Zagreb In Your Pocket No69

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB December 2012-January 2013

Winter Wonder

Pop open the champagne with fairs, concerts and New Year cheer

Baroque Rocks N°69 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

The breathtaking Church of Saint Mary of the Snows in Belec

A dog is a man’s best friend

Get to know all the woof woof details

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

Contents

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

6

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

7

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

8

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Celebrating Winter

9

Celebrate winter with us

Culture & Events

15

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay A place to rest your weary head

24

Pages see 9-14 the joyous festivities and celebrations around Zagreb as people welcome the grand New Year’s Eve bash.

What to see

38

All those things you mustn’t miss

Mail & Phones 27 Smoke signals and carrier pigeons 44 Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Go Gourmet 34 Getting around 45 Treat yourself to Christmas specialties and other Save on shoe leather foodie delights Nightlife 36 Shopping 47 When you just gotta boogie Shop like Santa Dining & Nightlife

Leisure

51

Hiking or Ice-skating

Zagreb Icons

52

Željko Krčadinac

Pet Lifestyle

53

Every Dog has its day

Directory

55

Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

56

Maps & Index

Page 34 depicts some of the scrumptious Christmas specialties you can surprise your loved ones with.

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Street index City map City centre map Transport map Country map

58 59 60 62 63

December 2012 - January 2013

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Foreword ‘Jingle bells and your sense of smell awakens in Zagreb’, ‘Oh what fun it is to munch on all the foodie goodies’!

Indeed, you’ve come to the right place at the right time as traditional specialties are frantically being prepared around households. We have a superfluous insight on all the great cooking and decoration making workshops to give your Christmas flair. Zagrebians love to shop and bare gifts so the malls and centres will be choc a block as they buy for their nearest and dearest. We've dedicated this guide to making your life as easy as possible at this hectic time of year. Where to pamper yourself so you look your best for those special parties; where to buy the perfect gift, where to enjoy days out in the snow, where to enjoy a good meal out over the Christmas season and where to go for a relaxing escape to recover once it's all over. The lead up to Christmas is Advent and Zagreb is filled with warmth as many concerts, festivals, stalls, restaurants and cafes are devoted to this holy time. You’re bound to find a gorgeous authentic Christmas souvenir and the city really is a buzz.

And then there is New Year’s Eve where all the major city squares are jam packed with young and old, ready for the countdown and a bigger and better 2013. Wear your long johns and beanies as it will be cold! Restaurants also hold special packages for both Christmas and New Year’s so you can sample the best seasoned specialties. You definitely won’t miss out! We have a special on dogs with the all you need to know about schooling, medication and even hotels if required. Last but not least, we send a big cheerio and thank you to all our readers and thank them for all their support and wonderful feedback. We wish you fantabulous seasons greetings and every success for the coming year.

Cover Story The photo ‚A View From My Window‘, is part of a photo cycle entitled ‚A View From My Window‘, which a great photographer from Zagreb, Željko Krčadinac has been taking for 50 years, clicking the button and a snapshot of various events and motifs from one spot visually with his photo camera from his window and the balcony at his flat. For more about the life and work by Mr Željko, read the section ‚Zagreb Icons‘.

The entire scope of photos from the last exhibit “A view from my window” see on the following portals: Fotogard.com, Fotografija.hr, Culturenet.hr…

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o.

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Editorial

Copyright notice

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Marko Sirovina Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Željko Krčadinac, Pogled s mog prozora

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings!

Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. fivestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres.

We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD I www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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Arriving in zagreb Tourist information

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Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.ž

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Arriving in zagreb Basics Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis­tance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Eu­ro­pean Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

QR Code This QR code contains the website address, www.inyourpocket.com/ croatia/zagreb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone‘s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 15kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,14kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,79kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,99 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,34 €1,30 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 26. 11 2012): US$1 = 5,7kn €1 =7,5kn £1 = 9,1kn

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a trans­former to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly mono­tone in re­li­gious terms. Having al­ ways ex­isted on the frontiers of three religions; Catho­lic, Orthodox and Mus­lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the popu­lation has be­ come over­whelmingly Catho­lic with the 2001 Cen­sus re­cording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic.

These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel.

456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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December 2012 - January 2013

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HISTORY

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led

by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

ZGH Archives 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected.

2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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Celebrating Winter

Christmas in Belec The tiny hamlet of Belec, close to the little town of Zlatar north of Zagreb, is home to just a few hundred souls. Set amid the green, rolling hills of the Zagorje region, it's the hiding place of a real treasure of church architecture - the Baroque Church of St Mary of the Snows.

Apart from its rich interior, the church is an unusual example of a fortified church, being encircled by low walls and towers in a rustic Baroque style. Just a short distance away, the ruined mediaeval fortress of Belecgrad looks over protectively from its vantage point on a hillock. These defences are a reminder of the days when this region was under threat of invasion from the nearby Ottoman Empire.

The church was built on the foundations of an older chapel and consecrated to Our Lady of the Snows by Duchess Elizabeth Keglević Erdody around 1675.

However pleasing the church appears from outside with its lemon yellow walls and huddle of low red roofs, it's no preparation for the explosion of colour and ornament within.

The church has five altars, a pulpit and choir in gilded wood, and frescoes cover all surfaces of the interior of the church and sacristy. It's quite breathtaking. This is one of the loveliest Baroque churches in Europe.

Of the craftsmen who took part in building the altars, the most notable is Josip Schokotnigg of Graz. Of the five altars, Schokotnigg built the two at the sides of the main altar which are consecrated to St Joseph and St Barbara. The pulpit with gilded figures and reliefs from the Old Testament is also one of his works.

The two altars by the outside walls of the church are dedicated to the Holy Rosary and to St Stephen the Protomartyr. The main altar, dedicated to Our Lady of the Snows, is the work of an unknown artist and depicts the Virgin Mary bathed in golden light along with two floating angels.

The church's paintings are mainly frescoes devoted to iconography of Our Lady covering all the walls of the interior.

They are the work of the Tyrolean master Ivan Krstitelj Ranger.

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If you'd like to experience a Christmas service in this lovely Baroque church you can attend a traditional Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. On Christmas Day itself, Mass is heard at 08:00, 11:00 or 16:00. This little church, complete with a Nativity scene, will surely offer an especially cosy Christmas atmosphere.

If you don't have a car, the best way to get to Belec is to take a bus from Zagreb coach station to Zlatar, then take a taxi to Belec. Please call in advance to check times and working hours over the Christmas holidays.

The church is only open during Mass, so if you'd like to visit at other times please contact the bellringer on (+385-49) 46 04 18.

The Parish Church of St Mary of the Snows Belec 52, Zlatar, (+385-49) 46 00 40 Auto Taxi Prijevoz D. Domjanića 7a, Zlatar, (+385-) 099 48 87 16 Domi Prijevoz (+385-) 099 348 87 16, 098 969 04 46

December 2012 - January 2013

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Celebrating Winter

Krešimir Tadija Kapulica - Kapulica and Lanterns (Kapulica Photo Archives)

Christmas activities 23.11 Friday - 07.01. Monday

Skiing and snow bowling (Skijanje i grudanje na Štrossu) B-2, Strossmayer's Promenade, w w w.zima. ljetonastrosu.com. Concerts and DJs between 20:00 and 23:00.

01.12 Saturday - 31.12 Monday

Advent on the ban Jelačić Square Concerts and entertainment between 17:00 and 21:00, Sat and Sun 10:00 - 14:00 and 17:00 - 21:00.

Exibitions 02.12 Sunday - 06.01 Sunday

Advent in MUO

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

08.12 Saturday - 07.01 Monday

XMAS Superstore (Bor s nama 2012)

D-3, Gallery of Croatian Design Society, Boškovićeva 18, dizajn.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

01.12 Saturday - 15.01 Tuesday

Fuliranje at Funicular (Fuliranje kod Uspinjače)

B-2, Tomićeva. Fuliranje can be described as pretending, posing yourself as something you are not, and this expression is still widely used thanks to one Croatian comedy film from 1970, Tko pjeva zlo ne misli, in which the main character was Mr Fulir. A dash of the period portrayed in the film, the 1930s will be revived and experienced throughout the season of Advent in Tomićeva Street which temporarily transforms into a little museum of that period. Expect specialties, clothes and gifts, all inspired by past times.

Disco Skating D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Grace the ice-rink with favourite hits to skate to.

Christmas Markets Tis the season of giving and gratitude! Seek out the perfect gift, souvenir or Christmas decorations for your loved ones and perhaps even one for yourself. Prance through one or all of these Christmas markets for all your holiday needs.

28.11 Wednesday - 07.01 Monday

Gajeva and Bogovićeva streets

C-2. The Traditional Christmas market with little wooden houses that contain all the Christmas goodies.

10.12 Monday - 10.01 Thursday

Christmas - the joy of life

J-5, International Cultural Centre - MCUK, Božidara Magovca 17, www.mcuk.hr.

Christmas delicious When browsing around any of the Christmas markets they are the perfect time and place to enjoy sausages, mulled wine, fritule, grog, baked apples and other traditional winter spices, scents and tastes. The fact that you are outdoors and surrounded by people of good will, not to mention the cheery vibe in the air which wholesomely gives these delicacies a special taste.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

TZGZ Archives

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Celebrating Winter 01.12 Saturday - 31.12 Monday

BazaArt

C-1, Inkubator Gallery, Tkalčićeva 30. QOpen 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

01.12 Saturday - 01.01 Tuesday

Zrinjevac

C-2. The Market on Zrinjevac also has gorgeous small wooden houses with more arty items, unique gifts, souvenirs and Christmas decorations. Accompanied with music in the background from 18:00 until 22:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

07.12 Friday - 09.12 Sunday

Fistt Art Fest

B-4, SC Club, Savska 25. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00.

09.12 Sunday & 16.12 Sunday

Christmas fairs of by the Kloto (and friends) Association E-3, Tvornica, Šubićeva 2. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.

14.12 Friday - 23.12 Sunday

Christmas Market of the Veterans' Associations

I-5, Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00.

15.12 Saturday

Winter Bazaar

K-3, KvArt, Heinzelova 66. Urban market winter edition!

Find antique, vintage, and authentic clothes, shoes, jewellery, lamps, furniture, and more. It's a platform for young artists, art groups and designers to flaunt their talents. Q 11:00 - 18:00.

16.12 Sunday - 23.12 Sunday

Artomat

E-3, HDLU, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr. A charming traditional pre-Christmas fair with unique and quirky gifts up for grabs! Visitors can participate in all sorts of free workshops, enjoy interactive performances (one of the most interesting by Krešo Kapulica where you can make and then release lanterns into the night sky). For schedule visit: www.hdlu.hr.

Become a child again

Advent in Zagreb, www.bozicnaprica.com Archives

02.12 Sunday - 06.01 Sunday

Creative Christmas workshops

B-3, Arts and Crafts Musem, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. An ornament oasis dear readers; Christmas cards, advent calendars, decorations for the Christmas tree, nativity scenes, gift boxes and toys will be made according to different techniques and of diverse material. Q Saturadays 10:00 - 14:00.

02.12 Sunday - 06.01 Sunday

Sweet Workshops

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. Oh my! Workshops on making Christmas cookies...

