Split In Your Pocket summer 2009 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SPLIT Summer 2009 “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Summer nights

Cafes, bars and other hot spots under the stars!

Diocletian´s Palace N°2 - complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

Full of festivals, fiestas and feasts!

contEnts

Lovorka Magaš

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Split

The central hub of Dalmatia

The Basics

A prett picture and tourist centre info

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Go Gourmet

A popular dish in Family homes

Where to stay

Home sweet home

Restaurantes

A delirious and delicious collision of cultures

Cafés

Where to watch the world go by

Nightlife

Mail & Phones 25

“I just call to say I luuuurve you...“

Don´t go anywhere without them

Going down to La-La Land

What to see Those sights explaine

Getting around Sport

33 35 45

...and the little country that could

Shopping

Take a little piece of my heart

Bussines Directory

Banks and stuff

Lifestyle Directory

Important numbers

Split Dalmatia County

Out and about around the city

Maps & Index Street index City centre map City map Country map

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Summer 2009

aRRiVinG in split

FoREWoRd For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in history and culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on the islands of Brač and Hvar. Even Split’s own citizens would drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season, leaving the city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although day-trippers were frequently bussed into town to drool over the city’s architectural riches, few locals ever considered that Split really qualified as a destination in itself. The last few years have seen a huge change in Split’s fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities, and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who have always considered their town to be one of the most inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn’t have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads it’s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art of having a good night out is a lifelong calling. And the normally slow-on-the-uptake city authorities appear to be getting their act together too. The long-awaited re-opening of the Municipal Art Gallery in May finally give Split the sense of cultural focus it needed. This summer’s exhibition of Marc Chagall prints in the Old Town Hall, Split’s first attempt to mount a blockbuster art show in the heart of the summer season, also seems to indicate that times are indeed a-changing.

Cover story The front cover provides a wonderful profile of the St Domnius belfry (church tower where the bells hang). St Domnius is the patron saint of Split and his feast day is celebrated on May 7. During the celebrations people sing a song ‘Zdravo Dujme mučeniče, Splita grada zaštiniče’ – ‘Hail Saint Domnius the martyr, protector of the city Split’.

Split In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +(385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax +(385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-856X © Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb Cover Split Tourist Board

Split In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket

By boat Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don‘t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port will cost you 3kn and operates around the clock. There‘s a supermarket that‘s open from 06:30 20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars that are open according to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you‘ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

By bus

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Editor assistant Kristina Kovač Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Maja Vidović, Gordan Karabogdan, Ivana Novak Photos Split In Your Pocket team, TZ Split, Lovorka Magaš, Photoclub Split, MKC Gallery Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account manager: Mirna Cindrić

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Split In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window and information desk both operate twenty-four hours. The international ticket office operates 24h. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you‘d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you‘re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that‘s that! From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb,

then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

By plane Split‘s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 22:00. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant and Café Ikar operates from 06:00 - 22:30 and has an excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 06:30 - 20:30) and the post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun) both operate exchange offices and can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men‘s and women‘s toilets. Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or, if you arrived on a Croatia Airlines flight, airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn‘t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 15kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia Airlines buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you just next to the old town for 30kn.

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station‘s working hours, from 06:10 - 22:20 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Summer 2009

Basics

Basics Health & Safety The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one‘s belongings at all times, nevertheless. Policija (Police no.92) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 12 April 13 May 1 June 11 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8

New Year‘s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers‘ Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascit Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day Lovorka Magaš

Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you‘re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff‘s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn‘t it?

Public Toilets There are several spots that are labeled as having a public toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to stand and do their business will only have to pay 1kn. So much for gender equality.

Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13 33, www.mfin.hr.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Split County: (April 2001): 463.676 Split (April 2001): 188.694 Territory: Croatia‘s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungar y, Slovenia, Serbia &amp; Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a seaborder with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Split In Your Pocket

Tipping

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Roads Croatian lawmakers can‘t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you‘re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we‘ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Tourist information Tourist information centre Peristil bb, tel / fax: (+385 -21) 34 56 06 Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 12 Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tic-split@st.t-com.hr Split & Dalmatia County Tourist Board Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1 tel / fax (+385-21) 49 00 32 / 49 00 33 info@dalmatia.hr, www.dalmatia.hr Tourist Board of Split Trg Republike 2 tel (+385-21) 34 86 00 www.visitsplit.com

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Smoking A total ban on smoking in public spaces (including all cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs) came into force on May 6. Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialize outdoors until well into the autumn, the ban has had next to no effect on people’s lifestyles thus far. What it does mean is that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are even more packed than usual. But it has never been easier to find a spare seat at even the most popular restaurants if you’re prepared to move inside.

Calling Split From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) and the number

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Summer 2009

cultuRE & EVEnts

cultuRE & EVEnts Photo by Dancing Bear

April 04 – September 31 Klape at Peristil Klape are traditional songs usually sung by a group of men in the ‘a capela’ style. Their voices range from bass to baritone and they sure know how to create a symphony without instruments. So whilst in Split, it’s worth the stroll down the Riva where each and every night you can hear Klape - in their element! April 23 – November 6 EL SHATT – The Croatian refugee community in the Sinai desert, Egypt (1944.-1946.) The Exhibition of the Croatian History Museum on the island of Vis, in the Baterija Building, city of Vis. An exhibition based on historical events during WWII which presents life in a refugee camp as seen through the eyes of ordinary men. The location was set in the Sinai desert where blocks of refugee camps were built. Due to military actions in Dalmatia, the Allies had organized for more than 30,000 people to be evacuated between1944 to1946.This was one of the first camps in the entire war. Vis Island

May 5 – August 9 Marc Chagall: dreams of love, poetry and faith Displaying over seventy of the artist’s prints in the Old Town Hall, the exhibition “Marc Chagall: dreams of love, poetry and faith” promises to be one of the cultural highlights of the summer. Central to the exhibition is a series of 42 beautifully executed lithographs illustrating the ancient Greek fable of Daphnis and Chloe, the arcadian shepherd lovers who turn out to be the abandoned children of aristocrats. Commissioned to illustrate the tale in 1952, Chagall famously set off to Greece in order to capture the right sense of mood. This delightfully dreamy sequence of images, drenched in luminous greens and blues, is the result. Radically different in style are the prints from Chagall’s Poemes series, which have the rough and immediate look of contemporary street posters. Old Town Hall (Stara vijećnica), Narodni trg(Piazza) (I-2)

June 21 Tribute to Dino Dvornik – Kontra regula A festival dedicated to one of Croatia’s finest musicians who recently passed away will take place at Bačvice. The festival is a one day musical extravaganza with both Croatian and foreign performers. As Dino himself was praised for his live shows and also experimented with electronic music. Punters are bound to see and hear a bit of both with the likes of Josipa Lisac, Gibonni, Oliver, Marijan Ban, Neno Belan, TBF and others. Bačvice beach(D-3) Photo by Dancing Bear

June 10 - 30 A festival of street entertainers Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musicians……and many more are set to dazzle at the 3rd international festival of street entertainers in Split! Twenty days of fun and excitement including free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, and other city locations including the Fruit Square, Piazza, Riva etc. June 15 - Septemeber 15 Summer Concert Programme See some of the local up and coming stars present their talents across three stages set along the Riva, Piazza and in Diocletian’s Cellars. For further information call 32 21 11 or email piano1@st.t-com.hr

The Dalmatian Klapa If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark then it would undoubtedly be the stirring sound of the klapa. Performing a capella songs with delicate harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir numbering anything from three members upwards. Often made up of informal groups of friends with an instinctual feel for age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important focus of local life and a source of considerable pride for the communities they come from. Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns: falling in love over a plate of squid, going night fishing with the lads, or pining for partners who are sailing the seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the smooth and soulful, the style retains a raw emotional edge: hearing a klapa perform live – whether on stage at a festival or simply serenading themselves at the table of a konoba – can send shivers down the spine. Best places to experience klapa singing at its best are the Omiš Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features outdoor concerts in the centre of Omiš throughout the month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Evenings (Večeri dalmatinske pisme; www.vdp.hr) in Kaštel Kambelovac in early July.

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10 Days of Diocletian August 15 - 24 For 10 days the Diocletian palace returns to its former glory and the city of Split transforms itself into an ancient city. Relive the past as citizens dressed in costume wander along the city streets and the Emperor himself is led on his carriage by an entourage of family and guards to the Peristil. See how he addresses the cheering crowd and when he raises his thumbs, it signals the opening of the Diocletian fiesta. There are festivities for young and old with gladiator reenactments, singers, Klape, and a street music festival. You are invited to join the Emperor himself as he ducks down into the Diocletian cellars for a Roman feast - tasting specialties made from honey, muscles, fruit, vegetables, and other unusual spices which for days had been cooked and prepared according to old recipes by famous local chefs. Visitors are able to dig in and do some major tasting with this gourmet delight. Events you cannot miss: August 16 ‘A week in celebrating the return of Marko Polo’ The event opens with the arrival of Marko Polo’s ship which will dock in Split. From there, extracts taken from his books will be read to the public with the aid of music and some figures of historical importance reincarnated in costume. See how uneducated Europeans were introduced to gun powder, coal, silk, porcelain, pasta and paper money. The event turns out to be a true fiesta as the nights end with a fireworks show. Other highlights of the festival include: August 21 Follow in the footsteps of Emperor Diocletian and see how he retells his story and is accompanied by a legendary group from Rome called ‘Gruppo Storico Romano,’ who will once again be guests at the festival. Peristil(J-2) August 23 Since Split is famous for its football, the grand finale of the festival will be a game of Roman football between the Romans and Dalmati. It will be held in the evening hours at the Prokurative(I-2)

July 7 Arctic Monkeys One of the most exciting new bands from Britain is coming to the Prokurative. This will be their first ever concert in Croatia. They have so far released two mega popular albums and won an impressive number of awards, including five British Awards. These lads fuse rock with a modern commercial sound and sure to put on a great show this July. Prokurative (I-2)

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Summer 2009

cultuRE & EVEnts Exhibitions June 1 - 7 An exhibition arranged by the sculpting department of the Art Academy in Split, MKC Gallery, Savska bb(D/E-2) June 2 - 18 An exhibition of paintings by Jože Marinča (Slo), Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) June 5 - 24 A contest exhibition by the Crometeo Association, meteorological photography, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2) June 15 - 21 Ante Slatin, The Napredak Society; an exhibition of prints and drawings, The Conservatory Department Gallery, Porinova 2(I-1) June 17 - July 5 An exhibition ‘Fields of Memory’ by artists Alemka Đivoje / Tanja Perisić / Goran Tomčić, MKC Gallery, Savska bb(D/E-2) June 23 - July 9 An exhibition of paintings by Aleksandra Rotar, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) June 26 – July 14 Nenad Reberšak: Croatia, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2) July 1 – 19 An exhibition of posters from the collection of Petar Ivulić, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2) July 14 - July 28 An exhibition of paintings by Vladimir Meglić, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) and The Milesi Palace July 16 – August 4 Ivan Filipin: Retrospective exhibition, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2)

cultuRE & EVEnts July 14 - August 14 The 55th Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in ambient venues throughout the inner and outer Split historical centre. Together with the local production by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance perfomances from Croatia and abroad. Peristil(J-2), Cellars of the Diocletian’s Palace(J-2), Crikvine Kaštelet(A-3), Prokurative(I-2) July 18 Perspectives International Cultural Fair Perspectives will welcome the most progressive artists of our time to provoke and entertain you with new views on art and life. This unique living gallery has never been shown before. A sample is offered on the web site, but the complete experience is only available live. Visitors will have the chance to actively take part in some performances! Admission free. Hotel Adria, Kaštela July 25 – August 01 The Atlantis Summer Challenge This is daredevil paradise people! A festival of skateboard culture will offer visitors a cultural, musical and competitive insight into the skate scene. The wider audience will enjoy the exhibitions and extreme tricks by skaters and the event also includes a top rate music programme by Croatian and foreign DJs. Lovorka Magaš

August 20 - September 01 International Gathering of Sculptors and Painters, Nečujam on the Island of Šolta Art buffs take note! This event is organized by Split’s ‘Kula Gallery’ and it gathers some top rate artists from Croatia and abroad. Artworks are presented and displayed at one of the most beautiful and biggest bays on the island of Šolta. August 24 – 27 Jazz Festival One way to turn up the heat this summer is by attending the annual jazz festival which takes place along the Split Riva, in front of the British Consulate. Expect to see dozens of jazz musicians from Croatia and abroad, and one of the picks from the festival line-up includes British guitarist John Etheridge who performs with his trio. He has a glowing reputation throughout the jazz world and has spent years playing with the iconic Stephane Grappelli, and the legendary jazzfusion group The Soft Machine. Other performances include the Croatian Telefon Blues Band, Sinan Alimanović (piano, keyboards) and that’s just the beginning. Riva(I-2/3) September 12 – 19 Split Film Festival Since 1996, this international festival of new film, video and new media; promotes art of the moving picture whilst supporting the author and research approach, especially focusing on works made off the film. The program is divided into a feature movie, short movie, video and new media competition. www.splitfilmfestival.hr

