Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No13

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Spring 2014

Pre-season Dubrovnik See the low key side of the city

Pelješac region Discover the renowned wines N°13 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

New Look In Your Pocket gets a makeover

Contents

Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6

Editor’s choice on what not to miss this spring

Arrival & Getting Around

8

Save on shoe leather

Dubrovnik Basics

10

Things you just need to know

Introducing Dubrovnik

DailyCard

3-dayCard

WeeklyCard

ONLY 150,00 kn

ONLY 200,00 kn

ONLY 250,00 kn

12

Get to know our fair city

Culture & Events

13

Everything that’s on in Dubrovnik

Restaurants

19

From pork knuckle to tofu burgers

Local Flavour

28

Something to tickle your tastebuds

Coffee & Cakes

Sightseeing

37

Eyes front 32

Treat yourself

Nightlife

With spring in the air harvested fruits and vegetables become part of the daily meal providing lots of nutritional vitamins and flavours

Dubrovnik Surroundings

44

Out and about around the city 33

When you just gotta boogie

Leisure

52

The natural way

Shopping

53

Perfect gifts and souvenirs includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 10 public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 y.o.

No charge for children up to 12 y.o.

No charge for children up to 12 y.o.

Hotels

58

Directory

60

List of small features

27

Fort Imperial Easter Dubrovnik FestiWine Big game fishing Elafiti islands

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www.dubrovnikcard.com

Maps & Index

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

Street register City map City centre map Country map County map

The vineyards of Konavle and Pelješac provide the whole region with beautiful and exquisite red and white wines

facebook.com/dubrovnik

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Foreword Dubrovnik needs no introduction. Over the past number of years it has been home to HBO’s Game of Thrones, as well as Tom Fontana’s series ‘Borgia’. These, however, barely scratch the surface, and the sheer brilliance, of the region once known to all as the Republic of Ragusa. Today Dubrovnik is one of the world’s top ten wedding destinations, with an abundance of breathtaking vistas, public gardens, coastline walks, etc. Of course, with such popularity you can find yourself paying high prices for your glass of wine, and at the same time jostling for a seat at an already-overcrowded café on Stradun. So consider visiting in spring, when the cruise ships have yet to arrive...Off-season doesn’t mean that there’s nothing to do; on the contrary. During the Easter period you will be able to witness a wide variety of customs and traditions and enjoy a much more relaxed vacation; and a more informed one at that. There’s more to Dubrovnik than the city, and the Pelješac peninsula - on which it’s situated - is a veritable cornucopia of experiences. Here you can sample the wines of the region (and it won’t be long before they’re one of Croatia’s best known exports), and savour some of the oysters from Mali Ston. The following pages will contain as many activities, dishes, beverages, and the like, as we could possibly list. We hope that you will find the time to create for yourself a most memorable holiday.

News

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin tisak, Sv. Nedjelja, published 2 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Maja Knezić Photography In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover © Boris Kačan

IN YOUR POCKET TV

Sales & Circulation Menager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE

THE NEW IN YOUR POCKET

In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones.

In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart filters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.

Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our readers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email address editor@inyourpocket.com, and follow us on both Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest developments at In Your Pocket.

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ABOUT IYP It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe.

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Arrival & Getting Around

ARRIVING BY BOAT

ARRIVING BY CAR

There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located.

Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.

When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet.

Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line. hr, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet Island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

QI-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 19:00 - 20:00.

ARRIVING BY BUS The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3 kn.

Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5 kn for the first hour, and 1.50 kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform.

Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15 kn from the driver or 12 kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 21:30.

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Arrival & Getting Around

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ARRIVING BY PLANE The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.

Parking costs 40 kn for the first 24 hours, and 2 kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20 Kuna one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) QČilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. (+020) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 20kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

TAXI

TRAVEL AGENCIES

The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 27kn base rate, 9kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 150kn per hour for waiting.

ELITE Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon.QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. A

CAR RENTAL

GULLIVER TRAVEL Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers...QI2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19/ (+385-) 091 314 30 10, dubrovnik.apt@avis.hr, www. avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www. carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A HERTZ Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 425 11 11.QL-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz. hr, www.hertz.hr. From April 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

KORKYRA QE-1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, info@korkyradubrovnik.com, www.korkyra-dubrovnik.com. From April 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00-20:00.

VIVADO An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands.

QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www. vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL-2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-acar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space.

Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 30 kn/hour or 85 - 360 kn/day depending on which zone you’re in, and the season. Prices for the period from May were not finalised at the time of going to print.

TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

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Photo by Boris Kačan

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES GRUŽ QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun. 08:00 - 14:00. May Open 08:00 - 20:00.

LAPAD QH-2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+38520) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

PILE QC-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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City Basics

City Basics CUSTOMS

where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

TOILETS

January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 20 Easter April 21 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 19 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti Fascit Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 22:00, From May 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

VISAS Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number

112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate.

The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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Introducing Dubrovnik It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride. Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter.

That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom. But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them. The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for har-

Culture & Events mony in one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today.

This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site.

It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, in 2013 held for the 64th time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland. Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses.

It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and wellpreserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

Damir Stojnić (Fragment), Dubrovnik Art Gallery

23.12 MONDAY - 01.11 SATURDAY WHO ARE THE LESSEPSIAN MIGRANTS? The construction of the Suez Canal way back in 1869 opened the gates for species to move back and forward between the Mediterranean and Red Sea. See some of the Lessepsian migrant fish, domestic sea creatures and the construction of the channel.QDubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

10.04 THURSDAY - 03.05 SATURDAY KATARINA IVANŠIN KARDUM Local and soulful, Kardum is an artist whose works are of unlimited possibility yet full of variety. She presents a major part of her opus thematically based over time, from a series entitled Cityscapes relating to Dubrovnik and other world cities, to another named Still Landscapes. Her materials range from graphite dust and industrial resin to water-colour and charcoal.QL-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

01.01 WEDNESDAY - 31.12 WEDNESDAY FISH OF THE DUBROVNIK REGION There’s nothing fishy with this exhibit, or is there? Indeed, see the local robust underwater air bubbling locals that live in the Dubrovnik area. The exhibition has become a part of the permanent display of the Natural Science Museum, and will fit into the complete concept of this museum in the future.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

24.04 THURSDAY - 14.05 WEDNESDAY THE FOUR EVANGELISTS IN MATTI PRETI’S WORK See the final product of this amazing restoration first showcased in 2005. Preti’s oeuvre of the four evangelists consisted of four ensembles, one of which is in Consenza and the other in Malta. Now with these two Dubrovnik ensembles restored, his entire iconography is whole.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dumus.hr.

