Split In Your Pocket No10

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split Summer 2016

Island hideaways

The coast’s best-kept secrets

Dry Stone Wall

Centuries old stone walls N°10 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Vintage Split And Its Outskirts

Golden oldies caught on cam

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Arrival & Getting Around

Sightseeing

40

Discover what we 've uncovered 6

Dalmatian Zagora 46

SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here

Run to the hills

City Basics 10

Dry Stone Wall 48

Keepn it real

Traditional form of construction

Croatia’s Secret Islands

11

Escape the crowds

Culture & Events

14

A pick 'n' list to brighten your stay

Split Pulse

Split Surroundings Makarska Riviera

21

Leisure Treasure some leisure

Restaurants 23 We give you the bread 'n' butter of where to eat

Shopping

Local Flavour

Hotels

34

Treat yourself or be treated

70 71

Priceless places and buys 77

The true meaning of “do not disturb” 36

Maps

38

City map City centre map County map

“How's that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife

61

All in a day

Piping hot tips

Coffee & Cakes

49

The top getaways

78-80 81 82

Are you ready to party?

Be introduced to some traditional ways of life from Dalmatian Zagora, see page 46, Photo by Dusina Ante Barbir, Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Summer 2016

3

Foreword Split is a summer hit with thousands of tourists flocking to this Adriatic seaside city.@InYourPocket In recent years, the awakening of newly opened restaurants, wine bars, events, exhibits, concerts and open air festivals have reinvigorated these ancient city walls. Speaking of open air festivals, ‘Ultra’ is set to smash all records with world class DJs hallowing electronic stages vine.co/inyourpocket for an entire week. Browse through our guide and within Split Pulse discover what ‘Splićani’(locals) value as they give away city secrets that only they know. The Restaurants section takes you on a culinary journey of top notch places to wine and dine. You’ll see black and white photos that reminisce to a different time and we’ve prepared a special on ancient stone walls and traditional dry-wall construction which dominates Mediterranean architecture today. See our youtube.com/inyourpocket interview with Croatian writer Olja Savičević Ivančević and of course don’t forget the Shopping category with artistic gifts for you and your family. Affordable Art too! A notable mention goes to Split’s surroundings and the breath-taking pinterest.com/inyourpocket islands that ought to win you over with their untouched natural beauty. We wish you a super sizzler summer!

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split contents online: COverFull story Summer 2016

??city??.inyourpocket.com Bačvice between two World Wars, by Julije Mosettig. The photographs were taken during the summertime between More reviews online: the two World ??chapter??

Wars. The photos show how people spent their time on Split’s ??city??.inyourpocket.com most famous beach Bačvice enjoying life, friendships and love, more than eighty years ago.

N°10 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Dry Stone Wall

Centuries old stone walls

Vintage Split And Its Outskirts Golden oldies caught on cam

Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić What’s going on?

Split Infacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Where’s the party?

Editor Višnja Arambašić facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Roman Simić Bodrožić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Community Manager Eli Gajinov All the latest news Design Bojan - Haron Markičević facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Julije Mosettig, Bačvice Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov zagreb@inyourpocket.com CopyrightRead notice more reviews online: Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop??city??.inyourpocket.com yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. brand name In Your Pocket is used NotThelisted here? under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) Inonline: Your Pocket Overtel.250 ??chapter?? reviews is not responsible for any information which might change after ??city??.inyourpocket.com publication.

Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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4 Split In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. June 3rd July 1st Open 04:15 - 23:59. July 2nd - September 5th Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.

QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@ krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00. J

Photo

by Višnja Split Tourist BoardArambašić Archives

By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn.

Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest.

6 Split In Your Pocket

MSC Krstarenja SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja. com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Split Tours Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and HvarAncona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).

QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. A

By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station. split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma‑ goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

By plane Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.

Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, 8 Split In Your Pocket

upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.

Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn oneway; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, informacije@split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.

Brač Airport Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer.

The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer.QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www. airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 20:00.

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at 21:43, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, informacije@hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr. split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre QD‑3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Tourist Information Centre QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com.

Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Public transport Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses.

There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.

Taxi

Promet Split QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@ promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease or move your car.

Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 750 - 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office is open around the clock.Qtel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.

Fishermen from Milna

The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price.

However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Bathers on the beach Banj in Supetar

The foundation “ISLAND BRAČ - somewhere between the sea and the stars” Archives

Promet Split QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, info@ promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Summer 2016

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City Basics Customs

Smoking

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50€.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

10 Split In Your Pocket

Visas Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

QR Code This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/ split for Split In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

Photo by Marša Gajinov

split.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands

Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.

Susak Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.

In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.

Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment.

Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring.

Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to restore fertility.

Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the more intriguing Croatian islands!

Silba With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love back home.

Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija UjevićGaletović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.

Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.

Prvić Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.

Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the coast. Among the children who have been lucky to spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci.

A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum.

Šolta Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More Summer 2016

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Croatia’s Secret Islands recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina (www.martinis-marchi.com).

Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts. Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.

The Elafiti Islands The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.

Koločep The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!

Lopud For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants.

Gifts for Hungry Loved Ones One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what better gift for those back home than something to nibble?

Ground Wild Fennel The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-) 91 588 84 09, marica.marasovic@gmail.com.

Grisinia A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.

Olive Leaf Tea Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.

The Captain’s Cookies Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries.

Contact: mantunovic87@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77 Marija Antunović.

Šipan

Pag and Brač Island Cheese Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands.

Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Brač, aktiva.brac@gmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, (+385-) 91 594 52 79.

The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service. Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.

Lumblija Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, iskravlasich@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.

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split.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands Krk Island Pršut To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is a product that varies depending on the environment and the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+38551) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).

Salt Petals Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr Macaroni Needles One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).

Deck Your Home With Croatian Goods Wool Slippers from Cres Island Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, cres.ruta@gmail.com, www. ruta-cres.hr.

Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, grad-pag@zd.tcom.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

www.martinis-marchi.com

defying expectations

Heritage hotel - Restaurant - Marina - Yacht charter

Lipa Rugs A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor.

Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, lipa1@windowslive.com. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.

Stone Pestle and Mortar Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 907 04 68, drazenjaksic40@gmail.com, also in Split in the basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre of Korčula town.

Kunjska spara A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and still do) carry on their heads on their return home from the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, marija.grdas@zd.htnet.hr.

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Culture & Events

Boris Bućan (Croatian Academic photographer, painter and graphic designer), 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split, 1983, Screen print, MSU Archives

Exhibitions 26.04 Tuesday - 26.09 Monday The Iron People on Wooden Ships This exhibition was opened on the 150th anniversary of the Battle of Vis, marking one of the most significant battles in the Adriatic Sea and is deeply etched in the memory of Croats. In July 1866, an Italian fleet led by Admiral Carlo Pellion attacked Vis, hoping to win this important strategic point; the heroism of the then Austrian fleet mostly filled with Croats defeated their better armed opponents. The exhibit details the true heroes of the battle, how it reawakened a sense of Croatian identity, original artefacts and more.QIssa Archaeological Collection, Viški boj 12, Vis; Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www.hpms.hr.

05.05 Thursday - 31.08 Wednesday Ship logbooks and documents from the holdings of the Croatian Maritime Museum Set sail and see valuable marine documentary material and original printed ship manuscripts; log books and diaries which are among the Museum’s oldest manuscripts, and ship documents - lists of crews, books of supplies, 14 Split In Your Pocket

privileges, certificates and more. The contents will vary (paintings, books, charts, ship models, marine items, uniforms...) and date from the 18th to 20th century.QK‑2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www.hpms.hr.

17.05 Tuesday - 17.06 Friday Julião Sarmento - As Good As It Gets A much sought after artist who will present his works at three venues and all at the same time. Sarmento deliberates his themes via different media in the form of fine art, sculpture, video and photos, fusing literature and cinema.

The clichéd title of the exhibit is in direct contrast to the visual elements shown on screen with the ‘body’ used as a primary subject.QKula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10; The Institute for Scientific and Artistic Work in Split, Palača Milesi, Trg braće Radić 7; Museum of Fine Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www.galerija-kula.hr.

16.06 Thursday - 01.07 Friday Vedran Ivanković – Pillars of Croatian Society Take a look at Croatian society from the perspective of Vedran Ivanković with his humour and cynicism. He critiques and questions, he outlines distorted values and split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events at times points out the absurdity of today; and as for the viewer, a chance to compare and reflect.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

amenities made for man; a highly debated issue in our world today.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr.

20.06 Monday - 01.07 Friday Tihomir Matijević - Transheroica or Sculptor Seeks a Hero Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No it’s a group of Croatian politicians adorned in superhero like outfits ready to always save the nation from eventual threat.

Matijević created these 4 impressive statues up to 6 metres high and won an award at the 11th Croatian Sculpture Triennial, 2012. Head to the Diocletian Palace’s Cellars for some superhero irony and action!QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr.

14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday Đuro Seder - Retrospective exhibition Six decades of commitment to art and to painting in particular, Seder is known for his brush dynamism and energy colours. He used expressionism and symbolism with both extraordinary freedom and clarity, utilising his experience that went beyond the limitations of the medium. Split also has the right and obligation to learn more about his exceptional art work.QD‑3, The Institute for Scientific and Artistic Work in Split, Palača Milesi, Trg braće Radić 7, www.galerija-kula.hr.