October-December Splitgraphics IV- Split’s Graphic Biennial Splitgraphic IV will be held during the months of October, November and December and across numerous exhibition spaces all over town. A sequence of exhibitions will represent graphic authors from Croatia and all over the world. splitgraphic@gmail.com

Heritage clothing of the Baranja Croats July 20 – August 9 Ina Aljinović Alfirević- Boats, an exhibition of acrylic paintings, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2) July 25 – August 1 Eric Antoine, Jaka Babnik, Sergej Vutuć – an exhibition of photography (part of the skate culture festival Atlantis summer challenge 2009), Conservatory Department Gallery, Porinova 2(I-1) August 3 - 21 An exhibition of paintings by Joža Ciuh (Slo), Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) and Milesi Palace August 6 - 24 Joca Znidaršić: Slovenia, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2) August 10 – 31 Patryk Sautour- From Hvar to Trogir, an exhibition of photographs, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2) September 1 – 16 Narcisa Poljak- Lamps, an exhibition of lamps, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2) September 5 - 26 A retrospective exhibition by videoartist Nam June Paik, MKC Gallery, Savska bb(D/E-2) September 11 - 24 Croatian News Photography 2009. (Cro Press Photo), Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2) September 17 – October 5 Lenka Zaviršek- The sea and coastline, an exhibition of aquarelle paintings, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2)

Split In Your Pocket

August 09 The 294th Sinj Alka A traditional knight’s tournament of alkari, held in memory of the Cetinska krajina people who fought against the Turks, on August the 15th in 1715. A vivid contest which represents a lucky mixture of riding a horse, and whilst galloping trying to hit the ‘alka’ (an iron ring put on a string at 332cm) with a spear that’s 295cm long. The Alka is divided into three races: the first day Bara, the second day Čoja and the third day Alka. The winners take home financial awards, special placards and most of all prestige. It’s a cultural spectacle. Sinj, Alkar’s Race Road

Fashion these days comes and goes but when it comes to preserving your heritage and culture, then the clothing of old always remains true and any change would cause an upheaval. The Ethnographic Museum in Split presents their collection of over 50 original textile artefacts which represent a fine example of clothing and accessories from the Podunavlje Baranja region. Museum directors found value in these hand-woven pieces of clothing and collected them throughout different periods of the first half of the 20th century. Devotees of design, art, material and pattern in clothing will come to appreciate such fine exponents of traditional attire.

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Summer 2009

Go GouRmEt Expectations of Croatian cuisine are usually based around the rich diversity of fresh fish, squid, lobster and shellfish supplied by the Adriatic Sea. Unsurprisingly, this maritime bounty forms the backbone of most restaurant menus. However it would be a mistake to assume that this was all that local culinary culture had to offer. Croatia’s coastal regions have preserved a wealth of age-old regional specialities, many of which are coming back into fashion having for decades been looked down on as simple peasant food. Home-made pasta with a goulash-type sauce is one Adriatic staple that is found in traditional konobe or inns all along the coast. Twizzles of home-made pasta called fuži are still common in Istria and the northern Adriatic, while the island of Krk has preserved the tradition of making šurlice, succulent macaroni-like twists made from flour-and-egg dough. These traditional pastas are usually served with some kind of lamb or beef stew, depending on which form of livestock prevails. Dubrovnik and the nearby islands are famous for šporki makaruni (literally “dirty macaroni”) a meaty goulash served with home-made macaroni and dusted with grated hard cheese.

Go GouRmEt Froggy flavours The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally considered a staple of working families, frogs’ legs are now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to seek out the best frog recipes. In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding restaurants, the Lovac (tel. 83 12 68) and the Čaporice in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (tel. 83 17 70).

Other peasant staples which you will encounter up and down the coast include bobići (bean stew with sweetcorn) and maneštra (a thick vegetable broth). In southern Dalmatia, zelena maneštra (“green maneštra”) is made my boiling up the bones of a home-cured cured pork leg and adding potato and cabbage. Cabbage used to be a staple vegetable throughout the region, and still forms the key ingredient in arambaše - cabbage leaves stuffed with minced beef, pork and bacon which are a speciality of inland Dalmatia, especially around the town of Sinj. Each of the islands has preserved highly individual dishes which can’t always be found on the mainland. Gregada (a mixture of fish stewed in white wine) is prepared by almost all the restaurants in Hvar, but rarely crops up in places which are only a short ferry ride away. The island of Vis is well known for a unique savoury pie known as the pogača, which wraps a salty fish filling (usually anchovies or sardines) inside light flaky pastry. These pogačas are sold in all the bakeries on the island, although there’s a crucial difference in recipe depending on whether you buy it in the town of Vis or the town of Komiža (the Komiža version comes with a tangy dash of tomato).

Several islands are known for their spectacular sweets, many of which can be bought in delicatessens throughout the region. The Kvarner island of Rab is famous for the Rapska torta, a baton-shaped cake made from marzipan and rolled in sweet pastry. The inhabitants of Korčula are notoriously sweet-toothed, with locally-made kroštule (deep-fried pastry twists) and cukarine (crescent-shaped biscuits flavoured with orange and lemon) making the ideal tea-time treat. Paprenjaci from Korčula and Hvar are biscuits made from a blend of honey and pepper, not dissimilar to gingerbread in taste. In Dubrovnik you should definitely try rožata, a syrup-topped custard similar to crème caramel.

Anyone touring the Adriatic coast by car is sure to pass roadside restaurants where whole lamb carcasses revolve slowly over open fires in the car park. The resulting spitroast meat is delicious served with raw spring onion and potatoes. Lamb from the Adriatic islands and the Dalmatian hinterland is considered to have a particularly delicate taste, thanks largely to the wide variety of aromatic herbs scoffed by the beasts while grazing. Lamb from Pag is particularly tasty, on account of the crystals of sea-salt deposited on the sage-covered hillsides that serve as pasture. Another highly individual local way of preparing lamb is to cook the meat in a peka, a lidded vessel which is placed in an open fire and then covered with embers to ensure a long slow bake. On the Dalmatian islands the peka method is also used to bake octopus, as well as the larger fish such as zubatac (dentex) or grdobina (frogfish).

Chewbacca loves Split www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009

WHERE to stay

Go GouRmEt

and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800 meters of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This sate of the art new hotel complex is located 8 kilometers from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (364 doubles €490, 2 suites €1100, 13 Junior Suite €650, 2 Presidential Suite €2200). POTHA6UFLGBKDChhhhh Paradiso J-2, Andrićeva bb, tel. 36 26 98/ 098 36 17 24, fax 36 27 35, michel@inet.hr, www.paradisomichel.hr. Paradiso is an apartment type hotel that‘s run as a family business. It‘s easily located in the centre of the city and amenities include a small restaurant, internet connection plus additional services such as rent a limousine with a driver or even cruise services. Rooms are equipped with TV, DVD and video as well as a Jacuzzi or sauna if you choose. The bus station and other means of transport are close by. Q2 rooms (1 single 1200kn, 1 double 1200kn). P6NDhhhhh

Olive oil

Olives have played a small but integral part in world history, yet nobody ever really notices this. Think about it, winners at the first Olympics were given an olive wreath to wear on their heads, we extend an olive branch as a sign of peace, and even Popeye’s lanky girlfriend was named Olive Oil. The signs are clear, if olives are good enough for athletic glory, peace, and a belligerent sailor, they’re good enough for all of us. By now we’ve all heard that olive oil is an integral part of the “Mediterranean diet” which medicine has associated with sensible portions and slower, more enjoyable eating. Studies have shown that those who partake in the “Mediterranean diet” to have a remarkable variety of health benefits. It’s even suggested that olive oil decreases the rate of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, it helps lower dangerous blood cholesterol and is rich in vitamins and antioxidants. How about that? A combination of olive oil and a diet rich in vegetables and fish is healthy, delicious, and satisfying! The Adriatic coast has a centuries old tradition of olive harvesting and processing to reap the benefits of olive oil. From the northern coast to Dubrovnik and all the islands included, olive trees dot the landscape throughout the Croatian Adriatic. Olive oil today is still as important a part of the diet in Dalmatia as it always was. And in spite of some minor technological advances the process is more or less the same. Olives are picked from the end of October to the end of the Christmas period, and there are a few of methods of doing so. Some pickers hack away at branches, collecting the whole thing and plucking olives off one by one later. Other growers use a rake to bring down the olives, or a more painstaking route is to pick individual goodies straight from the tree. The results are collected in a box called a Takalać, which the pickers later sift through to sort out the fruit from the twigs and leaves. After the harvest comes the pressing part. Literally. Back in the day, the olives would be pressed on a stone wheel turned

either by hand or maybe beast of burden. The olives would be set on a mat and put under the wheel, squeezing them to a pulp as all the juicy goodness ran out of them. Today, most olives are no longer pressed by stone wheel, they’re drained using hydraulic presses. The rest of the process is really no different from the old school days. The first press yields the extra virgin oil, that is the oil of the highest quality, which must be made from green olives that are not too ripe. Subsequent pressing of the pulp will get you more olive oil, but the quality isn’t quite the same as the first. Some homes on the coast still use a stone basin to hold the oil, but usually it’s placed in bottles (glass is the best for the oil) and stored for the coming winter and summer. Once bottled, the oil has a lifespan of about 2 years. A lot of locals in Dalmatia sell their oil to tourists, and it’s good stuff. The oil should have a greenish tint and strong aroma. A liter usually costs about 15 Euro, but haggling can’t hurt. Get there and buy some home made oil, all of you! This text has been created to acquaint the public with the olive growing tradition - it is not a scientific or expert text.

Upmarket

Cream of the crop Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. 20 00 00, fax 20

01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. You‘re not in the middle of the action if you‘re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q101 rooms (99 singles €130 - 185, 99 doubles €150 - 305, 2 apartments €460 - 550). PHA6UFGKDChhhhh Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. 50 05 00, fax 50 06 09, info_split@lemeridien.com, www. lemeridien.com/split. Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

C Swimming pool

D Sauna

6 Animal friendly

Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. 30 23 02, fax 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.hr. If you‘re a business traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a car, you‘ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either way, you‘ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishly-decorated room with Internet access included in the price. Q36 rooms (36 singles 905kn, 36 doubles 1197kn). PHAULGBKhhhh Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. 35 00 00/ 35 00 05, fax 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www.hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (30 singles €117, 30 doubles €138, 18 Twin Rooms €138, 4 Family Rooms €186). PHAULGK hhhh Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. 48 11 11, fax 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www.hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that usually doesn‘t fail to satisfy. Q38 rooms (33 singles €113 - 139, 33 doubles €124 - 178, 5 triples €146 - 217). PHA6LNKhhhh Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. 30 80 60/ 091 629 01 99, fax 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.com, www. marmonthotel.com. Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge). All rooms have parquet floors, creamy colour schemes and views of neighbouring, green-shuttered buildings. There is a reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been made with splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21 singles €125 - 178, 21 doubles €198 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €1165 - 1805). PALGhhhh More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. 46 21 12, fax 46 22 01, hotelmore@hotelmore.hr, www. hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascade-style building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (8 singles €95, 8 doubles €116, 1 apartment €120 - 150). PAULG hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

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Summer 2009

WHERE to stay Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. 40 64 00/ 40 64 06, fax

40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.hotelpark-split. hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel‘s life. There‘s no pool, the rooms‘ bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not to love. Q57 rooms (21 singles €131 - 145, 33 doubles €188 - 206, 2 apartments €359, 1 Presidential Suite €455). PHA6ULGBKDhhhh President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. 30 52 22, fax 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpresident. hr. Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q73 rooms (8 singles €127 - 205, 55 doubles €127 - 233, 1 Junior Suite €253, 9 Presidential Suite €368). PHA6ULGBK hhhh Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4, tel. 32 93 29, fax 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for Split‘s visiting elite. Q7 rooms (2 singles €147 - 198, 3 doubles €175 - 272, 1 Luxury Suite €272 - 405, 1 Junior Suite €200 - 315). PALGBKhhhh

