Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Dubrovnik Summer 2021

Dubrovnik, not just for summer!

A thing or two to know... Travel

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Shopping

NO BOOKING NEEDED

11:00 Jun 1 to Oct 31 16:00 Jun 1 to Oct 31

15:00 Jun 1 to Oct 31

SCHEDULE 2021

10:00 11:00 15:00 16:00 16:30

MEETING POINT

THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Oct 31 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Jun 1 to Oct 31 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Jun 1 to Oct 31 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Jun 1 to Oct 31 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Oct 31

Meeting Point for all tours is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain (located within the City Walls).

LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Check the details, schedule and book online WWW.DUBROVNIK-WALKING-TOURS.COM Tel. +385 20 436 846, +385 95 744 7474

Contents It’s arguably in summer that Dubrovnik’s charms are at their seductive best. The city’s sufficiently busy with tourists for everything to be up and running. Dubrovnik in summer is a hot, usually hectic place that requires a bit of patience and forward planning if you are going to enjoy it to the full.

This year is a bit of an exception as it is less crowded, with no tourists swarming the city from the cruisers, thus giving you an opportunity to enjoy ‘The pearl of Adriatic’ at its best.

The best time to visit the Old Town which is under UNESCO’s protection is first thing in the morning or late in the evening when it feels like a vivacious summertime city rather than an exercise in physical endurance. And if you want to go up onto the walls, don’t leave it till mid-morning, when it can get too hot. Above all, don’t treat the Old Town as the only show in town: take the seafront path from Lapad to Babin Kuk, or explore the bustle of Gruž harbour.

If you decide to take a cable car to the summit of Mount Srđ, plan to spend an hour or two strolling on the plateau behind the cable-car station or head east to the village of Bosanka. High summer in Dubrovnik may be perfect for mid-day siestas in case you decide to stay in the city itself.

Since this year you won’t be dealing with the usual summer crowds, you will have time and space to explore both Dubrovnik and its surrounding exclusively. Don’t stick to the nooks and crannies of the city only, take a chance to explore the lush gardens of Trsteno or wild beauty of the Elafiti Islands.

The whole Dubrovnik region is known for its fascinating landscapes, abundant Mediterranean vegetation, mild climate and picturesque settlements. You can consider taking a ferry or catamaran to the island of Mljet where you can stroll around the fascinating saltwater lakes comprising the breathtaking Mljet National Park, one of eight National Parks in Croatia. Take a chance to see as much as you can while in Dubrovnik – you won’t regret it!

Top Summer Events 6 You won’t be bored

Local Flavour

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Treat yourself or be treated

Restaurants

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Spicing things up

Coffee & Cakes

18

‘How’s that sweet tooth?’

Hangin’ Out

19

Music to your ears

Sightseeing Check out the highlights 4 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Places That are Perfect for a Total Getaway

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Priceless places

Top Sights around Dubrovnik

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Discover what we’ve uncovered

Dubrovnik Surroundings

32

The top gateways

Shopping

40

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Arrival & Getting Around

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Lost? Help is at hand

Maps & Street Register Street Register Top Natural Sights of Southern Croatia City Map City Centre Map

46 47 48 50

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Arber Pacara/unsplash Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Top Summer Events

You can see the exhibition of the Dubrovnik artist Nikolina Šimunović entitled ‘Lapis lazuli’ in the Dubrovnik Art Gallery until July 18. With this exhibition, the artist marks 20 years of exhibition.

01.07 - 15.07 » Ponta Lopud Festival

Ponta Lopud Festival has been organized in cooperation with the Sarajevo Film Festival, and brings film screenings in the open as well as unique gourmet experiences, all in a relaxed atmosphere of the Lopud island. Local people will beactively participating in the program through presentation of the traditional handicrafts and souvenirs, customs and local food. In partnership with the Lopud 1483 Foundation of the famous collector Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza, all visitors of the Ponta Lopud Festival will be able to visit the restored Renaissance Franciscan monastery of Our Lady of Špilica and the Thyssen-Bor family art collection, according to the pre-arranged schedule. Admission to film screenings and other parts of the publicly announced program, is free. During the Festival days the special boat transfer will be organized from Dubrovnik and back at a symbolic price. QLopud, Obala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.pontalopud.hr/en/.

