Rijeka In Your Pocket No18

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2018

Croatian Cultural Dictionary Phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

N°18 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Meet Janko Polić Kamov Rijeka’s favourite rebel

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A warm welcome from our editor in chief

32

Discover what we uncovered

Janko Polić Kamov

6

Kvarner

43

Out and about

Rijeka’s favorite rebel

What’s On 8 Events galore

Croatian Cultural Dictionary

16

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

Restaurants

Sightseeing

18

Weekend Getaway

49

Northern Velebit National Park

Health Tourism

51

Thalassotherapy - Marine Medicine

Shopping

54

Lunch or dinner, you pick

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Local Flavour 24 Keep tradition with cuisine

Accomodation categories in Croatia

Coffee&Cakes

Rijeka Basics

28

Are you ready to party?

57 60

Making your stay stress free

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife

Where to stay

30

Maps&Street Register Street index / City centre map City map

62 64

Photo by Višnja Arambašić The sheep is an animal you’ll often come across on the Kvarner islands. Kvarner lamb and sheep’s milk cheeses are delicacies you shouldn’t miss.

The meat and milk are lent a special flavour thanks to the wide variety of aromatic herbs the animals eat while grazing.

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Summer 2018

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Foreword The city of Rijeka, which is known mostly as a port and industrial city, is slowly getting a facelift and gearing its services towards the everyday lives of the locals as well as its ever-growing visitor numbers. Thus, whilst already having the image as the country’s ‘urban capital’ with a strong alternative rock scene, Rijeka now has those social hot spots by the sea which are commonly associated with the Mediterranean. In addition, it was recently announced the European City of Culture 2020, a prestigious achievement which the city is already working towards.

Our feature on local specialties and dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home. In case you wish to escape the hustle of the city it is hugely advisable to visit the Kvarner islands or find shade in the lush green mountain region of Gorski kotar or the Učka mountain.

Either way, nature’s serenity is aplenty!

COver story Bird’s eye view of the containers in Rijeka’s city port taken by @vladfran. croatia

6 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover @vladfran.croatia Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Rijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Janko Polić Kamov Leaning nonchalantly against the railings in front of the Continental Hotel is a life-size statue of a lanky young man, angular faced turned towards the sky. It’s one of those urban sights that tourists might pass more than once during their stay in Rijeka without ever paying too much attention to the question of who it actually represents. There is, after all, no plaque.

Sculpted by Zvonimir Kamenar in 2000 it portrays Janko Polić Kamov (1886-1910), the Rijeka-born writer who blazed a brilliant path through the world of modernist poetry, fiction and non-fiction before dying in Barcelona at the tender age of 24.

Rijeka is enormously proud of Kamov, a key figure in the Croatian literary canon who would be as internationally crucial as Camus, J.D. Salinger or Arthur Rimbaud if only his oeuvre was more widely known With the onset of Rijeka 2020 and the international focus on the city’s cultural heritage that will undoubtedly come from that, maybe the time has come for Kamov to make the belated jump from Croatian cult to global classic. The recent publication of his short stories in English, Farces & Novellas (available from Barnes & Noble, Amazon and other online bookstores as an e-book or digital print), certainly provides the necessary literary springboard. Janko Polić was born on November 7 1886 in the eastern suburb of Sušak. His merchant father was the co-founder of Polich, Minach et Comp., Rijeka’s biggest department store, and also a key figure in publishing Croatian patriotic newspapers. This bourgeois-patriotic background provided Polić junior with plenty of reasons to become a rebel.

Polić’s high-school days saw his bolshy instincts emerging.

He co-founded a short-lived nationalist group called Cefas which harboured lofty but unfulfilled ambitions to fight the Austro-Hungarian state with terrorism. Expelled from school after spitting in the face of a teacher who gave him too high a mark, Polić ended up in the Ožegovićianum, a church-run boarding school in Senj, an experience which if anything hardened his rebellious nature.

When his dad’s business went down the drain the family moved to Zagreb, where the teenage Janko was introduced to the world of cafes and brothels. Aged 18 he joined a travelling theatre troupe as a prompter and occasional actor, travelling through Dalmatia and Bosnia and generally living a bohemian life. His father and mother died in 1905 and 1906 respectively, removing any firm anchor to settled family life. Polić was an inveterate traveller, a kind of cultural nomad before his time, spending a lot of time in northern 8 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Photo source Wikipedia

Italy and becoming fascinated by the cities of the Mediterranean rim. He spent several summers on the island of Krk and also made fleeting return visits to Zagreb before heading for Barcelona on his final journey in June1910.

Adopting the nickname Kamov (based on the Biblical Ham, son of Noah, who once found his father drunk and naked), Polić had begun contributing essays and criticism to Zagreb journal Pokret in early 1907. His collections of poetry, Psovka (Profanity) and Ištipana hartija (Pinched Paper), both published in 1907, were precocious, morbid and morally ambiguous “I will rape you, blank paper” he wrote in rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Janko Polić Kamov Indeed the initial reaction of the Croatian literati to Kamov’s oeuvre was at the outside rather ambiguous. Aside from poet and revolutionary Vladimir Čerina, who set himself the task of bringing Kamov’s work to a wider audience after his death, Kamov was regarded by most of his Croatian contemporaries as a promising writer full of potential who had published too much unpolished work too early in his career. They also had a problem with the fact that Kamov was not a socially engaged writer. He was too distrustful of Croatian nationalism to appeal to a patriot like Antun Gustav Matoš, and too disinterested in politics to get the unconditional thumbs up from committed lefties like Miroslav Krleža. Nowadays it is the prose of Matoš and Krleža that seems slightly archaic, and it’s Kamov who speaks to us in the direct, edgy, disturbing voice of a writer who could quite easily be one of our contemporaries.

The other problem that Croatian writers had with Kamov was that they found it difficult to tell which literary genre he belonged to. Kamov’s writing anticipated lots of twentieth-century avant-gardes but he was writing at a time when none of those avant-gardes had yet been given a name. There are elements of Futurism in his prose, especially in the non-fiction pieces he wrote for Pokret. However the Futurist movement wasn’t launched until 1909, by which time Kamov had already established his own style; he was a writer doing his own thing at a time when there were no clear manifestos to follow.

Kamov’s piece “Beneath the Aeroplane”, written in Bologna in May 1910, is part reportage, part opinion-piece and part free-flowing prose poem; precisely the kind of ambitious non-fiction writing that gets published in American literary journals today.

the poem “Prelude”, setting out a provocative writing programme to which he remained true for the rest of his life.

Kamov’s short stories, Knjiga lakrdija i novela (1908) read like a series of dispatches from the bohemian-misfit world which Kamov had chosen to inhabit.

Kamov’s Isušena kaljuža (“The Drained Swamp”), an avantgarde, almost stream-of-consciousness novel before its time, was written in three blocks beginning in Zagreb in 1906 and finished off during Italian travels of 1909. It wasn’t published until 1956, when poet and publisher Dragutin Tadijanović set to work organizing Kamov’s collected works. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

It’s arguably as a precursor of existentialism that Kamov should be best appreciated. His stories are full of loners and rebels who feel out of place, unsure of what to commit themselves to, unable to say whether alcohol and sex constitute dissipating vices or a worthy modern occupation “I cannot imagine anything more insane than our life, our Earth, our people, and our comprehension of this insanity” ran one of Kamov’s aphorisms, published posthumously in the Italian literary magazine Lacerba in 1913.

It’s high time the international reading community to get to grips with Kamov, and the short stories contained in Farces & Novellas are the best places to start.

By Jonathan Bousfield Summer 2018

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Photo by Đorđe Jandrić; Druga SCULPTURA, 1991. Viewing Instructions: Performative Practice in Photography and Video

What’s On Enrich your calendar, see the exhibitions, concerts, and special events in and around town

What’s What’s On On Rijeka is already gearing up for its stint as European Capital of Culture in 2020, with an broader than ever range of exhibitions and festivals. Many of the events happening in 2018 and 2019 will be supported by the Rijeka 2020 organization in order to raise the city’s cultural profile in the build-up to the big year. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art’s recent move to new premises in the Benčić former factory complex (see “What to See”) is the first of the big infrastructural projects to reach completion.

Other developments will be reported fully in future editions of Rijeka In Your Pocket.