EXHIBITIONS

27.02 THURSDAY - 01.03.2015 SUNDAY THE SOUND OF THE SEA The Museum’s mollusc collection was almost complete by 1880 and has stood the test of time. See it in its entirety with a special on its history as well as the characteristics of molluscs from this part of the world.QDubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

05.04 SATURDAY - 03.05 SATURDAY DAMIR STOJNIĆ - TRANSFORMATION This young academic painter from Rijeka presents several creative cycles which include works with water-colours, light-boxes and photographs which transform through the use of hybrid and phantasmagoric creatures, and the creation of ignisograms ‘drawing fire’ to name a few. Modern, macabre and inspiring art work!QL-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Damir Stojnić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery

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FORT IMPERIAL DUBROVNIK IN THE HOMELAND WAR 1991-1995 Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn.

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Culture & Events 01.05 THURSDAY - 28.07 MONDAY NARCISO CONTRERAS: SYRIA’S WAR- A JOURNAL OF PAIN A photojournalistic view of the solemn and stark realities of the world around us, highlighting the grim fact that it is often most likely innocence and youth which suffer most during armed conflict.QC-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com.

MAY C CO S FROM O THE DUBROVNIK ANCIENT COINS MUSEUM COLLECTION COLLE An extensive co collection of several hundred items of ancient a metal coins and medals which whic were both donated and collected collect across Dubrovnik’s archaeologi archaeological sites will go public.

Exhibited co coins from ancient Greek, Illyrian, Roman Roma and Byzantine times, as well as Turk Turkish, are a true testimony to Dubrovnik’s turbulent tur past and its rulers and invaders.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dumus.hr.

MAY - JUNE BORIS BUĆAN One of Croatia’s finest ever painters presents an incredible extensive selection of production paintings. He uses interrelations, merging physically distant parts close up, whole, broken or entwined. Bućan’s works can be found in top world museums and he was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Croatian Designers Society Award in 2006.

QL-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www. ugdubrovnik.hr.

Culture & Events MAY THE RECTOR’S PALACE ON OLD POSTCARDS FROM 1898 TO 1941’ A marvellous exhibition of old and rare postcards of one of Dubrovnik’s most significant monuments and landmarks, the famous Rector’s Palace, which used to serve as the seat of the Rector of the Republic of Ragusa between the 14th century and 1808. With its unique and harmonious mixture of Gothic and Renaissance elements and certain Baroque additions, the palace itself is a true architectural masterpiece and tourist attraction.QD-3, Rector’s palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dumus.hr.

SPECIAL EVENTS 25.04 FRIDAY - 27.04 SUNDAY AKLAPELA Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klapa performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!Qwww.aklapela.hr.

21.06 SATURDAY - 22.06 SUNDAY ANA U GRADU FESTIVAL Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and with two concerts scheduled, this is a chance to enjoy both chamber and contemporary classical music by Ana and her guests.Qwww.anarucner.com.

17.03 MONDAY - 31.03.2015 TUESDAY IN HONOUR OF THE CITY Paying homage to two stalwarts of the city! Antun Drobac who is credited with the founding of the Domorodni Museum (Museo Patrio) and Baldo Kosić who established the first natural history collections of fish, birds, amphibians, reptiles and mammals from the area.QDubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

MAY - JULY ON TREES YOU ANGRY DRAGON, IN THE BRANCHES YOU PEREGRINE FALCON Feeling supernatural! See this exhibition depicting the sequence of ancient beliefs, myths, rituals, traditional customs, songs and practices of the Dubrovnik area and islands, with a special emphasis on the mythical topography and toponymy (the study of place names) of the Dubrovnik hinterland. Items relating to myths or used in ritual from the city’s Ethnographic Museum will be displayed.QB-3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr.

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Ana u Gradu (Photo by Željko Tutnjević)

METROPOLITAN OPERA Opera devotees ought to be jumping in queues to see some smashing shows broadcast live in spectacular 5D vision from New York’s famous Metropolitan Opera. If you cannot be there in person, then this is second to none!

Choose from the following shows: 05.04 SATURDAY G. PUCCINI: LA BOHEME Conductor Stefano Ranzani orchestrates this melodramatic four act opera depicting vivid scenes of young bodubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

La Boheme, Kinematografi Archives

hemians living in Paris. It consists of the classic aria ‘Si, mi chiamano Mimi’ and it is a tale of love, cruelty, dreams, and disappointments which can be seen on widescreen, live at Sloboda Cinema.QSloboda Cinema, Pred dvorom 1, www.kinematografi.org. Starts at 18:55 26.04 SATURDAY W.A.MOZART: COSÌ FAN TUTTE A live transmission of Mozart’s miraculous and beloved opera with the theme of ‘fiancé swapping’, or better still, testing the bond of love, direct from the Metropolitan Opera. The famous James Levine conducts in his long-awaited performance, with the cast of young Met stars such as Susanna Phillips and Isabel Leonard who sing the role of nurses Fiordiligi and Dorabella, together with Matthew Polenzani and Rodion Pogossov playing their lovers.QSloboda Cinema, Pred dvorom 1, www.kinematografi.org.

