Rijeka In Your Pocket No16

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2016

Islands aplenty See our secret getaways

Bekim Sejranović The journey of a people’s writer N°16 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Home of Apoxyomenos Where the Greek became Croat

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6

A warm welcome from our editor in chief

Arrival & Getting Around

Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife

7

Lost? Help is at hand

Sightseeing Rijeka Surroundings

Making your stay stress free

Museums, beaches and islands 11

Enjoy tranquility

Culture & Events

47

Health Tourism

52

Recreation all-round 14

Shopping

All you need is your pencil and diary

Why not pamper yourself

Restaurants 22 Crème de le crème of where to eat

Hotels

Local Flavour

Maps

Flavoursome dishes and feverish food markets with best of the foodies

37

City landmarks and monuments

Rijeka Basics 10 Croatia’s Secret Islands

33

What better way to relax

29

59 61

Places to stay for every pocket 62 64

Street index / City centre map City map

Apoxyomenos Archives, Photo by Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić “Kaleidoscope Room”, the lookout at the top of the museum, a room where the ceiling mirror reflects the different sequences of Lošinj’s port

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Foreword Coming to Rijeka, you would pronounce that as ree-yeka, then you’ve arrived to one of Croatia’s largest cities, the third largest in-fact @InYourPocket and it is very much a port city. At this time of year, Rijeka is a definite transit city with visitors stopping by from north to south, or vice-versa. City folk live and love their seaside; it is their breath of life and a way of life. For the complete riječko iskustvo (Rijeka experience), we’ve packed invine.co/inyourpocket as much info as possible to make the most of your stay. Do visit our feature on Croatia’s Secret Islands, superb getaways for shorter or longer periods of stay which include places of seclusion, or places for a social shindig. Another feature is our ’10 gifts for hungry loved ones’ which are so tempting that we cannot guarantee they’ll even reach your loved ones, and ‘Deck your home with Croatian goods’, both of which offer plenty of souvenir ideas for long lasting memories or gifts. Also and FYI, the city of Rijeka wasyoutube.com/inyourpocket recently announced as the European City of Culture 2020, a great feat and prestigious achievement in which the city is working towards. Back on track, we also have a feature interview with Bekim Sejranović, a Croatian writer who lives between Rijeka and Oslo which we hope pinterest.com/inyourpocket you’ll enjoy reading. Our feature on local specialties and dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home.

As we bid you Full a farewell, may your contents online: stay in our city be a memorable one. Rijeka ??city??.inyourpocket.com Happy summer holidays!

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Read more reviews online:

Summer 2016

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Bird’s-eye view of the Olympic swimming pool at Rijeka’s famous Kantrida Swimming Pools.

Islands aplenty

See our secret getaways

Bekim Sejranović The journey of a people’s writer N°16 - complimentary copy

Home of Apoxyomenos

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Company OfficeWhat’s & Accountsgoing on?

Višnja Arambašić facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Where’s the party?

Editorial Editorfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Roman Šimić Bodrožić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić All the latest news Community Manager Eli Gajinov Designfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Kantrida Swimming Pools - Rijeka Sport Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov

Where the Greek became Croat

Copyright notice Text, maps??city??.inyourpocket.com and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. brand here? name In Your Pocket is used NotThelisted under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Overtel.250 ??chapter?? reviews Lithuania (+370-5) 212 29 76). Rijeka (Croatia) Inonline: Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after ??city??.inyourpocket.com publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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8 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around By plane Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

Rijeka Airport QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, information@rijeka-airport.hr, www.rijeka-airport.hr. Open 07:00 - 19:00, October March Open Mon - Fri 07:00 - 13:00.

European Coastal Airlines Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running in Kvarner:​ Seaside Airport Rab Šetalište kapetana Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+38551) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Pula Riva 1/A, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu F​ lyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu.

During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.QŠetalište kapetana Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; June 20 - September 10 Open 24/7, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10/(+385-51) 66 06 60, info@autotrans.hr, www.autotrans.hr.

By bus

By train

Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket

Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.

Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and do-

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Arrival & Getting Around way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Marša Gajinov

mestic window, Open 05:15 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 33 33 or international (+385-51) 21 13 04. You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it’s best to reserve in advance for international journeys. Changing money: There’s a cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 23:30, cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Around for other cab companies).

Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 33 33, informacije@hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr.

By boat An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their 10 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Jadroagent QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, travel@jadroagent.hr, www.travel.jadroagent.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, ag.rijeka@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr.

Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

October - May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

Losinia Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, losinia@losinia.hr, www.losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

October - May Open 08:00 - 13:00.

Rapska plovidba Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check the sailing schedule for Kiosks open hours.QHrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, rapska-plovidba@ri.t-com.hr, www.rapskaplovidba.hr.

tourist information Tourist Information Center QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, info@ visitRijeka.hr, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Kvarner Info The Gateway to the Adriatic QĆikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+38551) 62 88 88, info@kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr.

June 14 - September 20 Open 08:00 - 20:00. September - June Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around By car

Taxi

From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka. From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica. From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal. Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.

There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty QC‑2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46 92 32, rijeka@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Hertz QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A

Auto taxi Rijeka QN‑1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 099 700 30 43.

Cammeo QR‑3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 12 12 (press 3), info-rijeka@taxi-cammeo.hr, www.taxi-cammeo.hr.

Kvarner taxi Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

Towed away If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street A. K. Miošića - it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 06:30 - 21:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.

Photo by Marša Gajinov

Parking Street parking/SMS Parking Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are 4 - 10 kunas per hour.

Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

Public transport The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.

Autotrolej QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, autotrolej@autotrolej.hr, www.autotrolej.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

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Rijeka Basics Now that you’ve arrived and settled, get a brief introduction into some of the expectations and abiding rules one should follow - things that are part of everyday life to Rijeka citizens. From cash currency, tips, smoking laws, national holidays and who to call if something goes wrong.

Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Safety You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night.

12 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

Visas Since Croatia had become the member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385)112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands

Island Susak, Mali Lošinj Tourist Board Archives

Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.

Susak Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.

In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.

Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment. Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring. Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to restore fertility.

Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the more intriguing Croatian islands! facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Silba With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners.

Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love back home. Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija UjevićGaletović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form. Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.

Prvić Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland. Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking oniondomed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the coast. Among the children who have been lucky to spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum.

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Croatia’s Secret Islands Šolta Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina.

Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts.

Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.

The Elafiti Islands The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.

Koločep The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!

Lopud For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants. Šipan The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service!

Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service.

14 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.

10 Gifts for Hungry Loved Ones One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what better gift for those back home than something to nibble?

Ground Wild Fennel The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-) 91 588 84 09, marica.marasovic@gmail.com.

Grisinia A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.

Olive Leaf Tea Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.

The Captain’s Cookies Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries. Contact: mantunovic87@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77 Marija Antunović.

Pag and Brač Island Cheese Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands.

Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Brač, aktiva.brac@gmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, (+385-) 91 594 52 79.

Lumblija Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, iskravlasich@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.

Krk Island Pršut To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is a product that varies depending on the environment and the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+38551) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).

Salt Petals Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr Macaroni Needles One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).

yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, grad-pag@zd.tcom.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30.

Lipa Rugs A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor.

Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, lipa1@windowslive.com. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.

Stone Pestle and Mortar Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 907 04 68, drazenjaksic40@gmail.com, also in Split in the basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre of Korčula town.

Kunjska spara A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and still do) carry on their heads on their return home from the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, marija.grdas@zd.htnet.hr.

Deck Your Home With Croatian Goods Wool Slippers from Cres Island Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, cres.ruta@gmail.com, www. ruta-cres.hr.

Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Ruta Cres, Photo by Igor Njhausler

Summer 2016

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Culture & Events

Festival Kvarner Archives

Exhibitions 14.04 Thursday - 16.09 Friday (R)evolution at the Rijeka City Museum Believe it or not, the city museum once bore the name the Museum of National Revolution, a very communist title from the former Yugoslavia. Nowadays, the new generation know little of that period and this event highlights the times through objects, artefacts, and other products. It also presents the horrors of such rule, the tortures of Goli Otok where people were imprisoned. A very opinionative, reflective, and interpretive exhibit!QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

19.05 Thursday - 21.12 Wednesday The First in the World – 150 Years of the Rijeka Torpedo You are home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a launching station and numerous screenings.

