Rijeka In Your Pocket No14

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2014

Follow the local’s tips Get the best of the city

Health tourism

Clinics, spas and a healing climate

rijeka.inyourpocket.com N°14 - Complimentary copy

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4 The editor’s choice on what not to miss this Summer

Nightlife

Introducing Rijeka

Sightseeing

5

Get to know our fair city

Arriving & Getting around

6 8 9 17 19 24

A taste of culture

Coffe & Cakes Grab a book and watch the world go by

49

Health Tourism

50

Shopping

56

We’ll help you get rid of that extra cash

From pork knuckle to tofu burgers

Local Flavour

Leisure

The cure for what ails you

Insider’s tips

Restaurants

43

Where is the beach?

You won’t be bored

Rijeka Pulse

Rijeka Surroundings Day tips galore

Things you need to know

Culture & Events

32

Check out the highlights

Lost? Help is at hand!

Basics

30

When you just gotta boogie

28

Hotels

59

Directory

61

Maps & Index Street index/ City centre map City map Country map

62-63 64-66 67

The surrounds of Učka Nature Park give nature and adventure lovers an abundance of opportunities to enjoy themselves. (Photo by photonet.hr)

Photo by Željko Karavida

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Summer 2014

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Foreword The city of Rijeka, which is known mostly as a port and industrial city, is slowly getting a facelift and gearing its services, which now more than ever includes the sea and its close vicinity, towards the everyday lives of the locals as well as its ever growing visitor numbers. Thus, whilst already having the image as the country’s ‘urban capital’ with a strong alternative rock scene part and parcel of the city, Rijeka now has social hot spots by the sea which are commonly associated with the Mediterranean. The city’s new look includes arranged beaches with top notch facilities and beach bars, and the Molo Longo promenade.For the complete riječko iskustvo (Rijeka experience), we asked five locals what it is that you should not miss while visiting. Our feature on local specialties and dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home.

In case you wish to escape the hustle of the city it is hugely advisable to visit the Kvarner islands or find shade in the lush green mountain region of Gorski kotar or Učka mountain.

Either way, nature’s serenity is aplenty! Speaking of nature, the entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become somewhat of a health destination due to its location and climate. A trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whilst also seeking specific medical treatments is rapidly growing.

Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art clinics in all medical treatments that are second to none and highly recommended. We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has to offer, making your stay your way!

In Your Pocket MobIle In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com.

It allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location.

Publisher E S S E N TI A L Plava Ponistra d.o.o., C Zagreb I TY G U I D E S ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Maja Knezić Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover © Kvarner Festival Archives Sales & Circulation Menager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year

by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

4

Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Introducing Rijeka

Photo by Dario Pirjak

A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from Italy, -you’ll tough time finding your way unless you Monokulise Zadarhave DanceaAnsamble

have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but “Fiume” – which means “river” in Italian. And guess what “rijeka” means in Croatian? River.

Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the reasons why this area was settled before Roman times – both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors.

What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely central to the personality and existence of Rijeka – bright, refreshing, life-giving and always moving on.

Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of “Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies.

The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint.

In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan, and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka – they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and fortifications on the coastline, as well as on Krk island itself.

Over the centuries that followed, various European powers gained influence over Rijeka and its surroundings, and facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

each left its mark. One of the most influential for the development of the city was the Austrian period, and many of Rijeka’s great buildings were designed by the same people that built the cities of that empire. Rijeka was connected to Vienna and Budapest by road and rail, and proclaimed a free port. These transport links contributed massively to the development of Rijeka as an industrial city. The city’s fortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reintegration into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split.

Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood for the city – the first, of course, is water itself.

Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day.

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Arriving & Getting Around By boat

By car

An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands.

The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.

From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka.

From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 60kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards.

From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.

Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres.QC-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Losinia Venezialines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 30 40/(+385-51) 23 10 77, losinia@losinia.hr, www.losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Rapska plovidba Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports.

QHrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, rapska-plovidba@ri.t-com.hr, www.rapska-plovidba.hr.

By bus Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left.

The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) QC-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10, prometnik@ autotrans.hr, www.autotrans.hr.

6 Rijeka In Your Pocket

By plane Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

Rijeka Airport QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40, 84 20 55/(+385-) 84 12 22, information@rijeka-airport.hr, www.rijeka-airport.hr.

By train Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need. Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window,open 05:10 - 20:40. You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it’s best to reserve in advance for international journeys. Left luggage: Lockers; 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1. Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station.

Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) QA-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around Public transport The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.

Autotrolej QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, autotrolej@autotrolej.hr, www.autotrolej.hr.

Taxi Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms. There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

Auto taxi Rijeka QN-1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 099 700 30 43.

Cammeo QR-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 12 12 (press 3), info-rijeka@taxi-cammeo.hr, www.taxi-cammeo.hr.

Kvarner taxi Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

Tourist Information Tourist Information Center QD-2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, info@ visitRijeka.hr, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Rijeka Tourist Board QD-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 31 57 10, rijeka@ visitRijeka.hr, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kvarner County Tourism Office QN.Tesle 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 29 88, kvarner@kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic QČikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+38551) 62 88 88, info@kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr. June 14 - September 20 Open 08:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty QC-2, Riva 22, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-51) 33 79 17, rijeka@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Hertz QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Working hours dependent on flight schedule. A

Parking Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna per hour.

Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

Travel Agencies Goya Travel QC-2, Ciottina 5, tel. (+385-51) 25 89 75, info@ goyatravel.com, www.goyatravel.com. Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Travelana QD-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 21 27 80/(+38551) 33 65 62, travelana@ri.t-com.hr, www.travelana.hr.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Summer 2014

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Basics Safety You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night.

Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

Smoking Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

8 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

Visas Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

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Culture & Events

Festival Kvarner Archives

exhIbItIons 29.05 THURSDAy - 26.08 TUeSDAy SEA, SToNE, CITy A big call to art addicts with a wonderful exhibition of nearly sixty paintings dating from the mid 19th to the second half of the 20th century. The primary theme is landscapes from the Rijeka and the Primorje region authored mostly by local painters. The exhibition is divided into three categories displaying seascapes, ships and sailors, followed by small coastal towns, and cityscapes of Rijeka to conclude.QD-1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11, info@muzej-rijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

26.06 THURSDAy - 18.07 FRiDAy CSABA NEMES: IN THE NAME oF THE FATHER One ne of Hungary’s resounding contemporary artists with an international reputation! Csaba devotes his new series of paintings to his father who took up photography as a hobby in the 60s and 70s. Csaba uses these as his inspiration to present his version of the many photos taken of his family, childhood, political influences and surroundings.

QC-2, C-2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/ii, www.mmsu.hr.

26.06 THURSDAy - 18.07 FRiDAy JIRI kovANDA Prominent rominent conceptual artist from Prague who has since the 70s drawn public attention due to his performances, installations, paintings, collages, prints and drawings! The Rijeka audience is privileged to see a major part of his opus.QD-2, QD-2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, www.mmsu.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

21.07 MONDAy - 02.08 SATURDAy STRuGGLING CITIES: JAPANESE uRBAN PRoJECTS IN THE 1960S The 60s was a flourishing time for Japanese architecture and through the use of multi-media, models, animations and audiovisual templates, experimental ideas were examined and this exhibit presents the characteristics of some of the cities under the rising sun.QC-2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/ii, www. mmsu.hr.

06.08 WeDNeSDAy - 01.09 MONDAy yIN yANG From working in dusty and dangerous mines, Ying Yang would copy comics and art books after a hard day’s work.

Low and behold, as a hobby turned into a profession, change of workplace and so on, his sketches, paintings and works of the contemporary nature soon turned heads worldwide.QC-2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/ii, www.mmsu.hr.

02.09 TUeSDAy - 13.09 SATURDAy CRoATIA FRoM THE AIR See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and photographer Davor Rastuhar. National Geographic gave it the thumbs up with photos of natural and cultural landmarks aplenty. Touring exhibitions in the open will also be set in the Korzo.QD-2, Korzo, www. hrvatskaizzraka.com.

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Culture & Events 05.09 Friday - 12.09 Friday Friends of the sea This open air exhibition will display 60 big format art photographs from the 60s, with the theme being, ‘Life on the Croatian Adriatic,’ and will show local and foreign visitors works by Ante and Zvonimir Brkan, Joso Špralja, Tošo Dabac, Nikola Vučemilović, Milan Pavić, Mladen Grčević, Nenad Gattin, Alojz Orel, Đuro Griesbach, Ivo Tolić, Andro Damjanić, Fernando Soprano, Marija Braut, Zlata Laura Mizner, Igor Emili, Viktor Hreljanović, Mladen Tudor...

QD-2, Korzo, www.prijateljimora.com.

Special events 04.07 Friday - 06.07 Sunday Liburnia Jazz Festival The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 13 concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!QOpatija, www.liburniajazz.hr.

15.07 Tuesday - 13.09 Saturday Summer on Gradina Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy four plays, eight concert performances, five different themed events and seven conceptual events which are the new on Gradina and will be shown from a new perspective. The titles of programs such as Titanic and the Light Transfromation of Gradina sound exciting, don’t they?QR-2, www.trsatskagradina.com.

01.08 Friday - 04.08 Monday Kastav Blues Festival Craving a little blues this summer! You’ll witness performances by some amazing Croatian and international blues performers. The event is held annually in honour of the USA country-blues musician Jerry Ricks who chose Kastav as his home and final resting place. By all admission, it’s free admission!

QKastav, kastavbluesfest.com.

26.08 Tuesday - 30.08 Saturday The 12th Liburnia Film Festival One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Ičići port near Opatija last year to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike!

QIčići port, info@liburniafilmfestival.com, www. liburniafilmfestival.com. All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.

01.09 Monday - 05.09 Friday Festival Kvarner – ‘Purpur’ A European Opera Sound Extraordinary concerts in unordinary yet memorable venues. This EU funded event combines talented young European musicians with renowned singers and orchestras. See a remake of Haydn’s Armida and Orlando Paladino, to a fusion of musical genres where Klezmer meets Balkan rythmns, and Irish Folk meets Tango.

Where else but in Opatija!

QOpatija, www.festivalkvarner.com.