Exhibitions 24.05 - 30.09 » Gustav Klimt Gustav Klimt, despite being a sexist rogue who conducted multiple affairs with his models, enjoys a continually rising reputation as one of the greatest painters of the CentralEuropean fin-de-siecle – a status confirmed by the fact that his most famous work, The Kiss, can nowadays be seen decorating coffee mugs all the way from Wolverhampton to Vladivostok. The exhibition here consists of 15 of Klimt’s posters, and thereby represents a good opportunity to get to grips with his seductive way with a crayon, whatever one might think about the man who made the art.QVilla Angiolina - Museum of Croatian Tourism, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

wasn’t confirmed until three years later; hence the title of this exhibition. QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

01.05 - 30.09 » The First in the World – Rijeka Torpedo You are at home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a launching station and numerous screenings. Why? Because Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented!​ QB-1, Željezničko skladište, Žabica 4. 30/20kn, www. muzej-rijeka.hr.

18.05.2018 - 31.05.2019 » That Nice Little Worm-like Monster From the Seabed This homage to the humble polychaete or bristle worm features some beautiful underwater photography and some solid educational content, revealing just how important these little things are to the marine ecosystem – and how easily the delicate equilibrium of the ecosystem can be overturned by careless human intervention.

QD‑1, The Natural History Museum, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com.

04.05 - 01.07 » Viewing instructions: What does the body want?

A selection of works taken from the museum’s huge permanent collection, roughly corresponding to the theme of “the body as a potential guide to the understanding of art”. Best advice is to throw the theoretical framework away and simply enjoy what’s on show: a scintillating collection of paintings, sculpture, installations and video art from the last 50 years or so. QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

07.06 - 08.07 » The Radoslav Putar Prize The four finalists of the Radoslav Putar Prize, presented every year to the most promising young Croatian artist, get to show why they were placed on the short list. It’s certainly a splendid introduction to what Croatian artists are doing these days, with work from multimedia and performance artist Gildo Bavčević, compellingly enigmatic photographs from Davor Konjikušić, paintings by Ana Kuzmanić, and photo/video works from Kristina Marić.QD‑2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

27.03 - 22.07 » Rijeka – Sušak 1948 Borderline This exhibition rich in evocative photographs traces the history of the border that once ran through the city, dividing the centre (which was in Italy) from the suburb of Sušak (which was in Yugoslavia) to the east. Although Rijeka was liberated in May 1945, its reunification with Sušak facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Raphael Wressnig, Photo by Mirjam Koch, Liburnia Jazz Festival Archives

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What’s On 20.06 - 31.12 » 145th Anniversary of the Arrival of the Railway in Opatija and the 110th Aniversary of the Installation of the Tramway in Opatija Behind a clumsy title lurks an absolutely fascinating exhibition, one that is crucial to understanding the history of Opatija as a whole. Built by the Austrian Southern Railway company in 1873, the rail line to Rijeka (which ran through Matulji just up the hill from Opatija) opened up the whole region to tourism, and led to the development of the Opatija we know today. The tram link, opened in 1908, marked the culmination of Opatija’s pre-World War I tourist boom, marking it out as one of the most modern, chic spots on the Mediterranean at that time.QVilla Angiolina - Museum of Croatian Tourism, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

12.07 - 26.08 » Viewing Instructions: Performative Practice in Photography and Video With works in photography and video from the MMSU’s permanent collection, this is a good introduction to the experimental, conceptual, sometimes infuriating and frequently wacky world of the Croatian visual arts. QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

01.07 » Pul Kaštela Art enthusiasts can head towards the marauding Trsat Fortress so to see a promenade of art works from numerous domestic and foreign artists. The displayed art stretches from the Petar Zrinski Street all the way to the fort - thus bringing art closer to the people and the accompanying entertainment program will make the experience all the better! Qwww.visitrijeka.hr.

21.07 - 23.09 » Biennale of Industrial Art: On the Backs of Fallen Giants The second Biennial of Industrial Art, organized in cooperation with Labin Art Express and the Istrian Archeological Museum in Pula, will hold its central exhibition in Rijeka’s MMSU and a host of other events in various locations around Istria. This edition is curated by the Zagreb-based collective WHW, who have a reputation for choosing the most relevant, thought-provoking and provocative artists. Post-industrial regeneration, ecology, tourism and migration look set to feature among the Biennale’s headscratching themes. QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

02.07 - 30.07 » Nives Kavurić -Kurtović Zagreb-based painter and graphic designer Nives KavurićKurtović (1938-2016) is remembered with a selection of works from the last ten years of her life.QThe Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 22 25, www.hrmt.hr.

06.08 - 17.09 » Ivan Kujundžić: Sculptures of a Molecule A sculptural ensemble in stone and metal exploring the molecule as a metaphorical idea and a building block of life. QThe Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 22 25, www.hrmt.hr.

Photo by Marinko Babić, That Nice Little Worm-like Monster From the SeabedArchives

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rijeka.inyourpocket.com

What’s What’s On On 17.08 - 24.08 » Friends of the Sea: Like In the Old Days In its 9th edition, this transit exhibition and project takes place on the shores of the Adriatic and will have visited 13 Croatian destinations by September. It dwells into the world of photography and promotes the value of life on the Adriatic coast. Each year the event is viewed by over one million visitors and the 2018 exhibition will include 60 black and white records of the present-day Croatian Adriatic made in large format, yet visually replicating the golden age of fine art photography and geometric pure visuals of old times. Beautiful, classy and emotional – this is nostalgia at its finest. Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

4000 Candles, Summer On Gradina Archives

25.08 - 26.08 » Mandrach The mandrać (pronounced ‘mandrach’) is the little horseshoe-shaped harbour in Volosko just outside Opatija.

Every year during the last weekend of August the area is transformed into an outdoor gallery, where artists local and foreign are allowed to display their works. There’s a Mini-Mandrach for kids aged 5-15, and competition categories (including painting and photography prizes for both amateur and professional artists) for everybody else.

QVolosko, www.visitopatija.net.

Festivals 19.07, 16.08 » Unplugged Festival It might not be MTV but this festival which is held annually across major tourist destinations in and around Ičići’s hospitality venues brings artists across all genres of music to the forefront as they present their musical talents. QIčići, www.icici-tourism.com.

24.08 - 25.08 » Dark Circle Fest The abandoned factory halls of the Hartera complex provide a suitably gritty backdrop to this festival of dark metal, with a total of 28 bands performing on two stages over two days. Headlining are Swedish deathmetal veterans The Crown and demonic Austrian riffmerchants Belphegor. QQ-2, Hartera Factory, www. darkometalfest.com.

09.09 » Porto Etno A festival in the revitalized Benčić factory complex that combines local and global ethno music with the culinary traditions of national minorities in Rijeka and the surrounding region. Get ready for some good vibes and a great family atmosphere.Q A-1, Benčić Complex, www. rijeka2020.eu.

Rock & Pop Concerts 17.07 » Zucchero Veteran Italian warbler Zucchero has been treading the boards for over three decades and has chalked up numerous Europe-wide hits, performing with the likes of Joe Cocker, Eric Clapton and Sting in the process. Tickets facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Liburnia Jazz Festival Archives

from www.mojekarte.hr, Festival Opatija (Zert bb, Opatija), Dallas Music Shop (C-2, ul. Splitska 2a) or Croatia Records shop (E-2, Užarska 3). QOpatija Summer Stage, www. festivalopatija.hr.

01.08 » Chalsea Wolfe American underground singer-songwriter mixes folkinspired motifs with pulsating guitars and industrial noise to produce a hypnotic sound-meld that sounds like Tory Amos trapped in a room with My Bloody Valentine and Nine Inch Nails. Tracks from Wolfe’s excellent recent album Hiss Spun will doubtless get a good run out.QU‑1, Trsatski kaštel, Partizanski put 9a, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14, www.rijeka2020.eu.

13.08 » Calexico The Arizona based veterans of indie-Mex-Americana play on open-air gig on Rijeka’s Delta in support of their characteristically wistful and eclectic 2018 album The Thread That Keeps Us. Calexico are big favourites in Croatia, having played Zagreb several times to ecstatic, sell-out crowds; so expect a rousing show. QF-2, Delta, www. rijeka2020.eu.

17.08 » Massimo One of Croatia's highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia's David Bowie with startling resemblences in voice.QOpatija Summer Stage, (120 - 150kn), www.festivalopatija.hr.

