Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No. 27 - Spring 2019

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Dubrovnik Spring 2019

Spring is in the Air Explore Dubrovnik’s Green Surroundings N°27 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Orlando’s Year

The Stone Knight’s 600th Birthday

- no need to book, just show up 10 min before departure - tickets available on the spot / 5% discount on online bookings: www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com SCHEDULE 2019 13:30 A STORY ABOUT THE WAR 09:30 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 150+50* KN / 2 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 10:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31

15:00 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31

10:20 DUBROVNIK ENTDECKER TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31

16:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31

10:30 DESCUBRIR-DUBROVNIK RECORRIDO A PIE 90 KN / 1 hour / April 1 to Oct 31

16:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31

11:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / year round

17:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / June 1 to Sept 30

11:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Sep 30

17:30 CITY WALLS & DUBROVNIK 200+200** KN / 2.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31

12:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / year round

17:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Sep 1 to Oct 31

12:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Oct 31

18:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sept 30

13:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sep 30

18:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31

* Entrance fee is 50 kn but if you already have a City Walls ticket or a Dubrovnik Card you can use it for free entrance ** Price for the City Walls entrance is an additional 200 KN. The entrance is free with Dubrovnik Card. *** All tours are in English apart from those indicated above with flags

MEETING POINT

Meeting Point for all tours is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain (located within the City Walls).

LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Doživljaj Mediterana d.o.o., Bartola Kašića 5, 20236 Mokošica, OIB 68762372382, IC: HR-AB-20-090011580 tel: +385 20 436 846, mob: +385 95 744 74 74, sales@dubrovnik-walking-tours.com, www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Dubrovnik Surroundings

What’s On 7 You won’t be bored

Orlando’s Year

13

14

Coffee & Cakes 28 What a plesure

Check out the highlights

Leisure

52

Shopping

54

Dubrovnik Basics

58

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Arrival & Getting Around

59

Lost? Help is at hand 29

Music to your ears

Sightseeing

42

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Spicing things up

Nightlife

Dubrovnik County Map

Recreational pleasure

The stone knight’s 600th birthday

Restaurants

42

The top gateways

34

Maps & Street Register Street Register City Map City Centre Map

63 64 66

The Marin Držić Theater, named after the most important Dubrovnik playwright, keeps the spring season alive with its premiers and guest performances from other Croatian cities. As they say, ‘open the curtains and let the show begin.’

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Spring 2019

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Foreword It’s arguably in spring that Dubrovnik’s charms are at their seductive best. The cityis sufficiently busy with tourists for everything to be up and running; all those cool bars and restaurants that take a well-deserved winter break tend to open their doors again by April, and are well into their stride come May.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja

The streets are yet to be swamped by the summer crowds, however, allowing the locals the time and space to display that not-rushed-off-their-feet sense of hospitality and spontaneity that makes the Croatian coast that little bit more welcoming than some other places in the Med. The weather is usually reliable enough for al-fresco dining,and you probably won’t be fighting fellow tourists for a table in quite the way you might be later in July or August.

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research & Community Manager Katarina Buljan Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac

Indeed it’s in the gloriously bright but mild weather that spring really comes into its own. It’s the ideal season for exploring – not just all the nooks and crannies of the city itself, but also the lush gardens of Trsteno or the wild beauty of the Elafiti Islands. It’s a great time for hiking, picnicking, cycling and kayakinginstead of simply lolling on the beach.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

And don’t just take the cable car to the summit of Mount Srđ and come straight back down again; spend an hour or two strolling on the plateau behind the cable-car station, or head east to the village of Bosanka. High summer in Dubrovnik may be perfect for mid-day siestas and long sultry nights, but it’s in spring that the yearning for adventure really takes flight.

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6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world’s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend.

The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it.

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Lindjo Folk Ensemble Archives

What’s On ENRICH YOUR CALENDAR, SEE THE EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, AND SPECIAL EVENTS IN AND AROUND TOWN

What’s On EASTER 21.04

The Croatian word for Easter, Uskrs, means “resurrection”, and here, as in most Catholic countries, it’s a holiday whose importance closely rivals Christmas.

Holy Week starts one week before Easter Sunday with Cvjetna Nedjelja (Flower Sunday), when people take decorative twigs to church to be blessed, to protect their homes for the coming year.

The following week consists of cleaning and decorating the home to symbolise the rebirth of spring, and preparing traditional cakes and breads. On Holy Thursday, church bells are tied up for three days in respect of the Last Supper. At this time, one may not plough, sow or chop wood. Both the earth and our bodies must be allowed to rest and regenerate. Good Friday is not treated as a public holiday here.

On Easter Saturday, you are most likely to find people colouring and decorating eggs in traditional style.

There are many other traditions for this day, one example being burning wood in front of the church and carrying home the ash.

On Easter Sunday, those of a churchgoing persuasion will take traditional Easter food to be blessed, usually bread, ham, decorated eggs, spring onions, horseradish, salt and cake. Usually these are carried in a wicker basket covered with an embroidered cloth. Then it’s time to spend the rest of the day at home eating: this is considered a family celebration.

Red History Museum Archives

BALLET & DANCE 03.05 - 15.10 » THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr. Every Tuesday & Friday.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 01.04 - 31.10 » CANDLELIGHT CONCERTS

What could be more enjoyable than a candle-lit classical concert in the serene surroundings of the beautiful St. Saviour’s Church? Everyday there will be a concert held by a different ensemble: Mondays have the Sorkočević Quartet, Wednesdays the Dubrovnik String Quartet and Thursdays are booked for the most beautiful compositions by the ‘Great Masters’ with performances by Slobodan Begić on violin, Nena Ćorak on piano, Tomislav Žerovnik on guitar and Vanda Đanić on cello.QB‑2, Church of St Saviour, Placa bb. Every Mon, Wed, Thu.

12.04 - 31.05 » DUBROVNIK MUSICAL SPRING

The Dubrovnik Musical Spring is aimed at enriching the city’s cultural offer in spring and it features the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra with Marc Tardue as music director. The event is a cycle of classical music concerts and this year will feature some noted national and international artists performing in conjunction with the orchestra. Qwww.dso.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 28.12 - 30.04 » CHEST OF DRAWERS THROUGHOUT THE CENTURIES

What we take for granted today was a symbol of noble richness centuries ago. The exhibition at the Rector’s Palace presents 25 classical chests from the fundus of the Cultural and Historical Museum. These furniture pieces originated in the period from the 17th to the late 19th centuries and if you have an eye for furniture, we invite you to decipher the smallest details in craftsmanship.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97.

