Šibenik In Your Pocket City Guide No9

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Šibenik Summer 2019

Tune in to Summer Events not to miss, locations that bliss

N°9 - complimentary copy sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Top summer events

5

Boatbuilding Tradition

10 12 20

What a pleasure

Nightlife

22

Bop ‘till you drop

Sightseeing 25 Snap, camera, action

Family Fun

50

Shopping

51

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Lunch or dinner, you pick

Coffe&Cakes

32

A day out for a family

Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding

Restaurants

Surroundings Nature paradise

A pick’n’ list to brighten your stay

Arrival & Getting Around

53

Lost? Have no fear, IYP is here

Šibenik Basics

56

All the things you need to know about Šibenik

Maps County map City centre map

57 58

A stained glass window as seen in St James’ Cathedral. The cathedral saw a brand new multimedia interpretation centre open this year, Civitas Sacra, in the restored Galbiani Palace.

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Foreword Šibenik is a town on the upswing; a real architectural jewel and yet not as exposed as Zadar and Split. It has its own unique atmosphere: relaxed and carefree.

It’s a city that has been — and continues to be — used as an inspiration for countless musicians, composers and songwriters. Its charm lies in the cobblestone streets and the inevitability of interacting with locals. There’s no specified tourist zone, as the whole city is a museum that begs to be explored. And topping things off is the fabulous Cathedral built by Juraj Dalmatinac, a UNESCO world heritage site.

The city’s fortresses provide breathtaking views that relieve stress, while an afternoon swim at either Jadrija or Banj beach is a good way to prepare for a night whilst cruising the town’s many cafes. Speaking of night, in recent years Šibenik has been dubbed with the slogan ‘the city is a stage’ due to so many gigs and events taking places in and around city streets and corners through to fortresses and squares.

Then of course, if you need a little more adventure on your holiday, the surrounding area is filled with national parks and islands that are waiting to be discovered.

No matter what you choose, we wish you an extended and warm summer holiday in the hope that you will take advantage of everything this grand city has to offer!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1848-0365 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Šibenik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research Dora Gaćeša Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Kornati National Park Archives, Novena, Ervin Šilić Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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The Pavle Miljenović Quintet, playing at this year’s OFF Jazz & Blues Festival

Top Summer Events Essential guide to the summer events in Šibenik and surroundings which you mustn’t miss... from classic and traditional, to urban and active

Top Summer Events 15.06 - 29.06 » International Children’s Festival

Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its performances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes, puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and painting. So there are workshops galore, educational training, world presentations and more! The event is spread across different areas of the city.Qwww.mdf-sibenik.com.

20.06 - 14.09 » Summer at St. Michael’s Fortress

Have you ever been to an open-air stage event by the sea and within a centuries old fortress? If not, then now is your chance and this year’s smashing summer line-up has something for everyone. Highlights include the Comedy Fortress Festival as well as concerts by the likes of English indie and folk rock singer Michael Kiwanuka, through to Jacob Collier, an English singer and multiinstrumentalist, and that’s just the beginning. Qwww. tvrdjava-kulture.hr.

02.07 - 06.07 » Solo Positivo Film Festival

Nothing more positive then celebrating your 10th year anniversary which is the case here! Solo Positivo always spreads good vibes with a culmination of top documentary films, good movies and culinary specials. It’s the spontaneity that keeps things fresh with award-winning directors turning up, international and regional musicians and bands across various genres too.Qwww.spff.hr.

13.07 - 12.09 » Traditional Acapella Evenings

One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor).

Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening in the Šibenik square.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II, www.sibenik-tourism.hr/en. Every Thursday.

22.07 - 27.07 » Šibenik Dance Festival

What a line-up! For the very first time, the Xiexin Dance Theatre from Shanghai performs their masterpiece ‘From In’, a modern dance production based on selfdiscovery and our correspondence to one another.

Workshops will be conducted by some amazing stars that include Kate Jablonski (USA), Maciej Kuzminski (Poland), as well as Hu Shengyuan and Xie Xin (China).

Book in advance with more information at www.sibenikdancefestival.com.Qwww.sibenikdancefestival. com.

18.07 - 20.07 » Off Jazz & Blues Festival

This three day bonanza hosts two acts per night. The festival kicks off with Macedonian master musicians ‘Kabadayas’, known for their rhythmic expression and jazz.

Hometown heroes ‘Mi Group’ will follow. The second evening has talented Croatian pianist Zvjezdan Ružić team up with Vocals soloist Neli Andreev and the Bulgarian female ‘Nusha Choir’, and straight after them is the best Croatian drummer Branimir Gazdik. The climax to the event is led by the Pavle Milijenović Quintet and Latino jazz band ‘Cubismo’. QF‑3, Trg Ivana Gorana Kovačića, 100kn daily ticket, 200kn festival ticket, www.offfestival.net.

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Top Summer Events 18.07 - 21.07 » The 17th Seasplash Festival

One of Croatia’s top festivals is heading further south and to the Martinska beach, across from the historic city of Šibenik.

The sounds of reggae, dub, drum and bass, jungle, ska and punk will travel across the waves over these four days. Artists include Lee Scratch Perry, Mad Professor, Dub Pistols, Vibronics, Cause4Concern and dozens more. The opening gig will be at St. Michael’s Fortress where the New York Ska-Jazz Ensemble will perform with support acts. What a cracker! Check out the web for more info which includes camping options.

QMartinska Cape, www.seasplash-festival.com/en.

02.08 - 03.08 » NOX Festival

Summer peaks in August and you ought to come knocking at the entry doors to NOX, one of Dalmatia’s top electronic dance festivals. The serene Martinska beach area is home to two stages that will be hallowed by the likes of Juan Atkins, Red Axes, Petar Dundov, Coeus, DJ Jock, Lawrence Klein, with more to follow. Break open those fluorescent bracelets and bop away to the grooves under the starry skies!QMartinska Cape, www.noxfestival.com.

10.08 21:30 » Meritas

Croatian duo Anita Valo and Meri Jaman are ‘Meritas’, two women who have combined pop, soul and a combo of other genres to produce their own sound. In their 20 years together (marked last year) they have produced a number of hits, each with distinctive and recognisable style. QC‑3, Azimut Club, Obala palih omladinaca 2, www.facebook.com/Azimut.sibenik.

16.08 - 17.08 » Šibenik Chanson Festival

This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an evening of international music and the second evening is a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together with the festival orchestvra and ensembles.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske, www.sansona-sibenik.com.

08.08 - 11.08 » Membrain Festival

Dedicated to Bass Music where one can sense the vibe of the underground club scene blending into the summer Mediterranean outdoors. Two total opposites that attract! It takes place at the Martinska cape with different packages available. Camping too! Four days, three stages and over 80 DJs from across the globe with headliners Loxy, DLR, Pessimist, Overlook, Clarity, Ruffhouse and many others.QCape Martinska, www. membrainfestival.com. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Top Summer Events Top county events 02.08 - 04.08 » SuperUho Festival

In its sixth year, the SuperUho Festival takes place in Primošten and is close to one of the most stunning beaches along the Adriatic.

With a line-up honouring the NO Jazz Festival, it’s brings forth Mark Ribot, Art Brut, Colin Stetson, Shilpa Ray, Chui, The Fogsellers and many more genre crossing acts to stage. Don’t forget, camping is available and free WI-FI too!QPrimošten, 250 - 320kn, www. superuho.com.

16.05 - 30.09 » Free bike tours

In the town of Vodice, Free Bike Tours will be held every Thursday starting from the 16th of May. In cooperation with Karika Bike Tours and the Vodice Tourist Board, the cycling tour named, ‘Trip through the history of Vodice’ takes visitors through fields, vineyards and olive groves, where they get the chance to learn more about the local cultural heritage. Make sure to book your date as group is limited to 12 participants.Qwww.vodice.hr.

Every Thursday.

23.06 - 31.08 » Primošten weddings and folk dances by the Krč Cultural Society

See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old from the Primošten area. Witness the parade where all the participants are dressed in costume and dance traditional folklore on the main square.Qwww.tz-primosten.hr. Every Sunday.

24.07 - 31.07 » SuncéBeat 10

Ten years running, the beats bounce on at Suncebeat with a feast of world DJs, party starting live acts and guest PA’s to help make sure that punters get that heartfelt experience. With underground House, Disco, Techno, Soul, R&B and Funk sounds, choose to chill at either the Beach Stage, Main Stage and the Olive Grove.

Look out for Kerri Chandler, David Morales, The Black Madonna and Kenny Dope.Qwww.suncebeat.com.

07.08 » Awakening of the Dragon

04.08 » Vodice Fiesta

The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party type of atmosphere. QVodice, Riva, www.vodice.hr.

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A unique staging of the ancient legend of ‘Lake Dragon Eye’ and the dragon named Murin, which will be held along the Rogoznica waterfront. Witness a story of true love that transforms the world, a story of courage, love, loyalty, and the triumph of good over evil. A fairy-tale world of dragons, wizards, knights and maidens, and become part of the legend.Qwww.loverogoznica.eu.

04.08 » Brganja Day

A brganja is a traditional tool which is used to gather shells from the seafloor. Brganja Day is a day full of good food, good music, fireworks, and of course shells. There’s also a special regatta - Dlan i veslo or Palm and Paddle - which sees the womenfolk race in old traditional wooden boats. Fun for all and then some!QBetina, Murter Island, www.tz-betina.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding

Cicibela gajeta

For long stretches of history Croatia’s Adriatic coast has been a major player in maritime history, developing trade networks, building boats, and nurturing shipping dynasties. Dubrovnik in particular can boast an illustrious past as a global mercantile power, but this is only one part of a rich and varied story. The port of Orebić, the island of Silba and the harbour at Veli Lošinj all served as major maritime trading hubs right up until the nineteenth century.

