Rijeka In Your Pocket City Guide No19

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2019

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Rijeka 2020: City of Cultúr

N°19 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

_ Port of Diversity

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

Croatian Cultural Dictionary

A warm welcome from our editor in chief

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

What’s On 6

Kvarner

Events galore

Out and about

Remaking The Adriatic

10

46

Weekend Getaways

52

Explore surroundings

New Croatian Architecture

Restaurants

13

Shopping

55

Lunch or dinner, you pick

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Local Flavour 22 Keep tradition with cuisine

Arrival & Getting Around

Coffee & Cakes

Rijeka Basics

26

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife

29

Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing

44

33

58

Lost? Help is at hand

61

Making your stay stress free

Maps&Street Register Street index / City centre map City map

62 64

Discover what we uncovered

The variety of fish in the Adriatic Sea exhibition in Natural History Museum, photo by Marinko Babić

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Foreword Rijeka may not be the best known city in Croatia, but it is the city with the most potential. We already know what Dubrovnik has to offer; while Adriatic near-neighbours Split and Zadar have been spent the best part of a decade luxuriating in the positive PR that comes from an ongoing tourist boom.

Rijeka is the joker in the pack, a former industrial city that concentrated on trade and commerce while other seaside municipalities built hotels and brought trucks full of pebbles to fill out their new beaches. Preconceptions can sometimes be turned round at unexpected speed, however. Not only has Rijeka become a city of pavement cafés, portside strolls, new museums (and yes, even here) new pebble beaches, it has also garnered a reputation for providing some of the best summertime entertainment on the coast.

The advantages of its proximity to Belle-Epoque resort Opatija have been rediscovered; it is now more attractive than ever to spend a holiday sleeping in one town and using the beaches and facilities of the other.

Rijeka is also on the ferry and catamaran routes to party islands like Rab and Pag, bringing an additional breath of youth and hedonism to a city that has never been shortof energy. It will be Rijeka’s turn to be European Capital of Culture in 2020, and many of the festive and live-music events planned for next year are already being tried out in summer 2019. With so much going on, there has never been a more promising time to visit.

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover www.rijeka2020.eu Facebook/Instagram/Twitter/Youtube: rijeka2020 Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Rijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Eros Ramazzotti, Vita ce n’è World Tour, August 15th, Open Air Theatre Opatija, part of ‘Open Air Theatre Opatija - Summer 2019’

What’s On Enrich your calendar, see the exhibitions, concerts, and special events in and around town

What’s What’s On On Exhibitions 17.05 - 01.05 » The variety of fish in the Adriatic Sea

An analytical insight into the integral role into how fish have a huge impact on the biodiversity of the Adriatic sea.

At this point, there are approximately 458 vast species in our sea, making it one of the richest seas in the Mediterranean. The photos here touch our very conscience in why species are becoming endangered, picturing the causes of degradation and habitat destruction through various ways. QThe Natural History Museum, Lorenzov prolaz 1, www.prirodoslovni.com.

06.06 - 11.07 » The Radoslav Putar Prize

The four finalists of the Radoslav Putar Prize, presented every year to the most promising young Croatian artist, get to show why they were placed on the short list. It’s certainly a splendid introduction to what Croatian artists are doing these days. 2019 finalists are Sabina Mikelić, Predrag Pavić, Božidara Katić and Tin Dožić.QD‑2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

01.01 - 31.12 » The First in the World – Rijeka Torpedo You are at home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a launching station and numerous screenings. Why? Because Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented! O ​ pen by prior arangement. B-1, Željezničko skladište, Žabica 4Q40/20kn, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Everyday. 06.06 -

06.06 - 04.09 » Marc Chagall – Colours of Love

What a bumper event in the heart of Rijeka with visitors able to see 93 of Chagall’s works, including lithographs, copper art, works on wood and other drawings. The exhibits range from his early 20s to mid-80s and depict his creative love for homeland, origin, religion, spirituality, and more.QF‑2, Kortil, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65.

14.06 - 31.08 » New time, second half Due to the small space of the Rijeka City Museum it is soon to be relocated to the former administrative palace of the sugar refinery and Benčić factory in less than a year. The exhibition depicts the museum’s journey by using items from several of its collections which are testimony of the city’s past three centuries of urban life (paintings, sculptures, postcards, clothing, photographs, the biographies of famous locals) and more. QCity Museum of Rijeka, Trg Riccarda Zanelle 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

12.07 - 08.09 » Vlado Martek: Multi-title exhibition

The first retrospective of 300 art works of mixed genres

by Vlado Martek in Rijeka. The exhibition leaps from one facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

media form to another with a focus on the artist's experimental treatment of language from the 1970s till now. It’s the dual position of a visual artist and poet who obsessively accepts the analysis of language in the role of art.

QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

Festivals 14.06 - 15.06 » Dark Circle Fest

The abandoned factory halls of the Hartera complex provide a suitably gritty backdrop to this festival of dark metal, with bands performing on two stages over two days. Headlining are Kryn and Nanowar of Steel. Q-2, Hartera FactoryQwww.facebook.com/darkcirclefest.

21.06 - 23.06 » Krk Music Fest

Krk is all set to become the centre of attention, with Krk Music Fest. This 3 day event will see the island town of Krk transformed into a centre of music, food, and culture!

There are 5 main locations in the town where you can find something to enjoy, but that’s not all there’ll be. Qwww. krkmusicfest.com.

Film 19.06 - 11.09 » Seeing! A Photon’s Journey Across Space, Time & Mind

Is astronomy your hobby? Are you fascinated by stories about the Universe? Then head to the city’s Astronomical Centre where each Wednesday the digital planetarium shows the film “SEEING! A Photon’s Journey Across Space, Time & Mind” in English. Groups of 8 or more, to see different films that Centre offers in more than 10 languages, can pre-book at 051/455 700, via e-mail astronomski-centar-rijekas@rijekasport.hr or FB Page Astronomski centar Rijeka.

QThe Rijeka Astronomical Center, Sveti Križ 33.

26.08 - 30.08 » The 17th Liburnia Film Festival

One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Opatija last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike! All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.Qwww.liburniafilmfestival.com.

10.09 - 14.09 » History Film Festival

Each day we discover something unknown from the past, from unravelling hidden truths, conspiracies, through to moments in war and so on. This festival is here to appraise new historical documentary films produced both independently and via official TV companies.

Thematic conferences, seminars, film author workshops and more can be experienced as it’s the perfect gathering for film buffs and those in the industry. Qwww. historyfilmfestival.com.

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What’s On Jazz & Blues 05.07 - 07.07 » The 19th Liburnia Jazz Festival

Three nights of top quality jazz in the open air. The festival begins with pianists Matija Dedić and Vasil Hadžimanov and closes with bulgarian trio PlaYIS. Sandwiched inbetween will be Maria João/OGRE and Bojan Aleksovski with David Baumgarten and their Sinatra project.Qwww. liburniajazz.hr.

Special/Miscellaneous Events 08.06 - 15.08 » open air theatre opatija summer 2019

Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers such as Diana Krall (July 16) and Eros Ramazzotti (August 15). Check the whole programme online.Qwww.festivalopatija.hr.

28.06 - 30.08 » Kastav Cultural Summer

From its beginnings in the 90's when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other fields

and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. KastavQwww.kkl.hr.

29.06 - 29.07 » The Margaret’s Summer

A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Venetians attacked the town. BakarQwww.tz-bakar.hr.

