Split In Your Pocket No5 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SPLIT Summer 2012

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

Ivan Meštrović

Marking 50 years since the passing of one of the world’s greatest sculptors

Makarska riviera

Discover its gorgeous beaches and the unspoilt backdrop of the Biokovo Mountain

Wet n wild

Scuba dive deep and the rewards will reap

N°5 - complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Split

Land ahoy!

The Basics 7 Whither toilets?

Magnificent Meštrović

One of the worlds greatest sculptors

Culture & Events

This symmetric underwater Asteroidean is just one of the attractions that can be seen beneath the Adriatic Sea. For more information on scuba diving, read our section on page 46

Cafés

Festival fun and music mania

Where to stay Your home away from home

Restaurants

Feast your senses

29 Get into full chill mode

Nightlife

Step out in Split style

Sightseeing

Galleries, churches, Roman remains...

Mail & Phones

Go on… open your heart

Getting around 40 Scoot around the city in style

Diving in the Adriatic

This issues special feature

Shopping

Perfect gifts and souvenirs

Business Directory

Grown up important stuff

Makarska Riviera

Day trips galore

Split Dalmatia County

This issue’s special feature

Maps & Index

The photo presents the Split Tribal Fest, a fusion of various belly dance forms including contemporary, Latin, ballet and theatrical dance. Want more! Go to page 13

Split In Your Pocket

Index 74 Street index 75 City centre map 77 City map 78 Country map 80 split.inyourpocket.com

Foreword For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in history and culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on the islands of Brač and Hvar. Even Split’s own citizens would drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season, leaving the city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although day-trippers were frequently bussed into town to drool over the city’s architectural riches, few locals ever considered that Split really qualified as a destination in itself. The last few years have seen a huge change in Split’s fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities, and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who have always considered their town to be one of the most inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn’t have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads it’s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a vivacious, dressedto-thrill cast of locals for whom the art of having a good night out is a lifelong calling. Our IYP summer bonanza brings you the latest in a resurgence of newly opened groovy restaurants, wine bars, cafes and clubs to chill and thrill if you have the will. We feature the Makarska Riviera in all its glory with some of the best smooth white pebbled and sandy beaches backed by pine and olive woods. For those seeking adventure do not miss our exclusive on diving with a list of unsurpassed sites and types of dives beneath the sea. If you prefer the safety of land, take a peek at our culture section as this year is a dedication to one of the world’s greatest ever sculptors, local born genius Ivan Meštrović. With a jam packed summer calendar on hand, we wish you the merriest of travels!

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It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with more on the way) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can now be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Marko Sirovina, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Adriatic photo service, Split In Your Pocket team, TZ Split Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Accounting management: Mi-ni d.o.o

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2012. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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SPAREN LOHNT SICH. KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH. IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE. RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.

www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr • info telefon 0800 14 14 • facebook.com/hypobankahrvatska

arriving in split

Tourist information Tourist Information Centre J-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, w w w. visitsplit.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 00, touristinfo@ visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. QOpen 07:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00 32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, info@dalmatia.hr, www. dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

By boat Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don‘t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. There‘s a supermarket that‘s open from 06:30 20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars that are open according to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you‘ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

By bus Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,

Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/ (+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 06:00 - 22:00.The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 21:30. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you‘d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on

Split In Your Pocket

international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157 kunas for toll fees (Prices are expected to rise by 15% as of 1 June). When the signs let you know you‘re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that‘s that! From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

By plane Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)

Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr, www.split-airport.hr. Split‘s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant and Café Ikar operates from 05:00 - 23:00 and has an excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men‘s and women‘s toilets. Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Croatia Airlines airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn‘t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 16kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia Airlines buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you just next to the old town for 30kn.

By train Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet. hr. The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station‘s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

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Basics Customs

Climate

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. (+385-1) 459 13 33, www.mfin.hr.

Electricity

Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm 100

50 25

-10

The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

-20

Health & Safety

Roads

The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one‘s belongings at all times, nevertheless. Policija (The Police tel. no.192) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

Croatian lawmakers can‘t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you‘re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we‘ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets There are several spots that are labeled as having a public toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to stand and do their business will only have to pay 2kn. So much for gender equality.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Split County (April 2011): 455,242 Split (April 2011): 178,192 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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M A M

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you‘re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff‘s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn‘t it?

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Summer 2012

magnificent meštrović Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in Slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. There, his father Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a labourer on the new railway. The family moved back to their home village of Otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the young Ivan was tiny. Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic Sea. The terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their environment. The tough conditions contrast with an austere but starkly beautiful culture. The rhythms of life are expressed in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea. The young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads of the villagers and the Bible stories his mother recited by heart. He taught himself to read and write by comparing those recited stories with the pages of his father’s Bible. He tried to carve the characters from these tales in wood and stone. Woman by the Sea, marble, 1926 Every country has its national treasures: people or institutions that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been otherwise. One of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. In his work you can clearly see the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues, very much larger than life. Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character. Stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin in Split and the most committed atheist can’t help being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky Dalmatian hinterland.

“Job”, bronze, 1946

Split In Your Pocket

Meštrović Atelier, D.Fabijanić At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by a number of people who raised the money necessary to send him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named Pavle Bilinić in Split. Split still today is a living museum with the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic, renaissance, baroque and later architectures. It’s easy to imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on to design some equally splendid buildings himself. Bilinić and his wife Gina felt their charge showed exceptional promise and succeeded in bringing his talent to the attention of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who, among others, undertook to financially support Meštrović while he studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.

The central hall at the Meštrović Gallery

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magnificentmeštrović meštrović magnificent

The Meštrović Gallery, view from the terrace Before that could begin, however, a new challenge awaited the young sculptor: learning the German language. It’s important to remember at this point that Meštrović had never had any formal schooling.

(Michigan Ave), Chicago. He was the first living artist to have a solo exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (1915) and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1947).

His first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic currents of the time. It was here that he met his first wife Ruža. Heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful fountain “The Source of Life” which today stands in front of the National Theatre in Zagreb, enabled the couple to spend time in Austria, France, Italy, Serbia, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the United States.

Meštrović left Croatia during the Second World War after his imprisonment by the pro-Nazi wartime regime. After the Second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at Syracuse University, New York State, and in 1955 moved to Notre Dame University, South Bend, Indiana, where he died in 1962. He was buried in his parents’ village of Otavice, Croatia.

Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. In 1903 came the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna Secession group. In 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt won the first prize for painting. His circle of friends comprised the most renowned artists of the day. He created works which still stand today in countries throughout Europe and beyond. Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the Spearman and the Bowman (or the “Indians”) in Grant Park The Source of Life, 1905, fountain in front of Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the American Academy of Arts and Letters and the American Institute of Architects, and an honorary member of The Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. He became an American citizen in 1954. His legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments and public buildings all over the world.

The Church of the Holy Redeemer, Z. Alajbeg

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Ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in Split and Zagreb and chapels in Split and Otavice. These are now Ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public. The year 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the death of this remarkable man. So make a date to see some of his works.

Summer 2012

Culture & Events

Ethno Ambient Salona, Lo cor de la plana Marseille

Rock & Pop Concerts

12.07 Thursday

Massimo Savić

15.06 Friday

Dječaci

D-3, Bačvice Summer Cinema, Put firula 2. Three act sensation that test the waters of hip hop, rap and spruces of other musical styles in short snippets. Their road to fame started in 2003 with the underground classic Još trčimo ulice to the recent Dalmacijo and Lovrinac. Expect a jovial, electric and funky night! Q Concert starts at 20:00.

03.07 Tuesday

The Cult feat. Gun

C-2, Spaladium Arena, Zrinsko-frankopanska 211. British rock icons ‘The Cult‘ will release their new album, ‘Choice of Weapon‘ in May and follow it up with a tour. Since the 80s the band has continued to produce their hard rock quintessential sound whilst dipping into some punk/mystic/ melodic elements. Hear Fire Woman, Sun King, Lil Devil, She Sells Sanctuary and other classic hits. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 190 - 240kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

C-3, Sustipan, w w w.ritamprodukcija.com. One of Croatia‘s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time as he recently received 4 awards at Porin. Many declare him to be Croatia‘s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice.

13.07 Friday

Josipa Lisac

C-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Emotive, charismatic, eccentric and yet somewhat intrinsic best describe Lisac‘s stage persona and songs. We are talking about an artist who has been on the scene for four decades and is highly respected for her work with mixes of pop, rock, and jazz to Bosnian Sevdah.

17.07 Tuesday

Guns N‘ Roses

C-2, Spaladium Arena, Zrinsko-frankopanska 211. The Gods of glam/heavy rock still have their ‘Appetite for Destruction‘ with a tour that is sending rock waves throughout the old continent. Front man Axl Rose still leads the band and legions of fans get their chance to hear hits like Paradise City, Sweet Child O Mine, Welcome to the Jungle and others. The Gunners are back - limited entry for 10,000 fans. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 290 - 500kn.

Club Nights 21.06 Thursday

Freemasons

Massimo Savić

Split In Your Pocket

D-3, Imperium, Gat svetog Duje. Bri tish house attraction the Freemasons are a dynamic duo that have become accustomed to bringing the house down with their hit singles Love on my Mind, Watchin and D éjà vu. Remixes with Beyonce, Jamiroquai, Fatboy Slim and others prove that there finger tapping and turntable skills sizzle.

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Culture & Events Music to move your soul 21.06 Tuesday

www.splitbluesfestival.com. Split becomes a hit! Indeed the first day of summer sees the city send musical waves across the Adriatic with a 24 hour chock a block programme. Ten stages, ten genres of music and over 500 participants. Locations throughout the city will be set up so choose from ethno, jazz, rock, urban, and others. The Split Blues Festival at the Prokurative features six groups both local and abroad.

Exhibitions

Split Film Festival

03.05 Thursday - 05.07 Thursday

Iški lopižar - Predrag Petrović

J-3, Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 23 years and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass. Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather and baking it on an open fire. Its preparations last for days. And who could ever forget the old pottery wheel which has been long abandoned in other places?

14.07 Saturday - 15.08 Wednesday

Sense and sensibility - Design business forum

Loggia Gallery, Hvar. Interested in design? Product design that is, then look at some of the best developed designs from Croatia. About 40 chosen items by 14 Croatian designer brands are on display. Whilst there, why not meet and mingle with some of the leaders of the industry from this side of Europe.

Special events

Tribal Fest, Anasma

02.06 Saturday - 09.06 Saturday

Split Mediterranean Film Festival

Bačvice Summer Cinema; Zlatna vrata Kinoteka; Villa Rosina, www.fmfs.hr. Eight days, hundreds of films, thousands of visitors! See films from the Mediterranean region come alive with a matinee and beach evening programme that has people sitting on beach towels as tickets are snapped up quick smart. Exhibitions and parties under the night sky are this year‘s added surprise.

