Zadar In Your Pocket No14

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Zadar Summer 2017

Croatian Inventors Great Minds from a Small Country

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Your Guide Through Best Summer Events

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

The Benkovac fair, donkey races...

5

The top getaways

A zesty editorial to unfold

What’s On A pick ‘n’ list to brighten your stay

Croatian Inventors 11 How they influenced the world

Restaurants

14

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Local Flavour

21

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes

25

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife 27 Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

Croatian Critters

4

30

Zadar Surroundings

39 42

Leisure 53 Treasure some leisure

Shopping 56 Priceless places and buys

Where to stay

59

Accommodation categories in Croatia

Arrival & Getting Around

60

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Zadar Basics

63

Keepn it real

Maps City Centre Map City Map/Street Register

64-65 66-67

Vransko jezero Nature Park Viewpoint, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

To discover Zadar surroundings check page 42.

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Foreword Honesty is the best policy and during the summer season, the city of Zadar, just like most other major coastal towns, does get overpopulated. Therefore, to avoid being cramped and people hearing the ‘oh no, we’re packed like sardines’ lingo, as well as the extreme heat, we suggest you follow our mini tips and recommendations because to put it simply, ‘we know,’ so do follow! Mornings are the best time to browse the city and fish markets, enjoy the scents and colours of local food from the surrounding areas and villages, and drink coffee with locals because it is at this time that many visitors are still fast asleep or elsewhere. If you are a true early bird, you still have the time to go for a swim in the clear sea as this can be done in the city itself right on the Riva. Seeing a museum or two is also a lovely way to spend your morning too. In terms of noon, this is best spent in the shade where possible and lunch can be eaten in any of the recommended restaurants from our IYP guide. The Rector’s Palace is a monumental and architectural masterpiece dating from the 13th-century worth visiting; it has influences from different periods with stone décor, a spacious inner courtyard, harmonious balconies and a colossal entry. Mali Arsenal is 15th century revamped fortress that teaches you about Zadar’s 3000 year history through multi-sensory new age games and exploration apps. When the sun goes down then getting out is what it’s all about, the parties and festivities are aplenty.

And depending on how many days you have available, island hopping and visiting national parks is the best way to destress and be totally impressed!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1334-9228 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zadar In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28, 779 12 29, croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Community Manager Tea Bikić Design Lovro Boljat Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Mladen Radolović, Pag lace, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Tea Bikić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Zadar (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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What’s On

Gangbé Brass Band, Zadar Croatian National Theatre Archives

Rock & Pop Concerts 22.07 » Massimo One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblences in voice.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, www.ledana.hr.

12.08 » Pet Shop Boys After the huge success of the first half of their World Super Tour, this iconic electronic pop duo return to Europe this summer and visit Zadar for the very first time.

The band which gained enormous success especially during the golden era of the 1980s perform a full listing of their biggest hits as well as songs from their current album named ‘Super’.QE‑2, Jazine, Obala kralja Tomislava 2, 220 - 350kn.

Exhibitions 05.05 - 10.08 » The City of the Dead Abow the Field of Life The exhibition will present the results of archaeological research from one of the world’s most important sites of the Iron Age - the necropolis of the Kopila settlement located on the island of Korčula. The site is of huge archaeological importance due to the historical and cultural interaction of the indigenous population with Greek and Roman colofacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

nisers. It’s history being revealed in front of you!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

10.02 - 31.12 » Permanent exhibition - Six Salon Stories (The historical ambience of the Zadar National Museum) With time comes change, with change comes a new time!

See the story of Zadar broken into six different historical periods. The exhibited artefacts are traces and segments which make up a historical mosaic of Zadar’s people across various centuries. The Rector’s Palace is a prime example of renewal as it was damaged during the 1990s Homeland War and with time rebuilt making it the perfect place to host the exhibition.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića, www.nmz.hr.

16.05 - 16.07 » Looking for Dalmatian Neanderthals Presenting for the very first time an overview of the Palaeolithic research conducted of Neanderthal life in Dalmatia through excavations at several sites where the Mousterian culture (the Middle Palaeolithic culture) is linked to the Neanderthals: Mujine pećine (Mujine Caves) at Kaštela, Velike pećine (The Great Caves) in the Kličevice canyon near Benkovac, the underwater Palaeolithic site in Resnik near Kaštel Štafilić, and the space between Ljubački Bay and Posedarje.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Zadar, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr.

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What’s On 15.06 - 15.09 » Marc Chagall - On the Other Side of the Colour The gorgeous and newly renovated 14th century Rector’s Palace becomes a temporary home for ninety prints as well as lithographs, brass and woodprints by this Russian-French artistic genius. It portrays the perfectionism, vision and dreamy art work of Eastern European Jewish folk culture and Chagall’s constant dialogue with the eternal. True craftsmanship!QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića, www.nmz.hr.

20.06 - 20.09 » Forvm Naronitanvm An archaeological dream where you can see finds from the ancient Roman town of Narona, near Metković. This exhibition takes you on a walk through history via a video projection and blueprint of the site itself plus photos taken during the excavations, drawings of the objects found, a 3D reconstruction of the architecture and movable archaeological finds dating from the 2nd century BC until the 9th century AD.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Za‑ dar, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr.

Joyce, Zadar Croatian National Theatre Archives

19.05 - 15.09 » Jeronim Tišljar - Broken Light Zagreb born glass design artist, Jeronim Tišljar has made an important contribution to Croatian culture by using the innovative use of glass in architecture, which in its modern form was almost completely unknown in Croatia. After studying at the prestigious Academy of Arts, Archiecture and Design in Prague and having working abroad, Tišljar is among the leading innovators of modern glassware in Croatia and Europe as a whole and you get to see his displayed works.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

What to expect at the end of summer? More interesting exhibitions…

18.08 - 19.10. »Old Techniques of Glass Painting Author Zvonka Požun QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

19.09 - 07.11. »Studio Valeria Authors Iskra Toner, Nina Dragan Belić and Mal‑ gorzata Chomicz .QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

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30.06 - 14.07 » Friends of the Sea - Games Having started in 2009, this photo exhibit highlights a series of 60 large-format photos by prominent Croatian photographers. The squares and shores of 13 Croatian cities display the ambience of this year’s theme ‘games at the sea’ with (diving, sailing, racing, swimming marathons, millennium jumps) and all the adrenaline they raise. Its media culture merged with sports, leisure and ecology along the serene Adriatic Sea.Qwww.prijateljimora.com. july - august » A Selection of artwork from the Zadar National Museum Art Gallery Collection Chronologically presented from the 19th until the 21st century along with influences from the modern Croatian art scene(1950’s-1980’s), see some of Croatia’s greatest painters including Vlaho Bukovac, Ignjat Job, Edo Murtić, Ivan Kožarić as well as numerous Zadar born artists. Selected works from the Photo Collection will be presented for the first time.QD‑3, Gallery of Fine Arts - Zadar National Museum, Medulićeva 2, www.nmz.hr.

July - september » Art of Fibre – Weaving Stories (donation of tapestry by Ivan and Anita Šokčević Tomljanović, permanent exhibition) The married couple Anita and Ivan Tomljanović donated thirty-two tapestries to the Zadar National Museum in 2015, works which were made from 1962 to 2001. The tapestries are showcased not only for their incredible and today almost forgotten and neglected skill in weaving, but also to promote this valuable artwork.

The tapestries were woven with woollen threads of natural shades inspired by Christian themes, the city of Zadar, nature and Mount Velebit.QB‑2, Department of Zadar City Museum, Poljana pape Aleksandra III, www.nmz. hr. zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Hideout Festival Archives

July - september » Inside the foundations of the city - From the archaeological layers of Liburnian Zadar Zadar has a 3000 year history and with current urban changes to city infrastructure, every stone excavated can lead to the unveiling of the city’s rich past. See selected archaeological research conducted over the last two decades with rare finds of preserved layers from the prehistoric period, Iron Age and especially the everyday life of Liburnian Zadar.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Zadar, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr.

01.07 - 01.08 » Adriatic Molluscs See what’s under the sea with various sea snails and shellfish that live in one of the most beautiful and cleanest seas in the world, the Adriatic Sea. The exhibits are presented via shells and photos taken under the sea and accompanied by a text that will guide the visitor to the history of malacology and coniology in Zadar and to the biology and ecology of marine molluscs.QD‑3, Natural History Department - Zadar National Museum, Medulićeva 2, www.nmz.hr.