31.01 - 05.06 » COCKROACHES - THE WORLD THAT REMAINS BEHIND

Take a different approach to the cockroach through this exhibition which features the biology and evolution of this highly resistant animal group of insects. See the vast array of cockroach species, plus the insectarium depicting their entire life cycle through an example of the living units of the Madagascar juniper cockroach and Argentine cockroach. QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr.

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What’s On

Marin Držić Theatre Archives

01.01 - 31.12 » UNDER PRESSURE

Become a sea expert at the Natural History Museum of Dubrovnik where this all-year-round exhibition offers a thorough insight into what’s under the sea in the Adriatic.

Totally wild and totally made for adult and child, lots of visuals, fun and facts can be found without having to get all too wet!QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr.

16.03 - 21.04 » TOMISLAV IVANIŠIN: WILD FLOWERS

Dubrovnik-born artist Tomislav Ivanišin presents a selection of 150 paintings from his ‘Wild Flowers’ series made between 2005 and 2018. Ivanišin’s modernist style depicts landscape as a cartography of precise frames which can be found in a garden, meadow, hillside, underwater rocks – the entire world is revealed in nature and its totality, with aesthetics built sharply and sensuously, capturing metaphysical light.QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. ugdubrovnik.hr.

15.06 - 15.06 » THE BODY OF MY BODY

Portrait photographs of parents and children at all stages of life. Displayed without comment or interpretation, they are deeply touching. QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

21.03 - 28.04 » IVAN PERAK: BOATS

Famous for his expressive métiers d’art which is characterised by spot-colouring, Ivan Perak is an artist who breaks down visual form and creates abstract optical sensations, with the use of layered application of high-intensity colour. As such, his paintings are predominantly authentic colour experiments with a little connection to the famed Dubrovnik colourist tradition. This exhibition from the ‘Boats’ cycle will present the Dubrovnik artist’s talent in all its glory.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

18.03 - 31.12 » SELECTION OF ART WORKS BY ĐURO PULITIKA FROM THE DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY COLLECTION

When an artist has his own atelier opened to the public then you know he has attained success, Putilika has earnt this right and is part of the famous Dubrovnik-based trilogy of painters, alongside Antun Masle and Ivo Dulčić. This exhibit showcases a selection of art works from the Dubrovnik Art Gallery which will then be stored in his atelier permanently. QThe Pulitika Studio, www.ugdubrovnik. hr.

27.03 - 15.04 » AFRICA, TANZANIA AT HEART

The exhibition will present approximately fifty photos in large format taken by Dubrovnik architect Božo Benić Spring 2019

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What’s On between 2015 and 2017, during his voluntary journey to Africa. In particular, Benić depicts life in Tanzania, especially in relation to the humanitarian cause ‘Dubrovnik for Africa: Water Drops – An Ocean of Love’, thanks to which a large water supply system was built in poor and drought ridden settlements in the north of the country.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

01.04 - 31.10 » THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA

photography and transfers them onto a graphics board via traditional graphics techniques (copper etching and dry needle), thus creating different textures and multi-layered combinations of seemingly discordant elements.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

FESTIVALS

T​ he expression every picture tells a story has its merit.

This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Behrakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

13.06 - 16.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE

10.04 - 25.12 » LIFE IN YUGOSLAVIA

Martin Luther once said, ‘Beer is made by men, wine by God’. The message here is clear and the message in Dubrovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local experience, tourists must try at least some local wine. 14th century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here and this event brings wine from the cellar to the table. It’s an all-round experience with over 100 regional winemakers presenting their vino to experts; workshops are about ‘wine in tourism’ with topics from cork and packaging to making it on the market. Art exhibits, excursions to vineyards, local restaurants offering local wines with matching dishes. What can you say, a divine wine experience waits!

Sunset Beach Lapad BayQL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com.

Through the use of classical to modern technology, this exhibition provides a unique interactive experience dwelling into the former Yugoslavia with elements of its history, art and politics, through to secret government agencies, culture, food and more. See what life was like under socialist rule and you can even try versions of communist drinks and lollies…. QH‑1, Red History Museum, Sv.Križa 3, www.redhistorymuseum.com.

25.04 - 27.05 » SAO ROMA

The Association of Roma Folkloric Art named ‘Romano Ilo’ from Skopje, Northern Macedonia, present this multimedia exhibition which showcases the continuity and changes that have taken place over the past 50 years in marking their native holiday of ‘Đurđevdan’ in Skopje, celebrated from May 2 to 9. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr.

25.04 - 26.05 » ZLATAN VEHABOVIĆ: DARK WHITE COUNTRY

One of the most intriguing painters of the younger generation with a Zagreb address left home and went on a three-week voyage and is about to share his findings.

Vehabović took part in a sailing expedition starting at the Svalbard Islands located between Norway and the North Pole and explored its west archipelago. Paintings filled with incredible images of vast natural spaces emerged as a direct reaction to the incredible exposure to northern areas, thus the title of the exhibition. QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+38520) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

03.05 - 16.06 » KRISTINA RESTOVIĆ: TOURISTS

As an award winning artist, Restović deals with the implications of mass tourism along our coastline and beyond through graphic and digital media. Namely, Restović uses a technique of processing the negatives from her digital 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lepetitfestival.com.

FOOD & DRINK 22.04 - 28.04 » DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE

26.04 - 30.04 » KORČULANSKE PJATANCE SPRING FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL

The invitation is out for all food and wine lovers as local restaurants and taverns give their chefs free reign in tailor making menus and dishes just for this event. Set in beautiful gardens, bistros, and terraces, the season of spring brings with it an abundant amount of seasonal herbs and ingredients which is why this creative, proactive and selective event is worth visiting. Accompanying wines from the areas are just the added antidote to a perfect experience!QKorčula Island, www. korculanskepjatance.com.

SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS EVENTS 14.04 - 21.04 » HOLY WEEK IN KORČULA

Want a dose of ancient culture? Then head to Korčula during Holy Week as three local confraternities – the All Saints founded in 1301, St. Rocco founded in 1575 and St. Michael from 1603 unite to hold a colourful procession through the town dressed in remarkable costumes and religious regalia.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 26.04 - 28.04 » AKLAPELA

Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www. aklapela.hr.

01.05 - 24.06 » SPRING IN KONAVLE

Spring in Konavle is a series of active and recreational activities designed to promote the Konavle region as the ideal destination for rural tourism. Events range from races through nature and educational wine tours to traditional folklore festivals and art workshops. It’s also a wonderful opportunity for the whole family to try foods unique to the region.Qwww.visit.cavtat-konavle.com.

