Rijeka In Your Pocket 2022

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Rijeka Summer 2022

Summer in the city

There is plenty to celebrate in Rijeka this summer

Out and about

Explore the wider region through delicious food and intrepid exploring

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Contents ON THE COVER

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Best Instagram Spots in Rijeka

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What’s On

5

Sightseeing

8

Restaurants

14

Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka

15

Coffee & Cakes

20

Hanging out

21

Shopping

22

Weekend Getaways

23

Arrival & Getting Around

36 37

Street index

Maps City centre map City map

38 40

As the winter winds give way to the, well, warmer winds of spring and summer, Rijeka’s renaissance shows no sign of abating. It has been a whirlwind few years for Croatia’s biggest port, and development across town has dragged beauty and energy out of previously neglected facades. Sure, the whole pandemic thing threw a massive spanner into the works, but we’re hardy folks here, and things continue to move forward as we look towards the summer of 2022. Without wanting to co-opt a phrase from previous generations, Rijeka is happening, man. Yeah, we’ll see ourselves out…

Food is at the centre of our attention in this issue, although it is probably fair to say that food is at the centre of our attention all day long. When it tastes this good, how could it not be? Jump straight to our special food feature and get to know the best of the best when it comes to local delicacies before heading to the nearest tavern or restaurant to eat your body weight in magnificence. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Elsewhere, Rijeka’s classic combination of elegant architecture and bubbling creativity remains as alive as ever, with ideas the main subject of conversation in bars and cafes in town. 2022 is shaping up to be a big year for Rijeka, and we hope you enjoy the ride. As always, we appreciate any and all feedback, be it through email, social media, carrier pigeon, or given at half-speed mid-food coma. We weren’t joking with that ‘body weight’ comment, by the way… facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

This year’s magnificent cover was made in collaboration with Marko Babić, otherwise known as Artplakata. What is Artplakata? A tremendously creative love letter to the neglected aspects of daily life in our cities, that’s what. Artplakata aims to breathe new life into ignored pieces of architecture and the rest through art, and we’re happy to say that Artplakata more than succeeds.

Photo: Marko Babić

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Paška 37, Zagreb, Croatia croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Design MOONTAGE, Ivana Mihoković Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Marko Babić, Artplakata Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Rijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

Summer 2022

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Best Instagram Spots in Rijeka 1.Blue Forest Mural on Matija V. Flacius Square Just off Korzo, Rijeka’s main pedestrian zone, right beside the popular Samovar bar, is a place tucked away from the city’s hustle and bustle that provides a good relaxation and meditation stop. Sit on a bench in front of the Blue forest, one of Rijeka’s most Instagrammable murals, and pose for the photo in the company of the live plants.

2.Principia Archeological Park The Archaeological Park which opened in the Old Town in 2014, comprises a complex of Roman military buildings from the 3rd century.

This amazing place gives us an insight into the ancient history of the city with its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica that presents a jewel of the Roman architecture. Principia is a perfect site for various city events and the ideal background of an Instagram photo!

3. Fish Market The Fish Market is definitely the best part of Rijeka's Farmers' market. This elegant architectural piece that follows the early 20th century Art Nouveau style, is made of bricks with decorative stone elements on the facade which shows the life of sea creatures. You will be smitten by an impressive interior with wooden ceiling and crossbars, sculpted decorations on walls and a gallery that guarantees the best shots of the lively market atmosphere happening downstairs.

4.Casa Veneziana – House Whitehead Owing to its decoration and the specific features of the facade, the house is often called Casa Veneziana. It was built in 1886 according to the design of an Italian architect, Giacomo Zammati. The contractor was a famous English industrial and ship engineer Robert Whithead who developed the first effective self-propelled naval torpedo. The buiding is a combination of red brick and stone, a beautiful backdrop for the memorable pic.

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5. Murals on Križanićeva Street Following the River of Murals you will find yourself on colourful Križanićeva Street, where somenew artworks have been created by regional street artists. In 2020, Rijeka was the European Capital of Culture and it was meant to be the year of celebration. This all changed within a few weeks because of pandemic measures.

Many cultural programs were cancelled but some of the artists continued, regardless. Here you will see the crown of their work!

Rijeka In Your Pocket

6. Kantrida Pools Kantrida Pools is a new sports and urban complex located right on the waterfront which makes it a very popular spot with the Instagrammers. The attractive modern complex was designed by the architectureStudio Zoppini andcomprises five pools, including two of Olympic specifications. Looking for a place to unwind and relax in a perfect setting with lots for water surrounding you? You got it!

7. Vidikovac Reservoir Belvedere – great view over Kvarner Vidikovac Reservoir is a monumental building of water-communal architecture built in a historic style.Constructed in 1914, it has a volume of 1,500 cubic meters and still supplies water to Rijeka’s suburbs. The Belvedere at the top provides amazing views of the Delta and Kvarner Bay. They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Well, there is certaily a lot of beauty to ‘behold‘ from this place!

8. The Boat. by Vjekoslav Vojo Radoičić Vojo Radoičić was a Croatian painter, sculptor, printmaker and stage designer who never veered from his recognizable artistic style which is colorful and almost childlike in nature.

He worked and lived in Vienna, London and Zagreb but spent most of his time in Rijeka. Vojo's installation of the Boat on the pavement, together with an image on the front of the building, represents a uniquesculpture-painting composition with cheerful colors to brighten everyone’s mood.

9 . The Fort of the Holy Cross Perched above Rijeka, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times.

There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium. Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail, which offers spectacular views over Rijeka and Kvarner, was constructed.

This will entice you to keep your eyes peeled for the next detail!

10. River of Murals In Rijeka one cannot fail to notice the explosion of street art adding colour and different perspectives to the urban environment of the city.

Vodovodna and Ružićeva streets,which were long neglected, have now been transformed into a street art gallery, enriched with new murals almost every year. Rijeka means River and the River of Murals is symbolic of the explosion of Art, Colour and Emotions. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Tisja Kljaković Art

14.07 - 04.09 » Tisja Kljaković Braić: Monument to a Living Person' Tisja Kljaković Braić has been present on the art scene for the past two decades.

This prolific artist - a painter,a writer and anillustrator caught everyone’s attention five years ago when she started posting extremely witty caricatures of marital life on Facebook. In the meantime, she has published two collections of illustrations and had an extremely successful exhibition at the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery in Zagreb in 2021.