Why? Because Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented!QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

12.07 Tuesday - 17.07 Sunday Contesting/contexting SPORT See how creative engagement can act against the normativity of sport through queer expression. Fifteen inter16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

national and eight national authors use different methodologies in sharing a common understanding of sport as a context that is neither fixed, nor given, but requires constant questioning and self-organisation, and most of all, the ability to imagine viable alternatives.QD‑2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, www.mmsu.hr.

14.07. 2016 Thursday - 28.02. 2017 Tuesday Giants of Patagonia Kids, adults, all those who love dinosaurs, prepare to embark on a journey filled with replicas of giant dinosaur skeletons made after authentic fossil specimens discovered at Patagonia, as well as original-sized models of dinosaurs; the skeletons of the greatest carnivore ever to walk the Earth (Giganotosaurus carolinii), the biggest animal claw ever discovered, flying reptiles as well as reptiles inhabiting the seas. Its mega packed with educational corners for the littlies and some exhibits are adjusted to the blind and visually-impaired.QF‑3, Exportdrvo ex-warehouse at Delta, Grobnička riva bb, www.prirodoslovni.com.

Admission 40 - 60kn.

14.07 Thursday - 30.08 Tuesday Photo Exhibition from the Fotoklub Rijeka archives Over 80 years in existence, Fotoklub Rijeka stays true to its ethos by always hosting dynamic and original programmes, taking into account all aspects of photography and creative works. The club has been in existence for over eighty years both at the domestic and international scene.

See archival works old and new, works that always reflect rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events an impression, works that are always ready to be critiqued and works adapted to contemporary art practice.QE‑2, Principij Gallery, Pod voltun 4, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr.

15.07 Friday - 27.07 Wednesday Croatia from the Air See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and photographer Davor Rostuhar. National Geographic gave it the thumbs up with photos of natural and cultural landmarks aplenty. Touring exhibitions in the open will be set in Lošinj .QMali Lošinj, www.hrvatskaizzraka.com.

19.08 Friday - 02.09 Friday Friends of the Sea – The Blue Hour For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been selected by the expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.

QD‑2, Korzo, www.prijateljimora.com.

19.08 Friday - 16.09 Friday Zlatko Prica – 100 years of Prica – Retrospective exhibition May we introduce an unavoidable figure of Croatian modern painting, a great artist and scholar who once stated that painting is ‘serious business’. Prica established a resounding international career and on the occasion of the centenary of his birth, numerous monographs and symposiums will vindicate how he himself, set the highest of expectations.QC‑2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/II, www.mmsu.hr.

20.09 Tuesday - 20.10 Thursday PapayaDay With… photos by: Stanislav One Belička As the title states, the author Stanislav Belička recorded in one day the photographs of Croatian and German artists accompanied by videos. The artists are Bruno Paladin, Tomislav Pavletić, Igor Zlatkov, Mirko Zrinšćak, and Armin Appel. The exhibition is a multimedia portrait consisting of photos and videos in which individual artists talk about the reasons for his action and imaginative creation.QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzejrijeka.hr.

Jazz Concert 03.11 Thursday - 05.11 Saturday The 25th Jazz Time Rijeka Festival An amazing feat for oganisers who have brought jazz vibes to Rijeka for a quarter of a century! Individuals passionate about jazz have made their dream come true and visitors to the event can expect to see some of the finest facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

jazz soloists and groups in the region strutting their tunes.

Qwww.jazztimerijeka.com.

Special events 16.06 Thursday - 02.09 Friday Summer Beer Garden in Guver The Governor’s Palace is located at the gardens of the Maritime and History Museum of Croatian Littoral, the perfect setting for a Sat/Sun summer sizzler! Every weekend you’ll find an outdoor party atmosphere with dedication given to beer choice as there has been a surge in beer culture and craft beer of late. Plenty of food, fun, and live performances!QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, www.facebook. com/pivskivrtguver.

01.07 Friday - 22.07 Friday Rijeka Summer Nights Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation.QVarious locations, hnk-zajc.hr/rljn. Tickets 50 - 150kn available at the Croatian National Theatre Box Office, Verdieva 5a, (+385-51) 33 71 14, blagajna@hnk-zajc.hr and www. kulturaplus.com.

02.07 Friday - 03.09 Saturday Summer on Gradina Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing conceptual program placed around different parts of the fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and presentations. This is the 11th edition and the action kicks off on July 1st with the event in 3000 candles and lasts until September 3rd. Just being up on Trsat is a breath taking experience!QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, www. trsatskagradina.com.

16.07 Saturday - 31.07 Sunday Spajalica (Paperclip) - Artistic interventions in public space Three very different people that share one thing in common, ‘street art’! Sebas Valesco (Spain) focuses on illustrative backgrounds with realistic elements shown close up, shadowy indeed. Lonac (Croatia) is best known for using real life objects and repainting them to cause a reality effect. And finally Selma Selmani (Bosnia and Herzegovina) is a visual artist whose work is characterised by the poetics of resistance against discrimination, indifference, and lack of compassion.QD‑2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, www.mmsu.hr.

05.08 Friday - 07.08 Sunday Kostrena Sunrise Festival A brand new summer festival on the calendar will be in Kostrena, a famous area known for its beautiful sandy and pebbled beaches! Both local and international DJs will Summer 2016

17

Culture & Events kastav cultural summer 01.07 FRIDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY From its beginnings in the 90’s when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other art fields and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. Culture at its finest! www.kkl.hr 12.07 Tuesday - 23.08 Tuesday Jazz Night As part of the 25th Kastav Summer of Culture there will be a series of very special jazz concerts held at specific and feature locations; little squares, streets, arches and romantic stairs all with a refreshing jazzacious sound. Performers include ‘Trio minus one’, the ‘Spart Jazz Trio’, ‘Alba and Leo’, the Zvjezdan Ružić trio’ and the ‘Lela Kaplowitz duo’.

29.07 Friday Josipa Lisac feat. Lovely Quinces, Luce & Dina Razvić Josipa Lisac is one of Croatia’s superior vocals with over 40 years in the music industry, she is known for her specific interpretations and unconventional style. A voice that few can categorise or compare, yet always evolving! Lisac will be joined by Luce and Dina Rizvić who are upcoming stars of the Croatian indie scene. Trio fantastico! QCrekvina, Kastav. Concert starts at 21:00.

01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday 19th Guitar Festival There are few things sweeter then gift of music, played by artisans and wunderkinds, and so let us talk of the Guitar Festival. This year’s event sees Bebe Na Vole, Stray Dogg, Tommy Emmanuel, Damir Halilić. Festival will end with Ana i Viktor Vidović featuring sensational Darko Jurković Charlie.

19.08 Friday Matija Dedić feat. Atma Mundi Ensemble & F. Bearzatti.

A night of improvisation can be expected when we look at the line-up! Matija Dedić is a famous Croatian jazz pianist and composer, the Atma Mundi Ensemble jumble Croatian, African, and oriental music from the Far East, and then there is the popular Italian saxophonist Francesco Bearzatti. It leaves the mind buzzing with the amount of instantaneous creativeness to be heard on the night.QCrekvina, Kastav. Concert starts at 21:00.

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pump their electronic and techno tunes till the sun rises.

Featured so far are DJ Johnny Kaos from Italy, and Fabian Jakopetz, Labozz and Wide Cut from Croatia. Stay tuned for further announcements.QKostrena, www.facebook. com/kostrenasunrise.

12.08 Friday - 14.08 Sunday Dark O Metal Festival III For the third year running, metal-heads will be banging down the doors at the ‘Hartera’ venue with an action packed programme. 17 bands will perform with headliners ‘Shirenc Plays Pungent Stench’, death metal giants ‘God Dethroned’ and ‘One Piece Puzzle’. Organisers have gone the extra mile with tours and walks through nature, free transport to the nearest beach, camping, artists, humanitarian acts and more. Keeping the metal flame burning!QF‑1, Hartera ex Paper Factory, Ružićeva bb, www.rirock.hr.

16.09 Friday - 17.09 Saturday Hartera Festival An old torn down paper factory has become home to one of the top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay tuned for line up details as amazing performers from all over the world have helped create an amazing ambience and reputation that continues to grow.QM‑3, Ul. Milutina Barača, www.hartera.com.

