Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No11 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

DUBROVNIK Spring 2013

A traditional wedding See how it used to be, from the bride to be and the ceremony.

Dubrovnik off Season Or is it in season?

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CONTENTS

Contents Arriving in Dubrovnik

Where the action is

Introducing Dubrovnik

What’s it all about?

Glossary

Don’t get caught with your trousers down

Culture & Events

Renaissance art to island reggae

Where to stay

Home sweet home

Restaurants

Enjoy the riches

Cafés

Where to watch the world go by

Nightlife

When you just gotta boogie

What to see

Those sights explained

Interactive

Take a look behind the old door to view Dubrovnik without the hustle and bustle, see the more intimate and relaxed side of the city whilst enjoying the company of locals and their age old traditions.

Mail & Phones

“I just called to say I luuuurve you…” 31

Climbing, hiking and horseback riding

Getting around

An explorer’s bible

Shopping

Take a little piece of my heart

Directory

Important numbers

Dubrovnik Neretva County

Out and about around the city

Maps Public transport map Street index City map City centre map County map

43 43 44 46 48

A typical painting from Julije Knifer, the meander. His work is part of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery Collection and a sample of Croatian art from the end of the 19th century until today. See page 9

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FOREWORD Let’s look at the facts! A great number of restaurants, cafes and hotels are closed off season and there are fewer events than in summer. But let’s not despair dear readers for that is one more reason to visit Dubrovnik at this time of year; outside of the peak summer season, away from the hustle and bustle, the paparazzi, the queues and so on. There are just enough events to see and best of all you have a chance to take in the city and its beautiful streets in peace and harmony. You will be able to hear the footsteps of passersby on Stradun, hear the murmur of Onofrio’s Fountain, and meet the locals without a rush. The event calendar is as traditional as ever and has that true local feel. Spring is joyous with the native fauna sprucing to life and locals jostling about throughout Lent. Traditional events surround the Holy Season with even the heartfelt Easter bunny making an appearance with his basket of goodies. Speaking of goodies, do not miss the annual Oyster festival with the freshest and juiciest mouth-watering locally farmed oysters of world status ready for devouring. Food for thought we tell you! These are all events which bring joy to every Dubrovnikian and they will gladly inform you of their traditions and customary specialties. All this together with an added bonus on traditional weddings, this edition will prepare you for plenty to see and do!

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More than 20 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Oristano, on the Italian island of Sardinia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson Marinović, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Sonja Guina, Gordan Karabogdan, Maja Knezić Photos In Your pocket team, Thanks to all the institutions who gave us permission to use their photographs in DIYP Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o

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ARRIVING IN DUBROVNIK Tourist information Tourist Information Centres Gruž I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.

Tourist Boards Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3,

Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@ visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

By boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15kn if you buy it on board. Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver immediately on boarding.

By bus The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn per hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70. By car For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

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Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for traffic information. By plane Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn. Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33 33, www. airport-dubrovnik.hr. By train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122,783 Dubrovnik (April 2011): 42, 641 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea. Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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INTRODUCING DUBROVNIK

dental medicina

It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride. Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter. That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom. But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them. The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today. This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can

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be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, in 2012 held for the 63rd time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland. Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses. It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

Did you know? ... the 2nd and 3rd season of the hugely popular American Medieval Fantasy TV series ‘Game of Thrones’, which is an adaptation of a series of epic novels entitled ‘A Song of Ice and Fire’ by George. R. R. Martin, was filmed in Dubrovnik. ... that Dubrovnik’s Ombla River which is 30 meters long is one of the shortest rivers in the world.

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GLOSSARY

National holidays

Easter in Croatia

January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5

The Croatian word for Easter, Uskrs, means “resurrection”, and here, as in most Catholic countries, it’s a holiday whose importance closely rivals Christmas. Holy Week starts one week before Easter Sunday with Cvjetna Nedjelja (Flower Sunday), when people take decorative twigs to church to be blessed, to protect their homes for the coming year. The following week consists of cleaning and decorating the home to symbolise the rebirth of spring, and preparing traditional cakes and breads. On Holy Thursday, church bells are tied up for three days in respect of the Last Supper. At this time, one may not plough, sow or chop wood. Both the earth and our bodies must be allowed to rest and regenerate. Good Friday is not treated as a public holiday here. On Easter Saturday, you are most likely to find people colouring and decorating eggs in traditional style. There are many other traditions for this day, one example being burning wood in front of the church and carrying home the ash. On Easter Sunday, those of a churchgoing persuasion will take traditional Easter food to be blessed, usually bread, ham, decorated eggs, spring onions, horseradish, salt and cake. Usually these are carried in a wicker basket covered with an embroidered cloth. Then it’s time to spend the rest of the day at home eating: this is considered a family celebration.

August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Health & Safety The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

10 50

-10 -20

M A M

N D

on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Toilets

Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.

Roads

f you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Exhibitions 04.12 2012.Tuesday - 31.10.2013. Thursday

Aklapela, klapa Bunari, Dubrovnik partner archives

22.01 Tuesday - 22.12 Sunday

Poison and medicine hidden in plants

Fish of the Dubrovnik region

C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Forget the classic myths and folk tales about plants as remedies, this exhibit will detail 44 types of plants which can either cure or poison people if not used properly. Find out what is used in the pharmaceutical industry, synthetic versus herbal medication, side-effects, chemical extractions and much more. It’s medical and totally educational.