15.06 Friday - 24.08 Fiday

Split Rock Fest 2012

E-3 Legends Bar, Uvala Bačvice. It’s all ‘hard n heavy’ with over 20 rock, alternative rock, punk, garage, jazz and blues bands from this side of Europe. Spread over three months this is a treat for all fans of such genres with hot prizes to be won.

09.08 Thursday - 30.08 Thursday

Franke James - An exhibition

D/E-2, MKC Gallery, Savska bb, www.mkcsplit.hr. A collision of art and environment drenched with apolitical issues that have inspired Franke James to act or better say, react. This Canadian artist combines science, art, film, photography and storytelling to raise environmental awareness through visual essays. See how James brings the word ‘global‘ to our ‘local‘ art scene, in her own original way.

August - September The tradition of giving ship models as vow gifts

K-2, Croatian Maritime Museum, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www.hpms.hr. Did you know that from the 19th century Croatian seamen used ship models as vow gifts and would place them in churches hoping for safety and health on their journeys? Recent research will give us an insight into the who, how, where and why of this phenomenon with preserved models on show.

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Ethno Ambient Salona

Summer 2012

Culture & Events 22.06 Friday - 24.06 Sunday

Echo Festival 2012

Buba Beach Bar, Makarska, www.echofestival.com. Live it up at this underground music festival over three days with the likes of Inxec, Droog, Cozzy D, Pariah, Koreless and many more DJs that will grace the two stages. If house and techno music gets your heart rate jumping, then why not let it pulsate amidst this beautiful beach location as the crystal waters might help you cool off!

24.06 Sunday

Raymonda

G-2, Cineplexx, City Centre One, Vukovarska 207, www. cineplexx.hr. Aficionados of ballet can revel in this classic by Marius Petipa as it brings to life some majestic choreography and within its three acts. Set in the time of the Crusades the plot is based on two lovers distanced by duty yet they find rejoice in their honesty and love. Cinestar streams it from the Bolshoie Theatre, Moscow.

26.06 Tuesday

The Fallen Woman (La Traviata)

Cinestar Split, Put brodarice 6, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. A three act opera by Giuseppe Verdi where the love between the courtesan Violetta Valery and Alfredo Germont is tampered with by outside forces. Do their hearts remain true? Hear “Sempre Libera” (Always free) and other Verdi classics live from Milan at CineStar. Q Starts at 20:00.

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Find out the who, when and where of the World Music Day Festival which covers enough genres that will have you clapping, tapping, hopping and bopping. Full details on page 11

More fun... 05.05 Saturday - 20.06 Wednesday Mario Javorčić, J-2 Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene b.b. 29 paintings. 01.06 Friday - 02.07 Monday Monday Daslav Petrović, A Story in the Stone, I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www. alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of sculptures made of stone. 02.06 Saturday - 01.07 Sunday Bojan Šumonja, J-2 Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb. An exhibition. 13.06 Wednesday - 23.06 Saturday Emanuel Vidović Ar t Association, J-2 Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.mgst.net. Exhibition 21.06 Thursday - 10.07 Tuesday Anton Cetin J-2 Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene b.b, www.mgst.net. 27.06 Wednesday - 09.07 Monday Ana Marija Botteri Peruzović, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Exhibition of paintings. 03.07 Tuesday - 23.07 Monday Dubravka Vojnović, The Sea is the Sky‘s Other Shore , I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www. alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of oil canvases. 12.07 Thursday - 15.09 Saturday Traditional clothing of Croats in Vojvodina - author Josip Forjan, Rental and workshops on national folk costumes, Zagreb J-3 Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. 14.07 Saturday- 14.08 Tuesday As part of the Split Summer Festival - works between 1990 and 2012 by the academic painter Velimir

Split In Your Pocket

Veličković (Paris) Kula Gallery & Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg braće Radića 7. 24.07 Tuesday - 20.08 Monday Damir Mandeta Vrdoljak, Perfect Dreams, I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliancefrancaise-split.com. Exhibition of small travelling boats. 08.08 Wednesday - 20.08 Monday Marche Region, Italy, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Group exhibition. 21.08 Tuesday - 16.09 Sunday Frano Missia, With Love, I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliance-francaise-split. com. Exhibition of acrylic paintings 03.09 Monday - 23.09 Sunday A retrospective by the academic painter Bogdan Borčić (Slovenia) Kula Gallery & Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg braće Radića 7. 05.09 Wednesday - 17.09 Monday Kaća Svedružić, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Exhibition of paintings 07.09 Friday - 30.9 Sunday Students of the Split Art School (Mentor Marko Amižić) Classic masterpiece replicas, I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliance-francaise-split. com. Exhibition of tempera works on wood. 03.10 Wednesday - 16.10 Tuesday Jasna Bogdanović, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, w w w.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. E xhibition of sculptures. 08.10 Monday - 25.10 Thursday Academic painter Antun Boris Švaljek, Kula Gallery & Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg braće Radića 7. An exhibition.

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Culture & Events

MAG Festival

29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday

The Split festival

I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr. Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music scene. Despite the glory days of the 70‘s and 80‘s long gone, the event has had some changes over the years but things are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names and draws the most attention.

19.07 Thursday - 21.07 Saturday

Ethnoambient Salona

Gradina, Solin, www.ethnoambient.net. The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Lo Cor de La Plana, S.A.N.S. and Kries.

25.05 - 29.06, Boris Bućan, Gorki Žuvela , Split Art Gallery -An exhibition organised as part of the ‘One on One‘ cycle

17.08 Friday - 20.08 Monday

Days of Diocletian

WestBam

The Emperor Diocletian returns and will we see his wrath once more. In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for four nights citizens dressed in costume wander along the city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with gladiator performances, singers and a street music festival. Dig and delve into the Roman feast by tasting delicacies made from natural local ingredients (honey, fruit, vegetables, shellfish, and spices) as prepared according to traditional old recipes.

30.07 Monday - 03.08 Friday

Split Tribal Fest - The Festival of Modern Oriental Dance

28.07 Saturday D-3, Bačvice beach. Check out Germany‘s DJ King who has done more for the techno/dance scene on home soil then most politicians in a lifetime. WestBam can crossover different styles and will whip up singles such as Hold me back, Celebration Generation, Bam Bam Bam and Sunshine as the beach at Bačvice becomes a dance hot spot.

Supertoon

Bol, Brač, inf o@super to onf estival.com, w w w. supertoonfestival.com. Hop onto the island of Brač and in particular the town of Bol for some animation action. The latest Croatian and world animations in film and music videos are up for awards with a competition programme organised.

23.08 Thursday - 26.08 Sunday

J-2, Peristil, www.splittribalfest.com. A grand dance spectacle with over 200 performers set to make Split hip! Tribal dance is a combo of oriental belly dance, flamenco, Indian kathak dance, hip hop, ballet, mar tial ar ts and contemporary dance. The glitter and glare are topped by rich costumes, crazed hairstyles and more. Did we mention that dance workshops will be held? Sign up ASAP!

Culture Centres Alliance Fraincaise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. (+38521) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com, www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. M KC - M u l t i m e d i a C u l t u r e C e n t r e (Multimedijalni kulturni centar) D/E-2, Savska

bb, tel. (+385-21) 53 74 49/(+385-21) 53 74 71, mkcsplit@mkcsplit.hr, www.mkcsplit.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kula Gallery, Velimir Veličković

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Summer 2012

Culture & Events Split Film Festival 15.09 Saturday - 22.09 Saturday

Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film info@splitfilmfestival.hr, www.splitfilmfestival.hr. There is no festival like it, are the words of English film director Stuart Pound as the 17th edition of the Split Film Festival is set to offer 8 days of mouth-watering specials for all film aficionados. Take out your diaries and lock in the competition programme with feature and short films, then there is the latest in world documentaries, erotica, a tribute to Swiss film, Mediterranean films, new media and dare we forget the side programmes which include (lectures, presentations, workshops and informal gatherings), and more... Hmmm 8 days you say! Yes and its open to all new innovative, personal, experimental, subversive and radical creations from all genres. It might not be Hollywood but it gives world film its very own platform. The opening of the festival will be at the Central Cinema whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman Cinema, Zlatna vrata Kinoteka and the MKC exibition space in Dom mladež. Movies are scheduled daily from 17:00 to 23:00. Part of the programme is free; otherwise it is 15kn per ticket.

30.08 Thursday - 08.09 Saturday

MAGfestival

J-2, City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.com. For the 3rd year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery.

08.11 Thursday - 09.11 Friday

The 2nd International Festival of Archaeological Film in Split

A-3, Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, www.mhas-split.hr. Forget Hollywood and Bollywood for a few days, film fans that have a deeper desire for archaeology and the protection of cultural heritage should come hence forth. The event has a competitive and non-competitive programme, matinee shows for children and the latest advances in applied archaeology research and techniques.

Small galleries Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split. hr/str/galic.htm. Q June Open 10:00 -13:00, 17:30 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava 10, tel. (+385-) 091 454 66 66/(+385-) 091 386 77 22, galerija.kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, www. mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@

fotoklubsplit.hr, www.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugely enjoyable gallery of contemporary photography with an imaginative programme of themed exhibitions, featuring international photographers as well as works by members of the local photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 -13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

The cellars of Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanovi podrumi) I/J-3, hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 35kn.

Cinemas Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 38 13, www.ekran.hr.

Cineplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, www.cineplexx.hr.

CineStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel.

(+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www.ekran.hr. Kinoteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 13 35, www.pouciliste-split.hr. Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice) D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, www.ekran.hr. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. Open July, August.