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What’s On Jazz & Blues 06.07 - 08.07 » The 18th Liburnia Jazz Festival Three nights of top quality jazz in the open air. The festival begins with trumpeters Mike Stern and Randy Brecker and closes with international smooth-jazz sensation Threestyle. Sandwiched inbetween will be Jed Becker’s Blues Band, with local legend Elvis J Stanić handling the vocal duties. Q(50-120kn), www.liburniajazz.hr.

24.07 - 29.07 » Opatija Riviera Blues Festival A week of concerts in venues all along the Opatija Riviera with bles bands from Croatia an neighbouring countries.

The opening concert at Opatija’s summer theatre features the Italian-British-Croatian Ken Bailey Group. There will be an outdoor concert in Lovran’s Old Town on the 26th, followed by three more evenings of blues music in Mošćenička Draga and Mošćenice.Qwww.festivalopatija.hr.

15.11 - 17.11 » The 27th Jazz Time Rijeka Festival An amazing feat for organisers who have brought jazz vibes to Rijeka 27 years ago! Individuals passionate about jazz have made their dream come true and visitors to the event can expect to see some of the finest jazz soloists and groups in the region strutting their tunes.Qwww. jazztimerijeka.com.

Ivan Kujundžić: Sculptures of a Molecule, Croatian Tourism Museum Archives

RetrOpatija, Opatija Tourist Board Archives

Liburnia Jazz Festival Archives

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Musical 28.06 » Mamma Mia! 54 million people have seen the show; productions include the West End and Broadway as well as international productions as is the one from Croatia. The musical includes ABBA’s mega classics ‘Super Trouper’, ‘Lay All Your Love on Me’, ‘Dancing Queen’, ‘Knowing Me, Knowing You, ‘Take a Chance on Me’, ‘Thank You for the Music’, ‘Money, Money, Money’, ‘The Winner Takes It All’, ‘Voulez Vous’, and the title track. Two and a half hours of pop and dance! QOpatija Summer Stage, www. festivalopatija.hr.

Special Events 15.06 - 08.09 » Summer in the Capital In case you didn't know already, Rijeka is the ‘European Capital City of Culture 2020’ and in saying that has an abundant amount of events in place. Squares, parks, and cultural institutions become a temporary stage for artists, musicians, acts, DJs exhibitions and bands. ‘Cycle Furious’ brings engaged Croatian and international musicians together, the children’s event titled ‘Tobogan’ has over 40 different activities, then the appearance of the worldfamous American band ‘Calexico’ and the new edition of Porto Etno music and gastronomy festival adds to the flavour. For further info, keep an eye out for ‘Ljeto u prijestolnici’.Qwww.rijeka2020.eu. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

What’s What’s On On 23.06 - 22.07 » The Margaret’s Summer A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616. QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr.

28.06 » Adriatica Folk Fest Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place.

Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments will perform. QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

Gustav Klimt, Croatian Tourism Museum Archives

29.06 - 30.06 » (Sr)etno Selce - Ethno Festival The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots and are proud to present their cultural heritage through authentic products and dishes, national dances and old costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the energy, the past!Qwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

29.06 - 31.08 » Kastav Cultural Summer From its beginnings in the 90's when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other fields and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. Culture at its finest! QKastav, www.kkl.hr.

Liburnia Jazz Festival Archives

30.06 » RetrOpatija Welcome to a unique blend of 1940s, 50s and 60s music, fashion, film, art, dance and design with pin ups, jive, lindy hop, a vintage market, old-timers, vespas, and a whole lot more. Step back in time to a golden era with plenty of ‘shake, rattle and roll’.

QVarious locations across Opatija, www.festivalopatija.hr.

07.07 - 02.09 » Summer on Gradina Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year's program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing conceptual program placed around different parts of the fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and presentations. This is the 13th edition and the action kicks off on July 7th with the event of lighting 4000 candles and lasts until September 2nd. Just being up on Trsat is a breath taking experience!Qwww.trsatskagradina.com.

15.07 - 18.08 » Osor Musical Evenings Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for the Osor Musical Evenings.Qwww.osorfestival.eu. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The First in the World – Rijeka Torpedo Exhibition

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What’s On 20.07 - 21.07 » CrikvArt Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face! QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

27.07 » Kostrena Night Kostrena sparkles under the sky in July as it becomes the place of entertainment, culture and local culinary delights.

In this most important summer event local artists exhibit and sell their artworks and souvenirs whilst restaurants present their traditional rich dishes. QKostrena, www. tzo-kostrena.hr.

08.08 - 10.08 » The 494th Lovrečeva – Krk Fair Can you believe that this fair began way back in 1524 in celebration of the Feast of Saint Lawrence, patron to the island of Krk. Once a Roman province, the Kamplin Square will serve as the main stage as it unfolds age old traditions; hear and see tales of the Frankopan noble family and pirate voyages, Roman legionnaire re-enactments, Glagolitic chants, medieval dances, jousting and more.

QKrk, www.tz-krk.hr.

11.08 » Naši tanci i stari užanci The Zora folklore ensemble from Opatija celebrates its 70th anniversary with a concert featuring songs and dances from all over Croatia – with particular emphasis on the traditions of the Kvarner region.Q. 25.08 21:00 » Perpetuum Jazzile This Slovenian vocal orchestra combines powerful rhythms, rich harmonies and an unparalleled creativity to their show.

With no instruments on stage, their voices combine to pro-

Ballet & Dance 23.07, 06.08 » Dancing Stars Held over two respective evenings in July and August, the summer temperatures will soar even higher when Latin dances suddenly add to the good time atmosphere and vibe surrounding Ičići.Q Ičići, www.icici-tourism.com. duce the music and tunes to original and hit songs. Their repertoire is a special mixture of pop, jazz, gospel, blues, Brazilian bossa nova, disco and funk. The grace of the human voice! QOpatija Summer Stage, www.festivalopatija.hr.

02.09 » The 12th Učka's Fair L​ ooking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastronomy and ethnological heritage. See the local meals, products, crafts, music, and costumes that have survived over time and don’t forget your camera with exceptional panoramic views from up top.Qwww.pp-ucka.hr.

13.10 - 10.11 » Impulse Festival Welcome to the 5th edition of the city’s club boutique style festival which promotes urban culture. It culminates exhibitions, dance performances, film premieres, workshops, vinyl stands, parties, and of course live acts. This year’s headliner is Irish post-rockers ‘God is an Astronaut’ with more acts to be announced soon.Q150 - 200kn, www.facebook.com/ImpulsefestivalRi.

Film 13.06 - 19.09 » SEEING! A PHOTON’S JOURNEY ACROSS SPACE, TIME AND MIND As well as the regular programme of screenings in Croatian, the planetarium of the Rijeka Astronomy Centre will be showing this visually spectacular tale of elementary electromagnetic particles, complete with English-language commentary. Shows take place every Wednesday at 20:00. QThe Rijeka Astronomical Center, Sveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www.rijekasport.hr.

20.08 - 24.08 » The 16th Liburnia Film Festival One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Opatija last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike! All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.Qwww.liburniafilmfestival.com.

Friends of the Sea: Like In the Old Days Exhibition, Photo by Mario Romulić i Dražen Stojčić

16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

05.09 - 09.09 » History Film Festival Each day we discover something unknown from the past, from unravelling hidden truths, conspiracies, rijeka.inyourpocket.com

What’s What’s On On through to moments in war and so on. This festival is here to appraise new historical documentary films produced both independently and via official TV companies.

Thematic conferences, seminars, film author workshops and more can be experienced as it’s the perfect gathering for film buffs and those in the industry. Qwww. historyfilmfestival.com.

17.10 - 21.10 » Student International Film Festival (STIFF) STIFF is Croatia’s first International Film Festival dedicated entirely to student films with the purpose of strengthening the local film industry, giving an insight into the work of other filmmakers and establishing international projects in the field of media production. The best student film productions from all around the world will be presented.

Qwww.stiff.uniri.hr.

Sport 10.08 - 12.08 » Ičići Masters Season 5 is about to get underway with Ičići beach transformed into a volleyball zone where guests and visitors can enjoy top-quality beach volleyball. Due to the lasting tradition of the Ičići Open, this international beach volley tournament has now been upgraded to the Master’s level due to its high quality and achievement. Set, dig and spike!Qwww.icici-tourism.com.

