Split In Your Pocket No14

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split Summer 2018

The Top Getaways Makarska Riviera, Dalmatian Zagora

Croatian Cultural Dictionary N°14 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Phrases That Can’t Be Translated, Only Lived

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Croatian Cultural Dictionary

Dalmatian Zagora

37

Run to the hills 5

Split Surroundings 42

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

The top getaways

What’s On 7

Makarska Riviera 53

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay

Restaurants

14

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Local Flavour

24

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes

26

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife 28 Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

32

All in a day

Shopping 61 Priceless places and buys

Where to stay 65 Accommodation categories in Croatia

Arrival & Getting Around

66

SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here

Split Basics Keepn it real

Maps

City map City centre map County map

69 70-72 73 74

Visit Trogir, Trogir Tourist Board Archives Trogir is a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. See page 42.

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Foreword Foreword With thousands of locals and visitors funneled daily through the narrow alleys that make up its historic core, Split in summertime is one of those bustling, sweaty, vibrant Mediterranean cities that becomes more addictive the longer you stay. Indeed its take-off as a tourist destination has been so rapid that many are beginning to question whether Split still is the grittily authentic Dalmatian port it used to be.

Such fears are a little bit on the snobbish side: Split people rather like foreign visitors, and the city is in any case big enough to absorb the commercial aspects of tourism without losing too much of its gruff personality. Squeezed between a pungent fish market at one end and a large, boisterous fruit-and-veg market at the other, Split’s ancient centre is not in any immediate danger of becoming a tourist-only zone. Locals are constantly rushing through it with their shopping bags, brushing past the fork lift-style trucks that deliver supplies to the shops and boutiques squeezed into its tight alleys. The palm-splashed seafront Riva is the city’s idea of a huge municipal open-air living room-cumoffice space, filled with locals exchanging gossip, making calls, doing business while sitting at a café table, or simply checking out what everybody else is wearing.

So if there’s one city in Europe where you can simply switch off and go with the flow, it’s Split.

COver story Vrgorac is home to a special beverage, bikla, a combination of goats’ milk and young local wine. This is served along with other local specialties like frogs in parsley and snails.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Split In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Researcher Dora Gaćeša Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives, Bikla Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Croatian Cultural Foreword Dictionary reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam.

Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo.

So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

Kalypso Archives

Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way.

Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages. Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo. The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

Croatian business conversations This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed.

Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoist wu wei principle (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literally means ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to, indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet. A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to it any time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

Croatian leisure talk Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit’ meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life.

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’.

Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual. But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to www.travelhonestly.com/ croatian-cafe-culture.

And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing.

If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu. Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh.

Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/ slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success.

When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound far-fetched, but pomalo is the Croatian timetravel machine.

Croatian weather talk Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified.

Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude.

8 Split In Your Pocket

10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain.

If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

Most important ‘empty’ talk

We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions.

But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners. Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk. So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

By Andrea Pisac split.inyourpocket.com

Aida, The 64th Split Summer Festival, Croatian National Theatre Archives

What‘s On ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN SPLIT AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS...

What’s On Exhibitions 07.06 - 16.09 » Emanuel Vidović ‘Passatist’ and Modernist Arguably the greatest painter that Split ever produced, Emanuel Vidović (1870-1953) was a master of the symbolist city-scape, known for his scenes of Split, Trogir, Venice and elsewhere. This large career-spanning exhibition (already shown to a huge public at the Art Pavilion in Zagreb) provides a rare chance to see pictures and sketches which come from collections outside Split, and haven’t been seen before in Vidović’s home city. The title refers to Vidović’s ambiguous place in art history, drawing inspiration from both traditional painting and the avant-garde.

QJ‑2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, www.mgst.net.

12.06 - 16.09 » The Useful and the Usless by Dejana Kabiljo Perceived as research and as a retrospective, artist Dejana Kabiljo throws her own spin on things that are of ‘use’ in our world. She returns to her hometown of Split and is invited to display her works that she says would even impress aliens who if they were to descend upon us.QJ‑2, Museum of Fine Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www. galum.hr.

20.06 - 10.08 » Michael Snow La Région Centrale Shot in the bleak landscapes of northern Quebec, La Région Centrale (1971) is one of the key moments in experimental film making; a minimalist, deeply meditative

experience shot in panning and circling movements by a pre-programmed robotic camera arm. Easy viewing it is not, but it is an undoubtedly compelling piece of work, and functions exceedingly well as a bizarre counterpoint to wandering around the tourist-packed alleys of central Split.QJ‑2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, www. galerija-kula.hr.

July - AUGUST » The War After The War The centenary of the end of World War I is commemorated with an exhibition about the navies active in the Adriatic Sea during both the First and Second World Wars.

Uniforms, weapons, ceremonial sabres and period photographs convey the extent to which the Adriatic Sea was a zone of imperial and local rivalry for much of the first half of the twentieth century. QK‑2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www. hpms.hr.

14.07 - 14.08 » Vlado Martek - At the End of Mannerism: Getting Ready for Art One of the most eagerly awaited exhibitions of the summer is this retrospective devoted to the work of Vlado Martek (born 1951), one of Croatia’s most inventive and mercurial artist-provocateurs. A poet, painter, graphic artist and occasional performance artist, Martek creates images that look simple but which stay in the memory a lot longer than you expect. His most famous work is a map of America with the word “Balkan”scrawled across it – the kind of throwaway joke that you end up spending ages thinking about. Martek’s mixture of warmth, humour and subversion has been an inspiration to many others, and it

Kaja Urh, ‘’We Can Do It’’, HULU Split Archives

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What’s On classical concert 07.06, 21.06 » Vinko Lesić Cycle of Concerts by Young Musician Part of the Vinko Lesić Cycle of Concerts by Young Musicians, this features up-and-coming talents Antonija Škorput on guitar and thrilling young Osijek singer Anja Papa. The concert takes place in the atmospheric Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum.

Another concert in the Vinko Lesić Young Musicians Cycle, this is a great chance to explore musical directions that stretch the boundaries of chamber music.

Pula-born virtuoso Dožić plays a selection of pieces especially arranged for solo accordion; while the Zadar Clarinet Quartet is a unique formation with an unusual repertoire.QJ‑2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.mgst.net. is no surprise that his work has become something of a Croatian classic, a running commentary on the absurdities of the age.QD‑3, The Institute for Scientific and Artis‑ tic Work in Split, Palača Milesi, Trg braće Radić 7, www. galerija-kula.hr.

17.07 - 09.09 » An Artist at Meštrović’s - Frano Missia Split-born, Paris- and New-York-educated Frano Missia (1924-2018) was a typically Mediterranean painter, producing landscapes and portraits full of colour and verve.

Missia passed away in March this year, turning this exhibition (already arranged while the artist was still alive) into a warm, engaging and fully-deserved tribute. QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr.

