Zadar In Your Pocket No13

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zadar Summer 2016

Roman Cosmetics

Beauty through the ages

Paths Of Salt

The essential element of life N°13 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.com

Secret Islands Escape the crowds

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Sightseeing

39

Check out the highlights

Foreword

4

Arrival & Getting Around

5

8

The A-Z of Zadar

Croatia’s Secret Islands

10 13 24 30

Age old tradition

Coffee & Cakes 34 Treat yourself

Nightlife Music to your ears

Shopping

59

Hotels

62

Places to stay for every pocket

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Local Flavour

57

Priceless places and buys

You won’t be bored

Restaurants

Leisure Recreational pleasure

Your place to relax

Culture & Events

Zadar Surroundings 48 The top getaways

Lost? Help is at hand

Zadar Basics

Paths Of Salt 47 From the Roman Empire to now

A warm welcome with a wow factor

36

List of Small Features

14 16 22 32 59

Beauty in Roman times Nikola Tesla How are glass souvenirs made?

The Foodie’s guide Affordable art

Maps

64 66

City Centre Map City Map/Street Register

Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum of Illusions where things do not appear as they should. Read more at page 44.

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Summer 2016 3

Foreword Honesty is the best policy and during the summer sea@InYourPocket son, the city of Zadar, just like most other major coastal towns, does get overpopulated. Therefore, to avoid being cramped and people hearing the ‘oh no, we’re packed like sardines’ lingo, as well as the extreme heat, we suggest you follow our mini tips andvine.co/inyourpocket recommendations because to put it simply, ‘we know,’ so do follow! Mornings are the best time to browse the city and fish markets, enjoy the scents and colours of local food from the surrounding areas and villages, and drink coffee with locals because it is at this time that many visitors are still fast asleep or elsewhere. If you are a true early bird, you still have the time to go for a swim in the clear sea as this can be done in the city itself right on the Riva. Seeing a museum or two is also a lovely way to spend your morning too. In terms of noon, this is youtube.com/inyourpocket best spent in the shade where possible and lunch can be eaten in any of the recommended restaurants from our IYP guide. When the sun goes down then getting out is what it’s all about, the party and festivities are aplenty. And depinterest.com/inyourpocket pending on how many days you have available, island hopping and visiting national parks is the best way to destress and be totally impressed!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1334-9228

Company Office What’s & Accountsgoing on?

Višnja Arambašić facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Zadar In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sv. Nedelja

Where’s the party?

Editorial Editor facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Jelena Šimić Valentić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac the Assistant Editor All Blanka Valićlatest news Community manager Eli Gajinov facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Design Lovro Boljat Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Mladen Radolović, Zadar Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac

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COVER STORY

Brgulje, a village on Molat reviews online: More ??chapter?? island in the Zadar archi??city??.inyourpocket.com pelago. Its bay is a safe and beautiful anchorage for yachts.

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4 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY BOAT Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

JADROLINIJA QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00/(+38523) 25 05 55, ag.zadar@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija. hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+38523) 25 10 01, ag.zadar@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija. hr. Open 06:00 - 22:15.

QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ (+385-23) 66 61 01, ag.gazenica@jadrolinija.hr, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 - 23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00.

MIATOURS Catamaran Lines Zadar- Premuda - Silba- Olib.QB‑2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.miatours.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

ARRIVING BY BUS The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.

ZADAR COACH STATION Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

ARRIVING BY CAR The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

ARRIVING BY PLANE Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones.

Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

ZADAR AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA ZADAR) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40.

Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains.Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.

Summer 2016 5

Arrival & Getting Around EUROBIKE - BIANCHI QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 2a, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A MONDENA TRAVEL QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/ (+385-) 098 65 47 02, info@mondenatravel.hr, www. mondenatravel.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement. A ZZUUM QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385-) 091 733 16 10/(+385-) 098 27 21 00, info@zzuum.com, www.zzuum.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

CENTRAL TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR) QO‑1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55/Na‑ tional info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

BIKING Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted. Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

CALIMERO QM‑5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1a, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, info@calimero-sport.hr, www.calimero-sport.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A

CAR RENTAL AVIA Rent a scooter too. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD‑2, Narod‑ nog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 570 22 31, info@avia-rentacar.hr, www.avia-rentacar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30. A DOLLAR & THRIFTY QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. A HERTZ QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. A LULIĆ Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 07:00 - 23:00.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

A

TOURIST INFORMATION

MODUL AUTO QO‑1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, modulauto@zd.t-com.hr, www.modulauto.hr. Open 08:00 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@ zadar.travel, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00.

ORYX QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 15/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, kristijan.zebic@oryx-rent.hr, www.oryx-rent.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A

ZADAR TOURIST BOARD QD‑3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+38523) 21 17 81, info@zadar.travel, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

RENT A - H ZADAR Rent a scooter.QL‑5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

ZADAR COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QA‑3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, info@zadar.hr, www. zadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TERRA QG‑2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, info@ terratravel.hr, www.terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

6 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

LEFT LUGGAGE BAGUL Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your belongings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour depending on the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. Up to 50 kn for the entire day!QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 7, tel. (+385-23) 23 04 82/(+385-) 091 956 48 04. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:30 - 21:00.

PARKING Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

In May, June and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn.

Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

LIBURNIJA QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

TAXI There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

Summer 2016 7

Zadar Basics CUSTOMS

ROADS

There are no longer custom limits between EU member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

SMOKING

ELECTRICITY

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

VISAS

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

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Croatian visa policy is fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department.

Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 19 87, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195.

8 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Croatia’s Secret Islands

Photo by Darko Veršić

Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.

SUSAK Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.

In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.

Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment.

Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring.

Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to restore fertility.

Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the more intriguing Croatian islands!

10 Zadar In Your Pocket

SILBA With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love back home.

Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujević-Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.

Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.

PRVIĆ Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.

Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the coast. Among the children who have been lucky to spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands ŠOLTA

KOLOČEP

Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina. Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts.

Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.

The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.

LOPUD For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay.

A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants.

ŠIPAN The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 his-

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Summer 2016 11

Croatia’s Secret Islands toric summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service.

Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.

GIFTS FOR HUNGRY LOVED ONES One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what better gift for those back home than something to nibble?

GRISINIA A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.

OLIVE LEAF TEA Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.

KRK ISLAND PRŠUT To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is a product that varies depending on the environment and the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/ Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).

SALT PETALS Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr MACARONI NEEDLES One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).

12 Zadar In Your Pocket

DECK YOUR HOME WITH CROATIAN GOODS WOOL SLIPPERS FROM CRES ISLAND Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, cres.ruta@gmail.com, www.ruta-cres.hr.

PAG, LEPOGLAVA AND HVAR LACE The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, gradpag@zd.t-com.hr, www.pag.hr. Open 09:30 - 12:00 and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30.

LIPA RUGS A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes.

These rugs can be used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor. Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, lipa1@windowslive.com. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.

STONE PESTLE AND MORTAR Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 907 04 68, drazenjaksic40@gmail.com, also in Split in the basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre of Korčula town.

KUNJSKA SPARA A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and still do) carry on their heads on their return home from the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, marija.grdas@zd.htnet.hr. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Archaeological Museum Archives

The Culture Trip ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN ZADAR AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... FROM CLASSIC AND TRADITIONAL, TO URBAN AND ACTIVE

Culture & Events

Archaeological Museum Archives

BEAUTY IN ROMAN TIMES Among the most fragile and fascinating exhibits in Zadar’s Archaeological Museum are those connected with cosmetics. How many of us realise that in ancient civilisations people were already using cosmetics to improve their appearance and make themselves smell gorgeous?

One of the earliest women famous for using cosmetics was Egyptian Pharaoh Cleopatra, whose life coincided with the early days of the Roman Empire. Most of us know the legend of her bathing in asses’ milk to preserve the beauty of her skin. We also have a pretty good idea of what she looked like, with her eyes defined with black kohl and probably green or blue makeup. It would be mistaken though to think of her as a kind of proto Kim Kardashian as she was a mighty ruler witha razor-sharp intellect.

The Romans’ use of makeup was nothing new, but drew on traditions from the civilizations of the east, where the ingredients used to create makeup and perfume were abundant in nature and had been in use for centuries beforehand.

The Romans themselves had an ambivalent attitude to cosmetics, which were used mainly by the very wealthy or by prostitutes. Christians tended to believe that embellishing yourself was either going against God’s will or a clear sign of being deceitful or adulterous. While most male writers at the time were disapproving of excessive use of makeup, there are no records of women having any problem with it. The only writer on record as being cool with makeup was Ovid, generally a smashing bloke anyway.

However, women weren’t the only ones to face condemnation for using cosmetics. It wasn’t unusual for men to sport flamboyant hairstyles, to whiten their faces and to remove hair from their faces and bodies.

However, men had to tread a fine line between being considered a bit sketchy on the personal hygiene front and being overly effeminate and thus decadent and immoral.

14 Zadar In Your Pocket

Nonetheless, it was socially acceptable to maintain the health of your skin, so using cosmetics to improve the skin’s condition was widespread, as was exercising to improve one’s health and appearance. People could be seen pounding elliptical cross trainers and reading OK! magazine across the length and breadth of the Roman Empire.

The realities of using cosmetics were rather different to modern times. For one thing, the ingredients tended to be rather different. Most scarily, to achieve the much-prized whiteness of skin, not easy with a Mediterranean complexion and climate, white lead was used as a cosmetic ingredient. Little did people know poisonous lead is absorbed through the skin, leading slowly to sickness and death. A less risky but equally scary-sounding alternative skin-whitener was crocodile dung.

To lubricate the skin and preserve its youthful look, the Romans reached for whiffy-sounding ingredients from swan fat to gladiator sweat. Like us though, they applied lanolin to their faces to soften their skin as they slept, only they lacked the technology to get rid of the smell of sheep from that particular ingredient.

However, the Romans were very well aware of the art of the perfumer, and to those who could afford them trade routes made available all kinds of exotic, sweetsmelling ingredients. Rose petals, lavender, jasmine, lily and frankincense were ingredients that were traded across the empire, producing scented oils and balms that people used to fragrance their skin, their hair and even their walls and their doves in order to make pleasant their surroundings. Closer to home, the Illyrian iris, growing on the coast of today’s Dalmatia, was prized for its scent and used to make necklaces of sweetsmelling beads.