There were shipyards all over the place, turning out sailing ships in all shapes and sizes. The introduction of steam ships spelled the end for the Adriatic sailing captains, and Croatia’s sail-powered seafaring culture is nowadays the subject of museum displays and heritage regattas. The skills of wooden shipbuilding are still retained at certain key places along the Adriatic coast, and growing interest in this heritage has led to a renewed appreciation of boatbuilding tradition.

One of the towns which has a long boatbuilding tradition is Betina, a sprawling coastal village that spreads itself over the northeastern corner of Murter island. It is a heritage celebrated in the Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding, opened in 2015 and already one of the most popular visitor attractions in northern Dalmatia. In May 2018 the museum won the European Museum Forum’s Stiletto Prize, awarded annually to museums that have done most to engage with the local community.

Boat-building in Betina probably took off in the 18th century with the arrival of a shipbuilding family from Korčula.

Together with the neighbouring town of Murter, Betina was home to a seafaring community in which every family 12 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Inside the Museum

was involved in fishing, merchant shipping, or sheep herding on neighbouring islands. Many folk on the island of Murter owned land on the Kornati archipelago, which necessitated constant travel across the water. Due to the lack of decent roads, Murter people went to Šibenik or Zadar by sea whenever they needed to attend to their business.

They even took to their boats when attending weddings and feasts. Everybody needed a boat, in other words, and boat-building became a hugely important sector of the local economy. Betina is one of the few places in Dalmatia where wooden shipbuilding is still practiced, and the timber skeletons of work-in-progress can still be seen on the shoreline slipways that can be seen all along the coast.

The Gajeta, the neat, robust and maneuverable sail-boat for which Betina became famous, was probably developed from Korčula models and adapted to suit local needs. The gajeta wasn’t just designed for fishing, but also for taking livestock to and from the Kornati islands and to transport goods and produce to big-city markets. The leut, a 12-metre cargo boat common to much of Dalmatia, was also made here.

Betina shipbuilders initially made boats for the local community but grew in time to become the main regional suppliers of ships, serving clients all over northern Dalmatia. During the inter-war years, faced by declining demand for wooden sail-boats,Betina shipbuilders opened branches in other towns (such as Kali on the island of Ugljan or Sukošan near Zadar) in an attempt to retain their dominance in the north-Dalmatia market. After World War II the Betina yards were nationalized and refocused on the sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding construction of bigger, motor-powered ships. The emergence of plastic-hulled boats reduced further the demand for the traditional wooden affairs made in Betina, however, and nowadays Betina’s yards concentrate on carrying out repairs on wooden boats or constructing small wooden boats for individual clients. The traditional gajeta is still produced here, but is nowadays adapted for the use of an outboard motor a well as retaining its single triangular sail.

The museum plays an important role in the local community because it educates current generations about traditional skills which, although still used, are no longer practiced by the majority. The local community played an important role in providing the museum with exhibits, rescuing boat-making tools from their workshops, passing on family photographs of boats both under construction and under sail. Pretty much everything on display was donated by local people, and much of the museum’s narration was provided by individual memories. Many local people appear in the films and visual materials which form such an important part of the display.

The preservation of working, seaworthy craft is an important part of the museum’s mission. Historic boats belonging to the museum collection are moored in the village’s new harbour to provide an outdoor, publicly-accessible extension to the display. There are over 50 craft bobbing

up and down at anchor, including not just examples of the gajeta but also the smaller, oar-powered vessels known as kaići and lađe.

One of the most cherished exhibits in the open-air section is Cicibela, a typical example of a traditional gajeta made on the island of Ugljan in 1931. It’s a boat that comes with a considerable amount of history, having been used to shuttle refugees from the Dalmatian mainland to the Kornati islands under the cover of night during World War II. It survived to become a tourist taxi-boat in the 1960s, was subjected to shell damage during the Homeland War of 1991-5, and was finally restored to take its place in the new museum in 2017.

The idea of the Betina gajeta as a part of living tradition is celebrated every August with the Regata za dušo i tilo (“Regatta for soul and body”), when as many as 70 of the craft hoist their sail and set off into the blue yonder. With the event rounded off with an evening of music and feasting, it’s a great time to be on the island.

The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding (www. mbdb.hr) is open daily June-Oct and from Monday to Friday Nov-May. Check the website for exact times.

Written by Jonathan Bousfield

Wooden construction of Betina gajeta

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Restaurants feel to it with refreshing juices too, and the service with a smile is a worthy mention.QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-) 098 945 13 78. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 09:0022:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. (70-110kn). A­P­B Bounty Dolac A simple and pleasant place on the waterfront where you will find freshly prepped meals from breakfast to dinner.

Menu highlights include beef burgers, vegetarian falafel, home fries, fresh fish and a whole lot more. Prices are pocket-friendly knowing you’ll walk away content.QA‑2, Obala prvoboraca 28, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 49. Open 12:00-15:00,18:00-22:00. (25 - 130kn). A­P­T­S­V ­i

Konoba Vinko Archives

Upscale Pelegrini Occupying a renovated medieval building, just up the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, a Michelin Star owner Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contemporary design cool.

They create personalised high-end gastronomic experiences, rich with flavours and aromas of gastronomic heritage. Dishes are made using local ingredients and fresh seafood, while sommeliers create daily wine selections to best fit the season and condition of each wine. For lunch, guests choose a minimum of 3 courses, while for dinner the minimum is 5 courses. Tasting menu is available upon request.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, www.pelegrini.hr. Open 12:00-15:00,18:30-24:00; closed Mon. (440 - 830kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Barun Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. From July Open 12:00 - 23:00. (140 - 530kn). A­P­G­B­L­W Bazza Choose from eating in or out in their courtyard; choose from eating breakfast through to dinner. The choice is yours and there’s plenty of it on the menu which includes seafood, wok cooked dishes, scrumptious desserts that include raw cakes and more. A lot of the menu has a healthy 14 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Buffet Šimun Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards.QFra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (40 - 60kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W ­i Dalmatino A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items used as décor. Konobe (village taverns) typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways.QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 76. Open 11:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 01:00. From July Open 19:00 - 01:00. (90 - 200kn).

N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W Gastro Italiano With over 20 pizzas to choose, you can’t lose! For over 15 years this eatery has prepped dishes with quality and carefully selected foods along with their ‘old school’ cooking recipes. Seafood and meats pack the menu with gems like chicken filled with prosciutto in shrimp sauce and homemade croutons. Tuna and salmon steaks on the grill are popular not to mention the homemade bread served for free with every meal ordered. QPodsolarsko 78 (next to Amadria Park), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94, www.gastroitaliano.hr. Open 13:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. (40 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W Konoba Nostalgija It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the Ujević kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and affordable menu for either lunch or dinner with local ingredients and local wine top on the list! Cheese and meat platters, fish sorts and soups are highly popular, liquors and homemade cakes too. Quality overrides quantity here and the rustic interior is grand.QF‑3, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06, www. nostalgija-sibenik.com. Open 12:00-22:00. (70 - 130kn).

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Restaurants

Marenda A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.

QE‑2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091 893 60 30. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (19 - 45kn).

N­P­G­X­T­B­J ­i Peškarija The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a pleasant terrace with a sea view.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 4, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27. Open 11:00-23:00.

From June 15 Open 11:00 - 01:00. (80 - 220kn). A­P­ G­B­L­J­W Petrus - Adriatique Beach Club You’ll think you’re in a movie upon visiting Petrus, a complex pocketed on Banj Beach which consists of a top restaurant, a cafe bar and a nightclub. The spacious terrace offers unforgettable views of the city and Adriatic seashore. Food wise, the menu is a crossover between European and Mediterranean cuisine with a great choice of pizzas for everyone’s taste buds.QA‑2, Prilaz tvornici 35, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 47/(+385-) 092 330 29 92. Open 08:00-04:00. (70 - 280kn). A­P­T­B­L­J­W­K ­i facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Pjat From morning till night, go to Pjat for a bite! With a smashing Dalmatian cuisine, the daily classic menu includes the likes of shrimp and tuna pâtés, tartar tuna steak, goulash with homemade noodles, truffles and pancetta fries, local pašticada, chocolate or forest fruit waffles, scrambled eggs with ham and cheese, and more. Dine in or out on the terrace with friendly staff ready to take your order.

QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića I 3, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37 80.

Open 08:00-23:00. (80 - 200kn).

Vegetarian SHE Bio Bistro & Rooftop Bar The bistro’s philosophy is admirable. To love and respect the land, the farmers that cultivate it, and of course the food that comes forth. Each season sees a different menu of fusion cuisine. Bread is baked in-house daily, and several dietary needs can be accommodated. Speciality teas, coffees, and cocktails are part of the offer, and you can make this venue ideal for any time of day. An intimate rooftop bar has also opened upstairs, perfect for that gracious sundown cocktail to go with the beautiful sea view.

QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 2, tel. (+385-22) 21 59 57, www.shebenik.com. Open 10:00-22:30; closed Sun. B Summer 2019

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Restaurants Lamb Marin Standing beside a major junction on the main ZadarŠibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stop-offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to sample the spit-roast lamb – a specimen can usually be seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figuring strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70, www.restoran-marin.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (35 - 140kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W ­i Torcida This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads through Boraja. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!QDonje polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+38522) 56 57 48, www.restoran-torcida.hr. Open 08:0023:00. (60 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­L­W ­i Stari Grad For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot.