13.10 Thursday - 15.10 Saturday Student International Film Festival (STIFF) STIFF is Croatia’s first International Film Festival dedicated entirely to student films with the purpose of strengthening the local film industry, giving an insight into the work of other filmmakers and establishing international projects in the field of media production. The best student film productions from all around the world will be presented.

QVarious locations, Rijeka, www.stiff.uniri.hr.

18.10 Tuesday Il Sogno del Marinaio feat. Mike Watt A timeless musician, Watt is one of the world’s greatest bass players who rose to fame with the California punk band Minutemen. Various musical projects keep him busy yet he remains faithful to his sharp, unpredictable and complex punk-funk music-playing trademark.QC‑2, Omladinski kulturni centar Palach, Kružna ulica 8.

Sport Events 12.07 Tuesday - 25.07 Monday European Universities Games 2016 Throughout 13 days in July, in the cities of Rijeka and Zagreb, 5000 students from 45 European countries and more than 200 Universities will compete in 21 different sports. Definitely one of the most beautiful sports stories ever told in Croatia!

The European Universities Games are the largest multi-sport event in European university sport promoting healthy living as well as social and cultural interaction. As the motto says, ‘Heart believes, mind achieves’.Qwww.eug2016.com. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

RIJEKA visitRijeka.hr FIUMANKA SUMMER ON GRADINA RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS RIJEKA ADVENT Be what you want to be! Come to the

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RIJEKA TOURIST BOARD Tourist information centre

Korzo 14 info@visitRijeka.hr +385 51 335 882

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Culture & Events 10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday European Junior Water Polo Championships In what is one of the most physically challenging world and Olympic sports, the Kantrida Sports Centre will host the best Europe’s juniors have to offer. Countries appearing include Belarus, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Croatia, France, Greece, Italy, Hungary, Germany, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain and the Ukraine.QSwimming Pools Kantrida, Podkoludricu 2.

Festival Opatija Archives

County Events 18.06 Saturday - 23.07 Saturday The Margaret’s Summer A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Venetians attacked the town.QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr.

Kastav Blues Festival Archives

01.07 Friday - 31.08 Wednesday Opatija Old-timer Tour Take a city bus, take a taxi, drive yourself, or why not be driven in a classic old-timer and see Opatija and its surroundings in what is a rare experience. Drives last for approximately 25 minutes and are set in the evenings. Vroom vroom and its fun for the entire family!QIn front of Hotel Milenij, Opatija. Every Tuesday 19:30 - 22:00.

08.07 Friday International Folklore Festival and Customs Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place.

Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments will perform.QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com

Kastav Cultiral Summer Archives

30.07 Saturday Basket Tour 2016 This new wave of modified basketball has become a world hit and as Croatia is a basketball mad country, 16 Croatian cities will be hosting the pre national competitions with the best teams playing off in the city of Rijeka. The national champions will represent Croatia at the FIBA World Tour Masters in Debrecen, Hungary.

Tournaments will be played in 4 categories (U13, U15, U18, seniors) with the best team winning valuable prizes. Entries are free and can be completed on the official website. This is dynamic basketball to say the least, don’t miss the three point comp, dunking contest, and other attractive side events.QD‑2, Korzo, www. basket-tour.com.

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09.07 Saturday Retropatija Retropatija brings us back to the 60`s, 70`s and 80`s which were memorable for all in this area. In the park behind Villa Angiolina one can see old-timer cars with music playing from their radios; dancers dressed in suits, popular drinks of that day are available and the biggest disco ball is set in an Open Air Theatre as a symbol of those times.QVilla Angiolina’s park, Open Air Theatre, Opatija., www.visitopatija.com 16.07 Saturday Opatija – The Imperial Town History and entertainment interwoven! Opatija’s streets, corners, gardens, villas, its promenade and beaches transform into one immense stage where re-enactments of famous people who would visit here are revived, with rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events secrets unravelled. See the Lumière brothers, Isadora Duncan, the Empress Sissi and others back in their day, alive and in action.QVarious locations, Opatija, www. visitopatija.com.

04.08 Thursday - 08.08 Monday 9th Kastav Blues Festival Craving a little blues this summer! You’ll witness performances by some amazing Croatian and international blues performers, such as Black Coffee, Tomislav Goluban, Belgrade Dixieland Orchestra, Michael Messer, Ty Le Blanc and many more. The event is held annually in honour of the USA country-blues musician Jerry Ricks who chose Kastav as his home and final resting place. By all admission, it’s free admission!QKastav, kastavbluesfest.com.

04.09 Sunday The 10th Učka’s Fair Looking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastronomy and ethnological heritage. See the local meals, products, crafts, music, and costumes that have survived over time and don’t forget your camera with exceptional panoramic views from up top.QUčka Nature Park, Lovran, Poklon, www.pp-ucka.hr.

16.09 Friday - 18.09 Sunday The Chamber Music Festival A culmination of classical music concerts by prominent names from Croatia and abroad has been held since 2004 and is growing annually. Nature by day, music by night, the natural locality has visitors going on walking tours and then when the sun falls, they enter the music hall which is an intimate setting for both performer and audience.

QRavna Gora, www.tz-ravnagora.hr.

23.09 Friday - 03.12 Saturday Festival Kvarner Extraordinary concerts in unordinary yet memorable venues. This EU funded event combines talented young European musicians with renowned singers and orchestras. See a remake of Haydn’s Armida and Orlando Paladino, to a fusion of musical genres where Klezmer meets Balkan rythmns, and Irish Folk meets Tango. Where else but in Opatija!QOpatija, www. festivalkvarner.com.

28.10 Friday - 29.10 Saturday Croatian Festival of klape vocal groups and mandolins Authentically Croatian, almost a brand in itself, klape vocal groups are usually a choir of male singers who majestically sing traditional songs about love, the sea, voyages, serenading and more. From tenor to baritone, their harmonies are felt as one. Immensely popular, some klape groups also include stringed instruments such as guitars and mandolins.QSports hall Marino Cvetković, Opatija, www.festival-klapa.com. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

opatija summer stage 04.06 SATURDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers. www.festivalopatija.hr 01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday The 15th Liburnia Jazz Festival The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 15 concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!QOpatija, www.liburniajazz.hr.

20.07 Wednesday The best of opera Devotees to opera will be stunned by this line-up which includes one of the most sought after sopranos of her generation Sumi Jo, and the globally acclaimed baritone Lucio Gallo. They will be joined by a young Rijeka soloist, mezzo-soprano Joan Srbljan and Slovenian tenor Aljaž Farasin. The orchestra and choir of the Opera Theatre Ivan Zajc will provide the backdrop of music.

22.07 Friday Tribute to Frank Sinatra Lucio Gallo, the world famous Italian baritone is set to honour one of his icons, Frank Sinatra. He will be accompanied by the well-known Italian jazz musician Claudio Chiara and his quintet of excellent musicians. Fly me to the moon & The Way You Look Tonight, are just some of the hits to be heard by one of America’s all-time greats!

01.08 Monday - 06.08 Saturday Solo Positivo Film Festival Organisers call this the Croatian Cannes thanks to the combo of seaside beauty and film in one. Summer Stage is set to go with the best international music documentary films produced over the past few years shown on the big screen. Qwww.spff.hr.

22.08 Monday - 26.08 Friday The 14th Liburnia Film Festival One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Ičići port near Opatija last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike!QIčići port, www.liburniafilmfestival.com. All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.

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Culture & Events

Photo by Edi Matić

a writer between countries An interview with Bekim Sejranović by Roman Simić Bodrožić Bekim Sejranović is not only a star of one literary genre, but many. He’s constantly on the move: traveling between Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Norway. The only chance you have of catching this writer and adventurer is either in Rijeka or Oslo, Brčko or Hvar, or Ljubljana or Zagreb. Literary awards are easy and don’t tie him down to the place: writing desks are everywhere. His writing is fed with travel and adventure. He’s equally at home on the North Sea and the Mediterranean, but perhaps most of all on the Sava and Danube rivers - where his latest novel, Your son, Huckleberry Finn, takes place. To be honest, Bekim moves from adventure to adventure like an unbridled 20thcentury version of Mark Twain’s hero.