Equally beautiful and exotic were the boxes and vials used to store cosmetics. They ranged from boxes made of simple bone to decorative ivory caskets. The Romans also knew glass is one of the best containers for cosmetics since it doesn’t react with its ingredients. In the Archaeological Museum you can see containers and vials unearthed in the local environs and once used to store cosmetics. Other interesting finds include glass wands used to apply kohl around the eyes, hair grips from Zadar and Nin and amber rings depicting women with the hairstyles popular at the time.

Looking at the collection, it’s easy to imagine the scene of a wealthy Roman woman sitting in her dressing room, entry to men strictly forbidden, surrounded by slave women dipping into her wardrobe and the cupboard containing her cosmetics and jewellery boxes.

Attending to her bath, skincare, dress, makeup, hair and perfume… making sure she looks just so. Beautiful, but natural enough to keep within the conventions of her time.In the Museum shop you can also buy to take home bottles and glass jewellery handcrafted on the premises and inspired by the designs found at archaeological sites in the Zadar region. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events DANCE EVENTS 16.06 THURSDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY 6TH ZADAR TANGO FESTIVAL Love tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza as performance pairs strut their stuff at the 6th edition of this event. Passersby are more than welcome to join in and even learn from the best! Over three days of the festival you will be able to enjoy a fever pitch concert by ‘Sexteto milonguero’ in Ancient Glass Museum on the opening night, participate in various dance workshops with professionals, partake in milonga nights at the Q-bar, and the vehement milonga open air show held at the Narodni trg.QB‑2 and C‑3, Q-bar, Liburnska 6 and Narodni trg, www.tango-zadar.hr.

Vak’an’za Festival Archives - Photo by Iva Perinčić

25.07 MONDAY LADO ENSEMBLE LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed.QC‑3, Trg sv.Marije. Concert starts at 21:00.

25.08 THURSDAY - 03.09 SATURDAY 8TH MONOPLAY - FESTIVAL SOLA This is the 8th Monoplay festival featuring contemporary dances and solo performances by Croatian and foreign dancers and choreographers. Along with the dance performances, workshops and lectures will be offered. Let your body feel the music as you watch these modern and innovative dances.QD‑3, Zadar Puppet Theatre, Trg Branka Stojakovića, www.umjetnickaorganizacija2121.hr.

ELECTRONIC MUSIC 01.07 FRIDAY THE PRODIGY - JAZINE OPEN AIR Hot on the heels and just into summer, one of Britain’s alltime top electro rave/punk acts roll into the outdoor Jazine venue for a mega hot night of raw music and energy. The band hit the world scene in the 90s and has been dubbed as one of the pioneers of the big beat genre. In the words of band member Keith Flint (vocals), ‘rising on stage is like going into battle’!QM‑5, Car Park Jazine. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 220 - 250kn, www.eventim.hr.

Zadar Tango Festival Archives Amira Medunjanin

22.07 FRIDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY HYTE ZADAR One of the world’s leading brands in hosting international DJ headliners and festivals travels to the Mediterranean and has chosen Zadar, Europe’s best destination in 2016, as their next venture. For two days and nights revelers will experience the extra special production effects taking place at Kolovare Beach which will host several world class DJs of electronic music and genre.QN‑6, Kolovare Beach, www. hyte.net. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2016 15

Culture & Events EXHIBITIONS 05.05 THURSDAY - 09.09 FRIDAY GORDANA DRINKOVIĆ: THE POWER OF FRAGILITY 5.5 TO 9.9 Glass reflects, is transparent and fragile. Yet this material has put Gordana Drinković into the limelight of product design and artistic design in glass. In her 25 year career, she has developed and implemented more than 500 works of art and everyday objects (sculptures, candlesticks, glasses, bowls, vases…). Much of the work has been produced in the form of exclusive designer series’ and are a part of private collections worldwide. Now it’s time for her work to shine again!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.

and gone; but what has remained? For one, our medieval cities and fortresses! Photographer Tomislav Rosandić presents these impressive archaeological monuments and sites through this photo exhibit.QC‑3, Archeological Museum, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.

13.06 MONDAY - 31.08 WEDNESDAY REPTILES OF THE WORLD The weather could be scorching hot but these cold blooded reptiles will be soaking up the sun. The Narodni Trg is where an abundant amount of lizards, crocodiles and primarily snakes will be exhibited for all to see. If you’re brave enough, you can handle snakes and get photos taken as well. King cobras, rattlesnakes, vipers, a green mamba, pythons and more will slither... QD‑3, City Lodge, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr.

05.05 THURSDAY - 10.09 SATURDAY PREHISTORIC GLASS FROM NOVO MESTO Come and see the archaeological findings discovered in Novo Mesto over the last 300 years. These date back to the BC period and feature striking coloured glass and amber bead necklaces. Due to the large number of diverse shapes, sizes and colour combinations, glass beads from Novo Mesto differ from the findings of other European archaeological sites. The development and complexity of the jewellery can be seen over the periodic Ages. A definite treasure in terms of European heritage!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.

24.06 FRIDAY - 08.07 FRIDAY FRIENDS OF THE SEA - THE BLUE HOUR For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been selected by the expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića, www. prijateljimora.com. J

18.05 WEDNESDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY LONELY GIANTS – STONE TESTIMONY From the earliest times Croatia has geographically always been a meeting place of different cultures and traditions.

Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, and many others have come

JUNE - SEPTEMBER MEDICAMINA FACIEI FEMINAE Step into the footprints of a female living in Ancient Rome for one day, follow her daily routine from morning till night and witness the efforts gone into preserving beauty. This exhibit looks at exactly that, ancient cosmetic products.

See combs, hairpins, mirrors, bottles for perfumes and ointments, eye shadows, creams, and ointments and oils to prevent wrinkles and scars. Not to mention hairstyles and clothing of course!QC‑3, Archaeological Museum, Trg Opatice Čike 1, tel. (+38523) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.

A MASTER OF LIGHTNING This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe. The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla.

The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe.With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen.

16 Zadar In Your Pocket

01.07 FRIDAY - 31.07 SUNDAY MALGORZATA CHOMICZ: DEPLORATIO Over the last three years Chomicz has been experimenting with 2D and 3D options, transforming drawings and graphics into engravings and sculptures. Her body of work is based on several themes including ‘Psalms’, ‘Jesus and Angels’ which can be seen in her canvas, drawings, etchings and sculptures.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.

30.07 SATURDAY - 16.08 TUESDAY CROATIA FROM THE AIR See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and photographer Davor Rostuhar. National Geographic gave it the thumbs up with photos of natural and cultural landmarks aplenty.

QA‑4, The Sea Organ, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Zadar Summer Theatre Festival - Photo by Željko Karavida

JAZZ & SWING CONCERTS

ROCK & POP CONCERTS

07.07 THURSDAY BLACK COFFEE LATIN EXPRESSION Lovers of Latino look out as this sort after jazz group take a twist for the summer season thanks to the famous percussionist Andy Petko making a special joint appearance.

Their repertoire includes Latin standards of Brazilian music for the most, yet supplemented with a few Caribbean numbers too. The beautiful Zadar singer Martina Thomas will lead the evening. Also at 26.07. , 11.08. and 25.08.

QB‑3, Trg sv.Stošije. Concerts start at 21:00. J

17.06 FRIDAY ELEMENTAL Hard to pinpoint, easy to listen to! Elemental is a band whose musical foundation reverts mostly to funky rap and hip-hop but evidently cannot be reduced to any single musical genre. In their colorful musical vision, Elemental is known for dynamic stage performances, the specificity of their sharp lyrics and interesting instrumental tunes which together form the authentic sound.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge Bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Medijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96, www.ledana.hr. Concert starts at 23:00.

27.07 WEDNESDAY - 29.07 FRIDAY JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL The zesty sounds of these genres will for three days become a draw card for some of the world’s best jazz and blues musicians. The opening night belongs to Fred Wesley and the New JBs, this legendary composer and trombonist is best known for his work with James Brown. The second day is reserved for the Saskia Laroo Project, this Dutch female trumpeter teams up with American pianist and vocalist Warren Byrd for some funk, rap, and hip hop jazz which is 100% organic.

The finale belongs to NO BS! Brass, an 11 piece group who are set to bring the curtains down with their heartpounding energy and downright funky New Orleans sound fused with modern funk, and a pinch of hip hop.

QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar).

Open 11:00 -13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. J

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

20.07 WEDNESDAY SONGKILLERS One of Zagreb’s all-time top pop funky bands are back on the charts and performing live again. The band has been in the industry for 20 years and has somewhat of a cult status and their own following. With six studio albums and many chart topping singles, it still seems that they always sound best when they sing about love.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge Bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Medijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96, www.ledana.hr. Concert starts at 23:00.

22.07 FRIDAY PAVEL Meet one of Croatia’s cemented pop/rock/acoustic acts with a slightly melancholy feel. Pavel have been around since 2007 and have risen to fame with hits such as ‘Morska’ and the duet ‘Ako si za, mogli bi jednom izaći’ with Maja Posavec.

The musicianship and harmony between the eight band artists on stage can be captured at the Arsenal venue.QB‑1, Ar‑ senal, Trg tri bunara 1, www.arsenalzadar.com. Concert starts at 22:30. Tickets 50kn available at www.eventim.hr.

Summer 2016 17

Culture & Events 12.08 FRIDAY MASSIMO One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice.QB‑3, Forum. Concert starts at 22:00.

SPECIAL EVENTS 16.06 THURSDAY SEXTETO MILONGUERO One of Argentina’s greatest cultural exports is their music, their tango, an inspiration to many lovers of Latino. Sexteto Milonguero is a six-piece outfit that revives the tango music from the 50s, the passion from the provinces around Buenos Aires and beyond. Now they fuse Cuban, African and much more to create worldly rhythms yet always staying true to tango.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Ze‑ maljskog odbora 1, www.kuzd.hr. Concert starts at 21:00.

