Šibenik In Your Pocket No5

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Šibenik Summer 2015

May The Forts Be With You Discover the history of Šibenik’s fortresses The Grape Escape Become a wine connoisseur

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History In Spades Ten must-see archeological sites

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Nightlife

31

Are you ready to party?

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Arrival & Getting Around

5

A guide to abide when help is needed Keepn it real 9 10 16

We give you the bread n butter of where to eat

Šibenik Surroundings 43

Leisure

57

Shopping

59

Hotels

61

Where to catch a wink 27

Maps & Index

30

County Map City Centre Map Street Register

Cheers! Salut! Bottoms up!

Treat yourself

41

Priceless places and buys

Restaurants 18

Coffee & Cakes

Archeological Treasury

A little leasure and pleasure

Top destinations

Local Flavour

39

The top getaways

Larger than life fun to be had

Šibenik Pulse

Dalmatian Zagora

Ten Croatian archeological destinations

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

33

10 must visit places

City Basics 8 History

Sightseeing All the sights you shouldn’t miss

63 64 64

St. Nicholas, the Venetian built sea castle that stands at the entrance to St. Anthony’s Channel. Nicholas is the most stunning and furthest of the fortresses from central Šibenik, and also the most challenging in terms of viable current restoration plans. (St. Nicholas’ Fortress Photo Sky Action - Ivan Ercegović)

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Foreword If you happen to find yourselves in the Šibenik area this summer, then you’re in for a treat. The city itself is a wonderful maze of atmospheric alleys filled with ancient cottages, topped off with Juraj Dalmatinac’s fabulous Cathedral, now a UNESCO site. The surrounding area encompasses masses of pristine islands, perfect for the escapists among you, and the refreshing green splash of Krka National Park. The dry rocky hinterland also hides its share of treasures. Festival junkies will also come into theirs as it seems Šibenik has hit festival fever. Musical festivals of all genres: jazz, classic, chanson, pop, indie, rock… professionals dancing, kids and adults alike enjoying themselves at the local’s favourite International Children’s Festival. And for those of you who are more into discovering those insider’s secrets, read the tips of locals who’ve offered their advice and check out the article about the traditional goodies and where to enjoy them.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1848-0365 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Šibenik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Assistant Eli Gajinov Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Lovro Boljat Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Photo by SED Panorama (Šibenik Tourist Board Archives) Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

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6 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around Arriving By bus

arriving By plane

Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagreb-to-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from 145kn to 164kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of many longdistance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south - so arriving here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.

The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00), information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toilet (07:00 - 22:00).

Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from Split expect around 1hr 50min.

Šibenik Coach Station QG-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68.

Arriving By car From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an exhilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 147kn (car) or 88kn (motorbike) each way.

From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway for a stretch or two.

arriving By train Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be replaced by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin, but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.

Main train station QL-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99, www.hzpp.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, informacije@ split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.

Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax (+385-23) 20 58 33, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadarairport.hr.

Tourist Information The local tourist association offices listed in this guide can help you out with a whole lot of information about individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, so you might want to check on their Web sites or give them a call before trekking over.

Association of Tourist Guides “Mihovil” Šibenik QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5 (TIC), tel. (+38591) 516 37 32, info@vodici-sibenik.hr, www.vodicisibenik.hr.

Public Institution of Krka National Park QE-3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board QE-3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, info@sibenikregion.com, www.sibenikregion.com.

Open 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Šibenik Tourist Board QE-3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, tz-sibenik@si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr.

Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tourist Information Centre QF-4, Obala Dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@ si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. October 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Summer 2015

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Arrival & Getting Around European Coastal Airlines Seaports Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​ QSeaside Airport Resnik Put Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10, resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

QSeaside Airport Jelsa ​Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ecair.eu, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Rab Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Pula Riva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations.

Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air. eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

8 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Public transport Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotransport Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, passing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel complex), and the no. 7 (to Brodarica, jumpoff point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica), where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.

Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn - 15kn.

Autotransport d.d.

QG-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44, autotransport@ atpsi.hr, www.atpsi.hr.

Taxi The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 96 66; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per baggage item. We recommend that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.

Ferries Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a scenic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offering fantastic views of the St Nicholas sea fort as you pass.

Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice journey taking just over one hour.

Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless travelling on selected Žirje services.

The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office diagonally opposite the jetty.

The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board).

Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist excursions operated by travel agencies in Murter and Vodice - or with your own yacht.

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Arrival & Getting Around Jadrolinija Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68, ag.sibenik@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 05:30 - 16:45, 17:45 - 21:30. July - September Open 05:30 - 21:30. October Open 05:30 - 15:30, 18:00 - 19:45.

Car rental Euro-san QI/J-2, Ivana Meštrovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 90/ (+385-) 091 200 29 00, euro-san@si.t-com.hr, www. euro-san.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Petak QL-3, Draga 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 091 726 65 35, petak@petak.hr, www.imeko.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. A

Parking Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street parking is split into four zones where parking is charged 1 June - 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day tickets at 67 - 165 kn.

There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 - 10kn/ hour.

Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemistically named “Služba za premještanje vozila” - the “Service for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23 or pauk@gradski-parking.hr.

We connect Croatia European Coastal Airlines redefines your journey in the air by providing fast daily scheduled connections to the most magnificent islands in the Adriatic. You are invited to explore stunning coastlines and the beautifully preserved centuries old harbour towns Croatia has to offer from an entirely new perspective. Whether traveling for business or pleasure, ECA will provide an experience worth remembering.

www.ec-air.eu

Gradski parking QG-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, info-parking@ gradski-parking.hr, www.gradski-parking.hr.

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Summer 2015

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City Basics Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in

Ribolov Dolac Photo by Igor Radin

10 Šibenik In Your Pocket

urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre, it’s open all year round 07:00 - 21:00, costs 4kn, and is a bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’ Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again 07:00 - 21:00, price 4kn.

Visas Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

History

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

7th century AD The area around Šibenik is settled by Croats.

9th century Croats build a fortress overlooking the sea, proof that Šibenik is becoming an important port.

1066 The town of Šibenik is mentioned in a proclamation

by King Petar Krešimir, its first ever mention in official documents 12th century A thriving settlement increasingly takes shape below the fortress.

1080 The fortress town of Knin, inland from Šibenik, becomes capital of the Croatian state under King Zvonimir.

1102 Croatia’s monarch dies childless, and the crown falls to the king of Hungary. Šibenik continues to flourish in the Hungaro-Croatian state.

1116 Šibenik is all but destroyed by a Venetian siege. It is re-founded ten years later by refugees from “Biograd”, also sacked by the Venetians.

1298 Pope Boniface VIII declares Šibenik a town with the right to its own bishopric.

1409-1412 A three-year Venetian siege culminates with Šibenik’s subjection to the rule of Venice.

1431 Work begins on a new cathedral, culminating in one of the greatest works of ecclesiastical architecture in the Adriatic.

1468 Ottoman Turks advance towards the Šibenik coast, remaining a constant threat for the next two centuries.

1511 An anti-aristocratic revolt led by Juraj Prokić takes over the city, only to be ruthlessly put down by the Venetians the following year.

1522 The towns of Knin and Skradin fall to the Ottoman Turks.

1571 Šibenik contributes a galley to the Venetian fleet at the Battle of Lepanto.

1615 Šibenik-born Renaissance-man Faust Vrančić publishes his book of inventions Machinae Novae.

1645-1669 Central Dalmatia is a major front in the socalled Cretan War, a continent-straddling struggle between Venetians and Ottomans.

1647 An Ottoman attack on Šibenik is repulsed by troops under Baron von Degenfeld.

1649 Plague puts paid to three quarters of the city’s population.

1688 Knin is captured from the Ottomans by Venetian forces, with many local Croats serving in their ranks.

1699 The Peace of Sremski Karlovci confirms Venetian gains, bringing a greater measure of security to the Šibenik region.

1752 The powder store in St Michael’s Fortress is struck by lightning, creating a huge explosion and a fire that spreads throughout the city. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

1797 The Venetian Republic collapses, and Šibenik recognizes the rule of Austrian Emperor Francis II. 1802 The birth of Nikola Tommaseo, the Italian-language writer who collects Dalmatian folk songs.

1806-1813 Šibenik forms part of the French-ruled Illyrian Provinces. With the defeat of Napoleon Šibenik returns to Austrian control.

1873 The People’s Party under Ante Šupuk wins municipal elections. Croatian replaces Italian as the principal language of instruction in Šibenik’s schools.

1895 Thanks to ambitious mayor Šupuk, who builds a power station on the river Krka, Šibenik is one of the first towns in Europe to get an electricity supply.

1918-1920 Italian troops occupy Šibenik, until forced to leave by the terms of the Rapallo Treaty. Šibenik subsequently forms part of the newly-created Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs (later renamed Yugoslavia).

1925 Šibenik is connected to the rest of Croatia by railway.

1941-1944 Šibenik is occupied first by Italians then Germans. Šibenik is liberated by the First Dalmatian Partisan Brigade.

1945 Croatia becomes a federal republic in a communistcontrolled Yugoslavia.

1948 Stalin ejects Yugoslavia from the comintern bloc.

1950s-1960s Croatia’s Adriatic coast becomes a major European tourist destination.

1958 The first ever Šibenik Children’s Festival is held.

1972 Hollywood actor Goran Višnjić is born in Šibenik 1979 Fifteen-year-old basketball player Dražen Petrović makes his debut for local team Šibenka. Petrović goes on to win the European Player of the Year award six times before suffering a fatal car crash in 1993.

1980 Yugoslavia’s long-serving President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections.

1991 Croatia declares its independence from Yugoslavia.

1991 Aided by the Yugoslav Peoples’ Army, Serbian forces take control of the region around Knin, placing Šibenik on the front line of the conflict.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the conflict to a close.

2000 Croatia’s post-independence tourism boom gets into full swing.

2005 The opening of the Zagreb-Split motorway places Šibenik only a few hours’ drive from the heartland of Central Europe.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2011 The first Terraneo Music Festival puts Šibenik on the global rock map.

2013 The entry of the republic of Croatia into the European Union.

Summer 2015

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Culture & Events Jonathan Bousfield

St. Mihovil Fortress (Šibenik City Museum Archives)

Lots of Adriatic towns can boast a fortress, but very few of them have four. Šibenik’s fistful of fortifications has – at the risk of stating the obvious – been around for quite a long time. However it is only recently that they have begun to make a real difference to the city’s tourist profile.

An ambitious programme of restoration is already beginning to return these grizzled stone outcrops to the heart of Šibenik life, confirming the city’s position as one of the fastest-rising cultural destinations on the Adriatic.

St Michael’s Fortress (Tvrđava sv. Mihovil), the medieval castle around which Šibenik first came into being, had for many years been an underused tourist attraction, offering good views from its battlements but little further inducement to make the uphill trek to its gates. The transformation of St Michael’s into not just a well-appointed visitor site but also a state-of-the-art concert venue was a crucial part in the rebranding of Šibenik as a stylish cultural destination.

Given Šibenik’s past – a previously wealthy manufacturing town that lost most of its industries in the 1990s and never really recovered – this tourist-friendly exercise in changing the image of the city represents a major shift in Šibenik’s fortunes.

St Michael’s Fortress St Michael’s Fortress is thought to date from the eleventhcentury reign of King Petar Krešimir IV, considered by many to be Šibenik’s founding father. Much of what can be seen today consists of a lower layer of thirteenth-century stonework to which numerous later, Venetian-era improvements have been made. The existence of a double wall descending towards the sea points to the two-fold purpose of the fortress, defending the city from every direction while also protecting potential retreats via the seafront and its port.

12 Šibenik In Your Pocket

The thorough restoration of St Michael’s, complete with the construction of a 1077-capacity concert venue featuring several terraces of audience seating, cost in excess of E1.6 million, 60% of which was provided by the European Union. Completed in 2014, the fortress immediately added a new dimension to the city’s status as a festival destination, hosting bands as diverse as The National and Nouvelle Vague as well as classical music, jazz and childrens’ performances.

Most importantly the fortress was a big hit with tourists, attracting 115,000 in its first six months of opening (the pre-renovation figures were around 20,000-30,000 per year). Healthy ticket sales have eased fears about St Michael’s long-term sustainability, demonstrating to locals that the city’s fortress programme is no mere pie in the sky.

Barone Fortress A similarly ambitious renovation campaign is currently taking place at the Barone Fortress (also known as Šubićevac), whose jutting grey bastions hover above the town to the southeast.

The fortress was built during the seventeenth-century Candia Wars, when Venetian and Ottoman armies roamed across the Dalmatian hinterland and Šibenik was on the front line.

The current plan for the fortress involves the installation of an interactive, audiovisual display to show what fortress life was like for the seventeenth-century soldier. Barone’s grand reopening is currently set for late 2015 or early 2016.