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10.07 - 01.09 » The most poisonous snakes of the world See one of the biggest private collections of snakes in Europe, the exhibition showcases not only the most famous snakes such as the black and green mamba, the spitting cobra, Gabon viper, boa and python, but also large poisonous snakes – the six year old Royal Cobra called Elvis which is now nearly 4 meters long. And if you’re brave, you can hold the non-venomous snakes in your hands!QD‑3, City Lodge, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr.

11.08 - 11.09 » Multimedia Exhibition & Time Machine from the -9th until the + 21st century Up for some nocturnal artistic experience? Then look no further as the Archaeological Museum has an evening programme and the very special exhibition entitled Time Machine of -9 to +21 century.

Immerse yourself after hours with a unique time machine which takes you through the rich history of Zadar from the 9th century BC until the 21st century AD, all accompanied with special lighting effects and interesting content.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Zadar, Trg opatice Čike 1, www. amzd.hr. zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 11.08 - 11.09 » Multimedia exhibition Ancient Croatian Heritage in a New Light Historians will value this contemporary and multimedia exhibition presenting exceptionally valuable Croatian cultural heritage from long ago. A large number of preRomanesque and early-Roman monuments of exceptional value will be displayed to visitors during the touristy summer days.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.amzd.hr.

Festivals 26.06 - 30.06 » Hideout Festival The 7th edition of this electronic summer party is set to deliver over 100 headline acts and underground DJs that will perform across several open-air stages. The festival is located in Novalja and by the seaside with themed boat parties adding another dimension to revelers. A mixture of everything from house and techno to bass and grime will alarm the decibels. This year’s line-up includes Major Lazer Soundsystem, Marco Carola, Stormzy, Diplo, Jamie Jones and multitudes more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.hideoutfestival.com.

11.07 - 13.07 » Fresh Island Festival Greetings and welcome to one of Europe’s leading Hip-Hop and Urban music festivals which is set on the island of Pag. Mid July sees three mega clubs on Zrće beach transform with DJ’s, MC’s, boat and pool parties representing the absolute best in Hip-Hop, R&B and Grime. Hear the likes of Sean Paul, French Montana, Tim Westwood, Lady Leshurr and more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.freshisland.org.

28.07 - 29.07 » KalelargArt A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QC‑3, Kalelarga, Široka ulica.

12.08 » Festival of Sand The idyllic town of Nin is known for its soft beautiful sandy beaches which makes it home to this rather unique event. Two particular beaches (Kraljičina and Ždrijac) are ready for action and art in combo.

Sculptures of sand will be made by mentors and tourists of all ages alike, so get ready to shovel, carve, mix and mould in putting together your very own sandy creations.QŽdrijac and Kraljičina Beach, Nin, www.nin.hr.

20.08 - 24.08 » Sonus Festival The Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya Nightclubs open their doors to an international audience each year for the Sonus Festival. For five days and five nights party goers can hear the best in the electronic underground scene across the Zrće Beach. Featured artists include: Adam Beyer, Adriatique, Andrea Ljekaj, Andrologic, Apollonia, Chris Liebing, Dan Andrei, Dejan Milicevic, Monika Kruse, Ricardo Villalobos Sonja Moonear , Sven Väth, Tale Of Us and many more to come.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.sonus-festival.com/index_eng.html.

Special Events 13.04 - 01.10 » KineDok Everything but Hollywood is here to twinkle your soul as KineDok is a unique platform promoting creative and innovative documentary films watched at non-cinema venues. KineDok presents itself as a new kind of international film community with 16 documentaries screened, so as they say, ‘come and watch intriguing stories about people like you, with people like you.’QB‑3, ACME Club, N. Nikole Matafare 2a, www.kinedok.net/hr. 20:30 Every Thursday. june - september » Feštice Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda – white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.Q. Every Friday.

30.06 - 03.08 » the 23rd Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling perforPet Shop Boys

14.08 - 17.08 » Barrakud Never resting on their laurels, organisers have a special reason to go the extra mile this yearl. Their classic motto of ‘Are you all ready to rave the world again, continues? Hear the music of Fritz Kalkbrenner, Paul Kalkbrenner and more.

QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.barrakud.com. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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What’s On mances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Croatian Na‑ tional Theatre, Široka ulica 8, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

07.07 » Imperial Russian Ballet - Swan Lake Swan Lake is one of the most popular and famous ballets ever created; it’s a work that has become synonymous with classical ballet. Ensembles worldwide have altered, modified and even transformed this ballet since its premiere in 1877, but the very essence of this melodramatic love story always remains.QB‑3, City Forum, 120 - 400kn

The finale brings on stage the 10 member ‘Gangbé Brass Band’ which blend West African jùjú and traditional Vodou music with Western jazz and big-band sounds.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1.

29.07 » Millenium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect.

It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

13.07 - 10.08 » The 57th Musical Evenings in St Donatus If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Concerts starts at 21:00.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.donat-festival.com.

02.08 - 05.08 » Full Moon Festival On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking.

QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

26.07 - 28.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues Head to the Museum of Antiquity Glass for jazztastic music to delight your ears! This year’s triple line-up starts with Joyce Elaine Yuille, a groovy jazz based gospel and blues type singer hailing from New York. The second evening sees German gypsy artist Wawau Adler teaming up with our very own guitarist Damir Kukuruzović, both are avid fans of Django Reihnart and promote a fusion of Roma and American jazz.

14.07 - 11.08 » VAK’'AN'’ZA 31% - Sport & Music Festival Welcome to this Water-Polo Amateur Cup which brings this historical Olympic Sport to the people, this much sought after tournament is open to everyone and anyone; so be brave, form a team and register. Entertainment wise, the Zadar waterfront will host various bands and artists.

QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www. vakanza-zd.com.

Photo by Dino Ninković, Fresh Island Festival Archives

Picigin at Bačvice Beach, Photo by Ivo Pervan, Friends of the Sea - Games

Sport

14.07 » Basket Tour Its 3x3 basketball whether the winner takes it all. Season six is well under way and Croatia is again a competing country last year reaching the semi-finals. The national tournament is held over 12 rounds in 12 cities with the winners able to play off for the European Championships in Switzerland. Zadar is on the calendar for July 14 and the FIBA WORLD TOUR play off will be at the City Galleria.

QN‑5, City Galleria, Murvička 1, www.basket-tour.com.

05.08 » The 45th traditional swimming marathon Preko-Zadar Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riviera (Ugljan Island), you can catch the ships which leave for Preko at 07:30 as the event starts at 09:00. By 10:00 the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools.

Fun and fitness for all.Qwww.pkzadar.hr.

19.08 » Jadran Rowing Duel Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy.QJa‑ zine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

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Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives

Croatian Inventors great minds from a small country

Croatian Inventors

By Andrea Pisac If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness gene, Croatia would rank extremely high. This small country of no more than 4.5 million people has advanced the world in all major spheres of life. Croatian inventors have dreamed up ingenious abstract concepts and have also created hands-on solutions that we use in everyday life.

Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” with his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala whose pen allows us to sign our name – physically on paper and metaphorically as a legacy.

Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most geniuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our biggest civilizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being rescued from oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned by the physicist Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s theory of relativity by 200 years. What better way to connect to your travel destination than to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s major innovators.

Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was not until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it. Many think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute. But the revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) concept was actually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Vrančić. In his masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice 1615), this genius polymath depicted 56 different machines, devices, and technical concepts. Many were bridges, mills and turbines.

Next time you admire San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Bridge, remember that the suspension bridge was Vrančić’s brainchild.

The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested. It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from St Mark's Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to finally conquer the sky.

Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet. But when you pick them up in your seasoned years, think of the mathematician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This Dubrovnik-born colleague of Galileo Galilei set the stage for modern day optics.

A pioneer in building conic lenses, he would retire into the so called Bete’s cave outside the Dubrovnik city walls and conduct his experiments with mirrors. The parabolic mirror he built still survives and is kept at the National Maritime Museum in London.

Again, a parabolic mirror may not sound like much. But next time you tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, remember, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications.

Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are the abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to show but they forever change the way we see the world. This is why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Dubrovnik-born mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher – the father of modern physics.