Scrumptious!QThursdays 17:00 - 19:00.

Concerts 18.12 Tuesday

Concert Sfumato - Concert as a Gif t Croatian Christmas Story

23.11 Friday - 31.03 Sunday

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.mimara.hr. HRT Choir and maestro Tonči Bilić.

Q Concert starts at 20:00.

Žuti mačak Ice Skating Rink

18.12 Tuesday

K-3, Green Gold Centre, Radnička 52, tel. (+385-) 099 211 09 37, www.zutimacak.hr/klizanje. Itzzzz ccccold outside and don't know what to do! Then glide into the Green Gold Centre which has an ice-skating rink in the atrium with lessons available, disco ice skating, pond hockey, winter games… QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.

01.12 Saturday - 31.05 Friday

A world of toys

B-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, w w w. emz.hr. Step back in time and welcome to a world of toys, during the next six months visitors will see several exhibitions related to the topic with the essential being ‘Children’s Toys of Croatian Heritage’. You won’t see any Barbie dolls, transformers, or Ben 10 figurines, but you will see toys produced as early as the mid-nineteenth century, classics that are enlisted on the UNESCO list and a part of Croatian heritage.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

To all the people in the world, wishing peace and joy

J-5, International Culture Centre MCUK, Božidara Magovca 17, www.mcuk.hr. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

22.12 Saturday

Singing Christmas Carols

J-5, International Culture Centre - MCUK, Božidara Magovca 17 (Plateau Mamutice), www.mcuk.hr.

Performances by the Vatroslav Lisinski Renaissance Ensemble. Q Concert starts at 12:00.

26.12 Wednesday

The 24th Christmas in Cibona

A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Centre, Savska 30. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

www.inyourpocket.com December 2012 - January 2013

11

12

Celebrating Winter 06.12 Thursday - 06.01 Sunday

A Jolly Christmas Tram Santa's reindeers are replaced by good fairies and jovial leprechauns who will amuse children in the old tourist tram.

Together with singing and fun, children will receive presents during the ride. The starting station of the Jolly Christmas Tram is at the corner of Praška Street and Ban Jelačić Square, the ride takes approx 30 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at the info house on the square, 25kn for children and children up to 3 years old for free.

20.12 Thursday - 07.01 Monday

Live Christmas Nativity Scene

C-2. See Joseph, Mary, the three Kings, the shepherds and real farmed animals in a real live nativity setting in front of the Cathedral. Members of the Cenacolo Community rejoice and re-enact the story of Jesus' birth and help spread the Christmas spirit.

22.12 Saturday

Christmas Saturday in Dubrava Cultural Centre

L-2, Dubrava Cultural Centre, Dubrava 51a, www.nsdubrava.hr. Get into the spirit of Christmas this Saturday which combines a happy creative fair for both kids and adults with abundant workshops dedicated to the wholesome trade of making modern and traditional Christmas jewelry. For workshops in English do reserve in advance to this phone number: 099 20 50 045. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00.

23.12 Sunday

Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs on Ice

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11. ‘Heigh ho, heigh ho, it's off to work we go', we all know that classic catchphrase from Snow White and now the Russian Moscow Stars recreate this magical story with ballet, gymnastics and aerial aerobatics, and it's all on ice. Dazzling, spell-binding, enriching… For the entire family! Q Starts at 15:00. Tickets 70 - 250kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Laubica H-3, Lauba Gallery, Baruna Filipovića 23a, ww.lauba.hr. Children aged between 5 to12 and interested in fine art are invited to free workshops at Lauba each and every Saturday at 15:00 and held by Lauba volunteers. Topics are always inspired by some display inside the gallery and the use of creative techniques is highly advocated.

Workshops at the History Museum B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr. Themed and creative workshops tied to the tradition and period of Izidor Kršnjavi, the Croatian painter, politician and art historian on whom an exhibition is held in the museum. Children will make ribbons, nativity scenes, Christmas decorations connected to the church holidays of Saint Nicolas, Saint Lucia and Christmas according to the tradition at the end of the 19th and start of the 20th century. Dates will be scheduled by the announced visitors.

Jolly Christmas Tram, ZGH Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

This month's hot Xmas list The who, what, when and where of Christmas Shopping is here! The perfect gift for the littlies to the biggies has just been made easier with this bonanza list of authentic original Croatian products.

Kids Baltazar. A classic cartoon made in Zagreb during the late

60’s that had kids glued to TV screens. Professor Baltazar is a quirky, unique and gifted scientist whose witty inventions uplift the lives of Baltazar Town’s inhabitants. See 59 episodes that last between 5 to 10 minutes with an English version available. Copies are available at both Algoritam, Gajeva 1 and Profil, Bogovićeva 7 book stores.

Wife or Girlfriend Bashota Jewellery Ilica 37, Ilica 69, www.zlatarnica-

bashota.hr. If you’re looking for a special gift try the Bashota jewellery shops where you can find unique and distinctive piece of jewellery.

Licitarsko srce. These small cakes are traditionally made from honey dough or gingerbread, shaped as a bright-red heart and decorated with white framing lines, flowers and mirrors, licitarsko srce have long been offered as love tokens to the object of affection. You can find it in most souvenir shops and Dolac market.

Afternoon tea

Caffe Galerija Lav Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 21 08. Decked out with artworks galore, an ostentatious view of (The stone Gate) and of course top class teas each served in individual tea pots with decorative porcelain tea cups. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. N Flores (Frane Petrića 1) C-2, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Interior is a la Franc where you can take pleasure in a selection of French Mariage Teas. It’s the crem de la crem of tea! QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB Gradska Kavana C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 10, info@gradskakavana.hr, www.gradskakavana.hr. Gorgeous ambience taking you back to Zagreb of old. National Croatian teas served in their own teapots adjoined with eye-catching delectable cakes, strudels, waffles and other delights. Main square, so location is numero uno! QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJAGB Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Order tea and you get the full entourage! A server tray, tea pot, honey, milk and the added bowl of bonus cookies, yummy! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Celebrating Winter

13

ADVENT u ZAGREBU ADVENT in ZAGREB

studeni / prosinac 2012. november / december 2012 Grad Zagreb

Koncertna direkcija Zagreb www.kdz.hr

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

www.adventzagreb.com

December 2012 - January 2013

14

Celebrating Winter Husband or Boyfriend Croata Ilica 5, www.croata.hr. Ties and varied clothing of rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie.

DTR Shirt Ilica 25, Ilica 36, Teslina 8, www.deteer.hr.

So your husband or boyfriend have a bundle of white shirts, but do they have a famous DTR shirt? Their service in making shirts according to measure is a best kept secret amongst business professionals.

Brother or Sister CD Chui. If you are in fusion, electro, jazz, rock and ambienta sound pick this debut album from Group Chui.

CD Ivo Robić. The Americans have Tom Jones whilst the

Croats have Ivo Robić, his style of easy listening music and vintage CDs can be found at most music stores around town.

Perković rakija . The huge variety of fruit and herb brandies, that can be found in: Vrutak, Vodovodna 20a, Kraš, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, Mercator, Centar Kaptol, Nova ves 11.

Zagrebački Melem . It comes packaged in various natural skin protection products such as lip balm, face and hand creams amongst others. Melem is also known as the universal family cream and you can find it in all pharmacies.

Mother or Grandmother Bajadera and Griotte. Over 100 years of history and the chocolates, fine desserts and nougat products made at the Kraš Company continue to melt in your mouth. Two of their specialties ‘Griotte’, a dessert made with real cognac, cherry and fondant poured into a chocolate mould and ‘Bajadera’, a sweet nougat chocolate have maintained both their flavours and fans alike for decades. Kraš shops can be found across the city and at the main Bus Station.

Cedevita. This is a range of alarmingly colourful drinks that can be bought whether in the bottle or as a powder concentrate to mix up at home. For all you folks that don’t like fruit and vegetables, these high vitamin drinks will help fool your body that you do have a brain lurking around up top, you can found it in most grocery shops.

Vegeta. This is basically a food seasoning. It is made from vegetables, spices and salt and therefore has the added bonus of being vegetarian, you can find it in all grocery shops.

Father or Grandfather Gavrilović Salami. This spicy sausage is the claim to

fame of the sleepy town of Petrinja, which lies about 40km southeast of Zagreb you can find it in most grocery shops.

January 1st Changing of the Guard in the Upper Town Watch the special Advent Changing of the Guard in the Upper Town. Q Starts at 12:00.

New Year’s Folklore Night

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9. Q Concert starts at 19:00.

Waltz, polkas and other tambura dances

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. The 10th Jubilee New Years’ Day Concert by the Croatian Radio and Television Tambura Orchestra.

Q Concert starts at 18:00.

Penkala. A gentlemen named Slavoljub Eduard Penkala

patented the first mechanical boil pen in the world in 1906 and shortly after invented the first ink pen with firm ink, replicas of the original pen can be bought at Peroklinika, Ban Jelačić Square 15 and Narodne novine, Trg žrtava fašizma 15.

New Year‘s Eve Squares As per every year, the New Year of 2013 can be welcomed on the main squares throughout the city where free celebrations are organised. All you need is to pack on some warm shoes and clothes, a bottle of champagne and a lot of good New Year’s wishes, a fabulous party is guaranteed. Fireworks, waltz and boiled wine, together with lots of people and good fun is the winning formula for a wonderful night.

Mansion

Clubs Bojan Ristić Brass Band + DJ Ivan Gallery Club, Jarunska obala.

Frankie Headfors

H-5, Mansion, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34, www.mansion.hr.

London Calling 2013 Hypo Event Centre.

Rock’n’Roll New Year’s Eve

Hard Place Club, Šubićeva 55/1, www.hardplace.hr.

Sirup NYE ball & 4th anniversary

K-3, Syrup Club, Donje Svetice 40, www.sirupclub. com.

Štala by Mario Kovač

Untitled, Rebecca Himeise, Oh Tannenbaum www. ohtannenbaum.org, 28.11. - 18.01., Goethe-Institut

Zagreb In Your Pocket

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, w w w. mochvara.hr. Q Starts at 21:00.

KSET resident DJs B-4, KSET Club, Unska 3, www.kset.org.

Rockheads + DJ Cosmico Route 66 Bar, Paromlinska 47.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

culture & events

Footlose by Stefano Fiorentin

Rock & Pop Concerts 14.12 Friday

Atari Teenage Riot

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Prepare to raise a sweat as these Berliners bounce into town with their fusion of punk and digital hardcore/techno.

They often brew controversy due to their lyrical content which is downright anti-fascist. One can expect intensity, high energy, and a loud and proud stage show. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 90 - 110kn.

14.12 Friday

Tony Cetinski - Karlovačko live 2012

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30, www.karlovacko.hr.

