Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No19

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Summer 2016

Secret Islands Where real food, wine and culture survived Marco Polo The first explorer to bond the east and west Paths of Salt From the Roman Empire to now, salt is still as valued as ever

N°19 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

1-DayCard

3-DayCard

7-DayCard

Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides No charge for children up to 12 y.o.

www.dubrovnikcard.com Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6

A warm welcome with a wow factor

Arrival & Getting Around

7

SOS! Have no fear, DIYP is here

City Basics

11

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Croatia’s Secret Islands

13

Top 5 islands you must see

Culture & Events

15

Festivities both new and old

Marco Polo

22

Merchant and adventurer

Dubrovnik Pulse Feel the heartbeat of the city

23

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli To discover and experience Croatia’s pristine beauty check p. 13

Restaurants 24 Spilling the beans of where to eat Local Flavour

37

Authentic dishes and wine

Coffee & Cakes

42

Giving you a slice of the pie

Nightlife

45

Disco inferno

Sightseeing

49

Special places for special moments

Paths Of Salt 59 A lasting tradition of natural wealth

Maps & Index

City Centre Map Street Register City Map Dubrovnik county map

60 61 62 65

Dubrovnik Surroundings 66

Out and about

Leisure

76

Recreational pleasure

Shopping Solana Ston Archives

78

The more the merrier

Grain by grain and the paths of salt were made p. 59

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Summer 2016 5

Foreword Dear travellers, do you know how good you have it right here in Dubrovnik? You can drop off your luggage, grab your towels, and head for the sea as soon as you arrive, you can sip coffee or drink cocktails under palm trees all day long. Yet, this wasn’t the case for visitors back in the 15th century, it was all due to the building of the ‘Minceta tower’ where there was a short supply of stone and as such it was decreed that every visitor to the city had to bring a stone in accordance with their body’s constitution.

Imagine that! Thankfully, we won’t have you do as such, if you build anything, it will probably be some nifty sandcastles at most.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 557 38 27, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja

On that note we welcome to the Jewel of the Adriatic, the fortified city of Dubrovnik, one of the ten best preserved medieval walled cities in the world. Summer is peak season with many tourists flocking to see the city and we at IYP are here to help your stay, be better than OK!

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Community Manager Eli Gajinov Design Lovro Boljat Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Solana Ston by Nenad Reberšak Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov

Our feature summer edition is compact with lots of handy information to help you get around. We have a feature on the top 5 islands to visit whilst in Croatia, our meticulous panel will have you island hopping in no time. We also have a ‘Top 5 gifts for hungry travellers’ special with authentic products from the Adriatic Coast, perfect for a souvenir or gift. Our Food Guide ought to help those rumbling tummies settle, whilst wine lovers will appreciate the Pelješac wines from this region. Read up on Marco Polo where it is believed that he was born on the nearby island of Korčula. See what’s hot and what’s not in terms of nightlife and the inevitable café culture that is second nature to local folk.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

It can get extremely hot here so make sure you‘slip, slap and slop’ that sun cream, make sure you see as much of Dubrovnik as you can, and make sure you take the time to sit and appreciate the beautiful surroundings you have found yourselves. From us all here at IYP, we wish you a super summer stay!

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www. airport-dubrovnik.hr.

EUROPEAN COASTAL AIRLINES Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline. At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​

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QDubrovnik Airport Čilipi, Konavle, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Lastovo Obala lastovskih ribara 4, Ubli, tel. (+385-20) 80 50 50, lastovo@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Vela Luka Obala 4, Vela Luka, tel. (+385-20) 81 20 31, velaluka@ ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, where they will also have a ticket office.

And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

ARRIVING BY BUS The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa-

Summer 2016 7

Arrival & Getting Around tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, kolodvor@libertasdubrovnik.com, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.

ARRIVING BY BOAT There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik's hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www. gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, ag.dubrovnik@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 18:30 - 20:30. July - August Open Mon, Wed, Fri 06:30 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 21:00.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check the sailing schedule here. Tickets can be bought at Avansa Travel (Open 09:00 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:00.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, ivana.tomic@krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr.

ARRIVING BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics (see p. 11).

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).

You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding.

Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

The best way to enjoy Dubrovnik

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contact: 0993332829 0914191452

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fishing

private excursions-transfers fishing excursions www.dubrovnikboatcharter.com

fishing

LIBERTAS QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, libertas@libertasdubrovnik.com, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr.

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it's not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town's Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you're in, and the season.

TRANSFERS AVANTGARDE SERVICE QH‑1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 31 37 89/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi.com, www.dubrovniktransferi.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A TAXI AND TRANSPORTATION SERVICE DUBROVNIK QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 091 332 20 22, info@ taxidubrovnik.hr, www.dubrovnikairporttaxi.com. Advance notice required if paying by credit card. A

TRAVEL AGENCIES

TAXI

GULLIVER TRAVEL Also at G-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23.

April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 27kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

TIC DUBROVNIK TOURIST AGENCY QB‑2, Placa 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 50, tic@tic.hr, www. tic.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J­A

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VIVADO QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N Summer 2016 9

Arrival & Getting Around TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

June - September Open 07:00 - 20:00.

LAPAD QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

June - September Open 08:00 - 21:00.

LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured. lopud@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

July - August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. June - September Open 08:00 - 21:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, ured. sipan@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From June Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July - August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

HERTZ Also at the Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, info@rent-acar.hr, www.rent-a-car.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A UNI RENT Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, dubrovnik@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

TOWED AWAY If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

QSanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, 64 01 35, info@sanitat.hr, www.sanitat.hr

ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured.zaton@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. June - Spetember Open 08:00 - 20:00.

CAR RENTAL AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, dubrovnik.apt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www. carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović

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City Basics CUSTOMS As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

VISAS Since Croatia had become the member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time.

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In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department.

Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Summer 2016 11

City Basics buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new

TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you're a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff's efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn't it?

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcafé culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Croatia’s Secret Islands

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.

SUSAK Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.

In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.

Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment. Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring. Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to restore fertility.

Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the more intriguing Croatian islands!

SILBA With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love back home.

Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujević-Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.

Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.

PRVIĆ Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.

Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the coast.

Among the children who have been lucky to spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum. ŠOLTA Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time.

Summer 2016 13

Croatia’s Secret Islands Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina.

Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts.

Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.

Koločep The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!

Lopud For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon

by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel.

Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants. Šipan The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service!

Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service.

Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

5 GIFTS FOR HUNGRY LOVED ONES One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what better gift for those back home than something to nibble?

1. Ground Wild Fennel The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-) 91 588 84 09, marica.marasovic@gmail.com.

2. The Captain’s Cookies Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries. Contact: mantunovic87@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77 Marija Antunović.

3. Pag and Brač Island Cheese Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole country.

Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands.

Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Brač, aktiva.brac@gmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, (+385-) 91 594 52 79.

4. Lumblija Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as “lumblija”, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, iskravlasich@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.

5. Salt Petals Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr.

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Le Petit Festival du Théatre Archives

The Culture Trip ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN DUBROVNIK AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... FROM CLASSIC AND TRADITIONAL, TO URBAN AND ACTIVE

Culture & Events 10.07 SUNDAY - 25.08 THURSDAY 67TH DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 67th edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, in front of the St. Blaise's Church, Stradun, Lazareti and the Rector's Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.QVarious locations, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 15.12. 2015 TUESDAY - 15.12. THURSDAY 2016 UNDER PRESSURE Become a sea expert at the Natural History Museum of Dubrovnik where this all-year-round exhibition offers a thorough insight into what's under the sea in the Adriatic. Totally wild and totally made for adult and child, lots of visuals, fun and facts can be found without having to get all too wet!QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, ana.cucevic@gmail.com, www.pmd.hr.

Midsummer Scene Archives - Photo by Andy Barker

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS

29.01 FRIDAY - 03.10 MONDAY DIVE A love for the sea, a passion for diving and a favourite hobby in photography has allowed Dalibor Andres to merge all of the above into this one spectacular exhibition. Andres has won numerous awards, had publications of photographs in various magazines, books and international salons, and has participated in many festivals and competitions at home and abroad. See the best of the Adriatic through his lens…QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, ana.cucevic@gmail.com, www.pmd.hr.

