Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No16

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Summer 2015

Trench and Trowel

Croatia’s top ten archeological attractions

Dubrovnik Homes

Ideal Renaissance villas explored

N°16 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6 Bringing to you the wow factor of the summer season

Arrival & Getting Around

7

SOS! Have no fear, IYP is here

City Basics 11 The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik Summer Houses

13

Explore where the aristocratic families lived

Culture & Events

15

Life in the fast lane

Archeological Treasury

21 Marinated cuttlefish - grandma’s recipes that have stood the test of time

Ten Croatian archeological destinations

Dubrovnik Pulse

23

When in Dubrovnik, do as Dubrovčani

Coffee & Cakes

Restaurants 25

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Spicing things up

Nightlife

Local Flavour Treat yourself or be treated

39

45 48

Dancing under the starry sky

Sightseeing

50

Discover what we’ve uncovered

Maps & Index

City Centre Map Street Register City Map Dubrovnik county map

60 61 62 65

Dubrovnik Surroundings 66

All in a day

Leisure

79

Treasure some leisure

Shopping

81

Who sells sea shells by the sea shore

Hotels

87

The true meaning of “do not disturb” Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives Islets Vrhovnjaci - Island hopping for a day goes a long way...

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Directory

89

Services you just may need Summer 2015

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Foreword Dear traveller, you’ve just arrived to Dubrovnik, a fortified seaside town that has enough history, legend, and natural beauty to fully render the above words true. Indeed your first glimpse of the town, especially when descending along the airport road where you bypass stoned houses, terracotta roofs and green pines could be a love at first sight experience. But we’re here to help your stay be better than OK!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja

Our feature summer edition brings with it heaps of things, places and events for you to see and do. Possible highlights should include a visit to the Pelješac area and its country farms which are rich in grapes and wine cellars. We even have a new wine guide with our very own sommelier’s fancied red and whites from the area. Our special on Dubrovnik summer houses ought to leave you spellbound and for those who come to appreciate a bit of history, there is a write up on archaeology; you really get to appreciate the value of a building, monument or statue where they each have a story to tell. There are loads of events and festivals, as well as nightclubs for party goers with café culture part and parcel of life here! The summer beats keep on rolling and boy o boy do we have some sizzling calendar dates to put into your diary.

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačević Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Assistant Eli Gajinov Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Lovro Boljat Photography Dubrovnik InYour Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

And before you delve into your IYP guide, no matter how hot or crowded it may get in summer, no matter which Hollywood star you may happen to come across, don’t forget that the Dubrovnik is firmly on the UNESCO heritage list and we hope you go away with some inspiring memories.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

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8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING by boat

ARRIVING by bus

There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver.

Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

G&V Line Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG-1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, ag.dubrovnik@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 22:00; Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00; Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 19:00 - 20:00.

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Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.

ARRIVING by car For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

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Arrival & Getting Around

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.

When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!

ARRIVING by plane The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

European Coastal Airlines Seaports Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​ Seaside Airport Resnik QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10, resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

Seaside Airport Jelsa Q ​ Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Rab QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Pula QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www. ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).

You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticketstamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Taxi The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 020 33 22 22, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 27kn base rate, 9kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 150kn per hour for waiting. During your stay in Dubrovnik, you can download the free app inTAXI on your Android or iPhone for transportation services.

Car rental Avis - Budget QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, dubrovnik.apt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

A Dollar&Thrifty QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www. carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www. hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A

The best way to enjoy Dubrovnik

ing

ell snork

contact: 0993332829 0914191452

big ga me fis hing

private excursions-transfers fishing excursions www.dubrovnikboatcharter.com

fishing

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Arrival & Getting Around Paraiso Mediterraneo From excursions to tours and accommodation, transfers to car rentals and yacht services, assistance and local guides in your native language.Qtel. (+385-1) 799 98 40, info@ paraisomediterraneo.com, www.paraisomediterraneo. com. A Vivado Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N

Tourist Information Centres The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

Gruž QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+38520) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Parking Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

Travel agencies Dubrovnik Travel Excursions and cruises can be yours!QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dt-croatia.com, www.dtcroatia.com. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Elite Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon.QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@ elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Gulliver travel Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... Also at G-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23. April - October 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+38520) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A 12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Lapad QH-2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+38520) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Lopud QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured.lopud@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

Pile QC-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Šipan QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, ured.sipan@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Zaton QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured. zaton@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

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City Basics Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

We connect Croatia European Coastal Airlines redefines your journey in the air by providing fast daily scheduled connections to the most magnificent islands in the Adriatic. You are invited to explore stunning coastlines and the beautifully preserved centuries old harbour towns Croatia has to offer from an entirely new perspective. Whether traveling for business or pleasure, ECA will provide an experience worth remembering.

www.ec-air.eu

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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City Basics When things go wrong

Visas

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Toilets

Water

There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

National Holidays

TAXI (arrival)

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 5 Easter April 6 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 4 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

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Dubrovnik Summer Houses

Neptune’s fountain from the Gučetić’s family summer house garden in Trsteno

Discover the story of dubrovnik summer houses with Jonathan Bousfield One of the things that most visitors to Dubrovnik learn sooner or later is that the former city-state was a republic of nobles in which most power resided in a tightly-knit group of aristocratic families. But where did these aristocratic families live? Where are their palaces?

The Old Town is full of narrow streets and tall, spacechallenged houses, leaving very little visual evidence of the city’s aristocratic past. Although there is plenty of fine architecture within the city walls, especially when it comes to the former city-states’ governmental buildings (the Sponza Palace, for example, or Knežev dvor), family homes tend to be hidden behind plain stone facades – private grandeur was rarely put on public display.

However an aristocratic villa culture did exist outside the city walls, where Renaissance houses with walled gardens are still a prominent feature of the Dubrovnik landscape.

Some of these villas remain in private hands, some are owned by institutions, and quite a few languish uninhabited, the potential targets of some ultra-expensive future renovation project. Very few indeed are accessible to the facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

public, rendering Dubrovnik’s villa culture an enduringly secretive, semi-hidden world.

The one villa that appears in all the guidebooks is the Gučetić villa at Trsteno, 13km up the coast, where the Croatian Academy of Science’s Arboretum draws busloads of visitors. It’s an undeniably lovely place and is well worth visiting for a multitude of reasons, but neither house nor garden has preserved its original appearance.

The museum of the Renaissance villa is, it seems, the one obligatory Dubrovnik heritage attraction that is still waiting to be invented.

Indeed this villa culture is just as important to the city’s heritage as its medieval walls or its monastery cloisters. It was in the fourteenth century that Dubrovnik’s wealthier families first started building second homes outside the city walls. The number of these increased enormously in the sixteenth century, when it became the standard aspiration of noble families – and the wealthier non-noble families – to have a place outside the city.

It’s difficult to agree on a general English name for these villas – literal translations of the Croatian terms ljetnikovac (summer house) or ladanjska kuća (country house) don’t quite convey how important these residences were to the Summer 2015

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Dubrovnik Summer Houses life of the city. They were used all year round, and very often became the centre of a family’s social life rather than a place of quiet retreat. These second homes were rarely showy or palatial – outward extravagance was considered bad form among Dubrovnik nobles – but they did offer both the luxury of space, and access to the outdoors. They were frequently located near to the family’s fruit orchards, vineyards and olive groves, so had an economic role as well as a purely relaxational one.

There were certain conventions governing the shape of these villas. They usually took an L-shaped form, with a main building comprising central hall surrounded by four rooms, and an annex leading down the a waterfront boat house. Within the villa’s walls would be a garden divided up into box-hedge quadrants, with pergolas to enable shaded strolling, and possibly a fishpond connected by a small channel to the seafront outside.