Some say that getting to the top is easy, but staying there is even harder. Tony Cetinski has reached and remained at the top of Croatian music for over a decade now and he continues to belt pop rock hits to ballads with his husky rock vocals and melodies. The awards, the glamour and the status are there, and he is sure to rock audiences in Arena this December. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 400kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Jazz&Blues Concerts 14.01 Monday

Giovanni Mirabassi Trio

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concer t Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, jazz.hr. Mirabassi is a majestic pianist from Italy who is highly praised for his ability to change tempo ranging from rich improvisations to poetic efflorescences. He has the ‘been there done that’ CV having produced multiple CDs, travelled afar and worked with some astute musicians.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

21.12 Friday

TBF

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. What a way to finish off the year! The fantastic Split six-pack roll into town playing their fusion of hip-hop, rap, rock, psychedelic, blues and funk. There major hits literally tear the house down and 1400 punters get to hear ‘Mater', ‘Veseljko' and other heart stopping groove rocking tracks.

Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn available at the Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva2; Rockmark, Berislavićeva 13; Aquarius CD Shop, Varšavska 13 and Maksimirska 16, Dirty Old Shop, Tratinska 22, Dancing Bear Shop, Gundulićeva 7, Dallas Music Shop, Tkalčićeva 7.

Classical Music Concerts 22.12 Saturday

2Cellos feat. Zagreb Soloists

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Welcome home boys as Luka Šulić and Stjepan Hauser bring the year to a close with a feature show at Lisinki. They are Croatia's newest sensation, a double bass duo who after uploading their version of Michael Jackson's Smooth Criminal on You Tube have had over eleven million clicks. The new album In2ition will be out soon and they are joined by a range of talented soloists. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

12.01 Saturday

Martina Zadro feat. Martina Filjak - Hommage à Sena Jurinac

B-3, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. kdz.hr. Martina Zadro, an emerging soprano of the younger gen joins Martina Filjak, a pianist with a growing international career to present the works of R. Schumann and arias from operas by Mozart, Puccini and Strauss. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

December 2012 - January 2013

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16

Culture & Events

One of the most influential and greatest Amercian alter rock bands, Dinosaur Jr., will perform in Zagreb’s Tvornica kulture on Fabruary 16.

26.01 Saturday

The Vienna Boys' Choir

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Don't be fooled by their looks otherwise you'll think these boys ought to be cuddling teddy bears. Far from the truth, they are a rasping group of 25 choristers and are considered one of the world's finest boys' choirs; they resurrect the best of Mozart, Schubert, Haydn, Rossini, and various European folk songs. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

02.02 Saturday

Evelin Novak & Krešimir Stražanac feat.

Cornelis Witthoefft

31.12 Monday - 10.01 Thursday

Gaetano Donizetti - L'elisir d'amore (The Elixir of Love)

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk. hr. Gaetano Donizetti's melodrama returns to the stage and it contains one of the most famous arias in ‘Una furtiva lagrima' whilst also having one of the first ever duet operas.

The composer was inspired by a medieval legend on the elixir of love but he juxtaposes this by adding that love can be found without the mystic potion. Q Performances on: 31st December and 10th January.

B-3, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. kdz.hr. Soprano Evelin Novak, baritone Krešimir Stražanac and pianist Cornelis Witthoefft combine as a trio reproducing opera arias and duets from Old Italian masters and German lied. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 15.12 Saturday - 04.01 Friday

The Nutcracker

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www. hnk.hr. This is a fairytale ballet composed by Tchaikovsky and it is well known that the selection of music has some of the best known tunes in classical music. As in this case and time of year, the ballet has become the most popular play performed around Christmas time. Q Performances on: 15th, 19th, 20th, 22nd, 23rd, 28th, 29th December and 2nd, 3rd, 4th January.

18.12 Tuesday - 05.01 Saturday

Johann Strauss - The Bat

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk. hr. In what is one of the most performed operettas in the world, ‘The Bat' returns to Zagreb in great style! From tenor to soprano, the plot is filled with celebration, dance, drunken humor and festive balls. In its essence, it also portrays how in reality vengeance, betrayal and deception are a scheming part of our world. Q Performances on: 18th, 21st, 27th December and 5th January.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

2Cellos

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 19.01 Saturday

Gaetano Donizetti - Maria Stuarda

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The second opera of Donizetti's trilogy revives the Tudor period in English history and deals with the intrigue at the court of Queen Elizabeth. Director David McVicar knows how to portray the two divas playing the role of English queens. Screened live from the Metropolitan! Q Starts at 19:00.

25.01 Friday - 04.02 Monday

Aida

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr.

Giuseppe Verdi's opera takes you back to the glory of ancient Egypt where love battles loyalty. Mystical rituals and passion are spruced with striking arias and powerful ensembles. Aida is revived in this co-production between the Zagreb and Rijeka national theatres. Q Performances on: 25th, 26th, 28th, 30th January and 4th February.

02.02 Saturday - 09.02 Saturday

Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky - Swan Lake

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk. hr. Ensembles worldwide have altered, modified and even transformed this ballet since its premiere in 1877, but the very essence of this melodramatic love story always remains.

Tchaikovsky's score and the traditional choreography are regarded as sacrosanct and this new performance by the Zagreb Ballet as choreographed by English great Derek Dane will again provoke delight. Q Performances on: 2nd, 5th, 7th and 9th February.

Exhibitions 16.10 Tuesday - 16.12 Sunday

Industrial centre of the country - Zagreb's Industrial History and Heritage 1918-1945

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. Enter the second phase of a project which researches, evaluates and presents Zagreb's industrial heritage from an economical, historical, social, urban and architectural aspect.

Those keen on city development as well as the conversion of former industrial buildings will have much to see.

20.10 Saturday - 01.01 Tuesday

Karim Rashid: Ideology of Beauty

Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17.

Ideology of Beauty is a presentation of Rashid's works, including objects such as ‘Love Chair', ‘Blobulous Lava', ‘Vertex', ‘Pleasurescape', and ‘DNA', which have all, during the past few decades, attracted the attentions of fellow designers and art lovers alike. This exhibition is intended to take the form of a dispute between art and design, always a contentious argument within the world of art. Each of the displayed objects will be put alongside other artworks, already on display, from Collection in Motion, which is permanently housed within the museum. The contrast between objects will create a ‘dialogue' which will put across the message of the visiting exhibition. Also, though a multimedia presentation the artist will deliver his philosophy of design and his vision for the future of his medium.

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Red Room, The New Circus Festival, Archives

08.11 Thursday - 20.01 Sunday

Juraj Julije Klović - the Michelangelo of the Miniature Klovićevi dvori Galler y, Jezuitski tr g 4, w w w. galerijaklovic.hr. This exhibition in Klovićevi dvori Gallery will mark the 30th anniversary of its presence on the Zagreb cultural scene, and a remarkable endeavour it is. In order to secure the loan (which in itself was a feat worthy of an exhibition) of Klović's works the gallery had to guarantee very specific and rigid conditions for the exhibition of the items, as well as their safekeeping. Ordinarily such items would be secure behind a vault door, not open to the wider public. Of course the gallery, named for the artist in question, was equal to the task and will, for the first time anywhere, be able to display a large part of Klović's existing work in a single location.

Karim Rashid

December 2012 - January 2013

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Culture & Events 12.12 Wednesday - 31.01 Thursday

Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Exhibition of Drawings

C-3, The HAZU Graphics Office, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.kabinet-grafike.hazu.hr. Born and bred in Zagreb, Kurtović is honoured as this is her 50th year as an artist.

Not even the dream of being invited to live in Paris could lure her from her city. Kurtović's art works are often surrealisitic and fantasmagoric outlined by a restless touch and drooped with refined colours.

14.12 Friday - 30.01 Wednesday

Croatian Photography through the eyes of Peter Knapp

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. What a CV Knapp has! He has photographed for Elle, Vogue, Stern and Sunday Times, worked alongside Andy Warhol and in his riveting passion for this medium he soldiers on as he reviews and merges Croatian photography from the 1930s until today. See the likes of Đuro Janeković, Tošo Dabac, Mladen Tudor and the works of other greats through the eyes of a great.

12.12. Promo for the CD by the Croatian band Mangroove at Vip club

22.11 Thursday - 19.05 Sunday

Iso Kršnjavi - The Great Founder / Minister with a European Spirit

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. The biography of Kršnjavi simultaneously represents the turbulent political and cultural situation that Croatia was in with regard to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

His talents could not be suppressed as his path to becoming an erudite, painter, art historian and talented politician is showcased.

27.11 Tuesday - 28.02 Thursday

Željko Badurina - Project Insider (Contemporary Ar tists at the permanent display of the Museum of Arts and Crafts)

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. Badurina has no boundaries often taking every day items and graphically adding, toning, or manipulating them to enhance, unify or retract. It is post art where his works include ink-jet prints on paper through collaging and photoediting.

Art history and pop art are prominent themes. Postcards are also his forte.

29.11 Thursday - 28.02 Thursday

Reflections of Time 1945 - 1955

C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. Backtrack in time to post WWII where the installment of Communism had a major impact on Croatian soil and the lives of our forefathers. This exhibit relives this transitional phase with photographs retelling the changes in society, including symbols, motifs and icons of that decade.

15.12 Saturday - 15.02 Friday

Roman Golden Earrings from the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. Were earrings a way to a woman's heart between the 1st and 4th century? Find out as 50 earrings from the Ancient Period will be presented. See the technology used in making the earrings and how they were worn. Jewellery designer Zlatko Odrčić goes for gold as he presents a workshop in making copies of the earrings.

18.12 Tuesday - 28.02 Thursday

Mummies - Science and Myth

C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. Ancient Egypt comes to life with the ‘all you want to know' about Egyptian mummies and the mythology of the afterlife. See four human and five animal mummies in the flesh, or should we say in bandages. The mummification procedure and burial equipment will also be explained. Boooo!

18.12 Tuesday - 04.01 Friday

Rene Stessl

C-2, Karas Gallery, Praška 4, www.hdlu.hr. Chef turned artist, Mr Stessl has fused his two passions to create the 1hour restaurant project on the streets, sidewalks and parks of New York. Yes indeed, he randomly sets a table and cutlery offering home-cooked meals to passersby. What will he bring to the Karas Gallery? Hmmm…..

30.11 Friday - 03.02 Sunday

Mladen Stilinović - Retrospective

J-5, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. The Museum of Contemporary Art will be hosting a retrospective of Mladen Stilinović, and one of the leading figures in ‘New Art Practise' in Croatia. His works are based upon the ideas of social and art critique and often feature humour, sly witticisms, and a healthy dose of irony and cynicism for good measure. The main advantage to seeing such an exhibition in the city where the artist resides is self evident; there will be no shortage of experts from which to draw knowledge.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Karlovačko Live- 2012 - Tony Cetinski

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Culture & Events

19

ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS AND CLASSICAL

Opening Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Thursday 10.00 - 19.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Opening Hours from 1 July to 30 September: Tuesday - Friday 10.00 - 19.00 Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Rooseveltov trg 5 10000 Zagreb Croatia Telephone+ 385 (0)1 48 28 100 • Fax + 385 (0)1 48 26 078 • E-mail: mimara@mimara.hr Audio Visual Guide on your smart phone and WiFi –Free

• IVORY • GLASS • PORCELAIN • FURNITURE

EUROPEAN ART: OLD MASTERS PAINTINGS • SCULPTURE • METALWORKS

ANTIQUITY • ORIENTAL RUGS • CHINESE AND OTHER FAR-EASTERN ART

19.12 Wednesday - 06.02 Wednesday

Branko Vlahović - Exhibition of Sculptures

20.12 Thursday - 26.01 Saturday

Nicoline Van Harskamp - With You in Solidarity

A-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, tehnickimuzej.hr. It's been 30 years since his last exhibit and Vlahović is back in the limelight exhibiting restorated sculptures and drawings from private collections and museums, as well as newly discovered technical blueprints. His works have a machine like edge as he connects artistic ideas which are then transformed into industrially made objects.