Roman: So, for starters: north or south, a river or the sea? What’s better?

Bekim: I’d take them all - if I can… I like cross country skiing through Norwegian forests, I like taking a dip in the sea, and I like sailing the Savska Buba along the Sava. They all have their charms, and people get their kicks in all kinds of ways.

Roman: In some way your books always seem to revolve around growing up. You spent part of your childhood in Rijeka: a city known for its rock scene, 22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

peculiar vibe and mentality of its people, and it’s both an industrial city and a port city - unlike any other place in Croatia. How was Rijeka then, and how do you find it now?

Bekim: Every now and then - every three to four years or so - I get a fit of nostalgia for Rijeka and go back. I rent an apartment for a time; sometimes for a few years. Last time I lived there for half a year; then the road takes me somewhere else. I was married twice to girls from Rijeka, but instead of me going back to Rijeka, they ended up in Oslo where they are today (laughs). I have to write a story about “my” Rijeka. I hope I’ll do that one day. Well, I don’t know how others feel about those times, but for me they were the best years of my life; perhaps even the most important times for my development - at least that’s how I feel about it now. There were dozens and dozens of bands playing, so I also played with a few bands. We weren’t even just a garage band. But we were young, inexperienced, innocent, honest, hungry for success; that’s what we were all about. We played in basements and did concerts at Palach club. There, now I’m already getting nostalgic. Maybe I’ll try going back to Rijeka. It’s about time I started writing that book.

Roman: How much is traveling connected to writing, and how do they work together for you?

Bekim: Ever since I can remember I’ve been traveling: I’m always on the move, always staying in one place temporarily. I’ve always been aware of the “temporary nature” of my visits to certain places. And I’ve always fought rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events against the bureaucracy that seems to work against wanderers like me. I’m registered at three addresses but I don’t live at either of them. I’m afraid of pathos, but in fact, life is one great journey, which in my opinion isn’t about arriving at your destination as quickly as possible (because that’s death). It’s about seeing as much as possible during your adventures; meeting as many people as possible; seeing new places; listening to different stories from the same places or, vice versa, the same stories from different places. Traveling isn’t only about meeting other people. I’d say it’s actually more about getting to know yourself - your true self - without the wrappings imposed on us by society and civilization.

Roman: You’re not only a writer. Your son, Huckleberry Finn, is partially based on your experiences filming a documentary about your travels from Oslo, around Croatia to Bosnia, in an old VW beetle; then by boat along the Sava and Danube. Weren’t you supposed to go all the way to the Black Sea? Bekim: Well, yeah, but as you know we never made it because I was the captain, tour guide, producer, manager, and screenwriter. But like I said earlier, the Black Sea wasn’t our goal. But that trip I’ve managed to prolong for a few years. I’m still traveling towards the Black Sea, but I need a bigger boat than the Savska Buba.

Roman: You’ve always been a big fan of the sea and swimming - you’ve been to the Norwegian fjords and the sunny islands of the Adriatic - but don’t rivers have their own rules?

Bekim: Yes, I obviously swim in the Adriatic sea all year round: summer and winter. But rivers? It’s a little harder to swim or float in fresh water than in the sea. There are also dangerous currents. But at least you’re always within sight of land.

Roman: After all these kilometres and countries, what according to you is still an adventure? And what’s left to be discovered?

Bekim: I’m no longer looking for an adventure in the strict meaning of the word, because I don’t know if I was ever looking for one. Because in order to be an adventure - a real adventure - there must be some inherent danger or uncertainty: somebody might actually have to die. I’m a bit more “tranquillo”. The biggest adventure I have, is spending a weekend alone with my daughter; getting to know her world and teaching her the mysteries of life; all the while speaking a mixture of Slovenian, Croatian, and Bosnia. There’s an adventure for you: every visit to see my daughter in Ljubljana is an adventure. I go to a foreign country, speak a foreign language, I get to know a child’s world; learn from it; every now and then there’s some excitement caused by some kind of hazard (Watch out for the car!), or there’s the genuine laughter of children. And not to mention visiting my eldest daughter in Oslo. Everything is an adventure - you just need to know facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

how to have fun. When I was a child I would pretend to be Tarzan or some indian for days on end and nobody would even know.

Roman: Three special places: town squares, bays or mountains… for Bekim the writer.

Bekim: The Sava, Rijeka and Nordmark (enormous forest north of Oslo).

Roman: Huckleberry Finn does not want to - or can’t - grow up. Is that a story of our times? And is there a happy ending?

Bekim: Modern psychologists say so. They say that especially for males in our times, it’s impossible to grow up.

And perhaps they’re right. Because there are fifty-yearold men playing video games; not to mention our addiction to social media which is devastating our society.

On the other hand, what does it even mean to be grown up? To take care of yourself? Be responsible? I know many children who are more responsible and more aware of reality than their parents. I’m the best example for both cases: as a child and a parent. Recently I’ve been asking people what they want out of life. Everybody more or less wants the same thing: to do something meaningful, to be financially independent, to be free, to have a roof over their head, not be hungry, have family and friends, to love and be loved, to give and to receive, to live in the moment and be strong when necessary. Life is simple.

Just don’t be afraid and don’t take it too seriously. Time goes by; only stories are left behind.

Photo by Bojan - Haron Markičević

Summer 2016

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Restaurants py to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, info@nonofrane.hr, www. nonofrane.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn). P­T­ A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W Placa 51 When you have a dream, and that dream comes true: that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51 with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines, and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54, info@placa51.com, www.placa51.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­G­ B­X­S­W

Restaurant Maslina na zelenom Trgu Archives

Croatian Konoba Municipium Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, restaurant.municipium@gmail.com. Open 10:00 23:00. (70 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W Konoba Nebuloza Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, info@konobanebuloza. com, www.konobanebuloza.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P­T­J­ A­G­W Nono Frane Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than hap24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Ronjgi In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome.QRonjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, guido@ronjgi.com.hr, www.ronjgi.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. (50 - 80kn). P­T­A­6­ L­G­B­X­W

International Kamov Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious.

Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, bonavia@ bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 120kn). P­T­A­L­G­W Sorriso Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/ (+385-) 091 271 10 66, sorriso.rijeka@gmail.com, www. restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn).

P­T­N­G­B­X­W Spagho This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar. With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22, info@ristorantespagho.com, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­ G­B­X­S­W

Konoba A konoba is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian coast - simple and traditional, although some modern versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Blato In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70, josipam@blato1902.hr, www.konoba-blato. blato1902.hr/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sun. (25 - 80kn). P­T­A­G­X­W Ive This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65, konoba.ive@gmail.com, www.konoba-ive.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (25 - 60kn). T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Tarsa The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest,

making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria.

QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89, rojan@ri.t-com.hr. Open 11:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (40 - 120kn). P­T­A­6­U­ L­G­B­X­S­W Trsatica A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, restoran. trsatica@gmail.com, restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (45 - 350kn). P­T­6­B­X­W Volta 15 A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).

QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­W

Seafood Feral Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, manic61@me.com, www.konoba-feral.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. July - September Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. (30 - 120kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S­W

Mexican Mexican Cantina Bodega What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91, bodegarijeka@gmail.com, www.bodega.fullbusiness. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn).

P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W

Chinese Placa 51 Archives

26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Peking You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, linchunlei@net.hr, www. peking-ri.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). P­T­ A­L­G­B­X­S­W

Vegetarian Klub Makrovega Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices.

Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+38551) 32 11 45, makrovega.rijeka@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 30kn). P­T ­6­ N­G ­S ­W Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say. The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver.

QE‑2, Užarska 14 - u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/ (+385-) 097 624 05 24, info@prirodaidrustvo.com, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). i­T ­J ­6 ­V­ N­G ­B ­X ­W Tifan Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found 3pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers - not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, info@tifan.hr, www.tifan.hr. Open 06:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 60kn). P­i ­T ­A ­6 ­L ­G­ B­X ­S ­W

Quick Eats Bar Bar Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with Summer 2016

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Restaurants croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients. There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more. Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs!

A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod volton 6, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/(+385-) 091 739 31 99, barbar.rijeka@gmail. com, www.bar-bar.eu/. Open Mon, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 30kn). i­B­S Buffet Cocco Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53, margetic.ugostiteljstvo@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 110kn).