16.05 - 19.05 » FOLKLORE FESTIVAL “MOONLIGHT ON THE NERETVA”

This traditional folklore festival takes place at the Neretva River delta in the town of Metković. The four-day event brings together performers of traditional song and dance from across Dalmatia, other areas of Croatia and even around Europe.Visitors get the chance to see performances featuring traditional costumes that breathe new life into the area’s rich cultural heritage.Qwww.tzmetkovic. hr/en/.

01.06 - 05.06 » INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO ART FESTIVAL

Just as Marco Polo had travelled the distance, organisers go the distance with a focus on Art productions from the countries included along the Silk Road. Artistic moves, endeavours, trends, and productions from the new to old, historiographic to experimental and mainstream are captured and presented. It also brings forth a network of leaders and devotees in the field which becomes a hub for establishing dialogue!QKorčula Island, www. marcopoloartfestival.eu.

SPORT 27.04 » MARCO POLO CHALLENGE 2019 TRIATHLON

Swimming, cycling and running are part of any triathlon, but when it happens to be on the island of Korčula with its pine forests, pristine beaches and natural flora and fauna, it gives the word ‘triathlon’ a whole new meaning. All are welcomed from professionals to amateurs, pre and post events leading to the day will be held as well as the humanitarian aspect. Fitness, mingling and jingling, it will make Marco Polo himself quite proud!QKorčula, www. tksplit.hr.

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What’s On REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

27.04 - 28.04 » DU MOTION

Du Motion celebrates its first 5 years! There are four fantastic running events to be held over two days. Turn sporty and choose from the “21K”, a 21 km long race which starts and ends on Stradun. “Run the wall” is a 2km race which follows the entire lenght of the ancient walls.The “5 K” also starts and ends at Stradun and goes through to the Gruž harbour. Finally, we can’t forget our juniors with their “Kid’s Day” run from the Onofrio Fountain to Luža. All in all, a great atmosphere is truly felt around the place with this perfect combination of sports, culture and beauty. Log onto www.du-motion.com to reserve your entry!QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.du-motion.com.

14.05 - 19.05 » DUBROVNIK OUTDOOR FESTIVAL

Feeling adventurous! Then you’ve come to the right place with the 2nd edition of this festival taking place in May, along the Konvale bay. 6 days of various competitions for people of all visitors young and old will be held; try sea kayaking, running, abseiling, hiking, biking, rock-climbing, a duathlon and more amidst some of the most spectacular surroundings combining forestry, mountains and the sea.

Venture for adventure!Qwww.dubrovnikoutdoor.com.

25.05 » GREEN TRAIL MLJET

An international fun run using the footpaths and mountaineering trails of Mljet National Park. There’s a kids’ race at 13:00, and two runs for adult competitors at noon: the 11km Ogiran, and the muscle-stretching 33km Odysseus. All events start and finish at the little village of Polače.Qwww.facebook.com/greentrailmljet.

THEATRE 18.04 » SUTON

Under the direction of Ivica Boban, the audience get to the see premiere of ‘Suton’(Dusk), a tale of love versus pride amidst Dubrovnik’s aristocracy as written by one of the city’s best authors in Ivo Vojnović. More performances to follow! QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www.kmd.hr.

15.05 - 18.05 » SNOW QUEEN

The Zagreb’s Trešnja Theater is home to many wonderful children’s plays with the latest being the ‘Snow Queen’ as directed by Paola Tišljarić according to the text H.C. Andersen and adapted by Lada Kaštelan. QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www. kmd.hr.

31.05. » ADAM AND EVE

Another premiere at the Marin Držić Theater is ‘Adam and Eve’ according to the great Croatian writer Miroslav Krleža, and is directed by young Helena Petković. QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www.kmd.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com 12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Orlando’s Year Most cities have their must visit landmarks whether they are buildings, churches, museums, stadiums, botanical gardens, castles and more. Dubrovnik too has its fair amount of popular attractions one of which is the statue of Orlando on the Luža Square.

The original and precise name is ‘Orlando’s Column’ and it is a symbol of freedom and state independence which has served Dubrovnik over the centuries. It was made in 1418 by local sculptor Antun Dubrovčanin and master sculptor Bonino di Milano.

According to legend, Orlando saved Dubrovnik from a 15-month siege from the Saracens in the 9th century, after which thankful citizens erected the column in his honour, but as truth would have it, the real Orlando – better known as Roland – was French, and he became a symbol of a city under the protection of the Hungarian- Croatian king.

Orlando’s Column has served many purposes over the years. It measures 51.2 cm from hand to elbow and was used as a unit of measurement. It was used as the city’s Pillar of Shame, a place where criminals or guilty wrongdoers were bound and publicly shamed. Proclamations of State were read here with the flying of the flag and it also reminded Ottoman suzerains that the locals would always identify with Christian Europe rather than Constantinople.

With the collapse of the Republic in 1815, Orlando’s Column was destroyed in 1825, only to be re-established in its current location (facing north this time) in 1878.This swordbrandishing knight has stood the test of time ever since and is a centre piece of the city. It still plays an essential role today where locals and tourists meet, photos are taken and serenades are sung - rain, hail or shine 2019 has been chosen as the Year of Orlando with eminent cultural and entertainment events to be held throughout the entire year. Look out for concerts, orchestras, art exhibits, workshops, sporting events and more.

With such memorial events being held over time, the angelic faced knight will indeed remain as a public figure for centuries to come. And even though generations have come and gone, Orlando has and always will remain at the heart of local folk, their sign of ‘Libertas.’

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Restaurants CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). A­P­G­T­U­6­W BISTRO TAVULIN With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of traditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have you rushing for the cash machine. The octopus ragout with beans and polenta (150Kn) is something of a signature dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish and slow cooked veal are among the other regular standouts, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From June Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 190kn). P­G­B­J­6­W­i DUBROVNIK A consistently good place for succulent seafood pasta dishes and quality grilled or baked fish, the Dubrovnik was one of the establishments rewarded with a place on Michelin’s list in 2018. The covered roof terrace is one of the Old Town’s most evocative dining-out locations; there’s a good list of top Croatian wines, and service is very smooth indeed.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-) 099 258 58 71, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(180-450 kn). A­G­T­U­B­W KAVANA TEATAR Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.