01.09 » Melkior - Paragvaj Regatta This isn’t your modern style regatta with fibreglass boats, this regatta comprises of traditional sailing boats that can still prove to be handy at sea. It’s vintage craftwork as its best with a true respect to preserving old style shipbuilding heritage. The regatta includes old traditional pieces such as the batana, guc, pasara, gajeta, leut and many others. Hoist the sails!Qwww.icici-tourism.com.

20.09 - 30.09 » Thousand Islands Race Sailing addicts mustn’t miss the chance to sail along the entire Adriatic this summer. In an official race, the regatta passes more than a thousand islands over two stages. The race starts in Rijeka and finishes in Porto Montenegro in Stage 1, and then the fleet navigates back to Rijeka along the same course to complete Stage 2. Technical challenges, winds, waves, and many other variables will test even the very best sailors.Qwww.scor.hr.

29.09 10:00 » King of Učka Are you an avid cyclist? Are you up for a challenge? Then get ready to ‘pedal to the metal’ in this recreational road bike race which leads from Ičići (at sea level) and ends up to the highest peak of the Učka Mountain named Vojak (1396m). The ride is a true battle but the reward once you get to the top and its views will be worth every sweat you pour. So come and join the fun and accept the challenge! More info can be found at www.kingofucka.com.

Qwww.kingofucka.com. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

1000 Islands Race Archives

Summer 2018

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam.

Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo.

So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages.

Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.

The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

Croatian business conversations This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoist wu wei principle (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literally means ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient.

Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to, indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet. A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to it any time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this 18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

Croatian leisure talk Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit’ meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’.

Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual. But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to www.travelhonestly.com/ croatian-cafe-culture.

And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing.

If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu. Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh.

Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/ slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success.

When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound far-fetched, but pomalo is the Croatian timetravel machine.

Croatian weather talk Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified.

Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain.

If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

Most important ‘empty’ talk

We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions.

But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners. Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk. So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

By Andrea Pisac Summer 2018

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Restaurants

Jist Archives

Placa 51 When you have a dream, and that dream comes true: that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51 with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines, and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54. Open 09:00 - 22:30, Closed Sun, June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:30. (40 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­J­6­W

International

Placa 51 Archives

Croatian Konoba Municipium Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Konoba Nebuloza Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, www.konobanebuloza. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. (75 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­J­W Nono Frane Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.hr. Open 11:00 24:00. (50 - 90kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W 20 Rijeka In Your Pocket

JIST Lorem Ipsum is simply dummy text of the printing and typesetting industry. Lorem Ipsum has been the industry’s standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book. It has survived not only five centuries, but also the leap into electronic typesetting, remaining essentially unchanged. It was popularised in the 1960s with the release of Letraset sheets containing Lorem Ipsum passages, and more recently with desktop publishing software like Aldus PageMaker including versions of Lorem Ipsum.QŠiroli 27, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 97, www.jist.hr. Open 13:00 23:00, Closed Mon. (120-360kn). A­P­B­S­L­W Kamov Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.

QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). A­P­G­T­L­W Sorriso Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/(+385) 091 271 10 66, www.restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (40 - 80kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W Spagho Just a stone throw from the Korza boardwalk, Spagho is the Italian Stallion of restaurants in Rijeka with a mega menu on offer. Sure, the chef’s daily specials are up, but the variety here goes beyond pizza, risotto and pasta, with steaks, soups, salads and desserts aplenty. The interior is a lovely fusion of wood and stone, and they also have an rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants outdoor terrace. Open 10am for brunch through till late in the evening.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­ V­J­W

traditional Blato In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn). A­P­G­X­T­W Feral Croatian classics – it’s a simple place with a small menu – which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, www.konoba-feral.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­W Girica Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, www.konoba-girica.incroatia. info/. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn).

A­P ­G ­T ­L ­W Ive This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65, www.konoba-ive.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A­G­X­T­B­L­6­W Konoba Volta A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu – no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 56 42 97. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon, Sun. (35 - 105kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W Tarsa The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Closed Mon. (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­ T­U­B­S­L­6­W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Trsatica A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things.

Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, www. restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (45 200kn). P­X ­T ­B ­6 ­W

Pizza Maslina na Zelenom trgu A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg also has his daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, wasabi tuna, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr/. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. (26 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­S­J­W Pampas A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. Open 08:00 23:00. (27 - 85kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­S­V­W Pizzeria Bracera A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (32 - 95kn). A­P ­G ­X ­T ­B­ 6­W

Quick Eats Bar Bar Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients.

There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more.

Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs! A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel. (+385-) 099 331 72 08/(+385-) 097 712 99 49, www. bar-bar.eu/. Mon, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Tue 10:00 - 02:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Closed Sun. (8 30kn). A­P­B­S­J­W­K ­i Summer 2018

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Restaurants Buffet Cocco Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. (30 - 110kn). A­G­X­T­B­W Mornar Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.

Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 5b, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (22 65kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­J­6­W ­i RICA Gluten Free This health-oriented café-bakery right opposite the National Theatre serves some awesomely good fare; no wonder the outdoor terrace is one of Rijeka’s most popular people-watching spots. Snack on savoury burek or sandwiches, or opt for the hard-to-resist cakes, syrupy baklava and creamy slices of kremšnita. You can also buy loaves of bread and packets of biscuits from the bakery counter.

QVerdijeva 3b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 93, www.rica.hr/.

Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A­P­B­J­W

Vegetarian Klub Makrovega Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods,

and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45.

Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 30kn). N­P­ G­T­S­6­W Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say.

The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver.QE‑2, Užarska 14 - u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 624 05 24, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). N­G­X­T­B­ V­J­6­W ­i Tifan Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found ‘till 4pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 60kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W ­i

Chinese Peking You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, www.pekingrestaurant. fullbusiness.com/. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 110kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­W

Mexican

Placa 51 Archives

22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Mexican Cantina Bodega What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case – especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­L­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Out of town Ičići Commodore A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska 7a, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49/(+385-) 098 982 26 23. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (50 - 360kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Dopolavoro If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style – it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, July 15 - September 30 Open 12:00 - 22:00. (50 - 140kn). A­G­X­T­B­S­L­W

Kastav Mala riba This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

Kostrena Kostrenka Hidden away in Kostrena just east of Rijeka, this is a real find for those prepared to rove far and wide in search of good local food. The emphasis is on seafood (with trad inexpensive dishes like whitebait rubbing shoulders with the finest white fish), although there are plenty of meaty alternatives, including regional specialities like žgvacet (lamb stew) from the island of Krk. And there’s a full range of pizzas to keep all family members happy. Reserve time for the lemon-meringue pie.QRožići 3, Kostrena, tel. (+385-51) 28 31 79, www.kostrenka.com/. Open 09:00 23:00, Closed Mon. (45-110kn). A­P­B­S­W

Krk Bracera This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” – sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, www.konoba-bracera.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (45 - 300kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W Summer 2018

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Restaurants on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.

QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). A­P­ X­T­B­J­6­W

Lovran Gospoja Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash – a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, www.gospoja. hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). A­G­X­T­B­ S­L­W Konoba Nada If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (135 - 175kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­W Konoba Ribice As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat.QUlica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01, www.konoba-ribice.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00.

(30 - 70kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­6­W Rivica Restaurant Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Draga di Lovrana Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care.

Try home-made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00. (120 - 240kn). A­P­ G­X ­T ­B ­L ­W Lovranska vrata With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town, directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities.QTrg Sv Jurja 94, Lovran, tel. (+38551) 29 10 50. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­ G­X ­T ­B ­W NaJade Classic good food – fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

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Mošćenička Draga Johnson This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice.

QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W Konoba Zijavica Right beside the seafront and with a terrace out on the beach, this is another place that brings out the best in Kvarner cuisine – traditional food served with contemporary finesse, with priority given to what’s fresh and seasonal. It’s a great place to try local fish, scampi, seashells and homemade fuži pasta, and there’s usually something featuring traditional boškarin beef on the menu. QŠetalište 25, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 72 43, www. konoba-zijavica.com/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn).

