Split In Your Pocket City Guide No16

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split Summer 2019

CARE LESS this summer #bolimepipi Beaches, Festivals & Activities

N°16 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Health Tourism

32

Marvie Hotel & Health

Top Summer Events 5

Split Surroundings 34

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay

The top getaways

My Life In Art

9

Makarska Riviera 47

An interview with Dina Jakšić Pavasović

All in a day

Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI 10

Top Places To Shop 53

Beaches, festivals & activities

Restaurants

13

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Coffee & Cakes

22

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife 24 Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing

27

Priceless places and buys

Arrival & Getting Around

58

SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here

Split Basics Keepn it real

Maps

City map City centre map County map

61 62-64 65 66

Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

Cetina River, Photo by Milan Šabić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. See page 34.

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Foreword Foreword With thousands of locals and visitors funneled daily through the narrow alleys that make up its historic core, Split in summertime is one of those bustling, sweaty, vibrant Mediterranean cities that becomes more addictive the longer you stay. Indeed its take-off as a tourist destination has been so rapid that many are beginning to question whether Split still is the grittily authentic Dalmatian port it used to be.

Such fears are a little bit on the snobbish side: Split people rather like foreign visitors, and the city is in any case big enough to absorb the commercial aspects of tourism without losing too much of its gruff personality. Squeezed between a pungent fish market at one end and a large, boisterous fruit-and-veg market at the other, Split’s ancient centre is not in any immediate danger of becoming a tourist-only zone. Locals are constantly rushing through it with their shopping bags, brushing past the fork lift-style trucks that deliver supplies to the shops and boutiques squeezed into its tight alleys. The palm-splashed seafront Riva is the city’s idea of a huge municipal open-air living room-cumoffice space, filled with locals exchanging gossip, making calls, doing business while sitting at a café table, or simply checking out what everybody else is wearing.

So if there’s one city in Europe where you can simply switch off and go with the flow, it’s Split.

COver story Pakleni islands are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected. The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.

6 Split In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split

Summer 2019

CARE LESS thiS SummER #boLimEpipi

Beaches, Festivals & Activities

N°16 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Split In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Siniša Pavić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © shutterstock.com, Pakleni Islands off Hvar, pristine

beach on remote island, crystal clear water with yachts, aerial view Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić croatia@inyourpocket.com

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication.

Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Photo by Zoran Baković, KUD Jedinstvo Archives

Top Summer Events ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN split AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS...

Top Summer Events 01.05 - 01.10 » Šotobraco Splitom For a true cultural experience, every Thursday evening, a group of acclaimed dancers from the ‘Jedinstvo’ Folk Ensemble present famous old dances and choreographies from the Split area as accompanied by a walking mandolin orchestra. See the performers wear classical folk costumes considered priceless by many. The ensemble starts off a the back entry of the Croatian National Theater and in an almost procession like fashion moves to 5 different locations through the night bringing much joy to all. Qwww. kud-jedinstvo.hr.

15.06 - 01.10 » The Night of Croatian Folklore Ever since 2006, 45 folk ensemble performers accompanied by a mandolin orchestra perform a 90 minute set which takes place on the central stage of the main Riva.

The program is composed of 9 dance choreographies from all parts of Croatia. Dances are performed in authentic folk costumes and for each of them performers change their costumes as a contribution to an unforgettable experience.QI‑3, Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda, www.kud-jedinstvo.hr.

17.05 - 27.09 » Days of Diocletian Let’s backtrack to the Antiquity period when the mighty Roman Emperor Diocletian resided in Split. See his legionnaires in action setting up their guard on city streets and squares; or witness the Emperor travel via carriage. The sounds of fanfare, drums and Roman music echo throughout the city squares and streets which are filled with street performers, live concerts and more...Qwww.visitsplit. com.

28.06 - 08.09 » Revija Urbane Kulture – Evo Ruke!

During the peak season, head to Đardin at the Strossmayerov perivoj for a sense of urban music and culture. From pop and hip-hop to jazz and other genres, a plethora of top Croatian musicians and performers will deliver their melancholy/hypnotic/bumpy/ groovy sounds and feel to the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, www.revija-urbane-kulture.com.

13.06 - 22.06 » The 12th Split Mediterranean Film Festival For 12 year straight, this festival of full-length and short film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider that screenings take place on the beach with the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket!QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dom mladih, www.fmfs.hr.

05.07 - 06.07 » Fibra Festival Its round 2 after last year’s inauguration of this relatively new festival, Fibra (which in local dialect means ‘having a temperature’, or in this case, ‘the summer heat’) is all about bringing the best of urban culture to the forefront.

Top regional bands and artists, from rock and hip hop to even electronic beats, live it up on Bačvice beach this coming July. QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Preradovićevo šetalište 6.

Photo by Ivan Alebić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

8 Split In Your Pocket

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Top Summer Events 18.07 - 08.09 » An Artist at Meštrović’s - Kuzma Kovačić The exhibition cycle is about an artist who takes and creates his works inside of Meštrović’s gallery. The fusion between a master’s works and one’s own style is what Kuzma Kovačić intends on doing. Kovačić adds his own visions to the motifs of Meštrović’s sculptures and also speaks in detail of Meštrović’s life, his realities, events and beliefs.

QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr.

Photo by Zoran Baković, KUD Jedinstvo Archives

20.07 20:00 » GusGus Live Though having toured in Croatia beforehand, the Icelandic duo GusGus perform in Split for the first time! These gents produce a unique electronic sound which has made them household names in such circles. This unconventional fusion of techno, trip-hope and house, successfully integrates with other genres of music, and their own style is called techno-soul.QJ‑1, Cornaro Rampart, Zagrebačka ulica 1a, 190 - 350kn.

Photo by Rudgrcom, Ultra Europe Festival Archives

12.07 - 14.07 » Ultra Europe Festival Split’s Poljud stadium once again reverberates to the booming bass of this Adriatic-hopping festival (other Ultra events will be held on Vis and Hvar), with tens of thousands of revelers enjoying the best that the electronic dance music world can throw at them. Armin Van Buuren, Carl Cox, David Guetta, Nicky Romero, Swedish House Mafia and more.QD/C‑2, Poljud Stadium, www.ultraeurope.com.

14.07 - 14.08 » The 65th Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad.QI‑1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Little Fish, The 12th Split Mediterranean Film Festival Archives

Miljenko i Dobrila, Kaštela Tourist Board Archives

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Top Summer Events County Events SUMMER » Kino Mediteran A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular we mourn the loss of open air cinemas which offered the particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for six years now been reinstituting cinemas Dalmatia, with cinemas in 30 towns open during the summer, and 10 of those open throughout the year. The films on show are the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project grow and grow! Kino Mediteran Pirovac, Kino Mediteran Omiš, Kino Mediteran Podgora,Kino Mediteran Imotski, Kino Mediteran Ploče, Kino Mediteran Bol, Kino Mediteran Supetar, Kino Mediteran Hvar, Kino Mediteran Jelsa, Kino Mediteran Komiža, Kino Mediteran Lastovo.Qwww.kinomediteran.hr.

25.07 - 27.07 » Graffiti Na Gradele Bol on Brač island, with its paradise beach, is the place where graffiti and Dalmatian culture collide – Graffiti on the Grill!QBol, Brač island.

01.08 - 09.08 » The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death. When true love never dies then it’s up to those who are present to help ensure that the memories are not forgotten. Kaštelani (or town folk from the town of Kaštela) have for generations kept this wonderful legend alive which is vindicated by this festival. QKaštel Lukšić, www.kastela-info.hr.

Children’s Alka, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

10 Split In Your Pocket

traditional events 28.06 - 20.07 » Festival of Dalmatian klapa Omiš Groups of singers called klape singing the most melodious of songs from the high pitched tenor to the low bass, and together they create angelic music without the use of instruments, music from the soul. For over four weeks, klapa ensembles will serenade tourists down the cobbled stone paths of the city and the true final competition will be held mid-July. This is a must see if in town as klapa singing is now recognised and protected by UNESCO since its inclusion into the Representative List of Intangible Heritage. QOmiš www.fdk.hr.