As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and fish dishes.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 28 64. Open 07:30-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00.

(40 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i Šešula Sandwich, burger and fry-up bar on the seafront keeping Šibenik’s nocturnal revelers happy with late-night takeaway munchies.QA‑2, Obala prvoboraca 14, tel. (+385) 099 339 80 07. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Sun. (20 80kn). T­B­S­L­W Terra Mare Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Terra Mare is a traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent.

QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55 67. Open 10:00-24:00. (75 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­W ­i Tinel Up a short flight of steps opposite St. Chrysogonus’s Church, Tinel has a broad menu of meat and seafood that covers most Adriatic culinary bases. The frogfish (grdobina) in white wine sauce or grilled sea bass (brancin) 16 Šibenik In Your Pocket

are particularly good.QC‑2, Trg pučkih kapetana 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 18 15. Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 150kn).

N­P­G­X­B Tomaseo A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QE‑4, Obala dr.

Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. (70 - 170kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­J­6­W Zlatna ribica Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00/(+385-22) 35 06 95, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 250kn).

A­P­G­X­B­L­W Zvone This low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of homestyle cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QFra Jerolima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69, www.zvone. business.site. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (30 160kn). P­G­T­V­L­W­C ­i

Beer hall Pivnica Toni If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local music-fan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen Petrović hogging the limelight. The outdoor terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on summer evenings.QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 78 60. Open 08:00-23:00. (35 - 45kn). A­P­G­ X­T­B­6­W sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Out of town Drniš Kod Baje This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a bag made from intestines) – a combined platter of the two is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00-22:00; Sun 07:00-13:00. (40 - 60kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W ­i

Islands Aldura Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala 8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75.

Open 08:00-01:00. (45 - 140kn). N­X­T­B­6­W ­i facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Core Lounge Bar & Restaurant Situated in the Kornati National Park, Vrulje Bay to be specific is where the beauty of nature meets the beauty of superb food and adventure. Refurbished from top to bottom, visitors can enjoy the wonderful panoramic views on offer. It is also a place where one can relax, or go for organised teambuilding activities such as sailing, fishing, jogging and trekking. Accommodation available!QVrulje Bay, NP Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 200 40 45, www.corekornati.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. 180 - 380kn. A­P­ X­T­B­S­W ­i Dalmata This is a traditional island tavern with a menu covering a customary selection of simple grilled-meat dishes alongside a broader range of seafood. Main courses range from inexpensive options like breaded hake fillet (pohani oslić) to finger-licking, push-the-boat-out delicacies like scampi and lobster. Choose between the small and cosy interior with large, curiously-shaped seashells hanging from the timber-beamed ceiling, or wooden-bench seating a canopied terrace overlooking the sea shore.QObala I 1, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 095 906 14 07. Open 08:00-01:00.

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Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Fešta In Golubovac bay on the island of Žut, this restaurant run by the Mudronja family mixes a standard repertoire of traditional high quality Dalmatian cuisine. Local ingredients especially herbs and flora from the Kornati region is used.

Fish and lobster with innovative starters such as congereel pate and various fish carpaccioare some of the finer things on offer. Home-baked bread and a well-stocked wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The restaurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other supplies to yachters.QUvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 099 347 35 19/(+385-) 099 239 90 89, www.zut.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (120 - 500kn). A­G­ X­T­B­6­W Four lions Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with chairs and tables right by the waterside.QZlarinska obala 15, Zlarin. Open 07:00-01:00. (50 - 120kn). N­P­G­ X­T­B­6­W ­i Opat Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening.

Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QOtok Kornat 183, Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385) 091 224 78 78, www.opat-kornati.com. Open 09:0024:00. (150 - 500kn). A­G­X­T­B­S­V­6­W ­i Žut Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the specialities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, www. restoran-zut.com.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (130 - 280kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i 18 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Konjevrate Konoba Vinko One word says it all – homemade! Visit this wonderful family-owned konoba situated on the main road from Drniš to Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including famous Drniš prosciutto, Velebit cheese, rotisserie and baked dishes under the iron bell to local wines, various rakija (grappa), craft beers, and homemade cakes – all can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QUz cestu 57, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098 979 34 10, www.konobavinko.hr. Open 12:00-22:00. (80 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W

Murter Boba Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on which food is prepared – delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order it a few hours in advance.QButina 22, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 937 91 81, www.konobaboba.hr. Open 12:00-24:00.

(100 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W Fabro With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully romantic place to dine. If you are travelling out of season the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61. Open 11:00-23:00. (80 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W ­i Tic Tac The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu, although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.

With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening dining, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.

QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/(+385-) 098 86 46 19, www.tictac-murter.com. Open 12:0023:00. (100 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

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Restaurants Pirovac Nono Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies goodquality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered lid. It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Pirovac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84. Open 07:00-24:00. (90 - 350kn). A­G­X­T­B­W ­i

Primošten Kamenar An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Local Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest fish.QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, www. restaurant-kamenar.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W ­i Mediteran A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.

QPut briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/ (+385-22) 57 17 80, www.mediteran-primosten.hr.

Open 13:00-24:00. (120 - 250kn). A­P ­G ­X ­T ­B­ 6­W Torkul Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (including among other things nautical photographs, a life belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 33 75 15, www.konobatorkul.com. Open 10:00-24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­G­X­ T­B­S­6­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Restaurants Cantinetta This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locally-influenced dishes such as roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at least a day in advance. Since the process of cooking is so complex, they require orders by a minimum of 10 people.QAleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 24/(+385-) 091 150 64 34, www.cantinetta.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn).

A­P ­G ­X ­B ­W Pini Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught local mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95, www.pini.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (80 - 120kn). A­P­ G­X­T­B­L­6­W ­i

Baraka Winery Archives

Rogoznica Antonijo Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogoznica’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish in between.

Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja 35, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54, www.restoran-antonijo.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Open 11:00 - 01:00. (70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­ 6­W

Skradin Bonaca Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and only using the freshest ingredients – the owner is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric interior features exposed stone and brick with nauticallythemed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor terrace looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44. Open 12:00-24:00. (70 - 350kn). A­G­X­U­B­J­6­W 20 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Vidrovača Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatically-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, although they should be ordered a few hours in advance.

QVidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75 72 81, www.vidrovaca.com. Open 12:00-24:00. (100 300kn). N­G­X­T­B­L­6­W Zlatka If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.

QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39 09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 12:00-24:00. (38 - 85kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­S­W Zlatne školjke A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska torta.QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 22, www.zlatne-skoljke.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (80 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Tisno Broščica A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11. Open 08:00-23:00. (65 - 140kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­V­W ­i Gina Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, www. gina.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 140kn). A­N­P­G­ X­T­B­6­W ­i

BARAKA

Tribunj Šimun This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure.

Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12. Open 12:0024:00. (80 - 200kn). A­G­X­T­B­J­6­W

Vodice Bistro Gulož A romantic eatery small in venue and size, but it’s the food the people want and come back for. Menu dishes are based mainly on fish and seafood as well as homemade fish paté, burgers, salmon, tuna, swordfish, and fine bruschetta.

Home grown spices at this time of year make all the difference.QObala matice Hrvatske 14a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 900 21 45. Open 17:00-24:00. (75-160kn). N­B­6

By Gušte In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in season.QMirka Zore 34b, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75 93, www.konoba-guste.com. Open 18:00-24:00.

(80 - 160kn). A­G­X­B­W Tri piruna Local delicacy with a fine track record! Enter a typical Dalmatian tavern (konoba) with some great food on offer. High on the ‘recommendation list’ is tuna steak, Florentine steak, black risotto… Sea food is also hot on the menu! Wines are local and the service advice is at the right price. The music and the décor all fit the experience!QUl. Pave Roce 5, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 576 7751, www.konobatripiruna. com. Open 17:00-23:30. (70-210kn). A facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

WINE TASTING RESERVATION: m: +385 98 337 993 e: filip@baraka.co Bogdanovići 36, Šibenik http://baraka.co

Wine Tasting Baraka Winery Baraka Winery is a relatively new chapter in Croatia’s always-impressive wine story. Established just over 3 decades ago, this is a tale of the love of fine wine, and dedication to the grapevine. This family run business can be found on the Srima peninsula, near Šibenik and Vodice, and it has almost 12,000 vines across 4 hectares of land. Their wine follows the same principles of those days when the family made wine for themselves and friends in their own cellar at home – no herbicides are used. QBogdanovići 36, tel. (+385-) 098 33 79 93, www.baraka.co. Open 11:00-16:00.

Na.Ma.Lo Coffee & Wine Bar A wine bar with world’s biggest collection of wines from Šibenik area, and some from other parts of Croatia as well. Their cocktail list puts local flavours into world classics, and their coffee game is strong with beans lightly roasted in Croatia’s capital. If you are more of a beer lover, make sure to check out their local craft selection.QE‑3, Don Krste Stošića 2, tel. (+385-) 099 827 88 93. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; closed Sun. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 24:00. Sunday 17:00 - 01:00. A­P ­G ­X ­B ­J­ 6­W

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Coffee & Cakes Coffee Barone Bistro Cafe style bistro within the Barone Fortress with beautiful panoramic sea views where throughout the entire day visitors can pop in for coffee, but also for those a bit more peckish they can try small fine snacks of marinated seafood or local meat delicacies such as prosciutto and šokol.