J-3, Miroslav Kraljević Gallery, Šubićeva 29, www.g-mk. hr. What do you get when you single-handedly analyse 1500 letters sent to the late anarchist Karl Max Krueger? Chaos, bedlam, mayhem… Artist Van Harskamp presents a film and performance based entirely on her findings as she entwines characters and scenarios that derive from the letters as well as presenting a global network of complication.

20.12 Thursday - 27.01 Sunday

Special events

The Art of Design - Joža Ladović, Art historian, conservator and designer

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.mimara.hr. Ladović was highly regarded in art circles as he had organised many exhibitions, created exhibition posters and worked as a conservator at the Conservatory institute. His passion for art history has seen him become a part of it.

09.01 Wednesday - 31.01 Thursday

Zlatan Vrkljan - Pictures

D-3, Bačva Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr.

The balance between line and colour is transparent in this new cycle of paintings by Vrkljan which is a direct follow-on to his previous work presented as triptychs and diptychs. His thematic dedication to cyclists is evident here as he crosses genres and maintains a high artistic pedigree.

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24.10 Wednesday - 21.12 Friday

The 8th New Circus Festival

KIC, Preradovićeva; Travno Scene, B. Magovca 17; Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.cirkus.hr.

Forget the rabbit out of a hat trick this is new wave art that meets atypical circus with a macabre edge. See levitation, disappearances, holograms, mind-reading, objects coming to life, dancing shadows, and more… International acts that thrill throughout each month of autumn. Visit www.cirkus. hr for programme details. Q Tickets available at Dancing Bear, Gundulićeva 7; Octopus piercing studio, Gundulićeva 37.

12.12 Wednesday - 15.12 Saturday

Guitar festival

B/C-1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8, w w w.mestrovic.hr. The stellar Atelier Meštrović becomes home to the Guitar Festival for all fans of string. The famous Edin Karamazov takes charge and brings the likes of the Mascara Quartet, Duo Emalee, Igor Paro and Nela Šarić as well as Karamazov himself to the main stage.

December 2012 - January 2013

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Culture & Events 23.12 Sunday

Romeo and Juliette on Ice

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11. So you've read the book, seen the movie, opera and theatre, but have you seen it performed on ice. The tragic love story and family rivalry between the Capulets and Montagues gets even zzzz colder as the Moscow Stars on Ice warm your hearts with the greatest love story of all time. Q Starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 290kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

09.01 Wednesday - 23.01 Wednesday

Days of Ayurveda in Zagreb

Mladen Stilinović

21.12 Friday

Footloose the Musical

B-4, Student Centre Cinema, Savska 25, w w w. footlooseincroatia.com. A city boy comes to a small town where rock music and dancing have been banned, and in his endeavor to change all this, a fast pitched, emotional, rhythmic and energetic story is born. Based on the hit 1984 film, this musical is a contemporary remake with all the gloss, choreography and great music. It is the first private musical production in Croatian and at the Broadway level.

Q Starts at 19:30.

Martha Ehrlich 20.12 Thursday - 17.02 Sunday

Marta Ehrlich - A Retrospective Exhibition

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, modernagalerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

When images and expression collide, the final result is one of interpretation. The works of Croatian Marta Ehrlich leave the viewer with exactly that, much to ponder, construe and justify. Ehrlich inclines to a world of fantasy paying particular attention to form and contour with an awareness that effectively unites objective perspectives and subjective resonances. This is seen with the rough like informel surfaces she creates giving unpredictable effects of gestural and explosive lines.

Following her own creativity, Ehrlich crossed borders producing multidimensional works, fluid configurations and a mysterious transcendence when juxtaposing the internal shades between light and dark. Her colourful expression, tone and detail to dreamlike curves evoke and liberate the imagination, a goal most artists dream of.

Pariz (Hotel de Suez) 1938

Zagreb In Your Pocket

lightofayurveda.wordpress.com/2012/11/05/daniayurvede-u-zagrebu/. Is your New Year's resolution linked to better health? Then you could start 2013 by attending a series of workshops that promote taking care of your body in a natural way. Due to limited numbers available, make sure to apply as soon as you can.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you'll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture.

As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you'll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German.

QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U

Tiger Lillies, 11.12 Students Centre

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Culture & Events

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Modern Gallery, housed in the Revival style Vranuczany Palace in the heart of Zagreb, 1 Hebranga Street, offers:

Marta Ehrlich – Retrospective December 20, 2012 – February 17, 2013 Marta Ehrlich (1910 – 1980) was born in Zagreb. She attended high school in Villars and finished school in Grenoble, Switzerland. After her return to Zagreb, she took private painting lessons from V. Becić, and her beginnings in painting are marked by his powerful personality.

No slave to conventions of any kind, but only following the demands of her own imagination, in her pictures Marta expressed the amazing multidimensionality of poetically multiplied reality, in which immanence and transcendence coexist. The distinctiveness of her personal style, her iconography, and in particular the expressive suggestiveness of her indigo palette, reveal to us a world of subtle correspondences between reality and dreams.

Working hours: Tuesday-Friday 11 AM - 7 PM Saturday and Sunday 11 AM – 2 PM zagreb.inyourpocket.com

December 2012 - January 2013

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Culture & Events during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it's home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it's a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called "200 Years of Croatian Art" - that's just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it's been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project's original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world's metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples' eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that's indisputable. When he wasn't out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Isidor i Ruza Krsnjavi Zagreb 1905

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr.

Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms

Zagreb In Your Pocket

TBF

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Culture & Events

Atari Teenage Riot

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More Exhibitions

16.12 Sunday

01.10 Monday - 01.03 Friday

Cycle Dieterich Buxtehude - Collected works for the organ

Sutures, structures, textures - Fossila as an inspiration in fashion design

21.01 Monday

D-3, The Basilica of the Heart of Jesus, Palmotićeva 33.

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, www.hpm.hr.

Laura Vadjon, violin & Laurence Cummings, harpsichord

Visions of Sound

C-1, Dverce Palace, Trg Katarine Zrinske 6, www.kdz. hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

24.01 Thursday

The Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, glazba.hrt.hr. Tomaso Albinoni: Adaggio in G minor Stjepan Šulek: Concert for the organ Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphony No. 3 in ES major, Op. 55, ‘Eroica’.

Q Concert starts at 19:30.

29.01 Tuesday

Valentin Silvestrov - Liturgical tunes

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.mimara.hr.

27.11 Tuesday - 31.12 Monday C-2, Rockmark, Berislavićeva 13, www.rockmark.hr.

14.12 Friday - 24.12 Monday

artOmat

D-3, Prsten Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr.

14.12 Friday - 30.12 Sunday

Critical Aliances

D-3, PM Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr.

15.12 Saturday - 28.12 Friday

Minimal and Maximal - juried exhibition of accessories (fashion accessories) C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr.

21.12 Friday - 29.12 Saturday

07.02 Thursday

Valentina Lacmanović - Performance

The Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra

10.01 Thursday - 30.01 Wednesday

D-3, Bačva Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, glazba.hrt.hr. Johannes Brahms: Concert for violin and orchestra in D major, Op. 77, Pyotr Illyich Tchaikovsky: Symphony No. 4 in F minor, Op. 36.

Clue(less)

Jazz & Blues Concerts

15.12 Saturday

23.01 Wednesday

HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. Tadej Tomšič

I-4, Zvonimir Bajsić Studio, Prisavlje 3, jazz.hr.

20.02 Wednesday

HRT Jazz Orchestra - Project Abba

I-4, Zvonimir Bajsić Studio, Prisavlje 3, jazz.hr.

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D-3, Prsten Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr.

Rock & Pop Concerts Electronic Beats presents Hercules & Love Affair Soundsystem

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 50 - 70kn.

12.01 Saturday

Andrew Weatherall feat. Sergej Snooze K-3, Sirup, Donje Svetice 40, sirupclub.com.

December 2012 - January 2013

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Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb. com. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 30€ daily.

Q306 rooms (254 doubles €280, 28 suites €350 - 415, 23 Executive Rooms €305, 1 Presidential Suite €1500).

PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres. zagreb@westin.com, www.westinzagreb.com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury.

Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine.

All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily.

Q349 rooms (308 doubles €133 - 183, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €183 - 233, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €268 - 318, 2 Delux Suites €550 - 600).

PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-

1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@ arcotel.at, w w w.arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants.

Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335).

PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €90 - 116, 142 doubles €99 - 124, 4 suites €133 - 250). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Where to stay

Your hotel in the heart of Zagreb…

SEMINARS

CONGRESSES

WEDDINGS

EVENTS

BUSINESS LUNCHES

JUICE BAR

Ljudevita Gaja 1, 10 000 Zagreb, Hrvatska, Tel.: +385 1 4863-555, Fax: + 385 1 4863-550, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr

BEST WESTERN1 PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, HD_125x90.indd Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks.

Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls.

Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request.

Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187).

PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q 245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220).

POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh

Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@Esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings9/28/12 of Spain, Nepal, 12:28 PM and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 45€/ day. Breakfast not included; 25€/ person. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €159 - 194, 48 Delu x Rooms €178, 13 Delux Suite €309, 1 Presidential Suite €1600).

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Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do December 2012 - January 2013

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Where to stay their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb.

Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 - 118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, w w w.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q 41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84).

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Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center.

Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Mighty fine wine Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 35 93, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 110kn).

PALGBW new

Speakeasy C-2, Bogovićeva 4 (Neboder Passage).

Pyr, Archives

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (68 - 130kn). PTAGB

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You would be forgiven for thinking it bigger than it is at first sight, but this is on account of some wonderfully positioned mirrors which somehow give you the sense of the era of prohibition, helped in no small part by the presence of a basement section. This particular Speakeasy is a welcome addition to the City Centre hostelries, with ample seating both indoors, and out.

The floor is made from wine crates yet nothing quite so haughty rubs off on the venue or its staff. The cool interior of the Neboder building might prove refreshing in the summer, but they should also provide the customer with ample viewing as the Christmas shopping period gathers pace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 04:00. BXW

Kantina bar D-3, Pavla Hatza 15, tel. (+385-1) 481 92

36. Just upstairs from Čiho Restaurant this café/bar with its green tile-topped tables, traditional Dalmatian music, and wine bottle lights screams mellow and is a welcomed slice of the coast in the big city. Serving the usual variety of drinks, what sets it apart is its exceptional wine list, and the fact that you can order the delicacies of Korčula from the restaurant and feast in the bar section upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 600kn). PA Kerempuh C-2, Kaptol 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 90 00, kerempuh1@zg.t-com.hr, www.kerempuh.hr. A favourite food hangout of Zagreb’s young professionals and those in the know, this place serves traditional Croatian fare. A fantastic view of Dolac in all its pre-3pm hustling and bustling glory.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:30. (25 - 120kn).

