Zadar In Your Pocket No9 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZADAR Summer 2012 S

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

N°9 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.com

A celebratory year 180 years of the Zadar National Museum and 800 years of the Franciscan Heritage

A sizzling destination Discover why this ancient city is full of zest, zip and zing.

CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zadar

Wherefore beer?

Basics

Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History

Kings queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Everything that´s on in Zadar

Where to Stay

Hole up for the night in style (or disrepair)

Restaurants

Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.

Cafés

Where to sit and sip

Nightlife

Mail & Phones

21st century smoke signals

All dressed up and somewhere to go?

Shake your thang

What to See

Ah iz lyin low on mah lilo.

Eyes front!

Getting Around

Sport

Climbing, diving and mountain biking

Diving

Shopping

We´ll help you get rid of that extra cash

Business Directory

Lifestyle Directory

Birdwatching

Back to nature

Zadar County

Maps & Index

Summertime is just one long performance...

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City map/Street index City centre map County map Country map

62 64 66 67 Summer 2012

FOREWORD Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an adrenalin rush can fill their calendars with adventure sports throughout the entire summer - see in particular our feature on diving. As always, we guide you through the most important sights to see - this year is a special one of Zadar’s fabulous National Museum since it celebrates its 180th birthday. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zadar In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1334-9228 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover: St Francis Cloister, Stjepan Felber

Zadar In Your Pocket

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Kornelia Kovačević Photos Zadar In Your Pocket team, Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi Otok, Stjepan Felber, Darko Podravec, Tim Ertl Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2012. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

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ARRIVING IN ZADAR If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the motorway bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these winds. Take the old road to Maslenica which runs parallel to the motorway. For up to date traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for foreign language reports for tourists on local radio.

By plane By boat Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there. Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day.

By bus Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060 305 305. Bus travel is the preferred method of public transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains, for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of getting around the country. Prices are reasonable: a single ticket to Zagreb costs around 125kn. There are frequent links to all Croatian cities and, especially in high season, abroad. The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 2.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 to 22:00, except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are several cafes where you can take the weight off until your connection arrives. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips. Prices for the summer season were not finalized by the time of going to print!

By car The A1 motor way between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. (+38523) 20 58 00. www.zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

By train Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The fastest connections leave Zagreb for Zadar at 10:55 throughout the tourist season. Journey time is about 7½ hours, involving a change at Knin. Full price adult fares are 166.70 - 176.70kn single and 262 - 270kn return - considerably more expensive than the slow train, but much faster. Or you can load your car onto the sleeper for Split and drive on from Knin. There are several trains per day between Zagreb and Split, taking anything between 5 and 9 hours. A single ticket costs 171.20 - 188.20kn. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main entrance works from 06:00 to about 21:00. Getting to town: see “By bus”.

Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre D-3,

Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar. hr. Q July - September 30 Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00. Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. QOpen 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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BASICS Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zadar County: 170,398 Zadar (April 2011): 75,082 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging to Zadar County measure 580km2. Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. For further details www.carina.hr or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Roads If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Money The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not able to accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations, and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided into 100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2 lipa coins exist. You can exchange money in banks and private exchange bureaux. Bank ATMs are to be found in most towns - but don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are commonly accepted, with the exception of smaller restaurants, shops and guest houses - check in advance.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

10 50

-10 -20

M A M

N D

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

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192 93 94 9155

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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HISTORY

A. KljuÄ?anin, A dancer captured among the debris left by the shelling of the 1990s National Zadar Museum (Archives)

Zadar In Your Pocket

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HISTORY

Pillar of shame, 1913.

Foša Harbour, 1913.

In the 15th century, internal fights within the CroatianHungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia, and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued - this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period. In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague, however, ravaged the city. In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in 1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the Austrians took the city back again in 1813. The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved, and the first modern city water system was completed in 1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of national identity, began to press for linguistic and political autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled,

giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade. Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In 1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first town in what is now Croatia. In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the 1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast, including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins. However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica (or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town, date back to this time. Industry developed and the population expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the 1960s, the importance of tourism grew. Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water. Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding is now taking place in every sense.

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Summer 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS

Raoul Goldoni

Ethno 24.07 Tuesday

11.01 2011 Wednesday - 31.12 2012 Monday

Ansambl LADO

Historical Maritime Collection: Maritime heritage

In front of St.Mary’s Church (crkva sv. Marije), Forum, www.lado.hr.. LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed. Show starts at 21:30. Q Seats 50kn, standing free.

15.08 Wednesday

Zvonko Bogdan & Tamburaši B-3, Forum One of Croatia’s legendary folk singers who reinvigorates traditional songs from various nearby regions. Bogdan often plays with a tambura orchestra (various string instruments) which provides that true ethno harmonic background. Witness a living legend of Croatian folk! Concert starts at 21:30. Q J

Exhibitions 07.12 2011 Tuesday - 08.12 2012 Saturday

Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic

C-2, National Museum Zadar (Natural histor y department), Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+38523) 25 18 51. Who says you need to get wet in order to see what is under the sea? This exhibit systematically presents its plants and animals from microscopic flora and fauna through to the Adriatic’s largest sharks and sea turtles. The exhibition will showcase 512 items with 52 photographs and 460 animal or plant samples. Educational and tops for all ages! Q Admission 15kn.

Zadar In Your Pocket

D-3, Knigh’t Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića 66, www. nmz.hr. Since Zadar is a seafaring kind of a city, it’s only logical that it has a collection of interesting artefacts relating to maritime history. This part of collection is the result of more than six decades of work of careful hands from Zadar’s historical institute, and in 2012 it became fully open to the public for the first time. You can learn about the chronology of sailing in this area from prehistoric times all the way up to modern times; there are some beautiful models of old galleons typical of this region, plus fascinating old maps, weaponry and nautical instruments.

05.05 Saturday - 31.08 Friday

Raoul Goldoni: Glass Sculptures D-2, The Museum of Anicent Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar. hr. Is art your forte? Art that is glass, then get a glimpse of Goldoni’s opus, a Croatian pioneer of glass art unique for use, free design and multiple compositions. Born in Split, this artist began working with glass in 1956 and soon after established an influential academic career around Zagreb and its surroundings. T h e s culp tor an d designer even d el ve d in Muran o ar t from the island of Venice so as to enhance his continual experimentation with glass as a medium. Notable works include curvy organic shapes and figurative compositions resembling crystallized animal and human forms such as his Vepar (Wild Boar), 1968, and Zeleni torsoe (Green Torso), 1979.

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CULTURE & EVENTS Israel Magic 12.07 Thursday - 19.07 Thursday

Get a better insight into Israeli customs with this seven day expo that brings together a plethora of people promoting all forms of Israeli traditions and customs. See the Yamma Ensemble, the rabbis of the Chabdad movement, the Mehola Folkore Ensemble, the Hora Jerusalem Choir and Dafna String Quartet. The best of Israeli film will also be shown nightly. So shalom! Opening at 22:00, Forum.

13.07 Friday - 19.07 Thursday

Menashe Kadishmann

B-3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. By all means one of Israel’s most famous painters and sculptors who for over 60 years has been promoting his works to the world. Kadishmann is known for his 1960s sculptures and in the mid 90s began painting portraits of sheep so unique that they became his trademark.

13.07 Friday

Jazz-Klezmer group Apropos.art Seeking something fresh, groovy and with a bit of hip, then sprinkled with funk and smothered with Mediterranean ethno influences, the answer is ‘Jazz-Klezmer’ of course. Israel’s 5 piece, soaring musicians that combine this cocktail of influences and give jazz their very own imprint. Concert starts at 22:00, Forum.

16.07 Monday - 19.07 Thursday

Jerusalem from the Air

D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. The exhibition, consisting of 25 color photographs, introduces Jerusalem from a “bird’s eye” caught by the skilful lens of Duby Tal, who served as a helicopter pilot in the Israeli Air Force. The photos capture the multifaceted Jerusalem - old and ancient, new and modern. Master photographs take us in an air tour of Jerusalem, peeking into different neighborhoods, streets and gardens along many historical landmarks.