Sample wines from small local producers; Maraština, Babic, Debit, Plavina...QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A­W Bono Positioned in a small square and one of numerous cafes, Bono is quite popular and a nice place to relax. Seating is provided inside and out with live gigs set up in-front of the café during summer. A place to chill and cool off!QE‑3, Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 33 72 31. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-14:00.

Giro espresso One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.QE‑3, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66. Open 07:0001:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-14:00. N­P­G­ X­T­B­J­W

Gradska vijećnica With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out the cake of the day.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 05. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A­G­X­T­ B­J­6­W Hendrick’s Bar A contemporary bar with an urban Mediterranean feel that is hot on the heels of ‘drink it up’. They also offer an assortment of freshly squeezed juices, an even larger selection of ‘more beer, more beer’ and other alcoholic beverages to get your evening going. On Friday nights enjoy open air concerts.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 16. Open 07:0001:00; Sun 07:00-14:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. X­W Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt Sv. Lovre café&restaurant If you value your daily coffee break as your personal moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.svlovre.com. Open 09:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­J­6­W Trapula Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers familiar international pop-rock territory.QB‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 01:00. N­P ­X­ T­B ­J ­W

Cakes Castrum Coffee & more Right on the fortress of Saint Michael, this café offers scenic views of the Adriatic whilst choosing from coffee or freshly squeezed juice amongst other beverages. The bake their own fresh cakes and have a variety of types and flavours on offer. Cold salads and platters can also be ordered. Castrum is the right place for a little break from sightseeing.QC‑2, St. Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 099 445 90 11, www.castrumsibenik.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. June and September Open 08:00 - 21:00.

July and August Open 08:00 - 22:00. B­W

Na.Ma.Lo Coffee & Wine Bar Archives

22 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Ka Grom Escape the heat at ‘Ka Grom’, an ice-cream parlour that will hydrate at a fast rate. With a growing reputation as sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes

one of the town’s best, the range of flavours here is hard to beat. Whether you like creamy, chocy, fruity, nutty, peachy, waffly, or crunchy, and from classic to premium ice-creams, there’s something for everyone! QF‑2, Trg Kralja Držislava 1, tel. (+385-) 091 318 43 20. Open 09:00-01:00. P­J Kavana Life Palace Located within a Renaissance building which is a stunning hotel, the ground floor houses a café and pastry shop like no other. Around 20 fresh cakes are on offer each day which enhance the ritual of sipping on coffee. Choose from the beautiful terrace or stunning palace like interior. Must see place for an all-round relaxing rendezvous!QE‑3, Trg šibenskih palih boraca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 05, www.hotel-lifepalace.hr. Open 07:00-24:00. P­B­W Moderato Coffee & Cakes bar Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenikborn melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is something of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within. After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew.

The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque. They serve fantastic homemade cakes!QG‑2, Stjepana Radića 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 36, www.moderato.hr. Open 06:3023:00; Sun 07:00-13:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Noemi Slastice There is nothing better than doing what you love and Srđana Pažanin is doing just that. She is the owner and main cake/pastry artist who pays attention to detail to all of the cakes and desserts found at this store. It is take-away only, and the highlight here is that all of her cakes are hand-made with quality ingredients and no additives. Hence, quality over quantity!QAnte Šupuka 10, www.facebook.com/ noemislastice. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Sun. Slastičarnica Calimero Only minutes from the main bus station, Calimero is heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. This patisserie/cake shop will leave your taste buds tingling with their large array of homemade cakes on offer. Cheesecakes, croissants, macaroons, pies and much more to choose from! Naturally, all the finest coffees and teas will help settle the tummy after such indulgence. QG‑3, Vladimira Nazora 49, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 18. Open 07:00 - 00:30. N­P­B­W YUM Pastry Shop Attention to detail can be seen on almost every cake or pastry made here, and the combination of flavours aligned with seasonal goodies really do make a difference. This new café has already touched the hearts of locals with its simple interior, colourful cakes, super service and combo of new meets traditional sweets that are served.QE‑2, Božidara Petranovića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 684 95 75.

Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-14:00. P­B­J­W Summer 2019

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Nightlife Domino This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and homely by a combination of lowkey lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a poprock menu of background music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite for a good party.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-) 091 522 82 25. Open 09:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00.

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Barcode Archives

Vintage bar Archives

En Vogue Beach Club This chic and stylish beach club delivers superb views of the Šibenik archipelago from its own private beach. It’s the place where glam people and influencers come to mingle, seeking the sun, VIP guest service and live DJ sets churning out tunes. A designer menu and premium beverages keep hunger and thirst at bay. No doubt, En Vogue Beach Club is the place to be seen – this could be you! QAmadria Park, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, www.envoguebeachclub.com. Open 11:0021:00. B­W Pub&Wine Bar Scala Enter into a monopoly of wines and beers beautifully placed for customers to choose from as they are lit up behind the illuminating lights surrounded in stone behind the bar. This rustic venue has a lot of pluses in terms of vibe and character. Live acts perform often, a great set list of local and broader beverages on hand; seasonal specials in terms of food are on offer too. Coffees of all sorts available!QPut gimnazije 5, tel. (+385-) 095 890 44 31.

Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­L­W

Azimut Club This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene. Situated inside now-dry wells, built in 1453, it’s is a home to urban culture. Here you will find various contemporary exhibitions, several fascinating art installations, all part of Azimut’s atmosphere and underground world. Topped with live concerts and music, its shaded terrace is a place you’ll want to visit to relax, where you can hang out while sipping a cool glass of culture.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 2. Open 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. A­G­ X­B­E­6­W

Rebus Bar Escape the heat and grab a beverage at Rebus, morning coffee to evening cocktails, Rebus is open all day long. Not to be missed are the evening live music sessions (Thursdays and Friday or Saturday) with a great variety of beer, local wine, and mega list of cocktails, including signature Rebus cocktail recipes. The exquisite interior fuses oriental tones with an industrial feel, and it is well worth a visit! QF‑3, Ul. Svetog Nikole Tavelića 3, www.facebook. com/rebusbarsibenik. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:0002:00; Sun 17:00-01:00.

Bar Code A cocktail bar best known for the use of local ingredients in making a fusion of modern to original cocktails and other beverages. With live DJs, artists and bands lined up, Barcode is definitely a place worth visiting as the sun sets and the moon rises. QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 3, tel. (+385) 098 942 37 80, www.facebook.com/barcodesibenik.

Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­ T­B­J­W

Vintage Bar Opened in the summer of 2016 with attention to detail paid to the interior’s green walls, nature walls, earthy shades and more. The Vintage Bar offers super cool cocktails, hot coffees and teas. As it is located in the heart of the city, it’s the perfect breather or time-out between sightseeing.QF‑3, Prolaz Bože Dulibića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37 80. Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 16:00-01:00.

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Nightlife

Out of town Aurora Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatiallooking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, www.auroraclub. hr. Open 23:00-05:00. It’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. A­G­X­B­E­L­6­W Basadura Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws the local islands into silhouette.QBadnje 9, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 733 71 25. Open 07:00 - 23:00. From July Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­G­X­T­B­6­W Beach Bar Lantana Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this improvised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a woodfacebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, www. lantana-murter.com. Open 10:00-24:00. N­G­X­T­ B­6­W Exit club A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t understand.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 196 67 19. June 15 - August 31 Open 21:30 - 05:00.

N­P­X­B­E­J Fjaka Bar Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel where one can enjoy excellent coffee, refreshing beverages and delicious meals, and at night the pace picks up as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live bands. Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26. Open 08:00–01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­E­6­W ­i Summer 2019

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Nightlife

Krešimir This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten varieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar it’s a tempting last port of call for those who just can’t resist the idea of one for the road.QMajinova 5, Murter. Open 07:00-02:00. A­P­ X­B­W NoStress Night&Beach Bar The crew which runs this place is famous for organising great parties the whole year round, and come June they simply move the stage out into the open and next to the sea. DJs, music, warm nights, all in a place loved by locals and tourists alike, and all guaranteeing a memorable night out.QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 099 873 40 45. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T Opium This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 569 50 19, www.opium-vodice.net. Open 07:00 - 00:00. July - September Open 21:00 - 06:00. A­P­ G­X­T­U­B­E­J­6­W

Reful An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool table and classic-rock background music, Reful is a welcome antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised terrace looking towards Hramina beach. Live blues and rock bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when the alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage.QSabuni 11, Murter, tel. (+385-) 099 634 69 56. Open 07:00 - 02:00. September 16 - October Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­X­T­B­E­L­6­W The Legend’s Pub Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub – or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker. The semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 02 77, www.thelegendspub.com. Open 08:00 - 05:00. A­P­ G­X­B­E­J­6­W

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Sightseeing Essential Šibenik Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Svetog Jakova) With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today.

Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innovative features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.

Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died before the reconstruction really got going.

Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a frieze of 71 stone heads – which appear to pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and have served as something of a trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac.

You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin.

Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: June - August 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00.

September, October, April, May 09:00 and 19:00, Sun facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. November - March 09:00 and 18:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:00.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.

Open 09:30-18:30. Admission 25kn.

Saint Anthony’s Channel - Promenade See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new promenade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archipelago. Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. Anthony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of Šibenik!QJ/K‑5, www.kanal-svetog-ante.com. Šibenik City Museum (Muzej grada Šibenika) A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the representative of the Venetian Republic would watch over Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum which only reopened its door for permanent displays after a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antiquity, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD‑4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 30kn, kids by the age of 12 have free entrance.

The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence (Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre) Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007.

Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio, a restaurant and a souvenir shop. If you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration.QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.svlovre.com. Open 09:00-24:00.