Concerts of classical music during the Split Summer Festival, held in the Museum Meštrović Crikvine – Kaštilac

Split In Your Pocket

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Where to stay Cream of the crop Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00

00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, reservations@hotel-atrium. hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. You‘re not in the middle of the action if you‘re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q128 rooms (125 doubles €170 - 290, 3 suites €550). PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Upmarket Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02,

fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www. arthotel.hr. If you‘re a business traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a car, you‘ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either way, you‘ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishlydecorated room with Internet access included in the price. Q36 rooms (36 singles €125, 36 doubles €165, 36 triples €185). PHAULGBKW hhhh Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00, fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www. hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q 52 rooms (30 singles €89, 30 doubles €121, 18 Twin Rooms €121, 4 Family Rooms €164). PHAULKXW hhhh Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11, fax (+385-21) 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www. hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that usually doesn‘t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (28 singles €139, 28 doubles €178, 5 triples €217). PHA6LNGKW hhhh Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44, fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit. com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. Location, location! An exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace, bus and trains station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar bar, and wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior is superbly designed blending the ancient stone that defines Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek and stylish! Pets allowed on payment of 7€ per night and a one-off payment of 14€ for cleaning the room. Q30 rooms (3 singles €130 - 160, 24 doubles €115 - 250, 1 Deluxe Suites €400 - 450, 2 Prestige Suite €250 - 315). PHA6UFLGXW hhhh

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

C Swimming pool

D Sauna

6 Animal friendly

APARTMENTS AND ROOMS

Spinčićeva 33e, 21000 Split Croatia Tel: +385 21 782 323 Mob: +385 98 708 578 info@adriaticqueen.net

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Summer 2012

Where to stay Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80

60/(+385-) 091 629 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel. com. Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge). All rooms have parquet floors, creamy colour schemes and views of neighbouring, green-shuttered buildings. There is a reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been made with splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21 singles €157 - 178, 21 doubles €230 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €1270 - 1805). PALGW hhhh Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00, fax (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www. hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel‘s life. There‘s no pool, the rooms‘ bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q58 rooms (21 singles €124 - 145, 35 doubles €164 - 198, 2 Junior Suites €317 - 359). PHA6ULGBKDW hhhh President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52 22, fax (+385-21) 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com. hr, www.hotelpresident.hr. Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q73 rooms (8 singles €127, 55 doubles €167 - 233, 10 Presidential Suites €253 - 368). PHA6ULGBKW hhhh Radisson Blu Resort Split F-3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31, info.split@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-split. Luxurious resort on the compelling Adriatic Sea, unique rooms and suites in every range with wellappointed features; two refreshing pools, spas, saunas and treatments in a wellness oasis, a stunning 900 foot beach front, authentic Mediterranean cuisine, and so much more to offer. Q 246 rooms (110 singles €172 - 264, 106 doubles €187 - 279, 10 suites €300 - 379, 18 Junior Suites €300 - 359, 2 Presidential Suites €1000 - 3500). PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace. com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for Split‘s visiting elite. Q11 rooms (4 singles €190 - 230, 5 doubles €230 - 315, 1 suite €325 - 480, 1 Junior Suite €265 - 370). PALGBKW hhhh

Mid-range Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@ hotel-adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700 - 750kn, 11 doubles 950 - 1100kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn). PABKXW hhh Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen minutes‘ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4 singles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments €205). PHALGBKXW hhh Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34 39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit. com, www.kastelsplit.com. One of the best value small guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 single €80 - 90, 2 doubles €110 - 115, 1 triple €150 - 155, 2 apartments €184 - 200, 1 Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €110 - 115). PAGW hhh More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+38521) 46 21 12, fax (+385+21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@ hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascadestyle building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (8 singles €85 - 107, 8 doubles €107 - 130, 1 suite €117 159). PAULGW hhh Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil. com, w w w.hotelperistil.com. Gi ven th e excellen t furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn‘t anywhere in the neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €135, 9 doubles €162). PA6BKW hhh Slavija I-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40, fax (+385-21) 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.hr, www. hotelslavija.hr. Slavija‘s stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25 rooms (6 singles €113 - 126, 11 doubles €144 - 166, 8 triples €170 - 180). PA6LGW hhh As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax (+385-21) 36 61 11, info@hotelas-split.com, www. hotelas-split.com. If you‘re willing to travel a bit to get to it, this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles 550kn, 33 doubles 720kn). PALKW hhh

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Where to stay Hostels Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel.

(+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www. gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth, small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar with drinks aplenty, waterfront views and is literally less than a one minute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it matches most other hotels but with features you would not believe! Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information about prices contact the hostel. Q 99 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHABKW Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38521) 49 08 05, silvercentralhostel@gmail.com, www.silvercentralhostel.com. Bright, high-ceilinged apartment with a welcoming reception/common room and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own internet terminal. Q 26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per person. PJNW Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvergatehostel@gmail. com, www.silvergatehostel.com. Run by the same team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment building with fine views of the Palace‘s eastern gate. Q 26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per person. PNW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement bar. Q 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PGW Sunseekers I-2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 521 64 52, sunseekers@net.hr. A top stop over for travellers with four dormitories consisting of various bed numbers, two bathrooms, a chill out room, free Wi-Fi, air con, safety lockers and other goodies. 18th century building and if location means anything, you are in the heart of Split. Great staff! Q 18 dorm beds, 110 - 150kn per person. PJGW Tchaikovsky Hostel D-2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 24/(+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@tchaikovskyhostel.com, www.t-hostel.com. Boutique type hostel with attention paid to detail; 20 beds on offer and each with a private curtain, reading light and more. Real mattresses, real pillows, reasonable rates and the real deal! Informative staff that will answer your every question. Q 20 dorm beds, 110 - 180kn per person. PJAG

Old-School charm Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21)

34 56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, bellevue@inet.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today‘s hotel Bellevue is located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel offering curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name „Grand hotel Bellevue“, and was later renovated in 1934. Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today‘s hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 79 - 93kn, 34 doubles 108 - 128kn, 3 triples 143 - 164kn, 3 apartments 153 172kn). AR6LBKX hhh

Split In Your Pocket

Budget Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25,

fax (+385-21) 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www. hoteldujam.com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (4 singles €60 - 66, 29 doubles €79 - 93, 2 apartments €99 112). PHALGKW hh

Brač Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata bb, Bol, tel.

(+385-21) 30 62 02, fax (+385-21) 30 62 15, borak@ bluesunhotels.com, www.brachotelborak.com. The lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters from the beach and close to the town centre. Prices are per person/per day. Q 184 rooms (133 doubles €69 - 86, 3 suites €80 - 117, 48 Family Rooms €80 - 117). PTAFLGKXCW hhhh Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 74 00 00, fax (+385-21) 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www. hotelpastura.hr. It‘s perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Q50 rooms (31 doubles €44 - 82, 6 suites €48 - 86, 4 apartments €52 - 135, 8 Junior Suites €46 - 84, 1 Presidential Suite €48 86). PTAUFLGBKDCW hhhh Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar, tel. (+385-21) 63 11 33, fax (+385-21) 63 13 44, sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts. com. Comprising residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on Brač. Given the fact that it‘s part of a consortium of hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located right on the beach. Q440 rooms (78 singles €65 - 131, 78 doubles €52 - 85, 277 triples €52 - 85, 63 suites €58 - 116, 22 Junior Suites €55 - 98). Prices are per person. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh

Hvar Croatia Majerovica bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 24 00, fax (+385-21) 74 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelcroatia.net. Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28 rooms (22 doubles €70 - 194, 6 Family Rooms €105 - 291). PJAFLGBKW hhh

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Where to stay Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 75 01 00, fax

(+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.com, riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar. com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these details, and you‘ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour. Q54 rooms (46 doubles €167 - 325, 8 suites €253 - 526). PA6UGKW hhhh The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 19 66, fax (+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar. com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldn‘t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4 singles €53 - 75, 57 doubles €84 - 194, 12 suites €135 - 238). PHA6GKCW hhh

Kaštela Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 79 81 40, fax (+385-21) 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria. hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 06:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria‘s location can afford you a few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2 singles €51 - 61, 5 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €100 - 116). PALBKW hhh

Podstrana Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. (+385-

San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. (+38521) 33 61 11, fax (+385-21) 33 53 48, info@hotelsanantonio.com, www.hotel-sanantonio.com. The words “San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23 rooms (15 singles €155 - 170, 15 doubles €190 - 210, 15 triples €220 - 245, 6 suites €200 - 325, 2 Penthouses €240 - 275). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh

Trogir Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. (+385-21) 88 51 85/ (+385-) 091 484 84 34, fax (+385-21) 79 77 29, info@ hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn, 1 apartment 1200kn). PAGBKXW hhhh

Vis Biševo Ribarska 96, Komiža, tel. (+385-21) 71 32 79/ (+385-21) 71 31 44, fax (+385-21) 71 30 98, info@hotelbisevo.com, www.hotel-bisevo.com.hr. Probably the best bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Prices are per person / per day. Q130 rooms (2 singles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn, 5 apartments 300 - 463kn). PTALBKXW hh Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. (+385-21) 71 11 24, fax (+385-21) 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www. vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone‘s throw from the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a balcony looking out onto the bay. Prices are per person / per day. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles 235 - 460kn). PALBK hhh

21) 50 05 00, fax (+385-21) 50 03 00, reservations_ split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/split. Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located 8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 singles €290, 370 doubles €330 - 480, 2 Diplomatic Suites €1300, 2 Family Suites €700, 5 Junior Suites €650, 2 Presidential Suites€2200).POTHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Split.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Split In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

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Camp Baško Polje

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Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

B Outside seating

Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel.

International Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriatic-graso. com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.hr. This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It‘s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 110kn). PAGB Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetitsplit.hr. Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 100kn). PJAG Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban. com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB split.inyourpocket.com

(+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean‘s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAG Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, mail@restoranduje.hr, w w w.restoranduje.hr. This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It‘s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com. Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (80 130kn). PAGB Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65, www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It‘s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). PAGB Mediteranium Put Firula 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 79, mediteranium@live.com, www.mediteraniumsplit.com. New to town and has a spark of class to it. Located close to the beach, the menu reverberates both modern and balanced with fish and meats nicely paired. Informative waiters, fair wine selection with fair prices... And the Lounge Bar is set up to unwind with purple fluorescent lights in the backdrop and light music. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. EB

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Restaurants Pizza Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more closely resemble a soup if you don‘t give it time to cool. There‘s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus for the economically challenged is the relatively miniscule price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings: feferoni (peppers), frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive), rajčica / pomidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon), šunka (ham).

Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32.

The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that‘s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38 110kn). PAGB Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. You‘ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it‘s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you‘ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (36 - 50kn). PAG

Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88, konmaslina@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that‘s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 11:00 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PAGB Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77. There are two Velo Misto‘s, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (32 - 140kn). PAG Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 15. Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the name ‘The Golden Gate‘ and is surrounded by a lovely courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads are significantly filling. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (20 - 60kn). PNGB

Seafood Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 86 48,

Fast food Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 84 60. Stop in for a quick pastry snack and tasty sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18kn). B Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There‘s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Mc Donald‘s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker), tel. (+385-21) 49 33 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. It is there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (7 - 39.5kn). PAB Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ (+385-) 091 574 07 64. Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (6 - 18kn). B

www.bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 400kn). PAGBW Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00. Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAGB

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Restaurants Photo Competition Be Local! Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky! The four competitions run during the following dates:

1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition. An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions. The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.

Mistral F-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort,

Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com. Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks. The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you‘re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (100 - 700kn). TALEGBXSW Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restorannostromo.hr. Here‘s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you‘ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). PNG Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49. Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It‘s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass ‘Ispod ure‘ (under the clock tower) simply turn right. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJAGB Stellon D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 92 00. Stelon‘s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine. The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:30. (45 - 390kn). AGB

How to Enter

Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”. Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken. The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.

Conditions of Entry

We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for non-commercial purposes together with

the name of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list.

*Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93

33, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. This restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (30 - 80kn). PAGBXW

The Olive Oil Week 21.06 Thursday - 24.06 Sunday I-2/3 Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda, www.maslinovoulje.hr. One of Croatia’s famous exports and by golly you’ll meet an expert or two here. Get the be all end all of olive oil with shows on combining olive oil with food and ingredients, as well as communication, design, labelling and packaging of olive oil products

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Restaurants

Traditional Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52

23/(+385-) 098 40 37 30, www.buffet-fife.com. Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife‘s only drawback is it‘s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNGBX Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 091 767 58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings‘ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PNG

Light bites Croissant French Food D-3, Kraj Sv. Marije 6.