JULY - SEPTEMBER Artists at Meštrović - Kažimir Hraste The cycle of artists at the Meštrović Gallery continues with sculptor Kažimir Hraste. He is one of the founders of the Art Academy in Split and has taken part in over 100 exhibitions. Hraste is the author of numerous public monuments, busts and sculptures around Croatia and has received several national awards.

Inspired by the call to be exhibited alongside Meštrović’s works, see this special part of his opus, worth every notice!QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr.

01.07 Friday - 10.08 Wednesday Dan Pjerovschi - The Split Drawing This Romanian artist gathers inspiration on site by touring a city, interviewing its people, exploring mainstream media, city buildings, installations, and combines these to form the core of his artwork. Work that he deems as intellectual graffiti, almost cartoonish / art-brut, yet drawings with an artistic message and tendency for humour.QJ‑2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava Papaya 10, www.galerija-kula.hr.

04.07 Monday - 18.07 Monday Halbart Vilim - Flying Boats Halbart presents a cycle of surreal sculptures with a focus on ship building, a once known golden treasure in Croatia and now viewed as a dying trade, a tradition that capitalism has scrunched and thrown into the sea, an identity once proud, now fallen.

Most evident in his work is the recycling, transformation and reinterpretation of discarded materials from shipyards.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL 10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film 2016 Film for avid fans, film with high demands! This festival promotes new, creative, personal, experimental, radical and subversive works, styles and genres, commonly produced outside the commercialised mainstream, but of excellent standard and achievement. It highly promotes Croatian film but also gives strong regard to international feature and short film, paying attention to directors who explore the aesthetic potential of film.

According to track record, several producers and directors who have appeared here in the past and were lesser known have gone onto bigger and brighter things. A stepping stone to glory! Two international juries will be given the arduous task of choosing the winners.

Retrospectives, workshops, lectures, latest features in newmedia and presentations by leading experts always add value and a new dimension to visitors and presenters alike. 2016 is the 21st edition of the event, the oldest international film and media manifestation in Croatia as such. It’s a great meeting point to network with people in the industry and to form future projects and relations. The event will be held across three city venues.QKaraman Cinema, Ilićev prolaz 3; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijan‑ ova 7; Bačvice Cinema, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, www.splitfilmfestival.hr.

04.07 Monday - 15.07 Friday Nicolo Sertorio - Once We Were Here An international exhibition by this American artist and photographer set in the Diocletian Cellars. Sertorio, who is of Italian origin, reveals his photographs which speak of the relationship of man with nature and urban facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Culture & Events 01.08 Monday - 12.08 Friday HDLU Osijek - The Edge of Painting or Border Areas In August 2016, HDLU Osijek will introduce to the Split audience their multimedia project in which their artists explore the concept of experimental art and thus abolish the conventional boundaries between painting and new media through installations, objects, paintings and various forms of new media itself.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr.

Special events Esma Redžepova, A Sustipan Night’s Dream Archives

Ultra Europe Archives

03.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday Split Mediterranean Film Festival For nine year straight, this festival of full-length and short film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider that screenings take place on the beach with the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket!QBačvice Summer Cinema (Preradovićevo šetalište 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Diok‑ lecijanova 7) and Split Art Gallery (Ulica kralja Tomislava 15), www.fmfs.hr.

17.06 Friday - 17.07 Sunday Revija Urbane Kulture – Evo Ruke!

During the peak season and for one entire month, head to Đardin at the Strossmayerov perivoj for a sense of urban music and culture. From pop and hip-hop to jazz and other genres, a plethora of top Croatian musicians and performers will deliver their melancholy / hypnotic / bumpy /groovy sounds and feel to the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin Strossmayer Park, www.revija-urbane-kulture.com.

Starts at 21:00 daily.

20.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Tuesday Vanja Pagar - Noveslike Academic painter Vanja Pagar will present his project ‘Noveslike’. In this cycle, the artist’s view of easel painting can be seen, this time in the form of abstract expressionism. Pagar investigates and nullifies the boundaries of classical fine art and new media through multimedia installations, objects and actions.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

05.07 Tuesday - 06.07 Wednesday A Sustipan Night’s Dream Sustipan Park will for the fifth year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism with Esma Redžepova and The Frajle.

QC‑3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Concerts start at 21:30.

22.07 Friday - 05.08 Friday Friends of the Sea – The Blue Hour For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been selected by the expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.Qwww. prijateljimora.com.

14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday The 62nd Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad.

QVarious locations across Split, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.

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14.07 Thursday - 20.07 Wednesday Ultra Europe Festival Ohh yeah! The mighty summer dance spectacle just gets bigger and bigger with a week of music to party to all night split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events long. It actually starts on the 14th with the Opening Party and of course the three day main event is at Split’s Poljud Stadium, things don’t stop there with after party events.

Yep, it’s island hopping with the ‘Ultra Regatta’ on the island of Brač on the 18th, then the ‘Ultra Beach Party’ on the island of Hvar on the 19th, and the ‘Ultra Resistance Closing Party’ on the island of Vis on the 20th.QC‑1/2, Giraffe Palm Beach House, Poljud Stadium (Resis‑ tance Opening Party and 3 days of Festival); Zlatni Rat Beach, Bol, Brač (Ultra Regatta); Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort, Hvar (Ultra Beach); Fort George, Vis (Resistance Closing Party), www.ultraeurope.com.

Tickets 225 - 1500kn.

21.07 Thursday - 23.07 Saturday Split Blues Festival Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this genre. As always, the event has a high level of production and attracts some of the best Croatian and international musicians. Free admission!QD‑3, Riva, www. splitbluesfestival.com.

27.07 Wednesday Iron Maiden – The Book of Souls Metal mania hits Split again this summer with one of the legends of British Metal appearing in Croatia for the umpteenth time. Their legion of fans will always be in good voice as the mighty Bruce Dickinson pounds out hits from their new album and of course classics. A surprise is prepared for visual effects, only 11,000 tickets available and will be snapped up ASAP!QC‑1, Spaladium Arena, Zrins‑ ko Frankopanska 211, www.spaladiumarena.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 290 - 430kn.

04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday Split Beach Festival If last year’s edition is anything to go by, than this is one bop till you drop spectacular music event. Organisers have announced new even better musical surprises of electronic music and related genres for 2016, and when the sun dawns and the starry sky above Split’s Bačvice Beach begins to shine, everyone is sure to find their ideal act to watch and party to.QD‑3, Bačvice Beach, www. splitbeachfestival.com.

County events 23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday Cultural Festival Imena/Bol If on the island of Brač and in the town of Bol in particular, pronounced as ‘bawl’, then become a true ‘Bročanin or Bročanka’ by attending ‘brunch’ or bolska marenda Trudna Teća followed by literary promotions, exhibitions, debates and concerts. A driving force of the event is the success of the book ‘Bračka marenda’ which is a gastro-cultural guide of the island written in both Croatian and English.QBol, Brač island, www.facebook.com/ ImenaBol. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

25.06 Saturday 6th Ethno Festival The town of Marina is 11km from Trogir, and in its northern village of Blizna Donja the townsfolk put on a show of ethno culture, music and heritage.

See the beauty of local costume that trace back to old times in which people still wear today on special occasions, folklore songs and dances, and ojkanje which is an ancient form of singing which now placed on the UNESCO heritage list. It isn’t yodelling, but men who repeat specific sounds...QBlizna Donja, Marina, www.tz-marina.hr.

22.07 Friday - 24.07 Sunday Owl Festival Brand new to the summer calendar, welcome to Šolta, an island known for its ‘owl’ species which fittingly titles the festival! Only 30 min by catamaran from Split, this 3 day event is a combo of electronic underground house music and natural island beauty. It’s in a bay called Stomorska and includes beach bar Africa and party boat St. Damian (120 capacity). Transportation and accommodation is all organised for you!QŠolta, www.owlfestivalcro.com. Tickets 90 - 350kn.

22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday S.A.R.S. – Sinj Amateur Rock Meetup The old town of Sinj in the Dalmatian hinterland is the setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia.

Due to its popularity, it has grown into something much bigger with popular mainstream Croatian acts also performing. Side sparkles include book nights, film screenings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay tuned for line up details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

Kinoteka Zlatna vrata 04.07 Monday - 30.07 Saturday This isn’t your everyday cinema; ‘Zlatna vrata’ or ‘Golden Door’ is one of the most beautiful cinemas in Croatia which is housed in the heart of the historical core of Split. The month of July offers guests a deeper insight into Croatian film with some of the best productions made over the last few years that have had both national and international success. All films have English subtitles and the exact schedule can be found at web site.

Films: The Priest’s Children, 2013, Vinko Brešan, 93 min The High Sun, 2015, Dalibor Matanić, 123 min What is a Man without a Moustache? 2005, Hrvoje Hribar, 109 min These Are the Rules, 2014, Ognjen Sviličić, 72 min Gangster of Love, 2013, Nebojša Slijepčević, 75 minQJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 15 24, info@zlatnavrata.hr, www.zlatnavrata.hr.

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Culture & Events 07.08 Sunday Sinjska Alka The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

07.08 Sunday - 11.08 Thursday The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela, www. kastela-info.hr.

Beaa de Visser Blowup, Split Film Festival Archives

22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday World Music Festival Ethnoambient Salona The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local.

This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Pučki pivači Gospe od Otoka, Lidija Bajuk Quartet, Seckou Keita, Cinkuši, Dunja Knebl and Kololira, Tamara Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble and Kries.QGradina, Solin, www.ethnoambient.net.

