Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No24

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Spring 2018

Spring Kicks

Fall in love with Dubrovnik’s surroundings

Local flavour

Keep the tradition with cuisine

N°24 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Peruna ceramics

What’s On 8 You won’t be bored

Medieval Times

13

Ladies of the Night

Restaurants

14

27

Coffee & Cakes 30 What a plesure

Check out the highlights

Dubrovnik County Map

44

Leisure

54

Shopping

56

Dubrovnik Basics

59

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Arrival & Getting Around

60

Lost? Help is at hand 31

Music to your ears

Sightseeing

44

The top gateways

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Age old tradition

Nightlife

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Recreational pleasure

Spicing things up

Local Flavour

43

Meet Morana Depoli

34

Maps & Street Register Street Register City Map City Centre Map

63 64 66

Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the most attractive on this planet and a walk along them is an absolute must.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović

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Spring 2018

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Foreword It’s arguably in spring that Dubrovnik’s charms are at their seductive best. The cityis sufficiently busy with tourists for everything to be up and running; all those cool bars and restaurants that take a well-deserved winter break tend to open their doors again by April, and are well into their stride come May.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja

The streets are yet to be swamped by the summer crowds, however, allowing the locals the time and space to display that not-rushed-off-their-feet sense of hospitality and spontaneity that makes the Croatian coast that little bit more welcoming than some other places in the Med. The weather is usually reliable enough for al-fresco dining,and you probably won’t be fighting fellow tourists for a table in quite the way you might be later in July or August.

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Nikola Badovinac, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Andrea Pisac, Jonathan Bousfield Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research & Community Manager Dora Gaćeša Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives, Photo

by Andrija Carli Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac

Indeed it’s in the gloriously bright but mild weather that spring really comes into its own. It’s the ideal season for exploring – not just all the nooks and crannies of the city itself, but also the lush gardens of Trsteno or the wild beauty of the Elafiti Islands. It’s a great time for hiking, picnicking, cycling and kayakinginstead of simply lolling on the beach.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

And don’t just take the cable car to the summit of Mount Srđ and come straight back down again; spend an hour or two strolling on the plateau behind the cable-car station, or head east to the village of Bosanka. High summer in Dubrovnik may be perfect for mid-day siestas and long sultry nights, but it’s in spring that the yearning for adventure really takes flight.

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6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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What’s On CLASSICAL CONCERTS 06.04 - 11.04 » STRADUN CLASSIC

Spread over two cycles throughout 2018, one of the nations most gifted musicians Maria Pavlović returns home and will be performing with the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. Special guests will include oboist Tom Owen, bassoonist Pieter Nuytten, hornist Boštjan Lipovšek, violinist Daniel Rowland and others. As a devotee to chamber music, she will be performing several concerts of the genre. Qwww.dso.hr.

13.04. – 27.04 » DUBROVNIK MUSICAL SPRING

In only its second year running, the Dubrovnik Musical Spring is aimed at enriching the city’s cultural offer in spring and it features the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra.

The event is a cycle of classical music concerts and this year will feature some noted national and international artists performing in conjunction with the orchestra including trumpetist Džemal Cakić, violinists Dmitry Sinkovsky and Marco Graziani and many others. Qwww.dso.hr.

05.06 - 12.06 » BAROQUE MUSIC CYCLE ORLANDO FURIOSO

In the weeks leading up to summer, Orlando Furioso is a cycle of baroque music organised by none other than the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. From performing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons to songs of the British Isles, the Music Director Dmitry Sinkovsky, a Russian virtuoso famous for his baroque violin, will conduct proceedings in association with guest ensembles and musicians. Qwww.dso.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 01.03 - 02.04 » CASE HISTORIES - A HISTORY OF ILLNESS IN THE ANCIENT WORLD

Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra Archives

What’s On

On loan from the Archeological Museum in Zagreb is this fascinating collection of Roman-era medical instruments, mostly unearthed in the Roman trading town of Siscia (nowadays the town of Sisak just south of Zagreb). Accompanying exhibits show the kind of medicines that Roman doctors prescribed to their patients, and the frightfullooking surgical interventions made on those who needed to go under the knife. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus. hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue.

16.03 - 01.04 » TADAO ANDO: PUNTA DELLA DOGANA 2018.

ENRICH YOUR CALENDAR, SEE THE EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, AND SPECIAL EVENTS IN AND AROUND TOWN

This exhibit represents the collaboration between the famous contemporary and award-winning Japanese architect Tadao Ando and the Oris publishing house, from Croatia. The exhibition showcases some of Andao’s main topics that he uses in his art, such as transcultural dialogue, openness to cultural exchange and respecting the legacy of the place that is undergoing architectural intervention. The main focus will be on Andao’s transformation of the old customs office building Dogana da Mar, opposite St.Mark’s Square in Venice, into a Museum facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

of Contemporary Art.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon.

20.03 - 29.04 » LUKŠA PEKO: TERRA INCOGNITA

Lukša Peko’s Terra Incognita, aka ‘The Unknown Land’, in its original Latin name, already carries ancient ideas and assumptions about a world which, although unfounded and untrue, have provided for endless speculations and fantasies to emerge. In a series of paintings, this Dubrovnik-born artist uses strong yellow, red and blue tones to enhance the impression of equatorial heat to a magical and dreamy place. The dot-technique pattern that Peko uses on almost all of his paintings rhythmically float in the eye of the observer, making them look vibrant and dynamic.QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90.

01.04 - 15.07 » STEPHEN DUPONT: WHY AM I A MARINE?

