Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No25

Maps

Events

Restaurants

CafĂŠs

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Dubrovnik Summer 2018

Secret Gateways

Explore surroundings

Croatian Rakija N°25 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

The Rough and the Smooth

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Croatian Rakija

Marin Držić Dubrovnik Surroundings 8

The Rough and the Smooth

What’s On 10 You won’t be bored

Restaurants

18

32

Coffee & Cakes 35 What a plesure 36

Music to your ears

Sightseeing Check out the highlights

Dubrovnik County Map

50

Leisure

60

Shopping

63

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Age old tradition

Nightlife

50

The top gateways

Recreational pleasure

Spicing things up

Local Flavour

49

Favorite Dubrovnik playwright

42

Dubrovnik Basics

67

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Arrival & Getting Around

68

Lost? Help is at hand

Maps & Street Register Street Register City Map City Centre Map

71 72 74

An applause after a Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra performance which will perform a great array of concerts with leading conductors and musicians from across the world throughout the Summer and across various programmes. Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra Archives

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Summer 2018

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Foreword Summer in Dubrovnik is always going to be crowded; but there are ways of turning your back on the hubbub and enjoying the city in any number of intimate and personal ways. One thingyou should do at least once is get up early and enjoy the town before the cruise-ship groups arrive. It’s one of the few times of day when you will see locals pottering around socializing and doing business rather than simply working behind a shop counter or tending a bar. You will also get to enjoy the extraordinary early morning light, when the city takes on the kindof silky-honey appearance that helps your photos to leap off the screen.

The other thing you should de properly in Dubrovnik is eat.

Read our restaurant reviews, reserve tables if you can, and take the whole experience seriously. The city is slowly and surely turning itself into a genuine gastronomic destination, thanks to a mixture of fine dining, breezy bistro culture and the cult of fresh local ingredients. Twelve of Dubrovnik’s restaurants made it into this years’ Michelin guide, and upmarket eatery360 Degrees was awarded a much-coveted Michelin star - it’s one of only three Croatian restaurants to have one. You could quite easily pick another dozen restaurants in Dubrovnik that are on the verge of inclusion on such a list; and another dozen or more in the surrounding towns and islands that Michelin inspectors never get to. The emphasis on quality,craft and keeping it local is filtering through all to aspects of the eating and drinking scene, affecting everything from cakes to ice cream and coffee.

The increasing availability of good Croatian wine (and cute bars in which to sip it) has, in the space of a decade, emerged as a Dubrovnik nightlife trademark. Talk of the townin 2018 however is beer rather than wine, with the local boutique brewery opening a band-new tap room in Gruž – let’s just hope that that’s a corner of the city that the cruise-ship groups never quite get to.

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Andrea Pisac, Jonathan Bousfield Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research & Community Manager Dora Gaćeša Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Photo by Facundo Farias, Dubrovnik Cablecar Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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The Rough and the Smooth of Croatian Rakija When we asked a colleague at the Dubrovnik Tourist Office to tell us something about the social role played by rakija,her answer was immediate and precise. It’s the ideal way to clean your windows, she said, especially when applied with a scrunched up sheet of old newspaper.

Whether you live in a household of sparkling panes or not, Croatia’s favourite spirit does indeed play an important part in local life. Usually made from grapes left over from winemaking, or from orchard fruits like plums or apricots, the body- and soul-warming drink is an inescapable part of the nation’s social glue. However the Croatian passion for rakija is often misconceived by foreigners, who assume that it signifies some wild Balkan temperament, a propensity for heavy drinking, or the kind of enthusiasm for downing shot after shot that turns every Friday night into the greatest adventure you just can’t remember.

In fact, Croatian rakija consumption, rather like Croatian coffee consumption (also frequently misrepresented as some kind of local mania), is rather measured. You’ll encounter it most often as a welcome drink when entering someone’s home as a guest, or as an aperitif that is served at the start of the day’s main meal. When your friends offer you a rakija every time you cross their threshold, it’s not because they want you to carry on drinking rakija after rakija for the rest of the day. (Indeed it’s their propensity to keep on filling your wine glass that will eventually send you under the table.)

The other important thing about rakija that every Croat will tell you is that it is a proven form of folk medicine which is in every way superior to anything you might get at the local pharmacy.

“If you cut yourself, you can apply rakija to the wound” says our window-cleaning informant from the Tourist Office. “And if your blood pressure is high, you can drink it to calm down.”

“When I was growing up everyone had a bottle of rakija at home” says Darko Perojević of Dubrovnik’s Bar Azur. “Our grandmothers would put rakija on a compress and place it on a child’s forehead if they had a temperature.” According to the barkeeperat the Soul Caffe, another Dubrovnik haunt that prides itself on stocking a solid choice of standout rakijas, “walnut rakija is very good for stomach ache; carob rakija is good for body cramps; andmisletoe rakija is good for blood pressure.” So next time you’re feeling under the weather, head for the nearest bar and pull up a stool.

So where does this all-healing elixir actually come from?

The most common forms of Croatian rakija are those made from grapes (lozovača) or plums (šljivovica).Most other orchard fruits can be used whenever they are abundantly available – apricots, apples,pears and quince among them.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

In the past, rakija would be distilled at home by any household that had access to these basic ingredients; indeed domestic rakijais still distributed privately throughout the country, even though you may no longer see it on open sale at markets. It’s a strong drink – domestic forms of rakija will have an alcohol content of over 40%, commercial brands slightly less – so it’s important to keep track of how much of the stuff you’re quaffing.

It’s the grape rakija that is most common in the coastal regions of Croatia, because it’s here that orchards are far outnumbered by vineyards. Arguably the defining rakija of coastal Croatia is travarica, the grape-basedspirit infused with the kind of wild herbs characteristic for this part of the Mediterranean.There is no set recipe for travarica, and each producer will have invested a lot of time in arriving at their own distinct blend of herbs.

Rakija-based liqueurs are made by mixing rakija with honey, cherries, walnuts, pomegranate, mistletoe, carob and figs. Arguably most famous of the liqueurs is pelinkovac, the bitter wormwood-flavoured spirit that is highly regarded as a stomach-settler and as a general pick-me-up on cold, wet days.

With so many variations on the rakija theme, there’s a lot for the curious traveller to get through. According to Darko Perojević, “tourists always ask us for rakija. And they’ll inevitably ask for šljivovica because it’s the one they’ve heard of.

It’s up to us to help them differentiate between the good and the bad.” Darko’s Bar Azur has a classy list of international wines, whiskies and gins, but keeps a full range of rakijas in an effort to increase appreciation of this characteristic local drink. The nearby Soul Caffe prides itself on the range of rakijas and liqueurs listed on the blackboard beside the door, and offers knowledgeable advice to the increasing numbers of visitors who are eager to try them. “We try to emphasize it as a before or after dinner drink” says owner Antun. Soul Caffe’s barkeeper more or less guesses what kind of rakija people might like just by looking at them, and often tells customers what they are going to be ordering before they’ve even opened their mouths.

Rakija’s reputation as a rough drink not for the fainthearted is rapidly fading, to be replaced by a renewed appreciation of its subtleties. Newer bars are increasingly eager to demonstrate to their customers that rakija is something to be savoured and appreciated. It may never be as noble a drink as wine or whisky, but the idea that it is anauthentic part in the Croatian gastro experience is slowly taking root.

The more you develop a taste for rakija, however, the more difficult it is to keep track of how many you’ve had. Newfound fans of the spirit should be warned that rakija drunkenness is the kind that hits you suddenly, by surprise, just at the point where you were beginning to believe that you were sufficiently robust to handle it. It’s the sweaty, hallucinogenic drunkenness that will have you sending incomprehensible tweets and texts at 3am in the morning before falling asleep in the bathtub of the wrong room, in the wrong hotel. A sore head and a burning mouth is all you’re going to be getting for breakfast.If, on the other hand, you want to take your rakija like a true Croat, maybe you should start cleaning windows. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Midsummer Scene Archives, Photo by Grgo Jelavić

What’s On ENRICH YOUR CALENDAR, SEE THE EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, AND SPECIAL EVENTS IN AND AROUND TOWN

What’s On CLASSICAL CONCERTS

OPERA

05.06 - 12.06 » BAROQUE MUSIC CYCLE ORLANDO FURIOSO

30.06 - 06.07 » THE 11TH INTERNATIONAL OPERA ARIAS FESTIVAL ‘TINO PATTIERA’

In the weeks leading up to summer, Orlando Furioso is a cycle of baroque music organised by none other than the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. From performing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons to songs of the British Isles, the Music Director Dmitry Sinkovsky, a Russian virtuoso famous for his baroque violin, will conduct proceedings in association with guest ensembles and musicians.Qwww.dso.hr.