Starts at 18:55 10.05 SATURDAY G.ROSSINI: LA CENERATOLLA (CINDERELLA) Directed by Cesare Liev and conducted by the Met’s principal conductor Fabio Luisi, one of Rossini’s finest operas will see a performance of Joyce Di Donato in the title role, with the master of bel canto Juan Diego Flórez as her dashing Prince Charming.QSloboda Cinema, Pred dvorom 1, www.kinematografi.org. Starts at 18:55 facebook.com/dubrovnik

CINEMAS CINESTAR QG-2, Masarykov put 3, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385- ) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Box office open an hour before the first projection. Online and telephone reservations possible. Telephone reservations 13:00 -21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 21:30.

SLOBODA QD-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 63 86 40/(+38520) 42 57 03, 41 71 07. Box office open an hour before the first projection. Telephone reservations possible 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BOŽIDAR GJUKIĆ WAR PHOTOGRAPHY 1991 - 1992 ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

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Culture & Events CULTURE CENTRES ART WORKSHOP LAZARETI QD-4, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@ du.t-com.hr, www.arl.hr.

GALLERIES DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.QL-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ugdubrovnik. hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. For ticket prices check out the box on page 39.

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candlelit classical concert in the atmospheric surroundings of St Saviour’s Church right on the Stradun?

DUBROVNIK STRING QUARTET Classic Evergreens Cycle.QB-2, St Saviour’s Church.

Wednesdays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn available an hour before the concert at the church entrance.

SLOBODAN BEGIĆ - VIOLIN, NENA ĆORAK - PIANO The Best of the Great Composers Cycle.QB-2, St Savior’s Church. Fridays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn available an hour before the concert at the church entrance.

SORKOČEVIĆ QUARTET Evening Serenades Cycle.QB-2, St Saviour’s Church.

Mondays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn.

Sorkočević Quartet (Photo by Željko Tutnjević)

Culture & Events OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. For ticket prices check out the box on page 39.

THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.

Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 16:00. From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD-3, Svetog Dominika 1. Admission 25kn.

WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images.QC-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. From May Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. June Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 - 40kn.

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TRADITIONAL CRAFTS While visiting Dubrovnik you will have the opportunity to learn a number of traditional crafts such as weaving and embroidery, and create unique items with customised patterns. These classes are organised by NGO Deša, and are free of charge and open to local and tourist alike. Weaving classes are held daily, on weekdays, from 10-12, while embroidery classes run from 14-18 hours. There’s also a twice-weekly workshop on patchworking, Tuesday and Thursday from 16-20. Groups are advised to check ahead for availability.

DEŠA ORGANIZATION QL-2, Frana Supila 8 (Lazareti), www.desadubrovnik.hr Pengana jaja (Photo by Margarita Biskup)

EASTER The Croatian word for Easter, Uskrs, means “resurrection”, and here, as in most Catholic countries, it’s a holiday whose importance closely rivals Christmas. Holy Week starts one week before Easter Sunday with Cvjetna Nedjelja (directly translated as Flower Sunday, but better known as Palm Sunday), the last Sunday of Lent, when people take olive and palm twigs to church to be blessed, to protect their homes and fields and farms for the coming year. Traditionally, and specific to the Dubrovnik area are very nice woven palm leaves, named pome which takes some skill to be made, a skill which can be learned in workshops in the run up to Easter, and organised by the Deša society.

The week after Palm Sunday consists of cleaning and decorating the home, and preparing traditional cakes and breads to symbolise the rebirth of spring. On Holy Thursday, church bells are silenced for three days in respect of the Last Supper. At this time, one may not plough, sow, or chop wood. Both the earth and our bodies must be allowed to rest and regenerate. Good Friday is not treated as a public holiday in Croatia but commemorating the crucifixion of Jesus Christ and his death at Calvary is very important and involves processions on the streets of the Old town.

On Easter Saturday, you are most likely to find people colouring and decorating eggs in traditional style.

Again, specific to Dubrovnik, is the technique by which facebook.com/dubrovnik

the eggs are decorated and coloured, named penganje, done with hot wax on raw eggs then putting in colour. This is also something that can be taught in Deša’s workshops. There are many other traditions for this day, one example being the burning of wood in front of the church and carrying home of the ash. On Easter Sunday, those of a churchgoing persuasion will take traditional Easter food to be blessed, usually bread, ham, decorated eggs, spring onions, horseradish, salt, or cake. Usually these are carried in a wicker basket covered with an embroidered cloth. Then it’s time to spend the rest of the day at home, eating: this is considered a family celebration.

The tourist boards of Dubrovnik and surrounding towns often organise special events and fairs and it’s sure that you will be able to enjoy and see some tradition in both customs and food.

And for philatelists amongst you, you’ll be pleased to know that the poma features on a Croatian stamp, designed by Alenka Lalić, with a nominal value of 3.10 Kuna.

This is a limited print run of 100,000, released especially for Easter 2013, so be sure to pick one up for your collection. Lalić also found her artwork on an Easter stamp in 2012; this time featuring Dubrovnik easter eggs - pengana jaja.

05.04 SATURDAY - 14.04 MONDAY DAYS OF CHRISTIAN CULTURE As Easter is approaching, this event brings to light Christianity and its impact on European and Croatian culture.

The event encompasses various exhibits, concerts, discussion boards, theatre shows and projections with a major link to the great artworks inspired by our Christian cultural heritage.Qwww.danikrscanskekulture.info.

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Culture & Events

Restaurants REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

One of Croatia’s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season starting May 02. High-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, starting at 21:30.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.

QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. For ticket prices check out the box on page 39.

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

CROATIAN BABILON When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat Mediterranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly! With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and dinner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82, villababilon@net.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 140kn).

PALGBW BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 130kn). PAGW DUBRAVKA Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.QA-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www. dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 160kn).

PAUGBW KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurantkomin.com, www.restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 110kn). PALGBW KOPUN Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every

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notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.

QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, info@ restaurantkopun.com, www.restaurantkopun.com.

Open 11:00 - 22:00. (80 - 220kn). PJGBW MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. May Open 07:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PTAEGBW TAVERNA NOSTROMO The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+38520) 41 05 25, info@petka.hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW ZOE Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.

QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 150kn). PALGBW

INTERNATIONAL DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.steakhousedomino.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 140kn). PJAGBW

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Restaurants

Restaurants TAJ MAHAL The Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - šhiš kebab.

Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, kuca.edo@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). TA6GBSW TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www. tavernaotto.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. ( 80 - 120kn). AGBXW

KONOBA DALMATINO Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City, this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Fisherman’s Stew, Truffle Pasta or Grilled Calamari with Dalmatian Sauce, from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange GUSTA ME This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate 2-3 minutes away from Stradun, the main pedestrian street.

It has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame. dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. May Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBW MAGELLAN The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (52 140kn). PAUILEGBXSW OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was 20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC-3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70, info@dalmatino-dubrovnik.com, www.dalmatinodubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn).

PTAGBXW JEZUITE Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@ gmail.com, dubrovnikrestaurant.webs.com. From April 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). JABW LINĐO Family restaurant with traditional home goodies on the menu, hence fresh salads, seafood and a fair range of meats, especially the age old ritual of roast under the iron pot. Simple and subtle, head towards the President Hotel Resort and it is part of the accompanying retail complex.QF-2, Iva Dulčića bb (Mali Stradun), tel. (+385-20) 41 34 54, lindjokonoba@gmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn). PAGBXW

exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets.

Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:00. May Open 09:00 - 23:00. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW PORAT Decked out in minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace). Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the head chef’s signature dishes.QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (100 250kn). PJALGBXW SHIZUKU JAPANESE CUISINE Located in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. A popular dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to call ahead for a reservation.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 1F, tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, shizuku.dubrovnik@hotmail. com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn). B dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants LOKANDA PESKARIJA Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.QD-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 90kn). PAGBXW

which includes a courtyard should the terraced area out front be too crowded for the weary tourist. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@klarisa.hr, www. klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 220kn).

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PUPO Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast.QC-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. May Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW

KOMARDA A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www. komarda.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). ABW

ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 099 315 65 50, konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www.konobarozario.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAGBX

MEDITERRANEAN DEFNE Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any anniversary dinner, or valentine’s rendezvous. The menu, while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and features cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, the latter three, of course, having had some historical influence within the region in centuries past.QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, fandb@ thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. From April 20 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 280kn). JABW EASTWEST BEACH CLUB RESTAURANT In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite.QL-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.com, www. ew-dubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

PJAGBW KLARISA Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they’d always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is offmenu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. They have three distinct dining areas, so private groups might be better accommodated, 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.

Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGBW PANORAMA Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big

LIGHT BITES BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 21:00. (12 - 28kn). PJNG RUSTICO By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches.QI-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-20) 780 78 78. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (10 - 33kn).

TUTTO BENE A refreshing discovery for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch: this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries and dips - yummy!QC-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 23:00. (15 - 45kn). JAW

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Restaurants

Restaurants KONAVOSKI KOMIN Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX

windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses!QK,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@ du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 250kn).

PAGBXW SESAME An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.QJ-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (90 - 150kn).

PAGBW

BREAKFAST BISTRO DUBRAVA Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings.

QC-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 24:00. (40 - 55kn). PAGBXW

WANDA You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun.QB-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/ (+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.wandarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 22:00. May Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB

OUT OF TOWN BOTA ŠARE Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.

Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).

PALGBW

KOMARDA Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices.

QK,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/ (+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (12 - 50kn).

ABW

GALIJA A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.

QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav. burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open 11:00 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW

ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun.

Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D-2, Placa bb, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www. esculap-teo.hr. Open 07:30 - 01:00. JABW

KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW

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KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. From April 20 Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). ALGB LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut. com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW

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OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.

QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, obala@du.t-com.hr. From April 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). PAGBXW TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine. Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 091 478 10 99, www.konoba-toranj.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 130kn). PAGBXW VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

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Restaurants

Restaurants SEAFOOD KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS LEVANAT This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 55 32. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PAGBXW

Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives (Photo by Andrija Carli)

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@ du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 150kn). PJHALBKW VILLA NERETVA A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog.

If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci.QSplitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotel-villa-neretva. com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. Open 09:00 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PTAILEGBXS

PIZZA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!QB/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (25 - 80kn). PAGBXSW MEA CULPA Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iff y in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar.QB-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. May Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn).

PJAGBSW OLIVA In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available.QD-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.pizza-oliva.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 90kn). PAGBXW TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE-1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, pizzeriatabasco@hotmail.com.

Open 09:30 - 23:00. May Open 09:30 - 24:00 (23 - 85kn).

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VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@nishtarestaurant. com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 22:00. Closed Sun. (59 - 85kn) ABSW

PROTO Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC-2, Široka 1, tel. (+38520) 32 32 34, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PAG BXW YC ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood.

Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW

WINE BARS D’VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, info@dvino.net, www.dvino. net. Open 09:00 - 02:00. AB

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Local Flavour

Local Flavour PELJEŠAC WINES

Pelješac wines are among the best wines produced in Croatia

Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high. The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo.

It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness. Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year. There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few.

The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga Pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali (Plavac Mali Association) being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Dubrovnik, and if you’re time is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine. If, on the other hand, your holiday isn’t all that mobile - and being mobile is necessary to visit all the islands, then please consider an option, as visiting Peninsula bar will allow you to sample over 60 different labels - as well as spirits from the peninsula’s vineyards.

Plavac Mali Association Archives

variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday. And, if you’re intrigued by what’s on your plate then you can always combine your wine trails with a week long cooking course where you’ll dally with Dalmatian spices and frolic with Mediterranean fish.