St John Fortress A short distance west of the Barone Fortress, the St John Fortress is another Venetian-era stronghold that cries out for thorough renovation, although you will always find locals up here walking their dogs and admiring the expansive views across the city and the coast. Part of the fortress was used as a set for Game of Thrones during the autumn filming season in 2014, sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events which may well draw a trickle of foreign visitors up the hill too.

It has also been earmarked as the next stage in Šibenik’s ongoing fortress revolution, the future site of a ‘children’s fortress’ which will feature interactive attractions and play areas that stress green technologies and ecological sustainability.

St Michael’s Fortress Summer Stage

More ambitious still is the idea of integrating the fortresses into an innovative public transport system, that will see Sveti Mihovil connected to the seafront by a moving escalator, and a cable car system allowing travel onwards and upwards to St John and Barone. One of the base stations for the cable car will be the new cruise-ship quay, just southeast of central Šibenik, allowing cruise-born day-trippers to get the most out of the city. All of this cable-car stuff is still on the drawing board , but given Šibenik’s success thus far in securing EU funds for its visionary projects, anything is possible over the next few years.

19.06 Friday Darko Rundek & Rundek Cargo Trio The singer of the Croatian cult group Haustor from the 1980s and his Rundek Cargo Trio are all set for a premiere performance as they present their long-awaited new album ‘Mostovi’ at the Fortress of St. Michael. The setting will provide an ideal backdrop for evoking some past times that greatly had an impact on the regional alternative rock scene.

St Nicholas’ Fortress Arguably the most stunning of Šibenik’s fortresses, and one that certainly won’t be reached by any future cablecar, is that of St Nicholas, the Venetian-built sea-castle that stands at the entrance to St Anthony’s Channel. This narrow waterway leads from the bay of Šibenik to the open sea; whoever controlled the channel was master of mid-Dalmatia. St Nicholas is the furthest of the fortresses from central Šibenik and also the most challenging in terms of viable future restoration plans.

However its beautiful maritime position makes it the ideal target for a coastal walk or cycle ride, and there is really no excuse not to make the effort to visit. Designed by sixteenthcentury military architect Gian Girolamo Sammicheli it’s a beautifully proportioned building; a tapering smooth-pointed triangle whose bastions and gun platforms were designed to cover attack from all possible directions. It’s accessible by driving or walking from Zablaće, a village located 7km from Šibenik just beyond the Solaris tourist complex. From the tip of terra firma, where a newly reconstructed coastal path leads around the eastern side of St Anthony’s Channel, a wooden walkway curves its way across to an offshore islet, from where a rough stone causeway (invariably lapped by water so take waterproof footwear) leads to the fortress itself. It is possible to clamber up onto the fortresses’ main gun platform, although be aware that this is not a secure, sanitized tourist attraction and there are no safety railings round the side of the fort. So it’s appropriate for moderately fit adults to visit the fortress on an at-their-own-risk basis; anyone else might find it difficult or dangerous.

By Jonathan Bousfield

instagram.com/ croatiaiyp facebook.com/ sibenikinyourpocket facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Tickets available in Šibenik City Museum and st. Michael’s Fortress. C-2

13.07 Monday Detour This critically acclaimed five-member musical group from Zagreb is famous for their very distinctive electro-acoustic pop sound that has, throughout the years, earned them numerous nominations for the prestigious Croatian Porin Music Awards. Rumour has it that a few new tracks will take over the speakers.

22.07 Wednesday Ensemble Lado LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed.Qwww.lado.hr.

24.07 Friday - 25.07 Saturday Terraneo Summer Break After last year’s baptism of fire, the excitement, passion and vibe is beginning to spread around Dalmatia as festival fans are eager to find out about this year’s Terraneo line-up. Why the hype you may ask? Last year’s first ever edition simply rocked and with over 3000 devotees attending and DJs and bands pelting hits off stages, much is anticipated second time round. So the latest is that the event is expanding and will now be staged in two cities. Šibenik is home of course and events will be held primarily at the Fortress of Saint Michael. The new kid on the block is Zadar, with events expected on the Square of Five Wells and the square in front of the Church of Saint Donatus. All these ancient sites of majestic historical meaning will bring the best of today’s music to the stage! And musically, there is something for everyone; acid jazz, electronic, funk, rock to hip hop, and DJs bring the house down pretty much after midnight. Just to whisper, the 2 Cellos are back ladies and gents; last year’s half hour encore obviously wasn’t enough. Our guide has the full programme for your info…

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Culture & Events 31.07 Friday Amira Medunjanin Since releasing her debut album ‘Rosa’ 10 years ago, the respected Sarajevo artist has to date made a full circle and started anew. In the program called ‘Silk & Stone’, the audience will have the opportunity to experience the popular old folk songs ‘sevdalinke’ and other traditional songs from the region, performed in an unconventional way.

03.08 Monday Flogging Molly Front man Dave King grew up in Dublin and later moved to LA which best describes the bands Celtic punk style sound. Flabbergasting live shows alongside lyrics that dwell on Irish history, drinking, politics, love and death is the formula which has made this band such a success.

Hence, it is of no wonder that they are returning to our shore.

08.08 Saturday Urban & 4 Frontman Damir Urban along with his 4 band members will perform at the Fortress of St. Michael as part of the famous Jägermeister Adriatic Tour 2015. An event of sophisticated design, it includes DJ Pill Jackson, resident of Carpe Diem on Hvar, as well as an attractive quality program which promises to create a great atmosphere.

12.08 Wednesday Massimo One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice. His newly released and long awaited album ‘Jedan dan ljubavi’, ‘One day of Love’ has received rave reviews and he brings his emotional tunes to the resounding Fortress of Saint Michael in what should be a night to remember.

Exhibitions

National Geographic gave it the thumbs up with photos of natural and cultural landmarks aplenty. Touring exhibitions in the open will also be set in the public beach Jadrija.

QŠibenik Riva, www.hrvatskaizzraka.com.

Special events 20.06 Saturday - 04.07 Saturday Šibenik International Children’s Festival Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its performances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes, puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and painting. So there are workshops galore, educational training, world presentations and more! The event is spread across different areas of the city.QVarious locations across city centre, www.mdf-sibenik.com.

03.07 Friday - 04.07 Saturday Regius #5 Festival Marking 5 years since the founding of this event, the dock of the TEF port in Šibenik will be home to two days of alternative music for all to see. By bringing bands from Croatia and neighbouring countries and by promoting good neighbourly relations, organisers are actively working to reduce the negative aspects of nationalism among young people in the region. Music unites, music is might!QTEF dock port, www.regiusfestival.com.

09.07 Thursday - 03.09 Thursday Traditional Acapella Evenings One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening in the Šibenik square.QE-3, Trg Ivana Pavla II, Mala loža, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Concerts start at 21:30.

10.07 Friday - 17.07 Friday Friends of the Sea – Nineteen Hundred and Something Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert team will be held with 62 large format documentary photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.

Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

14.07 Tuesday - 19.07 Sunday Salsa Beach Splash Festival The word is, ‘1 hour break’! Indeed, you can kick your heels from 9am till 8am the next morning for 7 days straight. See world artists and dance companies from Africa to Latin America perform at the ‘Solaris Beach Resort’, a stunning lagoon packed with pools, bars, restaurants, sunshades, and more. As a bonus, a free stage lit party will be held by Saint James Cathedral with a dance programme and Ricard Luke & friends performing live on Friday, July 17th. Rio look out!QSolaris Beach Resort (Solaris Hotel Resort), www.salsabeachsplash.com.

31.07 Friday - 15.08 Saturday Croatia from the Air See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and photographer Davor Rostuhar.

15.07 Wednesday - 11.08 Tuesday Musica Appassionata Festival Classical music devotees come hence forth as this event brings together some renowned musicians both local and abroad.QVarious locations across city, www.hnksi.hr.

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sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 16.07 Thursday - 18.07 Saturday The 9th Off Blues & Jazz Festival A three day jazz jostling, blues burning fešta as the locals would call it. Held since 2007, this musical treat continues to grow as it draws respectable Croatian and world jazz/ blues musicians and is set in the picturesque stone ambience of the Ivan Goran Kovačić Square. Performers include the Amira Medunjanin trio, Ian Siegal and Mike Sponza, the DalMotion jazz project by Jan Pele and other jazz gems.

QF-3, Trg Ivana Gorana Kovačića, www.offfestival.net.

20.07 Monday - 24.07 Friday The 5th Šibenik Dance Festival Dancing is like dreaming with your feet and this is Šibenik’s favourite dance event of the year. Six days of morning workshops and evening shows in front of the Cathedral with up to 250 dancers and choreographers alike.QD-4, Trg Republike Hrvatske, www.sjene.hr.

26.07 Sunday - 31.07 Friday 5th Supertoon International Animation Festival Is animation your fascination? The 5th Supertoon International Animation Festival presents recent Croatian and international short animated films through an array of competitions and additional programmes. Do not miss the night sky projections, film screenings under the stars, workshops, and beach parties on hand.QVaroius locations across city centre, www.supertoonfestival.com.

04.08 Tuesday - 06.08 Thursday Super Uho The word uho means ‘ear’, and you’ll have your ears buzzing this August with a top notch international line-up which includes Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan And The Shrines, Rosetta, of Montreal, Ought, Vlasta Popić, Sun Kil Moon, VVhile, Nikky Louder and many more. Rock at its best!QJ-2, Banj Beach, superuho.festival@gmail.com.

21.08 Friday - 22.08 Saturday Šibenik Chanson Festival This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an evening of international music and the second evening is a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together with the festival orchestra and ensembles.QD-4, Trg Republike Hrvatske, Summer stage, www.sansonasibenik.com.

04.09 Friday - 06.09 Sunday The Fair in Medieval Šibenik Travel back in time and see Šibenik as it once was with actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers, traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights, craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James’ Cathedral; this is when their spirit comes to life.QOld City streets and squares, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Luka Kivela

Šibenik International Children’s Archives

Summer schools 03.08 Monday - 12.08 Wednesday The 22nd Summer School of Organs Out of 19 organs in the Šibenik diocese, 10 are historical, 4 are monuments and 5 are modern. That is why this annual event gathers excellent international lecturers who are all renowned organ players and is educational with seminars and workshops. There will be concerts in the Šibenik Cathedral and surrounding churches.QJ/K-2, Organum Society, Mosećka 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 94, www.organum.hr.

County Events 29.07 Wednesday - 30.07 Thursday Vodice Jazz & Blues Festival There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of music from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the more contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz.

QObala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice, www.vodice.hr.

Starts at 21:30.

04.08 Tuesday Vodice Fiesta The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party type of atmosphere.QVodice, www.vodice.hr. Starts at 21:00.

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Culture & Events

Papaya Archives

The Garden Festival - Boat Party by Heather Shuker

Hideout - Papaya Archives

SUMMER BEATS So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight. We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north to south and will make sure you know the place, the date, and the headliners.

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds among the community in the era before mass media. That time has passed but the need to be a part of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on dancing and living!

ZAGREB Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with the event of the season and a grand gig by the large 16 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Papaya Archives

electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.

ISTRIA & KVARNER We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.

NORTHERN DALMATIA So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and Felix Krocher.

Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.

From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia.

For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th. For these few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.

CENTRAL DALMATIA Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson, and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .

SOUTHERN DALMATIA And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!

The Garden Festival Archives by David Bowen

Summer 2015

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Šibenik Pulse

Martina Krnić

We asked locals - who live or work in Šibenik - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Antonio Lučić Head of the radio show “Ritam srca” ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Antonio: I often drink coffee at the popular caffe ENIGMA, in Ražine (a suburb) because of its proximity, as well as the relaxed atmosphere and large number of famous people who go there. At the same time, it is also one of the places where on weekends they have live music and guest appearances. ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Šibenik?

Antonio: As some kind of mental map, for us who live in Šibenik, one of the places to relax is Riva, and in recent times the promenade, from which there is the most beautiful panoramic view of the city of Šibenik. It’s a place where you are separated from the city noise and yet it’s as if you are in the town. ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Antonio: Šibenik is a town, which can be seen on foot, and therefore all of the most important things are near the bus stop, ferry...a short walk away is an obligatory visit to the Cathedral, Kalelarga .. it is preferable to visit St. Michael’s Fortress, from where there is a perfect panoramic view of the city and the only way to get an impression of its size. As for activities, along with a visit to the old part of the city, I certainly recommend a mandatory visit to the National Park Krka, which is near the town and is certainly the most important place that should be experienced.

18 Šibenik In Your Pocket

ŠIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Šibenik?

Antonio: When it comes to shopping, you can find absolutely everything in several large shopping centers (e.g.