21.06 05:00 » ANA U GRADU

Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and this is your chance to welcome summer in a very different way, in an early sunrise, surrounded with nature and great performance.Qwww.anarucner.com.

28.08 - 21.09 » 6TH INTERNATIONAL LATE SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL

Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical and cultural vibrancy alive. Until mid-September, a number of prestigious European musicians will perform works by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience of the Rector’s Palace.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

01.09 - 16.09 » KORKYRA BAROQUE FESTIVAL

Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can choose from concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the Argentina, Finland, Poland, France, UK, Danmark and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style, come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot! QKorčula, www. korkyrabaroque.com.

04.09 - 14.09 » STRADUN CLASSIC

Spread over two cycles throughout 2018, one of the nations most gifted musicians Maria Pavlović returns home and will be performing with the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. Special guests will include oboist Tom Owen, bassoonist Pieter Nuytten, hornist Boštjan Lipovšek, violinist Daniel Rowland and others. As a devotee to chamber music, she will be performing several concerts of the genre.Qwww.dso.hr.

27.09 - 12.10 » AUTUMN VARIETY MUSIC FESTIVAL

The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra will have their hands full for two full weeks with a great array of concerts to be held with leading conductors and musicians from across the world appearing on certain evenings. A true taste of musical culture!QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Devotees to opera music will adore the entire set up of this international festival which annually draws some of the greatest stars in the genre. The Rector’s Palace is a majestic setting for such an event dedicated to ‘Tino Pattiera’, a local world famous tenor who in the first part of the 20th century had sung at most of Europe’s major opera houses.

QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+38520) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 01.04 - 15.07 » STEPHEN DUPONT: WHY AM I A MARINE?

Australian photographer Stephen Dupont spent August 2009 embedded with an American marine platoon in Helmand Province, Afghanistan. Dupont used the opportunity to compose a journal of diary entries, polaroid photographs of each individual marine, and the answers the soldiers gave when Dupont asked them why they were marines. Much more than just a collection of images, it’s a warm, moving and at times disturbing portrait of a group of men at war. “I want to gain an intimate window into the lives of one platoon” says Dupont himself. “I’m hoping to capture something of these men’s hopes and fears, the nationalism and pride, the thrill and the terror, the impact of a never-ending war…. I leave my small notebook with them over many days so that each man will have time for reflection and to write something personal.” QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com.

03.05 - 17.06 » IVONA VLAŠIĆ: THE LINE OF THE ABOLISHED HORIZON

Dubrovnik artist, Ivona Vlašić is known for her multimedia works which is deeply embedded in this deep insight of life and death, the essence of the absolute spirit. She seeks to stop its destruction at multiple levels, trying to find something that is free of any addiction, something that is perfect yet still disappears. In her art work, the artist deals with the possibility of a pure place which is found on the line of the abolished horizon. QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

01.04 - 31.10 » THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA

T​ he expression every picture tells a story has its merit.

This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Behrakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www. warphotoltd.com.

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What’s On 18.05 - 18.06 » CVIT ADRIONA

Photographs of flowers from the Biokovo National Park, taken by one of Croatia’s most prolific contemporary photographers, Ivo Pervan. The wild blooms of this barren unspoiled stretch of mountain include a lot of rare alpine plants, and this beautiful exhibition has a correspondingly magical, exotic feel. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

01.06 - 30.07 » TRANSPARENT SOURCE ANTIQUE GLASS FROM THE DUBROVNIK ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Glass from the first century BC to the sixth century AD, including some beautiful examples of Roman-era perfume bottles and tableware.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr.

15.06 - 15.06 » THE BODY OF MY BODY

Portrait photographs of parents and children at all stages of life. Displayed without comment or interpretation, they are deeply touching.QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr.

27.06 - 30.07 » SMOKE - THE STORY OF TOBBACCO

This all-embracing history of the fragrant weed begins in pre-Columbian America and stretches its way across the centuries. The display takes in pipes, cigarette advertisements, social rituals and the role of tobacco in poplar culture, before winding up with the growth of health consciousness, and subsequent government attempts to wind down the appeal of the demonic death-dealing triffid. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

JUL - DEC » THE SOUNDS OF INSECTS: AN ORCHESTRA OF THE SMALLEST

Insects communicate through a mixture of sounds and vibrations, many of which are very difficult for the human ear to pick up. Thanks to a Slovene-French project many of these sounds have been recorded and presented here, alongside a display of the insects that produce them.QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

17.07 - 31.10 » WADE GODDARD: THE KOSOVO WAR

Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives

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A photo exhibition depicting the horrendous war in Kosovo which had left thousands killed and over one million expelled can be seen through the camera of Wade Goddard, a New Zealand photographer and witness to the war. The emotional rollercoaster that he portrays through his photographs exemplify the bitter tragedy and effects that war can have on the human heart and soul.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 01.08 - 01.11 » MAP-MAKING HERITAGE FROM THE ARCHIVES OF THE DUBROVNIK MARITIME MUSEUM A fascinating collection of maps, maritime charts and globes from the sixteenth century to the present day, with cartographical representations of Dubrovnik, the Mediterranean and Central Europe particularly well represented. QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97.

08.08 - 10.09 » CROATIA ON THE UNESCO INTANGIBLE CULTURE LIST Ten Croatian themes and customs are listed on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage (ie elements of culture that involve folklore or tradition rather than physical buildings or monuments): they include lacemaking, carnival celebrations, choir singing, St Blaise’s feast-day in Dubrovnik and many more. This exhibition provides a short introduction to them all. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus. hr.

SPECIAL EVENTS 14.06 - 17.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE

Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www. lepetitfestival.com.

22.06 - 10.09 » THE CAVTAT SUMMER

Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first weekend in July. All the events are for free.QCavtat, visit. cavtat-konavle.com.

07.07 - 08.07 » CAVTAT SUMMER CARNIVAL

Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you wanna be in the first week of July. Locals and guests go all out and dress in costume, glitter and glare. Stages big and small are aplenty with live bands, street entertainers, jugglers, performers, and folk and a cappella groups that turn the whole town into a magical haven.QCavtat, visit.cavtatkonavle.com.

What’s going on? facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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What’s On

Midsummer Scene Archives, Photo by Grgo Jelavić

10.07 - 25.08 » 69TH DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL Croatia’s premier arts event of the summer, the Dubrovnik Festival often gets a bad rap for trying to pack too many things into one programme. This year the emphasis is resolutely focused on high art, with a wealth of classical music, ballet and drama that any global festival would be proud of. This year’s offering functions particularly well as a showcase for the best in Croatian theatre, with hit productions from Zagreb’s Croatian National Theatre, Zagreb Youth Theatre (ZKM) and highly acclaimed avant-performance group Badco making the trip down the Adriatic.

The venues are, as usual, unique, with outdoor music and drama performances in old town squares, Lokrum island, Lovrijenac Fortress and Gruž Harbour Warehouse. The full programme can be found on www.dubrovnik-festival.hr; tickets, as usual, should be snapped up as soon as possible.QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.dubrovnik-festival. hr.

17.07 » JUMPING INTO THE NERETVA A “jumping competition” that attracts a large number of viewers is held next to the Lučki most (harbour bridge) in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the young and the old. Special attention is paid to the “craziest jump” category.QMetković, www. tzmetkovic.hr.

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Feast of the Assumption, Trpanj Tourist Board Archives

20.07 - 22.07 » MARCO POLO FEST

Step back in time and celebrate at this festival of song and wine, it was established in honour of Marco Polo who was born on the island. The 3 day event begins with a ‘wine fiesta’, the second evening is dedicated to ‘pop melodies’ whilst the finale is fittingly titled ‘melodies of Marco Polo’. Wine from all over the world is sampled so dig in for some fine wine tasting and fun.QKorčula, www. marcopolofest.hr.