This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00; Sat 08:00 -24:00; Sun 08:00 - 24:00. (35 - 130kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­V­ 6­W

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurantkomin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). A­P­ G­T­B­L­6­W KOPUN Nestling under gnarled trees near the Jesuit Church Kopun has carved out an enviable reputation as a restaurant that does traditional and contemporary at the same time. They have reinvented dishes like kopun (the roast capon from which the restaurant gets its name) and šporkimakaruli (an old-school Dubrovnik dish featuring tubes of pasta with goulash) alongside a wealth of delicate pastas, risottos and salads. Quality food, smooth service, and the view isn’t bad either.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www. restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimozadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

A­P­G­T­B­E­S­6­W­i ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 23:30. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ETHNIC CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385-) 099 68 52 380/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 16:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (55 - 155kn). N­P­B­ E­S­V­W

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Restaurants MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 140kn) €€. A­P­G­X­ T­U­B­S­J­6­W TAJ MAHAL Although the name might make you think of India this is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www. tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (90 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­6­W TAKENOKO Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japanese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the ambiance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en. From April 15 Open 18:00 - 23:30. (87 - 400kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­S­J­W­K

INTERNATIONAL GIL’S LITTLE BISTRO ‘Let’s cut in front of you!’ This tiny bistro offers a unique culinary experience in which you pick your slice of meat before it’s prepared. A new concept to restaurants in this beautiful historic city. The menu offers a wide variety of steaks, along with truffle based dishes and fresh local oysters from the nearby city, Ston. The meals are a bit pricey, but worth it for a heavenly cuisine experience.QC‑2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 68/(+385-) 098 196 21 36, www.gils.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 240kn).

A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W LUCIN KANTUN Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lucin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach which means that you can order several small plates of dif16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ferent things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the approach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley. QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:30 22:00. (38 - 160kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W PANTARUL Located near a road junction in the residential part of Lapad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experimentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Pantarul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should always reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00; closed Mon., From April 21 Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00.

Closed Mon. (84 - 230kn). A­P­G­T­S­L­W PEPPERS EATERY Occupying a cute stone house and walled courtyard right opposite Lapad’s new yachting marina, Peppers offers a broad range of local and international fare in a relaxing bar-bistro environment. The list of starters includes the kind of global fare (hummus, bruschettas, chicken satay) that works well as a light lunch; while the mains revolve grilled steak, tuna and lamb choices, alongside the odd novelty such as the duck burger. Desserts are excellent and Peppers also works well as a drinks bar, with British summertime staples like Pimms and lemonade on offer a well as the local tipple.QLapadska obala 20, tel. (+38520) 48 75 78, www.pepperseatery.com. Open 12:00 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70- 190kn). A­P­B­S­W PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby market;although the accompanying sauces and spices may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 – 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W­i STARA LOZA One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a recommendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s fine-dining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of European classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), beautifully prepared and presented. The starters involve a few notable adventures in global fusion, and the dessert list is second to none. For a total blow-out, the multicourse tasting menus are well-worth considering. There dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

are great views from the indoor part of the restaurant and the rooftop terrace is quite simply stunning – be sure to reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www. prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (100 - 210 kn).

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from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik. com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­ U­B­J­6­W

TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverne has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From May Open 09:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­ B­6­W

KONOBA JEZUITE With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Jesuit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-20) 30 10 14, www.dubrovnikrestaurant.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ J­W­i

KONOBA DALMATINO DUBROVNIK After several years building up a reputation in the alleys south of StradunDalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street.

The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you should try is žrnovski makaruli, the tubular pasta facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

KONOBA POPRET For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik.

It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations, such as a confirmation, first communion or small wedSpring 2019

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Restaurants ding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63/(+385-) 091 526 77 82. Open 16:00 - 23:00. (18 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­I­ E­S­L­6­W PJATANCA Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary – real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell.QL‑5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-) 098 938 00 23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 180kn). A­G­X­ T­B­W PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.

QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. From May Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). A­G­X­T­U­B­ S­J­W­K ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, www.konoba-rozario.hr/contact.html. Open 11:00 23:00. (90 - 175kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­J­i

BREAKFAST ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 - 23:00. (65 - 120kn). A­B­J­W PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A­P­ G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W­i 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

MEDITERRANEAN ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. (200 - 250kn). A­T­B­J­W­i AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (120 - 250 kn). A­P­G­X­B­W AQUARIUS Location, location! Aquarius is the perfection location for a restaurant as it is tucked away in a courtyard off the old town walls. It even offers a great view of the cable-car and surrounding hills as you can sit out on the open garden terrace. Food wise, Aquarius has a solid seafood offer which includes various sized platters; they also have pastas, anti-pastas and grilled meals. The assortment of local wines adds to the homely feel of this eatery with attentive staff on hand. QMata Vodopića 4, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, www.hotel-aquarius.net.

BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a predominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cocktails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­J­W CASA The restaurant, which is downstairs from Villa Wolf, is relatively cheap given the quality of hotel attached, and is very straightforward and entirely Mediterranean in content. It is situated at the beginning of a must-walk path, trailing the coastline around the south-west of the city. The view from the restaurant’s terrace is serene, even allowing for a dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

few jet-skis, and while everything is but a short walk away the area is quite peaceful and relaxed.QG‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 87 10, www.restaurant-casa. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­L­W CULTO Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds.

Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 150kn). A­P­T­B­L­W DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants. com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­ U­B­W­i facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL In real-estate they say that location is important and this is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from breakfast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establishment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

(98 - 178kn). A­P­G­B­J GUSTA ME Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric. The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com.

Open 11:00 - 23:00, From May Open 08:30 - 24:00. (70 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W

Read more reviews online: dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Spring 2019

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Restaurants KLARISA There are few places in Dubrovnik that have such a grand setting and remain affordable at the same time. With tables spread across the awesome arcaded courtyard of the former Convent of St Claire, Klarisa is well suited to a large group meal or an intimate dinner for two. The menu is a broad-based affair that runs from pizzas to fillet steaks, so you are sure to find something for everyone. Traditional Dubrovnik desserts like Rožata and Orange and Almond Cake are well worth sticking around for. QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisadubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 220kn).

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LACROMA On old wooden shack dating back to the Austro-Hungarian period was restored to create this sleek,design-conscious restaurant that looks out on the lush greenery of Lokrum, the nature-reserve island just south of the city. Sea bass, tuna steak and some excellent steaks are the main stars of the menu the Croatia-wide wine list will take quite some getting through. QLokrum island, tel. (+385-) 098 345 085, www.lacroma.restaurant. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (100 - 200kn). A­T­B­W

KOMARDA A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL‑2, Ulica Frane Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, www. restaurant-komarda.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 150kn). A­P­X­T­B­W

LAJK Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.

Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads, bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.lajkrestaurant-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 14:00 18:00 22:00. (120-260kn). A­T­B­6­W

LA CAPELLA Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any anniversary dinner, or valentine’s rendezvous. The menu, while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and features cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, the latter three, of course, having had some historical influence within the region in centuries past.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, www.thepucicpalace.com.

Open 18:00 - 24:00. (180 - 450kn). A­P­X­T­U­B­ J­6­W

MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City.

Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­T­ U­B­S­V­L­6­W

Konoba Jezuite Archives

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dalmatino Restaurant Archives

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Restaurants NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.

Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (510 - 900kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W ORKA MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE Lapad’sharbour-facing shore is enjoying something of a boom thanks to the construction of the new marina, and Orka is another fine excuse to head out that way. Seafood and pasta dishes are served in an elegant first-floor dining room (think bare stone walls, wooden beams, rack upon rack of wine and a fish tank), and there’s a secluded outdoor terrace at the back. Fresh fish and seafood stews are the standouts; everything is neatly presented and the desserts are a knock-out.QH‑2, Lapadska obala 11, tel. (+385-) 099 690 33 34, www.orka-restaurant.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00 . (180 - 290kn). A­P­B­W­i PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering absolutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restaurant that maintains high standards of food and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reservation. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 182kn). A­P­G­X­B­W POKLISAR The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.QD‑2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, www.poklisar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (80 220kn). A­P­G­T­U­B­E­J­W POSAT Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat has been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for decades – although it is in recent years that it has been elevated to the fine dining league. The place prides itself on fresh fish, crabs and prawns; this is one place where it might be worth splashing out on the grilled fresh catch. Diners are rewarded with magnificent views of Dubrovnik’s walls, perfect for an evening of relaxed culinary indulgence.QK‑3, Uz posat 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94, www.posat-dubrovnik.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (170 - 270kn). A­P­G­B­J RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 83 68, www.restaurant-horizont.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­W

Klarisa Restaurant Archives

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Spring 2019

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Restaurants SESAME Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. Once you enter, the décor takes you on a journey of this grand city whilst the culinary scents begin to override your visual senses. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main!QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60-200 kn).

A­P­T­B­S­J­6­W VAPOR A Micheline Guide Restaurant (recommended by Michelin guide for the third year in a row). For classy Mediterranean food in a suave but soothing environment there are few better places than Vapor, just below the lobby area of the newley refurbished Bellevue Hotel. It commands superb views of neighbouring cliffs and the open sea – and if you have your heart set on one of the outside tables, be sure to make a reservation. The menu applies just the right amount of creativity to classic local ingredients, with delicate risottos, white fish in delectable sauces, and exquisite desserts among the many highlights. Service is as smooth and courteous as you would expect.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. (105 - 950kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­E­L­W­i WANDA You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun.

QB‑2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/(+385-) 098 944 93 18, www.wandarestaurant.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (70 - 290kn). P­G­B

MEET THE MEAT DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, www.restaurantdomino-dubrovnik. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­U­ B­J­6­W 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (120 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W­i

PIZZA&PASTA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 11:00 - 22:00, From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (35 120kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­S­W MEA CULPA Long-standing old-town pizzeria that has kept its standards high, with tables filling a broad alley that runs alongside an open-air cinema. Mea Culpa’s thin-crust pies come in a range of traditional flavours as well as modern improvisations – the kebab pizza might appeal to some, while the Mea Culpa pizza goes for lashings of Gorgonzola cheese. There is also the (nowadays inevitable) Nutella pizza, and a vegetarian lasagne for those who need to give the meat a rest. QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

(70 - 210kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W PASTA LAB Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00.

(38-75 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open 09:30 - 23:00, From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. A­P­G­ X­T­B­S­V­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants TRATTORIA Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset Beach complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building houses a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serving traditional-style pizzas. They also do bruschettas, salads, pastas and burgers, plus inexpensive lunchtime specials in the shoulder season. There’s an adjoining café-patisserie with some rather fine cakes. Freshly-squeezed juice and Korlat aged brandies add class to the drinks list. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sunsetbeachdubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (40 - 110kn). A­P­T­U­B­S­L­W

SEAFOOD BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 69kn).

A­P­G­T­S­J­W FISH RESTAURANT PROTO Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www. esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00; . (150 250kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­W

ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurantorsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W­i OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:00 23:00. (28 - 135kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W

STREET FOOD

KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00, From July Open 08:00 24:00. (50 - 140kn). A­U­B­J

BISTRO 49 This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste…

Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž harbour, a major transit point. The menu personifies everything from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experience at Bistro 49. QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 38. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A­B­V­W

BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

(26 - 30kn). N­P­G­U­B­S­J­W

LEVANAT This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­W

BURGER TIGER This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (44-85kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­S­J­W

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

TUTTO BENE A fast food joint with several branches throughout the city, Tutto Bene goes about things with a bit of class and attention to detail. The tortillas and sandwiches come in a few local-ingredient versions, and there are some out-ofthe-ordinary burgers too: Piggy Black contains Slavonian pork, and there is a lamb version too.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 85kn). A­U­J­W

VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (58 - 108kn). A­G­X­B­S­J­W

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OUT OF TOWN CAVTAT BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (90 370kn). A­T­B­L­W LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

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Restaurants ists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn).

A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12. Open 18:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 180kn). A­G­X­U­B­6­W

LASTOVO Photo by Višnja Arambašić

TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.

Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­6­W

KONAVLE KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (100 - 200kn). A­T­B­L­6­W NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (100 - 130kn). A­G­X­B­L­W

KORČULA ADIO MARE Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tour26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

TRITON A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 08:00 24:00. (60 - 200kn). N­G­X­B­W­i

METKOVIĆ VILLA NERETVA A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog.

If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada – beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci.

QSplitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ I­E­S­L­6­W

MLINI LEUT Fancy a bite, Leut is a fine-dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel which dines guests both indoors and outdoors as it has lovely garden and sea views for those warm evenings. Leut serves genuine local and international delicacies and the spread they put on for breakfast is grandiose. With an impressive list of premium wines from Croatia and beyond, one can really feel at home here with the world at your plate. QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana 17 (Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel), Srebreno, tel. (+385-20) 60 15 00, www.dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr.

Open 06:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:00.

LOKAL - ONE SUITE HOTEL As part of the One Suite Hotel in Mlini, Lokal is a bar/cafe that oozes class and creativity intertwined. From 7:00 to 12:00 they offer top quality breakfast and brunch. The menu is totally based on organic and seasonal ingredients form local producers. There is gluten free to vegetarian dishes, fresh dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

juices, organic teas, homebrewed coffee, croissants; eggs prepped to your choice, pancakes and other delights. And if you’re not peckish, simply chill in the bar with beverages and cocktails from this top notch establishment! QŠetalište dr.

