Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No9

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

DUBROVNIK Winter 2011/2012

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Experience Dubrovnik this coming winter and spring Enriche your experience with numerous crafty workshops

N°9 - complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

Sparkle of a different kind

See the beauty of silk production in Konavle

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Contents

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Contents Arriving in Dubrovnik

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Where the action is

Introducing Dubrovnik

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What’s it all about?

Glossary

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Don’t get caught with your trousers down

Culture & Events

9 Renaissance art to island reggae Silk Production 17

Where to stay

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Home sweet home

Restaurants

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Enjoy the riches

Cafés

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Where to watch the world go by

Nightlife

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“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”

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An explorer’s bible

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Take a little piece of my heart

Those sights explained

Interactive

Mail & Phones

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When you just gotta boogie

What to see

You never know what you are bound to bump into in the Old Town, take a look at these parrots having a nibble.

Workshops, cooking and cycling

Getting around

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Shopping

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Business Directory

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Banks and stuff

Lifestyle Directory

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Important numbers

Dubrovnik Neretva County

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Out and about around the city

Maps & Index

See another side to Dubrovnik this winter and spring with some handy workshops available, visit our Interactive category for further details. Photo by Ljubo Gamulin

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County map Street index City map City centre map Index Country map

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Winter 2011/2012

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Foreword Producing a guide to Dubrovnik in the off-season didn’t seem like such a good idea at the outset. Isn’t this the time of year when half of the hotels close down, the locals stay at home to recover their tourist-frazzled nerves, a cold wind whistles through a deserted Old Town and tumbleweeds roll down an empty Stradun?

Europe In Your Pocket

In fact we didn’t have as much trouble filling our pages as we thought. Winter in the southern Adriatic is chock-full of intriguing events, with centre stage occupied by the pageantry of St Blaise’s Day on February 3 and the preLenten carnival later that month. Both of these festivals are authentic folk affairs, celebrated by locals for at least the last one thousand years – they’re certainly very different from the tourist-oriented entertainments that take place in town over the summer.

It’s also frequently forgotten that Dubrovnik is a university city hosting a year-round population of hormonally-fuelled young humans – few of whom have much to worry about save for which café to lounge around in and where to begin the weekend campaign of partying. And with traditionally mild winter weather usually followed by the onset of an early spring, the city’s social life remains a vibrant, vivacious and largely outdoor affair whatever the time of year.

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business...

Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

Download free instant guide! dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-0852 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover: Duje Klarić, Lighthouse Ploča. One of the participants of the photo competition.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket broke much new ground in 2010, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brač and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Niš) and in Switzerland (Zurich). We also took the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. We also began rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities.

We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides in 2011: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Kornelia Kovačević, Gordan Karabogdan Photos DIY Pocket team, DubrovnikNeretva County Tourist Board, Marko Ercegović, Eugen Miljan, Marin Šperanda, Krešimir Žanetić, Adriatic Photo Service, Kojan koral Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account Manager Mirna Cindrić

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2010. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Arriving in dubrovnik Tourist information Tourist Information Centres Gruž I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured. pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

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Tourist Boards Dubrovnik-Neretva County Touris Board

I-3, Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, inf o@visitdubrovnik.hr, w w w.visitdubrovnik. hr. Q Op en 08:00 - 16:00. Cl os e d Sa t, Sun. Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

By boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver immediately on boarding.

By bus The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn.

Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn per hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next door (Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost 12kn from the driver or 10kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70 and 0800 14 41.

By car For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.

Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.

When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for traffic information.

By plane Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Du-

brovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn. Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33 33, www. airport-dubrovnik.hr.

By train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122.783 Dubrovnik (April 2011): 28.113 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure!

Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.

Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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INTRODUCING DUBROVNIK

It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride.

Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter.

That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.

But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.

The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that

it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today.

This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, in 2010 held for the 61st time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.

Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses.

It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

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Winter 2011/2012

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GLOSSARY

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Health & Safety

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.

The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

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Roads

Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

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75

10 0 -10 -20

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M A M

Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.

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Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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Take a hike!

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In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.

After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula, or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office in Cavtat for a map.

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If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

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Culture & Events Exhibitions 22.12 Thursday 2011 - 05.02 2012 Sunday

Branko Kovačević (1911-1988.) Exhibition celebrating the 100th anniversary since the birth of the artist D-3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery / Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića One artist’s unlimited by style and theme with paintings that contain elements of expressionism, constructivism and intimism.

Some of Kovačević’s highlights include majestic portrayals of the Mediterranean Sea and in particular motives of Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

25.11 Friday - 02.01 2012 Monday

Mirko Rački (1879-1982) Works with sacral motives from the Dubrovnik Ar t Galler y Collection

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. Upon entering this exhibit you may think you are in some chapel or so for Rački was fascinated by sacral themes and images often portraying the crucifixion, the resurrection and other holy themes. A special catalogue will explain his works, special orders and newspaper articles published in his time.

Tošo Dabac

15.01 2012 Sunday - 15.02 2012 Wednesday

Performance in Dubrovnik

L-5, Dubrovnik Ar t Gallery, Frana Supila 23. The inauguration of this event was in the late 1980’s and most works reflect social and political themes as well as the personal world of emotions dream and desires. This event is a platform for local artists to express their talents through performance as captured in photographs, video and other mediums.

01.03 2012 Thursday - 20.04 2012 Friday

Mato Celestin Medović - Retrospective

Tošo Dabac

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23, www. ugdubrovnik.hr. The exhibition by the most famous Croatian painter-plenerist is the pinnacle of this year’s Dubrovnik Art Gallery’s art season. Mato Celestin Medović was the founder of 20th century Croatian landscape fine art. He is the serene counterpart of the ‘temperamental and light manner’ of Vlaho Bukovac with whom he was the founder of Croatian Modern Art. Mediterranean landscapes beaming with sunshine, still life paintings, subtle portraits and magnificent altar pallets, as well as rich historical inscenations, are reason enough for a prolonged stay in the halls of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery during these spring months.

November 2011 - January 2012

Adver tising in Dubrovnik’s newspaper s between 1882 and 1918 D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. From the late 19th century and up until the First World War tabloids fared prominently in this Medieval City and this exhibition reflects the birth and development of advertising via age old city newspapers. Take light of the detail, print and format with attention given to advertisements relating to goods and services by private and public personas, merchants, craftsmen, local, and foreign entrepreneurs throughout the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire. The intensive life in the city is seen throughout these prints!

Cinemas Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 25. Q Box office open two hours before the first projection.

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November 2011 -January 2012

Tošo Dabac

Lloyd’s Travels

D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. What was it like to travel in style over 100 years ago? This exhibition presents the beginning of round trip cruises in our country with images of cruise ships made by the company ‘Yugoslav Lloyd’. Their steam boats ‘Queen Mary’ and ‘Princess Olga’ personify the luxury and content that was offered back then. See the destinations they visited, the types of travellers who craved such tourism, as well as their impressions and experiences.

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Culture & Events Four days of carnival 18.02 2012 Saturday - 21.02 2012 Tuesday

Four days of Dubrovnik carnival

Libertas Film Festival

February - July 2012

Saint Blaze in history and art

D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1 and Žitnica Rupe (Granary Rupe).

When strolling around the Old City of Dubrovnik simply count the amount of times you pass an image of Saint Blaze, patron to Dubrovnik. You’ll be left dumfound! He lives not only in the walls but in the hearts of city folk and has so since the 10th century. A huge insight is given into his life, his works, his martyrdom and visions that saved this city from imperial attack. As a symbol of the city, his images in art, banners, money, stamps, medals through to statues on city buildings and walls are everywhere. City museums will hold exhibitions that portray the importance of Saint Blaze as seen through art and culture, a true adornment to a much loved Saint.

May 2012 - June 2012

Steve McCurry - Photographs

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23.

See the work of New York based photojournalist Steve McCurry who is best known for his award winning photograph ‘Afghan Girl’. Having covered international conflicts from all over the world, this renegade with a camera presents several of his series from the 1980s until today. Themes differ from landscape shots, portraits to images of war.

As in most other Mediterranean countries, the carnival season occupies a hugely symbolic position in the Dubrovnik calendar, representing the last great party of the winter and acting as something of a season-opener for the coming spring.

The days leading up to Shrove Tuesday have been a time for dressing up and playing the fool ever since the medieval era, when the carnival period was the one time of year when the lower orders were allowed to make fun of their rulers without being locked up. In Croatia this satirical tradition still lives on, with many locals opting for carnival disguises which satirize personalities who were in the news over the course of the previous year.