PJAGBW

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Restaurants Bosnian Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52,

tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra. hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB

Klub Književnika, Archives

Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7,

tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika. hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it’s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PJAGBW Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of i ts star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn).

ALEGBW

Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical

Duksa‘s crusty Pies new

Duksa K-2, Duknovićeva

4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, duksa.piz za@gmail.com, w w w. facebo ok.com/pages/DuksaPizza/332854106795014?fref=ts It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. So we’re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. The pizzeria is owned by a chap who grew up in this street (the name Duksa is his fond nickname for Duknovićeva ulica). Times have changed since the days when it was a pot-holed track overrun with kids on bicycles and overlooked by neighbours drinking coffee and exchanging the day’s gossip. But the owner’s efforts to keep the humour and camaraderie of those days alive results in a truly pleasing atmosphere, a change from most city-centre eateries.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”.

Featured ingredients include several types of good quality cheese, smoked pancetta, proper ham (not the soggy kind), fresh basil and organic garlic. Our tastebuds were especially tempted by the pizza with two types of mozzarella, roasted cherry tomatoes, sage, garlic, fresh basil and olive oil… This is all topped off with a pleasant interior, some great tunes (jazz, blues, old-time classics and ambient sounds) and best of all, great wine from the Matošević vineyard sold by the glass. Buon appetito!

When coming from town, simply hop on tram 12 from Ban Jelačić Square to Maksimir Park. Then at the intersection between Maksimirska Street and Bukovačka Street, drive straight along Bukovačka Street, turn left at Benkovićeva Street, and then turn right at Duknovićeva Street and you’re there at number 4! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn).

PAGBW

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Restaurants Vegeterian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com. hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. new

Green Point C-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483

36 67, www.green-point.hr. Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot. ‘Green is in’ even in Zagreb and satisfies your urges for happy, healthy, dine-and-dash choices. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

(15-30kn). AW Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (65 - 125kn). PA Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05.

You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

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December 2012 - January 2013

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Restaurants Breakfast Day Cafe Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50,

info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr. One look at these wraps and you’re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Breakfast from 07:30 - 10:30.

(9 - 29kn).

Imperial Café Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 3pm to 6pm except Sundays! The 18kn coffee n cake or tea n cake is a winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 45kn).

KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. How do you like your eggs?

Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon n eggs, sausages n eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas. And best of all, is served aaalll day long! (14-110) Stare Skaline C-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 86 09. When price and a slice is nice! Pay between (1220kn) and choose from 4 fitting brekky menus. Oops and frappes, frittatas, baklava, fresh squeezed juice…

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (12 - 20kn).

Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating. Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli… Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn). PJABW

Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11,

info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com. Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW

Japanese Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you!

The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

(70 - 180kn). PAG

Pizza Baschiera H-4, Selska cesta 215, tel. (+385-1) 369

Saturday morning in Velvet with Foozdarije! You can have breakfast snack food by the married couple food bloggers. For more info check out foozdarije.blogspot.com.

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 130kn). PAGW

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

89 99, www.baschiera.hr. Close to Jarun, it used to be the favourite pizza locale. The pastel turquoise and orange seems to take seven years off your life and will have you saying inappropriate and immature things in no time. Youngsters love it. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (38 - 70kn).

PAGBSW Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16.

With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB

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Restaurants Desserts Orijent

Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. PGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. Also at Barčev trg 16 (J-5, Utrina), tel. (+385-1) 669 88 88. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTJNGB Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com.

We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. NGBW Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. A tiny little gem in Vlaška, we highly recommend you make a trip for a pick’n’mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Millennium C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 50, info@slasticarnica-millennium.hr, w w w. slasticarnica-millennium.hr. It’s not just the taste of the ice cream that drives us wild, it’s also the sight of the billows of ice cream like multi-coloured clouds laced with chocolate, fruit sauce and nuts: mmmmmmm, slaver. Presentation is everything, after all. Try the “Crick-o-Crick” flavour, we dare you. Warning: there is no turning back. The seating area outside is particularly stylish. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGB

J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23.

Th ere are people we know wh o practicall y orgasm when they talk about this little place.

The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix.

Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. Q Open 0 9:0 0 - 21: 0 0, Sa t 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGW Šime D-3, Petrinjska 61, tel. (+385-1) 481 94 40, slasticarnica.sime@gmail.com, www.slasticarnicasime.hr. Around the corner from central train station is Šime, a recently redecorated café and dessert shop. The view from the giant terrace will keep you entertained as you lick away. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. (3 - 15kn). PNGB The Cookie Factory C-1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 01/(+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@ cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr. Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. PJAGBW

Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@ torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! Also in Babonićeva 121(Šalata) E-1, tel. 099 343 41 15. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PNGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

December 2012 - January 2013

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Restaurants Chic & Cheerful

Gastro events

Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10,

11.12 Tuesday

tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to wri te home abou t…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). B Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kn. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. (14 - 110kn). JNB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40.

Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and 19:00 - 23:00). QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNB Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (15 - 75kn). PJNGW

Christmas cakes and cookies

A-2, Krijesnica, Deželićeva 50, www.makronova.com Get into the holiday spirit and learn to cook up a treat as Tončika Cukrov holds a workshop dedicated to healthy versions of those scrumptious sweets, cakes, and other goodies dedicated to Christmas.

09.02 Saturday - 14.02 Thursday

Chocolate Festival

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. God gave the angels wings and humans chocolate. So without delay, head into town for a chocolate fest to fulfil that crrrraving! See how chefs turn arty as they design amazing items in chocolate, taste local and international favourites… Ohh and the choco cooking show, choco themed dinners, choco kids events and a whole lotta choco more!

Pizzeria 6 J-3, Medulićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 484 62

48/(+385-1) 484 65 62, www.pizzeria6.hr. Apart from crusty pizzas and tempting pasta dishes, they also do fried and grilled fish, including papaline and gavuni, which are deep-fried little fishies to be munched whole, a great snack for as little as 15kn. A good place to go as well for a plate salad. Delivery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (32 70kn). PAGS

Seafood Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights.

The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 130kn).

PJALGBW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

PARGB

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Restaurants Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGW Ribice i tri točkice C-2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 68, info@ribiceitritockice.hr, www. ribiceitritockice.hr. With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.

In a rush? Just down the sidewalk toward Cvjetni Trg is their take-away stand with a similarly fish-filled array of offerings.

QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. (28 - 80kn). PA6S

Spice of life Islamic Cultural Center Restaurant K-4, Gavellina

40, tel. (+385-1) 613 71 59/(+385-1) 613 71 62, info@ islamska-zajednica.hr, www.islamska-zajednica.hr. While taking a look at the architecturally impressive Islamic Cultural Center, step just around the corner and grab a bite at the restaurant that’s part of the complex. There’s a large, airy patio with plenty of outdoor seating that overlooks gardens and greenhouses and offers a peak at the Medvednica mountain, plus another spacious dining room inside. The menu is full of Croatian favorites like ćevapi and burek and other Balkan specialties. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (10 - 80kn).

PGB

Gastro events 11.12 Tuesday

Christmas cakes and cookies

A-2, Krijesnica, Deželićeva 50. Get into the holiday spirit and learn to cook up a treat as Tončika Cukrov holds a workshop dedicated to healthy versions of those scrumptious sweets, cakes, and other goodies dedicated to Christmas.

09.02 Saturday - 14.02 Thursday

Chocolate Festival

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. God gave the angels wings and humans chocolate. So without delay, head into town for a chocolate fest to fulfil that crrrraving! See how chefs turn arty as they design amazing items in chocolate, taste local and international favourites… Ohh and the choco cooking show, choco themed dinners, choco kids events and a whole lotta choco more!

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square.

There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn).

PAGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Cafes Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a li terar y as s o cia ti on started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words…

Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd.

QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58.

Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance.

Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 820 50 20, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www. svijetstripa.hr. Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

PNBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indierock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW December 2012 - January 2013

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go gourmet Scones with Cracklings

A Taste of Heaven - Scones with Cracklings This recipe, described by Željka Klemenčić, uses pork greaves - rendered pork fat fried until it forms little brown crispy bits, a bit like pork crackling or scratchings. In Croatia these are known as čvarci and are eaten as a treat.

In a meat mincer, grind good-quality, home-made pork greaves. Add sugar and warm water to yeast until it foams.

Make your dough and wait for it to rise. Knead it, and leave it to prove once more. Bread rolls with greaves (called čvarkače in Slavonia), are definitely slow food. There are no short cuts to making them. But apart from the trendy slow food category, greaves are not very fashionable.

You can find them in some pubs, but those are really a pale imitation of what they should be. Bread rolls with greaves should always taste yeasty because the yeast hasn't had time to rise, grow or breathe.

Many modern trends have tried to stand in the way of my love for these peppery, greasy bread rolls. First of all, that awful thing known as saturated fat. For years we were told we'd get a heart attack just by looking at pork crackling. And now the problem is th e bread itself - people have it in for wh eat b ecause of starch, gluten, GMO or whatever.

Bu t th ese bread rolls are nothing more than the optimal combination of dough and fat, which results in an unbeatable lightness and crispiness whi ch you can n ever, ever find in any “healthy” bread rolls.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

This recipe was prepared for you by Željka Klemenčić.

For more information about homemade food, search on www.mrvica.hr.

400 g smooth flour 250 g cracklings, minced Half a cube of yeast 2 dl warm milk + 1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon salt + 1 tablespoon of sugar Crumble the yeast into the lukewarm milk and add a tablespoon of sugar and a little flour. Cover with a tea towel and wait for it to rise. In a large bowl, mix the flour, eggs, remaining sugar and salt, then add the raised yeast.

Knead the soft dough; it should remain on the border of being sticking. Cover with a tea towel and let it rise for at least 1 hour.

Knead the dough again and leave it to rise for another half hour. Mix together the cracklings and powdered spices as desired (salt, pepper, a few hot peppers).

Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface, about 1 cm thick. On half of the dough, with your fingers, add the mixture of cracklings. Fold in half. And repeat until you run out cracklings, each time folding the dough like when making a puff pastry. As you fold the dough more times, it will become puffier.

Leave the dough to rest for 15 minutes, then again roll it out, about 1 cm thick.

With a glass, cut out circles and place them on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. Coat each circle with yolk and sprinkle with caraway seeds and coarse salt.

Bake scones for about 15 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Go gourmet That's why for me these rolls are a taste of heaven. When I was a child I never heard that such and such was bad for you. Neither did anyone try to explain to me that I should eat such and such because it was good for me. These concepts didn't exist. I have a clear picture in my head of my mother cutting the bread dough into circles and I just can't imagine the words “you shouldn't eat…” passing her lips. That was before all the paranoia, the fear and the nutritional advice. Or, maybe that's just the kind of mother she was. Who knows?

The world was our field of clover. It was me who put up all the fences later. But however much I tried to be sensible, I never went so far as to forget the taste of heaven.

Now, whenever I step into my mother's house, our old house, a light goes on in my head. Go ahead. Take a bite. Enjoy yourself.

Enjoyment is the best medicine.