17.07 Tuesday

Barack Marshall: Rooster Opened in 2009, choreographer Marshall has brewed a cultural concoction that features Judaism, Yemenite folklore, and Biblical texts peppered with modern music and dance. The plot deals with mans ordeal of self-assertion, does he trust himself or is he chicken (fearful)? A colourful tale of cruelty and care! Show starts at 22:00, Forum

Ancient Cinema

15.05 Tuesday - 20.06 Wednesday

Retrospective by Ante Kaštelančić D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. Paying respect to one of Croatia’s expressionist painters who through his works had brought to life, his very life. The sea, the waves, wooden boats, olive groves, grapevines, bare stone, barren land, the hardship and toil of locals, are all thematic to his work, his beloved Dalmatia.

18.05 Friday - 31.12 Monday

Iphigenia - the history of one restoration C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Head to the museum’s ground floor and get an insight into every stage of the restoration process of one painting, ‘Iphigenia’. Head to the second floor to eyewitness the original baroque canvas of large dimension. Exhibition dates are subject to change. Q J

15.06 Friday - 15.07 Sunday

Ancient Cinema C-3, Archeological Museum, Trg opatice čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, www.amzd.hr. Henry Jesionka presents speculative evidence from an extraordinar y archaeological discovery in Zadar, Croatia, that may set the history of cinema back almost two thousand years. Having stumbled across an unusual bronzed object with a slot in it, and a cache of metal and glass tablets; Jesionka carefully pieces together several of the glass tablets which produce typical ancient images. He then begins to produce replicas - flipping them, even inserting them into the bronzed slot. What of the results? Jesinoka presents his inspirational findings in what some may consider the first ancient cinema, or something abstractly different.

19.06 Tuesday - 09.07 Monday

Dimitrije Popović D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. This Montenegrin/Croatian painter has held over 60 solo exhibitions and is known for his Biblical motifs amongst other inspirations throughout his opus. From France to Italy to home, Popović presents a range of aquarelle prints and each ticket purchased will go towards the fight against cancer. Exhibition dates are subject to change.

20.06 Wednesday - 15.07 Sunday

Dragan Jelavić - Suspicion of / and Reality

Lado

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A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. Jelavić is an artist who brings to life his upbringing in the rural village of Ravča, near Vrgorac. His motives include landscapes, village buildings, seascapes, nature, religion, and the human figure amongst other themes whilst also meddling with graphic art. Q J

Summer 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS The Museum of Ancient Glass The museum is housed in the nineteenth-centur y Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls overlooking Jazine harbour.

04.07 Wednesday 31.08 Friday

The Nin Salt Works D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. The Nin Sal t Works ( (Solana Nin) is a rari t y in to day’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This exhibit showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more.Exhibition dates are subject to change.

06.07 Friday - 20.07 Friday

‘Anastazija’ Art Association The museum contains one of the finest collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin (Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe (Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels used by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners – much of the collection comes from excavations at Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.The replica Roman glassware museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop where you can learn more about the almost forgotten craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for just that.

A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. Support the local front with this art association which presents works by artists from the Zadar County.

06.07 Friday - 13.07 Friday

Friends of the Sea - Mediterranean Essays A-4, Riva. A dedication to the Mediterranean! Large format photos and the works of artists illustrate various themes which are inseparable to the sea; including climate, landscapes, olives, specific food and drinks, habits and customs that enrich this part of the world. Q J

09.07 Monday - 27.07 Friday

Thank you, Croatia!

C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. All countries with Japanese embassies (150 countries) are organizing photo exhibitions as a way of thanking those who helped Japan after the earthquake which struck in 2011. The photos recall images shortly after the earthquake and tsunami and the visible changes made one year later. Exhibition dates are subject to change. Q J

20.07 Friday - 15.09 Saturday

Z v o n k a Po ž u n : Glass Painting - old techniques in new interpretations

02.07 Monday - 12.07 Thursday

Sculpture exhibition by Aneta Božinova L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03. See the works of a young sculptor in Aneta Božinova. She was born, educated and raised in Macedonia and has partaken in 14 solo exhibits to date. Her works primarily include abstract dimensions of the human body in shape and form, some of which include an aluminous effect.

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D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar. hr. Slovenian born Požun is craf t y indeed; sh e began painting on glass in 1990 and turned it into a career. She combines tradi tional painting in gold wi th imaginati ve m oti fs an d glass structure. She works at the Oberglass Centre Bärnbach and brings her eye-catching works to Zadar.

01.08 Wednesday - 15.08 Wednesday

Nenad Petronia

A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. From the Navy to Fine Art, that is Petronia’s journey that has led him to many solo and group exhibitions both in Croatia and abroad. He sculpts and creates installations that define boundaries, are virtual in concept, and he uses all sort of material to produce images and affects.

Summer 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS Glass Workshops Looking for a one of a kind experience, then this blowing glass workshop ought to put some shine into your stay. Through a glass window, see how the masters for hand blowing of glass tend to their craft in creating replicas from ancient Greece and Rome. It’s a great way to pick up a readymade souvenir!

15.09 Saturday - 06.10 Saturday

Croatian newspaper photography 2011 D-3, Knigh’t Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Backtrack to what made local, national and global news last year with various Croatian Journalistic Associations coming together to take a stroll down memory lane as they delve into the topics: ‘Events’, ‘Everyday Life’, ‘Reports/Collections’, ‘Portraits’, ‘Culture and Art’, ‘Sport’ and, ‘Nature and Environment’. Exhibition dates are subject to change.

Jazz & Latin Concerts 11.07 Wednesday

Live from Buena Vista - The Havana Lounge B-3, Forum. Latin lovers will be delighted to know that the sounds of Cuba are just around the corner. Members of the Buena Vista Social Club revive Havana’s once thriving 1940s music scene and have since the 1990s resurged on the world music front. Q J

18.07 Wednesday

Jazz Orchestra HRT & guests D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Are you in the mood for swing? Remember the classics ‘New York, New York and ‘I did it my way’. Well put on your dancing shoes as some of Zadar’s finest musical artists get together to perform a repertoire of Frank Sinatra’s classics. Concert starts 22:00. Q J

13.08 Monday - 25.08 Saturday

Photo Exhibition by Ivana Popović L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03, gkzd@gkzd.hr, www.gkzd.hr. The author of the exhibition is Ivana Popović, art historian (Human Science and Resources University at the Zagreb University) and assistant at the Art and Restoration department of the Dubrovnik University.

20.08 Monday - 03.09 Monday

Intercultural Art Promotion

C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Art Forum Zadar is an artistic association that for the 5th consecutive time is holding this intercultural exhibition. These are works by Croatian and foreign artists whose artistic expression follows the new wave of modernism.Exhibition dates are subject to change.

03.09 Monday

25.07 Wednesday

TBF - The Beat Fleet D-3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, www.ledana.hr. Lyrically provocative, musically innovative, undoubtedly one of Croatia’s top bands that are heavily influenced by reggae, hip hop, afro beat, trip hop, rock and rap. TBF gigs are just as dynamic and front man Mladen Badovinac is the perfect leader with his deep vocals and lackadaisical stage presence. Q J

Jasna Barišić

D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. Having worked abroad, Barišič returns h ome to h er nati ve Zadar and is working on her Mediterranean cycle using a combined technique. The shades used in h er paintings range from warm grey to accentuated wire cores and red and yellow eruptions on some of her canvases.Exhibition dates are subject to change.

Traditional Accapella Evenings C-3, Široka ulica, Kalelarga. One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian Klapa (traditional accapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable monday evening in the Zadar square.

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Rock & Pop Concerts

27.07 Friday

The Beat Fleet

Josipa Lisac B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www. arsenalzadar.com. She has chart topping hits that cover five decades but her peak album, ‘Diary of one love’ from 1973, is stamped as legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and these days her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy. She still attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style, image and visual appearance. Concert starts at 21:30. Q Tickets cost 70kn if purchased in advance, otherwise 90kn on the day of the concert.