Dalmare) which has also become a trademark of the city because of all that it offers. For those who are not attracted to such places, there are some smaller shops in town, souvenir shops and the market are the main spots, on the route of every traveler, for shopping. Šibenik, in my opinion, is fortunate to have two souvenirs that identify the city in a rich way and that is the “ šibenska cap”, a unique trademark, or a relief of the Cathedral .. ŠIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Antonio: Of the specialties that are considered delicacies of this region there are certainly a number of dishes, no matter what the taste of the customer. It is recommended to try the roasted lamb (at Etnoland) or some dish ispod peke, and any grilled fish specialty. Of course a must is the Dalmatian pršut and Babić red wine, which is also a trademark of Šibenik/Primošten.

Gorana Barišić Bačelić Head of Department at St. Michael’s Fortress ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Gorana: Coffee at Vijećnica in front of the Cathedral, is for me, priceless. As for evening entertainment, so far I’ve had the most fun at concerts on the summer stage at St. Michael’s Fortress, even though I was actually working. ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Šibenik?

Gorana: The Mediterranean garden at the St. Lawrence Monastery is a wonderful place for the eyes and soul.

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Pulse ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Gorana: Walking Šibenik’s kalama, skalama i butama (Šibenik’s streets & stairs) is the best way one can experience the medieval spirit of Šibenik, and for those who want to enjoy the view of the city visiting the promenade St. Anthony is a must. ŠIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Šibenik?

Gorana: The best offers are at the shopping centers at the entrance to the city. A special souvenir of a silver Šibenik button, in all versions - necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, pendants ...

from natural ingredients, which in summer can be purchased at the stand near the St. James Cathedral. ŠIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Martina: Here it is really difficult for me to decide. However, I recommend that you try real homemade pršut or Skradinski risotto because of its special method of preparation of at least 10 hours and a rooster ispod peke.Q.

ŠIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Gorana: Everything with a scent of the sea ... :)

Martina Krnić Family member of Konoba Vinko ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Martina: During the morning hours, Konoba Nostalgia located next to the St. Francis Church near the city park.

They offer the best sandwiches in town, and along with the rest of the food, the service is excellent, and all that in a very pleasant and relaxing ambience. In the evening, dinner in the restaurant Pelegrini, near the Cathedral of St. James, is one of the best restaurants in Šibenik, and in Dalmatia especially because local ingredients and traditional dishes are offered in a unique, innovative way. After everything else, some concert on one of the small town squares. ŠIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Šibeniku?

Martina: For some real relaxation, I choose the Island Zlarin only 25 minutes away by boat from Šibenik. If you’re lacking the time to go to Zlarin you can stroll through the St. Anthony Channel and relax in the Mediterranean Garden of St. Lawrence near St. Michael’s Fortress.

Photo by Antonio Lučić

Photo by Antonio Lučić

ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Martina: I’m always up for walking, and greater distances may be shortened by bicycling. If you do not have your own bike, rental places are located at several locations in the city and surrounding area. While strolling through the city’s streets, it’s best to let them guide you to discover things that are not found in guidebooks. ŠIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Šibenik?

Martina: It’s better to spend less time on shopping, and more on enjoyment and entertainment. But, I like jewelry with the Šibenik Button, which can be purchased at several locations in the city and handmade cosmetics made facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Restaurants Kanela A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly more on the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most traditional of the eating establishments along Šibenik’s Riva, with an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns.

Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an open hearth that’s visible at the back of the dining room.

Veal or octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on offer if you order well in advance.QF-4, Obala dr.

Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 49 86. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). PiTNG� BXW Konoba Nostalgija It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the Ujević kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and very affordable menu where brunch sandwiches will get you prepped for your day out and dinner includes risotto, gnocchi, pasta, and fish galore. Rustic interior is grand, open till late, has WIFI and an outdoor patio.QF3, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (25 - 75kn).

PAGBXW Pelegrini Archives

Traditional Barun Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 66, matebarun77@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (85 180kn). PALGBW Dalmatino A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items used as décor. ‘Konobe’ or village taverns, typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways.QE-3, Fra Nikole Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 091 542 48 08, konoba. dalmatino@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 00:00. (70 150kn). PTJNGBXW Gradska straža Located on the waterfront in the Old Town, this adorable little restaurant has Mediterranean written all over the menu. Recommendations include goulash, stews, beef, cod, tripe, pasta, eel, stuffed peppers and more. The A La ‘Carte menu is nifty too as are the typical wines from the Šibenik area.QF-4, Uskočka 12, tel. (+385-22) 20 03 36/(+385-) 095 197 91 13, mariogojanovic111@gmail. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 130kn). TJAG� BXW 20 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Pelegrini Occupying a renovated medieval building just up the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contemporary design cool. Bruschetta, home-made ravioli and risotto number among the light snacks and starters, while the mains feature a lot of recipes that mix modern fusion (Teriyaki trout) with Adriatic tradition (red mullet with lentils). The wine list is extensive and offers plenty of choice when it comes to ordering by the glass. High quality cuisine and service, deservedly high prices.QC-3, Jurja Dalmatinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, rudi.s@si.t-com. hr, www.pelegrini.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 140kn).

PJAGBXW Rivica Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Rivica is a traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent.

QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 91, damiraras@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (40 140kn). PTAGBXW Tomaseo A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54, konobatomaseo@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (65 120kn). PTJAGBXW sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Zlatna ribica Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn).

PALGBXW

International Highlander Restaurant ambience with original Dalmatian iconography interwoven amid the rustic interior. With over 120 dishes on the menu, good luck choosing your meal and where to sit as dining is available indoors, out on the square or on the terrace. Their wine list is second to none when it comes to the finest local and national drop.QE-3, Pribislavića 1, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55 67, restaurant.highlander@gmail. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PJAG� BXW facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Stari Grad For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot.

As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and fish dishes.QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 28 64, starigradsibenik@gmail.com. Open 07:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (35 - 90kn). PiT� JAGBXW

Italian Gastro Italiano Si signor! Sizzling wood oven gourmet pizzas and other Italian specialties as well as traditional Croatian delicacies dominate the menu; that can all be trickled down with a fine choice of wines. Located close to the Hotel Solaris Resort.QPodsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris Beach Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94/(+385-) 091 490 99 88, gastroitaliano@yahoo.com, www.gastro-italiano.hr/.

Open 14:00 - 24:00. (35 - 125kn). PTA6LG� BXW

Lamb Marin Standing beside a major junction on the main ZadarŠibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stopoffs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to sample the spit-roast lamb - a specimen can usually be Summer 2015

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Restaurants seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figuring strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn).

ALGBXW Torcida This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads through Boraje. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!QDonje polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22) 56 57 48, info@ restoran-torcida.hr, www.restoran-torcida.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). PALGBW

Vegetarian Do-Ručak Craving a healthy breakfast or lunch made from organic ingredients, Do-Ručak is the perfect take-away which is located in the heart of town, opposite the City Library and Krešimir Park. Freshly squeezed juices, cereals, pastries, legumes, veggies and daily sandwiches are just some of the delicious delights.QG-2, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 4, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 19, dorucak.sibenik@gmail. com. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. VS Smoothie bar Nar Add some finesse into your healthy breakfast with a smorgasbord of cereals, fruit salads, yoghurts and ice-creams, as well as audacious smoothies and freshly squeezed juices that will give any person a boost for their day!QE-4, Zlarinski prolaz 1. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Beer halls Liro Recently opened beer house very much in the heart of Šibenik! Sizeable area with food and drinks served and beer available on tap. Live music indoors…QE-4, Trg Pavla Šubića 1, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 00, bilicpromet@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PTJAGBXW Pivnica Toni If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local musicfan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto the national stage. One 22 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

wall is reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen Petrović hogging the limelight.

The outdoor terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beerdrinking on summer evenings.QE-4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 78 60. Open 07:00 - 01:00. (15 - 40kn).

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Quick eats Buffet Penkala With functional surroundings enlivened by a huge fountain pen stuck to the back wall (a reference to Slavoljub Penkala, the Zagreb-based inventor of the fountain pen), this low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of homestyle cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QM-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69. Open 07:00 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). PiGW Buffet Šimun Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards.QM-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88, josip.simun@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 57kn).

PiTNGBXW facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Marenda A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.

QE-2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091 893 60 30, kmazalin@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 00:00.

Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). PiTJNGBX McDonald’s Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when we just can’t live without those golden arches. Dip your nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre.QP-4, Dalmare centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, sibenik@hr.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (7 - 40kn). PTAGBXW Šešula Sandwich, burger and fry-up bar on the seafront keeping Šibenik’s nocturnal revelers happy with late-night takeaway munchies.QA-2, Obala prvoboraca 14. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (15 - 55kn). BW

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Restaurants Konjevrate Konoba Vinko One word says it all - homemade! Visit this wonderful family-owned konoba situated on the road from Drniš to Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including famous Drniš prosciutto, Velebit cheese, and baked dishes under the iron bell to various rakija (grappa), liqueurs, cakes and deserts all can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QKonjevrate 67, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098 979 34 10, www.konobavinko.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (60 120kn). PA6LGBXW

Murter Boba Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on which food is prepared delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order it a few hours in advance.QButina 20, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 948 52 72, konobaboba@net.hr, www.konoba-boba.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (65 - 130kn). PA6GBXW Čigrađa With a terrace running along the side of cicada-serenaded Čigrađa bay, this is probably the most romantically-situated of Murter’s restaurants. The food is first class too, with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared to a high standard and backed up by potent local wines.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 05/(+385-) 098 46 19 87, cigrada@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 130kn). AG� BXW

Pelegrini Archives

Drniš Kod Baje This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a bag made from intestines) - a combined platter of the two is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. (30 - 60kn). PTNGBXW 24 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Fabro With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. If you are traveling out of season the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61, mudronjadamir@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PiAGBXW Kezo An unassuming doorway leads to a surprisingly large and homely space, with a pair of huge wooden tables at groundfloor level and an expansive seating area upstairs under the rafters. Kezo’s substantial and inexpensive pizzas are the most popular items on the menu, although there is plenty in the seafood and steak departments to keep more ambitious diners happy.QButina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 965 89 56/(+385-) 092 301 96 58, uokezo@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PiTAVG� BXSW sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Tic Tac The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu, although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.

With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening dining, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/ (+385-) 098 86 46 19, info@tictac-murter.com, www. tictac-murter.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 200kn).

PTA6GBXW Tunga Re Summer-only restaurant set back from the seafront in a small stone house - you may well have to wait before being seated. Most people come here for the tasty pizzas, although there is plenty of choice on a menu that also takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid.QTurčinova 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50 28. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(30 - 100kn). T6NGBX

Pirovac Nono Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies goodquality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered lid.

It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Pirovac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84, konobanonopirovac@gmail. com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 150kn). TAGBX

Primošten Kamenar An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Local Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest fish.QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, tomislav. jurin68@gmail.com, www.restaurant-kamenar.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 190kn). PiJAG� BXW

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Restaurants Mediteran A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.QPut briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/(+385-22) 57 17 80, u.o.mediteran@si.t-com.hr, www.mediteranprimosten.hr. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn).

PTA6GBXW

Cantinetta This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locallyinfluenced dishes such as rabbit stew and roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at least a day in advance.QAleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 11 83/(+385-) 091 150 64 34, cantinetta.skradin@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 150kn). PAGBXW

Torkul Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (including among other things nautical photographs, a life belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 06 70/(+385-) 098 33 75 15, tomislav.bonjolo@si.t-com.hr, www.konoba-torkul. com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). TA6G� BXSW

Vidrovača Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramaticallysituated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, although they should be ordered a few hours in advance.QVidrovača bb, BiliceSkradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75 72 81, vidrovaca@gmail.com, www.vidrovaca.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300kn).

T6NGBXW

Rogoznica

Zlatka If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant rosemary bushes.

The family-recipe pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39 09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 85kn). PTAGBXW

Antonijo Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogoznica’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish inbetween.

Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja 35, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54, restoran_antonijo@net.hr, www.restoran-antonijo. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 200kn). PAGBXW

Skradin Bonaca Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and only using the freshest ingredients - the owner is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric interior features exposed stone and brick with nauticallythemed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor terrace looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44, bonacaskradin@net.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 130kn). JAGBXW

26 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Zlatne školjke A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 22, zlatneskoljke@inet.hr, www. zlatne-skoljke.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn).

PTAGBXW

Tisno Broščica A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11, kresimir.cudela@gmail.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (28 - 110kn). PTAVGBXW sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Gina Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, gina@ gina.hr, www.gina.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn).

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Tribunj Šimun This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure. Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12, antjugov@mail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn).