Bread rolls with greaves are the ultimate example of that kind of therapy. This is not something you'd eat every day. Neither is it something fancy you'd just eat on special occasions. Nor is it junk that you thoughtlessly stuff into your face. It's not a delicacy. It's a real, slow, well-balanced, powerful food; the food of our forefathers.

Interview with Chef Kristijan Marenić What inspired you to become a chef? How did you start out?

It happened by accident.

I had to choose between catering and IT, and I picked the first one. Mind you, I nearly gave up because of some horrible kitchens I worked in.

Then I watched a cartoon called Ratatouille which I loved and it brought back my passion for learning and cooking. Then I went back to the beginning, to learning, and I got the chance to train, to work for the Portuguese ambassador… And that’s how it started.

What are you like in the kitchen: strict, argumentative, easy-going?

Food has it’s rules, its standards, and I think there is no compromise, and I think my approach to food and to the kitchen is the same. You have to have passion in the kitchen, to be a whole person.

Do Croatians know their food?

I think they do, thanks to our traditions, to the food which we’ve had for generations. Americans, for example, are just discovering some refinements which we’ve always had. Perhaps they have a breadth of perspective and a great range of ingredients, but we know how to make something out of nothing.

Is it true in your line of work that the customer is always right? Have you had any unusual requests from your guests?

Yes, it is true. Even when they are wrong, they are right. There are always strange requests, a recent one being scampi with mayonnaise!

Can you trust a skinny chef?

Ha ha (laughs). Of course you can. It’s all about your mentality. When I hear people say that they’re usually wrong.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What is your philosophy of food?

What is your favourite ingredient?

And how about GMO? No GMO, nothing frozen. You have to respect your ingredients, their seasonality and the region they come from. Don’t change their basic characteristics, their essence. My favourite ingredient is definitely butter, it has such a great texture, you can do so much with it. I used to make old-fashioned butter with my parents when I was small.

What do you like to eat? Sweet or savoury? What region does your favourite food come? Where did you eat best in Croatia?

I like sweet stuff Or, let’s say, 50:50. From the Samobor region where I come from I love young cheese and sour cream, and for something light and Mediterranean I’d choose a lemon tart. The best food I ever ate was fried small fish on the Split marketplace, and a big stew on Samobor’s market.

Do you cook at home?

No. My mother and grandmother take over.

Are there any old Zagreb recipes you can recommend? Can you suggest something our readers should try?

A real Zagreb schnitzel, which must be pork fried in butter. There’s always been the spirit of old AustriaHungary here, and we should respect that tradition in a good way. These are classic dishes. I remember how my grandfather used to go for lunch, he’d eat a Zagreb schnitzel with a white wine spritzer, or a tripe soup with home-made dumplings. Zagreb has a great advantage as it has places like Samobor, Turopolje and Bistra nearby where there are excellent ingredients.

Christmas is coming and thoughts turn to special food. What do you like to eat in the holiday season?

The classic sweet dish kremšnite, all the way to the end of December. A really good one, chilled and without whipped cream.

And finally, do you have any advice for young folks who’d like to cook?

Learn about plants, learn about local ingredients, herbs and spices… Learn to work with farmers and local producers.

December 2012 - Januray 2013

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Nightlife Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96

Alternative

Aquarius

AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11. org, w w w.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists' squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb's alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don't need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Working hours on Fridays and Saturdays between 22:00 - 04:00 and on weekdays depending on the request. Check out their website to see what's going on.

Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@kset. org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, 20:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EGW

Jazz in Zagreb Catching a top notch jazz gig in Zagreb is definitely doable, Croatian and international jazz bands perform regularly. In saying that, there is no venue with a regular every day jazz programme and this list will shed light on the fact that certain venues do hold jazz concerts at least once a month.

Hy Plaza Slavonska avenija (Hypo Centre), tel. (+385-1) 611 54 84.

Purgeraj Ribnjak 1, www.purgeraj.hr.

Sax D-3, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr.

Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall I-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr.

VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www. vip-club.hr.

Zagreb Student Centre B-4, Savska 25, www. sczg.hr.

Zvonimir Bajsić Studio I-4, Prisavlje 3 (Croatian Television), www.hrt.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb's premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer's woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in.

As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it's best to keep track via the web.

Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBXW

Bars Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03

06. There's nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre's cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb's best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PBX Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This nononesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite.

Afterall, what's there not to like about a place that doesn't bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb's young literati. And we can see why: the number seven's dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. PBXW Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 309 58 85/ (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-andcoming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. PBXW

Clubs Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife cheap beer and live shows most nights, there's no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock'n'Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PGX Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJNGXW Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can't miss. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60's and 70's. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PALGW Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com.

Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what's going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club. hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb's best musical performances. Q Open Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers' world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

PENGB Sheridan's Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn't really do pubs.

Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia's only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They're also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you're fond of your pint of plain then that's a good thing.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Late night eating American Donut H-3, Krapinska 1, www.american-

donut.hr. Big burgers, various sandwiches, sliced pizza, donuts, and mega muffins to munch… QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6 - 30kn).

City Club Grill H-3, Ilica 125, tel. (+385-1) 370 45 85. They offer kebabs, and sis kebabs with all the goodies in between. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (17 - 27kn).

Lokma C-1, Tkalčićeva 59, info@lokma.hr, www. lokma.hr. Original Turkish kebab with traditional Turkish ayran. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20 - 36kn).

Pinguin Sandwich bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 46. Gourmet standard and toasted sandwiches with prosciutto, grilled chicken and tomatoes plus more… QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

(15 - 30kn).

Slatko i Slano C-1, Tkalčićeva 57. Italian delicacies, sandwiches without crust, panna cota, sweet tooth specialties…. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 04:00. (8 - 25kn).

Mansion

Things to do on Friday night Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, winebar@

dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. Why not enjoy the aromas and tastes of over 130 top class wines rounded off with a nibble at the modern tapas bar. Open Fri 10:00 - 24:00.

First Fitness & Squash Tower K-3/4, Zavrtnica 17, squashtower@squashtower.hr, w w w. squashtower.hr. If you are still feisty after a long week and have excess energy to use, then explode into squash which will definitely give you a workout and raise a sweat.

Price between 16:00 - 23:00 for 30 minutes is 55kn for members and 65kn for others.

Karting Arena Zagreb I-5, Zagreb fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15 (Pavilion 35), info@karting-arena.com, www.karting-arena.com. The need for speed is here indeed! Get your adrenalin pumping by go-karting indoors with all the thrills and fun that this sport offers.

Ker empuh Theatr e B-2, Ilica 31, w w w. kazalistekerempuh.hr. Get into the spirit of classic Croatian hits with a twist as they are played in various versions from punk, rock, reggae, pop and chill to funk and turbo-folk. It’s Cabaret Chishche Lishche. Starts at 23:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

Skybowling H-5, Arena Centar, Lanište 32, www. skybowling.hr. Ten-Pin Bowling with super groovy disco music and light effects will have you dancing and bowling strikes all night long. Great atmosphere, 20:00 - 03:00, 150kn per hour.

December 2012 - January 2013

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What to see Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića)

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching ever y wh ere. I t was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.

zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.

Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 16:00, ticket office 09:00 - 15:00.

Admission 20-30kn.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery.

Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a

Zagreb In Your Pocket

monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works

by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

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What to see

Red Baloon, Nenad Reberšak

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11,

muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages.

Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Open also on Mondays 3, 10 and 17 December. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

The Observatory

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

(Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica. hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town).

The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00.

Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

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TZGZ Archives

December 2012 - January 2013

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What to see

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr.

Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified bod y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar.

The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mario Radaković who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Free admission on Thu. U

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

I bow to you, Vlasta Štalekar

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What to see The Museum of Street Art www.muu.com.hr. Little by little, street art is coming to life in Zagreb. The Museum of Street Art is bringing art to parts of the city which until now didn’t have much in the way of art or culture. Every year since 2010 there have been more and more local and international artists taking part in an event which, over a period of a couple of days, brings to life empty canvases in the shape of walls where fantastic murals and pictures appear, expressing thoughts, opinions, wishes and ideals.

Thanks to these artistic interventions today the length of Branimirova ulica is a riot of colour, as are parts of Dugave and Siget. A sculpture made from waste wood has appeared at Meštrović’s art pavillion on Trg Žrtava fašizma, and the neighbourhoods of Trešnjevka, Maksimir, Donji grad, Gornji grad, Peščenica, Susedgrad and Črnomerec each have their own street artworks too.

Magical moment, Dalibor Domazet

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska

cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Days of Nikola Tesla

29.01 Tuesday - 01.02 Friday A-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, tehnickimuzej.hr. The world of physics is an argumentative place - must be all the fumes from the lab. For instance, given the sheer number of people that are heralded as having invented the radio, you would have hoped that they would have been able to come up with a better use for it than filling it with morons who play terrible music?

An almost equal weight of confusion seems to envelop Nikola Tesla. Around these parts the story is that he was a Croatian that invented radio. As with most claims concerning pioneers, the truth is actually a turnoff from the straight and narrow road of wishful thinking. Tesla was born in Smiljan on the stroke of midnight on the 9-10th July, 1856. His parents were Croatian of Serbian descent, his father was an Orthodox priest. In 1862 the family moved to Gospić where the young Tesla began his education at the local schools before going on to graduate from the Karlovac gymnasium in 1873. After brief spell hiding from conscription into the imperial forcesn Tesla left Croatia in 1875 to begin engineering studies that took him to Graz, Prague and Budapest - where he first visualised the rotating magnetic field.

Tesla sailed for America in 1884, arriving in New York, with four cents in his pocket, a few of his own poems, and calculations for a flying machine. He first found employment with Thomas Edison, but the two inventors were far apart in background and methods. Shortly after this a power struggle developed between Edison’s direct-current systems and Tesla’s alternating-current approach, which eventually became the standard. The Tesla coil, which he invented in 1891, is widely used today in radio and television sets and other electronic equipment. That year also marked the date of Tesla’s United States citizenship. By 1896, Tesla’s generating machinery was installed at Niagra Falls.

In 1915 he was severely disappointed to discover that the rumours that he was to share the Nobel Prize with Edison was not true. In 1943 on 7th Jan, Tesla died aged 86 in the New Yorker Hotel. His remains were sent to Belgrade in 1958, three years after the Tesla Museum had been set up there and two years after the erection of a memorial to him in Smiljan. There are also statues and dedications to him at Niagra Falls, Gospic, Yale University and the hotel in which he died. However, he is best known as having given his name to the unit of magnetic induction - an honour bestowed in 1960.

Note: Radio Tesla Theatre Show In celebrating the 70th anniversary since his death, a theatre show Radio Tesla will be performed by the Puppet Factory Theatre as well as lectures and experiments at the Nikola Tesla Demonstration cabinet.

December 2012 - January 2013

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What to see

The Jarun fairytale, Neda Rački

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world.

Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

TZGZ Archives experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

Advent in Zagreb, www.bozicnaprica.com Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

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What to see Horrible Histories Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding). Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec.

The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia.

According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja, turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man.

The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today.

This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself.

Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge). In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”).

The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-sounding name.

The Black Queen .

There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure.

We know that Barbara o f C e lj wa s b o r n i n 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a youn g a ge sh e was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. I t seems Black Queen zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Interactive Tour The Secrets of Grič, Archives she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence.