03.06 FRIDAY - 27.09 TUESDAY DUBROVNIK SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA Dubrovnik's affiliation with music dates back to the 16th century. In saying that, the city's iconic symphonic orchestra was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting of concerts on Tuesdays and Fridays in June and July, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays in August and September at breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned classical music artists who will join them on stage.

QD‑3 , K‑3, Rector's Palace ; Fort Lovrijenac, www.dso.hr.

Concerts start at 20:30.

01.05 SUNDAY - 30.10 SUNDAY EX YUGOSLAVIA The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. This permanent collection of images presents some of the world's leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo.

Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd. com, www.warphotoltd.com.

01.07 FRIDAY - 06.07 WEDNESDAY DUBROVNIK INTERNATIONAL OPERA FESTIVAL HOMMAGE 'TINO PATTIERA' If opera moves you, fulfils you, inspires you, then the beginning of July will grace you. As always, the festival brings back to life some of the best arias ever written and will be performed by some of the finest and most respected opera artists of our day. All this in memory of the world famous Croatian tenor, Tino Pattiera!QD‑3, Atrium of the Rector's Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www.dubrovnikopera-festival.com.

01.05 SUNDAY - 30.07 SATURDAY THE BALKAN ROUTE BY GIULIO PISCITELLI As current as ever ‘www.warphotoltd.com' release photos from all around the world which mark the trials and tribulations of people. This photo exhibition is dedicated to the refugees and migrants from Syria and its neighbouring countries from their arrival on the Greek Islands of Lesbos and Kos, to their way along the Balkan Route, fleeing the terror of war and hardships in their own countries with the dream of a better and safer life in Europe.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd. com, www.warphotoltd.com.

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events 06.05 FRIDAY - 07.07 THURSDAY SAINT BLAISE IN ITALY: PLACES OF WORSHIP, CULT AND CELEBRATION What St. Peter is to the Vatican is what St. Blaise is to Dubrovnik, literally everything. And on the occasion of the 1700th anniversary of his martyrdom, this exhibition is based on several themes, folk rituals and customary practices in 45 different Italian cities. Features include liturgical aspects of worship, statues, relics, rituals, feasts, and festive food and ceremonies, thus exemplifying his international following!QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr.

JUNE - JULY DUBROVNIK MEDALS Gold, silver or bronze! Medals mark effort, respect, and recognition, and this exhibition by the Cultural History Museum of Dubrovnik Museums presents 210 medals related to the city, its people and events, and is part of their precious medal collection as well as from private collections.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, www.dumus.hr. J 06.06 MONDAY - 24.07 SUNDAY RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION: MILA KUMBATOVIĆ (1915 – 2004) Art historian, Ivanka Reberski is a guru when it comes to the works of Mila Kumbatović and has therefore put together her oeuvre spanning fifty years of diverse creativity.

According to the author, Kumbatović's career was marked by various changes particularly in moving away from direct experiential native landscape to the rocky surface and microstructure of stone on the island of Krk, all the way through to the cosmic galaxy.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

13.06 MONDAY - 03.07 SUNDAY PHOTO_GRAZ SELECTION 014 Exhibition Selection 014 by the Associations Kulturvermittlung Steiermark and the Cultural City Network Graz presents a selection of 27 photographic works that clearly demonstrate a huge variety of photographic scenes. The exhibition compares working modes by different age groups and reflects their current topics and personal approaches.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti. com.

23.06 THURSDAY - 07.08 SUNDAY VLADO MARTEK United though parted, Vlado Martek pays homage to one of Croatia’s stalwarts in art, Boris Demur, both of whom along with four other friends came to light in the 70s mostly due to public performances that were interactive and unconventional at the time. The fundamental feature of Martek’s work in this case is the connection of language and fine arts in drawings, photographs, objects, images, actions, performances and installations.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

JULY - SEPTEMBER IZNIK - OTTOMAN CERAMICS FROM THE DEPTHS OF THE ADRIATIC Historians/archaeologists take note, here’s an exhibition that presents valuable archaeological material from a merchant ship that was sunk at the end of the 16th century near St. Paul, along the island of Mljet. The exhibition is organised in cooperation with the Croatian Conservation Institute, the Mimara Museum and the Institute of Yunus Emre. It’s not Titanic, but it’s epic!QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr. J JULY - OCTOBER RECTOR’S PALACE IN DUBROVNIK A true insight into one of the cities grand buildings, if not the most important public building in Dubrovnik that held the seat of political power of the Dubrovnik Republic, on the occasion of the 580th anniversary of the start of its construction.

A set of museum souvenirs inspired by the Rector’s Palace will also be made available.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, www.dumus.hr. J 13.07 WEDNESDAY - 22.07 FRIDAY SCIENCE UNDERGROUND ACADEMY Bored? Love Science? Then welcome to the International Summer School of postmodern New Media Arts and Sciences.

Gain knowledge and skills in practicing scientific and artistic techniques. Creative and innovative, in both Croatian and English, a team of 13 international speakers and experts in different fields of Arts and Sciences focus on (physics, biotechnology, electronics, biology and ecology, new media visual, digital, performative, biological and intermedia art).QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.

28.07 THURSDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY DUBROVNIK Brush to paint, paint to canvas, and canvas to audience!

Paintings with one source of enlightenment, ‘Dubrovnik', a city filled with spectacular architecture and natural motives; a city that is a fountain of inspiration, bringing together a constellation of artists from all over the world.

This large scale exhibit brings together a plethora of paintings from many artists with their inner views and inspirations of the Adriatic's Jewel.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August 25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/ (+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.

Summer 2016 17

Culture & Events REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum. The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.

QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket.

AUGUST - SEPTEMBER STEFAN BRACO BRAVAČIĆ Architect and urban planner, much of what you see in and around Dubrovnik has been influenced by Bravačić.

This exhibit presents his diversification in a body of work that includes architecture and painting, graphics, ships, yacht-design and more. Even the city buses have his touch!QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

01.08 MONDAY - 30.10 SUNDAY THE ROAD TO THE CALIPHATE BY EDDY VAN WESSEL Be taken on an emotional journey down the road of invasions and occupations, where hearts and minds are replaced by disgust and retaliation. Van Wessel witnesses the rise of warlords, bribery and power struggles, and extremism as people are used and abused without a sense for human value. Through his photographs, van Wessel sheds light on a darkened road.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, www.warphotoltd.com. J 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

SPECIAL EVENTS 09.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 SUNDAY LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www. lepetitfestival.com.

21.06 TUESDAY ANA U GRADU FESTIVAL Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and with two concerts scheduled, this is a chance to enjoy both chamber and contemporary classical music by Ana and her guests.Qwww.anarucner.com.

21.06 TUESDAY - 07.07 THURSDAY MIDSUMMER SCENE The English production of one Shakespeare's most beloved comedies, ‘Twelfth Night' will be directed by Helen Tennison and performed in English at one of Dubrovnik's most beautiful and most famous venues, the Lovrijenac Fortress. A culmination of love, mistaken identity and magic are just some of the elements of this classic play.

QK‑3, Lovrijenac Fortress, www.midsummer-scene. com.

25.06 SATURDAY - 10.09 SATURDAY KOMARDA BEACH Fancy an all-nighter with majestic views of Dubrovnik!

Tis true, set right on the Komarda Beach, this sublime location will have raving music programmes from event crews such as Black Bitch and Sticky Fingers amongst others each and every Saturday night. Electronic music is by far the hypnotic highlight with genres such as house, funk, techno and more to party too. Music played by resident DJs as well as international DJs will send ripples to the flowing waves at sea.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com.

10.07 SUNDAY - 01.09 THURSDAY STARS BENEATH THE STARS In its 12 year running, the Adriatic Luxury Hotels group organise an intriguing music summer programme where the most attractive areas surrounding 5 star hotels (beaches, terraces, pools) turn into splendid open settings where concerts take place under the night-time sky.

The combination of international music from (jazz, rock, pop, Cuban,) to prestigious Croatian musical artists makes this event sparkle.QGardens of Grand Villa Argentina; The Palm Terrace, Hotel Excelsior; Vala Beach Club, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace; www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 15.07 FRIDAY THE GARDEN OF MUSIC Transcend to the Renaissance Period of Dubrovnik, be amongst the aristocrats for a little while. You see, the park of the summer villa Bunić-Kaboga will be the stage for a selection of works by Croatian composers from past to present day with a focus on Dubrovnik composers. With attention paid to detail, this is a night of grandeur!QBunić - Kaboga Summer House, www.sveostalojeglazba.com.