This year’s Dubrovnik carni val span s four days, kicking off on the morning of Februar y 18th in front of Saint Blaise’s Church wi th the šporke makarule cooking competition - in which chefs from the city’s hotels compete in preparing the traditional dish of the title. Literally “dirty macaroni”, šporke makarule consists of locally-made pasta drenched in delicious beef-goulash sauce. It has long been a mainstay of every self-respecting Dubrovnik housewife’s culinary repertoire, even if it hardly ever appears on local restaurant menus.

Over the next three days a series of fancy-dress parades weave their way through the Old Town, and charity balls are held in Revelin Fortress. The carnival culminates with the main parade on Tuesday 21st, when groups of locals (including school-children, work colleagues, and sports teams) file along the Stradun dressed in disguises that they may well have been working on for the whole of the previous year. For most of the participants this is a thoroughly modern exercise in fancy dress, although recent years have seen the re-emergence of some of the more ritualistic carnival characters of old - strange, shaggy-haired monsters such as the gaping-mouthed Coroje and the long-necked Turica are unique to the Dubrovnik region.

Special events 03.12 Saturday - 07.04 2012 Saturday

Metropolitan Opera

B-2, Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4. Opera devotees ought to be jumping in queues to see some smashing shows broadcast live in spectacular 5D vision from New York’s famous Metropolitan Opera. If you cannot be there in person, then this is second to none! Choose from the following shows Faust by Charles Gounod - 10. 12 2011 Enchated Island - 21. 01 2012 Manon by Jules Massenet- 07. 04 2012

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Info: Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr.

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Culture & Events 06.12 2011 Tuesday - 06.01 2012 Friday

Christmas fair

D-3, U Luži, head towards the front of the Church tower, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Local craftsmen display hand-made decorations, candles, toys, glassware, textiles and ceramics, while you’ll be unable to resist the scent of home-made Christmas cookies, mulled wine, sugared almonds, candied fruits and other local sweet specialities. Never mind, it’s all ripened under the Dubrovnik sun so we’re sure they’re a natural and healthy option too!

31.12 Saturday

New Year’s Eve

C-2, Stradun. Stradun, in the heart of the city is a sight to see come New Year’s Eve; adorned with Christmas lights and carols, it’s always filled with cheer and activity. Count down to 2012 with some of the biggest names from the Croatian music scene.The fireworks spectacle is set to light up the skies above the city.

27.01 2012 Friday

The Night of the Museums

If you’re in town then your timing is exquisite as this is the one evening that many of the countries museums are open to the general public, and entry is entirely free! Imagine a pub crawl made for museums, hop from one to the other with additional events, lectures, workshops and cultural programmes on offer, all in the one night.

10.04 2012 Tuesday - 14.04 2012 Saturday

Libertas Film Festival & Forum 2012

Sloboda Cinema, Pred Dvorom 1; Visia Cinema, Valamar Lacroma Resort Cinema, Iva Dulčića 34, www. libertasfilmfestival.com. Jam packed and full of delights in what is the 8th edition of this film festival. Not only will you be entertained by great world cinema, this interactive event aims at giving young hopefuls a place to present their work: includes lectures, panel discussions, film workshops and a film forum to get your hearts racing when it comes to the big screen. Best of all, it is free!

Candlelight Concerts Candlelight Concer ts What could be a more

pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in the atmospheric sorroundings of St Saviour’s Church right on the Stradun?

March 2012 Fridays: The best off great composers, programme perforemed by soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena Čorak, piano.

April, May 2012 Mondays: Sorkočević Quartet.

Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. Fridays: The best off great composers, programme perforemed by soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena Čorak, piano.

23.04 2012 Monday - 07.05 2012 Monday

The Dubrovnik Shakespeare Festival

www.dubrovnikshakespearefestival.com. The stage truly comes to life with works by Shakespeare and his Croatian counterpart Marin Držić. Enter a world bound only by imagination. Pink Floyd’s classic Rock Opera, other world premieres and workshops are in the spotlight. And then there is gem artist Genia Chef who will spend nine days painting a 2mx2m oil painting of Shakespeare using materials and techniques dating to the 17th century.

24.05 2012 Thursday - 27.05 2012 Sunday

Dubrovnik International Wine&Jazz Festival

w w w.dubrovnikwinejazz.com. For the second time Dubrovnik becomes a jazz centrepiece with venues such as the Stradun and the Knežov Palace transformed into a stage. A grand line-up of international and local jazz musicians playing Latin jazz to Big Band swing, from New Orleans jazz to gospel blues and much more are sure to entertain. Add to that the local artists and sumptuous wine and food, its one event that is hard to miss.

Marin Držić Theatre

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Culture & Events

Martina Hohnjec

Galleries Dubrovnik Ar t Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42

65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija. dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3,

Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.dubrovnik@du.tcom.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candycoloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

Homeland War

Artur Gallery Artur Gallery B-3, Od Domina 2.

December 2011

Toni Robinson and Paul Maloney A cross cultural treat is in store which is part of the international exchange between Ireland and Croatia. An exhibition of oils on canvas by two Irish academic painters Toni Robinson and Paul Maloney, together with the promotion and presentation of the book ‘Dubrovnik’ as published in the Irish language will be on show for all to see.

10.01 2012 Tuesday - 30.01 2012 Monday

Carnival in Dubrovnik - An exhibition of masks made in the papier-mâché technique.

01.02 2012 Wednesday - 10.02 2012 Friday

In Honour of Saint Blaze - A collective exhibition on the patron Saint Blaze.

March 2012

Pigeons - An exhibition by Ivana Marinović

April 2012

Memento Milovan Stanić - An exhibition.

May 2012

The Dubrovnik Fountains - A collective exhibition.

June 2012

Nela Račić - An exhibition of oils on canvas.

Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 19911995 Imperial Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the ‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Libertas Film Festival

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Culture & Events

MUSEUM SHOP OF THE DUBROVNIK MUSEUMS Are you looking for a truly unique gift or souvenir?

Something that will remind you of an unforgettable experience, full of the history and cultural heritage of the Pearl of the Adriatic, or something to convey to your friends back home the full enchantment that Dubrovnik offers?

You’ve come to the right place! The Dubrovnik Museums Shop offers a wide choice of fascinating, fine quality gifts.

Our dedicated staff are on hand to give you the best possible advice and service. ~ Replicas of museum exhibits ~ Household goods and decorations ~ Clothing and fashion accessories ~ Jewellery ~ Postcards and greetings cards ~ Books and catalogues ...and much, much more Your purchase supports The Dubrovnik Museums and caring for the heritage.

Visit the Dubrovnik Museums Shop at the Rector’s Palace, open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. (until 22 March), thereafter from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Culture & Events Easter time If you happen to be in town at Easter, you’ll have the good fortune to be able to sample the local foods of the season and experience how Easter traditions are interpreted in and around Dubrovnik. Easter eggs here are handmade by chickens, and decorated by people with delicate motifs in beeswax, coloured with onion skin or pine (a process locally known as penganje). The result was an ornament to be given as a mark of love, friendship and devotion. On Palm Sunday people carry olive branches or intricately woven ornaments made from palms leaves. You can learn how to make these decorations yourself at the Easter workshops run by the Deša humanitarian women’s group.

(See: Interactive Category)

Phil Newman

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building.

Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.

Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.

In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.

The Feast of St Blaise 03.02 2012 Friday

Falling on February 3, the Feast of St Blaise (Sveti Vlaho, see p.XY) is arguably the most important date in the Dubrovnik calendar, bringing hordes of local people onto the streets and showcasing a good deal of folkloric tradition.

In September 2009 the feast was included by UNESCO on the so-called “Intangible Cultural Heritage” list, which aims to nurture unique social rituals which have a long and authentic history. The cult of St Blaise has been central to Dubrovnik since the tenth century, and his feast day is known to have been celebrated every year without a break since at least 1190.

The festivities commence on February 2, when doves are released in front of St Blaise’s Church by the Bishop of Dubrovnik. The next morning a commemorative mass is held, followed at around 11:30 by a solemn procession of priests and locals, many wearing folk costume and waving

large banners. The procession heads up Od Puča before returning to the church via the Stradun, watched by packed crowds of onlookers - many of whom come regularly from other parts of Croatia to be here on this day. Arm and leg reliquaries containing the bones of St Blaise are carried among the throng, allowing the faithful to touch them as they pass.

A fun-for-all-the-family party atmosphere takes over in the evening of the 3rd, when locals re-enact a nineteenthcentury open-air version of bingo known as the “tombula” in front of the Sponza Palace. As in cheesy British bingo halls, the caller attaches silly names to the numbers (number 77 is referred to as “ladies’ legs”), but in Dubrovnik - in a fantastic improvement on the game of bingo as it is played elsewhere - the losers are allowed to express their dissatisfaction by throwing rotten eggs and oranges at the caller.

