Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No15

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Spring 2015

Experience Spring whilst in the pearl of the Adriatic!

Events galore, read for more…

Local flavours to savour

N°15 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

A foodie goodie guide of fests, wining and dining

Contents

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Foreword

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6

The editor’s choice on what not to miss this Spring

Arrival & Getting Around

7

Lost? Help is at hand

City Basics 10 Things you need to know

Culture & Events

12

You won’t be bored

Dubrovnik Pulse

16

Insider tips

Restaurants 18 From pork knuckle to tofu burgers

Local Flavour

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Meet Pelješac wines

Coffee & Cakes

Ahhh! When the weather gets hot, the water fountains are jackpot!

30

Treat yourself

Nightlife

31

When you just gotta boogie

Sightseeing

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All the sights you shouldn’t miss

Dubrovnik Surroundings 42 Day trips galore

Leisure

54

The natural way

Shopping

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Delicatessen and souvenirs

Hotels

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The place to rest your weary head

Directory

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The most essential support

Maps & Index

There’s nothing fishy about this! Taken straight from the Adriatic, you’re bound to taste some of the finest seafood around. Garlic prawns with rice and parsley is a savoured favourite.

Dubrovnik county map City Centre Map Street Register City Map

63 64 65 66

Foreword Dubrovnik needs no introduction. Over the past number of years it has been home to HBO’s Game of Thrones, as well as Tom Fontana’s series “Borgia”. These, however, barely scratch the surface, and the sheer brilliance, of the region once known to all as the Republic of Ragusa. Today Dubrovnik is one of the world’s top ten wedding destinations, with an abundance of breathtaking vistas, public gardens, coastline walks, etc. Of course, with such popularity you can find yourself paying high prices for your glass of wine, and at the same time jostling for a set at an alreadyovercrowded cafe on Stradun. So consider visiting in spring, when the cruise ships have yet to arrive... Off season doesn’t mean that there’s nothing to do; on the contrary. During the Easter period you will be able to witness a wide variety of customs and traditions and enjoy a much more relaxed vacation; and a more informed one at that. There’s more to Dubrovnik than the city, and the Pelješac peninsula - on which it’s situated - is a veritable cornucopia of experiences.

Here you can sample the wines of the region (and it won’t be long before they’re one of Croatia’s best known exports), and savour some of the oysters from Mali Ston. The following pages will contain as many activities, dishes, beverages, and the like, as we could possibly list. We hope that you will find the time to create for yourself a most memorable holiday.

Join the conversation with IYP

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 3 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Assistant Eli Gajinov Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Petar Mudnić Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Boris Kačan Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout April and May. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Arrival & Getting Around

Arriving by boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V Line Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG-1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www. gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, ag.dubrovnik@jadrolinija. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 22:00, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 19:00 - 20:00. May 15 - 31 Open 08:00 16:30, 19:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 19:00 - 20:00. June 1 - 13 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 09:30, 18:30 - 20:30.

Arriving by bus The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

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Arrival & Getting Around Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.

Arriving by car For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.

When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!

Arriving by plane The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.

Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceed-

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ing to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

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Arrival & Getting Around Tourist Information Centres The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik.

All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

Gruž QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+38520) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From May 16 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Lapad QH-2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+38520) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From May 16 Open 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Lopud QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured.lopud@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik. hr. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Closed Fri. Pile QC-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured. pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Šipan QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, ured.sipan@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik. hr. From June Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Closed Tue.

Taxi The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 020 33 22 22, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad.

No night supplements, 27kn base rate, 9kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 150kn per hour for waiting.

During your stay in Dubrovnik, you can download the free app inTAXI on your Android or iPhone for transportation services.

Car rental Avis - Budget QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, dubrovnik.apt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. A

Dollar&Thrifty QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www. carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz. hr, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A

Parking Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

Travel agencies Elite Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon.QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. A Gulliver travel Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... Also at G-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23. April - October 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www. gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Korkyra QE-1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, info@korkyradubrovnik.com, www.korkyra-dubrovnik.com. From April 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 20:00. June - September Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Paraiso Mediterraneo From excursions to tours and accommodation, transfers to car rentals and yacht services, assistance and local guides in your native language.Qtel. (+385-1) 799 98 40, info@ paraisomediterraneo.com, www.paraisomediterraneo. com. A

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Vivado Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N

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City Basics Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking

Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

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Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw

National Holidays January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 5 Easter April 6 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 4 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

City Basics Culture & Events a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

Toilets There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

Visas Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water

Photo by Boris Kačan

QR Code This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket. com/croatia/dubrovnik for Dubrovnik In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

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Culture & Events

Čilipi folklor – TZ Konavle Archives

Exhibitions JANUARY 2013 - DECEMBER 2015 Fish of the Dubrovnik region This extraordinary exhibition presents around 70 fish species found in the Dubrovnik area not to mention endangered species presented in 3D models. A didactic educational playground mimicking fish movements is fun and interactive for the kiddies and besides the permanent artefacts from the old museum’s collection, recent collections will also be showcased.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, www.pmd.hr.

FEBRUARY 2014 - DECEMBER 2015 The Hum of the Sea Who sells sea shells by the seashore! Established way back at the beginning of the 19th century, the collection of molluscs at the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum is vast indeed. See a historical overview of the various molluscs showcased with a special emphasis on species found in the Adriatic Sea and shore.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, www.pmd.hr.

MARCH 2014 - DECEMBER 2015 In Honour of the City This year marks the 5th anniversary since the reopening of the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum. Of high regard is a tribute to two of the city’s historical stalwarts; Antun Drobac, to whom the Museo Patrio was founded and who contributed greatly to the economic development of the city. And to Baldo Kosić, who established the first natural collection of fish, amphibians, birds, reptiles and mammals from the Dubrovnik area.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

DECEMBER 2014 - JULY 2015 Carnival and Masks from the Dubrovnik Area See an extensive overview of carnival and masquerade traditions from Dubrovnik and its surrounding towns, such as Cavtat, Konavle, Pelješac and the islands of Lastovo and Mljet. Visitors can expect a thorough historical, cultural and geographical insight of old carnival customs and costumes dating back from medieval times until the present day.QB-3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr.