Franje Tuđmana 1, Mlini, tel. (+385 - 20) 22 22 22, www. onesuitehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PELJEŠAC D’ORO BAR&GRILL Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies Mediterranean food with its local offer. One can expect fresh seafood, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with olives, prosciutto, cheese etc. The beers and wines are refreshingly chilled, and probably best of all is the location; a covered terrace right on the beachfront overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a place to chill and be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 85 25 85. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (90-160kn). A­B­W

STON BOTA ŠARE Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.

Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/ (+385-) 091 175 44 79, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

KAPETANOVA KUĆA Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, www.ostrea.hr. Open 09:00 23:00. (80 - 125kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vilakoruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). A­P­G­ X­U­B­L­J­W

ZATON ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

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Coffee & Cakes CAKES DOLCE VITA This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun.

QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/ (+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00 - 22:00. N­P­B MALA TRUBA Dubbed by locals as one of the best places to get a nibble, the ‘Mala truba patisserie’ (meaning ‘little trumpet’) is a cute little store filled with delicious pastries, freshly baked bread, sandwiches, cakes, tarts and a world of eatable delights. Lucija Tomašić, a cake master who studied at the prestigious school Le Cordon Bleu in London uses fresh local ingredients and attention to detail is seen in all her crafty foods. The concept is ‘good to go’ so you’ll take your supplies out to eat! QI‑2, Vukovarska 22 (Mercante Centar), Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Closed May 25 - June 10. N PASTRY & COCKTAIL BAR SLATKI KANTUN Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding bow, Slatki Kantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, although it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium.

With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sunset glinting off the waves.QF‑2, Nike i Meda Pucića, 13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.hotel-more.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. A­P­B­W­C PEPPINO’S ICE CREAM Ice cream is getting better in Dubrovnik and Peppino’s is one of the reasons why, with a great range of creamy flavours (from crowd-pleasing Ferrero Rocher to more niche flavours like pistaccio an hazelnut) sold from a small shop right behind the Stradun. It’s available in cornets or tubs at 15kn per scoop. QC‑3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-) 091 459 00 02, www.peppinos.premis. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. N­W PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com.

Open 07:00 - 20:00. From May Open 07:00 - 22:00.

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COFFEE CAFÉ FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www. cafefestival.com. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W CELE Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun, within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result.

It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas, burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu if you’re hungry. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. (60 130kn). A­B­S­J­W­i COGITO COFFEE SHOP In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge. Cold coffee and fresh fruit juice also served. Q ​​​​​​​ D‑4, Stajeva 5, www. cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00; . A FASHION CAFÉ In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 07:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­6­W LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G­X­B­6­W SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. From April 20 Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­J­ 6­W­i dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BEHIND THE BAR Whilst you venture Dubrovnik streets, you might bump into Nikša Beloč, Head Bartender at The Imperial Bar & Lounge, who will tell us a little about the Imperial Bar & Lounge and its offer.

DIYP: Please tell us a little about yourself, who are you and what do you do?

Nikša: I would characterise myself as very private, humble and highly professionally-oriented. Active, always cooking something, testing, trying out new things, a foodie. I’m always smiling, I love contact with people and, most importantly, I love my job!

DIYP: When did you first stand behind a bar and decide to become a bartender?

Nikša: I first decided to become a cook, but as I came closer to finishing my training I started to show an ever increasing interest in the bar segment. The reason behind this was my trip to a bartending competition in Macedonia for European high school students studying tourism.

I came last, but afterwards realised that this was my calling. However, I considered I had to train myself up before standing behind a bar. So, while searching for courses and

The Imperial Bar&Lounge, Hilton Imperial Archive

schools I came across a picture of a man in a white coat with bartending equipment and an eprouvette containing some kind of red liquid. It was of the Nekić barology cocktail studio in Zagreb, and the man in the picture, now my colleague and friend, was Saša Lovrenščak. Then followed 5 months of socialising, learning, testing and getting to know other people in the industry. When I returned to Dubrovnik I found a job in the Hilton Imperial hotel where I first stood behind a bar and where I am proud to say I still work today.

The Imperial Bar&Lounge, Hilton Imperial Archive

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Nightlife DIYP: What, in your opinion, is the definition of a good bar?

Nikša: I consider that there are certain standards beneath which no bar should fall in order to be classified as good.

Starting from the theme of the bar, the décor, the atmosphere in the bar, the quality of the ingredients, the standards of hygiene (which I consider really important), and, most importantly, great staff. None of the things I have mentioned can compare with a person, their competence to present everything I have mentioned and to transform their bar into your new favourite spot. It’s important to find staff who have the enthusiasm to learn and to strive for ever increasing levels of quality.

DIYP:The Imperial Bar and Lounge has a long history.

Do you have any interesting stories about the bar, and what would you say are the best things about the bar today? Can you drink the same cocktails in the bar today that people drank 100 years ago?

Nikša: I have already mentioned the standards beneath which a good bar should not slip. I can say that The Imperial Bar and Lounge has throughout its history been and remains a good bar and a favourite meeting spot both for the people of Dubrovnik and for visitors. With last year’s

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renovation the bar has gained a breath of glamour in a space in which guests feel relaxed and special. We always look ahead, we want to be better, we listen and take note of constructive criticism. In keeping with the bar’s story, the cocktail menu is inspired by Shaw’s Book of Cocktails which was published in 1897, the year when the hotel was built, and we have included cocktails which date back to before 1900. Apart from historically-inspired cocktails our guests can also order modern classics, but we’re particularly happy to create new cocktails with their favourite ingredients or drinks. Also, we’re famous for our Imperial Afternoon Tea, an English tea-drinking ritual with savoury and sweet snacks.

DIYP: Where do you like to go out in Dubrovnik when you have the evening off?

Nikša: It depends what mood I am in, but one of my favourites is definitely Lokal Bar In One. Especially on Thursdays when they have their “Mix&Mingle” events. There’s a great atmosphere, excellent offering of food and drink and of course, excellent bar staff. A concept which I like very much is the Gin&Jazz evenings which we organise in the Hilton. Live music, excellent gin, cocktails and a wonderful atmosphere are attracting ever more guests, and if I wasn’t behind the bar I would definitely be among them.