TJA6GBXW

Vodice

By Gušte In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essenfacebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

tial in season.QMirka Zore bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75 93. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PNG� BXW Makina Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a traditional Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of traditional Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a peka-style metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured pastas. The adjoining Makina caffe bar is a popular spot for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live music acts generating a party atmosphere.QIve Juričev Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 00 15/(+385-) 095 440 01 55, vodice.makina@gmail.com, www.makinavodice.hr. Open 12:00 - 02:00. (25 - 150kn). PT� JA6GBXW Santa Maria Tortillas, tacos and burritos alongside pastas and steaks, please everyone. Engaging bits of bric-a-brac fill the dining room, with old cash tills, model boats, domestic implements and a confusion of paintings and photographs.

QKamila Pamukovića 9, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 33 19/ (+385-) 098 21 98 69, santamariavodice@yahoo.com.

Open 13:00 - 24:00. (70 - 140kn). PTAVG� BXSW

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Restaurants Islands

Wine Tasting

Aldura Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala 8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75, abiberica@ gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 00:00. (45 - 140kn). iT� 6NBXW

Bibich Tasting Room In the little village of Plastovo near beautiful Skradin there is a hidden jewel which has even had the famous TV food icon Anthony Bourdain visit not so long ago. The Bibich family have been producing wines for generations and these can be found in the finest restaurants across the US and Europe. Up to eight course meals are on offer for the entire wining and dining experience, not to mention the stroll through their serene winery.QPlastovo, tel. (+385-) 091 323 57 29, estate@bibich-wine.com, www.bibich. net. Open 09:00 - 17:00. PTA6LGBXW

Dalmata This is a traditional island tavern with a menu covering a customary selection of simple grilled-meat dishes alongside a broader range of seafood. Main courses range from inexpensive options like breaded hake fillet (pohani oslić) to finger-licking, push-the-boat-out delicacies like scampi and lobster. Choose between the small and cosy interior with large, curiously-shaped seashells hanging from the timber-beamed ceiling, or wooden-bench seating a canopied terrace overlooking the sea shore.QObala I 1, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 11 42/(+385-) 095 906 14 07. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). NGBXW Opat Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening. Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QLuke 47, Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385-) 091 224 78 78, dupin. opat@gmail.com, www.opat-kornati.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (100 - 500kn). A6GBXW Žut Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the specialities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, romano.milutin@ gmail.com, www.restoran-zut.com.hr. Open 08:00 23:00. (90 - 150kn). TA6GBXW

28 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Krešimir IV Caffe & Wine Bar Inside is a smart and stylish café-bar with an inner winetasting room with original medieval barrel roof and reconstructed stone arches. The wine list includes some of Šibenik county’s finest tipples, alongside some quality international imports.QF-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 53 00, alen@adriatic-nekretnine. com. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 00:00, Fri 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 00:00.

PTJGBXW Vina Rak Tasting Room Fancy a drop! Visitors and tourists alike can taste and sample the domestic production of authentic Šibenik wines such as Babić, Maraština and Rose, better known as Opol in the Dalmatian region and at the lovely Vina Rak Vinoteque, located in the heart of Šibenik.QE-2, Ante Šantića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 65 20 36/(+385-) 099 724 15 68, vina-rak@hotmail.com, www.vina-rak.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PJN Wine bar Kamerino Located in the old city centre behind St. James’ Cathedral, this exquisite wine bar with its chic modern design and exclusive offer of Croatian wines only, is integrated within the City Museum. The bar bears the name of its street location and where according to legend, the master Croatian Renaissance architect Juraj Dalmatinac used to live. There is a terrace for that breath of fresh air.QD-4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 43 33, ivo.mocic@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PTJNGBXW Vino&Ino A wine bar that houses over 60 wines from all parts of Croatia and is loyal to wines from the Šibenik area in particular.

What gives it that extra edge is that everything inside is Croatian made, therefore the owners also promote and sell products by several young Croatian artists (jewellery, clothes, sun glasses etc). The scent of coffee also prevails as the store promotes Croatian coffee, coffee cups and teaspoons.QE-3, Fausta Vrančića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 250 60 22, vedran@vinoiino.hr, www.vinoiino.hr. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PJA6G� BXW sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

Šaša i pulenta Vodice Tourist Board Archives

Local Dishes Fish and shellfish The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fish. Fine white fish such as John Dory (kovač), Sea Bass (brancin) or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served whole (complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using knives, forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white meat is an essential part of the experience. Fish on restaurant menus is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish that weighs about 300g-400g is usually sufficient for one person. Many restaurants do however serve individuallypriced fish fillets, aware that foreign visitors often find the whole fish-ordering process a bit confusing. The standard accompaniment for fish is mangold (blitva), a green vegetable full of healthy minerals.

Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or inćuni) are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent snacks or as an accompaniment to a round of drinks.

Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs.

The Šibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the water marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krka’s clear waters the local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than elsewhere in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant menus as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka is also famous for its freshwater trout. Another real delicacy of the Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as bižot), which is lighter in texture and taste than the more fatty eels found in the Neretva delta further south.

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Roast meats The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia provides ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nibbling away on grasses and herbs on the plateau between Šibenik and Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town routes frequently entice travellers to pull over by roasting a whole animal in the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by weight with on-the-bone cuts frequently included in each portion - so don’t be too shy to use your hands. Lamb is usually served with several shoots of spring onion.

The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal is under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka. The method requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to generate the heat. Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side pot and covered with the peka lid, which is then covered in hot ashes. The ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot start to cool. The whole process takes about two hours, and results in a wonderfully tender and succulent meal.

Maraština Maraština is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is common on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer so sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its growth. It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a discreet and pleasant aroma. At the 6th Wine Festival held in 2011 in Skradin, maraština took out all the major awards in the white wine category. Winemakers Dragutin Dobrović from Pirovac and Ivica Džapo from Oklaj received awards for the best white bottled and corked wines.

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Local Flavour of the 20th century have been returned to cultivation, and new saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes all around the region. Murter is a major centre of olive oil production, although most production is on a small family-farm level and it is difficult to find locally-bottled oil in shops. Many of the locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in the centre of Murter town in the summer months.

The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil which is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesn’t qualify for the ‘extra virgin’ label) but it does have a smoother taste and texture as a result, and is very good for general kitchen use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the island of Krapanj.

Wine and spirits Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast. The most common local wine is the outstanding red Babić, although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast. Biggest local winery is the Šibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which produces top-quality Babić alongside mid-price wines like Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table wines.

Skradin specialities Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski rižot (Skradin risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours (or two days according to some purists) and the rice being added only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish, cooked by the men of the town on the eve of a major feast day. Nowadays you will find it on restaurant menus in Skradin - although you should stick to the best Skradin restaurants if you want to eat a version of Skradinski rižot that has been authentically slow-cooked. Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally different kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is made without any flour the cake’s texture comes instead from the ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime ingredients. Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rose-petal brandy, it’s a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary discovery for those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit Skradin before. You’ll find it on the dessert menus of most of the town’s restaurants.

Sheep’s-milk cheese Typical of the Drniš area is sir iz mišine, a sheep’s-milk cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps’ gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it advertised on the menus of local restaurants.

Olive oil The whole of Šibenik county is covered in olive plantations.

Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half 30 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Become a wine connoisseur Who better but a qualified sommelier Jelena to give you tip top tips when it comes to wine.

Piližota Babić, Pirovac A great Babić wine from the Skradin area; the nose is empowered by a seductive cherry, pleasant yet distinctive scent. This is a very mature wine with specific earthy notes. Piližota Babić is definitely recommended, not pretentious, and will not let you down. A wine that seeks another glass!

Bibich Riserva R5 Skradin A great blend of Chardonnay, debit, maraština, pošip and Pinot Gris. The wine carries its weight and is extremely complex on the nose. It’s allowed to mature on its own yeasts and is cared for in wood. Thanks to this, it gets fine scents of butter, wood, vanilla... A wide glass is best used and is not too low in aroma. This is the kind of wine that you will enjoy with every sip you take.

Bibich Debit Skradin A great choice for the summer heat; light and full of fruity aromas due to a wide range of quince, sweet apples and herbs. This wine is extremely easy to drink and best expresses the originality of the Skradin area and the wines of its master winemakers. Best served with light white meat dishes and summer salads. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry white Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended wines, and international strains such as the quality red Sangreal Shiraz.

Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od ruža (rose-petal rakija) and liker od žižula (liqueur flavoured with berries from the jujube tree).

The Foodie’s Guide 02.07 Thursday Bakanalije Turn Roman for one night in Vodice and its surrounding fields which are a perfect backdrop for staging an ancient feast dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine and merriment. Participate in a parade of dance and song aimed at blessing vineyards and calling for a good crop. Reminisce the glory of Rome with ancient music, dance, recipes, food and wine.QVodice.

20.08 Thursday An evening of olives and olive oil The entire Adriatic coast is blessed with olive trees and producing olive oil has been tradition here since yonder.

This event gives olive growers a stage to exhibit and promote the variety of natural products made from olives including soaps, oils, scents, and more; some recipes are family secrets handed down from one generation to the next.QVodice.

23.08 Sunday Fešta o šaše i pulente Try a Dalmatian specialty which is prepared and cooked along the Vodice Riva according to traditional recipes. Šaša is a tasty salsa type sauce served on palenta - grounded cornmeal boiled in water; add to that some local spices and this was the favourite of all meals amongst farmers in the good old days.QObala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice, www.vodice.hr. Starts at 19:00.

04.09 Friday - 05.09 Saturday The 2nd International Prosciutto Festival After last year’s bonanza, this year edition ought to be bigger, better, and tastier than ever. Welcome to a competitive culinary event which has smoked prosciutto the essential theme, although there will be many other homemade foods to be tried and devoured. It’s great for networking within the industry and it’s even better when the sampling sessions come around’.QDrniš, www.drnis.hr.

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Tips for Hungry Travellers Baškotin A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!

Benkovačka vara Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.

Cheese to please!

Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their very doorstep.

Povitica Cheesecake A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).

Show us some mussels Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!

Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!

The island of Ist, ist good!

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majolino!

Try Pipi When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in our Shopping category!

What’s so salty…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

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Coffee & Cakes

Pelegrini Archives

Coffee Giro espresso One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.QF-3, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66, giroespresso@gmail.com, www. giroespresso.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PiTJNGBXW Gradska vijećnica With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out the cake of the day.QD-4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 05, ivo.mocic@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 01:00. TJA6GBXW Moderato Cantabile Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenikborn melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is something of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within. After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew. The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque.They serve cakes!QG-2, Stjepana Radića 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 36, cantabile-torte@hotmail.com. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. PTJNGBXW Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt Sv. Lovre café (The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence Café) If you value your daily coffee break as your personal moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD-3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+38522) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, cromobens@si.t-com. hr, www.spg.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. PJ6BXW 32 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Trapula Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers familiar international pop-rock territory.QB-3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 02:00. September, October Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PTJN� BXW

Out of town Leopold Much favoured by the locals for that all-important first coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numerous coffee breaks taken subsequently throughout the day) Leopold’s corner-of-the-square position makes it the ideal spot to keep track of comings and goings during the day - and provides a front-row view of the nightly-parade of sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the town in summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and chic elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murter’s other bars in the design stakes too.QRudina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 989 24 80, josipjuraga1@net.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00. PTNBXW Mirage A popular meeting place day and night, Knin’s premier café-bar is cheerful and chic in equal measure, with easy chairs the colour of orange peel arranged around circular black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling curving window looking out onto the main street below. If you can’t squeeze into a seat here then the similar Café Baltazar, in the same building, is a worthy alternative.QVukovarska 2, Knin, u.o.mirage@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PT� 6NBXW Popaj Of all Primošten’s cafés this is the one that comes nearest to your favourite friend’s living room, with a bright front space decorated with an odd but comfortable mixture of random furnishings. The garden patio with wicker chairs surrounded by lush Mediterranean plants is a real piece of paradise. The choice of background music (from Leonard Cohen to lounge-bar beats) is on the classy side too.

Q24, Primošten, tonko.cakic@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PTNBXW sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Club Nights Azimut Club This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene and is choc a bloc filled with detail, great ambience, old retro furniture, inner garden and more. Live concerts held each night with exhibitions and theatre thrown in between. Fits up to 400 guests so squeeze in and as the inner slogan says, ‘Find your way’.QB-3, Obala palih omladinaca 2, azimut@ artim.hr. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00.