Photo by Davor Rastuhar, Croatia from the air exhibition

10 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events rijeka summer nights (riječke ljetne noći) Rijeka Summer Nights Archives

Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation. www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com 01.07 Tuesday Grand opening ceremony of Rijeka Summer Nights 2014 Photo Exhibition opening and promotion of a photomonography A Rijeka Summer Night’s Dream at 20:30. Author: Voljen Grbac. Lobby of HNK Ivan noble Zajc, Uljarska 3A Theatre “A” (Poland): Genesis Street performance at 21:30.Corso (Republic of Croatia Square) 03.07 Thursday Saxophone & Piano concert Lidija Mravunac Fabijanić (piano) and Nikola Fabijanić (saxophone).QR-2, Cloister of the Convent in Trsat.

Concert starts at 21:00.

04.07 friday Stravinsky and Mozart in a Single Breath The Rijeka Philharmonic Orchestra Concert. Conductor: Nada Matošević Orešković, soloist: Filip Fak (piano).QF-1, Former paper mill Hartera. Concert starts at 21:30.

07.07 Monday The Rucner String Quartet Concert Etno Music Box QR-2, Cloister of the Convent in Trsat. Concert starts at 21:30.

09.07 wednesday P. Mascagni: Cavalleria Rusticana Opera of HNK Ivan noble Zajc.Conductor: Nada Matošević Orešković Director: Ozren ProhićQE-2, Grivica Square (in front of St. Vitus’ Cathedral). facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

10.07 Thursday The Rijeka Philharmonic Orchestra and Rijeka’s Rock Stars Concert by Rijeka Philharmonic Orchestra with Croatian Musicians Union. Conductor: Igor Vlajnić. Vocals: Damir Urban, Zoran Prodanović Prlja, Dean Škaljac and Žanil Tataj Žak.QF-1, Former paper mill Hartera. Starts at 21:30.

11.07 Friday Frane Đurović: My name is nobody - a dance performance Co-production with input from Music Biennale Zagreb and HNK Varaždin. Choreographer: Massimiliano Volpini QFormer paper mill Hartera. Starts at 21:30.

15.07 Tuesday The Power of Guitar Concert in collaboration with the Croatian Musicians Union.Guitar players: Elvis Stanić, Darko Jurković Charlie, and Zoran Majstorović.QPrincipium. Starts at 21:30.

17.07 Thursday Ultimate ABBA Croatian Radiotelevision Jazz Orchestra. Legendary Swedish group ABBA’s hits, arranged for jazz, on the 70th anniversary of their everlasting success. Conductor: Saša Nestorović. Soloist: Lasse Lindgren.QR-2, Our Lady of Trsat Garden. Starts at 21:30.

22.07 Tuesday Zagreb Quartet Sergej Evseev and Davor Philips (violin), Hrvoje Philips (viola) and Martin Jordan (cello).QR-2, Cloister of the Convent in Trsat. Starts at 21:30.

23.07 Wednesday - 24.06 Tuesday Don Juan - a dance performance Co-production with input from Ballet of HNK Ivan noble Zajc - Rijeka Summer Nights festival, Bitef theatre from Belgrade, Budva Theatre City festival, and Maša Kolar. Choreographer: Maša Kolar.QF-1,Former paper mill Hartera.

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Culture & Events 26.07 Saturday The Bambi Molesters Croatian surf-rock band that have gained international acclaim from playing at the New Zealand Festival to countries across Europe! Upon the release of their new album ‘As the dark wave swells’, the band performs to their devoted fans with what is always a vigorous and jubilant gig.

16.08 Saturday Massimo One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice.

23.08 Saturday Jinx One of Croatia’s leading commercial pop bands. Having formed in 1993, they have topped charts on numerous times with even their first album ‘Sextasy’, released in English. One can expect a laid back, funky catchy gig with flair and groove.

Louis Bonilla, Liburnia Jazz Festival

kastav cultural summer (Kastafsko kulturno leto) 06.06. FRIDAY - 29.08. FRIDAY From its beginnings in the 90’s when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other art fields and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. Culture at its finest! www.kkl.hr 14.07 Monday - 19.07 Saturday Guitar Festival There are few things sweeter then gift of music, played by artisans and wunderkinds, and so let us talk of the Guitar Festival. This year’s event sees Damir Kukuruzović’s Django Group, rock legend Branko Bogunović Pif, and Zoran Majstorović’s Atma Mundi project which is a jazz odyssey focused around world and ethno music and performed on 40 different string and percussion instruments. For those hoping to someday mimic their idols, Zoran Majstorović will host a guitar workshop which will work with themes and concepts such as rhythm, harmony, melody, improvisation, and technique.

23.07 Wednesday - 25.07 Friday Kino Mediteran A film frenzy will engulf the coast this summer as Split’s traditional Film Festival will be moving to 20 towns and cities in a project entitled ‘Mediterranean Cinema’. For all details on dates and visiting programmes, visit www.fmfs. hr.Qwww.fmfs.hr.

12 Rijeka In Your Pocket

opatija summer stage (Ljeto na Ljetnoj) Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers such as Noa and Gibonni.

05.07 Saturday Noa An Israeli jazz singer most famous for her 1997 song, ‘Life is beautiful’ and who also represented Israel at the 2009 Eurovision Song Contest. Her beautiful expressive voice and unique sound ties deeply with Jewish Yemenite roots, enchanting and deep!

21.07 Monday Kool & the Gang This may show out your age but many may recall the 80s hits in ‘Celebration’, ‘Cherish’, ‘Fresh’ and ‘Get down on it’.

These chart topping songs were from the famous American soul, funk and disco group Kool and the Gang. Still cool, still going strong.

22.07 Tuesday Gala Ballet Evening After five years of absence, ballet finally returns to Opatija’s summer stage. The world’s biggest stars from famous ballet theatres such as the Marinsky Theatre of St. Petersburg, the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow and the National Ballet of London will have a joint performance of scenes from some of the world’s best known ballet masterpieces.QStarts at 21:30. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kastav Blues Festival Archives

Culture & Events

county events 20.06 Friday - 05.08 Tuesday The Margaret’s Summer A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar‘s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Venetians attacked the town.QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr.

Zaz

05.07 Saturday - 28.09 Sunday The Greats of Croatian Naïve Art to delight! Naïve art is a distinctive Croatian art form and this exhibition features paintings by some of the greatest national naïve artists from the 20th century, Kovačić, Lacković, Rabuzin, Generalić, just to mention some. Countryside scenes, forgotten nature, farming, working peasants and the joys of life are common themes. Freedom of creative imagination!QInfeld Gallery, Dobrinj, Krk Island, www.tzo-dobrinj.hr. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

No admission.

26.07 Saturday Perpetuum Jazzile Music without instruments, how so? This famous acapella choir from Slovenia produces up-beat, dynamic, harmonised performances as they sing and imitate musical instruments only trough voice. Their rich repertoire of pop, jazz, gospel, and blues ranges Billy Joel to Lady Gaga just to name a few. A must see!

30.07 Wednesday New York Voices A Grammy award winning jazz quartet that intertwines R&B, classical, pop, Brazilian and American jazz to their inspiring arrangements! With seven albums, their virtuoso vocal blends ought to make for an unforgettable musical experience.

14.08 Thursday Marko Tolja Dubbed as Croatia’s Michael Buble, this young musician is not only a great singer and performer, but a heartthrob amongst female members of the audience. His musical repertoire will be a personal tribute to the festival, and include Tolja’s original songs and world evergreens.

30.08 Saturday Gibonni Croatia’s captain of musicianship, a singer who oozes soft rock, melody, and soul with his typical Dalmatian roots.

14 Rijeka In Your Pocket

11.07 Friday Cultural and artistic evening at St.Barbara’s Square Keeping the spirit alive! This is the one day that all the locals of Kostrena, and in particular it’s village of St. Barbara gather to keep the tradition alive. As always, a plentiful of concerts and exhibitions will be held with special mention of an exhibition of unique artworks by the local associations ‘Veli pinel’ and ‘Vali’.QKostrena, www.tzokostrena.hr.

cinemas Art-kino Croatia Devoted to art cinema, Art-kino hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. Open-air cinema screenings from June 18th through August 3rd.QA-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-51) 32 32 61, info@art-kino.org, www.art-kino.org. Box office Open an hour before the first show. Closed August 04 - September 18.

CineStar Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the cinema are ‘love seats’ - double seats undivided by arm rests which are perfect for canoodling couples.QS-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Box office open an hour before the first projection.

www.inyourpocket.com rijeka.inyourpocket.com

www.legendfest.hr

Pićan I 1.- 3. 8. 2014.

9. FESTIVAL NARODNIH PRIČA, LEGENDI I MITOVA ISTRE

Ilustrator: Ivan Gregov

9th FESTIVAL OF ISTRIA FOLK TALES, LEGENDS AND MYTHS

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Summer 2014

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Culture & Events 12.07 Saturday - 13.07 Sunday Ethno Selce The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots and are proud to present their cultural heritage through authentic products and dishes, national dances and old costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the energy, the past!QSelce, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

13.07 Sunday Klape on the piazza The stone houses, the red rooftops, the green pine trees, the rocking boats and the deep blue sea are all the heart of the Mediterranean. But the one thing that is missing is klape, a capella singing out in the open. Spine tingling groups of local singers performing traditional coastal songs, this is the icing on the cake. In front of the parish church! Kicks off at 21.30.QMali Lošinj, Lošinj Island, www.tz-malilosinj.hr.

18.07 Friday Samba Festival 2014 As the name itself suggests, Rajska plaža in Lopar is truly a heavenly beach that bears a striking resemblance to the famous Copacabana Beach in Brazil, so it’s only natural that a lively Brazilian dance - the Samba - is the main feature of this exciting festival which attracts international Samba teams and thousands of visitors each year. Parties last till the morning sun!QLopar, Rab Island, www.lopar.com.

19.07 Saturday - 20.07 Sunday Ad Turres Days See a vivid and picturesque reconstruction of Roman times as it used to be in ancient Crikvenica. Age old crafts such as pottery, stone masonry and basket making plus displays of jewellery, music, dances, and hairstyles can be seen. Partake in workshops on how to make wreaths, mosaics…QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

20.07 Sunday - 24.08 Sunday The 39th Osor Musical Evenings Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for the Osor Musical Evenings. This year’s event marks 100

years since the birth of the famous Croatian composers Stjepan Šulek and Natko Devčić.QOsor, Lošinj Island, www.osorskeveceri.org.

25.07 Friday Kostrena Night The Žurkovo Bay sparkles under the sky in July as it becomes the place of entertainment, culture and local culinary delights. Local artists exhibit and sell their artworks and souvenirs whilst restaurants present their traditional rich dishes.QKostrena, www.tzo-kostrena.hr.