C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. There’s nothing fishy with this exhibit, or is there? Indeed, see the local robust underwater air bubbling locals that live in the Dubrovnik area. The exhibition will become a part of the permanent display of the Natural Science Museum, and will fit into the complete concept of this museum in the future.

22.01 Tuesday - 28.02 Thursday

21.12.2012. Friday - 28.02.2013. Thursday

From the Dubrovnik Art Gallery collection - Croatian art from the end of the 19th century until today

The Dubrovnik Seamen D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr/en/. The trials and tribulations of the city’s seamen come to life in this dedication to the greats who had travelled the four corners of the world. Who were the heroes? The maritime military strategists, the ship captains, ship owners, skilful merchants, politicians, diplomats, and others who had bought prosperity to Dubrovnik through their feats.

27.12.2012. Thursday - 28.02.2013. Thursday

The Ancient Aqueduct Vodovađa - Cavtat D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr/en/. Bringing history to life, the exhibition will display the results of a several yearlong investigation of the aqueduct from the Antique period which supplied present-day Cavtat (former colony Epidaurus) with fresh water from the water source in Vodovađa. Thirty sites with remains of a huge communal project which was suggested by the agile legate Publius Cornelius Dolabella (between 14 and 27 AD during the reign of Augustus and Tiberius) were found through archaeological research.

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L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. If art is your forte, then make the effort to see a range of paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, installations, photos, videos and documentaries dedicated to the founders of Croatian modern art. The likes of Vlaho Bukovac, Mate Celestin, Ivan Meštrović, Emanuel Vidović and many others including contemporary artists will be presented. For art is long but life is short.

War Photography Božidar Gjukić D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom

1, dumus.hr. ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.

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CULTURE & EVENTS Homeland War Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-1995 (Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu) Imperial Fort,

Srđ, dumus.hr. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the ‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

May-June

Hommage a Kožarić

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. When a national museum purchases an artists entire studio, then that commands respect. As a Croatian sculptor, Ivan Kožarić’s works are characterised by a sense of tomfoolery and spontaneity. See his opus which also includes assemblages, proclamations, photographs, paintings and installations.

May - October

Stjepan Gradić - The Father of the Homeland D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr/en/. When one man’s efforts do so much that an entire city could perish or advance? When from Italy afar he works tirelessly in diplomatic circles to protect his Dubrovnik from invading Venetians and Turks. When the disastrous 1667 earthquake struck he sends experts, money, food, machines, architects and more to rebuild his Dubrovnik. This marks the 400th anniversary of one of Dubrovnik’s greatest sons.

Revelin Fortress E-1, dumus.hr/en/. Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum. The exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research and foundry workers present how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed.

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The Dubrovnik Seamen, Dumus archivec

01.05 Wednesday - 31.10 Thursday

Ex Yugoslavia 1991-1999 C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandic, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.

10.05 Friday - 10.06 Monday

The Danish Wheels B-3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, dumus.hr. Throw away the car keys and do as the Danes do, ride their bikes. Danish artist Mikael Colville-Andersen follows the life of Copenhagen citizens as they live and breathe their culture of bicycles. This exhibition sends a strong and inspiring message to visitors to use their bicycles more actively in their everyday lives. Helmets on and as they say in English, ‘on your bike’!

Special events 06.03 Wednesday - 20.03 Wednesday

The Dubrovnik Salon C-3, Dubrovnik public library, Od puča 6. The ease and ooze of classical chamber music beckons in March with a series of concerts which bring together a group of Dubrovnik’s finest musicians! The repertoire is adjusted for both the local and foreign audience. Performances by: The Dubrovnik String Quartet, The Dubrovnik Piano Trio, Alberto Frka - piano, Loris Grubišić-violin and Željko Barač-clarinet.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Classical Music 27.03 Wednesday

Lenten concert

B-2, St Savior’s Church. The Dubrovnik string quartet.

01.04 Monday

Easter concert

B-2, St Savior’s Church. The Sorkočević Quartet featuring Mirjana Bukmir-tenor.

05.04 Friday

Slobodan Begić on violin and Nena Ćorak on piano

B-2, St Savior’s Church. A concert celebrating the 25th anniversary of their art work.

08.04 Monday - 27.05 Monday

Sorkočević Quartet

B-2, St Saviour’s Church. Evening Serenades Cycle. Q Mondays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn.

10.04 Wednesday - 29.05 Wednesday

Dubrovnik String Quartet

B-2, St Saviour’s Church. Classic Evergreens Cycle. Q Wednesdays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn.

12.04 Friday - 31.05 Friday

Slobodan Begić - violin, Nena Ćorak - piano

B-2, St Savior’s Church. The Best of the Great Composers Cycle. Q Fridays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn. Ivan Kožarić, Boy sitting, Dubrovnik Art Gallery

16.03 Saturday - 26.03 Tuesday

05.04 Friday - 07.04 Sunday

Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun), tel. (+385-20) 63 86 40/(+385-20) 42 57 03, 41 71 07, www.kinematografi.org. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection.Telephone reservations possible 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 63 86 40/ (+385- 20) 42 57 03, 41 71 07. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Telephone reservations possible 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Aklapela

Galleries

Days of Christian Culture www.danikrscanskekulture.info. As Easter is approaching, this event brings to light Christianity and its impact on European and Croatian culture. The event encompasses various exhibits, concerts, discussion boards, theatre shows and projections with a major link to the great artworks inspired by our Christian cultural heritage.

www.aklapela.hr. Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is Klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!