27.07 - 02.08 » Friends of the Sea Like In the Old Days In its 9th edition, this transit exhibition and project takes place on the shores of the Adriatic and will have visited 13 Croatian destinations by September. It dwells into the world of photography and promotes the value of life on the Adriatic coast. Each year the event is viewed by over one million visitors and the 2018 exhibition will include 60 black and white records of the present-day Croatian Adriatic made in large format, yet visually replicating the golden age of fine art photography and geometric pure visuals of old times. Beautiful, classy and emotional – this is nostalgia at its finest.Qwww.prijateljimora.com

groups. They celebrate their longevity with this open-air concert at Gripe Fortress (site of the Croatian Maritime Museum), during which they will play their way through a huge repertoire of songs - most of which the average Croatian music fan knows by heart. Hladno Pivo’s texts, full of social comment, political satire and vulgar humour (U ritmu moje dlakave guze or “In Rhythm With My Hairy Arse” being one of their more memorable song titles), are unlikely to make much of an impact on the non-Croatian outsider. But their melodies are darn catchy, and if you’re not humming them by the end of the evening you just weren’t there.QK‑2, Gripe Fortress, Glagoljaška bb, 90kn, www.hladnopivo.hr.

Special Events 22.06 - 24.06 » Cultural Festival Names/Bol An eclectic selection of musical, artistic and gastronomic events in various venues around town, with the accent on local traditions and their contemporary relevance.QBol, Brač island, www.imena.hr.

23.06 - 08.09 » 34th Supetar Summer Festival A two-and-a-half-month season of exhibitions, music, drama, literary readings and folklore, the Supetar Summer Festival keeps guests to the island of Brač entertained and enlightened throughout the summer season. There will be something going on most nights of the week, with events spread between Supetar and smaller local settlements Mirca, Splitska and Škrip. QSupetar, Brač island, www. supetar.hr.

29.06 - 09.09 » Revija Urbane Kulture – Evo Ruke!

During the peak season, head to Đardin at the Strossmayerov perivoj for a sense of urban music and culture. From pop and hip-hop to jazz and other genres, a plethora of top Croatian musicians and performers will deliver their melancholy/hypnotic/bumpy/ groovy sounds and feel to the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, www.revija-urbane-kulture.com.

Rock & Pop Concerts 04.08 21:00 » Hladno Pivo It’s incredible to think that Zagreb punk-pop phenomenon Hladno Pivo (“Cold Beer”) have been around for thirty years, during which they have earned widespread respect as one of Croatia’s most authentic, unpretentious and down-to-earth facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Alka, Photo by Žižić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

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What’s On 29.06 - 21.07 » Festival of Dalmatian klapa Omiš For over four weeks, klapa ensembles will serenade tourists down the cobbled stone paths of the city and the true final competition will be held mid-July. This is a must see if in town as klapa singing is now recognised and protected

by UNESCO since its inclusion into the Representative List of Intangible Heritage. Qwww.fdk.hr.

12.07 - 13.07 » A Sustipan Night’s Dream Sustipan Park will for the seventh year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism with Neno Belan feat. Mediteran Orchestra and Maksim Mrvica. Q C-3, Sustipan, www. ritamprodukcija.com 14.07 - 14.08 » The 64th Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad.QI‑1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.

20.07 - 22.07 » S.A.R.S. – Sinj Amateur Rock Meetup The old town of Sinj in the Dalmatian hinterland is the setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia. Due to its popularity, it has grown into something much bigger with popular mainstream Croatian acts also performing. Side sparkles include book nights, film screenings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay tuned for line up details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

30.07 » Delmates vs Romans Football Match The idea of a football match between the Delmates (Illyrians) and the Romans is based on historical facts related to the tombstone of Gaius Laberius. It promotes the theory about the origins of football in this area and is in fact a theatrical performance of comic character, played by invented rules which are inspired by the spirit of ancient times. Diocletian returns as do a gang of bandsmen!QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

02.08 - 04.08 » Village Products Fair For the 8th year running, local family businesses that deal with food production and traditional souvenirs get to present their products all in one place. Cheese, smoked meats, olives, honey,

19.07 - 21.07 » The 8th Split Blues Festival Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this genre.

As always, the event has a high level of production and attracts some of the best Croatian and international musicians. Free admission!QC‑3, Park Zvončac, www. splitbluesfestival.com.

the cellars of diocletian’s palace june » Linh Phuong Nguyen - Other Side IV Installations and video work from the Vietnamese conceptual artist, exploring the history of colonial exploitation in Vietnam’s rubber plantations.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, Papalićeva 1, www.hulu-split.hr. july - august » Tvrtko Burić - Line Life A Croatian artist currently working in Italy, Burić uses squiggly ink drawings and abstract sculptural shapes to create a unique 3-D environment. Loss of individual identity and critical thinking in an age of mass conformity is the overall theme.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, Papalićeva 1, www. hulu-split.hr.

Gallery of Arts, National Museum Zadar Archives

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11 - Feast of the Assumption, Photo by Ivan Alebić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

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What’s On liqueurs, wine, fruit, oil and other eco products can be tried and bought. In a jolly atmosphere with live music and local performers, the event really is a buzz!Qwww.visitsinj.com.

03.08 - 11.08 » The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death. When true love never dies then it’s up to those who are present to help ensure that the memories are not forgotten.

Kaštelani (or town folk from the town of Kaštela) have for generations kept this wonderful legend alive which is vindicated by this festival.QKaštel Lukšić, www. kastela-info.hr.

05.08 » Sinjska Alka The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of Sinj or one of

Photo by Bojan - Haron, Voi’Sa Festival Archives

Festivals 06.07 - 08.07 » Ultra Europe Festival Split’s Poljud stadium once again reverberates to the booming bass of this Adriatic-hopping festival (other Ultra events will be held on Vis and Hvar), with tens of thousands of revelers enjoying the best that the electronic dance music world can throw at them. Armin Van Buuren, Carl Cox, David Guetta, Eric Prydz and Seth Troxler are among the headline DJs confirmed so far. QPoljud Stadium, www.ultraeurope.com.

02.08 - 04.08 » Voi’Sa Festival ‘Get down, get down and move it all around’ to some soul, boogie, and hip hop music. Featuring Urban & 4 (July 21), Elemental (July 22), AM:PM (July 23) accompanied by DJs: Ante Demos, Bocca Sofistifunk, D-Gree, Feta, Fiddly Digits, Funkytrain, Hrwoe, Ivan Dudda, Ivan Škvorc, Kid Va, MJ Suddani, Oli Do Boli, Unitsouled feat. TBA, this party should not be missed.

QAcapulco Beach, Supetar, Brač island, www. voisafestival.com.

09.08 - 11.08 » Moondance Festival Reach to the sky, see the sea, the starry night and dance under the moonlight. Welcome to the 6th edition of this grand electronic music festival, headliners include Dystopian with RØDHÅD, Radio Slave, Monoloc and the legendary Tresor.Berlin with KHAND, Jonas Kopp, The Analogue Cops, Handmade joining KiNK, Francesco Tristano and Eduardo De La Calle.QKamerlengo Fortress, Trogir, www. moondancefest.com.

10.08 - 11.08 » Šakan Festival Named after a famous rock in the town of Brela and pronounced as ‘shakan’, the festival is a magnet for lovers of music with local and international artists from the music scene performing close to the sea in an idyllic setting. So far the repertoire includes the Urban & 4, Rundek Cargo Trio, Grant-Lee Phillips, Irena Žilić, RØLØ and there’s more to come.

QPlateau in front of Hotel Soline, Brela, 50kn, www.facebook.com/sakanfest.