06.07 - 01.09 » Summer on Gradina Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing conceptual program placed around different parts of the fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and presentations. This is the 14th edition and the action kicks off on July 6th with the event of lighting 5000 candles and lasts until September 1st. Just being up on Trsat is a breath taking experience!Qwww.trsatskagradina.com.

12.07 - 13.07 » (Sr)etno Selce - Ethno Festival

The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots and are proud to present their cultural heritage through authentic products and dishes, national dances and old

Vlado Martek_what is art, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum Rijeka

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What’s What’s On On costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the energy, the past!Qwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

16.07 - 18.08 » Osor Musical Evenings

Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for the Osor Musical Evenings.Qwww.osorfestival.eu.

19.07 - 23.07 » Adriatica Folk Fest

Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place.

Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments will perform. Crikvenica & Novi VinodolskiQw‑ ww.adriatica-folk-fest.com.

19.07 - 21.07 » CrikvArt

Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face! CrikvenicaQwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

08.08 - 10.08 » The 495th Lovrečeva – Krk Fair

Can you believe that this fair began way back in 1524 in celebration of the Feast of Saint Lawrence, patron to the island of Krk. Once a Roman province, the Kamplin Square will serve as the main stage as it unfolds age old traditions; hear and see tales of the Frankopan noble family and pirate voyages, Roman legionnaire re-enactments, Glagolitic chants, medieval dances, jousting and more.

KrkQwww.tz-krk.hr.

Sport 19.09 - 29.09 » Thousand Islands Race

Sailing addicts mustn’t miss the chance to sail along the entire Adriatic this summer. In an official race, the regatta passes more than a thousand islands over two stages. The race starts in Rijeka and finishes in Porto Montenegro in Stage 1, and then the fleet navigates back to Rijeka along the same course to complete Stage 2. Technical challenges, winds, waves, and many other variables will test even the very best sailors.Qwww.scor.hr.

28.09 10:00 » King of Učka

Are you an avid cyclist? Are you up for a challenge? Then get ready to ‘pedal to the metal’ in this recreational road bike race which leads from Ičići (at sea level) and ends up to the highest peak of the Učka Mountain named Vojak (1396m). The ride is a true battle but the reward once you get to the top and its views will be worth every sweat you pour. So come and join the fun and accept the challenge! Qwww.kingofucka.com. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka 2020 One of the things that makes Rijeka such a fascinating place to visit in 2019 is the fact that the whole city is getting ready for 2020, the year when the Bayhugging city will serve (alongside Galway in Ireland) as European Capital of Culture. Operating under the title “Port of Diversity”, Rijeka’s 2020 plans aim to highlight the historical and cultural complexities of what has frequently been a crossroads of peoples and fates.

An important aspect to the lead-up to the event has been the preparation of cultural infrastructure that will serve the city well in the coming year, and provide lasting value in the years that follow. The former Benčić factory, a sprawling mass of red brick and plaster standing opposite Rijeka railway station, is an important focus of post-industrial repurposing: the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art moved into part of the complex last year; the City Museum will take over the factory’s lovingly-restored, late-Baroque administrative building at the end of 2019. With a new public library planned for the remainder of the complex, Benčić will become a knot of cultural activity for generations to come. Another idea developed with the future in mind isRi-Hub, a municipally-run co-working and conference space that also functions as a coordination centre for neighbourhood cultural and social initiatives. One major project that looks et to impact on the tourist imagination is the restoration of the Galeb, the official yacht used by Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito currently moored on Rijeka’s seafront. Purchased by the city of Rijeka, the hulk will reopen as a museum that looks set to become a major historical attraction. There are also plans to smarten up and revitalize the area where the river Riječina flows into the sea: Nikola Bašić’s non-denominational house of prayer is one mooted structure that may or may not be built in time for the big event.

The onset of Rijeka 2020 has also led to a host of fresh initiatives in the festival sphere, with many new summer events tried out experimentally in 2018-2019 to see how the programme for 2020 will shape up. It is hoped that the best of these events will survive longterm, providing the city with a summer-long arts-andmusic profile. Hence we are already into the second year of CiklusFurioza, a spring-summer cycle of concerts that concentrates on female performers with an indie background.Other festive events green-lighted for 2019 and 2020 include Porto Etno, celebrating the food and music of the multifarious ethnic groups that make up Rijeka and its hinterland; and Sweet & Salt, an indie-meets-electronica music festival that makes the most of urban locations.

Elsewhere the 2020 team are putting the finishing touches to a packed programme of exhibitions and events. The accent will be on communities, local culture and lasting legacy, with particular attention to the outlying island and village communities that don’t always feel as if they are part of the big urban picture.

More details on www.rijeka2020.eu Summer 2019

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Museum of Apoxyomenos, photo by Bosnić&Dorotić

Remaking the Adriatic New Croatian Architecture

Architecture & Tourism Adriatic architecture is all the rage these days, with fans of modernism yearning nostalgically for the fantastic hotels built along the Croatian coast in the 1970s and 1980s. The tourism-driven building boom of those years gave Croatia’s seaside an easily identifiable, contemporary image.

Nowadays a new generation of architects are renewing the region’s reputation as a place for innovation and good design. The advertising slogan of the Croatian National Tourist Office famously used to read “Croatia: The Mediterranean as it Once Was”. Maybe “Croatia: the Mediterranean of the Future” would be a suitable replacement in the years ahead.

The question of contemporary Croatian architecture – what should it look like, and what should seaside cities do to improve public space for locals and visitors alike – is a big local issue in the historic port city of Rijeka. As a major industrial hub, Rijeka brings to the forefront all the questions about how industrial heritage should be repurposed. As a designated European Capital of Culture in 2020, Rijeka has also taken on the mantle of artistic showcase, with various projects designed to show the future direction of Adriatic art and design.

One of the central planks of Rijeka 2020 is the Sweet & Salt strand, a programme which focuses on a particular postindustrial strip of the city and looks at ways of bringing new functions to”lost” urban spaces,nurturing new ideas in urban planning at the same time. The project will continue a process that has already begun, that of transforming the area beside the river Riječina and the Molo Longo pier into a lively pedestrian strip.

Arguably the most exciting part of the project is the planned Ecumenical Pavilion, a non-denominational house of prayer and meditation designed by the legendary Zadar architect Nikola Bašić. Taking the form of a smallwhite rotunda enclosed in a spiral, the pavilion is inspired by the sweeping form of the Milky Way, and is designed to focus the mind of the visitor on the infinite. As well as being the perfect example of Bašić’s visionary style (and more on him later), it also serves as an ideal metaphor for Rijeka’s tolerant, multicultural, multi-faith and no-faith identity. Placing it in a former industrial zone beside the Riječina river lends this part of town a whole new image.

Leader of the Sweet & Salt strand Idis Turato has invited the cream of the Croatian art and design world to come up with ideas for 2020, although it is as yet unclear which of them will actually get built. Turato himself has already made a profound mark on the Adriatic architectural scene, designing (with erstwhile studio partner Saša Randić) the quite extraordinary Museum of the Apoxyomenos in Mali Lošinj. Despite being housed inside a 19th-century villa, the museum boasts an almost space-age interior, with the statue of the Apoxyomenos itself housed inside a white capsule. Randić and Turato were also responsible for the amazing Fran Krsto Frankopan elementary school on the island of Krk, together with its futuristic sports hall and accompanying public plaza. Turato’s work for private clients – the boldly cubist Villa Gumno on Krk, and the audaciously facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Museum of Apoxyomenos, photo by Bosnić&Dorotić

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Architecture & Tourism space-age Nest and Cave House in Volosko – have adorned the pages of architecture magazines around the globe.