A­P­B­S­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Matulji Stancija Kovačići Idyllically positioned below Mt. Učka and above Opatija. With a flair for tradition, chef Vinko Frlan favours local produce above all with meat, fish, cheese, Istrian prosciutto, truffles, olive oil and herbs grown in the restaurant garden. Not to mention the Boškarin beef, lamb baked under the iron bell, dishes with asparagus, nettle, wild garlic, homemade pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, homemade bread and more. The fusion of contemporary meets tradition is scene not only in the menu but in the stunning architecture of the restaurant which also houses a serene outdoor terrace. Stancija Kovačići is perfect for a weekend getaway as they have five rooms for accommodation with the Učka Nature Park nearby, mesmerising Opatija down below, and lots of hiking trails in the surrounding area. This hidden gem is well worth a visit when exploring the Kvarner region!QRukavac 51, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 21 06, www.stancijakovacici.hr. Open 12.00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.

Opatija Ariston The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it.QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, www.villa-ariston. hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). A­P ­G ­X ­T­ B­L ­W Bistro Yacht Club A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour – enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try. Friendly and comfortable.QZert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, www.yacht-club-opatija.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ 6­W Cantinetta Sv. Jakov A unique restaurant beneath the grand arcades and perhaps one of the Opatija’s best kept secrets , Cantinetta Sv. Jakov may be best described as a blend of an italian trattoria and a wine bar. The menu is focused on good and simple Mediterranean cuisine, such as grilled fresh fish, grilled steak, fish soup and homemade pasta with a commitment using local and sustainable foods.QPava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (140 - 200kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­L­W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Gastro World This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 00, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00 - 10:00, 18:30 - 21:00. (90 - 1800kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­J­W Istranka A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria – a region with a very distinct style.

A shady terrace and musical accompaniment – worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+38551) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35. Open 11:00 - 23:00.​​​​​​​ (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

Volosko Konoba Tramerka Just up the steps from Volosko’s twee harbour, Tramerka is a very different kettle of fish from the chic seafront restaurants, with its secret grotto-like interior and benches strewn outside in the alley. Seafood rules the menu, and the owner or waiter will often advise you on what you should order - based on what came fresh out of the sea that day. A lot of imagination goes into the starters and desserts, so come prepared for a three-courser.QDr. A. Mohorovičića 15, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 17 07, www.konoba-tramerka.com/en/ home/. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon. (50 - 200kn).

A­P ­B ­W Konoba Valle Losca A traditional inn that gets the thumbs up from the local gourmet crowd, Valle Losca is one of those places that has built up a cult reputation by offering seasonal ingredients and a shrewd selection of rustic recipes – casseroles, baked meats and fish, and lots of home-made pasta. The ambience is as cosy as the food, with a cute bare stone interior and a small summer terrace out on this characteristic Volosko street.

Not many tables though so try and reserve.QUl. Andrije Štangera 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 095 580 37 57. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, Sun. (50 - 130kn). A­P­B Plavi podrum A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.

QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S ­W Summer 2018

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Local Flavour

Frankopan cake, Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

Food Markets Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers. The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age. In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce. For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce. Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces.

We recommend you try this home-made food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood.

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs. In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads.

But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen. Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flarijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour vour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs. Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden… Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locallygrown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…

Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you’re in town in the winter. The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It’s the real Rijeka.

Floating market Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

Local Dishes Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs.

Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.

Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime. This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island.

A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68). Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Handmade pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic. On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuriesold recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.

Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out. In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic.

Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it.

On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu. Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they Summer 2018

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Local Flavour should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight. Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels.

Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites.

Foodies guide 19.05 - 20.10 » Demetra’s Green Corner Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Demetra’s Green Corner (Demetrin zeleni kutak) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. The market is open once per month (3rd Saturday of the month) so please check its Facebook page regularly. There you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

QUlica Milana Butkovića 2, Open 09:00 -14:00.

30.06 - 01.07 » Žlahtina Festival - open cellers / Razgon Two days, two themes, and one aim – to gather and celebrate! Day one is the Open Wine Cellars Day with Vrbnik vintners presenting the žlahtina wine sort, a white dry wine made from the indigenous variety žlahtina bijela, a wine unique to the island. Day two is entitled Razgon, which is the name given to the last day of the milking of sheep and their release to free grazing. One can step back in time with featured old crafts, folklore dancing and local authentic products.QVrbnik, www.vrbnik.hr.

08.07 - 15.07 » Šurlice Days Feeling peckish! For one entire week restaurants of the Vrbnik are offering special dishes made with šurlice pasta and prepared in various ways. On the two Sunday evenings, a small fair of local products as well as a musical programme will accompany the event.QVrbnik, www.vrbnik.hr.

05.08 » Dagnjada Relaxing by the sea, the intoxicating smell of mussels and coastal songs in the background – that is the short28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

est description that explains Dagnjada. Happy Race Teams will cook fresh mussels, carefully choosing their spices so that the taste of the Mediterranean is more intense. Games, entertainment, singing and dance will last until the early morning hours. QJadranovo, www. rivieracrikvenica.com.

16.08 » Folk festival Rokova On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association. Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long will be prepped!QLiganj, www.tzlovran.hr.

24.08 - 25.08 » Wine Days of the island of Krk -Vrbnik 2018 Famous for its excellent wines, it is not surprising that numerous wine events will be celebrated on Krk this summer.

One such event is Wine Days that will encompass some major wine tasting as well as a sales exhibition of wines and local products. Lectures on wine will also be held for the hearty, and all this is topped off by a homely cultural programme. QVrbnik, www.vrbnik.hr.

25.08 - 01.09 » Fishermen’s Week Everything is fishy here, and on a positive note! Started in 1966, a plethora of exhibitions, workshops, concerts, folk dances, sporting competitions and culinary festivities where locals prepare traditional fish dishes never cease to amaze. QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

31.08 - 02.09 » Fig Days If you’re on Krk around the beginning of September, this festival gives you the chance to sample and buy all kinds of food and drink based on the sweet, sweet fig in its fresh and dried forms.QKrk, www.tz-krk.hr.

05.10 » Lignjada (Day of Squid) Smother yourselves with squid cooked, fried and grilled in every shape and form under the sun. Locals have their century old methods and they don’t change a winning formula. Held in Jadranovo, turn local for a day and you can participate in squid fishing, cooking, drinking wining and dancing to Mediterranean melodies.QJadranovo, www. rivieracrikvenica.com.

12.10 - 14.10 » Marunada Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October celebration since they are featured in every meal and event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets made with maruni (turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts, rumpsteak in chestnut sauce, chestnut ice-cream, frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). QLiganj, Dobreć and Lovran, www.tz-lovran.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

PARK POSTOJNSKA JAMA Wonderworld does exist

A SLOVENIJA

LJUBLJANA POSTOJNA

Postojnska jama Jamska c. 30, Postojna www.postojnska-jama.eu

Coffee & Cakes

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Cakes Cacao A stand-out patisserie celebrated for the sheer range and quality of the things on offer, Cacao is the kind of place that demands repeat visits if you are to fully appreciate what they are capable of. Otherwise it’s a pretty tall order to make a choice between the delicate mille-feuilles, the outstanding macaroons, the delicious cheesecakes and the fantastic ice cream. With biscuits and hand-made chocolates on sale too, you’re unlikely to leave emptyhanded. QRiva 14, tel. (+385-) 091 202 06 30, www. cacao.hr/. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

P­G­B­S­J­W Gelateria Corso Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of peoplewatching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite.

QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51) 30 19 45/(+385-) 098 992 59 87. Open 07:00 - 02:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Piko PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread, pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks. A pleasant ambience and always fresh products will make your day in Rijeka more enjoyable.QKorzo 38b, tel. (+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

Coffee Book Caffe Dnevni boravak For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, Ciottina 12a. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat 09:00 - 00:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:00. N­P­X­T­E­J­6­W 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Cukarikafe The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo…QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 888 59 49. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W Ferrari It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia.QD‑2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. Open 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. N­P­X­B­J Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the city library which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.

QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:00 23:00. N­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Fiorello Pub A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central.

QD‑2, Korzo 2d, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. N­P­ X­T­B­J­W Iskra Located in the heart of Rijeka since 1975, this bar provides a blend of traditional and modern in its ambient and variety of drinks. You’ll enjoy their wide selection of Croatian rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes wines and delicious prosciutto. If you’re visiting during Rijeka’s famous Carnival, this is where you should be.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Open 06:00 22:00, Sat 06:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:30 - 13:00. N­P­G­ X­T­B­6­W Kosi toranj Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/funky house breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE‑2, Put vele crikve 1. Open 07:00 - 24:00. N­P­X­T­B­J­W Latino A nice arty little café with good cakes.QE‑2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. N­P­X­T­B­6­W Piramida A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37 11 81. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. N­P­X­T­J­6­W

Striga At the same city square as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1, Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W Vintage bar You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress – which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B

Opatija Coffee

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Café Wagner Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana – a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather.QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Design hotel Astoria One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails.