T­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Kantina Rijeka Situated on Conto, Kantina is a brekky/lunch/brunch café/ bar with various menu options from fish n chips or lasagne, to lots of fresh salads with chicken or tuna to various seafood snacks and soups. Light meals that are spot on at summer. Pop up arty type furniture, and a small courtyard with cover for some much valued seclusion.QF‑1, Titov trg 3, tel. (+385-51) 61 88 82, kantina.rijeka@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 15:30.

Pizza Bracera A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(29 - 80kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W Maslina na Zelenom trgu A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg also has his daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, wasabi tuna, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+38551) 56 35 63, info@pizzeria-maslina.hr, www.pizzeriamaslina.hr/na-zelenom-trgu/. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (32 - 94kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­S­W Pampas A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. Open 10:00 23:00. (27 - 85kn). P­T­V­N­G­B­X­S­W

Out of town: Cres Konoba Beli When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch, you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines, served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, hrzic05@ yahoo.com, www.beli-cres.com/konoba-beli/. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (60 - 140kn). P­N­B

Ičići Commodore A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska bb, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49, domicil@ri.t-com.hr, www. restoran-commodore.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 360kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W Dopolavoro If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents 28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, info@dopolavoro.hr, www.dopolavoro. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 130kn). T­A ­L ­G ­B­ X­S ­W

Kastav Mala riba This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, info@mala-riba.com, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W

Krk Bracera This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, info@konoba-bracera. com, www.konoba-bracera.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

(30 - 300kn). P­T­N­G­B­X­W Gospoja Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja. hr, www.gospoja.hr. April - October Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(40 - 180kn). T­A­L­G­B­X­S­W Konoba Nada If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www. nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October Open 12:00 - 22:00. (135 - 175kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W Rivica Restaurant Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

bistro • grill

Riva Boduli 3a 51000 Rijeka, Croatia info@placa51.com +385 (0)51/546 454

www.placa51.com @placa51 inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.

QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, rivica@rivica.hr, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­B­X­W

Lovran Draga di Lovrana Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food prepared with the utmost care. Try home-made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www. dragadilovrana.hr. Open Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Tue-Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Restaurants NaJade Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X

Mošćenička Draga Johnson This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it.QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, info@johnson.hr, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W

Opatija Bistro Yacht Club A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour - enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there.

The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try.

Zert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, info@yacht-clubopatija.com, www.yacht-club-opatija.com. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W Gastro World This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 00:00. (35 - 125kn).

P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W Istranka A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, comeprima@inet.hr, www. istranka.net. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). P­T­ A­6­G­B­X­W

Rab Kod Kineza Part of Rab’s cuisine scene for just short of two decades, Kod Kineza (named after the owner’s nickname) is worth a visit even if only for the simply amazing decor. The walls are festooned with the sort of knick-knacks and paraphernalia you’d expect on an Adriatic island; a blacksmith’s 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

bellows, muskets, powder horns, plus a number of sculptures all made from the wood of two old houses from Turopolje, salvaged all those decades ago. Best known for its pašticada, brudet od riba, and fritaja…QKneza Domagoja 2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 42 43/(+385-) 098 959 88 34, www.apartman-starcevic.com/index.php/konobakod-kineza. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (45 - 80kn). T­J­A­ 6­G­B­S­W Restaurant Ana Situated not too far from Rab’s main bus station, this eatery seems a firm favourite of residents of the island, which in itself speaks volumes. Very spacious, this restaurant would accommodate a number of groups without any being overly close to another. Great for families who might be worried about the young ‘uns getting underfoot, and it’s far enough away from the main hustle and bustle of the town. Like many restaurants on the island the menu is influenced by what is caught that morning, but certainly the cuttlefish is well worth having, if you’re partial.QPalit 80, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 43 76, contact@restaurant-ana. com, www.rab-ana.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 24:00. (50 - 400kn). P­T­A­6­U­L­B­W Šanpjer Terrace only, this small marina venue was possibly the highlight of a recent weekend break. Generous portions for what you’re paying (given that island prices tend to be higher than normal anyway), and there wasn’t a scrap of food sent back to the kitchen. Staff are exceptionally helpful and polite, and service is prompt. This reviewer had octopus salad and breaded shrimp, and could easily have had a second plate it was that good. An ideal venue to break-up an evening out, or to start one, or to end one…

QŠetalište kralja Petra Krešimira 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 83, sanpjer.rab@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:30.

(40 - 160kn). P­T­J­6­U­B­S­W

Volosko Lavrvs Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign.QNova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 13 55, laurus@villa-kapetanovic.hr, www. villa-kapetanovic.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 145kn).

P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W Plavi podrum A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.

QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, dkramari@inet.hr, www. plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­S­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

Vrbnik Tourist Board Archives

Food Markets Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age.

In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce.

For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce.

Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood.

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs.

In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads. But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen.

Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, Summer 2016

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Local Flavour which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs.

Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden…

Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…

Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you’re in town in the winter.

And let’s not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries.

With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with the morning’s gossip. This is where you can feel the beating heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It’s the real Rijeka.

Floating market Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

Local Dishes Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism pages 52-58 here we’ll focus on the gastronomy of the region.

Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.

Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you 32 Rijeka In Your Pocket

can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime.

This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68).

Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour of leaves for wild garlic. Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it.

On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.

Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight.

Marunada - Lovran Tourist Board Archives

pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic.

On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.

Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out.

In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels.

Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites.

The Foodie’s Guide 01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday Drink and Eat Festival of žlahtina Razgon opening Three days, two themes, and one aim - to gather and celebrate! Day one draws is dedicated to the Pavlomir winery in Novi Vinodolski, the family open their cellar doors for all to come and try their wine assortments. Day two is the Open Wine Cellars Day with Vrbnik vintners presenting the žlahtina wine sort, a white dry wine made from the indigenous variety žlahtina bijela, a wine unique to the island. Day three is entitled Razgon, which is the name given Summer 2016

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Local Flavour to the last day of the milking of sheep and their release to free grazing. One can step back in time with featured old crafts, folklore dancing and local authentic products.

QVrbnik, Krk Island.

09.07 Saturday The Blueberry Day One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the knowhow of this fruit through educational workshops and in the afternoon, all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other traditional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass orchestra band will perform.QRavna Gora.

10.07 Sunday - 17.07 Sunday Šurlice Days Feeling peckish! For one entire week restaurants on the island of Krk are offering special dishes made with šurlice pasta and prepared in various ways. On the two Sunday evenings, a small fair of local products as well as a musical programme will accompany the event.QVrbnik, Krk Island.

04.08 Thursday Dagnjada Relaxing by the sea, the intoxicating smell of mussels and coastal songs in the background - that is the shortest description that explains Dagnjade. Happy Race Teams will cook fresh mussels, carefully choosing their spices so that the taste of the Mediterranean is more intense. Games, entertainment, singing and dance will last until the early morning hours.QGrabrova Bay, Jadranovo.

16.08 Tuesday Folk Festival Rokova - Liganj On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association.

Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long will be prepped!QLovran.

30.08 Tuesday - 13.09 Tuesday RI Gastro: A week of figs and squid Scientific studies have proven that traditional Mediterranean diets are of super-duper value. So the city of Rijeka will for two weeks in August and September promote such foods authentic to the area at this time of year. Grandma’s recipes will be revived across various restaurants in town and at very affordable prices.QVarious locations, Rijeka, rigastro.visitrijeka.hr.

10.09 Saturday The Mushroom Days The Ravna Forest blossoms with mushrooms and visitors interested in mushroom picking are free to attend. Day includes a mushroom exhibition and a mushroom goulash cooking comp, an omelette made of 1000 eggs and mushrooms served. Eat up!QRavna Gora.

34 Rijeka In Your Pocket

01.10 Saturday - 02.10 Sunday Days of liganj (squid) Smother yourselves with squid cooked, fried and grilled in every shape and form under the sun. Locals have their century old methods and they don’t change a winning formula. Held in the heart of Crikvenica, turn local for two days and you can participate in squid fishing, cooking, drinking wining and dancing to Mediterranean melodies.

QCrikvenica.