The sixteenth-century explosion of second homes led to changes in lifestyle and culture. It was at these villas that people would meet to talk about the latest developments in business affairs or the arts, or attend parties at which music or plays would be performed. The villas themselves were frequently decorated with artworks and surrounded by gardens, which only served to enhance their cultural symbolism. Indeed it would not be unfair to say that Dubrovnik’s cultural and scientific life took place in the villas outside the walls rather than inside the city itself.

According to leading expert on villa architecture Nada Grujić, the whole experience of the Renaissance in this part of Croatia was shaped by the villa lifestyle. “Thanks to these villas a particular form of socializing occurs, in mutual conversations and debates”, she wrote in 1991. “In reading and discussing art a specific way of thinking was formed, along with our Renaissance literature, philosophy and culture.”

It is impossible to imagine that Renaissance noble Nikola Gučetić could have written his dialogues On Beauty and On Love (1581) anywhere else than at his villa at Trsteno, where the philosophical conversations described in his texts probably took place.

Given the many violent ruptures in Dubrovnik’s history (notably the earthquake of 1667, or the destruction wrought by the Franco-Russian War of 1807), it’s perhaps surprising that so many of the city’s Renaissance villas have survived.

Few of the original villa-owning families are still around.

Many of Dubrovnik’s aristocratic houses fell on hard times in the nineteenth century and were forced to sell up their historic properties – frequently to returning economic migrants who had made their fortune in South America.

Another watershed occurred after 1945, when many of the big houses were nationalized and shared out among public institutions.

Dubrovnik’s Renaissance villas are still an important feature of the landscape, although they are often hidden behind high walls and palm trees, or edged into anonymity by 16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

neighbouring modern buildings. Several villas line the waterfront of Gruž harbour, with yet more to be found along the shores of the Rijeka Dubrovačka - the sea inlet spanned by the Franjo Tuđman suspension bridge just to the west of Gruž.

None of these villas are currently open to the public on a walk-in basis, although tours taking in several prominent houses can be arranged through local tourist agencies. One of the villas you will be taken to is the Sorkočević villa on the southern side of Gruž harbour, which now belongs to the Dubrovnik Historical Institute. Surrounded by a high crenellated wall, the villa looks a bit like a castle – although it belongs to an era when Dubrovnik’s borders were expanding and there was no longer any real fear of sea-borne invaders.

It was built in 1521 by Petar Sorkočević, who served four times as rector of the city, and whose family had grown rich on the proceeds of the Balkan silver-mining trade. Inside is a small museum collection relating to the history of Dubrovnik and a lovely old library. The villa’s chapel contains a 15th-century statue of Dubrovnik’s patron St Blaise, carved the by prolific Dalmatian stonemason Juraj Dalmatinac, architect of the UNESCO-listed Šibenik Cathedral.

One other villa that regularly opens its doors to organized tours is the Bunić-Kaboga Villa, located at the southeastern end of the Rijeka Dubrovačka. Recently restore to its Gothic-Renaissance glory by descendants of the original family, this colonnaded mansion is frequently used as a venue for conferences and social events. The Villa Stay, next door to the Bunić-Kaboga house, has been home to the Dubrovnik Restoration Institute since 1998, and will also open its doors to visitors on a pre-arranged tour.

One place that anyone can stop off at is the Sorkočević villa, now serving as the administrative building of the ACI Marina at the Rijeka Dubrovačka’s northern end. Although you can’t visit the interior of the villa, it’s an undoubtedly beautiful spot, with the bobbing boats of the marina overlooked by a ring of stony hills. The villa’s garden, with its geometric box-hedge layout, is a popular venue for wedding photographs, and if you come here on a Saturday you’re almost certain to see a bride and groom posing beneath the pergola.

Carry on around the curve of the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet and you will come to Mokošica, where modern tower blocks dwarf a handful of ruined villas, including the Gucetić Villa, famous for its arcaded Gothic-Renaissance façade. Although restoration work is still in its early stages, the villa has been earmarked as the future site of the Mokošica Cultural Centre – a welcome sign that Dubrovnik’s once great villa culture has not yet breathed its last.

To find out more about tours of Dubrovnik’s Renaissance summer houses contact the Dubrovnik tourist office, or drop a line to registered tour guide Branka Franičević (brankaf@du.t-com.hr) who will be glad to offer a tailormade tour. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives

Exhibitions January 2013 - December 2015 Fish of the Dubrovnik region This extraordinary exhibition presents around 70 fish species found in the Dubrovnik area not to mention endangered species presented in 3D models. A didactic educational playground mimicking fish movements is fun and interactive for the kiddies and besides the permanent artefacts from the old museum’s collection, recent collections will also be showcased.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

January - November 2015 The Freshwater Turtle Native solely to the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, the pond turtle (Emys orbicularis) and the river turtle (Mauremys rivulata) are the only types of freshwater turtles to be found in Croatia. This exhibition will showcase the living conditions of these extraordinary yet almost extinct species, whilst also informing visitors on how to raise public awareness in protecting them.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

February 2014 - December 2015 The Hum of the Sea Who sells sea shells by the seashore! Established way back at the beginning of the 19th century, the collection of molluscs at the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum is vast indeed. See a historical overview of the various molluscs showcased with a special emphasis on species found in the Adriatic Sea and shore.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum ,Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

08.04 Wednesday - 29.11 Sunday Exhibition of prints by Salvador Dali An exhibition of works from the great artist’s oeuvre will be shown in the foyer of the Convent of St. Clare. This is a unique presentation of graphics from his ‘Biblia Sacra’ and ‘The Divine Comedy’ works. Due to the techniques used these works occupy a special place in his opus. A selection of over 130 of Dali’s prints from 1964 to 1967 will be shown, 70 graphic prints, and Dali’s statue of Dante.

QB-2, Convent of St. Clare, Poljana Paška Miličevića 3.

March 2014 - December 2015 In Honour of the City This year marks the 5th anniversary since the reopening of the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum. Of high regard is a tribute to two of the city’s historical stalwarts; Antun Drobac, to whom the Museo Patrio was founded and who contributed greatly to the economic development of the city. And to Baldo Kosić, who established the first natural collection of fish, amphibians, birds, reptiles and mammals from the Dubrovnik area.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

04.06 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday Contemporary Japanese Prints An extraordinary selection of 30 outstanding representatives of Japanese contemporary graphic art including Amano Jnji, Arichi Yoshito and Isomi Teruo! All the artworks displayed combine ancient and traditional Japanese techniques depicting prevalent customs and nature on its own using their very own form and style.QL-2, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www. ugdubrovnik.hr.

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Culture & Events

Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives

25.07 Saturday - 13.08 Thursday Marc Riboud As part of the Randez-vous Festival which promotes French culture in Croatia, one of France’s most celebrated photographers Marc Riboud will hold an exhibition in Dubrovnik and brings with him 15 of his most popular photos and 30 of his works which were taken in 1953 during his stay in Croatia. The best of the past in the present!QSponza Palace, Sv. Dominika 1.

Special events 12.06 Friday DBN And the party begins! DBN is a DJ trio with devotion for house music. Their single ‘Night train’ caught the attention of critics and world DJs which was then followed by remixes of releases by Avicii and Nicky Romero through to Axwell and many other resounding stars. Djani, Patrick and Tobias are the perfect trifecta to warm up Revelin’s summer agenda.QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

The Linđo Folk Ensemble The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August 25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.