Nikolina Šimunović, Photo by Miho Skvrce

Top Summer Events 11.12.2020 - 25.07.2021 » Alati i kalafati – Tools and Caulk

At this exhibition you’ll be able to see part of the collection of tools used in shipbuilding belonging to the Maritime Museum. The collection comprises 450 items from the 19th and 20th centuries. The collection celebrates both cultural heritage and a dying craft, and also includes a history of carpenters in shipbuilding. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13.

01.06 - 30.09 » Moreška Sword Dance

A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians.

The Moreška was common across Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of swords. June and September every Thursday at 9pm; July and August every Monday and Thursday at 9pmQKorčula, www.visitkorcula.eu/.

06.06 - 12.09 » Summer in Gruž

Gruž asan important part of the city, incorporates the business zone and serves as the key transit point of Dubrovnik, with its harbour and the Central Bus Station. At the same time, it is also a historical place with the old Dubrovnik villas as well as the perfect location for the Summer in Gruž festival that will last throughout summer. The program of the festival includes concerts, film screenings, workshops, pop-up gastronomic events, pub quizz nights, exhibitions, flea markets and sports events. Off program offers additional events outside the main festival program that will take place in the private premises and terraces, mostly located in the TUP factory complex.

For more information, check: www. gruz-festival.com/.

29.06 - 06.07 » International Opera Arias Festival ‘Tino Pattiera’

Devotees to opera music will adore the entire set up of this international festival which annually draws some of the greatest stars in the genre. The Rector’s Palace is a majestic setting for such an event dedicated to ‘Tino Pattiera’, a local world famous tenor who in the first part of the 20th century had sung at most of Europe’s major opera houses. Photo by Zoran Marinović, DSOQD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+38520) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

01.07 - 31.08 » The Cavtat Summer

Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first weekend in July. All the events are for free.Qwww.visit.cavtatkonavle.com.

10.07 - 25.08 » 72nd Dubrovnik Summer Festival

Few cultural events are associated with their home base quite so closely as the Dubrovnik Festival, a renowned cultural showcase which – famously – stages performances in ambient venues all over the historic city.

First held in 1950, the festival this year celebrates its 72nd edition, cementing its role as Croatia’s foremost artistic flagship. With a programme that embraces theatre, orchestral music, opera and ballet, the festival as always brought top international performers to the city and delivered art of unimpeachably high standards. While not being an overtly avant-garde festival it has never shied away from experimentation, and the programme tries to strike a balance between the classical and the contemporary. The Cameroonian-American jazz musician Richard Bona will appear at

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the 72nd Dubrovnik Summer Festival with the Cuban pianist Alfredo Rodríguez and the Croatian Radio and Television Jazz Orchestra on Tuesday, 20 July at 9.30 pm in front of the Dubrovnik Cathedral. Ticket reservations for this event can be made via e-mail at sales@dubrovnikfestival.hr or by phone at +385 (0)20 326 100 or +385 (0)20 326 107. QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www. dubrovnik-festival.hr.

19.09 » Ston Wall Marathon

This unique marathon race takes place in the equally unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very own pace.Qwww.ston-wallmarathon.com.

23.07, 22.08 21:30 » The Linđo Folk Ensemble

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when highspirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Old City in front of Dubrovnik Cathedral.

QFree, www.lindjo.hr.

27.08 - 21.09 » International Late Summer Music Festival

Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical and cultural vibrancy alive.

Until mid-September, a number of prestigious European musicians will perform works by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience of the Rector’s Palace.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www. dso.hr Summer 2021

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Local Flavour Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

baisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish – grilled meat – pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognese. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouilla-

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

Photo by Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Photo

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Local Flavour A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an

by Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

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open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy. The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.­W

Photo by Mljet Tourist Board Archives

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Restaurants Above 5 Restaurant Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche.

Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited. 3 courses or 5 courses menus for lunch and dinner.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com. Open 07:30-10:30, 12:00-15:00, 17:00-21:20. (595 - 1075 kn). A­T­B­J­ Banje Beach Restaurant Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a predominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cocktails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-) 099 3146 485, www.banjebeach.com. Open 12:00-24:00.

(65 - 200kn). A ­P­G­B­J­ W Dalmatino Dubrovnik After several years building up a reputation in the alleys south of Stradun Dalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street.

The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you should try is žrnovski makaruli, the tubular pasta from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/ (+385) 098 32 74 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00. (70 - 200kn). A ­PGTUBJ6­W Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Café Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants. com. Open 08:00:23:00. (100 - 188kn). A­P­G­­U­B­ Fish Restaurant Proto Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:30-22:30. (200 - 300kn). A­P­G­U­B­W Gradska kavana Arsenal In real-estate they say that location is important and this is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from breakfast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establishment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 10:00-23:00.