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Sightseeing Churches Church of Our Lady outside the Walls (Gospa van grada) Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features extravagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00.QF‑1, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 77. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun only during mass.

Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana) This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac.

Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a series of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s four-storey belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made

by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cherubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Put igrališta 21.

Church of the Ascension (Crkva Uspenja Bogorodice) A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added.

The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in 1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox community ever since.

Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the interior contains an iconostasis studded with images of the Virgin Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the addition of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful modern mural of Christ fills the apse.

Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares performed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings – the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun 09:00.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 54 15. Open 08:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog Duha) Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit in the title. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Dinko Zavorović Square.

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St Francis’ Church and monastery (Crkva i samostan svetog Frane) Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Baroque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar paintings.

A doorway from the square just outside the church’s main entrance leads through to the monastery courtyard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of displays dealing with church history, and examples of the monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and books. Mass 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00.

Mass in English can be arranged by appointment.QF‑3, Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20 14 80, www. svetiste-sibenik.hr. Open 06:30 - 20:00.

St Lawrence’s Church (Crkva svetog Lovre) Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669.

One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (17041760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto, an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858.

Mass: 18:30, Sun 08:30.QD‑3, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 09. Open by prior arrangement.

The New Church (Nova crkva) Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is so-called because it was one of the last to be built within the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: Sat 20:00, September Sat at 19:00.The church is open only during mass.QD‑2/E‑2, Ulica Nove Crkve.

Curiosity Amor di cani Wandering the streets you’ll come upon two stone containers jutting out of a wall and one has the chiseled inscription, ‘Amor De Cani’ (for the love of dogs). Historically, animals suffering from rabies often had a fear of water and locals could then identify those who’d keep distant, these days they serve as a healthy pit stop for cats and dogs wanting some water.

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Sightseeing

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Sightseeing The Šibenik Rebus Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols – bird’s wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.QE‑3, Dobrić.

Galleries St Chrysogonus Gallery As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik.QD‑3, Don Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, www.galerijasv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija Gallery) The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery, intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old baroque building in the centre of Šibenik.QF‑3, Petra Nakića bb, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

Landmarks Dražen Petrović Memorial Court Šibenik’s most famous sporting son, Dražen Petrović, is well remembered here. In Baldekin, a part of this coastal town, alongside a memorial centre, you’ll find a court dedicated to this former NBA great.QBaldekin.

Dražen’s Golf 1 The old white Volkswagen Golf Mk1 once owned by Dražen Petrović, dubbed as the best Croatian and European basketballer of all time and NBA star, whose young life was taken in a fatal car accident 24 years ago, has finally been placed where it belongs – beneath his Memorial centre at ‘Baldekin’, and this is where it will remain in the future. There too is a monument of Petrović which helps keep his memory alive! Pay a tribute…

Juraj Dalmatinac The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as a mark of respect for a great architect.QD‑3/4, Trg Republike Hrvatske.

Petar Krešimir IV (1058-1074) King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that did so. For this reason, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by the locals.QG‑3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

30 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica) Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restaurant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Civitas Sacra Interpretation Centre of St. James’ Cathedral (Interpretacijski centar katedrale svetog Jakova) Civitas Sacra – The Holy City programme, was developed in collaboration between the town of Šibenik, its tourist board, as well as the diocese. At its centre is the Cathedral of St. James, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the recently renovated Galbiani Palace. With tourism in mind, this programme will look to create new jobs as well as extend the regional tourist season past the traditional summer months.

Co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund, Civitas Sacra sees the now-open interpretive centre of the cathedral, while the interior of the palace has been conceived as a modern, multimedia presentation of the cultural and historical heritage of Šibenik, throughout the ages.QIvana Pribislavića 3. Open 08:30-21:00. 50/25kn, family ticket 100kn (parents with small children).

Parks Perivoj Robert Visiani Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG‑3. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Šubićevac Park For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that characterises central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ playground near the entrance, and good views over the southeastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and Barone.QF‑1, Šubićevac.

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Šibenik Surroundings

Can you have it all at once?

Old town, Mediterranean flair, all on a small peninsula, breathtaking beaches and coves and seductive, beautiful, perfectly clear sea...

Yes. You can have it all. In Primošten.

HOTEL ZORA HOTEL ZORA

32 Šibenik In Your Pocket

+385 (0)22 581 111 hotel-zora@adriatiq.com hotelzora-adriatiq.com

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Ĺ ibenik Surroundings

+385 (0)22 571 111 info@tz-primosten.hr tz-primosten.hr

AUTO CAMP ADRIATIQ +385 (0)22 581 223 camp-adriatiq@adriatiq.com autocamp-adriatiq.com

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Sightseeing St Nicholas’ Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Nikole) Jutting out into the St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow neck of water that leads from the Šibenik Channel to the open sea, the smooth-pointed triangle of St Nicholas’s Fortress is one of the most elegant military buildings anywhere in the Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engineer Gian Girolamo Sammicheli in the mid-16th century to protect Šibenik from Ottoman naval attacks. In 2017, it was included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List making Šibenik only one of five cities in the world with two ancient buildings listed. There are long-term plans to restore the fortress. You can visit St. Nicholas’ Fortress, organised by Priroda (Nature) a public institution of Šibenik-Knin County. You leave by boat from the Krka berth on the Šibenik waterfront.

Schedule and prices can be found at tickets. kanal-svetog-ante.com and the cost includes travel (20 minutes either direction), admission to the fortress (45 minutes sightseeing), tour guides, and multilingual materials. Total time approximately 2 hours.

Photo by Davor Šarić, JU Priroda ŠKŽ Archives

Fortifications Barone Fortress Today’s smart devices are virtual time machines. Don a pair of augmented reality (AR) glasses and use your smart phone and step 370 years into the past, to the 1646 Ottoman siege of Šibenik. The defence of the city by the citizens of Šibenik is told through an exhilarating audio and video experience taking the viewer right into the centre of the action. The siege takes place on Barone Fortress, a fortification hastily built in just under two months lying on the hills overlooking the city. The fortress was part of the defence system of Šibenik which included three other fortresses and together they served as the last line of defence against the invading Ottomans. While the other three fortresses were named after sacred buildings, this one was named after Baron Degenfeld, a hero in the story of the cities defence. The fortress soon fell into a state of disrepair after the Ottoman invaders were repelled. It was several hundred years later, in the early 20th century that the city of Šibenik purchased the fortress and its surrounding land. It eventually gained use as a viewpoint overlooking the city’s marina and archipelago, and as a recreational space for hiking. In January of 2016, Barone Fortress was finally reopened to the public. The opening ceremony celebrated the rich cultural heritage of the city of Šibenik and marked the 950th anniversary of the first written mention of the city’s name.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel.

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(+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00 22:00. From September Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 40/25kn (family 90kn). Another option is unified ticket valid for seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and Barone fortresses: 70/45kn (family 160kn).

St John’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Ivana) Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetancontrolled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to ward off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example of 17th-century military architecture, its star-shaped plan providing any number of ideal angles for defensive artillery fire. Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting bastions surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly evergreen trees. Getting here from the centre of town is fairly easy: from the main Kralja Zvonimira take Težačka then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right onto the steeply ascending Put V. Mandušića. Alternatively, drive as far as Barone (see below) and take the footpath from there. Once you’re here, the access path to the fortress itself leads through a stepped gateway and out onto a grassy plateau, where there are remains of barrack blocks, powder stores, World-War-II gun positions and a modern radio mast. The views, taking in St Michael’s Fortress and the Šibenik Channel, are well worth the uphill walk.QL‑2, www.tvrdjava-kulture.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing St Michael’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Mihovila) One of the first things that visitors see when entering Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress, which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town.

Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought their court here – Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in 1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents, which explains why the city is sometimes known to this day as “Krešimir’s Town”.

Its floor plan has the shape of an irregular rectangle. There are two square towers on its eastern side whereas two polygonal towers sit along its northern front. Throughout history, the fortress had been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and it experienced its greatest suffering in 1663 and 1752. Archaeological investigations inside the monumental complex have found numerous remains of material culture dating from prehistoric times to the late Middle Ages. Running downhill from the fortress towards the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls built in the 15th century to provide access to the sea. Centuries on and despite its majestic yet turbulent past, St. Michael’s Fortress stands proud as a true landmark of the city, an unavoidable destination of cultural tourism and of utter national significance. Nowadays and after extensive reconstruction, the fortress serves a different purpose; it has become a summer stage for various cultural and in particular musical events thanks to its natural beauty and location.QC‑2, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From September Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 60/40kn (family 140kn). Another option is unified ticket valid for seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and Barone fortresses: 70/45kn (family 160kn).

Religious Collections Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of St Luce (Benediktinski samostan Sv. Luce) Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours 17th-century benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery started.QD‑3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Open 9:00 12:00, 16:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Fortress of Culture Šibenik Archives

Aquarium Šibenik Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. This aquariumterrarium is a small zoo where you can experience the depths of sea, rivers and lakes and meet various interesting fish and reptiles.QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, www.aquariumsibenik. com. May and June Check their Facebook page.

From July Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 40/30 kn.

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Šibenik Surroundings 5 Magical Islands With No Cars The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

Kaprije Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants. Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing.

Krapanj Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the low-lying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s male population devoting their time to sponge-diving. Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling sponge-themed gifts.

Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains several family tombs honouring onetime sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel Spongiola to find a small but entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20th-century air pumps. Qwww. tz-brodarica.hr.