QUlica maršala Tita 174, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, www. hotel-astoria.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. A­P­G­X­T­ B­L­W

Striga Cafe Archives

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Palme Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+38551) 70 63 18, www.hotel-bristol.hr. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

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Nightlife Bars Galaxie bar Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open 07:00 - 24:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W GRAD kavana&bar Situated on the waterfront just short of the ferry terminal, Grad is one of those all-purpose café-bars that are a good place to grab a bite to eat or drink coffee during the daytime, or plough your way through the drinks menu at night. Six daily specials are chalked up on a board every lunchtime, all displaying a deft combination of local seasonal ingredients and contemporary European savvy.

Pršut-and-cheese platters are available all day; and there’s a first-class selection of cakes courtesy of the KaoKakao patisserie in Volosko. Boutique gins and a good wine list might just keep you here until closing time. QRiva Boduli 7B, tel. (+385-) 091 272 61 63. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. A­P­X­B­J Hemingway bar Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktailsipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 32 44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W Karolina Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.

During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­6­W Mirage The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively.

A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are 32 Rijeka In Your Pocket

occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, Istarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99. Open 07:00 - 02:00.

N­P­X­T­B­6­W Nad urom Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee. However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, www.nadurom.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Pogon Trsat On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays.QR‑2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports Centre, tel. (+385-) 099 607 20 85. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. P­G­X­B­L Rakhia bar This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 091 937 83 45. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Tue, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W Sabrage Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77, www.sabragebar.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­W Teta Roža Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 099 480 60 30. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­T­B­6­W The Beertija Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning!

It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. A­P­X­T­B­E­6­W

Clubs Boa This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00, Sun 06:00 - 00:00. N­P­ X­B­E­J­W Tunel Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of alternative culture - laid back jazz, blues, funk, soul, rock and electronic music, you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here.

The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions and concerts.”QE‑1, Školjić 12. Open Mon, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 03:00. Closed Sun. A­N­P­X­T­B­6

Pubs Celtic Caffe Bard A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. N­P­X­ T­B­J­6­W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Phanas Pub A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-) 091 926 48 01. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. A­P ­X ­T ­E ­J ­W River pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+38551) 32 46 73. Open 06:00 - 01:00, Thu 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. N­P­X­ T­B­J­W

Wine bars kod Zajca wine&coffee bar Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. N­P­X­ T­B­E­J­W Summer 2018

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Sightseeing Essential Rijeka St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:00 - 18:00, Sat 06:00 - 12:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD‑2, Korzo.

Photo by @vladfran.croatia

34 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Corso (Korzo) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing The Croatian National Theatre Ivan the noble Zajc (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE‑3, Verdijeva bb, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14/(+385-51) 35 59 07, www.hnkzajc.hr. Box office open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Open two hours before the show in Rijeka, and one hour before in Sušak. From July 26 (Rijeka Summer Nights) Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Trsat Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city.

You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses.

It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space.

The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1.

Churches The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) The Rijeka Astronomical Center - Rijeka Sport Archives The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hardearned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.

It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee – members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

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Sightseeing The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00.QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. Open 07:30 - 12:30.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The

church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint.

There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka Marulića bb.

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00.

Photo by Vladimir Šoić, www.unsplash.com

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Sightseeing Fountains The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.

Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg.

The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.

The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova.

Historical areas Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.)

Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the highrise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk – if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.QE‑1, Kalvarija.

Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.)

Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks). Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interestinglooking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ.

The Old City (Stari grad) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

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Sightseeing The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management.

An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA‑1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV.

Industrial Rijeka The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards – see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

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The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s daughter.

QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Landmarks Archaeological Park The newly renovated Archaeological Park has opened in 2014 in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klović.

Hurricane!

Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005.

Islamic Center Rijeka The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high.

Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, www. medzlis-rijeka.org.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva.

Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume.

War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.

During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and con-

Natural History Museum Archives

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Sightseeing galleries Bruketa 2 The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www. mala-galerija.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Kortil An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+385-51) 37 70 51. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Mali salon A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD‑2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

Depending on the exhibition. Admission free.

Principij Gallery QE‑2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Trsatski kaštel Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina.

QU‑1, Partizanski put 9a, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14.

Open June - September 30 09:00 - 20:00. October - May 31 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10/5kn. tainers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s.

Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline.

However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD‑3.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance – many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

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Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned – you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” – “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.QF‑1/2, E‑2.

Sušak - Pećine The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina.

The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of muchloved children’s books. In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S‑3/4.

The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu.QE‑2, Užarska. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.

Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was established. A planetarium hall was installed into an already existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy.

During summer, every Wednesday at 20:30 there is a special program for foreign tourists in English language and stargazing with the telescope in observatory every Saturday at 22:00. For detailed opening times and schedule of planetarium shows and observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00 or check schedule here.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr.

Admission 20/10 kn.

The Rijeka Tunnel Military turmoil leading up to World War II saw the construction of fortifications, bunkers and tunnels in Rijeka.

Now, the first military tunnel has opened for visitors with the entrance next to the Cathedral of St. Vitus and it stretches below the Old Town to the Dolac Primary School.

The 330-m long tunnel still has some original markings and was even used in the Homeland War as a shelter.

QD‑1. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića.

Rijeka Astronimical Centre Archives

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The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg.

Museums City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www. muzej-rijeka.hr. 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 15/10kn.

Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum (Peek&Poke - Muzej djetinjstva) Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 30kn.

Peek&Poke - Computer Museum Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 30kn.

State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through Summer 2018

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Sightseeing time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD‑1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, www.riarhiv.hr. During exhibitions open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorskogoranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections.

For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 09:00 16:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15kn.

The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti/MMSU) Rijeka’s MMSU has taken on a whole new lease of life since moving into new premises in the Benčić complex, a group of former industrial buildings near the railway station. The complex is currently being transformed into a new artand-culture cluster and the MMSU is the first major institu-

tion to move in, occupying former factory halls that retain their elegant iron pillars and cool grey floors. The space is ideally suited to the museum’s busy programme of exhibitions, which will involve rotating selections of the MMSU’s huge permanent collection as well as individual and group shows by leading international artists. Whether you like the displays or not, it’s the perfect place to contemplate Rijeka’s ongoing transformation into a post-industrial city of art and leisure. QA‑1, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Admission depending on the exhibition.

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 10/5kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view – it’s well worth it. QC‑2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, www.svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 14:00 with prior arrangement. Admission 20 kn.

Palaces The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and 42 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing The Modello Building (Palača Modello) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca.

the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1.

The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija – yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.

While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.

The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary – look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC‑2, Riva.

The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too – raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

The Palazzo (Palača komuna) This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

Parks The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.QV‑2, Trsat.

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Sightseeing market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca.

The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.

Religious collections

The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.

The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city 44 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-) 091 918 78 52. Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.

The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings (Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com.hr/. Open 06:30 - 20:00. Admission free.

The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia – no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsatsvetiste.com. Open 08:00 - 11:30, 14:00 - 17:00. Admission free. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner Islands Cres The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an

absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

Cres Tourist Board QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, www.tzg-cres. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Krk

Photo by Dražen Mimica

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So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings. Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here.

It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world.

The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything. Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

Krk Tourist Information Center QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, www.tz-krk.hr. June, September Open 08:00 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Lošinj You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.

Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Apoxyomenos The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos.

The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use of mirrors.

QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 115/40 kn. J Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, www. visitlosinj.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

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Kvarner

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Rab Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth.

Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone. Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green roll48 Rijeka In Your Pocket

ing hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.

Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.

The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

Rab Tourist Board QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, www. rab-visit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner Opatija Riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea. Over the years Opatija has been la-

the memorial centre lipa remembers In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ opened its doors to the public for the very first time.

Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children. The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most residential and commercial buildings. By the end of World War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers with its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never forgetting the past. The Centre also signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehistory to the present day.QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, www.lipapamti. ppmhp.hr/. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

belled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-theart beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-round healthand-lifestyle resorts in Europe. The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events. The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Ičići Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croatia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a wonder for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes to help wind down.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas – many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

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Kvarner Crikvenica Tourist Information Center QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, www. rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Novi Vinodolski This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.