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15.06 Monday - 05.09 Saturday Park Orsula Music Festival After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various Croatian and international musical performers throughout the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats and is set on a 200 metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus. A perfect combination of location and excellent music puts this Festival on everybody’s to-do list!Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

22.06 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday Stars Beneath the Stars In its 11 year running, the Adriatic Luxury Hotels group organise an intriguing music summer programme where the most attractive areas surrounding 5 star hotels (beaches, terraces, pools) turn into splendid open settings where concerts take place under the night-time sky. The combination of international music from (jazz, rock, pop, Cuban,) to prestigious Croatian musical artists makes this event sparkle.

QGardens of Grand Villa Argentina; The Palm Terrace, Hotel Excelsior; Vala Beach Club, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.

28.06 Sunday Lissat and Voltaxx Anyone familiar with the beatport top 100 will recognise this dynamic duo that has been topping the charts for almost a decade. These gents play a mixture of energetic house music filled with cool vibes and a touch of underground. With a combo of hit remixes and originals ‘Silence’, Rock the casbah’ and ‘In love’ just to name a few, they sure know how to work the crowd. New singles such as ‘Aint nobody’ and ‘Joe le taxi’ are booming around world clubs as we speak.QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 16.07 Thursday - 18.07 Saturday Revelin Festival Round two begins after last year’s astounding edition. Top world DJs mix and remix all night long in the majestic five hundred year old Revelin Fortress where some of the scenes of the hugely popular ‘Game of Thrones’ series were filmed.

These DJs, who we have dubbed as knights of the modern era include Roger Sanchez, Julian Jordan and duo Redondo, DANCElectricPHILIPE, Speed, Audiometric and others.QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin. com.

04.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Friday Summer Film School Šipan Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film professionals. Kids from the island as well as visitors produce their own films each summer and screen them in the open theatre under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg here!QŠipan port, island Šipan.

12.08 Wednesday - 15.08 Saturday Dubrovnik Electronic Festival Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club Revelin and Fedde le Grand returns for the opening night of the event. DJs from Mars deliver their mashup sound to the stage whilst Belgian DJ Marco Bailey is set to serve up his mixture of party techno, minimal and electronic house. The repertoire also includes Kryder, Saind Wknd, Audimetric, Phiberoptic and others. Let the music inspire your summer stay!QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

14.08 Friday S.A.R.S. The hugely popular Serbian alternative rock band S.A.R.S. are set to perform in one of the city’s most outstanding venues, Orsula Park; the very spot they played in 2012. Their mixture of pop rock, reggae, blues, jazz, hip hop and ethno music has earned them the swift reputation of being one of the leading acts of the new Serbian scene.QOrsula Park.

Božidar Gjukić - War Photography 1991-1992 ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 19911995 (Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu) Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn.

28.08 Friday Paul Van Dyk Ready to dance the night away! Then prepare to be amazed by the dance and trance sounds of one of the world’s first superstar DJs and Grammy Award winners.

This German giant of jam, Paul Van Dyk will use the medieval fortress walls as a contrast of modern light and splashback sound that will bring the house down.QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.

15.08 Saturday Gregory Porter Having won the Grammy Award for Best Jazz Vocal album in 2014, Porter has been defined as a vocalist of thrilling presence, a booming baritone who can finesse between jazz and soul, uplifting and unique both lyrically and melodically. Somehow the 66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival seems to have got a whole lot smoother. Jazz it up!QE-1, Revelin Fort Terrace, Sv. Dominika bb, www.dubrovnikfestival.hr.

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S.A.R.S. Photo by Filip Dizdar

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Culture & Events Classical MUSIC CONCERTS 17.04 Friday - 30.06 Tuesday Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra Dubrovnik’s affiliation with music dates back to the 16th century. In saying that, the city’s iconic symphonic orchestra was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting of concerts on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and at three breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned classical music artists who will join them on stage.

QE-1, B-2 , D-3, Fort Revelin ; Franciscan church, Placa ; Rector’s palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dso.hr.

10.07 Friday - 25.08 Tuesday 66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 66th edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, St. Blaise’s Church, Sponza Palace and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.Qwww.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

23.08 Sunday Ivo Pogorelić and the Zagreb Philharmonic Chamber Studio Often called a ‘genius’ and ‘immense talent’, Ivo Pogorelić is undoubtedly Croatia’s most renowned classical pianist whose performances have always sparked a lot of controversy for being either too innovative and/or somewhat eccentric, yet undeniably amazing. He has played numerous solo recitals across the globe and will be joined by the Zagreb Philharmonic Chamber Studio.QRector’s Palace Atrium.

26.08 Wednesday - 21.09 Monday Dubrovnik in the Late Summer Music Festival Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical

and cultural vibrancy alive. Until mid-September, a number of prestigious European musicians will perform works by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience of the Rector’s Palace.QRector’s Palace.

JAzz & Blues CONCERTS 04.09 Friday Tamara Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean music, thus creating a unique artistic expression.

The concert will be a promotion of their new album Canto amoroso.QPark Orsula, www.tamaraobrovac.com.

24.09 Thursday - 27.09 Sunday Dubrovnik International Wine&Jazz Festival Dubrovnik again becomes a jazz centrepiece with venues such as Stradun and the Rector’s Palace transformed into a stage. A grand line-up of international and local jazz musicians this year gathers around Jazz meets Broadway theme. Add to that sumptuous wine and food, it’s one event that is hard to miss.Qwww.dubrovnikwinejazz. com.

Sport events 12.07 Sunday - 16.08 Sunday Wild League – Water Polo Championships Low and behold, welcome to the largest amateur water polo competition in the world. Few argue that this city is the world capital of water polo, and over 40 teams will jump into the sea at the beginning of July ready to battle it out for the title.

10.10 Saturday - 25.10 Sunday International Tennis Tournament This prestigious tennis tournament has proven to be a breakthrough sports event for many young tennis players, both male and female, from Croatia and Europe alike. The growing number of participants and interest sparked by the media only confirms the importance of this tournament. A true ace!QF/G-3, H-2, Babin Kuk tennis centre, Ive Dulčića bb; Dubrovnik Tennis Club, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb.

Epidaurus Festival Archives

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events

Papaya Archives

Papaya Archives

Hideout - Papaya Archives

SUMMER BEATS So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight. We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north to south and will make sure you know the place, the date, and the headliners.

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds among the community in the era before mass media. That time has passed but the need to be a part of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on dancing and living!

ZAGREB Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The Garden Festival - Boat Party by Heather Shuker

the event of the season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.

ISTRIA & KVARNER We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.

NORTHERN DALMATIA So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Summer 2015

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Culture & Events Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.

From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and Felix Krocher.

Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.

From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia.

For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th . For these few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be

brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.

Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson, and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .

SOUTHERN DALMATIA And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!

Hideout - Papaya Archives

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Archeological Treasury

Narona Archeological Museum Archives

Croatian archeological destinations that should not be missed

by Jonathan Bousfield What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often one historical site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide a spur to further exploration.

Zagreb and inland Croatia Krapina The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art museum that deploys film shows, multimedia displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves – but of human evolution in general.

Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA. Vukovar One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old, three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring these European ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.

Vinkovci The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headline-grabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes a recreation of one of the dwellings.

Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings has been reconstructed.

Zadar region Asseria Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times, becoming an important administrative and trading centre under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations. It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired by Roman-era residential quarters.

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Archeological Treasury A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation, is the place to learn more about Romanera northern Dalmatia.

Šibenik region Burnum North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnum-amphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/en.html), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to have accommodated two entire legions. What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.

Split region Salona Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.

It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of earlyChristian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga.

Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/hr/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium contains one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.