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Nightlife BARS BUŽA What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00 or according to weather conditions. X­B BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25. Open 08:00-02:00. P­X­U­B­E­J­6­W CASABLANCA BAR One of several bars squeezed together on this old-town stepped street, Casablanca is the one that makes most of an effort, backing up a rather fine selection of drinks, shots and cocktails with a pumping collection of DJdriven tunes. As the sister-bar of the Revelin nightclub it’s the warm-up venue of choice for the city’s clubbers, and generates a sufficient party atmosphere of its own for those who just don’t have the energy to budge.QC‑2, Ul. Zamanjina 7. Open Fri, Sat 20:00-02:00. J GLAM BEER THERAPY Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:0002:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09. Open 09:00-02:00. A­P­B­E­W ROCK CAFFE EXIT This legendary old-town bar draws loyal locals throughout the winter and all-sorts in summer. It consists of a long first-floor room and doesn’t have any outside terrace, giving it the intimate but smoky feel of a real big-city bar.

The walls are covered with album covers and pop-star photos, while Rock with a capital R (mostly heavy rather than indy) blasts out of the speakers. Refresh yourself with Pan pivo on tap and a few craft beers in the fridge.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­E­J­W 32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE BAR BY AZUR A new venture from the team that run the Azur restaurant, this roomy (at least by Dubrovnik Old-Town standards) bar on two levels features cool matt-black stylings and comfy chairs in pop-art colours. Creative cocktails are Azur’s strongpoint; there’s also a big choice of gins, and a respectable range of craft brews – including tasty sipping beers from Zagreb’s Garden and Zmajsko stables.QK‑3, Kunićeva 5, tel. (+385-20) 45 44 77, www.azurvision. com. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. G­J THE IMPERIAL BAR & LOUNGE Dubrovnik’s Hotel Imperial remembers the days when Britain’s King Edward VIII danced here with Wallis Simpson in the hotel gardens. Reflagged as Hilton in 2005, the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik has preserved its 19th century architectural features and façade. Spring 2018 renovation, was used as an opportunity to rebrand hotel’s bar to The Imperial Bar & Lounge preserving hotels rich heritage and combining it with modern comforts and luxuries. The Imperial Bar & Lounge has become one of the city’s best loved meeting spots and is a place to enjoy expertly crafted contemporary, historic and signature cocktails, such as Milk Punch.QUlica Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Open 08:00-24:00.

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CLUBS CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), www.clubrevelin.com. Open Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

A­P­W LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 05:00.

PUBS DUBROVNIK BEER COMPANY TAP ROOM Opened in spring 2018, the Dubrovnik Beer Company’s tap room occupies the front end of the industrial unit where they actually brew the beer, but still manages to feel like a convivial and welcoming bar. Their own excellent beers (including lager-like Maestral, the Pale Ale-ishFortunal and Grego stout) are all available on tap, along with guest beers from other independent brewers. It’s well off the dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife tourist beaten path and well worth the trip. QObala Pape Ivana Pavla II 15, tel. (+385-) 095 901 4054, www. dubrovackapivovara.hr. Open 19:00-01:00; closed Sat, Sun.

5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com.

Open 09:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W

LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00-02:00. A­P­X­ B­J­6­W

IRISH PUB KARAKA Located a stone’s throw from the Stradunbut tucked into an intimate alley, this alien presence in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish term Craic;the name couldn’t have been better chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača

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WINE BARS

RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00-24:00. A­P­ G­W

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Sightseeing ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-) 099 254 67 77, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 150kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 25kn.

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. No admission.

THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.

The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30.

Admission 200/50 kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15 kn.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified museum ticket (see the box below).

UNIFIED MUSEUM TICKET Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

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Sightseeing

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours.

Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

HOMELAND WAR MUSEUM The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.

QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 08:00 - 20:00; , From May Open 08:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn. Children under 12 free.

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART DUBROVNIK (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. momad.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

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Sightseeing THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzejmarindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 50kn.

GALLERIES OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine houses – which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with a peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s premier modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several mediums and artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel. (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www. dubravkalosic.com.

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THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

THE PULITIKA STUDIO As you stroll around the Old Town make sure to visit this studio located in the very City walls. The former private art studio owned by one of Croatia’s most famous contemporary artists, Đuro Pulitika, has been converted into an exhibition space and is one of three homes to the city’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMa). It houses a plethora of artworks dedicated to this grand city and its citizens spanning centuries!QE‑3, St.John Fortress, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 04, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36).

THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here.

It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad. hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free. From May admission 25kn.

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Sightseeing

WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00. From May 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

LANDMARKS BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 18:00. From June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 60/20 kn.

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

May Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 -24:00.

Round-trip ticket 150/60 kn.

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Sightseeing GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. parkorsula.du-hr.net.

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master crafts-

St. Blaise Festival in February, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović

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Sightseeing

man famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings TOP SIGHTS BAĆINA LAKES (BAĆINSKA JEZERA) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče.

BUKOVAC HOUSE (KUĆA BUKOVAC) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the bestloved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www. kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Admission 30kn.

Mljet Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Meha

Narona Archaeological Museum Archives, Photo by Marin Veraja Salt Festival, Ston Tourist Board Archives

METKOVIĆ NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum.

The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats.

One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr/. Open 09:00 - 16.00; Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn.

MILLS ON THE RIVER LJUTA The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKonavle.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings MLJET NATIONAL PARK & ODYSSEU’S CAVE Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries.

Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.QPristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www.np-mljet. hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From June Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Admission 70/50 kn. From June 125/70kn.

NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+38520) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00 - 15:00. From June Open 09:00 - 19:00. Tickets 70/30 kn.

STON SALTWORKS (SOLANA STON) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston.

Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 15kn. Guided tours 22.5 kn per person. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI RAČIĆ) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, www.migk.hr.

Open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/15kn.

THE WALLS OF STON In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Ston Wall Marathon, Ston Tourist Board Archives

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/(+38520) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:0018:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings ISLANDS KORČULA K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. From May 15 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

LASTOVO Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 16:00; closed Sat;Sun.

MLJET With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.

The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00; closed Sat;Sun., From June Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archidubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

NORTH OF DUBROVNIK The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

NERETVA

Korčula Tourist Board Archives

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If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge Spring 2019

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Dubrovnik Surroundings at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 10 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

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The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will hardly be long enough.

OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00; closed Sat;Sun., May Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00; closed Sat;Sun., From June Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00.

SLANO Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers.

The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Ston Tourist Board Archives

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

DUBROVAČKO PRIMORJE TOURIST BOARD QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00; closed Sat;Sun., From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has Spring 2019

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Dubrovnik Surroundings taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

ARBORETUM TRSTENO QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00; , From May Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn.

SOUTH OF DUBROVNIK CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

KONAVLE Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle.

