Dubrovnik In Your Pocket City Guide No28

Maps

Events

Restaurants

CafĂŠs

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Dubrovnik Summer 2019

Valley of Life N°28 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Down by the Waterside in the Neretva Delta

- no need to book, just show up 10 min before departure - tickets available on the spot / 5% discount on online bookings: www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com SCHEDULE 2019 13:30 A STORY ABOUT THE WAR 09:30 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 150+50* KN / 2 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 10:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31

15:00 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31

10:20 DUBROVNIK ENTDECKER TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31

16:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31

10:30 DESCUBRIR-DUBROVNIK RECORRIDO A PIE 90 KN / 1 hour / April 1 to Oct 31

16:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31

11:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / year round

17:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / June 1 to Sept 30

11:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Sep 30

17:30 CITY WALLS & DUBROVNIK 200+200** KN / 2.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31

12:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / year round

17:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Sep 1 to Oct 31

12:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Oct 31

18:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sept 30

13:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sep 30

18:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31

* Entrance fee is 50 kn but if you already have a City Walls ticket or a Dubrovnik Card you can use it for free entrance ** Price for the City Walls entrance is an additional 200 KN. The entrance is free with Dubrovnik Card. *** All tours are in English apart from those indicated above with flags

MEETING POINT

Meeting Point for all tours is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain (located within the City Walls).

LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Doživljaj Mediterana d.o.o., Bartola Kašića 5, 20236 Mokošica, OIB 68762372382, IC: HR-AB-20-090011580 tel: +385 20 436 846, mob: +385 95 744 74 74, sales@dubrovnik-walking-tours.com, www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Top Summer Events 8

Dubrovnik Surroundings

You won’t be bored

The top gateways

The Neretva Delta

12

Dubrovnik County Map

42

Shopping

54

14

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

The valley of life

Restaurants Spicing things up

Coffee & Cakes 30 What a plesure

Nightlife

Arrival & Getting Around

60

Lost? Help is at hand

Dubrovnik Basics 32

Music to your ears

Sightseeing

42

62

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Maps & Street Register 36

Check out the highlights

Street Register City Map City Centre Map

63 64 66

Pigeons enjoying Poljana Paska Miličevića. The Large Onofrio’s Fountain, St. Saviour Church, and the Franciscan Church and Monastery can be seen in the background. Photo by Shutterstock.

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Summer 2019

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Foreword “Overtourism” has over the last twelve months become one of the favouritebuzz words of the international travel media. The idea that there is simply too much tourism nowadays and that locals can no longer go about their business is as old as the tourist industry itself, although it has gained added traction recently due to genuine fears that, in some places at least, the crowds are just too big.

A certain amount of hypocrisy is attached to media discussion of the problem, with articles about overtourism appearing in the same newspapers that promote the idea of the Mediterranean cruise as a legitimate lifestyle aspiration. And it’s the cruises that cause most of the problems in Dubrovnik, with cruise passengers bussed from their boats towards the Old Town where they create a bottleneck at Pile Gate, main entrance to Dubrovnik’s historic core.

Dubrovnik in summer is a hot, hectic place that requires a bit of patience, stoicism and forward planning if you are going to enjoy it to the full. The best times to enjoy the Old Town is first thing in the morning or late in the evening, when it feels like a vivacious summertime city rather than an exercise in physical endurance. And if you want to go up onto the walls, don’t leave it till id-morning, when queues can be dauntingly long. Above all, don’t treat the Old Town as the only show in town: take the seafront path from Lapad to BabinKuk, or explore the bustle of Gružharbour.

Dubrovnik has dealt with tourist crowds with a mixture of charm and good humour, and there is no reason why you shouldn’t do so too.

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Lee Murphy, Johathan Bousfield Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research Katarina Buljan Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Shutterstock, River Neretva estuary Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Top Summer Events

10.07 - 25.08 » 70th Dubrovnik Summer Festival

Few cultural events are associated with their home base quite so closely as the Dubrovnik Festival, a renowned cultural showcase which – famously – stages performances in ambient venues all over the historic city.

First held in 1950, the festival this year celebrates its 70th edition, cementing its role as Croatia’s foremost artistic flagship. With a programme that embraces theatre, orchestral music, opera and ballet, the festival as always brought top international performers to the city and delivered art of unimpeachably high standards. While not being an overtly avant-garde festival it has never shied away from experimentation, and the programme tries to strike a balance between the classical and the contemporary. Performances this year take place in the Rector’s Palace, Revelin fortress, Gradac Park and the university campus.

Lovrijenac Fortress sets the scene for Hamlet, the Shakespeare play with which it has long ben associated. First held at Lovrijenac in 1952, Hamlet became something of a symbol for the festival as a whole, programmed more often over the past 70 years than any other play - Derek Jacobi and Daniel Day-Lewis being among those who have played the lead role. This year it is directed

by Italian director Paolo Magelli, with craggy Dubrovnik heart-throb Frano Mašković in the title role. Projections by video-art wizard Ivan Marušić Klif will give the play a modicum of contemporary visual style. In a programme packed full of other highlights, St Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre, one of the finest ballet troupes in the world, will be performing beneath the leaning pines of Gradac Park. QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

Gala concert in front of St Blaise Church, Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives

Top Summer Events 03.05 - 15.10 » The Linđo Folk Ensemble

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr. Every Tuesday & Friday.

21.06 - 23.06 » Ana in The City

Croatian international cellist Ana Rucner is once again appearing on the first day of summer, June 21. She, along with Croatian opera singer Sandra Bagarić and pianist Darko Domitrović perform at 05:00 as they greet the first summer sunrise, attracting many locals and tourists. As part of the festival, two evening shows will be held by the ‘New Life - Theatre for the blind and visually impaired’. Qwww. anarucner.com.

22.06 - 05.07 » Midsummer scene Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet

Devotees to plays and most of all, a love story, mustn’t miss this fabulous tale with a modern twist. This version is also set in Verona but in the 1960s where two love-struck teens fall head over heels for each other. Yet, they are divided by their feuding families. How will it end? Come and see as this British cast and production give Shakespeare’s classic, another fictional finale! In addition, a handful of other drama and music events will be held. See the full programme at http://midsummer-scene.com.QK‑3, Lovrijenac For‑ tress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, www. midsummer-scene.com.