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His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory of Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains super-modern theories that were proven and embraced only two centuries later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny particles, today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space. The true meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be lost to a layperson. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity – the biggest discovery of the 20th century – and remember that it wouldn’t have been possible without Bošković’s ideas.

But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical solutions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome and setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan.

Ivan Lupis (1813-1875) Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technological breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian navy officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden with explosives.

The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly caught the attention of the English engineer Robert Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most important military resources in both World Wars.

Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925) Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows.

On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for an ID for example.

Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who later emigrated to Argentina and became the director of the Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892 Vučetić made the first positive identification of a criminal based on a bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of fingerprinting classification became the golden standard in CSIs around the world.

Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what happens every day when you turn your lights switch on!

His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was initially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the system of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when you flip through TV channels. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Inventors His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the controversy here?

But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Tesla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man changed the planet as probably no one before or after him.

And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla!

David Schwarz (1850-1897) When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was an important step in designing airships which could be controlled by engine-driven propellers.

Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it happened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zeppelin bought Schwarz's patent from his widow, the reason why the airship is named after him.

Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the number of times you put your signature on a document.

The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later, Penkala also created the fountain pen.

These writing accessories became so popular that Penkala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the PenkalaMoster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an establishment with a cult status.

If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by which we leave our mark and our signature in the world.

Tomislav Uzelac Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the portable music library to get closer to his estranged daughter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity.

The first successful MP3 player was invented by the Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research about music file compression carried out in Germany and came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3 player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of you have had it installed on your computers.

The newest inventions There is a new generation of savvy Croatian programmers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art devices. You will come across at least two of them while you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text message and charge your mobile device on a solar-powered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone has 20 of them installed across the city.

When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Archives

Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost food company Podravka.

In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried vegetables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt to reproduce the product, and there were many, was successful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of Vegeta. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Restaurants Croatian These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.

2Ribara A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, www.2ribara.com/zadar/en/. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 150kn). P­A­B­X Bistro Gourmet Kalelarga Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 122kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W Bon Appetit A lovely modern interior with a rustic/pastel feel that oozes comfort! Bon Appetit is all about the food and wine on offer and that means lots of Dalmatian and Mediterranean tradition with modern interpretations. Open day and night, visitors can pop in for refreshments or for a meal.

Fish, meat and dessert varieties are oh so popular here as well as top quality wine.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 33 55 50, www.restaurant-zadar.com.

Open 09:00 - 23:30. (65 - 240kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W Bruschetta The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, www.bruschetta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W Groppo Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (75 200kn). P­i ­J­A­6­B­S­W Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Restaurants Harbor Cookhouse & Club Another gem restaurant off the city port which is newly decked with old ship and submarine parts! The cuisine is a fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian with ingredients from local producers. Dishes such as Octopus with cream of Kalamata olives or Chicken sliced marmalade la Parmigiana are top sellers. Desserts are equally as good!

This combined restaurant/lounge bar also has live performances and DJs for entertainment.QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30 15 20, www.harbor.hr.

Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 205kn). P­i ­A­E­G­B­ X­W Kaštel Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends.

Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.

QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, www.hotel-bastion.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 190kn). P­i ­A­L­G­B­X­W Kornat Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01, www.restaurant-kornat.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (75 190kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Malo misto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ matinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 170kn).

P­A­G­B­X­W Pet Bunara This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great.

During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat!QD‑3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, www.petbunara.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 160kn).

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Proto Food&More Having opened earlier in the year, Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the all-round experience offered. Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at reasonable prices. Open from sunrise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here.

Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31. Open 09:00 - 01:00.

(65 - 110kn). P­i J­A­G­B­X­SW Marina Kornati Archives

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Restaurants Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Bistro Pjat Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediterranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best restaurant/tavern in the city. With daily specials and an enticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (75 - 155kn).

Rafaelo On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­L­G­B­X­S­W

Trattoria Canzona Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies.

Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

Italian Pašta & Svašta This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls.

As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www. pastasvasta.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (35 - 120kn). P­i­ J­A­6­G­B­X­W Salsa Rossa Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 07:00 23:00. (75 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­W 16 Zadar In Your Pocket

Skoblar Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines.

Live music most weekends too.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­i ­J­A­6­G­B­X­S­W Stomorica Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today, it’s a beautiful place to eat out: still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing nights on Friday evening. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC‑3, Sto‑ morica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 70kn). P­T­J­N­G­B­X­S­W Zadar - Jadera A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 100kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

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Restaurants Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Anita If you’re heading back inland or for the Paklenica National Park by the old, non-highway route, look for the village Zaton Obrovački, about half an hour’s drive from Zadar.

Here they make tasty lamb and pork roasted on spit as well as fresh, homemade bread cooked under the iron bell (ispod peke). If you drop in, you won’t regret it.QZaton Obrovački, Posedarje, tel. (+385-23) 68 93 50/(+385-) 091 582 85 85. Open 07:00 - 22:00. L­N­B Sabunjar Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.

Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Studenac and Getro.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 120kn).

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SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Tamaris A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www.tamariszadar.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­ 6­U­L­G­B­X­W

Seafood Foša One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, www.fosa.hr.

Open 12:00 - 01:00. (130 - 250kn). P­J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W

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Restaurants Taverna Diklo A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised.

The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s best to book in advance for prime positioning.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn).

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Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy.

Mamma Mia Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty.

And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www. mammamia.fullbusiness.com/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 180kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W

Lungo Mare Located on the Lungo Mare, a road that winds picturesquely around the indented coastline north of the peninsula, the terrace of this restaurant is a lovely spot to relax during the day or evening. Food is prepared from fresh ingredients, and the restaurant’s specialities include delicacies made with fresh truffles from Istria.QJ‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +385-23) 23 09 75, www.lungo-mare.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W

Šime A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+38523 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P­6­L­N­G­B­X­S­W

Niko Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko. hr. Open 12:30 - 24:00. (90 - 190kn). P­A­6­L­G­S­W

Tri bunara This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri bu‑ nara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. (37 - 72kn). P­i ­T­J­6­N­G­B­X­S­W

Martinac Archives

Out of town Kožino Pineta Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar. Two years ago the restaurant was redesigned to better accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile for their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and fish, Pineta has

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Restaurants created family-friendly weekend menus at affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all manner of festivities.

QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/ (+385-) 098 35 79 12, www.pineta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(75 - 140kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

pag island Boškinac This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+385-53) 66 35 00, www.boskinac.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (145 290kn). P­i ­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

petrčane Kraljevski Vinogradi Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely specializes in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia — Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.

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Breakfast Forum Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, focaccia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC‑3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (1 60kn). P­N There’s no doubt you will leave their tasting room and tavern with an unforgettable experience!QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, www.kraljevskivinogradi.hr/en/. Open 13:00 - 24:00.

Sukošan Kaleta Kaleta means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food – try their Pašticada – Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocchi – order a day in advance.QTrg 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 182 34 37. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (70 200kn). P­T­A­U­L­E­G­B­S­W

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Restaurants

Kod Guste A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink).

QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03. Open 16:00 - 23:00. (65 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­W Portus Beach Club & Restaurant The newest sensation on Croatia’s shoreline is the Portus Beach Club, a luxurious venue comprising of two restaurants; a bar and kids play area. The complex is central to one of the best marinas on the Adriatic which has also been awarded with the prestigious Blue Flag. There are deck chairs and parasols for sunbathing on the pontoons and the venue oozes in style and class!QBibinje - Sukošan 1, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 20 03 50. Open 07:30 - 00:30.

Vinjerac Konoba Pece We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjer‑ ac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 - 120kn). P­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W

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Salsa Rossa Archives

Budget Obelix Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town. Rich and healthy breakfast added to menu recently.QG‑2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik, tel. (+385-) 099 334 96 55. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (9 - 40kn). G­B­X­W 20 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari – “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was. In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home.

However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, homemade olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities.

Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley.

Simply delicious.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

A speciality from this region is vara – chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.

Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta.

Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo – with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada – beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol – bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.

Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.

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Local Flavour

E@T, Eat Food in the digital age, Taste and Travel Festival Archives

foodie’s guide 24.06 » A feast of mussels in Novigrad Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle. Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These days, any connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.QNovigrad, www. novigrad-dalmacija.hr.

15.07 - 16.07 » Šokolijada For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun.

It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!QNin, www.nin.hr.