Stari Grad Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty 24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region Narona Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of how to display a historically significant archeological site while at the same time making it an entertaining place to bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper levels of the museum where display cases contain coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape.

Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals

by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.

Vela Spila, Vela Luka Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’, the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr) dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Pulse

We asked locals - who live or work in Dubrovnik - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Andro Vidak Orsula Park Festival Manager and President of Ambient Croatia DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Andro: Park Orsula, of course, ha ha ha ...

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Andro: My favourite place for a day of relaxing is Lokrum.

At sunset, I recommend, however, Orsula ..

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Andro: The best way to explore Dubrovnik is to make direct and immediate contact with the locals. People with similarities will easily meet each other, no matter what ethnicity or race. I would suggest all types of activities that lead people to meet one another, to connect and share their own experiences and knowledge. From these meetings the most beautiful memories and emotions tie you to the places you have visited. We call that unmaterialistic heritage, spirit ... Material images are better and brighter when they are upgraded with this... facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Andro: The souvenirs that are offered are somehow uniform and are full of kitsch products. Tourists are faced with a multitude of trinkets that mean nothing. Personally, as a souvenir I would recommend a good bottle of Pelješac Plavac. It is a unique, authentic wine, with a taste that allows you to feel the typical spirit of this climate.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Andro: Ston oysters and lešada with red grouper fish.

Anisa Borojević Director of Communications at Gulliver Travel DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Anisa: Cafe Gallery in the Old Town is my choice whether it’s for coffee or a night out.

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Anisa: Although it is not in Dubrovnik, the Vrbova bay on the island of Šipan is definitely one of the the best places to relax, enjoy good food, the sea ...

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Anisa: Walking around the city is the best recommendation.

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Dubrovnik Pulse where you can just relax and take in the beauty. Saint Jacob’s beach is also lovely, has a great view… but a few too many stairs for some… for me it is worth it.

BARBA Restaurant Archives

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Anisa: Something from the AR atelier academic painter Antonia Rusković Radonić who in a wonderful way combines tradition and art.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Anisa: Popara (Gregada Fish Stew) at the restaurant Glorijet.

Simona Farac

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Simona: Dubrovnik is quite small… walk around the walls and side streets of the Old Town, take the cable car up to the top of the mountain for a breathtaking view of Dubrovnik at sunset, take a taxi to Lapad, and catch a taxi boat to see the small islands surrounding Dubrovnik. Kayaking around Dubrovnik seems like it would be a lovely way to see the walls of the city, but I haven’t done it yet, so I can’t really recommend it.

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Simona: The best place to shop for the ladies is definitely ‘Dubrovnik Treasures.’ For those who love jewelry, we surely have something for you. Jewelry is a great souvenir because it’s small, light and therefore easy to pack. It is something that you will wear and it won’t just sit on the shelf collecting dust. As a souvenir, I recommend buying a piece of jewelry with the ‘Dubrovnik button’ (known as the ‘Puca’) which we implement in many of our designs.

It is a traditional filigree ball which was previously used as buttons on the national dress. You could also choose a piece with the authentic local Adriatic coral. The Konavle loop earrings, known as “ Verizice’ are also a nice memento. Women would pass these earrings down from generation to generation. In our boutique you can also find more modern, unique designs all of which are handmade by local artists (including myself)! For the guys, I would suggest taking home a Croata tie, or a bottle of local wine.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Simona: I think that all visitors should definitely try the oysters at ‘Bota Sare.’ These oysters are from Mali Ston and are known to be amongst the best in the world! If you have a sweet tooth, try the Dubrovnik ‘Rozata’.

Dubrovnik Treasures DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Simona: I like to go for drinks along the water. During the day, especially at sunset, I suggest having a cocktail at the cave bar ‘More’ in Uvala Lapad (make sure to check out the cave!) If you are in the Old Town, then I would recommend ‘Buza’ Bar. If you would like to try the delicious local wines, then ‘D’Vino’ wine bar is the place to go.

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Simona: During the summer season when Dubrovnik gets busy, I like to escape from the crowds by taking a short boat ride to the island of Lokrum… Pack yourself a little picnic and you are sure to find a secluded place 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Fish Restaurant Photo Archives

Croatian Dubravka Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika, and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.QA-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). PiAUGBW

Mimoza In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

PiTAEGBW

Kopun Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, info@restaurantkopun.com, www.restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 220kn). PJAGBW

Orhan Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/(+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan. com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30.

(50 - 200kn). PJAGBW

Lady Pi-Pi Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair.QC-1, Peline bb.

Open 09:00 - 23:00 and depending on weather conditions. (65 - 150kn). JAB

Taverna Nostromo The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+38520) 41 05 25, gastro@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka. hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW

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Restaurants

Aquarius hotel&restaurant Lapad Bay - Mata Vodopica 4a 20 000 Dubrovnik

Zoe Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 150kn). PALGBW

International Bistro San Francesco If you’re looking for a traditional Italian meal then San Francesco is the place to go. They offer classic Italian meals, such as pasta, pasta and more pasta, as well as delicious fish and meat dishes. Located in a quiet and cozy side street away from the hustle and bustle of Stradun, the red-and-white checkered tablecloths and pictures of Italy and well-known Italians creates an authentic Italian-feel to the place.QC-2, Vetranićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 11, FRANCAVILLA. DU@GMAIL.COM. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TJAB Gusta me This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

p: +385 20 456 111 e: sales@hotel-aquarius.net w: www.hotel-aquarius.net

need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore.QE-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 08:30 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW Incredible India Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik! Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun, this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.

Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill up quickly.QC-2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43.

Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Korean Restaurant Onofrio Craving some Korean food during your stay in Dubrovnik?

Then stop by the Korean Restaurant, located right by the famous Onofrio fountain at the entrance to the city. They offer delicious Korean dishes, such as Spicy Pork BBQ, Spicy Stir-Fried Squid, Spicy Braised Chicken and many more. Enjoy your meal outdoors on the cool smooth stones of the Old City or indoors in the cozy interior of the restaurant.

QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 099 669 06 58. JABW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

La Castile This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, you’re in for a real treat!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (120 - 150kn). PiAGBXW Lucin kantun “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.

He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s a nice selection of desserts.QB-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (75 - 150kn).

PJAGBW

Porat Bar & Grill Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH-1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, info@poratdubrovnik.com, www.porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00–23:00. (25 - 625kn). iTABS Restaurant 360° If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful

Magellan The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (52 140kn). PAULEGBXSW Pantarul A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.

QKralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, pantarul@ pantarul.com, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). PAGW� facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Restaurants

air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°.QE-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, info@360dubrovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). PJAGBXW Taj Mahal You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/ (+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). TA6GBSW Taverna Otto This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www. tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Sun 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). PAGBXW 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Mediterranean Amfora While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19. Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAG� BXW Klarisa Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they’d always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@ klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 220kn). PTJA6UIEG� BXSW

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Restaurants Komarda A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@ gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). ABW Nautika The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings.

Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, nautika@ du.t-com.hr, www.nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGBXW Panorama Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline.

The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses!QK,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 250kn). PAGBXW

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Restaurant Klarisa Archives

Ragusa 2 This charming family-run restaurant located within the side streets of Dubrovnik has seating available outdoors under a large canopy on the narrow street or indoors in a plush and aristocracy-like environment. They offer traditional mediterranean seafood dishes, such as fresh oysters and mussels, customary appetizers of pršut and cheese, and much, much more.QC-2, Zamanjina 12, tel. (+38520) 32 16 61, ragusa2rudenjak@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn). PiAGBXW

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Restaurants Vapor The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.alh.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 250kn).