Marin Šperanda

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events Marin Držić (1508 – 1567) One o f Dubrovnik’s most cherished cultural icons is Marin Držić, the sixteenth-century play wright who was (as far as we know) the first person to write a major drama in the C roa tia n l a n gu a ge.

Despite writing in an archaic dialect that is difficult for modern audiences to follow, Držić is the one Croatian dramatist that local schoolchildren are forced to read at least once in their lives.

B o r n i n to a fa m i l y of merchants, Držić studied theology in Siena and it was h ere th a t h e ca m e into contact with early Renaissance theatre.

After failing to make much of a mark in any post-university career, however, Držić spent his mid-thirties working as secretary to Austrian diplomat Count Christoph von Rogendorf – exposure to the court life of Vienna and Constantinople providing Držić with plenty of useful plot ideas. Držić’s most productive period occurred during his forties, when he wrote a series of comedies and farces, and at least one tragedy (“Hecuba”), the text of which is now lost.

These plays were performed during the Dubrovnik carnival season or at the high-society social functions of the local nobility. Failing to achieve much in the way of either fame or fortune however, Držić returned to Italy in 1562. Previous experience of diplomatic intrigues under von Rogendorf probably left Držić with inflated ideas of his own conspiratorial abilities, and he hatched a plot to overthrow the Dubrovnik Republic with help from Italian princes. Ruler of Florence Cosimo de Medici failed to answer Držić’s letters on the subject, and the playwright ended a largely frustrated and unfulfilled life in Venice in 1567.

The cultural heritage of Dubrovnik played a crucial role in the Croatian national revival of the nineteenth century, when Renaissance literary gems were dusted off and hailed as landmarks of artistic achievement. It was seventeenthcentury poet Ivan Gundulić who initially profited most from this process of literary archeology, and it wasn’t until the 1930s that people seriously considered putting Drzic’s works back on the Croatian stage. Since then Držić has become an important symbol of Dubrovnik’s contribution to European culture, and his works usually enjoy a central role in the annual Dubrovnik Festival.

However Dubrovnik has always struggled to make Držić relevant to foreign visitors and there are no signs of anyone hitting on the magical formula any time soon. The Marin Držić House-Museum (see page 35) is a pretty amusing place to visit but for all the wrong reasons: despite the relative lack of any meaningful exhibits, visitors are given a headphone commentary on which hammy actors plod their way through a series of Držić-penned text, rendered here in awful English translation. All of which is a great shame when one considers that Držić is as important to his own language as Shakespeare and Molière are to theirs.

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Orlando O n e o f D u b rov n i k’s best-loved landmarks is Orlando’s Column, a pillar in the centre of busy Luža Square with a sword-brandishing knight standing to attention on its northern side. Erected in 1414, it has always served as an unofficial symbol of Dubrovnik’s freedomloving status – and it’s here that the Libertas banner is ritually unfurled to mark the opening of the Dubrovnik Festival every July.

Orlando is the Italian (and Dubrovnik dialect) name for Roland, a legendary eighth-century Frankish knight who died heroically defending a Pyrenean pass from an army of Saracens. The tale was popularized by the Chanson de Roland, an eleventh-centur y Norman-French poem that was spread across Europe by wandering troubadours. Preaching chivalrous values such as loyalty to one’s liege and a readiness to fight unto the last, the Chanson was hugely popular in courtly circles and was also useful as a propaganda tool, encouraging western knights to join the Crusades.

The original Roland was thought to have been a nephew of the great Frankish Emperor Charlemagne, and his cult was cultivated by rulers eager to associate themselves with imperial glamour. Roland’s popularity spread throughout German-speaking Europe during the reign of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, and it was here that statues of Roland began to catch on in a big way – no self-respecting city wanted to be left without one. Over 50 statues of the knight sprung up in various locations, with Dubrovnik being the southernmost city to sprout an example.

How and why Roland-mania arrived in Dubrovnik remains unclear. The city was well acquainted with the world of central Europe (indeed Charles IV’s son Sigismund of Luxemburg passed through here in 1396), so it’s no surprise that the knightly cult found expression here too.

Local chroniclers developed the appealing but wholly improbable theory that Roland himself once visited Dubrovnik, duelling with a Saracen pirate called Spuzente and saving the city in the process. Placing a statue of Roland in a prominent city square was a subtle way of reminding Dubrovnik’s Ottoman suzerains that the locals would always identify with Christian Europe rather than Constantinople.

The statue was knocked over by a storm in 1825, and lay forgotten in a storehouse until someone thought it wise to re-erect it in 1878. Since then the angelic-faced little knight has become the city’s most popular social focus, presiding over countless chance meetings and assignations.

www.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011/2012

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silk production Silk Production in Konavle The Chinese discovered how to make silk as long ago as 2850 BC. They jealously guarded the secrets of breeding silkworms and making silk from the rest of the world: the act of smuggling silkworms over the border was punishable by death. However, a pair of missionaries smuggled out silkworm pupae in their bamboo staffs and thus the Europeans came to know this fine fabric in the 5th century BC. According to the oldest written records, silk production in Dubrovnik’s Konavle region goes back to the 15th century.

Silk was an exceptionally important fabric here since it was used in weaving the Konavle folk dress – one of the most beautiful aspects of Croatian cultural heritage. In this part of the world, people literally were born with silk, lived with it and died with it, and the art of producing silk was passed among women from generation to generation. Women from Konavle had great respect for the tradition of breeding silkworms and making silk; it was a part of their regional identity and a family tradition to which they remained loyal.

You can see silk worked into Konavle folk dress, most often on decorative bibs and bodices, aprons, caps, waistcoats, suits and elsewhere.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about silk production is rearing the silkworms themselves. In order to obtain the highest quality threads, man must work in harmony with silk moths, silk worms (in Konavle dialect: bubice) and the white mulberry trees on which they feed. The silken threads are teased from the silkworm’s cocoon (punćela), which is made from a single thread of raw silk between 300 and 900 metres long.

Up until the 1960s almost everyone in the Konavle region made silk, but then the tradition started to die out. It is thanks to the hard work and dedication of a small number of local women that the tradition managed to survive and be passed on for a few more generations.

However, the war that broke out here in the 1990s abruptly robbed the women of Konavle of their homes and livelihoods.

If it hadn’t been for a lady named Jany Hansal from the local non-governmental organization Deša, who managed to bring the silkworms back to the south of Croatia, the silkmaking tradition may now be just a memory. 18 years ago the bubice returned to Konavle, smuggled in from France in the voluptuous curves of one lady.

Today around ten families in Konavle raise silkworms, and silk is an attractive part of the tourist offering. During the month of May, the time when the silkworms feed, workshops on producing silk are held throughout Konavle (See Interactive Category). You can also take part: perhaps you’ll fall in love with this ancient craft and start raising your own silkworms and making this wonderful fabric. Thank goodness for the women of Konavle who refused to allow this part of Konavle’s identity and heritage to be lost forever.

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Where to stay Cream of the crop Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 35 30 00,

fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www. alh.hr. Renovated with 91 rooms that provide spectacular balcony views of the Adriatic and a minimalist interior equipped with all the necessities. Indulge in local art works, à la carte restaurant Vapor, spa centre, indoor pool, a private beach and more. Only minutes from the town centre. Closed November 15 - March.Q91 rooms (77 doubles €232 - 800, 13 suites €495 - 1200, 1 Presidential Suite €2900 - 3200).

PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh

Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. (+38520) 43 00 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@ alh.hr, www.alh.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary tastes and take your surroundings seriousl y. A great pool and beach area, spa facilities and cool reception complete with arty waterfall and gallery. Closed November 21 - March.Q 330 rooms (22 singles €161 - 320, 271 doubles €180 - 540, 12 suites €630 - 1600, 24 Junior Suites €300 - 940, 1 Presidential Suite €3420 - 3800).

PTHARUFLEGBKDCW hhhhh Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-20) 35 33 53, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www. alh.hr. Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has 141 bedrooms and 17 suites with every amenity possible.

Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near the heart of the Old City with splendid terraced views, fine dining with Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor pool, wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and more.

Q158 rooms (2 singles €218 - 340, 139 doubles €218 - 790, 16 suites €675 - 1300, 1 Presidential Suite €3750 - 4050).