Photo by Renata Dossi

Opatija Opatija Tourist Information Center QMaršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, www.visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Primorje Crikvenica Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.

Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast.

Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expensive – as Opatija.

The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry). Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 35/20kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

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You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information Center QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, www. tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Photo by Dražen Mimica

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Weekend Getaway

npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr

The Northern Velebit National Park Huge, seemingly bare masses of rock full of crevices, impenetrable forests, glades large and small, grassy karst valleys, chasms, sinkholes, ice caves, ponds and limestone pavements... The Northern Velebit is a real mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats which are home to many plant, animal and fungus species, a natural wealth which has only just begun to be discovered. It is exactly this diversity of karstic forms, plant and animal life and natural landscapes which was the reason why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for anyone who prefers an active holiday and spending time in pristine nature with the sense of a primordial wilderness. Biking, hiking, photography… the choice is yours. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Normally it is said that people conquer mountains, but the Velebit is a mountain range that conquers the hearts of its visitors.

Zavižan and Alan are areas undergoing continuous change with open grassy spaces, thick green forests and huge limestone boulders, all surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora, the diversity of its plant communities. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park.

Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, is fascinating for its numerous ruins of old shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in the mountains in times past, and are monuments of this region’s cultural heritage. The Premužić Trail takes you to the very tips of the Velebit range and is amazing both for the feat of engineering it represents and for the diversity of the karst formations it passes through.

UNESCO The beech forests in the area of the Northern Velebit National Park and within the Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi Strict Nature Reserve, together with the beech forests at Suva draga, Klimenta and Oglavinovac-Javornik in the Paklenica National Park, together with beech forests in 10 other European countries, are entered on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The Alan Shepherds’ Huts The renovation of the shepherds’ huts within the Park has made possible overnight stays for visitors and the reintroduction of traditional livestock farming as an essential management measure for the preservation of biodiversity. The huts serve both for the accommodation of visitors and for the implementation of educational programmes on the subjects of natural species and habitats and the traditional way of life of the local population. Staying in the renovated shepherds’ huts, you will Summer 2018

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Weekend Getaway learn about the traditional way of living and working on Velebit and learn how that way of life was in complete harmony with nature and founded on the principles of sustainability.

The Northern Velebit National Park QKrasno 96, Krasno, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, www.npsjeverni-velebit.hr.

Velebit House Velebit House is a visitor and information centre for visitors to the Northern Velebit National Park. It is located in the village of Krasno, one of the mountain’s largest settlements. The Centre presents the natural and cultural wealth of the Park in a modern and attractive way throughout the year. You can find out what to visit in the Park, in Krasno and its surroundings, and you can buy entry tickets to the Park and souvenirs. You can learn about the climate, species and habitats, cultural heritage, geology and subterranean world of the Northern Velebit. The emphasis is on the deep chasms as a unique feature of the Park. You will learn about the geology and the process of formation of the chasms, their history and the techniques used to explore them, and you will be introduced to the unique animal kingdom under the ground. An especial attraction is the experience of entering the chasm using a special “lift”. Mystical and inaccessible to most, almost everyone can experience the real world under the ground at Velebit House. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www.kuca-velebita.npsjeverni-velebit.hr.

RIsnjak National Park Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak National Park. This range of mountains, from which can be viewed the Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the somewhat inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature of 12.60 in July. This of course makes it the perfect location throughout May for Marohlinijada – or in other words a month long mushroom picking contest.

Whilst wandering around with head bent to the ground looking for the little monsters don’t forget to raise your view to watch for bigger monsters. The park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance.

The Information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice – the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through the ‘valley of the butterflies’. Qhttp://np-risnjak.hr

Northern Velebit National Park Archives

52 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism

Thalasoo Wellness Centar Opatija Archives

Thalassotherapy Marine Medicine The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans were probably not the first to recognise the therapeutic properties of water. The Greeks ascribed the healing effects of spring and sea water to the gods, so bathers hoping for a cure would make offerings to them before their dip. Europe is scattered with remains testifying to ancient spa culture, including massive Roman thermae which could accommodate as many as 3000 people.

Before the advent of antibiotics and immunisation people went to spas to cure disease, recover from illness and maintain optimal health. In 19th century Europe tuberculosis was a widespread killer. Sanatoria were established in mountain regions and forests since it was believed that clean air, rest and relaxation could help the body fight infection from such diseases. Since the medical effects of thermal spas had already been noted, they were also prime spots where sanatoria were established. It was not just the sick who went there; the rich and famous flocked to fashionable spa resorts such as Baden Baden, Carlsbad (today Karlovy vary) and Yalta to “take the waters” or sea air and indulge in some serious socializing. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

It was at that time, when it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, that the potential Croatia’s coast had for tourists seeking to improve their health was noticed. The health resorts grew up, notably Opatija which became a popular year-round health resort with the beautiful period architecture you see today. Today, tests show that the Adriatic Sea is indeed exceptionally clean and salty, and the air quality along the coastline is generally excellent, so those pioneers of health tourism knew their stuff.

Thalassotherapy is a range of treatments you’ll find offered at coastal health resorts developed to harness the healing properties of the sea. The treatments use sea water and products from the sea, such as mud and seaweed, which are naturally antibiotic and antibacterial, rich in mineral salts, trace elements, vitamins and amino acids. These are not only beneficial for the skin; they enter the body through osmosis and stimulate circulation, flush out toxins, support healing and immunity, reduce pain and contribute to the all-round stress-relieving experience that is a bathe in beautiful clean seawater.

Thalassotherapy also uses sea air as a therapy. People have long considered that sea air, rich in ozone and loaded with sea salt, has a health-giving effect. On the Kvarner coast, the air is also scented by lush vegetation including Summer 2018

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Health Tourism aromatic plants such as pine, rosemary, sage and lavender.

Veli Lošinj in particular was beautifully planted with exotic specimens brought home by its sea captains who sailed around the globe. Although scientific evidence now disputes the ozone claim, the air at Veli Lošinj does help many people. The Croatian health service may send you to Veli Lošinj if you suffer from asthma, allergies, other respiratory illnesses, musculoskeletal or neurological disorders, and there are many overseas visitors to its Health Resort today.

What kinds of treatments can you expect in thalassotherapy? Warm sea water baths, including underwater massage jets; marine mud or seaweed body wraps and face masks; compresses made with sea products and sea air inhalations. Any of these treatments can be combined with physical exercise programmes, massage, relaxation classes, medical electrotherapy and alternative approaches such as acupuncture or Ayurveda. Thalassotherapy centres may offer programmes with a combination of these treatments designed to target particular problems, or clients can put together their own programmes in consultation with a therapist.

Rijeka is well located for three thalassotherapy resorts founded under the Austro-Hungarian Empire: Crikvenica,

swimming Yup, you’re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can’t see too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go for a dip? In the city itself there are about 20 beaches which are located to the east and west with two of them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly arranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration with additional facilities, hospitality and children’s playgrounds.

The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio to Preluk which is perfect for windsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all beaches and if you’re lucky enough to have a car, there is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west.

Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has brochure with maps of all beaches and their surrounding amenities which can be picked up at their offices or simply download it from the web.

Kantrida Swimming Pools QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, bazenikantrida@rijekasport.hr, www.rijekasport.hr/ BazeniKantrida. Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wed, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.

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Opatija and Veli Lošinj. Crikvenica is primarily a medical rehabilitation institution and does not offer stress reduction or beauty programmes as such, but Thalasso Wellness Centar Opatija has a fully-fledged spa offering relaxation and beauty treatments, while Veli Lošinj has created holistic programmes comprising thalassotherapy and medical treatments, exercise and education for sufferers of respiratory ailments, back pain, joint pain, skin conditions and more in managing their conditions.

Today we often forget that prevention is better than cure.

So indulge with a clear conscience in the fresh air, clean sea and your choice of marine treatments. You are ensuring your good health for the future!

We asked Radmila Depope, head physiotherapist in Thalasso Wellness Centar Opatija, to tell us a little about thalassotherapy and the treatments which can relieve pain and contribute to physical wellbeing.

Why is water so healing?