PAGBXW Zuzori This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow streets of the Old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!QC-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, info@zuzori. com, www.zuzori.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (90 - 230kn).

PJAGBXW

Konoba Bistro Popret For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and cele-

brations, such as a confirmation, first communion or small wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

Dalmatino Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City, this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Fisherman’s Stew, Truffle Pasta or Grilled Calamari with Dalmatian Sauce, from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC-3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70, info@dalmatino-dubrovnik.com, www.dalmatinodubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn).

PAGBXW Jezuite Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@gmail.com, dubrovnikrestaurant. webs.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn).

JABW Lokanda Peskarija Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.

QD-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.meaculpa.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. From July Open 11:00 01:00. (70 - 90kn). PAGBXW

Fish Restaurant Archives

Konaovski Dvori Archives

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Pupo Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a ‘walk on a wok side’ as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.QC-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+38520) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn).

JAGBXW Rozario On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www.konoba-rozario.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 168kn). PiAGBX dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Seafood Barba Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors. QBoškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.dubrovnik@gmail.com.

Open 10:00 - 02:00. (30 - 59kn). PAGW Kamenice Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). JABS Levanat This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52, restoran.levanat@gmail.com.

Open 11:00 - 23:30. (80 - 160kn). PAGBXW

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Orsan The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food.

The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+38520) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW Oyster & Sushi bar Bota This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (28 - 135kn). PJAGBXW Proto Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC-2, Široka 1, tel. (+38520) 32 32 34, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PiAG� BXW

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Restaurants

Japanese

Breakfast

Shizuku Japanese Cuisine Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik! Located in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. To quench your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake. A popular dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to call ahead for a reservation.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 1F, tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, shizuku.dubrovnik@hotmail. com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn).

PAGBW

Bistro Dubrava Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well as jam and toast. They also serve a light lunch and dinner, along with homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert.QC-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (40 55kn). PAGBXW

Vegetarian Nishta Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@ nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.

Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (63 - 85kn). JAG� BXSW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Komarda Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices.QK,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (12 - 55kn). ABW Pupica Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village. Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

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Wine bars D’vino In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino. net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW Razonoda Wine Bar This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack,

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies.

There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo beer rich in vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe in Zagreb.QC-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04, winebar@thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

PAGW

Light bites Buffet Škola A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:30 - 24:00.

(14 - 30kn). PJNGBW

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Restaurants

Cavtat Bugenvila A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, bugenvila. cavtat@gmail.com, www.bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 16:15, 18:30 - 22:45. (40 - 260kn). TALB

SYMBOL key

Galija A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! Great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW Leut One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut. com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

Koločep

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Villa Ruža The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings. Ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza.com, www.villa-ruza.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 190kn). ABXW

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Restaurants Konavle

Lastovo

Konavoska brda Located within the hills of Konavle, this recently opened restaurant is the perfect spot for a delicious traditional meal in a quaint village. Offering meat ispod peke and fish dishes with baked potatoes and hearty warm homemade soup, the trip is definitely worth it. The outdoor tables are arranged in a circle with a hay roof covering, which creates a rustic feel to the old-fashioned cozy stone atmosphere.

QStravča, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 79 00 03/(+385-) 099 674 57 92, konavoska.brda@gmail.com. Open 12:00 23:00. (50 - 90kn). ALBXW

Triton A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers.

Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, info@triton.hr, www.triton. hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). iNGBXW

Konavoski dvori Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW

Konoba Marinero If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com. hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).

ALGBW

Konavoski komin Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBXW

Mlini

Ston Bota Šare Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours.

If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters. Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).

PALGBXW Vila Koruna The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@ du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 150kn). PJALGBXW

Zaton

Konaovski Dvori Archives

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Orsan Gverović This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

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Local Flavour

Local dishes Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish – grilled meat – pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada.

There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato.

Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a Summer 2015

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Local Flavour drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative.

For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

Pelješac wines Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the loca42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour

Adriatic Photo Service Archives

tion of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards.

Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday.

Local recipes Orancini Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you don’t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar.

Leave to dry.

Bruštulane mjendule Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds, pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool before attacking.

Kotonjata From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.

Mantala A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon.

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Local Flavour

Korta Katarina Archives

THE FOODIE‘S GUIDE 23.06 Tuesday - 18.08 Tuesday Flavours of Pelješac If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the background makes for enchanting evenings.QTrpanj riva.

19.07 Sunday Korčula Wine Festival - Black Island White Wines With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine, scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to dabble!QKorčula, Korčula Island, www.visitkorcula.eu.

25.07 Saturday Cipolijada Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.

The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.QMetković, www. tzmetkovic.hr.

25.07 Saturday - 02.08 Sunday The 5th Pošip Days in Čara and Smokvica When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of Smokvica and Cara on Korčula have a well-known tradi44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

tion in wine growing and wine production dating from ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake in the art of wine tasting.QČara and Smokvica, Korčula island, www.visitkorcula.eu.

01.08 Saturday Cabbage on tabak This traditional gastronomic evening event is held every summer on the 1st of August at the ‘Pod boriće beach’ in Vela Luka, next to the ferry port. It was named after an old proverb which claims that cabbage should be eaten on that very day. Food consists of cabbage - raštika (collard greens) and potatoes prepared in a traditional way, cooked and seasoned with olive oil. Grilled sardines, homemade cakes and wine are also on the table for all visitors, accompanied with live music.QPod boriće, Vela Luka.

09.08 Sunday Makarunada This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to make ‘makaruni’, a particular home-made pasta native to the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the food is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered.

Live outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic Mediterranean atmosphere!QŽrnovo, Korčula, www. visitkorcula.eu. Starts at 19:00.

03.09 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday Kinookus - The Food Film Festival The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity, ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture with this year’s theme being ‘Bread and wine’.QSton, Pelješac, kinookus@ gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour 02.10 Friday - 04.10 Sunday Festival of Jam and Marmalade Tender to your sweet tooth as you venture to the heart of the old town, on Stradun in fact and in front of St. Blaise’s Church. The festival will also serve as a tourist attraction since exhibitors will come from all Croatian counties and dressed in their traditional costumes, presenting their native delicacies, homemade jam and marmalade products.

QSt. Blaise’s Church.

23.10 Friday - 25.10 Sunday Good Food Festival Want to learn how to make the traditional Dubrovnik sweet ‘gulozece’ or have dinner with a famous chef? For three days Dubrovnik will be enthralled by pure culinary delights with events ranging from the presentation of food specialties of the Dubrovnik region to cooking workshops, wine tastings, and the promotion of cookbooks in English, ‘Eat & Walk’, a gastro tour and ‘Sweet Tooth Map’.

QDubrovnik Old Town various locations.

25.10 Sunday Lumblija Days Sweet bread called ‘Lumblija’ is certainly one of the more delicious traditions in Blato. Legend has it that its origins stem from the time of Napoleon. For the past four years, just before All Saints Day, a special event called the ‘Lumblija Days’ is held with an exhibition and competition for the making and tasting of the best ‘Lumblija’, which involves a dozen or so families from Blato who prepare this unique delicacy.QBlato, Island of Korčula.

Become a wine connoisseur Dubrovnik - Wine recommendations A sommelier Jelena’s recommendations of which wines to tickle your taste buds!

Winemaker Crvik, Konavle: Dubrovnik’s Malvasia TezoroA white wine, dry, mineral, fruity and full-bodied. A fantastic white from the Dubrovnik region and thanks to its rich character, it nicely complements food.

Andro Crvik, winemaker: Pomet Plavac mali selection A great Plavac and highly recommended. Extremely fruity on the nose, shades of smoke and prunes emphasised.