03.08 » The Festival of Salt The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, 22 Zadar In Your Pocket

individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to those used today, processes and the panning of salt from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be seen.QThe Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, www.solananin.hr.

15.08 - 15.09 » Fig Festival If olives are the vegetable of Dalmatia, then figs are the fruits of Dalmatia! That being said, having an entire festival dedicated to this devoured fruit is no exaggeration.This is the 10th jubilee year of the event with the true highlight on the 7th and 8th of September. Sample dishes you’d never dream of with figs. By the end of this, you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same light again!

24.08 - 27.08 » Taste and Travel Festival 2017 The new Taste and Travel Festival puts Croatia on the world map of innovations in food industry and beyond. The idea behind the event is to connect young people and entrepreneurs with the market and to create space for the development of new ideas and directions. See the latest in world trends and the future of culinary! The Taste and Travel Festival in Zadar will be presented throughout Croatia.Qwww.facebook.com/ tasteandtravelzadar/. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long.

You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo – a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

Food Market City Market (Pijaca) In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel.

Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.QC‑2, Pod Bedemom bb.

Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Maraschino liqueur Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.

Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.

If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

Samphire At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

Croatian Farm Products Fair Archives

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Local Flavour Wine The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years.

Vinograd Benkovac by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand.

Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend.

All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.

Kraljevski vinogradi Punta Skala Archives

Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines.

facebook.com/ zadarinyourpocket 24 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Coffee & Cakes

Coffee & Cake Zadar Archives

coffee Callegro The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.

We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, www.callegro. com/. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. P­N­G­ B­X­W Cogito Coffee Shop Creating top quality coffee and all that is deemed ritual about coffee! Cogito is new on the block with its home in Zagreb. This is their second store and they have brought their winning concept to Zadar with cocktails, craft beers, teas and natural juices as added refreshments to soak up that summer sizzle.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III B, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. P­J­B­S­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Forum A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-) 099 266 88 50. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­A­G­B­X­W Guam Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33 05.

Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­N­B­X­W Illy Concept Bar New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4.

Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­B­X­W Summer 2017

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Coffee & Cakes Lovre The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­6­N­G­B­X­W

Gourmet Kalelarga Archives

art cake shop Mirjana Pilipović - A pastry chef ZIYP: Where did you find inspiration in becoming a confectioner?

Mirjana: I always found inspiration in things that were new and different. So I wanted to do something with sweets that was missing in the city of Zadar. ​ IYP: What are your favourite flavour combinaZ tions?

Mirjana: Joining what is traditional and modern has always been a big challenge, for example chocolate and asparagus, lavender and cinnamon, olive oil and chocolate, rosemary and honey...

ZIYP: Which desserts with authentic ingredients would you recommend to our guests?

Mirjana: There is a wide variety of such desserts but we’ll narrow it down to a few; the Zadar cake, Rosemary cake, Pag Rhapsody, Kalelarga cake and of course desserts with cherry maraschino.

ZIYP: Which homemade ingredient do you feel isn’t being used as much but could make for a great dessert?

Mirjana: These are: figs, rosemary, lavender etc.

Porthos Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too.QO‑6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Open 07:00 - 01:30.

P­N­G­B­X­W

Sweet treats Art Kalelarga What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay than by gobbling down some amazing cake combinations. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing asparagus cake.QC‑3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B­X­W Coffee & Cake Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few can resist. Choose to dine in or soak up the sun with seating available outdoors.QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vran‑ janina 14, tel. (+385-) 091 302 81 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. J­G­B­X­W Danica A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes and pastries from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www. restorani-zadar.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B

ZIYP: What will all the new Art Cake Shop offer?

Mirjana: When we first began selling our confectionaries and cakes five years ago, we always tried to introduce some new types of novelties. With the opening of our new cake shop we continue with our novelties and the extended offer. I have chosen not to give away any of my sweet secrets for now, but I do know and am 100% sure that the new cake shop will not ‘disappoint.

Donat Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB‑3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29/ (+385-) 098 917 51 00, www.donatice.hr. Open 07:00 23:00. July - August 15th Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N­ G­B­W

ZIYP: And in the end what would be your mantra or philosophy?

Mirjana: People always need to experiment and connect what’s disconnected.

Iva Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC‑3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 01:00. P­N­G­B­W

26 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Nightlife

Photo by GOXMAG, Papaya Archives

On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar's nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you'll find an unpretentious mix of people.

While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar's sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is.

Hangin’ out Arkada A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 098 44 96 02. Open 07:00 01:30. B­W Arsenal During the summer season Arsenal works as event venue with offer of different concerts of famous bands or musicians.QB‑2, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 33/ (+385-) 099 210 33 09, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. P­T­J­E­N­B­K­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Backstage Bar Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:00 23:00. P­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W Cafe Gallery Gina Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 01:30. P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Dolce Vita Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC‑4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, tel. (+385-) 091 553 97 27. Open 18:30 - 01:30. P­J­6­N­B­X­W Famous Bar The latest new kid on the block in Zadar is the ‘Famous’ beach bar and grill which is getting the thumbs up from locals. Open from morning till night, ‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.

QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/ (+385-) 092 288 33 10, www.famous.adria-bars.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Summer 2017

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Nightlife Kult Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 430 90 91. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­J­ A­6­B­X­W La Bodega Zadar Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QC‑3, Kale‑ larga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, www. labodega.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

P­i ­T­J­A­G­B­X­W LLoyd One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.

After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB‑3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+38523) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N­G­B­X­W Q Bar A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00.

P­T­N­G­B­X­W Rio Bar Walking distance from the town’s famous Sea Organ, this is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. Refurbished in 2014, ‘Rio Bar’ is truly unique as its main focus is on the 70s era; the sounds of rock, blues and disco echo inside its walls and on the cocktail bar terrace both on weekdays and weekends. The bar’s slogan; ‘Where the funky generation meets’ probably describes it well since it has been a popular meeting place since 1988. So come and feel funky any time!QD‑4, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 73 60. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W Teatro Bar A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with a glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with famous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be or not to be’, this is the place to be…QRuđera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 01:30. P­N­B­X­W The Factory bar It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing.QD‑3, Rušera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 097 730 26 62. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. P­A­B­X­W 28 Zadar In Your Pocket

Toni On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­6­N­G­B­X­W Vinyl bar With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till the late hours.QB‑1, Obala Kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 091 321 08 80. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W Yachting Bar A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts, and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 06:30 03:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 05:00. P­N­B­X­W

Cocktail bars Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee.

In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, www.bamboozadar.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00. T­6­N­ G­B­X­W Mango Day & Night Club This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­6­L­N­B­X­W

Lounge bars Ledana Lounge bar Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for eszadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife caping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 098 63 07 60, www. ledana.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­A­6­B­X­W The Garden Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, www.thegarden. hr/. Open 10:30 - 01:30. J­A­6­U­B­X­W

go dancers, state of the art sound, VIP service and more.

The club is situated directly on Zrce beach which makes it the perfect summer getaway. So come on down for a few days to remember!QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 561 51 03, www.papaya.com.hr. Open 16:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. A­B­X­C­W Saturnus A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), within the Zaton Holiday Resort, with DJ parties and animation shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Re‑ sort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, www.zaton.hr. Open Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. P­L­N­G­B­X­W Papaya Archives

Clubs Kocka bar Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay with a beautiful view of Stari Grad. Whether you’re a fan of funk, rock or pop music, you will love this place with live bands and DJs hosting weekend nights.QC‑1, Obala kneza Bra‑ nimira 64, tel. (+385-23) 31 36 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. P­N­B­X­W Podroom Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!

Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QE‑2, Obala kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-) 099 749 84 51, www.podroom.club. Open Fri and Sat 00:00 - 06:00. From July 15 - August 15 Open 00:00 - 06:00.

P­J­A­E­G­W

Out of town

The Garden Club Zadar Archives

Aquarius If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, homemade ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped – cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, Noval‑ ja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38, www.aquarius.hr/ zrce. Open 00:00 - 24:00. A­6­L­B­K­C­W Papaya Clubbers and party goers, head on down to Papaya Club which hosts two parties per day! Dance under the sun at their pool parties or under the stars to the sounds of the best world DJs and experience various genre festivals at their night parties. This open air beach club is also famous for its spectacular production, entertainment shows, gofacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Sightseeing

St Anastasia’s Cathedral, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history.

Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them.

The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian 30 Zadar In Your Pocket

rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.

Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto.

Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20/10kn. J City Sentinel (Gradska straža) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Admission 20/10kn.

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.

St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv.

Stošije) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.

Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.

QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Jun/Sep open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 22:00. Admis‑ sion 20kn. J

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The Riva “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.

When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.

As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Museums Archaeological Museum zadar (Arheološki muzej zadar) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include

barkarjoli Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians are a hardy lot. Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn.

Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Sightseeing weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire.

The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful.

Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.

Archeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition.

QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www. amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30kn. J Gallery of Arts (Galerija umjetnina) A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti.

QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz. hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, Mon, Thu 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Open every 1st Saturday in month 09:00 13:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Museum of Illusions The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of

Mali Arsenal Once a part of the city fortress built in the 15th century, Mali Arsenal has recently reopened in its restored original form but with a changed interior which is now a high-tech Multimedia Centre. Visitors can learn about Zadar’s fortifications through play and exploration across four different levels. The first level is all about ambiance and 3D visualisation. The second level uses games and motion sensors and the third level is educationally based and includes detection and research using interactive modules on the multi-touch screen. The fourth level encourages visitors to discover the history of 15 places in the old city centre via a mobile application - a virtual guide through Zadar fortifications. The visitor becomes a researcher and once they complete all the tasks, they can share their social networking accomplishments. 3000 years of history taught in the new age and in new ways! www.nmz.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 21:00.

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exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Od‑ bora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 40 - 150kn.

National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History Department, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s palace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/10kn. J The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.

Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30/10kn.

Churches Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s.

The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicirzadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing cular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.

QC‑2, Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 10.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv.

Krševana) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

Statue of Spiridon Brusina (Špiro Brusina), Zadar Tourist Board Archives

St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) This former church building has had an interesting past.

Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 13.

St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.QB‑3.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.

Franje Asiškog) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered.

Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, https://www.svetifrane.org/.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20/10kn.

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 4.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing

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Sightseeing

City Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Statue of Petar Zoranić On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time – a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

Statue of Špiro Brusina The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara.

The Sea Organ, Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara.

Greeting to the Sun Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.

www.inyourpocket.com 36 Zadar In Your Pocket

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR‑3.

The Petar Zoranić Square Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.

QD‑3.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Palaces Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C ‑3.

Palace Grisogono - Vovo (Palača Grisogono - Vovo) Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.QD‑3.

Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula. Over the centuries the palace has experienced many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its foundations had revealed parts of the building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers.

Historically, three restructured projects have taken place; facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

in the 16th century, 19th century and in the 21st century.

The latter was due to its bombing during the Homeland War where it was hit by eight large calibre missiles, causing heavy destruction and damaging the statics of the building. Now and as of recent, the palace has been reconstructed thanks to EU funding and is now a modern equipped cultural complex. This new tourist attraction unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls, and representative halls decorated and conserved in different historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3.

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Sightseeing atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE‑3.

Religious collection Church Collections from the Church of St Elijah the Prophet A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an etching technique.QB‑3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 10 14. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

Admission 10kn.

Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries.

The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and 38 Zadar In Your Pocket

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history.

Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since.

The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:30, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. The Monastery Museum of St. Mihovil’s, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca) There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery (Riznica samostana sv.

Frane) The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more.QA/B‑3, Trg sv. Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, www.svetifrane.org. Open 09:00 18:00. Admission 15/5kn. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Tovareća, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Croatian Critters Beasties of the coast & hinterland

Croatian Critters The Benkovac Fair Not so long ago, just thirty years or so, fairs were an everyday occurrence in every small, mid-sized or larger village or town in Dalmatia. Although that tradition has largely been lost today, there are still a few fairs left in Croatia, one of which deserves a special mention due to the variety of its offering and the colourful people who visit – the Benkovac fair.

The story of this peculiar fair starts one hundred years ago when the town centre of Benkovac, on the 10th day of every month (during the summer), would become the venue of a large livestock fair. It was a place filled with song, laughter and cheer, where guys and girls would dance traditional dances and flirt with one another, and where thus many a love affair was born.

Soon, Benkovac became the centre of Dalmatia for that one day of the month when tens of thousands of farmers, traders and craftspeople would come here to try to sell everything “from a needle to an anchor”.

Nowadays, the fair is held outside the centre on six hectares of land including rocky fields and pine forests in a village named Benkovačko selo, an area where people have always made a living from agriculture, livestock and traditional crafts. Instead of going to soulless shopping centres, people come from all over to buy and sell in a rather more traditional way. Hundreds of traders in livestock and doBikijada Radosic, Photo by Radin Goran, www.dalmatia-pictures.com

The Benkovac fair, Photo by Sandra Babac

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mestic animals, agricultural tools and household wares, as well as owners of local restaurants in improvised tents and a river of visitors and idlers from all corners of Croatia flow through the fair.

What can you find at the Benkovac Fair? The fair's most popular products each month depend on the season. People from the fertile central Croatian regions of Prigorje, Podravina and Međimurje bring flour from their mills; those from the market towns of Varaždin and Bjelovar bring calves, and from the plains of Slavonia mainly pigs and piglets… The hospitable locals take care of the rich gastronomic offering: lamb roast on a spit, suckling pig, food roasted under the lid, and a variety of wines from the local vineyards.

The wonderful thing about the Benkovac Fair is not just its century-old tradition but the fact that this fair is a part of an almost lost way of life in agricultural regions and is an authentic manifestation of commercial, cultural and ethnological heritage.

The Village Olympics and the Bullfight About twenty years ago in a small, tumbledown village with few prospects, a number of locals decided to take a radical step and turn their secluded village into an attractive tourist destination that would be renowned far and wide. They wanted to preserve the memory of their predecessors by maintaining their peaceful and quiet lives, as well as their iconic village festivals!

The eco-ethno village Škopljanci in the Kaštela hinterland is a family-owned property with about twenty old stone houses forming its centre. Twelve of the houses have been completely renovated down to the finest detail in order to preserve their original shape, respecting the traditions and the architecture of the region. The village today is a registered monument of cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia and is monitored closely by the conservation department in Trogir. The village’s rich ethnographic collection is exhibited in the Ethnographic museum which includes more than 800 historical objects of various purposes, traditional folk costumes and other preserved items, managed by the “Fireplace” folklore association and the Škopljanac family.

The village has another, a more unique museum dedicated to one important member of their community – the Museum of Bulls. Bulls are a part of the tradition of Dalmatian uplands, of the village of Radošić and of the Škopljanac family. In times past, bulls were used to plough the fields and people's livelihoods depended on them. A household with a bull was considered a wealthy one. As their number decreased over years, the Škopljanac family has helped reintroduce them to the countryside by organizing their now famous bullfights. The museum features more than 100 specimens, bearing witness to 20 years of bullfighting in Radošić.

In the shade of a hundred-year-old oak forest, a protected monument of nature in the Republic of Croatia, there is a fenced arena in which the Village Olympics and the bullfights are held. The Village Olympics is a special experience which encompasses a host of sporting competitions and numerous old village games which have been forgotten zadar.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Critters due to the ever-increasing pace of life. Many people take part in these games in order to test their strength and their skills in various disciplines such as stone-throwing, arm wrestling (for women and men), fighting on a shaft, pulling pistons, donkey racing, throwing a boule into a drum from horseback, standing long jump and tug-o-war (for women and men).

The bullfights are held in a large fenced arena on the last Sunday in the month of May. The first bullfight was organized in 1993 and a year later it was officially regulated to protect these noble animals whose nature is to fight and prove their strength.

Those few locals twenty years ago probably couldn’t have imagined that their radical idea would one day attract 1015 thousand visitors into their small village every year!

Donkey races Donkeys are common domestic animals the world over. In popular culture, donkeys have gained the reputation for stubbornness and not being exactly the brightest sparks, so in many languages including Croatian, the word for donkey (magarac) took on a pejorative meaning. However, because donkeys are long-lived (they can reach over 40 years old), are sure-footed on rocky terrain such as that found in Dalmatia and don't need shoeing, for centuries they have been used in this region to help with the heavy work. At one time, there would have been more than 40,000 donkeys in Dalmatia whereas now there are just over 1000 of them.

Although they are not as fast as horses, donkeys can, if they must, run as fast as 50 km/h. The revival of donkey racing is just one of the ways of reintroducing donkeys to the Dalmatian landscape.