21.07 » THE NIGHT OF OLD OREBIĆ

On this one night each year, the beautiful old town of Orebić turns even older, we’re talking centuries back! Its main promenade sees local residents dressed as captains, sailors, fisherman, blacksmiths and more... They display their old traditions, trades and crafts, whilst old photos of famous town captains grace the strolling walkway for all to see. There will be plenty of local delicacies on offer which though hard to pronounce, are easily eatable to any food lover; padšipanje, hroštule, muštule and more.QOrebić, Pelješac, www.visitorebic-croatia.hr.

27.07 » ROMAN NIGHT

In the village of Vid, near Metković, is the ancient remains of the Roman city of Narona. For one night only, Romans will rampage once again with the staging of market slaves and gladiator fights, see ancient crafts such as coinage, pottery made on potter’s wheel, wooden toys, or even visit a Roman cosmetician or hair sylist.Exotic dancers, fire jugglers and delicious Roman cuisine make the night all the more special.QVid, www.tzmetkovic.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Midsummer Scene Archives, Photo by Grgo Jelavić

08.08 - 11.08 » DAYS OF THE NERETVA PRINCIPALITY

The Neretva area is a valley with a lenghty river and marshes, it has a long tradition of agriculture as it was “the” major source of life. For three days the entire area rises to the occasion of recalling the ways of their “dide i babe”, or grandmas ans grandpas. It prepares locals for the biggest event of the year in the “Boat Marathon” and there is a fair of traditional crafts, rural games, homemade produce, costumed plays and more...QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

11.08 » THE NERETVA BOAT (LAĐA) MARATHON

Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.

QMetković, www.maraton-ladja.hr.

15.08 » THE FEAST OF THE ASSUMPTION CELEBRATIONS

Welcome to one of the biggest church and national holidays in Croatia and trust us, it doesn’t get much bigger than the party to be had in Trpanj! It all starts in the early hours when a traditional mass is held at the Trpanj waterfront, whilst the evening hours are filled with sounds of pop/rock music and live concerts, plus fantastic fireworks, lottery and many other street surprises. QTrpanj, Pelješac, www.tzo-trpanj.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

25.08 - 16.09 » GUNDULIĆ NIGHTS

Named after one of the greats of Croatian literature who just so happens to come from the Dubrovnik area, this delightful cultural event includes concerts of classical and pop music as well as theatre plays, educational workshops, painting exhibitions and so much more. Held in the old part of the town of Trpanj, learn about the Baroque writer Ivan Gundulić and join in on the fun. QTrpanj, Pelješac, www.tzo-trpanj.hr.

01.09 - 02.09 » A GATHERING OF KLAPA ENSEMBLES - ‘NA ME POGLED TVOJ OBRATI’

The angelic voices of Croatian klape are a Dalmatian trademark and this event is a must if you’re in Cavtat at the time.

Held since the year 2000, twelve ensembles sing both new and classical hits in this specific vocal style, often without instruments. Day two is dedicated to the solo concert of some of the guest klapa.QCavtat, visit.cavtat-konavle. com.

07.09 - 29.09 » EPIDAURUS FESTIVAL

Created twelve years ago, and run ever since by the pianist Ivana Marija Vidović, this festival attracts a multitude of classical and jazz musicians. Featuring theatre shows, operas, art exhibits, and a young talent series in an attractive open air venue.QCavtat, Konavle, www. epidaurusfestival.com.

youtube.com/inyourpocket Summer 2018

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What’s On

The World of Sounds Exhibition, Nove-Dec 2018 in Rector’s Palace

THEATRE 20.06 - 04.07 » MIDSUMMER SCENE SHAKESPEARE’S A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM

Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream will be performed in English every night (except June 26) on the battlements of Lovrijenac Fortress. In addition, a handful of Shakey-related drama and music events will be held at the Museum of Modern Art. QK‑3, Lovrijenac Fortress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, www. midsummer-scene.com.

FILM 26.09 - 30.09 » INVISIBLES - SHORT FILM FESTIVAL

Film on the foreshore! The end of the tourist season brings a delight to those visiting Cavtat with this festival dedicated to short film and art works from new forms of media by young Croatian authors. The films will be shown out in the open along the Cavtat promenade for all to see, so become visible at the invisible festival.QCavtat, visit. cavtat-konavle.com.

FOOD & DRINK 14.06 - 13.09 » FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC

If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down to the Orebić waterfront for a culinary delight! Every Thursday from June 14, rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the background makes for enchanting evenings.Qwww. visitorebic-croatia.hr. Every Thursday.

28.06 - 01.07 » KINOOKUS - THE FOOD FILM FESTIVAL

The walled town of Ston is the venue for the ninth edition of Kinookus, a festival that brings film and food together with a busy programme of film screenings, culinary events and after-parties. The main focus of the festival is 16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

on the culture of food – what do we grow, how do we grow it, how do we preserve local traditions, and how can we eat well while preserving the ecology of the planet at the same time. Ston itself is a great location (and not just because of its reputation for bringing together the best of the local wine and seafood) with many of the events taking place in the open air against a backdrop of historic buildings.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr.

06.07 » CIPOLIJADA

Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.

The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

14.07, 04.08 » THE NIGHT OF WINE

You’ve got to know that you’re in the Pelješac peninsula, home to some of the best wines along the Adriatic Sea; and the serene town of Ston annually organises an evenings dedicated to the finest local grape drop on the magic Ston wall. This is an event which not only celebrates the world of wine but where the air is also filled with beautiful sounds of Dalmatian klapa songs, the smell of roasted sardines and oysters, all naturally combined with top quality wines from the famous Pelješac wine region and vineyard.

An unforgettable evening guaranteed!QSton, Pelješac, www.ston.hr.

22.07 » KORČULA WINE FESTIVAL - BLACK ISLAND WHITE WINES

With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine, scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to dabble!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 28.07 - 04.08 » THE 8TH POŠIP DAYS IN ČARA AND SMOKVICA

When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of Smokvica and Čara on Korčula have a well-known tradition in wine growing and wine production dating from ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake in the art of wine tasting.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

12.08 » MAKARUNADA

This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to make makaruni, a particular home-made pasta native to the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the food is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered.

Live outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic Mediterranean atmosphere!QŽrnovo, Korčula, www. visitkorcula.eu.

28.08 - 01.09 » SALT FESTIVAL

It is a little known fact that the ancient town of Ston is also home to Europe’s oldest salt pans which are still active today; therefore it is no wonder that this unique festival is held where it all began. It includes a presentation of traditional local products and a handcrafts fair as well as wine, honey and olive oil tasting. There is traditional music and dancing, and workshops for children to say the least.

QSton, Pelješac, www.ston.hr.

Saturday, from Pomena to Prožura, followed by the third phase on the Sunday, from Prožura to Dubrovnik.Qwww. facebook.com/JK.Orsan.Dubrovnik.

23.09 » STON WALL MARATHON

This unique marathon race takes place in the equally unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very own pace.QSton, www.ston-wall-marathon.com.

29.09 - 07.10 » ROZARIADA - VIGANJ GAMES

For the fifth year running, Viganj and its surroundings become home to this Olympic style event with an emphasis on adrenaline and traditional outdoor sports. Nearby hills and sea winds make the area perfect for all wishing to partake in windsurfing, fishing, indoor soccer, trekking, cycling, table tennis, chess, cards, archery and more. Inspired by the ancient Greeks, why not be crowned with eternal glory. A great cultural and musical programme will coincide!QViganj, Pelješac, www.visitorebic-croatia.hr.

LINĐO ENSEMBLE

SPORT 05.06 - 11.06 » RUN THE ROCKS OF MLJET

For the first time ever, the mountain tracks of the gorgeous island of Mljet become a perfect trail for hiking. The rocks along the entire length of its coastline provide the backdrop for a number of hikers who combine this recreational activity with the breath-taking landscapes and views of one of Croatia’s most beautiful islands, famous for its lush forests and wild nature. QMljet, www.mljet.hr.

21.06 - 25.06 » VIGANJ SLALOM OPEN 2018 – WINDSURFING COMPETITION

Viganj is set between Pelješac and Korčula where the sea channel provides enough wind and waves that has made this a meeting point for wind and kite surfers alike. June is competition month and for all those who take this sport seriously, feel free to partake or attend in what will be a melting pot for many of Europe’s top windsurfers.QVi‑ ganj, Pelješac, www.visitorebic-croatia.hr.