A6GBXW

Hangin’ Out Domino This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and homely by a combination of low-key lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a pop-rock menu of background music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation.QB-3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-) 091 522 82 25, domic_01@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PA6EGBXW Kuglana Revamped and ready to roll, this bowling alley has had a makeover and is spick and span ready for the summer. Those wanting a fun night out with games galore will find haven here. Apart from bowling there is billiards, pinball, darts, TVs with sports channels and a nearby betting store. Live urban an alternative bands do hit the stage for entertainment on occasions.QK-1, Ulica bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 214 09 56, kuglana.sibenik@gmail.com. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

PENGBXW Public Bar One of the newest café and lounge bars in Šibenik. Choose to chill indoors or out on the terrace, the drink selection meets all needs and décor is neat, modern and futuristic with a black and white colour selection. It is a place to be seen.QK-1, Bana J. Jelačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 155 37 09.

Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PNGBXW Skipper Slightly cooler and less frantic than some of the youngsterfrequented bars further east along the Riva, Skipper is a smartly decorated and warmly intimate bar, with a nice mixture of white and wine-red furnishings and a strange blue-neon glow coming from under the tables. There is a decent choice of beers in bottles, cocktails in the 35-45kn range, and a something-for-everyone mixture of RnB pop and adult rock on the sound system.QA-3, Obala prvoboraca 12, tel. (+385-) 098 33 74 41, goranskipper@hotmail. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PT� JAENGBXW

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Aurora Club Archives (Photo by Nino Stojić)

Aurora Club Archives (Photo by Nino Stojić)

Out of town Admiral A circular space with chairs, private booths and high stools arranged around a central dance floor and performance area, this club offers a full and varied programme, with DJs spinning different musical styles on different nights of the week, live gigs, swanky fashion events, and racy cabaret shows that verge on what might be euphemistically termed ‘adult entertainment’. The open-air swimming pool directly above the club functions as a groovy outdoor lounge bar until midnight, providing the perfect place for a pre-club warm up.QUvala Soline bb, Marina Frapa, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 99 00, recepcija@ marinafrapa.hr, www.marinafrapa.com. July - September 15 Open 23:00 - 04:00. PTA6ULEG� BXCW Aurora Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatiallooking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, info@auroraclub. hr, www.auroraclub.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00.

July 10 - August 30 Open 23:00 - 05:00. A6LG� BXW Summer 2015

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Nightlife Basadura Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws the local islands into silhouette.QBadnje 13, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 733 71 25, basadura1@si.t-com.hr. Open 07:00 - 02:30. PT6GBXW

Opium This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs.QGrada Herforda, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 569 50 19, info@opium-vodice.com, www.opium-vodice. com. Open 22:00 - 05:00. September 16 - October Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PTJA6UEG� BXW

Beach Bar Lantana Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this improvised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a wood-burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter. May 15 October 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. T6NGBXW

Reful An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool table and classic-rock background music, Reful is a welcome antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised terrace looking towards Hramina beach, and wifi internet is available for 10kn/hr. Live blues and rock bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when the alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage.QSabuni 11, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 75 74 24, drazenm2@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. September 16 - October Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PT6LEBXW

Fjaka Bar Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel where one can enjoy excellent coffee or refreshing beverages, and at night one can night the pace picks up as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live bands. Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26, fjakabar.brodarica@ gmail.com. Open 08:00–01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–02:00.

PiTA6EGBXW Hookah bar Beach bar in front of the Olympia hotel with armchairs and couches set out on wooden decking beneath the pines, with the billowing curtains of its baldachins looking rather like a shoal of jellyfish. It’s the prime place for after-beach parties, with DJs and live musicians starting up in the late afternoon and never seeming to stop. It’s a popular place to see and be seen and the best tables are frequently grabbed by posing wannabes, but there is always some brazen hedonistic fun going on somewhere.QLjudevita Gaja 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 557 42 37, info@hookahbar.hr, www.hookah-bar.hr. June 01 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 02:00. TA6ULEGBXW Makina Exit A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t understand.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 196 67 19, makina.vodice@gmail.com, www.exit-vodice.com. June 13 - September 30 Open 23:00 - 05:00. PJENBXW 34 Šibenik In Your Pocket

The Legend’s Pub Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub - or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker.

The semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 02 77, thelegendspubprimosten@gmail.com, www. thelegendspub.com. Open 09:00 - 05:00. October Open Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PJA6EGBXW Woodstock Drniš may never quite make it as rock and roll capital of the world but Café Woodstock certainly mounts an honourable bid at the title. The interior walls are covered with all manner of photos featuring Elvis, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison and a fair selection of less mainstream musical names - this is quite possibly the only place in Šibenik County where you will ever see a framed Frank Zappa album cover hanging beside the door to the toilets. Semicircular booths with purple PVC seats make this a cool and comfy venue to spend an hour or two.QLovački trg, Drniš. Open 07:00 - 01:00. BX

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Sightseeing Every reason why one should not cease from exploration

Sightseeing Essential Šibenik Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Svetog Jakova) With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today.

Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innovative features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.

Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery of lateMedieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died before the reconstruction really got going. Much more refined

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in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a frieze of 71 stone heads - which appear to pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and have served as something of a trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac.

You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin.

Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the baptismal font.

Mass: June - August 31 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. September - May 31 09:00 and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD-4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Admission 10 - 15kn.

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Sightseeing

Saint Anthony’s Channel - Promenade See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new promenade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archipelago. Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. Anthony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of Šibenik!QJ/K-5, www.kanal-svetogante.com. Šibenik City Museum (Muzej grada Šibenika) A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the representative of the Venetian Republic would watch over Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum which only reopened its door for permanent displays after a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antique, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD-4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+38522) 21 38 80, tajnistvo@muzej-sibenik.hr, www.muzejsibenik.hr. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn, kids by the age of 12 have free entrance. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Churches Church of Our Lady outside the Walls (Gospa van grada) Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features extravagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00.QF-1, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 77. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun only during mass.

Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana) This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac.

Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a series of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s four-storey belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made

by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cherubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.QD-2, Put igrališta 21.

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Sightseeing St Francis’ Church and monastery (Crkva i samostan svetog Frane) Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Baroque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar paintings.

A doorway from the square just outside the church’s main entrance leads through to the monastery courtyard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of displays dealing with church history, and examples of the monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and books. Mass 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00. Mass in English can be arranged by appointment.QF-3, Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20 14 80, info@svetistesibenik.hr, www.svetiste-sibenik.hr. Open 07:30 - 19:30.

Šibenik Falconry Centre, Photo by Stipe Surac

Church of the Ascension (Crkva Uspenie Bogorodice) A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added.

The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in 1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox community ever since.

Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the interior contains an iconostasis studded with images of the Virgin Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the addition of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful modern mural of Christ fills the apse.

Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares performed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings - the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun 09:00.QE-3, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 47 45. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog Duha) Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit in the title. The church is closed for visitors.QD-1, Dinko Zavorović Square.

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St Lawrence’s Church (Crkva svetog Lovre) Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669.

One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (17041760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto, an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858.

Mass: 18:30, Sun 08:30.QD-3, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 09. Open by prior arrangement.

The New Church (Nova crkva) Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is so-called because it was one of the last to be built within the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: Sat 20:00, September Sat at 19:00.The church is open only during mass.QE-2, Ulica Nove Crkve.

Curiosity The Šibenik Rebus Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols - bird’s wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and gaming sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.QE-3, Dobrić.

Virtual Juraj Dalmatinac In 2013, this amazing Smartphone and tablet application won the international UNWTO Ulysses Award for innovation in research and technology in tourism. Once you download this free Aurasma application and point to the markings around the Šibenik Cathedral, the now ‘virtual’ Croatian Renaissance architect Juraj Dalmatinac will appear and retell you a story relating to his life and the Cathedral (Eng/Cro). You can also take a picture of others whilst he is still on screen.

For Kids Aquarium Šibenik Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. Twenty aquariums give you a close up view of fish to crustaceans, to sea stars and sharks.QD-2, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel. (+385) 099 212 58 19, aquarium.sibenik@gmail.com, www. aquariumsibenik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 27 - 37kn.

Happy Horse Farm (Kolan Horse Club) Amidst other farm animals the horses and ponies are the shining stars here. Visitors can choose from supervised horse and cart rides to adult and children rides. There is an open sports and recreation area and cute souvenirs to make your stay a memorable one.QDubravski put, tel. (+385-) 098 936 03 04, farmahappyhorse@gmail.com, www.kk-kolan.hr. Open by prior arrangement. Riding 100 - 150kn/h.

Galleries St Chrysogonus Gallery As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik.QD-3, Don Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, gkrsevan@ gmail.com, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija Gallery) The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery, intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old baroque building in the centre of Šibenik.QF-3, Petra Nakića bb, gkrsevan@gmail.com, www.galerija-svkrsevana.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

Landmarks Petar Krešimir IV (1058-1074) King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that did so. For this reason, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by the locals.QG-3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.

Poljana This broad irregularly shaped square is very much modern Šibenik’s focal point. It began life as the open space outside the town gates where horse races and archery contests would take place. The square’s most distinguished building is the stately ochre Šibenik Theatre, built in 1870 and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875.

On the other side of the Poljana stands the boldly contemporary public library, a wedge of modern glass and steel built onto the side of a buttressed 16th-century bastion.

Occupying a niche on the side of the bastion is a statue of the city’s protector, demon-slaying Archangel Michael.

QG-2, Poljana. Šibenik City Guards Experience Šibenik in its past glory where visitors can see costumed modern-day city guards re-enacting the works of old historical watchmen. All the original attire and weaponry makes this a true joy to see. This is held every Friday in front of the Cathedral between July 15 and September 1. Šibenik Falconry Centre Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city centre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction.

The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans.

The majority are successfully treated and returned to the wild.

Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with creatures that you would normally never see at such close quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of falconry.QŠkugori bb, Dubrava kod Šibenika, tel. (+385-) 091 506 76 10, sokolarski.centar@gmail. com, www.sokolarskicentar.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Admission 35 - 45kn.

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Sightseeing Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica) Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restaurant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD-4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.

Parks The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence (Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre) Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007.

Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Photo by Ivan DImnjaković

Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio. If you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration.QD-3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.spg.hr/eng/monaestry_garden/index.asp. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Perivoj Robert Visiani Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG-3. Šubićevac Park For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that characterizes central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ playground near the entrance, and good views over the south-eastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and Šubićevac.

QL-2, Šubićevac.

Religious Collections Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of St Luce (Benediktinski samostan Sv. Luce) Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours 17th-century benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery started.

QD-3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Open 10:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

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Dalmatian Zagora

Krka National Park Archives

When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) but also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture.

The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheeprearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although the term conveys a positive sense of hardy selfreliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland.

Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it’s also an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth.

The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’ legs from Trilj. As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly soughtafter. There’s also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple.

What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

Ten must-visit places in inland Dalmatia Drniš A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.

Imotski If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.

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Dalmatian Zagora Knin A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.

Qwww.tz-knin.hr.

Krka National Park With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.

Sinj A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracleworking icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.

Qwww.visitsinj.com.

Skradin Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.Qwww.skradin.hr.

The Cetina Gorge Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, whitewater sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.Qwww.tz-omis.hr.

Vrgorac Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and military captains (Vrgorac was on the border between the Venetian and Ottoman Empires) to serve as both living space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of 42 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Kokorići, full of traditional stone houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethno-village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.

Vrlika Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/ Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park. The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.Qwww.visitvrlika.com.

Zagvozd Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; July-Aug; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences.

Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.

Cetina Adventure - Ilija Veselica (Sinj Tourist Board Archives)

Alka - Branko Covic (Sinj Tourist Board Archives)

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Archeological Treasury

Burnum (Krka National Park Archives)

Croatian archeological destinations that should not be missed

by Jonathan Bousfield

What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often one historical site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide a spur to further exploration.

Zagreb and inland Croatia Krapina The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art museum that deploys film shows, multimedia displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves – but of human evolution in general.

Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA. Vukovar One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old, three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring these European ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.

Vinkovci The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headline-grabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes a recreation of one of the dwellings.

Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings has been reconstructed.

Zadar region Asseria Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times, becoming an important administrative and trading centre under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations. It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inSummer 2015

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Archeological Treasury spired by Roman-era residential quarters.

A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation, is the place to learn more about Romanera northern Dalmatia.

Šibenik region Burnum North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnum-amphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/en.html), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to have accommodated two entire legions. What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.

Split region Salona Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.

It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of earlyChristian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga.

Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/hr/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium contains one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.

Stari Grad Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone 44 Šibenik In Your Pocket

walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region Narona Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of how to display a historically significant archeological site while at the same time making it an entertaining place to bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper levels of the museum where display cases contain coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape.

Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals

by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.

Vela Spila, Vela Luka Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’, the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr). sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

Regata start (Betina Toursit Board Archives)

North of Šibenik

Vodice

The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide quieter alternatives.

Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the mostvisited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings. Vodice’s beaches consist mostly of concrete, gravel and pebble, so don’t get too excited about building any sandcastles. The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed. Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries - they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

Little Donkey Strong, surefooted and not afraid of the sun, the donkey was once such a common sight in Dalmatia that for Croatian people donkeys are synonymous with the region.

While the standard Croatian word for donkey is magarac, in Dalmatian dialect the word used is tovar, which is related to the word for loading goods or a burden. Inland folks unkindly refer to Dalmatian people as “tovari”, while the Dalmatians themselves (including Hajduk Split fans) wear the badge with pride. For centuries donkeys were used to carry heavy goods such as wood across the rocky terrain of the hinterland and islands, and many families had a few of the animals to help with regular tasks. Donkey hooves are smaller and tougher than horses’, and since donkeys can survive on the meagre grass and scrub around here they’re perfect for this terrain.Nowadays, of course, people have other ways of transporting things around, and ever fewer people live from agriculture. So the braying of a donkey has become a rare sound on our holidays, just a reminder of a disappearing way of life. However, thanks to a number of enthusiasts, there has been a revival of donkey-breeding in the past few years. Kids, of course, love donkeys, so they’re a tourist attraction in their own right. Some towns, notably Tribunj near Šibenik, hold donkey races - a fun evening out in the summer. And some folks are selling donkey milk for its health-giving and beautifying properties. (Cleopatra knew a good thing when she saw it).

So, if you see a donkey while you’re in Dalmatia, be sure to give it a friendly pat. Just don’t mention the word “stubborn”. We’d rather say the donkey knows it’s own mind and will be glad to oblige you - just so long as you ask nicely!

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Aquarium and Museum of the maritime tradition QObala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-22) 44 42 93/ (+385-) 098 35 30 63, 098 21 46 34, www.aquariumvodice.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Admission 15 - 25kn.

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

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Šibenik Surroundings Tribunj Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumbshaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay.

Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that features an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are splendid views of the coastline from the summit.

To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice.

Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey races that takes place every year in the first week of August.

The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999. There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to the southwest.

Tribunj Tourist Board QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, tztribunj@inet. hr, www.tz-tribunj.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June 20 - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Pirovac Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church.

Pirovac Tourist Board QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, info@ tz-pirovac.hr, www.tz-pirovac.hr. June 1 - 15 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. June 16 - August 31 Open 07:00 - 21:00. September Open 07:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Murter Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on largesized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and - although it can be busy in summer - it has a more 46 Šibenik In Your Pocket

laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns.

Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.

Tisno Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town.

There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by families who moved here from northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding countryside from the top.

Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls.

The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashingaround holiday.

Jezera A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.

Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still exists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling.

Murter With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Šibenik Surroundings jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest number of boats in proportion to the local population than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big repair yard.

Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of Murter’s stone houses.

Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea of what it once looked like.

There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully evocative spot.

Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direction.

Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive

crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats. Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lantana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road out of town and turn right when you see the sign.

Betina Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland (and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane.

Betina Tourist Board QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, tz-betina@hi.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Jezera Tourist Board QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, turistickazajednica-jezera@si.htnet.hr, www.tzjezera.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Murter - Kornati Tourist Board QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, info@tzo-murter. hr, www.tzo-murter.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Tisno Tourist Board QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, info@ tz-tisno.hr, www.tz-tisno.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

South of Šibenik South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the region’s biggest yachting marinas.

One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.

Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session.

facebook.com/ sibenikinyourpocket Primošten (Hotel Zora Archives)

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Šibenik Surroundings

Primošten Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach.

Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.

The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the resulting town became known as Primošten (which might be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”).

As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the peninsula town that visitors see today.

On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stoneroofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect the local population against atrocities by both Italian and German occupiers during World War II, before finally being murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15th-century parish church of St George.

Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are packed with bathers in summer.

Inland from Primošten Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of local families are returning to their ancestral properties and revitalizing the olive groves.

The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and whose family have been masters of the property for several generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a Summer 2015

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Šibenik Surroundings Agritourism Banovi dvori Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry. Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generouslyportioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot.QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, seosko. gospodarstvo-banovi.dvori@si.t-com.hr, www. banovidvori.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Etnoland Dalmati Enter a journey into the heart of Dalmatian culture.

Set in the serene village of Pakovo Selo, you are taken on a 2.5 hour award winning show through the village where you listen to ancient tales, see and learn about Dalmatian customs and traditions; walk through stoned houses, watch folklore dancing and more.

A three course traditional ‘all you can eat’ dinner is provided with roast under the iron bell, grappa, wine and prosciutto tasting. The show starts at 8pm and there are packages available which include transport at www.dalmati.com - Awarded the best tourist attraction offer in continental Croatia, 2012.QBilići bb, Pakovo selo, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 099 220 02 00, info@ dalmati.com, www.dalmati.com. Open by prior arrangement for groups only. Admission 55€ adults, 30€ children from 6-12 years of age, free for children from 0-5 years of age.

Skradinske delicije This family house in the village of Bićine above Skradin conceals a characterful konoba strewn with traditional household nick-nacks, with grandma’s old frying pans hanging from the ceiling and bunches of dried herbs placed at strategic locations around the walls. The menu concentrates on cured meats, Adriatic seafood and local lamb, although you should ring in advance to reserve a table. The family make their own honeys, rakija and marmalade - a selection of which are always on sale.QBićine Velike 31, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 48/(+385-) 091 520 93 30, info@skradinskedelicije.hr, www.skradinske-delicije.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

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restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more information see Agritourism box.

Primošten Vineyards The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by individual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature.

These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the 16th century, although extra impetus to their development was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced slopes.

Primošten Tourist Board QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, tz-primosten@si.htnet.hr, www.tz-primosten.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Rogoznica Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.

Rogoznica Tourist Board QObala Kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, rogoznica@tz-rogoznica.hr, www.tz-rogoznica.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Wen, Thu 08:00 - 15:00. June 15 - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Šibenik Surroundings Inland from Šibenik Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and endof-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia.

The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is covered under a separate section below.

Skradin Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bribir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684.

Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast.

Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood and some unique regional treats.

Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts, Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.60).

Museum Collection of Skradin QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 80. July - August 31 Open 18:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Skradin Tourist Board QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 29, info@ skradin.hr, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Skradin Tourist Information Centre QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, tz-skradin@si.t-com.hr, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00 20:00.

Pakovo Selo Twenty kilometres north of Šibenik on the main road to Knin, Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village famous for its sheep - and its tasty sheep’s cheese, sir iz 52 Šibenik In Your Pocket

mišine, matured the traditional way by being stuffed into a tube made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place on the global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic theme park that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional lifestyles of the Dalmatian karst. Just off the village’s main crossroads, Etnoland is a walled complex containing a collection of traditional stone buildings, each holding a display of olde-worlde furnishings that reveal something about Dalmatian life a century or so ago. Etnoland is geared up to receiving pre-booked groups, and individual tourists should reserve well in advance and be prepared to pay the full group price. The standard tour lasts about 1hr 15 minutes, and includes a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of pršut-and-wine tasting and a quick blast of klapa choral singing as well as a guided tour of the displays. Visitors can also book a 2-3hr slot that includes a full meal and folklore show. For more information see Agritourism on page 48.

Otavice Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists.

Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.

The Ivan Meštrović Museum – The Church of the Holy Redeemer QOtavice, Village Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Drniš Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin.

Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Ottoman-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night.

Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings (1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice.

Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promising local lad’s studies.

City Museum of Drniš QDomovinskog rata 38, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74. Open 08:00 - 10:30, 11:00 - 14:00. Sat and Sun closed. Admission free.

Drniš Tourist Board QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr, www.tz-drnis.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Knin Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent times the location of a major railway junction. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities. Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative complex of fortifications constructed at different stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological museum.

Knin Tourist Board QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, info@tz-knin. hr, www.tz-knin.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Museum of the town of Knin QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, kninskimuzej@kninskimuzej.hr, www.kninskimuzej.hr.

Open 07:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 - 20kn. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Šibenik Surroundings National parks Krka Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the Krka, the 75km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of 700,000 people a year.

About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and trekking routes are only now being developed.

Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host to various communities of bats, who play an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects. It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruined fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.

Visiting the park There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus.

The third is Roški slap (June - September 30 Open 09:00 18:00), although the road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 18:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Laškovica. (During the other months please check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours.)

Daily tickets (110kn adults, children 80kn) and multi-day tickets (220kn adults, children 145kn) can be bought at the National Park Information Centre in Skradin or from the entrance points described above. The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include travel on excursion boats heading further north into the park - these must be paid for separately

Skradinski buk Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year.

The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a reference to the noise generated by the water rushing over the rapids.

Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Ten of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricultural implements.

Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski belveder), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.

A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the second AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private company in order to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in his honour.

Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow water is the one part of the National Park where you are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself.

On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding.

Ključica Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is part of the fortification system developed by the medieval Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce was much resented by others in the region, and Ključica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century.

Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.

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Šibenik Surroundings Visovac Monastery Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the socalled Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey-green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least the 14th century, although the church we see today was built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is held in the monastery treasury.

Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.

Roški slap Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), although parking space is limited when you get there. As at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques inside.

Krka Monastery and beyond Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries.

It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs - although they are not always open to visitors.

Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.

North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.

Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east, and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol. It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment Burnum Just outside the park’s western boundary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settlefacebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Šibenik Surroundings

Kornati National Park Archives

ment. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

A footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the development stages Puljane Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon.

Franciscan Monastery of the Mother of Mercy (Franjevački samostan Majke od milosti) QVisovac, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr. Boat tickets 55 - 100kn.

Krka National Park Info Centre QŠibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 88, info@ npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Opan 08:00 - 20:00. September, October Open 08:00 - 19:00.

Public Institute of Krka National Park QE-3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. The Burnum Archaeological Collection QPuljani, Oklaj, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

The Monastery of the Archangel Michael (Manastir Krka) QCarigradska draga, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www. npkrka.hr.

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Kornati Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak across ageold pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980.

Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives or harvest honey - as well as fishing in the seafoodrich surrounding waters. The islands no longer have a permanent population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete seclusion. The Gospa od Tarca church on the island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats.

Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and returning towards 18:00. Almost all of the tourist agencies in Murter and Vodice offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300Kn per person, including lunch on one of the islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own boat - and a couple of days to spare. For yachtspeople, ACI marinas exist on the island of Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just outside it. Yachtsfolk will have to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings themselves, in some charter companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primosten. Or from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who are patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.

Kornati National Park QButina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, kornati@npkornati.hr, www.np-kornati.hr. Entrance ticket cost 150 - 3200kn depending on the size of the boat.

Islands The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

Krapanj Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the lowlying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s male population devoting their time to sponge-diving.

Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling sponge-themed gifts.

Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel Spongiola (see p.17) to find a small but entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20th-century air pumps.

Zlarin Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m).

Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral bracelets and earrings.

Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the pediment.

Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast, KUD Zora Betina (Betina Tourist Board Archives)

Brodarica - Krapanj Tourist Board QKrapanjskih spužvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 12, tz.brodarica@gmail.com, www.tz-brodarica.hr.

Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 21:00. October Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, Wen 17:00 - 20:00.

facebook.com/ sibenikinyourpocket facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Šibenik Surroundings and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the workroom next door. Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image of the Virgin.

Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors.

Etno museum Zlarinka QNiz Bebana bb, tel. (+385-22 ) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, zlarinka1@net.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:30, 16:30 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Zlarin Tourist Board QSunčana obala 14, tel. (+385-22) 55 35 57, tzzlarin@ net.hr, www.tz-zlarin.com. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Prvić In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements - Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west - Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and remains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617).

Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-ItalianGerman-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of

The Zlarin legend The highest point of the Klepac Island is 169 meters high and the church of Mary from Rašelj was to be built there. Things however did not go to plan - a group of people found a piece of wood with the image of the Madonna in Zlarin (the place of today’s church) and they took it up to Klepac to the place of the planned church. The next morning, that same wooden image of the Madonna appeared in Zlarin where it was found, and from there it was decided that that would be the home of the church in Zlarin.

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Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through the air attached to a square canvas parachute. English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice. A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane.

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!QPrvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28, www.mcfaustvrancic.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Kaprije Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants.

Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing.

Žirje Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring the island.

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Leisure

Public Institution for Managing Protected Nature Areas Archives

Beaches Banj The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a children’s playground, and more.

Jadrija Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi boat from the Riva.

Jadrija was laid out as the municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.

Biking There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly popular draws. In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site.

There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer. Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off-road trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves. Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.

Tickets can be purchased at the Vodice Tourist Office.