Photo by Katarina Gregov, Zlarin Tourist Board Archives

36 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

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Šibenik Surroundings

Photo by Andrija Carli, Šepurine Beach at Prvić Island, Vodice Tourist Board Archives

Prvić In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements - Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west - Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and remains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617).

Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-ItalianGerman-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through the air attached to a square canvas parachute.

English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.

A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane. Qwww.vodice.hr.

Žirje Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring the island.

Zlarin Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m).

Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing 38 Šibenik In Your Pocket

went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral bracelets and earrings.

Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the pediment.

Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast, and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the workroom next door.

Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors. Qwww.tz-zlarin.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings Top Sights Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding The village of Betina on the island of Murter has a centuries-long tradition of wooden shipbuilding which is still well and truly alive today. Learn more about this fascinating craft through modern technology which helps visitors vividly sense the cultural background to the story behind this age old tradition. You can buy beautiful, authentic and eco-friendly souvenirs in the museum shop and FYI; it was recently awarded the ‘2018 Best European Museum that works with its local residents’.QVladimira Nazora 7, Betina, tel. (+385-22) 43 41 05, www.mbdb.hr. June Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. July, August Open 10:00 - 22:00. September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Admission 30/20 kn.

the 14th century, although the church we see today was built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is held in the monastery treasury.

Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.QNP Krka, www.npkrka.hr.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica 1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28, www.mc-faustvrancic.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 30/15 kn (family 60kn).

The Ivan Meštrović Museums – The Church of the Holy Redeemer - The Meštrović Family Mausoleum Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists. Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.QOtavice, Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. From October Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. 15/10kn.

Visovac Monastery Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the so-called Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Greygreen hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Krka National Park Archives, Burnum

Archaeological Sights Burnum Just outside the Krka National park’s western boundary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settlement. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post. A footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the development stages.QNP Krka, www.npkrka.hr.

Velika Mrdakovica - Arauzona Arauzona History and mystery combined! Arauzona is a rich archaeological site from the pre-Roman and Roman times where about one-hundred tombs have been discovered, some dating back from the 4th century B.C. Once a Roman settlement, some residential buildings were also found with signs of defensive walls, streets and water tanks.

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Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rubbing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re unlikely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.

Inland from Šibenik Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and endof-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia.

The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is covered under a separate section below.

Drniš Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin.

Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Ottoman-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night.

Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice.

Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promising local lad’s studies.

City Museum of Drniš QDomovinskog rata 54, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74. Open 08:00-14:30; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 5kn.

Drniš Tourist Board QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, www.tz-drnis.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat. 40 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Knin Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent times the location of a major railway junction. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities.

Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative complex of fortifications constructed at different stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological museum.

Knin Tourist Board QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, www.tz-knin. hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. From September Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. Museum of the town of Knin QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, www. kninskimuzej.hr. Open 08:00-18:00. Admission 30 kn.

Otavice Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists.

Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings Skradin Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bribir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684.

Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast.

Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood and some unique regional treats.

Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts, Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.44).

Skradin Tourist Board QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06, www. skradin.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Skradin Tourist Information Centre QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

North of Šibenik The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide quieter alternatives.

Murter Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on largesized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and - although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns.

Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone 42 Šibenik In Your Pocket

walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.

Tisno Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town.

There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by families who moved here from northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding countryside from the top.

Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls.

The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashingaround holiday.

Jezera A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.

Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still exists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling.

Murter With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest number of boats in proportion to the local population than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big repair yard.

Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of Murter’s stone houses.

Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea of what it once looked like.

There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully evocative spot.

Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direction.

Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats.

Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lantana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road out of town and turn right when you see the sign.

Photo by Stanko Ferić, DSF, Drniš, Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives

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Betina Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland (and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane.

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Šibenik Surroundings Betina Tourist Board QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, www.tz-betina.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Jezera Tourist Board QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, www.tzjezera. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat and Sun. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

Murter - Kornati Tourist Board QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, www.tzo-murter. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Tisno Tourist Board QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, www.tztisno.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Pirovac Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church.

Pirovac Tourist Board QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, www. tz-pirovac.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. From June 15 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Tribunj Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumbshaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay.

Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that features an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are splendid views of the coastline from the summit.

To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice.

Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey races that takes place every year in the first week of August. The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999.

There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to the southwest.

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Tribunj Tourist Board QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, www.tz-tribunj.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Vodice Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the mostvisited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings.Vodice has over 6 km of well maintained, mostly pebble beaches. There you’ll find all kind of activities, bars, restaurants and other facilities that will make your days at the beach fulfilled and special. Also, with its three dog beaches, Vodice is an ideal destination for vacationing with pets.

The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed.

Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which – featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex – looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries – they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

South of Šibenik South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the region’s biggest yachting marinas.

One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.

Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Šibenik Surroundings Primošten

Primošten Tourist Board Archives

Biking There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly popular draws.

In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site.

There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer.

Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly offroad trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves.

Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.

The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on the roads.

At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have been marked.

You can get a map at any of the respective tourist offices.

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Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach.

Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.

The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the resulting town became known as Primošten (which might be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”).

As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the peninsula town that visitors see today.

On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stoneroofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect the local population against atrocities by both Italian and German occupiers during World War II, before finally being murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15th-century parish church of St George.

Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are packed with bathers in summer.

Inland from Primošten Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of local families are returning to their ancestral properties and revitalizing the olive groves.

The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and whose family have been masters of the property for several generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more information see Agritourism on page 51.

Primošten Tourist Board QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, www.tz-primosten.hr. Open 08:00-22:00.

Rogoznica Rogoznica Tourist Board Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub.

Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs.

North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.

QObala Kneza Domagoja 56, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, www.loverogoznica.eu. Open 08:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Rogoznica Tourist Board Archives

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Šibenik Surroundings Nature Wonderland Eye of the Dragon This small lake known as the Dragon’s Eye is a sight to see, its lack of oxygen gives it unique features similar to the Black Sea. It’s located on the Gradina peninsula and near the town of Rogoznica. This little natural wonder is surrounded by cliffs and legend has it that if two lovers bathe in the Dragon’s Eye, they will be eternally faithful to each other and their marriage will be blessed with eternal love and healthy children.QRogoznica.

Kornati National Park Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak across age-old pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980.

Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives or harvest honey. The islands have no permanent population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete seclusion. The church of our Lady of Tarac on the island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats.

Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and returning towards 18:00. Most of the tourist agencies from Zadar to Primošten offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300kn per person, including lunch on the boat or one of the islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own boat – and a couple of days to spare. For yachtsmen, ACI marinas exist on the island of Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just outside it. Yachtsmen will have to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, in some charter companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primošten.

Or from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who are patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.QButina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, www.np-kornati.hr.

Entrance tickets cost 150 - 14 000kn depending on the size of the boat and period of the year (price list is on the web site).

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Krka National Park Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the Krka, the 72.5km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and 3.5km downstream of Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of one million people a year.

About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and trekking routes are recently being developed.

Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host to various communities of bats, who play an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects. It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruins of fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.

Visiting the park There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus. The third is Roški slap (June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00), although the road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 09:00 -20:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Kistanje (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 10:00 - 20:00). (During the other months please check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours.)

Daily tickets (June 110/80kn, July and August 200/120kn) and three-visit tickets (June 230/180kn, July and August 320/200kn) that includes three visits to the Park within a one week period from the date of purchase and can be bought at Skradin branch office or at the entrance points described above. The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include travel on excursion boats heading further north into the park – these must be paid for separately.

Skradinski buk Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Šibenik Surroundings the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year.

The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a reference to the noise generated by the water rushing over the rapids. Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Some of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricultural implements.

Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski vidikovac), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.

A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the second AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private company in order to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in his honour. Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow water is Skradinski buk where you are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself. On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding.

Ključica Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is part of the fortification system developed by the medieval Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce was much resented by others in the region, and Ključica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century. Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.

Roški slap Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), although parking space is limited when you get there. As 50 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Krka National Park, photo by shutterstock.com

at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques inside.

Krka Monastery and beyond Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries. It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs – although they are not always open to visitors.

Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.

North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.

Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east, and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol. It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings ment was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was divided up and shared out among the locals.

Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors to explore the landscape at close quarters.

Agritourism

Puljane Eco Campus Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon.QŠibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 49 35 40, www.np-krka.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 19:00.

Primošten Vineyards The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by individual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature.

These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the 16th century, although extra impetus to their developfacebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Banovi dvori Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry. Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generously-portioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot.QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, www.banovidvori. com.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

Etnoland Set out on a journey, into the heart of Dalmatian culture. Starting in serene Pakovo Selo, you can take a 1 hour award-winning tour (guided or self guided) through the Etnoland where you will listen to ancient tales, see and learn about Dalmatian customs and traditions, walk through authentic stone houses, and experinece much more. According to your wishes, a traditional dinner or lunch is provided with roast under the “peka”, grappa, wine, and prosciutto tasting (price from 15€). The tour is arranged by appointment and please visit our website www.etnoland.com for more information and booking options. Awarded the best tourist attraction offer in continental Croatia, 2012 and best interpretation of cultural heritage in Croatia 2016. QPut Čikole 4, Pakovo Selo, tel. (+385-) 099 220 02 00, www.etnoland.com. Open by prior arrangement. Tour price with included tastings starting from 15€.