25.07 Friday - 27.07 Sunday Lošinj Jazz Festival This festival is the perfect summer musical event that will once again see performances by some of the world’s most renowned jazz musicians as well as national jazz icons.

One tip, don’t miss the after parties!QMali Lošinj, Lošinj Island, www.tz-malilosinj.hr.

08.08 Friday - 10.08 Sunday The 490th Lovrečeva – Krk Fair Can you believe that this fair began way back in 1524 in celebration of the Feast of Saint Lawrence, patron to the island of Krk. Once a Roman province, the Kamplin Square will serve as the main stage as it unfolds age old traditions; hear and see tales of the Frankopan noble family and pirate voyages, Roman legionnaire re-enactments, Glagolitic chants, medieval dances, jousting and more.

Qwww.tz-krk.hr.

09.08 Saturday - 10.08 Sunday Crikvart Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face!QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

07.09 Sunday The 8th Učka’s Fair Looking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastronomy and ethnological heritage.QUčka Nature Park, Poklon, www.pp-ucka.hr.

Lopar Tourist Board Archives

16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Pulse We asked five locals - who live or work in Rijeka- to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Saša Cestar Chef and cooking instructor who uses the principles of macrobiotics, www.sasacestar.com

Lovran Tourist Board Archives

RIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in the city?

Saša: Of all the places I like to go, I love sitting on the terrace of the cafe ‘Celtic Bard’ on Grivica Square. This is the place that impresses me most with its general atmosphere and the beauty of the square fits perfectly. The staff on deck is an extra plus. Saint Vid’s Cathedral is a stone throw away and offers another breathtaking view.

RIYP: Recommendations for the beach?

Saša: The beach at Pećine. It is somewhat smaller but it has retained its natural beauty as opposed to the larger public beaches, and the experience is much better!

RIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Saša: The tower on Trsat. Although it is one of the most visited tourist landmarks in town, somehow the atmosphere there always remains calm and pleasant. The view exposes Rijeka in its entirety. This place always amazes me!

Photo by Željko Jerneic

RIYP: What should visitors take from Rijeka as a souvenir?

Saša: Perhaps nothing materialistic. I'd recommend immersing yourselves into the city and its rhythm and life. Feel free to meet the locals who are really friendly which to me can be the most beautiful experience in Rijeka, a memory to carry back with them.

RIYP: Tips for visitors when trying the local specialties?

Saša: Take enough time to treat yourself with an excellent manestra in the mountain hut at the Učka Nature Park!

Photo by photonet.h

Dorja Bogović Press officer at the Croatian National Theatre RIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in the city?

Dorja: Celtic Bard Cafe, right next to the Cathedral of St.Vid. RIYP: Recommendations for the beach?

Dorja: One of the many beaches at Pećine (Glavanovo, Grčevo) facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Summer 2014

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Photo by www.visitrijeka.hr

Rijeka Pulse

area of Grobnik is not exactly Rijeka, it is not too far away and would I try the cheese, curd and burek from there, especially after a night out.

Silvia Novak Festival Kvarner Manager

RIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Dorja: Walk through Vladimir Nazor Park.

RIYP: What should visitors take from Rijeka as a souvenir?

Dorja: Morčić, one of the most recognisable symbols of Rijeka which is incorporated into all kinds of jewellery.

RIYP: Tips and visitors when trying the local specialties?

Dorja: You have to try the fresh fish, shellfish and seafood in Konoba Feral or at the historical restaurant Zlatna Školjka.

Nebojša Trajković

RIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out of town?

Silvia: Cukarikafe.

RIYP: Recommendations for the beach?

Silvia: Brseč (especially out of season) RIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Silvia: Učka – the forest.

RIYP: What should visitors take from Rijeka as a souvenir?

Silvia: Pag cheese.

RIYP: Tips for visitors when trying local specialties?

Silvia: Kvarner scampi.

Tunel Club Manager

Zorka Ćubelić

RIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in the city?

Nebojša: Definitely ‘Tunel’ because of the continuous gigs and good music in the evenings and at night, but also the cool terrace for coffee and rakija during the day. A close second is ‘Život’ for a long night out.

Head of membership and touring jobs

RIYP: Recommendations for the beach?

Nebojša: Definitely in the eastern part of the city as the sun there remains significantly longer in the horizon. If one wants to be alone then choose the diving centre on Kostrena or some of the beaches on the eastern cliffs. The beach at Pećine near Pajol, but not so much for the beach itself as for Pajol.

RIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Nebojša: Kastav of course, the forest and trails for recreation around Kastav or any beach in the winter.

RIYP: What should visitors take from Rijeka as a souvenir?

Nebojša: A CD featuring a Rijeka artist or band (Father), Rijeka water, the best in Croatia and ‘Što da?’ Meaning something like ‘Really?’ it has become a catch phrase that has crept into common lingo!

RIYP: Tips for visitors when trying local specialties?

Nebojša: Škura pogača - brown bread from Rijeka with seafood and anchovies from Kvarner. And even though the 18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Lado - Dances from Boka

RIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in Rijeka?

Zorka: My favourite and most comfortable place for coffee is cafe Dnevni boravak. Surrounded with CDs, vinyl and books, just as the name says, it has a pleasant homey atmosphere.

RIYP: Recommendations for the beach?

Zorka: Ploče Beach in the western part of the city - Kantrida. The newly built town beach with a blue flag also has indoor and outdoor pools close by, as well as a variety of restaurants.

RIYP: What is your secret place to escape the crowds?

Zorka: I escape to Molo Longo (breakwater) where in the space of two kilometres there is the blue sea on one side, and on the other side a beautiful view which provides peace and rest to one’s soul and body.

RIYP: What should visitors take from Rijeka as a souvenir?

Zorka: I think the panoramic photos of Rijeka from Molo Longo. Personally captured, this should remain the fondest memory of Rijeka to any visitor.

RIYP: Tips for visitors when trying local specialties?

Zorka: Make sure to try the fish dishes and do not leave before trying potato polenta with Grobnik cheese. Konoba Borik. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Chinese Peking You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP-3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34. Open 11:30 - 23:30. (25 119kn). PALGXW

Croatian Konoba Municipium Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 100kn). PAGW Konoba Nebuloza Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches.The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrianstyle sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, info@konobanebuloza.com, www.konobanebuloza.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 130kn). PAGW

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Photo by Saša Cestar

Peking Wok Newly opened at the western end of Korzo, near the fountains and Erste Bank, a stone’s throw from the bus station.

Enjoy an extensive menu of traditional, authentic Chinese dishes in comfortable surroundings for every occasion from business meetings, family celebrations, weddings, or a simple romantic evening out.QC-2, Jadranski trg 4/C, tel. (+385-51) 41 08 88. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 95kn).

PAGBXW

Ronjgi In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome.

QRonjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, guido@ ronjgi.com.hr, www.ronjgi.com.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 80kn). PALGBX Šmrika A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato’ plus many more wines.QMarčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. (+385-51) 65 10 20, smrika@ smrika.hr, www.smrika.hr. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (50 - 100kn). PTA6LGBW Summer 2014

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Restaurants Konoba Blato In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 70kn). PAG Girica Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, iva_zec@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn). PALGW

Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

International Kamov Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.

QC-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 110kn). PALGW Sorriso Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/(+385-) 091 271 10 66.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. (25 - 60kn). PGBXW Spagho This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar. With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre.QE-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (29 - 160kn). PAGBXW 20 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Ive This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (18 - 60kn).

ALGBXW Tarsa The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria.

QR-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89, rojan@ri.t-com.hr. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn).

PAULGBW

Out of town Bistro Yacht Club A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour - enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try. Friendly and comfortable.QZert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, info@yacht-club-opatija.com, www.yacht-club-opatija.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 130kn). PAGBXW Bracera This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, info@konoba-bracera. com, www.konoba-bracera.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

(27 - 300kn). PNGBXW rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Commodore A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska bb, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49, domicil@ri.t-com.hr, www.restoran-commodore.hr.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 360kn). PALGBXW

Konoba Ribice As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat.QUlica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01. Open 18:00 - 01:00. (30 - 70kn). NGBX

Draga di Lovrana Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 27 76 89, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www.dragadilovrana.hr.

Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn).

PALGBXW

Lavrvs Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign.QNova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 13 55, laurus@villa-kapetanovic.hr, www. villa-kapetanovic.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 145kn).

PALGBXW

Gastro World This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00 (35125kn). PABW Gospoja Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja. hr, www.gospoja.hr. April - October 30 Open 10:00 23:00. (40 - 180kn). PALGBXW Istranka A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, comeprima@inet.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGBXW Konoba Nada If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www. nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 22:00.

(70 - 270kn). PALGBXW facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Lovranska vrata With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town, directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities.QTrg Sv Jurja 94, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 10 50, josipsandra@net.hr. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

PAGBXW Mala riba This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, info@mala-riba.com, www.malariba.com. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (65 - 95kn). PABW Mali raj Part of a large and upscale guesthouse overlooking the sea, the “little heaven” restaurant offers a huge choice of excellent seafood and meat dishes and good pizzas. Prices are rather reasonable, and the terrace is gorgeous.QMaršala Tita 191, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 74/(+385-) 091 470 40 74, info@mali-raj.hr, www.mali-raj.hr. Open 10:00 24:00. (70 - 200kn). ALGBXW NaJade Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QMaršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX Plavi podrum A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/ (+385-) 098 25 75 73, dkramari@inet.hr, www.plavipodrum. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). AGB Summer 2014

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Restaurants Sv. Jakov A beautiful space within the 5 star Hotel Milenij, Sveti Jakov wisely offers a small selection of dishes with local accents, beautifully prepared, at surprisingly sensible prices.QPava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PALGBW

Pampas A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. Open 10:00 23:00. (27- 65kn). PVNGBXSW

Villa Ariston The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it.QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villa-ariston.hr. Open 12:00 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PALGBXW

Buffet Cocco Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB-2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50.

Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 110kn). ABW

Volos Not a common place for a restaurant in Opatija but do not let that deter you because their kitchen is ‘yummy’.

Crispy homemade bread, gnocchi and pasta accompanied by various sauces, Mediterranean fish dishes and fine desserts such as tiramisu and semifreddo. Daily specials add to the spontaneity!QStubište Lipovica 2 (Marino Cvetković Sports Hall), Opatija. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 105kn). AB

Pizza Bracera A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 110kn). PA6GBXW Kokolo On the road leading west from Rijeka towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for hours.QL-2, Zametska 58, tel. (+385-51) 26 33 94, www.kokolo.hr.