Tickets 50kn.

17.06 FRIDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY RISE UP FESTIVAL Get up and rock with local bands and artists, such as Abop, Mašinko, Groove Masters, Last Method, Chuby, Magul, DJ Renick. On Friday, June 17th, skaters, rollerbladers and BMX riders will show off their skills in Menza skate park.QE‑2, Old Zadar Puppet Theatre (Jazine). Tickets available at the Igrow Shop (Stomorica 2).

17.06 FRIDAY - 16.09 FRIDAY FEŠTICE Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.QŠiroka ulica, Kalelarga.

Events start at 21:00. J 29.06 WEDNESDAY - 04.08 THURSDAY 22ND ZADAR SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays.

Some of the highlights include ‘Red’ by John Logan, ‘Freud’s Last Session’ by Mark St.Germain, the dance show ‘Archiving The Secret Diary’ by Zadar Dance Ensemble and the comedy ‘Can’t Pay? Won’t Pay!’ by Dario Fo. Our very own Matija Dedić, who is a famous jazz pianis is set to open the festival. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.

QŠiroka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 31 45 86, 18 Zadar In Your Pocket

www.hnk-zadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8). J 05.07 TUESDAY - 19.07 TUESDAY DAYS OF THE SUN Organised by the association Eko-Zadar, this fair will be promoting healthy eating and traditional products, such as souvenirs made using a potter’s wheel, homemade liqueurs, jams, spices and sweets. Health gurus, make sure you don’t miss out on this spectacular event!QC‑3, Narod‑ ni trg, www.ekozadar.hr. J 09.07 SATURDAY AMIRA MEDUNJANIN Dubbed the ‘Bosnain Billie Holliday’, Amira sings traditional Bosnian folk music characterised by a slow tempo mixture of Oriental, European and Sephardic elements with rich harmony and melancholic melody. She reinvigorates songs dating hundreds of years with her unique and expressive voice.QB‑1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, www. arsenalzadar.com. Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 90 110kn available at www.eventim.hr.

11.07 MONDAY - 03.08 WEDNESDAY THE 56TH MUSICAL EVENINGS IN ST DONATUS If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you.

The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Concerts starts at 21:30.QB‑3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathe‑ dral, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 30 04 30, www.donat-festival.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). J 21.07 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY FULL MOON FESTIVAL On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event. Start at 18:00.QB/C‑4, Riva. J

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Culture & Events 28.07 THURSDAY - 29.07 FRIDAY KALELARGART A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QB/C‑3, Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni trg, Forum. Festival starts at 21:00. J 30.07 SATURDAY MILLENIUM JUMP When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air!

The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.QB/C‑4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. Starts at 14:00. J 11.08 THURSDAY ESMA REDŽEPOVA This Macedonian marvel of Roma music is undoubtedly the Queen of the genre in this part of the world. Charismatic Esma first won the hearts of audiences as a 14 year old back in 1957 and after spending 60 years on the music scene, and with over 1000 recorded songs under her name, Esma will zip into Zadar to help reverberate the sounds of gypsy, soul, funk and ethno music once again.

QB‑1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, www.arsenalzadar.com.

Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 100 - 210kn available at www.eventim.hr.

13.08 SATURDAY FESTIVAL OF SAND The idyllic town of Nin is known for its soft beautiful sandy beaches which makes it home to this rather unique event.

Two particular beaches (Kraljičina and Ždrijac) are ready for action and art in combo. Sculptures of sand will be made by mentors and tourists of all ages alike, so get ready to shovel, carve, mix and mould in putting together your very own sandy creations.QŽdrijac and Kraljičina Beach, Nin, www.nin.hr.

20.08 SATURDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY AVVANTURA FILMFORUM FESTIVAL ZADAR A platform for European co-productions and professional filmmakers by promoting Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences, film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole lot more.QB‑3, Forum, tel. (+385) 91 260 74 66, pr@ filmforumzadar.com, www.filmforumzadar.com. J

facebook.com/ zadarinyourpocket 20 Zadar In Your Pocket

SPORT EVENTS 13.07 WEDNESDAY BASKET TOUR This new wave of modified basketball has become a world hit and as Croatia is a basketball mad country, 16 Croatian cities will be hosting the pre national competitions with the best teams playing off in the city of Rijeka, July 30. The national champions will represent Croatia at the FIBA World Tour Masters in Debrecen, Hungary. Tournaments will be played in 4 categories (U13, U15, U18, seniors) with the best team winning valuable prizes. Entries are free and can be completed on the official website www.basket-tour.com. This is dynamic basketball to say the least, don’t miss the three point comp, dunking contest, and other attractive side events.QN‑5, City Galleria, Murvička 1, www.basket-tour.com. J 18.07 MONDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY VAK’’AN’’ZA 30,1% - SPORT & MUSIC FIESTIVAL (WATER POLO AMATEUR CUP OF ‘ANTI-WATER POLO PLAYERS AND NON-SWIMMERS’) Welcome to this Water-Polo Amateur Cup which brings this historical Olympic Sport to the people, this much sought after tournament is open to everyone and anyone; so be brave, form a team and register. Entertainment wise, the Zadar waterfront will host various bands including an Amy Winehouse Tribute band ‘Amy’s House’ and a Queen Tribute band, amongst other artists.QB‑4, Riva, Arsenal, info@ vakanza-zd.hr, www.vakanza-zd.com. J 05.08 FRIDAY THE 44TH TRADITIONAL SWIMMING MARATHON PREKO-ZADAR Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riviera (Ugljan Island), you can catch the ships which leave for Preko at 07:35 (from the Old Town) as the event starts at 09:00. By 10:00 the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools. Fun and fitness for all.QKolovare bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 23 20, info@pkzadar.hr, www.pkzadar.hr.

20.08 SATURDAY JADRAN ROWING DUEL Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts at 16:00 and its 500 meters in distance.QE‑2, Jazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

27.08 SATURDAY - 02.09 FRIDAY WORLD CHAMPIOSHIP TOPCAT K1 + ITC K2+K3 Fans of sailing can head to Biograd na Moru for this world class international event broken into categories. It involves sailing catamarans of various sizes with twin hulls; these are both fast and popular. The Topcat is a one-design sailing catamaran boat which is divided into several boat sizes. The Yacht Club Biograd has gained a name for itself by hosting large yacht races with up to 800 participants and much can be expected here also.QBiograd na Moru, www.ycbiograd.com. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG

Hideout Festival Archives

Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG

SUMMER BEATS 26.06 SUNDAY - 29.06 WEDNESDAY HIDEOUT FESTIVAL The 6th edition of this electronic summer party is set to deliver over 100 headline acts and underground DJs that will perform across several open-air stages.

The festival is located in Novalja and by the seaside with themed boat parties adding another dimension to revelers. A mixture of everything from house and techno to bass and grime will alarm the decibels.

This year’s line-up includes Jamie XX, Skepta, Andy C, Skream, Seth Troxler, Jamie Jones, MK, Joris Voorn and multitudes more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.hideoutfestival.com.

01.07 FRIDAY - 03.07 SUNDAY UES FESTIVAL 2016 United Electronic Sound (UES) set the platform for presenting the best local and regional artists as well as world musicians and trends; the festival is set at Zrće Beach, Croatia’s version of Ibiza, and is considered instagram heaven. Croatian, regional and European artists will praise the decks and share their musical traits in UK, house, deep, garage and techno sounds. Boat parties will take the festival offshore for those wanting a different party experience. Hear the music of Solardo, Emery Warman, Hott Like Detroit, Ana Cole, Antonio Zuza, Brun Dux, Chester, Dan Hayes, Jake Whitehouse, James Carter…QZrće Beach, Pag Island, www.uesmag.com.

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Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG

12.07 TUESDAY - 14.07 THURSDAY FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL Greetings and welcome to one of Europe’s leading HipHop and Urban music festivals which is set on the island of Pag. Mid July sees three mega clubs on Zrće beach transform with DJ’s, MC’s, boat and pool parties representing the absolute best in Hip-Hop, R&B and Grime.

Hear the likes of DJ Trauma, Applebum, Cheese on Bread, DJ Cut Supreme, Demir Cesar & Kidcut, DJ Phox, added, Melody Kane and more.QZrće Beach, Pag Is‑ land, fresh-island.org/2016/.

17.08 WEDNESDAY BARRAKUD 5TH ANNIVERSARY Never resting on their laurels, organisers have a special reason to go the extra mile this year with the 5th anniversary of this festival. Their classic motto of ‘Are you all ready to rave the world again, continues? DJ Paul Kalkbrenner has given his heart and soul to the event and will headline the main stage.QZrće Beach, Pag Island, www.zrce.eu.

21.08 SUNDAY - 25.08 THURSDAY SOUNUS FESTIVAL The Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya Nightclubs open their doors to an international audience each year for the Sonus Festival. For five days and five nights party goers can hear the best in the electronic underground scene across the Zrće Beach. Featured artists include Marco Carola, Jamie Jones, JamAlexandra, Apollonia, Archie Hamilton, Azimute,Bas Ibellini, Bella Sarris, Binh, Bunte Bummler, Cabanne, Carlo Lio, Cassy, Chris Liebing, and many more to come.QZrće Beach, Pag Island, www.sonus-festival.com.

Summer 2016 21

Culture & Events HOW ARE GLASS SOUVENIRS MADE? Zadar’s Museum of Glass, apart from a permanent exhibition, has workshops creating the Museum’s souvenirs: replicas of Roman bottles and jars, glasses and urns, glass beads, plates, jewellery and miniatures.

Every day between 09:00 and 14:00 visitors can watch the glassmakers at work, witnessing the process of creating these products using three techniques: glass blowing, working jewellery using a blowtorch and creating miniatures by blowing in borosilicate glass tubes.

The hand blowing technique is mainly used to create glass copies of Roman artefacts by free glassblowing or blowing into a mould. With the aid of long glass tubes and pipes, the glassblowers scoop up gobs of molten recycled crystal from the furnaces (at temperatures of 1300 Celsius) and blow into the tube, skillfully twisting the tube to shape the end product.The products are then put in the cooler at 500 degrees Celsius to allow them to gradually cool to room temperature so they don’t break. You can witness this process through a think glass panel at the visitor’s gallery on the second floor of the Museum. The workshop is run by Marko Štefanac.