Australian photographer Stephen Dupont spent August 2009 embedded with an American marine platoon in Helmand Province, Afghanistan. Dupont used the opportunity to compose a journal of diary entries, polaroid photographs of each individual marine, and the answers the soldiers gave when Dupont asked them why they were marines. Much more than just a collection of images, it’s a warm, moving and at times disturbing portrait of a group of men at war. “I want to gain an intimate window into the lives of one platoon” says Dupont himself. “I’m hoping to capture something of these men’s hopes and fears, the nationalism and pride, the thrill and the terror, the impact of a never-ending war…. I leave my small notebook with them over many days so that each man will have time for reflection and to write something personal.” QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

07.04 - 06.05 » MARKO ERCEGOVIĆ: I AM SHOWING / WHERE WE LIVE

The solo exhibition by Marko Ercegović, a Dubrovnik photographer with a Zagreb address, includes a selection from his earlier photographic series’ which is united under the title I Am Showing (Enchanted, Two in the Bush, Small Changes, Ding...), and the series Where We Live from 2015. A distinct feature of Ercegović’s photography is the delicateness of a captured scene of everyday life that is manifested in fragments, as well as use of the unusual ambivalent positioning of the observer versus a narrative discourse of photography.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon.

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What’s On 11.04 - 13.05 » MAN AND THE SEA

The history of fishing on the eastern shores of the Adriatic, illustrated with the aid of historical fishing tools, fish-farming techniques, and some fascinating pictures of the kind of mythical sea monsters that played such an important role in the seafarer’s imagination. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue.

17.04 - 08.06 » ORCHIDS OF CENTRAL DALMATIA

Awkward? No! Orchid? Yes! This amazing photo exhibition has both an educational and natural scientific character and interestingly, it is also a mobile exhibition which aims to educate visitors about the various types of orchid flora as well as raise awareness in preserving and protecting various orchid species particularly in the Croatian region of Central Dalmatia stretching from the islands of Vis, Brač and Šolta to Kaštela, Kozjak, Muć and Mountain Svilaja.QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

03.05 - 17.06 » IVONA VLAŠIĆ: THE LINE OF THE ABOLISHED HORIZON

Dubrovnik artist, Ivona Vlašić is known for her multimedia works which is deeply embedded in this deep insight of life and death, the essence of the absolute spirit. She seeks to stop its destruction at multiple levels, trying to find something that is free of any addiction, something that is perfect yet still disappears. In her art work, the artist deals with the possibility of a pure place which is found on the line of the abolished horizon. QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90.

18.05 - 18.06 » CVIT ADRIONA

Photographs of flowers from the Biokovo National Park, taken by one of Croatia’s most prolific contemporary photographers, Ivo Pervan. The wild blooms of this barren unspoiled stretch of mountain include a lot of rare alpine

What’s On plants, and this beautiful exhibition has a correspondingly magical, exotic feel. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

27.06 - 30.07 » SMOKE - THE STORY OF TOBBACCO

This all-embracing history of the fragrant weed begins in pre-Columbian America and stretches its way across the centuries. The display takes in pipes, cigarette advertisements, social rituals and the role of tobacco in poplar culture, before winding up with the growth of health consciousness, and subsequent government attempts to wind down the appeal of the demonic death-dealing triffid. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

FESTIVALS 14.06 - 17.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE

Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www. lepetitfestival.com.

SPECIAL EVENTS 06.04 - 08.04 » AKLAPELA

Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!QD‑2, Dominican Church, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00, www. aklapela.hr.

Dubrovnik Museums Archives

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Orebić Tourist Board Archives

17.05 - 20.05 » FOLKLORE FESTIVAL “MOONLIGHT ON THE NERETVA” This traditional folklore festival takes place at the Neretva River delta in the town of Metković. The four-day event brings together performers of traditional song and dance from across Dalmatia, other areas of Croatia and even around Europe.Visitors get the chance to see performances featuring traditional costumes that breathe new life into the area’s rich cultural heritage.QMetković, www. tzmetkovic.hr/en/.

FOOD & DRINK

21.06 - 02.07 » KINOOKUS - THE FOOD FILM FESTIVAL

The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, bio-diversity, ecology, nutrition, and more. In its 8th edition, it serves up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture with the theme being Sailbites - a journey through Dubrovnik’s gastro-heritage. All six sections of the festival will deal with the revitalisation of the rich heritage of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as well as its cultural, social, and economic potential and significance.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr/.

28.04 - 02.05 » LET’S GO TO PELJEŠAC, THE KINGDOM OF WINE!

SPORT

It’s fiesta time in Potomje, the wine-making village just east of Orebić on the Pelješac peninsula. Potomje lies on a plateau just inland from the steep, vineyard-covered slopes of the peninsula’s southern coast; the rugged, arid salty region that produces Croatia’s richest and most flavoursome Plavac Mali grapes. The red Plavac wines made here (especially those featuring grapes harvested above the coastal villages of Postup and Dingač) are among the most highly prized in Croatia – something that this long weekend of May-Day festivities aims to celebrate. Visitors to Potomje will be able to take part in visits to over 20 local wineries (buses and a tourist train will be laid on), drink wine at plentiful local stands, and listen to musical entertainment provided by local brass bands. Qwww.tzorebic.hr.

Four fantastic running events to be held over two days.

Turn sporty and choose from the “21K”, a 21 km long race which starts and ends on Stradun. “Run the wall” is a 2km race which follows the entire lenght of the ancient walls.