03.08 - 05.08 » THE 38TH SOUTH DALMATIAN REGATTA

Held every year on the first weekend in August, competitors sail from Orebić to Dubrovnik in three stages. Starting at noon, on the Friday, they sail to Korčula, then to Pomena, and on to Mljet. The second stage takes place on the facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Linđo Folk Ensemble Archives

01.05 - 15.10 » THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr/. 21:30 Every Tuesday & Friday.

Summer 2018

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Restaurants CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). A­P­G­T­U­6­W BISTRO TAVULIN With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of traditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have you rushing for the cash machine. The octopus ragout with beans and polenta (150Kn) is something of a signature dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish and slow cooked veal are among the other regular standouts, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 190kn). P­G­X­B­J­W

KOPUN Nestling under gnarled trees near the Jesuit Church Kopun has carved out an enviable reputation as a restaurant that does traditional and contemporary at the same time. They have reinvented dishes like kopun (the roast capon from which the restaurant gets its name) and šporkimakaruli (an old-school Dubrovnik dish featuring tubes of pasta with goulash) alongside a wealth of delicate pastas, risottos and salads. Quality food, smooth service, and the view isn’t bad either.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www. restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimozadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­E­W­i

DUBROVNIK A consistently good place for succulent seafood pasta dishes and quality grilled or baked fish, the Dubrovnik was one of the establishments rewarded with a place on Michelin’s list in 2018. The covered roof terrace is one of the Old Town’s most evocative dining-out locations; there’s a good list of top Croatian wines, and service is very smooth indeed.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 10, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (120-280 kn).

ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 23:30. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W

KAVANA TEATAR Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.

This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 -15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. (35 - 100kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­ 6­W

CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385-) 099 68 52 380/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 14:00 - 24:00. (55 - 155kn). N­P­B­S­V­W

KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurantkomin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­L­6­W

www.inyourpocket.com 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ETHNIC

MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls.

They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 19. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­P­G­T­U­B­ S­J­6­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

TAJ MAHAL Although the name might make you think of India this is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www. tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (90 160kn). A­G­T­B­S­6­W TAKENOKO Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japanese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the ambiance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en/. Open 18:00 - 23:30.

(87 - 400kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W­K

INTERNATIONAL AZUR It’s only been around for a few years but is already one of Dubrovnik’s most talked-about restaurants, a place that you may well have read about before you arrive. The Azur approach is simple; take fresh local ingredients, apply oriental spices and cooking techniques, and bring to table. The results are always full of flavour, and frequently rather magical. Prices are very reasonable by Dubrovnik standards. Thy have a sense of humour too, “Fork It!” being a typical exhortation on the seasonally-changing menu.

Secluded alleyway location and mellow vibe complete the picture.QD‑4, Pobijana 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 06, www.azurvision.com. Open 12:30 - 23:00. (28 - 150kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W LUCIN KANTUN Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lucin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well 20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach which means that you can order several small plates of different things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the approach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley. QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 01:00. (38 - 160kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W PANTARUL Located near a road junction in the residential part of Lapad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experimentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Pantarul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should always reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 140kn). A­P­G­T­S­L­W PEPPERS EATERY Occupying a cute stone house and walled courtyard right opposite Lapad’s new yachting marina, Peppers offers a broad range of local and international fare in a relaxing bar-bistro environment. The list of starters includes the kind of global fare (hummus, bruschettas, chicken satay) that works well as a light lunch; while the mains revolve grilled steak, tuna and lamb choices, alongside the odd novelty such as the duck burger. Desserts are excellent and Peppers also works well as a drinks bar, with British summertime staples like Pimms and lemonade on offer a well as the local tipple.QLapadska obala 20, tel. (+38520) 48 75 78, www.pepperseatery.com/. Open 12:00 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70- 190kn). A­P­B­S­W PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby market;although the accompanying sauces and spices may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00. (70 - 150kn).

A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W­i STARA LOZA One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a recommendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s fine-dining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of European classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), beautifully prepared and presented. The starters involve a few notable adventures in global fusion, and the dessert list is second to none. For a total blow-out, the multicourse tasting menus are well-worth considering. There dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

are great views from the indoor part of the restaurant and the rooftop terrace is quite simply stunning – be sure to reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www. prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (100 - 210 kn).

A­B­J­W­i

from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik. com/. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­J­6­W

TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverne has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From June Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­ G­T­B­6­W

KONOBA JEZUITE With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Jesuit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www.restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). A­B­J­W

KONOBA DALMATINO DUBROVNIK After several years building up a reputation in the alleys south of StradunDalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street.

The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you should try is žrnovskimakaruli, the tubular pasta facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.

QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). A­G­X­T­U­B­S­J­W­K Summer 2018

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Restaurants ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (140 - 175kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ S­J­i

LIGHT BITES BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(14 - 30kn). N­P­G­B­J­W BURGER TIGER This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com/. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (44-85kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­S­J­W

BREAKFAST ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (65 - 120kn). A­B­J­W PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A­P­ G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W­i

www.inyourpocket.com 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

SNOGU STREET WOK BAR The former café just outside Ploče Gate has been subjected to a rather splendid makeover, and is now a street-food joint serving wok-fried fusion dishes. Chose your desired base (rice or pasta) followed by key ingredient (beef, seafood or veggies) and a choice of sauce from curry to sweet-and-sour. “Dubrovnik Mix”, featuring a mixture of squid and shrimp, is the house special. Décor is bright-orange-meets-cool-black, and the location couldn’t be better; a pleasant place to sit if you’re eating in. QE‑1, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 92 365 58 66. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

(76 - 106 kn). A­B­S TUTTO BENE A fast food joint with several branches throughout the city, Tutto Bene goes about things with a bit of class and attention to detail. The tortillas and sandwiches come in a few local-ingredient versions, and there are some out-ofthe-ordinary burgers too: Piggy Black contains Slavonian pork, and there is a lamb version too.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com/.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 85kn). A­J­W

MEDITERRANEAN ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist.

Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad. com/restaurant-2/. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (200 - 250kn).

A­T­B­J­W­i AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Sun 11:00 - 17:00. From June Open 08:00 - 16:00, 19:00 23:00. (120 - 250 kn). A­P­G­X­B­W AQUARIUS Location, location! Aquarius is the perfection location for a restaurant as it is tucked away in a courtyard off the old town walls. It even offers a great view of the cable-car and surrounding hills as you can sit out on the open garden terrace. Food wise, Aquarius has a solid seafood offer dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

which includes various sized platters; they also have pastas, anti-pastas and grilled meals. The assortment of local wines adds to the homely feel of this eatery with attentive staff on hand. QMata Vodopića 4, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, www.hotel-aquarius.net.

BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT Running along the back of Banje beach is a combined restaurant-bar-club with seating set out on decking facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a predominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cocktails; for wavelapped proximity to the sea there is quite simply no equal.

QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00 24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­J­W DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­U­B­W­i facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

GUSTA ME Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric. The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustamedubrovnik.com. Open 08:30 - 23:00. From June Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn). A­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­S­ 6­W KLARISA There are few places in Dubrovnik that have such a grand setting and remain affordable at the same time. With tables spread across the awesome arcaded courtyard of the former Convent of St Claire, Klarisa is well suited to a large group meal or an intimate dinner for two. The menu is a broad-based affair that runs from pizzas to fillet steaks, so it’s quite safe to bring a family here and find at least something that everyone wants. Traditional Dubrovnik desserts like Rožata and Orange and Almond Cake are well worth sticking around for. QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 220kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­ B­I­E­J­6­W Summer 2018

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Restaurants LACROMA On old wooden shack dating back to the Austro-Hungarian period was restored to create this sleek,design-conscious restaurant that looks out on the lush greenery of Lokrum, the nature-reserve island just south of the city. Sea bass, tuna steak and some excellent steaks are the main stars of the menu the Croatia-wide wine list will take quite some getting through. QLokrum island, tel. (+385-) 098 345 085. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (100 - 200kn). A­B­W MARIANNO Set back from the Lapad seafront, there’s something quietly sleek and modern about Marianno that comes as a welcome change from some of the more themed restaurants elsewhere. The contemporary-design interior with its neat white tables and bright orange chairs is offset by a thoroughly traditional menu, with Dalmatian seafood backed up by a solid selection of local wines. One of the few places where you can get soparnik (a sort of Dalmatian tortilla with blitva and garlic) as a starter. QG‑2, Mata Vodopića 2a, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 33, www.restaurantmarianno. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (120-220 kn). A­P­B­W NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00.