04.08 » Sinjska Alka The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the Alka competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

15.08 » Feast of the Assumption Croatians have for centuries prayed and thanked the Blessed Virgin Mary for her intercession and the city of Sinj is one of our major Marian sanctuaries. The Feast of the Assumption is a mega event as thousands flock to the city for the major procession; some pilgrims arrive bare foot whilst the first mass is said at 4am and much more. A sense of true holiness can be found here!QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

02.08 - 04.08 » Voi’Sa Festival An eclectic selection of sounds, with funk, soul, latin, dub, reggae, disco, boogie, house and electronic music all represented at Supetar’s Acapulco beach (Brač island).QAcapulco Beach, Supetar, Brač island, www.voisafestival.com.

18.08 » The Pirate Battle of Omiš The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th century and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.”

The role-playing battle describes the fight between the Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omiš, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omiš and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chanted the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port, Omiš, www.visitomis.hr. split.inyourpocket.com

My Life In Art of the folk customs that is slowly disappearing. The entire research is embodied in a work of art and implemented on one road. It is a road linking two neighbouring towns, Donji Humac and Nerežišća, and it was that particular road that has always fascinated me because it is a place of memory (both individual and collective). In fact, the whole study and work is about the cultural identity of a local community.

Dina Jakšić Pavasović

Dina Jakšić Pavasović SIYP: Dear Dina, can you briefly present yourself to our readers?

Dina: I am a painter, though I often change the medium of expression. I come from the island of Brač but I do not reside their permanently. I studied in Rome at the Accademia di Belle Arti and then graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb. I am very active on the art scene, but I prefer to exhibit in unusual spaces such as quarries, abandoned houses and even sculptural workshops. I am currently devoted to working at an art studio.

SIYP: Can you tell us something about your new stone work?

Dina: First, I must point out that stone masonry has been running in my family for 116 years. When you are surrounded by stone since childhood, you cannot remain indifferent but you fall in love with this material. What is different in my works is that I combine stone and colour and as a result I get interesting stone drawings. Last year, I displayed new works to the public for the first time with an exhibition at my father’s workshop. By choosing a workshop as an exhibition space, I wanted to emphasise our family tradition of working with stone and focus attention on the process rather than the final artefacts.

SIYP: And in the end, where can we visit you and find your works?

Dina: Most of my works are exhibited in our family galleries. We own two galleries, the first is Jakšić Gallery located in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. It was built more than ten years ago in the backyard of our family house next to our ateliers and workshops. The second gallery was opened four years ago in the centre of Split. In the galleries, besides my works, there are also sculptures made by my brother Lovre, jewellery by my mother Ida and many other interesting stone objects.

SIYP: When did your love of art awaken, especially towards painting?

Dina: It is difficult to say when exactly, it seems to me that it has always existed, perhaps because of the fact that I was born and raised in an artistic family, so love of art has been present throughout my life. However, a love for painting was born through education at a time when I was discovering my own free expression. We are all looking to find ourselves in a particular medium or an expression, and I have found myself in colours and in free art forms.

SIYP: Do the surroundings of the island of Brač and the town of Split affect your inspiration when creating new works? Are there any places or customs on the island that inspire you in particular?

Dina: It certainly does have an influence; I think the environment always affects the artist as does the production of his or her works, either directly through a certain concept or through the mediation of certain filters that transform reality into a new dimension. Both of those factors are present in my works. The first one relates to my doctoral dissertation in which the island’s identity; and the cultural heritage of dowry on the island of Brač is one facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Dina Jakšić Pavasović, Jakšić Gallery Archives

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Pipi Archives

CARE LESS THIS SUMMER #BOLIMEPIPI ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER festivals, beach bars, beaches & activities

Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI what is #bolimepipi?

Scientists tell us that stress is the most dangerous illness of our times. But there is a place where stress is almost completely unknown. A place where they live like there is no tomorrow. And they drink a drink thanks to which they can say about all the problems of modern life – I don’t give a Pipi! #bolimepipi That city is Split. The best-known drink from Split is a fizzy orange drink named Pipi, after Astrid Lindgren’s heroine Pippi Longstocking. Pipi was created at the beginning of the 1970s to make the magical Split summer even more carefree, more relaxed. And when former Miss World contestant Ana Sasso rested a straw peeking out of a bottle of Pipi against her lips in one of its legendary ads it became clear – we don’t give a Pipi!

#bolimepipi tone of voice When you come to Split, to Dalmatia, make like you’re from Spit, a Dalmatian! Simply master these few items of wisdom and your pace of life will return to normal. All right, maybe a little slower than normal…

‘KO TO MOŽE PLATIT! - “MONEY CAN’T BUY THAT!” A sunny day is coming to an end. The sun is setting over the sea. You have the scent of pines in your nose, the sound of the sea in your ears. A damp swimming costume in your hand, a towel and a bottle of Pipi. Money can’t buy that!

The Split riva (waterfront). Saturday, around noon. Your sunglasses perched on your head. You’re on the terrace of your favourite café. The waiter is on his way with your espresso and your bottle of Pipi. You have all the time in the world. Beautiful women and handsome men stroll by.

Money can’t buy that!

An ordinary kitchen in the home of an ordinary Split family. Pršut, cheese, wine and anchovies on the table. Friends around the table. Laughter, lively conversation. Money can’t buy that! Not even all the money in the world, because here not everything is for sale.

POMALO - TAKE IT EASY In some places perhaps time is money, but not in Split!

Here people greet each other in passing with “pomalo” – take it easy! It’s a greeting, a wish and a warning – there is no place for rushing. Easy, slowly, relaxed! By the sea you live in slow motion. It’s a question of the lifestyle and the experience which teaches you that nothing and no-one will be taken away from you if you take it – easy. You work easy, walk easy and you drink in the Mediterranean. There is always time for one more Pipi!

FJAKA Fjaka is an important and untranslateable concept in Dalmatia. Fjaka is a meteorological, psychological and physical facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

state when in your body and your mind you feel like doing – nothing. When the fjaka takes hold, put all your jobs to one side, take a nap, rest. Fjaka is not quite a siesta because it’s not exactly about sleeping. It’s a state not too far from nirvana. So give yourself up to the fjaka and flow with it.

Slow things right down. Because, #WhoGivesAPipi?

#bolimepipi BEACHES There are very few cities which boast so many diverse beaches right in the very centre as Split. If you arrive at the train station, coach station or port, after three minutes’ walk you are on the sands of Bačvice beach! Bačvice is Split’s Copacabana, a legendary sandy beach where young and old alike love to splash around. Some will paddle, others make sandcastles or get into a game of picigin (a local ballgame played in the shallows). Or perhaps read a newspaper in the shade. Here, in 1981, a famous ad was filmed for Pipi.

We grew up with the image of Ana Sasso rising out of the sea in a white wet T-shirt emblazoned with the logo – Pipi!

In the next cove is Ovčica beach, ideal for families with children. A little further is Firule where a dilemma awaits with a choice of sandy and rocky bathing areas, known by locals as “pancakes and potatoes”. The road leads to Zenta, a little harbour where wild games of water polo and dances are held for years. The people of Split, when it comes to beaches, are notoriously picky. Bene beach is where you go for peace and shade, Kašuni for sunshine and socialising, and if you simply must be seen the place to go is Žnjan. Wherever you go there is sun and sea, and islands in the distance.

And for us too, until the morning calm and the serene early evening. It’s a perfect time for a deep breath and the even deeper conclusion: I don’t give a Pipi, #bolimepipi.

#bolimepipi FESTIVALS Festivals! If it was just a case of the Split festival itself where the greatest Croatian singers have sung... You can’t catch the Split rhythm if you don’t at least know one song by Oliver or Mišo Kovač. And Pipi is the perfect accompaniment to any song. It goes with hip hop, jazz, rock, concerts in Split or Brač island’s coves. I don’t give a Pipi when I’m dancing, singing or writing graffiti!

Ultra Europe Festival Born in Split in 2013, Ultra now happens in 20 countries across Europe. The dance music elite take over venues in Split and the neighbouring islands for seven days of electronic hedonism.

Voi’Sa Festival An eclectic selection of sounds, with funk, soul, latin, dub, reggae, disco, boogie, house and electronic music all represented at Supetar’s Acapulco beach (Brač island).

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Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI Olive Tree This atmospheric restaurant and bar on the city centre waterfront has excellent, imaginative food and warm service.

Joe’s Beach Lounge & Bar At Kašjuni beach, on one side is a lively cocktail bar, on the other a more laid-back lounge bar. Both fab places for eating, drinking, dancing, socializing and lazing away the summer days in style.