Jewellery is made from little glass rods of various colours which are melted using a torch, also reaching temperatures of more than 1000 degrees Celsius.

As the stick softens, the melted glass is formed into a bead or other shape around a metal rod. Glass beads for necklaces and earrings are mainly based on ancient Greek and Roman designs, while rings are copies of designs from the Classical era. The jewellery workshop is on the ground floor of the Museum and is led by Antonija Gospić.

Also on the ground floor of the Museum is a workshop where miniatures are formed by blowing borosilicate glass tubes of various colours on a torch. This workshop is led by Ivana Matković.

One further workshop is where Antonija Gospić uses a fusion technique to create glass plates from single or double layer glass. This workshop does not have a viewing area. At 800 degrees, the melting point of glass, the layers of glass combine. Pigment is added and the plates are cooled in moulds of varying shapes.

The plates can be removed from the kilns the following day.

twitter.com/ inyourpocket 22 Zadar In Your Pocket

BEAUTY IN GLASS An interview with Gordana Drinković, artist and product designer in glass IYP: Gordana, could you introduce yourself to our readers? What do you think they might like to know about you?

Gordana: I’m an artist working in the medium of glass, producing artworks and working in product design. Over the last 25 years I have created more than 500 artworks and products which have gained a reputation in Croatia and worldwide for their personality, originality and artistic conception.

ZIYP: Where does the process of creating your works begin – with shapes you notice in nature or is the vision from within? Please tell us about your creative process.

Gordana: What I create is what I think about, what I feel, the way I live. I don’t have and don’t seek inspiration from outside myself. I’m a part of the world in which I live and in that sense I’m emotionally and socially engaged, but I create from a very personal, lived, intuitive perspective. Through my works I express my thoughts and feelings. All of my works have names, I experience them as creatures. They transmit my artistic vision. To make something new, something different, to create something new with meaning seems like mission impossible particularly when you’re working with traditional materials.

Everything already exists in a variety of forms. The form itself doesn’t have any particular meaning. The artist seeks to create new meaning, and the only way to bring new meaning is through ourselves, our creativity, the truth which is the path to understanding ourselves. An artist’s work is hard as you’re always at the beginning, struggling. (An area I’m particularly interested in is transforming the utilitarian into non-utilitarian art and vice versa. That concept is exactly what has made my work famous worldwide. Art that nobody lives with is pretty lonely). (If I were a man perhaps my work would have been purely artistic, but my female nature motivates me to bring materials and objects into closer contact with everyday life…

The Miljenice glasses are friends who console you; the light of a candle brings you peace… You can feel the beauty of the everyday through little things, through a little extra care, beauty which we can create ourselves. Sometimes a simple flower makes me happy. Then I experience the vase as an altar on which I place my experienced happiness.)

ZIYP: Why is glass so important to you, where does the special connection with glass as the material of your artistic creation come from?

Gordana: I’m in love with glass. You can never fully explain love for somebody or something. My love has its roots in my childhood when, playing, I observed the world through my mother’s crystal glasses as if through magic spectacles.

I became attracted to seeing reality displaced through the transparency of glass and refracted light. Falling in love developed into being in love. Glass is a material of particular beauty, full of contradictions, limitations… it is liquid made solid, an illusion of lightness and weight, fragility and hardness, a material shaped by people’s breath and by light… I zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

gave my exhibition in the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb in 2013 the name “Glass, my other body”. I can explain that name in the following words: Glass is close to me. In it and in its transparency I can and I want to express what I think and what I feel. Through works in glass I communicate with the world just as I communicate through my body, my words, my behaviour and my life.

ZIYP: How long does it take you to create a collection?

What is the path from the idea to reality?

Gordana: The creative process is something I cannot interrupt. I create out of necessity, not for fun. I can’t predict how long it will take me to seek and make real an idea. Most often though it happens over a period of months, though some collections have developed over years. I do my thinking and work on paper at home. I can’t shape glass directly with my hands, so I have to accept the intermediaries between myself and the materials. The intermediaries are the workers and the factory. My presence is necessary so the glassblower and the workers understand what I want to make, so that I can sow my spirit and energy into the glass. A drawing is not enough.

A synergy between all the actors in the process is required.

That means spending time on hot or cold factory factory floors, in draughts, on night time or early morning shifts, the weight of glass of which my back pain is a constant reminder… Apart from that, I love to work and be in the factory, by the furnaces full of molten glass.

ZIYP: What can you tell us about the exhibition which the people of Zadar and their guests will be able to see this summer?

Gordana: I decided to present in Zadar collections which have achieved worldwide success such as the Manhattan, Atlantis and Babylon city candlestick collections which won facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

the HFN 2010 Award of Excellence at Tabletop New York in 2010. The Queen of Sweden owns the Atlantis collection of candlesticks. I am also showing glasses which were ordered as a wedding gift for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie; the Purple Rain collection which I designed in 1994 and dedicated to Prince, and the Tango collection which the famous artists Gilbert and George use as their champagne glasses.Visitors will also be able to see the Clear Day and Rainy Day sculptures, Light and Cinderella which were part of the exhibition of Croatian sculpture in glass in the Mimara Museum in Zagreb in 2013. There will also be a small part of the Opa Art Made in Croatia collection which is currently taking shape in my atelier almost on a daily basis. I snap, break, smash, cut and damage glass objects in myriad ways and am creating using the fragments. Leading experts in contemporary art in glass selected works from the Afrika Babalawo and Iyalawo collections for the European Glass Context Curated exhibition in the Bornholm Art Museum in Denmark in September 2016. I’m proud that through my work Croatia will be taking part in that exhibition. I will have to recall the Afrika Babalawo and Iyalawo works from the exhibition in Zadar, but I’ll replace them with other works from the Afrika collection.

ZIYP: In Croatia can you study to be an artist working in glass? Are there other artists like you working in glass in Croatia?

Gordana: Zagreb has a Design Studies course. Of course there are artists working in glass in Croatia. Each has their own personal approach to glass and to art.

ZIYP: Is it possible to buy your collections somewhere?

Gordana: Anyone interested in my work can contact me via my website: www.gordana-drinkovic.com.

Summer 2016 23

Restaurants

Trattoria Canzona Archives

CROATIAN These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.

BISTRO GOURMET KALELARGA Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A

warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-diefor! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region.

For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.

QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@ arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. (84 - 134kn). P­i­A­G­B­X­W BRUSCHETTA The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, info@bruschetta.hr, www. bruschetta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn). P­J­ A­G­B­X­W DVA RIBARA A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@ restorani-zadar.hr, dvaribara.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(35 - 150kn). P­A­B­X GROPPO Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, convallis. doo@gmail.com, www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­i­J­A­6­B­S­W

24 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants KORNAT Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01, ipse2@zd.t-com.hr, www.restaurant-kornat.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 190kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W MALO MISTO The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, info@malo-misto. com, www.malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 170kn). P­A­G­B­X­W PET BUNARA This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad.

Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat!QD‑3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara.com, www. petbunara.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 160kn). P­A­ 6­G­B­S­W TRATTORIA CANZONA Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81, tomica.drazic@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

ITALIAN PAŠTA & SVAŠTA This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls.

As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, info@ pastasvasta.com, www.pastasvasta.com. Open 08:00 23:00. (35 - 120kn). P­i­J­A­6­G­B­X­W SALSA ROSSA Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+38523) 25 05 14, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar. hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

KONOBA Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

BISTRO PJAT Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediterranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best restaurant/ tavern in the city. With daily specials and an enticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

RAFAELO On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 90kn). P­A­L­G­B­X­S­W SKOBLAR Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36, skoblarj@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­J­A6­G­B­X­S­W Summer 2016 25

Restaurants STOMORICA Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC‑3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+38523) 31 59 46, konoba.stomorica@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). P­T­J­N­G­B­X­S­W Photo by Višnja Arambašić

ZADAR - JADERA A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 - 100kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

LAMB The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

ANITA If you’re heading back inland or for the Paklenica National Park by the old, non-highway route, look for the village Zaton Obrovački, about half an hour’s drive from Zadar.

Here they make tasty lamb and pork roasted on spit as well as fresh, homemade bread cooked under the iron bell (ispod peke). If you drop in, you won’t regret it.QZaton Obrovački, Posedarje, tel. (+385-23) 68 93 50/(+385-) 091 582 85 85. Open 07:00 - 22:00. L­N­B SABUNJAR Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.

Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 90kn). P­A­L­G­B­X­W

Niko Restaurant Archives

TAMARIS A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamariszadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­6­U­L­G­B­X­W

SEAFOOD FOŠA One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, info@fosa.hr, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00 - 01:00.

(95 - 650kn). P­J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W 26 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ISLANDS LUNGO MARE Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the centre, near the Sphinx.QJ‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +385-23) 23 09 75, jurezupan@yahoo.com, www. lungo-mare.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W NIKO Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko.hr.

Open 16:00 - 24:00. (90 - 170kn). P­A­6­L­G­S­W TAVERNA DIKLO A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s best to book in advance for prime positioning.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35, taverna1979@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 350kn). P­A­L­G­B­S­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

BOŠKINAC This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+38553) 66 35 00, info@boskinac.com, www.boskinac.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 190kn). P­­A­6­L­G­B­ X­W

KOŽINO PINETA Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar.

Last year the restaurant was redesigned to better accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile for their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and fish, Pineta has created family-friendly weekend menus at affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all manner of festivities. QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12, info@pineta. hr, www.pineta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 140kn).

P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

Summer 2016 27

Restaurants PETRČANE KRALJEVSKI VINOGRADI Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely specializes in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia — Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, info@kraljevski-vinogradi.hr, www. kraljevski-vinogradi.hr/en/. Open 13:00 - 24:00.