Tribunj During summer, a number of donkey races take place along the coast, but special mention has to go to the oldest racing event in the town of Tribunj. The donkey race in Tribunj has been held for 50 years now, every 1 August to honour this hard-working animal which has helped local people throughout the town's history.

It all started when local students came up with the idea in 1952, organising a donkey race during their summer break. Since 1957, the race has been held every year with only a few exceptions.

Only born-and-bred Tribunj locals may take part, usually 12 of themper race. The donkey riders wear Tribunj folk dress as people used to wear every day for working in the field. The race course goes through the town centre which lies on a little islet.

Just like in the famous Croatian knights’ tournament the Alka in Sinj where the leader is called the “alaj-čauš”, the donkey race has an “alaj-ćuša” who makes sure that everything takes place in accordance with the donkey race's statute and who starts the race with a shot from his pistol.

The winner is the first one to cross the finishing line, which, bearing in mind the well-known stubbornness of the donkey, is not the easiest thing in the world! Apart from a cash prize, the winner takes home a statue of a donkey which is passed on to the new winner each year. After the end of the donkey race, the whole town parties until dawn. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Tovareća, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Just across the Tribunj waterfront lies the islet of Logorun with the first donkey reserve in the world. It is possible to visit the island, where you will find that the island’s only inhabitants are quite tame and friendly.

Tisno As opposed to the Tribunj race which is reserved only for local competitors, the donkey race in a nearby Tisno is an international event open to representatives from different countries.

Exactly for this reason, the race at Tisno has become a tourist phenomenon, especially since the organisers, the “Tišnjanski Tovar” society, decided to include tourists and emigrants from Tisno into the race in order to popularise the event around the world.

Sali Another popular donkey race takes place on the island of Dugi otok, located west of Zadar. The “Saljske užance” festival has been held for over 50 years on the weekend before the Feast of the Assumption in August. This three day event culminates with a traditional donkey race on the Riva, the town's waterfront. Once the race is over, prizes (e.g. pršut) are awarded for the fastest donkey and the laziest donkey, i.e. the last one to cross the finish line. The laziest donkey and its owner receive a diploma for their efforts.

Apart from the donkey race, tourists may take part in the preparation of local specialities, listen to the so-called “donkey music”, compete in a variety of traditional sports and competitions and enjoy the programme of entertainment on Riva.

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Zadar Surroundings

St. Nicholas Church, Photo by Mladen Radolović, Nin Tourist Board Archives

North of Zadar Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

Nin The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located

Agritourism Gospodarstvo Roca Tourism with a very natural touch! Welcome to this farm which is family run and has a primary focus on breeding pork meat (Yorkshire, Landrasse…) The entire set-up maintains the true spirit of an old stone village in the Dalmatian hinterland where guests can enjoy local products and authentic dishes in their tavern. Best to book but casual passers-by will always be welcomed.QStankovci, tel. (+385) 091 583 40 43.

Open 13:00 - 23:30. (70 - 400kn). 6­N 42 Zadar In Your Pocket

on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.

A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.

What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

Nin Tourist Board QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00 - 21:00. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day.

The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).QIlirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26 40 21, www.solananin. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35 - 65kn. A

Novigrad Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.

Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.

Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.

During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.

The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.

Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

Tourist Office of the Municipality of Novigrad QTrg kralja Tomislava 1, Novigrad, tel. (+385-23) 37 50 51, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 15:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.

The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

Zaton Tourist Board QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Zaton Holiday Resort QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, www.zaton.hr.

Zaton This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The town was inhabited from the Bronze Age right up until the late Roman period - a time span of at least a millennium.

Asseria’s blossoming as a town took place during the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, when it was one of the main settlements of the Liburnians. The oldest remains in Asseria which have been found to date are from the 5th century BC, and show us a town with walls 7m high and 3.2m thick, built as part of the military belt protecting the rich cultural life on the coast from barbarian invasion from inland. Built on the proscribed lines of a Roman city, Asseria had a town square, a water system, public baths and a necropolis where cylindrical gravestones known as “cipus” have been discovered. The most important Roman monument is a triumphal arch, one of seven entrances into the city, built in 113 AD in honour of Roman Emperor Trajan.

Annual archaeological digs at Asseria are revealing more and more fascinating layers of history beneath.

Ceramics from the Greek period that predated the Roman settlement here have been unearthed, and also from the age of the Liburnians before them. As you’ll know if you’ve visited the Archaeological Museum in Zadar or Nin, such relics of one of the oldest European civilisations are not only awe-inspiring due to their age, but also because of their simple beauty. Visiting Asseria is a chance not only to see more of these, but also to experience the scale of such an old settlement in its entirety.

The Church of St Martin near Benkovac yielded a few surprises some years ago, when an old storeroom was opened up and found to contain more than 2000 silver pieces from the treasury of King Koloman (or Kalman) of Hungary, part of the riches he used to finance his quest for the Croatian crown. (His quest was successful - as part of a treaty, he was crowned King of Croatia in 1102 in Biograd, the first time in history that the Kingdoms of Croatia and Hungary were joined).

The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century.

At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at 44 Zadar In Your Pocket

the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century.

Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient, ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable.

Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region.

As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”).

It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post. Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those described above are the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through the millennia.

South of Zadar South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake in its present lively and romantic Riviera. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

Sakarun, Dugi otok, Photo by Boris Kačan, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

Biograd n/m The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.

Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic – travelling throughout their territories between their power bases – often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 – the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head – this time, by treaty.

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com. Open 46 Zadar In Your Pocket

08:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn.

Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities.

The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zazadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings dar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake.

There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant.

It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Biograd n/m Tourist Board Information on activities, trips and maps of the area.QTrg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Vransko Lake Nature Park QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, www.vransko-jezero.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Manage‑ ment only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 21:00 which includes weekends. Entrance 20/10 kn.

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Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast.

If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers.

Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

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Zadar Surroundings A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali.

Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Dugi otok Tourist Board QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Veli rat, Dugi otok, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Nature Park “Telašćica” QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pp-telascica. hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued

by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 - 40kn.

Iž

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Biking Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring.

One of the oldest cycling route is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly welldeveloped tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sightseeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. For more info call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, www.zadar.hr.

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This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Zadar Tourist Board office QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.

Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Pag Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.

Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings

Mountain Velebit and beach Zdrijac, Photo by Boris Kačan, Nin Tourist Board Archives

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.

The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet. hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

Paklenica National Park QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, www.nppaklenica.hr. Open 06:00 - 20:30. Ticket 30 - 150kn.

The Underground Town of Paklenica Beneath the breath-taking natural phenomena of the Velebit Mountain which is home to hikers, mountain climbers and bush walkers, a new world has been established. A fully restored bunker filled with tunnels from the 1950s has been given a facelift. At a depth of 80 meters, multi-disciplinary activities evoke the natural beauty of the Velebit with modern installations and interactive activities. Well worth a visit whilst there as it combines ecology, geology, speleology, botany, ethnology, folklore and history.Qwww.np-paklenica.hr.

Open 08:00 - 15:30. Admission free.

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The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Pag Tourist Information Centre QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, www.tzgpag. hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Pašman Tourist Board QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr.

Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.

Tkon Tourist Board QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzo-tkon. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.

The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to

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the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar.

The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?).

Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

Silba Tourist Board QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00.

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Zadar Surroundings

National Park Paklenica, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute Surf, Photo by Boris Kačan, Nin Tourist Board Archives

walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, superclean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Kukljica Tourist Board QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www. kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July - Sep‑ tember Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Preko Tourist Board QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www.preko. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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Leisure Zadar is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of peddling, climbing, sailing, diving...

Adrenalin Sports These are packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock climbing, wind surfing,…)

Bora Tours In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, www.boratours.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat. N Izazov Tours Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for lifelong memories. The lads on the Maslenica Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.QMaslenica Bridge, tel. (+385) 098 53 22 53, www.izazov-tours. hr. July - August 31 Open 14:00 - 20:00. Other months open by prior arrangement.

Surfmania centre Want a taste of adrenaline? Then head to the Ždrijac Beach, next to Nin. There you’ll find a school for kitesurfing and windsurfing, and you can even rent these along stand up paddle boards. Drop in and be prepared to be bloooooown away!QŽdrijac Beach, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, www.surfmania.hr. Open 12:00 - 18:00, de‑ pending on weather conditions.