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What’s On the surrounding villages, can take part in the Alka competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

with constant prayer to Holy Mary, the Miraculous Lady of Sinj; the enemy finally retreated and left Sinj forever.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

09.08 » Theatre show - The Siege of Sinj 1715 Based on true evidence, see the re-enactment of the Battle of Sinj from 1715 when an estimated 40,000 Ottoman soldiers tried to conquer this Croatian city. However, Father Ivan Grčić and 700 locals fought off the invaders from various strongholds for 7 days offering strong resistance along

16.08 - 18.08 » Aj Cha In memory of Dino Dvornik, the King of Croatian funk who inspired and exacerbated so much energy through his music and stage presence, top Croatian bands and artists will join his tribute band to relive his timeless hits. The concert will be held at the Hajduk old playground and during the threeday festival will be deployed throughout Dino’s hometown.

Qwww.facebook.com/ajchafestival.

18.08 » Musical Evenings at Kamičak The fortress Kamičak in the inner Dalmatian town of Sinj was built on a hilltop back in 1712. Though used as a defence of the city, nowadays it leads a much more mellow life with cultural events taking place. This year an open air concert will be held at the fortress with live acts across various genres performing.Qwww.visitsinj.com.

Aida, The 64th Split Summer Festival, Croatian National Theatre Archives

18.08 » The Pirate Battle of Omiš The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th century and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.”

The role-playing battle describes the fight between the Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omiš, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omiš and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chanted the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port, Omiš, www.visitomis.hr.

Film Pete Tong , 24th August at 585 Club, Bol, Brač island

Photo by Max Juhasz, Friends of the Sea - Like In the Old Days

14 Split In Your Pocket

07.06 - 16.06 » Split Mediterranean Film Festival For eleven year straight, this festival of full-length and short film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider that screenings take place on the beach with the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket!QD‑3, Open Cin‑ ema Bačvice, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, www.fmfs.hr. summer » Kino Mediteran A project named Kino Mediteran has for six years now been reinstituting cinemas Dalmatia, with cinemas in 30 towns open during the summer, and 10 of those open throughout the year. The films on show are the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project grow and grow! QKino Mediteran Bol, Kino Mediteran Supetar, Kino Mediter‑ an Hvar, Kino Mediteran Jelsa, Kino Mediteran Komiža, Kino Mediteran Imotski, www.kinomediteran.hr. split.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 12.07 - 14.07 » Dalmatia Film Festival A film frenzy waits with this international festival of feature and short films, documentaries and travel/tourism films.

Under the motto ‘Dalmatia is my Lifeline’, the festival offers a selection of the best contemporary films from all three categories. All the guests and visitors will enjoy the film screenings under the stars and by the sea, in a pleasant summer night atmosphere. The festival takes place in several cities across Split-Dalmatia and the Šibenik-Knin counties (Sutivan 20th - 22nd July, Omiš 12th - 14th August).

Qwww.dalmatia-filmfestival.com.

08.08 - 10.08 » The 4th Brač Film Festival As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international film festival which consists of a main and side programme.

The main programme displays feature-length and short films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public.QSupetar, Brač island, www.bracfilmfestival.hr.

Food & Drink summer » Vino u sridu Connoisseurs of wine can embrace for some top range wine tasting this summer! From week to week, local wine producers will get the chance to promote their sorts to the public. Each week one winery will become the main focal point and it’s a great way to meet & greet people with a passion for the fine drop. As their motto states ‘wine is life!’QI‑3, Antique Bar, Obala hrvatskog narodnog pre‑ poroda 6, www.vinolike.com. Every Thursday.

15.06 - 15.09 » Kopačina Lamb Festival Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table - it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač island, www.konoba-kopacina.com. Every Thursday.

28.07 » The Soparnik Festival Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat between Split and Omiš for the 13th edition of this mouthwatering experience. This pie made of mangold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned between two layers of the simplest dough. Dating since the Turkish invasions in Croatia, this is such a popular dish that it has earned its own festival.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr.

16.08 » Hrapačuša Night The village of Dol has its very own living legend – a lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of hrapačuša cake. Some may point out that hrapačuša is only made on Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Her hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with good reason. Try Barica’s award-winning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night.

QKonoba Toni, Dol, Brač island, www.toni-dol.info.

galić art salon 14.06 - 30.06 » Kristina Restović Tourism There is no better place than the tourist-clogged centre of Split to take a good look at Kristina Restović’s deeply ambiguous graphics of tourists sightseeing, dragging luggage around, and generally being ‘on tour’ in an undefined, empty landscape.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

03.07 - 17.07 » Kaja Urh Slovene artist Kaja Urh takes images from the internet and other digital sources and then repaints them on canvas, cultivating a bright, beady style that replicates the glare of a computer screen. There is something compelling but unsettling about the way that Urh creates fine art out of something so random and incidental.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

18.07 - 04.08 » Miran Šabić Archiving Memory Croatian-Slovene artist Šabić recorded videos of his friends and relatives talking about shared experiences, and then made large-format drawings that referred to elements in the narrative. The result is a visually strong piece of work that is part guessing game, working out which bits of drawing refer to which story. QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.

07.08 - 21.08 » Milan Zoričić Bodies of Colour Minimalist exercises in shape, colour and texture from an artist who is also a professional architect.

QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulusplit.hr.

Kristina Restović, At the same time the same place, HULU Split Archives

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Restaurants ness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). N­P­G­B­J­6­W Hvaranin To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn).

A­P­G­X­B­W

Banderillas, Photo by Damira Kalajzic, Terminal F Restaurant Archives

One of the best things in life for many are the places where you can drink and eat well. Diocletian’s City has finally woken up in gastronomy. All those who favor iće & piće have the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns.

Croatian Bajamonti Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.

Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate each of the tables based on the season and they also hold various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, www.restoranbajamonti.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 450kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­ W­i Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors.

Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (45 - 81kn). N­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of fresh16 Split In Your Pocket

Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). A­P­G­B­6­W Konoba Barkarola Looking for a typical Dalmatian tavern overlooking the sea, then Barkarola is it! And of course, the menu is well stocked with seafood as well as steak, risotto, carpaccio, salad and mega platters. The selection of Croatian wines is considerable especially those from Dalmatia. With the marina in the foreground, it’s a nice place to wind down after a day of sightseeing.QE‑3, Šetalište Kalafata 2, tel. (+385-) 097 629 11 74. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 180kn).

A­P­G­B­S­L­W­K Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/(+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 160kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.

QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, www. konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn).

A­P­G­B­W split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, www.ma-toni.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. (66 - 168kn).

A­P­G­T­B­6­W Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www. restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn).

N­P­G­B­6­W Oštarija u Viđakovi Just a few steps from Bačvice beach, this tavern continues centuries-long tradition of family Viđakovi. Traditional recipes and distinctive atmosphere with old photographs and exhibited artefacts evoke memories from the past.The menu is diverse, including meals such as braised beef with gnocchi, homemade beef tripe, various cod dishes (bianco, stew and baked), cold and hot starters (octopus salad, fish carpaccio, cuttlefish black risotto, Frutti di Mare pasta) and plenty of grilled meat and fresh fish. Pour it down with carefully chosen Croatian red and white wines and enjoy in live music in the garden throughout the summer season. This is the place to feel the spirit of old Split and enjoy the original Dalmatian food.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27, www.ostarijauvidjakovi. eu/hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P ­G ­X­ B­L ­6 ­W ­i Pimpinella A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more.QE‑3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, www. pimpinella.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (48 - 70kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i Posejdon Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI‑2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49, www.restoranposejdon.com. Open 09:00 - 00:00. (50 200kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W ­i facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Šperun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings.