(98 - 192kn). A ­P­G­B­J Gusta me Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric.

The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Ulica maestra Đela Jusića bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com.

Open 08:30-23:00. (70 - 200kn). A ­PG­T­U­B­S­6­ Kamenice Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00-23:00. (50 - 140kn). A ­U­B­J Konoba Jezuite With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Jesuit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-20) 30 10 14, www.jezuite.com.

Open 08:00-23:00. (60 - 150 kn). A­P­G­­T­B­J­W Nautika The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants. com. Open 18:00-24:00. (510 - 900kn). A ­P­G­­B­J­ dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Nishta Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. (45 - 99kn). A­G­­B­S­J­WW

Photo by Andrija Carli, Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Orsan The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food.

The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+38520) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com.

Open 08:00-23:00. (80 - 200kn). A­PG­T­B­6­W Panorama Restaurant & Bar Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering absolutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restaurant that maintains high standards of food and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reservation. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00-22:00.

(100 - 182kn). A ­P­G­B­W

Stonska torta, Good Food Festival Archives

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

J Old town location

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Pantarul Located near a road junction in the residential part of Lapad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experimentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Pantarul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should always reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul. com. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. (92 - 148kn).

A­P ­G ­T ­S ­L­ Poklisar The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.QD‑2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, www.poklisar.com. Open 09:00-23:00. (98 - 220kn).

A ­P­G­T­U­B­E­J­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

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Summer 2021

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Porat Restaurant & Bar Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby market;although the accompanying sauces and spices may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30–22:30. (70 - 150kn).

A ­P­G­T­U­B­S­6­ Pupo Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.

QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00. (75 - 250kn).

A ­G­T­U­B­S­J­K Sesame Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main! QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr.

Open 09:00-23:00. (60-200 kn). A­P ­T ­B ­S ­J­ 6­W Stara loza Situated at the heart of Dubrovnik’s Old Town, in a historical palace over half a century old, ‘’Stara Loza’’ offers daily fresh Mediterranean ingredients, combined into innovative, flavourful dishes. The restaurant’s vision is to provide you with the experience of excellent cuisine, enriched with a subtle, melancholic salute to Dubrovnik’s authentic and rich history. To compliment the Chef’s creations, their wine cellar offers the finest Croatian wines carefully selected by the restaurant’s skilled team. The interior is decorated with contemporary art making sure that all of your senses are pleased. The efforts of this young, talented team were recognised in 2017 by the esteemed Michelin guide, in which the restaurant is featured to this day.

With its exquisite cuisine, unique rooftop terrace with 14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Photos by Višnja Arambašić

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Restaurants

breathtaking views, superb service and amazing architectural and visual appeal, ‘’Stara Loza’’ will definitely provide for an authentic, memorable Dubrovnik experience.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www.prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00-22:30. (120 210kn). A ­P­G­B­J ­ NEW Taj Mahal Although the name might make you think of India this is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides you with a platter of grillkebabs and meaty chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese.QNike Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik. com. Open 10:00-24:00. (100 - 350kn). Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero. A ­P­G­T­B­S­6­

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Quick eats Bistro 49 This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste…

Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž harbour, a major transit point. The menu personifies everything from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experience at Bistro 49. QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 38. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. (49 - 105kn). A­B­V­W Burger Tiger This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-02:00. (44-85kn). A­P­ G­­T­B­S­J­W Summer 2021

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Restaurants Mea Culpa Tucked away in a quiet and peaceful old medieval alleyway just 100 metres away from Stradun, Mea Culpa is a great place for good pizza and cold refreshments after climbing the City Walls. Every dish here is prepared fresh to order using only the best ingredients. Talented pizza chefs are taught the traditional Roman methods of creating the perfect pizza and bake them in a special high tech pizza oven. Their menu ranges from traditional to unique pizza flavours, and includes a wide array of Italian dishes, lasagnes and a pasta selection that you’d find in top Italian restaurants.QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, pr@pizzashop.hr, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 262kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W

Tabasco The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www. pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open 10:00-24:00. A­P ­G ­T­ B­S­V

Pasta Lab Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik. com/pasta-lab/. Open 10:00-24:00. (38 - 75 kn).