Charming little bakery/patisserie type store located in the heart of the city. The scent of freshly baked pastries radiate with soufflé, tuna salad, bread and croissants directly from France, pasta to go, cakes, and other scrumptious goodies. Take out only! QOpen 07:30 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. (8 - 28kn). A Šperun deva H-2, Šperun 2. Firstly, there exists Šperun and Šperun Deva! In the first you can eat and dine well, and in the other you can definitely take advantage for breakfast or a good glass of wine and cheese. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20 - 60kn). PNB

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Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 400kn). PAGB Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGB Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It‘s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It‘s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain‘t bad, actually it‘s quite good. It‘s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 90kn). PALB

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Restaurants Desserts Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hr v.nar odnog preporoda 20. A Split insti tu tion, Bobis has been providing the city‘s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it‘s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+38521) 35 51 23. You have a sweet tooth and the craving has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest pastry shops in town. Fantastic cakes, homemade pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PRNGBW Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It‘s close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. PNGB La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog preporoda 20. The proprietors of La Maison de Sarah meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade delights, including authentic French tarts and pastries. Unfortunately, it‘s not actually a house - all the pastries are take-away only. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. NS Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70. This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. N

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Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you‘re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn). PAGB Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, pimpinellast@yahoo.com. A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn). PAGB Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99. A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PJAGB Terra Antika D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+38521) 31 48 01. This cellar restaurant and wine bar located in Bačvice stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features prosciutto and dishes infused with flavoursome Istrian truffles. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). PAGB

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Restaurants

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Summer 2012

Restaurants CAFÉs Bakery Kruščić I-2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-) 099 261 23 45. Are you picky about bread? Then just above the fish market sits a bread shop which serves baked bread without additives. They are also famous for replicating a type of Roman bread made of wheat, goat cheese and honey. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JX Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34

87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. (40 - 70kn). PNG

Vegetarian Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,

info@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you‘re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…you‘ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 70kn). PNG

Wine bar Hedonist K-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 380

39 66. A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dalmatian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages! The bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine and only minutes from the Riva. The owner Igor is quite the connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied with various local delicacies. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by prior arrangement. NW Paradox I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2. This has ‘Dalmatia‘ written all over it with over 100 wines and 20 or so cheeses that are primarily local produce. Pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds. QOpen 07:30 - 23:30. JBX

Tapas Tapas bar Split I-2, Tončićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 62 51, tapasbar.st@gmail.com. Menu wise it‘s definitely friendly towards both vegetarians and meat lovers. A broad choice of sandwiches, burgers, salads (includes the Diocletian Salad), various hot n cold dishes, pasta, paella, desserts and super omlettes for that important morning meal. Fair prices for any travelling tourist, simple and cute interior! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JAB

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CAFÉs Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33. The stunning Prokurative Square is home to this brand new classical café and restaurant which is named in honour of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to the restaurant and terrace which houses Croatian and in particular local Dalmatian cuisine combined with assorted Mediterranean, French and Italian specialties. Opened just weeks ago, it is sleek and of high quality. QOpen 07:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. PAGBX Ćakula D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on offer and don‘t forget peruse the café interior with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJABXW Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here‘s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they‘d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it‘s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It‘s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGBX Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW Galerija J-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PGBW Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09. If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it‘s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant). (50 - 110kn). PAGBW Kavana Figa I-2, Buvinina 1. It‘s easy to get to Figa, just take a right from the Voćni trg and straight in the narrow passage you‘ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior. Whether you elect to stand or sit you‘re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of delish cocktails and DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW Libar I-2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, service@caffe-libar.com, www.caffe-libar.com. ‘Libar‘ in local dialect means ‘a book‘ and though this isn‘t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor‘s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There‘s wireless Internet, magazines and split.inyourpocket.com

daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAGBXW Plava Laguna E-3, Put Firula 20. A visit to this terraced beach bar in Firule is perfect after a whole day spent soaking up the sun and sea. Nearby are a few restaurants and O‘Hara night club.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. BW Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an intimate affair, come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square (Voćni trg) giving a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. GBX Šetač I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar‘s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNBX Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 10, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBX Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. (+385-21) 39 48 88. A small but charming place for a break in between checking out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB Vidilica C-2/3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 49 25. The best thing about this one is the view, and as far as views go, it doesn‘t get much better. The harbor and the Riva, the sea and the islands are all on glorious display. Plus, the cafe‘s location makes it a perfect starting or finishing point to an afternoon spent exploring Marjan. QOpen 08:00 24:00. PGBW Žbirac D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, anteakrap@ gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNGB

Summer 2012

Nightlife

Hedonist & Egoist Club

Bars

Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41

Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes from someone‘s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJBX Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJBX Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNBX Legends bar E-3, Uvala Bačvice. Wanting some beachfront vibe, then saunter up to this night bar on Bačvice, the city‘s iconic beach. It‘s a jazz/rock n blues bar with things heating up every summer as live concerts are often staged outdoors. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. AEBX Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There‘s plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

91. Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you‘ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu‘s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it‘s also an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PBX Red Room J-2, Cararina poljana 4. Hang out of a more mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW ST Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJGBW

Clubs

Robert Barilla

Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel.

(+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hemingway.hr, www. hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won‘t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won‘t even make it past the door. This is Split‘s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 06:00. PAGBXW

Robert Barilla

Split In Your Pocket

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Nightlife Nightlife

O‘Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 091 794 13 49, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups of Split‘s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you‘re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBX Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. (+385-) 098 29 25 22. Match the look of Split‘s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You‘ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PAGBX

Robert Barilla

Imperium D-3, Gat Svetog Duje bb, tel. (+385-) 095

875 02 19, info@imperium.hr, www.imperium.hr. An out of this world lounge bar that is utterly translucent with a 3D like interior and couch booths all round. Loads of natural light enters and an outdoor terrace offers majestic city views by day and night. Drinks galore on hand, super staff and really, this personifies ‘exclusive‘. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. June 21 - September 10 Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAEXW Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-) 095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle (located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You‘re invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 06:00. PNGBX

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Robert Barilla

Summer 2012

What to see Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken over by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central Split is an attraction in itself. There‘s no single must-see attraction here: it‘s really a question of taking time to stroll the palace‘s narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman, medieval and Renaissance buildings jostle together to form a unique urban jumble. And you shouldn‘t just restrict your wanderings to the city centre: residential neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš, Lučac and Manuš are filled with the kind of picturesque alleys and stone houses that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian towns. Rising above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents an easily accessible expanse of woodland park, with some fine views back towards the centre.

Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt

Rub the Bishops big toe and luck will follow wherever you go!

Essential Split

Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.

A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian‘s palace has become the quintessential „living museum“, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as „the basement“ was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it‘s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures. Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5. Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something‘s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain - it‘s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There‘s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.

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wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split‘s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol‘ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends. Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3. When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia‘s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis. Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It‘s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching.

Snails are a traditional rubbery delicacy round here

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Whatto to see see What Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2,

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius

(Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor‘s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian‘s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian‘s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port. Veli Varoš H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It‘s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.

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Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski. Even though it‘s situated north of the town centre, Split‘s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum‘s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city‘s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family‘s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 -10kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej)

K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe For tr ess), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms. hr, w w w.hpms.hr. Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you‘ll miss out on many of Split‘s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It‘s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the WhiteheadLupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Sun open by prior arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografski-muzejst@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you‘re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia‘s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you‘re in luck. Split‘s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September 14 Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Summer 2012

What to see

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,

Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum‘s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum‘s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum‘s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21)

36 01 55/(+385-21) 36 01 65, gorana@mgst.net, www. mgst.net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (18721953). Croatia‘s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović‘s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist‘s former studio - including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures

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by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović‘s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac

B-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+38521) 34 08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter‘s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović‘s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see „Landmarks“). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist‘s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years‘ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QMay September Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and holidays. October - April Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 15kn Children, 30kn Adults, 50 kn Family.

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What to see Churches Saint Dominic‘s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel.

(+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, www.dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic‘s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano‘ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple‘, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 19:00. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.

The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just inside the Iron Gates inside

Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica

kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 11/(+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum. hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Split‘s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic‘s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Diocletian‘s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It‘s bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a

collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia‘s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.

The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the

Marjan Mountain, you‘ll pass by the church of Saint Francais (13th century) in which there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin (1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.

The Church of Saint Mar tin (Golden gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2. The church is 1.64m wide and

10m long and it just might be the smallest church in the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is a Dominican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius.

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Summer 2012

What to see Landmarks Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49

99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www. hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia‘s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city‘s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since.

Branko Ostojić

The Franciscan Church and Monaster y of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crk va i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2,

tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com, www.samostan-poljud.com. On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you‘ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts. The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin‘s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 and 20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).

The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained

church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque paintings by Venetian artists.

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What to see

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals as „Poljudska ljepotica“ or the „Poljud beauty“, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in 2012. However, as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games, the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team‘s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‚to cheer‘), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as „bili“, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the team‘s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players.

Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike (Republic

Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split. The Blue Tree D-2. If you happen to walk along Vukovarska Street, also dubbed as ‘tree avenue‘, then you will come across ‘The Blue Tree‘, a new 7.5 meter art installation made of steel. It is located close to the atelier of Vasko Lipovac, the local born sculptor who produced this art work and it commemorates his crafty and grandiose opus.

Poljud stadium, Adriatic Photo Service

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Summer 2012

What to see Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2. Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you might have guessed, fruit square. These days there‘s no fruit in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović.

Streets and Squares

Branko Ostojić

Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From 1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many urban improvements were made under the supervision of the French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh shops and cafés. Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca)

I-2. A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly referred to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as the city‘s central meeting area and it remains so to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history exhibitions in the summer months.

Stepping out, Split style

Split In Your Pocket

Branko Ostojić

Zoo Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2, Marjan, tel. (+385-21) 39 45 25. Despite the presence of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split‘s zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture. And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining, there‘s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks, rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in another. The zoo‘s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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Mail & Phones Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 24 17/(+385-21) 34 24 19. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Post office I/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-21) 40 67 05, www.posta.hr. Q June, October Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September 30 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Postcrads

Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

3,10 kn 7,10 kn 1,60 kn 3,10 kn

Express mail DHL E/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, hrspu@dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A In time D-1, Put Stinica bb, tel. (+385-21) 50 81 66/ (+385-) 091 626 20 30, 091 626 20 78, split@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Over seasExpress J-1, Domovinskog rata 10, Dugopolje, tel. (+385-21) 66 01 53/(+385-21) 66 01 54, split@overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City express mail City Ex F-2, Ulica grada Vukovara 183a, tel. (+385-

21) 37 66 77/(+385-) 0800 303 333, split@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

Internet places Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. (+385-21) 34

81 10, info100d@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half hour 12kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 34 76 61/(+385-) 091 311 42 22, info@n-c. hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15min / 7kn, 25kn/hour. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, www.travel49.com. 10kn/20min, 30kn/h. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Public telephone All public phones in Croatia are card operated and you can purchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren‘t convenient for you. T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. (+385-) 0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A T-Centar F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. (+385-) 0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A Tele 2 I-2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 02, alo2@aloalo.hr, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Vip centar F-2, Vukovarska 207 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet. hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Making the call You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here‘s the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you‘re calling Split for instance) followed by the subscriber‘s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber‘s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098,099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscriber‘s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Calling Split From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) and the number

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Summer 2012

Getting around Public Transport Day bus lines 1 through 18 and 21, 22 run from 05:00 to 23:00. There is three night buses, number 23, 39, 40 which run on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. The company that operates Split‘s buses is called Promet Split, so make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying to buy a ticket. If you‘re trying to beat the system and riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska‘s ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services, call (+385-21) 40 79 99. Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@promet-split.hr, www.prometsplit.hr.