Now sheis presenting her work to Rijeka’s audience! QF‑2, Kortil, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 239 14 04.

What’s On Enrich your calendar, see the exhibitions, concerts, and special events in and around town facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Summer 2022

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Little Prince, RTL Archive

What’s On

25.03 - 15.09 » Little Prince: Journey A charming exhibition running from the end of May to the middle of September, Little Prince: Journey takes a deep dive into the most universal story ever told. Heady words, we’re sure you’ll agree, but the proof is in the pudding; The Little Prince remains one of the best-selling and most translated books ever published. This exhibition does things a little differently, eschewing standard ways of displaying the story in favour of creating an immersive world that will appeal to visitors young and old alike. This is a participatory exhibition of innovative interpretations and more, perfect for visitors of all ages and all curiosities. The exhibition is held at Rijeka’s Exportdrvo building, creating an extra layer to the story that links it to our beautiful city and beyond. A fabulous exhibition that does justice to this most famous tale. QExportdrvo, Delta, Grobnička riva b.b.

25.05 - 09.10 » Tales of the Blue Horizon – Jugolinija – 75 Years In many ways, the development of Croatia has always been defined by its relationship to the sea. This is true from top to bottom, but Rijeka’s relationship with the waters goes a little deeper. The city developed around the port, and the vast blue has done more than most to make Rijeka the city it is today. The famous old Jugolinija shipping company (renamed Croatia Line in 1992) is very much a part of that story, and this fascinating exhibition looks back at 75 years of fun, trade, travel and discovery. From humble beginnings to the massive vessels of today, 75 Years of Jugolinija is a love letter from the seas to Rijeka, highlighting the highs and lows of a cornerstone of modern Rijeka. Jugolinija was more than a shipping company; it was the heart and soul of Rijeka. If you want to understand Rijeka as it is today, this exhibition is an absolute must. QD‑1, The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78, www.ppmhp.hr/en/.

04.06 - 02.09 » Open Air Theatre Opatija Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip 6

Rijeka In Your Pocket

musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers such as Tom Jones (July 18), Jerry Ricks Blues Fest (July 27) and Sabaton (August 19) . Check the whole programme online.Qwww.festivalopatija.hr.

06.06 - 20.09 » Salvador Dalí You can’t beat a Salvador Dali exhibition, so be sure to make a beeline for the Juraj Šporer Gallery in Opatija this summer. What to expect? Creative genius, obviously, along with around a hundred lithographs, copper engraving and other graphic works from the icon. QThe Juraj Šporer Art Pavil‑ lion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 22 25.

07.06 - 12.06 » Fiumanka Rijeka anticipates and traditionally ‘lives’for this great sailing event. Over the course of a few days, the port turns into a marina filled with boats of all shapes and sizes, and every year it is visited by increasing numbers of lovers of the sea and sail.The finalregatta is certainly the main event- the Great Fiumanka, and of course, for those who prefer to sail from the comfort of their home, Virtual Fiumanka is also a great option. Qwww. fiumanka.eu.

09.06 - 11.06 » Porto Etno Porto Etno is well-known equally for its musical and gastronomic program, displaying its rich cultural diversity of different ethnic minorities living in Rijeka and its surrounding area.

This year, 15 minority representatives will introduce us to their national specialties as well as their traditional folklore performances. We’ll see Amira Medunjanin (Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Ahmet Baran (Turkey), among others,performing with the support of the Porto Etno Orchestra. QRiječka rezolucija Square. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

What’s What’s On On 09.06 - 01.07 » Mirko Ilić From The History of Human Stupidity - Design History of the World First things first; what a tremendous name for an exhibition.

If that isn’t enough to entice you, we don’t know what to say. Prominent graphic designer Mirko Ilić presents the best of the best here, a fabulous exhibition of newspaper covers, posters and illustrations that shine an all-too-bright light on the wacky world around us. Fantastic stuff. QD‑2, Filodram‑ matica Bookshop Caffe, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96.

15.06 » St Vitus’ Days On St. Vitus’ Days held in the mid-June, Rijeka celebrates its patron saint by hosting many cultural, entertainment and sports events. Even in the 15th century this was already a significant holiday in this region. An impressive procession on 15 June, St. Vitus’ holiday, is definitely the highlight of religious manifestations. A special reception for children named after the patron saint is also organized.

17.06 » Feast of Tuna Ahoy mateys, tender tune to tickle your taste buds! Indeed, tuna lovers should venture to the serene village of Jadranovo to taste the various delicious dishes made from tuna. Relax and enjoy the scents, colors and sounds of nature all around beautiful nature. With music and entertainment provided, this event reminds us of the rich and valuable tradition of tuna fishing in Jadranovo. Qwww.rivieracrikvenica.com

18.06 » International Rijeka Carnival Parade This spectacular event is what many of the locals prepare for the entire year; wait till you see the traditional costumes worn by regulars as they are outrageously extravagant. Besides the exhibitions, masquerades, concerts, sports events, dandy rituals and celebrations; the highlights are undoubtedly the Children’s Carnival parade and the pinnacle being the International Parade through the city centre where an expected 10,000 masked participants and over one-hundred delightfully decorated floats from Croatia and dozens of other countries from all over the world, parade in style. This joining of tradition and custom is a sign of unity and the march in the city centre attracts over 100,000 people from just about everywhere.

Nowhere in the world will you be able to experience such a distinctive blend of a European civic carnival,based on the historical and cultural customs with elements of folklore and mythology, as in Rijeka. The International Carnival Parade is the jewel in the crown of carnival festivities in Kvarner and beyond. These definitely need to be experienced once in a lifetime! QD‑2, Korzo, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36, www.rijecki-karneval.hr/.

27.06 - 09.07 » Tokyo Before/After In cooperation with the Embassy of Japan, a travelling exhibition 'Tokyo Before/After' is coming to Kortil Gallery this June.

The exhibition features a selection of approximately 80 works, by photographers some of whom had captured images of Tokyo in the 1930s and 40s, and which are now presented in juxtaposition with photos taken after 2010. This specific imagery facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

serves to encourage a deeper understanding of Tokyo and its development as a vast city with many different faces. QF‑2, Kortil, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 239 14 04.