Cinemas CineStar G-2, Masarykov put 3, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Online and telephone reservations possible. Telephone reservations 13:00 -21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Soon There are no humid habitats, there are no swamp birds either

C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1. Nature enthusiasts take note with this visiting exhibition which warns of the main reason for the decline in swamp bird numbers as well as our other regular swampy locals in bugs, frogs, tadpoles and more. All of which affect the entire ecosystem.

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Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42

65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.

Bolshoi Ballet Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4. Be a part of the cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

31.03 Sunday

Igor Stravinsky: The Rite of Spring Q Starts at 17:00. 12.05 Sunday

Sergei Prokofiev: Romeo and Juliet Q Starts at 17:00.

Spring 2013 22.2.2013. 20:37:12

CULTURE & EVENTS The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog

More fun

Tomislav Ciko, Mrtva priroda s ikonom

February-March

Tomislav Ciko - Paintings

D-3, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Držićeva poljana, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

February-October

Marinko Babić - Sea Blues C-4, Dubr ovnik Natural Histor y Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88

March

Nela Račić - Oils on canvas B-3, Artur Gallery, Od Domina 2.

March - December 2013.

Contemporary Art Production Exhibitions E-3, Pulitika Atelier, St John Fortress, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

April

Easter Decorations

B-3, Artur Gallery, Od Domina 2

May

Women Nudes - Collective Exhibition B-3, Artur Gallery, Od Domina 2.

June

Toni Franović - Drawings

B-3, Artur Gallery, Od Domina 2.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3,

Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes. War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images. Q From May 1 Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.

Culture centres L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@caas.unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. Q Open Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.

Contemporary Dance Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4. Contemporary dance lovers will thrive at the live broadcast of the Nederlands Dans Theater, one of the world’s leading contemporary dance companies. Their rich repertoire, based on the works by original choreographers Jirí Kylián and Hans van Manen, is danced around the world and attracts mega huge audiences.

30.05 Thursday

An evening with Ekman/Eyal&Behar/ Leon&Lightfoot/Inger Q Starts at 20:00.

Metropolitan Opera Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4. From New York’s famous Metropolitan Opera. If you cannot be there in person, then this is second to none! Choose from the following shows:

02.03 Saturday

Richard Wagner: ParsifalQ Starts at 18:00. 16.03 Saturday

Ricardo Zandonai: Francesca da Rimini Q Starts at 18:00. 27.04 Saturday

Georg Friedrih Handel: Giulio Cesare Q Starts at 18:00.

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 12

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com 22.2.2013. 20:37:39

WHERE TO STAY

Cream of the crop Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton. com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight. Q147 rooms (139 singles €89, 139 doubles €134, 139 triples €179, 4 suites €398, 1 Presidental Suite €1003, 3 Junior Suites €321). PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+38520) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from three hotels, Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars) or Royal Princess (5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q290 rooms (212 doubles €50 - 200, 78 apartments €70 - 400). PTHAUIFLGBKDCW Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 90, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty. The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old City! Open from March 28. Q13 rooms (12 singles €189 - 253, 12 doubles €216 - 288, 1 suite €293 - 420). PHA6LGKDCW hhhhh More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr, www. hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too, with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouser-press, a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a small kidneyshaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces - too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless. Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing terrace. Q40 rooms (37 doubles €120 - 195, 1 Junior Suite €190 - 280, 2 Deluxe Suites €250 - 400). PZHAUFLGBKD CwW hhhhh Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved. With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering). The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from a Turkish bath to dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 13

chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting out your Anthony-andCleopatra fantasies then you’ll never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively large congress halls are situated right next door to the 24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €300 - 750, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000). PZOTHAUFLGBKD CwW hhhhh The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace. com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic.The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €190 - 230, 16 doubles €220 - 310, 1 suite €625 - 780, 1 Junior Suite €450 - 560). PZTJAR6G BKW hhhhh

Upmarket Lapad H-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55,

fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www. hotel-lapad.hr. A grand old hotel that has recently received a thorough dose of refurbishment, with rooms kitted out with a fresh lick of paint and swanky new bathrooms. The main nineteenth-century building is the kind of place in which you can imagine Hercule Poirot tracking down high-society murderers, although the modern annexe tacked on to the back of the building is significantly less atmospheric. Located opposite Gruž harbour, it is conveniently close to Lapad beach. Open from March 22. Q163 rooms (10 singles €83 - 135, 147 doubles €110 - 202, 4 suites €206 - 306, 2 Junior Suites €172 - 272). PHAULGBKCW hhhh

Spring 2013 22.2.2013. 20:39:15

WHERE TO STAY

Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22

44, fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Open from April. Q8 rooms (4 singles 1005kn, 4 doubles 1440kn). PJA6UGBW hhhh

Valamar Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price for suite is available upon request. Open from March 29. Q180 rooms (180 doubles €69 - 229). PTHARFLGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel.