POTJHARUFLGBKDCW hhhhh Grand Villa Argentina L-2, Frana Supila 14, tel. (+38520) 44 05 55, fax (+385-20) 47 57 93, reservations@ gva.hr, www.gva.hr. Something of a Dubrovnik classic, the Argentina has been receiving high-rollers ever since its 1920s heyday. Located ten minutes’ walk from the Ploče Gate, many

of the hotel’s sea-facing rooms boast classic views of the town’s medieval fortifications. Rooms in the main building are supremely comfortable, and there is more secluded apartment-style accommodation in the four villas in the terraced gardens. With both indoor and outdoor pools and a private beach, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to taking a dip. Open from March.Q165 rooms (159 doubles €140 390, 6 suites €390 - 1200). PTHAFGBKDCW hhhhh Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton. com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight. Q147 rooms (139 singles €89, 139 doubles €134, 139 triples €179, 4 suites €398, 1 Presidental Suite €1003, 3 Junior Suites €321).

PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.

Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from two hotels, Neptun (4 stars) or Ariston (5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q236 rooms (206 doubles €50 - 200, 30 apartments €70 - 400).

PTHAUIFLGBKDCW More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr, www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too, with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouserpress, a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless.

Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing terrace.

Q44 rooms (5 singles €150, 34 doubles €190, 2 Junior Suites €350, 2 Deluxe Suites €450, 1 Executive Suites €600).

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Symbol key

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

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Where to stay

Visit Dubrovnik Sun Gardens award winning Spa, and spend your cold winter afternoons in a variety of indulgent treatments, hydrotherapy pool with therapeutic massage jets , traditional coal and salt sauna, hammam, aromatherapy steam room and much more.

For more active leisure time choose between a range of facilities from our comprehensive sports and recreation centre -a-side football pitch.

www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put

3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved.

With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering).

The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting ou t your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively large congress halls are situated right next door to the 24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €300 - 750, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000).

POTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@ thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic. The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 singles €95 - 225, 16 doubles €120 - 415, 1 suites €625 - 775, 1 Junior Suite €450 - 550).

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Upmarket Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44,

fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www. hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Open from March. Q8 rooms (4 singles 743 - 1005kn, 4 doubles 1050 - 1440kn).

PJA6UGBW hhhh Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities making this a viable business option. Open from March 25. Q51 rooms (45 doubles €150 - 270, 6 triples €120 - 216). PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Mid-range Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20)

49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@ berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Closed January 15 - March. Q24 rooms (13 doubles €65 - 120, 4 apartments €100 - 160, 7 Studio Rooms €70 - 140). PALGCW hhh

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Where to stay seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent. Closed February 10 - March. Q115 rooms (7 singles €80 - 150, 108 doubles €95 - 270). PTHAIFLEGBKDC hhh Lero I-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotellero.hr. This complex is perfectly located between the Old Town and Gruž Cove. It’s a five minute bus ride to the centre and the beach is a mere 150m walk. All 160 rooms include air-conditioning, SAT-TV, shower, and toilet facilities. Breakfast and dinner packages are available as Tavern Nava and the Aperitif Bar are all in-house. Q155 rooms (155 singles €52 - 68, 155 doubles €60 - 88). PHA6LBKDCW hhh Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+38520) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka. hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings in Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building. Closed December, January. Q104 rooms (8 singles €35, 96 doubles €50).

PHARIFLGBKW hhh Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 50, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather friendly. Prices are per person. Open from March 25. Q151 rooms (9 singles €46 - 108, 136 doubles €82 - 182, 6 triples €122 - 255). PTHALEGBKW hhh

Looking for more? Just click! dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Hostel Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana

Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@ hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there’s great outdoor seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Open from March 25. Q63 rooms (8 singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252).

PTHA6LEBKCW hhh Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. (+38520) 35 20 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@ alh.hr, www.alh.hr. This smallish hotel close to the centre of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful style in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and outdoor Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs. hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds, 17 - 19€ per person. ABK

Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-)

091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel. There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange, and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highly-recommended) “walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Open from March 15. Q22 dorm beds, 20 - 30€ per person. AGW

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Where to stay

Budget Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35

20, fax (+385-20) 43 35 30, adriatic@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula.

Q108 rooms (9 singles €40 - 80, 82 doubles €68 - 148, 17 triples €68 - 148). PA6FLEGBK hh

Islands Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q20 rooms (18 doubles €50 - 80, 2 triples €50 - 80). PABK hhh

Out of town Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47

55 55, fax (+385-20) 47 82 13, info@hotelcroatia. hr, www.hotelcroatia.hr. A short way east out of Cavtat town, the recently renovated Hotel Croatia offers modern, high standard accommodation. With wellness facilities,

a well regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little town of Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and frolics. Closed December - March 15. Q487 rooms (480 singles €201 - 244, 480 doubles €212 - 256, 3 suites €420, 2 Junior Suites €380, 2 Presidental Suites €860).

PTHAUFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh Ostrea Mali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45 55, fax (+38520) 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr.

This small hotel is well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula, including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant. Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 singles 410 - 490kn, 13 doubles 610 - 790kn, 1 Presidental Suite 930 - 1200kn). PA6LGBKW hhh Radisson Blue Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, info. dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q408 rooms (178 doubles €260 - 280, 207 suites €350 - 500, 20 Junior Suites €400, 2 Executive Suites €800, 1 Presidential Suite €2500). Prices need to be checked with the hotel.

PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

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Winter 2011/2012

21

Restaurants

22

Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38

Symbol key P E T G O R

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet

A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Animal friendly B Outside seating

Croatian Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel.

(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@ gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed December - March. (55 - 150kn). PAUGB Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin. com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 23:00. Closed January 1 - 20. (60 - 110kn). PALGB Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/ (+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.

Closed December. (50 - 140kn). PJAGB

(Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25, info@petka.hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 120kn).

PAGB Tovjerna Maro C-2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 75. Portions are not big and that is the entire point, here they promote diversity where you can pick and choose from an assortment of small meals enabling your taste buds to venture with pleasure. Call it Dalmatian tapas with meats, poultry, salads and sweets on offer, and all within your financial grasp. The ambience is comfy, warm and inviting, sample their fine array of Croatian and international wines. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. (25 - 45kn). PAB Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04 84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (80 - 120kn). PALGB

International Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel.

(+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish off with!QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed January 10 - February. (50 - 100kn). PVNBS Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, w w w. steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles.

The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed December 20 - January 20. (80 - 140kn).

PAGB Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.

He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s a nice selection of desserts.Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. April 15 - May 31 Open 07:00 - 23:30. Closed January 10 - February 10. (20 - 150kn). JB Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94/ (+385-) 095 908 37 41, restoran.magellan@yahoo.com.

The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB

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Restaurants

Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace). Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 250kn). PJAGBX Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, kucaedo@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - shish kebab.

Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 115kn). AGB Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, tavernaotto@net.hr. This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé.

But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (70 - 99kn) AGB

Konoba Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87

94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable

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roast. Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed December 24 - February. Closed December 24 - February (40 - 95kn). PAGB Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (61 83kn). PAGBX Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55.

Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of wellprepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (60 - 180kn). AGB Rozario D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 099 315 65 50, marin.vuletic@du.t-com.hr, www. konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QOpen 12:00 23:00. Closed January. (70 - 125kn). PAB

Light bites Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices.

Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (21 - 27kn). PNG

www.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011/2012

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24

Restaurants

Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-

20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. Q December April 30 Open 08:00 - 23:00. May Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. A refreshing discovery for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch: this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries and dips - yummy!QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed January 10 - March. (15 - 35kn). JA

Mediterranean Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed December - March 15. (257 - 398kn).

PJAGB Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes.

A classy place for a bite. Open from March.QOpen 12:00 24:00. (60 - 125kn). PJALGB Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik. com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed February 5 - March 15. (90 - 135kn). JB Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 46, nautika@du.t-com. hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q December, January Open 09:00 - 16:00. February, March Open 09:00 - 17:00. April, May Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 158kn). PAGB Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.

QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. January, February Open on request.

(60 - 130kn). PJAEGB Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.

Q December - March 31 Open 18:00 - 22:00. April, May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). AGB Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Dubrovnik Palace Hotel), tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/(+385-20) 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a contemporary twist, and light Mediterranean tastebud-tinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. Open from March.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 400kn). ALEGBX Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue. Open from March.QOpen 12:00 15:00, 18:30 - 22:00. (90 - 250kn). PAGBX Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/ (+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. Open from February.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 290kn). PGB

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Restaurants Out of town

Pizza

Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75

Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+38520) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. Closed February. (25 - 80kn).

PNGBS Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (27 - 70kn).

PJAGBS Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed February - March 15. (40 90kn). PAGB

44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail. com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

(70 - 200kn). PALGB Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough!

This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed December - March. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBX Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 100kn). PALGB Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/ (+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com, www. restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. Open from February 4.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PALGBX Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com. hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. December - April Open on request. (60 - 120kn). AGBX

Make friends? Just click! dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Kontonjata From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.

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Seafood Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)

32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.

It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed January 6 - 31.