01.07 - 03.07 » The 22nd Liburnia Jazz Festival Three nights of top quality jazz in the open air. The festival begins with Bërbili/Slavuj: Dina e Mel, Miroslav Tadić, Yvette Holzwarth (July 1) and closes with Croatian singer Je Veux - Željka Veverec (July 3). Sandwiched inbetween will be China Moses and Exploding Pig (July 2).Qwww. liburniajazz.hr.

08.07 - 03.10 » Hana Miletić: Pieces A gorgeous solo exhibition showcasing the works of Internationally-acclaimed Croatian artist Hana Miletić. Pieces is an absolute must for art lovers of all shapes and sizes. The most recent works from the fertile mind of Miletić will be on show, with a focus on creating a dialogue between the exhibition space and its context. Expect artistic brilliance and then some. QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Mu‑ seum, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11.

16.07 - 18.08 » Osor Musical Evenings Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for the Osor Musical Evenings.Qwww.osorfestival.eu.

16.07 - 17.07 » (Sr)etno Selce - Ethno Festival The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots and are proud to present their cultural heritage through authentic products and dishes, national dances and old costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the energy, the past!Qwww. rivieracrikvenica.com.

22.07 - 23.07 » CrikvArt Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face! CrikvenicaQwww. rivieracrikvenica.com.

19.08 » Adriatica Folk Fest Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place.

Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments will perform. CrikvenicaQwww.adriatica-folk-fest.com.

27.08 - 04.09 » Fishermen's Week Everything is fishy here, and on a positive note! Started in 1966, a plethora of exhibitions, workshops, concerts, folk dances, sporting competitions and culinary festivities where locals prepare traditional fish dishes never cease to amaze.

CrikvenicaQwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

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Sightseeing Essential Rijeka St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more.

By the main entrance, you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:00-18:00; Sat 06:00-12:00; Sun 06:00-12:00, 14:00-18:00; closed Mon. The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city.

A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a newfangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD‑2, Korzo.

The Corso (Korzo) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo.

The Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc, Rijeka (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka 8

Rijeka In Your Pocket

was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia.QE‑3, Verdijeva bb, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14, www.hnk-zajc.hr.

Trsat Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city.

You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2., B direction, Trsat.QS‑1. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

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Sightseeing Unique Sightseeing It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture.

The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards – see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire in 1785, the building was rebuilt and redecorated in late

The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained

Torpedo, Rijeka City Museum Archives

a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s M‑3,Pocket Jože Vlahovića 19. daughter. rijeka.inyourpocket.com 10 Rijeka InQ Your

Sightseeing Baroque and Rococo style, in order to serve as the administration building of a lucrative business. Interiors are decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. Luscious frescoes feature Arcadian landscapes, scenes from myth and legend, and some unexpectedly sensual scenes of bathing goddesses. Subsequently dubbed the “Sugar Palace”, the building did not retain this finery for long.

The sugar refinery became a tobacco factory, subsequently expanding to become a major industrial site (known as the Benčić Complex) that produced tractors and other machinery. Beginning in 2014 a major renovation project set about transforming the Benčić Complex into a new cultural hub comprising contemporary art museum, city library and a new “Children’s House” containing resources for children and parents.

The Sugar Palace was earmarked as the new site of the city museum’s permanent display, and the building’s murals and stucco work were painstakingly restored.

Now home to a fabulous display of municipal history, the Sugar Palace was reopened in autumn 2020.QA‑1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Off the Beaten Track Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.)

Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk – if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.

QE‑1, Kalvarija. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Islamic Center Rijeka The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed.

The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high. Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, www.medzlis-rijeka.org.

Kozala Cemetery What a great place to spend eternity! The oldest cemetery in Rijeka and one of city landmarks, Kozala is known for its unique architecture, lush greenery, picturesque cypresses, and cats which have become permanent residents. Due to its stylistic features and beautiful sculptures by notable artists, Kozala is now a member of Association of Significant Cemeteries of Europe (ASCE) and is included on the map of the European Cemeteries Route. Jewish section of the cemetery must not be missed. QUlica Petra Kobeka 13.

Ružić Villa - The library and the Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić collection The neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore was the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.

QQ/S‑3/4, Pećine 5, tel. (+385-) 91 512 72 54.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.

Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was established. A planetarium hall was installed into an already existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka Summer 2022

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Sightseeing now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy.

For detailed opening times and schedule of planetarium shows and observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00 or check schedule here.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www.rijekasport.hr/en/venues/astronomicalcentre-rijeka/. Admission 20/10 kn.

toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.

Landmarks

City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) Part of the ongoing redevelopment of the Benčić complex, the permanent collection of the Rijeka City Museum proudly opened its doors in November 2020. It is exactly the kind of display the city needed, revealing the city’s character as well as telling you the key historical dates. Housed in the so-called “Sugar Palace”, the palatial eighteenth-century headquarters of the Rijeka sugar refinery, it certainly looks and feels like a major institution, with an imposing marble staircase leading up from the ticket desk to the display rooms. Beautifully restored interiors are on display on the second floor, with brightly coloured frescoes displaying mythical landscapes filled with frolicking sprites and nymphs.

Putting in an early appearance in the main history exhibition is Karl VI, the Habsburg emperor who declared Rijeka a free royal port in 1719 and set it on its way to becoming a great harbour city. Rather than offering a date-by-date account of the city’s development from here onwards, however, the museum runs through the main themes of Rijeka’s life; notably as a major shipbuilding centre, and an exit point for nineteenth-century East-European emigrants who left in their thousands for the New World, One room is devoted to the story of the torpedo, conceived by local naval officer Blaž Lupis and English engineer Robert Whitehead, and tested for the first time by Whitehead in 1866. A section on Rijeka’s contribution to popular culture gives visitors the chance to listen to iconic, scene-defining artists such as legendary crooner Ivo Robić, punk firebrands Paraf and new-wave synth-pop duo Denis i Denis. There are a few gaps in the city’s story, but all in all it’s a beautifully conceived collection, and if you really want to understand the city on the Kvarner, then come here first.

QD‑1, Krešimirova 28, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www. muzej-rijeka.hr. Open 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 60/30kn. J

Hurricane! (Parobrod Uragan) Uragan is the name of the big old ship that looms at Molo Longo, the long breakwater that runs parallel to Rijeka’s famous Riva. She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as ‘acting’ in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair in 2005, and she was given a permanent berth here in Molo Longo in 2014.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance – many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine.