Old-School charm Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. 34 56 44, fax 36 23 83, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue-split.hr, www. hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today‘s hotel Bellevue is located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a former hotel used to offer curing baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name »Grand hotel Bellevue«, and was later renovated in 1934. Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today‘s hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 670kn, 34 doubles 923kn, 3 triples 1180kn, 3 apartments 1240kn). PALGBK hh

Mid-range Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. 34 00 00, fax 34 00 08, info@hotel-adriana.hr, www. hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700kn, 11 doubles 950kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn). PABK hhh

www.inyourpocket.com As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. 36 61 00, fax 36 61 11, info@ hotelas-split.com, www.hotelas-split.com. If you‘re willing to travel a bit to get to it, this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles 600kn, 33 doubles 800kn). PALKhhh Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. 34 01 30, fax 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen minutes‘ walk from the center. Q 19 rooms (4 singles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments €205). PHALGBK hhhh Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax 34 39 12, tel. 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.com, www.kastelsplit. com. One of the best values for small guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 single 340 - 560kn, 4 doubles 490 - 750kn, 1 triple 550 - 900kn, 1 apartment 560 - 910kn, 2 Family Rooms 760 - 1170kn). PAG hhh Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. 32 90 70, fax 32 90 88, hotel.peristil@email.t-com.hr, www. hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn‘t anywhere in the neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €135, 9 doubles €162). PA6BK hhh

Budget Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. 53 80 25/ 53 80 27, fax 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.hoteldujam. com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (33 singles €58 - 71, 33 doubles €73 - 96, 2 apartments €86 - 120). PHALGK hh Slavija I-2, Buvinina 2, tel. 32 38 40, fax 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.com, www.hotelslavija.com. Slavija‘s stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25 rooms (2 singles €112, 16 doubles €140 - 176, 4 triples €167, 2 4-bedded room €193, 1 5-bedded room €210). PA6LG hhh

Hostel Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. 49 08 05, silver.central@hotmail.com, www.silvercentralhostel. com. Bright, high-ceilinged apartment with a welcoming reception/common room and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own internet terminal. Q4 rooms (3 6-bed dorms 150 - 180kn, 1 8-bed dorm 150 - 180kn). PJN

Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

WHERE to stay The Inhabitants of Split To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split – referred to as Splićani – are one distinct group of people. There are, however, a few distinct groups that exist in the social landscape. The first, and oldest, group of people are the fetivi, the people descended from Split’s old urban families. They are characterized, stereotypically, by their unique way of talking, which is considered to be very fast. Split’s fetivi are complimented by the boduli, people originally from the islands of the Adriatic who, again stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality, quick thinking and keeping to themselves to themselves. Relatively recently, these two groups were joined by the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of Dalmatia and now populate the high-rises that encircle the city. The vlaji are the rough and tumble survivors, accustomed to hardships and the rougher side of life. The distinctions between these groups, however, are fading fast, especially considering the arrival of the latest social group to emerge in Split, namely an influx of immigrants from Hercegovina who came seeking a new life in Croatia’s second largest city.

Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. 32 28 57/ 098 46 38

19, info@silvergatehostel.com, www.silvergatehostel. com. Run by the same team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment building with fine views of the Palace‘s eastern gate. Q4 rooms (3 6-bed dorms 150 - 180kn, 1 8-bed dorm 150 - 180kn). PNW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. 34 27 87, info@splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement bar. Q4 rooms (1 5-bedded dorm €20 - 25, 3 6-bedded dorms €20 - 25). PGW

Private accomodation Jupiter J-2, Grabovčeva širina 1, tel./fax 34 48 01, mail@hotel-jupiter.info, www.hotel-jupiter.info/hr. A family-run establishment, Jupiter can boast a superb location in the middle of Split‘s night-life area and offers rooms that, while clean and comfortable, aren‘t exactly the most luxurious in town. That being said, they‘re not the most expensive, either. Q4 rooms (3 doubles 250kn, 1 triple 250kn). PJN

Out of town Adria Franje Tuđmana bb, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. 79 81 40,

fax 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria.hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 6:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria‘s location can afford you a few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2 singles €51 - 61, 5 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €98 - 117). PALBKhhh

Split In Your Pocket

WHERE to stay Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar,

Reserve a room at split.inyourpocket.com

tel. 63 11 33, fax 63 13 44, sales@watermanresorts. com, www.watermanresorts.com. Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea have a lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on Brač. Given the fact that it‘s part of a consortium of hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located right on the beach. Q440 rooms (78 singles €100 - 131, 78 doubles €64 - 85, 277 triples €64 - 85, 63 suites €92 - 116, 22 Junior Suite €73 - 94). PTHAUFLGBKDC hhhh

Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. 88 51 85, 88 16 29/

091 484 84 34, fax 79 77 29, info@hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn, 1 apartment 1200kn). PAGBK hhh San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. 33 61 11, fax 33 53 48, info@hotel-sanantonio.com, www.hotelsanantonio.com. The words “San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23 rooms (15 singles €136 - 154, 15 doubles €156 - 199, 15 triples €198 - 234, 6 suites €220 312, 2 Penthouse €178 - 269). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh

Hvar

Croatia Majerovića b.b., Hvar, tel. 74 24 00, fax 74 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelcroatia.net. Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28 rooms (22 doubles €34 - 80, 6 Family Rooms €34 - 80). PJAFLGBK hhh Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. 75 01 00/ 75 07 50, fax 75 01 01, reservations@suncanihvar.com, riva-reception@ suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, seethrough glass windows on the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these details, and you‘ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour. Q56 rooms (48 doubles €199 - 309, 8 suites €339 - 515). PA6UFLGKDChhhh The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. 74 19 66/ 90 69 46, fax 74 24 20, reservations@suncanihvar.com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldn‘t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4 singles €120, 58 doubles €139 - 216, 11 suites €238 - 271). PHA6GKDChhh

Islands Brač Aparthotel Perla Put Vele luke 53, Supetar, tel. 75 55 30/ 091 335 29 49, fax 75 55 47, info@perlacroatia.com, www.brackaperla.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers combine, they form: Aparthotel Perla! But seriously folks! This is an absolutely genius choice if you‘re looking for a touch of class during your stay in Supetar. Eleven fully furnished rooms decked out with chic Italian furniture look out onto a lovely pool and deck area and, from the terrace, the sea and the islands stretch out into the horizon. Plus, there‘s a sauna and gym onsite. Q11 rooms (3 doubles 1260 - 1840kn, 8 suites 1430 - 2390Kn). PAFGDChhhh Bluesun Hotel Borak Bračka cesta 13, Bol, tel. 30 62 02, fax 30 62 15, borak@bluesunhotels.com, www. bluesunhotels.com. The lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters from the beach and close to town centre. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €38 - 102, 3 suites €215 - 395, 48 Family Rooms €53 - 139). PTAFLGKChhhh Palača Dešković Pučišća, Brač, tel. 77 82 40, fax 77 82 56, h.palaca-deskovic@st.t-com.hr, www.palacadeskovic.com. This restored Renaissance palace from 1467 is a registered cultural monument. It has been transformed into a luxurious four-star hotel. All rooms are fully equipped and guests can indulge in the hotel restaurant or aperitif bar. The menu is crammed with local cuisine and home-brewed wine. Q13 rooms (7 Standard Room €124 - 206, 6 Junior Suite €150 - 248). PALGBKhhhh Pastura Postira, tel. 74 00 00/ 63 21 00, fax 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpastura.hr. It‘s perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Q46 rooms (31 doubles €37 - 82, 15 suites €41 - 86). PAUFLGBKDC hhhh split.inyourpocket.com

Vis Biševo Ribarska 72, Komiža, tel. 71 32 79/ 71 31 44,

fax 71 30 98, info@hotel-bisevo.com, www.hotel-bisevo. com. Probably the best bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Q130 rooms (2 singles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn, 5 apartments 300 - 463kn). PTAFLBKD hh Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. 71 11 24, fax 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone‘s throw from the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a balcony looking out onto the bay. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles 235 - 460kn). PALGBK hhh

split.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009

REstauRants

REstauRants Symbol key

Split offers you a chance to taste various specialties such as ‘fish on the grill, cooked lamb, brudet…’ As you search on where to dine, the category titled ‘Traditional restaurants’ greatly encompasses a range of Croatian restaurants with rich, traditional, old homemade meals. Restaurants in other categories also offer a smorgasbord of different menus including Mediterranean. So whilst you enjoy your stay, you have every possibility to try something outstandingly new with various combinations ranging from meat, fish and right through to vegetarian meals.

International Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 60, info@ adriatic-graso.com, www.adriatic-graso.com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog preporoda 8, tel. 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? Its prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGB Bistro Black Cat K-3, Šegvićeva 1, tel. 49 02 84. Providing culinary diversity at a moderate price, Black Cat is a unique institution in Split, and is gathering a growing army of devoted regulars as a result. The repertoire runs from cooked English breakfasts to lunchtime sandwiches and salads, and a main-course menu that embraces Thai, Indonesian, Mediterranean and veggie options. A secluded outdoor terrace and affordable cocktails make it a good place Split In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

B Outside seatingde

to drink as well. Whatever you order, try and leave room for the outstanding desserts, which are made in-house rather than ordered from the mainstream bakeries. The more you travel around the Adriatic, the more you‘ll realise what a valuable culinary haven the Black Cat actually is. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 60kn). PAB Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. 54 33 00, info@ restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared in traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGB Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium, 1 st floor), tel. 20 01 32, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean‘s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAGB Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. 54 81 00, mail@ restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr. This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre Koteks. It‘s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB Il posto E-3, Put Firula 47, tel. 38 92 88/ 091 506 98 63, www.ilposto.hr. Italian pasta, perhaps pašticada (stewed beef cooked in a special sauce) or a number of other meals with homemade bread, fine service and pleasant interior awaits you in Zenta bay. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 90kn). PAB Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. 32 22 65/ 38 88 83, www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant in the rambling boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It‘s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). PAB

Pizza Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more closely resemble a soup if you don‘t give it time to cool. There‘s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus for the economically challenge is the relatively miniscule price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings: fereroni (peppers), fruiti de mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive), rajčica / pamidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon), šunka (ham). Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. 34 79 32. The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that‘s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (27 - 90kn). PA

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Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. 48 63 33. You‘ve got to make a

bit of an effort to get here for its right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50 metres, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you‘ll find Gust, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (34 - 49kn). PA Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. 31 49 88. A cute little restaurant that‘s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 90kn). PB Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. 38 47 77. There are 2 Velo Misto‘s, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular tv series with performances by top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 130kn). PA

Fast food Art&čoka I-2, Obrov 2, tel. 34 60 03, articok@ hotmail.com. Small bu t ver y tast y selection of sandwiches, with tuna salad, roast vegetables, pesto and other Mediterranean flavours predominating. Also serves salads and take-out coffees. Sandwiches in the 18-20kn range. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Fab Food I-2, Narodni trg 12, tel. 33 25 25. Hole in the wall snack-stop right on the main square, offering tortilla wraps with a range of fillings, plus burgers, salads, sandwiches and breakfast fare such as filled croissants or yoghurt with muesli. No seating, but if you‘re drinking coffee at the next-door café you can bring your fab-food order with you. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. 39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving of čevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There‘s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Mc Donald‘s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker), tel. 49 33 20. It is there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAB Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. 34 83 49/ 091 574 07 64. Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. 34 50 15.

Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the name ‘The Golden Gate‘ and is surrounded by a lovely courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads are significantly filling. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). PNB

Seafood Šumica E-3, Put Firula 6, tel. 38 98 97/ 38 98 95. The

view from this restaurant is directed toward the Brač canal and in the shade of the terrace you are sure to enjoy the seafood specialties with a choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 280kn). PALGB Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. 48 86 48, www.botasare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach and packed with a fresh seafood menu; this eatery is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (30 - 600kn). PAB Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 89 00/ 098 79 99 83, jskare@globalnet.hr, www.restaurant-jugo.com. Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAB Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. 091 405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo. hr. Here‘s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you‘ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PN Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. 31 72 49. Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace; when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ simply turn right. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAB Stelon E-3, Gospinica 3, tel. 48 92 00. For the complete experience - the menu is loosely Mediterranean with plenty to choose, it overlooks the beach, contemporary décor blends with the relaxed ambience. Reservations are a safe option during summer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAB

Summer 2009

REstauRants

Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. 38 67 63/ 098 85 41 10.