The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on the roads. At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have been marked. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Dalmatinka QZagrebačka 8, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 03 23, info@dalmatinka.hr, www.dalmatinka.hr. Open 09:00 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Eseker rent a boat QMajnova 14, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 56 69/(+385-) 098 48 09 50, eseker01@yahoo.com, www.esekertours. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Mateo Skradin QObala bana Pavla Šubića 6, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 59 19 93. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Tudić tourist agency QKrapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A Visit Vodice (Adriagate) QĆirila i Metoda 1a, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 21 01/ (+385-) 091 330 78 05, info@visit-vodice.com, www. visit-vodice.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Bungee jumping Bungee Jumping Leaping from the bridge over the Krka river is an amazing experience, or so those who have tried it tell us. An experience both for the person jumping, and for their loved ones watching with their hearts in their mouths. Fancy stretching out a few ligaments? On your own head be it…QŠibenik Bridge, tel. (+385-) 091 736 06 89, info@ bungee.com.hr, www.bungee.com.hr. July - September Open 10:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. 280kn (jump).

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Leisure Big Game Fishing Adriatic Big Game Fishing QNikola Subic Zrinski 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 923 50 26, info@game-fishing-adriatic.com, www.gamefishing-adriatic.com.

Fitness & Gym Life Wellness Centre QK-1, Bana Ivana Mažuranića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 07 16, info@life.com.hr, www.life.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun Open 15:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 -12:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A

Horse riding

Diving Center Manta QHuljerat bb, Primošten (Adriatic Auto Camp), tel. (+385-) 098 44 32 83/(+385-) 098 53 47 01, manta@ crodive.info, www.crodive.info. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

N Diving Center Tramonto QStjepana Radića 13, Tisno, tel. (+385-) 098 84 32 33, divetramonto@divetramonto.com, www. divetramonto.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Mediterraneo Sub QUlica Krapanjskih Spužvara 48, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 539 40 07/(+385-) 091 738 80 31, mediteraneosub80@hotmail.com, www. mediterraneo-sub.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Konjički klub Pegasus QMučići bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 585 32 31, pegasus@pegasus.hr, www.pegasus.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Najada Diving QPut Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 60 20/(+385-) 098 959 24 15, anna.nokela@najada.com, www.najada. com. Open 08:30 - 19:00.

Rafting

Vertigo Diving Center QHotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-) 098 20 90 73/ (+385-) 098 171 47 70, info@vertigo.hr, www.vertigo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Discover Dalmatia Tourist Agency QSplitska 12, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 64 37 75, info@ discover-dalmatia.hr, www.discover-dalmatia.hr. June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. A

Nautical Tourism The island-scattered seas of mid-Dalmatia have always been a major destination for nautical tourism, with the Kornati islands in particular serving as an enduringly popular magnet for yachting folk. Vodice is a major starting point for sailing flotillas, with a large marina in the centre of the resort and plenty of schools offering short sailing courses.

Both Vodice and the island of Murter are important jumping-off points for sailing trips around the Kornati islands, a beautiful maritime landscape that represents the holy grail of Croatian yachting. Murter island has marinas at Murter town and Jezera (with another marina being built at Tisno), while there are two more marinas in the Kornati islands themselves.

Vodice Dive QVenca Vlahova 15, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 919 62 33/ (+385-) 098 191 45 97, vodice.dive@gmail.com, www. vodice-dive.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Najada Diving Archives

Academia Navalis Adriatica Sailing school.QDonji kraj bb, Jezera (ACI Marina), Murter Island, tel. (+385-) 099 217 84 04/(+385-) 099 262 72 45, info@anasail.com, www.anasail.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Scuba Diving There are scuba diving centres throughout the region, although it is on the island of Krapanj - long famous as the centre of the Adriatic sponge-diving industry - that it has the longest tradition. Skradin, with its access to the sea inlet known as the Prukljansko jezero is an important training base for rowers, canoeists and kayakers.

60 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Najada Diving Archives

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Shopping centres City Life QL/M - 3, Ante Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www. city-life.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. W Dalmare QP - 4, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www.dalmare.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

July, August Open 09:00 - 21:00. W SP Supernova Šibenik QH-1, Put Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. supernova.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. W

Art Galleries Dana A place where you can enjoy the works of Croatian artists, painters, sculptors...A rich offering of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of glass and ceramics.QE-3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47, natalija.klarica@hi.tcom.hr. Open 09:30 - 22:30. J Lana Art A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE-2, Fausta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91, lana.martinovic. cala@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mokoš Family owned gallery that showcase their own form of artwork, in particular jewellery and sculptures.QD-4, Trg Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 098 75 38 17, jewellery@ inesvlasic.com, www.inesvlasic.com. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00. JA Zlarinka Jewellery made from red Adriatic coral is hard to resist and is part of both the traditional and modern jewellery vernacular of Dalmatia.QNiz Bebana bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87, zlarinka1@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. A

Delicatessen Bibich All the Bibich wines are for sale here, as well as local rakijas and delicatessen products.QFra Luje Maruna 21, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 15, galileo.skradin@gmail. com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Bobis Try their “lude torte” - or “crazy cakes” made from crispy layers, marzipan and spun sugar (warmed and spun by hand to form elaborate glassy shapes).QAnte Starčevića 2, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 84 91. Open 06:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Brkić Cutting and vacuuming ham domestic production.

QHrvatskih boraca 62, Vodice. Open 07:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. N Delikatese Vukšić This lovely deli shop at the city market is stocked with an abundance of local delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, olive oil, rakija and honey, as well as famous Slavonian kulen and homemade jams. A real treat for anyone’s tingling taste buds!QG-1, Ante Starčevića (green market).

Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Gracin A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage, rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od drače), plus advice on the amber elixir’s medicinal properties.QPut murve 4, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 091 510 08 19, rino.gracin@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

JN Iločki podrumi Famous quality wines from the renowned wine cellars of the Croatian north-eastern shores of the Danube River can now be found in their own store in Šibenik. Ilok has a long and proud history of wine making and bottling, and is well known for their exclusively sealed cork.QG-2, Sedam Omelića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 55 37. Open 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. A I-PAK A family-run dairy with its own herd of sheep, and a shop selling cheese - including local speciality sir iz mišine.

QOštarije 8, Pakovo Selo, tel. (+385-22) 86 43 55.

Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. N

Crvenkapa The Red Šibenik Cap You might see on your travels in the Šibenik area a distinctive orange-red skullcap worn as a part of folk costume or used as a motif for local restaurants and products. It’s part of the rich folk heritage of this part of the world and is decorated with black wool and silk motifs. If you’d like to nab yourself one as an authentic souvenir, here are the places to try: Liposava Kustović, Prvić Šepurina, Island of Prvić, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84.

Sister Fortunata at the Benedictine convent of St Luce, C-2, Sv. Luce 1, (+385-22) 33 83 24, (+385-) 095 878 19 17, June - September 30 Open 10:00 12:00, 18:00 - 20:30 and by prior arrangement.

Milena Perčin, Udruga Žena, Postolarska 3, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 091 591 53 96, zena.drnis.woman@ si.t-com.hr, www.zena-drnis.com (only on croatian). Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat on request. Closed Sun. Summer 2015

61

Shopping Kupi kavu i čaj Devotees to fine coffee and tea will fall in love with this wonderful store that sells homemade teas, as well as over 100 different varieties of coffee and tea from around the world. Supremo coffee from Columbia or Santo Domingo from the Domincian Republic are just some of the specialties. Here, one can also find local Croatian souvenirs and products.QE-2, Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 04, apex1@optinet.hr, www.kupikavuicaj.com. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. JA Nira delicije When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat products for you. Take out only!QL-3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree.

It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.QD-3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198 02 06, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

A Skradinske delicije As well as running a highly recommended restaurant (see p.51), this family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QAleja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www. skradinske-delicije.hr. July - September Open 08:00 18:00.

Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, tudic@ si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open by prior arrangement. June 15 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. N

Market Pijaca The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain?QG-2/3, Stankovačka 9. Open 06:00 - 13:00, Sun 06:00 11:00.

62 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Antiques Antique Market A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Saturdays during winter, but in the summer season it is open every day except on Sundays. It just may happen that whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you find a rare copy of your favourite book or an old pocket watch or painting that will capture your heart and extend your home collection of antique items.QD/E/F-2, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67, srecko.vuksic1@optinet.hr.

Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Souvenirs Čivljak This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatine - filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often elaborate in design.QE-3, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38522) 21 20 64, zlatarnacivljak@gmail.com. Open 08:00 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dallas Records The best place to find an abundant amount of original CDs both national and international to suit everyone’s musical tastes.QE-3, Kralja Tomislava 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 83, dms-sibenik@mars-music.hr, www.dallasmusica.com.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Deni Design Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and stones.QE-3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71, deni.design.nakit@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Sv. Kristofor A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious items.QD-3, Kačićeva bb. Open 09:00 12:00, 18:00 - 20:30 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. NP Krka Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE-3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Stari Pazar

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Hotels 4 stars Panorama QŠibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98, fax (+385-22) 21 31 11, hotel-panorama@si.t-com.hr, www.hotelpanorama.hr. 40 rooms (40 singles €49 - 84, 40 doubles €39 - 74). PiHA6FLGBKXCW hhhh Solaris Beach Resort QHotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, fax (+385-22) 36 18 00, info@solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr.

Open March 22 - October 28. 1323 rooms (54 singles €62 - 174, 589 doubles €79 - 193, 468 triples €81 - 165, 184 quads €91 - 220, 16 suites €114 - 340, 12 Junior Suites €181 - 380). PTHAULGKwW hhhh Tisno QZapadna Gomilica 8, Tisno, tel./fax (+385-22) 43 81 82, info@hoteltisno.com, www.hoteltisno.com. 9 rooms (8 doubles €60 - 190, 1 Junior Suite €150 - 260).

PZiARGCW hhhh

3 stars Jadran QE-4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 52, tel. (+385-22) 24 20 00, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr, www.rivijera.hr. 57 rooms (6 singles €57 - 78, 43 doubles €50 - 62, 8 triples €46 - 59). Prices are per person.

PZJHAGBKW hhh

Out of town Borovnik QTrg Šime Vlašića 3, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 97 00, fax (+385-22) 43 97 11, info@hotel-borovnik.com, www. hotel-borovnik.com. 61 rooms (5 singles €50 - 90, 40 doubles €78 - 132, 9 triples €109 - 185, 1 apartment, 6 Junior Suite €110 - 190). PTHAGKCW hhh Colentum QPut Slanice bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 11 00, fax (+385-22) 43 52 55, info@hotel-colentum.hr, www. hotel-colentum.com. 98 rooms (90 doubles €58 - 82, 90 triples €61 - 89, 8 Family Rooms €64 - 89). Prices are per person. PALGBKXCW hhh Hotel Complex Punta QGrgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 14 51, fax (+385-22) 45 14 34, sales@hotelivodice.hr, www. hotelivodice.hr. 312 rooms (309 singles €56 - 140, 309 doubles €34 - 82, 3 Junior Suites €232 - 298).

PHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh

Hotel Life QRtić 12E, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 81 28, fax (+385-22) 55 81 34, reservations@hotel-life.hr, www. hotel-life.hr. 18 rooms (6 doubles €160, 3 suites €250 - 285, 8 Junior Suites €210 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €350). PiHALGKDCwW hhhh Kristina QŠetalište Miše Sladoljeva 3, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 41 73, fax (+385-22) 44 04 73, hotel-kristina@si.t-com. hr, www.hotelkristina.net. 20 rooms (20 doubles 400 500kn). ALGBKW hh Maestral QRodina 1, Prvić Luka, tel. (+385-22) 44 83 00, fax (+385-22) 44 83 01, info@hotelmaestral.com, www. hotelmaestral.com. 16 rooms (2 singles €67 - 80, 10 doubles €104 - 124, 2 triples €150 - 179, 1 suite €156 186, 1 apartment €156 - 186, 1 Junior Suite: €156 - 186).

PiA6GBKXW hhh Mihovil QAnte Anića 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44, fax (+385-22) 66 44 42, slavko.zivkovic@si.t-com.hr, www. hotelmihovil.com. 32 rooms (3 singles 300 - 540kn, 27 doubles 400 - 640kn, 2 apartments 540 - 840kn).

PiA6LGBKXW hhh Miran QZagrebačka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 46 70 64, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr, www.rivijera. hr. 71 rooms (5 singles €46 - 83, 52 doubles €35 - 64, 14 triples €35 - 64). Prices are per person. ZAL� GKC hhh Olympia QLjudevita Gaja 6, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24 52, fax (+385-22) 45 24 20, prodaja@olympiavodice.hr, www. olympiavodice.hr. 241 rooms (215 singles €82 - 145, 215 doubles €55 - 100, 26 apartments €190 - 460). Prices are per person. PiTHAUFLGBKD� CW hhhh

SCATTERED HOTEL When local, live local! The main idea behind the scattered hotel project is to unite quality private rentals from Šibenik’s old city centre and give guests the chance to live amongst the locals, a truly different experience to being in your standard hotel. However, just as in a real hotel, there is a joint 24 hour reception desk situated on Don Krsto Stošić Street where guests pick up their room keys and receive all the necessary information on the hotel services and amenities.

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Summer 2015

63

Hotels

Skradinski Buk QBurinovac 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 17 71, fax (+385-22) 77 17 70, skradinski-buk@si.t-com.hr, www. skradinskibuk.hr. 29 rooms (3 singles 310 - 427kn, 19 doubles 487 - 670kn, 3 triples 612 - 800kn, 4 apartments 641 - 839kn). PiJAR6LGB� KW hhh

Zora QRaduča 11, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 58 11 11, fax (+385-22) 57 11 20, hotel-zora@adriatiq.com, www. hotelzora-adriatiq.com. 324 rooms (10 singles €56 155, 274 doubles €40 - 111, 7 suites €158 - 448, 33 Family Rooms €56 - 155). PTHARFGKDCW hhh

Spongiola QObala I 58, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 34 89 00, fax (+38522) 34 89 03, info@spongiola.com, www.spongiola. com. 23 rooms (8 doubles €60 - 85, 10 triples €60 85, 5 apartments €75 - 100). Prices are per person.

PiAR6FBKDCW hhhh

Hostels

Villa Radin QGrgura Ninskog 10, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 04 15, fax (+385-22) 44 02 11, hotel-villa@radin.hr, www. hotel-villa.radin.hr. 13 rooms (12 singles €100 - 155, 12 doubles €80 - 120, 1 Presidential Suite: €100 - 140).

Prices are per person. PiHALGBKCW hhhh Vrata Krke QLozovac bb, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80 92, fax (+385-22) 77 80 91, info@vrata-krke.hr, www.vratakrke.hr. 44 rooms (40 singles €40 - 62, 40 doubles €54 85, 4 apartments €81 - 118). PiHARULG� BKW hhh 64 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Globo QG-3, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 337 37 44/(+385-) 091 337 37 45, info@hostel-globo.com, www.hostelglobo.com. 46 dorm beds, 99 - 140kn per person.

PNGW Indigo QF-3/4, Jurja Barakovića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 01 59/ (+385-) 091 337 37 44, info@hostel-indigo.com, www. hostel-indigo.com. 20 dorm beds, 112kn per person.

PJRGW Mare QD-2, Kralja Zvonimira 40, tel. (+385-22) 21 52 69/ (+385-) 098 180 59 38, hostel.mare@gmail.com, www. hostel-mare.com. 43 dorm beds, 100 - 140kn per person. PJAGW

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

8

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

Zelena šljiva Green plum

Žirje

Muna

Zlarin

Muzejska zbirka koralja Coral museum collection

Otok Žirje Žirje Island

Jadrija

Maslina Olive tree

Zablaće

Crveni koralj Red coral

Marina Solaris

Otok Zlarin Zlarin Island

Gospa od Rašelja Our Lady of Raselj

Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Zubatac Common dentex

Soline male Lake Soline Male

K ra

Solaris Resort

Z vo nim ira

Marina Mandalina

BALDEKIN

Škrpina Red scorpionfish

Muzejska zbirka spužvi Sponge museum collection

VIDICI

Nacionalni park S. Ra dić Kornati a

Nacionalni

Morska spužva Sponges

Otok Krapanj Krapanj Island

8

Brodarica

Pu

ioc

a

33

Maslina Olive tree

58

Muflon The mouflon

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Red grapes

Airport Zadar 50 km Crveno grožđe

ZAGREB

Early Croatian cemetery Kosa

Starohrvatsko groblje Kosa

SPLIT

Šparadići

Split 50 km

SPLIT Crkva sv. Ana Airport St. Anna Church

Crkva sv. Margarita St. Margaret Church

Jadrtovac

DRNIŠ

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Jarebica The rock partridge

Ovca Sheep

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Vrpolje 58

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

SPLIT

Boraja

SPLIT

Nacionalni park Kornati

Ovca Sheep

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

Perković

DRNIŠ Danilo

Crkva sv. Danijel St. Daniel Church

Rider Rider

Nacionalni 50 km park Kornati

Zadar

Pršut Prosciutto Airport

ZAGREB

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

KNIN

DRNIŠ

Pršut Prosciutto

Airport Zadar 50 km

ZAGREB

Ovčji sir Sheep’s milk cheese

Etnoland Theme park

Tematski park Etnoland

Industrijska zona Podi Entrepreneurial Zone

A1

Zec Rabbit

Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church

Lozovac

Sokolarski centar Falconry Centre

Morinje

Donje polje

Grebaštica

Žaborić Bedem Fortification wall

Smokva Figs

Zec Rabbit

Entrance NP Krka

Visovac

Samostan Majke od milosti Mother of Mercy Convent

Crkva Gospa od zdravlja Our Lady of Health Church

33

Bijelo grožđe White grapes

Konjički klub Pegasus Riding club Pegasus

Smokva Figs

RAŽINE

Gradsko groblje Kvanj City Cemetery Kvanj tB

56

Entrance NP Krka

Dubrava

Konjički klub Kolan Riding club Kolan

SPLIT

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Marina Skradin

50 km

Airport

Zadar Skradin

ZAGREB

Žižula Ziziphus jujuba

Tvrđava Barone park - Šubićevac Barone Fortress Kornati

ŠUBIĆEVAC

SPLIT

8

A1

Tvrđava sv. Ivana St. John Fortress

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Crkva sv. Križ Holy Cross Church

Plaža Rezalište Rezalište Beach

AquaPark

Soline velike Lake Soline Velike

lja

Airport Zadar 50 km

Jarebica The rock partridge

MANDALINA

Srdela European pilchard

CRNICA

Tvrđava sv. Mihovila St. Michael Fortress

NJIVICE

Zapadna magistrala

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral

Plaža Banj City Beach

Šetnica Walk path

. An te Ka na l sv

Martinska

Pidoča Mediterranean mussel

Bilice

Zec Rabbit

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Prukljan

Jakobova kapica Scallop Pectinidae

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Crkva sv. Vida St. Vid Church

Raslina

Stipanac

Crkva sv. Mihovil St. Michael Church

Tvrđava sv. Nikola St. Nicholas Fortress

Kupalište Jadrija Jadrija Beach

Otok Lupac Lupac Island

Tržnica

Smokva Figs

Marina Zaton

Crkva sv. Roko St. Rocco Church

Maslina Olive tree

Prižba Prizba

Otok Zmajan Zmajan Island

Gradina Gradina Fortress

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Kaprije

Otok Kaprije Kaprije Island

Pristanište Dock

Bogdanovići

Crkva Gospa Srimska Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church Red grapes

20 nm

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

Zaton

27

Plava

Jedrenje na dasci

Bus station

Trgovački centar Shopping park

BENKOVAC

Vezovi Moorings

ZADAR

Nalazište

Plaža Beach

Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping

Ronjenje Diving

Benzinska postaja Gas station

Bunja domaćinova Bunja domaćinova

Kakan Island

Muzej Museum

Kamp Camp

Informacije Information Center

Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić Faust Vrancic Memorial

Otok Kakan

Otok Prvić Prvic Island

Prvić Šepurine Prvić Luka

Crkva sv. Jelena St. Jelena Church

Srima

BENKOVAC

Vodice

ZADAR

Crkva Gospa Okitska Our Lady of Okitska Church

Zec Rabbit

Marina Marina

Bolnica Hospital

Vodeni park AquaPark

Market

Šetnice Walk path

Biciklistička staza Cycling track

zastava Blue Flag beach

Wind surfing

Tvrđava Fortress

Hotel Accommodation

Katedrala Cathedral

Archeological site

Šibenik i okolica Sibenik area map

or a

Vepar Wild boar

a rpik Ško ira Veli m

az V. N

ZAGREB

la tra gis ma na Juž

istrala a mag Srednj

A

B

C

ŠIBENIK

plan stare gradske jezgre old city center map

1

2

3

4

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral Crkva sv. Ivana St. John’s Church Crkva sv. Frane, samostan i muzej St. Franci’s Church and Monastery Crkva sv. Krševana St. Grisogonu’s Church (Krševan) Nova Crkva New Church Crkva sv. Duha Church of the Holy Spirit Crkva sv. Nikole St. Nichola’s Church Crkva sv. Barbare St. Barbara’s Church Crkva sv. Križa Church of the Holy Cross Crkva Svi Sveti All Saint’s Church Crkva Uspenie Bogomatere Ascension Church Crkva sv. Dominika St. Dominic’s Church Crkva sv. Grgura St. Gregory’s Church Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church Crkva Gospe vanka Grada “Gospe Vanka Grada” Church Crkva sv. Nediljice St. Nediljica Church Gradska vijećnica The Town Hall Palača Rossini Rossini Palace Palača Foscolo Foscolo Palace Palača Pellegrini Pellegrini Palace Palača Gogala Gogala Palace Benediktanski samostan sv. Luce St. Luce Benedictine Monastery Crkva sv. Spasa St Savior Church

P Parking lot 15.1.1873.

D/E-2 17 buntovnika C-2 A. Zorčića C/D-3 Andrije Kačića C-2 Antuna Vrančića F-3 B. Fulgosi D-2 Biskupa Fosca F-3 Blajburskih žrtava G-1/2 Bonnina iz Milana E-2 Božidara Petranovića E-2/3 Braće Polić D-1/2 Bregovita B/C-1 Bukovačka C-3 Buta Har. Bilinića B/C-3/4 Crnica A-1 Dobrić E-3 Dolac B-3 Don Krste Stošića D/E-3 Dragojevićeve stube D-3 Eugena Kvaternika G-3 F. Dismanića D-3

F. Divinića Fausta Vrančića Fra Nikole Ružića Fra S. Zlatovića Grgura Ninskog H. Fortenezze I. Mrnavića Istarska Ivana Pribislavića Ive Zaninovića J. Barakovića J. Mondelle J. Utješanovića J. Petrovića Jurja Dalmatinca Jurja Šišgorića Kninska Kralja Tomislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Krste Stošića

D-3/4 E-2 E-3 G-3 E-2 E-3 C-3 C/D-1 E-3 A/B-1 F-3/4 A-2 D-3 D-2 B/C-3 F-3 D-2 E/F-3 C/G-3 F-2 D/E-3

Pharmacy

M. Kolunića C/D-3 Mali prolaz C-3 Mesarske stube E-3 Miminac F-1/2 Mulo Krke G-4 Nikole Tesle F/G-1 Nikole Vladanova D-2/3 Nove crkve E-2 Obala F. Tuđmana E/F-4 Obala hr. mornarice G-4 Ob.palih omladinaca B/D-4 Obala prvoboraca A-2 Paške Zjačića E-1 Pekarska E-3 Perivoj Roberta Visianija G-3 Petra Nakića F-3 Pod tvrđavom C-3 Poljana F/G-2 Prolaz kroz zidine A-2 Prominska C-3 Prvička D-4

Information Center Put groblja C-2 Put Splita F-2 Put Tanaje C-1 Put tvrđavama D-1 Put Vuka Mandušića E-1 Riječka F/G-2 Sarajevska G-3 S. Čulinovića D-3 Skoka D-2 Skradinska D-2 Splitski put G-3 Srimska A-2 St.P.Kaera D-4 Stara cesta C-1 Starog kazališta E/F-2 Strme stube D-3 Stube A. Medulića D-3 Sv. Julijana E-3/4 Sv. Križa A-2 Sv. Luce D-3 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-3

Accomodation

Toilets

Sv. Spasa G-1 Šubićev. šetalište E/F-1 Težačka E/F-1 Tijatska C/D-1 Trg Dinka Zavorovića E-3 Trg I. G. Kovačića F-3 Trg Ivana Pavla II E-3 Trg Julija Skjavetića F-3 Trg kralja Držislava F-2 Trg Nikole Tommasea F-3 Trg palih Šib. boraca E-3 Trg Pavla Šubića E-4 Trg pućkih kapetana D-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-4 Ul. Sedmog kontin.

D/E-1 Ul. Graditelja D-2 Ul. gradska vrata D-4 Ul. Petra Grubišića G-1/2 Ul. Vladimira Nazora G-2/3 Uskočka F-4 Varoš E-2

D

E

F

G

Night life Vodička Vukman Z.Bege Zadarska Zagrađe Zagrebačka Zatonska Zlarinska

E-3/4 E-1 E-1 D-1, E-2 A/B-2 E/F-3 B-2 E-4

Photo by Ivo Pervan for Public Institution for Managing Protected Nature Areas of Šibenik-Knin County