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Tuttobene Pizzeria & Fast Food Whether you are enjoying a family beach day, sunset on the promenade, coffee with a view or kids’ play time, count on needing a sumptuous meal at some point. Sea, sun, fresh air… translates to hungry, yes? And a relaxed day deserves some relaxed food! Grab one slice or sit down to share a pizza, at Tuttobene they promise to crown your Old Town or Uvala Lapad (Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, Open 12:00 - 23:00) time with some cool atmosphere and savory bites. QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, marketing. tuttobene@gmail.com, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik. com. Open 11:00-22:00. (30 - 80kn). A­U­J­W

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Restaurants

Out of Town Kapetanova kuća Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, www.ostrea.hr. Open 09:00 23:00. (100 - 300kn). A­P­G­­T­B­L­W­ Leut Fancy a bite, Leut is a fine-dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel which dines guests both indoors and outdoors as it has lovely garden and sea views for those warm evenings. Leut serves genuine local and international delicacies and the spread they put on for breakfast is grandiose. With an impressive list of premium wines from Croatia and beyond, one can really feel at home here with the world at your plate. QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana 17 (Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel), Srebreno, tel. (+385-20) 60 15 00, www.dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr.

Open 06:30 - 11:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

NEW Marinero If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner – a supremely relaxing treat.

QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 34 56 65/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, marinero.hr. Open 18:00-23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­G­­B­L­6

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Orsan Gverović This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+38520) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www.gverovic-orsan. hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (150 - 300kn). A ­G­B­L­6­ Vila Koruna The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vilakoruna.hr. Open 08:00-22:00. (75 - 150kn). A­PGU­ B­L­J­ W Villa Neretva A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog.

If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada – beef in sauce with prunes and gnocchi.QSplitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, www.hotelvilla-neretva.com. Open 09:00-23:00. (50 - 120kn).

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Coffee & Cakes come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge.QD‑4, Stajeva 5, www. cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00-15:00. Closed Tue. A Dolce Vita This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00-24:00. N ­P­B Libertina (Lući) Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though.

A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G­B­6

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Café Festival This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a wellpriced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www.cafefestival.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

A­PGTB6­W Cave Bar More This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. A­W Cogito Coffee Shop In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Mala truba Dubbed by locals as one of the best places to get a nibble, the ‘Mala truba patisserie’ (meaning ‘little trumpet’) is a cute little store filled with delicious pastries, freshly baked bread, sandwiches, cakes, tarts and a world of eatable delights. Lucija Tomašić, a cake master who studied at the prestigious school Le Cordon Bleu in London uses fresh local ingredients and attention to detail is seen in all her crafty foods. The concept is ‘good to go’ so you’ll take your supplies out to eat! QI‑2, Vukovarska 22 (Mercante Centar). Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. N Pupica Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia.

This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00. A­P­ G­T­U­B­J­6­ Soul Caffe This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open 08:00-02:00. A ­P­G­T­B­E­J­6­ dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Hangin’ Out

Lopud Monastery, Photo by Reto Guntli & Agi Simoes

Banje Beach Night Club The Banje Beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-) 099 3146 485 / (+385-) 099 3146 485, www.banjebeach.com. Open 23:0006:00. A ­P ­B­ Gaffe Pub For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel.

Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00-24:00. A­P ­G­ B­J­6­W Glam Beer Therapy Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street inbetween. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00-24:00.

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Irish Pub Karaka Located a stone’s throw from the Stradunbut tucked into an intimate alley, this alien presence in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish term Craic;the name couldn’t have been better chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+38520) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. Open 09:0024:00. A ­P­G­­T­B­J­W Lazareti These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open 20:00-24:00.

Sunset Beach Bar The Beach Bar is part of the Sunset Beach complex, located directly by the sea and it is an ideal place to relax for coffee or juice, through to cocktails or beer. If you are not directly within the beach bar, the waiter will still be able to take your order at any of the sunbed or cabanas areas or deck chairs which you can rent for either half or full day. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Sunset Beach, Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sbd.hr. Open 08:0023:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+38520) 32 22 00. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

Lokrum Island You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat

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cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385) 099 254 67 77/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket with entry to Nature Reserve costs 200kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 30kn.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This

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Lokrum is a small island and nature Sightseeing

reserve and also famous as one of the filming locations of the epic Game of Thrones TV series.

spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

Stradun, Placa When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people.

Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 24:00. No admission.

www.inyourpocket.com Lokrum, Photo by Inera Isovic Pocket 22 Dubrovnik In Your

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Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees.

Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:30. August 1 - September 14 Open 08:00 - 18:30. September 15 - 30 Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 200/50 kn.

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Sightseeing The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks.

Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca.wix.com/ malabraca. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 40/20 kn.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic.

The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. 100 kn. J

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Galleries The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad. hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn.

War Photo Limited A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00-21:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

Unified Museum ticket

Museums

Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej Dubrovnik) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too,

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Sightseeing and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. Homeland War Museum The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.

QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 08:00-21:00. Admission 30kn. Children under 12 free.

Dubrovnik, Photo by Jonathan Smith

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Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00-20:30; closed Mon. J The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain.

The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04. Open 09:00-20:00. Admission 50kn.

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Old town Ul. Nike Gučetića 2, Dubrovnik +385 20 323 221 Hotel Lero Iva Vojnovića 14, Dubrovnik +385 20 640 123

In the point where east meets the west, taste the most delicious bosnian cuisine and feel the warmth fulfilling your very soul in a unique ambiance of our restaurants.

www.tajmahaldubrovnik.com tajmahaldbk@gmail.com

Places That are Perfect for a Total Getaway

Pelješac A spiny finger of land topped by a mountain ridge, the 65km-long Pelješac peninsula stretches northeastwards into the Adriatic from the famous oyster-farming town of Ston. The peninsula is not exactly unknown to tourists but it is far from being over-exploited, offering a plethora of niche locations and little-traveled corners. The main town is Orebić, a beach resort of some popularity on account of its expansive pebble strands. However Orebić remains a family-centred resort rather than a raucous hotspot, and the beaches are big enough to accommodate everyone without too much of a crush. Viganj, west of Orebić, is popular with the windsurfing crowd on account of its channeled breezes, but most of them stay in campsites, there is no line of hotels dominating the shore. Beach connoisseurs will love the fine crescents of shingle tucked away in hidden places like Trstenik, Žuljana and Divna. Above all Pelješac is famous for its wine, with the peninsula’s steep southfacing slopes yielding some of the best reds in the country.

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Imotski Situated on a karst plateau well to the east of the Adriatic coast, Imotski is a historic market town full of stone-built houses and tranquil alleys. It is famous for an astounding pair of natural beauty spots right on the outskirts of town, the Blue Lake (Modro Jezero) and Red Lake (Crveno Jezero). Both are situated in deep limestone depressions which fill with water during rainy periods and drain almost dry in especially hot summers. The Blue Lake is a designated nature park, with well-kept paths spiraling down to the shore and the possibility of taking a swim in the turquoise waters at the bottom. There is a lot of apartment accommodation in the area, and if the stark beauty of the Dalmatian interior appeals, this is the ideal place to enjoy it.

Mljet Covered in dense forests of Black Oak and Aleppo Pine, Mljet is one of the greenest islands in the Adriatic. Situated at the western end of the island, Mljet’s famed National Park gets bags of day-trippers from Dubrovnik, while the rest of the island remains amazingly calm and uncrowded in comparison. Eastern Mljet, with its stone-built villages and sandy beaches, seems worlds away from the bustle dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Viganj, Orebić Tourist Board Archives

of the modern Mediterranean. Quaint cove-hugging villages like Prožurska Luka and Okuklje offer the ideal opportunity for a blissfully relaxing holiday. Also attracting in-the-know lotus-eaters are Mljet’s cult beaches; cute pebbly Sutmiholjska on the south side of the island, and famously sandy Saplunara at the island’s very eastern tip.

Lastovo One of the furthest of Croatia’s inhabited islands from the mainland and the most time-consuming to get to by ferry, Lastovo is perfect for those who prefer their holiday destination to come with an end-of-the-world feel. Lastovo was for a long time off-limits to tourists due to its military importance, and retains the atmosphere of a place where tourism is still a relatively new phenomenon. Lastovo Town itself is a unique and characterful place, its houses arranged on sloping terraces above a verdant plain. Lastovo’s coast features quaint hamlets hiding in coves, where dainty rock and pebble beaches are washed by some of the cleanest seas in Europe. The shallow pebbly-sandy bay at Skrivena Luka is perfect for paddling. The whole island is covered in forest and scrub and is criss-crossed by trails, making it one of the best destinations in the Adriatic for facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

hiking in blissfully unspoiled nature. And when the sun goes down, the lack of light pollution ensures that Lastovo is a wonderful place to watch the stars.