(+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. Meeting every expectation this hotel oozes spacious rooms and suites, an indoor/outdoor pool, wellness treatments, restaurants, cocktail bar and more. Buffet breakfast is huge! State of the art architecture meets the natural Mediterranean surroundings. Walking distance to beaches and a bus ride to the old city, perfect for peace of mind. Q385 rooms (385 doubles €69 - 229). PHAFLGKDCwW hhhh

Mid-range Aquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45

61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius. net, www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a make-over, this three star hotel includes four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine. It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Open from April.Q 24 rooms (8 singles €86, 8 doubles €116, 4 triples €174, 4 suites €140). PAL BKW hhh Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Open from March 22. Q308 rooms (308 doubles €69 - 159). PTHARLEGBKCW hhh

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 14

14 Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. 24 rooms (20 doubles €60 - 120, 4 apartments €100 - 160). PALGCW hhh Lero I-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www. hotel-lero.hr. This complex is perfectly located between the Old Town and Gruž Cove. It’s a five minute bus ride to the centre and the beach is a mere 150m walk. All 160 rooms include air-conditioning, SAT-TV, shower, and toilet facilities. Breakfast and dinner packages are available as Tavern Nava and the Aperitif Bar are all in-house. Q160 rooms (50 singles €56 - 80, 100 doubles €76 - 96, 10 apartments €130 - 180). PHA6UFLGBKDCW hhh Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-

20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka. hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings in Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s Taverna Nostromo

Hostels Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs. hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds, 14 - 19€ per person. ARBK Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel. There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange, and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highly-recommended) “walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information about prices contact the hostel. Open from March.Q 20 dorm beds, 20 - 30€ per person. AGW Vila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-

20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@ vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you’re travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can cater from two to twenty. It has both rooms and dorms that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con, TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet access and it’s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars, restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby. This is budget accommodation at its best! Q 20 dorm beds, 21 - 23€ per person. PA6LGW

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com 22.2.2013. 20:39:19

WHERE TO STAY

offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building. Q 104 rooms (8 singles €50, 96 doubles €70). PHARIFLG BKW hhh Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Open from April 14. Q208 rooms (208 doubles €69 - 159). PTHALG BKCW hhh Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. 338 rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more. 22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Open from March 29. Q 338 rooms (338 doubles €69 - 180). PTALGBKCW hhh

Islands Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples €50 - 80). PABK hhh dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 15

Out of town Ostrea Mali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45 55, fax (+385-

20) 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. This small hotel is well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula, including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant. Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 singles 410 - 490kn, 13 doubles 610 - 790kn, 1 Presidental Suite 930 - 1200kn). PA6LGBKW hhh Plat Hotels and Villas Plat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat. hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to the beach.New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included.Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Open from April. Q236 rooms (129 doubles €60 - 100, 107 apartments €60 - 130). PAFLGB KCW hhh Radissonblu Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, sales. dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q408 rooms (178 doubles €120 - 171, 207 suites €110 - 280, 2 Executive Suites €1500, 20 Junior Suites €176 - 248, 1 Presidential Suite €3000). PZTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh

Spring 2013 22.2.2013. 20:39:23

RESTAURANTS

Croatian

What better way to celebrate oysters? Oysters Festival in March is where you can dig deep. For the exact date, check the Tourist office.

Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel.

(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@ gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 150kn). PAUGB Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin. com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PALGBW Kopun C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+38520) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, info@restaurantkopun.com, www.restaurantkopun.com. Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (80 - 170kn). PJGBW

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 16

Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Open from April. (80 - 120kn). PTAEGB Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/ (+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 140kn) PJAGB Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25, info@petka.hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04 84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGBW

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RESTAURANTS International 360° by Jeffrey Vella E-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel.

(+385-20) 32 22 22, inf o@360dubr ovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. Jeffery Vella is already a name well known in the world of gastronomy and does not disappoint in Dubrovnik. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°. Q Open from March. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (190 - 350kn). PAGB Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel. (+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather pleasant Mexican sits just uphill from the Ploče gate, and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and pasta. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 100kn). PVNBS Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+38520) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 140kn). PJAGBW Gusta me E-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@gmail.com. This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (52 - 99kn). PAGBW Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work. He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s a nice selection of desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Open from March 15. (40 - 150kn). JAB Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94/ (+385-) 095 908 37 41, restoran.magellan@yahoo.com. The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB

Gastro Events 05.11 Monday - 01.04 Monday

Imperial Afternoon

K-3, Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blažića 2. A sweet tooth sensation coming your way! Visit the Lobby Bar of the Imperial Hotel and drool over the endless amount of cakes, strudels and other sweets available for a mere 55kn! The Hotel Chef works his magic and the price also includes coffee, tea as well as 3 hours of free parking with live piano performances from 15:00 to 18:00 on selected days. The winter blues suddenly seem so sweeter!

21.03 Thursday - 24.03 Sunday

Mediterranean fair of healthy food and medicinal herbs

F-2, Tirena Hotel, Iva Dulčića 22, www.mediteranskisajam.com. This is a great chance to learn about traditional organic products from all over Croatia, to try out some healthy foods and learn about natural remedies. In this part of the world, even doctors are likely to tell you to buy a packet of camomile tea rather than immediately prescribing antibiotics. Funnily enough, it works and it’s much better for you. (Obviously, always consult your doctor first if you have pre-existing health problems or suspect a more serious ailment).