Summer 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS

Theatres

Special events

Croatian Theatre House (Kazališna kuća Zadar) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86,

Bibano Summer

hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hkk-zadar.hr. Zadar Puppet Theatre E-2, Obala kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 27 54.

30.07 Monday

Bryan Adams B-3, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@tzzadar.hr. Canada’s number one pop/rock singer heads to Zadar with his husky voice and vibrant stage persona. By golly the amount of worldwide hit singles include Have you ever really loved a woman, Everything I do, Run to you, Cuts like a knife, Here I am, Heaven, and of course the unforgettable Summer of 69. A night of rock and romance waits. Concert start at 20:00. Q Tickets 250 - 500kn at the Tourist Information Centre, Mihe Klaića 2. Also at www.eventim.hr.

31.08 Friday

Jinx

B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www. arsenalzadar.com. Arsenal is a spectacular venue that will host one of Croatia’s leading commercial pop bands in Jinx. Having formed in 1993, they have topped charts on numerous times with even their first album ‘Sextasy’, released in English. One can expect a laid back, funky catchy gig with flair and groove. Concert starts 22:00. Q Ticket 70kn in advance, on the day of the concert 90kn.

Zadar In Your Pocket

15.06 Friday - 31.08 Friday Punta Beach, Bibinje. Bbbbbb it’s all about bounce, bop and beat! Beach party lovers that crave dance and electronic music set along crystal clear shores look no further. Summer isn’t summer without the… 13.07.Miss Maverik at 18:00 20.07. Miss Kavi at 16:00 20.07. Tom Novy at 18:00 Miss Maverik 28.07. Sam Divine at 18:00 02.08. Thomas Gold at 18:00 Q Free entry.

21.06 Thursday - 23.06 Saturday

Tango Festival

A-3, Arsenal, Trg bunara 1, Q bar, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20, www.tango-zadar.hr. Love Latino and tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff at the 3rd edition of this event. Passers by are more than welcome to join in and even learn from the best!

Evergreen Evenings C/D-3, Narodni trg, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Enjoy those Tuesdays summer nights as some of Croatia’s finest musicians perform an array of jazz concerts at the city square.

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CULTURE & EVENTS 2 2 . 0 6 Fr i d a y 17.08 Friday

Papaya Summer Festivals Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag, info@papaya. com.hr, www. papaya.com.hr/. Papaya is Croatia’s counterpar t to Ibiza an d i s on e of t h e best open air clubs in Europe. It is set on the island of Pag, Novalja, on the beautiful beach Zrće. During the day, enjoy the most popular dance beach parties which con tinue in to th e night under th e starry sky. Special festival themes add to the flavour as some of the hottest names in world electronic music pump their endless tunes. Brace yourselves as the outstanding line-up says it all… 05.07 - 08.07 Fresh Island Festival 08.07 - 11.07 Mexx Beachattack 17.07 - 20.07 Papaya Day & Night Summer Festival 24.07 - 27.07 Papaya 10th Anniversary Festival 01.08 - 03.08 After Beach Festival 07.08 - 10.08 Connect Festival 14.08 - 17.08 MTV Mag Festival Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr.

22.06 Friday - 24.06 Sunday

The 2nd Jadera Urban Music Fest D-3, Kapetanski Park, info@jumf.hr, www.jumf.hr. Three days of home grown talent is what this event is all about. The opening is reserved for the finals of the Zadar guitar playing contest followed by legendary Rambo Amadeus. The second day brings Goran Bare & Majke, Disciplin A Kitschme, Edo Maajka . The icing on the cake is Tito & Tarantula. Q Tickets 60 - 210kn. J

Galleries Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. QOpen , Mon, Sun 18:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 03:00. Closed Tue, Sat. City Library L-4, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03.QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg.QJune 1 September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admision 15kn. City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg. June 1 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. QAdmission 15kn. Knight’s Palace D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb.Q June 1 - September 15 Open 10:00 - 22:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Admission 15kn. Terre Verte B-3, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-23) 25 00 40.QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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Franciscan Heritage 800 Years of Franciscan Heritage St Francis of Assisi is well known for his deep respect for our animal friends and for nature, as well as his insistence that to follow God one must embrace humility and poverty. During his lifetime, in the 13th century, it is believed that St Francis travelled along the Dalmatian coast, founding a Franciscan monastery right here in Zadar in 1212. What’s more, during his stay here, he cured a nun of a three-year-long sickness, and the Franciscan order received the gift of a monastery garden, while the Benedictine nuns undertook the Rule of St Clare, an order founded by St Francis and St Clare of Assisi. The monastery is a terracotta and yellow building framed by palm trees with a peaceful courtyard at its centre. The monastery has a rich treasury and its archive has books dating back to the 13th century, as well as a 14th century volume describing how to make colours for decorating books. An exhibition of aerial photos called “The Monasteries of the Franciscan Province of St Jerome” is open this summer – see our What to See section for the address and opening times.

29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday

Hideout Festival Zrće Beach, Novalja, Island Pag, w w w. hideoutfestival.com. Enter one of the world’s hottest beach fests with a star studded line up that includes electronic sensation Skrillex, plus Chase & Status, Simian Mobile Disco, Annie Mac, Loco Dicea, Seth Troxlera, Sub Focusa, Benge and Art Departmenta, Ricarda Villalobosa and others. Tickets are highly sought with a huge ‘British’ contingent flying across especially for the event.

29.06 Friday - 03.08 Friday

The 18th Zadar Summer Theatre C-3, Deputy’s Palace (courtyard), St Dominic’s Church (D-3), Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Zadar, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr. One of the city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances and musicals to be held in the evenings, set amidst historical grandeur. A repertoire of local and foreign art performances are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided into two: Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst Part 2 is the musical programme called The Contemporary Music Festival. Q Tickets 50kn and available at the box office.

05.07 Thursday - 14.08 Tuesday

The 52nd Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, St. Francis’ Church, Forum (Croatian National Theatre Zadar, Široka ulica 8), tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www. donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets 40 - 80kn available at the box office (Široka ulica 8).

Summer 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS 14.07 Saturday - 04.08 Saturday

National Museum

Musical Mornings in Stomorica C-4, Church Stomorica. Everyone needs some time to mellow and between 11:00 and 14:00, Croatian performers will perform ‘unplugged’ in the remains of the Stomorica Church. Sounds rather angelic! Well this might turn out to be an exceptional event alongside some morning coffee.

28.07 Saturday

Millenium Jump B/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. When in Zadar do as th e Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event which is being held for the fourth year in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.

29.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday

KalelargArt B/C-3, Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni Square, Forum. A street ar t festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.

03.08 Friday

Full Moon Festival B/C-4, Riva. On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan), clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.

04.08 Saturday - 10.08 Friday

3rd Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival Starigrad, tel. (+385-23) 369 18 73, info@spff.hr, www.spff.hr. This serene old coastal town turns musical by paying tribute to both Croatian and world musical greats through film documentaries. The festival presents local and world productions showing musical icons in a different light, through biographies or whilst at work creating their music. What’s more, the town turns into a stage with matinees and concerts held across various town locations.

05.08 Sunday - 07.08 Tuesday

Beat the Heat Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, tel. (+385-) 91 199 78 99, info@ aquarius.hr. Another smashing festival with three world class DJ’s. Deniz Koyu electronic dance music producer who specializes in progressive house and electro house opens the festival with his hit single ‘Tung’. Show starts at 23:00. Q Tickets 190,00kn.

The National Museum is 180 Years Old Zadar’s National Museum is a pretty impressi ve institution, encompassing the Natural History Museum, an excellent exhibition of Croatian architecture in the Knight’s Palace, the Maritime Collection, the City Lodge gallery, the City Sentinel’s ethnographic collection, and lastly the Museum of the City of Zadar. To celebrate this grand anniversar y, in 2012 a load of special events will take place including a fashion show of contemporary clothing featuring traditional embroidered cloth; exhibitions in the City Lodge and workshops in the Knight’s Palace. Any philatelists out there may buy a commemorative stamp featuring Saint Chrysogonous for the princely sum of 1.55 kn – get thee to a post office now!