21.07 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY DJ MAG FESTIVAL Crowd pleasing sets will have the audience going frantic with the most prestigious international zine for electronic music, ‘DJ Mag’ backing this festival. It opens with Ferreck Dawn, nominated as one of the best deep house DJs in the world. Night two sends a welcome return back to Club Revelin with DJ Kryder grooving the tunes whilst the final night is left to the Italian dyno duo in DJs from Mars, who twist pop songs into electro dance wonders.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin. com.

29.07 FRIDAY DJ R3HAB Making a comeback appearance to our 16th century fortress and majestic club is DJ R3HAB, who we must say almost had some punters unconscious with his parade of remixes from commercial artists as well as original hit singles when performing here last. This Dutch DJ pumps electro to progressive house sounds, unravelling his prowess time and time again.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.

11.08 THURSDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY REVELIN DUBROVNIK FESTIVAL Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club Revelin and Fedde le Grand returns for the opening night of the event, after last year's astounding edition.

Top world DJs mix and remix all night long in the majestic five hundred years old Revelin Fortress where some of the scenes of the hugely popular 'Game of Thrones' series were filmed. These DJs, who we have dubbed as knights of the modern era include DJ Alexis Adair, Joe Stone and others.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.

26.08 FRIDAY PAUL VAN DYK Ready to dance the night away! Then prepare to be amazed by the dance and trance sounds of one of the world's first superstar DJs and Grammy Award winners.

This German giant of jam, Paul Van Dyk will use the medieval fortress walls as a contrast of modern light and splash-back sound that will bring the house down.

QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Mila Kumbatović “Vrsidba na Krku” - Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives

BOŽIDAR GJUKIĆ - WAR PHOTOGRAPHY 1991-1992 ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

DUBROVNIK IN THE HOMELAND WAR 1991-1995 Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn.

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Culture & Events

Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives

SPORT EVENTS 10.07 SUNDAY - 08.08 MONDAY WILD LEAGUE – WATER POLO CHAMPIONSHIPS Low and behold, welcome to the largest amateur water polo competition in the world. Few argue that this city is the world capital of water polo, and over 40 teams will jump into the sea at the beginning of July ready to battle it out for the title.Qwww.divljaliga.hr.

COUNTY EVENTS 02.06 THURSDAY - 29.09 THURSDAY MOREŠKA SWORD DANCE A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreška was common across Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of swords.QKorčula.

14.06 TUESDAY - 28.06 TUESDAY KONAVLE ART, ‘WORD & MUSIC FESTIVAL’ With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only included classical music concerts, the repertoire these days includes performances in other musical genres as well as theatre shows, film screenings, art pop music and exhibitions.

Each year the increasing number of visitors and positive feedback testify to the large success of this only such festival in the Konavle area!QVarious locations, www.visit.cavtatkonavle.com.

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

17.06 FRIDAY SWORD DANCE FESTIVAL On guard! As this event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of Korčula’s sword dance societies called ‘Kumpanjija’ perform a type of chain dance with swords dating back as early as the 12th century. Come and see this amazing battle dance that carries the universal message of good overcoming bad.QKorčula, www.visitkorcula.eu.

24.06 FRIDAY ST. JOHN’S REGATTA On the name day of St. John, a regatta is held in his honour in Vela Luka which has a long history of rowing. It was first held in the second half of the 19th century and was revived as a tourist attraction in 1995. The five man crews row 3600 meters to the waterfront attracting a large number of competitors and visitors. The after party runs through the night!QVela Luka, island of Korčula, www.visitkorcula. eu.

25.06 SATURDAY - 27.08 SATURDAY DUBROVNIK WEST COAST SUMMER FESTIVAL 2016 You can reserve every weekend and certain weekdays as definite for concerts of classical music, folk ensembles, dance performances, exhibitions and fairs, plus fish nights, photo exhibits, klape vocal acts and most certainly a summer theatre on the waterfront. Best of all, events are free for all!QSlano, www.visit-slano. com/?l=hr&ispis=staticna&id=7.

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Culture & Events 30.06 THURSDAY CELEBRATION OF THE ‘HALF NEW YEAR’S EVE’ It isn’t exactly New Year’s Eve but we’re half way there. You bet, this traditional event has been held since 2001 and is celebrated with a masquerade carnival parade through the streets of the city of Korčula. It attracts a large number of guests with an entertaining programme that keeps visitors going well after midnight. May the countdown begin!QKorčula, www.visitkorcula.eu.

01.07 FRIDAY - 31.08 WEDNESDAY SUMMER ON THE ELAPHITE ISLANDS Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cultural event has for a number of years been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QKoločep, Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

14.07 THURSDAY - 17.07 SUNDAY MARCO POLO FEST Step back in time and celebrate at this festival of song and wine, it was established in honour of Marco Polo who was born on the island. The 4 day event begins with a ‘wine fiesta’, the second evening is dedicated to ‘pop melodies’ whilst the finale is fittingly titled ‘melodies of Marco Polo’.

Wine from all over the world is sampled so dig in for some fine wine tasting and fun.QSummer Cinema Korčula, Korčula island, www.marcopolofest.hr.

17.07 SUNDAY JUMPING INTO THE NERETVA A ‘Jumping Competition’ that attracts a large number of viewers is held next to the Lučki Bridge in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the young and the old. Special attention is paid to the ‘craziest jump’ category.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

26.07 TUESDAY - 28.07 THURSDAY & 10.08 WEDNESDAY - 12.08 FRIDAY MEDITERRANEAN FILM FESTIVAL Bringing cinema back to the smaller communities of Dalmatia is what this festival is all about. The programme takes place twice during the summer months in the old House of Culture in Goveđari and it really is a unique experience.

Snap, camera, action…QGoveđari, Island of Mljet, www. mljet.hr.

29.07 FRIDAY ROMAN NIGHT In the village of Vid, near Metković, is the ancient remains of the Roman city of Narona. For one night only, Romans will rampage once again with the staging of market slaves facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

and gladiator fights, see ancient crafts such as coinage, pottery made on a potter’s wheel, wooden toys, or even visit a Roman cosmetician or hair stylist. Exotic dancers, fire jugglers and delicious Roman cuisine make the night all the more special.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

29.07 FRIDAY ST. THEODORE’S DAY Nothing can hinder the beauty of this grand old tradition which highlights the influence of Christianity on the island. Three religious orders still thrive there so a holy procession is held with particular candles that are carried and named according to weight ‘Zero, Primo and others’. The highlight is the ‘Moreška’, a double sword dance dating from the 17th century which depicts a spectacular battle.

See the sparks fly as swords clash, a symbol of the island’s freedom struggle.QKorčula, Main Square, www. visitkorcula.eu.

04.08 THURSDAY - 14.08 SUNDAY SUMMER FILM SCHOOL ŠIPAN Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film professionals. Kids from the island as well as visitors produce their own films each summer and screen them in the open theatre under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg here!QŠipan port, island Šipan, www.sipan-film.com/.

11.08 THURSDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY DAYS OF THE NERETVA PRINCIPALITY The Neretva area is a valley with a lengthy river and marshes, it has a long tradition of agriculture as it was ‘the’ major source of life. For three days the entire area rises to the occasion of recalling the ways of their ‘dide and babe’, or ‘grandmas and grandpas’. It prepares locals for the biggest event of the year in the ‘Boat Marathon’ and there is a fair of traditional crafts, rural games, homemade produce, costumed plays and more…Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

13.08 SATURDAY NIGHT OF FOLKLORE The wonderful old town of Ston is best known for its saltworks and especially its famous seven kilometre long walls made of stone. It is also the host to a traditional night of folklore dances and songs from all Croatian regions.

QMain Square, Ston, www.ston.hr.