The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evi50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhabited the region before them is still visible. In the village of Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to the pagan god Mithras.

In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, notably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.

Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing fortress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and Roman fortifications.

Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.

You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.

Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent hotels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.

Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay away from the crowds.

Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alternative to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food just as people have made at home for generations, plucked fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying something of a revival.

With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recreational activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist train through the Konavle vineyards.

At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spectacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully displayed, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your fingertips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and wonderful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 15:00; closed Sat;Sun., From May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Leisure

DAY 10-18 1/2 DAY 10-14 / 14-18 SUNSET 18.30-20-30

Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A Dubrovnik Half Marathon runners on their way, DuMotion Run Archives

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

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Leisure ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, biking and hiking in Konavle. More information on contact below.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42, www.adventuredalmatia.com.

Open by prior arrangement.

BLUE PLANET Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www. blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

BUNGEE JUMPING Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for lifelong memories. The lads on 53m high Franjo Tuđman Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.

QG‑1, Franjo Tuđman Bridge, tel. +385 91 111 55 44, www.bungee-jumping-dubrovnik.com/. By prior arrangement. From June Open 11:00 - 20:00. 600kn.

DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.

QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

DUBROVNIK SAILING Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure to recreational all down to professional sports sailing.

Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches, caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be working overtime and all you need to do is let the skipper know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. dubrovnik-sailing.com.

GREEN SEA SAFARI Doing good has its rewards, and this non-profit association has one key mission and that is to clean the beaches, islands and bays of the Adriatic Sea and its underwater world from plastic, bottles and similar waste. Starting with Dubrovnik, the project depends solely on the help of its members and donations. So be active, tours involve cleaning a specific bay for an hour and then the rest of the day is action packed with snorkelling in caves, exploring the islands and beach bars. One boat can carry up to 12 persons per day!Qwww.greenseasafari.com.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They offer ATV Quad Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle mainland, for the price of 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari and 800kn horseback riding (including the transport from/to Kojan Koral).QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Shopping ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

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ART GALLERIES AR BASTION A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. A ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings

by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired by episodes and stories from the history of the republic.

QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 -20:00.

From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 399 16 85, www.jadranka-munitic.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. N KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 22:00. From May Open 12:00 - 24:00. A LUNA+SOL ART GALLERY Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contemporary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewellery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale.

In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that they also organise transport and delivery worldwide.

QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www. lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.

Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From May Open 10:00 24:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.

QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

CHIC & CHEERFUL BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

CVIJET BY KIKE For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA Set in a rather fabulously renovated garage directly above the Ploče Gate, Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers (except for the drinking horns made by Slovenia’s ingeniously odd Goat Story), and covers pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. Even the mugs, fridge magnets and postcards are totally different from anything you will find elsewhere. The T-shirts made by the Kawa team or commissioned from local artists are totally unique, and will be treasured as highly wearable artefacts rather than dutifully-purchased souvenirs. The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries. QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 01 45. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From June Open 09:00 - 23:00. A GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other wellknown cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligoratrgovina-dubrovnik. Open 07:00 -14:00; closed Sun., From April 15 Open 07:00 - 24:00. A­G­B KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. A ŠKAR WINERY This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. The small familyrun business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced.

The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

TAJ BUTCHERAJ MEAT BOUTIQUE Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalmatinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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Clara Stones Archives

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Shopping JEWELLERY CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00. A­J DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, From April Open 09:00 - 20:00. A KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. A

SOUVENIRS BABOON A traditional craft store in Dubrovnik where you can find handmade jewellery, paper flowers and various original gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 12:00. W

MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj, handmade lace from Lepoglava, ceramics and vases, silk scarfs, natural cosmetics and all sorts of delicatessens like truffles, olive oil or local honey.QB/C‑2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, www. medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From April Open 09:00 - 22:00. A MUSEUM SHOP One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/ muzejska-prodavaonica. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W PALMA Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 15:00.

instagram.com/inyourpocket Cvijet by Kike Flower Shop Archives, www.cvijetbykike.com

DEŠA PRO Founded in 2012 by the ‘DEŠA Association’, this is about a noble cause aimed at employing women 40 or over, women with disabilities and other socially excluded people through the production and sale of quality and innovative textiles and gastro products inspired by Croatian heritage.

See their products which are hand-made, unique, whether woven, embroidered, painted or knitted and bear the identity of the Dubrovnik City, and our Mediterranean climate.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.

The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS 2019 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 21 Easter April 22 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 20 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

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Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović

TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 08:00 - 22:00.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY BOAT There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00.

Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 35 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet May 27 - October 6. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

ARRIVING BY BUS The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croafacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From May Open 08:00 20:00.

LAPAD QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From May 16 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Fri. PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. From May 16 Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu, Sat Open 14:00 - 20:00.

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ARRIVING BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

ARRIVING BY PLANE DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Platanus Travel Agency bus which trundles into town (45 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station.

Municipal buses no. 11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250 kn.QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

CAR RENTAL AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.

Open 07:00-21:00. A HERTZ Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi. Open 07:00 - 21:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-a-car.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

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Arrival & Getting Around TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT LIBERTAS The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12 kn from news kiosks (15 kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25 kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385-20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

TOWED AWAY Photo by Ivana Stanešić

UNI RENT Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-12:00. A

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 – 75kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en/.

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If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A KORKYRA QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. A VIVADO Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Street register A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2 Brsalje A-2 Brsečinska I-2 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Buža D-1 Cavtatska K-2 Celestina Medovića B-2 Crijevićeva C-4 Cvijete Zuzorić C-3 Čubranovićeva B-2 Ćilipska I-2 Ćira Carića G-2 D. Pulića A-1 Dalmatinska H-2 Dante Alighieria J-3 Dinka Ranjine C-3 Dolska H-1 Dr. A. Šercera H-2 Dr. V. Mačeka I-2 Dračasta K-2 Dropčeva C-2 Državna cesta D-8 Dubravkina G-2 Dunavska G-2/3 Džamija C-3 Đorđićeva B-2 Đura Baljevića D-4 Đura Basaričeka I-1 E. Kumičića H-2 F. Kolumbića H-2 F. Prešerna I-2 F. Supila L-2 Ferićeva B-3 Flore Jakšić G-2 G. Rajčevića I-2/3 Garište B-2 Getaldićeva B-2

Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius Restaurant Levanat

Merit Cas

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City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

sino

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Dubravka

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Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock CafĂŠ

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

Download the Dubrovnik Card brochure here

Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides No charge for children up to 7 y.o.

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

www.dubrovnikcard.com