Trains Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet. hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station and doesn‘t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:20 or a night train from Split at 21:18, there‘s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car or motorbike and don‘t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 186,30 - 266,30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.

Dubrovnik is at the very south of Croatia and is approximately 5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 1:30 and the last at 17:15. Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 1:30 with the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour and the trip takes about 1 hour. The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to Rijeka at 21:30. There are eight bus lines towards Rijeka every day.

Car rental ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 23 64/ (+385-) 099 342 30 01, 091 153 41 46, info@rentacarabc.com, www.rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Avis & Budget Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, tel. (+385-21) 20 34 79/ (+385-) 091 314 30 11, split.apt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.hr.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A

Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 17, tel. (+385-

21) 39 90 00/(+385-21) 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa. hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Emaco E-2/3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines center Koteks), tel. (+385-21) 53 95 06/(+385-1) 098 25 51 88, emaco@emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić (Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. (+385-) 098 23 10 81, rentacar-st@uniline.hr, www.europcar.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 04 55/ (+385-) 091 36 04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Uni Rent C-3, Šperun 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 97, split@ uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Buses Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,

Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/ (+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. The main bus station isn‘t the most impressive building in town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten minutes‘ walk to the old town. If you‘re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk. The international ticket office is open 06:00 - 21:30. If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts at 1:00am with buses leaving every hour thereafter. The last bus leaves at 23:59. For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 08:30 and is followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45.

Split In Your Pocket

Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 17 77. The starting fee for a taxi trip is 18kn, with a 8kn fee added per kilometre and 2.5kn added per each piece of luggage and 50kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva. Prices for the season were not finalized at the time of going to print.

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Getting around Parking First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split (and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we‘ve sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can continue. There are four parking zones and prices go from 3 - 5kn/hour depending on the zone and time when parking is charged. In the Zone 1 parking is payable 06:30 - 21:30, and in Zones 2, 3 and 4 07:00 - 19:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price range from 3 - 5kn/h. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you‘re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), or 48kn for all other zones. Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 6 to 10 kunas depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you‘re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a hour maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and every second is 15kn. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Airport Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)

Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr, www.split-airport.hr. The airport is relatively small but serves a fair number of domestic and European cities. If you‘re not able to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before Croatia Airlines flights. If you didn‘t manage to blow all your kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the main hall of the airport. And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping, enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.

Airport bus If you‘re flying with Croatia Airlines you can check the bus timetable at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or on (+385) 098 28 38 57. At the moment the bus stop is on the corner of the Riva (the seafront) and the road which leads to the port, coach and railway stations. However, the bus stop is due to be relocated to a spot right by the coach station. So it‘s wise to check with the airport in advance. The trip costs 30kn for a single ticket, and kids under 6 go for free. Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska bus station; tickets cost 17kn one way, leaving every 20 minutes.

Brač Airport Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 01/(+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. Q June 1 - 30, September - October Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:30. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.

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SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you‘re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you‘ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car.

Bike & Scooter Rental Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, info@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. Q Open

08:00 - 22:00. A

San Diego tours I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+38521) 41 00 34/(+385-) 091 333 35 48, booking@ car-hire-rental.info, www.rentacar.com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

Charter BavAdria Yachting Franje Tuđmana 213, Kaštel Gomilica, tel. (+385-21) 20 40 20/(+385-) 098 32 16 57, bavadria@bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 32 31 01/(+385-) 098 29 98 77, split@euromarine.hr, www. euromarine.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Sun by request. Gringo nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Marina Zenta, tel. (+385-21) 38 98 00/(+385-) 098 940 37 77, gringo. nautica@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. (+38521) 40 77 00/(+385-21) 40 77 02, charter@navaboats. com, www.navaboats.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sun by request. Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 20 15/(+385-21) 098 45 22 25, orvas-yachting@ orvas.hr, www.orvas-yachting.com. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat by request. Closed Sun. Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni 6a, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/ (+385-) 098 29 46 35, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www. ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Ferries Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We‘ve expounded much on the convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the bus and train stations, but if you still don‘t know where it is, making your way there has been simplified by those handy signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening hours of each office change according to season, but during peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00 and the main office closes at midnight. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island

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Getting around you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On all ferries, you‘ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it‘s not possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time. You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you from which dock the ferry leaves.

Jadrolinija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83

Road help

33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation towards the islands. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00. Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice, tel. (+385-21) 87 28 77/(+385-) 091 205 98 86, luka. tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in Jadrolinija agency. Q Open by prior arrangement. MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja. com. SNAV agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splitours.hr, www. splittours.hr. Blue Line International (Split - Ancona line) agent. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). Q June - July 22, August 27 - October Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:30. July 23 - August 26 Open 07:30 - 20:30.

Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat Sv.Duje 1, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com. hr, www.portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Harbormaster‘s office

Travel agencies

Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster‘s office) I-3,

Obala Lazareta 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 55 00/(+385-21) 36 24 36.

Marinas ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 99/(+385-21) 54 94 87, 54 94 88, m.split@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 22:00.

Petrol station for boats INA-Obala H-3, Obala kneza Branimira 7, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 45, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A

Petrol stations (0-24) INA-Pojišan D/K-3, Pojišanska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 46, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A INA-Visoka G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 50, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Lukoil - Sirobuja G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+38521) 31 67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel. (+385-21) 26 08 19, www.omv.hr. Q May - October Open 00:00 - 24:00 A

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HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-21) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

Port Authority

Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-21) 49 01 30/ (+385-21) 49 01 29, info@adriatic-travel. hr, www.adriatic-travel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A F-tours putovanja D/2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice

3, tel. (+385-21) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.ftours.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22 33, info@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. Q Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00, 15:00 - 20:30. A

www.inyourpocket.com Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn‘t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you‘ll need to shell out 340kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel. (+385-21) 37 68 48

Summer 2012

Getting around

Sport Adventure sports

Paragliding

Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel.

Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel.

(+385-) 091 501 29 13, info@adventuredalmatia.com, www.splitadventure.com. Rafting on the River Cetina, sea kayaking, canyoning. Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. (+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49, cetina@dalmatiarafting.com, www.dalmatiarafting. com. Rafting, canoeing, kayaking, free climbing and paintball. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54 86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, info@falco-tours.com, www.falco-tours.com. Call for arrangements. Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. (+38521) 86 22 38/(+385-) 098 81 36 80, info@radmanovemlinice.hr, www.radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and canoeing. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) 091 529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus. hr. Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.

(+385-21) 71 72 39/(+385-) 091 250 38 09, 091 520 50 80, alternatura@alternatura.hr, www.alternatura. hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A

Sailing

Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni 6a, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/

(+385-21) 39 89 80, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www. ultra-sailing.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.

Tennis

TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Solin, tel. (+385-21) 21 24 42. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. day time 50kn/h, night time 60kn/h. TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. (+385-21) 38 95 76, www.tk-split.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. daytime 50kn/h, night 75kn/h.

Windsurfing

7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel. (+385-21) 48

04 28/(+385-) 091 516 62 01, info@7bofora.com, www.7bofora.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 63 56 14, tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, www.big-blue-sport. hr. Windsurfing, diving, sea-kayaking, mountain biking and beachvolley. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Split In Your Pocket

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SUKOIŠAN 24,25 26,27

Poljièka cesta

Jadranska magistrala STOBREÈ 25

Makarska Dubrovnik

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MEJAŠI 6,18

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DUILOVO 15

PAZDIGRAD

18 BRNIK

KILA 40 6

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diving in the adriatic Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore. This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers. The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in places, mainly in channels where the water surges between islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands. Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive under water rock faces and reefs and is dotted wi th shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.

Take the plunge with numerous centres offering diving instruction, night diving, cave diving, reef diving, beautiful wall diving, wreck diving, and shallow diving People have always been curious to discover the secrets concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails. But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal the greatest mysteries of the planet. On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s dependence on the sea for i ts li velihood. We know, for example, that towards the end of the 19th century people from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they had made themselves.

The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of the most attractive locations here are around the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik area.

Experience the Adriatic Sea beyond your wildest imagination by scuba-diving Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting – and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are: the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the island of Korčula. Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.

So why not allow the rich corals, reefs, crustaceans, fish, shellfish, morays, flora and fauna become your temporary acquaintances before you return to surface

Split In Your Pocket

Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks with a special permit. And you need prior permission from the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following locations:

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Diving in the adriatic

Adriatic is rich in flora and fauna, some of witch is unique to these waters The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo and Palagruža Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57 The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an individual or as part of a group. If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact a registered diving instructor, school or association (see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to depths greater than 40m.

The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you have finished. Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing! We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!

Dive centres Akvatorij D-1 Put Supavla 21/III, (+385-21) 45 95 45, info@akvatorij.hr, www.akvatorij.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Issa Ribarska 91, Komiža (Vis), tel.(+385-21) 71 36 51, info@scubadiving.hr, www.scubadiving.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. More sub Diving School K.P.Krešimira IV.43, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 17 27, (+385-) 098 173 99 26, info@more-sub-makarska.hr, www.moresub-makarska.hr. QOpen Mon - Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Viking Put podstine 7, Hvar, tel.(+385-21) 74 25 29, info@viking-diving.com, www.viking-diving.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced diver, the options are endless

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www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

Shopping Atelier Perajica

Jaman Gallery

Shopping centres & Malls City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+38521) 51 01 30, info-st@citycenterone.com, w w w. citycenterone.hr. Q June - August 26 Open 09:00 - 22:00. August 27 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.

J-2 Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@ atelierperajica.com, www.atelierperajica.com. This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photodocumentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner, art theorist and critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed.