13.08 SATURDAY THE NERETVA BOAT (LAĐA) MARATHON Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. maraton-ladja.hr.

Summer 2016 21

Marco Polo The name Marco Polo is synonymous with travel and adventure. While he is undoubtedly one of the greatest characters from history, some details of his life remain a mystery. For example, it is acknowledged that the great adventurer was born in the year 1254 but it is not known exactly where. Written evidence show that the Polo family lived on the island of Korčula in the 15th century, and Venetian historical records from the same time confirm that the Polo family name has its roots in Dalmatia. Confusion on the exact place of his birth is somewhat understandable since the Republic of Venice at the time encompassed much of the land which now occupies modern Dalmatia, including the island of Korčula. So, with Venice as the most powerful economic force from the 12th to the 18th century, it was not uncommon for many families from Dalmatia to move to and settle in the town of Venice — as did the Polo family after Marco’s birth.

Marco Polo’s chronicles to the Far East began in 1271 when he took up the mercantile family business with his father Nicola and his uncle Mateo. Although Marco’s father and uncle had made the journey before, they reached the summer residence of their patron Kublai Khan in Shangdu four years later in 1275. Marco became an envoy and special advisor in the service of the great Mongolian ruler for 17 years. His extensive travels throughout Asia enabled him get a picture of the different cultures, traditions, and even the geographical layout of the majority of the Asian continent. Marco’s time in Asia came to an end, and his long way back home began, when he agreed to travel to the western reaches of the Mongolian empire in order to accompany a Mongolian princess to Persia.

Marco Polo’s mark on history came out of the ashes of one of the largest and bloodiest naval battles the world had ever seen. On September 7th, 1298 the Republics of Genoa and Venice - two of the middle ages’ bitterest rivals - waged war on the Adriatic sea between the Pelješac peninsula and the northeastern edge of the island of Korčula. Although the battle took place in the heart of Venice’s Dalmatian territory, Genoa and their enormous flotilla emerged victorious. With Marko Polo having been a Venetian - and therefore on losing side - the wounded Marko Polo was captured and taken prisoner along with hundreds of others. After three days of captivity in a tower on the island (which is still around today) Marco was taken to Genoa where he spent nearly a year languishing behind bars. As luck would have it, Polo shared his Marco Polo Museum Archives

cell with a romantic writer named Rustichello da Pisa. After months of dictating the details of his adventures to Rustichello, “The Book of the Marvels of the World”, also known by its Italian title “Il Milione”, was completed. Even during Polo’s lifetime the book was an enormous hit and his descriptions of the animals, customs and geography of the Far East became basis for all subsequent works on the subject for centuries to come. He is credited today with introducing Europe to the concept of paper money, the number ‘million’, the use of coal as fuel, and perhaps even eyeglasses. Marco Polo’s indelible mark on history continues to be felt today, as his book is the third most read in the history of mankind - behind only the Bible and the Quran.

The Travels of Marco Polo was a source of inspiration for the other great naval powers of the time, including Spain and Portugal. Many countless adventurers struck out into the unknown for a chance to glimpse what Polo had described in his book; the most famous of which was Christopher Columbus.

During Columbus’ attempt to forge a direct route to the trading ports of the Far East - by actually travelling west - he encountered the Americas, and the world was changed forever.

It is also know that Columbus kept a well-worn copy of Polo’s book with him on his repeated journeys to the Americas and used it as a reference point to help him describe the fantastic scenes he taking in.

By all accounts and purposes, Marco Polo returned to Venice in 1295 as a very wealthy man, after his more than two decades in Asia. Following his release from prison in Genoa and the publication of his book, by 1300 Polo was working again with his father and uncle as a successful merchant. His marriage to Donata Badoer, a Venetian noblewoman, bore him three daughters: Fantina, Bellela and Moretta. Polo fell ill 1323 and remained bedridden until his death on January 8th of the following year. His last will and testament was executed by his family, as his large sums of wealth and property were distributed. A portion went to the San Lorenzo convent in the city of Venice where his remains are kept today. It is also said that Polo set free the Tatar slave who accompanied him during his travels in Asia.

Interesting facts The number million is said to have been taken from Marco Polo’s middle name ‘Emilio’. While his impact on the world of his day and modern times is undeniable, several contemporaries and historians argue that the accounts in his book were grossly exaggerated. So in order to keep pace with the incredible descriptions in his book, normal numbers were inadequate, therefore 1, 000, 000 came into use.

A sailing clipper, christened “Marco Polo”, built in Saint John, Canada in 1851 became the fastest ship in the world by sailing around the globe in less than six months.

Be sure to visit the island of Korčula this summer and experience the life and times of Marco Polo first-hand during the Marco Polo Fest, held from the 14th to the 17th of July.

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Dubrovnik Pulse We asked locals - who live or work in Dubrovnik - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

ANNA SLABOVSKA Owner of Hotel Stari Grad and Restaurant Above 5 DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Anna: Glam Caffe, La Bodega.

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Anna: Lokrum Island, Above 5 Restaurant.

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Anna: Walking the narrow streets of the Old Town and kayaking around the Walls and Lokrum.

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Anna: Modni Kantun, unique pieces of clothing and jewelry made exclusively by Croatian designers, and Nebo, clothing produced in Croatia. As a souvenir, I would recommend a tie, although it is not typical for this region, but it is typical in Croatia. And, of course, embroidery from the Konavle region, which can be found by Mrs. Kate, on the steps of the Dominican Monastery.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Anna: Popara and Buzara.

DAMIR ŠARIĆ Head Chef at Restaurant Stara Loza

Damir Šarić and his team from the restaurant ‘Stara Loza’

here for at least seven days and get a feeling for the routine. Only then can you uncover the charm and beauty of the city and its traditions. I'm not a fan of sightseeing, so I do not recommend it .

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Damir: My favorite place for an afternoon coffee is Buzz Bar on Prijeko street in the core of the Old Town. This is a very positive place and a place where during the summer locals and foreigns mingle.

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?

Damir: When departing, it is necessarily to take a trip to a store carrying Aroma Ragusea products. Try packaged homemade desserts, or if you really want to treat yourself, then you can buy handmade jewelry from the Konavle region.

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?

Damir: To relax, you should walk around the Old City Walls, or my personal favourite, is a walk at Orsula Park, located outside of town, where you can enjoy nature and the beautiful view.

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Damir: After all this, when you are hungry, treat yourself to a traditional shellfish stew in the restaurant Stara Loza in Dubrovnik and taste real domestic malvasia from the Konavle winemaker, Petar Crvik. Enjoy!

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Damir: In order to know the city better, you need to be facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

instagram.com/ croatiaiyp Summer 2016 23

Restaurants CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you'll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). P­T­A­6­U­ G­W

Thai Table Restaurant Archives

BREAKFAST BISTRO DUBRAVA Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well as jam and toast. They also serve a light lunch and dinner, along with homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert, which you can enjoy as you look out at the ancient city and watch the buzz of people around you.

QC‑2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 24:00. (60-150kn). P­A­G­B­X­W ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). J­A­B­W PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, martina@pupodubrovnik. com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W 24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone's taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you're a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, fax (+385-20) 31 19 58, sales@nautikarestaurant. com, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 160kn). P­A­U­G­B­W KAVANA TEATAR Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omelets. This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20, nkoncic58@net.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. (30 - 90kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­S­W KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”.

A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 130kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W KOPUN Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, info@restaurantkopun.com, www. restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. June - August Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There's a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

P­­T­A­E­G­B­X­W

TAVULIN Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal in this ancient setting.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+38520) 32 39 77, bistro@tavulin.com, www.tavulin.com.

Open 09:00 - 01:00. (100 - 170kn). P­J­G­B­X­W

ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it's like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan's terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www.restaurantorhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (50 - 200kn). P­T­J­ A­6­G­B­X­W

ETHNIC

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INCREDIBLE INDIA Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik!

Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun, this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only the freshest ingredients.

Enjoy some chicken tandoori and prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi. Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill up quickly.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43, incredibleindiadubrovnik@gmail.com, www.incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(75 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­B­S­W Summer 2016 25

Restaurants

TAJ MAHAL You guessed it, the Old Town's only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma!

Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail.com, www.tajmahaldubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (60 - 180kn).