28.06 - 05.07 » The 12th International Opera Arias Festival ‘Tino Pattiera’

Devotees to opera music will adore the entire set up of this international festival which annually draws some of the greatest stars in the genre. The Rector’s Palace is a majestic setting for such an event dedicated to ‘Tino Pattiera’, a local world famous tenor who in the first part of the 20th century had sung at most of Europe’s major opera houses.

QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+38520) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

25.08 - 25.11 » Orlando

The knight statue you see in the centre of Luža Square is named Orlando and this year marks the 600th anniversary of its creation. This comprehensive exhibition depicts the historical framework of the 14th and 15th century of the Dubrovnik Republic in European political processes, the Orlando Pillar, its builders, the challenges of restoration, as well as Orlando in European, Croatian and Dubrovnik literary, art and music history. QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Top Summer Events COUNTY EVENTS 26.06, 29.06, 15.08 » Mljet’s Hidden Corners

Ethno culinary event that connects several manifestations of the same character into one and held exclusively in the old villages of the island. Local housewives use fresh ingredients to prepare and present local delicacies, brandies and wines.

There is live music, folklore, old photographs and crafts, and even some records playing. It’s as if time stops for a moment, and so let it be!Qwww.mljet.hr.

04.05 - 13.10 » Art Pavilion - Your Black Horizon

After its huge success at the Venetian Biennal, the T-BA21 foundation chose the rich and ancient island of Lopud as home to its modern Pavilion. This windowless pavilion presents a thin horizontal line of light, which endlessly runs around the dark given space.

Bear witness to how the light naturally changes its spectrum from sunrise to sunset.

Qwww.tba21.org.

27.06 - 30.06 » Kinookus - The Food Film Festival

The walled town of Ston is the venue for the 10th edition of Kinookus, a festival that brings film and food together with a busy programme of film screenings, culinary events and after-parties. The main focus of the festival is on the culture of food – what do we grow, how do we grow it, how do we preserve local traditions, and how can we eat well while preserving the ecology of the planet at

Your black horizon by Zoran Marinovic 2014

the same time. Ston itself is a great location (and not just because of its reputation for bringing together the best of the local wine and seafood) with many of the events taking place in the open air against a backdrop of historic buildings.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr.

jul & aug » Toast from the host

Pomena is the perfect setting for a wine and food event, where Pelješac wine makers and other manufacturers of Metković Tourist Board Archives

05.07 » Cipolijada

Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in the Neretva region.

During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held. The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Top Summer Events eco-products from the island of Mljet present their products. Held one Sunday in July and one in August, with Dalmatian music in the background, enjoy the sounds and flavours of Mljet.QMljet, www.mljet.hr.

17.07 » Jumping into the Neretva

A “jumping competition” that attracts a large number of viewers is held next to the Lučki most (harbour bridge) in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the young and the old. Special attention is paid to the “craziest jump” category.Qwww. tzmetkovic.hr.

27.07 » The Night of old Orebić

On this one night each year, the beautiful old town of Orebić turns even older, we’re talking centuries back! Its main promenade sees local residents dressed as captains, sailors, fisherman, blacksmiths and more... They display their old traditions, trades and crafts, whilst old photos of famous town captains grace the strolling walkway for all to see. There will be plenty of local delicacies on offer which though hard to pronounce, are easily eatable to any food lover; padšipanje, hroštule, muštule and more.QOrebić, Pelješac, www.visitorebic-croatia.hr.

10.08 » The Neretva boat (lađa) marathon

Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. maraton-ladja.hr.

31.08 - 14.09 » Korkyra Baroque Festival

Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can choose from concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the Spain, Netherlands, Italy, UK, Czech Republik and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style, come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!QKorčula, www. korkyrabaroque.com.

22.09 » Ston Wall Marathon

This unique marathon race takes place in the equally unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very own pace.Qwww.ston-wall-marathon.com. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Revelin Fortress Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Summer 2019

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The Neretva Delta As the coastal road approaches the NeretvaDelta from the north there’s a tourist association-sponsored sign hovering above the Magistrala. “The Valley of Life”, it says.

Looking down on the valley, with its lush green strips of cultivated land, it’s easy to see why. Formerly an extensive reedy swamp, it has largely been transformed into Croatia’s principal region for the cultivation of citrus fruits.

The delta remains primarily a wetland environment; the orchard areas are criss-crossed by irrigation channels, whiledensely-reeded areas of marshland encroachon the scene from the sides.

The delta remains an extraordinarily rich habitat for freshwater fauna and migrating birds, all of which are spectacularly showcased in the fabulous Natural History Mueum (Prirodoslovnimuzej) in the delta’s main town, Metković. Opened in 2016, the state-of-the-art museum retains many of the exhibits once displayed in the town’s former Ornithological Museum, a vast array of preserved birds that was said to bethe third-largest such collection in Europe. The new museum injects a contemporary sense of style into the old-school stuffed-birdnature of the historic collection,withtouch-screen information, sound effects(including push-button birdsong), and in one show-stopping touch, an airport-style arrivals board listing the incoming flights of migrating birds.

Right up until the modern era the Neretva Delta was one vast swampland, a boggy expanse cut through by traversable waterways. The excavation of these waterways was extraordinarily physically demanding, a backbreaking job carried out by locals half-submerged in water – no wonder that rheumatic and lung complaints were endemic among the delta’s population. The sludge dredged up from the swamp bottom was piled up to create strips of cultivable land, although it wasn’t until the 20th century that the orchard agriculture for which the Delta is known really took off. For centuries before that, most of the delta’s inhabitants practiced the hillside terrace farming common to the whole of the Dalmatian seaboard.

Due to its status as a crossing point between coastal and inland trade routes, the delta was always a centre of civilization. The Roman city of Narona, now the village of Vid 6km north of Metković, is the site of an impressive modern museum that is one of Dubrovnik County’s most compelling historical attractions. In the middle ages the Neretva princes were a regional power to be reckoned with, harassing Venetian shipping with their manoeverable boats and then disappearing back behind their swamps whenever the enemy threatened a counter-attack.