09.08 Thursday - 12.08 Sunday

Saljski užanci

Sali, Dugi otok. As tradition stands, you will be invited by a band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who march through the town playing a horn type instrument. And that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local food. This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi otok.

25.08 Saturday - 31.08 Friday

The 3rd Film Forum Festival

B-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 99 413 43 59, off ice@ filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/ en/the-player/. In partnership with the Producers Network at the ‘Marche du Film’ in Cannes, this even t conju ga tes over 500 world producers who kindle international film co-productions. This year features European copro du c tions an d do cumen taries, a reminiscent section nam e d ‘Cla s si c s on t h e Adria ti c’ and more. We just might meet the new Spielberg here?

Feštice 20.06 Wednesday - 05.09 Wednesday Široka ulica, Kalelarga. Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.

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Summer 2012

WHERE TO STAY

Five wells square, (Trg pet bunara) by Tim Ertl

Upmarket Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@ hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219, 3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite €298). PJHAFLGBKDXW hhhh Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+38523) 55 56 80, reser vations.borik@falkensteiner. com, www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can accommodate up to three children. Prices are per person per day, all-inclusive and for Luxury suite available upon request. Q258 rooms (4 singles €104 187, 52 doubles €76 - 126, 83 Mini Family €79 - 137, 58 Family Royal €88 - 146, 61 Family Suites €103 - 150). PTHAUFEGBKDCwW hhhh Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www. falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you’ve seen it, you’ll want to buy into it. The ultimate in comfort and tasteful design, with a surrounding park and pool area which are a sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per person full board. Q48 rooms (37 Junior Suites €70 - 120, 11 Standard Rooms €60 - 110). PHAFEGBKDXCwW hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Zadar In Your Pocket

Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00,

fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The closest hotel to the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of wellto-do villas. Prices are per room per night, including breakfast. Q203 rooms (27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 1334kn, 36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn). PJHAUGBKCW hhhh

Mid-range Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)

55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@ falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. Part of the Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options. Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles €51 - 77, 119 doubles €45 - 70, 31 triples €45 - 70, 54 Family Rooms €51 - 75). PTHAEGBKXCW hhh Hotel Marinko G-4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 098 61 55 53, 091 429 99 09, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A rather colourful new villa-style building, close to all the Borik amenities. All rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies, although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Q21 rooms (15 doubles €70, 6 triples €80). PALBKW hhh Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close to the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean, family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning available. Prices are per room with breakfast. Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 720kn). PTALBKW hhh

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WHERE TO STAY Porto R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about 15 minutes’ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices, clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103 rooms (8 singles €58 - 61, 38 doubles €40 - 42, 51 triples €31 - 33, 6 apartments €32 - 35). PHARLGBKXW hhh Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel. Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four. Prices are per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKCW hhh Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 98, fax (+385-23) 33 19 60, nico. moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotel-villanico.com. Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. Prices are for the room plus breakfast. Oh, and it’s pink! Q Open May - September 30.29 rooms (17 singles €73 - 100, 17 doubles €98 - 130, 2 triples €118 - 150, 1 apartment €108 - 150, 9 Economy Rooms €58 - 68). PAR6LGW hhh

Out of town Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29 07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar. Close to the heart of Biograd and the town’s excellent beach, the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles €85 - 128, 95 doubles €45 - 75, 5 apartments €80 - 125). PTJHAFLEBKDCW hhh Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23) 38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr. This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound. Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms (90 apartments 214 - 432kn). Prices are per person. PHA6LBKW hhh

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Summer 2012

WHERE TO STAY Coming soon... Art Hotel Kalelarga Soon to be opened, the hotel’s interior design is based on the Kalelarga (the famous street that runs through the centre of Zadar’s old town). Thematic motives of the city’s history fill its 10 available rooms, there is a restaurant and bar so you can go A la Carte or simply devour your coffee at ease.

Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+38523) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@ hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built, recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKXW hhh Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39 65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation. The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person including breakfast. Pets welcome on request. Q168 rooms (161 singles €85 - 137, 161 doubles €48 - 81, 7 apartments €80 - 125). PTJHARFLEBKDCW hhhh Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd. com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean, comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices per person with breakfast. Q 106 rooms (102 singles €77 - 137, 102 doubles €45 - 81, 4 apartments €75 - 115). PTJHARFLEBKDCW hhhh Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, Sv. Filip Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 39 14 20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@ marenostrum-hr.com, www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small town between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful, modern airy rooms, all with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea views. Friendly staff. Prices include breakfast. Q14 rooms (14 doubles €60 - 100). PALBKW hhh Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+38523) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr. A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta), sports and excursions. Prices per person half board. 30% Zadar In Your Pocket

supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24 singles €46 - 86, 216 doubles €38 - 76, 63 triples €38 - 76, 10 apartments €89 - 307, 27 Family Rooms €38 - 76). PTJHAUFBKDCW hhhh Villa Nela Punta Radman, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. (+38523) 36 46 60, fax (+385-23) 36 46 70, info@velcektours.com, www.velcek-tours.com. A new villa with clean and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself to sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up to five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the sea. Q12 rooms (3 Studio €60 - 95, 3 1-Bedroom €70 - 110, 3 2-Bedroom €80 - 140, 3 Large 2 Bedrooms €100 - 160). PJA6LGBCW hhh Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76, Nin Zaton, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11/(+385-23) 28 02 80, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, apartments@zaton.hr, www. zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite placed to take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton. Zaton has a huge array of activities, including water sports, horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and a popular nightclub. Q 590 rooms (590 apartments €31 - 257). PTA6UFLEBKCSW hhhh

Islands Agava Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12

91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava. hr, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, massage, fitness centre, tennis and diving in Božava’s famous clear waters. Recently refurbished, with accommodation in apartments with kitchenettes. Prices are per person with breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q19 rooms (17 doubles €38 - 73, 2 apartments €38 - 73). PTHA6FGKDCwW hhh Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view. Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts. You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices are per person with breakfast. Q87 rooms (87 doubles €38 - 73). PTA6FGBKDCwW hhh

Hostels Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića

Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for backpackers. It is situated at the Arbanasi district close to the Bus Station and Kolovare Beach, and the old town is only a 20-25 minute walk away. The hostel has got all the necessary facilities including kitchen, individual rooms and a small bar, as well as laundry service. Q 30 dorm beds, 120 - 140kn per person. PNGBCW Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated. Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you’re lucky enough to book into the new place, you’ll pay a little extra. Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff. Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for between 2 and 8 people. Q 298 dorm beds, 21 - 35€ per person. HUGBKW

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RESTAURANTS Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23)

Croatian These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet. Atrij D-2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 6. The owner of this restaurant and brunch bar also runs the well-thought-of Kornat restaurant. Atrij has a similarly stylish interior, which includes a monthly exhibition of paintings which you can buy. Open from breakfast til dinner, the food is Mediterranean and prepared from fresh, high quality ingredients. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 118kn). PB Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+38523) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 110kn). PJABW Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 90kn). PAB Grill Canzona C-3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and prices are proportional. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 140kn). PB Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13 (Bastion hotel), tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 190kn). PALBW Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 160kn). PJAB Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, http://malo-misto.com. The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn). PB

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33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel, there’s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It’s a place to wind down at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PLNB Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. Inside the new apart-hotel, an a’ la carte restaurant serving Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn). PAB Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant, green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PAB Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran) Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 88, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PABW Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27 28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising, apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada (beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine and vegetables). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAB Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. The restaurant has an unusual offering of risotto-like dishes made with barley instead of rice, a nutritious alternative, and home-made pasta. They also have beef, pork tuna and turkey steaks, lamb cutlets and classic fish dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). PAB Providenca D-3, Varoška 8. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. (20-45kn). PB This little eatery offers light bites such as cold food, soups, salads, bruschetta, tapas and pizzas. Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 75. A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNB Zadar C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel. (+38523) 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in town. Dalmatian music and a pleasant atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). PNB

Summer 2012

RESTAURANTS Cake & Ice Cream Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we’ve known since childhood), don’t be shy to try the homemade stuff in a slastičarnica. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum. Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can’t smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments, after all). Probably the most popular cake in Croatia is kremšnita - a thick layer of vanilla cream sandwiched between two layers of light pastry. It’s not too heavy, so perfect if you fancy a sweet little something in hot weather. Danica C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of the good selection of cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB Kompas C-3, Široka ulica, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 92. A nice ice cream parlor with about 25 flavors, also offers pizza, coffee and other drinks. Has indoor seating, but who wants to sit inside when you can sit outdoors right on Kalelarga. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B Luce C-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+38523) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super terrace on the square outside St Chrysogonus’ Church. You can pick up a sandwich, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNB Miami Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1, Biograd n/m. Just at the beginning of Biograd’s Riva - the town’s waterside promenade. It’s a great place to linger over one of their home made cakes or their special Kup Miami sundae and watch the passers by. Or call in for an ice cream to accompany your after dinner evening stroll. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB

Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23) 21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB

Chinese Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33

23 10/(+385-) 095 539 81 58, shanghai.restoran@ gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PAGB

Breakfast Croccante C-3, Široka ulica 14, www.croccante.hr.

Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23)

25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar. hr. A large, busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a wide choice of local and international meat and fish dishes. Perfectly respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 90kn). PJAB

Zadar In Your Pocket

When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a top-notch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn). Forum C-3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (3 - 40kn). NB

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RESTAURANTS

Foodie Sukošan Griblja Trg Ruševac, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 37 00, info@konoba-griblja.com, www.konoba-griblja. com. Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (55 - 380kn). PAGB Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+38523) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). PAGB Kod Guste Rudina 9, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kodguste.hr. A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). QOpen 16:00 - 23:00. (65 - 200kn). PNG

Italian Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23)

21 20 81. A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PJNGB

Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them. Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20 04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality, and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn). PA6B

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Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PLNB Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar favourite for generations. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). PNGBX Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). NB Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/ (+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of our readers wrote in and told us that “if you’re looking for a restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi, but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple. The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name (which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (55 - 400kn). PAB Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel. (+385-) 098 40 33 22. A well-kept secret - an old stone house with only five or six tables. All the food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in the know say it’s a good place in Zadar for octopus cooked ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll see signs for the konoba. You have to order what you want to eat a day in advance, because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in, or phone. Very special. QOpen 18:00 24:00. (65 - 100kn). PLNB

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RESTAURANTS

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar. Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn). PALGBX Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). ALB

Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy. Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALB Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and

Zadar In Your Pocket

economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (28 - 200kn). NB Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNB Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB

Seafood Less homey than konobas but good places to try the local catch in a more upscale ambience. Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00 23:30. (70 - 450kn). PJAB Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +38523) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 330kn). PALB

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RESTAURANTS Niko G-5, Obala kneza

Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotelniko.hr, www.hotel-niko.hr. An institution - not only one of the best hotels but also one of the best restaurants in town. It’s a great place to eat seafood. We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not shockingly expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PAL Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn). PALB Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+38523) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still their strong point. However, the overall experience, including the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+38523) 33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. A wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful Italian villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We need say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right by the Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALB

Thai Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Put Dikla 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77

13/(+385-) 098 183 51 84, www.pearlofsiam.com. hr. If spicy or the more exotic flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver? The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place - bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (30 - 100kn). PAB

Out of town Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.

(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines, with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open 15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 50kn). PNGBX Konoba Grmalj Premuda 122, Premuda Island, tel. (+385-23) 37 66 65. A little terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island. A gorgeous location to try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish) ispod peke. People claim that kid goat is a better meat than lamb as it’s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). NB Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+38523) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). A6LB

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Fast food Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30

50 87. There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place to munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (20 - 32kn). PNB Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNB Obelix G-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town. Located next to Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for its summer parties and fried sardines which the owner gives to passer bys for free. QThe program is on Wednesdays from 9 pm until 1 am. (8 - 32kn)

Tony Kožino II 76, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/ (+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian speciali ties and international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff. On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 300kn). PALB Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane. jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely spot on Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside, look out for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). AB Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster. Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 110kn). AB

Summer 2012

CAFÉS

As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip over a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too. Boo to globalisation! 72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those places where local characters congregate, and here they’re cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence the name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest beer in town at 14kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 01:30. PBX Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+38523) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga! QOpen 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGB Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBX Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas, different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJNGB Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB

Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. PNBX Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat. Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy coffee and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PNB Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PBX Novi Caffe D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31 15 14. On Five Wells Square, right by one of the “Pillars of Shame”. Intellectuals are now rumoured to meet here and flog themselves with metaphorical cats-o-nine-tails. Mea culpa!! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. GBX Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern and stylish. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PGBXW Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. PNBX Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 03:00. BXW

www.inyourpocket.com Zadar In Your Pocket

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NIGHTLIFE Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. B

Hangin’ out

The Garden Club, Tim Ertl On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people. While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed. Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent nights, and a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.

Clubs Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds of music on different nights. At the time of going to press, in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue what would be happening when this summer, so keep an eye out for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea of what to expect. Apart from that, the good news is the crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you find in so many resorts is pretty much absent. City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 324 07 89, forum.city.club@gmail.com. A smallish coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of full-on hedonism to recall the fall of Rome. The music policy is flexible, but you can expect to find commercial house and r’n’b. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www. watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. JBW

Cocktail bars Barbara bar F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 20 61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style, all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and comfortable spot to wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGBX zadar.inyourpocket.com

One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local Maraschino cherries - a particularly aromatic variety, a little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared up to the max. As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have to watch, and, like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal clear and syrupy) was first made by 16th Century monks, who called it sun dew. Apparently the fruits and young leaves of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would be imbued with positive effects. The city’s Maraška factory is the yellow building on the mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals are rightly proud of.

Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21

13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar Tourist Board put their heads together so you can find all the tourist information you need. From accommodation to tours, Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all at Arsenal. Q Open Mon, Sun 18:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 03:00. PTJAEBKW Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PBX Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385) 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana@ net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 01:30. PJNBX Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20, agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s history goes back to the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself. Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. NGBX

Summer 2012

NIGHTLIFE Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few seats

in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBX

Out of town Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-

Hitch bar Kolovare beach, tel. (+385-) 095 111 88 88, www.hitch-bar.com. Wanna dance till you drop, spruce on in to this popular night club with somewhat of a modern and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer’s entertainment guide with theme nights, international DJs, and concerts by Croatian and international artists. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. PABW Kult C-3, Stomorica 6a. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX Ledana Lounge bar D/E-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana.hr. Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts. QOpen 08:00 02:00. PAB LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51. One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNB Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. PBX Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+38523) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PAGB Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. PNBX Yachting Bar G-5, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts. and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00. PNBW Zadar In Your Pocket

53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius. hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. BKC Beach Bar Kalypso Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island. A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton), games and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and internet access. The late bar is pumping ‘til who knows - and who cares - when! Open ‘til late QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. BC Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, w w w. ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music. As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya. com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC Saturnus Zaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00. PLN Vanga Stara Riva bb, Pag Town, Pag Island, marija. valentic@zd.htnet.hr, www.ljubica.hr. A disco club named after an old local ferry, it’s open non-stop for fun, including karaoke and foam parties. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. B

Jinx

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WHAT TO SEE

St Anastasia’s Cathedral, Tim Ertl Alright, so having your city razed to the ground every few hundred years might have its drawbacks - but look on the bright side! The legacy of constant rebuilding has given Zadar a uniquely rich architecture, and there can be few places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed into one small area.

Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot. City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with

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a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area. City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”. QOpen 09:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 15kn. City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg. Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 15kn.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

WHAT TO SEE City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses. St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije) B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry. St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed November - April Admission 15 - 20kn.

City tours Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians are a hardy lot. Seriousl y, this is a famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn. The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.

Churches When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable. All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused admittance.

Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green

park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila

Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.

St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića

St Donatus’ Church, Tim Ertl

Zadar In Your Pocket

Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.

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WHAT TO SEE extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery, Tim Ertl

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)

C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.