T­A ­6 ­G ­B ­S ­W

INTERNATIONAL AZUR Looking for something a little different from the traditional mediterranean dishes found everywhere? Then Azur is your answer! The outdoor seating is playfully decorated with bright and vibrant colours and goes along with the food, which is just as colourful as the atmosphere. Featuring a unique blend of asian and mediterranean dishes, a mix of curry and chili with basil and rosemary spices, it's known as mediterranean cuisine with an asian twist and will add a delectable bang to your trip!QD‑4, Pobijana 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 06, info@azurvision.com, www.azurvision.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 148kn). P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G­ B­X ­W 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.steakhousedomino.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 140kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­ G­B­C­W LUCIN KANTUN “Lucy's Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work. He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there's a nice selection of desserts.QB‑2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03, lucinkantun@mail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. May - September Open 11:00 - 01:00. (38 160kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W MAGELLAN The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, magellan.restoran@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:30.

(80 - 150kn). P­A­U­L­E­G­B­X­S­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants PANTARUL A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare.

As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they're always adding new and fun meals to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience. The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38520) 33 34 86, pantarul@pantarul.com, www.pantarul. com. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00.

Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). P­T­A­L­G­S­W PORAT BAR & GRILL Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day” fish, all artfully presented. It's the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, damrag1@gmail. com, www.porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00.

(25 - 500kn). P­­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W

RESTAURANT 360° If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!' then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°.QE‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, info@360dubrovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It's attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can't go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www. tavernaotto.com. May - September Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). P­T­A­ 6­G­B­X­W

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Summer 2016 27

Restaurants KONOBA KONOBA DALMATINO Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Konoba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Homemade Filled Pasta, Mussels in a Cream Wine Sauce or John Dory Fillet from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don't miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/ (+385-) 098 32 74 04, info@dalmatino-dubrovnik.com, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 180kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W KONOBA JEZUITE Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@ gmail.com, www.restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). J­A­B­W

28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

KONOBA POPRET For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don't miss out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. It's an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations, such as a confirmation, first communion or small wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63/(+385-) 091 526 77 82, pero.nadramija@gmail.com, www.konobapopret. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (18 - 120kn). P­T­A­6­U­ I­L­E­G­B­X­S­W PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of wellprepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a 'walk on a wok side' as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.

QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor.kuznin@gmail.com, www.pupodubrovnik. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). T­J­A­U­G­ B­K­X­S­W

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Restaurants

BURGER TIGER

Od te

Sigura

PILE G ATE

PLOČE GATE o Prijek

DUN)

RA A (ST

PLAC

RECTOR PALACE

BURGERS CHICKEN BURGER HOT DOG CHICKEN WINGS

ZA ROKOM

FISH & CHIPS TORTILLA / WRAP FRY & DIP ONION RINGS

Vetranićeva 4, 20000 Dubrovnik | burgertiger1@gmail.com Tel/Fax: +38520 322 063 | www.burger-tiger-dubrovnik.com

LIGHT BITES

MEDITERRANEAN

BURGER TIGER This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It's the perfect spot for a quick meal while you're seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, dubrovnik.bars. restaurants@gmail.com, www.burger-tiger-dubrovnik. com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (20 - 50kn). P­T­J­A­U­ G­B­X­S­W

ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT Take a walk down the narrow side street Od Sigurate to the Boutique Hotel Stari Grad, climb up 5 flights of stairs, and you'll come across this charming and elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist using only fresh local produce from the market and wild herbs collected by hand. Their delectable focaccia bread is a staple on the menu and should not be missed.

The wine list consists of only local Croatian wines.. As well, they also offer breakfast, such as smoked salmon or avocado with eggs.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, info@ hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.com. Open 12:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (175 - 205kn). T­J­A­B­X­W

MR. FRESH Looking for a spot to enjoy a healthy, yet tasty treat in the heart of Dubrovnik? Look no further. At Mr. Fresh you can get a savoury smoothie to raise your energy levels as you explore this beautiful city. To satisfy your hunger they offer salads, tortillas and sandwiches. As well, to cool off, they offer four flavours of ice cream, which include wild berries, jaffa, stracciatella and chocolate. As a special treat, they also serve cocktails-on-the-go, such as a Mojito, Malibu Breeze or Gin-Gin.QB‑3, Od Puča 14, tel. (+385-) 095 936 30 07. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June 15 Open 09:00 24:00. (20 - 45kn). ­T­J­A­B­S

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AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you're based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, info@ amforadubrovnik.com, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. June - August Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). P­A­G­B­X­W Summer 2016 29

Restaurants

GUSTA ME This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@ gmail.com, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W KLARISA Just few years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they'd always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you'll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that's how fresh their fish is.

There's a tavern attached, so if you're waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.

QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, marketing@klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­ I­E­G­B­X­W 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you're looking for a restaurant to eat at while you're outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city.

They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. Their menu includes something to suit everyone's taste, from salads and pizza to lasagna and ćevapčići. Best of all, from Monday to Friday, for only 35kn, they offer a daily brunch menu.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, info@ mezzanave.com, www.mezzanave.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. June - August Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). P­T ­A ­6­ U­L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+38520) 44 25 26, sales@nautikarestaurants.com, www. nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 398kn). P­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W

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Restaurants SEAFOOD PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR It's hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the top of Mount Srđ or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty meal or simply a drink while you look out over the bird'seye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view is to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright and sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spectacular scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.QK/L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385) 091 486 00 47, sales@nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-) 099 697 67 29, sales@ restaurant-horizont.com, www.restaurant-horizont. com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (110 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­ G­B­X­S­W TOVJERNA SESAME An Aladdin's cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieria 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (90 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­ G­B­X­W

MEET THE MEAT PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+38520) 48 49 78, info@paparazzo.hr, www.paparazzo.hr/.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­ B­X­W

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BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

June 15 - September Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn).

P­T ­J ­A ­G ­S ­W KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82, m.bore74@gmail.com. May Open 08:00 - 23:00. June - September Open 08:00 24:00. (58 - 123kn). J­A ­B ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@ du.t-com.hr, www.restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). P­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B­ X­W OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.

QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, SALES2@ BOTA-SARE.HR, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

June - September Open 11:00 - 24:00. (28 - 135kn). P­J­ A­6­G­B­X­W PROTO Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, marketing@esculapteo.hr, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 23:00. (150 - 250kn). P­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Summer 2016 31

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Restaurants PIZZA

KOLOČEP

TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95. Open 09:30 - 24:00. (23 - 85kn).

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VILLA RUŽA The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza.com, www.villa-ruza.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (140 - 215kn).

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VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@ nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (77 - 95kn). J­A­G­B­X­ S­W

CAVTAT BUGENVILA A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, bugenvila. cavtat@gmail.com, www.bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn). T­A­L­B LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don't mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut. com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). P­A­U­G­B­W 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

KONAVLE KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). A­L­G­B­X­W KONAVOSKI KOMIN Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). A­6­L­G­B­X­W

KORČULA ADIO MARE Whether it's the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who's apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It's the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+38520) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, konobaadiomare@ gmail.com, www.konobaadiomare.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). P­J­A­6­ G­B­X­W ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don't miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.tcom.hr, www.zure.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn).

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SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Restaurants LOPUD

STON

OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud's waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+38520) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, obala@du.t-com. hr, www.obalalopud.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 300kn). P­A­G­B­X­W

VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+38520) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@du.t-com. hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn).

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MLINI KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you'll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com. hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).

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36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ZATON ANKORA The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it's worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, ankora.doo@du.t-com. hr, www.restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­B­X­W ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966.

Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.gverovic-orsan.hr.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn). A­6­L­G­B­X­W

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Local Flavour

Blato Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Dinko Oreb

LOCAL DISHES Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city's menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It's hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it's hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you'd like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let's start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone's favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You'll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you've the perfect lunch.

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bafacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

con and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It's cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you're there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It's the perfect end to a watery day's safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you'll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it's easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they're high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it's pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you'll see rožata on many a menu: it's the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there's no better way than to finish your meal than some Summer 2016 37

Local Flavour fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in Dubrovnik.

LOCAL RECIPES Orancini Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you don't want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry.

Bruštulane mjendule Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds, pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool before attacking.

Kotonjata From Dubrovnik in the south, it's a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it's not a jelly at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.

Mantala A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon.

PELJEŠAC WINES Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region's wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

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The country's history being what it is it's perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won't be long before all of that will change. Here, we'll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions.

Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Now, while it's true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available.

Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia's crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from Rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area's wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac Mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula's wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.