JANUARY - NOVEMBER The Freshwater Turtle Native solely to the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, the pond turtle (Emys orbicularis) and the river turtle (Mauremys rivulata) are the only types of freshwater turtles to be found in Croatia. This exhibition will showcase the living conditions of these extraordinary yet almost extinct species, whilst also informing visitors on how to raise public awareness in protecting them.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

10.04 Friday - 31.05 Sunday Quotes In her first solo exhibition, Anabel Zanze, who is a local artist, painter and graphic artist, will showcase 130 paintings as part of her range of series’ which examine simple connections within the space of paintings. Her artistic approach is contemporary denoting modern expression yet she is known to use traditional techniques which combine and synthesise.QL-2, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

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Culture & Events 15.04 Wednesday - 24.05 Sunday Cvijeto Job An exhibition by the Dubrovnik-born artist Cvijeto Benvenuto Job where he presents a selection of his artworks dating between to the 1950s and 1960s which come from his family art collection and the Dubrovnik State Archives!

His artistic heritage contains hundreds of drawings, whilst the opus entitled Human Gallery consists of small ketches which belong to different batches that were created as a series of minimalist images.QD-3, The Dulčić Masle Pulitika Gallery & Pulitika Attelier, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

29.05 Friday - 28.06 Sunday Josip Lalić Presenting works almost forgotten by the Dubrovnik artist Josip Lalić through an array of his paintings which were created in the smaller format, yet were diverse in motif and artistic style (Dalmatian landscapes, cityscapes and portraits). His early works resembled academic realism and impressionism, as influenced by his stay in Paris, Rome and Dubrovnik.QD-3, The Dulčić Masle Pulitika Gallery & Pulitika Attelier, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www. ugdubrovnik.hr.

04.06 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday Contemporary Japanese Prints An extraordinary selection of 30 outstanding representatives of Japanese contemporary graphic art including Amano Jnji, Arichi Yoshito and Isomi Teruo! All the artworks displayed combine ancient and traditional Japanese techniques depicting prevalent customs and nature on its own using their very own form and style.QL-2, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

Revelin Fortress Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed.

Special events 10.04 Friday - 12.04 Sunday Aklapela Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic acapella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!Qwww.aklapela.hr.

Ana u Gradu Archives

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15.06 Monday - 05.09 Saturday Park Orsula Music Festival After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various Croatian and international musical performers throughout the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats and is set on a 200 metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus.Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

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Culture & Events Božidar Gjukić - War Photography 1991-1992 ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

18.06 Thursday - 21.06 Sunday Le Petit Festival du Theatre Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL-2, Lazareti, www.lepetitfestival.com.

20.06 Saturday - 04.07 Saturday Midsummer scene The English production of one Shakespeare’s most beloved comedies, ‘Twelfth Night’ will be directed by Helen Tennison and performed in English at one of Dubrovnik’s most beautiful and most famous venues, the Lovrijenac Fortress. A culmination of love, mistaken identity and magic are just some of the elements of this classic play.

QK-3, Lovrijenac Fortress, www.midsummer-scene. com.

21.06 Sunday - 24.06 Wednesday Ana u Gradu Festival Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and with two concerts scheduled, this is a chance to enjoy both chamber and contemporary classical music by Ana and her guests.Qwww.anarucner.com.

01.07 Wednesday - 04.07 Saturday The Dubrovnik International Opera Festival The festival pays homage to the world renowned opera singer and Cavtat-born Tino Pattiera who graced some of the most famous opera house stages of the 20th century.

This is yet another musical event that puts Dubrovnik on the cultural map of Europe.QD-3, Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www.dubrovnik-opera-festival. com.

Classical Music Concerts 17.04 Friday - 30.06 Tuesday Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra Dubrovnik’s affiliation with music dates back to the 16th century. In saying that, the city’s iconic symphonic orchestra was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting of concerts on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and at three breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned classical music artists who will join them on stage.

QE-1, B-2 , D-3, Fort Revelin ; Franciscan church, Placa ; Rector’s palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dso.hr.

DUBROVNIK IN THE HOMELAND WAR 19911995 (DUBROVNIK U DOMOVINSKOM RATU) Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn.

Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra Archives

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

instagram.com/ croatiaiyp dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Cálmame – Le Petite Festival Archives

Sport events 02.05 Saturday Dubrovnik & the Konavle Trail - trekking race Cavtat - Konavle The first ever edition of this trekking race takes place outside the medieval town itself and it will not only be another attractive sporting event for both competitors and visitors to the city, but it will also be set in one of the most gorgeous parts of the world with stunning Mediterranean landscape being the perfect backdrop for such a race.

Qwww.outdoor.hr/dubrovnik-konavle-trail.

10.05 Sunday Dubrovnik International Half Marathon Turning sporty and with the motto ‘More Than A Race’, the newest event on the calendar is the city’s first 21.1 km long Half Marathon. It starts and finishes in the heart of the city, the famous Stradun. Famous acappella singing groups under the eye of Saint Blaise will add to this perfect combination of sports, culture and beauty.QD-2, Placa bb, www. dubrovnikinternationalhalfmarathon.com. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Lion of St Marko by Aleksandar Bezinović – Gallery Dulcic Masle Pulitika

The Linđo Folk Ensemble The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August 25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/ (+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.

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Culture & Events Dubrovnik Pulse

We asked locals - who live or work in Dubrovnik to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Author of the cookbook “dubrovački komini”

stone floors. In Gruž, be sure to visit the market which offers ecologically grown fruits from the Dubrovnik region. Also, if you have the opportunity, watch a Wild League waterpolo match.

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Jadranka: Be sure to go for a coffee at the pastry shop Pupica (Cvijete Zuzorić Street) where you can taste homemade cakes and cookies in a beautiful setting. At Hotel More (Lapad), along the coast, there is a natural cave below the hotel where the Cave Bar More is located. In the evening, you can taste local high-quality wines at the Wine Bar Matuško (Prijeko). In the Ploče area, the restaurant Gusta Me has a beautiful view overlooking the harbor.