Onofrio B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385)

32 39 76, 099 23 60 26, reservation@onofrio.hr, www. onofrio.hr. As you enter the premises it appears at first as if it is in fact a cigar and wine store. Well, yes, it is a cigar and wine store, featuring many Croatian wines and a variety of Cuban cigars, but on the very next floor we quickly find ourselves in a Champagne Bar. This floor has any number of whiskies and liqueurs, and is open until 02:00 during the summer months. There is an actual restaurant squirreled away in here, on the second floor, and there are plans to create a walk-in humidor for the more insouciant cigar lover. They have a small, but rotating, menu which ensures more detail goes into whatever dish you order. Old City charm blended nicely with a modern approach. QFrom March 20. Open 12:00-24:00 PAGB

Symbol key P E T G O R

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet

A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Animal friendly B Outside seating

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RESTAURANTS Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86

Ice cream and cakes Dolce

vita C-2,

Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. PNB GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+38520) 32 11 63, sales@ mea-culpa.hr, www.meaculpa.hr. The excellent city coffee house, for many years a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes. We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed February - May. PJAB

33, tavernaotto@net.hr, www.tavernaotto.com. This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Open from March. (70 - 200kn). AGB

Konoba Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed January-March. (61 - 80kn). PAGBX Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW Rozario D-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385) 099 315 65 50, konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www. konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 23:00. Closed January-March. (70 - 125kn). PAGBX

Light bites

Oyster & Sushi bar Bota D-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel.

(+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast. QOpen 11:00 24:00. Open from March. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@ hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace). Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). PJAGBX Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, kuca.edo@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 115kn). AGB

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Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (24 - 28kn). PJNG

Breakfast Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12

29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (34 - 56kn). AB Komarda K,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@ gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (12 50kn). AB Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. JAB

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RESTAURANTS

Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-

20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. May Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (10 - 33kn). Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. A refreshing discovery for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch: this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries and dips - yummy! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (15 - 35kn). JA

Mediterranean Amfora H-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, info@amforadubrovnik.com, www.amforadubrovnik. com. While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. (60 - 130kn). PAGBXW Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, marketing@ew-dubrovnik. com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Open from April. (60 - 125kn). PJALGB Klarisa B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, info@klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they’d always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. They have three distinct dining areas, so private groups might be better accommodated, which includes a courtyard should the terraced area out front be too crowded for the weary tourist. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo. QFrom March Open 09:00 - 01-00. JB

Komarda L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Open from March 15. (40 - 150kn). AB Nautika A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Open from March 15. (257 - 398kn). PJAGB Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik. com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed February. (90 - 135kn). JB Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com. hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q Open 09:00 -17:00. April, May Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, restaurantpoklisar@gmail.com, www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. March - May 31 Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed January-March. (60 - 170kn). PJAEGBW Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. April, May Open 12:00 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (90 - 150kn). PAGBW

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RESTAURANTS Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88,

www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn). PAGBXW Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/ (+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB

Slow food Dubrovnik At Terra Madre 2012, Slow Food Dubrovnik successfully presented the products by its members from the Dubrovnik-Neretva County at tastings: Pelješac wine (plavac mali Križ by the Pelješac wine maker Denis Bogoević), and Korčula’s olive oil (oil Torkul by the olive maker Fanita Žuvela). Whilst Dubrovnik’s marmalade made of bitter oranges was chosen for this year’s documentary on Terra Madre’s network of producers. Congratulations!

Out of town Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44

82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PALGB Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Open from March (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PALGBXW Konavoski dvori Ljuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Open from March. (80 - 110kn). ALGBX Leut Trumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/ (+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com, www. restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Open from March. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, fax (+385-20) 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites

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that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Open from March. (80 - 150kn). PJHALBKW Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PALGBX Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com. hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Open from April. (70 - 140kn). AGBX

Pizza Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-

20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (25 - 80kn). PNGBXSW Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00(40 - 90kn). PAGBXW

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RESTAURANTS

Tabasco E-1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, pizzeriatabasco@hotmail.com. The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (23 - 85kn). AGBW

Seafood Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)

32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. March, April Open 08:00 - 22:00. May Open 08:00 - 23:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (150 - 250kn). PAGB

YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22,

ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW

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Vegetarian Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@

nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. Q Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. March Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed January-March. ABS

Bakeries Galeta C/D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 89. Their sweet and savour y pastries are satisfyingly buttery and moreish. Try an apple (jabuka) or frankfurter (hrenovka) wrapped in puff pastry. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. Rusica I-2, Andrije Hebranga 54, tel. (+385-20) 41 13 42. Crusty loaves to go with those fishes, plus pizza and “burek” filo pastry pies too. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Zlatno zrno I-3, Iva Vojnovića 63b, tel. (+385-20) 33 11 20. A place where you can eat pizza, pancerotta, “burek”, but also delicious cakes all day and all night long! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Spring 2013 22.2.2013. 20:41:00

CAFÉS

Cafés In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee). Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61. Among the many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PBXW Belfast Celtic Bar G-2, Marka Marulića 21, tel. (+38520) 43 58 46. www.celticbars.com ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralji Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www. bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNBXW Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00. PAGBW

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Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes

stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAGBW Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 24:00. JBW GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 63, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed February - May. PJAGB Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. PBX Libertina (Lući) D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 03/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well known for its fine coffee. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PNGBXW