Traditional Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. 34 69 99. A cute buffet

restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split Riviera. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PAB Bekan E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. 38 94 00/ 099 389 40 01. Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Dalmatian cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Bekan is just one of the many delights on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 300kn). PAGB Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48 01, konoba.terra@ambo.hr. This cellar wine bar located in Bačvice stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage, prosciutto as well as dishes infused with spicy Istrian truffles. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (60 - 150kn). PA Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. 34 52 23/ 091 737 31 12, polujic@net.hr, www.buffet-fife.com. Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife‘s only drawback

Split In Your Pocket

is its popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNB Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. 091 767 58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simple have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings‘ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The muscles and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PN Kibela J-2, Kraj sv.Ivana 5, tel. 34 62 05/ 091 404 90 40. A small, homey restaurant hidden away in the palace complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfying list of meat and seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh every day. The food is the perfect size for lunch and is brought out virtually instantaneously by the polite and attentive staff. Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (35 - 80kn). PNB Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. 34 73 97, kod.joze@ gmail.com. Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 400kn). PAB Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It‘s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue fish or octopus. It‘s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 100kn). PA

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Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain‘t bad, actually it‘s quite good. It‘s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 90kn). PALB Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. 48 91 06/ 091 565 46 27. With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you‘re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn). PAB Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. 38 96 06/ 091 121 30 15, pimpinella@net.hr. A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of the family house with a menu that includes grilled meals, pašticada, shank, roast lamb with vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (45 - 70kn). PAB

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Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. 34 87 10/ 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. (40 - 70kn). PN

Vegetarian Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. 39 44 40, info@ makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you‘re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or vetch…you‘ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 65kn). PNG

Summer 2009

caFÉs As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of Split‘s old town, you‘ll encounter more cafes and bars than you can shake a stick at and the summer season will offer you no end of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist or local.

Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes from someone‘s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJB Caffe Gallery Ave I-2, Rodrigina 4, tel. 32 26 27/ 091 527 96 63. The avenue has a soulful vibe so, come in for a well-served and welcoming coffee accompanied with a fresh croissant within this café - art exhibit space. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGB Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. 34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here‘s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they‘d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it‘s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It‘s name translates to the Italian fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PGB Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. 34 82 57. In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk. Q Open 07:00-01:00, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00 and 20:00 - 01:00. PNGB Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. 38 91 01/ 091 206 11 51, 098 941 98 86. If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay, boats, the smell of the sea, it‘s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAGB

niGHtliFE Kavana Procaffe C-2, Špinutska 67, tel. 38 43 23,

info@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the mainland and one of the many Kaštela towns of Split and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there‘s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. 34 10 82, ljuba.rogulj@ kavanalvxor.com, www.kavanalvxor.com. A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor‘s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There‘s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAB

Desserts Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda

20, tel. 34 79 62, www.bobis-svagusa.hr. A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city‘s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it‘s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It‘s close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PNB Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. 36 10 70. This is the oldest confectionary in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. PNG

Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. 098 21 53 79. If you prefer

an intimate affair, come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square (Voćni trg) giving a sense of the friendly local crowd atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. B Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. 36 25 96. Yep, the interior is all done up in Teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00. PNB Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. 091 311 09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNB Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. 39 48 88/ 098 64 13 76. A small but charming place for a break in between checking out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB

Split In Your Pocket

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Being as it is a city that thrives on tourism, Split by night is chock full of people wandering around who are in the area for only a night or two. Depending on your mood, this can be extremely interesting or mildly annoying. Either way, you’re sure to find a few bars that are open and pumping until early into the morning hours or sufficiently tucked away that you can escape the visiting hordes.

Bars Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7 (Martinski prolaz). Nestled alongside a group of narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10, tel. 36 00 50. Furry, fluffy seats complimented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNB Lounge bar Art I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. 49 09 45. Through Art you pass under a narrow entryway until you find yourself in an old-style courtyard with a white minimalistic space where morning coffees beckon, and the lounge bar spreads out to two more levels where the nights (particularly Fridays and Saturdays) get you in the mood with pumping DJ‘s and Studio 54. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There‘s plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9. Claustrophobic orangecoloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you‘ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu‘s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czechbrewed Lobkowicz, it‘s also an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Red room J-2, Cararina poljana 4, tel. 45 92 31, alexatpos@yahoo.com. Hang out of a more mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PB St Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, tel. 099 694 48 49/ 098 31 49 01, info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. JB

Guides in an instant... Did you know you can download free instant guides to many of our In Your Pocket destinations? They’re 12-page versions featuring a careful selection of hotels, restaurants and other useful information. Simply go to our international homepage, www.inyourpocket.com. You’ll see a banner at the top “Download instant guides”. Click on it, and a new page will open up. Choose the city you want, click and print! You’re ready to go!

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Fine lookin´ Ladies Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful women and most will point you directly to Split (even the bitter females of the population). A strange and nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are known especially for the combination of amazing height, ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features and a scorn for writers of city guides

Clubs Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 3, split@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won‘t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won‘t even make it past the door. This will be Split‘s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. PABW Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. 095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle (located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You‘re invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. PB O‘Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. 098 36 42 62, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups of Split‘s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you‘re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. B Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Meštrovićevo šetalište 35, tel. 35 82 80. This place is noted as a popular hang-out, named after the locals and situated just under Kaštelet towards Marjan. Swing by and stay for the parties and concerts all summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Quasimodo D-2, Gundulićeva 26. Located on the first floor of an anonymous grey block that doesn‘t immediately look like the natural habitat of rock and roll, Quasimodo is one of your best bets for live blues, jazz and alternative rock. The programme comprises local wannabes alongside leading acts from Croatia and the western Balkans. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Treće poluvrijeme (Kuka) C-2, Zrinsko-Frankopanska 17. The expression ‘treće poluvrijeme‘ points (3rd half-time) out that after all football games are played in town there is still a place where one can hang out and have fun and that place is known as Kuka, named after its‘ owner. Kuka is located behind the National Theatre and it offers a choice of coffees during the day and a good time out at night till late (via its other entrance). If you don‘t feel like walking, there‘s plenty of parking space out front. QOpen Fri, Sat 01:00 - 06:00. Caffe bar Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. 098 163 62 72/ 098 29 25 22. Match the look of Split‘s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You‘ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor. QOpen Fri, Sat 24:00 - 04:00.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2009

WHat to sEE Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken over by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central Split is an attraction in itself. There‘s no single must-see attraction here: it‘s really a question of taking time to stroll the palace‘s narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman, medieval and Renaissance buildings jostle together to form a unique urban jumble. And you shouldn‘t just restrict your wanderings to the city centre: residential neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš, Lučac and Manuš are filled with the kind of picturesque alleys and stone houses that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian towns. Rising above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents an easily accessible expanse of woodland park, with some fine views back towards the centre.

Essential Split Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.

A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian‘s palace has become the quintessential ‚living museum,‘ as modern shops and citizens live and work inside the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as „the basement“ was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it‘s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffe e, surroun d e d by an array of ancient architectural structures. Fish Market (Ribarnica) I2, Obrov 5. Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something‘s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain - it‘s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There‘s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.

Split In Your Pocket

WHat to sEE Galleries

Diocletian The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy, but Diocles (also Diocletian in English) is believed to have been born in about 244 near Solin, 8km away from present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 and, by establishing a strong autocracy and strengthening the military, brought an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the “Crisis of the Third Century.” One of the many distinctions of Diocletian’s rule was the creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with ending the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To distribute power and authority more evenly, Diocletian initially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after affairs in the Western regions of the Empire. In 293, desiring even more focus on civic and military matters, two more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with each leader operating out of their own capitol on the frontiers of the Empire.After twenty years of rule, Diocletian and Maximian abdicated power. Newly-appointed Tetrarchs quickly made the system of rule a formula for civil war, and this unique form of government collapsed. Diocletian saw his friends and allies turn against him and each other, with Maximian even forced to commit suicide. By this time, Diocletian was in his elaborate retirement palace that he had had constructed, the ruins of which form the core of the old town of modern-day Split. On December 3, 311, after a tumultuous life as the leader of the Roman empire, Diocletian died.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3. When ready to

escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia‘s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis. Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It‘s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching.

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Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) J-2/J-3, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. 36

01 55/ 36 01 67, gorana@mgst.net, www.mgst.net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia‘s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović‘s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist‘s former studio - including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović‘s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt

wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split‘s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol‘ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the

twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor‘s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian‘s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian‘s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.

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Summer 2009

WHat to sEE

WHat to sEE Churches

Saint Dominic‘s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 2,

tel. 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, www. dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from the Silver Gates of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic‘s Church; first mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano‘ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple‘, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00 and 19:00. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00.

The Franciscan Church and Monaster y of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. 38

Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštelet B3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. 34 08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Ivan Meštrović was undoubtedly the best Croatian artist who exemplified his skills as a sculptor, painter, architect and writer. After finishing his studies in Vienna, Meštrović breathed life into the cultural centres of Europe having exhibited his works in Rome, Prague, London, Cannes and Geneva. The post WWII period saw Meštrović move to the USA where his career continued to flourish. His works and masterpieces can be seen across famous European and American galleries including our very own Split. The Meštrović Gallery Picasso once said that all children are artists. The problem is how to remain an artist once they grow up. Meštrović lived for his art and was devoted to his cause. This was evident with the construction of his own gallery/family house which was built from 1931-1939. Its location is in the most beautiful part of Split, up on the slopes of Mount Marjan. On display are his masterpieces made from marble, wood and bronze as well as paintings and drawings created between 1905-1946. The Mediterranean garden which surrounds the gallery as well as the sea views is spectacular. Crikvine – Kaštelet During the 16th century, this was a fortified summer villa owned by one of Split’s noble families and gracefully located near Meštrović’s Gallery on the cliff above the sea. Call it a project or a personal mission, but Meštrović chose to renovate the summer villa and make it a place of holy peace and contemplation. He also built the Church of the Holy Cross and cloister. Meštrović made a big wooden cross for the church and 28 wooden reliefs with different themes from Christ’s life. This opus is considered a master piece of European sculpting art. Holy mass is held there on Sundays and during the holiday period at 09:00. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

 Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket

Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. 35 01 11/ 35 01 12, galerijaumjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Split‘s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic‘s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com, www.samostanpoljud.com. On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you‘ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothicrenaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts. The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin‘s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.

The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Located inside the Diocletian

Palace, in the hallway above the Iron Gates, you will find a baroque altar; dubbed a Byzantine icon, it was painted at around the 11th century. Preserved paintings by the artist Meneghello from 1412 are on show. Its bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia.

The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) I-2. In order to climb onto the Marjan Mountain,

pass on by the church of Saint Francis (13th century) in which there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin (1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well composer Ivan Lukačić (15481648). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.

The Church of Saint Martin (Gold gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2. The church is 1.64 meters wide and

10 meters long and it just might be the smallest church in the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is the monastery of the Dominican nuns. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius.

The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan

i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque paintings by Venetian artists.

Lovorka Magaš

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a

collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia‘s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.

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WHat to sEE Poljud Stadium Known to locals as „Poljudska ljepotica“ or „Poljud beauty,“ Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in 2012. However, as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games, the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was oficially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team‘s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida.Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‚to cheer‘), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as ‚bili‘, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the team‘s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players.

Landmarks Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. 34 49 99/ 30 69

08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www.hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia‘s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city‘s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).

WHat to sEE Prokurative I-2. Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a

large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. 32 93 40, info@armus. hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski. Even though it‘s situated north of the town centre, Split‘s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum‘s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. 36 01 71/ 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@st.t-com. hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the cities most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family‘s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 -10kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. 34 77

88/ 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you‘ll miss out on many of Split‘s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It‘s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00-14:00, Mon, Thu, 09:00 - 14:00, 17:30-20:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3, Severova 1, tel. 34 41 61, etnografski-muzej-st@st.tcom.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you‘re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia‘s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you‘re in luck. Split‘s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2, Marjan, tel. 39 45 25. Despite the presence of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split‘s zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture. And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining, there‘s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks, rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in another. The zoo‘s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Small Galleries The Conser vator y Depar tment Galler y (Konzervatorska galerija) I-2, Porinova 2. Q Open

10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Admission free. Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. 38 67 22, galerija. kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, tel. Galerija MKC, www.mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21. Closed Sun. Admission free. Salon Galić I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. 34 83 60, www. hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Q Open 10:00 -13:00, 18.00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

The cellars of Diocletian‘s Palace (Diklecijanovi

podrumi) I/J-3, hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 - 25kn.