More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you're time dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour is flexible enough then it's well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you'll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you're not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it's reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you're going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you're never likely to try the same dish twice even if you're dining out each night of a holiday.

THE FOODIE'S GUIDE 09.06 THURSDAY - 15.09 THURSDAY FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Every Thursday from June 9, rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the background makes for enchanting evenings.QMimbelli square, Orebić, Pelješac.

18.06 SATURDAY PELJEŠAC DINNER Wine lovers ought to know that the Pelješac Peninsula is a mecca for wine production and has been for centuries.

Spend one evening in the town of Drače, and particularly on its pier for fine local culinary and wine. Dalmatian acapella choirs provide musical melodies with their angelic voices and all proceeds will go towards a good cause.

QDrače, www.ston.hr.

29.06 WEDNESDAY & 15.08 MONDAY MLJET’S HIDDEN CORNERS Ethno culinary event that connects several manifestations of the same character into one and held exclusively in the old villages of the island. Local housewives use fresh ingredients to prepare and present local delicacies, brandies and wines. There is live music, folklore, old photographs and crafts, and even some records playing. It's as if time stops for a moment, and so let it be!QIsland of Mljet, Blato and Korita, www.mljet.hr.

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour 01.07 FRIDAY CIPOLIJADA Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a competition in catching mullets called 'Cipolijada' is held.

The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.QMetković, www. tzmetkovic.hr.

12.07 TUESDAY THE FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC, TRPANJ Connoisseurs of wine eat your hearts out with this gastronomic experience in which Pelješac wines and cuisine are presented. Rich local cookery, the best wine drop, and rhythms of Dalmatian music set the scene for a remarkable evening. Visitors can try for free, and then buy the wine that best suits their palate.QTrpanj, Pelješac, www.tzotrpanj.hr.

17.07 SUNDAY KORČULA WINE FESTIVAL - BLACK ISLAND WHITE WINES With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated

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for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine, scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to dabble!QKorčula, Korčula Island, www.visitkorcula.eu.

23.07 SATURDAY - 31.07 SUNDAY THE 6TH POŠIP DAYS IN ČARA AND SMOKVICA When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of Smokvica and Čara on Korčula have a well-known tradition in wine growing and wine production dating from ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake in the art of wine tasting.QČara and Smokvica, Korčula island, www.visitkorcula.eu.

25.07 MONDAY & 28.08 SUNDAY TOAST FROM THE HOST Heaven on earth! This tiny island of St. Mary is 120m x 200m and dominated by an ancient Benedictine monastery. It's an escape from everything and the perfect setting for a wine and food event where Pelješac wine makers and other manufacturers of eco products from the island of Mljet present their products. With Dalmatian music in the background again, enjoy the sounds and flavours of Mljet. Qthe small island of St. Mary and Pomena, www. mljet.hr.

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DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR T. +385 20 325 393, E. info@dubrovnikcablecar.com, Www.dubrovnikcablecar.com

PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR T. +385 20 312 664, E. sales@nautikarestaurants.com, Www.nautikarestaurants.com

Coffee & Cakes

Tovjerna Sesame Archives

CAKES DOLCE VITA This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51, dolcevita.dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. P­N­B GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK If you're looking for a quick snack while exploring Dubrovnik then Gossip is the perfect spot to stop by. Located on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 under the name Eat&Sweet!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 45, www.icecream-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

(10 - 50kn). T­J­N­S PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it's the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia.

This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you'll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy. QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, martina@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik. com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­ X­W SLATKI KUTAK Located in Uvala Lapad, they are famous for their delicious crepes, called palačinke in Croatian. They offer both sweet and salty choices, such as nutella and marmalade or ham and cheese. As well, they have both Cheesecake and Chocolate Cake to satisfy your sweet cravings along with a huge variety of ice cream flavours.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 60 51. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

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YOGOMANIA This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy your sweet tooth.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija.papak@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Open 09:00 - 24:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­J ­N ­G ­B ­W

COFFEE BIKER'S CAFE Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 01:00. P­N ­B ­X ­W CAVE BAR MORE This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebardubrovnik@ gmail.com, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 24:00. A­W CELTIC BAR BELFAST ‘The Belfast' is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG‑2, Marka Marulića 21, celticbarbelfast@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00.

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Coffee & Cakes

FASHION CAFÉ In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 02:00.

P­6­N­G­B­X­W FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn't be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, dubrovnik.bars.restaurants@ gmail.com, cafefestival.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­ A­6­G­B­X­W GALERIE One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC‑2, Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. P­A­6­G­B­X­W GLAM CAFÉ If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails or craft beers.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 - 02:00.

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LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik's best kept secret.

Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don't be surprised if you find you're sitting in someone's seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26.

Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. 6­G ­B ­X ­W SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there's additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385) 095 199 85 07, anajcer@gmail.com. Open 08:00 02:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W

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Nightlife BARS When the sun dawns and the stars begin to appear an entire new ambience is felt throughout the city. The night scene in Dubrovnik is not much different from the rest of Croatia. The narrow streets in the Old Town become a source of music, laughter, clamor and romance.

A true international atmosphere is sensed all-round.

Classical music concerts are held in city palaces with a strong international contingent appearing on stage.

Open-air theater and performances are always an essential part of the summer evening too.

The main walkway called Stradun and its interconnecting and surrounding streets definitely offer various venues with music of all kinds as well as audacious drink assortments that will tickle anyone's tonsils. Local aperitifs and liquors are popular as well as delicacies like smoked ham and cheese, which always come in handy as you soldier on through the night. Lots of bars and restaurants are open till late with Mediterranean most popular.

It must be noted that in most bars and pubs people prefer to stand, it's the best way to mingle, break the herd or even go to the WC. Once you're packed in like a sardine, then standing room can often alter from being indoors to outdoors; not to mention the fresh air. The city's clubs and lounge bars are open till late, so if you're up for an all-nighter, by all means!

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ART CAFFE Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you'll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. G­B­X­W BUŽA What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There's no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.

QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen's tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 03:00 or according to weather conditions. B BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25, thebuzzbar@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­ U­E­B­X­W

Summer 2016 47

Nightlife CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, cultureclubrevelin@ gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 06:00. June - September Open 23:00 - 06:00. P­A­W Culture Club Revelin Archives

MIRAGE On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour's. The inside isn't bad either (not that you'll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-) 095 914 54 62. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­N­B­ X­W NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector's Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www. nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­A­E­B­W ROCK CAFFE EXIT Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 095 914 54 62, exit.dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 18:00 - 02:00. July - September Open 19:00 - 03:00. P­J­ E­N­X­W TROUBADOUR HARD JAZZ CAFE It's hard to beat a warm evening spent here toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your super-size view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so we'll forgive the significantly above-average prices.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 2. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

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CLUBS BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one's privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑5, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+38520) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach. eu. Open Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From June 18 - September Open 22:00 - 05:00. P­A­B­W 48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. June - September Open Thu - Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

LOUNGE BARS CULTO Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića 39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 04:00.

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PUBS GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52, bosko.bosnjak@gmail.com. Open 09:00 01:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­6­ G­B­X­W IRISH PUB KARAKA This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to Dubrovnik. It's a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink with your friends while you're out visiting the Old Town.

Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, dubrovnik.bars.restaurants@ gmail.com, irishpubkaraka.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00.

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Nightlife WINE BARS D'VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino. net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. J­A­G­B­W LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 55, rezervacije@labodega.hr, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­6­B­X­W

RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It's part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen's club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There's also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo beer rich in vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe in Zagreb.

QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04, winebar@ thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­W

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MATUŠKO This local family, known for producing some of the finest wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljašac region, goes by the motto, “Svi smo mi Mato Matuško samo je Dundo Bobo.” Their wine bar, located in the Old City is

a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass of Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are currently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, violetavukanovic@gmail.com, www.matusko-vina.hr.

Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W

Ožujsko Draught Beer (0,3 • 0,5 • 1L • 3L) XXL Cocktails 1L • 3L

Bunićeva Poljana 3, 20 000 Dubrovnik

Cocktails

Shooters

Frappe

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50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Ice Cream

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Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović

ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city's defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies' skirts! As befits the monastery's strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.

LOKRUM ISLAND You don't have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It's one of the best spots for a swim. The island's shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there's a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there's a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum's hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn.