The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned – you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” – “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café.

The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.

QF‑1/2, E‑2.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the 12 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Museums

JGL Pharmacy Museum Established by the local pharmaceutical firm JGL, who have a production plant just outside the city, Rijeka’s new pharmacy museum offers an entertaining and educative introduction to the world of medicines and their manufacture. Far more than just a showcase for jgl’s own activities, the educative and entertaining museum demonstrates just what can be achieved through thoughtful design and engaging presentation.

Stages in the development of pharmacology from Hippocrates through Paracelsus are illustrated on a central circular panel. Lurking inside the circle is a recreation rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

of a nineteenth-century apothecary (based largely on the real-life pharmacy that once served customers at Rijeka’s railway station), its shelves lined with Latinlabelled remedies in glass and ceramic pots. We also get to see colourful posters advertising Alga, the local firm founded in 1926 to develop treatments made from seaweed (it was based in Susak, now an integral part of Rijeka but at that time a separate city on the Yugoslav side of the border). As a small, specialized collection that succeeds in shedding light on the city’s social history, the JGL Pharmacy Museum will be well worth your visit.QE‑2, Užarska 11, tel. (+385-51) 25 71 03, www.muzej-farmacije.jgl.hr. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. June 15 - August 31 Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00 - 21:00. Admission 30/15kn. A­J Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum (Peek&Poke - Muzej djetinjstva) Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Sun only by prior phone arrangement. Admission 30kn, includes entry to Childhood Museum and Computer Museum. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Peek&Poke - Computer Museum Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Sun only by prior phone arrangement. Admission 30kn, includes entry to Child‑ hood Museum and Computer Museum.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors.

Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and Summer 2022

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Sightseeing

Istražite povijeSSSt farmacije.

Explore the HISSStory of pharmacy.

www.muzej-farmacije.jgl.hr culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in prehistorical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections.

For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Mon 09:00-16:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. Ad‑ mission 20/15kn.

The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti/MMSU) Rijeka’s MMSU has taken on a whole new lease of life since moving into new premises in the Benčić complex, a group of former industrial buildings near the railway station. The complex is currently being transformed into a new art-and-culture cluster and the MMSU is the first major institution to move in, occupying former factory halls that retain their elegant iron pillars and cool grey floors. The space is ideally suited to the museum’s busy programme of ex14 Rijeka In Your Pocket

hibitions, which will involve rotating selections of the MMSU’s huge permanent collection as well as individual and group shows by leading international artists.

Whether you like the displays or not, it’s the perfect place to contemplate Rijeka’s ongoing transformation into a post-industrial city of art and leisure. QA‑1, Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www. mmsu.hr. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-17:00; closed Mon. 30/10kn.

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.

QD‑1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com. Open 09:00-15:00, 16:0020:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-13:00, 14:00-20:00. Admission 20/10kn. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka Children’s House Children’s House stimulates imagination and daydreaming, invites play and laughter. Films, concerts, plays, video games, 3D printing, robotics, scientific experiments, ecology and environmental protection, outdoor games and walks in the nature are just some of the programs offered here. The values behind the Children’s House suggest that children growing up in a creative environment are able to develop their potential, express themselves better and eventually become creators of a better and brighter future.

QArt-kvart “Benčić”, www.djecjakuca.hr/.

Food Market Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, peppery rucola and baby radicchio at the market stalls. The main city market is also an architectural treasure. It is set behind the old cargo docks right at the water’s edge, fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage from the end of the 19th century. QE‑3, Verdieva.

Kružna Street ((Circle Street)) By strolling through a small passage on Jadranski trg you will be transported into a world of murals, youth, and culture. Kružna street received its name due to its looped shape (krug=circle) which makes it a perfect space for artistic expression; a place where plenty of NGOs organize cultural events and communicate empowering messages about multiculturally, LGBT, women’s rights. The street is conveniently “furnished” with colourful wooden pallets as benches, where you can sit and relax, absorb the beauty and feast your mural-loving eyes.QC‑2.

Nebo Restaurant & Lounge by Deni Srdoč Situated on a fifth floor of the new Hilton resort with a breathtaking view over Kvarner Bay, this exciting, fine dining restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star recently. Tantalise your taste buds with divine food and wine based on local produce, prepared with a modern twist. Superb service with great attention to detail in both taste and presentation make this place an amazing culinary experience. The sky here is a name - but certainly not the limit! QOpatijska ulica 9, tel. (+385-51) 60 01 19, www.neborijeka.com. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Mon. A­W Trsat Stairway Rijeka’s ‘Stairway to Heaven‘consists of 561 stone steps built for the pilgrims as the path to the Church of Our Lady of Trsat. The legend says that the Franciscans made a deal with the Devil: if he makes a stairway, the devil will have the soul of whoever climbs the stairway first. Once he finished his work, the Devil waited for the victim. However, the Franciscans fooled him and let a goat climb first.

The Devil was so enraged that he mixed the steps, so that nobody has been able to count them to this day!QA‑1, Stube Petra Kružića. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

Summer 2022

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Restaurants Croatian Blato In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. Open 09:00-15:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. (60 - 130 kn). A­P­G­T­W Ćakula (Chitchat with locals) This place has a motto: ‘Think global, eat local’. Which is exactly what you get here. Mediterranean style cuisine made with local products, all seasoned with ‘ćakula’ which in the vernacular means ‘chitchat’. With chicken rolls, lasagne, tuna steak or legume, it is your choice. Ćakula serves great daily menus or marende as it’s called in the local dialect. Don’t forget to hydrate yourself properly with local craft beer! QD‑1, Ul. pod Voltun 15, tel. (+385-) 91 595 87 71. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. (30-70kn).

A ­P­G­B­S­V­J­6­ Conca d’oro In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, (Conca d’oro-Golden Seashell in Italian or Zlatna Školjka in Croatian) has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city’s classiest restaurants.

The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations.The wine list is based on local winemakers, mostly from the Istrian area. QC‑2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385-51) 21 37 82. Open 11:00-24:00. The kitchen is open until 22:30. (90-200kn). A­P­G­­B­W Feral Affordable konoba – it’s a simple place with a small menu – which often means that what they do, they do well. Every day, there’s a daily menu with 5-6 dishes from which you can choose and prices are not high at all.The wine are good and not overpriced.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, www.konoba-feral.com. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. July - September 10 Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50-100kn). A­P­G­­T­B­S­W Girica Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, www.konoba-girica.incroatia.info/. Open 09:0018:00; closed Sun. (50 - 200 kn). A­P­G­T­L­W Ive This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. Open 10:00-24:00; closed Mon. (120 - 150 kn).