Culture Research Library and Historical Archive. Zadar’s Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb. It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks. It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia, under many colonial powers. The documentation kept here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s legal and political past.

St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in 1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences. St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3, Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre. St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing zadar.inyourpocket.com

A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and simple, but architecturally rich. St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless! St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3, Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar. St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3. An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).

St Mary’s Church, Tim Ertl

Summer 2012

WHAT TO SEE

St Simeon’s Church, Tim Ertl

St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.

The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque belltower lie in the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from the ravages of history - Napoleon’s armies converted it into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged the exterior. St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ). St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school, rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.

Landmarks City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most

Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs

Zadar In Your Pocket

and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese - usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and brica-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter. Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara. During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders. Greeting to the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions. Statue of Petar Zoranić. On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time - a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

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WHAT TO SEE

Five Wells Square, Tim Ertl

Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow

staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain? The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly

thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid. The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić, and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter engineered the organ itself.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr, www.amzd.hr. On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local zadar.inyourpocket.com

necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 20 kn. National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the 19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace (see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately for each department. Q June 1 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 14:00 and 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 12:00 and 17:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun closed. Admission 15kn.

The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-

23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar. hr. The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Open July - October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

WHAT TO SEE Palaces Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3,

Medulićeva 2. Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the world. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15kn). Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.

Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive

Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies. Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.

Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not

the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)

silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17

05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:00. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00.. Open May - October 17:00 - 19:00.

The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery (Riznica samostana sv. Frane) A/B-3, Trg sv. Frane

1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.

E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him - against his wishes.

Religious collection Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro

Zadra) B-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/ (+385-23) 25 48 20. If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and Zadar In Your Pocket

Greeting to the Sun

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MAIL & PHONES Express mail City Ex N-4, Put murvice 26a, tel. (+385-23) 30 90 99, zadar@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N DHL E-1, Postrojbi specijalne policije 12, tel. (+385-23) 22 44 44/(+385-) 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Internet places Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. (+385-23) 25 07

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s sixor seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you’re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

08, klub@zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10kn / 30min, 15kn / 1h. Marina Dalmacija Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00, www.marinadalmacija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. W Vip Internet caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 30 19 69. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 23 55, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 37 17, www.posta.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, 07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera 8, tel. (+385-23) 22 37 24, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. (+385-) 0800 90 00. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 D-3, Andrije Medulića 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 38 09, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. VIP Centar E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

Postcrads

3,10 kn 7,10 kn 1,60 kn 3,10 kn

City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Dubrovnik

01 021 022 023 020

Summer 2012

GETTING AROUND Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00 - 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip). Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which privilege an equally varied array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn to 40kn for a 5km trip. Your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Trains Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr. The train station is right next to the bus station. Zadar is not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by rail. There are two direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train services to Split don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus. Ticket prices are similar to those of buses. The ticket office is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German pages and a search facility. For international services, it connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.

Buses Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel.

(+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www. liburnija-zadar.hr. The bus station is on the crossroads just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:30 - 22:00.

Car Rental Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/

(+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www. avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@ subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Lulić Ulica 159. brigade 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/ (+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36 30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Zadar In Your Pocket

Oryx B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43

01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, www.oryx-rent.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+38523) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com. hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www. terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Airport Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,

tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www. zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights also in summer.

Airline offices Croatia Airlines Zadar Airport, Zemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 25 01 01, zadap@croatiaairlines.hr. Also open 90 minutes before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Ferries Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.

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GETTING AROUND Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen

and Fri Open 07:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 05:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www. miatours.hr. NLP agent. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A

Harbourmasters’ office Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.

Rent a bike Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel.

(+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www. calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mondena travel C-4, M. Pavlinovića 12a, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/(+385-) 098 65 47 02, info@mondenatravel. hr, www.mondenatravel.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 13:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Photo Competition Be Local! Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carryon luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky! The four competitions run during the following dates: 1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition. An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions. The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia. How to Enter Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”. Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken. The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail. Conditions of Entry We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for non-commercial purposes together with the name of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list. *Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

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Travel agencies Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 04/(+385-23) 25 43 06, www.kompas-travel.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. N Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www. terratravel.hr. Rafting, bungee jumping... QOpen 08:00 22:00. A

Petrol stations Euro Petrol Petrčane Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 36 44 34. Q June - October Open 00:00 - 24:00. A INA - Borik G-4, A.G.Matoša 4, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 24, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. A INA - Put Murvice west O-1, Zagrebačka 38, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 28, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A INA - Voštarnica Kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 29, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A

Summer 2012

GETTING AROUND Bus lines In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the last thing that tourists need is to contemplate on how to get from A to B. Rest assured dear visitors as you can wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased to know that Zadar has excellent connections to the rest of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the Zadar Bus Station or phone 060 30 53 05. Timetable changes are possible for all lines after 1 July. Zadar is well connected to Zagreb with daily lines. For those wishing to travel closer to the Zadar surroundings there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45. Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a line Čakovec-Vir that runs from June 16 until September 15 which stops in Zadar at 10:40 and continues through to Vir. If you’ve done your research you’ll know that Novalja is one of the hit party destinations and therefore there is a bus that travels daily at 14:00 and 20:00. Take note as an additional line to Novalja is scheduled from June 1 until September 30 with a bus that departs at 17:00. With the new state of the art freeways built, the ZagrebSplit bus line is definitely the best way to travel time-wise. In saying that, there are also buses available for those who wish to take the lovely coastal route along the sea. As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does stop in Zadar. If you’re travelling south to Dubrovnik, there is a line from Trieste that arrives to Zadar at 01:00 and then proceeds further down. To the north of the country there are bus lines for the city of Rijeka. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:00, 12:00 and 23:30. For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line to Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00. Timetable changes are possible for all lines after 1 July.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from 1 Jul to 31 Aug, 08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From 1 Sept to 30 Jun charges are as follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h; charges are applied every day except Sundays and bank holidays. Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone 3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

Zadar telephone code is +385-23 Zadar In Your Pocket

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SPORT

Beaches If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east. Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas. If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.

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Biking

Noir Festival girls

Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. See “Zadar County” for more info on all of these, or call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr. Calimero bike shop M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10, www.calimero-sport.hr. Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43. Bike purchase and service, plus other sports equipment, including punchbags for when those family holidays are just getting too much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Fishing Lake Vransko is well -stocked and o f fers peace ful surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call into your local tourist office - take some ID with you.

Horse riding Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard work. Konjički centar Libertas Zaton Holliday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas. hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - Septemeber Open 07:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00.

Summer 2012

SPORT Sport events 20.07 Friday - 19.08 Sunday

VAK’AN’ZA

B-4, Riva and City beaches. A fun for all water polo tournament for men, women and a veteran’s category with the aim of gathering old district teams from the Zadar region. The event will be held across various beaches with an entertainment programme provided throughout various cafes, clubs and bars…

Marina Biograd Bukovačka bb, Biograd, tel. (+38523) 38 61 22, marina.biograd@zd.t-com.hr. Biograd’s new dry marina is the place to keep your baby under wraps over winter. 24 hour surveillance and maintenance services. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00, info@marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar. Don’t miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where to eat”. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Marina Kornati Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com, www. marinakornati.com. A full service marina close to the Kornati National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd. The marina is backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija and Kornati, owned by the same company as the marina. See “Where to stay” under “Out of town”. Charter available. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. (+385-23) 33 27 00/(+385-23) 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc. hr, www.tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest to the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a restaurant with a great sunset view and secure parking. Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. W

29.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday

Rafting

E-2, Jazine Bay. Adventure enthusiasts should head on down to the sport harbour Jazine in Zadar for some thrills and spills that might give you chills. Over 25 athletes will acrobatically display some amazing skills on water in a growing sport that combines water skiing, snow-boarding and surfing.

In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride. Bora Tours F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, info@boratours.hr, www.boratours.hr. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 20:00. A

Wakeboard Contest Zadar

05.08 Sunday

The 40th traditional swimming marathon Preko-Zadar

Kolovare bb. Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riviera, you can catch the ships which leave for Preko at 7.30am as the event starts at 9am. By 10am the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools. Fun and fitness for all.