08.10 SATurday - 09.10 SUNday 15.10 SATurday - 16.10 SUNday 21.10 FRIday - 23.10 SUNday The 43rd Marunada Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October celebration since they are featured in every meal and event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets made with maruni (turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts, rump-steak in chestnut sauce, chestnut ice-cream, frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). Things turn really nutty with a series of events including a bocce tournament, a bicycle race, the hiking race Učka Vertical, an old timers car show and a fishing competition.QLiganj, Dobreć and Lovran.

02.12 Friday - 04.12 Sunday Chocolate Festival A December sweetener with the best Croatian and international chocolate brands, and small specialised manufacturers presenting original chocolate products! Workshops, lectures, tastings, concerts and exhibitions dedicated to chocolate take place in Opatija’s hotels and restaurants, art galleries, exhibition pavilions, and museums and schools.

A special addition is the ‘Opatija Paradox’ where various chocolate flavours are combined under expert guidance with quality wines from the region.QOpatija, www. visitopatija.com.

02.12 Friday - 09.12 Friday RI Gastro: Chocolate Week All chocoholics tune in, get ready to dabble and nibble on all sorts of Choco goodies made available over the seven days. FYI, as Rijeka is a port city, the first chocolate and cocoa factory in this part of Europe was opened and in its honour, this sweet historical fact will be accompanied by a locally designed souvenir ‘chocolates and pralines from Rijeka’.QVarious locations, Rijeka, rigastro. visitrijeka.hr.

09.12 Friday - 16.12 Friday RI Gastro: Codfish Week Believe it or not, the cod has God like status in this part of the world. Century old traditions in drying the fish haven’t changed a bit and it is often eaten during fasting seasons in Easter and Christmas. It is usually prepared in two ways: in bianco as a spread or as a red-tinted stew with potatoes - maritime style. Invitations are open!QVarious locations, Rijeka, rigastro.visitrijeka.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Gelateria Corso Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of people-watching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51) 30 19 45/(+385-) 099 213 11 66, korzoslastice.rijeka@gmail.com, www. gelateria-corso.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­N­ G­B­X­W

Gastro World Continental Archives

Slatko by Piko This is the first Piko outlet dedicated solely to those with a sweet tooth. They offer a myriad of cakes, pastries, tarts, desserts and fancies. You can even order your own custom made cake for your special celebrations via a unique terminal in the shop. Ingenious!QKorzo 33b, tel. (+385-51) 58 55 44, pik.rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W

Cakes

Coffee

Choco bar bonbonnière Kraš Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco.QD‑2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, chocobarrijeka@kras. hr, www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W

Book Caffe Dnevni boravak For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, Ciottina 12a, dnevniboravak.ri@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 00:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:00. P­T­ J­6­E­N­X­W

Cukerin Here is a sweet tooth haven with juicy cakes, French macaroons, chocolate cookies and many sweets and savoury snacks on offer. Morning, brunch and lunch all seem to have their own special menu. From warm croissants to quiche pie with veggies or bacon, there’s plenty to explore. Coffee, beer and wine to suit every occasion; as well as lit candles and music to make your experience a wholesome one.QD‑1, Pod Kaštelom 9, tel. (+385-51) 44 49 50, cukerin@cukerin.com, www.cukerin.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. P­T­J­A­6­G­ B­X­S­W Dolce Bolero A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brickred walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionery assault.QD‑2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 03 43, dolcebolero.ri@gmail.com, www. dolcebolero.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. P­T­J­N­G­ B­X­W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Cukarikafe The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 82 76, cukarikafe.bar@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 -23:00. P­T­A­6­ G­B­X­W Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the VBZ bookshop which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:00 - 23:00. T­J­6­N­G­B­X­W Iskra Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace Summer 2016

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac - both gutsy southern reds.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06, caffe.iskra@yahoo.com. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W Kosi toranj Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE‑2, Put vele crikve 1, tel. (+38551) 33 62 14, privus.rijeka@gmail.com. Open 07:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­N­B­X­W Striga In the same building as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1, Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11, happyplace.doo@ gmail.com. June - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­J­6­N­B­X­W

Vintage bar You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum.

QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B

Opatija Coffee Café Wagner Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescentshaped terrace whatever the weather.QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, info@ milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 07:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 07:00 24:00. P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W Palme Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+38551) 70 63 18, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotel-bristol. hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­T­A­G­B­X­W

Bars

Gastro World Continental Archives

Bačva Another multipurpose place where visitors can enjoy sipping on coffee, as well as make the most of pleasant evening socialising with intimate live performances, poetry readings, rock concerts and other events. Very cosy type urban atmosphere!QC/D‑2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385-) 092 346 91 88, klubbacva.ri@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 07:00 - 03:00.

Closed Sun. P­T­J­N­B­X­W Champagne bar Pommery Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife.

Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the locals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be seen.QD‑2, Trg Republike 2a, tel. (+385-) 091 444 16 66.

Open 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. P­T­ J­6­E­N­B­X­W

Photo by Marša Gajinov

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Galaxie bar Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22, galaxiebarrijeka@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

P­T­6­L­N­G­B­X­W Hemingway bar Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktailsipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 32 44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, opatija@hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 06:00. P­T­A­ 6­G­B­X­W Karolina Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.

During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W Mirage The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively.

A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, Istarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99, zvonko.berisic@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W Nad urom Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee. However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+38551) 33 33 38, novikorzo@gmail.com, www.nadurom. com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­ J­N­G­B­X­W Pepe Rosso In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really!QD‑3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/ (+385-) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30 - 03:00. Closed Sun. P­T­A­E­G­B­X­W Rakhia bar This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 514 65 99, rene.1407@hotmail.com. Open Mon, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­6­N­B­X­W Sabrage Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37, info@sabragebar.com, www.sabragebar.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­E­N­B­X­W Teta Roža Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, tetarozadomagoj@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W The Beertija Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning! It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83, kristijan.coza@gmail.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00. P­T­A­6­E­B­X­W Summer 2016

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife River pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73, novikorzo@gmail.com. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 06:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.

Closed Sun. P­T­J­N­B­X­W

Wine bars Rakhia Bar Archives

kod Zajca wine&coffee bar Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10, darijosobol@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T ­J ­E ­N­ B­X ­W

Clubs

Rakhia Bar Archives

Pubs Celtic Caffe Bard A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 24:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­6­N­B­X­W Phanas Pub A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, phanas@phanas. hr, www.phanas.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 05:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­J­A­E­X­W 38 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Boa This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 02:00. P­J­E­N­B­X­W Nina 2 One of the three permanently anchored boats in the port of Rijeka. During the day you can enjoy coffee, during the night the boat turns into a club with entire upper floor from bow to stern becoming the dance floor. Every weekend there’s something happening, guest DJs, live bands and special events. But if the heat gets too much there’s also an open terrace area especially arranged for relaxation and conversation.QC‑2, Adamićev gat, tel. (+385-) 099 584 32 03, optimus.oprema@gmail.com. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­E­N­B­X­W Teuta The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with a great choice of good music, characterized by its friendly atmosphere where people know how to relax.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays expect performances by the best the DJs, VJs, singers and musicians with a modern urban twist. It is split into two floors which with multimedia support are merged into one.QE‑2, Užarska 1. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. N­G ­B rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

The Rijeka Astronomical Center - Rijeka Sport Archives

Essential Rijeka St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:30 - 13:00, 14:00 - 19:00, Mon 06:30 - 17:00.

The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate - the original entrance to the Roman settlement facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea - everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.

QD‑2, Korzo.

The Corso (Korzo) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo.

The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain Summer 2016

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Sightseeing painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newlylandscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE‑3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14/(+385-51) 35 59 07, propaganda@ hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr. Box office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. 6th June - 22nd July Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, and one hour before the show.

Trsat Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day.

For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irishborn Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the AustroHungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on 40 Rijeka In Your Pocket

their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1.

Churches The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.

It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:00.

The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00.

QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77.

Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated.

Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe!

The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka Marulića bb.

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30.

Fountains The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.

Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg.

The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.

The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova.

Historical areas Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.)

Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures.

It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.

QE‑1, Kalvarija.

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Sightseeing Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.)

Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).

Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ.

The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.

The Old City (Stari grad) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

Industrial Rijeka The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, 42 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA‑1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing remains of its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.

QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klović.