A ­G­­T­B­L­6­W 16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Konoba Fiume Very popular among the locals, this cozy little osteria is conveniently located near the fish market which makes it a great stop for lunch. For a moderate price you will be served fresh seafood pasta, grilled or fried calamari, black risotto, to name just a few. This family run bistro with a simple list of local favourites topped with great and friendly service will make everyone feel at home. QE‑3, Ul. Vatroslava Lisin‑ skog 12, tel. (+385-51) 31 21 08. Open 07:00-19:00; Sat 07:00-15:00; closed Sun. (40-120) kn. B­J Na kantunu Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. Comfortable outside seating stretching by the Dead Channel with an excellent view of the fortress Trsat. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community.QE‑3, Wenzelova 4, tel. (+38551) 31 32 71. Open 0:00-22:00; closed Sun. (50-200kn).

A ­P­G­­T­B­S­J­W Nono Frane Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (70-170kn). A ­P­G­­T­B­S­L­6­W Primorska Konoba Local-themed tavern (konoba) which aims to popularize local food and drink products. It is a great place for a break on an Old Town corner. QD‑2, Krojačka 1, tel. (+385-) 095 671 67 17, www.facebook.com/primorskakonoba.

Open 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. (45-130kn). A Tarsa The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89. Open 10:00-24:00; closed Mon. (70 - 250 kn).

A ­PGTUB­S­L­6­W Trsatica A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.

QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, www.restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Tue. (60 - 150 kn). P­­T­B­6­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

RIJEKA GASTRONOMIC PORTS Riječke gastronomske luke

Your tailor – made dining experience Doživljaj blagovanja po Vašoj mjeri visitRijeka.hr

Restaurants

Taste&Music Archive

Pizza Boonker Located in the old shelter bunker in the centre of Rijeka, this popular pizzeria&lounge bar sits right by the waterfront, only a few meters from the sea. Good selections of finger food, pasta and pizza as well as the mains will provide you witha variety of options from which to choose.

Find your place on a terrace and sit back to enjoy the great marina views with some good music in the background!

QC‑2, Istarsko pristanište 1, tel. (+385-51) 40 17 38, www.boonker.hr/. Open 08:00-24:00. (80-200kn).

B­J Maslina na Zelenom trgu A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts. Daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (60-210kn). A ­PGTBSJ­W O’Hara From Zagreb to Rijeka, this pizza franchise is booming with their one-of-a-kind authentic Napolitano style pizzas. The entire process has ‘Naples’ written all over it, many of the ingredients derive from the city as do the

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

J Old town location

18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

recipes (including the making of the dough). The oven is one of a kind and the entire process is open for visitors to watch the pizza makers in action. Get a real tasty of Italy at O’Hara’s. QC‑2, Riva 12a, tel. (+385-51) 56 88 88, www.facebook.com/ohararijeka. Open 08:00-23:00.

(46-130kn). A­J Pizzeria Bracera Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven and they do great big crispy salads.The place is named for a well known type of boat, with a boat on display on the ceiling in the main dining hall. Prices are reasonable.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00-24:00.

(32-95kn). A­P­G­­T­B­6­W

Quick Eats Buffet Cocco Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun. (40-110 kn). A­G­­T­B­W Mornar Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.

Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes.

Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 5b, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22. Open 08:00-23:00.

(55-140kn). A ­P­G­T­B­S­L­J­6­ Nosh Cosmopolitan Food Bar This is the hotspot in town, a heaven for both foodies and Instagrammers. Right in the city centre, this gastronomical mosaic with cuisine from all over the world offers a large variety of brunch and tapas which makes it a great option for a tasty breakfast as well as for a light evening meal combined rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants with cocktails, wine or beer. ‘Inspired by cravings’ is the motto here, and your cravings will surely be satisfied. QE‑2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 749 71 69. Open 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. (45-90kn). A ­P­B­S­J

around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Mat‑ ulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30-23:00. (90-140 kn). A­P­G­­T­B­6­

Spoon Spoon is a small family restaurant with traditional Croatian cuisine prepared by consulting Grandma’s recipes. The guiding thought was to serve the authentic dishes eaten with the spoon. On offer are fava beans soup, čobanac meat soup, ajngemahtec soup with chicken, vegetables and dumplings, Dalmatian style tripes, jota soup, cod in a broth and more. There is also a nice choice of vegan and vegetarian dishes. QD‑1, Trg Jurja Klovića 2, tel. (+385-) 97 661 14 43. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. (3048kn). A ­B­J

Plavi podrum A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.

QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. (110-200 kn). A­P­G­­T­B­S­W

Vegetarian Tifan Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 11:30-15:00; closed Sun. (42 kn). A ­P­G­­T­B­S­L­6­

out of town Draga di Lovrana Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00-23:00. (180220kn). A­P­G­T­B­L­W Konoba Valle Losca A traditional inn that gets the thumbs up from the local gourmet crowd, Valle Losca is one of those places that has built up a cult reputation by offering seasonal ingredients and a shrewd selection of rustic recipes – casseroles, baked meats and fish, and lots of home-made pasta. The ambience is as cosy as the food, with a cute bare stone interior and a small summer terrace out on this characteristic Volosko street. Not many tables though so try and reserve.

QUl. Andrije Štangera 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 095 580 37 57. Open 13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. July - August 31 Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (80 - 160 kn).

A ­P­B Mala riba This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rivica Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (70-200 kn).

A ­P­T­B­J­6­ Stancija Kovačići Idyllically positioned below Mt. Učka and above Opatija.

With a flair for tradition, chef Vinko Frlan favours local produce above all with meat, fish, cheese, Istrian prosciutto, truffles, olive oil and herbs grown in the restaurant garden.

Not to mention the Boškarin beef, lamb baked under the iron bell, dishes with asparagus, nettle, wild garlic, homemade pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, homemade bread and more.

The fusion of contemporary meets tradition is scene not only in the menu but in the stunning architecture of the restaurant which also houses a serene outdoor terrace.