The daily special is often a good bet.QH‑2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62. Open 09:00 23:00. (35 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W ­i Trattoria Tinel Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course.QH‑2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn).

A­P­G­X­B­E­6­W ­i Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominiso‑ va 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W ­i Villa Spiza Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh homemade food that is prepared right in front of you.

This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such

wine bar Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines. Representing the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They also have been mentioned in numerous national and international publications for their high-quality products and service. Professional tastings available.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 78 77 78, www. paradox.hr. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­ E­J­6­W 18 Split In Your Pocket

as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal fresh ingredients.QI‑2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 12 49. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn).

N­P­G­T­B­J­6­W Zlatna ribica Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+38521) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 80kn). N­P­G­W

Modern European Aci Grašo With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the ACI Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC‑3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 60, www.adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

(90-180kn). A­P­G­B­W Adriana This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, www.hotel-adriana.com/restaurant.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 - 160kn). A­P­G­B­J­W ­i Apetit Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting yellow colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI‑2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, www.apetit-split.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­J­6­W ArtiČok This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels, homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to offer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-) 095 670 00 04. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). A­P­ G­S­J­W­K ­i split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

WHEN YOU WANT TO STOP TIME THIS IS THE PLACE TO BE With Diocletian’s wall on one side, amazing view of the harbour on the other, and a flurry of Mediterranean cuisine happening right in front of you, let your biggest worry be which delicious meal to choose.

The only thing you’ll have to do is bring good mood and good company, leave the rest to us.

Let your expectations be surpassed and your senses surprised.

Michelin recommended restaurant.

Opening hours: lunch 11.00-15.00 dinner 18.00-01.00 Reservations: +385 98 9662064 www.zoi.hr

Bring this page when you dine with us and receive 10% off facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2018

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Restaurants Augubio Congo Hidden in a beautiful courtyard inside the Diocletian’s Palace, the ethos behind this restaurant is creative flair with seasonal ingredients. Pasta is always popular as is seafood and steak. Care is taken with service and presentation. On top of all that, the interior has an elegant blend of ancient roman ruins decked with modern furniture.QJ‑2, Diok‑ lecijanova 1, tel. (+385-) 099 323 96 71. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (90 - 180kn).

cal English style breakfast and homemade granola with muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octopus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 33, www.brasserieon7.com. Open 07:30 - 24:00. (90 240kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i

Bistro Mazzgoon Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­ E­6­W ­i

Cardo A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Ho‑ tel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr.

Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­W ­i

Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. (100 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day.

Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typi-

Zoí Archives

20 Split In Your Pocket

Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.

Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13.

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (80 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i Kadena Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer.QE‑3, Ivana pl.

Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, www.restorankadena.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (80 - 160kn). A­P­G­X­B­E­6­W Marshal Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes.

For a perfect end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadar‑ ska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60, www. marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i Mistral Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.

The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­T­B­L­6­W NoStress Bistro Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro-nostress.com. Open 08:00 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i Oyster & Sushi bar Bota Enjoy the finer things in life with this fusion of Mediterranean and Japanese food. Savoured meals are prepared with the finest ingredients including oysters from Mali Ston, Bluefin tuna, shrimp, prawns, local spices and salt; top that with Asian innovation and the dishes are light, modern and tasty. There are other special offers beyond seafood for those preferring meat or vegies too!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-21) 48 86 48, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:45. (30 120kn). A­P­G­B­E­6­W ­i Zinfandel’s food & wine bar According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, www.zinfandelfoodandwinebar. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (140 270kn). A­P­G­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i Zoí It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experience, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine, and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just beneath you. That this is an unfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

forgettable and sensual experience is now recognised

by Michelin, who awarded Zoí two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. QJ‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385-21) 63 74 91, www. zoi.hr. Open lunch 11:00 - 15:00, dinner 18:00 - 01:00.

(70 - 240kn). A­P ­T ­B ­J ­6 ­W ­i Zrno Soli This restaurant, located at the ACI Marina, is stylish both in and out. The cuisine is creative Mediterranean, with the kitchen headed by an excellent and energetic chef.

Service is second to none and with a million dollar view overlooking the old city of Split, the yachts and the harbour, a relaxing meal here is a memorable experience.

QC‑2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 434 30 50. Open 08:00 - 01:00. (80-250kn). A­P­ G­X ­B ­6 ­W ­i

Quick Eats Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with omelettes, poached eggs with avocado or sandwiches from 07:00 - 11.30. Thereafter, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as salads, homemade pastas, burgers, fish and meats from the grill, or delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a chocolate lava Summer 2018

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Restaurants Pikulece For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels, octopus grill, as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.

QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www. oilbar.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­ T­B­J­6­W

Bistro Mazzgoon Archives

cake or a piece of blueberry pie. The green wooden tables and chairs, surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor terrace, give an earthy green peaceful feel to the place.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

(40 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­6­W ­i Corto Maltese Freestyle Food Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese. rocks. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 143kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­E­J­6­W ­i Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. (20 - 40kn). N­P­G­B­W La Regina del Formaggio A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croatian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses, as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches.

QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40 12. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (65-95kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­ J­W ­i 22 Split In Your Pocket

Pinjur Located both in Split and Sinj, Restaurant Pinjur has Croatian homemade cuisine written all over it! At affordable prices this self-service eatery also has a special of the day and top-notch homemade cakes and desserts. The prices are affordable and it’s a sure place for a quick meal between places. Also in Sinj, Splitska 39.QE‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 11, www.balinice.hr. Open 06:30 -21:00. (35-60kn). A­P­G­T­U­B­S­W­K ­i Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ (+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (9 - 21kn). N­B­W Sexy Cow With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome ‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the Frenchfries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the locals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.QI‑1, Zrin‑ sko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 07 82, www.sexycow.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 01:00.

(38 - 63kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­J­W­K ­i Superfood Juice&Smoothie Bar Health is wealth and this bar is on par with the best!

Opened in 2016, it’s open from morning till night and the ‘a.m.’ menu includes omelette with goat’s cheese to healthy bread with bio marmalade. Meals at ‘p.m.’ include tuna pizza, veggie burgers, raw cakes, superfood, stews, salads and more. Juices & smoothies are mega! Gluten free, vegans and vegetarians ought to relish this place.

QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 13, tel. (+385-21) 67 12 55.

Open 08:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (11 - 47kn). A­P­G­ T­B­S­W­K ­i Toto’s Burger Bar A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie.

Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu!

Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+38521) 31 40 40. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.

(14 - 87kn). N­P­S­6­W ­i

Pizza Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385-) 099 417 71 91. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (65-95kn). A­P­W Galija The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions.QI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32, www.pizzeriagalija.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (45 140kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W Gušt You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right.

After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again.