Hurricane!

Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005.

Photo by Marša Gajinov

Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter.

QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Landmarks Archaeological Park The newly renovated Archaeological Park has recently opened in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The 44 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Islamic Center Rijeka The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors.

The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high. Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, mizrijeka1@gmail.com, www.medzlis-rijeka.org.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva.

Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume.

War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.

During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s.

Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline.

However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD‑3.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.QF‑1/2, E‑2.

Sušak - Pećine The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during AustroHungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).

Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana BrlićMažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.

In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S‑3/4.

The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese - grobnički sir - try it if you see it on the menu.QE‑2, Užarska.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta).

It is set in a building which was built in 1941 as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations in planetarium are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 19:30, and in observatory every Saturday at 22:00. Fore detailed working hours of planetarium and observatory please call (+385-51) 45 57 00.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+38551) 45 57 00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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Sightseeing The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića.

The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg.

Museums City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, info@muzejrijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. June - September Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. October - May Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. May - November Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD‑1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr.

During exhibitions open 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, info@muzejdjetinjstva.com, www.muzejdjetinjstva. com. May - November Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors.

Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century.

Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections.

For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp.hr. Open Mon 09:00 - 16:00, Tue - Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.

Admission 10 - 15kn.

Peek&Poke - Computer Museum Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo.

QC‑2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. May - September Open Tue - Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. October - April Open Tue - Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Mon by prior arrangement. Admission depending on the exhibition.

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rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, info@prirodoslovni.com, www.prirodoslovni.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building.QC‑2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, glagoljica@svkri.hr, www.svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 14:00 with prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Palaces The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1.

The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.

While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did enfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

gage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.

The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC‑2, Riva.

The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Modello Building (Palača Modello) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca.

The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in

A MASTER OF LIGHTNING This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe.

The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe. With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen.

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Sightseeing

Gallery Kortil Archives

1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices.

Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

Parks The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.

QV‑2, Trsat.

The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.

The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

48 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden - it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.

Religious collections The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 with prior arrangement.

Closed Sun. Admission free.

The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsatsvetiste.com. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives

Opatija Riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century vilSummer 2016

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Rijeka Surroundings las - many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

Opatija Tourist Information Center QMaršala Tita 128, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, tic@ visitopatija.com, visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

Crikvenica Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikveni-

ca developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry). Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 35kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

The Memorial Centre Lipa Remebers (Memorijalni centar Lipa pamti)

Crikvenica Tourist Information Center QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, crikvenica@tzg-crikvenice.hr, www.rivieracrikvenica. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ opened its doors to the public for the very first time.

Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children. The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most residential and commercial buildings. By the end of World War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers with its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never forgetting the past. The Centre also signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehistory to the present day.QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, lipapamti@ ppmhp.hr, www.lipapamti.ppmhp.hr/. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.

This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded. You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular.

Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

50 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Novi Vinodolski

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings

Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information Center QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, info@tznovi-vinodolski.hr, www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Krk So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many Summer 2016

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Rijeka Surroundings its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

Krk Tourist Information Center QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, tic@tz-krk.hr, www.tz-krk.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Cres

Photo by Marša Gajinov

Apoxyomenos Archives, Photo by Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić

appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with 52 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

Cres Tourist Board QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, info@visitcres. hr, www.tzg-cres.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June 1 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Lošinj You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.

Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones.

The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Apoxyomenos The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation.

Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos. The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background.

The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

with the use of mirrors.QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, info@muzejapoksiomena. hr, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Due to the fact that tours of the museum take place in limited groups it is necessary to book exact time and date of your visit in advance at info@muzejapoksiomena.hr. Admission 40 - 115kn. J Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, losinj@ visitlosinj.hr, www.tz-malilosinj.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Rab Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone. Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands.

On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities. Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

Rab Tourist Board QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, info@ rab-visit.com, www.rab-visit.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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Health Tourism vironment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

Available treatments A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering Thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

Clinics & Hospitals

Thalassotherapia Opatija Archives

Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing.

Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort.

Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system.

The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today.

Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.

Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural en54 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Katunar All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.QDr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, poliklinika.katunar@ inet.hr, www.poliklinika-katunar.hr. A Medico State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email.QE‑1/2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, medico@medico.hr, www.medico.hr. A Poliklinika Medikol Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email.

QO‑3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+38551) 68 80 39, pet-ct.ri@medikol.hr, www.medikol.hr. A Pro Vita Full range of specific and general examinations, checkups also available. Full details on website or contact via email.QC‑2, Trpimirova 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, poliklinika.pro-vita@ri.t-com.hr, www.poliklinikaprovita.hr. A Villa Elite Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic surgery. More info via website.QNova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran@ zgaljardic.surgery. A Zambelli Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, dr@mariozambelli.com, www.mariozambelli.com. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism

Photonet Archives

Dentists Dental Studio Vukanović A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.QK‑3, Lošinjska 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60, info@dental-vukanovic.hr, www.dental-vukanovic.hr. A Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.QM‑2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, info@ordinacija-bocina.hr, www. ordinacija-bocina.hr. A Dentorium Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all the information.QD‑2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, info@dentorium.hr, www. dentorium.hr. A Dent Vitalis Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details are on their website.QO‑3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 68 83 80, hr@dentvitalis.com, www. dentvitalis.com. A Dr. Blašković Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services.

View their website or contact via phone or email.QR‑2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, info@blaskovic.com, www.blaskovic.com. A Dr. Jelušić Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email.QMatuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, dr@jelusic.com, www.jelusic.com. A 56 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website.QIvana Zajca 4/1, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 12 83/(+385-) 091 511 84 44, karolina.kokic.boric@ gmail.com, www.ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. A Kalmar Implant Dentistry All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer.

Visit their web site.QIzviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, info@kalmardent.com, www.kalmar.hr. A Pavličević - Kustić Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website.QPreradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22, info@pavlicevic-kustic.hr, www. pavlicevic-kustic.hr. A Rident All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information.QM‑2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, info@rident. hr, www.rident.hr. A Škodadent Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.QM‑2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66, info@skodadent.com, www.skodadent.com. A Smile Studio Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.QM‑2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 78, info@smilestudio.hr, www.smilestudio.hr. A ViaDent Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism phone.QPetra Jurčića 2a, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35/(+385-) 091 401 81 10, info@viadent.hr, www.viadent.hr. A

Health & Spa Gordana Poščić Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email.QR‑3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, info@fizio-gp.hr, www. fizio-gp.hr. A Laurana Spa Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, info@wellness.hr, www.laurana.wellness.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Terme Selce If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection.

Q1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, info@terme-selce.hr, www.terme-selce.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.QGajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 76 66, fax (+385-51) 78 50 62, info@thalasso-ck.hr, www. thalasso-ck.hr.

Thalassotherapia Opatija The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, thalassotherapia-opatija@ri.t-com. hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. Open 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Five Elements Wellness & Spa Marina Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.QAleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, www. liburnia.hr.

Novi Spa Hotels & Resort The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!QNovi Vinodolski, info@hoteli-novi.hr, www.novi.hr.

Alternative medicine Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped. hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine.

Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

Fitness & Beauty Kantrida Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs.QJ‑3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, kantrida@blue-gym.com, www. blue-gym.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30.

Closed Sun. A Scipion Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes.QMilutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 76, scipion@scipion.hr, www.scipion.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Sun - (physiotherapy). A

Wellness

Organic & Natural

Comfort Zone Space Bonavia Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.QC‑2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. A

Bio&Bio Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics store.QD‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, ri1@ biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Five Elements Wellness & Spa Ambasador Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, www.liburnia.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

L’occitane Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty Summer 2016

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Health Tourism line for adult skin.QC‑2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 32, rijekakorzo@loccitane.hr, www.loccitane.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A LS Kozmetika Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy.

Qprirodna@lskozmetika.hr, www.lskozmetika.hr.

Nikel Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dmshops and selected pharmacies. More info via website.

Qwww.nikel.com.hr.

Health Tourism Agencies Croatia Medical Travel QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, info@croatia-medical-travel.com, www.croatiamedical-travel.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A

swimming Yup, you’re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can’t see too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go for a dip? In the city itself there are about 20 beaches which are located to the east and west with two of them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly arranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration with additional facilities, hospitality and children’s playgrounds.