31.07 Sunday Delmates vs Romans Football Match The idea of a football match between the Delmates (Illyrians) and the Romans is based on historical facts related to the tombstone of Gaius Laberius. It promotes the theory about the origins of football in this area and is in fact a theatrical performance of comic character, played by invented rules which are inspired by the spirit of ancient times. QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday Voi’Sa Festival ‘Get down, get down and move it all around’ to some soul, boogie, and hip hop music. Featuring DJ Vadim accompanied by DJ The Reflex, Eddy Ramich, Tomo Ricov, Jakir’s, Banana Zvuk and many more this party should not be missed.

QSupetar, Brač, www.voisafestival.com. Afternoon programme 15:00 - 21:00, evening programme 22:00 05:00. Tickets 60 - 160kn.

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09.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Sunday Goran Jeličić We can only speak in superlatives when it comes to Jeličić’s love for his birthplace Split; so much so that his paintings, drawing, graphics, photography and mosaics are almost entirely inspired by the Mediterranean and distinctive coastal vistas of cities including Trogir and Dubrovnik. His works have won awards and are permanent in some public spaces.

QAtrium of Trogir City Museum, Gradska vrata 4, Trogir, www.muzejgradatrogira.blogspot.hr.

10.08 Wednesday - 11.08 Thursday Šakan Festival Named after a famous rock in the town of Brela and pronounced as ‘shakan’, the festival is a magnet for lovers of music with local and international artists performing close to the sea in an idyllic setting. So far the repertoire includes the Lovely Quinces, Sara Renar, JR August, Igor Duraković, Giant Sand, Mort, Spiridon, Cloud 68 and there’s more to come.QPlateau in front of Hotel Soline, Brela.

11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday Brač Film Festival As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international film festival which consists of a main and side programme.

The main programme displays feature-length and short films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public.

QSupetar, www.bracfilmfestival.hr.

11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday Moondance Festival Reach to the sky, see the sea, the starry night and dance under the moonlight. Welcome to the 4th edition of this grand electronic music festival, headliners include Jeff Mills, Josh Wink, John Heckle and The Story Tellers.QKamerlengo Fortress, Trogir, www.moondancefest.com. split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Olja Savičević Ivančević, Photo by Andrija Zelmanovic

Split’s literature scene An interview with Olja Savičević Ivančević

by Roman Simić Bodrožić The world of literature has always had its fair share of greats both present and past and in this modern age, there has never been more of a need for great literature and material that grasps the reader. IYP proudly introduces you to a star, and we aren’t talking show biz, but rather a star in literature. Olja Savičević Ivančević (OSI) is a shining light in contemporary Croatian literature at present, and judging by articles published in the Irish Times, the Guardian or DieZeitu... her books have been noted not only in Croatia but by the international literary audience. This lady from Split (born 1974), an award-winning poet and novelist, who with her novel ‘Adios, Cowboy’, which is an offset spaghetti Western perched in the wild and set around Split’s surroundings, has won both recognition and awards with this powerful story of Dalmatia that many are not aware of (and could certainly not learn of whilst being on holiday).

Roman: For starters, in your first novel, you freed Dalmatia of a fair portion of its general landmarks; some would even say that you freed it of something that people love most about Split and why they would even visit it at all. What was it like to wrestle the truth of so many songs, tourist guides and so many stereotypes, some of which, as usual, are accurate?

Olja: I hope that I somewhat evoked that beauty that truly exists, yet I also described the hidden side of the facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

story. I believe that there are enough people from foreign countries around who are interested in learning how people live here.

Roman: Why a Western, and in particular why a spaghetti Western? True, the path has been paved by the cameramen of the already mythical German series about Winnetou which was recorded decades ago, but you have shown that a Western style life has always existed in Dalmatia and is very much still alive today.

Olja: In fact, the wild south-east does exist here, and Westerns as a genre have imposed themselves quite naturally on their own. Spaghetti westerns or Italo-westerns are a Mediterranean product with films that were mostly recorded in Spain and primarily by Italians. There is also a sub-genre of the classic spaghetti Western which is called the Eastern, and they were recorded in countries of Eastern Europe. They were an important part of my childhood and I played around following the rules of the genre whilst writing a contemporary story of Dalmatia, a story primarily about women and about lost childhood heroes.

Roman: The place where your novel is set is located only twenty kilometres from Split yet appears to be thousands of light years away from the city, as if it were an island. But what of the real islands? You wrote about them also, as in the recently awarded piece for children - you are happy whilst dwelling on them, exploring them. They are some kind of periphSummer 2016

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Culture & Events erals where life is totally different and far from the idyllic life when they are not right before our eyes?

Olja: The place that I described is partly invented, and partly inspired by Kašteli, Vranjice... these are places in the vicinity of Split, which in some way, at least in their old towns, are still reminiscent of the island towns.

I fell in love with the islands through sailing as I have sailed from a young age, sailing has been my doorway to seeing most of the bays in the Adriatic Sea. A desire to return again and again to these places and discover the new ones is one of my most enduring and powerful emotional experiences, whilst in winter I dream about sailing. I have a small boat that is also my home and adventure at sea.

Roman: Which one of our islands do you feel to be yours and why?

Olja: Korčula is my island as I know it very well and I am connected to Korčula through my family ties. It is there that I spend my summers, but I also visit in winter and I know the harsher side of the island, its solitude and isolation. That is what I wrote about.

Roman: Your new novel which is coming out soon touches on your central topic, the city of Split. What kind of a city is Split? How would you describe it to a foreigner?

Olja: The new novel ‘Singer in the Night’ describes one specific part of Split, the settlement of large buildings and skyscrapers that were built in socialism. It was an attempt to make urban city planning tailored to fit the people, to respect public space that nowadays no longer exists. That part of Split has not yet been touched by the raging transitional capitalism that poses as a threat to them. I think districts such as Split 3, Trstenik, Mertojak, Spinut and others in today’s time are urban centres of the city. I am not saying this because I feel some nostalgia, I was not raised in those districts, but one must learn from such kind of urban planning for it shows concern and love for the city, which is opposite to the grapples that prevail today.

Photo Club Split When a picture says a thousand words, when a photographer catches a moment in time that leaves a lasting memory, this is the entire purpose of Split’s Photo Club. People passionate about photography, playing with it, manipulating, exploring… Opened in 1911 and has since stood the test of time. This summer will bring together several well-known Croatian photographer’s on a monthly basis; In June, Fjodor Klarić presents his exhibit ‘Hajduk Supporters – The twelfth player’, July sees Stephan Lupino exemplify his all-round passion for photography whilst Goran Leš gives us a birds eye view of Split and the Adriatic.QI‑2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@fotoklubsplit.hr, www. fotoklubsplit.hr. Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

20 Split In Your Pocket

CINEMAS Cineplexx City Center one Split QF‑2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, www. cineplexx.hr.

CineStar QD‑2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.

Karaman QI‑2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www. ekran.hr.

Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice) QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August.

Roman: My impression as an occasional visitor to Split is that it has greatly changed in recent years, even more so than other Dalmatian towns. You live in Split: is this observation true? And if so, what it is like now? What are the pros and cons?

Olja: Split has become a favoured tourist destination. On the plus side the city is much more stylish and neater.

The minus is that because of the building of new apartments, the old parts of the city are dying and the true appeal of Split lies exactly in the authenticity of everyday life. This is a city of common folk and by losing the traces of its ordinary life, it will lose its best part and that is what makes it more interesting to tourists than other cities.

Roman: Which three places in Split mean the most to Olja, the writer?

Olja: Marjan and Spinut where I live - my boat is also in the small Spinut harbour; it’s the folk, the fishermen’s ‘old districts’ of Matejuška and Varoš since I used to pass through them every day for fifteen years and they remind me of all those small towns that people like; the market and fish market - the tastes, the smell, the loudness, the bustle, the dynamics of it all.

Roman: I know you love to travel, but how do you travel? Which means of transportation do you use, which books do you read, with whom and where do you travel?

Olja: I like to travel by boat or car, so I have freedom of movement whenever needed and in whatever direction I choose to go.

Most often I travel with my family or other writers (when we go to festivals). I also love big cities and as I am getting older, I am becoming increasingly attracted to exploring nature, drifting away from the large residential areas. It is interesting that whilst at home I more often read poetry and short fiction, whereas whilst traveling and especially on board, I love to read big novels, and endless stories. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Pulse

We asked locals - who live or work in Split - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Dvor Archives

Daniel Grbić Financial Manager at Affidea Company SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Daniel: Recently it’s been “Dvor”. It’s a newly opened cafe-restaurant at a beautiful location in Firule bay. It’s a great place to have fun drinking a cup of coffee or enjoying any traditional specialties. I prefer drinking my coffee before noon when during the calming morning you can feel the relaxed atmosphere of the Mediterranean.

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?

Daniel: Definitely the southern side of Marjan. Near St. Jerome’s church built in the second half of the 15th century is a hermitage cave where St. Jerome is supposed to have stayed. It’s peaceful, quiet, it has a view of the entire Brač channel, and along with plenty of fragrant mediterranean plants, you get the feeling you’re in a secluded little paradise and not merely one kilometre from the bustle of the city.

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Daniel: Split is a city of contrasts and extremes — it’s a city where everything is allowed and everything is possible. Here, the streets and squares have retained their true purpose and people loudly and openly show their true feelings. Split is a Mediterranean city as it should be: noisy, direct, witty, sardonic, lilt and playful. The city is best acquainted through its people. A walk filled with curiosity facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

and openness starting from the early morning vegetable market on the Riva, then along to Marmont street and up to the fish market, gives you an image of Split like it really is. Also, you should definitely go see a football match played by the local club, “Hajduk”. The club represents the city so much more than any foreigner can imagine. Locals don’t cheer for the club, they live for the club.