From June Open 08:00 - 24:00. (510 - 900kn). A­P­ G­X­B­J­W ORKA MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE Lapad’sharbour-facing shore is enjoying something of a boom thanks to the construction of the new marina, and Orka is another fine excuse to head out that way. Seafood and pasta dishes are served in an elegant first-floor dining room (think bare stone walls, wooden beams, rack upon rack of wine and a fish tank), and there’s a secluded outdoor terrace at the back. Fresh fish and seafood stews are the standouts; everything is neatly presented and the desserts are a knock-out.QH‑2, Lapadska obala 11, tel. (+385-) 099 690 33 34, www.orka-restaurant.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. (180 - 290kn). A­P­B­W­i PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering absolutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restaurant that maintains high standards of food and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reservation. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper 24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (70 250kn). A­P­G­X­B­W POSAT Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat has been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for decades – although it is in recent years that it has been elevated to the fine dining league. The place prides itself on fresh fish, crabs and prawns; this is one place where it might be worth splashing out on the grilled fresh catch.

Diners are rewarded with magnificent views of Dubrovnik’s walls, perfect for an evening of relaxed culinary indulgence.QK‑3, Uz posat 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94, www.posat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (170 270kn). A­P­G­B­J RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 83 68, www.restauranthorizont.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (150 - 200kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­W SALVATORE This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.

And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed your soul.QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.

Open 08:00 - 19:30. From August Open 08:00 - 18:30.

SEGRETO PASTA&GRILL Just off the Stradun in one of those intimate alleyways that tourists often miss, the aptly-named Segreto offers a resolutely traditional Italian menu revolving around fresh pasta in all shapes and sizes. It also excels in the grilled steak line and wraps things up with some fine desserts.

QK‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 92, www. segretodubrovnik.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30. (115 200kn). A­P­B­J­W SESAME Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. Once you enter, the décor takes you on a journey of this grand city whilst the culinary scents begin to override your visual senses. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main! QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60-200 kn). A­P­T­B­S­J­6­W TRATTORIA CAPRICCIO Situated at the end of a blind alley right beside the entrance to the Aquarium, Capriccio takes its Italian cuisine very seriously, offering a compact traditional menu of pasta, seafood and lamb chops. They also do spicy frogand-eel stew (a speciality of the nearby Neretva Delta) if you pop in and order it a day in advance. They take great care over their wine list, and the outdoor alleyway seating is delightful if you can get a table.QK‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 10, tel. (+385-) 091 612 41 16. Open 16:00 - 24:00.

(140 - 220kn). A­P­T­B­W VAPOR For classy Mediterranean food in a suave but soothing environment there are few better places than Vapor, just below the lobby area of the Bellevue Hotel. It commands superb views of neighbouring cliffs and the open sea – and if you have your heart set on one of the outside tables, be sure to make a reservation. The menu applies just the right amount of creativity to classic local ingredients, with delifacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

cate risottos, white fish in delectable sauces, and exquisite desserts among the many highlights. Service is as smooth and courteous as you would expect.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­E­L­W­i

MEET THE MEAT DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, www.restaurantdomino-dubrovnik. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­U­ B­J­6­W PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Summer 2018

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Restaurants PIZZA&PASTA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­S­W Taj Mahal Restaurant Archives

MEA CULPA Long-standing old-town pizzeria that has kept its standards high, with tables filling a broad alley that runs alongside an open-air cinema. Mea Culpa’s thin-crust pies come in a range of traditional flavours as well as modern improvisations – the kebab pizza might appeal to some, while the Mea Culpa pizza goes for lashings of Gorgonzola cheese. There is also the (nowadays inevitable) Nutella pizza, and a vegetarian lasagne for those who need to give the meat a rest. QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com/. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

(70 - 210kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City.

Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 110kn). A­P­G­X­T­ U­B­S­V­L­6­W PASTA LAB Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00.

(38-75 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W

Sesame Restaurant Archives Vila Ruža Old City Bistro Archives

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr/. Open 09:30 - 24:00. (32 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­V­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants TRATTORIA Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset Beach complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building houses a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serving traditional-style pizzas. They also do bruschettas, salads, pastas and burgers, plus inexpensive lunchtime specials in the shoulder season. There’s an adjoining café-patisserie with some rather fine cakes. Freshly-squeezed juice and Korlat aged brandies add class to the drinks list. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sunsetbeachdubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (60 - 120kn). A­P­T­U­B­S­L­W

Kopun Restaurant Archives

SEAFOOD BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (35 - 69kn).

A­P­G­T­S­J­W FISH RESTAURANT PROTO Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­B­W KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). A­B­J 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LEVANAT This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­W ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurantorsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W­i OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:00 23:00. (28 - 135kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W VILLA RUŽA OLD CITY BISTRO When quality overrides quantity, Villa Ruža Old City Bistro sets the benchmark in regards to Dalmatian cuisine with owner chef Ruđer Jelavić insisting on using fresh local produce from fishermen and neighbouring gardens. The stunning terrace of the restaurant and the local cuisine prepped with a modern touch make this bistro well worth a visit.QD‑4, Ilije Sarake 1, tel. (+385-) 098 44 33 82, www.villa-ruza.com. Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

(140 - 260kn). A­X­T­B­J­W­K

VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (58 - 108kn). A­G­X­B­S­J­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Out of town CAVTAT BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:30 - 22:30. (190 390kn). A­T­B­L LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

A­P­G­U­B­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.

Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­6­W

KONAVLE KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:30.

(70 - 160kn). A­T­B­L­6­W

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Restaurants NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com/. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 110kn). A­G­X­B­L­W

KORČULA ADIO MARE Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn).

A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12. Open 18:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 180kn). A­G­X­U­B­6­W

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Read more reviews online: dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

LASTOVO TRITON A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 07:00 24:00. (60 - 200kn). N­G­X­B­W­i

LOPUD OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront.

The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www. obalalopud.com. May - October Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(150 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­B­W

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

MLINI KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner – a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, www.vivado.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­G­X­B­L­6­W

PELJEŠAC D’ORO BAR&GRILL Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies Mediterranean food with its local offer. One can expect fresh seafood, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with olives, prosciutto, cheese etc. The beers and wines are refreshingly chilled, and probably best of all is the location; a covered terrace right on the beachfront overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a place to chill and be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 85 25 85/ (+385-) 098 32 74 04. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (90-160kn).

A­B­W

STON VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vilakoruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). A­P­G­ X­U­B­L­J­W

ZATON ANKORA The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, www. restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 150kn). A­X­B­W ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

A­G­X­B­L­6­W Summer 2018

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Local Flavour

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

LOCAL DISHES Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

PELJEŠAC WINES Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo).

In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond.

Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production.

Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies.

Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste.

Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Local Flavour

exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown.

An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo.

Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.

More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day.

With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes COFFEE BIKER’S CAFE This neighbourhood café on a residential street above Ploče Gate is one of the few cafes in the area – and as such is a real lifesaver if you happen to be staying in this part of town. It caters to a local coffee-during-the-day-and-thenmaybe-a-beer-later crowd, prices are normal, and the vibe is totally different to that you will find in the tourist-patronized cafes in and around the Old Town. Bikes provide the theme and bikers will be greeted with open arms – but you certainly don’t have to be one to fit in. QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 01:00. N­P­X­B­W CAFÉ FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www. cafefestival.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. From October Open 08:00 - 23:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W CAVE BAR MORE This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A­W CELE Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun, within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result.

It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas, burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu if you’re hungry. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. (60 130kn). A­B­S­J­W­ COGITO COFFEE SHOP In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge. Cold coffee and fresh fruit juice also served. Q ​​​​​​​ D‑4, Stajeva 5, www. cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. A LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G­X­B­6­W SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open 08:00 - 01:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­J­6­W­i

CAKES ARIJA Situated right by the playground and exercise park opposite Gruž harbour, this friendly family destination decked out in pinks and sky blues is one of your best bets for made-on-the-premises cakes and sweets. The house speciality Arija torte is a deliciously creamy affair with light sponge base, although there’s plenty more to choose from, with carrot cakes, cream slices and muffins beckoning you seductively from behind the glass of the counter display. With a scattering of high stools, it’s a good place for eat-in cake and coffee.QH‑2, Nikole Tesle 9, tel. (+385 - )095 557 7916.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18 - 26kn).