The Baćina Lakes Travellers venturing down the coastal highway south of the Makarska Riviera tend to press on to Dubrovnik without stopping, which might indeed be the biggest mistake of their holiday. Dazzling motorists as they descend towards Ploče are the greeny-blue waters of the Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera), a group of seven little-explored watery expanses that sit on a karst plateau surrounded by attractively knobbly hills. Snuggled up behind meadows and rushes, these crystal-clear freshwater lakes make refreshing spots for a swim and a stroll. Linking the seven lakes is a network of foot- and bike-paths. Other activities include boat trips in traditional lađe (the shallow wooden boats specific to the Neretva region), or taking to the waters aboard kayak or paddle board. That such an attractive and compact lakeland area can exist so close to the coast comes as a big surprise to many; so big indeed that they don’t bother to stop, leaving the area for true lovers of Mediterranean tranquility.

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Top Sights around Dubrovnik

Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (18551922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes.

Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day.

Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.kucabukovac.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; Sun 09:00-12:00. Holidays closed.

Admission 30/15kn.

Metković Natural History Museum Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum. The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event that touches your senses and es-

Okuklje, Mljet, Photo by Antoine Similon

pecially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm. hr. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn.

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

QKonavle.

Mljet National Park & Odysseu’s Cave Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries.

Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva

Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

QPristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www. np-mljet.hr. Open 07:15-20:00.

Admission 125/70kn.

Narona Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej Narona) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385-20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

Sokol tower (Sokol Grad) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high

cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, w w w.cit y wallsdubrovnik .hr.

Open 09:00-19:00. Tickets 70/30 kn.

Ston Saltworks (Solana Ston) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe?

Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston. Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. Admission 20kn.

The Račić Mausoleum (Mauzolej obitelji Račić) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains.

Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, www.migk.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/15kn.

The Walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than

the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/(+385-20) 63 88 01, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr.

Open 08:00-19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

Footpath, Konavle Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik Surroundings Islands Korčula K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

Korčula Tourist Board QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00-19:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional preLent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

Open 08:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-13:00.

Mljet With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.

The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Mljet Tourist Board QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. hr. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-14:00.

The Elafiti Islands Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and Summer 2021

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the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

North of Dubrovnik The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 14) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Orebić, Pelješac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Metković Tourist Board QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat.

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it.

Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Summer 2021

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will hardly be long enough.

Orebić Tourist Board QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00-22:00.

ples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

Ston Tourist Board QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat & Sun 08:00 12:00.

Dubrovačko primorje Tourist Board QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:0012:00, 17:00-19:00.

Slano

Trsteno

Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers. The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times.

Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay.

The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state. The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest exam-

If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many

Montokuc is a prominent peak on Mljet island near the lovely old village of Govedari. Here you’ll find a belvedere and a lookout tower built to help islanders keep watch for fires.

From the belvedere you can enjoy an incredible view of Mljet’s famous lakes and the Mljet National Park.

Mljet National Park Archives

Dubrovnik Surroundings people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Arboretum Trsteno QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 07:00-19:00. 50/30kn.

South of Dubrovnik Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels.

The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Konavle Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle.

The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evidence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhabited the region before them is still visible. In the village of Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to the pagan god Mithras.

In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, notably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.

Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing fortress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and Roman fortifications.

Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.

You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.

Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent hotels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.

Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay away from the crowds.

Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alternative to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food just as people have made at home for generations, plucked fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying something of a revival.

With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recreational activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road 38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist train through the Konavle vineyards.

At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spectacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully displayed, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir.

To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your fingertips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and wonderful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

Tourist Board of Konavle QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00-20:00.

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 08:0014:00; closed Sat, Sun. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Viganj is set between Pelješac and Korčula where the sea channel provides enough wind and waves that has made this a meeting point for wind and kite surfers alike.

Viganj, Orebić Tourist Board Archives

Shopping Clara Stones Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 40, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30 - 13:00; 16:00 - 21:00. A­J Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A Cvijet by Kike For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Dubrovnik Treasures Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.

Open 09:00-21:00. A

Museum Shop One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www. dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/muzejska-prodavaonica.

Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. A­WW

www.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives 40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Shopping Klarisa Gallery Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 18:00-23:00. A Life According to Kawa Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers and covers pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries.QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 01 45, www.kawa.life/. Open 10:00-21:00.