The swamplands have always provided a happy home for legions of eels and frogs, and it was these creatures that traditionally formed the delta’s staple diet. Frogs were eaten in any number of ways; eels were frequently saltcured rather like pršut and stacked in large oak barrels, which were then exported throughout the Mediterranean as a delicacy. The 20th century decline of the swamp and the growing focus on fruit-growing has led to a shrinking of the habitat for frogs and eels, and a change in the lo12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

cal diet – nowadays the swamp creatures are considered delicacies rather than daily staples.

Frogs and eels are still the main ingredients of the local brudet; a tangy, highly-spiced stew rich in tomatoes and paprika. Brudet is at its best in checked-tablecloth taverns such as KonobaVrilo in the village of Prud, the kind of place that sticks religiously to the regional culinary repertoire, but still earns enough culinary kudos to feature in GaultMillau and other gastro-guides. However they are prepared, frogs are small-boned creatures and are rather difficult to at with a knife and fork. You’ll be using your fingers sooner or later.

TheNeretva delta’s channels were traditionally navigated by means of a lađa, a long shallow boat equipped with either sail or oars; or a much smaller trupa, a one-man rowing boat ideal for zipping around on fishing trips. A heavily-ladenlađacould also be dragged by chain – a man would sit in the boat next to the tiller while a team of women on the riverbank dragged it along.

Nowadays these traditional craft are remembered in the Lađa Marathon (Maratonlađa), a rowing racein traditional dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

The Neretva Delta The Neretva still provides a permanent or temporary home to over 250 species of resident or migratory birds.

It’s a hugely rewarding destination for birdwatchers, especially in winter when scoters, hen harriers, teals and blackheaded gulls make the delta their home.

The Neretva swamps also provided the ideal breeding grounds for mosquitos, and were notoriously malarial.

Ancient sources suggest that the Greek citizens of Korčula were forbidden from visiting the Neretva Delta in summer for fear that they would come back feeling feverish.Fear of malaria reigned right up until the 20th century, when Prussian Carp were introduced to eat the mosquitos’eggs.

Photo by Andrija Carli, Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

boats held on the second Saturday of August ever since 1998. Starting in Metković and ending in the port of Ploče at the Neretva’s mouth, the contest has grown into a huge event for spectators and participants alike, attracting teams from all over Croatia.

Nowadays tourists can explore the waterways of the delta on photo-safari trips in covered boats powered by outboard motors rather than oars or chains. These are very often the best way of getting up close to the flora and fauna of those stretches of swamp that still survive.

The richness of the delta is not just a matter of squelchy treats like frogs and eels. It is also the natural home of Iris Illyrica, the wild iris famous for its fragrance that was exported all over the ancient Mediterranean as a highly valued perfume. The delta was also one of the main feeding grounds of the Dalmatian Pelican, first spotted and classified here in the 19th century. This migrating species is no longer seen in the Neretva because of the gradual shrinking of the swamp, and nowadays frequents the marshy stretches of the lower Danube in Bulgaria and Romania. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

It was the Austrians (who ruled over Dalmatia from 1815 to 1918) who regulated the flow of the river, making landreclamation easier and slowly transforming the Delta into the perfect place for the cultivation of orchard fruits. Nowadays the region is famous for its mandarins, which appear in markets all over Croatia every autumn. It’s said that the first mandarins arrived in the 1930s, brought on one of the Japanese cargo boats that called at the port of Metković to pick up deliveries of wheat. Experimental plantings revealed that the mandarin was ideally suited to local conditions, and the fruit became a mainstay of the local economy. The local microclimate has a lot to do with the fruit’ssuccess: the winter temperature rarely drops below freezing (and when it does so it hardly ever remains below freezing for more than 48 hours, a time scale that is crucial for particular citrus fruits). Numerous strains of mandarin have been introduced in order to lengthen the harvesting season – hardier varieties don’t have to be picked until the late autumn. Harvesting the fruits is a labour-intensive job that involves a certain amount of care - the mandarins have to be cut individually from the branch to avoid bruising. Coming in the wake of the mandarin have been lemons, kiwi, kumquat and even bananas – although it’s the mandarin for which the delta, and especially the mandarin-town of Opuzen midway between Metković and Ploče, remains famous.

The uniqueness of the valley as a rich agricultural zone is to a certain extent preserved by the fact that there is no big tourist resort near the river’s mouth; there is instead the port city of Ploče, with its skyline of dockside cranes, an interesting place for many reasons but one that is unlikely to detain tourists on their way south.

One potential threat to the delta’s fruit-growing destiny comes from the construction of hydro-power stations higher up the valley in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Water flow has already been restricted by the construction of upriver dams, and the relative lack of fresh water coming down the valley means that salt water from the sea stretches further and further up the river. It is fresh water, not salt water that is needed to irrigate the delta’s fruit trees, and further changes to the delicate natural balance may well put the Valley of Life at risk.

Written by Jonathan Bousfield Summer 2019

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Restaurants Croatian Bistro Glorijet Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:0024:00; closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). A­P­G­T­U­6­W Bistro Tavulin With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of traditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have you rushing for the cash machine. The octopus ragout with beans and polenta (150Kn) is something of a signature dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish and slow cooked veal are among the other regular standouts, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 190kn).

P­G­B­J­6­W ­i Dubrovnik Occupying an elegant roof terrace in an Old Town alleyway that is by no means busy with tourists, this Michelin-listed establishment is one of the city’s finest places for an extravagant meal. It is also quite expensive, but the creativity of the cuisine and the attention-to-detail service make it more than worthwhile. Meat and fish mains are exquisitely inventive and are matched by the starters and sweets – it’s well worth coming ready to eat several courses or splash out on one of the many-course tasting menues. Superb all round.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-) 099 258 58 71, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

July & August open 06:00 - 24:00. (180-450 kn). A­G­ T­U­B­W Kavana Teatar Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.