Radmila: Because of all its characteristics: the power of buoyancy, hydrostatic pressure and high specific capacity for thermal conductivity. These mean that water supports your body when exercising (your muscles need to do less work in order to move); it stimulates circulation, reduces swelling, and the effect of heat relaxes the body and reduces spasm and pain. All of this means that water helps in conditions where muscles are weak, and with rheumatic conditions, trauma, orthopaedic and neurological conditions, to name but a few…

What are the most common problems that people come to you with?

Radmila: Problems with feet, hips and hands; back pain, haemorrhoids, inflammatory skin conditions and stress.

Probably we see the greatest reduction of pain in osteoarthritis affecting the ankle joints, fibromyalgia and herniated or prolapsed discs in the neck region, and less pain reduction in osteoarthritis of the hips and rheumatism.

Are there any differences in the treatments you offer based on the seaon, summer and winter?

Radmila: There is no significant difference in summer or winter, there are just times of the year when we offer more slimming and detox programmes, or for example rejuvenation of dry skin at the end of the summer, and beauty treatments.

Can you feel the benefits of thalassotherapy after one day visit or does it take longer?

Radmila: If we look from the viewpoint of Plato’s theory that “the sea washes away the ills of all mankind”, for sure just one bath in a sea water pool can help a city dweller seeking an oasis of peace and a break from stress to feel better. Of course, more frequent use contributes to clients’ feeling of wellbeing in the longer term. For that reason we have many clients who use our services on a daily, monthly or annual basis. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism

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Shopping

Croatia In a Box Archives

Antiques Mali neboder Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more.

Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, www.antikvarijatmali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun, July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A Triton Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.

QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, www.tritonantikviteti.com/.

Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

Art galleries Laval Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.

QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mala galerija In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa.

56 Rijeka In Your Pocket

It has been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www. mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

Bookshops Antikvarijat Ex-Libris Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices.QD‑2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, www.ri-exlibris.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Ribook Specialised in online sales. QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15 55, www.superknjizara.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here!QC‑2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 15, www.vbz.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Verbum Specialising in religious themes.QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, www.verbum.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July 15 - August 15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Deliiicije Deliiicije is a wonderland for gourmands where you can find the most original and unique edible souvenirs such as chocolate with lavender, white-wine liqueurs and whole black truffles.QE‑2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, www.deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 30 00, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00.

Kraš Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms.QE‑2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kušaonica Frajona Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Piko A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, www. pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A Pip Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Primorsko-goranska Kašetica The aim of this mini-exhibition and shop on an Old-Town corner is to popularize local food and drink products, especially honey. The kašetica’s primary drawback is that its opening times are ambiguous, and there’s no guarantee that it will be open when you happen to come strolling by. Luckily the same building is shared by the (much more reliable) Primorska Konoba, a local-themed tavern which facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

broadly adheres to the same trad-food agenda and is a great place for a break.QKrojačka 1, tel. (+385-) 099 334 93 39. Open by prior arrangement.

Vinoteka 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE‑3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24, www.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

Gifts & Souvenirs Croatia in a Box A souvenir shop with a difference, Croatia in a Box started out with the idea of producing really beautiful gift boxes - decorated with Croatian motifs such as Glagolitic letters, embroidery symbols, gingerbread hearts – and providing the items to fill them with. Lining the shelves is a carefully curated selection of Croatian-designed jewelry, interiordesign items, accessories (check out the bags and purses

by Mura Pehnec) and boutique rakijas and wines. You can of course buy individual items without bothering with the box, but the fact that the packaging is part of the concept certainly makes present-buying a lot more fun.QGrivica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 344 54 45, www.croatiainabox.com/hr.

Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. A­J Filatelija Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.

QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, www. filatelija-rijeka.hr/. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. N Šta da?

The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. A

Made in Croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which exists for more than 40 years. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel. (+385-51) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A BuRa Design Store For the cutting edge of Croatian couture this is arguably one of the best addresses in the country, with racks of unique and edgy clothing reinforced by a fascinating Summer 2018

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Shopping Shopping centres & Malls Ri Department Store This department store first opened in 1974 with the intention of connecting a series of historical buildings on Korzo and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in the city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reaction. Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, unfortunately isn’t well kept which is obvious to every visitor.

QD‑2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16, www.robnakucari. hr/trgovine. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J Tower Center This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much every Croatian and international high-street brand you’ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multiscreen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination for the locals – especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few places in town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop.QS‑3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, www.tower-center-rijeka. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Piko Archives

selection of jewelry and accessories. Standouts include brooches by Eva Lumezi, luminous glass jewelry by Vitrum in Fabula, and the enigmatic, alluring, matt-black bags and necklaces made from recycled rubber by the Zagreb-based design team Gooma. Bura means “storm” in Croatian and anyone interested in contemporary style will be blown away by this stuff. QMatije Gupca 13b, tel. (+385-51) 56 49 40. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 13:00, Closed Sun. A­J

ZTC Rijeka This is Rijeka’s latest shopping mall. A couple of kilometres out of the city on the main coast road towards Opatija and the border with Slovenia. Opened in 2012 it features all the major shopping names in clothes, sporting goods, telecommunications, electrical goods, pharmacy, an exchange office and ATMs, plus two cafes, a restaurant and a supermarket. Most facilities are open from 09:00 to 21:00. There’s free Wi-Fi, and underground car park with invalid access. In fact everything you need in one place.

QM‑2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztcshopping.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. W

Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka Polića Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 42 20 95, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Mari Cro design studio If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.

QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A 58 Rijeka In Your Pocket

BuRa Design Store Archives

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Hotels In Croatia hotels aregraded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with reasonable prices nearby.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swimming pool are frequently provided.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main attractions. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car park, gym and one or more swimming pools.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation. Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy.

Five star hotels have restaurants with carefully selected menus.

Room service is usually available round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist is also on duty 24 hours.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island’s beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

Private accommodation In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to attract guests all year round.

Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families. The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croatian coast include great value for money and direct contact with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury apartments. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.

When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools. Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

Hostels Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard.

As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels.

Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Arrival & Getting Around Arriving By bus

Grand Hotel Bonavia Archives

Arriving By boat An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

Jadroagent QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, www.travel.jadroagent.hr/. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for local catamarans, local ferries as well as international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr.

Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

October - May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

Losinia Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, www. losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Rapska plovidba Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check the sailing schedule here.QHrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, www. rapska-plovidba.hr.

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Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; June 20 - September 10 Open 24/7, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online http://www. arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna and get 5% discount. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront?

Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online http://www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna and get 5% discount. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 66 06 60/(+385-) 060 30 20 10, www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna.

Arriving By car From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka.

From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.

From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.

Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Around for other cab companies).

Rijeka Airport Rijeka Airport.QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+38551) 84 20 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr.

Open 08:00 - 18:00.

Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.

Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website has a good English page featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 04.

There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day.

Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Around for other cab companies).QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 13 04, www.hzpp.hr.

Arriving By train

Tourist Information

Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.

Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website has a good English page featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 04. There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day.

Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the AdriaticQĆikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+385-51) 62 88 88, www. kvarner.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. From June 16 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Arriving By plane Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Olivari buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

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Tourist Information Center Rijeka Tourist Information Centre.QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Photo by Višnja Aramabšić

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Rijeka Basics Customs

Safety

There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Visas

Electricity

Croatian Visa Policies are fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

When things go wrong

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Toilets Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

national holidays 2018 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 1 Easter April 2 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 31 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day rijeka.inyourpocket.com

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Maps & Street Register Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2

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Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3

Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1

Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1

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Maps & Street Register Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2

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Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

Veslarska Viktora cara Emina Vinka Benca Viškovo Vodovodna Vrlije Vukovarska Wenzelova Zadarska Zagrebačka Zametska Zanonova Zaobilaznica Zvonimirova Žabica Žrtava fašizma

E-2 O-2, P-3 / A-1 M-2, N-2 L-1 E-1 V-1 N-2, O-2 E-3 C-2 D-3 L-2, M-2 C-2, D-2 G-2, S-1 M-2, N-2 B-2, C-2 Q-3 / D-1, E-1

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Karlovac this year celebrates its 439th birth day, and the celebrations will last three whole weeks. Right up to 13 July, for those who head to Karlovac it will be easy to join in the fun since the celebratory spirit will take over almost every corner of the city.

You are all invited to the of 439th birthday celebrations of the city of Karlovac.

Let's celebrate together from 23 June til 13 July!

More info: www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr

City of meetings

KARLOVAC TOURIST BOARD | +385 47 615 115 | info@karlovac-touristinfo.hr