Stancija Kovačići is perfect for a weekend getaway as they have five rooms for accommodation with the Učka Nature Park nearby, mesmerising Opatija down below, and lots of hiking trails in the surrounding area. This hidden gem is well worth a visit when exploring the Kvarner region!QRukavac 51, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 21 06, www.stancija-kovacici.hr/. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. July and August Open 12:00 23:00, Mon and Tue 18:00 - 23:00. (100-160 kn).

Zijavica Right beside the seafront and with a terrace out on the beach, this is another place that brings out the best in Kvarner cuisine – traditional food served with contemporary finesse, with priority given to what’s fresh and seasonal. It’s a great place to try local fish, scampi, seashells and homemade fuži pasta, and there’s usually something featuring traditional boškarin beef on the menu. QŠetalište 25, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 72 43, www. konoba-zijavica.com/. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Wed. (110-160 kn). A ­P­B­S­ Summer 2022

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Coffee & Cakes Book Caffe Dnevni boravak For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, Ciottina 12a. Open 07:0024:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. N­P­X­T­E­J­ 6­W Cacao A stand-out patisserie celebrated for the sheer range and quality of the things on offer, Cacao is the kind of place that demands repeat visits if you are to fully appreciate what they are capable of. Otherwise it’s a pretty tall order to make a choice between the delicate mille-feuilles, the outstanding macaroons, the delicious cheesecakes and the fantastic ice cream. With biscuits and hand-made chocolates on sale too, you’re unlikely to leave empty-handed. QC‑2, Riva 14, tel. (+385-) 091 202 06 30, www.cacao.hr/. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00.

P­G­B­S­J­ Cukarikafe The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 091 601 77 01. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the city library which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. N­G­X­T­B­J­6­W

tel. (+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 07:00-19:00; Sat 07:00-13:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W RICA Gluten Free This health-oriented café-bakery right opposite the National Theatre serves some awesomely good fare; no wonder the outdoor terrace is one of Rijeka’s most popular people-watching spots. Snack on savoury burek or sandwiches, or opt for the hard-to-resist cakes, syrupy baklava and creamy slices of kremšnita. You can also buy loaves of bread and packets of biscuits from the bakery counter.QE‑3, Verdijeva 3b, tel. (+38551) 37 45 93, www.rica.hr/. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 08:0014:00; closed Sun. A­P­B­J­W Samovar Bar If you want a cosy little place to stop by and enjoy a cup of tea, coffee or Croatian craft beer, this is it. It has great indoor and outdoor seating with cushions, carpets and chandeliers. Boir - a locally based tea-blending brand is served here and can be purchased as take away. Owing to the tea bar and a relaxing atmosphere surrounding it, the square is often referred to as the Tea Square, a charming little oasis dotted with live plants. QE‑2, Trg Matije V. Flaciusa 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 55 21. Open 07:0020:00; Sat 07:00-14:00; closed Sun. N­B­J W Slon Pastry Shop The must-see pastry shop, “Slon by Moreno Debartoli”, in the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town has been inspired by the first chocolate factory in the Balkans that opened in this city at the end of the 19th century. All desserts are created in a workshop located within the pastry shop and are made from 100% natural ingredients and the finest Belgian chocolate. QE‑1, Grivica 4, tel. (+385-51) 29 65 42, www.slon.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A­J

GRAD kavana&bar Situated on the waterfront just short of the ferry terminal, Grad is one of those all-purpose café-bars that are a good place to grab a bite to eat or drink coffee during the daytime, or plough your way through the drinks menu at night. Six daily specials are chalked up on a board every lunchtime, all displaying a deft combination of local seasonal ingredients and contemporary European savvy. Boutique gins and a good wine list might just keep you here until closing time. QD‑3, Riva Boduli 7B, tel. (+385-) 091 272 61 63. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:0024:00; Sun 08:00-22:00; closed Mon. A­P­X­B­J Piko PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread, pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks. A pleasant ambience and always fresh products will make your day in Rijeka more enjoyable.QC‑2, Korzo 38b, 20 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Bačva Pub This is a casual and relaxing bar and a great place to watch a football match with your friends while enjoying a few pints of beer. If you like sport of any kind, this is a place to be. There are regular pub quizzes and resident DJ performances. The beer range is huge as well as the selection of other drinks, and comfortable seating outside allows you to watch the comings and goings on a busy downtown street.QC/D‑2, Dolac 8. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-02:00; Sat 08:0002:00; closed Sun. N­PTBJ­W Bar Bar Bar Bar combines industry with some great beverage and snacks combinations​. It typically defines the golden age of Rijeka production with one room teeming with age old artefacts allowing for a stroll down memory lane. Look out for the homemade nibbles at the bar amongst other specials.QD‑2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel. (+385-) 099 331 72 08, www. bar-bar.eu/. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri 10:00-02:00; Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. P­J­W Bard Celtic Caffe A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight.

Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.

QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-) 091 511 44 47.

Open 09:00-24:00; Sat 16:00-24:00; closed Sun. N ­P­T­B­J­6­W Harat’s Pub Harat’s is almost like Ireland in Rijeka. Located on the edge of the Old Town, Harat’s offers everything you would expect from a true Irish pub: live music and quirky décor, excellent choice of draft and bottled beer, local and imported and many kinds of whiskeys. If you are hungry, try their burgers, fish & chips or other beer snacks. Two daily specials are also served. Here at Harat’s, special care is taken with transport, storage, and temperature of beer… all to enable the perfect beer experience!QD‑2, Pod Kaštelom 9, tel. (+385-51) 62 14 34, www.rijeka. harats.com/en/rijeka/. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-24:00. A ­B­E Karolina Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself. During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00.

N ­P­T­B­E­J­6­ facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Hanging out

W Rakhia bar This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD‑2, An‑ drije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 097 665 61 13, www. rakhiabar.com/. Open 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. N ­P­T­B­J­6­W River Pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late.