However it is arguably Nikola Bašić who is the doyen of the new Adriatic style, having won worldwide fame for designing the Sea Organ on the seafront at Zadar. Completed in 2005, this innovative use of public space consists of organ pipes mounted inside a broad stairway that leads down to the sea. Activated by lapping waves, the pipes produce a soothing if not always musical polyphony that’s the perfect accompaniment to a spot of maritime meditation. The organ really gets into its stride when the sea is choppy. Given the famed beauty of Zadar’s sunsets, it’s a wonderful place to sit in the evening, when it attracts quite a crowd.

Three years later Bašić added Greeting to the Sun, a large disc set into the paving stones of the coastal promenade, and consisting of light-sensitive cells that absorb solar energy by day and emit a kaleidoscopic array of colourful light come night-time. Together with the Sea Organ, situated a few metres away, Greeting to the Sun has transformed this part of the Zadar seafront into a lively social forum for mingling, moving and hanging around. Zadar, suddenly catapulted into the premier division of forward-looking resort towns, has never looked back.

Bašić has also helped to change the face of Šibenik, designing the seductively curvaceous blob that is the Hotel D-Resort, complete with its rooftop gardens. Bašić is the brains behind the (yet unrealized) plans for transforming Šibenik’s transport network, with a huge escalator linking the shoreline Dolac district with the hilltop St Michael’s Fortress, and a cable-car ascending to the fortress of Barone and St John. Šibenik is a good example of a city that has pushed its post-industrial woes into the background thanks to sound strategic thinking: Šibenik’s Banj beach, on a stretch of coastline that was previously out of bounds due to nearby factory installations, is an exemplary piece of modern landscaping that serves as a useful model for other Adriatic destinations.

Indeed there is talk of resurfacing rivas and making-over marinas all over the Croatian coast. Plans for Baška on the island of Krk envisage a new promenade behind the beach and a floating performance stage; the island of Susak has just opened an all-new seafront walk. Betina, already transformed by the opening of the Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding, has a newly paved port area that combines boat moorings with a piazza-style public space.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Perhaps the most illustrious exponents of the new Adriatic architecture are Zagreb studio 3LHD, who redesigned maritime Croatia’s most famous public space – the Riva in Split – as well as building hotels in the Istrian resort of Rovinj, and an impressive sports hall in the Rijeka suburb of Zamet. Judging by the neat geometric terraces of 3LHD’s brand-new Hotel Park in Rovinj, Adriatic modernism has a bright future.

By Jonathan Bousfield rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL key

Sun 11:00-18:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 180 kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­ J­6­W

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Croatian Konoba Municipium Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14. Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. (70 - 170kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­J­W Konoba Nebuloza Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, www.konobanebuloza. com. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. (75 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­J­W Nono Frane Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.com. Open 11:0022:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-23:00. (50 - 90kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­S­L­6­W Placa 51 When you have a dream, and that dream comes true: that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51 with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines, and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54. Open 09:00-23:00; facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

International Kamov Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.

QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr.

Open 11:00-23:00. (80 - 170 kn). A­P­G­T­L­W Sorriso Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/(+385-) 091 271 10 66, www.restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 12:00-22:00. (40 - 80kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W Spagho Just a stone throw from the Korza boardwalk, Spagho is the Italian Stallion of restaurants in Rijeka with a mega menu on offer. Sure, the chef’s daily specials are up, but the variety here goes beyond pizza, risotto and pasta, with steaks, soups, salads and desserts aplenty. The interior is a lovely fusion of wood and stone, and they also have an outdoor terrace. Open 10am for brunch through till late in the evening.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22/091 11 00 63 0, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. (50 - 200 kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­S­V­J­W

Konoba Blato In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-18:00; closed Sun. (35 - 80 kn). A­P­G­X­T­W Girica Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, www.konoba-girica.incroatia.info. Open 09:0023:00; closed Sun. (38 - 150 kn). A­P­G­T­L­W Summer 2019

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Restaurants Ive This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. Open 10:00-24:00; closed Mon. (120 - 150 kn).

A­G­X­T­B­L­6­W Konoba Volta A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu – no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).

QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 83 00 30. Open 13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. (35 - 105kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­W Tarsa The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89. Open 10:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00; closed Mon. (60 - 180 kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­L­6­W Trsatica A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.

QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, www.restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:0023:00. (60 - 150 kn). P­X­T­B­6­W

14 Rijeka In Your Pocket Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Ethnic Mexican Cantina Bodega What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case – especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. (50 - 80kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­L­W Peking You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, www.pekingrestaurant. fullbusiness.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (40 - 120 kn).

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Pizza Maslina na Zelenom trgu A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg also has his daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, wasabi tuna, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (26 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­S­J­W

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Restaurants

O’Hara From Zagreb to Rijeka, this pizza franchise is booming with their one-of-a-kind authentic Napolitano style pizzas. The entire process has ‘Naples’ written all over it, many of the ingredients derive from the city as do the recipes (including the making of the dough). The oven is one of a kind and the entire process is open for visitors to watch the pizza makers in action. Get a real tasty of Italy at O’Hara’s. QRiva 12a, tel. (+385-51) 56 88 88, www. facebook.com/ohararijeka. Open 08:00-24:00.

Pampas A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58/091 219 05 80.

Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 70 kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­S­ V­W Pizzeria Bracera A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00-24:00.

(32 - 95kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

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Quick Eats Bar Bar Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients.

There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more.

Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs! A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel. (+385-) 099 331 72 08, www.bar-bar.eu. Open Mon 10:00-24:00; Tue 10:00-02:00; Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00; closed Sun. (8 - 30 kn).

A­P­B­S­J­W­K ­i Buffet Cocco Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun. (35 - 110 kn). A­G­X­T­B­W GRAD kavana&bar Situated on the waterfront just short of the ferry terminal, Grad is one of those all-purpose café-bars that are a good place to grab a bite to eat or drink coffee during the Summer 2019

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Restaurants daytime, or plough your way through the drinks menu at night. Six daily specials are chalked up on a board every lunchtime, all displaying a deft combination of local seasonal ingredients and contemporary European savvy.

Boutique gins and a good wine list might just keep you here until closing time. QRiva Boduli 7B, tel. (+385-) 091 272 61 63. Open 08:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­J Mornar Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.

Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 5b, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22. Open 09:00-23:00. (22 - 140 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­J­6­W ­i RICA Gluten Free This health-oriented café-bakery right opposite the National Theatre serves some awesomely good fare; no wonder the outdoor terrace is one of Rijeka’s most popular people-watching spots. Snack on savoury burek or sandwiches, or opt for the hard-to-resist cakes, syrupy baklava and creamy slices of kremšnita. You can also buy loaves of bread and packets of biscuits from the bakery counter.

QVerdijeva 3b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 93, www.rica.hr.

Open 07:00-21:30; closed Sun. A­P­B­J­W

Seafood Feral Croatian classics – it’s a simple place with a small menu – which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, www.konoba-feral. com. Open 08:00-24:00. (30 - 100 kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­S­W Na kantunu Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. Comfortable outside seating stretching by the Dead Channel with an excellent view of the fortress Trsat. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community.QE‑3, Wenzelova 4, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 71. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. (50 - 200kn).