(58 - 110kn). BS Pergola H-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 48/(+385-) 098 24 37 61, pergola1862@net.hr. This little restaurant has been on this spot for years. It’s sweet and intimate with attentive staff, and is well known for exceptionally fresh fish, simply prepared to let the flavours come to the fore. On the pleasant terrace, food is prepared on a charcoal grill before your very eyes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 150kn). PALG

Ice cream and cakes Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.meaculpa.hr. The excellent city coffee house, for many years a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes.

We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

PJAB Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv.Josipa 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.sugarandspicedubrovnik.com. Every once in a while most of us surrender to a craving and this small temple of sweet and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes, tarts and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is located in the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside the Stradun where you can sit on the terrace and indulge in coffee or anything your taste buds desire. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed January. A Winter 2011/2012

25

26

Restaurants Breakfast

Gastro events

Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. (34 - 56kn).

AB Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun.

Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to pršut, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.

QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed December - February 15.

(10 - 74kn). JB

21.10 2012 Friday - 01.04 2012 Sunday

Imperial Afternoon

K-3, Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blažića 2. A sweet tooth sensation coming your way! Visit the Lobby Bar of the Imperial Hotel and drool over the endless amount of cakes, strudels and other sweets available for a mere 45kuna! Hotel Chef Christopher Gauci works his magic and the price also includes coffee, tea as well as 3 hours of free parking. On Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays from 15:00 to 19:00 and wi th li ve piano performances on weekends. The winter blues suddenly seem so sweeter!

02.02 2012 Thursday

Bitter Orange Celebration Day

more desserts? www.inyourpocket.com Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00. (150 - 250kn).

PAGB YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PALB

Vegetarian Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@

nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. December Open 11:30 - 17:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Closed January, February. March Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABS

D-3, Towards the Sponza Palace. For centuries Dubrovnik gardens have been adorned by bitter orange trees to the point that their unique scent and taste have seen them enter food, medicine and aromatic circles. This charity event promotes products such as cakes, jams, marmalades and liqueurs made purely from this fruit. Just head towards the Sponza Palace to dig in!

18.03 2012 Sunday

Festival of oysters

C-2, Stradun. Legend has it that the Austrian emperors centuries ago loved to devour oysters, which reputedly had magical powers. We are, of course, talking specifically about the oysters that came from the Mali Ston Bay, a part of the Dubrovnik region where the oysters are still nurtured in the cleanest and clearest sea in the world. Oysters are ripe and most tasty in March, when the Feast of Saint Joseph is celebrated. Gastronomy experts claim that oysters should be served fresh and sprinkled with lemon juice. And that is exactly how you will be able to taste them, freshly opened and with the scent of the sea.

29.03 2012 Thursday - 01.04 2012 Sunday

Mediterranean fair of healthy food and medicinal herbs F-2, Tirena Hotel, Iva Dulčića 22, www.mediteranskisajam.com. This is a great chance to learn about traditional organic products from all over Croatia, to try out some healthy foods and learn about natural remedies. In this part of the world, even doctors are likely to tell you to buy a packet of camomile tea rather than immediately prescribing antibiotics. Funnily enough, it works and it’s much better for you. (Obviously, always consult your doctor first if you have pre-existing health problems or suspect a more serious ailment).

Wine bars D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, info@dvino.net, www.dvino.net. In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed December, January. A

Mantala A purple-coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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CAFéS Cafés In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).

Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.

PBX Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www. bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNB Blue Planet G-2, Masarykov put 3. Calling mums and dads: the Blue Planet is unadulterated heaven for you and your tribe. There are special kiddies’ toilets, a case full of picture books, a Nintendo Wii and non-stop cartoons on the TV, as well as coffee, sandwiches, cakes and salads for your devouring pleasure. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. TB Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

PAGB

Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com.

If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 24:00. JBW GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa. hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 24:00. PJAGB Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60, brigita.mrkic@gmail.com. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PBX Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20) 46 86 52/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PNGBXW Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23 32 34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. PGBX Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings, you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB

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Nightlife Bars

Clubs

Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65

Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250 25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin. com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70, clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com.

A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares?

QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PNB Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, arl@du.htnet.hr, www. arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.

QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Opening hours dependent on programme of events.

/ press 1/(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa. hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination. Spectacular. Open from March.QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAB Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. B Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34.

What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. Q Open according to weather conditions. B Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64 70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed to kill. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PB Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBXW Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Has one computer which is free to use.

Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PX SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Administering a much-needed dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town, this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent choice of upscale pub fodder in the shape of salads, burgers and steaks. Blending slate grey, soothing whites and moodenhancing purples, the interior is smart and slinky without being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though, it’s probably time you were in bed. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.

PAEBW

Casinos Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@ major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. EK Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Lounge bars Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer

heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere.

Definitel y wor th a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

PABX

Pubs Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,

www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

PJENBX Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. The distinctive aroma, the big wooden bar and the wall decorations all announce one thing: this is an Irish pub. There are three big screens where you can watch football, rugby and cricket: a list to the left of the entrance door lets you know what’s on. Apart from Guinness, Kilkenny and Irish coffee, there’s a great selection of breakfasts served from 9:00 to 11:30 in summer. Out of season, you can pick up a light lunch here from 10:00 to 15:00.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JB Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@ du.t-com.hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PABX

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What to see

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What to see

Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in the Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site, has spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although the city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings were devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and were rebuilt resulting in the rather harmonious style you see today. The architects of Dubrovnik included the best of the Croatian masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also responsible for the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire town of Pag) in combination with masters from Venice, Dubrovnik’s main rival and trading partner. Architectural beauty is perhaps a cause of a deep immersion in the arts that manifests itself in galleries and festivals.

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)

D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 18:00. Q November - March 31 Open 09:00 - 17:00. April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 20kn.

Stradun, Placa B/C-2, . When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Phil Newman unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show.

A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. No admission.

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What to see St Blaise How close St Blaise is to the people of Dubrovnik is shown by the number of times he appears in reliefs and sculptures in the city, and by the celebrations on his feast day, February 3, when a grand procession through town takes place, followed by great merriment. It is thought he was Sandrine Quillien adopted as the city’s saint protector in 971 after appearing in a vision warning of an attack by the Venetians.

St Blaise came from Armenia, he was a healer, and legend has it that sick animals came to him but would never disturb his prayers. He was persecuted as a Christian, and in prison still practised medicine, saving a child from choking on a fishbone.

That’s why he is the patron saint of ailments of the throat, and on his feast day peoples’ throats are still blessed with two entwined candles. He was thrown in a lake, and stood on the water waiting for his persecutors to come out to him – they drowned. When he came back to dry land, his flesh was torn with wool combs and he was beheaded.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) , www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost

two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot.

The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.

From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q December March 31 Open 09:00 - 15:00. April - May 31 09:00 - 18:30.

Admission 30 - 70kn.

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The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32

14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.hr.

The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working.

The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height.

The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. Q November 3 - March 21 Open 09:00 - 16:00. March 22 - November 2 Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 20 - 40kn.

Museums Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac)

Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, muzej@kuca-bukovac.hr, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian painters, in the setting of his charming Cavtat home. Part of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young artists, offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac.

The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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What to see

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”

is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Tue. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04.

Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.

QDecember - March 21 Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. March 22 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-

20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering documentation on contemporary history since World War Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.

The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)

B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41, arheoloski.muzej@dumus.hr. The Archeological museum currently does not have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)

B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Phil Newman performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,

the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain.

The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May 1 - 31 Open 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 20kn.

Churches Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.

That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.

Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)

B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Q Open on request and by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.

The Sivi soko viewpoint Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and go go go! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

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What to see

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What to see

Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,

tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive collection should head for the museum on the second floor of the building next door. Q Church: December - Easter Open 08:00 - 17:30, Easter - May 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Museum: December - April 30 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May 1 - 31 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Church Admission free. Museum Admission 5 - 10kn.

St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00.

Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.

St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)

C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Anna Nozdracheva interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)

D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.

Dubrovnik Cable Car Dubrovnik Cable Car , tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, w w w. dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street . Ticket sales at the lower cable car station in town (opposite the fire station), from Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or from Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro. Adults 50 80kn, Children 25 - 40kn. December - January 31. Open 09:00 - 16:00. February - March 31. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

April - May 31. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Lower station: Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www. dubrovnikcablecar.com.Q December - January 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00. February - March 31 Open 09:00 17:00. April - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. 25 - 80kn.

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What to see The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana,

tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96.

The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption

by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. Q December Easter Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 12:00.

Easter - November 30 Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.

Landmarks Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3,

This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers.

The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.

Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska

Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.

In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.

The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.

Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.

Revelin Fortress Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research and foundry workers present how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any publicconstruction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. Q Admission to all the exhibits aforementioned costs 20kn which includes access to the fortress terrace.