Along with the friendly staff, you will certainly be satisfied with the delicious food and pleasant music. If you are younger and want to have fun, every evening at Culture Club Revelin is very lively. Lovers of classical music during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival can listen to many concerts.

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop?

What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Jadranka: That is certainly the bookstore Algebra on Stradun where you can buy the cookbook Traditional Taste of Dubrovnik so that in your home you can prepare some traditional dishes from Dubrovnik and in that way remember the beautiful moments that you experienced in Dubrovnik. Shop at Vurubus Unitus on Od Puča street where you can find traditional products from Croatia and Dubrovnik, as well as at the Dubrovačka House where they offer traditional sweets, such as candied orange peels (arancini). At AR Atelier (Nalješkovićeva Street) you can find paintings, ceramics and decorated products with traditional Konavle embroidery.

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Jadranka: The Island of Lokrum with it’s rich history and interesting legend is the ideal place to relax your body and soul. After only a 15 minute ride, you can enjoy the natural beauty, quiet, blue sea and the company of nice people. A walk through the rich botanical garden or to the fortress at the top of the island, cycling, swimming or relaxing at the coffee shop Lacroma where you can listen to the gentle sounds of the guitar, surrounded by a multitude of peacocks, which freely roam the island will make your day unforgettable. You will surely want to return to this magical island.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Jadranka: Of the many traditional dishes from Dubrovnik, I would recommend šporki makaruli (pasta

JADRANKA NIČETIĆ

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Jadranka: Early in the morning before the tourists take up every space in the city, go to Stradun and watch how the city wakes up. You will witness countless magical sounds, swift birds which fly over the city, ringing of the church bells, people greeting each other, shadows playing on the 16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Ston Cake from cookbook “Dubrovački komini by Jadranka Ničetić

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Dubrovnik Pulse and meat dish), zelena menestra (cabbage and smoked meat) from cake, Rožata and Ston Cake made with macaroni.

JANY HANSAL President of the association DEŠA – Dubrovnik DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Jany: Karaka Irish Pub to drink a cup of coffee and Trubadur for a place to go out at night.

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Jany: Porporela and Gradac.

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Jany: Walking the city walls.

DIYP: Which souvenirs from Dubrovnik should visitors bring home with them?

Jany: Jam made with sour oranges from Dubrovnik.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Jany: Arancini (candied orange peel).

Lokrum reserve Archives

VIKTOR KUŽNIN Owner of Konoba Pupo DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Viktor: My favorite place for coffee, of course, is in the middle of Stradun, at Cele, or at Pupice, in the alley, hidden from view...

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Viktor: My favourite place to relax is on Lokrum.

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Viktor: First and foremost, walk the walls. Afterwards, everything else...

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Viktor: The perfect souvenir for me is DUVENIR (a collection of souvenirs: postcard, planner, umbrella, handbag) - and everything else you can find on the street Od Puča.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Viktor: Dubrovnik visitors must taste the fish in salt and Ston Cake. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2015

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Zagreb Pulse Restaurants Croatian Bistro Glorijet Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 130kn). PAGW Dubravka Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika, and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.QA-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 160kn). PiAUGBW Kopun Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, info@restaurantkopun. com, www.restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 220kn). PJAGBW Lady Pi-Pi Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair.QC-1, Peline bb. From May Open 09:00 - 22:00 and depending on weather conditions. (65 - 150kn). JAB Mimoza In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

PiTAEGBW

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Orhan Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/(+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan. com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30.

(50 - 200kn). PJAGBW Taverna Nostromo The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+38520) 41 05 25, gastro@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka. hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW Zoe Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGBW

Breakfast Bistro Dubrava Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings.

QC-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 24:00. (40 - 55kn). PAGBXW Komarda Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices.QK,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (12 - 55kn). ABW Orlando A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee.QC,D-2, Placa bb, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 07:30 01:00. (60 - 120kn). JABW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb Restaurants Pulse

International Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+38520) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46, duchihuahua@gmail. com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. From May Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(55 - 120kn). PVNBS La Castile This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, you’re in for a real treat!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (120 - 150kn). PiAGBXW Lucin kantun “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s a nice selection of desserts.QB-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (75 - 150kn).

PJAGBW Magellan The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (52 140kn). PAULEGBXSW Pantarul A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare.

As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the menu. The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot ahead of time.QKralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, pantarul@pantarul.com, www. pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -24:00. Closed Mon. (60 130kn). PAGW Spring 2015

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Restaurants

Japanese Shizuku Japanese Cuisine Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik! Located in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. To quench your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake. A popular dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to call ahead for a reservation.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 1F, tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, shizuku.dubrovnik@hotmail. com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn).

PAGBW

Konoba

Zoe Restaurant Archives

Restaurant 360° If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°.QE-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, info@360dubrovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). PJAGBXW Taj Mahal You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/ (+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). TA6GBSW Taverna Otto This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www. tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (80 - 120kn). PAGBXW 20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dalmatino Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City, this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Fisherman’s Stew, Truffle Pasta or Grilled Calamari with Dalmatian Sauce, from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC-3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70, info@dalmatinodubrovnik.com, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). PAGBXW Jezuite Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@ gmail.com, dubrovnikrestaurant.webs.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). JABW Lokanda Peskarija Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.QD-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 90kn). PAGBXW Pupo Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast.QC-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. From May Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn). JAGBXW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Mediterranean Amfora While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed.

Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.QH-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn).

PAGBXW Klarisa Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they’d always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. They have three distinct dining areas, so private groups might be better accommodated, which includes a courtyard should the terraced area out front be too crowded for the weary tourist. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab a drink.QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@klarisa. hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 220kn). PTJA6UIEGBXSW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Nautika The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.nautikarestaurant. com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGi BXW Panorama Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent.QK,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 250kn).

PAGBXW Ragusa 2 This charming family-run restaurant located within the side streets of Dubrovnik has seating outdoors under a large canopy or indoors in a plush and aristocracy-like environment. They offer traditional mediterranean seafood dishes, such as fresh oysters and mussels, customary appetizers of pršut and cheese, and much, much more.QC-2, Zamanjina 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 61, ragusa2rudenjak@gmail. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn). PiAGBXW Spring 2015

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Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Zuzori This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow streets of the Old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!QC-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, info@zuzori.com, www.zuzori.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (90 230kn). PJAGBXW

Cavtat Galija A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.

QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav. burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open 11:00 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW Leut One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut. com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW Spinaker Ahoy matey! Sea food lovers pay attention as this newly renovated restaurant offers delicious locally caught fish and grill specialties as inspired by Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine. Find yourself tucked away along the seashore with splendid views of the Cavtat bay; the fresh breeze and the sound of waves are a stone throw away.

QFrankopanska 10 (Hotel Croatia), Cavtat, tel. (+38520) 47 55 55, www.alh.hr. From May Open 10:00 - 18:00.

(80 - 210kn). ABX Toranj Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03, konobatoranj@gmail.com, www.konoba-toranj.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 130kn). PAGBXW

Konavle Konavoski dvori Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW Konavoska brda Located within the hills of Konavle, this recently opened restaurant is the perfect spot for a delicious traditional meal in a quaint village. Offering meat ispod peke and fish dishes with baked potatoes and hearty warm homemade soup, the trip is definitely worth it. The outdoor tables are arranged in a circle with a hay roof covering, which creates a rustic feel to the old-fashioned cozy stone atmosphere.

QStravča, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 79 00 03/(+385-) 099 674 57 92, konavoska.brda@gmail.com. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. From May Open 12:00 23:00. (50 - 90kn). ALBXW Konavoski komin Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBXW

Metković Villa Neretva A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog.

If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose

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Restaurants

from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci.

QSplitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotel-villa-neretva.com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 120kn). PTAILEGBXSW

Mlini Konoba Marinero If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com. hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).

ALGBW

Ston Kapetanova kuća Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday).QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (80 - 125kn). PTALGBXW Vila Koruna The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@ du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 150kn). PJALGBXW

Zaton Ankora The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QZaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, ankora@du.tcom.hr. May - October Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn).

ABXW Orsan Gverović This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows Spring 2015

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Restaurants at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

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Pizza Baracuda Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!QB/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 09:30 - 23:30. (35 - 90kn). PAGBXSW Mea Culpa Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar.QB-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PJAGBSW Oliva In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available.QD-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www. olivadubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (49 - 109kn).

PAGBXW Tabasco The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE-1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, pizzeriatabasco@hotmail. com. Open 09:30 - 23:00. From May Open 09:30 - 24:00.

(23 - 85kn). PAGBXW

Seafood Barba Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QBoškovićeva 5, tel.

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(+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.dubrovnik@gmail.com.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. From April 15 Open 10:00 - 23:00.

(30 - 59kn). PAGW Kamenice Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00. From May Open 08:00 23:00. (58 - 123kn). JABS Levanat This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52, restoran. levanat@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (80 - 160kn).

PAGBXW Orsan The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood.

Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW Oyster & Sushi bar Bota This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 23:00. (28 - 135kn). PJAGBXW Proto Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC-2, Široka 1, tel. (+38520) 32 32 34, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PiAGi BXW

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Restaurants

Vegetarian Nishta Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@ nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.

Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (63 - 85kn). JAGi BXSW

Wine bars D’vino In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino. net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW

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La Bodega Dubrovnik Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QStradun, tel. (+385-) 095 234 23 34, labodegadub@gmail.com.

Razonoda Wine Bar This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo beer rich in vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe in Zagreb.QC-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385) 091 332 41 04, winebar@thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW

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Local Flavour Zagreb Pulse

Local Dishes Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Kamenice or oysters from the Mali Ston Bay (captured on camera and published in the Dubrovački komin cookbook

by Jadranka Ničetić) are unique to the whole of Europe.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

Pelješac Wines Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo).

In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions.

Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under

LOCAL RECIPES Here are a couple of recipes you might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in Dubrovnik Orancini Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you don’t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days.

Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry.

Bruštulane mjendule Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds, pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool before attacking.

Kotonjata From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.

Mantala A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon.

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Local Flavour

Skaramuča vineyards Archives

Wine school by Jelena Šimić Valentić

the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails. Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday.

Grgić Vina QTrstenik 78, 20245 Trstenik, tel. (+385-) 098 16 31 569/(+385-) 098 24 36 78, info@grgic-vina.com, www. grgic-vina.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00 and by prior arrangement.

Skaramuča wineshop and wine bar Wine shop Pelješac: Pijavičino i Viganj - Open for public from May to October from 9 am to 9 pm.QC-2, Dropčeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 73 75 42/(+385-) 098 26 16 84, www. dingac-skaramuca.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Vinarija Korta Katarina QUl. Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Orebić, tel. (+385-) 020 71 38 17/(+385-) 099 81 51 655, visit@kortakatarina.com.

Winter hours : Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Weekends open on request and by prior arrangement.

Summer hours : Monday - Saturday 08:00 - 22:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local&Flavour Coffee Cakes Vinarija Miloš QPonikve/Boljenovići 15, Ston, tel. (+385-) 098 96 56 880, frano.milos@du.t-com.hr, www.milos.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Wine shop&bar Peninsula QDonja Banda bb, Oskorušno, tel. (+385-) 098 28 58 24, peninsula@peninsula.hr, www.peninsula.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. ABW

The Foodie’s Guide 20.04 Monday - 26.04 Sunday Dubrovnik FestiWine Martin Luther once said, ‘Beer is made by men, wine by God’. The message here is clear and the message in Dubrovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local experience, tourists must try at least some local wine. 14th century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here and this event brings wine from the cellar to the table. It’s an all-round experience with over 100 regional winemakers presenting their vino to experts; workshops are about ‘wine in tourism’ with topics from cork and packaging to making it on the market. Art exhibits, excursions to vineyards, local restaurants offering local wines with matching dishes. What can you say, a divine wine experience waits!QB-2, Klarisa Complex (former convent of St. Claire in the Old Town), www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com.

The First Lady of the Adriatic The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea.

They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market for 10kn.

A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine.