There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ‑1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+38521) 48 63 33, www.pizzeria-gust.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (44 - 66kn). A­P­G­6­W Lučica A restaurant with 25 years of family tradition. The prices are fair and while ordering pizza would not be a mistake, we’d recommend to try some of the great grill meat or fish dishes. It’s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QB‑2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63, www.restoranlucica.com. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (60 160kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W Velo misto No 1 Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series.QC‑2, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77. Open 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (30 100kn). A­P­G­X­B­V­6­W ­i facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Vegetarian

ethnic

Galerija Food Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which are all purchased directly from local farmers. The menu is seasonal and adapted to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 098 939 54 18.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (75 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­6­W ­i

Biser Orijenta Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QD‑2, Bihaćka 2a, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76. Open 11:30- 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­X­B­6­W

Makrovega If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg… you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic.QI‑2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, www. makrovega.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 90kn). N­P­G­X­B­V­6­W ­i Marta’s Veggie Fusion The name says it all with a true restaurant dedicated to those who prefer their greens and its value for money! Marta’s offers a breakfast through to dinner menu. Foods of interest include curries, soups, burgers, juices, detox teas, craft beer and more. There are gluten free options available too! Wholesome ingredients really put this up there as one of Split’s best additions to the food scene.QJ‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 8, tel. (+385-) 091 603 07 10, www.martasfusion.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. A­P­G­T­S­J­W­K ­i Up Café An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www. upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. (15 - 45kn). N­P­G­X­B­V­6­W ­i

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

24 Split In Your Pocket

Bistro Samurai Conveniently situated in the city centre and just across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, one can expect the complete Japanese experience in food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, www.sushibarsplit.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (25 - 85kn).

A­P­G­W

Out of town Baletna škola Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.

Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.

QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, www.restoran-baletnaskola.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (35 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W Konoba Bajso Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant is only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby islands.

All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed down generation to generation, and served with the best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars. Service is warm and you don’t feel like another number, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Jesenice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, www.bajso.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn).

A­B­L­W Konoba Nikola A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recommended.QIvankova 42, Stobreč, tel. (+385-21) 32 62 35. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.

(60 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­T­L­6­W split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

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Local Flavour

Soparnik, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

HIT THE MARKET! When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (Pesh kah ria).

Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas. All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, 26 Split In Your Pocket

plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses, homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva. You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket, they’re tasty and healthy too – the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants.

Local Dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market. Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient.

See our guide to food festivals in the Split region (page13).

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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soparnik Soparnik is an old-fashioned Dalmatian dish dating back to the time before the Turks invaded the region. It is a simple dish made by filling two layers of fillo dough with swiss chard, onions, parsley, garlic and olive oil. Traditionally, it was prepared on round wooden plates over a stone hearth on days for fasting, such as Good Friday, Christmas Eve or the Feast of All Saints. Soparnik comes from the former “Peasants’ Republic,” Poljica, which existed in the late Middle Ages, near modern-day Omiš, and was prepared to treat guests and friends. Over the years, it has become a symbol of old Poljica. Once a meal for peasants, it is now a prestigious delicatessen and has been registered Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recently.

What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats.

These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious. A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude.

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Coffee & Cakes

D16 Specialty Coffee Archives

Cafés Fro (isprid banke) Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small interior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 21, www.facebook.com/froispridbanke. Open 07:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-) 098 967 03 11. Open 08:00 - 02:00. N­P­G­X­B­J­6­W HOK Kavana and Gallery Café meets bar meets mini nightclub in the later hours is how best to describe this kavana. Lots of events are held here especially with artists who often have their work showcased and launched to an audience. Musical theme nights are also a catch with rock to pop to retro among the most popular. Come by day or night, you’re bound to catch a cool drink and a good vibe.QD‑2, Kavanjinova 11, tel. (+385-) 092 236 03 24. Open 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. B­W 28 Split In Your Pocket

Lvxor A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are placed on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­W Šetač The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins.

Axes not with standing, the bar’s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P­X­B­W Shisha bar Aktuell With its super equipped interior, modern design and relaxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed when visiting Split. They’ve recently included hookah in their offer and became one of the rare Shisha bars in Split. split.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast throughout summer.

QD‑3, Mile Gojsalića 1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 07:00 - 24:00. N­X­B­6­W ­i Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b. Open 07:30- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. N­P­G­X­B­W

Coffee Shops 4coffee soul food The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful!

Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals reverberate here as the beans that are used and served send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 098 678 77 70, www. facebook.com/4coffeesoulfood. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. W D16 Specialty Coffee Split’s coffee haven is in fine form with amazing reviews on social media. Positioned in the heart of town, D16 Coffee serves 100% Arabica freshly roasted using specialty coffee beans. You can also take your coffee to-go in biodegradable cups or sit down for a break from sightseeing. If you want a cold drink, the cold brew coffee is a hit. It’s not pricey and the quality is excellent. Free wifi available and do check out the mural inside showcasing the history of coffee. QJ-2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-) 091 111 77 88,l www.facebook.com/d16coffee. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

P­G­W ­i

Sweet Treats Goluzarije Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Franko‑ panska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

juice bar Juice Bar Kokolo Excellent fresh juices, fruit salads and cocktails in a prime spot in Diocletian’s palace, close to the waterfront. A great place to pick up some healthy refreshment or enjoy a fruity breakfast.QI‑2/3, Trg Braće Radić 15, tel. (+385-) 091 117 70 19. Open 08:00 01:00. B­J facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Luka Ice-cream & Cakes Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 908 06 78, www.face‑ book.com/lukaicecream. Open 08:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W Mrvu Slađe A very special artisan bakery where the usual offering of doughnuts, mini pizzas and so on is made extraordinary by top quality and creativity. The doughnuts are ultra-light and fillings and toppings are generously applied. A sweet interior and an experience definitely worth seeking out.

QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. (+385-) 095 735 99 87, www. facebook.com/mrvuslade. Open 07:00 - 10:00. J O’š kolač?

Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst working abroad and now returns home where she combines Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, Ćiril-Metodova 4, tel. (+385-21) 48 04 44/(+385-) 099 480 44 45, www.oskolac. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00-22:00. Closed Sun.A­P­G­B­J­6­W Riva The proprietors of Riva meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade delights. Unfortunately, it’s not actually a house - all the pastries are take-away only.QI‑3, Obala hrv. narodnog preporoda 20, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 84.

Open 09:00 - 00:00. N­S Stari Plac Pancakes If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst ‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance. They also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to mentioned freshly squeezed juice. How can you resist that?

Also at E-3,Boškovićeva 9,.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 54 00 88, www.stari-plac.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. A­P­T­B­S­J­W ­i Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. N­P­S Summer 2018

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Nightlife than 100 meters from the seaside promenade, where bars are stacked one next to another up a zigzagging staircase.

With people sitting and mingling on the stairs, the flow of people — though not unpleasantly — slows to a crawl.

This is the ideal place to truly experience the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere that’s typical of Split and its people. If, after all this you’re still in the mood for exploring, the early morning hours is when the nightclubs located outside the palace walls come to life.