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,

Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. 32 39 01/ 32 39 05, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum‘s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum‘s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum‘s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Photo Club Split Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. 34 75 97, info@ fotoklubsplit.hr, w w w.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugel y enjoyable gallery of contemporary photography with an imaginative programme of themed exhibitions, featuring international photographers as well as works by members of the local photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 21:30, Sat 10:30 -12:30. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

Parks

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Summer 2009

mail & pHonEs

WHat to sEE

Mobile phones

City express mail City Ex G-1, Put Mostina 10, tel. 45 70 00/ 0800 303 333, split@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen

08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Express mail DHL E-3/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. 66 51 111, hrspu@ dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed

Sat, Sun. A

Hpekspres I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 38 34 46, 34 89 90/ 062 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30

- 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. IN TIME Put Stinica bb, tel. 50 81 66/ 091 626 20 30, 091 626 20 78, split@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Over seasExpr ess J-1, Domovinskog rata 10, Dugopolje, tel. 66 01 53/ 66 01 57, split@overseas. hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

Internet places

Streets and Squares Fruit Square (Voćni trg - Trg braće Radića) I-2. Now

home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you might have guessed, fruit square. These days there‘s no fruit in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović. Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2, . From 1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many urban improvements were made under the supervision of the French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh shops and cafés.

People‘s Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) I-2. A trip

west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly reffered to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as the city‘s central meeting area and it remains so to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history exhibitions in the summer months.

Veli Varoš

You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here‘s the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you‘re calling Split for instance) followed by the subscriber‘s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber‘s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098, 099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscriber‘s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Letters up to 50 gr

Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It‘s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.

Postcrads

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T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. 0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. T-Centar Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. 0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. 34 60 02, alo2@aloalo.hr, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. 091 77 00, sluzba. za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vip centar F-1, Lička 12, tel. 091 77 00, sluzba. za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Making the call

Postal rates

Veli Varoš H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli

Split In Your Pocket

Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. 34 81 10, info100D@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half hour 10kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Mriža I-2/J-2, Kružićeva 3, tel. 32 13 20, kurziv@ hotmail.com. Old records lay stacked in the corner, pictures are on the walls and music plays lightly in the background. And, oh yeah, there are computers. It all looks exactly like a bedroom-turned-Internet point. In a good way. Internet use - 5kn/15minutes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9, tel. 34 76 61/ 091 311 42 22, info@n-c.hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15min / 5kn, price of every next minute is 0,33kn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Pvp Internet I-2, Zadarska 4/1, tel. 33 28 10/ 099 193 19 28, pvpinternet@gmail.com. Internet use - 10kn / 20minutes QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098, 099) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren‘t convenient for you.

split.inyourpocket.com

Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. 38 33 65. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Post office I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 34 89 90/ 34 52 35, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:30

- 14:30. Closed Sun.

Public telephone Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

3,50 kn 8,00 kn 1,80 kn 3,50 kn

Telephone cards You can purchase phone card (telefonska

kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15 -100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy prepaid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Summer 2009

City Bus lines

GEttinG aRound Summer Flights As summer descends it is undoubtedly the busiest time of the year with the mass influx of tourists that visit our shores. The airports in and around Croatia which include Zagreb, Pula, Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Dubrovnik have an abundant amount of seasonal flights on offer, thanks largely to the standard and low cost airline companies that connect Croatia to the rest of Europe. The distance between each airport, except for Dubrovnik, is a 4 hour drive maximum; therefore, you do not have to renounce your flight in case the airline you have chosen does not fly to the airport of your choice. Just check for the other nearest airport.Alongside the standard flights in our flight schedule for this summer in Croatia, these are the airlines which will also fly to Croatia: EasyJet, Blue1, SAS, Clickair, Iberia, Jet2, Norwegian Air, Hapagloyd, Germanwings, Centralwings, Danube Wings, SkyEurope, Jetairfly, Estonian air, Aerlingus, Flybe, Tuifly, Flyglobespan, EStonianair, Air Berlin, Wizzair, Ryanair, InterSky, Monarch,and Jat. The difficult part now is which one to choose!

Airline offices Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. 33 84

45/ 33 84 46, aeroplan@st.t-com.hr. Malev and Adria Airways agent. Office at the airport, tel. 79 62 93. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Air Berlin , www.airberlin.com. Blue1 , www.blue1.com. Croatia Airlines Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. 36 29 97, sputo@croatiaairlines.com, www. croatiaairlines.com. There is also office at the airport, tel. 021 20 33 05. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. EasyJet , www.easyjet.com. Flybe , www.flybe.com. Generalturist I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51 83/ 34 55 91, psplit@generalturist.com, www.generalturist. com. Lufthansa agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Germanwings , www.germanwings.com. InterSky , www.intersky.biz. Norwegian , www.norwegian.no. SAS Scandinavian Airlines , www.flysas.com/hr. SkyEurope , www.skyeurope.com.

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Airport Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)

Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. 20 35 55, fax 20 34 22, uprava@split-airport.hr, www.splitairport.hr. The airport is relatively small but serves a fair number of domestic and European cities. If you‘re not able to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before Croatia Airlines flights. If you didn‘t manage to blow all your kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the main hall of the airport. And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping, enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.

Airport bus If you‘re flying with Croatia Airlines, buses leave an hour and a half before each flight and will set you back 30kn. The stop is located at the corner of the Riva and start of the street leading to the bus and train stations and the ferry port. Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska bus station; tickets cost 15kn one way, leaving every 20 minutes.

Brač Airport Airport Brač Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. 55 97 01,

info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.

Summer 2009

GEttinG aRound

GEttinG aRound Buses Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,

Bus lines from Split If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts at 01:00am with buses leaving every hour thereafter. The last bus leaves at 23:59. For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 06:00 and is followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45. Dubrovnik is at the ver y sou th of Croatia and is approximately 5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 01:30 and the last at 17:15. Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 01:30 with the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour and the trip takes about 1 hour. The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to Rijeka at 22:00. There are ten bus lines towards Rijeka every day.

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Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. 060 32 77 77/ 32 91 80, fax 32 91 82, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. The main bus station isn‘t the most impressive building in town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten minutes‘ walk to the old town. If you‘re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk. The international ticket office is open 24h.

Car rental

ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 23 64/ 099 342

30 01, abc-rac@st.t-com.hr, www.rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A Budget H-3, Trumbićeva obala 12, tel. 39 92 14, std@ budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. 39 90 00/ 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Emaco E-2/E-3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines center Koteks), tel. 53 95 06/ 098 25 51 88, emaco@ emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Europcar H-3, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel. 31 53 07/ 31 53 08, info@europcar.hr, www.europcar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Hertz H-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. 36 04 55/ 091 36 04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00

- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A ITR I-3, Obala Lazareta 2, tel. 34 32 64/ 34 30 70, itrst@st.htnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Uni Rent H-2, Šperun 2, tel. 31 72 97, uni-rent.std@ st.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Domestic Flight schedule From Split Days -----6-----6-----6-

Dep. 11:55 12:00 18:05 21:00

1234567 -2----7 -----5-1-3--------6---4--7 ----5--2----7 ---4-----4-------6-----612-45-7 --3----2---------6-

06:15 07:05 07:05 07:40 12:00 12:25 12:55 13:15 13:15 13:30 15:50 17:10 19:45 20:10 21:05 22:20

To Split Destination Days 27Jun-10 Oct BRAČ/BOL DUBROVNIK ----5-DUBROVNIK ----5-DUBROVNIK 23 Jun-25 Aug OSIJEK, 23 Jun - 25 Aug -2---07:00 ZAGREB -----5--07:50 ZAGREB 1-3--607:50 ZAGREB ---4--7 08:25 ZAGREB -2---12:45 ZAGREB 1-3---13:10 ZAGREB ----5-13:10 ZAGREB -2-4--7 14:00 ZAGREB -----614:00 ZAGREB ----5-14:15 ZAGREB --3--16:35 ZAGREB -----617:55 ZAGREB 12-45-7 20:30 ZAGREB -2345-7 20:55 ZAGREB -----621:50 ZAGREB until 16 Oct 1-----23:05 ZAGREB Mon-1, Tue-2, Wed-3, Thu-4, Fri-5, Sat-6, Sun-7 Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. Arr. 12:45 12:45 18:40 21:35

Dep.

Arr.

21:00 21:35

21:35 22:10

12:05 05:40 06:15 06:45 06:55 11:00 11:35 11:50 12:00 12:50 13:35 14:05 14:40 21:20 21:20 22:45

12:55 06:25 07:00 07:30 07:40 11:45 12:20 12:35 12:45 13:35 14:20 14:50 15:25 22:05 22:05 23:30

Dep. 15:15 15:15 11:20 18:10 10:35 11:10 11:10 18:20 18:20 18:20 11:20 10:05 12:05 07:00 11:20 12:40

Arr. 17:15 17:15 15:25 22:05 12:35 15:25 15:25 22:05 22:05 22:05 15:25 11:40 13:40 09:30 14:45 22:05

16:00 16:35 16:45 11:50 15:45 10:00 10:25 15:00 11:35 18:00 06:10 13:25 11:45

20:25 19:50 20:00 15:10 17:20 11:15 11:40 16:20 13:35 19:05 09:00 14:40 15:25

International Flight schedule

Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

From Split Days -----61234567 ----5--2----7 -----61-3---123-5-------7 ------7

Dep. 12:05 06:15 07:05 13:15 07:40 06:15 06:15 13:15 13:15

-2-4--7 -----67 12345------61---5--2----7 12345--2--------5-1--------4--7 -----6-----6-2---------67 --3--612-45-7 -----612345-7 -2-4--7

06:15 13:00 14:45 10:30 06:15 13:15 14:45 12:35 14:20 14:35 06:15 13:20 07:45 08:20 16:55 14:25 16:05 10:00 15:25 06:15

split.inyourpocket.com

To Split Destination Days AMSTERDAM until 7 Oct --3---AMSTERDAM -----6AMSTERDAM 12-45-7 BARCELONA -2-4--7 BRUSSELS -----6by 17 Jun BRUSSELS 1-----by 22 Jun BRUSSELS 12..5-by 14 Jun BRUSSELS 12----7 by 21 Jun BRUSSELS -2-45-7 BRUSSELS ----5-10:30 COPENHAGEN -2-4--7 14:50 FRANKFURT -----67 16:35 FRANKFURT 12345-13:00 until 3 Oct GOTHENBURG until 26 Sep -----610:30 GOTHENBURG 1---5-17:45 ISTANBUL -2345-7 21:00 LISABON 15:10 LONDON (LGW) -2----15:45 LONDON (LGW) -----5-16:00 LONDON (LGW) 1-----10:00 LONDON (LHR) -----615:00 LYON -----609:00 MUNICH -----609:35 MUNICH -2----18:20 MUNICH -----67 16:40 PARIS 1-3--617:05 ROME 12-45-7 12:45 until 3 Oct STOCKHOLM UNTIL 3 Oct -----616:45 VIENNA 12-4567 10:55 ZURICH -2-45-7 1-Mon, 2-Tue, 3-Wed, 4-Thu, 5-Fri, 6- Sat, 7- Sun Split In Your Pocket is not responsable for scheduale changes Arr. 14:25 10:30 10:30 17:15 09:45 10:30 10:30 17:35 17:35

Summer 2009

GEttinG aRound

GEttinG aRound Marinas ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. 39 85 99/ 39 85 58, 39 85 49, m.split@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30.

Parking First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split (and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we’ve sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can continue. If you park your car on streets zoned for parking, the fee is 3kn per hour from 07:00 to 19:00, Saturdays 07:00 to 14:00. In preparation for a new zoning system, Split’s streets have been divided into distinct pricing zones complete with an SMS pay system. However, the zone pricing system has not been implemented as of yet; so, when you pay via SMS, you’ll be charged the flat rate of 3kn regardless of the zone you’re in. After you get a ticket at the box under the parking sign make sure you put it in the car window otherwise you’ll be hit with a 60kn fine and if you’re late, 15 kn for first hour, 40 kn in second hour and after 120 minutes again 60kn fine. Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 6 to 10 kunas depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum 10kuna fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock, save for the one at Boškovićeva, which runs from 07:00 to 22:00. Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. 48 10 97, info@ promet.split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

Ferries Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We‘ve expounded much on the convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the bus and train stations, but if you still don‘t know where it is, making your way there has been simplified by those handy signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening hours of each office change according to season, but during peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00 and the main office closes at midnight. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 3 to 6 euros (22-43kn) per person and 14 to 43 euros (101-312kn) for cars. Motorcycles will cost you from 6 to 12 euros (43-87kn) and bicycles from 3 euros to 5 euros (22-36kn). Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On all ferries, you‘ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it‘s not possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time. You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you from which dock the ferry leaves. Jadrolinija D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 33 83 33/ 33 83 04, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation towards the islands.It must be said that the schedule for ferry lines can get a bit complicated. See our ‘Getting Around‘section. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00. Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice, tel. 87 28 77/ 091 205 98 86, luka.tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in Jadrolinija agency. LNP I/J-3, Obala Lazareta bb, tel. 33 83 10, info@lnp. hr, www.lnp.hr. Šolta and Brač catamaran lines.Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 21:00, Sun 18:00 - 20:45. Snav D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. 32 22 52/ 32 22 53, snav@st.htnet.hr, w w w.snav.hr. Q Open 08:00 20:00. Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje 4, tel. 35 25 33, info@ splitours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Blue Line International agent. Q Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:30. From July Open 07:30 - 20:30.