Ovčice In the intimate Ovčica cove next to Bačvice, this café has been a favourite meeting spot of the people of Split for decades and is a bastion of rock music.

Pipi Archives

Kavana Procaffe Coffee and excellent home-made cakes to the tune of the water lapping at the boats in Spinut harbour.

Graffiti Na Gradele Bol on Brač island, with its paradise beach, is the place where graffiti and Dalmatian culture collide – Graffiti on the Grill!

Fro isprid banke Of the cafés and bars that line the city waterfront, Fro (isprid banke – in front of the bank) is one of the standouts, popular with locals. So bring your outsize sunglasses!

Kula Kula This new festival in Trogir celebrates Croatia’s excellent alternative music scene. Some of its finest and longest-lived bands provide the soundtrack to summertime shenanigans.

Mythos bar A wonderful place to eat, drink and contemplate the meaning of life in Firule Bay.

Split Mediterranean Film Festival Ten days and nights of film from the Mediterranean region, under the stars on Bačvice beach or at the Golden Gate cinema.

#bolimepipi BEACH CAFÉS AND BARS

Cox bar Cocktails, coffee and music on the popular Žnjan beach, this is a pleasant beach bar with loungers and food available too.

Jadran Beach Bar Head west from the city centre along the waterfront towards Marjan hill, and you come to this lively beach bar with a little place you can swim.

Your favourite drink in your favourite café is Split’s favourite remedy for your woes! Because all that chatting about… everything… is simply a life necessity. The café Žbirac is a little piece of shady heaven with a view of the bathers at Bačvice. Dvor in Firule offers peace, quiet and a sea view.

Coffee in Spinut has the rhythm of the boats being rocked by the waves. There are cafés where you can go in casual dress and cafés with a dress code… Whichever you choose, life is beautiful!

#bolimepipi ACTIVITIES

Žbirac This legendary café has the best vantage spot on Bačvice beach and serves great coffee with a smile.

The Marjan park forest has promenades and biking trails.

Uphill, downhill, on gravel and tarmac, through forests, along the waterside and through pines. And here you’ll find the Museum of Senses, so you can challenge your senses to experience what they have never experienced before while you wonder if such a thing is even possible. An open mind is a miraculous thing. Because it’s summer, and you don’t give a Pipi.

Dvor People rave about this café and restaurant in the Firule Bay for its fabulous food and drink, as well as the perfect beachside location.

14 Split In Your Pocket

An active holiday requires wisely chosen activities. First and foremost, you should learn to play picigin, that most local of Split games, on the sands of Bačvice bay. The rules are simple, you just stand in the shallows and hurl yourself after the little ball, making sure it doesn’t fall into the sea. Expert players make it so attractive that the audience gasps. While picigin is being played, nothing else in the world matters!

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Restaurants

Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails Archives

Restaurants All those who favor iće & piće have the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants the inspiration that connects to me, the team I work with, the restaurant, and of course, the demands and needs of the guests who are growing in numbers each year and whose demands are even greater.

SIYP: What is your favourite Croatian dish and why?

Ivica: My favourite Croatian dish is Skradinski rižot (Skradin risotto). It is a dish that is unusual and demanding to make, it is extremely tasty and can be varied in preparation.

SIYP: What inspires you in creating new meals at Zoí restaurant?

Ivica: I am inspired by the very special allure and position of the restaurant, and the desire for guests to try something they will probably never taste again; a special fusion of flavours that remain in one’s memory.

Photo by Mario Mehuljic, Zoí Restaurant Archives

The Art of Mediterranean Cuisine It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experience, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine, and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just beneath you. That this is an unforgettable and sensual experience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. Q J‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385-21) 63 74 91, www.zoi.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (75 - 250kn).

A­P­T­B­J­6­W­i

Ivica Katić - chef SIYP: What inspired you to become a chef? How did you start out?

Ivica: Since my early childhood, I loved to play in the kitchen with my family and when it was time to decide on a future path, the answer was very clear –‘I want to be a Chef!’

In the beginning, it was very difficult to decide on what to do, which road to take? So I did all kinds of jobs and gained various experiences across various types of restaurants and hotels in Croatia and abroad.

SIYP: What is your philosophy of food?

Ivica: My food philosophy is that there is something special in each dish, in its appearance and mostly in taste. Therefore, I combine Mediterranean cuisine by using primarily local ingredients with some international influences. Every dish and menu that I develop is my own creation and reflects on 16 Split In Your Pocket

SIYP: What are your recommendations when choosing a dish from the Zoí menu?

Ivica: As I’ve mentioned before, every dish is special in its own way. Personally, I would recommend that guests relax and try what seems most appealing to them, whether it be a meat, fish, soup or an appetiser... Whatever you choose, you will not be mistaken!

Tina Mršić - pastry chef A pastry chef at the Zoí restaurant who is passionate about her job which fills her with delight, and what makes her most happy is when guests feel the beauty of the desserts she prepares.

SIYP: Where did you find inspiration in becoming a pastry chef?

Tina: I found inspiration in my mother’s desserts since she too is a pastry chef and I have loved sweets and desserts ever since my early childhood.

SIYP: What are your favourite flavour combinations?

Tina: My favourite flavour combination is vanilla and caramel.

SIYP: What is your favourite Croatian dessert?

Tina: My favourite Croatian desert is the Zagreb Chocolate Cake.

SIYP: Which homemade ingredient do you feel is not being used as much but could make for a great dessert?

Tina: The fig is little used in today’s desserts and for this reason we have decided to make a great dessert made of figs.

SIYP: Which desserts that encompass authentic ingredients from the menu would you recommend to Zoí guests?

Tina: Certainly our new dessert with fig. A light vanilla cream with mascarpone cheese, figs with prošek and a touch of lavender. Ingredients that represent Dalmatia have been combined into a beautiful light dessert. split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

WHEN YOU WANT TO STOP TIME THIS IS THE PLACE TO BE With Diocletian’s wall on one side, amazing view of the harbour on the other, and a flurry of Mediterranean cuisine happening right in front of you, let your biggest worry be which delicious meal to choose.

The only thing you’ll have to do is bring good mood and good company, leave the rest to us.

Let your expectations be surpassed and your senses surprised.

MICHELIN recommended restaurant.

Reservations: +385 21 63 74 91 www.zoi.hr

Bring this page when you dine with us and receive 10% off facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019

17

Restaurants Croatian Bajamonti Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.

Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate each of the tables based on the season and they also hold various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, www.restoranbajamonti.hr. Open 07:30-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. (80 - 450kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors.

Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 07:00-24:00. (47 Zoí Archives 86kn).

N­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i

Hvaranin To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn).

A­P­G­X­B­W Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00-24:00. (60 - 130kn).

A­P­G­B­W Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, www.ma-toni.com. Open 13:00-23:00, Mon, Tue 18:00-23:00. (78 - 140 kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­W Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www. restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 06:00-24:00. (100 - 250kn).

A­P­G­B­6­W

Zoí Archives

18 Split In Your Pocket

Oštarija u Viđakovi Just a few steps from Bačvice beach, this tavern continues centuries-long tradition of family Viđakovi. Traditional recipes and distinctive atmosphere with old photographs and exhibited artefacts evoke memories from the past.The menu is diverse, including meals such as braised beef with gnocchi, homemade beef tripe, various cod dishes (bianco, stew and baked), cold and hot starters (octopus salad, fish carpaccio, cuttlefish black risotto, Frutti di Mare pasta) and plenty of grilled meat and fresh fish. Pour it down with carefully chosen Croatian red and white wines and enjoy in live music in the garden throughout the summer season. This is the place to feel the spirit of old Split and enjoy the original Dalmatian food.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open 09:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar. hr/. Open 10:00-24:00. (60 - 120kn). A­P ­G ­B ­J­ 6­W ­i Zlatna ribica Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00-22:00. From June Open 06:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn).

N­P­G­W

name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-21) 81 93 24. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­S­J­W­K ­i Bistro Mazzgoon Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80. Open 12:00-24:00. (120 - 220 kn). A­P­G­X­ E­6­W ­i

Modern European ArtiČok This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels, homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to offer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

ARTiČOK Archives

Summer 2019

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Restaurants Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77. Open 08:00-23:30. (120 - 250kn).

A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day.

Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typical English style breakfast and homemade granola with muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octopus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 33, www.brasserieon7.com. Open 07:30-24:00. (70 - 190 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i Cardo A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotelatrium.hr. Open 06:00-23:00. (75 - 120kn). A­P­G­ X­B­W ­i

Photo by Pablo Merchán, Toto’s Burger Bar Archives

20 Split In Your Pocket

Ceviche, Zinfandel’s food & wine bar Archives

Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.

Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:0001:00. (80 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i Marshal Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60, www.marmonthotel. com/restoran. Open 07:00-22:00. From June Open 07:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i Mistral Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.

The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-split. Open 09:00-18:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­T­ B­L­6­W split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro-nostress.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i Zinfandel’s food & wine bar According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, www.zinfandelfoodandwinebar. com. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00. (140 - 220 kn). A­P­G­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i

NoStress Bistro Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef

ethnic Biser Orijenta Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QF‑3, Ul. Juraja Dobrile 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76. Open 11:30-24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­X­B­6­W Bistro Samurai Conveniently situated in the city centre and just across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, one can expect the complete Japanese experience in food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, www.sushibarsplit. wixsite.com/samurai?fbclid=IwAR3if4F_D8DaVk dyApkVJeQamlHSW8Gd97lZcqxJ0cceGpWYSZkak 1c4GTY. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-23:00. (25 100kn). A­P­G­W facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Zrno Soli This restaurant, located at the ACI Marina, is stylish both in and out. The cuisine is creative Mediterranean, with the kitchen headed by an excellent and energetic chef. Service is second to none and with a million dollar view overlooking the old city of Split, the yachts and the harbour, a relaxing meal here is a memorable experience.QC‑2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 434 30 50, www.zrnosoli.hr/. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00. (80-250kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i

Quick Eats Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with omelettes, poached eggs with avocado or sandwiches from 07:00 - 11.30. There after, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as salads, homemade pastas, burgers, fish and meats from the grill, or delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a chocolate lava cake or a piece of blueberry pie. The green wooden tables and chairs, surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor terrace, give an earthy green peaceful feel to the place.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, www.bepa.hr. Open 08:00-23:00. (40 - 200kn). A­P­ G­T­B­J­6­W ­i Corto Maltese Freestyle Food Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese. rocks. Open 08:00-23:00. (50 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­E­J­6­W ­i Summer 2019

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Restaurants Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-24:00.

(20 - 40kn). N­P­G­B­W Pikulece For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels, octopus grill, as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar.hr. Open 18:00-24:00.

(80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­6­W Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ (+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:0023:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. From June Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (12 - 23kn). N­B­W Sexy Cow With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome ‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the Frenchfries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the locals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 07 82, www. sexy-cow.com. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00.

(45 - 75kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­J­W­K ­i

wine bar Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines. Representing the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They also have been mentioned in numerous national and international publications for their high-quality products and service. Professional tastings available.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 78 77 78, www. paradox.hr. Open 16:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­B­ E­J­6­W 22 Split In Your Pocket

Sardines, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Superfood Juice&Smoothie Bar Health is wealth and this bar is on par with the best!

Opened in 2016, it’s open from morning till night and the ‘a.m.’ menu includes omelette with goat’s cheese to healthy bread with bio marmalade. Meals at ‘p.m.’ include tuna pizza, veggie burgers, raw cakes, superfood, stews, salads and more. Juices & smoothies are mega! Gluten free, vegans and vegetarians ought to relish this place.

QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 13, tel. (+385-21) 67 12 55.

Open 08:00-22:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 100 kn). A­P­G­ T­B­S­W­K ­i Toto’s Burger Bar A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie.

Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu!

Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+38521) 31 40 40. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (42 - 97 kn). N­P­S­6­W ­i

Pizza Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385-) 099 417 71 91. Open 12:00-01:00. From June Open 12:00 - 02:00. (65-95kn).

A­P­W Galija The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions.QI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32, www.pizzeriagalija.com. Open 10:00-24:00. (45 140kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88. Open 12:00-23:00. From June Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W

Vegetarian Galerija Food Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 098 939 54 18. Open 08:00-24:00. (75 - 190kn).

A­P­G­B­6­W ­i Marta’s Veggie Fusion The name says it all with a true restaurant dedicated to those who prefer their greens and its value for money!

Marta’s offers a breakfast through to dinner menu. Foods of interest include curries, soups, burgers, juices, detox teas, craft beer, sauces and more. There are gluten free options available too! Wholesome ingredients really put this up there as one of Split’s best additions to the food scene.QJ‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 8, tel. (+385-) 091 603 07 10, www.martasfusion.com. Open 09:00-22:00. (60 80kn). A­P­G­T­S­J­W­K ­i Up Café An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies,

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe. hr. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. (15 59kn). N­P­G­X­B­V­6­W ­i

Out of town Baletna škola Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.

Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04 14, www. restoran-baletnaskola.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (35 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W Konoba Bajso Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant is only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby islands. All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed down generation to generation, and served with the best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars. Service is warm and you don’t feel like another number, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Jesenice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, www.bajso.com.

Open 15:00-23:00. (100 - 250kn). A­B­L­W Konoba Nikola A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recommended.QIvankova 42, Stobreč, tel. (+385-21) 32 62 35.

Open 12:00-24:00; Sun, Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. (60 - 300kn).

A­P­G­X­T­L­6­W Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioška Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant and wine bar edges its competition by far with outstanding Croatian and international dishes including sea food, meat and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair and precision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable and the wine list is per se excellence! The entire dining experience is sure to be remembered…QObala Sv. Nikole 91, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, www.hoteli-baskavoda.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (80 - 300kn). A­B­L­W Summer 2019

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Coffee & Cakes COFFEE SHOPS 4coffee soul food The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful! Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals reverberate here as the beans that are used and served send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 097 678 77 70. Open 07:00-15:00, Sat 07:00-15:00, Sun 07:00-12:00. W O’š kolač Archives

Bobis-Riva A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI‑3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, www. bobis.hr/. Open 06:00-22:00. From June Open 06:00 24:00. N­G­B Fro (isprid banke) Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small interior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 21. Open 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00.

Goluzarije Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Open 07:00-23:00.

Kalafatić Caffe bar/Restaurant If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach.

QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 01/(+385-21) 38 91 01. Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. P­G­X­ B­6­W Kavana Procaffe A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) 38 43 23, www.procaffe.hr. Open 07:00-24:00, Sat 07:00-24:00, Sun 08:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­B­6­W 24 Split In Your Pocket

D16 Specialty Coffee Split’s coffee haven is in fine form with amazing reviews on social media. Positioned in the heart of town, D16 Coffee serves 100% Arabica freshly roasted using specialty coffee beans. You can also take your coffee to-go in biodegradable cups or sit down for a break from sightseeing. If you want a cold drink, the cold brew coffee is a hit. It’s not pricey and the quality is excellent. Free wifi available and do check out the mural inside showcasing the history of coffee. Also at Domovinskog rata 39B, open 07:00 - 15:00, closed Sat&Sun.QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-) 095 800 54 67, www.d16coffee.com. Open 07:00-21:00.

A­P­G­W ­i Luka Ice-cream & Cakes Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 908 06 78. Open 08:3000:00, Fri, Sat 08:30-01:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W Lvxor A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are placed on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00-00:00, Fri, Sat 08:0001:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­W Mrvu Slađe A very special artisan bakery where the usual offering of doughnuts, mini pizzas and so on is made extraordinary by top quality and creativity. The doughnuts are ultra-light and fillings and toppings are generously applied. A sweet interior and an experience definitely worth seeking out.QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. (+385-) 095 735 99 87. Open 07:00-10:00. J split.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes

O’š kolač?

Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst working abroad and now returns home where she combines Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, ĆirilMetodova 4, tel. (+385-21) 48 04 44/(+385-) 099 480 44 45, www.oskolac.hr/. Open 08:00-21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A­P­ G­B­J­6­W Stari Plac Pancakes If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst ‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance. They also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to mentioned freshly squeezed juice. How can you resist that?

Also at Boškovićeva 9, E-3.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 54 00 88. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00.