Bars Academia Club Ghetto Walk in and be blown away by the hundreds of bobbles hanging off the ceiling, not to mention some super hip art décor on the walls and semi bohemian furniture. A bohemian oasis in the heart of the Diocletian Palace! The drinks menu is whacky with a great offer that covers local to global liquors...

Kickback to world music during the day and then the music turns electro at night.QJ‑2, Dosud 10, www.facebook.com/ clubghetto. Open 10:00-02:00. N­P­X­B­E­J­6­W Noor Bar Archives

During the summer months the nightlife in Split is not only rich and vibrant on the weekends but throughout the week as well. It must be said that due to the countless open-air concerts, festivals, bars and restaurants, spending time with friends and hanging out in the city is done mostly outdoors.

A night out typically begins with a drink on the Riva — the main seaside promenade in front of the old town — or at one of the many popular wine bars which have opened up in recent years. A popular meeting and drinking place for the younger boisterous crowd is at Matejuška — a stone pier jutting out into the sea located less than half way from the old palace walls to the city marina. The night moves on from here and people begin to gravitate towards the many bars tucked inside the walls of the old Roman palace among the tiny labyrinthine streets. Truth be told, the majority of the bars are often very small; with space inside at a premium, crowds prefer to gather in front of the bars themselves. Accommodating bar owners often place benches or cushions outside for people to sit on. This phenomenon is most prevalent along the narrow streets of Get, located less

pub crawl Experience a night out with the help of a local guide and in the company of fellow pub crawlers. Buy a ticket and at the first bar drink all you like for 100 minutes! The next party bar offers a free welcome drink; then it’s on to a club where you party ‘til morning. A leisurely breakfast at legendary local restaurant Fife is also included in the price.QI‑2/3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11, tel. (+385-) 099 549 73 85, www.pubcrawlsplit.net.

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Antique Bar Positioned on the Riva, Antique Bar entwines a tinge of classical design with modern appeal. There seems like a touch of hedonism is in the air and it’s a perfect place to chill for coffee or other finer beverages. Choose to sit indoors or outdoors as people pass on by.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog pre‑ poroda 6, tel. (+385-) 091 151 85 49, www.facebook.com/ antiquebar. Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­X­B­E­W Clo bar Located away from central Split, on the main road leading towards Solin, this urban and modern bar is a great place for a night out. With neon lights vibrating throughout the place, they offer many exciting DJ filled nights with International artists. As well, it’s a great place to sip a relaxing cup of coffee during the day.QF‑2, Domovinskog rata 104b, tel. (+385-) 099 211 02 03. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57, www.facebook.com/cocktailbargaga.

Open 07:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­B­W La Bodega Split With chills and thrills, La Bodega is a stunning wine bar that is comfortable enough to sit and relax, and when the numbers increase, people can choose to stay in or drink outside.

A cosmopolitan / mature crowd gather with live bands performing on certain nights. Tops for warm up drinks or park yourself and stay the entire night.QI‑2, Mihovilova širina 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 44, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­W split.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Pub Crawl Archives

Moon bar Moon Bar has quickly become a hit amongst ‘Splićani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, Ma‑ tice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­L­W

To Je To Located in Old Town Split, come on in and rave like a Roman at the bar with one of the largest selections of Croatian Craft Beers as well as homemade rakija (local grappa) on offer.

Hand roasted coffee available too. Live music is often on the agenda and there is seating available outside for those scintillating hot nights. Btw, ‘To je To’ means ‘That is That’ in English, and that’s that!QI‑2, Nigerova ulica 2, www. tojetosplit.com. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. P­B­E­6­W

Na kantunu Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ‑2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00 01:00, Fri and Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­X­B­6­W

Clubs Central the Club A 360 degree renovation of the former ‘Central’ Cinema has now turned into a two floor nightclub with four bars, VIP lodges and state of the art sound. Each night is theme based from evergreens to disco to world famous DJs playing live. Tops for a perfect all-nighter!QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bu‑ lata bb, tel. (+385-) 091 332 32 34, www.centralclub.hr.

Open 00:30 - 06:00.

ST Riva Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­G­ B­J ­W

Casino Admiral split Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside underground garage, money exchange office, bar lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385) 091 482 22 43, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00. P­G­X­W

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Casino

split.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Gooshter Beach Club As part of the Le Meridien Lav Hotel in Split, Gooshter is beach club where the midday ring of the gong means the start of a new day. Well-tuned DJs, cocktails made on the beach, and a cuisine which fuses East and South merge.

The interior gives attention to the ubiquitous animals from the Mediterranean. The evening programme turns up a notch with entertainment provided throughout the night.

QGrljevačka 2A, Podstrana, tel. (+385-) 091 444 42 01.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. A­X­U­B­E­L­W Hemingway Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsolls won’t even make it past the door.

This is Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC‑2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, www. hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­W Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and do some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. The club was recently renovated.QC‑2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 099 831 30 50. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A­P­G­X­B­W Zenta Club Zenta is outside the city but on the beachfront and is open as a beach bar in the mornings and then transforms into a nightclub when the sun sets. Zenta has multiple floors and a terrace to dance the night away. Themed nights are part and parcel of the event programme and it’s open ‘till 5am every night of the week.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 098 45 55 78, www.zentasplit.com. Open Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­6­W

Pubs Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­W Jazzbina Opened just a year ago, this is Split’s newest pub and has all the makings you would expect of any true interior with wooden bars and beams, brick walls and more. Over 50 types of beers to choose from makes it a true watering hole and you can expect a classic pub menu too. Lots of jazz, blues and rock & roll to hear with live acts on the repertoire. Ohh… and large TVs for sporting events!QI‑2, Sinjska 5, tel. (+385-) 091 595 00 22. Open 12:00 - 02:00. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Sightseeing which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Inside the Vestibule, Photo by Rick Demeis

Essential Split Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt.

Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J‑2.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, 34 Split In Your Pocket

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2.

Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest musplit.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

seum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, www.armus. hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 30/15 kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka.

To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks – a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20/10 kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, www. etnografski-muzej-split.hr. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 20/10 kn.

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous Summer 2018

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Sightseeing krka tours The Krka National Park is astonishingly lovely with its turquoise lakes and waterfalls. After gathering over breakfast at cult waterfront restaurant Fife, an air conditioned bus takes you to the falls with a fun guide who gives you the knowledge along the way and teaches you a few words of Croatian. The price includes a guided tour of the Krka falls (quite a hike!), which includes a break for swimming in the crystal clear river. Please note, the price does not include your entrance ticket to the National Park itself (student discount available with ID).Qtel. (+385-) 091 222 50 66, www.krkatours.com. for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, www. mestrovic.hr. Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family.

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to

the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Museum of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr.

Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, www.mgst.net.

Open 08:30 - 22:00. Admission 22/12 kn.

Galleries

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Archives

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Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating recreation of the artist’s former studio – including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, www.galerija-vidovic.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00. Admission 22/12 kn.

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

Churches Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.

The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) Just inside the Iron Gates inside Diocletian’s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It’s bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.QI‑2, Bajamontijeva 1.

The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude).

The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.