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you'll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won't see on any street signs. It's the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It's the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the Summer 2016 51

Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city's people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church's front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year's Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00.

August Open from 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.

52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik's city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon's armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence.

Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it's well worth visiting.

It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John's fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees.

Above the gates you'll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. June - July Open 08:00-19:30. August - September Open 08:00 - 18:30. Admission 30 - 120kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you'll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it's the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.wix.com/ malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15 - 30kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace's frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket costing 100kn for adults, 80kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector's Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

CHURCHES CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SIGURATA & MUSEUM OF SIGURATA CONVENT (SAMOSTAN I MUZEJ SIGURATA) To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 20kn.

ST IGNATIUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. IGNACIJA) Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Andrea Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Summer 2016 53

Sightseeing MUSEUMS Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in English is held on Sundays at 11:00.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

THE CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA) The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.

QD‑3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.

A MASTER OF LIGHTNING This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe. The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla.

The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe.With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen.

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours.

Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, ana.cucevic@ gmail.com, www.pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.

QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, etnografski@ dumus.hr, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket.

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, pomorski@dumus.hr, www.dumus. hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, ured@muzej-marindrzic.eu, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. June September Open 09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket. J dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

GALLERIES DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists' community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector's Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery's title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika's swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

joy, and it's a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn't get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik's buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando's column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic's mint and customs house - all the Republic's trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals.

A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city's artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.

In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, dad@dad.hr, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 25kn.

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Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović

WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, wpl@warphotoltd.com, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 40kn.

LANDMARKS BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular' here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It's best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they're all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK) Located in St. John's Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna.

The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com/index. php?action=akvarij_dubrovnik&lan=hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 60kn.

56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+38520) 32 53 93, blagajna@dubrovnikcablecar.com, www. dubrovnikcablecar.com. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August Open 09:00 - 24:00. Adults (round-trip 120kn, one-way 70kn), Children under 12 (round-trip 50kn, one-way 30kn), Children under 4 free.

GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić's poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town's fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today's Croatia. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio's small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you'll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city's enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political 'heart' of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando's right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th

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century St Orsula's Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you'll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn't up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.

Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - 'the green ones' - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower's clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

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Sightseeing THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it's a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise's Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it's a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra's musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city's golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik's lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists' workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.

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58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Paths of Salt

Solana Nin Archives

As Croatia is positioned along the Adriatic Coast, it has developed and maintained a significant role in the production of salt for centuries on end, and when you take into consideration that man first discovered salt 10,000 BCE, this natural mineral has become part and parcel of life, has fed and nurtured civilisations, and will continue to do so.

Looking back, salt has always been deeply rooted in human culture: Roman soldiers received salt as a reward; Egyptians used salt for mummification; the Greeks often exchanged slaves for salt and used it in certain rituals, whilst the Japanese would sprinkle salt around the house to drive away evil spirits. Salt became a treasured and highly sought after ingredient, it brought colonial power; it led to wars and was one of the first sources of trade particularly throughout the Middle Ages where it was deemed ‘as precious as gold’.

So what is salt? Why is it so valuable? And how can we use it?

Firstly, salt is a natural mineral made up of white cube-shaped crystals primarily composed of two elements, sodium and chloride. It is translucent, colourless, and has a distinctive and characteristic taste.

The majority of people think of salt as simply a white granular food seasoning. In fact, only 6% of all salt manufacturing goes into food. It is said that we use salt in more than 14,000 different ways from the making of products as varied as plastic, paper, glass, aluminium, and rubber, to household bleach, soaps, detergents, and dyes. We use salt for medicinal purposes, for preserving food, cleaning and polishing, gardening, skin treatment, personal care, hygiene, and more!

Salt is essential for human life and the body cannot produce neither sodium nor chloride itself, so we need to add a pinch of salt into our daily diets. It helps maintain chemical balance in our muscles and nervous system and it is said that 5 to 6 grams of salt per day, for an average adult, goes a long way.

Historically, in terms of salt in Croatia, the oldest known document comes from the year 542 CE and is linked to the former Brijuni Saltworks. The Pag Saltworks were mentioned in the 9th century and the year 1018 CE saw the beginning of a long struggle between the Croatian town of Zadar, and Venetians who took much of Dalmatia under their control, and singlehandedly decided on the fate of Croatian Saltpans.

Foreign rule often meant survival with trade an essential element. Towns either flourished or perished; the latter due to lack of produce causing unemployment, migration, and economic instability as is witnessed in this day and age. Put simply, where facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

there is salt there is work, there is life, and there is survival. And to survive people need to earn money, a salary; and the word ‘salary’happens to derive from the word‘salt’. Nowadays, some of Croatia’s best saltworks are the bread and butter of a town, where almost every family has a type of affiliation to the company, some of which go back generations. Stories are told and traditions are kept. At present, a combination of old salt production methods are still used and combined with modern technology.

And now there is tourism where saltworks are an attraction, a sight to see and interest is aplenty. Some of Croatia’s exemplary ‘solanas’ include…

Solana Nin has shared a turbulent history; from Roman emperors who would use salt from Nin at feasts in juxtaposition to the Venetians who shut down the Solana as it was competition to their rival salt pans. Today, a Roman gate still stands as testimony to the age of the salt pans and it is positive to note that salt production is in full swing these days; 55 hectares is used and is positioned between five Croatian national parks, indicating the Eco Certified purity and unspoiled natural surroundings of the area. The Solana also has a historical Museum and souvenir shop where you can buy the highly sought ‘Salt Flower’.

Solana Ston dates back to Roman times, 2000 BCE. Its geographical position and fertile fields have always been abundant in water and salt, and when under the rule of the Dubrovnik Republic, its leadership built monumental walls in the 14th and 15th centuries to safeguard the cities of Ston and Mali Ston.

This entire area known as the ‘Pelješac peninsula’ was rebuilt and protected from possible attacks in order to preserve the maximum value of its salt pans which brought so much wealth to the Republic’s economy.

Solana Pag dates as far back as 999 CE and produces two thirds of Croatia’s total salt production. The shallow waters of the closed Pag Bay brings perfect conditions for salt production, allowing sea salt to be drained into small clay saltpans that set the landscape of the bay today. The Solana has a permanent exhibition portraying the process of salt production (past and present), ancient tools, a salt mill, transport, and film projections.

It is clear that nature has blessed the Adriatic Coast with so much beauty, and these days guided tours are on offer which bring to life the entire process of salt production, the history of each seaside town, the tools and methods used, and the utter importance of maintaining life in such rural areas. Voluntary work is possible where one can get a true feel for life on the salt pans; as well as museums and galleries, souvenir shops, interactive presentations, summer camps and more. We recommend you create some memories, with a pinch of salt to help spice up your stay!

Summer 2016 59

Maps & Index

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Maps & Index A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Maps & Index Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

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Maps & Index Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

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I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

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ATM

Retail office/Exchange

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Boris Kragić

NORTH OF DUBROVNIK The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno' which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don't miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

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East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

SLANO Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

SLANO TOURIST BOARD QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, tzo@dubrovackoprimorje.hr, www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston.

The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

THE WALLS OF STON In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

THE WALLS OF STON QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/ (+385-20) 63 88 01, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30.

June - July Open 08:00 - 19:30. August Open 08:00 18:30. Tickets 20 - 40kn. their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebic-croatia.com.

Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@ du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 19:00. Closed Sun. June - September Open 08:00 - 19:00.

NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 13 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the

THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

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popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, info@tzmetkovic.hr, www. tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SOUTH OF DUBROVNIK South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.

If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik's history and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built respectively.

From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin word 'canalis', referring to water channels that used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. May - June Open 07:30 - 14:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July - August Open 08:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

KONAVLE The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume.

Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Renco Kosinožić

western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

SOKOL TOWER Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konvale and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. June - October Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

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A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, marketing@ tzcavtat-konavle.hr, visit.cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00-19:00, Sun 08:00-14:0. June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

July - August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

ISLANDS The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, invaluable.

The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula is also known as 'Little Dubrovnik' because of the walls that surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.

With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure offers.The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life all the more special.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island.

(Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re

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still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Mljet Tourist Board Archives

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.