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NIGHTLIFE Bars

Clubs

Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail. com. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00, Closed Sun. B Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com. What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. Q Open according to weather conditions. B Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64 70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed to kill. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PB Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBXW None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed January 15 - March 20. PENB Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Has one computer which is free to use. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PENXW SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220 20 94, skybardubrovnik@gmail.com. Administering a much-needed dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town, this diner and lounge bar has settled into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent choice of upscale pub fodder in the shape of salads, burgers and steaks. Blending slate grey, soothing whites and mood-enhancing purples, the interior is smart and slinky without being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though, it’s probably time you were in bed. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW

Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort

Casinos Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@ major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 14:00- 04:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 23

Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250 25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin. com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70, clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares? QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PNB Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www. lazareti.com. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/ underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Opening hours dependent on programme of events. Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, klub_umo@yahoo.com. A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands, DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Lounge bars Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer

heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitel y wor th a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PABX

Pubs Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. It walks like an Irish

Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City, the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most other local stockists of the ‘black stuff’. We won’t let this spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of a, well, gaffe. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JB Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@ du.t-com.hr, www.katieoconnors.com. The website says that they serve food but it seems that someone is telling digital porkies. Our time here was not a pleasant one, with the staff being incredibly rude, to the point of being directly insulting; quick to pass comment on customers who don’t speak Croatian. This is very much a shame, because the pub itself is physically quite charming and welcoming. Currently undeserving of the moniker ‘Irish Pub’ the owners would do well to reflect on their staffing policies. Were such a venue to operate thusly back in Ireland it would be shut within a week QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PABX

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WHAT TO SEE

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WHAT TO SEE

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)

D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn. Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 60kn. Open from April. Stradun, Placa B/C-2. When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. No admission. The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča), www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost

two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows

Lokrum

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Spring 2013 22.2.2013. 20:41:16

WHAT TO SEE their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q June - July 31 Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:00. September 16 - October 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 30 - 70kn.

Museums

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32

14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.hr. The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn. The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr/en/culturalhistory-museum/. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. From March 22 Open 09:00 - 18:00.

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Goran Vranić, Marin Držić Theatre

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”

is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 25 - 70kn.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s

fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr/en/maritime-museum/. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From March 22 Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Mon.

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WHAT TO SEE

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)

B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,

the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

Churches Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)

B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Q Open on request and by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn. Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it

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is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.

Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the

Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles.

Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,

tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive collection should head for the museum on the second floor of the building next door. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Church Admission free. St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.

St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)

C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine. St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)

D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.

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WHAT TO SEE Dubrovnik Cable Car L-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. February, March Open 09:00 -17:00. April, May Open 09:00 - 20:00. Adults 50 - 87kn, Children 25 - 40kn, children under 4 free. Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3. This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings. Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana,

tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. Q Open 09:00 -12:00, 15:00 -17:00, Sun 11:00 -12:00, 15:00 - 17:00. From March 31 Open 09:00 -17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.

Landmarks Boninovo cliffs. It might be considered somewhat morbid

that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other. The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

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Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.

Skycellar Đurovića cave, Dubrovnik Airport Čilipi. So your plane lands and minutes later you find yourself in a cave! Yes, it is true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport, there is a cave that stretches 200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region as well as genuine souvenirs.

Dubrovnik Partner Archives

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WHAT TO SEE

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom. In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture. The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)

D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green color is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica

i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening. The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3. Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying

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WHAT TO SEE the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal. The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties. Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun), info@visiadubrovnik.com, www.visiadubrovnik.com. The ancient walls of St. Clara’s Convent are new home to a state of the art 5D multimedia museum. With the use of virtual reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style! QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Tickets 50 - 75kn. U

The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.

One Ticket, Four Museums Those wishing to visit the Rector’s Palace, the Ethnographic Museum, the Maritime Museum or the Revelin Fortress must now buy a ticket for 70kn (adults), or 40kn (children), which enables you to visit all four museums over a 7-day period.

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INTERACTIVE

Adventure & Travel ATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)

098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler (All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on procedures and then the true adventure begins! Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 550 - 650kn per person. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement. Big Game Fishing, tel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/ (+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik.com. Q Starts from March. Dubrovnik Tennis Club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@ gmail.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn. Hiking Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors who prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals. For more information, contact the Konavle Tourist Association. Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/The “Ronald Brown” Path.

Deša Workshops Patchwork L-2, Deša, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, desa-dubrovnik.hr. Q Tue, Thu 16:00 - 20:00.

Silk Paintinig L-2, Deša, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, desa-dubrovnik.hr. Q Fri

16:00 - 18:00. Weaving L-2, Deša, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, desa-dubrovnik.hr. Partake in one tradition that is ever so prevalent here. Learn how to make weaved products with customary patterns. Q Mon - Fri 10:00 - 12:00.

18.03 Monday - 29.03 Friday

Easter in Deša

L-2, Deša, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, desa-dubrovnik.hr. Learn how to decorate easter eggs with delicate motifs in beeswax, coloured with onion skin or pine (a process locally known as penganje) and how to create intricately woven ornaments made from palms leaves (pomice). QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Workshops are free.