One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Su‑ pila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73. Open 07:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 07:00-03:00; Sat 18:00-03:00; closed Sun. N­P­­T­B­J­W Sabrage Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR‑2, Pe‑ tra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77, www.sabragebar.com. Open 08:0024:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. N ­P­­T­B­E­J­W The Beertija Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning! It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slav‑ ka Krautzeka 12, tel. (+385-) 091 117 11 95. Open 09:00-01:00; Thu 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. A ­P­­T­B­E­6­W Three Monkeys One of the newest slick bars in town that combines vintage designs with colour schemes. Known for quality coffee and crafty cocktails, the bar is open for early morning coffee with light jazz and bossa notes playing in the background, whilst as the sun sets, cocktails, gin and other beverages take over the menu. All in all, this is place to chill from morning till night! QE‑2, Fiumara 5, tel. (+385-) 091 607 60 01, www.facebook.com/threemonkeysri. Open 07:00-02:00; Sun 09:0-02:00. P­­T­B­6­ Summer 2022 21

Shopping

Antikvarijat Ex-Libris Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices.QD‑2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, www.knjiga.hr. Open 09:0020:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Atelier Madeliefie Art by Antea Delpin If you want to buy a unique piece of jewlery, then visiting Atelier Madeliefie is a must. Paintings, T-shirts and unique mosaic jewelry made from hand picked driftwood from the island of Pag adorn its windows. When you buy a craft product, you are buying more than an object, you are investing in something that was made with the heart, a part of the craftsman‘s soul. In this case, it is Antea Delpin’s, the soul of a young artist from the island of Pag whose creativity has shaped this lovely jewelry.QSokol Kula 4b, tel. (+385-) 091 558 34 68.

BuRa Design Store For the cutting edge of Croatian couture this is arguably one of the best addresses in the country, with racks of unique and edgy clothing reinforced by a fascinating selection of jewelry and accessories. Standouts include brooches by Eva Lumezi, luminous glass jewelry by Vitrum in Fabula, and the enigmatic, alluring, matt-black bags and necklaces made from recycled rubber by the Zagreb-based design team Gooma. Bura means “storm” in Croatian and anyone interested in contemporary style will be blown away by this stuff. QE‑2, Matije Gupca 13b, tel. (+385-51) 56 49 40.

Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A­J Croatia in a Box A souvenir shop with a difference, Croatia in a Box started out with the idea of producing really beautiful gift boxes - decorated with Croatian motifs such as Glagolitic letters, embroidery symbols, gingerbread hearts – and providing the items to fill them with. Lining the shelves is a carefully curated selection of Croatian-designed jewelry, interiordesign items, accessories (check out the bags and purses

by Mura Pehnec) and boutique rakijas and wines. You can of course buy individual items without bothering with the box, but the fact that the packaging is part of the concept certainly makes present-buying a lot more fun.QGrivica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 344 54 45, www.croatiainabox.com/ hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. A­J 22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Laval Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.

QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33, www.laval. hr. Open 09:30-17:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A Mala galerija In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:30-19:30; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Mari Cro design studio If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A Poneštrica The name of the store is a local word for a small window and in it you will find works by artisans and artists mainly from Rijeka and its surrounding areas. Ceramics, painting, handicrafts and designer jewelry are on offer and you will surely be able to choose the right gift for everyone in here.

In addition, this is a wonderful venue for readers’ meetings and various creative workshops. QD‑2, Trg 128.Brigade Hrvatske vojske 3A, tel. (+385-) 098 48 23 74, www. ponestrica.hr/. Open 09:30-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. Šta da?

The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0013:00; closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Hanging out

Weekend Getaways Explore Surroundings and escape the crowds

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Weekend Getaways Aquatika - Freshwater aquarium Karlovac Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to get to know our fishy friends better and understand more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity the Karlovac region is.QUlica Branka Čavlovića Čavleka 1a, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 65 91 12, www.aquariumkarlovac.com/.

Brseč A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.

Museum of Apoxyomenos The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos. The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. The final

room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero.

Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use of mirrors. This year the museum earned a Special Commendation in the European Museum of the Year Awards (EMYA). EMYA is dedicated to promoting excellence in innovation and public quality in museum practice, encouraging networking and the exchange of ideas and sustainable best practices within the sector.

QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+38551) 73 42 60, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr. Admission 115/40 kn. J Risnjak National Park Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak National Park. This range of mountains, from which can be viewed the Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the somewhat inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature of 12.60 in July. The park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance.

The Information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice – the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through the ‘valley of the butterflies’. QBijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, www.np-risnjak.hr.

Thalassotherapia Opatija Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer continues to expand, the center now includes the

Apoxyomenos Museum © photo Bosnic & Dorotic

24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Weekend Getaways

application of contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or alleviate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. A The islet of Košljun The search for tranquillity stops right here at the islet of Košljun, located 750 meters from Punat at the Krk island.

The miniature island takes about 1- 2 hours to see and is best known for the Franciscan monastery which thrives till this day. A Benedictine abbey was built there in the 11th century and was then extended and turned into a monastery in the 15th century. The Benedictines presented Košljun under the motto: ‘Pray and work’ which is visible on the front door of the monastery, while the Franciscan’s saluted with ‘Peace and Good’ on the way out – written, of course, in the ancient Croatian ‘Glagolitic script!’

Franciscan monks still live and reside there and the islet has a museum with an ethnographic collection containing numerous items produced by Krk fishermen and farmers, as well as local folk costumes. The library has around 30,000 books which includes some world rarities. Getting to the island is only via organized boat tours and once there, take out your treasure maps and begin the search for the six chapels around the island… facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

The Memorial Centre Lipa Remembers (Memorijalni centar Lipa pamti) In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ opened its doors to the public for the very first time. Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children.

The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most residential and commercial buildings.

By the end of World War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a huge sense of loss.

Today, Lipa lives and remembers with its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never forgetting the past.

The Centre also signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehistory to the present day. An exhibition on memorial tourism, On the Roads of Revolution, can be seen on display until August 30th.

QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, www. lipapamti.ppmhp.hr. (10/5 kn).

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Weekend Getaways

npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr

The Northern Velebit National Park With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable forests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats, which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac.

Zavižan and Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders, surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, has numerous ruins of shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in times past. The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineering.

At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the traditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renovation of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming as a measure for preserving biodiversity.

To learn more and buy entry tickets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the village of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of enter26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

ing a chasm using a special “lift”. QKrasno 96, Krasno, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.

Učka Nature Park The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range.Qwww.pp-ucka.hr.

Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction).Qwww.tz-skrad.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Weekend Getaways Opatija riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradi-

Visit Kastav www.kastav-touristinfo.hr Visit Kastav

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Weekend Getaways tion may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Ičići Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croatia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a wonder for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes to help wind down.QTourist Board, Liburnijska 7a, Tel: +385 (0) 51 704 187, www.icici-tourism.com.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas – many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach. QTourist Board of the Lovran Munica‑ pility, Trg slobode 1, Tel: +385 (0) 51 291 740, www. tz-lovran.hr.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance. QTourist In‑ formation Centre Kastav, Matka Mandića 11a. Tel: +385 (0)51 691 425, www.kastav-touristinfo.hr.

Opatija Opatija Tourist Information Center QMaršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, www.visitopatija.com.

Opatija Tourist Board Archives

Islands Cres - The Largest Island in Croatia The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice – it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797.

There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

Cres Tourist Board QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, www.tzg-cres. hr.

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Krk Tourist Information OMIŠALJ TOURIST OFFICE OF OMIŠALJ MUNICIPALITY QPrikešte 11, Omišalj, tel./fax. +385 (0)51 84 10 42, e-mail:info@visit-omisalj-njivice.hr, www.visit-omisalj-njivice.hr.

Weekend Getaways Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

NJIVICE TOURIST OFFICE OF OMIŠALJ MUNICIPALITY QRibarska obala 10, Njivice, tel. +385 (0)51 84 62 43, e-mail:info@visit-omisalj-njivice.hr, www.visitomisalj-njivice.hr.

Malinska THE MUNICIPALITY OF MALINSKA -DUBAŠNICA TOURIST BOARD QObala 46, Malinska, tel. +385 (0)51 85 92 07, email: info@visitmalinska.com, www.visitmalinska. com.

Vrbnik TOURIST BOARD OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF VRBNIK QPlaca Vrbničkog statuta 4, Vrbnik, tel./fax. +385 (0)51 85 74 79, e-mail:info@vrbnik.hr, www.vrbnik.hr.

Krk CITY OF KRK TOURIST BOARD QVela placa 1/1, Krk, tel. +385 (0)51 22 14 14, e-mail:tz@tz-krk.hr, www.tz-krk.hr, www.experi‑ encekrk.com.

TIC /TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QJ.J. Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. +385 (0)51 22 02 26, email: tic@tz-krk.hr .

Punat THE PUNAT TOURIST BOARD OFFICE QPod topol 2, Punat, tel. +385 (0)51 85 48 60, email:info@tzpunat.hr, www.tzpunat.hr.

Baška TOURIST BOARD OF THE BAŠKA MUNICIPALITY QKralja Zvonimira 114, Baška, tel. +385 (0)51 85 68 17, e-mail: info@visitbaska.hr, www.visitbaska.hr.

Dobrinj DOBRINJ MUNICIPALITY TOURIST BOARD QStara cesta bb, Šilo, tel. +385 (0)51 85 21 07, email:info@visitdobrinj.hr, www.visitdobrinj.hr.

Dobrinj THE ISLAND OF KRK TOURIST BOARD QTrg sv. Kvirina 1, Krk, tel. +385 (0)51 22 13 59, email: tz-otoka-krka@ri.t-com.hr, www.krk.hr.

THE ISLAND OF KRK THE ISLAND OF KRK TOURIST BOARD QTrg sv. Kvirina 1, Krk, tel. +385 (0)51 22 13 59, email: tz-otoka-krka@ri.t-com.hr, www.krk.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Krk - Golden Island So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located.

Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the Summer 2022

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Weekend Getaways cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

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Lošinj - An island of herbs You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and – like Susak – carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.

Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones.

The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, www. visitlosinj.hr. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Osorske glazbene večeri

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Weekend Getaways Rab - Island a Paradise

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Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on.

Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity.

But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone.

Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands.

On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.

Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.

The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

Rab Tourist Board QTrg Municipium Arba 8, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, www.rab-visit.com. Open 08:00-21:00.

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The Crikvenica Riviera The Crikvenica Riviera is situated in one of the most picturesque corners of Kvarner and is surrounded by clear blue sea, white coastal rocks and fragrant green hills. The Riviera enjoys a mild and healthy climate, and is home to beautiful natural scenery and a rich cultural and historical heritage. This makes it ideal for family fun, an active holiday or just lazing on the beach.

The heart of the Riviera is Crikvenica, the proud host of one the most beautiful town beaches on the Adriatic coast. The charm of Jadranovo will win you over with its proximity to well-preserved nature, while lively Selce will attract your attention with the beauty of its traditions. Seductive Dramalj, on the other hand, conceals the wonderful calm of the Kačjak peninsula. The Riviera has long attracted visitors with its warmth, leaving a lasting impression and making great friends who return here again and again, some even for decades.

Crikvenica Tourist Information CenterQTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, www.rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00. From October open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, closed Sun. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Weekend Getaways Blue Fish Month

To celebrate the magic of the oily fish recipes that have sustained this place for centuries, September in Crikvenica will be Blue Fish Month. Sardines at their most magical.

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Arrival & Getting Around behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station. QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 66 06 60/(+385-) 060 88 86 66, www.arriva.com.hr/en-us/ home.

airport Rijeka Airport (Zračna luka Rijeka) Rijeka airport near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Olivari shuttle bus will take you to the main Bus terminal on Trg bana Jelačića for 55kn, one way. Outside the main season, make sure to check via mail or phone for more details.

Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-) 099 525 89 11, www. rijeka-airport.hr. Open 08:00-18:00.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

ferries Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for local catamarans, local ferries as well as international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr.

Working hours are subject to change depending on the time of year (season, post season, off season) so it is ad‑ visable to check by phone beforehand.

buses Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; tel. 060 88 86 66 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online www.arriva.com.hr/en-us/home. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs all around. Left luggage (garderoba): the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just 36 Rijeka In Your Pocket

TRAINS Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need. Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website has a good English page featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 04. There is also a ticket machine inside the bureau where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station.QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44/ (+385-51) 21 13 04, www.hzpp.hr/en.

Tourist Information Tourist Information Center Rijeka Tourist Information Centre.QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:0020:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2 Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3 Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1 Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2

Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1 Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2 Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2 Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3 Veslarska E-2 Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1 Vinka Benca M-2, N-2 Viškovo L-1 Vodovodna E-1 Vrlije V-1 Vukovarska N-2, O-2 Wenzelova E-3 Zadarska C-2 Zagrebačka D-3 Zametska L-2, M-2 Zanonova C-2, D-2 Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1 Zvonimirova M-2, N-2 Žabica B-2, C-2 Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1

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