A­P­T­B­S­J­W ­i

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Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:30, Closed Sun. N­P­S Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b. Open 07:30-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-02:00. N­P­G­X­B­W

juice bar Juice Bar Kokolo Excellent fresh juices, fruit salads and cocktails in a prime spot in Diocletian’s palace, close to the waterfront. A great place to pick up some healthy refreshment or enjoy a fruity breakfast.QI‑2/3, Trg Braće Radić 15, tel. (+385-) 091 117 70 19. Open 08:0000:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00. B­J Summer 2019

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Nightlife Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-03:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­L­W Na kantunu Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ‑2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:0001:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. P­X­B­6­W

Central the Club Archives

Bars Academia Club Ghetto Walk in and be blown away by the hundreds of bobbles hanging off the ceiling, not to mention some super hip art décor on the walls and semi bohemian furniture. A bohemian oasis in the heart of the Diocletian Palace! The drinks menu is whacky with a great offer that covers local to global liquors, cognacs, wines… Kickback to world music during the day and then the music turns electro at night.

QJ‑2, Dosud 10. Open 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00.

N­P­X­B­E­J­6­W Antique Bar Positioned on the Riva, Antique Bar entwines a tinge of classical design with modern appeal. There seems like a touch of hedonism is in the air and it’s a perfect place to chill for coffee or other finer beverages. Choose to sit indoors or outdoors as people pass on by.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-) 099 3322 281. Open 08:00-02:00. A­P­X­B­E­W Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00-02:00. N­P­X­B­W Moon bar Moon Bar has quickly become a hit amongst ‘Splićani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience.

26 Split In Your Pocket

Noor Bar This stunning bar packs into its small interior a fabulous selection of quality spirits and specialises in craft cocktails.

Superbly imaginative and absolutely delicious, each cocktail really is hand crafted for your olfactory pleasure and visual splendour. Cool, refined and very special.QI/J‑2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-)098 987 77 80, www.noor.bar.

Open 06:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00. A­P­G­W ST Riva Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18. Open 07:00-24:00. P­G­B­J­W

Clubs Central the Club A 360 degree renovation of the former ‘Central’ Cinema has now turned into a two floor nightclub with four bars, VIP lodges and state of the art sound. Each night is theme based from evergreens to disco to world famous DJs playing live. Tops for a perfect all-nighter!QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-) 091 332 32 34, www.centralclub.hr.

Open 00:30-06:00.

CASINO Casino Admiral Split Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside underground garage, money exchange office, bar lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385) 091 482 22 43, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00-24:00. P­G­X­W split.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

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Uvala Bačvice BB FREE DRIVE CALL

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Summer 2019

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Nightlife

- S P L I T - Z A D A R -

TO

PLACE

Gooshter Beach Club As part of the Le Meridien Lav Hotel in Split, Gooshter is beach club where the midday ring of the gong means the start of a new day. Well-tuned DJs, cocktails made on the beach, and a cuisine which fuses East and South merge.

The interior gives attention to the ubiquitous animals from the Mediterranean. The evening programme turns up a notch with entertainment provided throughout the night.

QGrljevačka 2A, Podstrana, tel. (+385-) 091 444 42 01.

From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. A­X­U­B­E­L­W Zenta Club Welcome to one of Split’s newest additions to the club scene which is becoming a hit amongst locals. Zenta is outside the city but on the beachfront and is open as a beach bar in the mornings and then transforms into a nightclub when the sun sets. Zenta has multiple floors and a terrace to dance the night away. Themed nights are part and parcel of the event programme and it’s open ‘till 5am every night of the week.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385) 098 45 55 78, www.zentasplit.com. From June Open Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A­P­G­X­B­ E­6­W

Pub Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:0001:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­B­W

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28 Split In Your Pocket

Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails Archives

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Sightseeing Essential Split Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt.

Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J‑2.

Fish Market (Ribarnica) Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain – it’s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur.

There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.QI‑2, Obrov 5.

Green Market (Pazar) Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends.QJ‑3.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but Summer 2019

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Sightseeing museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00-14:00,16:0020:00, Sat 09:00-14:00,16:00-20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 40/20 kn.

Game of Thrones Museum Archives

the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2.

Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The 30 Split In Your Pocket

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ.

The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel.

GOT MUSEUM game of thrones museum The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2, Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385-) 099 694 03 12, www. gameofthronesmuseum.hr. Open 09:00-23:00. J split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

If you haven’ t seen Mesˇtrović , you haven’ t seen Split www.mestrovic.hr

s u t Visi MEŠTROVIĆ GALLERY / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, 21 000 Split MEŠTROVIĆ´S CRIKVINE-KAŠTILAC / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 39, 21 000 Split T: +385 (0)21 340 800 / mim@mestrovic.hr / TUE - SUN 9 am - 7 pm, MON - closed

(+385-21) 34 08 00, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:0019:00, Closed Mon. From October Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family.

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Museum of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00-21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, www.mgst.net.

Open 08:30-22:00. Admission 25/15 kn.

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Sightseeing The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

Churches

Meštrović Gallery, Ivan Mestrovic Museums Archives

Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.

The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) Just inside the Iron Gates inside Diocletian’s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It’s bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.QI‑2, Bajamontijeva 1.

Marjan Forest Park, Photo by shutterstock

Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating recreation of the artist’s former studio – including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, www.galerija-vidovic.com. Open 08:30-22:00. Admission 25/15 kn.

32 Split In Your Pocket

The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude).

The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.

The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass Sun: 08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. (+38521) 38 13 77, www.samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Landmarks Grgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud) Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened

by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.

Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was declared as a protected cultural monument of the Republic of Croatia.QD/C‑2.

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Health Tourism vascular surgery, orthopaedics, dermatology, endocrinology, cardiology and sports medicine. Treatments include the latest, most effective dermatological and non-invasive skin rejuvenation treatments, cosmetic surgery and rehabilitation through physiotherapy. Finally, there is a modern dental practice specialising in implants.

We believe you’ll find Croatian medical and beauty professionals to be knowledgeable and highly skilled, and the hotel’s facilities to be well equipped. Croatian medical care is also reasonably priced in comparison to many countries in western Europe. So, if you want to feel well and look fabulous, head for Split. For details check out the hotel’s website: www.marviehotel.com.

Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

Marvie Hotel & Health Recover. Reshape. Recharge.

Can you imagine a better combination than a modern design hotel, a fabulous historical city, the glittering blue Adriatic, and the chance to rejuvenate your body and relax your soul with treatments by professional medical staff and beauticians?

Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

The comfortable and modern Marvie hotel boasts an outdoor pool and excellent bar on the top roof terrace that commands an amazing view. The Renevie wellness and spa at the Marvie Hotel & Health is run by highlyqualified professionals offering an indoor pool with saunas, a steam bath, relaxation zone and gym.

However, this unique hotel is also a one-stop shop for beauty and medical treatments including physicians, acupuncturists, nutritionists, physiotherapists, masseurs, beauticians and pedicurists as well as specialists inplastic and

Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

Da’Mar The restaurant at the MarvieHotel & Health brings Mediterranean, mostly gluten-free delicacies to the table. So if you’re looking for a healthy, delicious, cutting-edge three or four course gluten-free dinner menu, this is the place to go. Why not make time for a visit to the spa and a beauty treatment too?QE‑3, Peričićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 98 00, www.marviehotel.com. Open 12:00-22:00. 115-190kn. A­P­G­U­ B­L­W Da’Mar Restaurant, Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

34 Split In Your Pocket

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Marvie does not just fulfill the needs of the contemporary traveler. It goes further.

Hotel Marvie, a new-concept hotel, has two unique advantages – a spectacular location and comprehensive, high-end medical expertise.

info@marviehotel.com marviehotel.com

Split Surroundings

Musum Alka of Sinj, Sinj Tourist Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives

Split Surroundings don’t make mistake of missing some of these great places in split’s surrounding areas

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Split Surroundings Regional Staples & Local Delicacies One of the great joys of eating out in Dalmatia is the sheer plentitude of fresh fish, seafood and gallons of good wine to wash it all down with. However there is much more to Dalmatian cooking than the standard menus of holidayresort restaurants. Combining the salty riches of the Adriatic sea with the meats, vegetables and orchard fruits of the interior, Dalmatian cuisine is a many-coloured mosaic of regional specialities and local variations.