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Vegetarian Klub Makrovega Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45.

Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. (15 - 30 kn). N­P­ G­T­S­6­W 16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say.

The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver.QE‑2, Užarska 14 - u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 624 05 24, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 07:00-15:00; closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). N­G­X­T­B­ V­J­6­W ­i Tifan Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found ‘till 4pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 07:00-16:00; closed Sun. (30 - 60 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W ­i

Kvarner Restaurants Cres Konoba Beli When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch, you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines, served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, www.belicres.com/konoba-beli/. Open 10:00-22:00. (60 - 140kn).

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Ičići Commodore A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska 7a, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49/(+385-) 098 982 26 23. Open 12:0022:00. (50 - 360 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Dopolavoro If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style – it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.

QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. Open 12:00-22:00. (50 - 140 kn). A­G­X­T­B­S­L­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Photo byfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Višnja Arambašić

Summer 2019

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Restaurants Kastav

Krk

Mala riba This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30-23:00. (70 - 110 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

Bracera This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” – sardines or similar.

Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, www.konobabracera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (45 - 300kn). N­P­ G­X­T­B­W

Kostrena Kostrenka Hidden away in Kostrena just east of Rijeka, this is a real find for those prepared to rove far and wide in search of good local food. The emphasis is on seafood (with trad inexpensive dishes like whitebait rubbing shoulders with the finest white fish), although there are plenty of meaty alternatives, including regional specialities like žgvacet (lamb stew) from the island of Krk. And there’s a full range of pizzas to keep all family members happy. Reserve time for the lemon-meringue pie.QRožići 3, Kostrena, tel. (+385-51) 28 31 79, www.kostrenka.com/. Open 12:0023:00; closed Tue. (45-110kn). A­P­B­S­W

Konoba Nada If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (135 - 175kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­W Konoba Ribice As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish

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18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Restaurants with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat.QUlica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01, www.konoba-ribice.com. Open 18:00-01:00.

(30 - 70 kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

ska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 66 93 50, www.gospoja. hr. Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 200 kn). A­G­X­T­B­ S­L­W

Rivica Restaurant Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.

QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 200 kn). A­P­ X­T­B­J­6­W

Draga di Lovrana Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon 18:00-23:00. (120 - 240 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W

Vinotel Gospoja Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash – a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopan‑

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Lovran

Lovranska vrata With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town, directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities.QTrg Sv Jurja 94, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 10 50.

Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 150 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W

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Restaurants NaJade Classic good food – fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00-24:00. (70 - 200 kn).

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Matulji Stancija Kovačići Idyllically positioned below Mt. Učka and above Opatija.

With a flair for tradition, chef Vinko Frlan favours local produce above all with meat, fish, cheese, Istrian prosciutto, truffles, olive oil and herbs grown in the restaurant garden.

Not to mention the Boškarin beef, lamb baked under the iron bell, dishes with asparagus, nettle, wild garlic, homemade pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, homemade bread and more.

The fusion of contemporary meets tradition is scene not only in the menu but in the stunning architecture of the restaurant which also houses a serene outdoor terrace.

Stancija Kovačići is perfect for a weekend getaway as they have five rooms for accommodation with the Učka Nature Park nearby, mesmerising Opatija down below, and lots of hiking trails in the surrounding area. This hidden gem is well worth a visit when exploring the Kvarner region!QRukavac 51, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 21 06, www.stancija-kovacici.hr/. Open 12.00-23:00; closed Tue. (90 - 160 kn).

Mošćenička Draga Johnson This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice.

QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W Konoba Zijavica Right beside the seafront and with a terrace out on the beach, this is another place that brings out the best in Kvarner cuisine – traditional food served with contemporary finesse, with priority given to what’s fresh and seasonal. It’s a great place to try local fish, scampi, seashells and homemade fuži pasta, and there’s usually something featuring traditional boškarin beef on the menu. QŠetalište 25, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 72 43, www. konoba-zijavica.com/. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 120 kn).

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Opatija Ariston The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperialstyle dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional ser20 Rijeka In Your Pocket

vice, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it.QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, www.villa-ariston.hr. Open 16:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00; closed Tue. (180 - 600 kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Bistro Yacht Club A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour – enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try. Friendly and comfortable.QZert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, www.yacht-club-opatija.com.

Open 12:00-24:00. (50 - 150 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ 6­W Cantinetta Sv. Jakov A unique restaurant beneath the grand arcades and perhaps one of the Opatija’s best kept secrets , Cantinetta Sv. Jakov may be best described as a blend of an italian trattoria and a wine bar. The menu is focused on good and simple Mediterranean cuisine, such as grilled fresh fish, grilled steak, fish soup and homemade pasta with a commitment using local and sustainable foods.QPava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 12:00-15:00,18:00-22:00. (140 - 200 kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­L­W Gastro World This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 00, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00-10:00,18:30-21:00. (90 - 1800kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­J­W Istranka A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria – a region with a very distinct style.

A shady terrace and musical accompaniment – worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+38551) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35. Open 11:00-23:00. ​​​​​​​(50 - 140 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

Rab Restaurant Ana Situated not too far from Rab’s main bus station, this eatery seems a firm favourite of residents of the island, which in itself speaks volumes. Very spacious, this restaurant would accommodate a number of groups without any being overly close to another. Great for families who might be worried about the young ‘uns getting underfoot, and it’s far enough away from the main hustle and bustle of the town. Like many restaurants on the island the menu is inrijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants fluenced by what is caught that morning, but certainly the cuttlefish is well worth having, if you’re partial.QPalit 80, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 43 76, www.rab-ana.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 24:00. (50 - 400kn). A­P­T­U­ B­L­6­W Šanpjer Terrace only, this small marina venue was possibly the highlight of a recent weekend break. Generous portions for what you’re paying (given that island prices tend to be higher than normal anyway), and there wasn’t a scrap of food sent back to the kitchen. Staff are exceptionally helpful and polite, and service is prompt. This reviewer had octopus salad and breaded shrimp, and could easily have had a second plate it was that good. An ideal venue to break-up an evening out, or to start one, or to end one…

QŠetalište kralja Petra Krešimira 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 83. Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 160kn). P­T­U­B­ S­J­6­W

Volosko Konoba Tramerka Just up the steps from Volosko’s twee harbour, Tramerka is a very different kettle of fish from the chic seafront restaurants, with its secret grotto-like interior and benches strewn outside in the alley. Seafood rules the menu, and the owner or waiter will often advise you on what you should order - based on what came fresh out of the sea that day. A lot of imagination goes into the starters and desserts, so come prepared for a three-courser.QDr. A. Mohorovičića 15, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 17 07, www. konoba-tramerka.com/en/home/. Open 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. (50 - 200 kn). A­P­B­ W Konoba Valle Losca A traditional inn that gets the thumbs up from the local gourmet crowd, Valle Losca is one of those places that has built up a cult reputation by offering seasonal ingredients and a shrewd selection of rustic recipes – casseroles, baked meats and fish, and lots of home-made pasta. The ambience is as cosy as the food, with a cute bare stone interior and a small summer terrace out on this characteristic Volosko street. Not many tables though so try and reserve.

QUl. Andrije Štangera 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 095 580 37 57. Open 13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. July - August 31 Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (80 - 160 kn).

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Plavi podrum A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.

QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 180 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ S­W Summer 2019

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Local Flavour

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Local flavour, local dishes...

Keep tradition with cuisine 22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour Food Markets Visiting a city's marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you'll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water's edge it's fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn't miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it's no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today's market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It's built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it's the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it's usually thronging with people, as Rijeka's citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there's a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers.

The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age.

In one you'll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce.

For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce.

Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you'll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made food. It's what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood.

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it's a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb's lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs.

In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads. But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen.

Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs.

Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady's garden…

Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…

Once you've tried the market, there's no going back. It's an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Then there's the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you're in town in the winter.

And let's not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries.

With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with the morning's gossip. This is where you can feel the beating heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It's the real Rijeka.

Floating market Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

What’s going on? facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019

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Local Flavour Local Dishes Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism section, here we’ll focus on the gastronomy of the region.

Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.

Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can enjoy locally-reared lamb – see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime.

This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one is Gligora – you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68).

Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic.

On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.

24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out.

In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic. Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it.

On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.

Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight.

Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels.

Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

foodie’s guide 20.07 » The Blueberry Day One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the know how of this fruit through educational workshops and in the afternoon, all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other traditional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass orchestra band will perform. Ravna GoraQwww.tzravnagora.hr.

16.08 » Folk festival Rokova On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association.

Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long will be prepped! LiganjQwww.tz-lovran.hr.

24.08 - 31.08 » Fishermen's Week Everything is fishy here, and on a positive note! Started in 1966, a plethora of exhibitions, workshops, concerts, folk dances, sporting competitions and culinary festivities where locals prepare traditional fish dishes never cease to amaze. CrikvenicaQwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

30.08 - 01.09 » Fig Days If you’re on Krk around the beginning of September, this festival gives you the chance to sample and buy all kinds of food and drink based on the sweet, sweet fig in its fresh and dried forms.Qwww.tz-krk.hr.

30.08 - 31.08 » Wine Days of the island of Krk - Vrbnik 2019 Famous for its excellent wines, it is not surprising that numerous wine events will be celebrated on Krk this summer. One such event is Wine Days that will encompass some major wine tasting as well as a sales exhibition of wines and local products. Lectures on wine will also be held for the hearty, and all this is topped off by a homely cultural programme. Q.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Coffee & Cakes Coffee Book Caffe Dnevni boravak For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, Ciottina 12a. Open 07:00-00:00; Sun 16:00-00:00; Sat 09:00-00:00. N­P­X­T­E­J­6­W Cukarikafe The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo…

What more could you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 888 59 49. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00. A­P­ G­X ­T ­B ­6 ­W Ferrari It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia.QD‑2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. Open 07:00-02:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­B­J Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the city library which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.

QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:0023:00. N­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Fiorello Pub A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central.

QD‑2, Korzo 2d, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. Open 07:0024:00; Sun 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. N­P­X­ T­B­J­W Iskra Located in the heart of Rijeka since 1975, this bar provides a blend of traditional and modern in its ambient and variety of drinks. You’ll enjoy their wide selection of Croatian wines and delicious prosciutto. If you’re visiting during Rijeka’s famous Carnival, this is where you should be.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Open 06:0022:00; Sat 06:00-14:00; Sun 07:30-13:00. July & August Open 06:00 - 14:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­6­W 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Kosi toranj Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/funky house breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE‑2, Put vele crikve 1. Open 07:00-24:00. N­P ­X ­T ­B­ J­W Latino A nice arty little café with good cakes.QE‑2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun 07:00-14:00. N­P­X­T­B­6­W Nad urom Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee.

However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.

Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, www.nadurom.com.

Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. N­P ­G ­X ­T ­B­ J­W Piramida A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51)22 99 26. Open 07:00-23:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­J­6­W Striga At the same city square as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1, Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. Open 07:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-24:00. N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W Vintage bar You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress – which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77. Open 09:00-02:00. B rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Cakes Cacao A stand-out patisserie celebrated for the sheer range and quality of the things on offer, Cacao is the kind of place that demands repeat visits if you are to fully appreciate what they are capable of.

Otherwise it’s a pretty tall order to make a choice between the delicate millefeuilles, the outstanding macaroons, the delicious cheesecakes and the fantastic ice cream. With biscuits and hand-made chocolates on sale too, you’re unlikely to leave empty-handed. QRiva 14, tel. (+385-) 091 202 06 30, www.cacao. hr/. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 09:0024:00. P­G­B­S­J­W Choco bar bonbonnière Kraš Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco.QD‑2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:0023:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. A­P­G­X­ T­B­J­W Gelateria Corso Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too.

A perfect terrace for a spot of peoplewatching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51) 30 19 45/(+385-) 098 992 59 87. Open 07:00-02:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Piko PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread, pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks.

A pleasant ambience and always fresh products will make your day in Rijeka more enjoyable.QKorzo 38b, tel. (+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka.hr.

Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 07:00-13:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Coffee & Cakes ice cream Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don’t miss the homemade version in a slastičarnica. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum.

Opatija Coffee Café Wagner Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana – a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the furcoat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather.

QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+38551) 20 20 71, www.amadriapark.com/hr. Open 07:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Choco bar bonbonnière Kraš Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant – in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-andcoffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolateplus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box.

QMaršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62, www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­W Design hotel Astoria One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails.QUlica maršala Tita 174, tel. (+38551) 70 63 50, www.hotel-astoria.hr. Open 07:0012:00,15:00-22:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W Palme Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, www.hotel-bristol. hr. Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­W 28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Bars

barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 07:0005:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­6­W

Bar Bar #2 The Bar Bar family is slowly but surely expanding. Yes indeed, venue number two is dubbed as Bar Bar#2 and is the new kid on the block with a full pedal to the metal publike feel to it. Even though it is the youngest member, Bar Bar#2 combines industry with some great beverage and snacks combinations​. It typically defines the golden age of Rijeka production with one room teeming with age old artefacts allowing for a stroll down memory lane. Look out for the homemade nibbles at the bar amongst other specials.QD‑2, Pod Kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/ (+385-) 091 739 31 99, www.bar-bar.eu/. P­X­J­W

Klub Bačva Another multipurpose place where visitors can enjoy sipping on coffee, as well as make the most of pleasant evening socialising with intimate live performances, poetry readings, rock concerts and other events. Very cosy type urban atmosphere!QC/D‑2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385-) 095 553 76 59. Open 07:00-24:00; Thu 07:00-01:00; Fri 07:00-02:00; Sat 07:00-03:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­ T­B­J­W

Champagne bar Pommery Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife.

Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the locals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be seen.QD‑2, Trg Republike 2a, tel. (+385-) 091 444 16 66. Open 07:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-04:00. N­P­X­ T­B­E­J­6­W

Mirage The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively.

A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, Is‑ tarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99. Open 07:00-02:00.

N­P­X­T­B­6­W

Galaxie bar Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open 07:00-24:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W

Pepe Rosso In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really!QD‑3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/(+385) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30-02:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-03:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­W

Hemingway bar Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktailsipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 32 44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W Karolina Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.

During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Pogon Trsat On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays.QR‑2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports Centre, tel. (+385-) 099 607 20 85. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-00:00. P­G­X­B­L Rakhia bar This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 511 43 36. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:0003:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W

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Nightlife

Celtic Cafe Bard Archives

Sabrage Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77, www.sabragebar.com. Open 07:00-02:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­W Teta Roža Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 099 480 60 30.

Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. N­P­X­T­ B­6­W The Beertija Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning!

It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83. Open 09:00-00:01; Thu 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. A­P­X­T­B­E­6­W Three Monkeys One of the newest slick bars in town that combines vintage designs with colour schemes. Known for quality coffee and crafty cocktails, the bar is open for early morning coffee with light jazz and bossa notes playing in the background, whilst as the sun sets, cocktails, gin and other beverages take over the menu. All in all, this is place to chill from morning till night! QFiumara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 755 27 32, www.facebook.com/threemonkeysri.

Open 06:00-24:00; Fri 06:00-02:00; Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-23:00.

Clubs Boa This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00; Sun 06:00-00:00.

N­P­X­B­E­J­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Teuta The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with a great choice of good music, characterized by its friendly atmosphere where people know how to relax. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays expect performances by the best the DJs, VJs, singers and musicians with a modern urban twist. It is split into two floors which with multimedia support are merged into one.QE‑2, Užarska 1. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:0004:00; closed Sun. Closed June - September. N­G­B

drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73. Open 06:00-01:00; Thu, Fri 06:00-04:00; Sat 18:0004:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­B­J­W

Tunel Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of alternative culture - laid back jazz, blues, funk, soul, rock and electronic music, you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here.

The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions and concerts.”QE‑1, Školjić 12. Open Mon 09:00-02:00; Tue, Wed 09:00-24:00; Thu 09:00-02:00; Fri 09:00-03:00; Sat 19:00-03:00; closed Sun. A­N­P­X­T­B­6

Pubs Celtic Caffe Bard A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­ T­B­J­6­W Phanas Pub A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-) 091 926 48 01. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-06:00. A­P­X­T­E­J­W

Three Monkeys Archives

Public Pub The perfect place to add to a pub crawl is the ‘Public Pub’, located in the heart of town with the terrace facing the popular Korzo Street and St. Barbara’s Square. The café and pub, dubbed all in one, is prrrrfect to start off your day with coffee and then end it with a refreshing beer, wine, cocktails or beverage of choice. Fridays and Saturdays is having live DJs playing festive tunes for all generations.

QTrg svete Barbare 5a, tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

N­P­T­E­J­6­W River pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Three Monkeys Archives

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Wine bars kod Zajca wine&coffee bar Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. N­P­ X­T­B­E­J­W

Vrbnik Tourist Board Archives

Sightseeing Essential Rijeka St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:00-18:00; Sat 06:00-12:00; Sun 06:00-12:00,14:00-18:00; closed Mon. The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD‑2, Ko‑ rzo.

The Corso (Korzo) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc, Rijeka (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours in English are available Thursdays (June 13 and 20, July 4 and 11) at 09:30, costing 35kn per person.QE‑3, Verdijeva bb, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14, www.hnk-zajc.hr.

Trsat Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city.

You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural Summer 2019

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Sightseeing beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1.

Museums City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.

QD‑1, Trg Riccarda Zanelle 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Admission 15/10kn.

Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum (Peek&Poke - Muzej djetinjstva) Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrange‑ ment. Admission 30kn. Unified ticket costing 40kn includes entry to Childhood Museum and Computer Museum.

Peek&Poke - Computer Museum Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 30kn. Unified ticket costing 40kn includes entry to Childhood Museum and Computer Museum.

State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document 34 Rijeka In Your Pocket

dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD‑1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, www.riarhiv.hr. During exhibitions open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:0020:00; Mon 09:00-16:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. Admission 20/15kn.

The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti/MMSU) Rijeka’s MMSU has taken on a whole new lease of life since moving into new premises in the Benčić complex, a group of former industrial buildings near the railway station.

The complex is currently being transformed into a new art-and-culture cluster and the MMSU is the first major institution to move in, occupying former factory halls that retain their elegant iron pillars and cool grey floors. The space is ideally suited to the museum’s busy programme of exhibitions, which will involve rotating selections of the MMSU’s huge permanent collection as well as individual and group shows by leading international artists. Whether you like the displays or not, it’s the perfect place to contemplate Rijeka’s ongoing transformation into a post-industrial city of art and leisure. QA‑1, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. 10kn.

What’s going on? facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov pro‑ laz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com.

Open 09:00-20:00. Admission 10/5kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Write to glagoljica@svkri.hr to make an appointment to view – it’s well worth it. QC‑2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, www. svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 14:00 with prior ar‑ rangement. Admission 20 kn.

Galleries Bruketa 2 The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Kortil An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.

QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Mali salon A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD‑2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 14:00-21:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

Principij Gallery Exhibition space of Rijeka Photo Club.QE‑2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Croatian facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc

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Sightseeing

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

Churches The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hardearned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucin‑ ske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.

It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee – members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s 36 Rijeka In Your Pocket

is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00.QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. Open 07:30 - 12:30.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv.

Sebastijana) Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated.

Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe!

The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka Marulića bb.

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00-13:00.

Fountains Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains.

Before the city had a water system, they made use of the many springs which have their source in the very centre.

Some of these being underground, public washing facilities and drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing places where the inhabitants would gather and catch up with the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone since the building of the modern water system, but in more recent years decorative fountains have been built that give the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat.

The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.

Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.

The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova.

Historical areas Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.)

Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk – if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.QE‑1, Kalvarija.

Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.)

Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

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Sightseeing The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv.

Križ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).

Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ.

The Old City (Stari grad) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

Industrial Rijeka It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture.

The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards – see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: 38 Rijeka In Your Pocket

there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses. It is currently undergoing construction works, the goal being its conversion into a new exhibit of Rijeka’s City Museum.QA‑1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposrijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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ing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s daughter.

QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Landmarks Archeological Park – the Tarsatica Principia The newly renovated Archaeological Park has opened in 2014 in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

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its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD‑2, Ul.Stara vrata 3.

City Market (Velika tržnica) Together with the nearby National Theatre and its park, the Modello Palace and numerous residential, commercial and industrial buildings, the City Market forms a super urban architectural complex. At its core are beautiful art nouveau market halls, especially the lively fish market, which is in an imposing Liberty style building with charming mouldings by famous Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso of the poor crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate.

Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high with fresh local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of the world. The market is a good place for speciality delicatessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food takeaways and inexpensive konobas for a quick and authentic lunch – see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few pleasant cafés with leafy terraces.QE‑3, Verdieva.

Hurricane! (Parobrod Uragan) Uragan is the name of the big old ship that looms at Molo Longo, the long breakwater that runs parallel to Rijeka’s famous Riva. She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she Summer 2019

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Sightseeing was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as ‘acting’ in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair in 2005, and she was given a permanent berth here in Molo Longo in 2014.

Islamic Center Rijeka The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high.

Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, www. medzlis-rijeka.org.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva.

Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume.

War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.

During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour 40 Rijeka In Your Pocket

was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year.

War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more. Most recent addition, in terms of shipping, is the new container terminal, finished only this year. Costing just over €110m, this terminal is expected to provide the city with much added business. QD‑3.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance – many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine.

The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned – you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” – “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café.

The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.

QF‑1/2, E‑2.

Sušak - Pećine The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Rijeka view from Trsat, shutterstock.com

two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during AustroHungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).

Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana BrlićMažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.

In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S‑3/4.

The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu.QE‑2, Užarska. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy - look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.

Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was established. A planetarium hall was installed into an already existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy.