The “5 K” also starts and ends at Stradun and goes through to the Gruž harbour. Finally, we can’t forget our juniors with their “Kid’s Day” run from the Onofrio Fountain to Luža. All in all, a great atmosphere is truly felt around the place with this perfect combination of sports, culture and beauty. Log onto www.du-motion.com to reserve your entry!QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.du-motion.com.

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28.04 - 29.04 » DU MOTION

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What’s On REVELIN FORTRESS

Ladies of the Night in Medieval Times BALLET & DANCE

Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

Written by Andrea Pisac The story of Dubrovnik prostitutes in the Medieval and Renaissance times is just as important as many lofty political and cultural achievements of the Republic. These ‘ladies of the night’ left no written testimony about the quality of their lives. But legal acts and criminal court archives from that time point to an intriguing attitude that the state and society had about them. Whether they simply turned a blind eye to their way of life or outright supported them, the Republic treated prostitution as it did all other important state affairs - pragmatically.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket.

Linđo Folk Ensemble Archives

01.05 - 15.10 » THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr/. 21:30 Every Tuesday & Friday.

14.05 - 20.05 » DUBROVNIK OUTDOOR FESTIVAL

Feeling adventurous! Then you’ve come to the right place with the 2nd edition of this festival taking place in May, along the Konvale bay. 7 days of various competitions for people of all visitors young and old will be held; try sea kayaking, running, abseiling, hiking, biking, rockclimbing, a duathlon and more amidst some of the most spectacular surroundings combining forestry, mountains and the sea. Workshops in adventure tourism will also be held amongst other fun frenzied activities. Venture for adventure!Qwww.dubrovnikoutdoor.com.

19.05 » GREEN TREKK MLJET

An international fun run using the footpaths and mountaineering trails of Mljet National Park. There’s a kids’ race at 10:00, and three runs for adult competitors throughout the day: the 12km Ogiran, the 20km Calypso, and the muscle-stretching 31km Odysseus. All events start and finish at the little village of Soline, right next to the island’s famous lakes.QMljet, www.mljet.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com 12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE INTRIGUING STATUS OF PROSTITUTES IN THE DUBROVNIK REPUBLIC

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Several court cases prove that even when prostitutes received punishment for unruly behaviour, it was never connected to their line of work. They would actually freely state their occupation as ‘meretrix’, a word describing a registered prostitute in ancient Rome. Unlike in other European cities, in the 13th century Dubrovnik, there was no legislation proscribing a particular attire for prostitutes (a hood or a belt). And it was only in 1409 that an act limited their activities to a particular part of town called ‘Castelleto’.

Historians believe that Castelleto may even have been the name of a brothel situated in the part of today’s Dubrovnik called Kaštel.

There are a few reasons why the Republic pragmatically tolerated prostitution. One had to do with the marriage norms of that time. Namely, most noble marriages were arranged and only at the point when the man reached financial security, around the age of 30 or 40. Sometimes with up to 20 years age difference between them, spouses honoured their marital agreement but lacked romantic love. This, of course, only allowed men to seek pleasure outside the walls of their home.

The second reason was to protect the chastity of young noble women. As a busy trading port, Dubrovnik always buzzed with young males boasting their virility. To reduce the rape and crime rate during such bacchanalias, the Republic welcomed services provided by the prostitutes. It was a pragmatic solution and a way to choose a lesser evil.

Some sources reveal that the Republic even financially supported brothels. The care they extended especially towards aging prostitutes is a definite sign of how socially sensitive Dubrovnik society was. But the particular ‘retirement’ measure they introduced was also very pragmatic. Namely, when a ‘working woman’ was ‘too old’ to do her job, the state chose a nobleman to marry her, thus securing her a ‘pension’. If a nobleman refused to perform this duty for his homeland, he would have had to pay an extremely high fine. The reasoning behind this mechanism was simple and effective: it was more opportune for the Republic to socially integrate such a women than to make her into a charity case. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, photo by I. Brautović

With the advent of Humanism and Renaissance, moral values began to change. Free enjoyment of bodily pleasures coexisted with even stricter sexual norms. Because the age of Renaissance also meant the rebirth of the body, there were more instances of syphilis. And it didn’t take long for the medicine of that time to connect sexually transmitted diseases with visits to brothels. Late 15th century records show that several Dubrovnik prostitutes were actually banished from town due to their line of work. But some historians argue such banishments had more to do with where they conducted their business - outside Castelleto - rather than with the nature of their business.

There is still much to be discovered about the everyday lives of these ‘ordinary’ Dubrovnik citizens. And as history begins to focus on more marginal stories, certain things become clear. Attitudes to prostitution in the Dubrovnik Republic are not some isolated quirk, but a reflection of a society that was socially and culturally among the most advanced in Europe of that time.

Spring 2018

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Restaurants CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­W

KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurantkomin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn). P­T­ A­6­L­G­B­X­W

BISTRO TAVULIN Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal in this ancient setting.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+38520) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

(100 - 170kn). P­J­G­B­X­W

KOPUN Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.restaurantkopun. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­ G­B­X­W

DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). P­i­A­U­G­B­W

MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimozadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). P­i­ T­A­E­G­B­X­W

DUBROVNIK A consistently good place for succulent seafood pasta dishes and quality grilled or baked fish, the Dubrovnik was one of the establishments rewarded with a place on Michelin’s list in 2017. The covered roof terrace is one of the Old Town’s most evocative dining-out locations; there’s a good list of top Croatian wines, and service is very smooth indeed.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 10, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (120-280 kn).

KAVANA TEATAR Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.

This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 -17:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. (35 - 100kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­ S­W 14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 23:30. (80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W ZOE Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace.