A walk through Marjan or any number of activities you can do in the sea: water polo, swimming, sailing…

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop?

Daniel: I’m not the kind of guy who likes shopping. I buy things when necessary from a shopping mall where you have everything in one place. City Centar One? Sure.

SIYP: What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Daniel: There are three things that Split is known for: Diocletian’s palace with St. Duje’s cathedral, Marjan, and Hajduk. You can’t go wrong if you get something representing one of the three things I just mentioned.

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Daniel: Grilled fish seasoned with olive oil. After that…

Dalmatian pašticada which is a silverside of beef covered in various spices and prepared in red wine. It’s clearly one of the best meat dishes available in Split. Dalmatian prosciutto and cheese is also a must. Fritters made from homemade dough, brandy, raisins, and cooked in hot oil. Also, paradižet a desert made with biscuits and egg whites. Soparnik a local specialty from the Omiš hinterland, made from pastry, swiss chard and garlic.

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Split Pulse Team 4coffee soul food Dado Rimac, Vojko Markić, Joni Ulla and Nikola Besednik

NoStress Bistro Archives

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Team 4coffee soul food: We are not very objective when it comes to that question, because we are very much tied to our specialty coffees which we roast ourselves. Therefore, we prefer to make some coffee with our chemex filter and drink it somewhere in nature.

And as far as going out at night, the starting point is Academia club Ghetto. They have an excellent evening program featuring local DJ’s and a hypnotizing interior.

The people who go there always have good vibes and positive energy.

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?

Team 4coffee soul food: We love active holidays and activities that bring us together with nature. For that, I must mention the Turkish tower park, which recently got a new look thanks to volunteers from Split.

There’s lots to do there for those who like being active.

Also Šantine is great for free-climbing. Sustipan is an excellent place for a picnic, especially if you’re there with the members of KAM HRAM, who do acrobatic performances on silk ropes as well as juggling.

Soparnik, Dugi Rat Tourist Board Archives

Dinko Božanić Senior Assistant at the Split Academy of Art (UMAS) in the Film department, author of the exhibition ‘Forgotten Faces of Komiža’, for more see page 58 SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Dinko: Coffee at Vjeko’s on the Riva and Judino Drvo for going out.

S​ IYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?

Dinko: Marjan.

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Dinko: Walking.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Dinko: Diocletian’s palace cellars - handmade fish made out of wood or metal by Ivan Bogdanović Goli.

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Dinko: Various local chocolates from Nadalina.

22 Split In Your Pocket

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Team 4coffee soul food: Along with the growth of tourism, the number of tourist agencies that offer topquality tours of the city of Split has also grown. We would gladly entrust anyone in their capable hands, because as locals we had the opportunity to take a tour of the city with a guide and we were surprised with all the new information and history that we had missed.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split for someone to take home?

Team 4coffee soul food: If you’re going to spend your money, spend it wisely. The small specialized shops inside Diocletian’s palace sell unique handmade products by talented artists and craftsmen.

They spread love and positive energy by keeping quality and customer satisfaction in first place!

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Team 4coffee soul food: The always fresh selection of fish at Konoba Matejuška, and Barba beer at Split’s craft brewery LAB.

twitter.com/ inyourpocket split.inyourpocket.com

Split Pulse Restaurants

Konoba Ma:Toni Archives

One of the best things in life for many are the places where you can drink and eat well. Diocletian’s City has finally woken up in gastronomy. All those who favor iće & piće have the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns.

Croatian Bajamonti Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.

Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate each of the tables based on the season and they also hold various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@ gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (75 350kn). P­i ­T­J­A­G­B­X­W Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.

Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts such as tiramisu and maraskina, made with cream chocolate and maraschino cherry liqueur.QE‑3, Put facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13, dvor.split@gmail.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).

P­i ­T­A­6­G­B­X­W Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22, grego.levante012@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn). P­J­6­N­G­B­W Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, info@ma-toni.com, www.ma-toni. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­ G­B­W Pikulece For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as musSummer 2016

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Restaurants sels, octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com, www.uje.hr.

Open 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G­ B­W Trattoria Tinel Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course.QH‑2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, tinelsplit@net.hr, www.trattoria-tinel.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W

ethnic Biser Orijenta Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QD‑2, Bihaćka 2a, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76, www.biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30- 24:00.

(25 - 125kn). P­A­6­B­X­W Bistro Samurai Conveniently situated in the city centre and just across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, one can expect the complete Japanese experience in food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, otomako@hotmail.com, www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). P­A­G­W Kebap & Meze bar Istah East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turkish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified!

Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turkish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini terrace.QC‑1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40, info@istah.hr, www.istah.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (26 - 59kn). P­N­G­B­X­W 24 Split In Your Pocket

Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com, www. uje.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (60 120kn). P­i ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B­W Villa Spiza Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh homemade food that is prepared right in front of you.

This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal fresh ingredients.QI‑2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 12 49, ivanagamulin@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). P­T­J ­6­N ­G­ B­W

International Aci Grašo With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the ACI Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos.

Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC‑3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 250kn). P­A ­G ­B­W Adriana This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.com/restaurant/. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 160kn). P­i ­J ­A ­G ­B­W Apetit Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI‑2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetit-split.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). P­J ­A ­6 ­G ­X ­W split.inyourpocket.com

“Pr o TRG kur REP ati UBL ve ” IKE

Restaurants

“Riv a”

fish restaurant SEA FOOD | CROATIAN WINES | MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

Trg Republike 1, Split bajamonti.split@gmail.com www.restoran-bajamonti.hr

Augubio Congo Hidden in a beautiful courtyard inside the Diocletian’s Palace, the ethos behind this restaurant is creative flair with seasonal ingredients. Pasta is always popular as is seafood and steak. Care is taken with service and presentation. On top of all that, the interior has an elegant blend of ancient roman ruins decked with modern furniture.QJ‑2, Diokleci‑ janova 1, tel. (+385-) 099 323 96 71, augubio@gmail.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (110 - 260kn).

Bistro Mazzgoon Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80, info@mazzgoon.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 150kn).

P­i ­A­6­E­G­X­W Bistro Toć Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ‑3/K‑3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, bistrotoc@yahoo.com, www. bistrotoc.com. Open 07:00 - 23:30. (50 - 130kn). P­i­ A­G­B­X­S­W Boban The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well.QE‑3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, info@restaurant-boban.com, www. restaurant-boban.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

P­A­6­G­B­X­W Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77, hello@bokeria.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (100 - 200kn). P­i ­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Summer 2016

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Restaurants Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic Sea, French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create some delicious dishes throughout the day. Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, omelette, your typical English style breakfast, and muesli with apple and yoghurt. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and octopus salad, mussels, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Catch of the Day are just some of the appetising Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 33, brasserieon7@gmail.com, www.brasserieon7.com.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. (40 - 200kn). P­i ­T­J­A­6­ G­B­X­W Cardo A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotelatrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). P­i ­A­ G­B­X­W Duje This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.

QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, mail@ restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­L­E­G­B­X­W Kadena Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer.QE‑3, Ivana pl.

Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com.

Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (120 - 170kn).

P­A­6­E­G­B­X­W Marshal Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, try a delicious slice of cheesecake or rožata.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+38521) 30 80 60, booking@marmonthotel.com, www. marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (100 - 150kn). P­i ­A­6­L­G­B­X­W 26 Split In Your Pocket

NoStress Bistro Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino.

Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, nostress.bistro@gmail.com, www. bistro-nostress.com/. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 220kn). i­J­ A­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W Paradigma This modern restaurant, which features Mediterranean dishes, offers contemporary Dalmatian cuisine made with a flair. By using local flavours mixed with fresh ingredients inspired from Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain, they have revolutionized gastronomy in Split. They offer exquisitely presented seashells, fish and meat with seasonal vegetables. Sip from a bottle of local or international wine from a Connoisseur’s List of the finest high-quality old and new world wines while overlooking the crystal blue waters and savouring a delicious meal from their private rooftop created in the shape of a cruise ship’s bow. A simple and calm environment decorated in soft blue tones creates a relaxing atmosphere to dine in. They are striving for a Michelin star and are a proud member of Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe.QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03, paradigma@paradox.hr, www. restoranparadigma.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (95 - 220kn).

P­T­J­A­G­B­W Perivoj Looking for a little oasis inside a very busy city, then Restaurant Perivoj is a great escape and even has a fountain and garden to treasure. Their desserts are city famous and the range of entrees and mains are well thought out; beef, lamb, octopus, Dalmatian paella, brioche with anchovies and more. The wine selection is vast with friendly service to top it off. Enjoy Perivoj! QD-2, Slavićeva 44, tel.(+385-21) 78 58 75, perivoj.split@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00 (68 - 160kn) P­i ­A ­E ­G­B ­X­W Zinfandel’s food & wine bar According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel. split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

(+385-21) 35 51 35, zinfandelsplit@gmail.com, www. zinfandelfoodandwinebar.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (120 - 160kn). P­i ­J­A­6­E­G­ B­X­W Zrno soli This restaurant has class written all over it. It is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round!QC‑2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli. split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.eu. Open 08:00 01:00. (80-120kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W

Seafood Mistral Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks. The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-split. Open 12:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200kn). T­A­ 6­L ­B ­X ­W facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@ restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P­6­N­G­B­W Posejdon Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace,

bakery Kruščić Are you picky about bread? Then just above the fish market sits a bread shop which serves baked bread without additives. They are also famous for replicating a type of Roman bread made of wheat, goat cheese and honey.QI‑2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-) 099 261 23 45, zkruscic@gmail.com. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. J­N Summer 2016

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Restaurants when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI‑2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49, www.restoranposejdon.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 200kn). P­i ­J­A­6­G­B­W

selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portionsQI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (43 - 150kn).