Đurovića Cave - Skycellar Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi So your plane lands and minutes later you find yourself in a cave! Yes, it is true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport, there is a cave that stretches 200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic.

As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region as well as genuine souvenirs. Q October - February 28 Open by prior arrangement. March - September 30 Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 50kn.

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What to see The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)

D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green color is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South

of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.

The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3, Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.

The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5, Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.

The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.

The Siege of Dubrovnik 26 June 1991 Croatia declares its independence from Yugoslavia.

August 1991 A low-intensity conflict between Croats and Serbs quickly escalates into all-out war. Dubrovnik, with its largely Croatian population and minor strategic importance, is only lightly defended.

1 October 1991 Serbian military planners decide that an attack on Dubrovnik will weaken Croatian morale. The JNA (Yugoslav Peoples’ Army), supported by volunteers from Serbia, Eastern Herzegovina and Montenegro, begins its assault.

5 October 1991 The JNA captures the resort of Slano north of Dubrovnik, cutting the city off from the rest of Croatia. Over 50,000 civilians and refugees are trapped inside the city.

22 October 1991 The holiday resorts of Cavtat, Mlini and Kupari are overrun by the JNA. 23 October 1991 Dubrovnik’s Old Town suffers its first major artillery bombardment.

25 October 1991 The JNA and its allies take the high ground overlooking the city. Defenders fall back on Fort Imperial, the Napoleonic-era strongpoint at the summit of Mt Srd. 6 December 1991 Dubrovnik is subjected to the siege’s most intensive day of shelling. A major enemy assault on Fort Imperial is thrown back following stiff resistance.

January 1992 A UN-sponsored cease-fire comes into effect.

July 1992 A month-long operation led by Croatian General Janko Bobetko wins back control of the coastal highway, ending the land blockade of the city.

20 October 1992 Croatian troops liberate Cavtat.

August 1995 Hostilities come to an end after Croatian victories in central Croatia.

The aftermath According to current Croatian statistics, the attack on Dubrovnik cost the lives of 193 defenders and just over 100 civilians. In the territories occupied by enemy forces, hotels and private houses were systematically ransacked. In Dubrovnik’s Old Town, a total of 824 buildings (68% of the total) had taken a hit of one kind or another. Renovation and repair was a long and painstaking business, as the shell-scarred masonry and roof tiles of the Old Town could only be replaced with carefully-sourced equivalents.

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Interactive Adventure & Travel

Cooking

ATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)

Hilton’s School of Cooking K-3, Marijana Blažića 2, (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik) tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Love your cooking! Then look no further and join likeminded food admirers who are taken through a two day course (once a month) that delves into the serving of the table, decorating food, the content of food, decanting wine and that is just the beginning. Hotel Chef Christopher Gauci takes you on a ride that will tickle your taste buds.QThe cost of the course is 450kuna per person and includes a two day cooking course, cook book, final dinner with 4 to 5 courses and quality wine, as well as free parking.

098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr.

Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler (All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on procedures and then the true adventure begins! Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 500 - 600kuna per person.

Q Open by prior arrangement.

Climbing - Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www. prevlaka.hr. This park offers loads for active souls - choose between biking, canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Cycling For those seeking more of an active holiday and are keen on seeing more than the city itself, why not choose from the 60km of cycling roads and tracks that are available throughout the Konavle area. Bicycles can be hired at tourist agencies (look in our Getting Around section) where you can also get detailed instructions and road maps. In case you are already near Konavle itself, contact the Konavle Tourist Association for more information. Theme routes: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi (starting point Cavtat - Bus Station)/ Cavtat-Zvekovica-Miljasi (starting point Cavtat - Bus Station)/ Čilipi-Gruda-Ljuta-Pridvorje (starting point Čilipi Main square).

Excursions on the Neretva boats Step back in time as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta of the Neretva River. You will pass through areas where the ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to mention the pirates of this region that were known to attack their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional gastronomic specialties including ‘Neretva Brudet’, a type of stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland, you can visit the Ornithological Collection in Metković and the archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information, please contact: Restaurant Lopoč, tel. (+385-20) 69 30 34, www.restaurant-lopoc.com; Restaurant Adria, tel. (+385-) 099 388 99 99; Konoba Narona, tel. (+385-) 098 32 37 49.

Hiking Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors who prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals. For more information, contact the Konavle Tourist Association.

Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/The “Ronald Brown” Path Horse riding - Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www. kojankoral.hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions are provided. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@ gmail.com. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Workshops E a s t e r E a s t e r e g gs a r e

decorated with delicate motifs in beeswax, coloured with onion skin or pine (a process locally known as “penganje”). The result was an ornament to be given as a mark of love, friendship and devotion.

On Palm Sunday people carr y olive branches or intricately woven ornaments made from palms leaves. You can learn how to make these decorations yourself at the Easter workshops.

Workshops are held one week before Easter.

Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Q Workshops are free.

Silk If you are in town at the end of May, discover the process of growing silk with a special presentation of the pilling of silk yarns out from a cocoon. Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, www.desa-dubrovnik. hr. AR Atelier, Gruda 49, Gruda - Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 13 55, 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com Weaving Partake in one tradition that is ever so prevalent here. Learn how to make weaved products with customary patterns. Workshops are free and throughout the year, Monday to Friday.

Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45.

Xmas Get into the spirit of Christmas and learn about the local customs of the Holy Season between December 12 and 16. Whilst there, get practical and learn how to make Christmas jewellery or wreaths, dabble in making delicacies and much more.

Info: Deša L-2, Frane Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Q Workshops are free.

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Mail & Phones Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 41 26 74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 12 65. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 27.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Express mail City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/ (+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www.cityex. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Public telephone You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Internet places

Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25, netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PNB Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74, ravosium@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. 30kn/hour.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Hugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/

(+385-) 091 211 11 66. Internet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.

SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800 1550, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta), tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr. Q Open

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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Getting around Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 10kn from news kiosks (12kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 17kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Taxi The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70 or 0800 14 41 otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour for waiting.

Train Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you can take the sleeper.

Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading their car on a night train at 22:55 (149.04kn - 213.04kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach.

A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.

Long distance coaches Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 21:30.

Car rental Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr, www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314 30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

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Getting around Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+38520) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@ subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/ (+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www. hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Parking Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multistorey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 360kn/day depending which zone you’re in and the season.

Text message parking . Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

Airport Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can cost as little as 340kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations.

Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is 2kuna per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a 300kn payment is required).

www.inyourpocket.com Bike rental Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47

97 86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz. Q March - April 30 Open 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/ hour, 70kn/day. A

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Airline offices Croatia Airlines Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 32 32, dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A

Ferry G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat sails. Q 20 - 50kn per person.

Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 06:30 - 07:00, 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30, 17:30 - 18:30. One way ticket is 19kn per person.

Port authority Dubrovnik Port Authority H-1, Obala pape Ivana

Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 33, padubrovnik@ portdubrovnik.hr, www.portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Towed away If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year it’s open 24 hours and from December till February from 07:00 - 23:00. The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of 500kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

Sanitat Dubrovnik, Lazareti bb, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16, 42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www. sanitatdubrovnik.hr

Transfers Avantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41

74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi. com, www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best!

Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events, everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service!

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Travel Agencies Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00,

elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver. hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers...

QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lux travel Stjepana Radića 86, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 38/(+385-) 099 980 90 17, tanja@luxtravel.hr, www.luxtravel.hr. Hiking, religious city tour, tailored tours...

Q Open by prior arrangement.

Road help 1987 dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Art galleries AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www. antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/ (+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Dubrovnik Contemporary C-2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 31, dubrovnik.contemporary@gmail. com, www.dubrovnikcontemporary.com. Modern and authentic imprints of works made by the artist Selma Hafizović. Oh… and fans of abstract art, to put it simply, we warmly recommend. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00. A Homa Gallery C-2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73. A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration. Open from March. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. N Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.

QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 484 49 46/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. April - May 31 Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic. art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A

Croatian Designer Ruža Hodak

Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr.

Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu.

Closed December 24 - January 7. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. A

English books & newspapers Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44, www. algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers, maps in many languages. Q Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706 13 26.

Lots of newspapers and magazines in different languages.

QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.

Souvenirs

Croatian Designer Anita Štulec

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo. com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.

Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q December - February 29 Open 09:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. March - May 31 Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. Closed January. N Winter 2011/2012

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Shopping Ivo Biočina - decorative sculptors workshop D-2,

Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!

Closed January. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/ (+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www.medusa. hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants.

Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. March - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3, (Rector’s Palace) tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. A Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/ (+385-) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Closed February. Q Open 09:30 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. Closed February. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. April, May Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Waxing lyrical, tel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@ vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com. Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic

wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.