This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 08:0024:00. (35 - 130kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­V­6­W Komin The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurantkomin.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (90 - 180kn). A­P­G­ T­B­L­6­W 14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Kopun Nestling under gnarled trees near the Jesuit Church Kopun has carved out an enviable reputation as a restaurant that does traditional and contemporary at the same time. They have reinvented dishes like kopun (the roast capon from which the restaurant gets its name) and šporkimakaruli (an old-school Dubrovnik dish featuring tubes of pasta with goulash) alongside a wealth of delicate pastas, risottos and salads. Quality food, smooth service, and the view isn’t bad either.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www. restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (80 - 250kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Mimoza In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimozadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 - 120kn).

A­P­G­T­B­E­S­6­W ­i Orhan Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:0023:30. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Tramuntana This trendy restaurant has a wonderful sea view, situated on the waterfront over in Babin Kuk. Situated well away from the insane crowds in the Old Town of Dubrovnik, here you can experience the sort of serene nature you might otherwise only see in the movies. Tramuntana is one of the best places on the peninsula to try any number of fish dishes and other traditional, expanded upon Dalmatian food such as veal medallions in truffle sauce and linguini with beefsteak and truffle sauce (they do like their truffles!). Make sure to have some carob cake. QNika i Meda Pucića 13, tel. (+ 385- 20) 49 42 00, www.restaurant-tramuntana. com. Open 18:00-23:00. (145 - 200kn). A­P­W

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Restaurants Ethnic Mex Cantina Bona Fide Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 19. Open 08:00-01:00. (50 - 140kn) €€. A­P­G­X­T­ U­B­S­J­6­W Shizuku Japanese Cuisine Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik!

Located in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes.

To quench your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake.

A popular dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to call ahead for a reservation.QH‑2, Kneza Doma‑ goja 1F, tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, www.facebook.com/ ShizukuDubrovnik. Open 17:00-24:00; closed Mon. (75 - 110kn). A­P­G­B­W Taj Mahal Although the name might make you think of India this is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00-24:00.

(90 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­6­W Takenoko Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japanese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the ambiance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en. Open 18:00-23:30.

(87 - 400kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W­K

International Gil’s Little Bistro ‘Let’s cut in front of you!’ This tiny bistro offers a unique culinary experience in which you pick your slice of meat before it’s prepared. A new concept to restaurants in this beautiful historic city. The menu offers a wide variety of steaks, along with truffle based dishes and fresh local oysters from the nearby city, Ston. The meals are a bit pricey,

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Restaurants

but worth it for a heavenly cuisine experience.QC‑2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 68/(+385-) 098 196 21 36, www.gils.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (90 - 240kn).

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by tourists and locals alike.QKardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.restaurant-more.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (160 - 220kn). A­P­W

Lucin Kantun Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lucin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach which means that you can order several small plates of different things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the approach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley. QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:30 22:00. (38 - 160kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W

Pantarul Located near a road junction in the residential part of Lapad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experimentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Pantarul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should always reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (84 - 230kn). A­P­G­T­S­L­W

More Dubrovnik is more than just a tourist hotspot, it’s also a great place to find great food. Here you can enjoy a wide range of menus, from local to regional to international.

Crawfish, salmon, all the way down to lamb, pork, veal, beefsteak! More has more of everything. The wine list is extensive, featuring many names you’ll already be familiar with. Pošip, Plavac, sourced from local vineyards with evergrowing reputation, and a dozen malvazijas and chardonnays that would take paragraphs alone. For dessert, the coconut mousse with white chocolate is well regarded

Peppers Eatery Occupying a cute stone house and walled courtyard right opposite Lapad’s new yachting marina, Peppers offers a broad range of local and international fare in a relaxing bar-bistro environment. The list of starters includes the kind of global fare (hummus, bruschettas, chicken satay) that works well as a light lunch; while the mains revolve grilled steak, tuna and lamb choices, alongside the odd novelty such as the duck burger. Desserts are excellent and Peppers also works well as a drinks bar, with British summertime staples like Pimms and lemonade on offer as

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Summer 2019

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Restaurants well as the local tipple.QLapadska obala 20, tel. (+38520) 48 75 78, www.pepperseatery.com. Open 12:0015:00,18:00-23:00. (70- 190kn). A­P­B­S­W

you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­W

Porat Restaurant & Bar Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby market;although the accompanying sauces and spices may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00–23:00. (70 - 150kn).

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Konoba

Stara loza One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a recommendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s finedining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of European classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), beautifully prepared and presented. The starters involve a few notable adventures in global fusion, and the dessert list is second to none. For a total blow-out, the multi-course tasting menus are well-worth considering. There are great views from the indoor part of the restaurant and the rooftop terrace is quite simply stunning – be sure to reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www.prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00-22:00. (100 - 210 kn). A­P­G­B­J­W ­i Taverna Otto This charming little taverne has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled fish fillet and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose,

Breakfast Orlando A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30-23:00. (65 - 120kn). A­B­J­W Pupica Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A­P­ G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W ­i i 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dalmatino Dubrovnik After several years building up a reputation in the alleys south of StradunDalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street.

The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you should try is žrnovskimakaruli, the tubular pasta from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.

QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00.

(70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W Konoba Jezuite With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Jesuit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+38520) 30 10 14, www.dubrovnikrestaurant.com/. Open 08:00-23:00. (60 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i Pjatanca Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary – real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell.QL‑5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-) 098 938 00 23. Open 09:00-24:00. (50 - 180kn). A­G­X­T­B­W Pupo Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of wellprepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www.pupodubrovnik. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). A­G­X­T­U­ B­S­J­W­K Rozario On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, www.konoba-rozario.hr/contact.html. Open 11:0023:00. (90 - 175kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­J ­i dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Mediterranean Above 5 Restaurant Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com.

Open 08:00-22:00. (200 - 250kn). A­T­B­J­W ­i Amfora While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (120 250 kn). A­P­G­X­B­W Aquarius Location, location! Aquarius is the perfection location for a restaurant as it is tucked away in a courtyard off the old town walls. It even offers a great view of the cable-car and surrounding hills as you can sit out on the open garden terrace. Food wise, Aquarius has a solid seafood offer which includes various sized platters; they also have pastas, anti-pastas and grilled meals. The assortment of local wines adds to the homely feel of this eatery with attentive staff on hand. QMata Vodopića 4, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, www.hotel-aquarius.net.

Banje Beach Restaurant Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a predominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cocktails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.