P­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X­W

Stellon Stellon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine.

The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer!QD‑3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 92 00, davor_stellon@net.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (70 - 120kn). P­i ­A­6­L­G­B­W

Gušt You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ‑1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33, kontakt@pizzeria-gust.hr, www.pizzeriagust.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 57kn).

P­A ­6 ­G­W

Pizza Galija The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide

Lučica Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QB‑2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63, fax (+385-21) 38 67 59, info@ restoranlucica.com, www.restoranlucica.com. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B­ X­W Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88, konmaslina@net.hr, www.konobapizzeriamaslina. hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 150kn). P­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B­W Velo misto No 1 Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre thespians.QC‑2, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77, velomistono1@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­V­ G­B ­X ­W

Marenda

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

28 Split In Your Pocket

If you end up at some tavern and if you see that at one of the tables sits a group that at the same moment are talking loudly and are chewing a mouthful of delicious food, do not be afraid - they are only eating marenda! Marenda has always taken place somewhere between ten o’clock in the morning and noon. By 10:00 - 12:00, the working class would have starved a hundred times, and when this hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this meal from tripe and pašta fažol (Dalmatian beans with pasta), to polpeta u šugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra usuvo (spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and fried sardines and even veal shank. split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.

QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23, buffetfife@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (45 - 65kn).

P­i ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Hvaranin To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 150kn). P­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Jugo Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.QC‑3, Uvala Bal‑ uni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00, restoran.jugo@gmail. com, www.restoranjugo.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 120kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­L ­E ­G­ B­W Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P­A ­6­ G­B ­W Konoba Leut This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.

QH‑2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W Summer 2016

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Restaurants Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/ (+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn).

P­A­6­G­B­X­W Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladeno‑ va 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros. com, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 120kn). P­A­G­B­W Oštarija u Viđakovi With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliter‑ na 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27, www. ostarijauvidjakovi.eu. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

P­i ­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Pimpinella A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more.QE‑3, Spinčićeva 2a,

fast food Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right.

There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73.

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 35kn).

P­N­G­B­W Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www. rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. (8 - 20kn). N­B­W tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@ pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (48 - 70kn). P­i ­A­6­G­B­X­W Šperun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.QH‑2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62, damabanovic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (35 180kn). P­i ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Zlatna ribica Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00 - 22:00. (35 - 60kn). P­N ­G ­W

Street Food The street food restaurant’s priority is that the food tastes good and some dishes are made using local products.

They offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and vegetables to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but not least, you can eat a meal that is not that expensive.

NoStress Bistro Archives

30 Split In Your Pocket

Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming fast food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with omelettes, top notch English breakfast, croissants served with sweet side dishes, and various burgers and sandwiches to choose from between 07:00 - 11:30 in the mornsplit.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ing. Thereafter, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish & chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelettes. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a delicious piece of pie. The green wooden tables and chairs, surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor terrace, give an earthy green peace feel to the place.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, bepasplit1@gmail. com, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. (40 - 200kn). P­i ­T­J­A­6­G­B­W Corto Maltese Freestyle Food Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/ (+385-) 092 160 10 00, info@cortomaltese.rocks, www. cortomaltese.rocks. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).

P­i ­T­J­A­6­E­G­B­X­W La Regina del Formaggio A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croatian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses, as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40 12, jelaska4@hotmail.com, www.reginadelformaggio. com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn). P­i ­T­J­A­ G­B­X­W Toto’s Burger Bar A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; the meat and veggies are exclusively purchased from local family farms. Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu! Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of oatmeal/muesli & yoghurt cups, truffles as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+38521) 31 40 40, totos.burger.bar@gmail.com. Open 07:30 - 24:00. (12 - 57kn). P­i ­6­N­S­W

Vegetarian Galerija Food Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 939 54 18, galerijabarfood@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (70 - 220kn). P­i ­A­6­G­B­W Summer 2016

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Restaurants Makrovega If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg… you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic.QI‑2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, makrovega108@gmail.com, www.makrovega.hr.

Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 60kn). P­i ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Up Café An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www. upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

(15 - 45kn). P­i ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W

Out of town Baletna škola Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.

Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kam‑ belovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04 14, info@restoran-baletnaskola.com, www.restoranbaletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn).

P­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Konoba Bajso Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant is only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

32 Split In Your Pocket

wine bar Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines. Representing the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They also have been mentioned in numerous national and international publications for their highquality products and service.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@ paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (75 - 110kn). P­J ­A­ 6­E ­G ­B ­X ­W by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby islands. All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed down generation to generation, and served with the best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars.

Service is warm and you don’t feel like another number, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Je‑ senice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, antetomas57@ gmail.com, www.bajso.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn). A­L ­B ­W Konoba Nikola A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+38521) 32 62 35, sanjanikola.alo@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). P­T­ A­6 ­L ­G ­X ­W Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioška Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant and wine bar edges its competition by far with outstanding Croatian and international dishes including sea food, meat and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair and precision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable and the wine list is per se excellence! The entire dining experience is sure to be remembered…QObala Sv. Nikole 91, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, info@ hoteli-baskavoda.hr, www.hoteli-baskavoda.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (65 - 550kn). A­L ­B ­W

www.inyourpocket.com split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Zrno Soli R E STAU R A N T

Healthy Mediterranean cuisine presented in a modern way

Uvala Baluni 8 (ACI marine), Split T + 385 21 399 333 M +385 91 434 30 50 E-mail: zrnosoli.split@gmail.com www.zrnosoli.eu Facebook: Zrno.Soli.Split Instagram: zrnosoli, be_julija

Free transfer from the city to the restaurant

Sweet delicacies No.1 by Julija facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Walking distance Old City - Zrno Soli: Summer 2016 33 15 minutes

Local Flavour

Bolska marenda or brunch in Bol, Brač Island. Trudna Teća Archives, for more see page 17.

food markets When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (Pesh kah ria).

Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas. All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses, 34 Split In Your Pocket

homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva. You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket, they’re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants. split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Local Dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market. Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split region.

What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild.

Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious.

A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Lamb, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Foodie’s Guide 01.06 WEDNESDAY - 30.09 FRIDAY Kopačina Lamb Festival Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table - it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač island, www.konoba-kopacina.com.

END OF JULY The Soparnik Festival Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat between Split and Omiš for the 12th edition of this mouthwatering experience. This pie made of mangold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned between two layers of the simplest dough. Dating since the Turkish invasions in Croatia, this is such a popular dish that it has earned its own festival, and has been registered Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recently.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr.

16.08 TUESDAY Hrapačuša Night The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake.

Some may point out that Hrapačuša is only made on Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. Her Hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with good reason. Try Barica’s award-winning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night.QDol, Brač island.

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Coffee & Cakes the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting.QD‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. P­J ­A­ B­X ­W Favola A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it.

It’s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow!QI‑2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48, konoba-favola.com/o-nama/. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

P­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W FRO (ISPRID BANKE) Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small interior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00.­B ­W

4coffee soul food Archives

4coffee soul food The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful!

Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals reverberate here as the beans that are used and served send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 091 523 94 65, 4coffee.sf@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. W Aktuell With its super equipped interior, modern design and relaxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed when visiting Split. Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast throughout summer. Large LCD screens provide the perfect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD‑3, Mile Gojsalića 1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 07:00 - 24:00. i­6­ N­B­X­W Ćakula Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from 36 Split In Your Pocket

Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-) 095 197 16 56, caffebargalerijasplit@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­J ­6­N ­G ­B ­X­W HOK Kavana and Gallery Café meets bar meets mini nightclub in the later hours is how best to describe this kavana. Lots of events are held here especially with artists who often have their work showcased and launched to an audience. Musical theme nights are also a catch with rock to pop to retro among the most popular. Come by day or night, you’re bound to catch a cool drink and a good vibe.QD‑2, Kavanjinova 11, tel. (+385-) 092 236 03 24. Open 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. B­W Kalafatić If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach.QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09/(+38521) 38 91 01, kalafatic.fullbusiness.com. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P­6 ­G­B ­X­W split.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Kavana Figa Right from the Voćni trg, in the narrow passage you’ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior.

The cool exterior and décor is adjoined by the varied offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads to pasta and fish, and all at value for money. As the day goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cocktails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI‑2, Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@ gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B­ X­W Kavana Procaffe A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) 38 43 23, info@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Libar ‘Libar’ in local dialect means ‘a book’ and though this isn’t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W Lvxor A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.

QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@ lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Šetač The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar’s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb, nina. pavlovic@st.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­B ­X ­W facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Teak caffe Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 10, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.

P­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@ gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:30- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. P­N­G­B­X­W

Small Plates & Sweet Treats Goluzarije Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh?

Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12.

Kuća kolača Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach!QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30, kuca.kolaca@gmail.com. Open 08:00 20:30. Closed Sun. N­G ­W Luka Ice-cream & Cakes Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 594 95 52, passionforfood.st@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. P­J ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­W Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70, kirigin.m@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. P­N ­S Summer 2016

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Nightlife During the summer months the nightlife in Split is not only rich and vibrant on the weekends but throughout the week as well. It must be said that due to the countless open-air concerts, festivals, bars and restaurants, spending time with friends and hanging out in the city is done mostly outdoors.