Petrol station for boats INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. 39 94 84, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A

Petrol stations (0-24)

Charter BavAdria Yachting Obala kralja Tomislava bb, Kaštel

Gomilica, tel. 20 40 20/ 098 32 16 57, bavadria@ bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com. Q Open 09:00 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 31 01, split@ euromarine.hr, www.euromarine.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. 40 77 00/ 40 77 02, info@navaboats.com, www.navaboats. com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 20 15/ 098 45 22 25, orvas-office@orvas.hr, www.orvasyachting.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 78/ 098 29 46 35, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.ultra-sailing.eu. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.

INA-Pojišan Pojišanska bb, tel. 53 72 89, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A INA-Smokovik Zbora narodne garde bb, tel. 37 34 70, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A INA-Visoka G-2/G-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. 37 45 78, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Lukoil - Sirobuja G-2/G-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. 31 67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel. 21 78 31, www.omv.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you‘re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you‘ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car.

Taxis The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20 kunas, with a 10 kuna fee added per kilometre and 2.5 - 10kn added per each piece of luggage. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

Port Authority

Towed away

Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat sv.Duje

As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn‘t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been be towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you‘ll need to shell out 340kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit card are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel. 37 68 48.

1, tel. 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com.hr, www. portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Public transport Split has bus lines numbered from 1 to 19. Day buses 1 through 18 run from 05:00 to 23:00. There is only one night bus, number 19, which runs on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 10kn or from kiosks near each bus stop for 8kn. The company that operate

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Train schedule From Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Harbormaster‘s office Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster‘s office) I-3, Obala

Dep. 07:38 10:54 15:10 20:50 22:10

Lazareta 1, tel. 34 55 00/ 36 24 36.

Split In Your Pocket

Split‘s buses is called Promet Split, so make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying to buy a ticket. If you‘re trying to beat the system and riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 50kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska‘s ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services, call 40 79 99. Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. 40 78 88, promet@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

split.inyourpocket.com

Arr. 13:10 16:28 20:41 05:35 06:31

Destination ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB

To Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 06:50 11:00 15:22 21:40 22:55 23:25

Arr. 12:20 16:42 20:55 05:48 06:55 07:59

Summer 2009

GEttinG aRound Trains

Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. 060 33 34 44/ 33 85 25, www.hznet.hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station and doesn‘t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 22:55 or a night train from Split at 22:10, there‘s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car or motorbike and don‘t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 186,30 - 266,30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.

Road help HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, Starčevićeva 23,

tel. 987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial 01 46 40 800; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

...Ferries and boats From Split (SNAV highspeed ferry) Days 1234567 ( June 13 - September 06) 1234567 ( June 13 - September 06) From Split (BlueLine ferry) Days 12345-7 (till July 23 & from September 06) ----567 (July 24-26) 1234567 (July 27 - August 02) ----5-- (July 27 - August 02) 1234567 (August 03 - 09)

Dep. 17:00 17:00/19:00

Dep. 20:30 20:30 20:30 (Sat via Hvar) 10:30 20:30 (Sat via Vis, Sun via Hvar) ----567 (August 03 - 09) 10:30 (Fri&Sun via Hvar, Sat 1234567 (August 10 - 27) 20:30 via Vis) 1----67 (August 10 - 27) 10:30 20:30 (Fri via Hvar, ----567 (August 28 - 30) Sat via Vis) 12345-7 (August 31 - September 06) 20:30 From Vis (BlueLine ferry) Days Dep. -----6- (August 08 - 30, not 23:30 August 29) From Hvar-Stari Grad (BlueLine ferry) Days Dep. ----5-- (July 24) 22:30 -----6- (July 27 - August 02) 22:30 ----5-7 (August 03 - 27) 22:30 (Fri from August 14) -----67 (August 03 - 27) 07:00 (Sun via Split) From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days Dep. -2-4--7 (June - July 09 & 21:00 September 04 -30) -2-4-67( July 10 - Septem- 22:00(Sat&Sun via Stari ber 03) Grad) ----6- (June 01 - September 28) -2---- (June 05 - September 25)

Split In Your Pocket

6:00(via Stari Grad-KorčulaDubrovnik) 6:30(via Stari Grad-KorčulaDubrovnik)

To Split Days 1234567

Dep. 11:00

HVAR/PESCARA 1234567

10:30

Destination ANCONA

Destination ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA

To Split Days 123456----567 1234567 ----5-1234567

Dep. 20:30 20:30 (Fri via Hvar) 20:30 (Fri&Sat via Hvar) 10:30 20:30 (Fri&Sat via Hvar) 10:30(Sat via Vis, Sun via Hvar) 20:30 (Fri&Sat via Hvar) 10:30(Sat via Vis, Sun via Hvar) 20:30

ANCONA

----567

ANCONA

1234567

ANCONA

1----67

ANCONA

----567

ANCONA

12345620:30 To Vis Days Dep. -----610:30 (via Split) To Hvar-Stari Grad Days Dep. ----5-20:30 (August 28) ----5620:30 ----5620:30 ------7 10:30 (via Split) To Split Days Dep. 1-3-5-21:00

Destination ANCONA Destination ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA Destination ANCONA ANCONA ANCONA BARI BARI

1-3-5-21:00 ------7 11:30 --3---- (June 03 22:00 - September 30) -----6-(June 06 - 23:59 September 26)

split.inyourpocket.com

GEttinG aRound

GEttinG aRound Travel agencies Forgot your jock-strap? www.inyourpocket.com

...Ferries and boats From Split (Jadrolinija catamaran) Days 1234567 From Split (LNP catamaran) Days 1-3-5-1-3-5-------7 From Split (LNP catamaran) Days 12345-12345-(July - September 09) 12345------6-----6(July - September 09) -----6------7 ------7 ----5-(July - September 09) ----5-----6From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 15:00/16:00/ 17:00/17:45 Dep. 9:00 16:30 18:45

Destination MILNA MILNA MILNA Destination ROGAČ(Šolta) ROGAČ(Šolta)

Days 1-3-5-1-3-5-------7 Days 12345-12345--

Dep. 04:20/05:30/ 06:30/07:30 Dep. 10:00 17:30 19:45

Dep. 14:30 20:00 (Fri via STOMORSKA) 21:00 (Fri via STOMORSKA) 14:30 (via STOMORSKA) 20:00 21:00 20:45 22:15 20:00 21:00 14:30

ROGAČ(Šolta)

12345--

15:30

ROGAČ(Šolta)

-----6-

7:00

ROGAČ(Šolta) ROGAČ(Šolta) ROGAČ(Šolta) ROGAČ(Šolta) STOMORSKA(Šolta) STOMORSKA(Šolta) STOMORSKA(Šolta)

-----6-----6------7

15:45 15:45 21:30

----6----6------7

15:15(via Rogač) 15:15(via Rogač) 18:00

Dep. 01:30 (July 04-Aug 31) 05:00 08:30 11:00 14:30 17:00 20:30

Destination STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar) STARI GRAD (Hvar)

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 05:30 07:45 11:30 14:00 18:00 20:00 23:00 (July 03-Aug 30)

To Split Dep. Destination Days 06:45* ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 09:15 ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 (July 03-Aug 31) 11:45 ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 16:15 ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 18:45 ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 21:15 ROGAČ(Šolta) 1234567 *till July 2 & from Sept 01, Sun & holidays 08:30 **till July 2 & from Sept 01, Sun & holidays 07:00 To Split

From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days (June 01 - July 02&Sept 01 - 30) 1234567 1234567

Dep. 09:30 16:30

Days (July 03 - Aug 31) 1-34567 1-34567 1-34567 -2-----2-----

09:00 15:00 21:00 09:30 16:30

Split In Your Pocket

To Split Destination Days HVAR/VELA LUKA(KORČULA)/ 123456UBLI(LASTOVO)

Destination VIS VIS *Sun & holidays 07:00 VIS VIS VIS VIS VIS

Dep. 7:00 15:30

Dep. 05:30** 08:00 (July 03-Aug 31) 10:30 13:00 17:30 20:00

Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel. 49 01 30/ 49 01 29, adriatic-travel@st.t-com.hr, www.adriatic-travel.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Atlas D-3, Nepotova 4, tel. 34 63 33/ 34 30 55, atlastours.split@atlas.hr, www.atlas-croatia.com. Q

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 18:00 - 20:00. A F-tours putovanja J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. 54 22 33, info@ galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Generalturist I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51 83, info@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

...Ferries and boats From Makarska (Jadrolinija ferry) Days ( July 03 - Aug 31) 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Orebić (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Trogir (Jadrolinija ferry boat) Days 1234-61234-61234-6----5-----5--

Days 1234567 1234567

Dep. 05:30* 12:30

1-34567 1-34567 1-34567 -2-----2-----

Dep. 05:30 12:00 18:00 05:30 12:30

split.inyourpocket.com

 Split telephone code is +385-21

------7/Holidays ------7/Holidays ------7/Holidays From Split (Jadrolinija ferry boat) Days ----5--

split.inyourpocket.com

Dep. 08:00 11:00 14:30 18:00 21:00 Dep. 00:30 04:00* 05:30 06:30 07:20 08:30 09:30 10:30 11:30 12:30 13:30 14:30 15:30 16:45 18:00 19:30 21:00 22:30 Dep. 09:30/09:40/ 10:25/10:45 15:00/15:10/ 16:00/16:20 20:30/*/ 21:45/21:25 10:00/10:10*/ 11:10/10:50 19.00/*/ 20:15/19:55 09:00/*/ 09:55/10:15 18:00/18:10/ 19:00/19:20 20:30/*/ 21:45/21:25 Dep. 15:30/17:15/ 17:35

Destination SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) Destination DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) DOMINČE(Korčula) *not Sun & Holidays

To Makarska Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 To Orebić Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Destination Days SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ 1234-6DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ 1234-6DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ 1234-6DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ ----5-DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ ----5-DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ ------7/Holidays DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ ------7/Holidays DRVENIK MALI SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/ ------7/Holidays DRVENIK MALI Destination DRVENIK VELI/DRVENIK MALI

Days ----5--

Dep. 06:00 09:30 13:00 16:30 20:00 Dep. 00:01 03:30* 05:00 06:00 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:30 19:00 20:00 22:00 Dep. 06:20/06:00/*/07:15 12:30/12:50/ 13:35/13:45 19:00/19:20/ 20:10/20:20 06:20/06:00/*/07:15 17:35/17:15/*/18:30 06:00/06:20/*/07:15 16:00/16:20/ 17:10/17:20 19:20/19:00/*/20:15 Dep. 10:50/11:10/13:15

Summer 2009

GEttinG aRound

spoRt Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 20:30. A Tarantela J-1, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. 33 24 60/ 33 24 59, tarantela@st.t-com.hr, www.tarantela.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com ...Ferries and boats From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Split (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 From Vela luka (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Ploče (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Drvenik (Jadrolinija ferry) Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 From Makarska (Jadrolinija ferry) Days (June 01 - July 02&Sept 01 - 30) 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 05:15 06:15 07:45 09:00 10:30 (July 03-Aug 31) 11:15 12:45 14:15 14:30 (July 03-Aug 31) 16:45 18:00 19:15 21:00 23:59

Destination SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač) SUPETAR (Brač)

Dep. 10:15 17:30

Destination VELA LUKA(Korčula) VELA LUKA(Korčula)

Dep. 09:30 13:45 20:45

Destination UBLI(Lastovo) UBLI(Lastovo) UBLI(Lastovo)

Dep. 05:00(July 04-Aug 31) 07:30 10:15 12:30 15:00 17:30 20:00

Destination TRPANJ TRPANJ TRPANJ TRPANJ TRPANJ TRPANJ TRPANJ

Dep. Destination 05:45 (July 17-Aug 23) SUĆURAJ 07:30 SUĆURAJ 09:00 SUĆURAJ 10:30 SUĆURAJ 12:00 SUĆURAJ 13:45 SUĆURAJ 15:45 SUĆURAJ 17:15 SUĆURAJ 19:00 SUĆURAJ 20:30 SUĆURAJ 22:30* SUĆURAJ *till July 2 & from Aug 31 23:00 **till July 2 & from Aug 31 22:15

To Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 To Split Days 1234567 1234567 To Vela luka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 To Ploče Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 To Drvenik Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 05:00 06:30 07:45 09:00 10:30 11:45 (July 03-Aug 31) 12:30 14:00 15:30 16:30 (July 03-Aug 31) 18:00 19:30 20:30 22:45 Dep. 06:15 13:45 Dep. 04:30 11:30 17:30 Dep. 06:15 09:00 11:15 13:30 16:30 18:45 21:00 (July 03-Aug 30) Dep. 05:00 (July 17-Aug 23) 06:30 08:15 09:45 11:15 13:00 15:00 16:30 18:00 19:45 21:30**

To Makarska Dep. 09:00 12:30 17:00 20:00

Destination SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) SUMARTIN(Brač) *Sun & holidays 08:00

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 06:00* 11:00 15:00 18:30

www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

The Mrduja Regatta Held on the first weekend of October (03-04) it is one the oldest regattas in Europe, the island of Mrduja is the turning spot or the assisting finish of the 22 mile route Split–Mrduja–Split. Split serves as the gateway to a landscape of staggering beauty, with rugged mountain chains characterizing the hinterland and offshore islands rich in unspoilt scenery. There is a wide range of outdoor pursuits to enjoy, and adventure sports are taking off in a big way. Loomin g above the resor t town of Makarska, the B i o k o vo r a n g e offers Dalmatia‘s most challenging hiking on its steep sea-facing slopes, and mountain-biking opportunities on its landward side. There‘s also plenty in the way of well-mapped biking trails on the islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis. The Cetina river, which passes through a dramatic sequence of gorges before emptying into the Adriatic Sea at Omiš, offers most in the way of adventure sports. Activity centres at Radmanove Mlinice and Trilj organize an exhilarating variety of rafting, kayaking, canyoning and biking excursions. The mountainous topography of islands Brač and Vis provide stunning locations for paragliding. Cavers can investigate prehistoric remains at the Dragon‘s Cave (Zmajeva spilja) and Spiljski oltari, both on Brač. Croatia‘s most favourable breezes for windsurfing can be found off the island resort of Bol, on the southern coast of Brač.

Adventure sports Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel.

54 06 42/ 091 501 29 13, 091 526 38 13, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Rafting and canyoning on the River Cetina, sea kayaking around Hvar. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel. 45 95 45/ 091 313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, info@akvatorij.hr, www. akvatorij.hr. Scuba diving.QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel. 71 72 39, www.alternatura.hr. Paragliding. Avanturist Club Hotel Sveti Mihovil, Trilj, tel. 83 17 90/ 098 65 78 29, www.svmihovil.com. Kayaking and canyoning on the Cetina, mountain biking, horse riding. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Biokovo active holidays Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 7b, Makarska, tel. 67 96 55/ 098 22 58 52, biokovo@ biokovo.net, www.biokovo.net. Guided hikes and mountain biking on the Biokovo massif, canyoning and kayaking on the River Cetina, sea kayaking near Brela. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Investigator tours D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. 32 16 98/ 098 25 04 85, 098 169 77 49, info@ investigator.hr, www.investigator.hr. Rafting, canyoning, mountain biking, free climbing and paintball. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. 86 22 38/ 098 81 36 80, info@radmanove-mlinice.hr, www. radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and canyoning. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. 091 529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus.hr. Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.

split.inyourpocket.com

Picigin Among the numerous beaches around the city, there is one, final name that sums up a true beach experience in Split: Bačvice. The city’s main public beach is an integral part of the lives of the people of Split, and understandably so. Just minutes from the city center, Bačvice is a tree-lined beach complete with bars, restaurants and cafés and marked by the blue flag that is so often spotted around Croatia, signifying that the water and environment surrounding the beach meet stringent international quality standards. But more than the natural aspects of the beach, Bačvice is beloved because of the large place it holds in the overall fabric of the city’s life. It is easy to imagine the various parts of the drama of a Split resident’s life taking place on this small strip of beach: clumsy baby steps on the sand, learning to swim for the first time, romantic walks along the beach and, most importantly to some, games of the ubiquitous picigin played with groups of rowdy friends. It is perhaps picigin, a sport that was invented right in the waters of Bačvice that is the perfect illustration of the attitude and overall feeling that exists at this special beach. The sport is played by small groups of people who try, by only using single touches from their their hands, to keep a specially-made rubber ball aloft and out of the water for as long as possible. The main characteristic of the sport is that there are no opposing teams, no points, no winners and no losers. It is played for the sheer pleasure of being with one’s friends while running and diving through the shallow waters of Split’s most beloved beach.

Summer 2009

spoRt Hall of fame

Ever since the Kaliterna brothers returned from Prague University to form the Hajduk soccer team in 1911, sport has played a crucial role in Split’s identity. Hajduk has been the focus of city-wide obsession for almost a century, although it is the local basketball team (winning back-toback European trophies in 1989-1991) that has made a more profound international mark. Split has produced its fair share of individual champions, too. High-jumping phenomenon Blanka Vlašić is the current golden girl of Croatian athletics, while four-times Wimbledon finalist Goran Ivanišević remains a living symbol of the city in which he was born. Perhaps the most famous of all of Split’s sports stars is Goran Ivanišević. Born in Split in 1971, Ivanišević is perhaps best known for being the only man in Wimbledon history to win the championship as a wild card, as well as his exceedingly powerful serve, which is still regarded as one of the best in the history of the game. Blanka Vlašič did many a Croatian proud when she won Croatia its first gold medal in the World Championship in Athletics in Osaka in 2007. Vlašič is currently co-owner, with Bulgarian Lyudmila Andonova, of the record for the second-best high jump in history at 2.07m. Fabjan Kaliterna helped found Split’s Hajduk football club in 1911 and was a cornerstone of Split’s sports community as he was an essential part in the creation of many sports clubs and teams around the city. Brother of Fabijan, Luka Kaliterna was a self-trained goalkeeper who created his own innovative method of playing goal. His techniques are still in use today and are the base for training new players. He went on to become one of Hajduk’s most famous and respected coaches. Bernard Vukas was a Hajduk Split player with so many achievements and accolades to his credit that one doesn’t know where to begin. He was born in Zagreb and joined the Hajduk team in 1947. During the course of his Hajduk career, he scored 300 goals and helped the team win the Yugoslavian Championship in 1950, 1952 and 1950. Vukas was the captain of the national team and represented Yugoslavia 69 times in international play, racking up 20 goals in the process. In 1955, he donned the UEFA’s colors to play in their Continent versus Great Britain game; in this game, Vukas scored a hat-trick as the Continental team defeated Britain four goals to one. Frane Matošić is undoubtedly one of the best players to ever don the blue and white for Hajduk Split. He played in 739 games and scored a mind-boggling 729 goals, making his scoring record seem insurmountable. To add to his mystique, Matošić started his career with Hajduk when he was just seventeen years old. As captain of Hajduk, he commanded respect from teammates and opponents alike and, for his scoring prowess and the silver medal he helped secure in the 1948 London Olympics, Matošić was the recipient of a lifetime achievement award from the city of Split and the Croatian Olympic Committee. Vladimir Beara was another legendary Hajduk and Crvena zvezda goalkeeper whose goalkeeping prowess made his teams winners time and time again. Between 1950 and 1960, he was on seven championship teams. In his career, he represented Yugoslavia in fifty-nine games and three world championships.

Split In Your Pocket

sHoppinG Toni Kukoč Starting his career with Split’s all-conquering Jugoplastika team in the 1980s, Kukoč moved to Treviso in Italy before becoming a member of an all-star Chicago Bulls outfit that won the NBA title three times in a row during the late 1990s. Kukoč was a key player in Croatia’s silver medalwinning team at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Dino Rađa was another member of the golden Jugoplastika generation who moved west, leading Virtus Roma to European success before spending three seasons with the Boston Celtics. He is currently president of KK Split. Branko Radović, widely known as the “father of Split basketball,” he helped discover and shape new players that reversed Split’s basketball fortunes, turning them into one of the best teams in Yugoslavia. His hard work culminated in Split’s victory at the 1971 Yugoslavian championships. Radović also represented Yugoslavia 35 times in international competition, including two European championships. One of Branko Radović’s greatest discoveries was Rato Tvrdić who captained the Split Jugoplastika team of the Sixties and Seventies, winning two Yugoslavian championships and three Yugoslavian cups in the process. However, his winning ways weren’t limited only to Yugoslavia: he won gold in the 1970 World Championship in Ljubljana; two silvers in the Montevideo and Puerto Rico World Championships in 1967 and 1974, respectively; two golds in European championships; a gold in the Mediterranean Games and a Balkan Championship. Yet another Split basketball great was Petar Skansi, who represented Yugoslavia in international play for five years. His shining moment came at the World Championship in Ljubljana when he was named one of the top five players in the world. Đurđica Bjedov, a swimmer for Split’s Mornar club, shocked the city when she won two Olympic medals: a gold in the 100m breaststroke and a silver in the 200m breaststroke. Miro Mihovilović was a legendary goalkeeper for the Jadran water polo club in Split. He represented Yugoslavia 22 times in international matches and in 1934, in the European Championship, was declared the best goalkeeper in Europe; at the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin, he was hailed as the best water polo goalkeeper in the world. Duje Bonačić, Mate Trojanović, Petar Šegvić, Velimir Valenta were rowers from the Gusar rowing club who went on to win gold in the 1952 Helsinki Olympics in the coxless fours event. Deni Lušić was a Split native and water polo sensation who went on to represent Yugoslavia in 276 international games and Croatia in 30 games, including winning gold for Yugoslavia in the 1984 and 1988 Olympic games in Los Angeles and Seoul. He was also one of the top club players in Europe during the duration of his career.

Vegeta - Food Seasoning This is basically a food seasoning. It is made from vegetables, spices and salt and therefore has the added bonus of being vegetarian – oh you healthy beast! And don’t worry; MSG is in everything these days anyway, as it is in this Croatian stuff and indeed most of Central Europe. Remember how we raved about the standard of the food in this country? Well, now you have joined us in this appreciation we can reveal the secret to you – and that secret is Vegeta. When you find that your pasta dish is unreasonably rich and salty – well then you know that the commis chef is in need of extra training for his Vegeta shake.

Souvenirs Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. 34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A O la la! H-1, Plinarska 21, tel. 39 49 40/ 098 924 11 45, www.olala-split.com. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Putnik Art I-2, Rodrigina 1, tel. 49 05 44/ 091 525 03 87, putnikart@yahoo.fr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Unique Split J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. 49 09 30, croker@croker.hr, www.croker.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A

Kravata - Necktie Antiques Antique‘s & Art‘s J-2, Bulićeva 4, tel. 098 917 63 68. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. N

Art Galleries Galerija Freska H-1, Plinarska 49, tel. 39 49 18, imandaria@yahoo.com, www.galerija-freska.com. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Galerija Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. 34 51 31/ 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Delicatessen

For any of you that are thinking about finding the slightest hint of irony in the idea that an item of clothing that almost single-handedly represents an uptight, constricted lifestyle should come from passionate Mediterranean climes, remember one thing – the Croats are kings and queens of fashion! ‘Twas way back in 1635, amongst the large numbers of soldiers rolling into Paris to fight against the nasty protestants in The Thirty Years War were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal regions. They wore coloured scarves around their necks, which the French military thought a wonderful idea. They were so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills that were the norm in Gaul. Hence the new fashion was taken up with enthusiasm and rapidly spread to the rest of Europe – the word for the original wearers: Hrvat transforming on the non-Slavic tongue to Cravat. For those of you that do not want to carry around a painful reminder of that which awaits at the end of your holidays, they make them in nice bright styles also.

Deliiicije Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. 32 31 49, pitanja@deliiicije.com, www.deliiicije. com. Q A Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Izvorno Šubićeva 6, tel. 35 50 41, info@izvorno.hr, www.izvorno.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. 34 61 38, www.kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. 34 27 19, info@ uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. 34 80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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Summer 2009

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Banks & Exchanges

English books & newspapers

Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E-3/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel. 43 41 00, www.hypo-aple-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,

Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. 34 80 30, split@ algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30,

Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. 55 98 10/ 060 20 20 20, kc-split@poba.hr, www.poba.hr. QOpen

International book shop I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 21, tel. 34 40 11. QOpen 08:00

Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. N

08:00 - 16:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. 42 10 07/ 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. 30 42 22/ 0800 33 32 23, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel. 35 23 00/ 35 22 22, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

Hospital Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. 55 71 11. Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1, tel. 55 61 11.