A­P­S­W PASTRY & COCKTAIL BAR SLATKI KANTUN Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding bow, SlatkiKantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, although it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium. With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sunset glinting off the waves.QF‑2, Nike i Meda Pucića, 13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A­C PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A­P­ G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W­i Summer 2018

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Nightlife

Banje Beach Night club Archives

BARS ART CAFFE Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. G­X­B­W BUŽA What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions. X­B BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­X­U­B­E­J­6­W CASABLANCA BAR One of several bars squeezed together on this old-town stepped street, Casablanca is the one that makes most of an effort, backing up a rather fine selection of drinks, 36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

shots and cocktails with a pumping collection of DJdriven tunes. As the sister-bar of the Revelin nightclub it’s the warm-up venue of choice for the city’s clubbers, and generates a sufficient party atmosphere of its own for those who just don’t have the energy to budge.QC‑2, Ul. Zamanjina 7, tel. (+385-) 098 533 531. Open 20:00 02:00. J GLAM BEER THERAPY Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00 02:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W MIRAGE One of several bars located on the café table-filled square just behind the cathedral, Mirage is the kind of place that looks plain and uneventful from first glance but actually has bags of character. This is the one place on the square that is open all year round and, unsurprisingly, it is here that the locals come for coffee and a natter in preference to the touristed places elsewhere. Of all the rough-edgedbut-loveable café-bars that used to fill the town centre, this is one of the last to remain unchanged. And for that reason alone, it deserves to be cherished.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-) 091 400 90 78. Open 08:00 02:00. A­P­X­B­J­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09. Open 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­B­ E­W ROCK CAFFE EXIT This legendary old-town bar draws loyal locals throughout the winter and all-sorts in summer. It consists of a long first-floor room and doesn’t have any outside terrace, giving it the intimate but smoky feel of a real big-city bar.

The walls are covered with album covers and pop-star photos, while Rock with a capital R (mostly heavy rather than indy) blasts out of the speakers. Refresh yourself with Pan pivo on tap and a few craft beers in the fridge.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­E­J­W THE BAR BY AZUR A new venture from the team that run the Azur restaurant, this roomy (at least by Dubrovnik Old-Town standards) bar on two levels features cool matt-black stylings and comfy chairs in pop-art colours. Creative cocktails are Azur’s strongpoint; there’s also a big choice of gins, and a respectable range of craft brews – including tasty sipping beers from Zagreb’s Garden and Zmajsko stables.QK‑3, Kunićeva 5, tel. (+385-20) 45 44 77, www.azurvision. com. Open 16:00 - 02:00. G­J

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CLUBS BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.

Open 22:00 - 04:00 during peak season, otherwise check their Facebook page. A­P­B­W CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Rev‑ elin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin.com.

Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. From May 25 Open 23:00 - 06:00. A­P­W LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.

For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

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Nightlife LOUNGE BARS CULTO Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića 39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00 , Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A­P­X­6­W

PUBS DUBROVNIK BEER COMPANY TAP ROOM Newly opened in spring 2018, the Dubrovnik Beer Company’s tap room occupies the front end of the industrial unit where they actually brew the beer, but still manages to feel like a convivial and welcoming bar. Their own excellent beers (including lager-like Maestral, the Pale Ale-ishFortunal and Grego stout) are all available on tap, along with guest beers from other independent brewers.

It’s well off the tourist beaten path and well worth the trip. QObala Pape Ivana Pavla II 15, tel. (+385-) 095 901 4054, www.dubrovackapivovara.hr/. Open 19:00 01:00, Closed Sat, Sun. GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W IRISH PUB KARAKA Located a stone’s throw from the Stradunbut tucked into an intimate alley, this alien presence in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish term Craic;the name couldn’t have been better chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com.

Open 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W PUB CRAWL Experience a night out with the help of a local guide and in the company of fellow pub crawlers. Buy a ticket and at the first bar drink all you like for 100 minutes! The next party bar offers a free welcome drink; then it’s on to a club where you party ‘til morning.QB‑2, Vrata od Pila, tel. (+385-) 091 567 46 56, www.pubcrawldubrovnik.com.

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

CLUBBING 22.06. - Tom Hades @ Lazareti Club 06.07. - Mahmut Orhan @ Revelin Club 27.07. - Andrey Puskharev @ Lazareti Club 13.08. - Red Foo @ Revelin Club 25.08. - Matt Sassari @ Lazareti Club 07.09. - Claptone @ Revelin Club 22.09. - Frank Kvitta @ Lazareti Club

WINE BARS D’VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. Breakfast is served 8:00 - 12:00.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, www.dvino.net. Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­G­B­J­W­i LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­X­ B­J­6­W MATUŠKO This local family is known for producing some of the finest wines from Potomje, a village located in the Pelješac region. Their wine bar, located in the Old City is a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass of awardwinning Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are currently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www. matusko-vina.hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­T­ B­E­J­6­W RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

Photo by Boris Kačan

REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket.

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LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 31 17 38/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further informa‑ tion. A return ticket costs 150kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 25kn.

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque builddubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. No admission.

THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.

The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional perforSummer 2018

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Sightseeing mances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30.

Admission 150/50 kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15 kn.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr.

Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed till June 7th due to renova‑ tion. Unified museum ticket (see p. 48). J

GALLERIES OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine houses – which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑ sion free.

THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with a peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s premier modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several mediums and artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel. (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com.

THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see p. 48).

THE PULITIKA STUDIO As you stroll around the Old Town make sure to visit this studio located in the very City walls. The former private art studio owned by one of Croatia’s most famous contemporary artists, Đuro Pulitika, has been converted into an exhibition space and is one of three homes to the city’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMa). It houses a plethora of artworks dedicated to this grand city and its citizens spanning centuries!QE‑3, St.John Fortress, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 04, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon. THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here.

It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Admission 25kn.

WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

LANDMARKS DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna.

The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com/index. php?action=akvarij_dubrovnik&lan=hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. June and September Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 60/20 kn.

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Sightseeing you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. May Open 09:00 - 21:00.

From June Open 09:00 -24:00. Round-trip ticket 140/85 kn. From May round-trip ticket 150/85 kn.

GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. parkorsula.du-hr.net.

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.

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Sightseeing UNIFIED MUSEUM TICKET Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu‑ seum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archae‑ ological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified museum ticket (see the box above).

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified mu‑ seum ticket (see the box above).

HOMELAND WAR MUSEUM The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.

QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From September Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn. Chil‑ dren under 12 free.

What’s going on? facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket 48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see the box above).

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART DUBROVNIK (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. momad.hr/. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.Unified museum ticket (see the box above).

THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzejmarindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00.

Unified museum ticket (see the box above). J THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 50kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Marin Držić Uncle Maroje? Pomet? Laura the courtesan? Ugo the Kraut?

You’re probably not familiar with these rumbustious, largerthan-life characters from the Croatian stage. But to the average Dubrovnik schoolchild they are just as well-known as Falstaff, Puck, Miranda or Sir Toby Belch might be to their English-speaking counterparts.

These Croatian characters are all the fictional creations of Marin Držić (1508-1567), the Dubrovnik playwright who was in many ways the Croatian predecessor of the more globally-recognized William Shakespeare. Držić has always been pretty impenetrable to non-Croatian speakers, a situation that may well be rectified with the appearance of a new English version of Držić’s best known play Dundo Maroje (“Uncle Maroye” in Filip Krenus’s excellent new translation), published to celebrate the 450th anniversary of Držić’s death by the House of Marin Držić in Dubrovnik.

Like Shakespeare, Držić was a versatile dramatist who wrote comedies, tragedies and fantasy plays – although large chunks of his work have been lost and it’s the comic side of is oeuvre that is best remembered. Written in 1551, Dundo Maroje is one of the most complete examples of his work to survive. Its hero, Dubrovnik merchant Dundo Maroje, sends his son Maro to Italy with 5000 ducats in order to conduct a business deal; young Maro inevitably spends all the money on booze and women. Dundo Maroje travels to Italy to seek him out, and after being initially cold-shouldered, conspires to get Maro’s filial loyalty back again. Appearing to manipulate events behind the scenes is Pomet, a mercurial manservant who is clearly a personification of Držić himself.