Street snacks are a good place to start: one traditional dish that has made a sudden and welcome return to local bakeries is the Soparnik, a large circular pie made from thin pastry and a succulent filling of blitva (Swiss chard) and onions or garlic. Indigenous to the region of Poljica (the coastal strip that lies between Split and Omiš), it was long considered a simple rustic dish that wouldn’t be of much interest to gourmet sophisticates. Reinvented as a symbol of the ageold originality of local cooking, the soparnik has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years and is now available from bakeries throughout Dalmatia, especially in central Split. It is also a regular feature of the outdoor culinary festivals that take place over the summer. The soparnik usually takes the form of a huge disc, rather like an oversized pizza, and is cut into slices to be eaten as a delicious savoury street snack. Be warned that fresh soparnik usually disappears like proverbial hot cakes – if you see it in the bakery display window, grab your slice while you can.

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Maybe because of its distance from the mainland, the island of Vis has preserved one particular snack-food speciality that (traditionally at least) is found here and nowhere else. The famously tangy and aromatic Viška pogača (Vis pie) consistsof a bready outer casing and an anchovy-andonion filling. Traditionally there are two types of pogača: the Viška pogača from Vis Town comes with the basic filling described above; while the Komiška pogača from the other side of the island comes with extra tomato. Pies like these are sold by the main bakeries in both Vis Town and Komiža and are an essential inclusion in any local picnic.

Variations on the anchovy-pie theme occasionally appear on café and restaurant menus elsewhere in Croatia although they can’t really compare with the original article.

One Vis-pie surrogate we can heartily recommend is the pizza-dough version produced by Pizzeria Kariola, which has branches in Vis Town and Zagreb.

When it comes to festive food and slap-up meals, it’s the mountainous area inland from the Dalmatian coast, the Zagora, that offers most in the way of unique recipes. As well as supporting a small amount of livestock, these starkly beautiful uplands are home to freshwater trout, shrimps, frogs and snails. Frogs used to be a peasant staple and are nowadays considered a local delicacy. They are prepared in various ways: grilled, fried in breadcrumbs or stewed in a big iron pot – the spicy,tomato-and-paprika-flavoured frog stew (brujet od žaba) is a strong weekend favourite. Cuts of veal and lamb are often slow-cooked under a peka or

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Split Surroundings metal lid covered in embers. You should also look out for specific and delightful treats such as calf tongue with olive oil, garlic and parsley; and the Trilj-region speciality triljska šiša, or lamb guts stuffed with bacon, onion and tomato.

Arguably the most celebrated dish of the Dalmatian interior is arambaši, leaves of pickled cabbage stuffed with a mixture of beef, pork, bacon and onion, and slowly stewed in

Soparnik, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Photo by Monika Vrgoč, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

a large pot. Unlike the more widespread sarma, arambaši do not include rice. Although arambaši are found on menus all over the Dalmatian interior, the town of Sinj is frequently regarded as their true home. Indeed arambaši from Sinj are included on the Croatian Ministry of Culture’s national heritage list – consuming a plateful of the things is considered de rigeur during the Sinjska Alka, the knightly tournament held in town every August. Indeed the name arambaši may derive from the word Harambaš, leader of a group of horsemen.

Most common of all Dalmatian specialities is pašticada, the piquant beef stew that used to be a ceremonial feast-day dish but is now on the menu of almost every self-respecting restaurant and tavern. Indeed for anyone interested in finding out what exactly it is that Dalmatians eat when they’re not eating fish, this is the most easily accessible answer. If you are out and about in Split, pašticada is frequently the first thing to be chalked up on the lists of daily specials that appear outside neighbourhood taverns every morning.

Comprising slowly-stewed steak marinaded in prunes and tomatoes, it has a rich, distinctive sweet-and-sour taste, and is usually served with gnocchi.

Dalmatian regional cuisine really excels when it comes to the desserts. Given the harsh working lives endured by many Dalmatian families in the past, desserts were usually reserved for feast days and special celebrations such as weddings and christenings. They were not, as they increasingly are nowadays, displayed on the glass counters of patisseries and cafés, but prepared and consumed at home on ritual occasions.

Common to many Dalmatian towns, Trogir and Imotski in particular, rafioli are pockets of pastry filled with a sweet fruit-and-nut mixture and dusted with sugar. They are a bit like the mince pies eaten by British families at Christmas time, but pack a distinctively Mediterranean citrus punch. According to tradition Imotski rafioli were served to Austrian Emperor Franz-Josef I when he visited the town in 1879.

Imotski is also famous for its trademark cake, the succulent pastry-topped sponge know as Imotska torta. Looking rather like a hat box, it gains added oomph from the addition of rakija, rum or sweet dessert wine – or indeed all of them together; each family will have their own preferred blend. A similar cake, the Makarana, exists in the coastal settlement of Makarska, where it is sold by the town’s waterfront Gradska Kavana Romana. A dense but springy sponge cake flavoured with almond, orange and lemon, it has a beautiful fragrance and is quite crunchy at the top.

One almost-forgotten dessert which has made a triumphant return to Croatia’s delicatessen shops in recent years is Viški hib from the island of Vis, a small compressed, rubbery cake composed of crushed figs, almonds and herbs.

Very rich in taste, it is usually served in tin slices, accompanied by a glass of rakija.

Imotski rafioli, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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By Jonathan Bousfield split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0) 21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr

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info@dalmatia.hr

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Split Surroundings Top Sights Cetina River Canyon Thanks to this position at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš and the nearby villages offer many activities which can turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure. One of these is rafting on the Cetina. If you are a swimmer, experienced skippers will help you negotiate the rapids and you’ll feel as though you’re flying along in the dinghy.

Rafting trips start from the Pavić bridge, which was built during the time of the Emperor Franz Joseph. A speciality of this region is fried frogs’ legs wrapped in slices of prosciutto and cooked in red wine with rosemary. There’s also poljički soparnik which is a listed item of cultural heritage.

QOmiš, www.visitomis.hr.

The Hvar Historic Theatre The Hvar Theater is not only the oldest communal theater in Europe; it is one of the best preserved baroque theaters on the old continent. Built in 1612, this majestic construction has staged some of the best plays, stage shows, masked dances, operas, and orchestras Europe has had to offer over the centuries. The 19th century was truly the golden age of the theater, Carnival time which is linked to holy festivities flourished back then. The neo-baroque style is superbly preserved and after further reconstruction and renovation, one of the islands best landmarks is full of life once again. QJurja Matijevića 20, Hvar.

Jakšić Gallery Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop.

Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carving workshop from his father and modernizes it according to time. Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to create a space in which they can exhibit their works. Jakšić gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house, where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating works of art and stone shaping. In the gallery you can find: unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by dr.art. Dina Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects made of stone.QDonji Humac 75, Nerežišća, Brač island, tel. (+385-) 98 42 24 99, www.galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. A Klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with 40 Split In Your Pocket

Omiš Tourist Board Archives

Museum Alka of Sinj, Photo by Ilija Veselica, Sinj Tourist Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives

Jakšić Gallery Archives

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Split Surroundings the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. The HBO series Game of Thrones has also been filmed in Klis.

Qtel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, www.tvrdavaklis.com. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 60/30kn.

Museum Alka of Sinj Nominated for European Museum of the Year, the Museum of Alka represents a 300 year traditional equestrian race where spearmen target their lances at a hanging metal ring in full gallop. Of note are the uniforms, equipment and weapons used, as well as historic statues and rules that have remained since the beginning. The procession preceding the Alka and the reconstruction of the Battle of Sinj from 1715 pays homage to the grand history behind this age old city.QPut Petrovca 12, Sinj, tel. (+385-21) 44 47 30, www.alka.hr. Open 09:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20 kn.

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”. Qwww.solin-info.com.

The Stari Grad Plain Croatia’s 7th location protected by UNESCO, the Stari Grad Plain is located on the Island of Hvar and is an agricultural landscape that was established by ancient Greek colonists in the 4th century BC. Remarkably, it still remains in its original form and is still in use today where grapes and olives are grown in the fields. It’s an amazing sight to visit and be able to view the ancient Greek system for agricultural production.QHvar, www.starogradsko-polje.net. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

The Vranjača Cave, Dugopolje Tourist Board Archives

The Vranjača Cave (Špilja Vranjača) The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information.

Salona, Photo by Nives Kocijan

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Split Surroundings

North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for 42 Split In Your Pocket

producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured area.

Marina Tourist Board QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, www.tzmarina.hr. Open 08:00-20:00.

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts. After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great music, for a fun night out.

Trogir Tourist Board QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, www. visittrogir.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00.

Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and

Čiovo Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center

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Okrug Tourist Board QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21) 88 73 11, www.tzo-okrug.hr. Open 07:00-21:00.

Kaštela

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Split Surroundings charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

Kaštel Stari Tourist Information Centre QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+38521) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, www.kastela-info.hr.

Open 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-12:00,17:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-12:00.

South of Split Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle and face some of the islands.

Podstrana Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split.

It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch

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along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods.

Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.

Podstrana Tourist Board QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, www. visitpodstrana.hr. Open 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.

Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different story to tell.

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Split Surroundings

Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.

The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Šolta Tourist Info Center QŠoltanskih žrtava 14, Grohote, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57, www.visitsolta.com. Open 08:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.

Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 Summer 2019

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Split Surroundings hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic.

Brač white marble has been exported all over the world.

It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream.

There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, www.supetar.hr.

Open 08:00-22:00.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section. Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-southwestern coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.

The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the 46 Split In Your Pocket

prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form.

On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace.

On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century.

On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić.

Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected.

Hvar Tourist Board QTrg Sv. Stjepana 42, 21450 Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 10 59, www.tzhvar.hr. Open 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:0013:00. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. split.inyourpocket.com

OMIŠ Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish intia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century. until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churchknown as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and innot always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava) into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica. still plenty of adventure to be had And when you’re finished exploring in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s eas around the town make for great history, the town’s central location Fošal 1a, hiking spots, the water is an invitmakes it a perfect starting point for tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, ing crystalline blue and the history the rest of your Dalmatian coast of the town can be explored in the adventure, hopefully minus any info@visitomis.hr remnants of fortresses (like Mirabedreams of terrorizing the seas as a www.visitomis.hr la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Split Surroundings Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty. Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One

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of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

Vis Tourist Board QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, www.tzvis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

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Makarska Riviera

Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Makarska Riviera here you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the adriatic facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera Cycling on the Makarska Riviera About four kilometres northwest of the town of Makarska, the coastal foot- and cycle-path passes an angular grey shed standing beside a small pebbly cove. A boldly geometric construction with a pitched roof sheltering a small bench, it was clearly designed by contemporary architects with style in mind. A clue to the shed’s purpose is provided by a bouquet of spanners and screwdrivers, attached to the wall by steel rope. This enigmatic structure is indeed a bicycle repair shack, part of an EU-funded project to improve the infrastructure in one of the Mediterranean’s fastestgrowing cycling destinations. Clearly, there’s a lot more to Adriatic tourism than just the beach.

With a lush coastal strip backed by grey mountains, the Makarska Riviera offers not just the perfect scenery for a cycling holiday but also a broad range of challenges, offering the kind of punishing mountain ascents that serious cyclists will be talking about for months afterwards as well as relaxed seaside pedaling that will suit a family day out.

The main target for ambitious mountain-bike cyclists is Biokovo, the rugged grey massif that rises imperiously above the coast. Protected as a national park, it’s a vast area and there are numerous ways of exploring it. Arguably the most challenging route is the 30km climb from the town of Makarska to Biokovo’s highest peak, the 1762-metre Sveti Jure. Making use of a mixture of bike paths and paved roads

it’s a seriously gruelling climb, involving plenty of hairpin bends and some challenging gradients, especially near the summit. Even experienced, physically fit cyclists will need about three hours to get to the top, although they’ll be rewarded with exhilarating views of the Dalmatian coast and its islands. It will be chilly up there, so you’ll need to pack extra clothes.

If the Sveti Jure climb looks like a bit too much for you then there’s a wealth of alternative routes, taking cyclists above the coastal strip and into the weird Biokovo foothilllandscape of Mediterranean scrub and abandoned stone villages. The little-travelled roads immediately above Makarska and Tučepi are ideal for half-day cycling trips that involve a bit of climbing but also plenty of lateral coasting along the slope-hugging lanes. It is a strange and eerie part of the world, and cycling is the best way to explore it. Up above Makarska and Tučepi is the fascinating Biokovo Botanical Garden, where plants typical of the mountain region are arranged beneath steep scree-covered slopes. As you might expect, the views of the coastal strip are gorgeous.

There are further cycling alternatives to the southeast, with marked trails above Drašnice and Živogošće enabling cyclists to take in a coast-and-mountain circuit that involves seashore trails, hillside lanes and a stretch of preserved woodland too.There is another popular coast-and-mountain circuit above Drvenik and Zaostrog further east, with the beaches of Drvenik and the historic monastery at Zaostrog providing plenty of excuses to mix a bit of cycling with other holiday pursuits.

Mountain biker riding a bike at the seaside and mountains landscape, Photo by shutterstock

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Makarska Riviera with good tyres, and even then you might have to carry it across the odd rocky obstacle.

Spring and autumn are the best times for cycling – which is good news if you’re travelling as a family because accommodation prices are more bearable at this time of year.

Cycling through the countryside it’s important to bear in mind that a lot of rural inns will be closed outside the summer season – all the more reason to pack a bottle of water and some energy-giving snacks. Bear in mind also that the sun can shine hard from Easter right through to October, so headgear is essential as well as plenty of fluid.

Mountain bikes can be rented from the main tourist agencies in Makarska town, or from the seasonal, open-air bikehire points behind Makarska’s main beach. Use of a mountain bike will set you back around 25kn/hour or 100kn/day, with discounts for longer rentals. Helmets will be supplied, and you may get additional back up (a tyre repair kit; a phone number in case you break down), so it’s always a good idea to ask when you make the rental.

Photo by Brela Tourist Board Archives

Whichever part of the Biokovo massif you chose to explore you’ll be treated to a fantastic range of landscape and flora, with a variety of rock-hugging alpine shrubs and flowers totally different to the palm trees and olive groves of the coastal strip.

Cycling up and down hills in a test of your all-round rugged-ness is far from being the only kind of biking on offer.

The less demanding coastal rides can also be exhilarating, especially those heading east and west from Makarska town. With plenty of pebbly-beach stops and coastal cafes offering refreshments,they are perfect for families as well as being suitable for cyclists of medium stamina. Heading east from Makarska, the trail to Tučepi takes you across the wooded Osejava peninsula, criss-crossed by gravel paths.

On the southern side of the peninsula is Nugal Beach, a famously beautiful pebbly cove.

The Central Dalmatia Bike map, available for free from Makarska Tourist Office, is your best guide to routes. Detailed route descriptions and advice on where to take a break are printed on the reverse side of the map. Indeed this map will more than suffice if you are thinking of exploring the coastal routes. If your heart is set on exploring the Biokovo massif, however, you are well advised to supplement the tourist office’s cycling map by purchasing a more detailed guide to the area such as the 1:25 000 Biokovo hiking map published by SMAND and available in local shops. Once you are out on the paths, waymarkers (consisting of a picture of a cyclist accompanied by a number and a colour code) will let you know you’re on the right path.

By Jonathan Bousfield

Heading northwest from Makarska (and it’s here that we spotted that bike shed at the beginning of the story), it’s possible to cycle all the way to Brela, 15km up the coast, although the latter stretches of the route involve asphalt roads and it’s the earlier, wilder bits of the trail that are most interesting. Heading out of central Makarska takes you past busy stretches of beach as well as a string of uncommercialized coves backed by olive groves or forest. You will also pass the flying saucer-like form of the former children’s holiday resort at Krvavica, the pearl of modernist architecture that is currently standing derelict and awaiting an investor.

It’s important to note that these coastal cycle paths are likely to be busy with strollers and other cyclists, so it’s never really possible to pick up speed. The going is also quite rough in places, so you will need a proper mountain bike facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Photo by Gradac Tourist Board Archives

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Makarska Riviera Top Sights The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school.

Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr.

Depends on exhibitions. Admission free.

The Biokovo NATURE PARK The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska – Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged – wear strong shoes or hiking boots.

The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water.

Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centre Makarska: phone (+385-21) 61 69 24.

Presentation Centre Adrion - Heart of the Mountain Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon.

TOURIST INFORMATION Baška Voda TOURIST BOARD QObala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Brela TOURIST BOARD QTrg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr. Open 08:00 21:00.

Makarska TOURIST BOARD QObala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, info@makarska-info.hr, www.makarskainfo.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

Tučepi Tourist Board QDonji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevcisplit.hr.

Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr.

Drvenik.

Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, www. mdc.hr/makarska/index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs – a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world.

So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passerby, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 15/10 kn.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera arriving on the makarska riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away.

The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer.

For timetable information, see www.split-airport. hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 18kn in one direction for a car from Split, 199kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www. hznet.hr.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija. hr.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) There is one desk for information and tickets. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn for the first hour, 1,50kn for each additional hour.QAnte Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

Open 05:30-22:30.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 09:00, 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:30. July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connectotaxi.com.

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was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.

The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda. the vepric shrine On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September. split.inyourpocket.com

Top Places To Shop

Jewelry WITH CHARACTER An interview with Diana Voytenko - Owner SIYP: Could you tell us more about Namfleg Watches and Jewellery?

Diana: Namfleg is the continuation of the tradition of the famous jeweller Fabergé. The concept was developed in the same great country, Russia, and grew into an international brand based in Zürich. The inspiration which started with antique enamelled watches gave rise to the brand with everything you see in our shops today. The greater part is produced in Russia, and the watches in Switzerland.

Some of the collection is made onsite in the countries where our shops are located.

SIYP: What makes Namfleg jewellery and watches special?

Diana: Enamelled jewellery has a lifetime guarantee. Each piece is a work of art whose creation by hand requires a special kind of experience. The watches’ handmade dials are made in strictly limited quantities. We are unique and special in the world for creating dials from Florentine mosaic. They are made from a great many tiny, thin pieces of stone joined together to create a unique picture that’s hard to describe in words. You have to see it, to hold it in your hands. The watch radiates the energy of beauty and distinctiveness.

SIYP: What would you highlight from the Spring / Summer 2019 collection of jewellery and watches?

Diana: All of the collections are beautiful and special. It’s impossible to highlight anything in particular. There are so many designs that everyone can find a piece to fall in love with.

SIYP: What awaits us in the Autumn collection, anything new?

Diana: I am particularly fond of the mother and child collection because I created it. My idea was to create the ideal gift for every woman during her pregnancy because it holds the miracle of the life she is creating. I created the ideal gift for that time –a two-part pendant with one part representing the mother and the other the child. Once the child has been born the mother can remove the little tabwhich says “Place picture here” and can put it on the child’s cot or pram. In this way she gives some of her energy to, connects with and protects her child. This is an ideal gift for any woman, particularly expectant mothers and mothers with small children. This is something which radiates the miracle of love. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Top Places To Shop Atelier Perajica This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner Ana has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, www. atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00-15:00, Sat 10:0014:00. Closed Sun. A Break Time - Nautical Bracelets For an exceptional souvenir from Split you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof.

You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories! Also at Zadarska 1. Open 10:00 - 22:00.QI‑2, Trogirska 8, tel. (+385-) 097 681 39 77, www.nautical-bracelets.com.

Open 10:00-20:00.

Croata Archives

City Center one City Centre one offers numerous stores and entertainment at your fingertips, including clothing, footwear, accessories & jewelry, and home accessories. There are also tons of cafes and restaurants for when you need to take a break from shopping, as well as a Cineplexx Cinema, Gokart Arena and a playroom for kids.QVukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).

QI‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00-21:00. A Dalmacijavino A wide variety of juices and other beverages offered, of which the most famous is produced by the brand, ‘Pipi.’QI‑2, Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 13, www.dalmacijavino.hr.

Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-22:00.

Dancing Bear Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 09, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 08:3020:30, Sun 09:00-14:00. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+38521) 27 42 59, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-13:00. A

56 Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

Top Places To Shop

Havana Cigar Shop A special shop with a wide selection of Cuban, Dominican, Nicaraguan and other premium cigars, pipes, lighters, humidors, cigar accessories and an admirable range of exclusive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a wide selection of men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for you.

QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, www.havanacigar-shop.com. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A­J Jakšić Gallery The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry

workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www. galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-13:30,16:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:30. Closed Sun. A Jaman Art Centar Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the JAMAN art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed images. The approach here is based on current trends in ‘New Pop-Art’ which focuses on using heightened colours when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY registration plates, vinyl panels, chains… Also at Šubićeva 3, I-2.QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, www.jaman-art.com. Open 10:00-23:00. A Koza unikati The word koza means ‘goat’, a symbol of the Croatian region of Istria, and this family business has it as their logo.

The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wallets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing machine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14 99. Open 09.30-21:30; Sun 10:00-14:00. A Ledenko Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail handmade Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be the winning formula for that special occasion.QI‑2, Domaldova 5, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Nadalina Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And deli-

58 Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

Top Places To Shop cious, may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, www.nadalina.hr. Open 08:30-20:30; Sun 08:30-14:00. A Namfleg Watches & Jewelry Specialising in the cloisonné technique, this boutique has a workshop and furnace allowing you to see how the jewellery is worked into delicate metal compartments which are filled with vividly-coloured enamel powder and fired and polished to a glassy lustre. Split’s boutique has a special collection featuring motifs inspired by the city.QI‑2, Ulica Marka Marulića 3, tel. (+385-21) 29 24 43, www. namfleg.com/pages/split. Open 09:00-22:00. A­J Nered Chic antique! Selection of wonderful decorative items from ceramics, jewellery, bags , greeting cards, stationery and hundreds of other products all made by designers and artisans from Croatia.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385) 099 194 92 48, www.neredshop.com. Open 09:0021:00. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 22:00.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. From July Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Strossmayer Park (Đardin) You never know what you can find but by attending this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of Split’s inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep. See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other rare things that are up for sale. The fair becomes especially popular and lively during the summer months, when the city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Think Pink One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 09:00 - 22:30.QI‑2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

From July 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A­J TRI store TRI is a newly opened store at Zadar Street, which has the task of supporting young local designers. The offer consists of hand-printed t-shirts and some of the more demanding tulle dresses. The emphasis is on Croatian product; simple, bearable, high quality and affordable to all. Brands currently available include Levin Coco, IssaArts and Fairytulle. QI‑2, Zadarska 5, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14 99. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-14:00.

Pipi Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 54/(+385-) 091 411 22 44, www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A Spalato The authentic store perfect for that take home memoir souvenir! Popular items include handcrafted glass, jewellery made of Brač stone, Adriatic shellfish, and Istrian bull horns just to name a few.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45. Open 09:00 21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Split Tea House Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.

Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open 08:30-21:00; Sat 08:3015:00; closed Sun. A facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

Panoramic summer cityscape of old city Split, Photo by shutterstock

By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn.

Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also 60 Split In Your Pocket

strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours.

On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 05:30-00:00. From July Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.

QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, www.krilo.hr.

Open 06:00-21:00. J MSC Krstarenja SNAV agent runs the Split–Ancona ferry line.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, www.msckrstarenja. com. Open 08:00-20:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 99, www.ak-split.hr.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E - 65 on international road maps and as A - 1 inside Croatia. The route on the A - 1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 181 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E - 70 to Zagreb, then hit the A - 1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E - 70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E - 61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E - 61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E - 65 (local facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A - 1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

By plane Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 07/(+385-21) 20 35 08, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.split-airport.hr.

Brač Airport ((Zračna luka Brač)) Location: 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar.

QGornji Humac 145, 21414 Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, www.airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat 08:00-22:00. From June Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

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Arrival & Getting Around one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www. promet-split.hr.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:00 or a night train from Split at 21:43, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hzpp.hr.

Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 – 6kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 – 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have

tourist information Tourist Information Centre Tourist information centre at Peristil.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, www.visitsplit.com.

Open 08:00-21:00.

Tourist Information Centre Tourist Information Centre at Riva.QD‑3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00-21:00.

Split Tourist Board QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 00, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00 32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, www.dalmatia.hr. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sun, Sat. 62 Split In Your Pocket

Public transport Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split.

Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 01.

Promet Split QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, www. promet-split.hr.

Split Metro Train: The metro starts running at 06:00.

Relation: Split - Split Suburbs and return.

Stops between the mentioned relations: none.

Number of routes anticipated: 58 Split - Split Suburb, 58 Split Suburb - Split Total number of rides: 108 The metro will operate daily from 06:00 to 21:45.

Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting.

There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Basics Customs

Roads

There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50€.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcafé culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual.

Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Visas Croatian visa policy is fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

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– Sp lit

Dom

Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board t/f: +385 (0)21 490 036 info@dalmatia.hr www.dalmatia.hr

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