A night out typically begins with a drink on the Riva — the main seaside promenade in front of the old town — or at one of the many popular wine bars which have opened up in recent years. A popular meeting and drinking place for the younger boisterous crowd is at Matejuška — a stone pier jutting out into the sea located less than half way from the old palace walls to the city marina. The night moves on from here and people begin to gravitate towards the many bars tucked inside the walls of the old Roman palace among the tiny labyrinthine streets. Truth be told, the majority of the bars are often very small; with space inside at a premium, crowds prefer to gather in front of the bars themselves. Accommodating bar owners often place benches or cushions outside for people to sit on. This phenomenon is most prevalent along the narrow streets of Get, located less than 100 meters from the seaside promenade, where bars are stacked one next to another up a zigzagging staircase. With people sitting and mingling on the stairs, the flow of people — though not unpleasantly — slows to a crawl. This is the ideal place to truly experience the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere that’s typical of Split and its people. If, after all this you’re still in the mood for exploring, the early morning hours is when the nightclubs located outside the palace walls come to life.

Bars Caffe bar Fluid Get ready to take in some fluids at the café with the same name, for one thing the cocktails and rakija (grappa) are pretty darn good & cheap with lots of flavours to choose from. The café is quite small and there are tables and seats along the steps outside. Live DJs at weekends!QI‑2, Dosud 1, tel. (+385-) 095 670 00 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.

Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub Welcome to Split’s ‘new kid on the block’, a sensational new pub that is a gem upon entry. Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ’n’ new and the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes on weekends and you can stay all night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71, fabriquepub@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

P­A­G­B­X­W Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. P­N­B­X­W 38 Split In Your Pocket

Ghetto Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ‑2, Dosud 10, koracat@ gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­E­N­B­ X­W La Bodega Split With chills and thrills, La Bodega is a stunning wine bar that is comfortable enough to sit and relax, and when the numbers increase, people can choose to stay in or drink outside.

A cosmopolitan/mature crowd gather with live bands performing on certain nights. Tops for warm up drinks or park yourself and stay the entire night.QI‑2, Mihovilova širina 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 44, rezervacije@labodega.hr, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­A­E­G­ B­X­W Moon bar Having opened last year, Moon Bar has become a hit amongst ‘Spličani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99, gdd@st.tcom.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. P­A­ L­E­G­B­X­W ST Riva Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narod‑ nog preporoda 18, info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­ G­B­W To Je To Located in Old Town Split, come on in and rave like a Roman at the bar with one of the largest selections of Croatian Craft Beers as well as homemade rakija (local grappa) on offer.

Hand roasted coffee available too. Live music is often on the agenda and there is seating available outside for those scintillating hot nights. Btw ‘To je To’ means ‘That is That’ in English, and that’s that!QI‑2, Nigerova ulica 2, tojetocaffe@ gmail.com, www.tojetosplit.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P­6­ E­B­W

Clubs Hedonist Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract split.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music genres so prepare to dance the night away.QE‑3, Put Firula 53, tel. (+385-) 091 901 09 63, z_plenkovic40@yahoo.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­A­B­X­W Hemingway Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsolls won’t even make it past the door. This is Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC‑2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, elvis.k@net.hr, www. hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00.

P­A­G­B­X­W Judino Drvo Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse this is the perfect place for a new club, as it’s located away from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from the ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and dingy space. Their program offers music nights, filled with performances by a variety of singers, as well as theatre and film nights.QE‑1, Kopilica 24, antonia.kuzmanic@gmail. com, www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00.

P­J­A­U­L­E­G­W O’Hara Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere.

A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail. com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 05:00. Closed Sun. P­A­B­X­W Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor.QC‑2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 169 00 00, sandro.jelavic@ hotmail.com, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­A­G­B­X­W

casino platinum Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside underground garage, money exchange office, bar lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+38521) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00. P­G­X­W Summer 2016

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Sightseeing Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Photo by Marša Gajinov

essenTIAL SPLIT Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex - The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J‑2.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the 40 Split In Your Pocket

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side.

It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.

Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona.

After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2. split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrin‑ sko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@ armus.hr, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. September - May 31st Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografski-muzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografskimuzej-split.hr. June - September 15th Open 09:30 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. September 16th - May 31st Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior ar‑ rangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.

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Sightseeing Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud) Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fan base around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team’s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to cheer’), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as bili, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform. Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was declared as a protected cultural monument of the Republic of Croatia.

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16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30 Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoil‑ days. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family.

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+38521) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, muzej@mhas-split.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Museum of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience.

Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomis‑ lava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@ galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, June 15th - September 15th Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn Children, 40 - 60kn Adults.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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Sightseeing

Bačvice beach 1936, Photo by Julije Mosettig

their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-

A MASTER OF LIGHTNING This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe.

The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe. With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen.

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st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. June - September 30th Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953).

Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@ galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June - September 30th Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Churches Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.

The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull

by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass Sun: 08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, zupa@samostan-poljud.com, www. samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Landmarks Grgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took

AQUARIUM SPLIT The largest aquarium in Croatia is located in Split!

With over 130 different fish species, including freshwater fish, turtles and crocodiles, it’s a treat to visit with your family or friends. They have a total of 22 aquariums containing various characteristic fish species from the Adriatic Sea, such as sharks, lobsters, muraena and many more.QObala pomoraca, Vran‑ jic, tel. (+385-21) 24 71 15, info@aquariumsplit. com, www.aquariumsplit.com. Open 10:00 22:00, June and September Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Tickets 50 - 75kn. Children under 4 free. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

a – m– e – w–

Bribirska 10, 21000 Split +385 98 701 903 info@galerijajaksic.com www.galerijajaksic.com

place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

Prokurative (Trg Republike) Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neoRenaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.QI‑2, Trg Republike.

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Dalmatian Zagora vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly sought-after. There’s also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple. What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

Ten must-visit places The annual carnival processions Mačkara, Photo by Boris Filipovic Grcic, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) - but also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture. The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheep-rearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although the term conveys a positive sense of hardy self-reliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland.

Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it’s also an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth. The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’ legs from Trilj. As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with 46 Split In Your Pocket

Drniš A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.

Imotski If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.

Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.

Knin A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww.tz-knin.hr.

Krka National Park With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.

Sinj A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracle-working icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The split.inyourpocket.com

Dalmatian Zagora riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.Qwww.visitsinj.com.

Skradin Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.

Qwww.skradin.hr.

The Cetina Gorge Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.Qwww.tzomis.hr.

Vrgorac Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and military captains to serve as both living space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone

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houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethnovillage complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.

Vrlika Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park. The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.Qwww.visitvrlika.com.

Zagvozd Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences. Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.

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Dry Stone Wall

Bavljenac - The whole island is covered in dry stone walls, Photo by Boris Kačan

A dry stone wall, fence or suhozid is a structure made of natural stone without the use of a binding material such as mortar. The construction of dry stone walls, and other structures made without mortar, demand special skills and traditions handed down over generations. They are a significant part of the cultural heritage of the greater Mediterranean area stretching back to ancient times.

In prehistoric times when neolithic farming took hold in the European hinterland, former cave-dwelling people built their homes, fences and animal shelters using wood. Meanwhile, in southern Europe and along the Mediterranean, wood was in large part difficult to find, and due to frequent droughts and resulting wildfires, wooden structures were also impractical. Different building techniques developed in these areas which took advantage of the plentiful stone harvested from the rocky terrain. It was in this way that dry stone construction began to shape Dalmatia and the structures which dominate the area even today. In addition to walls, the technique was used to build small dwellings; fences encircling vineyards, arable land and pastures; and in the construction of wells. The Premužić trail, a 57 kilometre-long path cutting through the highest peaks of northern and central Velebit, is yet another famous example of mortarless architecture. Further advantages of this type of construction is that they protect against soil erosion and serve as shelter for various plants and animals; including, lizards, snakes, frogs, bees and insects. Dry wall construction is a reflection of the diligent and often hard life of the locals who collected the stones from the environment to use in the myriad structures. But by doing so, agricultural land and living space for animals would be cleaned of cumbersome stone. When building any dry stone structure, it is of extreme importance to select the proper stones and 48 Split In Your Pocket

have them interlock accordingly to ensure durability and stability.

When we talk about dry stone constructed shelters in Croatia, our attention must be turned to the kažun in Istria, the komarda in the Kvarner region, bunja in Dalmatia and trim on the island of Hvar. These circular-shaped huts and their conical or stepped roofs were originally used as dwellings for people, but later shifted their purpose to house agricultural tools, farm equipment, and ultimately as emergency shelters for shepherds to take refuge from a passing storm.

If you wish to see examples of dry stone walls in the city of Split, look no further than Marjan park. The city’s forested park is intertwined with a network of mortarless walls and fences that cover nearly the entire surface of the park. It is also possible to run into examples of the circular field houses typical of Dalmatia mentioned earlier.

In order to preserve and maintain this traditional form of construction, the Dragodid project was launched. Dry stone workshops are organized whereby participants can learn traditional building techniques. If anyone is interested in participating in one of the workshops, information can be found on their website or FB page: www.dragodid.org.

The Dry Stone Workshop The peak seasons for dry stone construction in Dalmatia are the spring and fall. Construction subsides slighly during the summer because the days are too hot. The dry stone workshop which is traditionally held on the first day of the Lav‑ ender Festival in Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar - this year falls on Friday June 24th. For information regarding the autumn workshops, please follow the Dragodid website and Facebook page. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured area.