We don’t actually know the facts of Držić’s biography in great detail, but it contains enough suggestions of espionage and political conspiracy to feed endless speculation.

The son of once-noble parents who had fallen on hard times, Držić was ordained as a priest, played the organ with distinction, and studied in Siena, where he took part in theatrical entertainments. He entered the service of the Austrian Count Rogendorf, an ambiguous personality who travelled a great deal and for a long period lived in Constantinople – Rogendorf was an agent of either the Austrian government or the Ottomans, and quite possibly a doubleagent serving both. At any rate Držić was witness to the complex world of diplomats and spies, experience which came in useful when he started writing dramas.

Back in Dubrovnik, Držić’s first play Pomet was performed in 1548 but is now lost. Even 1551’s Dundo Maroje is incomplete, as bits of the ending appear to be missing.

Držić’s plays were usually performed in the open air, either in public spaces such as the square in front of the Rector’s Palace, or in the courtyards of aristocratic houses. Performances took place on public holidays or at aristocratic parties; sometimes they formed part of the entertainment at wedding receptions.

Rather like William Shakespeare in the English language, Držić brought modern theatrical techniques of plotting and suspense to the hitherto rather knockabout comedies of the day, transforming Croatian drama into a subtle vehicle not just for entertainment but also social satire and sly facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Marin Držić Museum, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

commentary on the playwright’s own life and times. Držić used the everyday language of the period in order to give authenticity to his characters and bring them closer to the public.

Indeed Držić was a well-known critic of the Dubrovnik Republic, an oligarchy controlled by a web of leading families. He spent the last years of his life as an exile in Venice, where he wrote a famous sequence of seditious letters to the Medici family of Florence, requesting their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik aristocracy.

Of course you should really try and see Držić on stage in order to fully appreciate what he was trying to achieve and how he fits in, globally, with the great writers of the Renaissance. Sadly there are few opportunities to do this; unlike Shakespeare, Držić does not feature all that regularly in the repertoire of modern-day Croatian theatres, and there is very little in the way of TV or film adaptations that would serve as a useful way in to his oeuvre. In 2006 veteran director Veljko Bulajić made the film Libertas, dealing with Držić’s troubled relationship with his native city, but there is not (as far as we know) an English version.

One of the most successful recent attempts to wrestle with the Držić heritage is local writer-director Hrvoje Ivanković’s Victory over the Enemies, a postmodern meld of original Držić fragments and contemporary drama that was premiered at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival in 2017. It will be reprised at this year’s festival, when it will be performed in the courtyard of the art school with English surtitles.

You can also connect with Držić by visiting the House of Marin Držić at Široka 7 (B-3), where there’s a small display devoted to his life and work. And don’t forget the statue of Držić that sits scribbling away outside the Gradska kavana (D-3), its nose rubbed to a shine by people stroking it for good luck.

Above all Držić reminds us how important Dubrovnik was in the development of Croatian literature from the Renaissance onwards, an urban incubator for theatre and poetry that was equal in stature to the literary production of Western Europe. English-language translations have always been lacking, however; a situation that “Uncle Maroye” looks set to put right.

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FERRY LINES FERRY: SPLIT - HVAR- PRIGRADICA (KORČULA) - KORČULA FERRY: SPLIT - HVAR - VELA LUKA (KORČULA) - UBLI (LASTOVO) FAST LINE: SPLIT - VELA LUKA - UBLI FERRY: OREBIĆ (PELJEŠAC) - DOMINČE (KORČULA) FERRY: PLOČE - TRPANJ (PELJEŠAC) FERRY: PRAPRATNO - SOBRA (MLJET) FERRY: DUBROVNIK - SUĐURAĐ (ŠIPAN) FAST LINE: DUBROVNIK - LUKA ŠIPANSKA - SOBRA - POLAČE - KORČULA - LASTOVO REGULAR LINE: DUBROVNIK - KOLOČEP - LOPUD FERRY: DUBROVNIK - BARI (IT) FAST LINE: DUBROVNIK - MLJET - KORČULA - HVAR - BRAČ - SPLIT

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C̆ILIPI FERRY LINES FAST SHIP LINES REGULAR SHIP LINES

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Mljet, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Islands KORČULA K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone throw from the main square and you’ll be bedazzled by the amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures.

The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the mainsquare and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the 52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood and most of which were brought across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And that’s just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all.

As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town.

Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings KORČULA CITY MUSEUM Q20260, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, www.gmkorcula.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 20/8 kn.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

LASTOVO Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@npmljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.

KAŠĆEL This ancient fort, built by the Dubrovnik government, is located on the hill overlooking the town Lastovo. The original fort contained a well, dwellings and even a small chapel. Destroyed by the revolution on Lastovo, it was rebuilt by the French when they occupied the island. Interestingly, today it is a meteorological station!QLastovo Island.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Konavle Tourist Board Archives

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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North of Dubrovnik NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 11 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnectdubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

ing freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. BAĆINA LAKES (BAĆINSKA JEZERA) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče.

METKOVIĆ NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum.

The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats.

One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr/. Open 09:00 - 16.00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+38520) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it.

Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Summer 2018

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Dubrovnik Surroundings STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun. ST ELIAS (SV. ILIJA) MOUNTAIN St. Elias, the highest peak on the Pelješac peninsula, offers one of the most beautiful views of the Croatian mountains and Adriatic Sea. Legend has it that the hill on which it’s located was called Perunovo brdo (Perun’s mountain), after Perun, the Slavic god of thunder. The peak is marked by a pile of stones and a small wooden cross.QOrebić, Pelješac.

STON SALTWORKS (SOLANA STON) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston.

Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 15kn. Guided tours 22.5 kn per person.

THE WALLS OF STON In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around

AGRITOURISM AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).

QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, www.laptalo-agro.hr.

Open by prior arrangement. N­P­I­L­W­K KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVIĆ FAMILY Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat.

If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon. A­P­B­L­6­W 56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/(+38520) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

SLANO Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers.

The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

SLANO TOURIST BOARD QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

ARBORETUM TRSTENO QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr/en/about_academy/units/the_ trsteno_arboretum. Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings South of Dubrovnik CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

KONAVLE The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages).

BUKOVAC HOUSE (KUĆA BUKOVAC) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the bestloved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www. kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Admission 30kn.

MILLS ON THE RIVER LJUTA The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of

If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit.cavtatkonavle.com. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Konavle Tourist Board Archives

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Dubrovnik Surroundings the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank.

The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKo‑ navle.

SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00 15:00. From June Open 09:00 - 19:00. Tickets 70/30 kn.

THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI RAČIĆ) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat. Open 10:00 17:00, Closed Sun. Admission 20kn.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Closed Sun. From June Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments! facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Leisure Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

ADRENALINE ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).

QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 099 445 56 95, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, biking and hiking in Konavle. More information on contacts below.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 182 89 95, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

BLUE PLANET Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www. blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

BUNGEE JUMPING Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for lifelong memories. The lads on 53m high Franjo Tuđman Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.

QG‑1, Franjo Tuđman Bridge, tel. +385 91 111 55 44, www.bungee-jumping-dubrovnik.com/. From June Open 11:00 - 20:00. 600kn.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They offer ATV Quad Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle mainland, for the price of 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari 60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Leisure and 650kn horseback riding (including the transport from/ to Kojan Koral), as well as segway off road on the island of Lokrum.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

EXCURSIONS DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES A top tour operator company offering an assortment of great escapes from one day and on as they promote active, eco and adventure tourism. Choose from country wine tours, cycling tours, island hopping on a bike, excursions, hiking and multi-sport tours just to name a few.

Top notch tour guides combine history and humour fused with food and beverages in ready-made packages that will leave you with lasting memories of Dubrovnik and its natural surroundings.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS Visiting 3 islands is the ideal way to escape the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik and in getting to know the charm of the Elaphite islands all in one day. The tour is ideal for families, larger groups, and for individuals who are happy to meet new people and customs. QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) 098 178 71 77, www. dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. Open by prior arrange‑ ment.

GREEN SEA SAFARI

Green Sea Safari Archives

Doing good has its rewards, and this non-profit association has one key mission and that is to clean the beaches, islands and bays of the Adriatic Sea and its underwater world from plastic, bottles and similar waste. Starting with Dubrovnik, the project depends solely on the help of its members and donations. So be active, tours involve cleaning a specific bay for an hour and then the rest of the day is action packed with snorkelling in caves, exploring the islands and beach bars.