PELJEŠKI VINSKI PUTI ASSOCIATION (PELJEŠAC WINE ROUTES) Qtel. (+385-20) 74 23 93, Kuna 8, Kuna, vinskiputidnz@ gmail.com

Plavac Mali Association Archives

PLAVAC MALI ASSOCIATION Qtel. (+385-20) 74 20 12, Janjina 68, Janjina, plavacmalidnz@gmail.com.

WINE SHOP&BAR PENINSULA Qtel. (+385-) 098 28 58 24, Donja Banda bb, Oskorušno, peninsula@peninsula.hr, www.peninsula.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00

DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible. Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a facebook.com/dubrovnik

24.04 THURSDAY - 26.04 SATURDAY Martin Luther once said, ‘Beer is made by men, wine

by God’. The message here is clear and the message in Dubrovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local experience, tourists must try at least some local wine. 14th century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here and this event brings wine from the cellar to the table. It’s an all-round experience with over 100 regional winemakers presenting their vino to experts; workshops are about ‘wine in tourism’ with topics from cork and packaging to making it on the market.

Art exhibits, excursions to vineyards, local restaurants offering local wines with matching dishes. What can you say, a divine wine experience waits!QKlarisa Complex, www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com.

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Local Flavour LOCAL DISHES Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side.

A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home. Kamenice or oysters from the Mali Ston Bay (captured on camera and published in the Dubrovački komin cookbook by Jadranka Ničetić) are unique to the whole of Europe. Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise.

However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special.

You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch. A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There

Photo by cookam.blogspot.com

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Big Game Fishing are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon.

It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.A winTourist Board of Konavle Archives ter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra.

A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat. To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy. Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers.

Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce?

Frog risotto, perhaps?

It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy. The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup.

Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish. And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

The great thing about a country of such small size and perfectly along the sea is that wherever you go, the sea is relatively quick and easy to reach whether it’s by your own car, rent a car or plane!

Another bonus is the delights the sea offers, from culinary to recreation and adventure. For those who seek a true escapade, the sport of fishing and for that matter big game fishing is a buzz. In recent years the sport has been a drawing card for gentlemen in suits and working uniforms, the very moment they turn into fishermen and are driven by the sea is when the adrenaline pumps exponentially through your veins, meaning you leave behind your everyday life and immerse yourself into the serene world of the Adriatic Sea. It is an exciting sport using fast boats on the open sea to catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin. Licences are for sale in travel agencies. The largest and most prized catch on the Croatian Adriatic is bluefin tuna, which is in season from August to January. Other “big game” which can be caught in this way include swordfish (sabljarka), greater amberjack (gof ), Atlantic bonito (palamida), dolphin fish (lampuga), and blue shark (modrulj). The beauty of this sport is its unpredictable nature and the co-ordination of the whole crew on board the boat.

It can be organised via phone and can last up to half a day or the entire day, it can be midweek or over weekend depending on your preference, weather conditions and the availability of the ship.

The usual period is from May to November. Perhaps the best thing is that everyone can participate, whether they are beginners or experienced fishermen, since an experienced captain who leads the tour adapts to the experience of the participants and makes sure that everyone savours their adventure. One does not need to bring anything on board - all equipment is included, along with a snack and drinking water.

BIG GAME FISHING Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik.com.

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Coffee & Cakes CAFÉS

Nightlife casional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 02:00. PGBXW

BARS

BELFAST CELTIC BAR ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG-2, Marka Marulića 21, tel. (+385-20) 43 58 46, www.celticbars.com. Open 06:30 - 24:00.

FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a wellpriced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.sanje@du.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

PAGBW

BIKER’S CAFE Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PNBXW

GALERIE One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC-2, Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAGBW

FASHION CAFÉ In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the oc-

GLAM CAFÉ If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies.

In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails.QC2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 24:00. JGBXW

MIRAGE On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.QC-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

LAURA Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season.QL-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60.

Open 06:30 - 24:00. PNBXW

NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. May Open 09:00 - 02:00. PENB

LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00. GBX

ROCK CAFFE EXIT Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2. Open 19:00 02:00. PENXW

SWEET TREATS PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of slastičarnica which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik. com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 20:00. May Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBW

ŠPILJA BAR MORE (CAVE BAR MORE) This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, sales@hotel-more.hr, www. hotel-more.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. W 32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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ART Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B BUŽA What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com. Open according to weather conditions. May Open 08:00 - 02:00. B

CASINOS GOLDEN SUN CASINO Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late.

Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at Golden Sun Casino!QH/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Open 14:00 - 04:00. facebook.com/dubrovnik

Dubrovnik party establishments are few but cover all ages and genres

Photo by Ivana Spring 2014Stanešić 33

Nightlife CLUBS CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh

LOUNGE BARS CULTO Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.

QI-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PABX VICTORIA Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and panache waits.QL-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina), tel. (+38520) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant.com. From May Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on weather conditions. AEK

air and its seaside views.QE-1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin. com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. From May 16 Open 23:00 - 06:00. A EASTWEST BEACH CLUB The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi.

This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+38520) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, marketing@ewdubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. From May Open 22:00 - 04:00. PABW LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.QL-2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www. lazareti.com. Opening hours depend on programme of events.

ORLANDO A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands, DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, klub_umo@ yahoo.com. Open Thu, Fri 18:00 - 24:00 PXW

PUBS ARCH PUB As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, archpub@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJENBXW

Photo by Revelin Archives

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GAFFE PUB It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City, the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most other local stockists of the ‘black stuff ’. We won’t let this spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of a, well, gaffe.QC-3, Miha Pracata 4. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

May Open 09:00 - 01:00. JGBXW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife

Sightseeing

Photo by Brandon Tay

ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00.QD-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn.

LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the 36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 60kn.

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for Spring 2014

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Sightseeing “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C-2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD-3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Sunday Open 07:00 - 13:00. No admission.

THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to Photo by Margarita Biskup the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the 38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Sightseeing best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qwww. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Admission 30 - 100kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QB-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.wix.com.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. For ticket prices check out the box on page 39. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+38520) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. For ticket prices check out the box bellow.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. For ticket prices check out the box to the right. facebook.com/dubrovnik

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. For ticket prices check out the box below.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of

UNIFIED MUSEUM TICKET Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić , Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

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Sightseeing a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature.

His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. For ticket prices check out the box on page 39.

THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish

Sightseeing CHURCHES CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SIGURATA & MUSEUM OF SIGURATA CONVENT (SAMOSTAN I MUZEJ SIGURATA) To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request and by prior arrangement.

Admission 10 - 15kn.

CHURCH OF ST SAVIOUR (CRKVA SV. SPASA) The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.QB-2, Placa bb.

ROZARIO CHURCH AND CONFRATERNITY (CRKVA I BRATOVŠTINA ROZARIO) Opposite the Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles.QD-2, Zlatarska.

Photo by Božo Benić

community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD-2, Žudioska 5. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 25kn.

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SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH (PRAVOSLAVNA CRKVA) Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan.QC-3, Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83, spco@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Church Admission free.

ST IGNATIUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. IGNACIJA) Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. Mass in dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

English From April 20 mass is held in English on Sundays at 11:00.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+38520) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 19:00.

ST KATHERINE’S CONVENT (SAMOSTAN SV. KATARINE) The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.QC-3, Strossmayerova 3.

ST NICHOLAS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. NIKOLE) This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.QD-2, Zlatarska.

ST SEBASTIAN’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. SEBASTIJANA) This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.QD-2, Sv. Dominika.

THE CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA) The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries.

The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the facebook.com/dubrovnik

main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.QD-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -12:00, 15:00 -17:00, Sun 11:00 -12:00, 15:00 - 17:00. From April 20 Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.

LANDMARKS BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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Sightseeing

Sightseeing bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD-3, Pred Dvorom.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+38520) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www. dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Adults 60 - 100kn, Children 30 - 50kn, children under 4 free.

GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D-3.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD-2, Pred Dvorom.

THE AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ) Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed.

QE-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The

THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 1.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Fairline Phantom 40 13m. Max. 12 people

Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E-2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague.

Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL-5.

from 600€

You haven’t seen Dubrovnik until you’ve seen it from the sea half day & full day excursions special events transfers 2014.Quicksilver Activ 675 6.75m. Max. 8 people.

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Locations: Old Town & Lokrum,

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Dubrovnik Surroundings esque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

KORČULA CITY MUSEUM QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@ du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, info@ visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

LASTOVO

Ston Tourist Board Archives

AGROTOURISM AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home-made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. IK KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVIĆ FAMILY Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/ (+385-) 099 215 24 59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (50 - 110kn). PALB

ISLANDS KORČULA Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

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Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturdubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life. Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand.

Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor bb, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59 90 07, tz-lastovo@du.t-com.hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/dubrovnik

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Dubrovnik Surroundings MLJET TOURIST BOARD Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MLJET TOURIST BOARD, POLAČE OFFICE QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tzmljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

KONAVLE

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.

The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are wellmarked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

Tourist Board of Konavle Archives

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp Tourist Board of Konavle Archives

mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road.

After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

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CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece.

A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit.cavtatkonavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. May Open 08:00-19:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.

SOKOL TOWER Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From June Open 10:00 19:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Korčula Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik Surroundings tional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD Ante Starčevića 3, Metković, turisticka.zajednica. metkovic@du.t-com.hr, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA

NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The tradi48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.

Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, Photo by Ivana Kovačić

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and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@ du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 19:00. Closed Sun.

THE WALLS OF STON In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall although we didn’t bother investigating any further. facebook.com/dubrovnik

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Dubrovnik Surroundings THE WALLS OF STON Qwww.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30.

From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable.

With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter

environment and clean beaches. Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here.

Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea.

Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.

Photo by Maja Bakić

your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured. lopud@tzdubrovnik.hr. May Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. Photo by Maja Bakić

Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants. Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find

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Leisure

Shopping ADVENTURE ADRIATIC KAYAK TOURS QK-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/ (+385-) 091 550 83 06, info@adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, dubrovnik@adventuredalmatia.com, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open by prior arrangement.

DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey, you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Q tel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, info@dubrovnikadventures.com, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland.

Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town.

CYCLING TEUTA QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/ (+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz.

Open 08:00 - 19:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

TENNIS BABIN KUK TENNIS CENTRE You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour.QF/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 76 27. From April 10 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

ART GALLERIES

DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB QH-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn.

AR ATELIER 2 A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+38520) 32 17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, antonia.ruskovic@ gmail.com, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 20:00. A

DID YOU KNOW? That Dubrovnik’s Ombla River which is 30 meters long is one of the shortest rivers in the world.

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Bland souvenir shops are gradually taking over Dubrovnik’s main thoroughfares, and if you really think that a ceramic mug bearing the word ‘Dubrovnik’ is going to look good in someone’s kitchen cupboard back home, then you certainly won’t have too much trouble finding one.

Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town. One of the most authentic local products is jewellery. Jewellery was an integral part of local folk costume and also played an important part in local family ritual, with female children receiving earrings at baptism and at other important stages in their lives.

It was traditionally around Zlatarska ulica (Goldsmiths’ Street) that the main jewellery workshops were to be found, although these days they are more randomly scattered throughout the Old Town. What hasn’t changed is that the jewellery sold in the filigree shops has often been made on the premises by local artisans, using traditional folk designs as inspiration. Especially attractive are traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, and large hoop- or drop-earrings adorned with baubles.

Konavle, the region southeast of Dubrovnik, produces a distinctive style of embroidery, rich in brightly coloured geometric shapes. Dazzling white blouses with intricately embroidered borders were once a standard form of female attire, and items like these can still be picked up on souvenir stalls. Konavle embroidery is also used to decorate more modern items such as tablecloths and handkerchiefs.