Namfleg Watches and Jewelry A boutique specializing in cloisonné pieces made up of delicate silver compartments filled with vividly-coloured enamel which is fired, polished and plated to a vivid lustre. Jewelry is available in a choice of designs and colour schemes, while the watches with enamelled faces are simply stunning.QB‑2, Zlatarska 17, Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-) 091 590 26 20, www.namfleg.com. Open 10:00-22:00. A­J Škar Winery This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. The small familyrun business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced.

The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 09:00-13:00, 18:00-23:00.

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalmatinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00-20:00; closed Sun. Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives 42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Fairytale of New Coral Carla Stones celebrates a decade of coral workshop and store in Dubrovnik. We spoke with the artist himself, Vittorio Ceccarini

1. Tell us about yourself, what you do and how you got there...

I grew up in Milan, Italy surrounded by gemstones, since my mother is also a jewellery designer. I was always creative and fascinated with all the sparkling stones when I would visit my mother’s office. In my 20s I started to make jewellery. During a visit to Torre del Greco I was lucky to be introduced to the fascinating world of precious corals and this gave me an opportunity to learn so much, giving me passion and respect for this beautiful material. Since then I dedicated my life to spread the story of coral to the world.

2. Let’s kill the myth that coral jewellery is only affordable for the wealthy.

What kind of person wears your jewellery?

All kinds of people wear and buy coral. The person that wears coral jewellery is different, curious and wants to stand out. I think people are attracted to the mythological and mysterious story of coral and there is something about coral and its natural red colour that has fascinated human kind since the dawn of time. Coral is one of the oldest materials used in jewellery making. Its colour symbolises Mars, strength and protection against evil. It can be a status symbol too, but I don’t like to look at it that way. For me coral jewellery expresses the beauty and mystery of the underwater world. I enjoy designing jewellery and my team and I put the same amount of passion into every Clara Stones piece, whether a beautiful one-of-a-kind necklace or just a simple coral bracelet.

4. Vittorio, as a designer, where do you draw your inspiration from?

I don’t want to sound clichéd and say I am inspired by nature, sea, sunsets, but I draw my inspiration from everywhere, whether it is traveling, a scene in the movie, a comic, a joke I hear, people I see on the street or meet in the store.

Dubrovnik and its great history and jewellery tradition are also a never ending source of inspiration.

I want my jewellery to reflect a special moment of peace, harmony, happiness.

5. If I wanted to purchase a piece of coral jewellery in Dubrovnik what are the top three things I have to keep in mind?

Not everything that is red is natural red coral. We are not killing the sea; red coral is protected and extraction is regulated and sustainable. Visit our Clara Stones workshop to find out more about this fascinating material.

6. What is the easiest way (if there is one) to differentiate fake from real coral?

There is a lot of fake red coral and dyed tropical and bamboo coral on the market sold as natural red coral. What we call precious red coral or Adriatic coral comes from the Latin Corallium Rubrum and it is a unique species of coral that grows only in the Mediterranean Sea, including the Adriatic. Red coral has a unique composition that gives it a natural red colour and specific hardness suitable to work with.

For a person who has never seen coral it can be difficult to tell the difference between real and fake. After you experience real coral you will see the difference easily.

If you are in doubt ask for a certificate of authenticity with the Latin name of the coral.

3. I heard there is a story behind the brand name?

The name is dedicated to a woman who raised me, my grandmother Clara who passed away 2 years before I moved to Croatia, so when I needed to choose the name for my brand Clara was a natural choice. Stones came naturally because it sounded good together, and we use some of the most unusual gemstones in the market together with coral. I wanted my brand to represent pure love. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik, Photo by Radek

Arrival & Getting Around

News: There is a fast ferry line

Lastovo-Korčula-Dubrovnik which departs from Lastovo at 6 am, docks in Korčula at 7.15 am and arrives in Dubrovnik at 9.35 a.m. The ferry schedule is subject to change.

Arriving by boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr.

Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Arriving by bus The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 10 hour journey! Ticket office: open 07:00 - 22:00, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 5kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 07:00 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.kolodvor.hr. Open 07:00-22:00.

Arriving by car For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Arriving by plane The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an shuttle bus which trundles into town (55 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day.

A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. 30kn daily ticket is available only at Libertas sales points and is valid 24 hours after activation. Out-oftown routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Tourist Information Centres The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik.