As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course. Prices are per evening menu.QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+38520) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). P­A­L­G­B­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants ETHNIC CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385-) 099 68 52 380/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 14:00 - 24:00. (55 - 155kn). P­V­N­B­S­W

Restaurants MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 19. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). P­T­J­A­6­ U­G­B­S­W TAJ MAHAL First things first, the food isn’t Indian but Bosnian though the immaculate décor has an Eastern influence. Back to what’s important, the cuisine. Expect a cross-cultural fusion of East meets West with fresh ingredients priority one.

Homemade flatbread is a must; top sellers include čevapi, meat platters, lamb stew, shish-kebabs, soups, house wine and more. Their authentic Turkish coffee is the best way to winddown. Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (90 - 160kn). T­A­6­G­B­S­W

INTERNATIONAL

Azur Restaurant Archives

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

AZUR It’s only been around for a few years but is already one of Dubrovnik’s most talked-about restaurants, a place that you may well have read about before you arrive. The Azur approach is simple; take fresh local ingredients, apply oriental spices and cooking techniques, and bring to table. The results are always full of flavour, and frequently rather magical. Prices are very reasonable by Dubrovnik standards. Thy have a sense of humour too, “Fork It!” being a typical exhortation on the seasonally-changing menu.

Secluded alleyway location and mellow vibe complete the picture.QD‑4, Pobijana 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 06, www.azurvision.com. Open 12:30 - 23:00. (28 - 150kn).

P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W LA CASTILE This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, you’re in for a real treat! Prices are per evening menu.

QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­W

Gusta Me Restaurant Archives

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LUCIN KANTUN One can expect the best of Mediterranean dishes and they also do tapas. Their open kitchen style of cooking is almost like sitting back and watching a scene from the MasterChef series. Presentation is personified; service is dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

impeccable, interior is charming! With little to fault, this hidden treasure is located in a back alley just off Stradun and is the perfect escape.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (60 - 180kn).

P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W MAGELLAN The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300kn). P­A­U­L­E­ G­B­X­S­W PANTARUL A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.

The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 140kn). P­T­A­L­G­S­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www.poratdubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00. (70 - 150kn). P­i­ T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W STARA LOZA One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a recommendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s fine-dining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of European classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), beautifully prepared and presented. The starters involve a few notable adventures in global fusion, and the dessert list is second to none. For a total blow-out, the multicourse tasting menus are well-worth considering. There are great views from the indoor part of the restaurant and the rooftop terrace is quite simply stunning – be sure to reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www. prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (100-210 kn). i­B­J­W­A

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Restaurants TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverne has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (80 - 200kn).

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Restaurants KONOBA DALMATINO DUBROVNIK Newly located on Prijeko Street, this tavern with all the Adriatic prerequisites has been a smashing hit amongst locals and tourists for quite a while. Just as its name, Dalmatian food is the be all end all of the cuisine with platters, tuna steak, fish soup, black squid risotto, jacket potatoes, veal skewers, wok veggies, pastas, steaks and more to offer. We won’t even start on the desserts and wine list. This really is a Dalmatian sensation you shouldn’t miss!QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­ B­X­W KONOBA JEZUITE Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www. restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). J­A­B­W PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.

QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). T­J­A­U­G­B­K­X­S­W

Dor’o Bar & Grill Archives

BREAKFAST ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (65 - 120kn). J­A­B­W PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­i­T­ J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (140 - 175kn). P­i­T­J­A­G­B­ X­S

LIGHT BITES BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(14 - 30kn). P­J­N­G­B­W BURGER TIGER This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com/. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (44 - 85kn). P­T­ J­A­G­B­X­S­W SNOGU STREET WOK BAR The former café just outside Ploče Gate has been subjected to a rather splendid makeover, and is now a street-food joint serving wok-fried fusion dishes. Chose your desired base (rice or pasta) followed by key ingredient (beef, seafood or veggies) and a choice of sauce from curry to sweet-and-sour. “Dubrovnik Mix”, featuring a mixture of squid and shrimp, is the house special. Décor is bright-orange-meets-cool-black, and the location couldn’t be better; a pleasant place to sit if you’re eating in. QE‑1, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 92 365 58 66. Open 11:00 - 22:00 (76 - 106 kn). A BV TUTTO BENE Top city fast food place with a lavish choice of meals to devour! Choose from mega sandwiches, kebabs, burgers, chicken wings, tortilla wraps, salads and the best prepared French-fries along the Adriatic. Service is friendly and fun with suitable prices also. You’ll find them located in central position in the Old Town and they now have a lovely restaurant in the Lapad Bay, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www. tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (15 45kn). J­A­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

MEDITERRANEAN ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad.com/ restaurant-2/. Open 08:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (200 250kn). i­T­J­A­B­W AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (120 - 250 kn). P­A­G­B­X­W Spring 2018

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Restaurants

Restaurants anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustamedubrovnik.com. Open 08:30 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).

P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W KLARISA Since they’ve been operating in Dubrovnik for only a few years, you can be forgiven for thinking that this restaurant has always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they never know what the catch of the day will be – that’s how fresh their fish is. Their brand new Renaissance kitchen offers delicious meals, such as homemade fish soup, Turbot fillet (Oven-baked in paper bag with fresh vegetables) and tasty scallops with black truffles risotto, as well as delicious Almond and bitter orange cake (gluten free) for dessert. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 220kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­I­E­ G­B­X­W

Dalmatino Dubrovnik Archives, photo by Katija Živković

BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT A hidden gem right on the beach where you can wine and dine with the pebbles and sea a stone throw. The Banje Beach Restaurant is elegant in look and service, the decor is a gentle blend of stone and wood which meets the Mediterranean as does the menu where local ingredients predominate. The wine list is broad and covers the local and global pick. All in all, a fine experience to be had!QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W CULTO Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds.

Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­B­W GUSTA ME This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for 20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LAJK Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.

Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads, bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.lajkrestaurant-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00 - 14:00 18:00 22:00. (120-260kn). T­A­6­B­W

NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.

Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (510 - 900kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR It’s hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the top of Mount Srđ or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty meal or simply a drink while you look out over the bird’seye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view is to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright and sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spectacular scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.

QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/ (+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. (70 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W POSAT Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat has been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for decades – although it is in recent years that it has been elevated to the fine dining league. The place prides itself on fresh fish, crabs and prawns; this is one place where it

might be worth splashing out on the grilled fresh catch.

Diners are rewarded with magnificent views of Dubrovnik’s walls, perfect for an evening of relaxed culinary indulgence.QK-3, Uz posat 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94, www.posat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (170 270kn). P­J­A­G­B RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-20) 358 368, www.restauranthorizont.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 200kn). P­T­ A­L­G­B­X­S­W SALVATORE This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.

And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed your soul.QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.

From April 10 Open 08:00 - 18:30. June Open 08:00 19:30.

MARIANNO Set back from the Lapad seafront, there’s something quietly sleek and modern about Marianno that comes as a welcome change from some of the more themed restaurants elsewhere. The contemporary-design interior with its neat white tables and bright orange chairs is offset by a thoroughly traditional menu, with Dalmatian seafood backed up by a solid selection of local wines. One of the few places where you can get soparnik (a sort of Dalmatian tortilla with blitva and garlic) as a starter. QG-2, Mata Vodopića 2a, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 33, www.restaurantmarianno. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (120-220 kn). A­B­W­P MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City.

Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 110kn). P­T­A­6­U­ L­V­G­B­X­S­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants SEGRETO PASTA&GRILL Just off the Stradun in one of those intimate alleyways that tourists often miss, the aptly-named Segreto offers a resolutely traditional Italian menu revolving around fresh pasta in all shapes and sizes. It also excels in the grilled steak line and wraps things up with some fine desserts.

QK-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 92, www. segretodubrovnik.com. Open 11:30 - 24:00. J SESAME Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. Once you enter, the décor takes you on a journey of this grand city whilst the culinary scents begin to override your visual senses. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main!QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60-200 kn).

B­A­T­6­W­S­P­J TRATTORIA CAPRICCIO Situated at the end of a blind alley right beside the entrance to the Aquarium, Capriccio takes its Italian cuisine very seriously, offering a compact traditional menu of pasta, seafood and lamb chops. They also do spicy frogand-eel stew (a speciality of the nearby Neretva Delta) if you pop in and order it a day in advance. They take great care over their wine list, and the outdoor alleyway seating is delightful if you can get a table.QK-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 10, tel. (+385-) 091 612 41 16. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(140 - 220kn). AWBA­T VAPOR A Michelin guide restaurant, Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn). P­i­T­A­U­L­E­G­B­X­W

youtube.com/inyourpocket 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

MEET THE MEAT DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, www.restaurantdomino-dubrovnik. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­ U­G­B­W PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

PIZZA & PASTA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (35 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­S­W PASTA LAB Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00.

(38-75 kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­S­W TRATTORIA Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset Beach complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building houses a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serving traditional-style pizzas. They also do bruschettas, salads, pastas and burgers, plus inexpensive lunchtime specials in the shoulder season. There’s an adjoining café-patisserie with some rather fine cakes. Freshly-squeezed juice and Korlat aged brandies add class to the drinks list. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17, Lapad Bay, tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sunsetbeachdubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn).

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Restaurants

Restaurants

SEAFOOD BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 10:00 - 22:00. From May Open 10:00 - 24:00. (35 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­G­S­W FISH RESTAURANT PROTO Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00 From May Open 08:00 24:00. (50 - 140kn). J­A­B LEVANAT This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 24:00. P­A­G­B­X­W ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsandubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). P­i­ T­A­6­G­B­X­W VILLA RUŽA OLD CITY BISTRO When quality overrides quantity, Villa Ruža Old City Bistro sets the benchmark in regards to Dalmatian cuisine with owner chef Ruđer Jelavić insisting on using fresh local produce from fishermen and neighbouring gardens. The stunning terrace of the restaurant and the local cuisine 24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Above 5 Restaurant, Stari Grad Hotel Archives

prepped with a modern touch make this bistro well worth a visit.QD‑4, Ilije Sarake 1, tel. (+385-) 098 44 33 82, www.villa-ruza.com. Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

(140 - 260kn). T­J­A­B­K­X­W

VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (58 - 108kn). J­A­G­B­X­S­W

Out of town CAVTAT BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dalmatino Dubrovnik Archives, photo by Katija Živković

use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 280kn). T­A­L­B LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

P­A­U­G­B­W TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.

Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 130kn). P­A­6­U­G­B­X­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

KONAVLE KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the best the region has to offer.

QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. From April 15 Open 16:00 - 22:30. (70 - 160kn).

T­A ­6 ­L ­B ­W NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants. com/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). A­L­G­B­ X­W

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Restaurants

Local Flavour

KORČULA

PELJEŠAC

LOCAL DISHES

ADIO MARE Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn).

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D’ORO BAR&GRILL Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies Mediterranean food with its local offer. One can expect fresh seafood, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with olives, prosciutto, cheese etc. The beers and wines are refreshingly chilled, and probably best of all is the location; a covered terrace right on the beachfront overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a place to chill and be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 85 25 85/ (+385-) 098 32 74 04. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (90-160kn).