SUKOŠAN KALETA “Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocchi - order a day in advance.QTrg 10, Sukošan, tel. (+38523) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37, domagojpericic@ yahoo.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T­A­ U­L­E­G­B­S­W Photo by Višnja Arambašić

KOD GUSTE A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink).

QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03, augustin. devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kod-guste.com. Open 16:00 23:00. (65 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­W

VINJERAC KONOBA PECE We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 120kn). P­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W

PIZZA MAMMA MIA Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza 28 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, djuro07@yahoo.com, www.mammamia.fullbusiness. com/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 180kn). P­T­A­6­ U­G­B­X­S­W ŠIME A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48, info@restaurant-sime.com, www. restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn).

P­6­L­N­G­B­X­S­W TRI BUNARA This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90, tri.bunara@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. (37 - 72kn). P­i­ T­J­6­N­G­B­X­S­W

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BUDGET OBELIX Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town.

Rich and healthy breakfast added to menu recently.

QG‑2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Open 08:00 - 01:30. (8 60kn). G­B­X­W

BREAKFAST CROCCANTE When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a topnotch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests.QC‑3, Široka ulica 14. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).

FORUM Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, focaccia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC‑3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (10 40kn). P­N

Summer 2016 29

Local Flavour

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty.

Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was. In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home.

However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities.

Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

30 Zadar In Your Pocket

The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious.

Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta.

What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes.

On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol - bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.

Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.

Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long.

You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

FOOD MARKET CITY MARKET (PIJACA) In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.QC‑2, Pod Bedemom bb. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

LOCAL DISHES KAŠTRADINA Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands.

Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine MARASCHINO LIQUEUR Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basket-wrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

SALT FISH In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays. If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

SAMPHIRE At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

Summer 2016 31

Local Flavour THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 01.07 FRIDAY EXHIBITION OF PAG SHEEP AND CHEESES At this exhibition evaluate the quality of the cheeses from the island Pag and meet the sheep responsible for these renowned cheeses.QKolan, Pag Island.

09.07 SATURDAY A FEAST OF MUSSELS IN NOVIGRAD Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle.

Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These days, aany connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat. QNovigrad.

09.07 SATURDAY THE SNAIL’S TRAIL FESTIVAL OF GASTRONOMY AND THE CROATIAN SNAIL RACING CHAMPIONSHIPS Snails are considered a delicacy in much of Dalmatia, and the pristine environment of the Zadar hinterland is a perfect place for these groovy gastropods to grow. Snails in the Benkovac region are cooked over an open fire and served sprinkled with oil, vinegar and salt.QTrg Domovinske zahvalnosti, Benkovac, www.tz-benkovac.hr.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

16.07 SATURDAY - 17.07 SUNDAY ŠOKOLIJADA For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!QVišeslaov trg, Nin, www.nin.hr.

30.07 SATURDAY PRISNAC FESTIVAL Contestants jostle for the title of the best prisnac cake, plus other local specialities. ​Prisnac is the nemesis of anyone trying to stick to a low-cholesterol diet. A voluptuous mix of soft cheese, eggs, cream and a little sugar is enveloped in a bread base to create a golden, gently sweetish cake. It has been prepared in the hinterland region around Benkovac for centuries.QŠetalište kneza Branimira, Benkovac, www.tzbenkovac.hr.

03.08 WEDNESDAY THE FESTIVAL OF SALT The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to those used today, processes and the panning of salt from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be seen.QNin Salt Works, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, www.solananin. hr/en/home.

26.08 FRIDAY - 27.08 SATURDAY ZADAR CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL Nothing better than a cold beer on a hot summer day or night, and if you’re in Zadar at the end of August, you’re invited to try some of the best Craft beers Croatia has to offer.

Over 12 micro-breweries present 30 types of beer for avid beer aficionados. It kicks off at 17:00 and evening entertainment will include live bands and DJs. Be a part of the beer revolution… QRiva.

08.09 THURSDAY - 09.09 FRIDAY FIG FESTIVAL To this very day, Zadar and the whole of Dalmatia is abundant in fig trees, nurtured as a part of life. And in its honour, the Fig Festival, which is held in September at the Pet bunara Square.

Chef Mario Arbanas in Pet bunara restaurant prepares many specialties made of figs and visitors can sample a variety of dishes prepared in combination with this dazzling fruit.

Throughout the festival, one can learn more about the fig, from its processing to its gastro segment, as well as from its agrarian to its artistic side. By the end of this, you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same light again!QTrg pet bunara, tel. (+385-) 098 955 06 42. J

32 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour WINE The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years.

The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand.

Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and highquality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.

Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s awardwinning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended).

Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

BECOME A WINE CONNOISSEUR Who better but a qualified sommelier Jelena to give you tip top tips when it comes to wine.

G&J Tvoja krv i moja, Svaguša, Nadin Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Wine that is certainly recommended, intense in flavour bearing an aroma of plum and red berries. It is full-bodied, maintaining beautiful mature tannins thus filling the palette with fruit and fullness. This well-balanced, complex and powerful wine seeks accompanying foods such as venison, lamb grilled, steak ...

Korlat Cabernet Sauvignon, Benkovac - Stankovci Less than 20 kilometres from Zadar is the Korlat Vineyards that produces excellent wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is a very powerful complex wine, with a deep and intense ruby r​​ ed colour and purple reflection.

The scent on the nose is rich in berries; dominated by blueberries, currants and black plum. The taste is quite lush with a long finish and ripe tannins. The impact of the barrel is very nicely integrated into the wine. This is a wine that nicely complements venison, beef, and aged cheese dishes.

Vina Punta Skala, Kraljevski vinogradi, Zadar Pošip is a wine that densely moves in the glass and expresses its fullness through the originality of this great grape variety. The scent of herbs along with fruits such as apricots and figs can be felt. When poured, it seems almost oily and leaves a creamy trail on the pallet. Pošip is excellent with chicken, duck, fish and other lighter meals in general.

Summer 2016 33

Coffee & Cakes CAKES ART KALELARGA From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing asparagus cake.QC‑3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotelkalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­A­G­B­X­W DANICA A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes and pastries from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www. restorani-zadar.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B EVA IL GELATO ORIGINALE The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat the heat wave and choose your flave! Also at Ulica plemića Borelli 7 (C-3).QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 19 09. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B­X­W IVA Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC‑3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

P­N­G­B­W

COFFEE BACK DOOR Small and full of charm with a pleasant interior and excellent service. Great to simply chill from the hot sun and enjoy some jazz and funk tunes by night.QN‑5, Polačišće 9, tel. (+385-) 098 57 97 34. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

BEACH & COCKTAIL BAR BAMBOO Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, bamboozadar@gmail.com, www.restorani-zadar.hr.

Open 07:00 - 01:00. T­6­N­G­B­X­W BRANIMIR A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk.QD‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-23) 30 56 84, branimircaffe@ thcatering.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. P­A­G­B­X­W 34 Zadar In Your Pocket

CALLEGRO The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.

We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro. com. Open 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. P­N­G­ B­X­W FAMOUS BAR ‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub and restaurant, all in one. It sits along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.

QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, famous@adria-bars.hr, www.famous.adriabars.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W FORUM A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, forumcaffe@thcatering.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

P­T­A­G­B­X­W GALERIJA ROYAL A cool clean interior with artworks, and a delightful little courtyard terrace. In a passage near St Dominic’s. They serve breakfast and small bites.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385) 098 62 67 55. Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­X­W GUAM Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 46. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­N­ B­X­W ILLY CONCEPT BAR New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere.

Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. Open 07:00 23:00. Closed Sun. P­T­B­X­W LOVRE The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­6­N­G­B­X­W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife COCKTAIL BARS MANGO DAY & NIGHT CLUB This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69, caffebarla@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­6­L­ N­B­X­W

HANGIN’ OUT ARKADA A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21 13 68. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. B­W

Sonus Festival Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG

On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people.

While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

If you’re looking for larger crowds - of the clubbing type - attend one of the festivals in the surrounding area, Zrće Beach especially that offer plenty of different musical genres and opportunities to hang out with locals and tourists alike.

CLUBS

ARSENAL Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and exhibitions.QB‑2, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+38523) 25 38 33/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar. com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized con‑ certs and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. P­T­J­E­N­B­K­W BACKSTAGE BAR Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about!

Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 098 950 87 95, creativejdoo@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W BORGO A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry.

QD‑3, Varoška 2, biserkaborgo@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W

KOCKA BAR Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay with a beautiful view of Stari Grad. Whether you’re a fan of funk, rock or pop music, you will love this place with live bands and DJs hosting weekend nights.QC‑1, Obala kneza Bra‑ nimira 64, tel. (+385-23) 31 36 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. P­N­B­X­W

BRAZIL Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-o-meter.QD‑4, Obala kralja Pe‑ tra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-) 091 208 55 61. Open 08:00 - 01:00. N­G­B­X­W

PODROOM Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and place for party goers who wish to live and let live! Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QM‑5, Mar‑ ka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 099 749 84 51, podroomzd@ gmail.com, podroom.club. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00.

P­J­A­E­G­W

CAFE GALLERY GINA Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2, dario.longin@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P­J­A­6­G­B­ X­W

36 Zadar In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

DOLCE VITA Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC‑4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana30455@gmail.com. Open 18:30 01:30. P­J ­6 ­N­B ­X ­W KULT Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) 092 340 60 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00.

P­J ­A ­6­B ­X ­W LA BODEGA ZADAR Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.

QC‑3, Kalelarga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, rezervacije@labodega.hr, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W LLOYD One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB‑3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N ­G­ B­X ­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Q BAR A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB‑2, Liburn‑ ska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00. P­T­N­G­B­X­W RIO BAR Walking distance from the town’s famous Sea Organ, this is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. The newly refurbished ‘Rio Bar’ is truly unique as its main focus is on the 70s era; the sounds of funk, soul and disco echo inside its walls both on weekdays and weekends. The bar’s slogan; ‘Where the funky generation meets’ probably describes it well since it has been a popular meeting place since the late 1980s. So come and feel funky any time!QD‑4, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 73 60, simeraspovic@yahoo.com.

Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­N­ G­B­X­W TEATRO BAR A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with a glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with famous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be or not to be’, this is the place to be…QRuđera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69, caffebarla@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 01:30. P­N­B­X­W Summer 2016 37

Nightlife THE FACTORY BAR It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing.QD‑3, Rušera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 097 730 26 62, factorybar.hr@gmail.com. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. P­A­B­X­W VINYL BAR With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till the late hours.QB‑1, Obala Kneza Trpi‑ mira 4, tel. (+385-) 091 321 08 80. Open 07:00 - 01:30.

P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W YACHTING BAR A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish.

It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts, and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91, ​marconizd@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. P­N­B­X­W Fresh Island Festival Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG

LOUNGE BARS LEDANA LOUNGE BAR Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96/(+385-) 098 63 07 60, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­A­6­B­X­W THE GARDEN Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@ thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.

Open 10:30 - 01:30. J­A­6­U­B­X­W

OUT OF TOWN AQUARIUS If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, homemade ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, No‑ valja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. Open 00:00 - 24:00. A­6­L­B­K­C­W PAPAYA Another popular outfit from Zagreb brings you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles.

QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98/(+385-) 091 561 51 03, info@papaya.com. hr, www.papaya.com.hr. Open 16:00 - 20:00, 23:00 06:00. A­B­X­C­W SATURNUS A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.

Open Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. P­L­N­G­B­X­W

38 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

ESSENTIAL ZADAR CITY FORUM (FORUM) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood.

The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3.

CITY GATES (GRADSKA VRATA) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them.

The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2.

CITY LODGE (GRADSKA LOŽA) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.

With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.

QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Ad‑ mission 10 - 20kn. J CITY SENTINEL (GRADSKA STRAŽA) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admis‑ sion 10-20kn.

CITY WALLS (GRADSKI BEDEMI) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that Summer 2016 39

Sightseeing doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.

ST ANASTASIA’S CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA SV. STOŠIJE) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.

Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.

QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J

it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside

BARKAJOLI Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians are a hardy lot.

Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Tim Ertl

40 Zadar In Your Pocket

ST DONATUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DONATA) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop.

Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Jun/Sep open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J THE RIVA “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.

When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.

As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing CHURCHES CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF HEALTH (CRKVA GOSPE OD “KAŠTELA” (ZDRAVJA)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.

CHURCH OF ST MARY “DE PUSTERLA” STOMORICA (CRKVA SV. MARIJE “DE PUSTERLA” STOMORICA) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

ST ANDREW’S AND ST PETER THE ELDER’S (CRKVA SV. PETRA STAROG I SV. ANDRIJE) On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries.

Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.QC‑2, Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 10.

ST CHRYSOGONUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. KRŠEVANA) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

ST DOMINIC’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DOMINIKA) This former church building has had an interesting past.

Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 13. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ST ELIAS’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ILIJE) The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.QB‑3.

ST FRANCIS’S CHURCH & FRANCISCAN MONASTERY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I CRKVA SV. FRANJE ASIŠKOG) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MIHOVILA) On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 4.

ST SIMEON’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ŠIMUNA) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

LANDMARKS FIVE WELLS SQUARE (TRG 5 BUNARA) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish Summer 2016 41

Sightseeing threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara.

GREETING TO THE SUN Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.

STATUE OF PETAR ZORANIĆ On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time - a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

STATUE OF ŠPIRO BRUSINA The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.

THE CAPTAIN’S TOWER (KAPETANOVA KULA) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara.

THE CITY CEMETERY, HERITAGE MONUMENT (GRADSKO GROBLJE) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR‑3.

THE PETAR ZORANIĆ SQUARE Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.QD‑3.

42 Zadar In Your Pocket

THE SEA ORGAN (MORSKE ORGULJE) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. . Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

MUSEUMS ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.

Archeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition.QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, mbrkic@amzd.hr, www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30kn. J GALLERY OF ARTS (GALERIJA UMJETNINA) A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, Wed 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Open every 1st Saturday in month 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 20kn. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, zadar@muzejiluzija.hr, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.com.

Open 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 40 - 150kn.

NATIONAL MUSEUM (NARODNI MUZEJ ZADAR) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History, Ethnography, or the Art Gallery with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge hosts a number of current exhibitions also, while the 13th century Rector’s palace is home to the ‘Cages’ exhibit as well as a maritime collection. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, nmz. hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admis‑ sion 10 - 20kn. J THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS (MUZEJ ANTIČKOG STAKLA) It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.

Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

PALACES DEPUTY’S PALACE (PROVIDUROVA PALAČA) Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Admission 20kn. J NASSIS AND PATRIZIO PALACES (PALAČE NASSIS I PETRIZIO) Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C ‑3.

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PALACE GRISOGONO - VOVO (PALAČA GRISOGONO - VOVO) Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.QD‑3.

RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEVA PALAČA) Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića.

PARKS QUEEN JELENA MADIJEVKA PARK (PERIVOJ KRALJICE JELENE-MADIJEVKA) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square.

Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3.

VLADIMIR NAZOR PARK (PERIVOJ VLADIMIRA NAZORA) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them.

He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him - against his wishes.QE‑3.

RELIGIOUS COLLECTION CHURCH COLLECTIONS FROM THE CHURCH OF ST ELIJAH THE PROPHET A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an etching technique.QB‑3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 10 14. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Admission 10kn.

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Sightseeing SILVER AND GOLD OF THE CITY OF ZADAR (ZLATO I SREBRO ZADRA) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread.

The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric Zadar Tourist Board Archives

surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 25kn.

SILVER CASKET OF ST SIMEON (SREBRNA RAKA SV. ŠIME) In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history.

Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:30, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open May - October 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

THE MONASTERY MUSEUM OF ST. MIHOVIL’S, FRANCISCANS OF THE THIRD ORDER (MUZEJ SAMOSTANA SV. MIHOVILA, FRANJEVACA TREĆOREDACA) There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

THE SACRED ART COLLECTION OF ST FRANCIS’ MONASTERY (RIZNICA SAMOSTANA SV. FRANE) The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more.QA/B‑3, Trg sv. Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, svetifrane.org. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 5 - 15kn.

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Paths of Salt

Solana Nin Archives

As Croatia is positioned along the Adriatic Coast, it has developed and maintained a significant role in the production of salt for centuries on end, and when you take into consideration that man first discovered salt 10,000 BCE, this natural mineral has become part and parcel of life, has fed and nurtured civilisations, and will continue to do so.

Looking back, salt has always been deeply rooted in human culture: Roman soldiers received salt as a reward; Egyptians used salt for mummification; the Greeks often exchanged slaves for salt and used it in certain rituals, whilst the Japanese would sprinkle salt around the house to drive away evil spirits. Salt became a treasured and highly sought after ingredient, it brought colonial power; it led to wars and was one of the first sources of trade particularly throughout the Middle Ages where it was deemed ‘as precious as gold’.

So what is salt? Why is it so valuable? And how can we use it?

Firstly, salt is a natural mineral made up of white cube-shaped crystals primarily composed of two elements, sodium and chloride. It is translucent, colourless, and has a distinctive and characteristic taste.

The majority of people think of salt as simply a white granular food seasoning. In fact, only 6% of all salt manufacturing goes into food. It is said that we use salt in more than 14,000 different ways from the making of products as varied as plastic, paper, glass, aluminium, and rubber, to household bleach, soaps, detergents, and dyes. We use salt for medicinal purposes, for preserving food, cleaning and polishing, gardening, skin treatment, personal care, hygiene, and more!

Salt is essential for human life and the body cannot produce neither sodium nor chloride itself, so we need to add a pinch of salt into our daily diets. It helps maintain chemical balance in our muscles and nervous system and it is said that 5 to 6 grams of salt per day, for an average adult, goes a long way.

Historically, in terms of salt in Croatia, the oldest known document comes from the year 542 CE and is linked to the former Brijuni Saltworks. The Pag Saltworks were mentioned in the 9th century and the year 1018 CE saw the beginning of a long struggle between the Croatian town of Zadar, and Venetians who took much of Dalmatia under their control, and singlehandedly decided on the fate of Croatian Saltpans.

Foreign rule often meant survival with trade an essential element. Towns either flourished or perished; the latter due to lack of produce causing unemployment, migration, and economic instability as is witnessed in this day and age. Put simply, where facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

there is salt there is work, there is life, and there is survival. And to survive people need to earn money, a salary; and the word ‘salary’happens to derive from the word‘salt’. Nowadays, some of Croatia’s best saltworks are the bread and butter of a town, where almost every family has a type of affiliation to the company, some of which go back generations. Stories are told and traditions are kept. At present, a combination of old salt production methods are still used and combined with modern technology.

And now there is tourism where saltworks are an attraction, a sight to see and interest is aplenty. Some of Croatia’s exemplary ‘solanas’ include…

Solana Nin has shared a turbulent history; from Roman emperors who would use salt from Nin at feasts in juxtaposition to the Venetians who shut down the Solana as it was competition to their rival salt pans. Today, a Roman gate still stands as testimony to the age of the salt pans and it is positive to note that salt production is in full swing these days; 55 hectares is used and is positioned between five Croatian national parks, indicating the Eco Certified purity and unspoiled natural surroundings of the area. The Solana also has a historical Museum and souvenir shop where you can buy the highly sought ‘Salt Flower’.

Solana Ston dates back to Roman times, 2000 BCE. Its geographical position and fertile fields have always been abundant in water and salt, and when under the rule of the Dubrovnik Republic, its leadership built monumental walls in the 14th and 15th centuries to safeguard the cities of Ston and Mali Ston.

This entire area known as the ‘Pelješac peninsula’ was rebuilt and protected from possible attacks in order to preserve the maximum value of its salt pans which brought so much wealth to the Republic’s economy.

Solana Pag dates as far back as 999 CE and produces two thirds of Croatia’s total salt production. The shallow waters of the closed Pag Bay brings perfect conditions for salt production, allowing sea salt to be drained into small clay saltpans that set the landscape of the bay today. The Solana has a permanent exhibition portraying the process of salt production (past and present), ancient tools, a salt mill, transport, and film projections.