All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

Gruž QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Lapad QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Lopud QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 19:00, closed Fri. From July Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

Pile QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Libertas QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 0800 1910, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr.

Taxi There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

Travel agencies Gulliver travel Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A Vivado Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-)098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. N

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Street register Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2 Brsalje A-2 Brsečinska I-2 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Buža D-1

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Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava

K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2 I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4

Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića

H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2

Jakljanska H-1 Janjinska H-2 Josipa Kosora I-3 Kantafig G-1 Kardinala Stepinca F-2 Kaznačićeva C-3 Kliševska G-2 Kneza Domagoja H-2 Kneza Branimira I-2 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3 Kneza Hrvaša C-4 Knežev dvor D-3 Koločepska L-2 Komajska H-2 Komolačka G-1 Konavoska L-2 Korčulanska I-3 Koritska H-1 Kotorska I-3 Kovačka D-2 Kralja Tomislava H-2 Kunićeva C-2 Kunska I-1 L. Matačića H-1 L. Rogovskog G/H-2 Lapad G-3 Lapadska obala H-2 Lazareti L-2 Lazarina L-2

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TOP NATURAL SIGHTS of Southern Croatia

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3 5 9 6

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Lunj Olive Grove, Island of Pag

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(olives more than a thousand years old) 2

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11 10 13

Telaščica Nature Park - Salt lake Mir

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17 19 18

(A lake that is saltier than sea water)

Vrana Lake Nature Park (And one of the peculiarities of the lake is the autochthonous eel species, which spawns only once in its life and then dies.)

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Kornati National Park (A stone labyrinth of eighty-nine islands, islets and cliffs in the sea these are the Kornati)

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Krka National Park (Krčići, Topoljski buk, Manojlovac, Roški Slap) The main attractions of Krka include waterfalls, the river canyon, lakes, bathing places, boat tours and unique flora and fauna

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Biokovo Nature Park

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(a mountain with roots in the sea, and Sveti Jure is, with a height of 1762 metres, the highest peak of Biokovo and the third highest mountain peak in Croatia)

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Vranjača Cave

Elafiti Islands (The Elafiti are a group of islands located west of Dubrovnik.

Although they are no longer inhabited by deer, the archipelago owes its name to them)

Đurovića Cave (Đurovića cave spreads over 9000 square metres, and is located below the runway of Dubrovnik Airport)

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The mouth of the Neretva 20

Baćina lakes

(The Pakleni islands are between Split and the island of Vis, and its 21 nautically attractive islets and cliffs that seem to be connected to the town of Hvar by a ribbon)

Nakovana Cave (cave and archaeological site of the Illyrian sanctuary on the Pelješac peninsula)

Blue and Red Lake

Paklinski islands near Hvar

Vela Cave (a fascinating cave above Vela Luka on the island of Korčula)

Arboretum Trsteno (The oldest arboretum in the world was built around the Gučetić-Gozza summer house in 1494.)

Sapluni Bay (Saplun is a beautiful, extremely wooded and shady island Lastovo, and it has what is very rare on remote islands in the open sea sand!)

(You can also get to know the lakes by riding a 15km long cycle path that connects five of the seven Baćina lakes) 12

Mills on the river Ljuta (In the 15th century, the people of Dubrovnik bought Konavle and founded four mills there. By the 19th century, 15 in total had been built, with a large system of stone canals that distribute water. The Republic of Dubrovnik never sold the mills)

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(The mouth of the Neretva is the best Croatian kiteboarding place, ideal for all levels of kitesurfers) 11

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(The canyon itself was written about back in 1774, when the work The Road through Dalmatia was published, by the famous Italian biologist and travel writer Alberto Fortis)

(Packed with stalactites and stalagmites, cave pillars and arcades, some halls are bluish and green, and some sparkle sprinkled with crystals)

Mljet National Park - Big and small lake (Veliko and Malo jezero are a natural phenomenon of Mljet National Park and also the most visited place on Mljet)

Cetina river Canyon

(The water level fluctuates considerably during the year, so it is not uncommon for it to sometimes dry up completely, and the residents of Imotski then traditionally play football at its bottom) 9

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Blue Cave (The unreal beauty of the Blue Cave on the island of Biševo) Odysseus' Cave (Mljet is also called the island of Odysseus, because according to legend, it was also visited by the Greek hero Odysseus)

City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique

48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

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Summer 2021

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Dubravka

50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock Café

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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