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Family Fun Aquapark Dalmatia The first water theme park in Dalmatia! Aquapark Dalmatia is fun for every age, and also features a special zone for the youngest visitors. Go at your own pace; the cascading barrel of Aqua Rain fortress and various water slides provide an exhilarating experience while the Lazy River provides a more relaxed tempo.QAmadria Park, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 59 51, www.amadriapark.com/ aquapark-dalmatia. Admission 110/80kn. No admission for kids 0-3 years old.

successfully treated and returned to the wild. Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with creatures that you would normally never see at such close quarters.

Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of falconry.QŠkugori 47a, Dubrava kod Šibenika, tel. (+385-) 091 506 76 10, www.sokolarskicentar.eu. Open 09:0019:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

Dalmatian Ethno Village A ‘living museum’, Dalmatian Ethno Village carries local food traditions forward in a true-to-life, rural ambience.

The Village presents a hands-on, garden-to-plate dining experience that is not only a social ritual, it’s a complete way of life! Where possible, ingredients are organically grown and harvested on the premises, then used in daily meal preparation. The menu also features home-made produce by in-house artisans. QAmadria Park, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 51, www.amadriapark. com/dalmatian-ethno-village. Open 12:00-14:30,19:0023:00. T­E­K

Tourist punkt Šibenik plus Promoting slow tourism, this agency creates more intimate special theme tours, like Cool night tour, Eco, Wine and dine or In search of the lost Mediterranean, one day tour on a traditional wooden boat consisting of sailing through Šibenik archipelago and a visit to unique islands Prvić and Zlarin. ...Accommodation and rentals too.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com. Open 09:0021:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; closed Sun.

Photo by Stipe Surac, Šibenik Falconry Centre Archives

Beaches Banj The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a children’s playground, and more.QJ‑2.

Jadrija Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.

Šibenik Falconry Centre Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city centre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction. The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans. The majority are 52 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Rezalište This is the newest beach on the block with a 500 metre long strip in Brodarica, near Šibenik, and it is divided into sections from families with children to a sports and recreational area. Attractions include a basketball court, a beach volleyball court, a street gym, a disabled beach ramp, a covered children’s playground, a green garden, catering facilities and more.

Solaris One of the finest beach resorts of the highest regard. It includes beach bars, hotels, restaurants, cafes, sports, markets, yachting, aqua park and kilometres of pebbled beaches to devour. QHoteli Solaris 86. Žaborić As it is only 10km from Šibenik, Žaborić has a beach that combines sand and pebbles, it is perfect for a family with kids as you can ooze your way into the crystal clean waters.

Don’t forget your sun umbrellas!QŽaborić. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Antiques Antique Market A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Fridays and Saturdays during winter, but in the summer season it is open every day except on Sundays. It just may happen that whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you find a rare copy of your favourite book or an old pocket watch or painting that will capture your heart and extend your home collection of antique items.QD/E/F‑2, Trg N.Tomasea, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67/(+385-) 098 23 58 64, www.antikvar2427.com. From June Open 08:00 20:00. N

Art Galleries Dana A beautiful gallery where you can find that special gift, souvenir, or ornament, big or small, they have it all! All items and works are handmade by Croatian designers, painters, and ceramists... Worth a peek!QE‑3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47. Open 09:30-22:00. J Ines Vlašić Gallery Family owned gallery that showcase unique form of artwork, in particular jewellery and sculptures.QD‑4, Trg Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 095 695 55 69, www.inesvlasic. com. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00. A­J Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery In a beautiful setting that exudes the Mediterranean, you will find works of art by academic painters, jewellery and pieces of clothing by Croatian designers, and authentic souvenirs handmade and autochtonic to this area.QE‑3, Don Krste Stošića 14, tel. (+385-) 091 288 79 91. Open 09:00-22:00. A Lana Art A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE‑2, Fausta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91/(+385-) 091 87 98 03. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

made in croatia Čivljak This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatin – filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often elaborate in design.QF‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38522) 21 20 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Deni Design Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and stones.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:0013:00; closed Sun. From August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Delicatessen Barone Shop So you’ve just tried a glass of wine in the bistro that’s tingled the tonsils, then head into the shared space of the Barone bistro and enter its wine shop, here you can buy wines as well as original products by Croatian product designers.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00-20:00. June, July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. From September Open 09:00 - 20:00. A Nira delicije When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat products for you. Take out only!QL‑3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01. Open 07:00-14:00; Sat 07:0013:00; closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.QD‑3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198 02 06, www.uje.hr. Open 09:30-20:00. A

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Shopping Market Pijaca The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain?QG‑2/3, Stankovačka 9. Open 06:00-13:00; Sun 07:00-10:00.

Shopping centres City Life QAnte Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www.citylife.com.hr. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. W Swan Atelier Drifting from the big brands and venturing into a world of true originality, the Swan Atelier is a platform for authentic Croatian designers and their fashionable clothing products, accessories, jewellery and more. Be sure to find that special piece to take home and add to your wardrobe as a memento of Šibenik!QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 12, tel. (+385-) 091 545 64 70, www.facebook. com/swanateliersibenik/. A Skradinske delicije As well as running a highly recommended restaurant, this family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QAleja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www.skradinskedelicije.hr. June - September Open 08:00 - 24:00.

Svijet čaja Devotees of tea may just find themselves in heaven with a vast range of teas from all four corners of the globe.

Choose from black, green, ayurveda, herbal, fruit flavours and more.QFra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 67, www.cajoteka.com.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 08:0013:00; closed Sun. A

Dalmare QVelimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www. dalmare.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. July and August Open 09:00 - 21:00. W SP Supernova Šibenik QPut Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova. hr. Open 09:00-21:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. W

Souvenirs Galerija Sv. Kristofor A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious items.QD‑3, Sv. Luce 2, tel. (+385) 092 105 91 64. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. NP Krka Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr.

Open 07:00-20:00. A Deni Design Archives

Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95. Open by prior arrangement. N Vinoplod A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices – a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić.

QVelimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40 11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. N 54 Šibenik In Your Pocket

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Tourist punkt

+ for your holiday in Šibenik region

We don't do all different things, but we do all things in a different way.

You are welcome on our website www.sibenikplus.hr or in our friendly agency on the waterfront promenade in Šibenik, just 100 m away from St. James Cathedral, by the sea, in the direction of the city beach ...

www.sibenikplus.hr e-mail: info@sibenikplus.com phone: +385 22 410 259 mobile: +385 95 914 2449

HR – AB – 22 – 15010007318

Šibenik Plus is the proud winner of The Golden Embroidery, awarded to the best tourist agency in Šibenik region

Arriving By bus

Arriving By plane

Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagrebto-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from 136kn to 151kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south – so arriving here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.

The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00), information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toilet (07:00 - 22:00).

Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from Split expect around 1hr 50min.

Šibenik Coach Station QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68.

Arriving By car From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an exhilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 152kn (car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way.

From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway for a stretch or two.

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Arriving By train Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be replaced by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin, but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.

Main train station QL‑3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99, www.hzpp.hr.

Airport Šibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Zadar airport to the northwest and Split airport to the southeast.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 1270, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.splitairport.hr.

Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax (+385-23) 20 58 33, www.zadar-airport.hr.

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Arrival & Getting Around Biking Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.

Option two is the ‘Nextbike’ system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of six city locations. The initial amount you pay is 80kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental… FYI, each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

Bike and hike Website with lots of information about exploring Šibenik Knin County on bike. It has routes, maps, cycling events, stops offs, tours, service spots and much more. Qwww. bikeandhike.hr.

Tourist Information The local tourist association offices listed in this guide can help you out with a whole lot of information about individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, so you might want to check on their Web sites or give them a call before trekking over.

Tourist Information Centre QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, www.sibenik-tourism.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Association of Tourist Guides “Mihovil” Šibenik QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3 (TIC), tel. (+385-) 099 684 10 16, www.vodici-sibenik.hr.

Public Institution of Krka National Park QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.np-krka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 19:00; closed Sat, Sun. Šibenik Tourist Board QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat. Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, www.dalmatiasibenik.hr. Open 07:30-15:30; closed Sat, Sun. 56 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Tourist Punkt Šibenik Plus Rental and delivery of bikes can be arranged by email or phone, and prices depend on the model varying from 100120 kn per day. This is reduced if rented for a longer period of time.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com.

Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; closed Sun.

Car rental Avax ABC Rent a car QDraga 11, tel. (+385-) 099 616 37 63, www.avaxrent. com. Open 07:00-22:00.

Nova QTrg Drage 12, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 099 265 90 95, www.novarentacar.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A

Ferries Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a scenic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offering fantastic views of the St. Nicholas sea fort as you pass.

Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice journey taking just over one hour.

Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless travelling on selected Žirje services.

The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office diagonally opposite the jetty.

The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board).

Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist excursions operated by travel agencies or with your own yacht.

Jadrolinija Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68/ (+385 -22) 20 06 24, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 18:30. Sun Open 08:00 - 11:00, 18:00 19:30. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Port of Šibenik, Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives

Parking

Public transport

Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street parking is split into four zones where parking is charged 1 June – 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day tickets at 67 – 165 kn.

There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 – 10kn/ hour.

Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemistically named “Služba za premještanje vozila” – the “Service for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 08:00 – 14:00. Closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23 or pauk@gradski-parking.hr.

Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotransport Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, passing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel complex), and the no.5 (to Brodarica, jump-off point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica), where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.

Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn - 15kn.

Gradski parking QDraga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, www.gradskiparking.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Autotransport d.d.

QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44, www.atpsi.hr.

Taxi The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 21 21; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per baggage item. We recommend that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.

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Šibenik Basics Customs There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Disabled travellers

Smoking

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre, it’s open all year round 07:00 – 21:00, costs 5kn, and is a bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’ Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again 07:00 – 21:00, price 5kn.