Open 10:00-24:00. (60 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­J­W Casa The restaurant, which is downstairs from Villa Wolf, is relatively cheap given the quality of hotel attached, and is very straightforward and entirely Mediterranean in content. It is situated at the beginning of a must-walk path, trailing the coastline around the south-west of the city. The view 20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

from the restaurant’s terrace is serene, even allowing for a few jet-skis, and while everything is but a short walk away the area is quite peaceful and relaxed.QG‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 87 10, www.restaurant-casa. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­L­W Culto Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds.

Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (70 - 150kn). A­P­T­B­L­W Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Café Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants. com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­ U­B­W ­i Gradska kavana Arsenal In real-estate they say that location is important and this is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from breakfast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establishment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 08:00-22:00.

(98 - 178kn). A­P­G­B­J Gusta me Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric.

The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:30-24:00.

(70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W Summer 2019

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Restaurants Klarisa There are few places in Dubrovnik that have such a grand setting and remain affordable at the same time. With tables spread across the awesome arcaded courtyard of the former Convent of St Claire, Klarisa is well suited to a large group meal or an intimate dinner for two. The menu is a broad-based affair that runs from pizzas to fillet steaks, so you are sure to find something for everyone. Traditional Dubrovnik desserts like rožata and orange and almond cake are well worth sticking around for. QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisadubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-24:00. (150 - 220kn).

A­P­G­X­T­U­B­I­E­J­6­W Komarda A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL‑2, Ulica Frane Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, www. restaurant-komarda.com/. Open 09:00-24:00. (60 150kn). A­P­X­T­B­W Lacroma On old wooden shack dating back to the Austro-Hungarian period was restored to create this sleek,designconscious restaurant that looks out on the lush greenery of Lokrum, the nature-reserve island just south of the city. Sea bass, tuna steak and some excellent steaks are the main stars of the menu the Croatia-wide wine list will take quite some getting through. QLokrum island, tel. (+385-) 098 345 085, www.lacroma.restaurant/index. html. Open 09:00-20:00. (100 - 200kn). A­T­B­W LAJK Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.

Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads, bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.lajkrestaurant-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00-14:0018:0022:00. (120-260kn). A­T­B­6­W Mezzanave Restaurant & Bar If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (70 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­V­ L­6­W 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Nautika The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.

Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00-24:00. (510 - 900kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W Orka Mediterranean Cuisine Lapad’sharbour-facing shore is enjoying something of a boom thanks to the construction of the new marina, and Orka is another fine excuse to head out that way. Seafood and pasta dishes are served in an elegant first-floor dining room (think bare stone walls, wooden beams, rack upon rack of wine and a fish tank), and there’s a secluded outdoor terrace at the back. Fresh fish and seafood stews are the standouts; everything is neatly presented and the desserts are a knock-out.

QH‑2, Lapadska obala 11, tel. (+385-) 099 690 33 34, www.orka-restaurant.com/. Open 08:00-23:00. (180 290kn). A­P ­B ­W ­i Panorama Restaurant & Bar Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering absolutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restaurant that maintains high standards of food and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reservation. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (up‑ per station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00-17:00.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(100 - 182kn). A­P ­G­X ­B­W Posat Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat has been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for decades – although it is in recent years that it has been elevated to the fine dining league. The place prides itself on fresh fish, crabs and prawns; this is one place where it might be worth splashing out on the grilled fresh catch.

Diners are rewarded with magnificent views of Dubrovnik’s walls, perfect for an evening of relaxed culinary indulgence.QK‑3, Uz posat 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94, www.posat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (170 270kn). A­P­G­B­J

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Restaurants What’s going on? facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Restaurant Horizont This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 83 68, www.restauranthorizont.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (150 - 200kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­S­L­W Sesame Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main!QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (60-200 kn).

A­P­T­B­S­J­6­W Vapor A Micheline Guide Restaurant (recommended by Michelin guide for the third year in a row). For classy Mediterranean food in a suave but soothing environment there are few better places than Vapor, just below the lobby area of the newley refurbished Bellevue Hotel. It commands superb views of neighbouring cliffs and the open sea – and if you have your heart set on one of the outside tables, be sure to make a reservation. The menu applies just the right amount of creativity to classic local ingredients, with delicate risottos, white fish in delectable sauces, and exquisite desserts among the many highlights. Service is as smooth and courteous as you would expect.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00-15:00,18:30-23:00. (105 950kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­E­L­W­

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Restaurants

Pizza&Pasta Mea Culpa Long-standing old-town pizzeria that has kept its standards high, with tables filling a broad alley that runs alongside an open-air cinema. Mea Culpa’s thin-crust pies come in a range of traditional flavours as well as modern improvisations – the kebab pizza might appeal to some, while the Mea Culpa pizza goes for lashings of Gorgonzola cheese. There is also the (nowadays inevitable) Nutella pizza, and a vegetarian lasagne for those who need to give the meat a rest. QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com. Open 10:00-23:00.

(70 - 210kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W

Tabasco The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open 09:30-23:00. From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. A­P­G­ X­T­B­S­V­W

Pasta Lab Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-02:00. (3875 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W

Trattoria Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset Beach complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building houses a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serving traditional-style pizzas, salads, pastas and grill specialities. It’s an easygoing family friendly restaurant blending authentic local fresh foods hand selected by the chef.

There’s an adjoining café-patisserie with some rather fine cakes. Live entertainment throughout the summer!QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sbd.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (40 110kn). A­P­T­U­B­S­L­W

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Restaurants Seafood Barba Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 69kn).

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staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:0023:00. (28 - 135kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W

Street Food

Fish Restaurant Proto Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (150 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­W

Bistro 49 This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste…

Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž harbour, a major transit point. The menu personifies everything from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experience at Bistro 49.QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 38. Open 08:00-23:00. A­B­V­W

Kamenice Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00-22:00. From July Open 08:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 140kn). A­U­B­J

Buffet Škola A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:00-24:00.