One boat can carry up to 12 persons per day! Starting June 15.Qgreenseasafari.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Leisure DUBROVNIK BOATS Seeking a trip or tour, but do not wish to be held up by other tourists or deadlines? Look no further, for private or specifically prepared adventures or trips that meet your every standard and expectation, with choice of fullfeatured transport. QBartola Kašića 13, tel. (+385-) 098 75 78 90, www.dubrovnikboats.com. Open by prior ar‑ rangement.

DUBROVNIK SAILING Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure to recreational all down to professional sports sailing.

Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches, caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be working overtime and all you need to do is let the skipper know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. dubrovnik-sailing.com.

SWIMING In the city itself, the town beach is Banje, just outside the Ploče gate of the city walls. The expanse of white pebbles has a super view of the Old Town and is suitable for children and non-swimmers. Or you could creep through the Buža hole in the southern city walls and take a dive off the rocks there - the crystalline water is truly tempting.

You could take a taxi boat from the Old Town’s harbour to Lokrum island (50kn return), where the beaches are immersed in lush greenery, plus there’s a naturist beach and shallow saltwater lake.

Just west of town is the Danče promontory, a rocky beach a little more exposed to the open sea, offering refreshing waves. Further east is the beach below Hotel Bellevue - a spectacular stretch of pebble and shingle backed by cliffs.

About 15min walk east of town is the Sveti Jakov beach, under the abbey of the same name. The pebble and shingle beach offers great views of the city and of Lokrum. You can get here by taking bus no. 5 to the end of the line. You need have no fear as to the quality of the water near the Old Town; the water quality is constantly monitored and is excellent. If, however, you would like to get away from the centre, you can head for the Lapad peninsula. The deep Lapad bay is ringed with beaches, all different. Uvala Lapad is sandy, while others are pebbly, rocky or concrete. There are plenty of facilities such as showers, toilets, watersports and refreshments.

On the side of the Babin kuk (“grandmother’s hip”) peninsula, the Copacabana beach has water slides and other fun stuff. If you don’t fancy taking the coast path and finding your own personal piece of heaven, you could always hire a pedalo and take the scenic route…

Another option is to take a ferry and take a day trip to Koločep or Lopud islands, both of which have fine sandy beaches and opportunities to explore.

Or, head south of the city to the resorts of Župa Dubrovačka, which have some of the most attractive white pebble beaches in the country (take bus no. 10 or 16).

Buggy Safari Dubrovnik Archives

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Shopping

ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

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ART GALLERIES AR BASTION A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 08:00 - 19:30. A ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings

by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired by episodes and stories from the history of the republic.

QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73, www.jadranka-munitic.com/. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. N KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

LUNA+SOL ART GALLERY Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contemporary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewellery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale.

In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that they also organise transport and delivery worldwide.

QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www. lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.

Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 24:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

CHIC & CHEERFUL BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

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Shopping CVIJET BY KIKE For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00, Closed Sun. A LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA Set in a rather fabulously renovated garage directly above the Ploče Gate, Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers (except for the drinking horns made by Slovenia’s ingeniously odd Goat Story), and covers pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. Even the mugs, fridge magnets and postcards are totally different from anything you will find elsewhere. The T-shirts made by the Kawa team or commissioned from local artists are totally unique, and will be treasured as highly wearable artefacts rather than dutifully-purchased souvenirs. The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries. QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 01 45. Open 12:00 - 20:00. From June Open 10:00 - 20:00.

TURQWISE Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are designed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as well as graphic design modern art posters and photos, which represent the sea.QB‑2, Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.turqwise.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. J

DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligoratrgovina-dubrovnik. Open: 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 14:00. A­G­B KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. June Open 08:00 - 22:00. From July Open 08:00 - 24:00. A ŠKAR WINERY This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. The small familyrun business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced.

The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

TAJ BUTCHERAJ MEAT BOUTIQUE Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalma‑ tinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

FASHION ART GO’DEN A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand.

Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Sun Gardens Dubrovnik, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel, Valamar Dubrovnik President, Kompas and Sheraton.QK‑3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 098 42 75 96, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

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Shopping

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Shopping gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W

BORZA GRUPA The Dubrovnik established Borza Grupa Ltd. operates 11 outlets and it is known as one of the largest fashion retailers in Croatia with a large portfolio of world-known brands such as Michael Kors, Furla, Armani Jeans, Guess, Tosca Blu, Bracciallini, Cesare Paciotti etc.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 23 70, www.borzagrupa.hr. Open 09:00 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. A­J CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Open 09:00 - 22:00. From October Open 09:00 - 20:00.

A MARIA If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, www.mariastore. hr. Closed Sun, Open 10:00 - 17:00. From July 10 Open 10:00 - 24:00. A MODNI KANTUN A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD‑2, Zlatar‑ ska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A XD XENIA DESIGN Designer who makes custom clothing suited to your size and personality.QG‑4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17/ (+385-20) 33 11 75, www.xenia-design.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A­G

SOUVENIRS BABOON A traditional craft store in Dubrovnik where you can find handmade jewellery, paper flowers and various original 66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

DEŠA PRO Founded in 2012 by the ‘DEŠA Association’, this is about a noble cause aimed at employing women 40 or over, women with disabilities and other socially excluded people through the production and sale of quality and innovative textiles and gastro products inspired by Croatian heritage. See their products which are hand-made, unique, whether woven, embroidered, painted or knitted and bear the identity of the Dubrovnik City, and our Mediterranean climate.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. From June Open 09:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. A DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Ko‑ navle.

MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj, handmade lace from Lepoglava, ceramics and vases, silk scarfs, natural cosmetics and all sorts of delicatessens like truffles, olive oil or local honey.QB/C‑2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, www. medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A MUSEUM SHOP One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/ muzejska-prodavaonica/. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W PALMA Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

TILDA Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD‑2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From June Open 10:00 - 21:00.

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Dubrovnik Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 1 Easter April 2 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 31 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING IN DUBROVNIK So you have finally reached our beautiful city, having safely placed your two feet on Croatian soil rest assured as we have all the necessary information on transport and arrival points to help you get around and find your way.

BY BOAT There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00.

Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

During summer, June 9 - September 18 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet April 24 - October 28. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 80 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

BY BUS The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.autobusni-kolodvor-dubrovnik.com/en/.

Open 05:30 - 22:30.

BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

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Arrival & Getting Around Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

BY PLANE The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (40 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no.

11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the town centre (40 kn one way), but only run a few times a day. Airport Shuttle buses now operate from Dubrovnik Airport to Korčula Island, Pelješac and Mljet – includes Vela Luka, Brna, Korčula Town, Lumbarda, Orebić, Trpanj, and Prapratno (for ferry to Mljet). The bus runs daily from 30.04 to 30.09.2018 with connections several times a day. To book your place on the shuttle bus (advance booking only), simply get in touch with the korkyra.info travel agency. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250 kn.

DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

CAR RENTAL AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.

Open 07:00 - 21:00. A HERTZ Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-) 098 42 21 92/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-acar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00.

LAPAD QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun, June and September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. May Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Fri. June and September Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. July, August Open 08:00 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. June and Sep‑ tember Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. June and September Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. From May 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu, Sat Open 14:00 - 20:00. June Open 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

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Arrival & Getting Around TAXI There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

PLAVI TAXI DUBROVNIK Order via In Taxi App.Qtel. (+385-20) 33 22 22, www. facebook.com/PlaviTaxiDubrovnik/.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

UNI RENT Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 – 75kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en/.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. 30kn daily ticket is available only at Libertas sales points and is valid 24 hours after activation. Out-oftown routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr LIBERTAS QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

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RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK Qtel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik. com.

TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK Qtel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu.

TOWED AWAY If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

TRANSFERS TAXI AND TRANSPORTATION SERVICE DUBROVNIK Dubrovnik Airport Taxi reliable, safe and on time. Transfers from 15€, a complete chauffeur service suitable for any size.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 091 332 20 22, www.dubrovnikairporttaxi.com. Advance notice re‑ quired if paying by credit card. A

TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A KORKYRA QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. September Open 09:00 - 22:00. A VIVADO Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Street register

www.inyourpocket.com A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius Restaurant Levanat

Merit Cas

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City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

sino

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Dubravka

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Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock CafĂŠ

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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