Open 09:00 - 22:45, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:45. (20 - 180kn).

PAGBXSW Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

Quick Eats

Hamby Fast food but not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including soya - and pizza cuts. This Hamby at the train station does pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too.

Lifesaving!QE-2, Ante Starčevića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 06 53. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (8 - 25kn). GB Mornar Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch. Mornar (“the sailor”) serves mainly meat dishes, plus a few fish specialities. Try lamb lešo - cooked with vegetables - or barbecued smoked ribs.QD-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-) 091 257 12 03.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (15 - 45kn). PALGBSW

Seafood Feral Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, info@konoba-feral. com, www.konoba-feral.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 23:00. (23 350kn). PAGBXSW Na kantunu Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices.

A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables, but clean and comfortable nonetheless. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community.QE-3, Demetrova 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 71, na.kantunu@email.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXSW Zlatna školjka In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, Zlatna Školjka has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city’s classiest restaurants. The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations.QC-2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385-51) 21 37 82, zlatna.skoljka@ri.t-com.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 90kn). PAGBXW

22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

vegetArIAn kLuB MAkRovEGA Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.Qe-2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45, makrovega.rijeka@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 25kn). PNG PRIRoDA I DRušTvo JuICE&SMooTHIE BAR This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say. The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver.

Qe-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 731 70 22, prirodaidrustvo@rocketmail.com, www. prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. NGBXW facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

TIFAN BISTRo Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found 3pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers - not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, info@tifan.hr, www.tifan.hr. Open 06:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (10 - 40kn). PA6GBW

MexIcAn MExICAN CANTINA BoDEGA What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant!

One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good.

The locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.Qe - 3, ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59, bodegarijeka@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). PAGBXW

instagram.com/croatiaiyp Summer 2014

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Ravna Gora Tourist Board Archives

Krk Tourist Board Archives

Local Flavour

Photo by Saša Cestar

Culinary Events 05.07 Saturday - 06.07 Sunday Žlahtina Festival Two days, two themes, and one aim - to gather and celebrate! Day one draws winemakers from the entire island of Krk as it hosts an Open Wine Cellars Day with Vrbnik vintners presenting the žlahtina wine sort, a white dry wine made from the indigenous variety žlahtina bijela, a wine unique to the island. Day two is entitled Razgon, which is the name given to the last day of the milking of sheep and their release to free grazing. One can step back in time with featured old crafts, folklore dancing and local authentic products.QVrbnik, Krk Island.

12.07 Saturday The 16th Blueberry Day One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the knowhow of this fruit through educational workshops and in the afternoon, all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other traditional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass orchestra band will perform.QRavna Gora.

13.07 Sunday - 20.07 Sunday Šurlice Days Feeling peckish! For one entire week restaurants on the island of Krk are offering special dishes made with šurlice pasta and prepared in various ways. On the two Sunday evenings, a small fair of local products as well as a musical programme will accompany the event.QVrbnik, Krk Island.

24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

23.08 Saturday - 30.08 Saturday Fishermen’s Week Everything is fishy here, and on a positive note! Started in 1966, a plethora of exhibitions, workshops, concerts, folk dances, sporting competitions and culinary festivities where locals prepare traditional fish dishes never cease to amaze.QCrikvenica.

29.08 Friday - 30.08 Saturday Wine Days of the island of Krk - Vrbnik 2014 Famous for its excellent wines, it is not surprising that numerous wine events will be celebrated on Krk this summer.

One such event is Wine Days that will encompass some major wine tasting as well as a sales exhibition of wines and local products. Lectures on wine will also be held for the hearty, and all this is topped off by a homely cultural programme.QVrbnik, Krk Island.

05.09 Friday - 07.09 Sunday Fig Days If you’re on Krk around the begenning of September, this festival gives you the chance to sample and buy all kinds of food and drink based on the sweet, sweet fig in its fresh and dried forms.QVele Placa and restaurants around town, Krk, Krk Island.

13.09 Saturday - 14.09 Sunday The 16th Mushroom Days The Ravna Forest blossoms with mushrooms and visitors interested in mushroom picking are free to attend. Day rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour one includes a mushroom exhibition and a mushroom goulash cooking comp. Day two will be the highlight with an omelette made of 1000 eggs and mushrooms served.

Eat up!QRavna Gora.

Demetra’s Green Corner Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Demetra’s Green Corner (Demetrin zeleni kutak) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. The market is open once per month so please check its Facebook page regularly. There you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

QA-1, Milana Butkovića 2.

Food Markets Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers.

The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age.

In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce.

For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood.

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs.

In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads.

But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen.

Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs.

Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden…

Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…

Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Lošinj Tourist Board Archives

Summer 2014

25

Lovran Tourist Board Archives

Local Flavour Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you’re in town in the winter.

And let’s not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries.

With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with the morning’s gossip. This is where you can feel the beating heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It’s the real Rijeka.

Floating market Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

Local Dishes

Lovran Tourist Board Archives

the 41st marunada Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October celebration since they are featured in every meal and event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets made with maruni (turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts, rump-steak in chestnut sauce, chestnut icecream, frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). Things turn really nutty with a series of events including a bocce tournament, a bicycle race, the hiking race Učka Vertical, an old timers car show and a fishing competition.

11.10 SATURDAY - 12.10 SUNDAY MARUNADA Liganj 18.10 SATURDAY LOVRAN FAIR Lovran 18.10 SATURDAY - 19.10 SUNDAY MARUNADA Dobreć 24.10 FRIDAY - 26.10 SUNDAY MARUNADA Lovran 25.10 SATURDAY 2ND UČKA VERTICAL 2014 GIRO DI MARUNADA bicycle race MARUNADA 2014 mountaineering excursion 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism pages (pp.51-57); here we’ll focus on the gastronomy of the region. Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind. Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime. This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild rijeka.inyourpocket.com

www.tonkamlijeko.pikrijeka.hr

Local Flavour

My mom chooses only Tonka for me.

Just like the good old days...

HOME-MADE MILK FROM THE PASTURES OF GORSKI KOTAR, ISTRIA AND LIKA

herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68). Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic. On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir. Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals.

This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out. In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic.

Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it. On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three.

Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.

Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankofacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

pan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight. Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels. Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel.

Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites.

Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

Summer 2014

27

Coffe & Cakes and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the VBZ bookshop which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.QD-2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:00 - 23:00. J6NGBXW Iskra Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac - both gutsy southern reds.QD-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 14:00. PNGBXW Kosi toranj Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE-2, Pul Vele crikve 1, tel. (+38551) 33 62 14. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 24:00. PNBXW

Cafes Cukarikafe The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want?QD-2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 82 76, cukarikafe.bar@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA6G� BXW Dnevni boravak For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB-1, Ciottina 12a, dnevniboravak.ri@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00.

Ferrari It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia.QD-2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PNBX Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks 28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Laval Right in front of the ferry terminal, a classy café with a shady terrace and an excellent wine list.QD-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 88 82. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. P6NBXW Mali Cafe One of the nicest cafes, right on trendy Korzo, all sophisticated in black and white.QD-2, Korzo 18a, tel. (+38551) 33 56 06/(+385-) 091 253 79 12, silviomalicafe@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PJNBXW Picasso Lively and often spinning house music for the kids, Picasso is bright, clean, air-conditioned and has a dual-purpose terrace for supping coffee and slurping Ledo ice cream.

QE-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 1a, tel. (+385-51) 31 54 16, oss@inet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

PNBXW Piramida A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.QF-2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37 11 81. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNXW Voyager Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super (air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink or snack.QA-1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 78 95.

Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 22:00. PN� BXW rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffe & Cakes Opatija Cafes Café Wagner Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescentshaped terrace whatever the weather.QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, info@ milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 07:00 24:00. PALGBW Choco bar Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant - in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-and-coffeetype drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolate-plus-hardliquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box.QMaršala Tita 94, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62, chocobaropatija@kras. hr, www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. September Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW Design hotel Astoria One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails.

QUlica maršala Tita 174, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, info@ hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. Open 07:00 23:00. PALGBW Palme Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+38551) 70 63 18, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotel-bristol. hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW

Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

small plates and sweet treats Choco bar Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco.QD-2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, chocobarrijeka@kras.hr, www. kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 22:00. PJAGBXW Cont A multitude of original cakes and ice creams are prepared on-site in the historic patisserie of the Hotel Continental. Imperial elegance rules inside, while the terrace has a wonderful view over Tito’s Square and the new bridge.QF-1, Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića 1, tel. (+385-51) 58 77 71, dolcebolero.ri@gmail.com, www. dolcebolero.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PGBW Dolce Bolero A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brick-red walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionary assault.

QD-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 03 43, dolcebolero.ri@gmail.com, www.dolcebolero.hr.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB Slatko by Piko This is the first Piko outlet dedicated solely to those with a sweet tooth. They offer a myriad of cakes, pastries, tarts, desserts and fancies. You can even order your own custom made cake for your special celebrations via a unique terminal in the shop. Ingenious!QKorzo 33b, tel. (+385-51) 58 55 44, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.

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Nightlife Bars Arca Fiumana This elderly boat, moored on the waterfront, is enjoying an active retirement as a konoba. It has a double life, however, as on weekend evenings it doubles as a lounge bar and nightclub, playing soft rock and house music.

QC-2/3, Adamićev gat bb, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 84, arcafiumanakonoba@gmail.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 06:00. B Bačva Another multipurpose place where visitors can enjoy sipping on coffee, as well as make the most of pleasant evening socialising with intimate live performances, poetry readings, rock concerts and other events. Very cosy type urban atmosphere!QC-2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385-1) 551 01 95, bacva@urbana-galerija.eu. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. B Champagne bar Pommery Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife.

Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the locals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be seen.

QD-2, Korzo 33. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PB Galaxie bar Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBX Hemingway Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingwayrelated memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktail-sipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, opatija@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 06:00. AGBXW Karolina Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.

During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD-2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNBW Nad urom Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee. However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, centar.korzo1@ri.t-com.hr, www.nadurom.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.

Pepe Rosso In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really!QD-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56. Open 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW Rakhia bar This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD-2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 964 05 87, davorin.szilvasy@gmail.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. PBXW Sabrage Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37, www.sabragebar.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00.

PENBX Teta Roža Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.QS-3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 098 137 61 19.

Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. PNBX The Beertija Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning! It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire pubish type experience.QR-2, Slavka Krautzeka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. EB

Clubs Boa This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 02:00. PNBW Tunel Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music, laid back jazz and alternative culture - you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here. The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions.QE-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, bok@tunelklub.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PNBX Život The specific interior design of the club, for us, the 80s generation who have been going out for 20 years, it sends us back to our childhood days, recalling one’s grandmother’s home, the things we loved as kids ... indie, pop, rock and electronic performances by bands and DJs go well with that.QF-1, Ružićeva 2. Open Thu 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:30 - 04:30.

your weary limbs on a hot day. The food’s not very Belgian. The beer is. Or at least some of it. So are the prices.

QD-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 21 48, info@ugostiteljstvo-as.com, www.ugostiteljstvoas.com. Open 06:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00.

PAGB Capitano First impressions suggest a classy and yuppiefied pub, complete with bustling be-aproned waiters, upholstered booths and polished cherrywood surfaces. However the pumping music and no-nonsense party atmosphere draws a young and hedonistic crowd in the evenings, especially at weekends when Capitano is a key stop-off on the city-centre booze crawl.QE-2, Riva 8. Open 07:00 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 06:00. PNBX Celtic Caffe Bard A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35, bard@ caffebard.com, www.caffebard.com. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNBX Phanas Pub A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, phanas@phanas.hr, www.phanas.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PAX River pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-) 091 151 67 54. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 18:00 - 03:00.

Closed Sun. Closed July, August. PNGBXW

Wine bars

Pubs

www.inyourpocket.com

kod Zajca wine&coffee bar Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian winemakers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD-3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. EBW

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Summer 2014

Belgian Beer Caffe - Brasserie As Another woodsy “real” pub, huge and with an extensive menu featuring daily set menus and veggie platters.

The terrace between Korzo and Riva demands you rest

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Sightseeing

Photo by Maja Knezić

Essential Rijeka St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1922.QD-1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30.

The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once 32 Rijeka In Your Pocket

a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD-2, Korzo.

The Corso (Korzo) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D-2, Korzo.

The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl.

Zajc) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newlylandscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE-3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 35 59 00/(+385-51) 35 59 07, propaganda@ hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr.

Trsat Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS-1. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Churches The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hardearned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB-2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:30.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.

It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s

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Sightseeing is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint.

There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD-2, Marka Marulića bb.

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30. is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00,18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:00.

The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass.QE-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. June, August, September Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv.

Sebastijana) Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian 34 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Salesian Monastery (Salezijanski samostan) The monks of the Salesian order follow the teachings of St Don Bosco (1815-1888), a priest who dedicated his life to helping and teaching orphaned boys. The buildings of the monastery complex date back to 1892, the chapel for orphans to 1901. The Salesians were invited to Rijeka in 1918 to work with young people, and founded a school and oratory here. The Salesian Classical Grammar School is a highly regarded educational institution which continues this work today on the same site.QN-2, Vukovarska 62, tel. (+385-51) 67 58 04.

Fountains The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.QC-2, Jadranski trg.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.

Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.QE-2, Jelačićev trg. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD-2, Korzo.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD-2, Koblerov trg.

The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA-2, Krešimirova.

Historical areas Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.)

Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.

QE-1, Kalvarija.

Photo by Valter Stojšić

Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.)

Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv.

Križ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).

Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young

galleries Bruketa 2 The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF-2, Strossmayerova 1, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Kortil An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.QF-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+385-51) 37 70 51, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr.

Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. September Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Mali salon A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD-2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Principij Gallery QE-2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, fotoklubrijeka@net.hr, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Trsatska Gradina Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina.

QU-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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Sightseeing chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT-2, Sveti križ.

The Old City (Stari grad) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

Industrial Rijeka It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture.

The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF-1, Ružićeva bb.

The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugo36 Rijeka In Your Pocket

slav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL-3, Liburnijska 3.

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA-1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter.

QM-3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Photo by photonet.hr

Sightseeing

trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA-2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Landmarks Archaeological Park The newly renovated Archaeological Park has recently opened in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD-2, Trg Jurja Klović.

Hurricane!

Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005.

Islamic Center Rijeka The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high in38 Rijeka In Your Pocket

ternational artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high.

Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, info@medzlis-rijeka.org, www. medzlis-rijeka.org.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE-2, Uskočka riva.

Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.

During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year.

War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD-3.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine.

The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café.

The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.

QF-1/2, E-2.

the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during AustroHungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).

Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana BrlićMažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.

In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S-3/4.

Pictured here, one of only five surviving life vests from the Titanic, on permanent display at Rijeka's Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral.

Sušak - Pećine The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

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Sightseeing built there Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations in planetarium are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 19:30.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 -20kn.

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD-2, Trg Julija Klovića.

The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer Rijeka Tourist Board Archives infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF-1, Titov trg.

Photo by photonet.hr

Museums

The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu.QE-2, Užarska.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building which was built in 1941as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was 40 Rijeka In Your Pocket

City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.QD1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11, info@muzejrijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo.

QC-2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission depending on the exhibition.

Peek&Poke - Computer Museum Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE-1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn.

Peek&Poke - Muzej djetinjstva Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE-1, Ivana Grohovca 2, info@ muzejdjetinjstva.com, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com.

Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.

State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr.

During exhibitions open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors.

Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century.

Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections.

For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.

QD-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00; 16:00-20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00, Mon.09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 15kn. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, info@prirodoslovni.com, www.prirodoslovni.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building.QC2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, www.svkri.uniri.hr.

Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

Palaces The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

QD-1, Muzejski trg 1.

The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was Summer 2014

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Sightseeing built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination. While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool. The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC-2, Riva.

The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.QE-1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Modello Building (Palača Modello) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE-2, Ivana Zajca.

The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices.

Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

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The Palazzo (Palača komuna) This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

Parks The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.QV-2, Trsat.

The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.

The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD-1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings Essential Opatija The Croatian Walk of Fame (Hrvatska ulica slavnih) Initiated in 2006 and has become a must see spot on the city tour. This educational and tourist project honours renowned and famous Croatians who have been promoting Croatia to the world through sport, science, culture and arts success. Marble stars have been carefully placed along Opatija’s Slatina promenade and home the likes of poet Dragutin Tadijanović, tennis great Goran Ivanišević, handball player Ivano Balić, actor Pero Kvrgić and others.

The Girl with a Seagull Definitely one of the most pictured motifs through which Opatija presents itself to the world is the sculpture of a girl with a seagull on her hand. It was made in 1956 by the sculptor Zvonko Car. It was placed on the same spot where the sculpture of the Madonna used to stand. Originally, the sculpture of the Madonna was put there in memory of Arthur Kesselstadt, who tragically died at sea in 1891. Due to wear and tear from the conditions near the sea, the sculpture had been damaged and was later transferred and restored. It can now be seen in St James’s Church above the Riviera.

The Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion Occupying the site of the former Benedictine monastery buildings, this elegant colonnaded structure originally served as a seafront café. Lovingly restored, and named after one of the pre-World War I medical men who popularized Opatija as a health resort, the pavilion now hosts contemporary art exhibitions.QPark sv.Jakova 1, tel. (+385-51) 27 22 25.

Villa Angiolina Built in 1844 and seen as a landmark in the town’s development as a high-society resort. Fittingly, the high and mighty figures of the populace would relish in the villa surroundings, attending lavish balls and receptions. Highranking guests included the governor of Croatia Josip Jelačić (1851), Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859), and Emperor Franz-Jozef’s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana (1860). The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian Tourism, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 36 36, www.hrmt.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission

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Photo by Andrej Grgurić

10kn - well worth visiting not least because it gives you the chance to peek inside the villa’s ornate entrance hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs, antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the history of the travel industry.

Opatija’s parks and promenades Franz-Jozef Promenade (Šetalište Franza Jozefa-Lungomare) One of the non-negotiable and must do activities in Opatija is to walk at least part of the way along the FranzJozef Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore from Volosko 3km to the north, or in the opposite direction to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens enriched with beautiful samples of cypress, oak and palm trees as well as ornate pre-World War I villas; the promenade offers fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the lush Gorski Kotar mountains brooding in the background.

Park Angiolina and Saint James It just so happens that at the same time as Villa Angiolina was being built, Opatija’s central park was also in the making. This horticultural masterpiece of 3.64 acres is divided into two scenic parts: one that resides next to Villa Angiolina itself and the second part which is next to the Church of Saint James. The gardens simply flourish with approximately 150 different plants, the majority of which come from distant parts of the world such as Japan, China, South America, Australia and other countries.

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Rijeka Surroundings Ignio Scarpa, who built Villa Angiolina planted these exotic shrubs and trees thanks to his sea-roving sailors who would scatter across the world and return home with new plants. The cedars, sequoias, gingko, palms and oaks are still flourishing today, making this one of Croatia’s most important dendrological collections. Amongst the many interesting plants, there is a Japanese Camellia (Camellia japonica), which has with time, become a symbol of Opatija.

Kostrena Tourist Board Archives Lošinj Tourist Board Archives

Park Margarita The second largest horticultural delight is Park Margarita which was founded right after the year 1900. It spans 3.5 acres on the slope above Slatina. Its central part has been entirely preserved, however there has been some damage along the surrounding edges due to many renovations, reconstructions and inappropriate building development.

Judging by the appearance of some of the plants (oak, planika, Juda’s tree and others), you’d think that the park was much older than Park Angiolina, however it is believed that the original plants that were seeded here over a century ago were already of age.

The Carmen Sylva Forest Promenade The 5 kilometre forest promenade on Mount Učka starts in Potok (Vrutki) and continues to Vela Fortica (Varljeni). The promenade was set up in 1890 under the name ‘Aurora’ and broadened in 1901 under the initiative and financial support of the Romanian King Karol and his wife Queen Elisabeth, a poetess who found inspiration there and wrote under the pseudonym Carmen Sylva.

The Opatija riviera

Tourist Board Dugi Otok Archives

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Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of highfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas - many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

Opatija Tourist Information Center QMaršala Tita 128, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, tic@opatijatourism.hr, www.opatija-tourism.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

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Rijeka Surroundings Novi Vinodolski

Crikvenica Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.

Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast.

Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija.

The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids.

One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry). Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00, July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 30kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

Crikvenica Tourist information center QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, info@ tzg-crikvenice.hr, www.rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.