24-hour pharmacies Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske županije Dobri

D-2, Gundulićeva 52, tel. 34 80 74, ljekarnasplit@ ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. A

Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske županije Lučac

E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. 53 31 88, ljekarnasplit@ ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

Dry cleaners & Laundries Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. 31 58 88, www.lifejacketadventures.com. Self service: 25kn - laundering, 20kn - drying and 5kn - cleaning powder. 75kn per machine for leaving your clothes for them to do the job for you (laundring, drying but not ironing). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Real estate Arcadia J-2/K-2, Rokova 2, tel. 48 22 32/ 091 549 21 58, arcadia.nekretnine@st.t-com.hr, www.arcadiacro. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel. 53 68 23/ 099 200 01 15, info@benelliestates.com, www. benelliestates.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Consiliator J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10, tel. 36 02 60/ 091 198 03 03, consiliator@consiliator.hr, www.consiliator. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. 34 31 05, 36 21 40/ 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17 69, trgostan@ trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign representations Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. 35 84

88/ 091 358 48 88, fax 35 87 99, nenad.muskatelo1@ st.t-com.hr. Must make an announcement before you come.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel./fax 34

52 75, tel. 091 339 12 12, milan.senjanovic@vip.hr, www. finland.hr. Arrange a meeting over the phone. Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. 40 93 47, fax 48 64 01, d.konsul@honorarkonsulsplit.hr, www.zagreb. diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Chile (Consulate) E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2, Boktuljin put bb, tel. 35 24 01, fax 35 24 07. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 81 55/ 34 45 77, fax 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@esteri.it, www.consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open daily 09:00-12:00,Thr 09:00-12:00 and 15:30-17:30, Sat and Sun cls. Sweden (Consulate) K-1/K-2, Držićeva 8, tel. 33 82 34, fax 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands (Consulate) D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 1, tel./fax 31 23 99, silvanakondic@net.hr, www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For rest of the week make arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 60 07, fax 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@ st.t-com.hr, www.britishembassy.gov.uk/croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 15:30, Tue 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lunch break daily from 13:00-14:00 except Fri.

Business connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber H-3, Ante Trumbića 4, tel. 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www. hgk.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Vets

Split - Dalmatia County Chamber of trades and crafts Ruđera Boškovića 28-30, tel. 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.

Veterinarska stanica Filipović E-2, Kukuljevićeva 1,

tel. 56 74 03/ 098 32 01 20, fax 56 76 67, veterina@ inet.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Veterinarska stanica Split E-2, Šibenska 9, tel. 56 98 04, 56 97 89/ 099 216 99 61, fax 54 32 77, veterinarska.stanica.split@st.t-com.hr, w w w. veterinarskastanica-split.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Closed Sat, Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

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Summer 2009

split dalmatia county

split dalmatia county Lovorka Magaš

Castles of Split Dalmatia County Visitors to the Split region shouldn’t just restrict themselves to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles. Given the region’s turbulent history – including centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians – it’s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape. One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela” (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or

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the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored. Trogir’s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town’s lovely architecture. If you go 21 km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked. Ask at the town’s tourist office first and they’ll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela’s tower keep there’s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It’s believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt. Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500 meters above the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail, which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure to go straight (don’t turn right) when you reach the fork in the road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long

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struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and emhrasures are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a major tourist center. It’s a shame that most visitors never venture beyond the beach. From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina River 18 km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it’s still worth checking out Zadvarje’s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat, the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon. Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38 km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might develop. Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer cliffs tower 150 meters above the Blue Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably first used for defensive purposes by the Romans. Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950. From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn’t until 1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish

Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski. On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre,

accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 – 20 minutes. There’s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle. Only 10 km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak above the village. First mentioned in written records from the 12th century, it’s hard to imagine how it could have been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope. About 80 km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina. It’s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a hill above the village. It’s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707 meters. The Nelipčić family built Čačvina in 1371. The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina’s remoteness is one of its charms. The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is Sinj, which is only 20 km northwest of Čačvina or 34 km north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During the century before and for several centuries after the birth

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Summer 2009

split dalmatia county of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area. Sinj’s fortifications are first found in written records in about the year 950. It’s believed the exsiting fortress was built in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna known as the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many restaurants. About 15 km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30 km long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10 km you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to Satrić. After 5.3 km you will see a pink house on the right and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot. Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging the sources for the castle’s water wells, thereby cutting off the defendents’ water supply, were they able to capture it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika. Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go from the town church 1.5 km up the road towards Maovica and Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a 20 – 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle. The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995.The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 – 30 minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior. For details please see the article about Brač activities in this issue of In Your Pocket.

Split In Your Pocket

split dalmatia county

Islands Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main produ ct o f th e island, fish. The island‘s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day‘s catch, which is then prepared for the evening‘s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing,

and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island‘s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there‘s something for everyone.

Brač What to do on the island of Brač in One Day, Three days or One Week Brač, the Croatian Adriatic‘s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest. If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia‘s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It‘s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the

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Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It‘s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you‘d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač‘s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip‘s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules. Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what‘s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač‘s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don‘t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle‘s suspension. Both trails are well

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marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca‘s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It‘s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. If you are going to be on Brač for a week there‘s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It‘s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer‘s dream.

There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They‘re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn‘t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Restaurants Villa Gumonca, Mirca-Supetar, tel. 63 02 37 / 095 905 42 92. Konoba Kopačina, Donji Humac bb, tel. 64 77 07. Agritourisam Rojen, Uvala Luke- Pučišća, tel. 098 867292.

Summer 2009

split dalmatia county Hvar

split dalmatia county Lovorka Magaš

You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad (Jadrolinija Stari Grad, tel. 76 50 48) or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you‘re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar (Jadrolinija Hvar, tel. 74 11 32). If you‘re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo i Duga. A m o n gs t t h e s e i s l a n d s , t h e most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected. The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here. The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns. Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it‘s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you‘ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen‘s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by domestic masters Karlić i Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for its craftesmanship of unique lace hewn from agave fibres. Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and it falls under one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to avoid with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

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Restaurants Macondo, Groda bb, Hvar, tel. 74 28 50. Konoba Menego, Groda bb, Hvar, tel. 74 20 36. Vidikovac Levanda, Velo Grablje bb, tel. 021784 52 49. Luna, Petra Hektorovića 1, Hvar, tel. 74 14 00.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today‘s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan). Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries. The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you‘ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you‘ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they‘re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C.

Split beaches Bačvice: just east of the Riva. Usually very busy. Žnjan: in the southeast, it’s a long beach that’s only used for swimming and sunning. Kaštelet and Kašuni: both of these are on the Marjan peninsula and are especially beautiful and wild. South to Omiš: there are beaches in every village on this stretch of the coast and just off the road. These are highly recommended options for your swimming, especially if you don’t like having a lot of humans all over the place. The road trip can be frustrating however for its great traffic. North: easily to travel to these roadside beaches via car, they’re all over the place and make for great swimming.

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Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‚‘Little Venice‘‘ due to its small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worthy a look in as is fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of live stone) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You‘ll come across a gorgeous view of islands Šćedro, Korčula and half-island Pelješac before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you‘d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you‘ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali‘ (Small Blue), located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches.The island‘s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).

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Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and well preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side. The island‘s mountains aren‘t quite high, however, with their coastal mounts and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker‘s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising (contact Hvar Adventure, tel. 71 78 13), as too for diving (Marinesa, tel. 74 17 92 or Viking, tel. 74 25 29). Hvar along with the island Vis, are the hub of winery in these areas, whose history stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of autochthonous sorts of wines - ‘Bogdanuša‘ and ‘Drenkuša‘ which can never be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali‘ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac‘ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Summer 2009

split dalmatia county

56 Vis

The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years of enclosure and forbidden zones for foreigners in the Communist Yugoslavia, the island‘s nature has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by watery waves of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it‘s an excellent opportunity to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency (tel. 71 10 32). The two largest areas on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. For all further information related to the island of Vis, contact Vis Tourist Board tel: 71 70 17 tzg-visa@st.t-com.hr or Komiža Tourist Board tel. 71 34 55 tzg-komize@st.t-com.hr. Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac and Zaglav. Also, don‘t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito‘s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

split dalmatia county

Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn‘t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

It‘s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let‘s not forget the island‘s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija‘ (Our Lady‘s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorai and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Ciprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the half-island of Prirovo and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža, is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below. The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form.

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Restaurants Restoran Pojoda, Don Cvijetka Marasovića 8, (meaning a calm, safe port in the island‘s dialect) tel. 71 15 75, Villa Kaliopa, V.Nazora 32, tel. 71 17 55 in the town of Vis. Doručak kod Tihane, Obala sv. Jurja bb, tel. 71 84 72 translates as ‘Breakfast at Tihana‘s‘, a charming restaurant on the Vis water front. Pizza Karijola, Šetalište vički boj 4, tel. 71 14 33 woodfire oven pizza. Jastožera, Gundulićeva 6, tel. 71 38 59 in Komiža, where you can select your lobster fresh from it‘s swimming tank which is located adjacent to the terrace of the tavern. Konoba pol murvom, tel. 71 51 17 which is located in the woman‘s head (Žena Glava) in inner Vis. Konoba Stončica, Uvala Stončica 1, tel. 71 16 69 located in the bay of the same name and Konoba Bako, Gundulićeva 1, Komiža, tel. 71 37 42.

Surroundings Makarska Riviera A stay in the Riviera offers all of the things you can find on any normal Croatian holiday (lovely nature, crystal clear water, etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might make it particularly attractive for some visitors. The first of these things might be the Riviera‘s namesake, the city of Makarska. The main highlight of this small coastal city might well be its promenade, the palm-lined Marineta street, where cafés, bars and shops keep watch over the nearby harbour. The city‘s horizon is dominated by nearby Biokovo, a must-see for visitors to Makarska. At 1762 metres, Biokovo is the highest mountain in Dalmatia and is marked with over thirty hiking trails of varying difficulty and abounds with caves, the remains of ancient villages, all sorts of wildlife scampering about and even a botanical garden, making it an absolute haven for hiking enthusiasts. From the top of the mountain on a clear day, you can see every island in Dalmatia stretching out beneath you.If that‘s not enough to satiate your travel hunger, the rest of the Riviera is dotted with a number of tiny, quiet towns that are numerous enough to avoid becoming bogged down by the summer tourist explosion. Towns such as Baška voda, Podgora and Gradac could be ideal stopping points on a meandering trip through the Riviera, with plenty of time taken to soak up the sun, laze on beautiful beaches and get to know a bit about life in each place along the way.

Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until finally emptying into the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge and near the small Dalmatian city of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque city that is the center of what has become known as „the Omiš Riviera.“ However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called „arrows,“ so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river.

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While it‘s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there‘s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the city make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the city against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. And when you‘re finished exploring the natural beauty of the city and its history, the city‘s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity‘s early history. According to the Bible, Paul‘s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the city‘s role as crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the city the title of „Croatia‘s Pompeii.“ U ntil re centl y, S olin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the city. Today, d u e to exc ava ti o n s exposing the remains of the former Roman ci t y located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the city a much-needed economic b oost. I n tu rn, th ey receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two th ousand years old. I n re sp on s e to th i s increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you‘re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

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stREEt REGistER

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor city just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian city that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir‘s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making the city a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Lovorka Magaš

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Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city‘s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke‘s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir‘s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city‘s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia‘s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

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A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2, H-2 Babina C-3, H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2 Ban Berislavićeva C-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2, J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2, K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1 Bjelovarska E-2

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Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2, K-1 Borčićeva C-3, H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3, H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2, J-1 Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3

Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3, H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2

Franje Račkog D-2, K-1 Gajeva C-2, H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3, K-2 Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1 Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2, H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3 Hvarska K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1

Summer 2009

stREEt REGistER Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3 Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2 Kačićeva I-1 Kamenita C-2 Kamenita H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3 Klarina K-3 Kliška D-2 Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mislava K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3 Kneza Višeslava K-2 Kninska D-2 Kninska I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1 Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1, K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2, J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3 Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2, F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova

Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3, H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2, H-1 Matošića D-2, I-2 Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2 Mišina F-2 Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3, K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3, I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1 Nelipćeva D-3, I-2 Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3, I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3, K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3 Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3, H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2, H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2, H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3, K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1

stREEt REGistER Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2, I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2, H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3, J-3 Radunica D-3, J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3, H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3, H-2 Severova D-3, J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2, J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2, J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3, H-3 Spinčićeva E-3 Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3, J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1 Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2, I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3

Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3, H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3, H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3, J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1 Washingtonova D-2, K-1 Zadarska G-1, I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3 Zoranićeva D-2, I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3

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Summer 2009