Accessories Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. Q December Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. January - March 31 Open 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. April Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A

Cosmetics Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-1) 362 60 87, www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping centre at Lapad. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20)

32 20 92, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www. franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. March Open 08:00 - 20:00. May Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www. kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A Oleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A

Designer Clothing Croatian Designers Room C-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-

Art Go’den

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

20) 41 22 99. Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.

Closed December - February 29.Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Dubrovnik, Gundulićeva poljana 1, Zagreb, Gundulićeva 19 / Masarykova 17. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Winter 2011/2012

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Shopping stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just looking through the window. Q December - February 29 Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. March - May 31 Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss either way. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.

XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, xenia-design@ck.t-com.hr, www.xenia-design.hr.

Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality. Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat. Q December, May Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. January - April 30 Open Mon, Wen, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

Jewellery Atelier Secret C-2, Kunićeva 2. The jewelry from this place has ‘authentic’ written all over it. The wide range of unique necklaces, bracelets and earrings are all locally made and there is just about something for everyone. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 50/ (+385-) 098 45 18 40. Experience the exclusive jewellery designs of Max Škledar whose unique works can be found in prestigious Beverly Hill boutiques not to mention numerous other galleries across the world. Škledar is a designer who tries to preserve the original shape of his materials with his craftsmanship, thus maintaining their original beauty. It’s contemporary, it’s dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit.

Open from March 31. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Antiques Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50. A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Closed February, March. A

Duty Free Shop Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Nautical supplies

Davor Šuk

Lalizas Marina Na skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel. (+385-20) 45 40 73, penul@penul.hr. Q Open 08:00 -

16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. February - May 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed. Sun. A Top Marine I-2, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department store, tel. (+385-20) 35 70 17, bozo.svetac@du.t-com. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

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BALENCIAGA, LANVIN, AZZEDINE ALAร A, YVES SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, 0$,621 0$57,1 0$5*,(/$ 67(//$ 0&&$571(< &ะด/,1( &+/2ะด %85%(55< 3525680 RICK OWENS, MIU MIU, MARNI, JIL SANDER, VIONNET, ALEXANDER WANG, ACNE, FALIERO 6$57, 0$,621 0,&+(/ 720 %,116 (5,&.621 %($021 1$7$/,$ %5,//, *,86(33( =$1277, '(6,*1 1,&+2/$6 .,5.:22' *,$19,72 5266, %85$. 8<$1 3285 0$5,$ LINDA FARROW LUXE, NOIS, RED LINE, STEIDL, TASCHEN, FLAMMARION, SKIRA Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011/2012

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Business directory

Banks & Exchanges Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26,

tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+38520) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 32 54 80. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20 12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel.

062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20) 72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Volksbank I-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Business Connections American College of Managemet and Technology

J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr.

Q Open by arrangement.

Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57.

Q Open by prior arrangement.

The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+38520) 35 61 41, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. Q Open Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.

UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97, honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.

Real estate Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.

(+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnikproperties.info. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun.

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Call the experts Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65

15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art, hair cuts, body painting. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+38520) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com.

Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com.

Hair studio. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

Culture Centres Art Workshop Lazareti D-4, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-

20) 32 46 33/(+385-) 091 186 12 50, arl@du.t-com.hr, www.arl.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@caas. unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. QOpen Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 098 964 49 20, 099 501 63 02. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@ dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.

Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon request. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg) and Drop-off service - 100kn (wash, dry, fold). QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18.

Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Open Tue, Thu, Sat 07:00 14:00 and by request. N

Hospital

Luka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 86 40, dpa.gruz@portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Pets Bobanović I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. (+385-20)

35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.

Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. From February they will be at a new location - Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .

Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11.

QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Police station Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-

20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+38520) 44 37 77/(+385-20) 44 70 00, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36 66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20) 431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.

Emergency number 112

Making friends

Emergency number 112 . In case of emergency you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the emergency services as below: Police 192 Fire department 93 Ambulance 94 Coast guard 9155

The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle

w w w.dubr ovnikf or eigncir cle.com. A grea t l o cal organisation that works on giving back to the community.

Various social activities and gatherings are held and new comers to the city are particularly made welcome with the aim of building networks, establishing friendships and more.

So come along!

Marinas ACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+385-

20) 45 50 20, m.dubrovnik@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club. hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. A ACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 16 61, m.korcula@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 144 berths, 16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic.

Staff speak foreign languages. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. A

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Flower fair April 2012 Pick up a posy of flowers at cut prices and enjoy the sights and scents of colourful blooms and arrangements.

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Dubravka Žaja

Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs.

It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

All in all, it’s well worth a few day’s stay and a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.

But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Tourist information

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Korčula City Museum Trg Sv.

Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gmkorcula@du.t-com.hr Q Open 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Korčula Tourist Board Obala dr.

Franje Tuđmana 4, www.visitkorcula. net. Q December - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Frank Therond

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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dubrovnik neretva county Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation with a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Tourist information Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel.

(+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59 90 07, www.lastovo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, recreational sports, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey) because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).

The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.

The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century BC to the 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.

The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on the western end of the island for about another 300 years, until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ, between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and arrows, was discovered in 1938.

In 1151, Prince Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church and grand monastery of the Benedictines (1177-1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.

Mljet

Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.

Sounds of Mljet

Getting There and Around

A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence.

Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be. A ferry connects the island with the Pelješac Peninsula.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37 km long making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers

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Transportation to the island is provided by Jadrolinija ferry from Pelješac. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There

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are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north. Other harbours include Okuklje, Luka Prožura, Sobra, Kozarica and Pomena (which has daily connections to Dubrovnik. Watch out for reefs and shallow water. At Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path which circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind up and over the hills. It’s OK to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted.

The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers, steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used for farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out many of the deciduous forests.

Tickets to the park cost 40 - 90 kn and during the winter you should call prior coming for the ferry to be organised to St Mary Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary

(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a time, the monastery was the island’s governmental centre.

Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.

In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until 1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the church’s inauguration.

The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a restaurant in the monastery cellars (during summer), the buildings are unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.

Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications – one tower is 20m high -built between the 2nd and the 5th centuries. Second in size

Iryna Khotenko

Adrien Therond

What to See National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet)

Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, np-mljet@ np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.

Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.

Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

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MLJET

Maslinovac

Moračnik

Glavat

Hr Kula

Tajnik

Pomeštak

Pomena

Kozarica Polje Slatina Svinjac

Polače

Crna seka

Hr Šij

Goveđari

V. Jezero

Dugo polje

Soline

Žanjevac Sv. Mihajlo

Zasad

Podvršje

olje ko p

ars

Rop

Ropa

Lokve

Dubovca

Uzdolačje

Crkvište

Hripe

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BLATO Spilja Blatina Blatsko polje

Pristanište

Propadi

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

k a

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Crna seka

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M l j e t s k i

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dubrovnik neretva county St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George, St Blaise, St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in the 11th Century.

You can reach the church, and neighbouring St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town. When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey Renaissance manor of the Ragusan governor of the island. Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius, the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the sotnica, a Renaissanceera government building in whose courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave, come back

Frank Therond to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: the road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas west of the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey, meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.

A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views over the lakes and the Adriatic.

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick alpine woodlands and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities.

Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).

Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary.

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of churches: n a l

Hr. Mrkjente

Zakršć

e

račevac

Lokve

Sobra

ovac Zabriježe Ocinje

Sršenovići Zadublje Sv. Andrija Pajac Hajdići Andričević B a b i n o P o l j e Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Vlaho Karaula Odisejeva spilja Sv. Ivan

Zagla

vci

Sv. Trojstvo

Prožura Sv. Roko

Prožurski Porat Prapatni

Okuklje

Goveđak

Veja njiva Lisovac

Grubanje G l o

govac

Struje

Sv. Antun

Djedovac

Sv. Nikola

Zaplatačje Polje Maranovići Vinogradi Na Izvan Kosmač

Brnjestrovac

Seka od Lukovca Lukovac

Prapatna Sv. Ilija Sv. Vid Gospa

M. Golić ova U . B en Hr

Korita

Podstrane Ža

ra Pod Kućice

V. Školj M. Školj

Za brijeg Spilja Profundica

Prečki školj

Brak Duboka

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dubrovnik neretva county another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel.

Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who – a bit like yourself – were looking for relaxing getaway.

Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a stable and storage.

The Church of St Martin and village graveyard are situated on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island road and Pelješac Channel on the other. A plaque on the 14th Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island.

After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998 renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass in the church.

The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston from 1635 to 1652.

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš

family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements.

In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.

A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

Tourist information

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Tourist Board Mljet, Sobra bb tel.

74 60 25, fax 74 60 25, tz-mljet@ du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra office (around the side of the café at the ferry pier).QDecember - March 31 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače), tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. December - March 31 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Did you know...?