Dubrovnik’s souvenir shops also sell a great deal of quality products that are common to the whole of Croatia, especially food-and-drink items such as natural honey, olive oil and herb-flavoured rakijas. One of the best places to pick up these is the daily outdoor market on Gundulićeva poljana, although most delicatessens in town also carry a good selection.

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Shopping ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A HERITAGE GALLERY & SHOP A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.hr.

From April 15 Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00. A ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romana-milutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 19:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talirdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

SOUVENIRS BABOON Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.

QI-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com, www. suvenirnica-baboon.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.

The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Shopping IVO BIOČINA - DECORATIVE SCULPTORS WORKSHOP A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J KOKULA ART & CRAFT SHOP Recently opened, this small crafts shop deals exclusively in Croatian-sourced goods. Lace, embroidered items, paintings, carvings, and even cookies and other edible goodies from Dubrovnik, are all available here. None of the inevitable tack which such tourist hotspots attract can be found here.QB-2, Đorđićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 12, kokula@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 21:00.

LEGA-LEGA The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best.QC-2, Dropčeva 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 44, dubrovnik@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. AW MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj.QB/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@ medusa.hr, www.medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. A MUSEUM SHOP The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.QD-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+38520) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A TILDA Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www.tildadubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 20:00. A WAXING LYRICAL Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle?

All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping Clara Stones Jewellery

region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com.

ACCESSORIES CROATA Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie.QD-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

A

DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. A 56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Shopping FRANJA COFFEE & TEAHOUSE A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. May Open 08:00 22:00. A

MAX MARA Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss either way.QD-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda. hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A

GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški cheese from sheep’s milk.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, info@gligora. com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. From April 15 Open 07:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sun.

MODNI KANTUN A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. A

KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

JEWELLERY

XD XENIA DESIGN Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation depart-

ment which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. JA KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

NAUTICAL SUPPLIES LALIZAS MARINA QNa skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel. (+385-20) 45 40 73, dubrovnik@lalizas.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

OLEOTEKA UJE Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC-2, Placa bb, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 32, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. May Open 09:00 - 22:00. A VINOTEKA MILIČIĆ Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A

DESIGNER CLOTHING MARIA If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.

QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@ mariastore.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. May Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A

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Hotels

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

VALAMAR DUBROVNIK PRESIDENT QF-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 44 84 44, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 286 rooms (286 doubles €130 - 200).

PHARFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

UPMARKET

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

LAPAD .QH-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr. 163 rooms (4 singles €135, 153 doubles €214, 4 suites €306, 2 Junior Suites €272). PHAULG BKCW hhhh

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

CREAM OF THE CROP HILTON IMPERIAL DUBROVNIK QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www. dubrovnik.hilton.com. 147 rooms (147 singles from €165, 147 doubles from €185). PTJHA6UFL GBKDCwW hhhhh IMPORTANNE RESORT QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com, www. importanneresort.com. 291 rooms (212 doubles €50 250, 79 apartments €70 - 400). PHAUFLG BKDCW KAZBEK QH-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €120 - 383, 1 suite €293 - 420). PZHA6LGK DCW hhhhh

UVALA QG-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €48 54, 6 triples €38 - 43). Prices are per person per night.

PHAIFLGBKDCwW hhhh VALAMAR ARGOSY QF-1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 44 84 44, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €90 - 165).

PTHARLEGBKCW hhhh VALAMAR LACROMA DUBROVNIK QF-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 84 44, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 385 rooms (385 doubles €90 - 160).

PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhh

MID-RANGE AQUARIUS QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www. hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €86, 8 doubles €116, 4 triples €174, 4 suites €140). PALBKW hhh

RIXOS LIBERTAS DUBROVNIK QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos. com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000). PZOTHAUFLGB KDCwW hhhhh

BERKELEY QJ-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (20 doubles €60 - 140, 4 apartments €120 - 160). PALGCW hhh

THE PUCIĆ PALACE QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+38520) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www. thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €190 - 230, 16 doubles €220 - 310, 1 suite €625 - 780, 1 Junior Suite €450 - 560). PZTJAR6GBKW hh hhh

KOMODOR QG-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40 - 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67). Prices are per person per night. PHALEBKCW hhh

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LERO QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+38520) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotel-lero. hr. 159 rooms (150 doubles €104 - 120, 9 apartments €170).

PHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhh PETKA QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www. hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms (8 singles €66 - 85, 96 doubles €86 - 90). PHARILGBKW hhh TIRENA QF-2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 44 84 44, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €70 - 130).

PHALGBKCW hhh VALAMAR CLUB DUBROVNIK QF-2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 84 44, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €70 - 130).

PTAR6LGBKCW hhh VIS QG-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles €40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66).

PALEGBKW hhh

BUDGET ADRIATIC QG-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 20, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 107 rooms (9 singles €32 76, 81 doubles €24 - 62, 17 triples €15 - 50). Prices are per person per night. PAFLEGBKW hh

DUBROVNIK YOUTH HOSTEL QI-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 1517), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds, 103 205kn per person. ARGBKW FRESH SHEETS QB-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.freshsheetshostel.com. 16 dorm beds, 15 - 28€ per person. AGW VILA MICIKA QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika. hr. 16 dorm beds, 42 - 46€ per person. PA6GW

ISLANDS KORČULA QObala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 10 78, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www. korcula-hotels.com. 20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples €50 - 80). PABK hhh

OUT OF TOWN INDIJAN QŠkvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55, fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@hotelindijan.hr, www.hotelindijan. hr. Open from April 15. 19 rooms (3 singles €79 - 109, 14 doubles €119 - 209, 2 apartments €159 - 249).

PAFLGKDCW hhhh OSTREA QMali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45 55, fax (+385-20) 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. 14 rooms (13 singles €63 - 68, 13 doubles €96 - 110, 1 Presidental Suite €167). PA6LGBKW hhh PLAT HOTELS AND VILLAS QPlat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. 236 rooms (129 doubles €58 - 80, 107 apartments €60 - 122).