A­B­W

Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12. Open 18:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 180kn). A­6­U­G­B­X­W

LASTOVO TRITON A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 07:00 24:00. (60 - 200kn). i­N­G­B­X­W

LOPUD OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront.

The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www. obalalopud.com. May - October Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(150 - 300kn). P­A­G­B­X­W

MLINI KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner – a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, www.vivado.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­6­L­G­B­X­W 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

STON VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vilakoruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). P­J­A­ U­L­G­B­X­W

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

ZATON

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

ANKORA The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, www. restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. From May Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­B­X­W BABILON When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat Mediterranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly!

With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and dinner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 150kn). P­i­A­6­L­G­B­W ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

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This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

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A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

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Adding an imaginative new twist to Dubrovnik’s burgeoning gastronomic reputation, Piknik Dubrovnik can provide you with a rucksack-hamper full of locally-sourced goodies and give you advice on the best place to eat it. More info on www.piknikdubrovnik.com.

Local Flavour there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

PELJEŠAC WINES Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo).

In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond.

Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production.

Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies.

Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste.

Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown.

An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo.

Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.

More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day.

With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Coffee & Cakes CAKES ARIJA Situated right by the playground and exercise park opposite Gruž harbour, this friendly family destination decked out in pinks and sky blues is one of your best bets for made-on-the-premises cakes and sweets. The house speciality Arija torte is a deliciously creamy affair with light sponge base, although there’s plenty more to choose from, with carrot cakes, cream slices and muffins beckoning you seductively from behind the glass of the counter display. With a scattering of high stools, it’s a good place for eat-in cake and coffee.QH‑2, Nikole Tesle 9, tel. (+385 - )095 557 7916.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18 - 26kn).

A­W­P­S GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK If you’re looking for a quick snack while exploring Dubrovnik then GosSip is the perfect spot to stop by. Located on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 under the name Eat&Sweet!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 950 67 22, www.icecream-dubrovnik. com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (14 - 50kn). T­J­N­S PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­i­T­ J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W SLATKI KANTUN - PASTRY & COCTAIL BAR Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding bow, SlatkiKantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, although it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium.

With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sunset glinting off the waves.QF-2, Nike i Meda Pucića, 13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A

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Nightlife CAFÉ FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www. cafefestival.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­A­6­G­ B­X­W CAVE BAR MORE This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A­W CELE Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun, within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result.

It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas, burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu if you’re hungry. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. (60 130kn). J­i­A­B­W­S COGITO COFFEE SHOP In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge. Cold coffee and fresh fruit juice also served.​​​​​​​QD‑4, Od Pustijerne 1, www. cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. A

BARS ART CAFFE Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. G­B­X­W BUŽA What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions. B­X BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­U­E­B­X­W

GLAM BEER THERAPY Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00 02:00. P­J­6­N­G­B­W MIRAGE Located in the Old City of Dubrovnik, just behind the Cathedral in the Bunic Square, Caffe Bar Mirage provides an excellent service while creating a unique experience for every guest. With an offer, ranging from warm beverages to the most famous cocktails in town, this vibrant bar is a popular local and tourist hangout.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-) 091 400 90 78. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­B­X­W ROCK CAFFE EXIT Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. P­J­E­N­X­W

LIBERTINA (LUĆI) The oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened

by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two.

Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00.

6­G­B­X­W SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. From April Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­A­6­EG­BX­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife THE BAR BY AZUR A new venture from the team that run the Azur restaurant, this roomy (at least by Dubrovnik Old-Town standards) bar on two levels features cool matt-black stylings and comfy chairs in pop-art colours. Creative cocktails are Azur’s strongpoint; there’s also a big choice of gins, and a respectable range of craft brews – including tasty sipping beers from Zagreb’s Garden and Zmajsko stables.

QK-3, Kunićeva 5, tel. (+385-20) 45 44 77, https://www. azurvision.com/. Open 16:00 - 02:00. J­G

CLUBS BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.

Open 22:00 - 04:00 during peak season, otherwise check their Facebook page. P­A­B­W CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin. com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. From Mid May Open 23:00 - 06:00. P­A­W LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 05:00.

PUBS GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.

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IRISH PUB KARAKA This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to Dubrovnik. It’s a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink with your friends while you’re out visiting the Old Town.

Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com.

Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W

WINE BARS D’VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. Breakfast is served 8:00 - 12:00.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, www.dvino.net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. From April Open 08:00 - 02:00. i­J­A­G­B­W LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­ 6­B­X­W MATUŠKO This local family is known for producing some of the finest wines from Potomje, a village located in the Pelješac region. Their wine bar, located in the Old City is a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass of awardwinning Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are currently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www. matusko-vina.hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­ E­G­B­X­W RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea.

Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 31 17 38/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information.

A return ticket costs 120kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 20kn.

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west.

The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street.

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With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people.

Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. No admission.

THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must.

The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence.

Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, photo by I. Brautović

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, photo by I. Brautović

Photo by Lili Bašić, Food & Travel Photographer

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Sightseeing of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees.

Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Admission 150/50 kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height.

The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www. malabraca.wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 30/15 kn.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Closed till June due to renovation. J

GALLERIES OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine houses – which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

PULITIKA STUDIO As you stroll around the Old Town make sure to visit this studio located in the very City walls. The former private art studio owned by one of Croatia’s most famous contemporary artists, Đuro Pulitika, has been converted into an exhibition space and is one of three homes to the city’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMa). It houses a plethora of artworks dedicated to this grand city and its citizens spanning centuries!QE‑3, St.John Fortress, tel. (+38520) 32 31 04, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with a peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s premier modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several mediums and artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel. (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com/.

THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/ RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candycoloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for Spring 2018

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Sightseeing students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building.

Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free. From May admission 25kn.

Sightseeing WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. April Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. From May Open 10:00 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

LANDMARKS BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other. The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 18:00. From June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 60/20 kn.

GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+38520) 32 53 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. April Open 09:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. Round-trip ticket 140/85 kn. From May round-trip ticket 150/85 kn.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

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Sightseeing ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence.

This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www.parkorsula.du-hr.net.

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures.

The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, 40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Sightseeing followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+38520) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Tue. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv.

Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART DUBROVNIK (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.momad.hr/. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults,100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

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Sightseeing THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 20:30. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (5+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J

What’s going on? facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Peruna ceramics HOMELAND WAR MUSEUM The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 09:00 21:00. Admission 30kn. Children under 12 free.

THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain.

The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 50kn.

Photo by Marija Gašparović

Meet Morana Depoli, a young artist who creates beautiful collections of household ceramics.

DIYP: Morana, what brought you to Dubrovnik?

Morana: I came to Dubrovnik seven years ago because I had met someone from here. I had also visited the city regularly for years before that, that’s how I gradually got to know it.

DIYP: Does your environment affect your inspiration? Are there places in Dubrovnik that you find particularly inspiring?

Morana: Of course the context that we are in influences everything that we do, including our creative processes.

What inspires me most of all here is the pleasant climate, the peace that I have on the Lapad peninsula where I live and work, and the proportions of the city where everything is close to hand. Those are the external factors which enable me to hear myself and put something of myself into the ceramics which I design and make.

were created on the basis of good communications and defining a concept with their owners. We always start with the material itself and my limitations, because I like to take a realistic approach to what I am dealing with.

After some time doing testing in my studio we choose the samples which will make up the set of dishes.

I try to give myself space to express myself freely even when I am working on an order for a client, and they usually have confidence in my work.

DIYP: You also organise courses in ceramics. Do you enjoy the role of a teacher?

Morana: Teaching courses in ceramics I currently find very fulfilling since I really do wish to pass on my knowledge of this ancient technique for working with clay.

Through many years of work with the potter’s wheel I have gained useful experience which I am glad to pass on to others. I have a positive approach and I think that anyone who is attracted to the wheel can learn to make ceramics if they have a good teacher. And that worked well for me with each of the ten or so students that have learned this skill in my studio.

DIYP: Finally, where can our readers find your work?

Morana: Peruna ceramics are made in Dubrovnik, on the Lapad peninsula. You can order them on www.peruna.hr or buy them in a number of places in the city, notably the KAWA shop at Ploče.

DIYP: How did you start off in ceramics and find your calling?

Morana: Clay is a wonderful material which lets itself be shaped in countless ways. All you have to do is understand its basic laws and surrender yourself to it. I chose the potter’s wheel as the tool with which I dedicate myself to creating ceramic objects. I was simply magically attracted to the wheel and dreamed that one day I would learn how to use it. And my dream came true and today it is my job.

DIYP: You create beautiful, useful objects which in a way also become a souvenir. Have you ever thought about your work in that way?

Morana: My ceramics are created in Dubrovnik, and, as I mentioned, this place does influence my work. It doesn’t have the characteristics of a souvenir in any shape or decorations that represent the city, but they are ceramics which are souvenirs through the very fact that they are made in Dubrovnik.

DIYP: You have set up a partnership with some small restaurants and businesses and created ceramics especially for them. Is there any difference between creating an item according to someone else’s wishes and working only with your own ideas?

Morana: The partnerships which I have set up with some small restaurants have been very interesting. They 42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Photo by Marija Gašparović

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Dubrovnik Surroundings picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south.

KORČULA CITY MUSEUM Q20260, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, www.gmkorcula.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 20/8 kn.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F. Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

LASTOVO Mljet Tourist Board Archives

Islands KORČULA K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone throw from the main square and you’ll be bedazzled by the amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures.

The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the mainsquare and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the 12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood and most of which were brought across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And that’s just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all.

As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town.

Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise. Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages.

Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sut, Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00.

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@npmljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.

Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Lastovo Tourist Board Archives, Photo by S.Tafra

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

North of Dubrovnik

Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari.

It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too.

NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island.

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements.

In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.

A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

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As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life

Mljet Tourist Board Archives

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.

Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Boris Kragić

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ METKOVIĆ) Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum.

The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats.

One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr/. Open 09:00 - 16.00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385-20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. From June Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 12 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sat, Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00., Closed Sat, Sun.

SLANO Orebić Tourist Board Archives, Photo by B. Kačan

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it.

Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

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Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers.

The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

ant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a

fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

ARBORETUM TRSTENO QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. From May Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn.

South of Dubrovnik CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

SLANO TOURIST BOARD QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sut, Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descenddubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Dubrovnik Surroundings imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Admission 30kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (18551922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI RAČIĆ) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat. 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.

KONAVLE The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of

Dubrovnik Surroundings Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume.

Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.

The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high

cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00 - 15:00.

Tickets 70/30 kn.

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00, Closed Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. From May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sut 08:00 - 12:00, Closed Sun.

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Leisure

Leisure Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

ADRENALINE ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).

QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 099 445 56 95, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement. A

and 650kn horseback riding (including the transport from/ to Kojan Koral), as well as segway off road on the island of Lokrum.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

EXCURSIONS DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES A top tour operator company offering an assortment of great escapes from one day and on as they promote active, eco and adventure tourism. Choose from country wine tours, cycling tours, island hopping on a bike, excursions, hiking and multi-sport tours just to name a few.

Top notch tour guides combine history and humour fused with food and beverages in ready-made packages that will leave you with lasting memories of Dubrovnik and its natural surroundings.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00. From May Open 08:00 - 22:00. A DUBROVNIK SAILING Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure to recreational all down to professional sports sailing.

Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches, caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be working overtime and all you need to do is let the skipper know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. dubrovnik-sailing.com/.

GREEN SEA SAFARI

ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, biking and hiking in Konavle. More information on contacts below.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 182 89 95, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

BLUE PLANET Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www. blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.

QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They offer ATV Quad Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle mainland, for the price of 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Green Sea Safari Archives

Doing good has its rewards, and this non-profit association has one key mission and that is to clean the beaches, islands and bays of the Adriatic Sea and its underwater world from plastic, bottles and similar waste. Starting with Dubrovnik, the project depends solely on the help of its members and donations. So be active, tours involve cleaning a specific bay for an hour and then the rest of the day is action packed with snorkelling in caves, exploring the islands and beach bars. One boat can carry up to 12 persons per day!Qgreenseasafari.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Shopping

Shopping ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

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ART GALLERIES AR BASTION A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00-15:00. A ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings

by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired by episodes and stories from the history of the republic.

QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73, www.jadranka-munitic.com/. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. N KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 22:00 From May Open 12:00 - 24:00. A LUNA+SOL ART GALLERY Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contemporary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewellery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale.

In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that they also organise transport and delivery worldwide.

QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www. lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A 56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.

Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

CHIC & CHEERFUL BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

From October working hours are subject to change, check their Facebook for updates.

CVIJET BY KIKE For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00, Closed Sun. A LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA Set in a rather fabulously renovated garage directly above the Ploče Gate, Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers (except for the drinking horns made by Slovenia’s ingeniously odd Goat Story), and covers pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. Even the mugs, fridge magnets and postcards are totally different from anything you will find elsewhere. The T-shirts made by the Kawa team or commissioned from local artists are totally unique, and will be treasured as highly wearable artefacts rather than dutifully-purchased souvenirs. The emphasis dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries. QK-3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 0145, www.kawa.life. Open 12:00 - 20:00.

TURQWISE Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are designed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as well as graphic design modern art posters and photos, which represent the sea.QB‑2, Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.turqwise.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. J

DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other wellknown cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. gligora.com. Open: 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.

A­G­B KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 21:00. A ŠKAR WINERY Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.

The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 10:00 13:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

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Shopping

Dubrovnik Basics SOUVENIRS BABOON A traditional craft store in Dubrovnik where you can find handmade jewellery, paper flowers and various original gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W

TAJ BUTCHERAJ MEAT BOUTIQUE Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning to cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-themove snacks. They also stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chilli sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalmatinska 40. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

JEWELLERY CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30 - 16:00, Closed Sun. J­A DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. A KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. A

DEŠA PRO Founded in 2012 by the ‘DEŠA Association’, this is about a noble cause aimed at employing women 40 or over, women with disabilities and other socially excluded people through the production and sale of quality and innovative textiles and gastro products inspired by Croatian heritage.

See their products which are hand-made, unique, whether woven, embroidered, painted or knitted and bear the identity of the Dubrovnik City, and our Mediterranean climate.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. A MUSEUM SHOP One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/ muzejska-prodavaonica/. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj, handmade lace from Lepoglava, ceramics and vases, silk scarfs, natural cosmetics and all sorts of delicatessens like truffles, olive oil or local honey.QB/C‑2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, www. medusa.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From April Open 09:00 - 22:00. A PALMA Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

TILDA Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD‑2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54. Open 10:00 - 19:00. May Open 10:00 - 20:00.From June Open 10:00 - 21:00. A

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NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 1 Easter April 2 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 31 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY BOAT There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00.

Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

During summer, June 9 - September 18 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and interna-

Arrival & Getting Around tional ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet April 24 - October 28. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 80 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

ARRIVING BY BUS COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. T​ here are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060

30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www. autobusni-kolodvor-dubrovnik.com/en/. Open 05:30 22:30.

ARRIVING BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

ARRIVING BY PLANE DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (40 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no.

11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a few times a day. Airport Shuttle buses now operate from Dubrovnik Airport to Korčula Island, Pelješac and Mljet – includes Vela Luka, Brna, Korčula Town, Lumbarda, Orebić, Trpanj, and Prapratno (for ferry to Mljet). The bus runs daily from 30.04 to 30.09.2017 with connections several times a day. To book your place on the shuttle bus (advance booking only), simply get in touch with the korkyra.info travel agency. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250 kn.QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airportdubrovnik.hr.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00.

LAPAD QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From May 16 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. May Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Fri. June Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Closed Fri. PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. From June Open 08:00 - 21:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From June Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. From May 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu, Sat Open 14:00 - 20:00. June Open 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed.

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Arrival & Getting Around CAR RENTAL AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.

Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A HERTZ Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-acar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A UNI RENT Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en/.

Street register TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT LIBERTAS The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12 kn from news kiosks (15 kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25 kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385-20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

TOWED AWAY If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en.

TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A KORKYRA QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

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VIVADO Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

www.inyourpocket.com A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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City Map

City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius Restaurant Levanat

Banje Beach Restaurant

Merit Casino

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Dubravka

66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock CafĂŠ

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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