And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart?

Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on.

The Witch from Grič. Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”.

Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch.

The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her.

The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale.

He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer).

Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination. A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today.

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s upper town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica!

December 2012 - January 2013

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Mail & Phones Post

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL I-6, Utinjska 40, Sveta Klara, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, info.hr@rheagrupa.com, www.rhea.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Global Express outskirts, Stupničke Šipkovine 3, Donji Stupnik, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express. hr, www.global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Hpekspres D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. N UPS F-6, Zastavnice 38a, Hrvatski Leskovac, tel. (+385-1) 460 70 00/(+385-1) 345 45 55, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N CityEx K-4, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-1) 0800 303 333, info@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express Jelkovečka 5, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear.

National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.

Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.

Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice.

For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

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Getting around Public transport

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside.

When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices.

Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

SMS Tram. You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at http://www.zet.hr/tramvaj/dnevni.aspx. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn.

Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience.

Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Taxi Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every kilometer thereafter comes at a charge of 5kn. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats also available but need to be ordered in advance.

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Getting around Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+3851) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. (+3851) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Purchasing your ticket, made easier From the comforts of work, home, or for that matter any destination, simply click here to find out about our special offers.QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day.

For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

Petrol stations 0-24

Natalija Mihovilović

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ina Dubrava, M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 39. Ina Heinzelova, K-3, Ulica Vjekoslava Heinzela 63, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 44. Ina Jagićeva, A-3, Ulica Vatroslava Jagića 31a, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 48. Ina Langov trg, D-2, Trg Josipa Langa 13, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 51. Ina Špansko, F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 62. Ina Miramarska, C-4, Miramarska bb, tel. (+385 -) 091 497 13 56. Lukoil, H-3, Zagorska 10, tel. (+385-1) 364 35 46. Ina Stupnik East, H-5, Jadranska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 60.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr.

Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49.

Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Art Attack Boudoir, Archives

Shopping centres & Malls

Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-

1) 659 10 50, off ice@avenuemall.com.hr, w w w. avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr.

City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@ citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

This city is exquisitely artistically motivated, a cer tain result o f the various conflicts o f recent decades and the new freedom of the newly independent and democratic political climate. The outlets a r e r i c h l y va r i e d : fashion, performance, c r a f t s , l i t e r a t u r e, photography, music, design, and dance are all making extremely strong sh owings, wi t h a n e m p h a si s Šarena Kreativa on modern and alternative themes. The youth culture is a very creative and active one indeed, and we are predicting that the city will soon become known as a prime destination for the artistically curious among us.

Hanni Moon, www.facebook.com/pages/HanniMoon/291149647620051. Find in New entr y, Radićeva 11.

Oh, Tiger!, info@ohtiger.net, www.facebook.com/ ohtigeroh/info. Find in Roba store, Preradovićeva 30, Kino EUROPA Shop, Varšavska. Šarena kreativa, kreativnikutak8@gmail.com, w w w.facebo ok.com/pages/%C5%A0ar enaKreativa-Unikatne-3D-slike/313644848718008.

Find in Rebel Yell store, Ilica 42; Kloto, Massarykova 14, Butique Slavica, Preradovićeva 9.

Sexy Plexy, www.facebook.com/pages/SEXYPLEXY/319924421391463. Find in Accessoires, Ilica 16.

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Shopping Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483

01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com.

The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Souvenirs

Roman Holiday Skirt, Iris Mihatov Miočić

Art galleries

@telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr.

Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr.

Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Zagreb In Your Pocket

G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can't make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you'll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Širok C-2, Bakačeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 52. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Teslina 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The 'bear' is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Art Shops Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within', that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb's top fashion designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30.

Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on.

Thesaurus, Archives

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, w w w. prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) C-2, Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1)

485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@bakinakuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A Caprilo C-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96 44. Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Chai - svijet čaja Jankomir 33 (City Centre one West), tel. (+385-1) 387 91 35, kontakt@svijetcaja.com, www. svijetcaja.com. The best quality teas from all over the world, utensils for making and serving tea, Belgian pralines, chocolate and other sweets. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. (+385-1) 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja. hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A-2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

More style for less cash The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 9 0 4 0 . Ea c h i t em in The Küül is handselected to create an enticing collection of unique, vin ta ge and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s own er to sh ow you to your next favorite something special. A At the British Square, Vesna steady stream of name Špoljar brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land.

Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses.

QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. A Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg.

Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.

www.inyourpocket.com Ulični Ormar

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Pinklec Delicija E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Luxury

Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Izvorno.hr Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, www.izvorno.hr. If you want authentic Croatian products then come hence forth and choose from their great range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Kandit D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit.hr. Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Also at E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 32 91, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 20:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća piva (Beer House) I-3, Gorjanska 22, tel. (+385-) 091 537 67 70, kucapiva@gmail.com, www.kucapiva. com. Prepare yourself for some hard decision making as there are a staggering 170 different beers from 16 different countries. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Zagreb In Your Pocket

Burberry C-1, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www. burberry.com. Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00.

January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Givenchy C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 492 96 00, www.givenchy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kenzo B-2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 19, www.kenzo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Maria B-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Max Mara B-2, Masarykova 17, tel. (+385-1) 485 40 09, www.maxmara.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Michal Negrin C-1, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 466 90 99, www.michalnegrin.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A XYZ H-5, Arena Centre, Lanište 32, www.xyz-stores. com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A

A’marie, Archives

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

leisure Ice Skating For carnets of 10 visits, the price is 120kn. Check for schedules by phone because of potential changes.

Dom sportova H-3, Trg Krešimira Čosića 11, tel. (+3851) 365 03 51. If there are no sporting or other events being held, the ice rink is open Wed,Thu, Fri 20:00 - 21:30 and Sat, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00, 20:00 - 21:30. Q Admission 15kn. Skates 15kn.

Klizalište Velesajam I-5, Ulica Jozsefa Antalla bb, tel. (+385-1) 655 43 57. Q Fri, Sat 20:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 20:00 - 21:30. Admission 15kn. Skates 15kn. ŠRC Šalata D-1, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55/(+385-1) 461 68 47, src.salata@zg.htnet. hr, www.salata.hr. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30, 20:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15 - 20kn. Skates 15 - 20kn.

Hiking When the greyness of the city streets just gets too much for you during the cold winter months, help is at hand closer than you might guess. There’s a good reason why the whole world and his family and friends strap on the hiking boots and head up Sljeme every weekend. And that is… it’s great!

Sljeme, at 1032m is the highest peak of Mount Medvednica, the lump that sits to the north of the city.

Locals call it a mountain - to you and me it might not be K2, but it is just high enough sometimes when a blanket of fog and cloud is covering the city, up on Sljeme you rise above it all and end up in bright sunshine.

There are a number of walking routes to the top. The most popular routes involve starting at the village of Šestine (take bus number 102 from Britanski trg) or from Dolje (take tram number 8 or 14 to Mihaljevac, change to the 15 for Dolje. Follow the track through the tunnel, and you’ll hit the paths that lead to the top). The walk is absolutely fine for anyone who’s basically fit and healthy - you’ll see lots of quite small children tagging along merrily with their folks.

It takes about 2 hours to reach the top, and an hour and a half on the way down.

One of the biggest joys of a trip to Sljeme is definitely the treat that awaits your tummy there.There are a few mountain huts (planinarski dom) which have self-service canteens where you can load up on traditional regional specialities for a great price. Try grah (bean stew), sir i vrhnje (fresh soft cheese with soured cream), puretina sa mlincama (turkey with a local untranslateable baked product) - it’s all great.These canteens are cosy, cheap and cheerful, and basically offer pretty much the same food. If you fancy something a bit more elegant, try the Tomislavov dom hotel.

When the snow arrives, a delight awaits you - real skiing, night skiing or sledging, all a great fun. Just be aware that snowy weekends can be incredibly busy - pick a weekday if you possibly can (www.sljeme.hr).

Finally, if you feel the need to get away from it all without actually going very far, you could do worse than book yourself into one of Sljeme’s hotels for a day or two. Take a look under the “Mountain high” section in “Where to stay”.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Snowflakes

Sport events 13.12 Thursday - 15.12 Saturday

The 45th Golden Piruette

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11, tel. (+385-1) 301 23 23. Balance, harmony, skill and precision are just some of the words that make figure skating look like an art. This traditional international contest attracts many young and up-coming male and female ice-skaters.

04.01 Friday - 06.01 Sunday

Audi Fis Ski World Cup ‘’ Vip Snow Queen Trophy’’ 2013 Sljeme, www.snowqueentrophy.com.

21.01 Monday - 27.01 Sunday

European Figure Skating Championships H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11.

Ivica Kostelić

December 2012 - January 2013

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Zagreb icons ZIYP: Often there is the dilemma about whether for a good photograph, is it more important that you have a good quality camera or what the photographer wants to convey in their photo?

That is an eternal dilemma, whether if, for a good photo, it is more important who the photographer is or the camera lens. My opinion is that the photographer is more important, even if for some more demanding subjects, for example, shooting a photo of a bird in flight, requires a top-quality and very expensive (tele) lens.

Many theorists emphasize that it is more important to recognize the message regarding the attitude of the photographer in relation to the image, but for me the most important aspect is the aesthetic of the photo from real life.

For me, I remain faithful to the traditional reportingdocumentary approach to photography, especially "street-photography.’’ Today, in the age of unimaginable massification, digital photographs every day create millions of "shots" due to the development of better and more modern automatic cameras. The technical quality of these images is good and it is easy to achieve, but only a very small part of the picture meets both criteria, namely that the content is good and agreeable in form. Also, I think that the desire to increase "creativity" often causes excessive "photo-shopping," such as excessive subsequent manipulation of digital tools, which gives a distorted picture of reality, while the original elements documented in the photograph becomes unacceptably neglected.

The pioneers’ parade for the Youth Day (1970), Željko Krčadinac

Interview with a fantastic photographer from Zagreb Željko Krčadinac ZIYP: Mr. Željko, you began practicing photography during your high school days, in the mid-fifties, of the last century.

Although, conditions for photographic work then were more than modest, that did not affect your creativity and enthusiasm. From your first part-time job earnings you bought yourself your first simple camera, started taking photographs and immediately received several awards at exhibitions for photo-amateur beginners.

Although afterwards, you no longer competed in photo exhibitions, you still spent your entire life - over 50 years - continuing to passionately work with photography. The results of your work include numerous published images in photography monographs, textbooks, atlases, calendars, magazines, brochures, postcards, etc., and several solo exhibitions of photographs. You also have an abundant archive of geographic-tourist images from Croatia and the world, since as a long-time employee of an airline company, you traveled through many countries.

As a retiree, since 2005, you began to actively expose images at domestic and international photographic salons with a lot of success, and as a result received an AFIAP distinction, and in 2012, fulfilled the requirements for EFIAP.

ZIYP: Do you remember your first photographs, what did they represent? ŽK: Like with most photographers, the first images were parents and family members in various situations, which in old age again become updated.

ZIYP: How often do you take photographs? ŽK: I still take pictures almost every day, especially now, in the age of digital photography, there is no special cost for it since you can immediately control the picture. As well, today, the digital camera can also shoot videos, in which my most frequent inspiration is my grandchildren.