Tajer lighthouse, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

Diving

KK Libertas Archives

Albamaris QIvane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 35/ (+385-) 098 193 53 30, www.albamaris.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. N Scuba Adriatic QM‑3, Dražnikova 76 t, Zaton Holiday Resort, ZatonNin, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, www.scubaadriatic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N Zadar Sub QN‑2, Dubrovačka 38, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, www.zadarsub.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. N Zlatna luka QMarina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091 252 80 21, www.diving-zlatnaluka.net. Open 10:00 18:00. N facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Leisure Excursions These agencies offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit your needs (Kornati excursion, Plitvice…)

Aquarius Plitvice, Krka, Kornati trips. Also at Špire Brusine 13, D3QD‑2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29 19, www. aquariuszadar.com. Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 24:00. A Terra Sailing Trips Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the amount of available packages on offer.QG‑3, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, www.sailingcroatia. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Val tours Guided multiactivity tours. QTrg hrvatskih velikana 1, Bi‑ ograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, www.val-tours.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Cerovac Caves (Cerovačke špilje, Velebit Nature Park) Declared as a geo-morphological natural monument, the Cerovac Caves are one of the most famous caves in Croatia.

The entire complex consists of three caves (Upper, Lower and Central) which run approx. 7km in length. Also, they are one of the largest cave bear findings in Croatia which explains the given names such as the Bear Trench and Bear Hall.Qtel. (+385-) 099 814 47 24, www.pp-velebit. hr. Entrance hours: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30, 16:00 and 17:30. Entrance hours April, September, October: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30 and 16:00. Admission for one cave 50/30 kn, two caves 80/50 kn.

Dugi otok bay, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

Zlatna luka, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There are over 150km mountaineering trail, which take a few days to hike. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it – it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers. Two mountain refuges open for visitors are Ivine vodice and Struge. There are a great number of routes for hikers and climbers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures, information and advice.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+38523) 36 91 55, www.np-paklenica.hr. Open 06:00 - 20:30.

30 - 150kn.

Family Fun Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayaking…)

Adventure Park Zadar Adventure and fun for everyone with paintball, zipline and kids’ playground.QKožinska cesta 108, Kožino, tel. (+385-) 098 85 44 31, www.adventure-park.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. N 54 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Leisure vided into three areas: Pirate City, Wild West and the Universe. Each thematic park is jammed with entertainment games, hospitality, souvenirs, events and concerts. Perfect for a day out!QFra Lina Pedisića 4, Biograd n/m, www. funparkmirnovec.com.

Velebit Photo Safari Adventure on four wheels with this jeep trip through the Velebit Mountains and the canyon of the Zrmanja River. It’s an all day trip which lasts for 8 hours with plenty of stop offs for photos and taking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. Food and drinks are included in the package and you can book telephone or email.Qtel. (+385) 098 27 28 78, www.hotel-rajna.com/english/fotosafari.

Beaches

Dalmatia Aquapark Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, www.aquapark-dalmatia.com/hr/. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Konjički centar Libertas Located within the Zaton Resort, trail riding is offered which is customised to the varying degrees of knowledge and skills of participants. The littlies are never forgotten with pony rides available too.

Take the amazing Zaton ‘beach tour’ on horseback. Do note, for those who are not staying at the resort but wish to go horse-riding, you will need to pay a 200kn entry fee to enter the resort itself and when you get to the Libertas Horse Centre, you will receive a refund voucher where you will get your money back at the resort entry.QDražnikova 76 t, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Open 07:00 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good facilities including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east.

Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas.

Konjički klub Maximus There is no horsing around here; it’s all first class recreational riding. Novices are welcomed as they offer riding school training, trail riding, hiking on horseback, and riding for children at Bili Brig. Saddle up and giddy up!QN‑1, Ante Rudana 63, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-) 095 522 25 12.

Open by prior arrangement.

If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby.

But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.

Closest is the island of Ošljak.. But the further you venture, the better it gets.

Mirnovec Fun Park One of the newest attractions to this part of Croatia is the opening of this Gardaland style Adventure Park in Biograd na Moru. Based on other famous world entertainment centres, patrons will be able to enjoy 24 attractions di-

All the islands we feature in Zadar Surroundings have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!

And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.

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Shopping Art Galleries Anima Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC‑3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www. anima.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Buža As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N Laudato Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, www.galerije.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A

Made in Croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. Galeb Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally known for conventional and classical underwear. Today, the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger audience following the latest trends in design. Another range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club, with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. Closed Sun. A Museum of Illusions Archives

Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 04 45, www.guliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Delicatessen shop Atrox vina A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines from all regions, as well as sparkling wines and champagnes! The company occasionally organises the promotion of local wines in collaboration with local hotels or restaurants. So deep thinkers of wine, or connoisseurs of the fine drop will find Atrox vina heaven on earth.QD‑1, J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 54 26, www.atroxzadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bibich A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Crolicious A goodie foodie gastro store with Croatian and local products particularly from Dalmatia. Delicacies also include fine wines, homemade cosmetics and much more, all of which make for a good and tasty souvenir.QC‑3, Vladi‑ mira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-) 091 358 17 71. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Delikatese Lukin Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat!QC‑2, Pod be‑ demom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. J­A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheese.

Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, www. gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

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Shopping Puntica Authentic prosciutto, bacon and other traditional meat products that are produced and sold from their very own production facility. In addition, they also offer cheese, wine, olive oil, salted anchovies, and other delicacies from local producers. It’s a Dalmatian sensation!QL‑4, J.J.Strossmayera 15, tel. (+385-) 091 413 72 14, www. dalmatinski-prsut.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Museum Artwork The Ancient Glass Museum Shop Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A The Archaeological Museum Shop An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr/en/.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. N Maraska Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3, tel. (+385-) 099 755 91 61, www.maraska.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Olvin A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.QN‑5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.

Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

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Souvenirs Andreaart A small gift shop where you can find local ceramics, handbags, jewellery, paintings, lamps and other one of a kind home décor! Best of all, it’s 100% local in design and handmade of course.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 5, tel. (+385-23) 64 62 48. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Cvjećarnica Snježana Gents, you can never go wrong with flowers and there’s definitely a fine assortment of all sorts at this store. Other items include souvenirs, tiny laces, lavender sachets, handmade handbags and more.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 7, tel. (+385-) 099 213 13 08. Open Mon - Wed 8:00 - 12:30, Thu - Fri 08:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping centres City Galleria QN‑5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www. citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P Supernova centar Zadar QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. supernova.hr/zadar/. Open 09:00 - 22:00. W 58 Zadar In Your Pocket

Crolicious Gourmet & Gift Shop Archives

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Where to stay hotels In Croatia hotels are graded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with reasonable prices nearby.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swimming pool are frequently provided.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main attractions. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car park, gym and one or more swimming pools.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation. Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist is also on duty 24 hours.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island’s beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

Private accommodation In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to attract guests all year round.

Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families.

The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croatian coast include great value for money and direct contact with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury apartments. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria. When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools.

Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

Hostels Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Arrival & Getting Around

Port, Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

arriving By boat

arriving By bus

Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 4kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at news stands buys you two trips.The ticket office at the station is open 05:40 - 22:00.

Jadrolinija QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00/(+38523) 25 05 55, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+38523) 25 10 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 06:00 - 22:15.

QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ (+385-23) 66 61 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00.

Miatours Catamaran Lines Zadar- Premuda – Silba- Olib.QB‑2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, www.miatours.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A 60 Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar Coach Station Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass.

The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnijazadar.hr.

arriving By car The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

arriving By plane Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

Calimero QM‑5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1a, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www.calimero-sport. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Eurobike - Bianchi QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 2a, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Mondena travel QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/(+385-) 098 65 47 02, www.mondenatravel.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement.

A

Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, www.zadar-airport.hr.

Zzuum QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385-) 091 733 16 10/(+385-) 098 27 21 00, www.zzuum.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

arriving By train

Car rental

The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains, online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets.

Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.

Avia Rent a scooter too. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD‑2, Narod‑ nog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 570 22 31, www.avia-rentacar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30. A

Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) QO‑1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 12 67/National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

Biking Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.

Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Tourist Information During July, Zadar Tourist Board, Zadar County Tourist Board and Zadar Tourist Information Centre will move into a common office at the following address: Jurja Barakovića 5 (D-2). All telephone numbers, working hours, as well as email addresses will stay the same.