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Gulliver Travel; Konavle Safari

Horse riding - Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda,

tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions are provided. Q Open by prior arrangement. Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.park-prevlaka.hr. Welcome to the most southern part of Croatia, cushioned between the sea and mountains. This immaculate area is bursting with Mediterranean plants, vines, vineyards and fruit trees and if you take a nature walk the scenery is down-right breathtaking. Bicycles can be rented at affordable prices and then there are the underground passages, tunnels built by the military and kept hidden for 50 years which are becoming popular amongst tourists. A visit to the tunnels is only available in guided tours. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Entry 15kn.

Vlaho Slijepi Workshops Vlaho Slijepi Habardeshary C-2, Od Polača 11. Workshops are available for both locals and tourists and they are all free; do note that numbers are limited. Participants are obliged to leave one of their art works for an exhibition that will advocate their work.

March Aquarelle school April Art workshop for making Easter decorations May Art workshop ‘All in jeans’ June Art workshop for making summer hats

ma’AM Workshops 15.03 Friday - 01.04 Monday

Easter in the City

B-2, ma’AM Atelier, Getaldićeva 3. An exhibition by the painter Maja Kovačević together with creative workshops for children; things turn arty and crafty with the making and painting of Easter holiday decorations.

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MAIL & PHONES Express mail City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/ (+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www. cityex.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Public telephone You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Internet places Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+38520) 36 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 40. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 12 65. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 42. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Postal rates Letters up to 50gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60kn, Abroad 3.10kn

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25, netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.com.hr. A sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Open from April PNB Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74, ravosium@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. 30kn / hour.

City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Rijeka

01 021 022 023 051

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-yougo cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800 9000, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta), tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.

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GETTING MAIL & AROUND PHONES Public transport

Taxi

The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 17kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70 otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour for waiting.

Train Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would probably prefer to avoid this 13hour odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you can take the sleeper. Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading their car on a night train at 22:00 (149.04kn - 213.04kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-OsijekBudapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.

Long distance coaches Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 21:30.

Car rental Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port

terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314 30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. QOpen 08:00 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+38520) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@ subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/ (+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www. hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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Uni rent Josipa Kosora 6, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/ (+385-) 099 219 55 15, dubrovnik@uni-rent.hr, www. uni-rent.com. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik.airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling at rock bottom prices so be sure to reserve your ticket well in advance - otherwise you’ll need a whole lot of luck to get your hands on these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations. Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is 2kuna per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a 300kn payment is required).

Ferry G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat sails. Q 20 - 30kn per person. Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 17:30 - 18:30. One way ticket is 19kn per person.

Harbourmaster’s office Harbourmaster’s office (Lučka kapetanija) I-2/3,

Obala Stjepana Radića 37, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 88, www.mmtpr.hr. 24 hours Info: 41 89 89 QOpen 08:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Towed away If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year it’s Open 24 hours and from October till June from 06:00 - 24:00. The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card. Sanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16, 42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www.sanitatdu. borovnik.hr

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GETTING AROUND Parking

Gas stations 0-24

Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multistorey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 170kn/ day depending which zone you’re in and the season. Text message parking. Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

Komolac Ogarići 8, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 33, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. Q Open

Bike rental Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www. cavtat.biz. Q From March Open 09:00 - 20:00. 25kn/ hour, 100kn/day. A

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00:00 - 24:00. Kupari Kupari bb, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 38, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Opuzen Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 43, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Travel Agencies Dubrovnik Travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.

(+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dt-croatia.com, www. dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours! QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@ elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver. hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed December - March 31.

Road help tel. 1987

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SHOPPING Antiques Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20)

32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro.hr. Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)

098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.hr, www. heritageshop.hr. A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed January - April 15. A

Art galleries AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17

21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www. antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/ (+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-)

091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 19:00. A

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original! Q Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kokula Art & Craft Shop B-2, Đorđićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 12, kokula@net.hr. Recently opened, this small crafts shop deals exclusively in Croatian-sourced goods. Lace, embroidered items, paintings, carvings, and even cookies and other edible goodies from Dubrovnik, are all available here. None of the inevitable tack which such tourist hotspots attract can be found here. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/ (+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www.medusa. hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. March - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace),

tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. From March 16 Open 09:00 - 16:00. A

Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/

(+385-) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Closed February. A

Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www. tildadubrovnik.com. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Sat 10:00 - 14:00 Closed Sun. April, May. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A

Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic.

art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Souvenirs Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. March - May 31 Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 35

Duty Free Shop Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

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SHOPPING Accessories

Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-

Art Go’Den G-2, Iva Dulčića 34 (Valamar Lacroma

Resort), tel. (+385-20) 43 50 22, www.artgoden.com. A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa and Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. A Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. April, May Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Magnolika B-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885 69 10, magnolika.art@gmail.com, www.magnolika.com. Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-shirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically here in Croatia. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

20) 32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss either way. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. A XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality. Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Jewellery

Delicatessen Dubrovačka

kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, lucija.or esic@du.t-com. hr. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse

C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+38520) 32 48 16, franjahouse@ franja.hr, www.franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. March - May 31 Open 08:00 - 20:30. A Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www. kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. April, May Open 09:00 - 20:00. A

Designer Clothing Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13

30, info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik. hr. If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just looking through the window. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. March - May 31 Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

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Clara Stones C-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20)

32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www.clarastones. com. Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless. The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle. Q From March 20 Open 09:00-19:00.A Dubrovnik Treasures B-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www. dubrovniktreasures.com. Unique homemade jewelr y with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver, philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Worth the visit! Q March - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

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DIRECTORY Making Friends www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com. A great local organisation that works on giving back to the community. Various social activities and gatherings are held and newcommers to the city are particulary made welcome with the aim of building networks, establishing friendships and more. So come along!