When the festa is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold in a paté or a salad. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Coffee & Cakes Belfast Celtic Bar ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG-2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 06:30 02:00. P6NBXW Biker’s Cafe Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 24:00. From June 15 Open 07:00 - 01:30. PNBXW Festival This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. From April 15 Open 07:30 - 02:00. PAGBW Galerie One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC-2, Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW Glam Café If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails.

QC-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00. June - September Open 08:30 - 02:00.

PJ6NGBXW Libertina (Lući) Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.

6GBXW

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Soul Caffe This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QUska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07, antuntun_5@ yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PA6EGi BXW Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebardubrovnik@gmail.com, www.hotel-more.hr. April Open 10:00 - 18:00. From May Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW

Sweet treats Pupica Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor@ pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com.

Open 07:00 - 20:00. From May Open 07:00 - 22:00.

PiNGBW Yogomania This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy your sweet tooth.

QB-2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija.papak@gmail.com.

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Nightlife Nightlife

Bars Art Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.com. Open 09:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. GBXW Buža What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com.

Open according to weather conditions. May - November Open 08:00 - 02:00. B Mirage On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.QC-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

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None Nina A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www. nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From May Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW Onofrio Ice Bar Brrrr, it’s cold in here! Onofrio Ice Bar is made completely out of ice- the bar, the seats and even the glasses! Ice statues of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, and the famous Orlando, adorn the small space. Don’t worry about freezing because they provide you with a jacket to keep you warm, even during the hot days when you’re looking for a place to cool off from the sweltering Mediterranean sun.QPoljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 02 57. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From May Open 09:00 - 01:00.

PJAGBXW Rock Caffe Exit Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2. Open 19:00 - 02:00. PENXW Spring 2015

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Nightlife Casino Golden Sun Casino Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late.

Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at Golden Sun Casino!QH/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Open 14:00 - 04:00.

Clubs Banje Beach Night Club The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL-5, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.eu.

Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. June - September 30 Open 22:00 - 06:00. PABW Culture Club Revelin Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE-1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com.

Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAGW

DJ Alesso – MTV DJ Mag Festival Archives

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Lazareti These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL-2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From July Open 22:00 - 05:00.

Closed Sun.

Lounge bars Culto Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 04:00. PABXW Victoria Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and panache waits.QL-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina), tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoriarestaurant.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00 and depending on weather conditions. AEK

Pubs Arch Pub As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, archpub@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW Gaffe Pub It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City, the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most other local stockists of the ‘black stuff’. We won’t let this spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of a, well, gaffe.QC-3, Miha Pracata 4. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

From May Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJ6GBXW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Sightseeing

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00.QD-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.

Lokrum Island You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn.

Stradun, Placa When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Spring 2015

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Sightseeing

Church of St Blaise – TZ Dubrovnik Archives

Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C-2.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QD-3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Sunday Open 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.

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The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qwww. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open Nov/Dec/Jan/Feb/March - 09:00-15:00 , Apr/May - 08:00-18:30, Jun/Jul - 08:0019:30 , Aug - 08:00-19:00, Sep - 08:00-18:30, Oct - 08:0017:30. Admission 30 - 100kn.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QB-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.tcom.hr, www.malabraca.wix.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 15 - 30kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Most amazing views of the Old City, Lapad bay and the nearby islands

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DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR :: tel: +385 20 325 393, info@dubrovnikcablecar.com RESTAURANT BAR “PANORAMA” :: tel: +385 20 312 664, nautika@du.t-com.hr facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2015 35

Sightseeing The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

Museums Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić , Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Mu36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

seum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić , Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzejmarindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić , Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD-2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open Nov- May 10:00 - 17:00, Jun - Oct 09:00 - 21:00.

Admission 35kn.

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Sightseeing

Churches Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata) To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.QB-2, Placa bb.

Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i bratovština Rozario) Opposite the Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles.QD-2, Zlatarska.

Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna crkva) Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan.QC-3, Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83, spco@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Church Admission free. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in English is held on Sundays at 11:00. QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv.

Katarine) The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.QC-3, Strossmayerova 3.

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.QD-2, Zlatarska.

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.QD-2, Sv. Dominika.

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Sightseeing The Cathedral (Katedrala) The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets.

It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries.

The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption

by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.QD-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.

Galleries Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian mod-

Photo by Brandon Tay

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ern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Otok Gallery, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić , Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD-3, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, dad@dad.hr, www.dad.hr. May - November Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 25kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

War Photo Limited A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images.QC-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 40kn.

Landmarks Boninovo cliffs It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Dubrovnik Cable Car The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+38520) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www. dubrovnikcablecar.com. April - May Open 09:00 - 20:00.

From June 01 - October Open 09:00 - 24:00. Adults 108kn, Children under 12 50kn, Children under 4 free.

Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D-3.

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Sightseeing Onofrio’s Fountains – Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD-2, Pred Dvorom.

Orsula Park There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th cen-

tury St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

Semisubmarine Is it a fish? Is it a walrus? Noooo, its half boat/half submarine! This crafty piece of engineering gives views both on deck and 1.5 metres below the sea surface. Day (45 min) and night (30 min) trips are available where you can see the old city walls to beautiful marine life, and you don’t even have to get wet.QOld City harbour, tel. (+385) 099 205 62 28, www.semisubmarine-dubrovnik.com.

The Aquarium (Akvarij) Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed.

QE-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78.

Nov - Apr Open 09:00 - 16:00 ; May/Oct Open 09:00 - 20:00 ; Jun - Sep Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 60kn.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The

Park St Orsula Archives

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Sightseeing

bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD-3, Pred Dvorom.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 1.

The City Harbour (Gradska luka) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural restfacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

ing point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E-2/3.

The Lazaret (Lazareti) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL-5.

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Photo by Andrija Carli – Dubrovnik County tourist board Archives

Dubrovnik Surroundings IMMERSE YOURsELF BY DISCOVERING THIS MAGICAL REGION, ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND ITS RICH CULTURAL AND AUTOChTHONIC FOOD OFFER

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Dubrovnik Surroundings AgrItourism Agroturizam Laptalo Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home-made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. IK Konoba Vinica - Monković family Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta,Surya tel. (+385-20) 79 Centre Archives 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59, monkovic@konobavinica. com, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 110kn). PALB

Islands Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Korčula City Museum QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@ du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. July - September 15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn per person, for groups 15kn per person.