(26 - 30kn). N­P­G­U­B­S­J­W

Levanat This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:0024:00. (150 - 780kn). A­P­G­X­B­W

Burger Tiger This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-02:00. (44-85kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­S­J­W

Orsan The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurantorsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i

Tutto Bene A fast food joint with several branches throughout the city, Tutto Bene goes about things with a bit of class and attention to detail. The tortillas and sandwiches come in a few local-ingredient versions, and there are some out-ofthe-ordinary burgers too: Piggy Black contains Slavonian pork, and there is a lamb version too.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00-24:00. (30 - 85kn). A­U­J­W

Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant

Read more reviews online: dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Restaurants Vegetarian Nishta Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. (58 - 108kn). A­G­X­B­S­J­W

Out of town Adio Mare Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-23:00. (90 - 180kn).

A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W Bistro Izvor The source of the Ombla river, which emerges from the bottom of a cliff at the eastern end of the Rijeka Dubrovačka fjord, has been a popular local beauty spot for years – and yet it is still off the radar for most tourists.

Situated on a bluff above the river, Bistro Izvor serves an enticing mix of Adriatic-Asian fusion fare, backed up by a robust list of boutique beers. The outdoor terrace, near the water’s edge, is a great place to cool off. Walk off your meal with a riverside stroll to the nearby yachting marina at Komolac. QRožat Gornji 1a, tel. (+385-) 095 396 07 77.

Open 11:00-24:00. (90-140kn).

Bota Šare Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.

Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/ (+385-) 091 175 44 79, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:0020:00/21:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W Bugenvila in Cavtat A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (90 370kn). A­T­B­L­W D’Oro Bar&Grill Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies Mediterranean food with its local offer. One can expect fresh seafood, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with olives, prosciutto, cheese etc. The beers and wines are refreshingly chilled, and probably best of all is the location; a covered terrace right on the beachfront overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a place to chill and be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 85 25 85.

Open 11:00-23:00. (90-160kn). A­B­W Kapetanova kuća Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, www.ostrea.hr. Open 09:00 23:00. (80 - 125kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Konoba Koraćeva kuća Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (100 200kn). A­T­B­L­6­W Leut One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (70 - 250kn).

A­P­G­U­B­W Leut Fancy a bite, Leut is a fine-dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel which dines guests both indoors and outdoors as it has lovely garden and sea views for those warm evenings. Leut serves genuine local and international delicacies and the spread they put on for breakfast is grandiose. With an impressive list of premium wines from Croatia and beyond, one can really feel at home here with the world at your plate. QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana 17 (Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel), Srebreno, tel. (+385-20) 60 15 00, www.dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr.

Open 06:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Lokal - One Suite Hotel As part of the One Suite Hotel in Mlini, Lokal is a bar/cafe that oozes class and creativity intertwined. From 7:00 to 12:00 they offer top quality breakfast and brunch. The menu is totally based on organic and seasonal ingredients form local producers. There is gluten free to vegetarian dishes, fresh juices, organic teas, homebrewed coffee, croissants; eggs prepped to your choice, pancakes and other delights. And if you’re not peckish, simply chill in the bar with beverages and cocktails from this top notch establishment! QŠetalište dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, Mlini, tel. (+385 - 20) 22 22 22, www.onesuitehotel.com. Open 07:00-24:00.

National restaurant Konavoski dvori Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 12:0024:00. (100 - 130kn). A­G­X­B­L­W Obala There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood terrifacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

tory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes.

Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www.obalalopud.com. Open 10:00 24:00. From November Closed. (150 - 300kn). A­P­ G­X ­B ­W Orsan Gverović This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (110 - 200kn).

A­G­X­B­L­6­W Zure If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place.

The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12. Open 18:00-24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­G ­X ­U ­B­ 6­W Summer 2019

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Coffee & Cakes Cakes Dolce Vita This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun.

QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/ (+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00-22:00. N­P­B Mala truba Dubbed by locals as one of the best places to get a nibble, the ‘Mala truba patisserie’ (meaning ‘little trumpet’) is a cute little store filled with delicious pastries, freshly baked bread, sandwiches, cakes, tarts and a world of eatable delights. Lucija Tomašić, a cake master who studied at the prestigious school Le Cordon Bleu in London uses fresh local ingredients and attention to detail is seen in all her crafty foods. The concept is ‘good to go’ so you’ll take your supplies out to eat! QI‑2, Vuk‑ ovarska 22 (Mercante Centar). Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Closed May 25 - June 10. N Pastry & Cocktail bar Slatki Kantun Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding bow, Slatki Kantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, although it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium.

With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sunset glinting off the waves.QF‑2, Nike i Meda Pucića, 13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.hotel-more.hr.

Open 10:00-18:00. A­P­B­W­C Peppino’s Ice Cream Ice cream is getting better in Dubrovnik and Peppino’s is one of the reasons why, with a great range of creamy flavours (from crowd-pleasing Ferrero Rocher to more niche flavours like pistaccio an hazelnut) sold from a small shop right behind the Stradun. It’s available in cornets or tubs at 15kn per scoop. QC‑3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-) 091 459 00 02, www.peppinos.premis. hr. Open 11:00-23:00. N­W Pupica Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com.

Open 07:00 - 20:00. From May Open 07:00 - 22:00.

A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W­ 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Coffee Café Festival This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.

QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www.cafefestival. com. Open 07:00-02:00. A­PGXTB­6­W Cave Bar More This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. A­W Cele Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun, within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result.

It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas, burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu if you’re hungry. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-02:00. (60 130kn). A­B­S­J­W ­i Cogito Coffee Shop In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge.QD‑4, Stajeva 5, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00-19:00. A Libertina (Lući) Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G­X­B­6­W Soul Caffe This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open 08:00-02:00.

Open from April 20. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­J­6­W ­i dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Sunset Beach Bar Archives

Bars Buža What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00 or according to weather conditions. X­B Glam Beer Therapy Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00-02:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W Rock Caffe Exit This legendary old-town bar draws loyal locals throughout the winter and all-sorts in summer. It consists of a long first-floor room and doesn’t have any outside terrace, giving it the intimate but smoky feel of a real big-city bar.