Novo mesto - Brač, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Marina Tourist Board QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, info@tzmarina.hr, www.tz-marina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Orson Welles filmed “The Merchant of Venice” in Trogir in 1969.

Jean Marais during the filming of the romantic-adventure film “Goubbiah, mon amour.”

More information about the film history of Trogir can be found at: www.trogirtimetravel.blogspot.hr. Look under Trogir Time Travel Kamera! (atr) Akcija!

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Split Surroundings today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

Trogir Tourist Board QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, tzgtrogira@st.t-com.hr, www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Čiovo Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center

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of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts.

After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great music, for a fun night out.

Okrug Tourist Board QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21) 88 73 11, tzo.okrug@st.t-com.hr, www.tzo-okrug.hr.

Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00.

Kaštela Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilć). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of

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Split Surroundings particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

Kaštela Tourist Information Centre QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+38521) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, info@kastela-info.hr, www.kastela-info.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.

Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Solin Tourist Board QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, tz@solininfo.com, www.solin-info.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Split Surroundings sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 motorway. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café right below the fortress.

Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely.

Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

Klis Tourist Board QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, tzo-klis@email.tcom.hr, www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

South of Split Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing,

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white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle and face some of the islands.

Podstrana Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split.

It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town.

The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods. Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments. podstrana Tourist Board QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@ tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:00 21:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.

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Split Surroundings

Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different story to tell.

Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

The Vranjača cave The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals.

The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over. The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information.

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Split Surroundings for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.

The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. Šolta Tourist Board QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57, solta@solta.hr, www.visitsolta.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people.

It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.

Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what’s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and 54 Split In Your Pocket

the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic.If you are going to be on Brač for a week there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers.

You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer’s dream.

There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, info@supetar.hr, www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

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Split Surroundings Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form.

On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley.

On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace 56 Split In Your Pocket

made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness.

Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini. On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

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Split Surroundings

Franceska Zambarlin Cambarlinova (1900 – 1988), Forgotten Faces of Komiža “Forgotten Faces of Komiža” For Easter 2010, Dinko Božanić organized an interactive exhibition of 40 selected photographs titled “Forgotten Faces of Komiža” at Komiža’s public reading room. Next to each photo was a pencil and piece of paper where the exhibition visitors wrote everything they knew about the faces in the photographs. In addition to basic information, such as name and surname, they could also write other facts: address, profession, hobbies, anecdotes with which they remember them by…

Grohote old part, Šolta Tourist Board Archives

Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).

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Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.

The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.

Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Stari Grad Tourist Board QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63, tzg-stari-grad@st.t-com.hr, www.stari-grad-faros.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty.

The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abansplit.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

don and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.

One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.

Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form.

Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is.

And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.

Vis Tourist Board QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@ st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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OMIŠ Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish intia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century. until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churchknown as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and innot always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava) into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica. still plenty of adventure to be had And when you’re finished exploring in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s eas around the town make for great history, the town’s central location Trg kneza Miroslava b.b., hiking spots, the water is an invitmakes it a perfect starting point for tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, ing crystalline blue and the history the rest of your Dalmatian coast of the town can be explored in the adventure, hopefully minus any info@visitomis.hr remnants of fortresses (like Mirabedreams of terrorizing the seas as a www.visitomis.hr la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

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Makarska Riviera

Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism.

If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea.

Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.

This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local wine.

Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe.

In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine.

As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.

Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region.

Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!

Baška Voda Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.

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Makarska Riviera Arriving on the Makarska Riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away. The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. For timetable information, see www. split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway, take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway.

Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www.hznet.hr.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www. jadrolinija.hr.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn per hour per item.QAnte Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto-taxi.com.

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tels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children. There’s plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on.

Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the latter named the town Aronia.

Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.

The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!

When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns.

They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica.

QBaška Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible.

This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades.

Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there.

QBrela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous - it’s a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it’s best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St. George in the old hillside settlement.

QDrvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+38521) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr.

Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Gradac When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St. Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St. Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language.

QGradac Tourist Information Centre, Trg Soline 11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Gradac Tourist Board, gradac@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr.

Makarska As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.

There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Squid, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays.

Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.

There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.

The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today.

Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St. Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront Summer 2016

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Makarska Riviera you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St. Philip.

The church of St. Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.

What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You’ll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike.

Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.

QMakarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com. hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:30 - 22:00.

Podgora Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain.

With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer - it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It’s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist’s holy trinity.

This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.

Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a critically endangered species.

Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks. There’s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking.

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sport With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There’s also an 8km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fast-flowing Cetina river. And then, of course, there’s the sea. You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will be unforgettable. Živogošće - Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava.

Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.

QPodgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www. tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tučepi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water.

Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century.

Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup.

QTučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com.

July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. June, September Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Museums Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There’s a lovely collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com, www.museum-gradac. com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - Au‑ gust 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission free.

Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomis‑ lava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradskimuzej-makarska@st.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/makarska/ index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Archaeological Museum Collection (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

www.pp-biokovo.hr

Marineta - Mala obala 16 HR-21300 Makarska tel./fax: +385 (0)21 616 924 info@pp-biokovo.hr Photo by Ivo Pervan (PPB Archives)

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Makarska Riviera period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The nations that settled and passed through here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, toni.jurisic@net.hr. Open 09:00 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils.

There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admis‑ sion 10 - 15kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej) Baška Voda’s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.QSrida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn.

The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Ma‑ karska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Gallery The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by 66 Split In Your Pocket

The Biokovo Nature Park Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia.

Nature park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska - Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centre: tel.(+385-21) 62 51 36.

Gornja Brela Presentation Centre Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open to visitors by prior arrangement.

Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school.

Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makar‑ ska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@makarska.hr, www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Churches Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Crkva Gospe od Ružarija) The slender bell tower of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923 and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It’s not unlike the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th century, the church has stained glass windows added in 2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists.QIgrane, nr. Podgora.

Church of St Anthony of Padua (Crkva sv. Anutna Padovanskog) The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962 quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area.

It’s built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway, plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the frontage. The church’s ceiling is painted with images of the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padua, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave.

QSrida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51.

Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija) You’ll find this little church and its bell tower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront.

Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that he’d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska.

Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika) At the end of the 19th century, a growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it’s a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows.

The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in Venice in 1825. Mass: 08:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00, 20:00.

QDonje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St Mark’s Church marks Makarska’s central square, the heart of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska’s cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in Split, so nowadays St Mark’s has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the development of the Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the bell tower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv.

Nikole 73, Baška Voda.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits of St. Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions.

A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000 volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which, apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen Veža.QObala hrvatskih rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr.

Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 92 00, branko.brnas@gmail. com, www.samostan-zaostrog.com. Open by prior ar‑ rangement.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monasSummer 2016

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Makarska Riviera tian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

Brela, village Medici, from the private collection Duje Medic

Tučepi, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

tery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr.

Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalma68 Split In Your Pocket

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news.

This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.

In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu)) Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.

Stone Tower (Kamena kula) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.

The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska’s central square. His statue’s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.

Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity. The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

The Seagull’s Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.QPodgora.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma) A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.

QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun, Makarska.

The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska.

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Leisure PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES WITH OUR PREVIEW Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine and beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city that are suitable for families with children, to almost untouched open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure and nature lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the beaches are named Bene, Kašjuni and Kaštelet; locals will tell you that without doubt the most famous beach is Bačvice, where you can play the traditional home game picigin. The islands within the Split archipelago are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and have fun on the scenic beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the island of Brač. This picturesque beach has been declared the most beautiful beach in Croatia and it is unique in that it changes its shape and position, depending from where the wind blows. The island of Biševo on the south side hides the Porat Bay which is remotely visited as it can only be reached by boat. The bays around the little island Proizd, near Korčula, bare the unusual sight of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh salty aroma in the air!

On the way to Makarska, visitors will come across a series of charming beaches, we simply have to highlight Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaža in Omiš, Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baška Voda.

For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach we definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Osejava peninsula.

Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline aficionados will find it tough to choose in what to do first with the abundant range of adventure activities on offer. The Omiš area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina canyon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari, trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the audacious adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari on the islands of Čiovo near Split. It is here that the new discipline of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also.

The islands are best known for cycling tours, diving, and kayaking at sea. Bol on Brač is particularly known as a destination for kite and wind surfing. The thrill is real we tell you!

Last but not least, for something more tranquil there are wellness centres with vast services including (massage, sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which can be found within the five star hotels and resorts which are in the vicinity of Split.

So there’s plenty to do from leisure to adventure, pick ,n, choose and enjoy the cruise!

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Shopping Art galleries Atelier Mikulić Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QC‑2, Teslina 14b, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@ gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement. N Jakšić Gallery The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 64 77 10/(+38521) 64 78 57, info@galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Jaman Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sailing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching artwork!QI‑2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jamanart.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A Morić A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight into Croatian fine art!QJ‑1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr, www.galerijamoric.com/en. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Flea market & street art Art market @ Prokurative Head to the Prokurative and you’re bound to bump into the city’s creative individuals and organisations. Lots of goodies to buy, events and performances to see, themed art exhibits and oenological tastings!QI‑2, Prokurative (Trg Republike). Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Strossmayer Park (Đardin) You never know what you can find but by attending this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of Split’s inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep.