Korčula Tourist Board QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, info@ visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

September Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, tz-lastovo@du.tcom.hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Mljet Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with

131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

Bell Tower – TZ Korčula Archives

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Mljet Tourist Board Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

October Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tzmljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. October Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

The Elafiti Islands Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti isfacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

lands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Limuni Blace – TZ Mljet Archives

Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.

The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are wellmarked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings Events 04.06 Thursday - 08.10 Thursday Moreška Sword Dance A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreška was common across Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of swords.QKorčula.

06.06 Saturday - 27.09 Sunday The Cavtat Summer Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is by the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first weekend in July. All the events are for free.QCavtat, Main Square.

The Sivi soko viewpoint Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road.

After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely

15.06 Monday - 29.06 Monday Konavle Art, ‘Word & Music Festival’ With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only included classical music concerts, the repertoire these days includes performances in other musical genres as well as theatre shows, film screenings, art pop music and exhibitions.

Each year the increasing number of visitors and positive feedback testify to the large success of this only such festival in the Konavle area!QVarious locations.

19.06 Friday Sword Dance Festival On guard! As this event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of Korčula’s sword dance societies called ‘Kumpanjija’ perform a type of chain dance with swords dating back as early as the 12th century. Come and see this amazing battle dance that carries the universal message of good overcoming bad.QKorčula.

01.07 Wednesday - 31.08 Monday Summer on the Elaphite Islands Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cultural event has for a number of years been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.

QKoločep, Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

TZ Bela Luka Archives

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Moreška Sword Dance – Photo by Neven Fazinić, TZ Korčula Archives

small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, 48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Tourist Board of Konavle QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit.cavtatkonavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Sokol tower Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

Tickets 25 - 40kn.

Dubrovnik Surroundings Metković Tourist Board QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, info@tzmetkovic.hr, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Photo by Boris Jović

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Shopping Surroundings Dubrovnik

TZ Mljet Archives

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the vil50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

lage of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.

Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Dubrovnik Surroundings Orebić Tourist Board QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Ston Tourist Board QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@ du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. October Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

The walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed

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that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

The Walls of Ston QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. +385 (0)20 638 800/+385 (0)20 638 801/802, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably

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Shopping Surroundings Dubrovnik healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Silk Production in Konavle According to the oldest written records, silk production in Dubrovnik’s Konavle region goes back to the 15th century. Silk was an exceptionally important fabric here since it was used in weaving the Konavle folk dress – one of the most beautiful aspects of Croatian cultural heritage. In this part of the world, people lite ally were born with silk, lived with it and died with it, and the art of producing silk was passed among women from generation to generation. You can see silk worked into Konavle folk dress, most often on decorative bibs and bodices, aprons, caps, waistcoats, suits and elsewhere.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about silk production is rearing the silkworms themselves. In order to obtain the highest quality threads, man must work in harmony with silk moths, silk worms (in Konavle dialect: bubice) and the white mulberry trees on which they feed. The silken threads are teased from the silkworm’s cocoon (punćela), which is made from a single thread of raw silk between 300 and 900 metres long. Up until the 1960s almost everyone in the Konavle region made silk, but then the tradition started to die out.

However, the war that broke out here in the 1990s abruptly robbed the women of Konavle of their homes and livelihoods. If it hadn’t been for a lady named Jany Hansal from the local non-governmental organization Deša, who managed to bring the silkworms back to the south of Croatia, the silkmaking tradition may now be just a memory. 18 years ago the bubice returned to Konavle, smuggled in from France in the voluptuous curves of one lady.

Today around ten families in Konavle raise silkworms, and silk is an attractive part of the tourist offering. During the month of May, the time when the silkworms feed, workshops on producing silk are held throughout Konavle.

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Shopping Dubrovnik Surroundings

Solana Ston – Photo by Nenad Reberšak

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Zagreb Pulse Shopping Leisure

Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit Buggy Archives

that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

Adventure Adriatic Kayak tours QK-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/ (+385-) 091 550 83 06, info@adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Adventure Dalmatia Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, dubrovnik@adventuredalmatia.com, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Blue Plante Archives

Kayaking – Photo by Grace Jurković

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Dubrovnik Adventures Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey, you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, info@dubrovnikadventures.com, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Kojan koral Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Leisure Shopping Safaris across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland.

Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Big game fishing Big Game Fishing Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www. biggamedubrovnik.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Cycling Teuta QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/ (+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz.

Open 09:00 - 19:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

Scuba Diving Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre QG-2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.hr@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A Blue Planet For info out of season call 091 899 09 73.QF-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanet-diving.com, www.blueplanetdiving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. April to November open every day 09:00 - 19:00, November to April by prior arrangement.

Diving Club Dubrovnik On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.QG/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@dudiver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Tennis Babin Kuk tennis centre You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour.QF/G-3, Ive Dulčića bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 76 27. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Dubrovnik Tennis Club QH-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn.

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Shopping pick up these is the daily outdoor market on Gundulićeva poljana, although most delicatessens in town also carry a good selection.

Antiques Antiques Tezoro Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A

Art galleries AR Atelier 2 A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+38520) 32 17 21Research completed: Feb 25 15, 3.00pm by Eli/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, antonia.ruskovic@gmail.com, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A Cvijet by Kike Archives

Bland souvenir shops are gradually taking over Dubrovnik’s main thoroughfares, and if you really think that a ceramic mug bearing the word ‘Dubrovnik’ is going to look good in someone’s kitchen cupboard back home, then you certainly won’t have too much trouble finding one.

Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town.

One of the most authentic local products is jewellery. Jewellery was an integral part of local folk costume and also played an important part in local family ritual, with female children receiving earrings at baptism and at other important stages in their lives.

It was traditionally around Zlatarska ulica (Goldsmiths’ Street) that the main jewellery workshops were to be found, although these days they are more randomly scattered throughout the Old Town. What hasn’t changed is that the jewellery sold in the filigree shops has often been made on the premises by local artisans, using traditional folk designs as inspiration. Especially attractive are traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, and large hoop- or drop-earrings adorned with baubles.