PALGBKCW hhh RADISSONBLU RESORT & SPA QNa moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, booking.dubrovnik@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik. 408 rooms (207 apartments €120 - 500, 178 Deluxe Rooms €120 - 240, 20 Junior Suites €190 - 350, 2 Executive Suites €1500, 1 Presidential Suite €2000). PZ THA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh

Photo by Jaroen van Rijsbergen

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HOSTEL

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www.inyourpocket.com Spring 2014

59

Street register

Directory CONSULATES

18:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg).

BELGIUM QH-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 76, sabine@terranautika.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SUNCE LaundryQI-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18. Open 07:00 - 19:00. N

DENMARK QI-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ITALY QI-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, ragusa.onorario@esteri.it. Open by arrangement.

THE NETHERLANDS QH-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41/(+385) 091 456 79 01, 091 396 63 22, nlconsul.dubrovnik@ atlant.hr. Open Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.

PETS BOBANOVIĆ Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A FAUNA Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

PHARMACIES REAL ESTATE

Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .

ALAVIJA NEKRETNINE QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, fax (+385-20) 35 68 56, info@ alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnik-properties.info.

Open 09:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement.

GRUŽ QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

PRO KREČAK QJ-4, Put Republike 14, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02/ (+385-) 098 42 76 50, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www. nekretnine-prokrecak.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. ZLATKA QI-2, Vukovarska 30, tel. (+385-20) 35 68 65/(+385-) 091 454 00 04, zlatka@zlatka.hr, www.zlatka.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDRIES AMO WASH & DRY QI-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ELEGANT Dry cleaners.QI-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N SANJA & ROSIE’S LAUNDRETTE Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon request.QE-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com. From April Open 09:00 60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

KOD ZVONIKA QC-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A LAPAD QG/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

POST If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

CENTRAL POST OFFICE QI-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

DID YOU KNOW? The last three seasons of the hugely popular American Medieval Fantasy TV series ‘Game of Thrones’, which is an adaptation of a series of epic novels entitled ‘A Song of Ice and Fire’ by George. R. R. Martin, was filmed in Dubrovnik.

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A. Barca A. Bošković A. Hallera A. Hebranga A. Kazali A. Mihanovića A. Šenoe A.G. Matoša A.T. Mimare Androvićeva Ante Starčevića Antuninska Aquarium Arhiv Asimon B. Bušića Bernarda Shawa Babin Kuk Bandureva Banjska Batahovina Batala Biokovska Bokar Bokeljska Boninovo Bosanka Boškovićeva Božatska Braće Andrijića Branitelja Dubrovnika Brdasta Brgatska

H-2,3 J-2,3 I-2 H-1/I-2/J-2 H-2 J-2 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-4 I-2 C-2 E-3 D-2 E-1 L-2 K-2 G-2 D-4 I-3 G-1 H-2/I-2 G-2 A-3 G-1 J-3 L-2 C-2 I-2 D-4 J-3 J-2 L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2,3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Street register Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1,2/J-2 I,J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C,B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

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Street register

ne

Lovrijenac XV-XVI

Grad

Danče

Gorica Sv. Vlaha

Lokrum 62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Spring 2014

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A

(XV.-XVI. st.)

Iza gra da

Uz p osa t

Franjevački samostan (XIV.-XVII. st.)

Franjevačka farmacija (1317.)

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Revelin Rev Re eve velin ((XV.-XVI. (X XV.-X .-XVI. ..-XV -XVI. -X -XV XXVVVIII.. st sst.) tt.).).)

Dominikanski samostan Trg Trg rg oružja ooruž oru oružj ružja ru ruž ružj žjjaa žj EETTI (XIV-XVI. st.)

ZZAARETI ZARET AZA AAZAR AZ LAZARETI LAZA LLA Pos Po Posat ossat Franjevačka Dominikanska crkva Velika crkva ukaa uka Luk SSv.v. Luka Onofrijeva ika Gradske min Polja vačke Dubro fontana (XV. st.) o D zidine . n Sinagoga P. Mil a ljetne igre Spomen soba Sv ičević ULAZ/IZLAZZ Placa a dubrovačkih Stradu n Matica branitelja Samostan Hrvatska Arhiv Sv. Klare (XIII. st.)

O d po Sponza lača (XVI. st.)

Zavod za obnovu Srpska Ribarnica Dubrovnika pravoslavna Orlando Za R Kino crkva (XV. st.) okom Znanstvena m Dom Do Sloboda (1877.)

Marina Cvijet knjižnica Mala e Z Gradska Gradska O d pu uzorić Držića Onofrijeva ča vijećnica kavana Narodna fontana knjižnica (1440.)

Kazalište P Hliđ rela Crkva Marina Držića ina zna ja Džami N .

G Vlaha Sv. učeti Muzej Žitnica ć a dvor Knežev 1715.

AT ORRAT PORAT Rupe de iide uid ui uid Guide Gu GGui (XIV.-XVII. st.)

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VI. -XXVI .-XVI. XXIIV.-X XIV (XI (X (XIV.-XVI. ica Poljana AZ IZZLLAZ IZL Z/IZ AZZ/I LAZ/ ULAZ/I UULAZ/ UL ULAZ/IZLAZ M. Držića u um ium rium riu ariu a ari uari uar quari qu q qua Aquarium Aq A Aqu Kneza Damjana Jude Bunićeva Katedrala PPoorp (1713.) poljana S rppoor Strossm ore rel ellaa ki ski sk rrsski orsk ors morsk mo mor oom omo Pomorski Pom PPo ayerov Od pustijerne Riznica Umjetnička a zejj uzej uze muzej muzej muz mu škola Luka Androvićeva Sorkočević Crkva Sv. Ignacija (1725.)

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