The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass Sun: 08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. (+38521) 38 13 77, www.samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Landmarks Grgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Summer 2018

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Sightseeing Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

Medieval Military Patrol over the North Wall of Diocletian’s Palace (Ophod - srednjovjekovni vojni ophod nad sjevernim zidom Dioklecijanove palače) A walkway was built on top of the north wall of Diocletian’s palace in the 15th century to allow a patrol to guard the city which had grown up from Diocletian’s palace. The view from the walkway is unforgettable. For information on ticket prices and opening times, or for an individual guided tour or group visit (up to 10 people) led by a Museum guide, please call the Split City Museum on (+385-21) 36 01 71. Q www.mgst.net. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Admission 42/22kn.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Photo by Josip Tomas

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Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud) Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fan base around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team’s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to cheer’), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as bili, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform. Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players.

In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was declared as a protected cultural monument of the Republic of Croatia. QC‑2.

Prokurative (Trg Republike) Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neoRenaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.QI‑2, Trg Republike.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Dalmatian Zagora

Feast of the Assumption , Sinj Tourist Board Archives

When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) – but also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture.

The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheep-rearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although the term conveys a positive sense of facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

hardy self-reliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity.

The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland. Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquiscovered plateau. However it’s also an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth.

The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’ legs from Trilj. As far as local drink Summer 2018

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Dalmatian Zagora Imotski If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled with water – the level of which rises and falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.

Photo by Boris Erceg, Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives

Museum Alka of Sinj Archives Board Archives

Photo by Ilija Veselica, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

is concerned, Bibich, with vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly soughtafter. There’s also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated – indeed Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple. What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

Ten must-visit places Drniš A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.

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Knin A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww. tz-knin.hr.

Krka National Park With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time – especially if you have your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.

Sinj A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracle-working icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.Qwww.visitsinj.com.

Skradin Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Park and an attraction in itself – a typical Mediterranean town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.Qwww.skradin.hr.

The Cetina Gorge Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water split.inyourpocket.com

Dalmatian Zagora

sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.

Qwww.tz-omis.hr.

Vrgorac Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and military captains (Vrgorac was on the border between the Venetian and Ottoman Empires) to serve as both living space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone houses and dry stone walls, is be-

museum alka of sinj Nominated for European Museum of the Year, the Museum of Alka represents a 300 year traditional equestrian race where spearmen target their lances at a hanging metal ring in full gallop. Of note are the uniforms, equipment and weapons used, as well as historic statues and rules that have remained since the beginning. The procession preceding the Alka and the reconstruction of the Battle of Sinj from 1715 pays homage to the grand history behind this age old city.QPut Petrovca 12, Sinj, tel. (+385-21) 44 47 30, www.alka.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20 kn. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

ing developed as an ethno-village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.

Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.

Vrlika Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park.

The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.

Qwww.visitvrlika.com.

Zagvozd Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences. Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.

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Split Surroundings North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in an-

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cient olive groves and is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured area.

Marina Tourist Board QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, www.tzmarina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old

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town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history.

While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

cable park split One of the newest sensations to hit the tourist offer is this Cable Park, better defined as a complex suited for adrenaline activities on the sea and in particular the aerial craft of wakeboarding. It’s 500 m long with 5 piers and turns for loads of fun. Equipment can be rented and there is a cafe bar on site for food and beverages which will come in handy after some outdoor action. QDivulje Beach, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 58 61 44, 091 202 90 79, www.cablepark-split. com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. (120 - 250kn). A facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Trogir Tourist Board QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, www. visittrogir.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Čiovo Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts.

After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great music, for a fun night out.

Okrug Tourist Board QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21) 88 73 11, www.tzo-okrug.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

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Solin

primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there.

Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history.

According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”. Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country.

Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its

Solin Tourist Board QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, www. solin-info.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Kaštela Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

Kaštel Stari Tourist Information Centre QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+385-21) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, www.kastela-info.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A - 1 highway. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

South of Split Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle and face some of the islands.

Podstrana Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods. Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.

Podstrana Tourist Board QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, www. visitpodstrana.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

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Split Surroundings Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different story to tell.

Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island,

the vranjača cave The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round.

Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March).

Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information.

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not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.

The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. Šolta Tourist Info Center QObala sv.Tereze 3, Rogač, tel. (+385-21) 65 44 91, www.visitsolta.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Mon and Wed 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 07:30 - 21:30.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest. If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape).

It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules. Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what’s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.

The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. If you are going to be on Brač for a week there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agrotourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, www.supetar.hr.

Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Jakšić Gallery, Donji Humac, Brač island

jakšić gallery Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop. Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carving workshop from his father and modernizes it according to time. Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to create a space in which they can exhibit their works.

Jakšić gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house, where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating works of art and stone shaping. In the gallery you can find: unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by dr.art.

Dina Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects made of stone.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pa50 Split In Your Pocket

kleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here. The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form.

On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley.

On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within

150 Years of Organized Tourism It was in 1868 that the Graz-based botanist Franz Unger inspired the foundation of the Hvar Hygienic Society, the first step in promoting the island as a health resort. It was initially a winter destination attracting chesty Central Europeans on account of its mild climate and salty sea air. Only in the later 20th century did it become the fashionable summer playground we know today. The actual anniversary was in May, but there will be commemorative events and exhibitions throughout the summer. Qwww.tzhvar.hr. split.inyourpocket.com

OMIŠ Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish intia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century. until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churchknown as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and innot always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava) into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica. still plenty of adventure to be had And when you’re finished exploring in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s eas around the town make for great history, the town’s central location Trg kneza Miroslava b.b., hiking spots, the water is an invitmakes it a perfect starting point for tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, ing crystalline blue and the history the rest of your Dalmatian coast of the town can be explored in the adventure, hopefully minus any info@visitomis.hr remnants of fortresses (like Mirabedreams of terrorizing the seas as a www.visitomis.hr la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Split Surroundings

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points The Nin Salt Works Archives of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness.

Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is 52 Split In Your Pocket

worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini. On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).

Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.

The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.

Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Hvar Tourist Board QTrg Sv. Stjepana 42, 21450 Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 10 59, www.tzhvar.hr/. Open 08:00-20:00, Sun 10:00 12:00, 16:00- 18:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

Photo by Velid Jakupović, Nature Park Telašćica Archives

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Split Surroundings Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty.

The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila, Kaštela Tourist Board Archives

Svetac, Photo by Bojan - Haron

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Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.

Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form.

Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.

Vis Tourist Board QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, www.tzvis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

TZ Brela Archives

Makarska Riviera Here you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic

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Makarska Riviera Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism. If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea.

Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.

This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local wine. Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains.

After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The build-

Windsurfing, Photo by Rikardo Škorlić

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ing of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe. In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine. As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići. Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a trip inland and discover the ageold culture of the region. Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports.

Summertime calls!

Baška Voda Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.

With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children.

There’s plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on. Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront.

The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here – the latter named the town Aronia. Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today.

This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s also a museum of shells – the Malacological Museum. The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel – just bring your own container! When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići – themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake.

Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in oldfashioned taverns. They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica.

Baška Voda Tourist Board QObala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@bas‑ kavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible. This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades. Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there Brela Tourist Board QTrg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous – it’s a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island – it’s best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St. George in the old hillside settlement.

Drvenik Tourist Board QDonja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik. hr, www.drvenik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

arriving on the makarska riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away.

The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer.