25.08 Saturday

Jadran Rowing Duel

E-2, Jazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr. Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts at 4pm and its 500 meters in distance. More fun.... 07.07. Zadar: Aquatlon 08-09.09. Dugi Otok: Aquatlon,Triatlon 09.08. Dugi Otok: Triatlon 11.08. Ist: Swimming Marathon

Konjički klub Epona N/O-1, Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel. (+385-) 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.

Marinas ACI Šimuni Obala 1, Kolan, Pag Island, tel. (+385-23) 69 74 57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 200 berths, 60 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels up to 8m. Q Reception Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00 Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 06/(+385-) 091 576 53 11, sinisakulisic@gmail. com. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little bay and with a good restaurant. Q Reception Open 07:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Zadar In Your Pocket

Sailing There’s no better way to spend your holiday. Why? 1. You can go faster. 2. You can get to paradise beaches where nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great. Need we say more? Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www. euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 76/(+385-23) 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www. uskok.biz.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Yacht Club Biograd Kralja Petra Svačića 17, tel. (+385-23) 38 53 35, info@yc-biograd.com, www.ycbiograd.com.

Tennis Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Sutomiška ulica 1 (uvala Draženica), tel. (+385-23) 33 20 22. QOpen 12:00 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. 50kn / per hour.

Windsurfing Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone your skills, or learn the basics. Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www. surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

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DIVING

People have always been curious to discover the secrets concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails. But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal the greatest mysteries of the planet. On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for example, that towards the end of the 19th century people from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they had made themselves.

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Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore. This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers. The Adriatic is shallow, warm and sal t y. Th e seabed is either rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents i n p l a c e s, m a i n l y i n channels where the water surges between islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands. Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast. The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of the most attractive locations here are around the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik area.

Summer 2012

DIVING

Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting – and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are: the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the island of Korčula. Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka. Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks with a special permit. And you need prior permission from the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following locations: The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, L astovo an d Palagruža Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57.

The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you have finished. Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing! We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!

Dive centres Zadar Sub Dubrovačka 20a, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 21

48 48, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, BIograd na Moru, tel. (+385-) 098 193 53 30, info@albamaris.hr, www. albamaris.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Scuba Adriatic Zaton Holiday Resort, tel. (385-) 098 68 69 99, info@scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic. com. Open Mon - Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an individual or as part of a group. If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact a registered diving instructor, school or association (see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to depths greater than 40m.

Zadar In Your Pocket

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SHOPPING Art Galleries Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Laudato D-3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 589 84 14, laudato@laudato.hr, www.laudato.hr. Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 16 24/ (+385-) 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A Museum of Ancient Glass Shop D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www. mas-zadar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 60. Paintings, ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar artisans. The staff will also help you with tourist information. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098 975 76 61/(+385-) 095 909 67 63. Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 91. No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan. Q Open 09:00 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Are you a philatelist? Stamp collector that is….Great news as the Zadar Museum is carousing its big jubilee – 180 years since its founding. Celebrations c on tinu e wi t h t h e issuing of a post stamp which depicts a relief of Saint Chrysogonus from the 13th century! Be sure to add that to your collection…

mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying Paški sir. Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy. (And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a tastebud-tingling delicacy). Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread, butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of olives and a good glass of red wine. Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria). QOpen 08:00 - 13:30, Sun 08:00 - 10:30. Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30. QOpen 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. A Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr. Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. N

Bookshops Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen shop The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sunbaked terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is

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Jewellery designer Antonija Gospić runs workshops in the Museum of Ancient Glass, and you can buy her designs in Marival, Ulica Don Ive Prodana.

Summer 2012

SHOPPING

Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices. QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. (+385-23) 32 22 25/(+385-) 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr. This family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’ and goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. Q Open 08:00 16:00, Sat and Sun Open by prior arrangement. Vagabondo D-3, Špire Brusine 13. A large selection of wines from the Zadar County. Some of which are worth your attention. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J

Foreign newspapers For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Ulica plemića Borelli 25 (C-3).

Nautical supplies Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 68.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 24.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 58.Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 53 98. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs The Zadar National Museum Shop C-3, Narodni trg. Want an

original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum’s artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J

Shopping centres City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P Supernova centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Zadar In Your Pocket

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Forum, Tim Ertl

Banks & Exchanges Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29 19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. Q June,

September Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 24:00. Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 08, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1a, tel. (+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Karnarutića 13, tel. (+385-23) 20 83 00, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Brokerage houses OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. (+385-) 062 20 16 69, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Business connections HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire

Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka

ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73, ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789 29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri

08:00 - 14:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & Translators Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99, acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 13:30. Closed Sun. Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. (+385-23) 31 27 58/(+385) 098 964 24 34, jasminka.bajlo@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Real estate Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 16

67/(+385-) 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonicnekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gea D-3, Mihovila Klaića 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 11 33/ (+385-23) 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Palmes Ugljan 22, Ugljan Island, tel. (+385-23) 28 80 27/(+385-) 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine. hr, www.palmes-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 91 39, 23 91 41/(+385-) 091 235 92 33, info@nekretninephoenix.hr, www.nekretnine-phoenix.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31 34 17, sanmark.zadar@gmail.com, www.sanmark. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Summer 2012

LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Dry cleaners & Laundries

Photocopying

Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30,

Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 70 54, pharos@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:30,

Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71. Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00,

Photography

17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V Lotos J - 3, Ivana Gundulića 4d, tel. (+385-23) 33 51 40. Laundries. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

- 14:00. Closed Sun. J

Emergency health care

Police station

Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28a, tel. (+385-23) 23 98 11. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Hospital Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23) 50 55 05, www.bolnica-zadar.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Pharmacies Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23

58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+38523) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+38523) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6b, tel. (+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 13:30. Closed Sun. A

Zadar In Your Pocket

Foto link D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 48, info@londonlink.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00

Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. (+385-23) 34 51 41, pitanja@mup.hr, www.zadarska.policija.hr.

Vets Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32 36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com. hr, www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23) 31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar. com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel. (+38523) 32 28 77. Animal clinic. For an emergency call 098 33 94 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95, www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

BIRDWATCHING BIRDWATCHINGIN INCROATIA CROATIA

Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal www. ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec, with our thanks. Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity, partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local ornithological societies and other organisations, including schools, are also making a significant contribution through monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not only to protect birds but the environment as a whole. According to data from the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment, in December 1999, there were 371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species in Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high number of endangered species due to disappearing habitats, especially wetlands, and due to poaching. The majority of protected species are to be found in hard-to-reach areas

Darko Podravec

Zadar In Your Pocket

Darko Podravec such as mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas such as the Neretva delata on the Adriatic coast and along the Sava and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close to the large fish farms to be found in Pannonian Croatia. Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in nature protection in areas where there are large bird populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International has identified 23 Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment has recognised 40 areas which are important for bird life. Some of these areas are bird reserves, some form parts of national parks or nature parks, while others do not enjoy any form of protection. Although there a re b i rd watc h i n g opp or tu ni ti e s al l year round, the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the arrival of visitors from northern Europe and Asia. In spring, the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of Africa return to nest. At any time, Darko Podravec you might spot a species that is just passing through en route to somewhere else: Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and from Africa for a large number of European bird species. There are guide books available to help you identify species and understand their behaviour.