It is clear that nature has blessed the Adriatic Coast with so much beauty, and these days guided tours are on offer which bring to life the entire process of salt production, the history of each seaside town, the tools and methods used, and the utter importance of maintaining life in such rural areas. Voluntary work is possible where one can get a true feel for life on the salt pans; as well as museums and galleries, souvenir shops, interactive presentations, summer camps and more. We recommend you create some memories, with a pinch of salt to help spice up your stay!

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Zadar Surroundings

Nin Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Boris Kačan

NORTH OF ZADAR Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

NIN The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

48 Zadar In Your Pocket

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.

A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.

What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

NIN TOURIST BOARD QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, info@nin.hr, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

THE NIN SALT WORKS MUSEUM AND SHOP Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).

QIlirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26 40 21, prodaja@solananin.hr, www.solananin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35 - 65kn. A zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings NOVIGRAD Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.

Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.

Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.

During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.

The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.

Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

ZATON This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders. The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built

by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids.

The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and

AGRITOURISM ROCA - KUĆA DALMATINSKOG PRŠUTA Tourism with a very natural touch! Welcome to this farm which is family run and has a primary focus on breeding pork meat (Yorkshire, Landrasse…) The entire set-up maintains the true spirit of an old stone village in the Dalmatian hinterland where guests can enjoy local products and authentic dishes in their tavern. Best to book but casual passers-by will always be welcomed.QStankovci, tel. (+385) 091 583 40 43, info@kuca-dalmatinskog-prsuta.hr, www.kucadalmatinskog-prsuta.hr/. Open 13:00 - 23:30. (70 400kn). 6­N

Summer 2016 49

Zadar Surroundings ASSERIA At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The town was inhabited from the Bronze Age right up until the late Roman period - a time span of at least a millennium.

Asseria’s blossoming as a town took place during the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, when it was one of the main settlements of the Liburnians. The oldest remains in Asseria which have been found to date are from the 5th century BC, and show us a town with walls 7m high and 3.2m thick, built as part of the military belt protecting the rich cultural life on the coast from barbarian invasion from inland. Built on the proscribed lines of a Roman city, Asseria had a town square, a water system, public baths and a necropolis where cylindrical gravestones known as “cipus” have been discovered. The most important Roman monument is a triumphal arch, one of seven entrances into the city, built in 113 AD in honour of Roman Emperor Trajan.

Annual archaeological digs at Asseria are revealing more and more fascinating layers of history beneath.

Ceramics from the Greek period that predated the Roman settlement here have been unearthed, and also from the age of the Liburnians before them. As you’ll know if you’ve visited the Archaeological Museum in Zadar or Nin, such relics of one of the oldest European civilisations are not only awe-inspiring due to their age, but also because of their simple beauty. Visiting Asseria is a chance not only to see more of these, but also to experience the scale of such an old settlement in its entirety.

The Church of St Martin near Benkovac yielded a few surprises some years ago, when an old storeroom was opened up and found to contain more than 2000 silver pieces from the treasury of King Koloman (or Kalman) of Hungary, part of the riches he used to finance his quest for the Croatian crown. (His quest was successful - as part of a treaty, he was crowned King of Croatia in 1102 in Biograd, the first time in history that the Kingdoms of Croatia and Hungary were joined).

The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters instagram.com/ with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to croatiaiyp that unforgettable dream getaway.

50 Zadar In Your Pocket

ZATON HOLIDAY RESORT QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.

ZATON TOURIST BOARD QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 21:00.

SOUTH OF ZADAR South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake in its present lively and romantic Riviera.

BIOGRAD NA MORU The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty.

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside. Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzejbiograd.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children.

Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant.

It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast. Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

BIOGRAD N/M TOURIST BOARD Information on activities, trips and maps of the area.QTrg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr.

Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

VRANSKO JEZERO NATURE PARK QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, info@pp-vransko-jezero.hr, www.vransko-jezero. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The sched‑ uled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its sur‑ roundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 20:00 which in‑ cludes weekends. Entrance 10 - 20kn.

ISLANDS Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings DUGI OTOK

Photo by Aleksandar Gospić

Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava.

The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers.

Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.

Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep).

Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

DUGI OTOK TOURIST BOARD QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tzsali@zd.t-com.hr, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Biograd N/M Tourist Board Archives Starigrad Tourist Board Archives

TELAŠĆICA NATURE PARK QSali IV 2, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are avail‑ able and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 1400kn depending on the size of the boat.

IŽ This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, lowlying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage.

In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are 52 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart.

If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

ZADAR TOURIST BOARD OFFICE QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

IST & MOLAT Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.

It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks. Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

BIKING Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring.

One of the oldest cycling route is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly welldeveloped tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sightseeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. For more info call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, www.zadar.hr.

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Zadar Surroundings PAŠMAN You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

PAŠMAN TOURIST BOARD QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www. pasman.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 11:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.

TKON TOURIST BOARD QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, info@tzo-tkon. hr, www.tzo-tkon.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00.

PAG Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content.

The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing 54 Zadar In Your Pocket

better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice.

The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagooncalm sea.

PAG TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tic@tzgpag. hr, www.tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

SILBA, OLIB & PREMUDA These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmoszadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

Sukošan - Photo by Boris Kačan

phere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century.

Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

SILBA TOURIST BOARD QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, info@tzsilba.hr, www. tzsilba.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

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UGLJAN That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy.

The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

KUKLJICA TOURIST BOARD QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, info@kukljica. hr, www.kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

PREKO TOURIST BOARD QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Leisure Zadar is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of peddling, climbing, sailing, diving...

ADRENALIN SPORTS These are packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock climbing, wind surfing,…)

BORA TOURS In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, info@boratours.hr, www.boratours.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. N IZAZOV TOURS Bungee jumping - heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for life-long memories. The lads on the Maslenica Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.

QMaslenica Bridge, tel. (+385) 098 53 22 53, info@ izazov-tours.hr, www.izazov-tours.hr. Open by prior ar‑ rangement. July - August 31 Open 14:00 - 20:00.

SURFMANIA CENTRE Want a taste of adrenaline? Then head to the Ždrijac Beach, next to Nin. There you’ll find a school for kitesurfing and windsurfing, and you can even rent these along stand up paddle boards. Drop in and be prepared to be bloooooown away!QŽdrijac Beach, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.surfmania.hr. Open 12:00 - 18:00, depending on weather conditions.

DIVING ALBAMARIS QIvane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, info@albamaris.hr, www. albamaris.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. N SCUBA ADRIATIC QM‑3, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N ZADAR SUB QN‑2, Dubrovačka 38, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. N ZLATNA LUKA QMarina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

EXCURSIONS These agencies offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit your needs (Kornati excursion, Plitvice…)

AQUARIUS Plitvice, Krka, Kornati trips.QD‑2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29 19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www. aquariuszadar.com. Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 24:00. A TERRA SAILING TRIPS Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the amount of available packages on offer.QG‑3, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, info@sailingcroatia. hr, www.sailingcroatia.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

VAL TOURS Excursions, tours, transfers, active holidays, accommodations...QTrg hrvatskih velikana 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-tours.hr, www.val-tours.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

CEROVAC CAVES (CEROVAČKE ŠPILJE, VELEBIT NATURE PARK) Declared as a geo-morphological natural monument, the Cerovac Caves are one of the most famous caves in Croatia.

The entire complex consists of three caves (Upper, Lower and Central) which run approx. 7km in length. Also, they are one of the largest cave bear findings in Croatia which explains the given names such as the Bear Trench and Bear Hall.Qtel. (+385-) 099 814 47 24, velebit@pp-velebit.hr, www.pp-velebit.hr. Guided visits and prices depend on the time of year, so please visit www.pp-velebit.hr.

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Leisure PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers.

One of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures, information and advice.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@paklenica.hr, www.paklenica. hr. Open 06:30 - 20:30. 30 - 150kn.

FAMILY FUN Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayaking…)

ADVENTURE PARK ZADAR Adventure and fun for everyone with paintball, zipline and kids’ playground.QKožinska cesta 108, Kožino, tel. (+385-) 098 85 44 31, danijel@adventure.hr, www. adventure-park.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. N KONJIČKI CENTAR LIBERTAS Located within the Zaton Resort, trail riding is offered which is customised to the varying degrees of knowledge and skills of participants. The littlies are never forgotten with pony rides available too. Take the amazing Zaton ‘beach tour’ on horseback. Do note, for those who are not staying at the resort but wish to go horseriding, you will need to pay a 150kn entry fee to enter the resort itself and when you get to the Libertas Horse Centre, you will receive a refund voucher where you will get your money back at the resort entry.QZaton Holi‑ day Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@ horse-center-libertas.hr, www.horse-center-libertas. hr. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

KONJIČKI KLUB MAXIMUS There is no horsing around here; it’s all first class recreational riding. Novices are welcomed as they offer riding school training, trail riding, hiking on horseback, and riding for children at Bili Brig. Saddle up and giddy up!QN‑1, Ante Rudana 63, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-) 095 522 25 12. Open by prior arrangement.

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SOLARIS AQUAPARK Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, Šibenik, www.solaris.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00.

VELEBIT PHOTO SAFARI Adventure on four wheels with this jeep trip through the Velebit Mountains and the canyon of the Zrmanja River.

It’s an all day trip which lasts for 8 hours with plenty of stop offs for photos and taking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. Food and drinks are included in the package but you need to book exclusively via telephone.Qtel. (+385) 098 27 28 78, rajna-paklenica@inet.hr, www. hotel-rajna.com/velebit.html.

BEACHES If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good facilities including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east.

Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas.

If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Zadar Surroundings have their own little pieces of heaven.

Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Guliver Archives

AFFORDABLE ART Great and affordable artwork with prices ranging from 5 to 150 euros.

3D PRINT BUST OF HERCULES It is believed that whilst under Roman rule, Hercules was most likely patron to the city of Zadar. The Archaeological Museum souvenir shop (Trg opatice Čike 1) honours the past and has a 3D bust of the almighty hero with a Nemean Lion knotted around his neck. His heroic deeds haven’t been forgotten with this authentic souvenir or furniture item.