ZIYP: And for the end, Zagreb then and now?

Allow me for this question to answer like a photographer - with two images: at the peripheral site of New Zagreb, in the 70s, during the last century, I photographed a "performance" bear, climbing a telephone pole and in the same place recently photographed a fairly boring image of a quiet street in a fully occupied part the city, which no longer is in the periphery and is often included in the so-called "dormitory" in Zagreb.

ZIYP: How important is it to love what you do? ŽK: In every job it is important for there to be satisfaction, and if along with that you are earning a good wage, then it's perfect.

ZIYP: Are there any photographs which you are particularly proud of? ŽK: That is the photo of an ice-rink from my first "processed" black and white film (negatives) from 1955, which I titled, "Joy on the Ice," won first prize at an award show , and afterwards a winter color-photo from my windowsill on the front page of this guide, and that's because most people like it, and because it is was accepted at many international FIAP exhibitions and won a gold medal.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Women Glances at Meštrović Atelier, Željko Krčadinac

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

pet lifestyle Walkies

Tanja Božić’s best friend Pupa Zagreb is not a bad city to bring your pets. It’s relatively small as metropolises go, and you’re never far away from green places. Although there are folks who turn up their noses at animals, there are more and more pet-friendly facilities and you’ll find a fair few people make a fuss of your furry friend. Here are a few tips for the best places to go.

Getting around You can take your dog on a bus or tram on weekends and public holidays between midnight and 06:00, and from 20:00 to midnight. Your dog has to be on a lead, wearing a muzzle, and be possessed of a certificate of health and a full-price ticket. All this means you might at times need a taxi.

Zoomobil Trpinjska 23, tel. (+385-1) 239 55 05/(+385) 098 935 53 33, zoomobil@net.amis.hr, www.zoomobil. hr. Q 35 - 70kn (Zagreb), 130 - 200kn (Zagreb surroundings).

Price for keeping cats and rabbits is 50kn/per day (hotel food is included in price description).

Zoo Taxi J-4, Vladimira Ruždjaka 20, tel. (+385-91) 449 99 72/( +385-92) 250 28 95, info@zoo-taxi.net, www.zoo-taxi.net. Zoo Taxi is specialized in transporting animals of all kinds.

Please note: although it’s only polite in urban areas to pick up your pooch’s poop, some areas of Zagreb are not equipped with bins for dog mess. Do take your own poo bags on walks since they are not provided. Though there are many parks and green areas in the city, the following are among the best for dog-walking: Cmrok and the Tuškanac wood. Cmrok is a huge grassy area close to woodland laced with pathways off the street named Tuškanac, just north of the city centre.

Maksimir Park and Zrinjevac. Maksimir Park and Zrinjevac in the city centre are handsome parks, but do keep your dog on a lead here and off grassy areas.

Mount Medvednica. Finally, for a really good run, you can’t beat a hike on the slopes of Mount Medvednica!

The Bundek Lake. Bundek is to the south of the Sava river: the eastern part of the park is less-frequented and dogs can enjoy freedom and exercise here.

The Sava Riverbank. Snaking east to west just south of the city centre, the River Sava has broad grassy banks the whole way with footpaths perfect for walking, running and cycling. There’s plenty of space and it’s fine to let your hound run free (so long as he’s well behaved).

Accomodation Several Zagreb hotels are happy to take four-legged guests as well as their owners. If you’re staying for longer, you shouldn’t have too much trouble renting an apartment, but do check with owners before you commit that they’re happy for your pet to stay too.

In case you are going away and need to leave Fido behind (sniff), there’s a growing number of pet hotels.

Ambulanta za male životinje i hotel outskirts, Vinobreška 20, Podsused, tel. (+385-1) 349 14 44/(+385-) 098 31 73 07, www.vet-versic.hr.

QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Price for keeping dogs is70kn/per day, 50kn/per day for cats.

Other animals(parrots,hamsters, guinea pigs...), price by arrangement. A Europansion G-4, Vrbje odvojak b.b., tel. (+385-) 099 456 36 66, ivana.calicradocaj@gmail.com, www.europansion.com. Q 80 - 100kn/day with food included in the price.

Ipon Saan outskirts, Purgarija 29a, Kerestinec, tel. (+385-) 098 194 67 01, zg@ipon-saan.com, www. ipon-saan.com. Q 70 - 90kn/day, no food included.

Karly outskirts, Slemenska 121, Horvati, Rakov potok, tel. (+385-1) 657 11 63/(+385-) 091 657 11 63, 099 657 11 63, info@odsveteklare.hr, www. karlyhotel.com. Q Price for keeping dogs is 110kn/per day, no food included.

Purger dog outskirts, Odvojak Zagrebačke bb, Rakitje, tel. (+385-) 098 24 60 60, purger-dog@ purger-dog.hr, www.purger-dog.com. Q 80 - 120kn/ day with food included in the price. You can also bring your dog’s food with you.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Tanja Božić’s best friend Pupa

Healthcare There are several highly-regarded veterinary clinics equipped with state-of-the-art surgical and lab equipment. Zagreb University’s Faculty of Medicine has clinics for all complaints and all types of animals, and for more serious problems you’ll probably be referred there.

Fiziovet J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 72, tel. (+385-1) 230 10 21, info@fiziovet.hr, www.fiziovet.hr. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Goldi E-2, Tomašićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 25, goldi_vet@hotmail.com, www.goldi-vet.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Klinike Veterinarskog fakulteta K-3, Heinzelova 55, tel. (+385-1) 239 01 11, www.vef.unizg.hr/org/klinike. htm. Q Open 24hrs.

Marković specijalističke veterinarske ambulante

J-3, I Pile 33, tel. (+385-1) 614 54 40/(+385-) 098 20 98 44, spec.vet.amb.markovic@inet.hr, w w w. specijalisticke-veterinarske-ambulante-markovic.hr. For an emergency call 098 20 98 44, 099 614 54 40 or 098 166 08 78 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova 68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86, klinika@vs-grada-zagreba. hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Pet Lifestyle School Time Ka dog, tel. (+385-) 095 511 86 95, info@ka-dog.hr,

www.ka-dog.hr. Positive reinforcement training. Call for an appointment. Q Open by prior arrangement.

KOSSP Zagreb H-5, Remetinečka cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 652 50 85, kossp@kossp.hr, www.kossp.hr.

Obedience training, agility, flyball... Q For more information Open Tue 18:00 - 19:00.

Vindor Prisavlje (next to Boćarski dom), tel. (+385-) 091 345 48 85/(+385-) 091 565 31 36, 092 218 45 51, skolavindor@gmail.com, www.skola-vindor.hr.

Clicker training

Shopping Tanja Božić’s best friend Pupa

Lonely Ones Dumovec (outskirts) Franjčevićeva 43, Dumovec,

tel. (+385-1) 200 83 54, azilzagreb@hotmail.com, www.azilzagreb.com. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 14:30 16:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00 (for visitors).

Noina Arka (outskirts) Dumovec, tel. (+385-1) 232 96 63/(+385-) 098 62 95 86, 091 321 46 96, info@noina-arka.hr, www.noina-arka.hr. Q Open 09:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:30.

Suza Gmajna 14, Rakitje, tel. (+385-1) 062 70 07 00, info@suza.hr, www.suza.hr. QOpen 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Dumovec Animal Rescue Sadly, in Zagreb, as in many other cities, dozens of pets are abandoned every day. Fortunately there is a whole army of individuals and groups working hard to save these animals and find them new homes. One of the groups doing that is the Dumovec rescue centre, which is especially active and creative in its efforts to get people to join in and help. One example is recruiting the help of some of Croatia’s most famous fashion designers to created “must-have” T-shirts: with long or short sleeves, in men’s, women’s and children’s styles. Some of the names involved include ELFS, Zoran Mrvoš and Juraj Zigman. This is a great way to get hold of their designs as prices are only 40-100kn. You can also buy accessories for your pets such as bowls, scarves, collars and more. Visit the web shop (http://www.azilzagreb.com/ Ducan.aspx), or why not call in at the Dumovec centre in person? You can help bring some cheer to our furry friends housed there, and might even be tempted take one home with you! Take bus no. 276 from Kvaternikov trg straight to Dumovec

Juraj Zigman

Zagreb In Your Pocket

You’ll probably be surprised at the range of pet shops in Zagreb which extends to some pretty big pet supermarkets.

Your pet can join you in Pet Centar branches so you can choose the perfect sweater or crystal-encrusted collar.

Purrrrr!

Dia-Vet G-3, Ilica 488, tel. (+385-1) 345 08 19, www. diavet.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Pet Centar Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 604 08 14, www.pet-centar.hr. Also at H-3, Drvinje 1, tel. (+385-1) 301 31 95. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. AL Zoo City H-5, Lanište 32 (Arena Centar), tel. (+385-1) 411 13 81, www.zoocity.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Dog Grooming Charli Baburičina 5, tel. (+385-) 098 73 08 74/(+385-)

095 510 39 20, milanzorman2@gmail.com, www.charlisalon.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00 and by prior appointment. Closed Sun. Nina’s J-6, Vladimira Varićaka 6, tel. (+385-1) 664 07 65/(+385-) 098 65 06 94, nkunic@yahoo.com, www. ninas.hr. Q Open by appointment.

Simba H-4, Koprivnička 52, tel. (+385-) 091 512 48 72, salonsimba@gmail.com, www.salon-simba.com.

Q Open by appointment.

Vavaland L-2, Avenija Dubrava 22, tel. (+385-1) 291 48 21/(+385-) 091 884 41 45, www.vavaland.hr. Q Open by prior arrangemet.

Animal Welfare Hotline 060 40 40 44 zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+3851) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Marko Plečko

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Zagreb for free 25.01 Friday

The Night of the Museums See all of the Zagreb’s museums free of charge 18:00 - 01:00!

Contemporary Art Museum. Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month.

Croatian Railway Museum. Entry to the Museum in Vukovarska bb is free. Call (+385-1) 378 28 62 and organise an English or Italian language guide.

Ethnographic Museum. Entry to the Museum is free every Thursday.

Handball tickets. Zagreb Handball Club is giving away free tickets for the Champions League. You can buy 4 tickets per person two days before the match at Zagreb Arena or one week before at the Roko Club & Lounge bar.

Follow the schedules in daily newspapers.

Paromlin Parking. Parking with 500 car spaces near the city centre (next to the main Train Station).

Relaxation and Yoga classes. Art Of Living runs free yoga classes every Wednesday at 19:30 in AOL Centre, Vranovina 28 and every Saturday at 19:00 in Mofit centre, Selska 81.

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story… Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies.

Living now in his sixth countr y, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com.QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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Business directory Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax

The protest march of employees in Education Željko Krčadinac

Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel.

4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank.

Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Business directory

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com Winter graphic, Željko Krčadinac

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

December 2012 - January 2013

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Street register

Our dear readers, In our final round of the photo competition ‘Be Local’ which started in April and concluded on November 20, the photo Watching the changing of the guard by Inna Grubmair won. On this occasion, we wish to congratulate all the winners once again and thank all those happy snappers who had participated in the competition. Your Zagreb In Your Pocket!

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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