The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

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WHAT TO SEE Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@npmljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.

Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities.

Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).

Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island.

Odysseus’ Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.

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Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements.

In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.

A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz.mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 13:00.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD, POLAČE OFFICE QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tz.mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings KORČULA K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you'll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn't take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you'll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you've entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone throw from the main square and you'll be bedazzled by the amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures. The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the main-square and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the 12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood and most of which were brought across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors!

The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And that's just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it's well worth a few days' stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia's Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.

But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from 74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Lastovo Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Stjepan Tafra

any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you'll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south.

KORČULA CITY MUSEUM QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, info@gmkorcula.com, www.gm-korcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrangement. July - September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 8 - 20kn per person.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, info@ visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July - August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

LASTOVO Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that's why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it's an untouched ecological paradise. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates.

The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town's streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one's chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo's heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island's deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet.

Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island's folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you're ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, info@tz-lastovo.hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat & Sun. June Open 08:00 -14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

July - August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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Leisure Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there's no shortage of variety.

ADRENALINE Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger.

ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.hr@ gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 18:00, Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, dubrovnik@adventuredalmatia.com, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

BIG GAME FISHING An exciting sport using fast boats on the open sea to catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin. Licences are for sale in travel agencies.It can be organised via phone and can last up to half a day or the entire day, it can be midweek or over weekend depending on your preference, weather conditions and the availability of the ship.Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik. com. Open by prior arrangement.

BLUE PLANET Scuba diving.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanetdiving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Leisure DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.

QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

KOJAN KORAL Horse riding, ATV Quad Safaris intended for groups of 7 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral. hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

EXCURSIONS Agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips that suit your needs.

DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES One day excursions, travels on foot, bike rental, donkey rides, wine and olive oil tastings, kayaking.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, info@dubrovnikadventures.com, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A

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DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS Day tours to Elaphite islands (Lopud, Šipan and Koločep) with one of the 4 old timer boats that are fully equipped.

The price of 250kuna per person includes transportation from your hotel or place of stay to the ship docking area and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) 098 178 71 77, zatontravel@gmail.com, www. dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. Open by prior arrangement.

DUBROVNIK BOATS Tailor-made trips to Dubrovnik surroundings with choice of full-featured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran, speed boat or yacht), simply contact Nikša and his team.

QBartola Kašića 13, tel. (+385-) 098 75 78 90, info@ dubrovnikboats.com, www.dubrovnikboats.com.

Open by prior arrangement.

FAMILY ADVENTURE Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities.

DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you'll pay 100kn/hr.

Retail & Treatments • Dermalogica skin care • • OPI nail care • • Body Massages • • Adam & Eve waxing •

Spa at the Berkeley

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Summer 2016 77

Shopping

Aroma Ragusea Archives

ACCESSORIES

ART GALLERIES

ART GO'DEN A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand.

Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival!QK‑3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 098 42 75 96, info@artgoden. com, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A

AR BASTION A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, sv.frano@gmail.com, www.antoniaruskovic.com.

Open 08:00-18:30. June - July Open 08:00-19:30. A

CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata's shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, info@moje-tezoro. hr, www.moje-tezoro.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August Open 09:00 - 12, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 78 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com, www.arturgallery.com.

Open 10:00 - 16. May - June Open 10:00 - 18:00. July August Open 10:00 - 22:00. A HERITAGE GALLERY A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, info@heritagegallery.eu, www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. N KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. July - October 11:00 - 24:00. A ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romana-milutin.com, www. romana-milutin.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

June - October Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, karmen.cetinic@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. June - September Open 09:00 - 22:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

CIGAR SHOP LA CASA DEL HABANO Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Republic.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62, dubrovnik@ havana-cigar-shop.com, www.havana-cigar-shop.com. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August Open 12:00 - 24:00.A

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DELICATESSEN AROMA RAGUSEA This ten year old company offers traditional products from the region of Dubrovnik. Their domestic products include arancini, sugared almonds, sea salt with Mediterranean spices, such as sage and rosemary, as well as aromatic bath salts with lavender, cookies and beškotini, and a variety of liqueurs and teas. These registered products can be purchased in three locations- Terra Croatica on Ulica od Puča, Kraš on Stradun and Dubravka on Pile.Qtel. (+385-20) 33 27 77, info@ aroma-ragusea.hr, www.aroma-ragusea.hr.

DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com. hr.Open 09:00 - 20:00. June - September Open 09:00 - 23:00. A FRANJA COFFEE & TEAHOUSE A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC‑3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, dubrovniksanja@ gmail.com, www.franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. June August Open 09:00 - 24:00.A KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. May Open 08:00 - 21:00. June Open 08:00 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. A OLEOTEKA UJE Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC‑2, Placa 18, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr.

Open May 09:00 - 23:00. June - October Open 09:00 - 00:00. A

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Shopping AFFORDABLE ART DB BRAND Tired of all the basic t-shirts offered to remember your trip at souvenir shops? Dubrovnik Brand (dB) is the answer to your problem. They use original motifs, representing this region, to design their unique chic and stylish t-shirts, such as sketches of the Rector Palace door knocker, the Dubrovnik gargoyle Maskeron, traditional wedding earrings from the Župa region, as well as an outlined profile of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Additionally, to keep you safe during your travels, they offer Rozeta lucky charm bracelets. These simple, yet classy bracelets will help illuminate your life, as they represent light.Q B-2; D-4; C-2 Adriatic Explore, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4; Duchkas Concept Store Dubrovnik, Ulica od Pustijerne 1; Zlatarna Križek, Boškovićeva 2.

KADIFAČA - MUSEUM SHOP A new series of products, created by using Kadifača, the traditional embroidery pattern of folklore costumes from the Konavle region, are now available at the museum shop in the Rector Palace. Divided into two collections, the Colour Collection and the Black Collection, they offer bookmarks, keychains, necklaces, placemats and coasters. These unique designs were created by Svjetlana Despot, owner of the Design Center Datadecor in Rijeka. She is known to be one of the best interior and product design specialists in Croatia.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/storaditi/muzejska-prodavaonica/.

TURQWISE Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are designed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as well as graphic design modern art posters and photos, which represent the sea.QB‑2, Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www. turqwise.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. June - September Open 10:00 - 24:00. J ŠKAR WINERY The small family-run business started selling it's homemade Lekri wines from Pelješac. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavorscareb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists.QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, sales@ lekri.eu, www.lekri.eu. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

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Shopping |croatian

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

BOROVO STORES IN DUBROVNIK Obala Stjepana Radića 9 Za Rokom 7

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

VINOTEKA MILIČIĆ Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77, dolores.racic@yahoo. com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

MODNI KANTUN A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it's a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41, modnikantun@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

DESIGNER CLOTHING

XD XENIA DESIGN Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.QG‑4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17/(+385-20) 33 11 75, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July - August 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00 - 12:00. A­G

CROATIAN DESIGNERS ROOM Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this is the ‘be all end all' of Croatian mainstream fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.QC‑3, Od puča 11, croatiandesignersdubrovnik@yahoo.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. June Open 10:00 - 21:00. July - August Open 10:00 - 22:00. A

dB Brand Archives

MARIA If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it's the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.

QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@ mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

July - August Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Summer 2016 81

Shopping JEWELLERY

SOUVENIRS

CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. J­A

BABOON Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W

DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality jewellery for a great price. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, dubrovniktreasures@ gmail.com, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Open 09:00 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935.

They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, d4@zlatarna-krizek.hr, www.krizek.hr. Mon, Wed, Fri Open 10:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. July Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

BAČAN HANDMADE PRODUCTS Here you can go all out ‘folk' with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale.QD‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21, lena. janjalija@dubrovnikportal.com. Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. J­N DUTY FREE SHOP The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

IVO BIOČINA - DECORATIVE SCULPTORS WORKSHOP A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J­N MUSEUM SHOP The Rector's Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.

QD‑3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector's Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W PALMA Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

TILDA Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD‑2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, tildadubrovnik@gmail.com, www.tildadubrovnik.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. June - Septemeber Open 09:00 20:00. A WAXING LYRICAL Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@vostanibrod. com, www.vostanibrod.com.

82 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

DUTY FREE SHOP www.airport-dubrovnik.hr tel: +385 (20) 773-333

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