Complex, medium to strong in body, beautifully fresh and soft. Maintains a long lasting finish and has great potential for aging.

Solana Ston Archives

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Dubrovački podrumi, Gruda: Dubrovački podrumi Plausus Plausus is a premium wine from Plavac mali, it is of exquisite elegance and fullness. Recognisable by the variety of aromas. Intense in flavour, nicely balanced, strong body and a rich long finish. A wine which demands powerful food. It’s a top quality indigenous wine and the most important red grape sort in Croatia.

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Local Flavour If in the village Vid… A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the mints!

Povitica Cheesecake A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).

Rab or Lošinj If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you not!

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Tips for hungry travellers Homemade makes for the best flavour of all! In this section, you will find the pure essence of gastronomy specific to the region, from age-old recipes prepared during the era of Kings and noble families to ordinary dishes that the Nona’s cook best.

Baškotin A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!

Benkovačka vara Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.

Cheese to please!

Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their very doorstep.

Have you ever eaten dormice?

Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.

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Show us some mussels Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!

Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!

The island of Ist, ist good!

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majolino!

Try Pipi When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in our Shopping category!

Vis or Komiža bread?

A dilemma that’s been debated for centuries is best to be solved on the island of Vis. What’s so salty…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

What to have for breakfast…

Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Belfast Celtic Bar ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG-2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 06:30 02:00. P6NBXW Fashion Café In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 02:00. P6NGBXW Festival This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00. PAG� BW Galerie One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC-2, Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW Glam Café If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies.

In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails.QC2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 02:00. PJ6NGBXW Libertina (Lući) Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.

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atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QUska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07, antuntun_5@ yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PA6EG� BXW Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebardubrovnik@gmail.com, www.hotel-more.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW

SWEET TREATS Dolce vita This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun.

QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66.

Open 09:00 - 24:00. PNB Pupica Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia.QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PiNGBW Yogomania This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy your sweet tooth.QB-2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija. papak@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJNGBW

Soul Caffe This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Bars Art Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.com. Open 09:00 02:00. GBXW Buža What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com.

Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions.

B Mirage On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.QC-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

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Onofrio Ice Bar Brrrr, it’s cold in here! Onofrio Ice Bar is made completely out of ice- the bar, the seats and even the glasses! Ice statues of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, and the famous Orlando, adorn the small space. Don’t worry about freezing because they provide you with a jacket to keep you warm, even during the hot days when you’re looking for a place to cool off from the sweltering Mediterranean sun.QPoljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 02 57. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBXW Rock Caffe Exit Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2. Open 19:00 02:00. Jul - Sep open 19:00 - 03:00. PENXW

Lounge bars Culto Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 04:00. PABXW

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife

Pubs

Clubs

Arch Pub As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep.QC-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, archpub@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW

Culture Club Revelin Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE-1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com.

Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAGW

Gaffe Pub It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City, the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most other local stockists of the ‘black stuff’. We won’t let this spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of a, well, gaffe.QC-3, Miha Pracata 4. Open 09:00 - 01:00.

From July Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJ6GBXW

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Lazareti These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL-2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From July Open 22:00 - 05:00.

Closed Sun.

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Sightseeing

Stradun by Boris Kačan

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in 52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00.QD-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.

Lokrum Island You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn.

Stradun, Placa When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C-2.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QD-3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. August open from 07:00 24:00. No admission.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these

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Sightseeing

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gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qwww. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00-19:30 , Aug 08:00-19:00, Sep 08:00-18:30, Oct 08:00-17:30. Admission 30 - 100kn.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QB-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.tcom.hr, www.malabraca.wix.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 15 - 30kn.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

Churches Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata) To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street.

There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in English is held on Sundays at 11:00. QC-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.QD-2, Zlatarska.

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.QD-2, Sv. Dominika.

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The Cathedral (Katedrala) The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a selfportrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.QD-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.

Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.QB-2, Placa bb. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna crkva) Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan.QC-3, Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83, spco@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Church Admission free.

Museums Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik.

The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.

QE-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+38520) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu.

Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD-2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 35kn.

DUBROVNIK

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was

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Sightseeing a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

Photo by Ivana Stanesic

Galleries Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

Otok Gallery, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are 58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.

Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD-3, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 32, dad@dad.hr, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 19:00. Admission 25kn.

War Photo Limited A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images.QC-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 40kn.

Landmarks Boninovo cliffs It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Cable Car The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Adults 108kn, Children under 12 50kn, Children under 4 free.

Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today.

The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D-3.

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Onofrio’s Fountains – Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and Summer 2015

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Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

Revelin Fortress Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any publicconstruction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger.

Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region.

Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Wed. Unified ticket.

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to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD-2, Pred Dvorom.

Orsula Park There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

The Aquarium (Akvarij) Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed.QE-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 60kn.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.

Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD-3, Pred Dvorom.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 1.

Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

The City Harbour (Gradska luka) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard.

It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E-2/3.

The Lazaret (Lazareti) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL-5.

Photo by Ivana Stanesic

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Maps & Index

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Ston Tourist Archives Maps &BoardIndex A. Barca A. Hallera A. Hebranga A. Kazali A. Šenoe A.G. Matoša A.T. Mimare Antuninska Aquarium Arhiv Asimon Bernarda Shawa Babin Kuk Bandureva Banjska Batahovina Batala Biokovska Bokar Bokeljska Boninovo Bosanka Bo�atska Branitelja Dubrovnika Brdasta Brgatska

H-2,3 J-2,3 I-2 H-1/I-2/J-2 H-2 J-2 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-4 I-2 C-2 E-3 D-2 E-1 L-2 K-2 G-2 D-4 I-3 G-1 H-2/I-2 G-2 A-3 G-1 J-3 L-2 C-2 I-2 D-4 J-3 J-2 L-2

Brsalje

A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2

Bu�a Cavtatska

C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2,3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera

Dr�avna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska D�amija

F. Prešerna F. Supila

Garište Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Hladnica Hodiljska Hvarska

Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

J. Berse Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kardinala Stepinca Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Kne�ev dvor Komajska Konavoska Koritska Kotorska Kralja Tomislava Kunska L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

VIVADO (arrival ili what to see)

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Maps & Index Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina

H,I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2

Metohijska Miha Pracata

Luka Dubrovnik

H-1

Ljubuška

H-1

Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono

M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca

K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2

N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Napice Neumska

Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

G-3 G-3 H-2 C-3 F, G-3

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Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H,I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 C-3 H,I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba �udioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1,2/J-2 I,J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C,B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Krešimira IV Padre Perice Paska Baburice Peline Pelješka Petilovrijenci Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J,K-3 H-1 C,D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Maps & Index Pomoraca Pomorski muzej Porat Porporela Posat Postranjska Pred Dvorom Prelazna Pridvorska Prijeko Primorska Prive�na Puljizeva Put od Bosanke

H-1 E-4 E-3 E-3,4 E-2 I-2 D-3 B-3 J-2 B-2,3/C-2 G-2 J-2 B-3 L-2

Revelin

E-1

Ribarnica

D-2

Savska Sinjska Slanska

G-3 I-2 G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Kri�a Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2/K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika Sv. Josipa Sv.Nikole Šetalište kralja Zvonimira

D-2 B-3 H-1 G,H-2

Vladimira Nazora Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Velika Petka

Šibenska Šipanska

G-2 H-1 I-2 C-2 J-2 C-3 I-2 E-2 I-2 G-1 G-2 K-3 I-2 H-1 F-3 H-2 H-2 C-3,4 K-2 B-1 K-2

Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska

Široka Tivatska Tmušasta Topolska Trg oru�ja Trpanjska Trstenska U pilama Uvala Gru� Uvala Sumartin Uz Giman Uz Glavicu Uz Jezuite Uz mline Uz posat Uz tabor

Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska �udioska �uljanska �upska

J-2 G-2 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J,K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2,3 B-3,4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

IMMERSE YOURsELF BY DISCOVERING THIS MAGICAL REGION, ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND ITS RICH CULTURAL AND AUTOChTHONIC FOOD OFFER

Korčula Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik Surroundings North of dubrovnik

Pelješac Peninsula

The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.

Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Konavle Tourist Board Archives

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Dubrovnik Surroundings On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

Orebić Tourist Board QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

brovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

Ston Tourist Board QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@ du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. October Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

The Walls of Ston QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. +385 (0)20 638 800/+385 (0)20 638 801/802, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00 - 19:30 ; Aug 08:00 - 19:00 ; Sep 08:00 - 18:30 ; Oct 08:00 - 17:30. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

The walls of Ston

Neretva

In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Du-

If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković,

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70 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP

SKRADINSKI BUK

MILJACKA SLAP

VISOVAC

MANASTIR KRKA

BURNUM

info@npk.hr • www.np-krka.hr

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Metković Tourist Board Archives

where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Metković Tourist Board QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, info@tzmetkovic.hr, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

South of dubrovnik South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.

If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built respectively.

From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin word ‘canalis’, referring to water channels that used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).

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Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com. hr, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

Tourist Board of Konavle QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The Sivi soko viewpoint Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

Sokol tower Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 40kn.

Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Kon-

Konavle Embroidery - Croatian Traditional Costumes Facebook Page

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avle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made

AgrItourism Agroturizam Laptalo Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).

QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

IK Konoba Vinica - Monković family Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat.

If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PALB 74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.

The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are wellmarked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Islands The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, invaluable.

The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula is also known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of the walls that surround it.

The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.

With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure offers.

The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life all the more special.

The Elafiti Islands Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and

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accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent

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restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

Mljet Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija fer76 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet). Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.

Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.QPristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, np-mljet@ np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.

Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).

Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too.

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway.

Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements.

In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.

A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.

Mljet Tourist Board Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www. mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tz-mljet@ du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Lastovo Tourist Board Archives Photo by Stjepan Tafra

But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Korčula City Museum QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@ du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. July - September 15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn per person, for groups 15kn per person.

Korčula Tourist Board QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, info@ visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched 78 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, tz-lastovo@du.t-com. hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings Events 04.06 Thursday - 08.10 Thursday Moreška Sword Dance A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreška was common across Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of swords.QKorčula.

06.06 Saturday - 27.09 Sunday The Cavtat Summer Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first weekend in July.

All the events are for free.QCavtat, Main Square.

15.06 Monday - 29.06 Monday Konavle Art, ‘Word & Music Festival’ With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only included classical music concerts, the repertoire these days includes performances in other musical genres as well as theatre shows, film screenings, art pop music and exhibitions. Each year the increasing number of visitors and positive feedback testify to the large success of this only such festival in the Konavle area!QVarious locations.

19.06 Friday Sword Dance Festival On guard! As this event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of Korčula’s sword dance societies called ‘Kumpanjija’ perform a type of chain dance with swords dating back as early as the 12th century. Come and see this amazing battle dance that carries the universal message of good overcoming bad.QKorčula.

26.06 Friday - 04.09 Friday Kumpanjija and old folklore dances from Smokvica Chivalry is back and better than ever on the island of Korčula. Ever since the 16th century locals would partake in the Kumpanija and Moštra (chain and sword dances) which have become a staple of the island’s heritage and are still performed in several places. The skills, technique and flair as well as the costumes worn are quite a sight.QSmall Market, Smokvica, island of Korčula. Every Friday at 21:00. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

01.07 Wednesday - 31.08 Monday Summer on the Elaphite Islands Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cultural event has for a number of years been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QKoločep, Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac.

04.07 Saturday - 05.07 Sunday Cavtat Summer Carnival Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you wanna be in the last week of July. Locals and guests go all out and dress in costume, glitter and glare.

Stages big and small are aplenty with live bands, street entertainers, jugglers, performers, and folk and a cappella groups that turn the whole town into a magical haven.QCavtat, Main Square.

17.07 Friday Jumping into the Neretva A ‘Jumping Competition’ that attracts a large number of viewers is held next to the Lučki Bridge in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the young and the old. Special attention is paid to the ‘craziest jump’ category.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings 25.07 Saturday Night of Folklore The wonderful old town of Ston is best known for its saltworks and especially its famous seven kilometre long walls made of stone. It is also the host to a traditional night of folklore dances and songs from all Croatian regions.QMain Square, Ston, www.ston.hr.

29.07 Wednesday St. Theodore’s Day Nothing can hinder the beauty of this grand old tradition which highlights the influence of Christianity on the island. Three religious orders still thrive there so a holy procession is held with particular candles that are carried and named according to weight ‘Zero, Primo and others’.

The highlight is the ‘Moreška’, a double sword dance dating from the 17th century which depicts a spectacular battle. See the sparks fly as swords clash, a symbol of the island’s freedom struggle.QKorčula, Main Square.

08.08 Saturday The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means of transport. each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww.maraton-ladja.hr.

05.09 Saturday - 12.09 Saturday Korkyra Baroque Festival Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can choose from concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the USA, UK, Belgium, Russia, Greece and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style, come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!QKorčula and Lumbarda, www.korkyrabaroque.com.

09.09 Wednesday - 19.09 Saturday Epidaurus festival Created eight years ago, and run ever since by the pianist Ivana Marija Vidović, this festival attracts a multitude of classical and jazz musicians. Featuring theatre shows, operas, art exhibits, and a young talent series in an attractive open air venue.QCavtat, Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www. epidaurusfestival.com.

20.09 Sunday Ston Wall Marathon This unique marathon race takes place in the equally unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very own pace.QSton.

Korčula Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Neven Fazinic

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Leisure Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering halfor full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

Adventure Adventure Dalmatia Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, dubrovnik@adventuredalmatia.com, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Dubrovnik Adventures Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey, you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, info@dubrovnikadventures.com, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Kojan koral Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland. Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.

QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@ kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Big game fishing Big Game Fishing Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www. biggamedubrovnik.com. Open by prior arrangement. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Leisure

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Cycling Teuta QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/(+385) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz. Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

Scuba Diving Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre QG-2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving. hr@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 18:00. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A

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Blue Planet For info out of season call 091 899 09 73.QF-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanet-diving.com, www.blueplanet-diving. com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Diving Club Dubrovnik On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.QG/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Tennis Dubrovnik Tennis Club QH-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn.

Dubrovnik's premier boutique spa!

•OPI Manicures• •OPI Pedicures• •Massages• •Dermalogica Facials• •Dermalogica Body Treatments• •Dermalogica Retail Products• FIND US AT 1st Floor Berkeley Hotel Andrije Hebranga 116a Dubrovnik +385 20 494 163 www.spaberkeley.com

82 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Shopping Bland souvenir shops are gradually taking over Dubrovnik’s main thoroughfares, and if you really think that a ceramic mug bearing the word ‘Dubrovnik’ is going to look good in someone’s kitchen cupboard back home, then you certainly won’t have too much trouble finding one.

Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town.

One of the most authentic local products is jewellery. Jewellery was an integral part of local folk costume and also played an important part in local family ritual, with female children receiving earrings at baptism and at other important stages in their lives.