The walls are covered with album covers and pop-star photos, while Rock with a capital R (mostly heavy rather than indy) blasts out of the speakers. Refresh yourself with Pan pivo on tap and a few craft beers in the fridge.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­E­J­W 32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Imperial Bar & Lounge Reflagged as Hilton in 2005, the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik has preserved its 19th century architectural features and façade. Spring 2018 renovation, was used as an opportunity to rebrand hotel’s bar to The Imperial Bar & Lounge preserving hotels rich heritage and combining it with modern comforts and luxuries. The Imperial Bar & Lounge has become one of the city’s best loved meeting spots and is a place to enjoy expertly crafted contemporary, historic and signature cocktails, such as Milk Punch.QUlica Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com.

Open 08:00-24:00. A­P­B­W

Clubs Banje Beach Night Club The Banje Beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00-04:00. A­PBW Culture Club Revelin Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Rev‑ elin), www.clubrevelin.com. Open 23:00 - 06:00. From October 20 Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A­P­W Lazareti These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

Sunset Beach Bar The Beach Bar is part of the Sunset Beach complex, located directly by the sea and it is an ideal place to relax for coffee or juice, through to cocktails or beer. If you are not directly within the beach bar, the waiter will still be able to take your order at any of the sunbed or cabanas areas or deck chairs which you can rent for either half or full day. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Sunset Beach, Lapad Bay), www.sbd.hr. Open 08:00-24:00.

Pubs Dubrovnik Beer Company Tap Room Opened in spring 2018, the Dubrovnik Beer Company’s tap room occupies the front end of the industrial unit where they actually brew the beer, but still manages to feel like a convivial and welcoming bar. Their own excellent beers (including lager-like Maestral, the Pale Ale-ishFortunal and Grego

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stout) are all available on tap, along with guest beers from other independent brewers. It’s well off the tourist beaten path and well worth the trip. QObala Pape Ivana Pavla II 15, tel. (+385-) 095 901 4054, www.dubrovackapivovara. hr. Open 19:00-01:00; closed Sat, Sun. Gaffe Pub For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. From September Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W Irish Pub Karaka Located a stone’s throw from the Stradun, this alien presence in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish term Craic; the name couldn’t have been better chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. Open 09:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

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Sightseeing Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

Lokrum Island You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385) 099 254 67 77/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further informa‑ tion. A return ticket with entry to Nature Reserve costs 150kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 25kn.

Stradun, Placa When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque build36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.

The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:30. August 1 - September 14 Open 08:00 - 18:30. September 15 - 30 Open 08:00 - 18:00.

Admission 200/50 kn.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15 kn.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

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Sightseeing can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults, and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu‑ seum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress ar‑ chaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pu‑ litika Gallery and Pulitika Studio. J

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

Museums Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej Dubrovnik) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Pal‑ ace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.

QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus. hr. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Tue. June 15 - September 15 open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket cost‑ 38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo‑ logical exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

Homeland War Museum The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.

QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 08:00-21:00. Admis‑ sion 30kn. Children under 12 free.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Mon. June 15 - September 15 open 09:00 - 20:00; closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑ tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.

QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. Unified tick‑ et costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu‑ seum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress ar‑ chaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pu‑ litika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

Red History Museum The social history of Yugoslavia 1945-1991 is a source of increasing interest to visitors and this new venture, housed in a former factory near the port, presents the answers to many of their questions. Mixing dutiful historical explanations with a wealth of exhibits drawn from daily life, the display begins by presenting a history of communism bedubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

fore going on to explain why Yugoslavian communism, led

by Josip Broz Tito, broke away from the Soviet model and developed a path of its own. The sections on popular culture are really fascinating with a colourful array of books, magazines, pop stars and pin-ups. The museum is fair in its treatment of the subject, touching on the dark side of the repressive state and dealing with the reasons for Yugoslavia’s demise.QH‑1, Sv.Križa 3, www.redhistorymuseum. com. Open 09:00-22:00. 50kn.

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www. muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00-20:30; closed Mon. July - August 31 open 09:00 - 22:00; Mon 10:00 - 18:00.

Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑ elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio. J The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 09:00-15:00. Admission 50kn.

What’s going on? facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019

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Sightseeing Galleries The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for stu‑ dents and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Mar‑ itime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum,Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life,

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Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons.

The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Ad‑ mission free. From May admission 25kn.

War Photo Limited A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00-22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

Landmarks Dubrovnik Aquarium (Akvarij Dubrovnik) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere,

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 19:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. September 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 60/20 kn.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.

Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Top Sights Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče.

Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the bestloved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Buko-

Photo by Meha, Mljet Tourist Board Archives

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vac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.

An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www. kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Admission 30kn.

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKonavle.

Mljet National Park & Odysseu’s Cave Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native ecosystem in the Adriatic.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.QPristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www. np-mljet.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Ad‑ mission 125/70kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings Narona Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej Narona) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+38520) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

Sokol tower (Sokol Grad) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Ko‑ navle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Tickets 70/30 kn.

Metković Natural History Museum, Metković Tourist Board Archives

Ston Saltworks (Solana Ston) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston.

Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 15kn. Guided tours 22.5 kn per person.

The Račić Mausoleum (Mauzolej obitelji Račić) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, www. migk.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/15kn.

The Walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Metković Natural History Museum Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum. The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+38520) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr. Open 09:00 - 16.00; Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eyepopping claim was probably intended as an attentiongrabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/(+385-20) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Islands Korčula K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, s tarting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

Korčula Tourist Board QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Remote bay with old stone houses and old fishing boat on the island of Lastovo, photo by Shutterstock

so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand.

Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Mljet With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.

The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Mljet Tourist Board QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

The Elafiti Islands Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

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Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

North of Dubrovnik The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 10 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Metković Tourist Board QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat.

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it.

Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will hardly be long enough.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Orebić Tourist Board QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Ston Tourist Board QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 19:00.

Slano Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers.

The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

Dubrovačko primorje Tourist Board QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also

Konavle Tourist Board Archives

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a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

Arboretum Trsteno QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn.

Konavle

South of Dubrovnik Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evidence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhabited the region before them is still visible. In the village of Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to the pagan god Mithras.

In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, notably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.

Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing fortress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and Roman fortifications.

Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.

You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.

Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent hotels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.

Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay away from the crowds.

Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alternative to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food just as people have made at home for generations, plucked fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying something of a revival.

With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recreational activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist train through the Konavle vineyards.