Call the experts Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65

15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art, hair cuts, body painting. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+38520) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com. Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com. Hair studio. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry. com. Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon request. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg). Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18. Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N

Hospital General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20)

431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.

Pets

Bobanović H-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-

20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.tcom.hr. Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy . Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Police station Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+38520) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+38520) 44 37 77, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36 66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Banks & Exchanges Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20) 72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Volksbank I-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Business Connections American College of Managemet and Technology

J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County

Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr. Q Open by arrangement. Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57. Q Open by prior arrangement. The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41/(+385-) 091 396 63 82, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00. UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97, honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.

Emergency number 112 In case of emergency you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the emergency services as below: Police 192 Fire department 193 Ambulance 194 Coast guard 9155

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY

Mljet A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence. Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be. Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Odysseus’s Cave Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

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Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake. Where to stay Mljet has just one hotel (Hotel Odisej, Pomena b.b., www. hotelodisej.hr ) but with two campgrounds and a plethora of private rooms and apar tments, there is enough accommodation to triple the island’s population during the summer. For information about private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry port and in Polače. What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, npmljet@np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet. hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities. Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation. Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too. Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road

Tourist information

Mljet Tourist Board Sobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@ du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted

menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance. With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Tourist information

Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka, te l. (+3 8 5 - 2 0) 71 1 4 2 0, g m korcula@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 10:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20kn. K o r č u l a To u r i s t B o a r d O b a l a F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Lastovo Carneval

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life. Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

The Elafiti Islands Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants. Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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Konavle, Ljuta

Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal. The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.

Tourist information Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 20:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com 22.2.2013. 20:45:22

DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabi tants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up.

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar,

Tourist information Tourist Inf ormation Centr e of Metković Tourist Board Stjepana

Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 10 20/(+385-) 098 171 16 05, www. metkovic.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Trsteno

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).

Tourist information Or ebić Tourist Boar d Zrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia. hr, www.tz-orebic.com.QOpen 08:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www. ston.hr. QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik 11 radno.indd 42

Solana Ston It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Traditional wedding An old-fashioned Croatian wedding can be a picturesque affair. Wedding customs often differ according to the region. Some of the old customs at weddings in the Dubrovnik region sound pretty risky to us, so perhaps it’s just as well that times have changed in some ways. But especially in the hinterland, you might find old habits linger to this day… Probably because o f the fact that this part of the world was invaded so many times, weddings had a semi-military aspect which meant the conspicuous involvement of firearms - bringing a whole new meaning to the term “shotgun wedding.” The groom had a group of “best men” (called svatovi) who would form a guard of honour in front of the church in readiness for the bride’s arrival. When she did, they would start shooting like crazy, so it’s safe to say you needed earplugs, a flak jacket and nerves of steel as essential kit when attending a local wedding. In the Dubrovnik region the bride also had a band of svatovi, women with a role similar to maids of honour. Disappointingly, their role did not include brandishing live firearms but it did involve giving a running commentary on every aspect of the wedding in song, which was perhaps even more frightening. In the old days it was customary for a bride to leave her home and move in with her husband and his family. Some of the more picturesque traditions involve preparing the bride for this moment and invoking good fortune for her new life. The bride’s clothes would be packed into a trunk, and her husband-to-be would climb onto the trunk the Thursday before the wedding with a glass of wine in hand, ceremonially spill a drop onto each of the four corners of the trunk, then dash the glass on the ground. What this meant we’re not sure. It’s easier to interpret the spoonful of honey given to the bride by her new mother-in-law, to give a sweet taste to her new life. The wedding itself would be accompanied by all sorts of silly games like hiding the bride and putting an impostor in her place. And on leaving the church the real fun would begin. The wedding procession would leave the church and head for the bride’s new home. The villagers along the way would greet the party enthusiastically and offer food and drink. The wedding party in its turn offered the villagers apples and sweets. Fun and merriment was to be had by all - a wedding was the high point of the year and was looked forward to by all. To this day you’ll still find people observing a few of the old customs, and much of the music played goes back for generations. Traditional wedding clothes are particularly colourful, featuring elaborate embroidery and plenty of red and gold colours. If you’re thinking of special location for your wedding, Dubrovnik is certainly one of the most romantic places to tie the knot, with the old city around you and the spectacular coastal setting. If you’re contacting a local company to help you make the arrangements, why not ask if you could incorporate any traditional local elements? That would make it an event to remember and one entirely in keeping with its surroundings.

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East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches. Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

Tourist information Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board

Šetalište dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tzzupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q Open 8:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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STREET REGISTER A. Barca H-2,3 A. Bošković J-2,3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H-2/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2,3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

45 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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STREET REGISTER Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte Mo Batahovina st Du br ov nik Kantafig

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Nuncijata

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H,I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B,C-3 C-3 H,I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

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ets

Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

Mlj

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J-2 G-2 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J,K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2,3 B-3,4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

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