Antiques Antique‘s & Art‘s D-3, Plinarska 21, tel. (+385-) 098 917 63 68. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. N

Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 22/(+385-) 098 51 62 78. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30,

17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art Galleries Atelier Mikulić E-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 37 17 22/ (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@ gmail.com, www.gallerymikulic.com. QOpen by prior arrangement. Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/

(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www. jaman-art.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Oya Noya I-2, Mihovilova širina 2, tel. (+385-) 095 593 20 92. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00 A Paparella J-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 40 78. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00. Closed Sun. A

English books & newspapers Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 80 30, split@algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. Q Open

08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Mozaik I-2, Šubićeva 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 50, www.profil-international.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A VBZ I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 80, www. vbz.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Looking for more? split.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket

Chic & Cheerful Upi - 2M Books Kružićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 34

40 24. This is not just your ordinary bookshop; it is also part of the Institute for Art History with a primary focus on architecture, design and art; with an interesting anthology of designer items, souvenirs, city guides and maps. To top it off, there are 7000 book titles, magazines and software on offer. Well worth a look for out literature devotees! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Get get get J-2, Vuškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr. One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products. The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented; good products that are unique and not made for the masses. QOpen 10:00 - 13:30, 18:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:30.

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Shopping

city centar

Shopping Croatian Design 2A I-2, Trg braće Radić 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 69, crnilabud@crnilabud.com, www.crnilabud.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Concept I-2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 31 21 90. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Luk J-2, Andrićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 47. Q Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed

Sun. A

Think Pink I-2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71

26, senka.jurisic@gmail.com, www.thinkpink.com. hr. Also at (I-2) Bosanska 3. Open 09:00 - 22:00. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. JA

Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 24. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21)

33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split. hr.QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. July - September Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijankinijeva 8, tel. (+38521) 32 30 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Deliiicije I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 32 31 49, www.deliiicije.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - September Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 19:00 - 23:00. Dolcezza I-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 38 52. Also at I-2, Bosanska 16, tel. 021 36 00 21, QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.

(+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www. vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

Franja coffee I-2, Trg Braće Radić 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 64/ (+385-) 091 582 98 11, www.franja. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00 A Judita - gourmet & wine shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. QOpen

08:30 - 22:00. A Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www. kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Nadalina J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,

Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A Closed Sun. A Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A

The oldest bookstore Morpurgo I-2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68

43. Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split‘s National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and this man‘s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

The Cellars of Diocletian’s Palace

Split In Your Pocket

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Shopping Business directory

Banks & Exchanges Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel. (+385-21) 43 98 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen

08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. (+385-21) 42 10 07/(+385-) 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. (+385-21) 30 41 85/(+385-) 0800 21 00 21, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel. (+385-21) 35 23 44/(+385-21) 35 22 22, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Business connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber (Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4,

tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmatinske županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30,

tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign representations Chile (Consulate) E-1, Boktuljin put bb, tel. (+385-21) 35 24 01, fax (+385-21) 36 71 18, jbuljubasic@sem.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark (Consulate) E-3, Matice Hrvatske 15, tel. (+385-21) 55 86 00/(+385-) 098 984 44 28, danmarkhc@igh.hr, www.ambzagreb.um.dk. Please make an appointment before visiting. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-) 091 339 12 12, fax (+385-21) 71 14 34, milan. senjanovic@vip.hr, www.finland.hr. Please arrange an appointment. Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. (+38521) 40 93 47, fax (+385-21) 48 64 01, split@hk-diplo. de, www.zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary (Consulate) D-2, Gundulićeva 26A, tel. (+38521) 48 00 19/(+385-21) 38 02 03, hungconsulate.st@ email.t-com.hr, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/zagreb. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 55/(+385-21) 34 45 77, fax (+385-21) 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@ esteri.it, www.consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 12:00, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. split.inyourpocket.com

Slovenia (Consulate) D-2, Istarska 9, tel. (+385-21)

38 92 24, fax (+385-21) 38 92 23, generalni.konzulat. rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden (Consulate) K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 34, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands (Consulate) D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14/XII, tel./fax (+385-21) 31 23 99, silvanakondic@ gmail.com, www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For the rest of the week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 07, fax (+38521) 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www. ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 07:30 - 15:30, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel.

(+385-21) 53 68 23/(+385-) 099 200 01 15, info@ benelliestates.com, www.benelliestates.com. QOpen 08:30 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. (+385-21) 34 31 05, 36 21 40/(+385-) 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17 69, trgostan@trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Hospital Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 55 71 11.

Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 55 61 11

Dry cleaners & Laundries Relucesco Laundrette Split C-2, Plinarska 28, tel. (+385-21) 78 28 08. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 19:00.

24-hour pharmacies Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31 88,

ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Stjepana Držislava 22

(Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, sine@ primapharme.hr, www.primapharme.hr. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00. A

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

Makarska riviera

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives) Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism. If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You‘ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea. Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you‘ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic. This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20°C reaching summertime peaks of 23 °C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy

the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there‘s plenty of local wine. Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains. After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe.

The Vepric Shrine On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that work here. If you‘d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September.

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Split In Your Pocket

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makarska riviera Baška Voda

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives) In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine. As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it‘s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići. Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!

Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town. With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children. There‘s plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on. Baška Voda‘s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the latter named the town Aronia. For tifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There‘s also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum. The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there‘s a large camp site.

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Ariving on the Makarska Riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away. The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you‘ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split. By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb (Prices are expected to rise by 15% as of 1 June). From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you‘re travelling at the weekend during peak season. By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com. By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www.hznet.hr.

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By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija.hr.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto-taxi.com. Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15. On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets. QJune - September Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00. October - May 31 Open 08:00 - 09:00, 11:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 18:30. Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) Ante Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel.

(+385-21) 61 23 33. There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 10kn per day per item. QThe car park is open 00:00 - 24:00 from 1 May to 1 October, otherwise 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Price: 7kn/h, you may park for 5 minutes free of charge.

Summer 2012

Makarska riviera

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives) However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel - just bring your own container! When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns. They‘re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica. Baška Voda Tourist Board Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+38521) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. QJune - June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Split In Your Pocket

Brela

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible. This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades. Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it‘s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges. You‘ll find maps and information at the information centre that‘s also located there. Brela Tourist Board Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, tz-brela@st.t-com.hr, www.brela. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

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makarska riviera Drvenik

29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It‘s peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous - it‘s a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it‘s best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St George in the old hillside settlement. Drvenik Tourist Board Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr. QOpen Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Gradac

When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we‘ve come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there‘s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you‘ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miosić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language. Gradac Tourist Board, info@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr., Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline,tel.(+38521) 69 73 75QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Makarska

As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above. There‘s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes, it‘s not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

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Makarska Tourist Board (Archives) The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays. Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar. There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun. The city‘s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today. Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town‘s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront you‘ll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip. The church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.

Summer 2012

Makarska riviera What‘s more, it‘s well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You‘ll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike. Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences. Makarska Tourist Board Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com.hr, www. makarska-info.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there‘s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a critically endangered species. Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks. There‘s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking. Živogošće - Now we‘re 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road. Podgora Tourist Board Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 62 55 60, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www. tz-podgora.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 14:00.

Tučepi

A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water. Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You‘ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings.

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Podgora

Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it‘s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain. With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer - it‘s second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It‘s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist‘s holy trinity. This is a laid-back resor t enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora‘s inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park. Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There‘s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a

The Turkish Caves You‘ve read a lot about the turbulent years of the Turkish invasions and the local‘s defence strategies. One particularly interesting example is the so-called “Turkish Caves” near Podpeći, near Tučepi. This is where people took their families and livestock to hide till the danger had passed. They‘re called turske peći in local dialect, peći meaning “caves”. And hence the name Tučepi! Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Split In Your Pocket

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makarska riviera Beaches The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonder ful beaches, some of which are several kilometres long. The beaches are usually shingle or pebble smoothed by the sea into rounded shapes which are comfortable to lie and walk on. The white beaches fringed by thick pine forests and the refreshing crystal clear waters are among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera. Here are some of the best of the beaches.

In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers‘ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi‘s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there‘s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St Anthony‘s day (Tučepi‘s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup. Tučepi Tourist Board Donji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00.

What to see Museums Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) Uz Kuk 6, Gradac,

tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com, w w w.museum-gradac.com. A pri vate museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also a fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There‘s a lovely collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic surroundings. Q June Open 09:00 - 20:00. July August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.

Makar ska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Obala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska,

tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradski-muzej-makarska@ st.htnet.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/makar ska/index.htm. Makarska‘s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse sand at the water‘s edge, making it ideal for children. It‘s backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon nap. This is the beach where you‘ll find the Rock of Brela sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked pines. As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort of Brela, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire. Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at Živogošće, so this beach is a great place to keep your cool and take a refreshing dip on even the hottest day. Nearby Hotel Nimfa is a good place to find something to eat and drink, and has tennis courts, an open-air swimming pool and other leisure facilities. Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist beach on the Makarska Riviera. It‘s located east of Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It‘s hidden by steep cliffs; to get to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine forest. This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the freedom of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just as nature intended. Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of small white pebbles stretches through the whole village of Mala Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for naturists. This is a spectacular spot where the mountains plunge right into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed shoreline. It‘s a great place to enjoy an evening stroll and watch the sun go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment on summer evenings. There‘s a small market where you can stock up on delicious, locally-grown fruit and vegetables. Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer more intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The beach is well equipped with toilets and showers, there‘s a lifeguard on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of shade is available in the pine forest behind the beach. Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open all night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for small vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the longest beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the most famous of the Makarska Riviera‘s shingle beaches. It‘s located just south of the little harbour. This is a scenic spot at the foot of the mountains. Pine and olive provide shade, and there are plenty of sports facilities. There‘s a small naturist beach a short distance away.

Summer 2012

Makarska riviera Sport With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23 km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There‘s also an 8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also climing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fastflowing Cetina river. And then, of course, there‘s the sea. You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will be unforgettable.

collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There‘s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. So, whether you‘re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there‘s sure to be something that will take your breath away. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) Ulica fra Filipa Grabovca

bb, Makarska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties. QOpen 08:30 13:00, 17:30 - 22:30. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Galleries The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) Ulica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1,

The Ar chaeological Museum Collection (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Blato 12, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, tonijurisic@net.hr. Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The nations that settled and passed through here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on display. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 5kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej)

Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@ makarska.hr. The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska‘s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska‘s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska‘s cultural life. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Srida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Baška Voda‘s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Franjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56. Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a

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Churches

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Church of Our Lady of Carmel (Crkva Gospe od

Karmela) Soline, Brela. The lovely old Church of Our Lady of Carmel is a votive church built to give thanks for the victory of Christian fighters against the Turks at Sinj in 1715, a battle that ensured freedom from Ottoman dominion for miles around. For this reason, the church was consecrated as Our Lady of Victory. The church stands in a wooded spot close to the shore, a simple, low-slung structure with a cross-shaped floor plan, a semicircular apse and a belltower with a low roof supported on eight column. Mass: Sun 09:00, 19:00, June Sun 19:00, July, August Sun 20:00. Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Crkva Gospe od Ružarija) Igrane, nr. Podgora. The slender bell tower

of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923 and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It‘s not unlike the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th century, the church has stained glass windows added in 2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists. Mass: Sun 11:00. Church of St Anthony of Padova Srida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51. The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962 quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area. It‘s built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway, plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the frontage. The church‘s ceiling is painted with images of the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padova, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave. Mass: Sun 11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 18:30

Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija)

Th e M akarska Riviera has a very close relationship with the hinterland and with Mount Biokovo - the hinterland and the coast simply can‘t function with out one another. Many of the dishes of the M a ka r s ka re gi o n have their roots in the hinterland. You can find excellent Biokovo cheese flavoured with fresh herbs freshly picked on the pristine hillsides. The cows and sheep reared in this region and whose milk is used to make the cheese spend their days in these idyllic - if precarious surroundings. One speciality of the region is kaštradina - a stew made with dried and smoked lamb, mutton or goat meat. Kaštradina comes from the cauldron of the Biokovo shepherd, whose wisdom inspired Greek philosophy”, says Veljko Barbieri, a famous Croatian food writer. Another speciality worth hunting down is the Biokovo peka - four kinds of meat (lamb, veal, goat meat and chicken) cooked under an iron lid heaped with embers. Then there‘s pašticada ; a Dalmatian classic - beef studded with bacon and garlic and stewed in red wine. If you come across a type of vegetable called motar you must try it - it‘s samphire, a plant that grows wild in coastal areas, including on the Osejava peninsula and on the islands. It can be mixed with any combination of wild spring vegetables such as chicory, dandelion, spinach, tender broccoli spears or collard green, and it is excellent served with octopus. Or try one of the fabulous big cabbages that grow in Biokovo gardens, often whipped up by locals into a tasty tomato-based stew. Finally, a wonderful delicacy from Brela is a special cake, sweet or savoury, called blitvenjak, made with chard (mangold). The sweet version is prepared with walnuts. The locals on the Makarska Riviera are extremely proud of their olive oil, which you can buy for about 80-100 kn per litre. The olive-growing tradition in Tučepi is so strong that they have built a monument to the olive mill on the waterfront, featuring millstones used in the oilmaking process. And finally, dessert. If you come across ravioli in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat consisting of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling. And Makarska‘s most famous cake is the Makarana: a harmonious blend of butter and eggs, lemon and orange peel, almonds, maraschino cherry liqueur and a couple of secret ingredients. You simply have to try it!

Obala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska. You‘ll find this little church and its belltower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront. Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that he‘d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed and the eerie organ music was never heard again.

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Makarska riviera Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika) Donje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18. At the end of the 19th century, a growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it‘s a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows. The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in Venice in 1825. Mass: Mon - Wed 08:00, Tue. Fri 19:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 11:00.

Monastery of the Holy Cross (Samostan sv. Križa)

Živogošće, nr. Podgora. A community of Franciscan monks arrived in Živogošće in 1563 following the destruction of their monastery in Herzegovina by the Turks. In 1620 they finished building their monastery and church just uphill from the beautiful seashore, by a source of fresh water. The Turks attacked again in 1647, sending the monks into hiding on Hvar island. They returned and rebuilt, improving the church and monastery and adding a bell tower. In 1967, when the population of the coast swelled after the big earthquake destroyed many homes in the hinterland, the monastery‘s Church of the Holy Cross became the parish church serving the population for miles around. Mass: 07:30, Sun 08:00, 10:00.

St George‘s Church (Crkva sv. Jure) Tučepi. This little treasure is a rare example of a well-preserved mediaeval chapel on the shores of the Makarska Riviera. It looks a bit lost as it‘s surrounded by l arge hotel buildings, but it‘s utterly endearing with its simple adornments and stone roof. It was built in 1311 on the site of an oratory attached to a Roman villa rustica, which was itself replaced by a mediaeval basilica and cemetery. This is an interesting archaeological site with the remains of the villa rustica and headstones around the chapel. One headstone bearing a portrait of its owner is unusually elderly, dating from the first century. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. St John‘s Church Gornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. Despite its unassuming looks, this little church in the mountain hamlet of Gornja Podaca is one of the most valuable examples of pre-Romanesque church architecture in Dalmatia. It was built in the 11th or 12th century thanks to an endowment by the Kačić family of local nobles. St Mark‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Trg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65. Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St Mark‘s Church marks Makarska‘s central square, the heart of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska‘s cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Split In Your Pocket

Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in Split, so nowadays St Mark‘s has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the development of the Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange. Mass: 07:00. 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 19:00. St Michael‘s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 88. A single-nave church built in 1852 on the site of a Roman-era settlement just uphill from the shore in the centre of Gradac. Its bell tower was added in 1962 and modernised in 2002. The Latin inscription above the door reads: “This temple consecrated to Saint Michael was built in the year of our Lord 1852 with the help of Franz Joseph I, Emperor and King, and the hard work and unity of the people of Gradac, for the administration of Josip Bilas, on land donated by the Šutić family.” St Michael‘s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Igrane, nr. Podgora. This is the oldest mediaeval church on the Makarska Riviera, built at the end of the 11th century or the beginning of the 12th century. It has a unique construction and is a protected cultural monument. High up in the foothills of the Biokovo mountains, for centuries this tiny church served the people who lived in the mountain settlements and it had the status of a parish church. It has a single-nave construction with a stone roof and a bell above the frontage.

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makarska riviera St Nicholas‘ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) Obala sv.

Nikole 73, Baška Voda. This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neoRomantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the belltower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel. Mass: 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00.

from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000 volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which, apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen Veža. QOpen by prior arrangement.

St Peter‘s Church St Peter‘s Peninsula, Makarska. This simple little church was built in the 15th century on the foundations of its forerunner from the 6th century. The church is sited on the forested St Peter‘s Peninsula, which protects Makarska‘s harbour. In front of the church and dotted round the peninsula you‘ll find the ruins of buildings dating back to Roman, Venetian and prehistoric times. The forest park and the view of the town and the mountains make it well worth enjoying a stroll here.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Franjevački put 1,

Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split. hr. The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big ear thquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. Mass: 07:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska‘s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Obala hrvatskih

rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr. Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 93 30, www.franjevci-split.hr. The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits of St Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions. A Franciscan community, itself displaced

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Makarska riviera Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Makarska. Široka ulica is

fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga - a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska‘s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns. Kostanić‘s Grave (Kostanića grob) Sela, nr. Drvenik. The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with ver y old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.

Monument to the To u r i s t ( S p o m e n i k turistu) Riva waterfront,

Makarska. Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it‘s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple takin g a stroll alon g th e waterfront. Look closely, and you‘ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it‘s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića)

Podgora. For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture. And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locall y-born priest (18311887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to self-determination of the Croatian people. There‘s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.

 Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket

Excursions Makarska is well located to act as a base for exploring the surrounding coastline, highlands and islands. In the hinterland you‘ll find towns and villages where time has stood still, full of history and folk culture. Within easy reach are the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula, each with its own identity and story. All along the Makarska Riviera tourist boats offer day trips to the islands, usually with a rustic fish dinner included in the price. An interesting place to explore is the delta of the River Neretva, 62km south of Makarska. This region‘s cuisine is based on freshwater food: you can sample frog and eel. Close by are the Bašćina Lakes, near to the town of Ploče. Though not large, they are geologically significant due to their setting in the karst landscape. There are seven lakes in all: Lake Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko jezero (“Shallow Lake”). Lake Vrbnik, the smallest, is the only one which isn‘t connected to any of the others. There is large number of endemic and protected species here, both plant and animal. Bathing is allowed: the lakes are on average 3°C warmer than the sea, making this a popular spot for bathing, rowing in traditional wooden boats called lađe, and surfing. The infamous pirate stronghold of Omiš lies at the mouth of the River Cetina, 37km north of Makarska. Further north still, Split, Solin and Trogir all feature UNESCO World Heritage sites. We also recommend Sinj, famous for its unique contest of equestrian and military prowess, the Sinjska Alka. Sinj is also home to a miraculous painting of Our Lady, making it a place of pilgrimage. Other interesting places in the Cetina region include the historic town of Trilj, which also offers plentiful opportunities for adventure sports. No visitor to the Makarska Riviera should leave without taking a trip into the Biokovo mountains. It‘s a half-hour drive to the highest peak, but with steep hairpin bends it‘s not a drive for the faint-hearted - anyone with a fear of heights would probably rather join an organised tour. On your way up you‘ll drive through centuries-old stone villages such as Gornji Tučepi. A meal in a rustic tavern here is a real treat. The Biokovo Nature Park has a botanical garden with numerous native and endemic species, and there are plenty of interesting biking and hiking trails in the area. On the south-east slopes of the Biokovo mountains, close to the border with Herzegovina, is the mediaeval town of Vrgorac. It is famous for its seven stone towers built during the times of the Turkish invasions. An essential destination for anyone looking to get acquainted with the folk customs of times past is Kokorići village. Here you can enjoy the restored stone buildings and learn about the traditional way of life in the region. Further north, also close to the Herzegovinian border is the mountain town of Imotski. Of particular interest here are the Red and Blue Lakes set deep into the mountains. They take on their colour from the surrounding rock. Finally, it‘s a pity not to take advantage of the chance to pop over to the islands. From Makarska you can hop on a ferry to Sumartin on the island of Brač. If you‘d like to go to Hvar, head south to the ferry port at Drvenik. Hvar and Brač are large, diverse and culturally rich islands - you‘re best off exploring them by car if you‘ve only a day to spare. But even if you just pop over to enjoy the slow island tempo for a day you surely won‘t regret is.

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makarska riviera mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, „Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples“. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn‘t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected. Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!

The Millstones Monument

Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda. Baška Voda‘s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer‘s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) St

Peter‘s Peninsula, Makarska. Watchin g protecti vel y over Makarska‘s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle. In case you‘re wondering, that key he‘s holding in his hand there is to Heaven‘s gate, so you might like to be on your best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu)) In front of the Tonoli Palace,

Makarska. Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace. Stone Tower (Kamena kula) Gornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It‘s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Trg fra Andrije Kačića-

Miošića, Makarska. Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it‘s no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska‘s central square. His statue‘s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument‘s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia‘s greatest sculptors. The coats-ofarms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries

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(Kameni mlin) Tučepi. Tučepi‘s oli ve oil press and oil-makers‘ a s s o cia ti on were foun d e d in 1911 and are still glowing wi th monounsa tura te d-st yl e h eal th today: Tučepi‘s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) Dugi rat Beach, Brela. A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela‘s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera‘s very identity. The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!