See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other rare things that are up for sale. The fair becomes especially popular and lively during the summer months, when the city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Paparella Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps to small boat models…all decorated and created with a lot of love and taste.QJ‑2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 78 54 21, galerijapaparella@gmail.com. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Studio Naranča Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com, www.studionaranca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Croatian design Arterija Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion design store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regularly and she also promotes the works of some of Croatia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with passion!QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091 547 71 41. Open 10:00-21:00.

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Shopping Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).QJ‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+38521) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Get get get One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products.

The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented.QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr, www. getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A Koza unikati The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wallets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing machine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14 69, koza.unikati@gmail.com. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Ledenko Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail handmade Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be the winning formula for that special occasion.QD‑2/I‑1, Kačićeva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/(+385-) 091 444 43 05, info@ledenko.hr, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

shopping malls CIty Center one QVukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@ citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June 01 - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00.

Joker Centre QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/ (+385-21) 39 69 10, marketing@joker.hr, www. joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

MALL OF SPLIT QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/ (+385-21) 39 69 10, marketing@joker.hr, www. joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

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Think Pink One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI‑2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:30. J­A

Delicatessen Blato 1902 Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato 1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 31, blato@blato1902.hr, www. blato1902.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Dobro jutro Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with customers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have fresh goats milk.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 31, tel. (+38521) 38 22 45, balinicedoo@gmail.com. Open 06:00 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.

Enoteka Terra A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic delicacies.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www. vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42 59, trgovina.split@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A Judita - gourmet & wine shop Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalmatian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Kraš Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte!QI‑2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, bonbonniere.split@kras.hr, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Nadalina Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious, split.inyourpocket.com

Shopping may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, nadalina@nadalina.hr, www. nadalina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.

Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00. QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Orao A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic prosciutto and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County which can be bought in whole pieces or sliced.QD‑2, Domovin‑ skog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Pipi Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, robi@dalmacijavino.hr, www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. A Split Tea House Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.

Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Viola Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find and sample a wide range of superb wines that will surely deepen your love for vino!QD‑2, Ulica Ivana Gundulića 36, tel. (+385-21) 48 01 13, info@vinotekaviola.com, www.vinoteka-viola.com. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs Atelier Perajica Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace.QJ‑2, Peris‑ til bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica. com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 74 Split In Your Pocket

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Shopping

Dancing Bear Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+38521) 34 43 09, maloprodaja.split@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Morpurgo Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured.QI‑2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43, st.morpurgo@apm.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

clothing design, as well as product design followed by ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.

Jewellery by Ida Stipčić Jakšić One of the jewels of the Croatian Designer scene is Ida Stipčić Jakšić who has over the last decade engaged herself in jewellery. Through use of semi-precious stones and silver which she gathers from her husband’s family tradition of stone processing, each copy is unique and hand-processed down to the last detail. Her artistic quality has been recognised by Croatian art institutions and last year Jakšić had a major exhibition at the Mimara Museum in Zagreb. You can find her gems at the Jakšić Gallery, Bribirska 10.

Nered Sheik antique! Wonderful decorative items from cushions, greeting cards, bags, ceramics and hundreds of other products all made as a result of an individual approach to each. Antea and Jovana take vintage household items only to restore and redesign them, giving them a new life and context.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385-) 099 194 92 48, split@neredshop.com, www.neredshop.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Specialty Havana Cigar Shop Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@ havana-cigar-shop.com, www.havana-cigar-shop.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Affordable Art Bowls, Cups and Plates by Lidia Boševski If you would like to include a unique bowl, cup or plate in your home collection, then visit the GetGetGet Concept Store at Dominisova 16. After completing a degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Shopping |croatian

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

BOROVO STORES IN SPLIT Krešimirova 3 Ruđera Boškovića 15

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

Monograph of Matko Trebotić A lavish edition of Summa Mediterranea (with around 300 reproductions of the author’ works of art in colour, graphics, drawing and photography) as dedicated to the artwork of painter Matko Trebotić, one of the most influential and important Croatian artists. This monograph can be found in the museum shop of the Split Gallery of Fine Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, and is written by art historian Viktor Žmegač.

Replicas of wooden sculptures and reproductions of works on wood by Vasko Lipovac Head to the Vasko Lipovac Atelier on Vukovarska 8a for this Croatian / Montenegrins opus. Lipovac worked relentlessly from 1990 - 2006 at this very location which holds over 1000 sculptures, many of which were made from wood. His studio was his mecca, his haven and by taking one step inside, Lipovac’s passion for the Mediterranean becomes evidently clear. In many ways, his works are a small but significant part of Split’s artistic history and offer.

Wooden sculptures by Neno Mikulić Atelier Mikulić Teslina 14b, is home to multitudes of wooden sculptures made by the artist himself. They evoke a sense of Dalmatia as many natural surroundings and city folk can be seen as his driving force and inspiration, along with some Mediterranean humour. From sailors, boats and fish to Franciscan monks, old ladies and seagulls; these are just some of the motives Mikulić carves and polishes!

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Wooden Sculptures by Neno Mikulić, Atelier Mikulić Archives

Necklace silver and citrine by Ida Stipčić Jakšić, Jakšić Gallery Archives

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Hotels SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

5 Stars Atrium QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www. hotel-atrium.hr. doubles 1650kn. P­Z ­i ­O­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­w­W hhhhh

4 Stars Art Hotel QD‑2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel. hr. doubles €135 - 170. P­i ­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­B­ K­D­w­W hhhh Marmont QI‑2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel. com, www.marmonthotel.com. doubles €340. P­i­ A­R­L­G­B­K­X­W hhhh Radisson Blu Resort QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31, info.split@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu. com/resort-split. doubles €175 - 325. P­i ­T­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh Vestibul Palace QJ‑2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www. vestibulpalace.com. doubles €395. P­Z ­i ­T­J­A­ R­L­G­B­K­W hhhh

3 Stars Adriana QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@hoteladriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. doubles 614 - 1214kn.

P­i ­J­A­6­G­B­K­X­W hhh facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

As QE‑1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax (+38521) 36 61 11, info@hotelas-split.com, www.hotelassplit.com. doubles 800kn. P ­i ­A ­R ­L ­G ­B ­K­ X­W hhh Bellevue QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 74 99, fax (+385-21) 36 23 86, rezervacije@hotel-bellevuesplit.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. doubles €83 107. P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­B ­K ­X ­W hhh Consul QD‑2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www. hotel-consul.net. doubles €120. P ­i ­H ­A ­6 ­L­ G­B ­K ­W hhh Dujam QE‑2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax (+385-21) 27 30 81, info@hoteldujam.com, www. hoteldujam.com. doubles €84 - 94. P ­i ­H ­A ­U­ L­G ­K ­W hhh Peristil QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil. com, www.hotelperistil.com. doubles €135 - 162.

P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­K ­X ­W hhh

Hostels Golly&Bossy QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.gollybossy.com. 87 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. P­J ­H ­A ­G ­B­ K­W Silver Gate QD‑3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) 099 282 38 44, silvergatehostel@gmail.com, www. silvergatehostel.com. 4 Total rooms 26 dorm beds, 17 - 25€ per person. P­J ­R ­N ­G ­W Split Hostel Booze and Snooze QI‑2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@ splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm beds, 17 - 27€ per person. P­N ­G ­W Sunseekers QI‑2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 291 21 27, sunseekers@net.hr. 18 dorm beds, 15 - 30€ per person. P­J ­N ­G ­W Tchaikovsky Hostel QD‑2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel./fax (+38521) 31 71 24 tel. (+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@t-hostel. com, www.t-hostel.com. 20 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person. P­J ­A ­G ­W Summer 2016

77

A

1

B

Split Map Legend Info Centre

Market

Church

Bus Station

Official Building

Train Station

Museum

Ferry Line

Theatre

Post Office

Gallery

Parking

Beach

Public Toilet

Park

Monument

Panoramic View

2

Šetalište Marina Tataglije

Šetalište Mari na

Ta taglije

i Lu č

Šetalište M arina T atagli je

Lučica ul.

ca ul.

Šetalište Marina Tataglij

Bene

li šte Šeta

ne Be

e Šetališ

ije

Ma nda l

Ta ta

gl

trogasn Va

Š

al

ina ar M Šet arina Tatagl ije ališ te M išt e

asni put Vatrog

Vatr og

n i put

as

Tatagl ije

t V at rogasni pu

ut ip

alište M arin a

Ma

je te Mar agli in a Tat

et

Š

e lišt eta

g ata aT rin

lije

Marjan

će vo

še ta li

Maran

g

Ma

Gospe od Betlema

Meš tro vić a

rang unić e

Kašljuni

M ara

aM

eštrović a

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Fran aS up il a

Še

tali

Ulica

Čiovska ulic a Drven ička ulica š te

Iva na

Frana Su

d ko

som

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pila

talište

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Ul. P od k osom

om

ića ihanov na M Antu Ulica U lica Antuna M iha

Ul

Ulica Frana Sup ila Meštrović Gallery

Šetalište Ivana Meštrović Ježinac

a

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments Šetali

šte I

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o še ićev ngun

no vić a

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ana

a rović ešt

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ka ulica

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te Iv

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ki put

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vo š

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ba

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i un

m lo

vića

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Marjan Hill

nski put rja Ma

šte

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uli ca

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Parking

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Official Building

Museum

Theatre

Gallery

Beach

. ka u l

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la

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še Kru Ul.

St Dominus Cathedral

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a ulica umbićev

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Park

Market

Info Centre

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