Visas Croatian Visa Policies is fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong

Photo by Željko Krnčević, Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives

58 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385)195. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Bunja domaćinova Bunja domaćinova

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

8

Zelena šljiva Green plum

Žirje

Muna

Bus station

Jadrija

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Otok Žirje Žirje Island

Zlarin

Maslina Olive tree Z vo nim ira

Crkva sv. Križ Holy Cross Church

Plaža Rezalište Rezalište Beach

Marina Mandalina

BALDEKIN

Škrpina Red scorpionfish

VIDICI

Nacionalni park S. Ra dić Kornati a

Nacionalni

Morska spužva Sponges

Otok Krapanj Krapanj Island

8

Brodarica

Pu

ioc

a

33

Muflon The mouflon

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Early Croatian cemetery Kosa

Starohrvatsko groblje Kosa

Airport Split

SPLIT

Šparadići

Crkva sv. Ana 50 km St. Anna Church

SPLIT Crkva sv. Margarita St. Margaret Church

Jadrtovac

Morinje DRNIŠ

Donje polje

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Airport Zadar 50 km

ZAGREB

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Jarebica The rock partridge

Ovca Sheep

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Vrpolje 58

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Airport Zadar 50 km

SPLIT

Boraja

SPLIT

Nacionalni park Kornati

Ovca Sheep

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

Perković

DRNIŠ Danilo

Crkva sv. Danijel St. Daniel Church

Rider Rider

Nacionalni 50 km park Kornati

Zadar

Pršut Prosciutto Airport

ZAGREB

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

KNIN

DRNIŠ

Pršut Prosciutto

Ovčji sir Sheep’s milk cheese

Etnoland Theme park

Tematski park Etnoland

Industrijska zona Podi Entrepreneurial Zone

A1

Zec Rabbit

Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church

Lozovac

Sokolarski centar Falconry Centre

Grebaštica

Žaborić

Smokva Figs

Zec Rabbit

Entrance NP Krka

Visovac

Samostan Majke od milosti Mother of Mercy Convent

Crkva Gospa od zdravlja Our Lady of Health Church

33

Bijelo grožđe White grapes

58

Maslina Olive tree

Bedem Fortification wall

Smokva Figs

RAŽINE

Gradsko groblje Kvanj City Cemetery Kvanj tB

56

Entrance NP Krka

Dubrava

Konjički klub Kolan Riding club Kolan

SPLIT

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Marina Skradin

50 km

Airport

Zadar Skradin

ZAGREB

Žižula Ziziphus jujuba

Tvrđava Barone park Barone Fortress Kornati

ŠUBIĆEVAC

SPLIT

8

A1

Tvrđava sv. Ivana St. John Fortress

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Muzejska zbirka spužvi Sponge museum collection

Amadria Park

lja

Airport Zadar 50 km

Jarebica The rock partridge

MANDALINA

AquaPark

Soline velike Lake Soline Velike

Free entrance to local attractions + discounts on restaurants, Krka National Park, tours and more

Explore with

Crveni koralj Red coral

K ra

Srdela European pilchard

CR NICA

Tvrđava sv. Mihovila St. Michael Fortress

NJIVICE

Zapadna magistrala

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral

Plaža Banj City Beach

Šetnica Walk path

Marina Solaris

Otok Zlarin Zlarin Island

Gospa od Rašelja Our Lady of Raselj

Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Zablaće

Soline male Lake Soline Male

. An te Ka na l sv

Martinska

Pidoča Mediterranean mussel

Bilice

Zec Rabbit

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Prukljan

Jakobova kapica Scallop Pectinidae

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Crkva sv. Vida St. Vid Church

Raslina

Stipanac

Crkva sv. Mihovil St. Michael Church

Zubatac Common dentex

Tvrđava sv. Nikola St. Nicholas Fortress

Muzejska zbirka koralja Coral museum collection

Otok Lupac Lupac Island

Kupalište Jadrija Jadrija Beach

Maslina Olive tree

Prižba Prizba

Tržnica

Smokva Figs

Marina Zaton

Crkva sv. Roko St. Rocco Church

Bogdanovići

Otok Zmajan Zmajan Island

Gradina Gradina Fortress

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Kaprije

Otok Kaprije Kaprije Island

20 nm

Kakan Island

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

27

Zaton

Crkva Gospa Srimska Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church Red grapes

BENKOVAC

Plava

Jedrenje na dasci

Pristanište Dock

Trgovački centar Shopping park

ZADAR

Nalazište

Plaža Beach

Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping

Ronjenje Diving

Benzinska postaja Gas station

Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić Faust Vrancic Memorial

Otok Kakan

Otok Prvić Prvic Island

Prvić Šepurine Prvić Luka

Crkva sv. Jelena St. Jelena Church

Srima

BENKOVAC

Vodice

ZADAR

Crkva Gospa Okitska Our Lady of Okitska Church

Zec Rabbit

Muzej Museum

Kamp Camp

Informacije Information Center

Vezovi Moorings

Bolnica Hospital

Marina Marina

Market

Šetnice Walk path

Biciklistička staza Cycling track

Vodeni park AquaPark

Wind surfing

Tvrđava Fortress

Hotel Accommodation

zastava Blue Flag beach

Archeological site

Katedrala Cathedral

Šibenik i okolica Sibenik area map

or a az V. N

ZAGREB

a rpik Š ko ira Veli m

Vepar Wild boar

la tra gis ma žna Ju

istrala a mag Srednj

A

B

C

1

2

P Parkiralište Parking lot

Ljekarna Pharmacy Info centar Information Center Hotel/Hostel Accommodation

3

WC Toilets Vidikovac View point

ŠIBENIK

plan stare gradske jezgre old city center map

4

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral Crkva sv. Ivana St. John’s Church Crkva sv. Frane, samostan i muzej St. Franci’s Church and Monastery Crkva sv. Krševana St. Grisogonu’s Church (Krševan) Nova Crkva New Church Crkva sv. Duha Church of the Holy Spirit Crkva sv. Nikole St. Nichola’s Church Crkva sv. Barbare St. Barbara’s Church Crkva sv. Križa Church of the Holy Cross Crkva Svi Sveti All Saint’s Church Crkva Uspenie Bogomatere Ascension Church Crkva sv. Dominika St. Dominic’s Church

15.1.1873. D/E-2 17 buntovnika C-2 A. Zorčića C/D-3 Andrije Kačića C-2 Antuna Vrančića F-3 B. Fulgosi D-2 Biskupa Fosca F-3 Blajburskih žrtava G-1/2 Bonnina iz Milana E-2 Božidara Petranovića E-2/3 Braće Polić D-1/2 Bregovita B/C-1 Bukovačka C-3 Buta Har. Bilinića B/C-3/4 Crnica A-1

Dobrić E-3 Dolac B-3 Don Krste Stošića D/E-3 Dragojevićeve stube D-3 Eugena Kvaternika G-3 F. Dismanića D-3 F. Divinića D-3/4 Fausta Vrančića E-2 Fra Nikole Ružića E-3 Fra S. Zlatovića G-3 Grgura Ninskog E-2 H. Fortenezze E-3 I. Mrnavića C-3 Istarska C/D-1 Ivana Pribislavića E-3

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Crkva sv. Grgura St. Gregory’s Church Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church Crkva Gospe vanka Grada “Gospe Vanka Grada” Church Crkva sv. Nediljice St. Nediljica Church Gradska vijećnica The Town Hall Palača Rossini Rossini Palace Palača Foscolo Foscolo Palace Palača Pellegrini Pellegrini Palace Palača Gogala Gogala Palace Benediktanski samostan sv. Luce St. Luce Benedictine Monastery Crkva sv. Spasa St Savior Church Civitas Sacra - interpretacijski centar Interpretation center

Ive Zaninovića A/B-1 J. Barakovića F-3/4 J. Mondelle A-2 J. Utješanovića D-3 J. Petrovića D-2 Jurja Dalmatinca B/C-3 Jurja Šišgorića F-3 Kninska D-2 Kralja Tomislava E/F-3 Kralja Zvonimira C/G-3 Kraljice Jelene F-2 Krste Stošića D/E-3 M. Kolunića C/D-3 Mali prolaz C-3 Mesarske stube E-3

Miminac F-1/2 Mulo Krke G-4 Nikole Tesle F/G-1 Nikole Vladanova D-2/3 Nove crkve E-2 Obala F. Tuđmana E/F-4 Obala hr. mornarice G-4 Ob.palih omladinaca B/D-4 Obala prvoboraca A-2 Paške Zjačića E-1 Pekarska E-3 Perivoj Roberta Visianija G-3 Petra Nakića F-3 Pod tvrđavom C-3 Poljana F/G-2

Prolaz kroz zidine A-2 Prominska C-3 Prvička D-4 Put groblja C-2 Put Splita F-2 Put Tanaje C-1 Put tvrđavama D-1 Put Vuka Mandušića E-1 Riječka F/G-2 Sarajevska G-3 S. Čulinovića D-3 Skoka D-2 Skradinska D-2 Splitski put G-3 Srimska A-2

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TRATTORIA “GASTRO ITALIANO” Authentic Italian and Croatian food.

MEAT FROM CROATIAN FARMS: fillet steak, rump steak, pork fillet and chicken.

FISH: tuna, salmon and calamari.

LIVE MUSIC EVERY THURSDAY FROM 8 PM

TRIO “DON CARLOS”

Podsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris Hotels Resort) 22 000 Šibenik, Croatia info & reservation: tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94 www.gastro-italiano.hr 62 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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