For timetable information, see www.split-airport. hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 18kn in one direction for a car from Split, 199kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www. hznet.hr.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija.hr.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 – 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn for the first hour, 1,50kn for each additional hour.QAnte Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 09:00, 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:30. July, Au‑ gust Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connectotaxi.com.

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Makarska Riviera Gradac When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St. Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St. Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language.

Gradac Tourist Information Centre QTrg Soline 11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75, gradac@gradac. hr, www.gradac.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Makarska As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.

There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started

Padlocks of love Makarska, Photo by Philippe Renaud

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to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays.

Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.

There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.

The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today. Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St. Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St. Philip. The church of St. Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights. What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea.

You’ll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike. Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.

Makarska Tourist Board QObala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, info@makarska-info.hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Open 08:00 - 20:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Podgora Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain. With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer – it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It’s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist’s holy trinity. This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park. Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice – a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal – a critically endangered species.

Igrane – barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks. There’s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking. Živogošće – Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.

Podgora Tourist Board QAndrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, tzpodgora@st.t-com.hr, www.tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:00 - 13:00.

Tučepi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera – a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water. Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera – the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore.

The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup.

Tučepi Tourist Board Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.tcom.hr, www.tucepi.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00-22:00.

essential makarska Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, www.mdc.hr/ makarska/index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. July and August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs – a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world.

So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passerby, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 15/10 kn.

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Makarska Riviera the biokovo nature park The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska – Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged – wear strong shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centre Makarska: phone (+385-21) 61 69 24.

Presentation Centre Adrion - Heart of the Mountain Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 20:00, Closed Mon. Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of Kotišina Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. Open by prior arrangement.

The Kotišina Botanical Garden This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990), and is part of an educational trail he also created. Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a heavy fall of rain.

There’s a 17th century fortress, a protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony’s (20th C). Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly demanding walk.

The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school.

Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makar‑ ska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, www.galerija-antun-gojak. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Admission free.

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The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevcisplit.hr.

Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac.

They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić.

The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the censplit.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera tenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.

In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu)) Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.

Stone Tower (Kamena kula) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.

The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska’s central square. His statue’s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.

Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.

The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

The Seagull’s Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent 62 Split In Your Pocket

the vepric shrine On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September.

right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.QPodgora.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma) A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun, Makarska.

The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska. split.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Art galleries Atelier Mikulić Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.

QC‑2, Teslina 14b, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75. Open by prior arrangement. N Jakšić Gallery The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www.galerijajaksic. com. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Jaman Art Centar Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the JAMAN art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed images.

The approach here is based on current trends in ‘New PopArt’ which focuses on using heightened colours when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY registration plates, vinyl panels, chains… Also at I-2, Šubićeva 3. QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, www.jaman-art.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. A Studio Naranča Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, www.studionaranca. com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A

Croatian design Arterija Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion design store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regularly and she also promotes the works of some of Croatia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with passion!QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 547 71 41. Open 10:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Shopping Ledenko Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail handmade Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be the winning formula for that special occasion.QI‑2, Zadarska 4, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Jakšić Gallery Archives

Think Pink One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at its best! Also at J-2, Marulićeva 1, Open 09:00 - 22:30.QI‑2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

From July 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A­J

Delicatessen Blato 1902 Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija from the Blato 1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QD‑2, Domovin‑ skog rata 31, www.blato1902.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Atelier Vasko Lipovac Archives

Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage. Also at I-2, Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).QJ‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Koza unikati The word koza means ‘goat’, a symbol of the Croatian region of Istria, and this family business has it as their logo.

The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wallets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing machine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14 99. Open 09:30 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A

Enoteka Terra A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic delicacies.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 48 00, www.vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Nadalina Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious, may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, www.nadalina.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. A

Chocolate Diocletian’s Palace, Kraš Archives

shopping centres City Center one QVukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, www. citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Joker Centre QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/ (+385-21) 39 69 10, www.joker.hr. Open 09:00 21:00.

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Now you can be emperor of your very own Roman palace! And once you’re done addressing your centurions you can devour the palace in its white chocolatey entirety. But never fear – the gorgeous box with a floorplan of the palace and booklet in Croatian and English remains.

This creation is the work of a sculptor based on proper architectural research, and is executed by leading chocolate company Kraš. Find this astonishing souvenir in their shop at Narodnitrg 6.

split.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Pipi Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked its 80th production anniversary in Croatia.

With its long history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 54/(+385-) 091 411 22 44, www.dalmacijavino. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tea House Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.

Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 14:30. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs Atelier Perajica Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner Ana has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian

flea market Strossmayer Park (Đardin) You never know what you can find but by attending this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of Split’s inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep.

See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other rare things that are up for sale. The fair becomes especially popular and lively during the summer months, when the city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

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artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Break Time - Nautical Bracelets For an exceptional souvenir from Split you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QI‑2, Trogirska 8, tel. (+385-) 097 681 39 77, www.nautical-bracelets. com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

Dancing Bear Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 09, www. dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 14:00. A Nered Chic antique! Selection of wonderful decorative items from ceramics, jewellery, bags , greeting cards, stationery and hundreds of other products all made by designers and artisans from Croatia.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385) 099 194 92 48, www.neredshop.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Spalato The authentic store perfect for that take home memoir souvenir! Popular items include handcrafted glass, jewellery made of Brač stone, Adriatic shellfish, and Istrian bull horns just to name a few.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A split.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay hotels In Croatia hotels aregraded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with reasonable prices nearby.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swimming pool are frequently provided.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main attractions. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car park, gym and one or more swimming pools.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation.

Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist is also on duty 24 hours.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island's beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests' needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

Private accommodation In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

aim to attract guests all year round.

Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families.

The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croatian coast include great value for money and direct contact with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury apartments. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking).

Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.

When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools. Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

Hostels Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it's only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Photo by Bojan - Haron

By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for 68 Split In Your Pocket

no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line RijekaSplit-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.

QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, www.krilo.hr.

Open 06:00 - 20:00. J MSC Krstarenja SNAV agent runs the Split–Ancona ferry line.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, www.msckrstarenja. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma‑ goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 99, www.ak-split.hr.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E - 65 on international road maps and as A - 1 inside Croatia. The route on the A - 1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 181 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E - 70 to Zagreb, then hit the A - 1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E - 70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E - 61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E - 61, which will facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E - 65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A - 1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

By plane Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.

Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.

Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip.

Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twentyminute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.splitairport.hr.

Brač Airport (Zračna luka Brač) Location: 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar.

QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, www.airport-brac.hr. From June 1 Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri and Sun 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. From June 16 Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri and Sun 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00.

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead Summer 2018

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:00 or a night train from Split at 21:43, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good

tourist information Tourist Information Centre Tourist information centre at Peristil.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, www.visitsplit.com.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Tourist Information Centre Tourist Information Centre at Riva.QD‑3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Split Tourist Board QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00 32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, www.dalmatia.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 70 Split In Your Pocket

for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split.

Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.

Promet Split QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, www. promet-split.hr.

Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting.

There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 – 6kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 – 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4).

Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www. promet-split.hr.

Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke 67A (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 450 - 650kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office is open around the clock.Qtel. (+385-21) 37 68 48. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Basics Customs

Roads

There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50€.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcafé culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual.

Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Visas Croatian visa policy is fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

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