The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio to Preluk which is perfect for windsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all beaches and if you’re lucky enough to have a car, there is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west.

Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has brochure with maps of all beaches and their surrounding amenities which can be picked up at their offices or simply download it from the web.

Kantrida Swimming Pools QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, bazenikantrida@rijekasport.hr, www.rijekasport.hr/ BazeniKantrida. Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wed, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.

58 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Health insurance Croatia osiguranje QC‑2, Korzo 39, tel. (+385-51) 20 77 77, info@crosig.hr, www.crosig.hr.

Sunce osiguranje QD‑2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 50 10 04, podruznicarijeka@sunce.hr, www.sunce.hr.

Uniqa QD‑2, Korzo 11, tel. (+385-51) 35 92 00, info@uniqa.hr, www.uniqa.hr.

Field trips Birdwatching In this region there are several sites where you can spot birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Birdwatching Croatia.

The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one!

Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44.

Mount Učka The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr.

Horse riding, Jelenje Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 25 58 666, kk.vodicajna@gmail.com. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries.

The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake.

Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr.

The Frog Museum, Lokve This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-) 099 305 50 77. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 10kn.

Brseč, near Opatija A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.

Jadranovo, near Rijeka This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay.

The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+38551) 83 61 33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr.

Lokve, Gorski kotar A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka Sport Archives

lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.tz-lokve.hr.

Go Gourmet The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy.

Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables.

Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home.

All of this means that people from Croatia’s coast are often enviably healthy.

While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meaning obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to anchovies).

Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets.

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Health Tourism Dobra vina For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and international wines.QC‑2, Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 62 75 16, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. Open 09:00 22:00. A

Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

Goranska borovnica Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit liquors, dry fruits.QBelo selo, Fužine, tel. (+385-) 091 512 47 12, pero.kozlica@ri.t-com.hr, www.goranskaborovnica.com.

Gospoja An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highlyregarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room.

This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both try and buy their wines and spirits.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk Island, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@ gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr.

Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

Kastavski spomeni Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs.

QJurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel. (+385-) 098 988 14 14, info@ kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www.kastavski-spomeni-to. hr. Open April 15 - October 15 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Natura Rab Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products and oh so more.QBarbat 677, Rab, www.natura-rab.hr.

Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it’s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blueberries or prunes. You may come across unusual items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse (puh).

Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) is irresistible.

When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for (lovranski maruni).

Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat.

60 Rijeka In Your Pocket

OPG Magriž Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), wine and olive oil.Q17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) 85 13 51.

OPG Pintar Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice.QNarodnog oslobođenja 23, Čabar, tel. (+385-51) 82 10 89, opg.pintar@gmail. com, www.pintar.hr.

Rijeka Fish Market Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture of this port city.

Sirana Runolist Say ‘cheese’! 100% natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the Rijeka Market.QŠpilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, tomaic-commerce@gs.t-com.hr, www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Shopping |croatian

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

BOROVO STORES IN RIJEKA: Korzo 12 Krešimirova 12A

Antiques Mali neboder Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, antikvarijat@ri.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A Triton Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.

QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, triton.antikviteti@gmail.com.

Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

Art galleries Laval Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33, galerijalaval@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mala galerija In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

open for more then 40 years. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morčić - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, mala-galerija@ri.t-com.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr.

Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Velčić North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery with the permanent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of works by many other Croatian artists.QD‑1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-51) 33 21 49, vvelcic@inet.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Delicatessen Deliiicije Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries.QE‑2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, rijeka.korzo@dupin.hr, www. deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 30 00, trgovina.rijeka@gligora.com, www.gligora. com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00.

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Shopping affordaBLE ART Acrylic paintings of people

by Tomo Vukas In his words, ‘the pencil is my weapon, my dreams, my drawings, my sculptures, my fight with myself. I paint simple topics, usually the sea, and observers strain to taste the wind’s breath, the salty air, and listen to the breathing of the waves.’ Vukas lives for his work and his expression, works in acrylic that impart old and forgotten stories through his representation of the people and the city in which they live, to a new generation. Art from the heart! QRijeka, tel. (+385-) 091 564 68 00, vukas.t@gmail. com, www.tomovukasart.com.

Morčić of the new generation

by Vilim Luksetić Turning natural coral ‘red gold’ as well as raw sea materials including sea shells, sponges, pearl, oysters, turtle shells, and other coral into lavish jewellery items, the Morčić of the 21st century, appreciated and valued all over the world. Choose from very modern to classical bracelets, necklaces, earrings, broaches, rings, pendants, and more. Essential, original, elegant!QMaršala Tita 93/7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 28 72, www.morsko-blago.hr.

Umbrella by Vjekoslav VOJO Radoičić An umbrella is always handy to have and the city umbrellas of Rijeka bear vivid and colourful motives of city landmarks which were authentically designed and created by Vojo Radoičić. This artist, painter, printmaker, illustrator, set designer, sculptor, and author of children’s picture books will ensure this take home souvenir will have you singing in the rain…

Kušaonica Frajona Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique or Žlahtina), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Piko delicije A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, pik. rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A Pip Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A 62 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Vinoteka 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE‑3, Demetrova 14a, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www.blato1902.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

Gifts & Souvenirs Filatelija Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.

QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, filatelija@ ri.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. N Šta da?

The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97, happyhobbyri@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Made in Croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel. (+38551) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka Polića Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 42 20 95, www. guliver.hr. Open Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Tue 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Mari Cro design studio If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02, t.o.mari@ri.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun, July 21 - August 22 Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Hotels 4 Stars Grand Hotel Bonavia QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, fax (+385-51) 33 59 69, bonavia@bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. doubles €128 - 164. P­J­H­A­R­6­F­L­G­B­K­D­W hhhh Hotel Jadran QS‑3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/ (+385-51) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@ jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (28 singles €82 - 97, 35 doubles €97 - 114, 3 triples €160, 1 suite €245, 2 Junior Suite €144). P­H­A­R­U­I­ G­B­K­W hhhh

3 Stars

Grand Hotel Bonavia Archives

As Rijeka is becoming a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels.

Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Continental QF‑1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića 1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, kontinental@jadranhoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (13 singles €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior Suite €151). A­6­K hhh Neboder QF‑1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+38551) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, neboder@jadranhotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 54 rooms (8 singles €63 - 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). P­J­H­A­6­I­L­ G­K hhh

Hostel Botel Marina QC‑2/3, Adamićev gat bb, tel. (+385-51) 41 01 62/(+385) 098 25 82 20, info@botel-marina.com, www.botelmarina.com. 35 rooms (1 single €37 - 43, 12 doubles €25 - 28, 7 triples €20 - 24, 12 quads €17 - 21, 3 Dorm: €15 - 19) 35 rooms, 19 - 47€ per person. P­i ­J­H­ A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh Dharma QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-51) 56 21 08/(+385-) 095 844 95 67, fax (+385-51) 58 35 74, info@dharmahostels. com, www.dharmahostels.com/hr. 12 rooms, 22 - 36€ per person. P­H­A­R­6­L­G­K­W Kosy QE‑2, Užarska 1, tel. (+385-) 091 361 28 91, hostelkosy@ gmail.com, www.hostelkosy.com. 17 dorm beds, 135 180kn per person. P­J­A­6­G­W Youth Hostel Rijeka QR/S‑3, Šetalište XIII. divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr.

13 rooms (3 singles €28 - 35, 3 doubles €20 - 25, 4 quads €15 - 17, 1 1/5 Dormitory €14 - 16, 3 1/6 Dormitory €14 16, 2 1/8 Dormitory €13 - 15) 13 rooms, 61 dorm beds, 10.70 - 37€ per person. i­T­A­6­G­B­K­W Summer 2016

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Maps & Index

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RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus

64 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Kor Adam

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Orlando v gat

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Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art štansko and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace Maritime pristaništ e City Museum Bečko pr istanište Natural History Museum Palace of Justice St. Vitus’ Church St. Sebastian’s Church Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” Old Town Hall in Rijeka Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower “Modello” Palace Main market Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas City Tower “Ploech” Palace Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery Railway station P/B “Uragan” State archives Rijeka

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Žabica

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Trg Kralja Tomislava

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Brajda

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Fiorella la Gua rdie

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vića

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Ive Marin ković

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