During summer, every Wednesday at 20:00 there is a special film screening for foreign tourists in English language and stargazing with the telescope in observatory every Saturday at 22:00 (depends on the weather). For detailed opening times and schedule of planetarium shows and observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00 or check schedule here. More information and photos can be found on Facebook Fan Page Astronomski centar Rijeka, so foreign and domestic tourists can send messages, comment and like as well.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www. astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Admission 20/10 kn.

The Rijeka Tunnel Military turmoil leading up to World War II saw the construction of fortifications, bunkers and tunnels in Rijeka.

Now, the first military tunnel has opened for visitors with the entrance next to the Cathedral of St. Vitus and it stretches below the Old Town to the Dolac Primary School.

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Sightseeing The 330-m long tunnel still has some original markings and was even used in the Homeland War as a shelter.QO‑ pen 10:00-20:00.

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića.

The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg.

Palaces The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1.

The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija – yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.

While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.

The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary – look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC‑2, Riva.

The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too – raised above 42 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Modello Building (Palača Modello) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca.

The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices.

Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

The Palazzo (Palača komuna) This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

Parks The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.QV‑2, Trsat.

The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca.

The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.

Religious collections The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-) 091 918 78 52. Open by prior arrangement. Ad‑ mission free.

The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.

The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings (Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com.hr/. Open 06:30-20:00. Admission free.

The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia – no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com. Open 08:0011:30,14:00-17:00. Admission free.

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages.

Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.

The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

Croatian business conversations This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoistwu weiprinciple (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literallymeans ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to,indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet.

A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to itany time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam. Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo. So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid 44 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

Croatian leisure talk Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’. Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual.

But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to https://travelhonestly. com/croatian-cafe-culture.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing. If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success. When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound farfetched, but pomalo is the Croatian time-travel machine.

Croatian weather talk Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified. Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude. And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain. If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu.

Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh. Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

Most important ‘empty’ talk We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions. But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners.

Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk.

So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

By Andrea Pisac Summer 2019

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Kvarner Islands Cres The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today's capital of the island. The gothic architecture you'll find here owes much to the island's long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town's main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it's largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that's an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There's a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don't have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village's setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of LoĹĄinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It's fenced off since it ensures the islanders' supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists' colony. You'll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you're lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

Cres Tourist Board QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, www.tzg-cres. hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00.

46 Rijeka In Your Pocket

City of Krk Tourist Board Archives

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Kvarner Krk So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

Krk Tourist Information Center QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, www.tz-krk.hr. Open 08:00-21:00; Thu, Sat, Sun 08:00-15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Septem‑ ber Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Lošinj You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and – like Susak – carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.

Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones.

The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, www. visitlosinj.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00.

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Kvarner Rab Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children.

And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone.

Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through

scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.

Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.

The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

Rab Tourist Board QTrg Municipium Arba 8, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, www.rab-visit.com. Open 08:00-21:00.

Photo by Mile Franjić

48 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner Opatija Riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradifacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

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Kvarner

Lovran Tourist Board Archives

tion may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Ičići Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croatia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a wonder for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes to help wind down.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped 50 Rijeka In Your Pocket

around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas – many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

Opatija Tourist Information Center QMaršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, www.visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry).

Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 35/20kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating.

Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

Crikvenica Tourist Information Center QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, www. rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00-20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Novi Vinodolski This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.

Primorje Crikvenica Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.

Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expensive – as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information Center QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, www. tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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National Park North Velebit Archives

Weekend Getaways Explore Surroundings and escape the crowds

Weekend Getaways Brseč A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.

Museum of Apoxyomenos The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos.

The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use of mirrors. This year the museum earned a Special Commendation in the European Museum of the Year Awards (EMYA). EMYA is dedicated to promoting excellence in innovation and public quality in museum practice, encouraging networking and the exchange of ideas and sustainable best practices within the sector.QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www. muzejapoksiomena.hr. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 115/40 kn. J Nature Park Mount Učka The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range.

Qwww.pp-ucka.hr.

Risnjak National Park Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak National Park.

This range of mountains, from which can be viewed the Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the somewhat inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature of 12.60 in July. The park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance.

The Information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice – the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through the ‘valley of the butterflies’. QBijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, www.np-risnjak.hr.

Thalassotherapia Opatija Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer continues to expand, the center now includes the application of contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or alleviate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, www.thalassotherapiaopatija.com. Polyclinic Open 08:00 - 15:00; closed Sun, Sat. Wellness Open 09:00 - 21:00. A The islet of Košljun The search for tranquillity stops right here at the islet of Košljun, located 750 meters from Punat at the Krk island.

The miniature island takes about 1- 2 hours to see and is best known for the Franciscan monastery which thrives till this day. A Benedictine abbey was built there in the 11th century and was then extended and turned into a monastery in the 15th century. The Benedictines presented Košljun under the motto: ‘Pray and work’ which is visible on the front door of the monastery, while the Franciscan’s saluted with ‘Peace and Good’ on the way out – written, of course, in the ancient Croatian ‘Glagolitic script!’

Franciscan monks still live and reside there and the islet has a museum with an ethnographic collection containing numerous items produced by Krk fishermen and farmers, as well as local folk costumes. The library has around 30,000 books which includes some world rarities. Getting to the island is only via organized boat tours and once there, take out your treasure maps and begin the search for the six chapels around the island…

The Memorial Centre Lipa Remembers (Memorijalni centar Lipa pamti) In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ opened its doors to the public for the very first time. Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children.

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Weekend Getaways

Thalassotherapija Opatija Archives

The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most residential and commercial buildings. By the end of World War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers with its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never forgetting the past. The Centre also signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehistory to the present day. An exhibition on memorial tourism, On the Roads of Revolution, can be seen on display until August 30th.QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, www.lipapamti.ppmhp.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Tue. (10/5 kn).

The Northern Velebit National Park Huge, seemingly bare masses of rock full of crevices, impenetrable forests, glades large and small, grassy karst valleys, chasms, sinkholes, ice caves, ponds and limestone 54 Rijeka In Your Pocket

pavements... The Northern Velebit is a real mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats which are home to many plant, animal and fungus species, a natural wealth which has only just begun to be discovered. It is exactly this diversity of karstic forms, plant and animal life and natural landscapes which was the reason why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for anyone who prefers an active holiday and spending time in pristine nature with the sense of a primordial wilderness. Biking, hiking, photography… the choice is yours. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Normally it is said that people conquer mountains, but the Velebit is a mountain range that conquers the hearts of its visitors.

Zavižan and Alan are areas undergoing continuous change with open grassy spaces, thick green forests and huge limestone boulders, all surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora, the diversity of its plant communities. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, is fascinating for its numerous ruins of old shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in the mountains in times past, and are monuments of this region’s cultural heritage. The Premužić Trail takes you to the very tips of the Velebit range and is amazing both for the feat of engineering it represents and for the diversity of the karst formations it passes through.QKrasno 96, Kras‑ no, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.

Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction).Qwww.tz-skrad.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Antiques Mali neboder Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciot‑ tina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, www.antikvarijat-malineboder.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A Triton Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.

QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, www.tritonantikviteti.com/.

Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

nirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

Bookshops Antikvarijat Ex-Libris Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices.QD‑2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, www.ri-exlibris.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

Art galleries

Ribook Specialised in online sales. QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15 55, www.superknjizara.hr. Open 08:0020:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

Laval Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.

QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33. Open 09:30 - 13:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

VBZ A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here!QC‑2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 15, www. vbz.hr. Open 07:30-20:30; Sat 07:30-17:00; closed Sun. A

Mala galerija In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souve-

Verbum Specialising in religious themes.QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, www.verbum.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July 15 - August 15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Mali Neboder Archives

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Shopping Delicatessen

Gifts & Souvenirs

Deliiicije Deliiicije is a wonderland for gourmands where you can find the most original and unique edible souvenirs such as chocolate with lavender, white-wine liqueurs and whole black truffles.QE‑2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, www.deliiicije.com. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. A

Croatia in a Box A souvenir shop with a difference, Croatia in a Box started out with the idea of producing really beautiful gift boxes - decorated with Croatian motifs such as Glagolitic letters, embroidery symbols, gingerbread hearts – and providing the items to fill them with. Lining the shelves is a carefully curated selection of Croatian-designed jewelry, interiordesign items, accessories (check out the bags and purses

by Mura Pehnec) and boutique rakijas and wines. You can of course buy individual items without bothering with the box, but the fact that the packaging is part of the concept certainly makes present-buying a lot more fun.QGrivica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 344 54 45, www.croatiainabox. com/hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. A­J

Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 30 00, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-14:00; Sun 07:00-12:00; Mon 08:00-13:00.

Kraš Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms.QE‑2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 07:00-20:00; closed Sun. A Kušaonica Frajona Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.

Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. A Piko A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, www. pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30-:00; Sat 06:00-14:00; Sun 07:00-12:00. A Pip Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 08:0013:00; closed Sun. A Primorsko-goranska Kašetica The aim of this mini-exhibition and shop on an Old-Town corner is to popularize local food and drink products, especially honey. The kašetica’s primary drawback is that its opening times are ambiguous, and there’s no guarantee that it will be open when you happen to come strolling by. Luckily the same building is shared by the (much more reliable) Primorska Konoba, a local-themed tavern which broadly adheres to the same trad-food agenda and is a great place for a break.QKrojačka 1, tel. (+385-) 099 334 93 39. Open 09:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. Vinoteka 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE‑3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24, www.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00-14:00; Sun 08:00-13:00. A 56 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Filatelija Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.

QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, www. filatelija-rijeka.hr/. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. N Šta da?

The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A

Made in Croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which exists for more than 40 years. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel. (+385-51) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. A BuRa Design Store For the cutting edge of Croatian couture this is arguably one of the best addresses in the country, with racks of unique and edgy clothing reinforced by a fascinating selection of jewelry and accessories. Standouts include brooches by Eva Lumezi, luminous glass jewelry by Vitrum in Fabula, and the enigmatic, alluring, matt-black bags and necklaces made from recycled rubber by the Zagreb-based design team Gooma. Bura means “storm” in Croatian and anyone interested in contemporary style will be blown away by this stuff. QMatije Gupca 13b, tel. (+385-51) 56 49 40. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A­J rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Šta da? Archives

Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka Polića Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 42 20 96, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:0021:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Mari Cro design studio If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.

QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A

Shopping centres & Malls Ri Department Store This department store first opened in 1974 with the intention of connecting a series of historical buildings on Korzo and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in the city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reaction. Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, unfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

fortunately isn’t well kept which is obvious to every visitor.

QD‑2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16, www.robnakucari. hr/trgovine. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. J Tower Center This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much every Croatian and international high-street brand you’ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multiscreen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination for the locals – especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few places in town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop.QS‑3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, www.tower-center-rijeka. hr. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

ZTC Rijeka This is Rijeka’s latest shopping mall. A couple of kilometres out of the city on the main coast road towards Opatija and the border with Slovenia. Opened in 2012 it features all the major shopping names in clothes, sporting goods, telecommunications, electrical goods, pharmacy, an exchange office and ATMs, plus two cafes, a restaurant and a supermarket. Most facilities are open from 09:00 to 21:00. There’s free Wi-Fi, and underground car park with invalid access. In fact everything you need in one place.

QM‑2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztcshopping.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. W Summer 2019

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Arrival & Getting Around

Arriving By boat An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You're right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

Jadroagent QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, www. travel.jadroagent.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for 58 Rijeka In Your Pocket

local catamarans, local ferries as well as international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr.

Open 08:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00.

Losinia Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, www. losinia.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Wed & Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun. Rapska plovidba Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check the sailing schedule here.QHrvatskih branitelja domov‑ inskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, www. rapska-plovidba.hr.

BuRa Design Store Archives rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 66 06 60/(+385-) 060 30 20 10, www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna.

Arriving By car From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.

From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka.

From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.

From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.

Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

Arriving By plane

Rijeka 2020 Archives

Arriving By bus Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; tel. 060 88 86 66 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info.

Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online http://www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna and get 5% discount. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 56 49 04 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00.

Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or check Arrival & Getting Around for other taxi companies. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Olivari buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

Rijeka Airport Rijeka Airport.QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+38551) 84 20 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr.

Open 08:00-18:00.

Arriving By train Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.

Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website has a good English page featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 04. There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en Summer 2019

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Arrival & Getting Around route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day.

Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Around for other cab companies).

Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 13 04, www.hzpp.hr.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty QC‑2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46 92 32, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:0012:00. A Express rent QD‑3, Riva boduli 7/d, tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42/(+385-) 098 910 76 96, www.expressrentcroatia.com. Open 08:00-20:00. A Hertz QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A OTS QN‑2, Franje Čandeka 23, tel. (+385-51) 21 51 60/ (+385-) 099 352 06 46, www.rentacar-rijeka.com/.

Open 07:30-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. A

Harbourmasters office Lučka kapetanija QD‑3, Senjsko pristanište 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 40 13, www.mmpi.hr. Open 07:00-15:00.

Parking Street parking/SMS Parking Different zones have different max waiting times – check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are 4 - 10 kunas per hour.

Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

Public transport Autotrolej The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets 60 Rijeka In Your Pocket

bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, www.autotrolej.hr.

Taxi Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.

There are taxi ranks outside the main train station and the coach station (also handy for the ferry). Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage.

Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

Auto taxi Rijeka QN‑1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 099 700 30 43.

Cammeo QR‑3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 31 33 13, www. taxi-cammeo.hr.

Kvarner taxi Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

Towed away If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street A. K. Miošića – it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 07:00 - 21:15, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.

Travel agencies Jadrotours QC‑2, Dolac 9b, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 71, www.jadrotours. hr. Open 08:30-18:00; Fri 08:30-16:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A Solen QF‑2, Strossmayerova 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 15 87, www. solen.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. A Travelana QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 8/II, tel. (+385-51) 32 15 43, www. travelana.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. A

Tourist Information Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the AdriaticQĆikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+385-51) 62 88 88, www.kvarner.hr. Open 08:00-20:00.

Tourist Information Center Rijeka Tourist Information Centre.QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:0020:00; Sun 08:00-14:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

City Basics Customs

Safety

There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Visas

Electricity

Croatian Visa Policies are fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

When things go wrong

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Toilets Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

national holidays 2019 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 21 Easter April 22 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 20 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day Summer 2019

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Maps & Street Register Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2

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Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3

Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1

Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1

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Maps & Street Register Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2

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Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

Veslarska Viktora cara Emina Vinka Benca Viškovo Vodovodna Vrlije Vukovarska Wenzelova Zadarska Zagrebačka Zametska Zanonova Zaobilaznica Zvonimirova Žabica Žrtava fašizma

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