All of the streets in Korčula’s Old Town have steps – except one, which is called “The Street of Thoughts” as you can stroll along it without worrying about tripping over!

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dubrovnik neretva county The Elafiti islands Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first

two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive.

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops.

Cavtat Ancient Epidaurum The approach to this little gem

of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn), where

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one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855 - 1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings (during summer) you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.

The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.

Tourist information

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Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

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Eugen Miljan - Konavle, Ljuta

Agritourism Agroturizam Laptalo Gromača 56, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro. hr. Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home-made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).QOpen by prior arrangement. IK Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 098 34 54 59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.com. Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too… Q Open by prior arrangement. (50 - 110kn). PALB

Neretva Neretva river delta - Orange groves and water life

If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.

Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centred around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant at Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Tourist information Tourist Inf ormation Centr e of Metković Tourist Board Stjepana

Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 10 20, www.neretva.info. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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dubrovnik neretva county Pelješac Peninsula Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously

connected wi th the mainland that i t has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).

It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On

Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

Tourist information Or ebić Tourist Boar d Zrinsko

Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, tz-orebic@tz-orebic.hr, www. tz-orebic.com. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www. ston.hr. QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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The Walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Peljesac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

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Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe.

Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further. As there is no door preventing access to the walls, you can visit them at any time. Occasionally you might come across someone selling tickets, which cost 20 - 30kn, while kids under 18 go free.

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Trsteno Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your nerves and

even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centrepiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar.

More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

Tourist information Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board

Šetalište dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385- 20) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr., www. dubrovnik-riviera.hrQ Open 08:00 -15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Župa dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right

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dubrovnik neretva county The folk tradition

The people of Dubrovnik and the surrounding regions proudly maintain their folk tradition, which you can still see at festivals, folklore performances, and processions on feast days; in museums and sometimes even on your waiter in rural restaurants. Every region, and in some cases every settlement had its own style of folk attire, which often showed the social status of the wearer. So, for example, in Konavle, where the tradition is perhaps strongest to this day, unmarried girls wore red pillbox hats decorated with gold braid, while married women wore stiffly starched headscarves shaped like horns, to scare their menfolk into submission, we presume.

The costumes, mainly in white, red and black fabrics, were decorated with embroidery, particularly on decorative fabric breastplates with gold silk tassels on women, and waistcoats and cummerbunds on men. Silk was produced and coloured at home. On special occasions, people wore fine velvets and silks richly embroidered with gold thread, a style influenced by Dubrovnik’s excellent trading links with the nearby Ottoman Empire. Luxurious clothes indicated the wealth of the owner, but rich folk lent fine clothes to poorer neighbours to ensure a good celebration.

Jewellery has for centuries been a way for women in particular to invest their wealth. Dubrovnik at its zenith, had many goldsmiths and silversmiths who, in addition to adorning the city’s churches and palaces also made jewellery, an integral part of folk costume. You can still buy traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, large hoops or drop earrings adorned with baubles. If you’d like to take home an original Dubrovnik souvenir, you can also find tiny backstreet workshops where women produce tablecloths, bags, purses, pictures, slippers and more embellished with traditional embroidery.

On your travels around the region, you can see many more facets of folk culture. If you’re on Korčula island, you may meet a procession of drummers in medieval costume on their way to a performance of the traditional Moreška sword dance (performed across the region in high summer). And if you’re lucky enough to be on distant Lastovo in the two days before Ash Wednesday, you’ll see the Poklad festival, eagerly awaited every year by the islanders, and a riot of fun, celebrating the salvation of the island from attack by Catalan pirates in 1483. The men dress in scarlet traditional costumes with embroidered sashes and hats decked with more flowers than Ladies Day at Ascot – a truly unique experience!

Linđo The folk tradition is very much connected with music and dance. During the Dubrovnik Summer Festival you will surely have the chance to see Linđo, Dubrovnik’s foremost folk troupe, going strong since 1964. The region’s folk music is centred around a one-stringed instrument called a Ljerica. Legend has it that one Niko Lale was an especially talented player even though one of his fingers was broken. One day, he had enough of working in the fields and screamed “No more farming for me!” – oddly, in perfect English. From then on he was a full time party animal and became known as Linđo.

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Street register A. Barca H-2,3 A. Bošković J-2,3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H-2/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2,3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

59 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Street register Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put Metohijska

H,I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G,H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F, G-3 I-1

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska Od Batale Od borova

C-2 B/C-1 H,I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B,C-3 C-3 H,I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2 H-2 H-2

Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani

J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1,2/J-2 I,J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C,B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3 K-3 G-2 K-2

P. Čingrije I-3 P. Krešimira IV L-2 P. Preradovića H-2 Padre Perice I-1 Palmotićeva C-2 Paska Baburice H-2 Pećarica C-3 Peline C-1 Pelješka K-2 Pera Bakića J-2 Petilovrijenci C-2 Petra Svačića G-2 Pile J,K-3 Pionirska H-1 Placa C,D-2 Placa – Stradun C-2 Platska J-3 Ploče L-2 Plovani skalini C-1 Pobijana D-4 Pobreška H-1 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4 Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1

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Street register Pomorski muzej Porat Porporela Posat Postranjska Pred Dvorom Prelazna Pridvorska Prijeko Primorska Privežna Puljizeva Put od Bosanke Restićeva Revelin Riječka Ribarnica Roka Mišetića S.S. Kranjčevića Savska Sinjska Slanska Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska

E-4 E-3 E-3,4 E-2 I-2 D-3 B-3 J-2 B-2,3/C-2 G-2 J-2 B-3 L-2 D-4 E-1 G-1 D-2 H-3 I-2 G-3 I-2 G-2 I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2

Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije Sv.Dominika Sv. Josipa Sv.Nikole

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K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2/K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3 D-2 B-3 H-1

Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3,4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2

Velebitska Velika Petka Vetranićeva Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska Zagrebačka Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarićeva Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zvijezdićeva Željezničarska Žudioska Žuljanska Župska

61 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J,K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2,3 B-3,4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

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Index Africa 26 Apartments Toni 21 Arch Pub 27 Arsenal 27 Baracuda 25 Bellevue 17 Berkeley 19 Biker’s Café 26 Bistro Dubrava 22 Blidinje 23 Bota Šare 24 Buffet Škola 24 Bukovac House 30 Buža 27 Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua 23 Capitano 27 Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent

31 Church of St Saviour 32 Croatia 20 Culto 27 Dolce vita 26 Dominican Monastery 28 Domino Steak House 23 Dubravka 22 Dubrovnik Natural History Museum 30 Dubrovnik Palace 17 Dubrovnik Youth Hostel 18 Ethnographic Museum Rupe 31 Excelsior 17 Festival 26 Fresh Sheets 18 Fuego 27 Galerie 26

Galeta Golden Sun Casino GradsKavana Grand Villa Argentina Gundulić Square Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik Importanne Resort Indijan Kamenice Kapetanova kuća Katie O’Connell’s Irish Pub Kazbek King Richard’s Pub Klas Komin Kompas Konavoski dvori Konavoski komin Korčula Lapad Laura Lazareti Lero Leut Living Room Lokanda Peskarija Maestoso Maritime Museum Mea Culpa Mimoza Modern History Museum More Niko Nishta None Nina Oliva

22 27 26 17 33 18 18 20 25 24 27 18 27 22 22 19 24 25 20 19 26 27 19 25 26 23 22 31 25 22 31 18 24 25 27 25

Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small 33 Orhan 22 Orlando’s Column 33 Ostrea 21 Pergola 25 Petka 19 Pjat 25 Porto 26 Proto 25 Radisson Blue Resort & Spa 21 Renaissance 24 Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik 18 Rozarij 23 Rozario Church and Confraternity 32 Rusica 22 Rustico 24 Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons 32 Sesame 24 SkyBar 27 St Ignatius’ Church 32 St Katherine’s Convent 32 St Nicholas’ Church 32 St Sebastian’s Church 32 Stari grad 20 Stradun, Placa 28 Tabak 24 Taj Mahal 23 Talir 26 Taverna Nostromo 22 The Archeological Museum 31 The Birthplace of Marin Držić 31 The Cathedral 33 The Church of St Blaise 28

The City Belltower 33 The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre 33 The City Harbour 34 The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates 29 The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy 30 The Lazaret 34 The Pucić Palace 18 The Rector’s Palace 30 The Synagogue and Jewish Museum 31 Tovjerna Maro 22 Vapor 24 Vila Koruna 21 Vila Micika 21 Villa Neretva 25 Villa Vilina 20 Villas Koločep 20 Wanda 24 YC Orsan 25 Zlatno zrno 22 Zoe 23 Zure 25

Krešimir Žanetić, Adriatic Photo Service

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