It was traditionally around Zlatarska ulica (Goldsmiths’ Street) that the main jewellery workshops were to be found, although these days they are more randomly scattered throughout the Old Town. What hasn’t changed is that the jewellery sold in the filigree shops has often been made on the premises by local artisans, using traditional folk designs as inspiration. Especially attractive are traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, and large hoop- or drop-earrings adorned with baubles.

Konavle, the region southeast of Dubrovnik, produces a distinctive style of embroidery, rich in brightly coloured geometric shapes. Dazzling white blouses with intricately embroidered borders were once a standard form of female attire, and items like these can still be picked up on souvenir stalls. Konavle embroidery is also used to decorate more modern items such as tablecloths and handkerchiefs.

Dubrovnik’s souvenir shops also sell a great deal of quality products that are common to the whole of Croatia, especially food-and-drink items such as natural honey, olive oil and herb-flavoured rakijas. One of the best places to pick up these is the daily outdoor market on Gundulićeva poljana, although most delicatessens in town also carry a good selection.

Accessories Art Go’Den A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel and Valamar Dubrovnik President.

QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 099 314 84 11, enter-dubrovnik.doo@du.tcom.hr, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A Magnolika Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky tshirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically here in Croatia.QB-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885 69 10, magnolika.art@gmail.com, www.magnolika. com. Open Tu - Fri 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 ; Sat 10:00 - 13:00 ; Sun & Mon cls. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Shopping Art galleries AR Atelier 2 A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 21Research completed: Feb 25 15, 3.00pm by Eli/(+385) 091 201 19 99, antonia.ruskovic@gmail.com, www. antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Artur A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com, www.arturgallery. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. A Heritage Gallery & Shop A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique. hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00. A

Workshop Be Craft This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.

QL-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. A

chIC & CHEERFUL Cvijet by Kike For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.

QG-2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www. cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

cigar shop La Casa del Habano Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Republic.QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62, dubrovnik@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr.

Open 12:00 - 00:00. A

Homa Gallery A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC-2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.

Open 10:00 - 16:00. Open from March. N

Delicatessen

Klarisa Gallery Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yaResearch completed: Feb 25 15, 3.40pm by Elihoo.com.

Open 12:00 - 21:00. Jul - Nov open 11:00 - 24:00. A

Franja coffee & teahouse A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www. franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A

Romana atelier Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romana-milutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 21:00. A Sv. Luka See works of Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque church dating back to the 9th century.QC-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 03/(+385-) 098 61 79 37, bkurilic@ globalnet.hr. Open Jul - Oct 10:00 - 22:00. A 84 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovačka kuća A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški cheese from sheep’s milk.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, info@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. AGB

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Shopping Kraš The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+38520) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open Jun/Sep 08:00 - 22:00 ; Jul - Aug Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Oleoteka Uje Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC-2, Placa bb, Stradun, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. April 09:00 21:00, May 09:00 - 23:00, June - October 09:00 - 00:00, November 10:00 - 17:00. A Škar Winery Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.

The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed! QH-2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

Vinoteka Miličić Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Open Jun 09:00 21:00; Jul - Sep 09:00 - 23:00; Oct 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A

DESIGNER CLOTHING

Modni kantun A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

A XD Xenia Design Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open through the year 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun cls. ; Jul - Aug 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00 - 12:00. A

Jewellery Clara Stones Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA Dubrovnik Treasures Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality jewelry for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewelry, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewelry is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

QB-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www.dubrovniktreasures. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Croatian Designers Room Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.QC-3, Od puča 11. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 21:00 ; Jul - Aug 10:00 - 22:00.

A

Križek This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Maria If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@mariastore. hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 20:00 ; Jul - Aug 10:00 - 24:00. A

Souvenirs

86 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Baboon Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.

QI-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com, www. suvenirnica-baboon.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W

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DUTY FREE SHOP www.airport-dubrovnik.hr tel: +385 (20) 773-333

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Shopping

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

Bačan Handmade Products Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale.QD-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21, lena.janjalija@dubrovnikportal.com. Open 09:30 15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN Duty Free Shop One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.

The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Palma Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Tilda Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, tildadubrovnik@gmail.com, www.tildadubrovnik.com.

Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Waxing lyrical Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@ vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com.

Medusa Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the spongefishing island of Krapanj.QB/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www. medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Museum shop The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.

QD-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. AW 88 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

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Hotels 5 stars Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton. com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com.

147 rooms (147 doubles). From €250 per room/per night.

P T J H A 6 U F L G B K D CwW hhhhh Importanne Hotels & Resort QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. 291 rooms (212 doubles €150 - 300, 79 apartments €190 - 600). PZi� HARUFLGBKDCwW Kazbek QH-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €139 - 445, 1 suite €226 - 404). PZHA6LGK� DCW hhhhh Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos. com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000).

PZiTHAUFLGB� KDCwW hhhhh The Pucić Palace QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+38520) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www. thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €230 - 300, 16 doubles €355 - 560, 1 suite €780 - 970, 1 Junior Suite €560 - 690). PZTJAR6GBKW hh� hhh

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

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Valamar Dubrovnik President QF-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 286 rooms (286 doubles €159 - 438).

PiHARUFLGBKDCwW hh� hhh

4 stars Lapad QH-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr. 163 rooms (4 singles €77 - 153, 153 doubles €110 - 234, 4 suites €190 - 333, 2 Junior Suites €158 304). PiHAULGBKCW hhhh Uvala QG-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €76 108, 6 triples €61 - 86). Prices are per person per night.

PHAIFLGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Argosy QF-1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €99 - 270).

P iTHARUFLEGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik QF-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 385 rooms (385 doubles €129 - 311).

PiHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh

3 stars Aquarius QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www. hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €85 - 124, 8 doubles €120 - 176, 4 triples €168 - 245, 4 suites €140 208). PiAULGBKW hhh Berkeley QJ-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel. hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (22 doubles €80 180, 2 apartments €110 - 235). PiALGCW hhh Komodor QG-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40 - 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67). Prices are per person per night. PHALEBKCW hhh Summer 2015

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Hotels Lero QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+38520) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotel-lero.hr.

159 rooms (150 doubles €90 - 156, 9 apartments €138 - 248). PiHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhh Petka QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms (8 singles €84 - 100, 96 doubles €110 - 140). PiHARLGBKW hhh Tirena QF-2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+38520) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €83 - 215). Pi� HAR6LGBKCW hhh Valamar Club Dubrovnik QF-2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+38520) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €95 - 221). PiTA� R6ULGBKCW hhh Vis QG-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles €40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66).

PALEGBKW hhh

facebook.com/ dubrovnikinyourpocket Hostels Dubrovnik Youth Hostel QI-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 1517), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds, 130 - 235kn per person. ARGBKW Fresh Sheets QB-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.freshsheetshostel.com.

16 dorm beds, 18 - 40€ per person. AGW Vila Micika QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www. vilamicika.hr. 16 dorm beds, 36 - 52€ per person.

PA6GW 90 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Directory Banks & Exchanges

Pets

Erste&Steiermarkische Bank QI-2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 072 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Bobanović Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Hypo-alpe-adria bank QI-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-) 072 10 11 02, www. hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. OTP banka Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 072 20 13 16.QI-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 072 20 12 00, www.otpbanka. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka QI-2, Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 72 00 70, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen bank QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Sberbank QI-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www. sberbank.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.QI-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 45, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 15, www.zaba.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Amo Wash & Dry QI-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. Elegant Dry cleaners.QI-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

Fauna Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .

Gruž QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće QB-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. Open 07:00 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod zvonika QC-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad QG/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office QI-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette Retro self-service laundromat. Group drop-off service available only upon request.QE-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@ dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg), 25kn per 30 minutes.

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