WINE GLASSES FROM THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS If you fancy a drop of wine then it needs to be served in a fine wine glass, and that you can get at the museum souvenir shop (Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1) where you can find beautiful, unique wine glasses made purely through the free glass blowing technique or blowing into a mould. Broken or recycled glass is reused through their production process and comes out 100% pure glass.

ART GALLERIES

PAINTINGS BY SILVIJANA DRAŽOVIĆ Being a local artist, Dražović is known for her distinctive artwork of bright and cheerful colors that can cheer up any person or empty space. Many of her motives are to do with the sea and other thematic topics. Take a sneak peak of her finest works at the Bambola Gallery (Ul.plemića Borelli 7).

ANIMA Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC‑3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, zoran. debelic1@zd.t-com.hr, www.anima.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

THE CHEST OF ST. SIMEON One of the most valuable works of medieval art in Croatia is the Chest of St. Simeon which was built in 1380; it stands in the sanctuary of the city church named after him and carries his remains. He is the city’s beloved patron saint, much loved by its townsfolk. The Laudato Gallery produces and sells original copies of the chest as a symbol and souvenir of Zadar by using poured terracotta. Don Ive Prodana 11 is the address of the Gallery.

BAMBOLA Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes.QC‑3, Ul. plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

THE GOLD AND SILVER OF ZADAR MONOGRAPH The souvenir shop in the Benedictine monastery (Trg opatice Čike 1) contains a monograph of the treasury art of its very own permanent exhibition of Church artworks better known as‘The Gold and Silver of Zadar’. It presents pictures and descriptions of all 250 items of this beautiful and rich collection of religious objects made between the 8th and 18th centuries. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

BUŽA As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N LAUDATO Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, prodaja.zd@laudato.hr, www.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Summer 2016 59

Shopping ers of wine, or connoisseurs of the fine drop will find Atrox vina heaven on earth.QD‑1, J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 54 26, info@atrox-zadar.hr, www.atrox-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A BIBICH A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A CROLICIOUS A goodie foodie gastro store with Croatian and local products particularly from Dalmatia. Delicacies also include fine wines, homemade cosmetics and much more, all of which make for a good and tasty souvenir.QC‑3, Vladi‑ mira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-) 091 358 17 71. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 23:00. A

Archaeological Museum Archives

MADE IN CROATIA BOROVO Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. GALEB Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally known for conventional and classical underwear. Today, the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger audience following the latest trends in design. Another range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club, with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, galeb@galeb. hr, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A GULIVER High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 04 45, webshop@guliver. hr, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

DELICATESSEN SHOP ATROX VINA A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines from all regions, as well as sparkling wines and champagnes! The company occasionally organises the promotion of local wines in collaboration with local hotels or restaurants. So deep think60 Zadar In Your Pocket

DELIKATESE LUKIN Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat!QC‑2, Pod be‑ demom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. J­A GLIGORA Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheese.Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel.

70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.

QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, info@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A MARASKA Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3, tel. (+385-) 099 755 91 61, www.maraska.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. OLVIN A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.QN‑5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.

Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N PUNTICA Authentic prosciutto, bacon and other traditional meat products that are produced and sold from their very own production facility. In addition, they also offer cheese, wine, olive oil, salted anchovies, and other delicacies from local producers.

It’s a Dalmatian sensation!QL‑4, J.J.Strossmayera 15, tel. (+385-) 091 413 72 14, slavko.coza@zd.t-com.hr, www. dalmatinski-prsut.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A zadar.inyourpocket.com

Shopping |croatian

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

BOROVO STORE IN ZADAR Široka ulica BB

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

MUSEUM ARTWORK

SOUVENIRS

ANCIENT GLASS MUSEUM’S SHOP Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, info@mas-zadar.hr, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 21:00. A

ANDREAART A small gift shop where you can find local ceramics, handbags, jewellery, paintings, lamps and other one of a kind home décor! Best of all, it’s 100% local in design and handmade of course. Andreaart has authentic written all over it!QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 5, tel. (+385-23) 64 62 48. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Sun closed. From July Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, amzd.hr/ en/. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00. N

ŠKATULICA Another small store, which in translation means ‘a little box’, offers original Croatian souvenirs from magnets, stones, purses, ornaments and jewellery with the use of different techniques and very importantly once again, handmade.QC‑3, Stomorica 14. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. N

THE ZADAR NATIONAL MUSEUM SHOP Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum’s artefacts.QC‑3, Narodni trg, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www. nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. J­N

CITY GALLERIA QN‑5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, info@ citygalleria.hr, www.citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. P

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

SHOPPING CENTRES

SUPERNOVA CENTAR ZADAR QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. supernova.hr/zadar/. Open 09:00 - 22:00. W Summer 2016 61

Hotels Since Zadar is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, hostels and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 STARS IADERA QResort Punta Skala, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 01, iadera@falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com/ en/hotel/iadera. doubles €180 - 360. P­H­A­U­F­ L­G­B­K­D­C­W

4 STARS ART HOTEL KALELARGA QC‑3, Ulica Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. doubles 975 - 1640kn.

P­Z­A­R­6­U­G­B­K­W

KOLOVARE QN‑6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00, fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. doubles 830 - 1360kn. P­i­ J­H­A­R­U­G­B­K­C­W

3 STARS DONAT QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, donat@falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. doubles €47 - 74. P­T­H­ A­L­E­G­B­K­X­C­W HOTEL MARINKO QG‑4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 091 429 99 09, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. triples €60 - 80. P­A­L­ B­K­W MEDITERAN QG‑2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@mediteran.hr, www. hotelmediteran-zd.hr. doubles 520 - 850kn. P­A­L­ G­B­K­X­C­W

BASTION QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. doubles €219 - 250. P­Z­J­ H­A­R­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­­W

PORTO QR‑3, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www. hotel-porto.hr. 102 rooms (8 singles €54 - 56, 38 dou‑ bles €74 - 78, 51 triples €86 - 90, 5 apartments €98 102). P­­H­A­R­U­L­G­B­K­W

FALKENSTEINER CLUB FUNIMATION BORIK QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www.borik.falkensteiner.com. doubles €81 - 136. P­i­ T­H­A­U­F­L­E­G­B­K­D­C­W

VILLA HREŠĆ QI‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villahresc.hr. 9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 220). P­A­L­G­C­W

FALKENSTEINER HOTEL ADRIANA QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www. adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €172 - 302). P­H­A­F­L­E­G­B­K­D­X­C­­W

HOSTELS

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

BOUTIQUE HOSTEL FORUM QB‑3, Široka ulica 20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax (+385-23) 25 07 95, booking@hostelforumzadar.com, hostelforumzadar.com. 99 dorm beds, €18 - 65 per per‑ son. P­H­A­G­X­W DRUNKEN MONKEY HOSTEL QP‑6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@ gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. 30 dorm beds, 165 - 239kn per person. P­N­G­B­C­W ZADAR YOUTH HOSTEL QG‑5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www. zadarhostel.hfhs.hr. 251 dorm beds, 14.70 - 46.70€ per person. T­H­A­R­6­U­G­B­K­W

62 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Pozdrav Suncu Greeting to the Sun

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Boutique Hostel Forum

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Zanottija fra D. Fabijanića

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Crkva sv. Ilije St Elias’s Church

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BOLNICA HOSPITAL

SHOPPING

WI-FI

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE TOURIST INFORMATION

BUS ZA ZRAČNU LUKU BUS TO AIRPORT TRŽNICA, RIBARNICA MARKET, FISH MARKET

MARINA

POLICIJA POLICE

JEDNOSMJERNA ULICA ONE-WAY STREET

RESTORAN RESTAURANT

MUZEJ MUSEUM

HOTEL/HOSTEL

TAXI

NOĆNI KLUB NIGHT CLUB

AUTOBUSNA POSTAJA BUS STATION

PARKIRALIŠTE PARKING

JAVNI WC PUBLIC LAVATORY

LJEKARNA PHARMACY

BROD, KRUZER SHIP, CRUISER

TRAJEKT CAR FERRY

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Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Dinarska J-4 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4 Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3

Forum Foša Fra Donata Fabijanića Fra Šimuna Klimantovića Franje iz Milana Frederica Grisogona Grge Oštrića Grgura Mrganića Grigora Viteza Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića Ilije Smiljanića Istarska Obala Ivana Brkanovića Ivana Bršića Ivana Danila Ivana Mažuranića Ivana Meštrovića Jakše Čedomila-Čuke Jerolima Vidulića Josipa Jurja Strossmayera Jurja Barakovića Jurja Bijankinija

K-6/C-3 L-6/D,E-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2 J-4 K-6/B-3 L-3 L-6/C-2 L-5,6/D-3 J-5,6/A-3 L-4,5/C-1 K-5 K-6/A-3 K-4,5/B,C-1 K-3,4 K-5/B-3 K-6/B-3 L-4 L-5/D-2,3 K-6/B-3

Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1

Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4

Slavoljuba Penkale K-4K-4 Slavoljuba Penkale Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4K-4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale Sv.Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 TrgTrg opatice Čike B-3B-3 opatice Čike TrgTrg petpet bunara L-6/D-3 bunara L-6/D-3 TrgTrg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 TrgTrg sv.sv.

Frane K-6/A-3 Frane K-6/A-3 TrgTrg Krševana K-5/B,C-2 sv.sv.

Krševana K-5/B,C-2

TrgTrg sv.sv.

Stošije Stošije TrgTrg tri tri bunara bunara Ulica Borelli Ulica Borelli Varoška Varoška Vatroslava Lisinskog Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Velebitska Veslačka Veslačka Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vladimira Papafave Vladimira Papafave Voštarnica Voštarnica Vrata sv.sv.

Kršovana Vrata Kršovana Vrata sv.sv.

Roka Vrata Roka Zadarskog mira Zadarskog mira Zlatarska Zlatarska Zore dalmatinske Zore dalmatinske Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zrinsko-Frankopanska

www.inyourpocket.com

K-6/B-3 K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4J-4 K-6/A,B-3 K-6/A,B-3 L-4L-4 K-5K-5 K-5K-5 K-6K-6 L-5/C-2 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 L-6/C-3 M-5 M-5

Zadar Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Mladen Radolović