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BIRDWATCHING IN CROATIA

Darko Podravec The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their most active, especially during the summer when birds, like people, avoid the hottest part of the day. Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital to take care not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing to their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you risk the parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially where endangered species are concerned. The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will scare the birds away. Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds, in their behaviour and habitats. Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below we list a range of organisations which might be of interest to nature lovers, although there might neither be much information about birds in specific nor professional guides. Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please contact the organisation responsible, which will give you any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it. Lake Vrana Nature Park / Lake Vrana Bird Reserve Lake Vrana lies alongside the coast road between Zadar and Šibenik, or more precisely, between Pirovac and Pakoštane. 241 bird species have been logged in the area of the Nature Park, 102 of which nest here. This is a good place to spot

the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), Great Bittern (Botaurus stellaris), Corncrake (Crex crex) and Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides), all endangered species in Europe. The Park staff can organise visits on foot or by boat to birdwatching sites upon request. The price of a visit, complete with an expert guide, is 100kn/h per person, and the trip can take up to five hours. Entry tickets to the Nature Park are also payable (20kn adults, children 7 - 18, 10kn). Visitors should bring their own birdwatching equipment, and call ahead to announce group visits. Lake Vrana Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, 38 64 52, pp-vransko-jezero@ zd.t-com.hr,www.vransko-jezero.hr. Pag island The island of Pag is home to the following bird reserves: Kolansko blato, Blato Rogoza, Veliko blato and Malo blato. All of these are marshlands which are home to species including the Gadwall (Anas strepera), Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) and Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra), which are endangered in Europe. Call into the Tourist Association in Povljana to buy entry tickets for the Veliko blato reserve, which has a hide with a checklist. Povljana Tourist Association Stjepana Radića 20, Povljana, tel. (+385-23) 69 20 03, (+385)098 184 21 29, tz-povljana@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-povljana.hr. Kolan Tourist Association Trg kralja Tomislava, Kolan, tel. (+385-23) 69 82 90, info@tzkolan-mandre.com, www.tzkolan-mandre.com. Te l a š ć i c a N a t u r e P a r k Th i s fantastic nature park in the Telašćica Bay on Dugi Otok is also designated an Important Bird Area. 110 bird species have been sighted here. Perhaps the most exciting birds to spot are birds of prey such as the Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus). The Park is accessible by boats laid on by travel agencies and private boat owners, or from dry land from the town Darko Podravec of Sali. Entry tickets cost 14 - 60kn. If you require a guide, please phone one week in advance. Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23)37 70 96, 37 73 95, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Kornati National Park A national park made up of some 90 islands, islets and reefs spanning the area between Biograd and Šibenik. The land is owned by the residents of the surrounding islands. This is also an Important Bird Area, although it’s insufficiently researched with respect to fauna and flora so there are no accurate data on numbers of species. In common with other island habitats, owls, seagulls and the European Shag (no tittering, you at the back)

Darko Podravec

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Summer 2012

BIRDWATCHING IN CROATIA can be spotted here. You can visit Kornati if you have your own boat, or as part of a trip organised by a travel agencies and private boat owners in the areas of Šibenik, Murter, Zadar, Biograd and the islands in the Darko Podravec Zadar area. Tickets are for sale in the Park itself and in local travel agencies, and cost 150 - 1500kn depending on the size of the boat. There are no guided tours. Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr. Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park occupies the coastal part of the southern Velebit mountains. The Park is famous for the large difference in altitudes you cross as you travel through it, complete with changes in climate, all in a relatively small area. Bird species you might spot on the rock and cliff faces include the Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and the Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Rare and endangered birds of prey to be found here include the Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Short-Toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentiles). Entry tickets to the park cost 50kn depending on the time of year. Birdwatching as an individual is not permitted: please call ahead to organise a tour with one of the Park’s official guides. Paklenica National Park dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02, prezentacija@ paklenica.hr, np - paklenica@zd.t- com.hr, w w w. paklenica.hr.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Velebit Nature Park / Northern Velebit National Park The Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia, stretching 145km from Vratnik near Senj to the River Zrmanja near Zadar. It is not classified as an Important Bird Area, nor does it have any bird reserves, but it does encompass three Parks: the Northern Velebit National Park, the Velebit Nature Park and the Paklenica National Park. It has two strict nature reserves (both in the Northern Velebit National Park) as well as nature reserves for plant life, and the area is rich in flora and fauna. Nesting sides of the following birds are to be found here: the Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum), the Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), the Western Capercaillie or Wood Grouse (Tetrao urogallus), White Backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopus leucotos) and the the Boreal Owl (Aegolius funereus). Velebit National Park Kaniža Gospićka 4b, Gospić, tel. (+385-53) 56 04 50, Krasno office (+385-53) 85 16 00, Obrovac office (+385-23)68 98 18, velebit@pp-velebit. hr, www.pp-velebit.hr. Northern Velebit Nature Park Krasno 96, Krasno, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. Senj Info Centre Obala kralja Zvonimira, tel.(+385-53) 88 45 51. There are no organised birdwatching activities. Val agency This travel agency organises birdwatching tours over several days in Dalmatia during the spring and autumn migrating seasons. Please check www.croatiabirding.hr. for details, dates and prices. Val-tours, Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-tours.hr,www.valtours.hr.

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ZADAR COUNTY

Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

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Tourist information

Dugi otok Tourist Board Obala Perta Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.dugiotok.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Admission 60kn.

Iž This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Tourist information

Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž 195, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

Summer 2012

ZADAR COUNTY

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks. Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an ecocottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Tourist information

Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www.pasman.hr. Tkon Tourist Board Mulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, tz-opcinetkon@zd.t-com.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance. The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry. In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants. In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline

Pag Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Zadar In Your Pocket

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ZADAR COUNTY of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@ zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”). Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

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Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

Tourist information

Silba Tourist Board, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.silba.net.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest. Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day. Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, kukljica@kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr. Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Summer 2012

ZADAR COUNTY

Zaton This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during t h e Tu r k i s h wars. Th e 16 th c en tur y Kaštelin Tower was built as a de fense structure a g a i n s t potential invaders. The engraved Latin inscription and coat o f arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and

Zadar In Your Pocket

extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste a n d b u d get. Z aton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment h o t e l s . Th e Z a to n Holiday Resor t is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

Tourist information

Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, sales. dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Zaton Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet. hr, www.zaton-zd.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. zadar.inyourpocket.com

ZADAR COUNTY

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Summer 2012

ZADAR COUNTY Biograd The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty. You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked

Nin Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell. The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments. Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture. The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical,

Zadar In Your Pocket

mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water. As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mothernature that provides the perfect getaway. We recommend that you visit: Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 35kn. Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica 2a, Žerava, tel. (+385-23) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn. Nin Tourist Board Trg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385-23) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@ zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr. The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop Ilirska cesta 7. Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species). Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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ZADAR COUNTY

Lake Vrana Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside. Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21. Open 07:00-15:00, 19:0022:00. Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 kn. Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from th e ol d town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. Th e p i n e w o o d s e x t e n d further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apar tment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

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Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast. Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Tourist information

Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@ tzg-biograd.hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vranskojezero@zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors all day which includes weekends. Summer 2012

ZADAR COUNTY

Ancient Churches and Castles of Zadar County

Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs. the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea, hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop to ancient buildings. If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16 kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva svetog Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an ancient burial mound, it’s easy to spot. When the Ottoman Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas was refortified again. There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County. Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians. As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road, then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It’s about a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th

Zadar In Your Pocket

century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag, guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač. The two are visible from each other, making one speculate what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route 106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the same name. You can reach this small town easily from the Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about 10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of town to the castle. The stately Velebit Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town

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ZADAR COUNTY with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored. It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took over. It became a rural county district under the French in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there. You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient, ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable. Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as

Climbing The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steepsided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers. One of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures, information and advice. Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/ (+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr.

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medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post. Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those described above are the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through the millennia. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

Tourist information

Benkovac Tourist Board Ante

Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+38523) 68 18 34, tzg-benkovac@zd.tcom.hr, www.tz-benkovac.hr. www. benkovac-bastina.net - a website with pictures of Benkovac’s cultural and historical heritage.

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

Summer 2012

Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Dinarska J-4 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3

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Đure Sudete J-3,4 Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana Bršića K-5 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3

Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3

Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4

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Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4 Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Trg opatice Čike B-3 Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3

Trg Petra Zoranića Trg sv. Frane Trg sv. Krševana Trg sv. Stošije Trg tri bunara Ulica BoreLli Varoška Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Veslačka Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vladimira Papafave Voštarnica Vrata sv. Kršovana Vrata sv. Roka Zadarskog mira Zlatarska Zore dalmatinske Zrinsko-Frankopanska

L-6/D-3 K-6/A-3 K-5/B,C-2 K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-4 K-5 K-5 K-6 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 M-5

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Summer 2012