The Seagull‘s Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) Podgora. On a hillside high above Podgora‘s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull‘s Wing monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquar ters of the Partisans‘ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma)

Trg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska. A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark‘s Church featuring three lions‘ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača

obitelji Ivanišević) Lištun, Makarska. Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It‘s privately-owned and not open to the public. The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) Obala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska. The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska‘s Town Museum, and you‘ll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it‘s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front. Summer 2012

Makarska riviera The Biokovo Mountains

Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from the coast, the experience of being on the Makarska shoreline would be much less of a thrill. That view is just so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels like the shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses, the mountain has protected and sustained humans for millennia, so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia. Biokovo is not a single mountain but a range of mountains that stretches from just above Brela almost to Igrane in the south, about 25km, about half of the Makarska Riviera. It‘s part of a larger system of mountains called the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long range that stretches along the Adriatic from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the south. The Dinaric Alps, as you might guess, are which is itself part of that famous range so beloved of chocoholics. The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the time when this was a flat sea, before tectonic movements sent the earth skywards. Limestone is a soft rock that is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is known as karst and is well known for having fascinating formations including caves and sinkholes where rivers dive underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti Jure, is 1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due to its geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity, almost all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park. It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including endemic and endangered species. The best known is the Silvery Dwarf Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries the slopes of Biokovo provided a home to people seeking shelter from enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea. In the 20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is a historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the

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Makarska Tourist Board (Archives) smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist. So, while you‘re on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you, don‘t be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea. Take a trip into the Biokovo mountains - you‘ll be astonished by how much there is to see there. Apart from anything else, the views over the coast and islands are astonishing. The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force. Presentation centres: Podgora Selo - Stara Škola (the old school building) Exhibition of photographs of the park, at the moment open only for organised groups by prior arrangement by phone: phone (+385-21) 62 61 36. Gornja Brela Presentation Centre Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, QOpen to visitors Mon-Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun 09:00-02:00. Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of Kotišina Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. QOpen Mon-Sat 07:00-02:00, Sun 08:00-13:00. The Kotišina Botanical Garden This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (19201990), and is part of an educational trail he also created. Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a heavy fall of rain. There‘s a 17th century fortress, a protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony‘s (20th C). Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly demanding walk.

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split dalmatia county Castles of Split Dalmatia County Visitors to the Split region shouldn‘t just restrict themselves to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles. Given the region‘s turbulent history - including centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians - it‘s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape. One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There‘s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and color ful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela“ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored. Trogir‘s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town‘s lovely architecture. If you go 21km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked. Ask at the town‘s tourist office first and they‘ll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top of

Klis Fortress

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Jelsa Mirabela‘s tower keep there‘s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It‘s believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt. Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500m above the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail, which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure to go straight (don‘t turn right) when you reach the fork in the road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and embrasures are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a major tourist center. It‘s a shame that most visitors never venture beyond the beach. From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it‘s still worth checking out Zadvarje‘s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat, the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon. Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might develop.

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Adriatic Photo Service Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer cliffs tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably first used for defensive purposes by the Romans. Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950. From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn‘t until 1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski. On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 - 20 minutes.

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There‘s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle. Only 10km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak above the village. First mentioned in written records from the 12th century, it‘s hard to imagine how it could have been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope. About 80km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina. It‘s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a hill above the village. It‘s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić family built Čačvina in 1371. The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina‘s remoteness is one of its charms. The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is Sinj, which is only 20km northwest of Čačvina or 34km north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During the century before and for several centuries after the birth of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area. Sinj‘s fortifications are first found in written records in about the year 950. It‘s believed the exsiting fortress was built in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna known as the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many restaurants. About 15km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30km long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10km you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to Satrić.

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After 5.3km you will see a pink house on the right and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot. Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging the sources for the castle‘s water wells, thereby cutting off the defendents‘ water supply, were they able to capture it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika. Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at

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the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica and Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a 20 - 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle. The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995. The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 - 30 minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior. For details please see the article about Brač activities in this issue of In Your Pocket.

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Islands Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. The island‘s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day‘s catch, which is then prepared for the evening‘s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island‘s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there‘s something for everyone.

summer, especially with younger people. It‘s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you‘d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač‘s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip‘s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules. Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what‘s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač‘s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don‘t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle‘s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca‘s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic‘s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumar tin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest. If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia‘s m o s t fa m o u s b e a c h , Z l a t n i R a t (G o l d e n Cape). It‘s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the

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Catacombes, Sutivan, Brač Island

Summer 2012

split dalmatia county You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terri fic. I f you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It‘s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. If you are going to be on Brač for a week there‘s much more you Ivan Rendić, La Pieta can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agrotourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It‘s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer‘s dream. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They‘re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn‘t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you‘re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you‘re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns. Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it‘s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you‘ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen‘s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it‘s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres. Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga. Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

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split dalmatia county Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration. Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today‘s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan). Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries. The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you‘ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you‘ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they‘re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C.

Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‚‘Little Venice‘‘ due to it‘s small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You‘ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you‘d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you‘ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali‘ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala.

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On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island‘s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side. The island‘s mountains aren‘t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker‘s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving. Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša‘ and ‘Drenkuša‘ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali‘ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac‘ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Summer 2012

split dalmatia county

Vis

Caught by the In Your Pocket team!

The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it‘s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija‘ (Our Lady‘s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn‘t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience! It‘s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let‘s not forget the island‘s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.

Surroundings Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally emptying into the Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has become known as „the Omiš Riviera“. However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of

Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don‘t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito‘s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC.

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split dalmatia county pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called „arrows“, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river. While it‘s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there‘s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. And when you‘re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and it‘s history, the town‘s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Solin

The First Communion, Omiš

Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity‘s early history. According to the Bible, Paul‘s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town‘s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of „Croatia‘s Pompeii“. Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you‘re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

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Trogir

Adriatic Photo Service

Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir‘s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian towns, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the town finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

Adriatic Photo Service While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city‘s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke‘s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir‘s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the town‘s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia‘s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

Summer 2012

Index Aci Grašo 22 Adria 21 Adriana 18 Adriana 22 Agroresort Bračka Perla 20 Apetit 22 Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) 30 Art 17 Art&čok 23 As 18 Atrium 17 Bellevue 18 Bifora 27 Biševo 21 Bistro Black Cat 22 Bluesun Hotel Borak 20 Boban 22 Bobis-Riva 24 Bota Šare 23 Caffe Gallery Ave 26 Cardo 22 City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) 30 Consul 18 Croatia 20 Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) 30 Dalmina 17 Delta 23 Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) 28 Dujam 18 Duje 22 Element bar 27 Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) 31 Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) 30 Favola 26 Fife 23

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Fish Market (Ribarnica) 28 Gaga 26 Galerija 24 Galija 24 Ghetto 27 Globo 17 Green Market (Pazar) 28 Grgur Ninski 33 Gušt 24 Hemingway 27 Hvaranin 24 Il posto 22 Issa 21 Jugo 23 Jungla 27 Kadena 22 Kalafatić 26 Kantun Paulina 23 Kavana Procaffe 26 Kibela 24 Kocka 27 Kod Joze 24 Konoba Leut 24 Konoba Varoš 25 Kuća sladoleda Carmen 24 La Maison de Sarah 24 Le Meridien 21 Le Monde 23 Lučica 25 Lvxor 26 Makrovega 25 Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) 28 Marmont 17 Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) 33 Maslina 24 Mc Donald‘s 23 Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštelet 31 More 18

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) 31 Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) 34 Noštromo 23 O‘Hara 27 Obojena Svjetlost 27 Oštarija u Viđakovi 25 Palača Dešković 20 Park 17 Pašike 21 Pastura 20 Peristil 18 Pimpinella 25 Po Bota 26 Poljud Stadium 34 Posejdon 23 President 17 Prokurative (Trg Republike) 33 Puls2 27 Red room 27 Riva 28 Riva 21 Rizzo 23 Saint Dominic‘s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) 32 San Antonio 21 Šetač 26 Silver Central 20 Silver Gate 20 Slavija 18 Šperun 25 Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) 32 Split Hostel Booze and Snooze 20 St Riva 27 Stelon 23 Teak caffe 26

Teraca Bamba 26 Terra Antika 25 The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) 32 The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) 32 The Church of Saint Martin (Golden gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) 32 The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) 32 The Palace 21 The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) 30 The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) 33 The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) 32 Tonik Juicy Bar 26 Tradicija 24 Vanilla 27 Veli Varoš 32 Velo misto No 1 24 Vestibul Palace 17 Vidilica 26 Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) 34 Waterman Svpetrvs Resort 20 Žbirac 26 Zlatna ribica 25 Zlatna vrata 24 Zoološki vrt 34 Zrno zdravog života 25

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Street register IN

Vrlika

Peručko j.

EB GR

1251

Solin

Čaporice

Bisko

A IC N

Klis

Grab

Trilj

EŠ

779

Kaštela

Dugopolje

1011

Otok Gardun

KOZJAK Trogir

Dicmo

Lećevica

675 Boraja

Z R AG ZA IJE RE DA KA B R

Sinj

D. Muć

A eti

A Hrvace

N NI

Rijeka Zagreb

1508 Svilaja

G AV

NO L LIVOMIS T

D. Seget

tin a Cista Provo S 1319 O Stobreč Lovreć Sv. Jure Donji Proložac R ČIOVO SPLIT Podstrana DRVENIK MALI Šestanovac Prološko blato Dugi Rat V. Drvenik S p l i t s k i k a n a l Krivodol Cetina Imotski Omiš TR DRVENIK VELI B Kamenmost r a č Rogač IES Zmijavci k i Nečujam TE Supetar Postira k a n ,R Zagvozd Stomorska a l IJE Maslinica Grohote Sutivan Brela KA 1762 Baška Voda Sv. Jure Pučišća Milna Povlja Nerežišća Makarska RA Selca Sumartin A H v a Tučepi SC

Marina

Slatine

D. Okrug G.

ŠOLTA

MEĐUGO

RJE

BRAČ

it pl S

J A D R A N S K O

Hvar Palmižana

CO NA AN

Gradac

VIS

NIK

Sućuraj

ŠĆEDRO

še

LUKAVCI

Jelsa

Vrgorac

KAMIK

Vis

HVAR

Podgora Igrane Živogošće Drvenik

K NI OV

Komiža

M O R E

kanal

BR DU

Viški

a n a l

Stari Grad Vrboska

r s k Bol i k

BIŠEVO

PALAGRUŽA

A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2, H-2 Babina C-3, H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2 Ban Berislavićeva C-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2, J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2, K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1 Bjelovarska E-2

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Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2, K-1 Borčićeva C-3, H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3, H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2, J-1 Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3

Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3, H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2

Franje Račkog D-2, K-1 Gajeva C-2, H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3, K-2 Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1 Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2, H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3, K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1 Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3

Summer 2012

Street register

Adriatic photo service Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2, I-1 Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3, K-3 Kliška D-2 Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2 Kninska D-2, I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1

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Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1, K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2, J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3 Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2, F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3, H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2, H-1 Matošića D-2, I-2 Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2 Mišina F-2 Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3, K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3, I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1 Nelipćeva D-3, I-2

Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3, I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3, K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3 Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3, H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2, H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2, H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3, K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1 Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2, I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2, H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3, J-3 Radunica D-3, J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3, H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3, H-2 Severova D-3, J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2, J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2, J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3, H-3 Spinčićeva E-3

Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3, J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1 Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2, I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3 Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3, H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3, H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3, J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1 Washingtonova D-2, K-1 Zadarska G-1, I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3 Zoranićeva D-2, I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3

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Summer 2012