You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information Center QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, info@tznovi-vinodolski.hr, www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Krk So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriprijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings tions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny

emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

Krk Tourist Information Center QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, tic@tz-krk.hr, www.tz-krk.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Cres The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies. Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There Photo by Miroslav Matejčić

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Rijeka Surroundings Photo by Photonet

are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel. A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings. Moving south towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt , or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil. Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj.

Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 29, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+38551) 23 18 84, losinj@visitlosinj.hr, www.tz-malilosinj.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Rab

Lošinj

You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze.

We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty. OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky. Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise.

On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone. Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands.

Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin.

Rab Tourist Board QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, info@ rab-visit.com, www.rab-visit.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Cres Tourist Board QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, tzg-cresa@ ri.t-com.hr, www.tzg-cres.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

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Leisure Scuba diving Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life - or anyone else’s - in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing!

Correct Diving QBrzac 33, Malinska, Krk Island, tel. (+385-) 091 563 49 30, kontakt@correct-diving.com, www.correct-diving. com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Dive City Qoutskirts, Braće Buchoffer 18, Crikvenica, tel. (+38551) 78 41 75, 091 572 47 76, info@divecity.net, www. divecity.net. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A Kostrena Diving Center QRožići 1, Kostrena, tel. (+385-) 098 981 80 61, info@ dckostrena.hr, www.dckostrena.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

A Marine sport diving center QAleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 515 72 12, info2@marinesport.hr, www.marinesport.hr.

Open 09:00 - 19:00. N

Swimming Yup, you’re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can’t see too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go for a dip?

In the city itself there are about 20 beaches which are located to the east and west with two of them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly arranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration with additional facilities, hospitality and children’s playgrounds.

The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio to Preluka which is perfect for windsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all beaches and if you’re lucky enough to have a car, there is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west. Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has brochure with maps of all beaches and their surrounding amenities which can be picked up at their offices or simply download it from the web.

Kantrida Swimming Pools QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, bazenikantrida@rijekasport.hr, www.rijekasport.hr/ BazeniKantrida. Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wed, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 10 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month. W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Photo by photonet.hr

Tennis Kvarner QEde Jarasa 27a, Marčeljeva draga, tel. (+385-51) 62 16 01, info@tkk.hr, www.tkk.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Price per hour 30 - 60kn.

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Health Tourism

Photo by Photonet

Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing.

Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort.

Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system.

The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today.

Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.

Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural environment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

AvAIlAble ble treAtMents treAt A Ments At A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more.

There are also a number of centres offering thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments 50 Rijeka In Your Pocket

are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

clInIcs & hosPItAls kATuNAR All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.QDr. ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, poliklinika.katunar@ inet.hr, www.crikvenica-info.com. A MEDICo State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email.Qe-1/2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, medico@medico.hr, www.medico.hr. A PoLIkLINIkA MEDIkoL Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email.QO-3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, pet-ct.ri@medikol.hr, www. medikol.hr. A PRo vITA Full range of specific and general examinations, checkups also available. Full details on website or contact via email.QC-2, Trpimirova 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, poliklinika.pro-vita@ri.t-com.hr,www.poliklinikaprovita.hr. A vILLA ELITE Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, gen general and plastic surgery. More info via website.QNova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran. zgaljardic@gmail.com, www.eliteclinic.hr. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism Zambelli Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.QE-1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, dr@mariozambelli.com, www.mariozambelli.com. A

Rident All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information.QM-2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, info@rident. hr, www.rident.hr. A

Dentists

Škodadent Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.QM-2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66, info@skodadent.com, www.skodadent.com. A

Dental Studio Vukanović A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.QK-3, Lošinjska 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60, info@dental-vukanovic.hr, www.dental-vukanovic.hr. A Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.QM-2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, info@ordinacija-bocina.hr, www. ordinacija-bocina.hr. A Dentorium Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all the information.QD-2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, info@dentorium.hr, www.dentorium.hr. A

Smile Studio Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.QM-2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 78, info@smilestudio.hr, www.smilestudio.hr. A ViaDent Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or phone.QPetra Jurčića 2/A, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35/(+385-) 091 401 81 10, info@viadent.hr, www.viadent.hr. A

Health & Spa Gordana Poščić Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email.QR-3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, info@fizio-gp.hr, www. fizio-gp.hr. A

Dr. Blašković Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services.

View their website or contact via phone or email.QR-2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, info@blaskovic.com, www.blaskovic.com.

Laurana Spa Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, info@wellness.hr, www.laurana.wellness.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Dr. Jelušić Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email.QMatuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, dr@jelusic.com, www.jelusic.com. A

Terme Selce If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection.Q1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, info@ terme-selce.hr, www.terme-selce.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website.QIvana Zajca 4/1, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 12 83/(+385-) 091 511 84 44, karolina.kokic.boric@ gmail.com, www.ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. A Kalmar Implant Dentistry All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer.

Visit their website.QIzviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, info@kalmar.hr, www.kalmar.hr. A Pavličević - Kustić Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website.QPreradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22, info@pavlicevic-kustic.hr, www. pavlicevic-kustic.hr. A facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Photo by Photonet

Dent Vitalis Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details are on their website.QO-3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 37 10 64, info@dentvitalis.com, www. dentvitalis.com. A

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Health Tourism Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.QGajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 76 66, fax (+385-51) 78 50 62, narucivanje@thalasso-ck.hr, www.thalasso-ck.hr.

Thalassotherapia Opatija The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, thalassotherapia-opatija@ri.t-com. hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. Open 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Wellness Comfort Zone Spa & Wellness Aurora Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools, facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.

QSunčana uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), www. losinj-hotels.com.

Comfort Zone Space Bonavia Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.QC-2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr.

Five Elements Wellness & Spa Ambasador Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, www.liburnia.hr.

Five Elements Wellness & Spa Marina Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.

QAleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, www.liburnia.hr.

Novi Spa Hotels & Resort The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!QNovi Vinodolski, info@hoteli-novi.hr, www.novi.hr.

Alternative medicine Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped. hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine. Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

Fitness & Beauty Kantrida Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs.QJ-3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, kantrida@blue-gym.com, www. blue-gym.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Scipion Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes.QMilutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 76, mistura@scipion.hr, www.scipion.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun - (physiotherapy).

Organic & Natural Bio&Bio Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics store.

QD-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, www.biobio. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Photo by Photonet - Thalassotherapia Opatija

52 Rijeka In Your Pocket

L’occitane Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty line for adult skin.QC-2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 32, www.loccitane.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism

LS Kozmetika Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy.

Qprirodna@lskozmetika.hr, www.lskozmetika.hr.

Nikel Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dmshops and selected pharmacies. More info via website.

Qwww.nikel.com.hr.

Health Tourism Agencies Croatia Medical Travel QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, info@croatia-medical-travel.com,w w w.croatiamedical-travel.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. A

Health insurance Croatia osiguranje QC-2, Korzo 39, tel. (+385-51) 20 77 77, informacije. rijeka@crosig.hr, www.crosig.hr.

Sunce osiguranje QD-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 50 10 04, podruznicarijeka@sunce.hr, www.sunce.hr.

Uniqa QD-2, Korzo 11, tel. (+385-51) 35 92 00, info@uniqa.hr, www.uniqa.hr.

Icing on the Cake Following your treatment you will probably want to make the most of your stay. You can take full advantage of your surroundings by exploring and sightseeing, enjoying outdoor sports, and sampling the local cuisine and culture.

facebook.com/inyourpocket facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Field trips Birdwatching In this region there are several sites where you can spot birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Birdwatching Croatia.

The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one!

Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44.

Mount Učka The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr.

Horse riding, Jelenje Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 25 58 666, kk.vodicajna@gmail.com.

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Health Tourism go gourmet The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy. Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables. Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home. All of this means that people from Croatia’s coast are often enviably healthy.While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meaning obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to anchovies). Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets. Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it’s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blueberries or prunes.

You may come across unusual items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse (puh). Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special treat.

Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) is irresistible. When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for (lovranski maruni). Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat.

Dobra vina For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and international wines.QC-2, Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 40 10 34, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Goranska borovnica Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit liquors, dry fruits.QBelo selo, Fužine, tel. (+385-) 091 512 47 12, pero.kozlica@ri.t-com.hr, www.goranska-borovnica.com.

Gospoja An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highlyregarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room. This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both try and buy their wines and spirits.

QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk Island, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr.

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Photo by Božica Svetički

Kastavski spomeni Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs.

QJurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 16 53/(+385) 098 988 14 14, info@kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www. kastavski-spomeni-to.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 21:00. July, August Open 17:30 - 21:00.

Manjon If you’re fond of tucking into a meal of snails, head for the inland village of Rukavac, just north of Opatija, where the Cvjetković family will treat you to home-cooked snails à la bourguignonne, snails cooked in sauce in the Istrian style, snail salami snail paté and more.QRukavac 60, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 74 24 60/(+385-51) 74 24 61, helicikultura@gmail.com, www.helicikultura.com.

Natura Rab Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products and oh so more.QBarbat 677, Rab, www.natura-rab.hr.

OPG Magriž Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), wine and olive oil.Q17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) 85 13 51. wOPG Pintar Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice.QNarodnog oslobođenja 23, Čabar, opg.pintar@gmail.com, www. pintar.hr.

Rijeka Fish Market Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture of this port city.

Sirana Runolist Say ‘cheese’! 100% natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the Rijeka Market.QŠpilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, tomaic-commerce@ gs.t-com.hr, www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism

Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries.

The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake.Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr.

The Frog Museum, Lokve This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-) 099 305 50 77. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

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Brseč, near Opatija A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages.

Jadranovo, near Rijeka This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay.

The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+38551) 83 61 33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr.

Lokve, Gorski kotar This is where you’ll find the largest cave for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months.

There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.tz-lokve.hr.

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Shopping

Artum Gallery

shoPPIng centres & MAlls RI DEPARTMENT SToRE QD-2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. J TowER CENTER QS-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, infotcrijeka@gmail.com, www.tower-center-rijeka. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. zTC RIJEkA QM-2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztcshopping.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. W

AntIQues

MALA GALERIJA In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.Qe-2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, mala-galerija@ri.tcom.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A vELčIć North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery with the permanent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of works by many other Croatian artists.QD-1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-51) 33 21 49, vvelcic@inet.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

bookshoPs ALGoRITAM PRoFIL MozAIk SuPERSToRE Multi-media store offering a reasonable selection of English-language novels, and plenty of attractively illustrated, international titles on art, architecture and design.QS-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81a, Tower Center, tel. (+385-51) 43 79 58, www.profil-mozaik.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A

MALI NEBoDER Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, antikvarijat@ri.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

ANTIkvARIJAT Ex-LIBRIS Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices.QD-2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, info@ri-exlibris.hr, www.riexlibris.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

TRIToN Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.