At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spectacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the 52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully displayed, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir.

To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your fingertips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and wonderful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

Tourist Board of Konavle QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 20:00. Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Shopping Antiques Antiques Tezoro Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

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Art galleries AR Bastion A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00-15:00. A Artur A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings

by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired by episodes and stories from the history of the republic.

QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

A Homa Gallery A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress

your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 399 16 85, www.jadranka-munitic.com. Open 10:00-22:00. N Klarisa Gallery Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A Luna+Sol Art Gallery Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contemporary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewellery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale.

In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that they also organise transport and delivery worldwide.

QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www. lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A Romana atelier Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.

Open 10:00-14:00,17:00-19:00. A Talir Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+38520) 32 32 93. Open 10:00-20:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

A Workshop Be Craft This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.

QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A

Chic & Cheerful Break Time - Nautical Bracelets For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

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Shopping Cvijet by Kike For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Life According to Kawa Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers and covers pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries.QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 01 45. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Cigar Shop La Casa del Habano The world’s only La Casa del Habano situated on the beach, with a wide selection of premium Cuban cigars and pipes, lighters, humidors, cigar accessories and an admirable range of exclusive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a wide selection of men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for you.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 60, www.havana-cigar-shop.com/ la-casa-del-habano-dubrovnik. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Dubrovačka kuća A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.

QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www.gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/ gligora-trgovina-dubrovnik. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

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DUTY FREE SHOP You can fly with all you buy!

www.airport-dubrovnik.hr T +385 (20) 773-100

Shopping

Kraš The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00-21:00. A Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalma‑ tinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 07:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Jewellery & accessories Clara Stones Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30-19:00. A­J Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www. croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Dubrovnik Treasures Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece 58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Križek This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Namfleg Watches and Jewelry A boutique specializing in cloisonné pieces made up of delicate silver compartments filled with vividly-coloured enamel which is fired, polished and plated to a vivid lustre. Jewelry is available in a choice of designs and colour schemes, while the watches with enamelled faces are simply stunning.QB‑2, Đorđićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-) 091 590 26 20, www.namfleg.com. Open 09:00-22:00. A­J

Souvenirs Duty Free Shop One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

Museum Shop One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/ muzejska-prodavaonica. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Jewelry with character Diana Voytenko - Owner DIYP: Could you tell us more about Namfleg Watches and Jewellery?

Diana: Namfleg is the continuation of the tradition of the famous jeweller Fabergé. The concept was developed in the same great country, Russia, and grew into an international brand based in Zürich. The inspiration which started with antique enamelled watches gave rise to the brand with everything you see in our shops today. The greater part is produced in Russia, and the watches in Switzerland.

Some of the collection is made onsite in the countries where our shops are located.

DIYP: What makes Namfleg jewellery and watches special?

Diana: Enamelled jewellery has a lifetime guarantee. Each piece is a work of art whose creation by hand requires a special kind of experience. The watches’ handmade dials are made in strictly limited quantities. We are unique and special in the world for creating dials from Florentine mosaic. They are made from a great many tiny, thin pieces of stone joined together to create a unique picture that’s hard to describe in words. You have to see it, to hold it in your hands. The watch radiates the energy of beauty and distinctiveness.

DIYP: What would you highlight from the Spring / Summer 2019 collection of jewellery and watches?

Diana: All of the collections are beautiful and special. It’s impossible to highlight anything in particular. There are so many designs that everyone can find a piece to fall in love with.

DIYP: What awaits us in the Autumn collection, anything new?

Diana: I am particularly fond of the mother and child collection because I created it. My idea was to create the ideal gift for every woman during her pregnancy because it holds the miracle of the life she is creating. I created the ideal gift for that time –a two-part pendant with one part representing the mother and the other the child. Once the child has been born the mother can remove the little tabwhich says “Place picture here” and can put it on the child’s cot or pram. In this way she gives some of her energy to, connects with and protects her child. This is an ideal gift for any woman, particularly expectant mothers and mothers with small children. This is something which radiates the miracle of love. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around Arriving by boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V Line Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00.

Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 35 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet May 27 - October 6. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

Arriving by bus The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.kolodvor.hr. Open 05:30-22:30.

Arriving by car For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

Arriving by plane The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.

Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

Arriving by train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrowgauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to Split (services from Zagreb) before continuing their journey by bus. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. 30kn daily ticket is available only at Libertas sales points and is valid 24 hours after activation. Out-oftown routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr Libertas QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

Taxi There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

Towed away If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

Travel agencies Gulliver travel Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A Korkyra QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. September Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Vivado Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Tourist Information Centres

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

Gruž QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, From July Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Lapad QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Lopud QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 19:00, closed Fri. From July Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

Pile QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From July Open 08:00 - 22:00. Šipan QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Tue. From July Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, closed Tue. Zaton QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

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Dubrovnik Basics Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 08:00 - 22:00.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

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Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

national holidays 2019 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 21 Easter April 22 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 20 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Street register A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2 Brsalje A-2 Brsečinska I-2 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Buža D-1 Cavtatska K-2 Celestina Medovića B-2 Crijevićeva C-4 Cvijete Zuzorić C-3 Čubranovićeva B-2 Ćilipska I-2 Ćira Carića G-2 D. Pulića A-1 Dalmatinska H-2 Dante Alighieria J-3 Dinka Ranjine C-3 Dolska H-1 Dr. A. Šercera H-2 Dr. V. Mačeka I-2 Dračasta K-2 Dropčeva C-2 Državna cesta D-8 Dubravkina G-2 Dunavska G-2/3 Džamija C-3 Đorđićeva B-2 Đura Baljevića D-4 Đura Basaričeka I-1 E. Kumičića H-2 F. Kolumbića H-2 F. Prešerna I-2 F. Supila L-2 Ferićeva B-3 Flore Jakšić G-2 G. Rajčevića I-2/3 Garište B-2 Getaldićeva B-2

Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius Restaurant Levanat

Merit Cas

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City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

sino

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Dubravka

66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock CafĂŠ

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

Download the Dubrovnik Card brochure here

Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides No charge for children up to 7 y.o.

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

www.dubrovnikcard.com