Konavle, the region southeast of Dubrovnik, produces a distinctive style of embroidery, rich in brightly coloured geometric shapes. Dazzling white blouses with intricately embroidered borders were once a standard form of female attire, and items like these can still be picked up on souvenir stalls. Konavle embroidery is also used to decorate more modern items such as tablecloths and handkerchiefs.

Dubrovnik’s souvenir shops also sell a great deal of quality products that are common to the whole of Croatia, especially food-and-drink items such as natural honey, olive oil and herb-flavoured rakijas. One of the best places to 56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Artur A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com, www.arturgallery.com.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. A Heritage Gallery & Shop A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.hr.

Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00. A Romana atelier Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romana-milutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. April - July 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00 ; July - November 10:00 - 15:00, 16:00 21:00. A Talir Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik. hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A Workshop Be Craft This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Souvenirs Baboon Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.

QI-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com, www. suvenirnica-baboon.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W Bačan Handmade Products Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale.QD-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21, lena.janjalija@dubrovnikportal.com. Open 09:30 15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN Duty Free Shop One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Kokula Art & Craft Shop Recently opened, this small crafts shop deals exclusively in Croatian-sourced goods. Lace, embroidered items, paintings, carvings, and even cookies and other edible goodies from Dubrovnik, are all available here. None of the inevitable tack which such tourist hotspots attract can be found here.QB-2, Đorđićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 12, kokula@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Lega-Lega The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods.QC-2, Dropčeva 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 44, dubrovnik@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. AW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Medusa Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj.QB/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@ medusa.hr, www.medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Museum shop The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.QD-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

AW Palma Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Tilda Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, tildadubrovnik@gmail.com, www.tildadubrovnik. com. April 10:00 - 19:00, Sun closed; May/October 09:00 - 20:00 ; June - September 09:00 - 22:00. A Waxing lyrical Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle?

All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com.

TZ Dubrovnik Archives

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Shopping Accessories

Designer Clothing

Art Go’Den A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand.

Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel and Valamar Dubrovnik President.QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 099 314 84 11, enterdubrovnik.doo@du.t-com.hr, www.artgoden.com.

Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A

Croatian Designers Room Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.QC-3, Od puča 11. April - May/October - December 10:00 - 20:00 ; June/ September 10:00 - 21:00 ; July - August 10:00 - 22:00.

A

Borza Grupa The Dubrovnik established Borza Grupa Ltd. offers a wide range of designer bags, shoes, watches, sunglasses and other accessories by top designers, such as Braccialini, M Missoni, Armani and many more.QD-2, Placa 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 98, www.borzagrupa.hr. Open 09:00 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. A Croata Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie.QD-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. April Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

A Magnolika Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky tshirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically here in Croatia.QB-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885 69 10, magnolika.art@gmail.com, www.magnolika. com. Open Tu - Fri 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 ; Sat 10:00 - 13:00 ; Sun & Mon cls. A

Maria If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@mariastore. hr, www.mariastore.hr. April 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun cls. ; May 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00 ; June/September 10:00 - 20:00 ; July - August 10:00 00:00. A Modni kantun A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A XD Xenia Design Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, info@ xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open through the year 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun cls. ; July - August 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00 - 12:00. A

Jewellery Clara Stones Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA

Traditional Jewellery – TZ Dubrovnik Archives

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik Treasures Unique homemade jewellery with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver, philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Worth the visit!QB-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www. dubrovniktreasures.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Križek This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

DElicatessen Dubrovačka kuća A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. March May Open 09:00 - 20:00. June - September Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. Open every day: April 9 - 21 ; May 9 - 22 ; June - September 9 - 00 ; October 9 - 22. A Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški cheese from sheep’s milk.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, info@gligora. com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. AGB Kraš The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. November - April 8:00 - 20:00, sun cls. ; May/October 08:00 - 21:00, sun cls. ; June/September 08:00 - 22:00 ; July - August Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Oleoteka Uje Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC-2, Placa bb, Stradun, www.uje. hr. April 09:00 - 21:00, May 09:00 - 23:00, June - October 09:00 - 00:00, November 10:00 - 17:00. A

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Škar Winery Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.

The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH-2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05. Open May - October 09:00 13:00; 17:00 - 22:00.

Vinoteka Miličić Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. April - May 09:00 20:00, Sun cls. ; June 09:00 - 21:00 every day ; July - September 09:00 - 23:00 every day ; October 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A

Nautical Supplies Lalizas Marina QNa skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel. (+385-20) 45 40 73, dubrovnik@lalizas.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Top Marine QI-2, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department store, tel. (+385-20) 35 70 17, topmarine.dubrovnik@gmail.com.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Specialty Havana Cigar Shop - Onofrio Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62, dubrovnik@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr.

Open through the year 09:30 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun cls.

July - August 12:00 - 00:00. A

Chic & Cheerful Take a peek at chic & unique shopping locations in Dubrovnik.

Cvijet by Kike For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG-2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. A Spring 2015

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Hotels SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

5 STARS Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton. com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com.

147 rooms (147 doubles). From €250 per room/per night.

PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh Importanne Hotels & Resort QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com, www. importanneresort.com. 291 rooms (212 doubles €150 300, 79 apartments €190 - 600). PZiHARUi FLGBKDCwW Kazbek QH-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €139 - 445, 1 suite €226 - 404). PZHA6LGKi DCW hhhhh

Valamar Dubrovnik President QF-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+38520) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 286 rooms (286 doubles €159 - 438). PiHAi RUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

4 STARS Lapad QH-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr. 163 rooms (4 singles €77 - 153, 153 doubles €110 - 234, 4 suites €190 - 333, 2 Junior Suites €158 304). PiHAULGBKCW hhhh Uvala QG-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €76 108, 6 triples €61 - 86). Prices are per person per night.

PHAIFLGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Argosy QF-1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €99 - 270).

PiT H A R U F L E G B K D CwW hhhh Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik QF-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 385 rooms (385 doubles €129 - 311).

PiHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh

3 STARS Aquarius QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www. hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €85 - 124, 8 doubles €120 - 176, 4 triples €168 - 245, 4 suites €140 208). PiAULGBKW hhh

Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos. com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000). PZiTHAUFLGBKDi CwW hhhhh

Berkeley QJ-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (22 doubles €80 - 180, 2 apartments €110 - 235). PiALGCW hhh

The Pucić Palace QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+38520) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www. thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €230 - 300, 16 doubles €355 - 560, 1 suite €780 - 970, 1 Junior Suite €560 - 690). PZTJAR6GBKW hhi hhh

Komodor QG-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40 - 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67). Prices are per person per night. PHALEBKCW hhh

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Hotels Lero QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www. hotel-lero.hr. 159 rooms (150 doubles €90 - 156, 9 apartments €138 - 248). PiHA6UFLGi BKDCwW hhh Petka QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www. hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms (8 singles €84 - 100, 96 doubles €110 - 140). PiHARLGBKW hhh Tirena QF-2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €83 - 215). Pii HAR6LGBKCW hhh Valamar Club Dubrovnik QF-2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+38520) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €95 - 221). PiTAi R6ULGBKCW hhh Vis QG-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles €40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66).

PALEGBKW hhh

2 STARS Adriatic QG-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 20, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 107 rooms (9 singles €32 76, 81 doubles €24 - 62, 17 triples €15 - 50). Prices are per person per night. PAFLEGBKW hh

Hostel Dubrovnik Youth Hostel QI-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 1517), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds, 130 235kn per person. ARGBKW Fresh Sheets QB-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.freshsheetshostel.com. 16 dorm beds, 18 - 40€ per person. AGW Vila Micika QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika. hr. 16 dorm beds, 36 - 52€ per person. PA6GW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Hotels Directory Business Connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber QI-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, hgkdu@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. RIT Croatia QJ/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, ritcroatia@croatia.rit.edu, www.croatia.rit.edu. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Belgium QH-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 76/(+38520) 43 81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark QI-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Italy QI-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, ragusa.onorario@esteri.it. Open by arrangement.

The Netherlands QI-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41/(+385-) 091 456 79 01, 091 396 63 22, nlconsul. dubrovnik@atlant.hr. Open , Tue, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Real estate Alavija nekretnine QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, fax (+385-20) 35 68 56, info@ alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnik-properties.info.

Open 09:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement.

Pro Krečak QJ-4, Put Republike 14, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02/ (+385-) 098 34 47 57, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www. nekretnine-prokrecak.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zlatka QI-2, Vukovarska 30, tel. (+385-20) 35 68 65/(+385-) 091 454 00 04, zlatka@zlatka.hr, www.zlatka.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Elegant Dry cleaners.QI-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette Retro self-service laundromat. Group drop-off service available only upon request.QE-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@ dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg), 25kn per 30 minutes.

Sunce Laundry.QI-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18. Open 07:00 - 19:00. N

Pets Bobanović Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fauna Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .

Gruž QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće QB-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. Open 07:00 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod zvonika QC-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad QG/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Dry cleaners & Laundries Post Amo Wash & Dry QI-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun.

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Central Post Office QI-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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Directory Maps & Index

Photo by Vesna Ĺ poljar

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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MapsDirectory & Index

Ston Tourist BoardBrendon Archives Tay A. Barca A. Hallera A. Hebranga A. Kazali A. Šenoe A.G. Matoša A.T. Mimare Antuninska Aquarium Arhiv Asimon Bernarda Shawa Babin Kuk Bandureva Banjska Batahovina Batala Biokovska Bokar Bokeljska Boninovo Bosanka Bo�atska Branitelja Dubrovnika Brdasta Brgatska

H-2,3 J-2,3 I-2 H-1/I-2/J-2 H-2 J-2 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-4 I-2 C-2 E-3 D-2 E-1 L-2 K-2 G-2 D-4 I-3 G-1 H-2/I-2 G-2 A-3 G-1 J-3 L-2 C-2 I-2 D-4 J-3 J-2 L-2

Brsalje Bu�a Cavtatska

Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera

Dr�avna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska D�amija

F. Prešerna F. Supila

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2,3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

Garište Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Hladnica Hodiljska Hvarska

Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

J. Berse Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kardinala Stepinca Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Kne�ev dvor Komajska Konavoska Koritska Kotorska Kralja Tomislava Kunska L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Maps & Index Directory Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina

H,I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2

Metohijska Miha Pracata

Luka Dubrovnik

H-1

Ljubuška

H-1

Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono

M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca

K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2

N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Napice Neumska

Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

G-3 G-3 H-2 C-3 F, G-3

66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H,I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 C-3 H,I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba �udioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1,2/J-2 I,J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C,B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Krešimira IV Padre Perice Paska Baburice Peline Pelješka Petilovrijenci Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J,K-3 H-1 C,D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

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MapsDirectory & Index Pomoraca Pomorski muzej Porat Porporela Posat Postranjska Pred Dvorom Prelazna Pridvorska Prijeko Primorska Prive�na Puljizeva Put od Bosanke

H-1 E-4 E-3 E-3,4 E-2 I-2 D-3 B-3 J-2 B-2,3/C-2 G-2 J-2 B-3 L-2

Revelin

E-1

Ribarnica

D-2

Savska Sinjska Slanska

G-3 I-2 G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Kri�a Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

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I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2/K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika Sv. Josipa Sv.Nikole Šetalište kralja Zvonimira

D-2 B-3 H-1 G,H-2

Vladimira Nazora Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Velika Petka

Šibenska Šipanska

G-2 H-1 I-2 C-2 J-2 C-3 I-2 E-2 I-2 G-1 G-2 K-3 I-2 H-1 F-3 H-2 H-2 C-3,4 K-2 B-1 K-2

Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska

Široka Tivatska Tmušasta Topolska Trg oru�ja Trpanjska Trstenska U pilama Uvala Gru� Uvala Sumartin Uz Giman Uz Glavicu Uz Jezuite Uz mline Uz posat Uz tabor

Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska �udioska �uljanska �upska

J-2 G-2 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J,K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2,3 B-3,4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

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