QF-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, triton.antikviteti@gmail.com.

Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

RIBook Specialised in online sales. Internet café inside with free internet use.Qe-2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15 55, ribook@superknjizara.hr, www.superknjizara.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Art gAllerIes

vBz A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here!QC-2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 10, knjizara-rijeka@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Open 07:30 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A

ARTuM Creative art works by Croatian artists, from jewellery to decorative and useful items is what one can find in this little shop, located next to the wonderful Archaeological Park.QD-2, Stara vrata 6, tel. (+385-51) 31 74 85, artum. ri@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A LAvAL Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.Qe-3, ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33, galerijalaval@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 56 Rijeka In Your Pocket

vERBuM Specialising in religious themes.Qe-2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, knjizara.rijeka@verbum.hr, www.verbum.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. June 30 - August 11 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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DISCOUNTS AT ARGENTUM SILVER JEWELLERY STORES

Rijeka Tower center Rijeka facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Janka Polića Kamova 81a, III.

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Shopping Gifts & Souvenirs Filatelija Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.QF1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Šta da?

The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE-2, Užarska 14, happyhobbyri@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design Mari Cro design studio If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.QD-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02, t.o.mari@ri.t-com.hr, www.mari-crodesign.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July 21 August 22 Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Čajkovski tea and coffee shop A little introduction - the Croatian word for tea is čaj pronounced “chai”, the owners of this tea and coffee shop are Russian, one of Russia’s greated composers was Tchaikovsky and there’s the connection. This shop offers high quality teas (100 of them) and coffees (25) from around the world, all with bio and eco certifications. The owners have extensive experience and knowledge of the different types of teas and coffees. If you enjoy a good cuppa then this is the place to stock up on your favourite brews.QE-2, Jedrarska 8, tel. (+385-51) 32 32 83, www.cajkovski.com.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Deliiicije Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries.QE-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, rijeka.korzo@ dupin.hr, www.deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A Kraš Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms.QE-2, Korzo 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 20:00. Closed Sun. A 58 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Kuća istarskog pršuta (House of Istrian Prosciutto) A new store created by Pik and Pisinium from Pazin combining their knowledge of the preparation of bread products with Croatian’s famous and traditional dried ham, along with local delicacies from Croatia’s coast. It is a unique shop and eatery selling only the best quality indulge yourself!QD-3, Riva Boduli 3 (on the quayside of the port), tel. (+385-51) 21 11 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Kušaonica Frajona Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Pavlomir Selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters - try herb and fig.

Also wine sold from the barrel.QUlica Pavlomir 2, Novi Vinodolski, tel. (+385-51) 24 80 33. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A Piko delicije A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE-2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, pik. rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A Pip Home produced honey.QE-2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE-3, Demetrova 14a, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Zeleno i plavo - Delicije našega kraja A delectable variety of Croatian goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorje led this enchanting store to win several awards.There are so many goodies to choose from, including a huge range of syrups, wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift!QC-2, Trpimirova 1A, tel. (+385-51) 32 25 98, zeleno.i.plavo@ri.t-com.hr, www.zelenoiplavo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Photo by photonet.hr

Hotels

5 stars Mozart QMaršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 82 60, fax (+385-51) 27 17 39, sales@hotel-mozart.hr, www.hotel-mozart.hr. 29 rooms (26 doubles €160 - 210, 2 Junior Suites €300, 1 Presidental Suite €520).

PZHR6UFLBKDW hhhhh Remisens Premium Hotel Ambasador QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+38551) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens.com, www.remisens. com. 200 rooms (36 singles €172 - 294, 110 doubles €136 - 234, 7 suites €218 - 372, 9 Family Rooms €194 - 330, 12 Executive Rooms €158 - 270, 8 Executive Suites €194 - 330, 18 Junior Suites €194 - 330). PHR6UIFLEG� BKDCW hhhhh

4 stars Best Western Hotel Jadran QS-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/(+38551) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@jadran-hoteli. hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (28 singles €82 - 97, 35 doubles €97 - 114, 3 triples €160, 1 suite €245, 2 Junior Suite €144). PHARUIGBKW hhhh Bristol QUlica Maršala Tita 108, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 00, fax (+385-51) 70 63 01, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotelbristol.hr. 78 rooms (2 singles €95 - 132, 64 doubles €126 - 173, 2 suites €226 - 263, 10 Junior Suites €176 - 213).

PTHAR6UFGBKDW hhhh Design Hotel Astoria QUlica Maršala Tita 174, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, fax (+385-51) 70 63 51, info@hotel-astoria.hr, www. hotel-astoria.hr. 50 rooms (46 singles €89 - 125, 46 doubles €119 - 163, 3 suites €219 - 253, 1 Junior Suite €169 - 203). PTAR6ULGBKW hhhh Draga di Lovrana QLovranska Draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66/(+385-) 099 814 55 00, fax (+385-51) 29 18 26, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www.dragadilovrana.hr. 7 rooms (6 doubles €80 - 90, 1 apartment €200 - 520).

PAR6LGBKDW hhhh facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Grand Hotel Adriatic QMaršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 90 00, fax (+385-51) 71 90 25, info@hotel-adriatic.hr, www.hoteladriatic.hr. 167 rooms (21 singles €80 - 130, 139 doubles €88 - 225, 7 suites €250). POTHARUG� BKDCW hhhh Grand Hotel Bonavia

by Photonet QC-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, faxPhoto (+38551) 33 59 69, bonavia@bonavia.hr, www.bonavia. hr. 121 rooms (21 singles €130 - 150, 93 doubles €160 - 205, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental apartment €650).

PJHAR6FLGBKDW hhhh Miramar QIve Kaline 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 28 00 00, fax (+385-51) 28 00 28, info@hotel-miramar.info, www. hotel-miramar.info. 108 rooms (100 doubles €90 185, 4 suites €160 - 275, 4 apartments €442 - 527).

P Z H A R 6 I F L E G B K D Ch� hhh Park QMaršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 70 62 00, fax (+385-51) 29 37 91, info@hotelparklovran.hr, www. hotelparklovran.hr. 62 rooms (3 singles €65 - 96, 56 doubles €49 - 89, 3 apartments €72 - 99). PTHA� RUFLGBKDCW hhhh Remisens Family Hotel Marina All Inclusive light QAleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens. com, www.remisens.com. 182 rooms (18 singles €122 - 210, 48 doubles €100 - 174, 56 Family Rooms €162 - 278, 12 Double Rooms Atrium €86 - 150).

PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhh

hostel Dharma QT-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-51) 56 21 08/(+385-) 095 844 95 67, info@dharmahostels.com, www. dharmahostels.com/hr. 33 dorm beds, 135 - 185kn per person. PA6GW Kosy QE-2, Užarska 1, tel. (+385-) 091 361 28 91, hostelkosy@gmail.com,www.hostelkosy. com. 17 dorm beds, 135 - 180kn per person.

PJA6GW Youth hostel Rijeka QR/S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 61 dorm beds, 21 - 47€ per person.

TAGBKW Summer 2014

59

Hotels Remisens Hotel Admiral QMaršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens. com, www.remisens.com. 180 rooms (31 singles €142 - 242, 126 doubles €114 - 198, 18 apartments €178 - 354, 6 Captain Rooms €140 - 240). PHA� R6UIFLEGKDCW hhhh Remisens Premium & Romantic Villa Ambasador QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens. com, www.remisens.com. 49 rooms (18 singles €162 - 276, 19 doubles €126 - 216, 12 suites €178 - 302).

PHR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Remisens Revital Hotel Kristal QMaršala Tita 135, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens.com, www. remisens.com. 130 rooms (33 singles €116 - 200, 97 doubles €90 - 156). PHAR6UIFLGDCW hhhh Savoy QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 05 00, fax (+385-51) 27 26 80, info@hotel-savoy.hr, www.hotelsavoy.hr. 32 rooms (2 singles €92 - 103, 20 doubles €124 - 146, 2 suites €230 - 240, 8 Junior Suites €117 - 170).

PHAULGBKDCW hhhh Villa Astra QViktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, sales@hotelvillaastra.com, www.hotelvillaastra.com. 6 rooms (6 doubles €210 316). PARLGBKCW hhhh

3 stars Continental QF-1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića 1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, kontinental@jadranhoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (13 singles €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior Suite €151). A6K hhh

Lovran QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 12 22, fax (+385-51) 29 24 67, office@hotel-lovran.hr, www.hotel-lovran.hr. 56 rooms (7 singles €40 - 57, 46 doubles €70 - 135, 3 suites €133 - 167). PHA6L� BKDW hhh Neboder QF-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+38551) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, neboder@jadranhotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 54 rooms (8 singles €63 - 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). PJHA6IL� GK hhh Villa Ariston QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, fax (+385-51) 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villaariston.hr. 10 rooms (2 singles €48 - 65, 6 doubles €89 - 113, 1 Presidential Suite €186 - 253, 1 Junior Suite €133 - 173). PHAILGBKW hhh

Budget Belvedere QIve Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+3855-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens.com, www. remisens.com. 95 rooms (13 singles €80 - 140, 82 doubles €62 - 110). A6ILEGBKDCW hh Opatija QTrg Vladimira Gortana 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 88, fax (+385-51) 27 13 17, info@hotel-opatija.hr, www.hotelopatija.hr. 200 rooms (84 singles €43 - 79, 116 doubles €57 - 102). PTHAR6LBKC hh Villa Amalia QPava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel Kvarner), tel. (+38551) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@ liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. 31 rooms (1 single €72 128, 30 doubles €54 - 98). HA6ILEGB� KDCW hh

Camping

Imperial QMaršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens.com, www.remisens.com. 127 rooms (24 singles €90 - 158, 103 doubles €70 - 122). PHA6IGBKW hhh

Autocamp Draga QAleja Slatina bb, Mošćenićka Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 23, fax (+385-51) 73 73 39, info@autocampdraga. com, www.autocampdraga.com. Person / per day 39 56kn, Children 26 - 37kn, Tent 29 - 47kn, Car 24 - 37kn, Camping trailer 34 - 52kn, Camper 47 - 66kn, Pets 22 34kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn. W hhh

Istra QMaršala Tita 143, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@remisens.com, www.remisens.com. 130 rooms (28 singles €92 - 162, 102 doubles €72 - 126). PTA6GBKCW hhh

Preluk QG-3, Preluk 1, tel. (+385-51) 62 35 00/(+385-) 098 44 62 60, info@autocamp-preluk.com, www.autocamp-preluk. com. Person / per day 39 - 59kn, Children 20 - 39kn, Tent 25 - 35kn, Car 25 - 39kn, Camping trailer 33 - 69kn, Pets 40 50kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn. A6W

60 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Directory Interpreters & Translators Ciklopea QC-1, M. K. Kozulić 2/3, tel. (+385-51) 68 81 61, info@ ciklopea.com, www.ciklopea.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. N Lingua - Soft QC-2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 00/(+385-) 091 311 00 03, rijeka@lingua-soft.hr, www.lingua-soft.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Dry cleaners & Laundries Blitz Self service launderette. Also at Kumičićeva 47a, tel. 40 37 89, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.QO-3, Mate Lovraka bb (centar Plodine), tel. (+385-51) 34 30 64. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Super 24 Dry cleaners.QC-2, Ciottina 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 33 80.

Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zambelli Dry cleaners.QD-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 62. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Foreign representations Austria QE-2, Stipana Konzula Istranina 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 85 54. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark QA-1, Ulica 1.maja 58, tel. (+385-51) 55 10 67, danskikonzulat@ri.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy For an emergency call 098 / 41 46 02 or 098 41 40 48.QD/C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 35 52 00/(+385-51) 35 52 01, cons. fiume@esteri.it, www.consfiume.esteri.it. Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Norway QE-1, Žrtava fašizma 2/II, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 27. Open 08:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia QC-2, Erazma Barčića 9, tel. (+385-51) 33 74 20/ (+385-51) 33 74 21, konzulat-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. konzulat-srbije-rijeka.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden QC-2, Riva 20/3, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 87, swedish. consulate.ri@email.ht.hr. Open , Tue, Thu 13:30 - 15:30. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Netherlands QE-2, Ulica 9. rujna 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 19 77, agency@drakar.hr. Open , Tue, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy Night shifts are covered by the Centar Pharmacy and you will find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr.

Centar QD-2, Riva 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 01. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kazalištu QE-2, Uljarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 79. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Korzo QD-2, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Pets Veterinary clinic Rijeka During non working hours and night shifts vet is on duty on tel: 091/ 214 88 22 which you can call in case of an emergency.QP-2, Stube Marka Remsa 1, tel. (+385-51) 34 50 33, vet.st.ri@ri.t-com.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Dog Beaches Woof! Woof! Dog owner’s shed delight as 2 beaches have been set aside for our four legged canine friends! Facilities include special beach access, rubbish bins with PVC rubbish bags and a rubber pipe dog shower. Please follow and abide all outlined rules.

Brajdica, R-3 Pećine Igralište, Kantrida

Pet hotels Happy Dog Dogs hotel.QM-2, Šibenska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 167 11 67. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N Šapice Dogs hotel.Qoutskirts, Zubinići 160a, Veprinac, Ičići, tel. (+385-) 099 229 93 77/(+385-) 098 965 83 30, info@sapice. hr, www.sapice.hr. Open by prior arrangement. N

Post Main post office QD-2, Korzo 13, tel. (+385-51) 52 55 82. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Summer 2014

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1 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole 2 University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Bu peštansk and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace 3 dimMaritime o pristan išt 4 City Museum e Bečko pr istanište 5 Natural History Museum 6 Palace of Justice 7 St. Vitus’ Church 8 St. Sebastian’s Church 9 Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum 10 The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” 11 Old Town Hall in Rijeka 12 Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower 13 “Modello” Palace 14 Main market 15 Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” 16 Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas 17 City Tower 18 “Ploech” Palace 19 Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes 20 Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery 21 Railway station 22 P/B “Uragan” 23 State archives Rijeka

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E-2 O-2, P-3 / A-1 M-2, N-2 L-1 E-1 V-1 N-2, O-2 E-3 C-2 D-3 L-2, M-2 C-2, D-2 G-2, S-1 M-2, N-2 B-2, C-2 Q-3 / D-1, E-1

Fr

5

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TVI

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Park Vladimira Nazora

Uskočka

a

Alda

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Veslarska Viktora cara Emina Vinka Benca Viškovo Vodovodna Vrlije Vukovarska Wenzelova Zadarska Zagrebačka Zametska Zanonova Zaobilaznica Zvonimirova Žabica Žrtava fašizma

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Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 D-2 Trg Ivana Koblera Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

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Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Q-3 / E-2 Scarpina Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 C-2 Splitska Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2

RJ

Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 3-A Orlandov gat Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

F Summer 2014

63

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D O N J A D R E N O VA

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ŠKURINJSKA DRAGA Šmit

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RIJEKA CENTAR

Čvor "Škurinje"

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TUMAČ ZNAKOVA LEGEND / LEGENDE / LEGENDA / LEGENDE

INFORMACIJE

INFORMATION / INFORMATION / INFORMAZIONI / INFORMATIONS

PARKIRALIŠTE

CAR PARK / PARKPLATZ / PARCHEGGIO / PARKING

BENZINSKA POSTAJA

PETROL STATION / TANKSTELLE / DISTRIBUTORE DI BENZINA / STATION SERVICE

ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR

RAILWAY STATION / BAHNHOF / STAZIONE FERROVIARIA / GARE FERROVIAIRE

GARDEROBA

LEFT-LUGGAGE OFFICE / GEPÄCKABSTELLRAUM / DEPOSITO BAGAGLI / CONSIGNE

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Reproduciranje ove mape ili bilo kojeg njenog dijela nije dozvoljeno bez pismenog odobrenja nosioca autorskih prava.

AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR

LUČKA KAPETANIJA

BUS STATION / BUSBAHNHOF / ` STAZIONE DEGLI AUTOBUS / GARE ROUTIERE

AUTOBUS - PRIGRADSKE LINIJE

BUS - LOCAL LINES / BUS - LOKALE LINIEN / AUTOBUS-LINEE LOCALI / AUTOBUS - LIGNES LOCALES

tuRIstički autobus

CAMPSITE / CAMPINGPLATZ / CAMPEGGIO / CAMPING

HOTEL / HOTEL / ALBERGO / HÔTEL

HOTEL

TAXI LOKACIJE TAXI RANK / TAXISTAND / POSTEGGIO TAXI / STATION DE TAXIS

PRIVATNI SMJEŠTAJ

PAUK

touRIst bus / TouRIstik-Bus / autobus tuRIstico / Bus touRIstique

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION / PRIVATUNTERKUNFT / ALLOGGIO PRIVATO / LOGEMENT PRIVÉ

PUTNIČKO I TRAJEKTNO PRISTANIŠTE

HOSTEL

HOSTEL / HERBERGE / OSTELLO / AUBERGE

PASSENGER & FERRY TERMINAL / PASSAGIER & FÄHRHAFEN / PORTO TURISTICO E SCALO TRAGHETTI / LE PORT DE FERRY ET DE VOYAGEURS

PRENOĆIŠTE

ZRAČNA LUKA OTOK KRK

ISLAND OF KRK AIRPORT / FLUGHAFEN DER INSEL KRK / AEREOPORTO ISOLA DI KRK / AÉROPORT ÎLLE DE KRK

LODGING / HERBERGEN / DORMITORIO / LOGEMENT

N

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HARBOUR MASTER’S OFFICE / HAFENAMT / CAPITANERIA DI PORTO / CAPITAINERIE PORTUAIRE

TOW TRUCK / ABSCHLEPPKRAN / ` CARRO ATTREZZI / FOURRIERE

TRŽNICA

MARKET / MARKT / MERCATO / MARCHÉ

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POST OFFICE / POST / POSTA / POSTE

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GROBNIK: STARI GRAD

AUTOMOTODROM GROBNIK AERODROM GROBNIK Žakalj

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KAZALIŠTE LJEKARNA

PHARMACY / APOTHEKE / FARMACIA / PHARMACIE

MUZEJ

MUSEUM / MUSEUM / MUSEO / MUSÉE

GALERIJA

GALLERY / GALERIE / GALLERIA D’ARTE / GALERIE D'ART

KNJIŽARA

BOOKSTORE / BUCHHANDLUNG / LIBRERIA / LIBRAIRIE

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AMBULANCE SERVICE / ERSTE HILFE / PRONTO SOCCORSO / URGENCES

VETERINARSKA STANICA

VETERINARY SURGERY / TIERARZT / CLINICA VETERINARIA / SERVICE VÉTERINAIRE

GROBLJE ZA KUĆNE LJUBIMCE

PET CEMETERY / TIERFRIEDHOF / CIMITERO ` POUR ANIMAUX PER ANIMALI / CIMETIERE

GROBLJE

AUTOGAS / AUTOGAS / GAS AUTO / GAZ POUR VOITURE

NOGOMETNI STADION

FOOTBALL STADIUM / FUßBALLSTADION / STADIO / STADE

BAZEN

SWIMMING POOL / SCHWIMMBAD / PISCINA / PISCINE

KINO

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ASTRONOMSKI CENTAR

ASTRONOMICAL CENTRE / ASTRONOMISCHES ZENTRUM / CENTRO ASTRONOMICO / CENTRE D’ASTRONOMIE

REZERVIRANO PARKIRALIŠNO MJESTO

RESERVED PARKING SPACE / RESERVIERTE PARKPLÄTZE / PARCHEGGIO RISERVATO / PLACE DE PARKING RÉSERVÉE

TELEFON DOSTUPAN OSOBAMA S INVALIDITETOM

TELEPHONE FOR THE DISABLED / TELEFON FÜR BEHINDERTE / TELEFONO PER DISABILI / TÉLÉPHONE ACCESSIBLE AUX HANDICAPÉS

PLAŽA ZA INVALIDE

CINEMA / KINO / CINEMA / CINÉMA

BEACH FOR THE DISABLED / STRAND FÜR BEHINDERTE / SPIAGGIA PER DISABILI / PLAGE POUR HANDICAPÉS

CRKVA

WC ZA INVALIDE DISABLED TOILETES / WC FÜR BEHINDERTE / WC PER DISABILI / TOILETTES POUR PERSONNES HANDICAPÉES

CHURCH / KIRCHE / CHIESA / EGLISE

CEMETERY / FRIEDHOF / ` CIMITERO / CIMETIERE

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AERODROM "RIJEKA"-KRK

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the best place for shopping, food and fun located at the gateway to Zagreb: A2, A3, A1