Tourist Information Centre QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, www. zadar.travel. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

Zadar Tourist Board QD‑3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zadar County Tourist Board QA‑3, Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Arrival & Getting Around Dollar & Thrifty QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Lulić Also at Zadar Airport, tel.(+385-) 098 31 37 47.QJ‑ ‑1, Put kotarskih serdara 60, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 31 37 47, www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. A Modul Auto QO‑1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, www. modulauto.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Oryx QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 15/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, www.oryx-rent.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Terra QG‑2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, www. terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Left Luggage Bagul Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your belongings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour depending on the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. Up to 50 kn for the entire day!QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 7, tel. (+385-23) 23 04 82/(+385-) 091 956 48 04. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:30 - 21:00.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas – they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

Liburnija QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Basics Customs

Visas

There are no custom limits between EU member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Croatian visa policies are fully compliant with the European Union visa policy and standards. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Disabled Travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (385) 195.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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AlesandraParavije Paravije B-3 Alesandra B-3 AnteKuzmanića Kuzmanića E-3,4 Ante E-3,4 BanaJosipa JosipaJelačića Jelačića D-1 Bana D-1 BartulaKašića Kašića D-3/E-3 Bartula D-3/E-3 Bedemizadarskih zadarskihpobuna pobuna A,B,C,D-2 A,B,C,D-2 Bedemi BenedikteBraun Braun M-5 Benedikte M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 BiskupaJurja JurjaDivnića Divnića K-5/B-2 Biskupa K-5/B-2 BlažaJurjeva Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Blaža L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 BožidaraPetranovića Petranovića K-6/A-3 Božidara K-6/A-3 BraćeBersa Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće K-6/A-3 BraćeBilšić Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće K-6/A-3 BraćeVranjanin Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Braće L-6/C-3 BrneKarnarutića Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brne K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 ĆirilaIvekovića Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Ćirila L-6/C-4 DalmatinskogSabora Sabora L-5,6 Dalmatinskog L-5,6 DDininaarrsskkaa JJ--44 DonIve IveProdana Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Don L-5,6/D-3 ĐureSudete Sudete J-3,4 Đure J-3,4 ElizabeteKotromanić Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Elizabete L-6/D-3

Forum K-6/C-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Foša L-6/D,E-4 FraDonata DonataFabijanića Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra K-6/A,B-3 FraŠimuna ŠimunaKlimantovića Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Fra L-6/D-4 FranjeizizMilana Milana L-6/D-4 Franje L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 GrgeOštrića Oštrića J-4 Grge J-4 GrguraMrganića Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grgura K-6/B-3 GrigoraViteza Viteza L-3 Grigora L-3 HrvojaHrvatinića HrvatinićaVukčića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Hrvoja L-6/C-2 IlijeSmiljanića Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Ilije L-5,6/D-3 IstarskaObala Obala J-5,6/A-3 Istarska J-5,6/A-3 IvanaBrkanovića Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana L-4,5/C-1 IvanaBršića Bršića K-5 Ivana K-5 IvanaDanila Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana K-6/A-3 IvanaMažuranića Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana K-4,5/B,C-1 IvanaMeštrovića Meštrovića K-3,4 Ivana K-3,4 JakšeČedomila-Čuke Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jakše K-5/B-3 JerolimaVidulića Vidulića K-6/B-3 Jerolima K-6/B-3 JosipaJurja JurjaStrossmayera Strossmayera L-4 Josipa L-4 JurjaBarakovića Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Jurja L-5/D-2,3 JurjaBijankinija Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja K-6/B-3

JurjaDalmatinca DalmatincaMatejeva Matejeva L-5/C-3 Jurja L-5/C-3 Kazališniprolaz prolaz C-3 Kazališni C-3 KnezovaŠubića ŠubićaBribirskih Bribirskih F-6 Knezova F-6 KraljaDmitra DmitraZvonimira Zvonimira M-6 Kralja M-6 KraljskogDalmatina Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Kraljskog L-6/C-3 KrešimiraČošića Čošića M-6 Krešimira M-6 Krešimirovaobala obala B-4 Krešimirova B-4 Liburnskaobala obala K-5/B-2 Liburnska K-5/B-2 LukeJelića Jelića K-6/A-3 Luke K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Lukoranska K-4 MajkeMargarite Margarite L-6/C-3 Majke L-6/C-3 MatejaBošnjaka Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Mateja K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Međubedemima bedemima M-6 Među M-6 MiheKlaića Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihe L-6/D-3 MihovilaPavlinovića Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Mihovila L-6/C,D-4 MiroslavaKrleže Krleže J,K-4 Miroslava J,K-4 N.Nikole NikoleMatafara Matafara K-5/B-3 N. K-5/B-3 Narodnitrg trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodni L-6/C,D-3 Narodnoglista lista L-5/D-2 Narodnog L-5/D-2 Obalakneza knezaBranimira Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala K,L-5/C-1 Obalakneza knezaTrpimira Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala K-5/A,B,C,D-1

Obalak.k.P.P.Krešimira KrešimiraIVIVK,L-6/B,D-4 K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala Obalakralja kraljaTomislava Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Obala L,M-5/D-2 Okovrulja vrulja K-4 Oko K-4 PerivojJarula Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivojk.k.J.-Madijevke J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj L,M-6/D,E-3 PerivojVladimira VladimiraNazora Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Perivoj M-5,6/E-3 Podbedemom bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Pod K,L-5/C-2 PoljanaNatka NatkaNodila Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana K-5/B-2 PoljanaŠime ŠimeBudinića Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljana C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 PrečacNikole NikoleJakšića Jakšića K-4 Prečac K-4 PPrreeččkkaa LL--33 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 ProkonzulaGrgura Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Prokonzula K-5,6/B-2,3 PutDikla Dikla G,J-3 Put G,J-3 PutŠimunova Šimunova L,M-3,4 Put L,M-3,4 RafaelaLevakovića Levakovića L-6/D-4 Rafaela L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Ravnice M-6 RikardaJeretova JeretovaKatalinića Katalinića L-5/C-1 Rikarda L-5/C-1 RuđeraBoškovića Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Ruđera L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4 Sirac L-6/D-4

SlavoljubaPenkale Penkale Slavoljuba StaraVoštarnica Voštarnica Stara Stomorica Stomorica StubeSlavoljuba SlavoljubaPenkale Penkale Stube Sv.Nediljice Nediljice Sv. ŠimeLjubavca Ljubavca Šime ŠimeLjubića Ljubića Šime ŠimeVitasovića Vitasovića Šime ŠimunaBenje BenjeKožičića Kožičića Šimuna Širokaulica ulica Široka ŠpireBrusine Brusine Špire TanzlingeraZanottija Zanottija Tanzlingera Trgopatice opaticeČike Čike Trg Trgpet petbunara bunara Trg TrgPetra PetraZoranića Zoranića Trg Trgsv. sv.Frane Frane Trg Trgsv. sv.Krševana Krševana Trg

K-4 K-4 L-5/C-1 L-5/C-1 L-6/C-3,4 L-6/C-3,4 K-4 K-4 L-6/C-4 L-6/C-4 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2,3 L-5/D-2,3 K-5/B-2,3 K-5/B-2,3 K,L-6/B,C-3 K,L-6/B,C-3 L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/B-3 K-6/B-3 B-3 B-3 L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/A-3 K-6/A-3 K-5/B,C-2 K-5/B,C-2

Trgsv. sv.Stošije Stošije Trg Trgtri tribunara bunara Trg UlicaBorelli Borelli Ulica Varoška Varoška VatroslavaLisinskog Lisinskog Vatroslava Velebitska Velebitska Veslačka Veslačka VjekoslavaMaštrovića Maštrovića Vjekoslava VladimiraPapafave Papafave Vladimira Voštarnica Voštarnica Vratasv. sv.Kršovana Kršovana Vrata Vratasv. sv.Roka Roka Vrata Zadarskogmira mira Zadarskog Zlatarska Zlatarska Zoredalmatinske dalmatinske Zore Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zrinsko-Frankopanska

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K-6/B-3 K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4 J-4 K-6/A,B-3 K-6/A,B-3 L-4 L-4 K-5 K-5 K-5 K-5 K-6 K-6 L-5/C-2 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 L-6/C-3 M-5 M-5

Beach Sakarun, Dugi otok, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić