Zadar In Your Pocket No15

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Zadar Summer 2018

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Croatian Cultural Dictionary

Zadar Surroundings

42

The top getaways 5

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

Nature Getaways 52 Great escapes

What’s On 7

Shopping 56

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay

Priceless places and buys

Restaurants

16

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Local Flavour

59

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here 23

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes

Arrival & Getting Around

27

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Nightlife 29

Maps

62-63 64-65

City centre map City map

Zadar Basics

66

Keepn it real

Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing

33

Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

Musical evenings in St Donat, Concert Office Zadar Archives Get cultural! The 58th Musical evenings in St Donat is considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar.

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Foreword Zadar is an ancient city built over three thousand years ago that has withstood some amazing trials and tribulations. Originally a city protected by well-kept walls, it houses an abundance of history from being the first Croatian University (1396) to its protection by four guardian saints; Zoilo, Simeon, Grisogone and Anastasia. A day’s walk around the city will blow you away with the churches, chapels and monuments that have stood the test of time. Yet, there is a modernisation to the city with new features and attractions to spruce up the cultural and tourist offer of the city. Named as the ‘2016 European Best Destination’, Zadar is home to multitudes of food and music festivals, cultural events, concerts, sports gatherings, national parks, bays and more. Clubs, bars and restaurants are always abound and it is really up to each visitor to choose the sort of holiday they prefer; one of sun and fun to peace beneath trees, or flair and dare! Whichever you choose, we wish you a memorable time in one of Croatia’s golden cities.

COver story The cover photo shows the bell tower of Zadar’s Cathedral of St Anastasia.

Built between the 15th and the 19th centuries, it was completed in 1894

by English architect Thomas Graham Jackson. It’s open to the public and worth the climb to the top for the wonderful view of Zadar and its surroundings.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1334-9228 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zadar In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Researcher Dora Gaćeša Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Dalibor Bauernfrajnd, St Anastasia’s Cathedral Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam.

Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo.

So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

Kalypso Archives

Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way.

Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages. Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo. The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

Croatian business conversations This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed.

Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoist wu wei principle (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literally means ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to, indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet. A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to it any time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

Croatian leisure talk Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit’ meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life.

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’.

Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual. But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to www.travelhonestly.com/ croatian-cafe-culture.

And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing.

If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu. Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh.

Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/ slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success.

When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound far-fetched, but pomalo is the Croatian timetravel machine.

Croatian weather talk Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified.

Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude.

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10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain.

If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

Most important ‘empty’ talk

We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions.

But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners. Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk. So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

By Andrea Pisac zadar.inyourpocket.com

Antonija Gospić “Replicas of Antique Glass Beads”, Collection of Museum of Ancient Glass, Men of Glass, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

What‘s On ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN ZADAR AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS...

What’s On Thus far, over 100 artefacts are displayed at the museum, yet with each new exhibition the collection continues to grow and expand whilst it simultaneously places Zadar on the world’s glass art chart.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

SUMMER » Adriatic Molluscs See what’s under the sea with various sea snails and shellfish that live in one of the most beautiful and cleanest seas in the world, the Adriatic Sea. The exhibits are presented via shells and photos taken under the sea and accompanied by a text that will guide the visitor to the history of malacology and coniology in Zadar and to the biology and ecology of marine molluscs.QD‑3, Natural History Department, Medulićeva 2, www.nmz.hr.

Apoxiomen in Saint Donatus, Archaeological Museum Zadar Archives

Exhibitions 26.04 - 12.07 » Ante Rašić – Apoxiomen in Saint Donatus With only seven ancient Greek statues of the athlete ‘Apoxiomen’ in the world, one of which is in Croatia, artist Ante Rašić created a nine meter tall statue of Apoxiomen depicting the athlete in a neo—mannerist manner and covered with six hundred mobile mirrors.The statue will find its home this summer in the amazing pre-Romanesque Church of Saint Donatus; a truly spectacular sight in a divine space!QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.amzd.hr.

05.05 - 14.09 » Péter Gergely Lendvai – Spirit Guardians Award winning Hungarian artist Péter Gergely Lendvai was born in 1977 in Kaposvár and graduated as a graphic artist at The Academy of Fine Arts. His artwork has been greatly influenced by Polynesian art since moving to New Zealand in 2007 and upon his return home last year, the artist fuses his influences ingeniously. Lendvai uses brass wire mesh as a base which fits with hot glass thus creating a wonderful combination of optical effects and graphic quality.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

05.05 - 15.10 » Men of Glass - An overview of artists and exhibitions of contemporary glass art in the Museum of Ancient Glass in Zadar from 2009 to 2018 This international exhibition celebrates the 9th anniversary since the opening of the Museum of Ancient Glass. A multitude of exhibitions and artists have been presented in almost a decade of its work and have educated young people through lectures, workshop and demonstrations.

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SUMMER » Ethnological Characteristics of Northern Dalmatia See the exquisiteness of one of the world’s most beautiful places, northern Dalmatia, at this permanent exhibition.

The traditional culture of the region and its surroundings are so vast and diverse with the dominating figure of Mount Dinara meeting the idyllic Adriatic coast as presented via original items, places and photos.QD‑3, City Lodge, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr.

SUMMER » Permanent exhibition - Six Salon Stories (The historical ambience of the Zadar National Museum) With time comes change, with change comes a new time!

See the story of Zadar broken into six different historical periods. The exhibited artefacts are traces and segments which make up a historical mosaic of Zadar’s people across various centuries. The Rector’s Palace is a prime example of renewal as it was damaged during the 1990s Homeland War and with time rebuilt making it the perfect place to host the exhibition.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića, www.nmz.hr.

SUMMER » A selection of works from the Art Gallery collections A remarkable presentation of 210 works by renowned Croatian and Zadar artists displaying directions and tendencies in Croatian art from the 19th century to the contemporary. The exhibition is divided into several thematic parts: Postmodern Twist, Hyperrealism; Lyric Abstraction, Informel, Materic Painting; The Biafranity of the Seventies; Geometry in Everyday Life; Zadar Photographers; Structured Landscape Paintings; Intimacy and Poetical Realism and other forms too. National and local artistry all in one!QD‑3, Gallery of Fine Arts of Zadar National Museum, Medulićeva 2, www.nmz.hr.

15.06 - 15.09 » Enter into My Life Andy Warhol The fascinating life of Andy Warhol, the leading figure of pop art and one of the most iconic artists of the 20th century will be on full display at this amazing exhibition. zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On Ninety works in total, including celebrity screen-prints, drawings, memorabilia and movie productions will reveal just how intriguing and amazing his personality and life was. It’s true pop art at heart!QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Pol‑ jana Šime Budinića, www.nmz.hr.

Mali arsenal, National Museum Zadar Archives

Hellenistic pottery, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

Marilyn Monroe, Enter Into My Life - Andy Warhol, Rector’s Palace Archives

Gallery of Arts, National Museum Zadar Archives

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18.06 - 31.08 » The Most Poisonous Snakes of the World See one of the biggest private collections of snakes in Europe, the exhibition showcases not only the most famous snakes such as the black and green mamba, the spitting cobra, Gabon viper, boa and python, but also large poisonous snakes – the six year old Royal Cobra called Elvis which is now nearly 4 meters long. And if you’re brave, you can hold the non-venomous snakes in your hands!QD‑3, City Lodge, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr.

29.06 - 13.07 » Friends of the Sea - Like In the Old Days In its 9th edition, this transit exhibition and project takes place on the shores of the Adriatic and will have visited 13 Croatian destinations by September. It dwells into the world of photography and promotes the value of life on the Adriatic coast. Each year the event is viewed by over one million visitors and the 2018 exhibition will include 60 black and white records of the present-day Croatian Adriatic made in large format, yet visually replicating the golden age of fine art photography and geometric pure visuals of old times. Beautiful, classy and emotional – this is nostalgia at its finest. Also at Biograd 13.07 - 20.07.

Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

01.07 - 01.10 » Abracadabra. Magic of the Ancient Times found in the collection of the Zadar Archaeological Museum This isn’t about Casper the Ghost, the Adam’s Family or Bewitched, rather it leads to a past that was much more prone to the unnatural, or should we say the supernatural, a phenomena beyond human reasoning. Magic (witchcraft or spells) is a mystical skill which manipulates the consciousness and through autosuggestion seeks to make people believe that they can achieve certain results and gain supernatural powers and abilities, using rituals for that purpose. Magic was especially popular in ancient Greece and Rome, with people being superstitious, believing in witches, wizards, astrologers and performing magic rituals and prophecies in the name of deity. Through the collection of artefacts which are part of the museum’s collection, the not-so familiar topic of magic is presented to the wider public in a very interesting way. The secret password is in the title of the exhibit…QC‑3, Archaeological Museum, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr.

11.08 - 11.09 » Ancient Croatian Heritage in a New Light This contemporary multimedia exhibition raises the bar for Croatian cultural tourism with something fresh and new by focusing on the extremely valuable and rich Croatian cultural heritage. A great number of pre-Romanesque zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On and early Romanesque monuments typical for the Zadar region will be on display, proving that Zadar is a real jewel in Croatian history with a rich, powerful and fascinating heritage that is thousands of years old.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.amzd.hr.

20.09 - 20.10 » Hellenistic Mouldmade Pottery from Siculi History buffs and archaeological devotees can venture on a journey back to a time between the 2nd and 5th centuries AD. The Museum of Ancient Glass in Zadar is exhibiting the lengthy study of Hellenistic relief ceramics found at the excavation site of ‘Siculi’, located near to our Kaštela Bay. The ceramics are specific for their mould-making, reliefs and rich motives. Most of the images depict animals and plants associated with the cult of the god ‘Dionysius’ as well as other geometric motifs. Not to be missed!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog od‑ bora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

Photo by Dino Ninkovic, Papaya Archives

Special Events 13.06 - 12.09 » Traditional Klape Evenings One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Wednesday evening in the Zadar city centre streets.Qwww.zadar.travel.

Photo by Dino Ninkovic, Hideout Archives

22.06 - 14.09 » Feštice Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda – white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.

Qwww.zadar.travel. Every Friday.

28.06 - 02.08 » The 24th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Croatian Na‑ tional Theatre, Široka ulica 8, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

04.07 - 09.08 » The 58th Musical Evenings in St Donat If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you.

The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Millenium Jump Archives

Gangbé Brass Band, Zadar Croatian National Theatre Archives

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What’s On

Black Coffee, Novigrad Tourist Board Archives

jazz & blues 25.07 - 27.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues Festival With the summer heat shining at day, the tunes and rhythms at this festival ensure that the evening temperatures stay mildly high too. The repertoire list is always updating therefore it is best to visit www.zadar.travel for all the latest information of who is playing and when! Previous artists have included Brian Auger’s Oblivion Express, Neal Black and The Healers, Camille Thurman Music Page & the MMT Quartet, Fred Wesley & the New JBs, and Saskia Laroo just to name a few.Qwww.zadar.travel.

08.08 » Black Coffee Black Coffee is a famous award winning Split jazz band formed in 1993 that has graced many musical stages in Croatia and abroad. Their recordings have included popular Croatian artists such as Gibonni and Oliver Dragojević as well as Daniele de Bonaventura, Robin Browne and Georgie Fame. Once again, they will perform live in Novigrad as they fuse jazz with a touch of Dalmatian!QNovigrad, www. novigrad-dalmacija.hr. artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Various locations across city.Qwww.donat-festival.com.

05.07 » An evening of Italian Canzone and Evergreens Sticking to the Adriatic, our Italian neighbours have given the world many beautiful sounds of canzone style music and this will be an evening dedicated to this melodic and harmonious genre. It features Croatian singer and actor, most famous for his roles in musicals and wonderful tenor Đani Stipaničev, accompanied by mezzo-soprano Nera Gojanović and Gordana Pavić on piano.QSaint Jerome Monastery, Ugljan, www. ugljan.hr.

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Photo by Max Juhasz, Friends of the Sea - Like In the Old Days

26.07 - 28.07 » Full Moon Festival On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Pe‑ tra Krešimira IV, www.zadar.travel.

31.07 - 17.08 » Pag Art Festival The island of Pag along with its citizens and guests will zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On FOOD & Drink 30.06 » A feast of mussels in Novigrad Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle. Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These days, any connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.

QNovigrad, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr.

14.07 - 15.07 » Šokolijada For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!QNin, www.nin.hr.

03.08 » The Festival of Salt The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to those used today, processes and the panning of salt from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be seen.QThe Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, www. solananin.hr.

be able to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this uplifting festival which has bought so much intrigue and delight to all attendees over the years. Musicians from Croatia, the Czech Republic, Slovenia and France will visit towns, churches, squares and halls to perform a plethora of orchestral, solo and chamber music concerts.QStari Grad Pag, Pag island, 30 - 50kn, www.facebook.com/pagart‑ festival.

01.08 21:00 » Gathering of Dalmatian klapa Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

06.09 - 08.09 » Zadar Craft Beer Festival 2018 If beer brings cheer, then bring it on! For the fourth year running, Zadar is hosting this fabulous festival with a jam packed programme to ensure not a dull moment is to be had. Join in on the three days of fun, music and plentiful craft beers available as there has been a boom in Croatia and abroad in the ‘craftsmanship of beer’. Be part of the movement!QA/ B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. 13.09 - 14.09 » Fig Festival If olives are the vegetable of Dalmatia, then figs are the fruits of Dalmatia! That being said, having an entire festival dedicated to this devoured fruit is no exaggeration. Sample dishes you’d never dream of with figs. By the end of this, you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same light again!Qwww.zadar.travel.

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What’s On authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual fest draws the finest male/female klape performers from Zadar and its surroundings which you simply need to hear, to believe!QCedulin Palace Atrium, Ulaz Nova vrata, www.zadar.travel.

Six Salon Stories, Rector’s Palace Archives

Musical evenings in St Donat, Photo by Željko Karavida, Concert Office Zadar Archives

Monoplay Festival Archives

02.08 21:00 » Imperial Russian Ballet Carmen & Bolero Early August turns majestic with an amazing evening of ballet up for grabs. The timeless story Carmen has all the elements of a dramatic love epic with such classical orchestral tunes that have become timeless. And then Bolero with its enchanting folk motifs of the southern regions of Spain and Africa is sure to shine at the Roman Forum that evening. QB‑3, City Forum, www.zadar. travel.

04.08 » Millenium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.zadar.travel.

12.08 » Festival of Sand The idyllic town of Nin is known for its soft beautiful sandy beaches which makes it home to this rather unique event.

Two particular beaches (Kraljičina and Ždrijac) are ready for action and art in combo. Sculptures of sand will be made by mentors and tourists of all ages alike, so get ready to shovel, carve, mix and mould in putting together your very own sandy creations.QŽdrijac and Kraljičina Beach, Nin, www.nin.hr.

13.08 21:00 » Perpetuum Jazzile This Slovenian vocal orchestra combines powerful rhythms, rich harmonies and an unparalleled creativity to their show. With no instruments on stage, their voices combine to produce the music and tunes to original and hit songs. Their repertoire is a special mixture of pop, jazz, gospel, blues, Brazilian bossa nova, disco and funk. The grace of the human voice!

QB‑3, City Forum, www.zadar.travel.

14.08 21:00 » Nina Badrić Come watch Nina Badrić live on stage this summer. She’s a Croatian pop star who has been singing since the early 90’s. Enjoy listening to her new album, and popular songs.

QB‑3, City Forum, www.zadar.travel.

Musical evenings in St Donat, Concert Office Zadar Archives

16 Zadar In Your Pocket

20.08 - 24.08 » Monopoly Festival – Contemporary Dance Festival The jubilee 10th edition of the Monopoly Festival, one of the most important dance festivals in Croatia, will be celebrated at the Zadar Puppet Theatre and zadar.inyourpocket.com

What’s On will this year host some of Europe’s most renowned dancers and choreographers such as Xavier La Roy, Sanna Myllylahti, Magdalena Reiter, Matija Ferlin and many others. Visitors will be able to relax at Zadar’s greenest oasis Monoaza, a specially designed place for artistic gatherings and exhibitions in St. Dominic’s Church. The programme also includes a pre-warm up educational platform for performers called STREAM Zadar which will be held between August 6 and 19. QD‑3, Zadar Puppet Theatre, Sokolska 1, www. monoplay.eu.

Sport 04.07 - 25.08 » VAK’’AN’’ZA 31% Sport & Music Fiestival Welcome to this Water-Polo Amateur Cup which brings this historical Olympic Sport to the people, this much sought after tournament is open to everyone and anyone; so be brave, form a team and register. Entertainment wise, the Zadar waterfront will host various bands and artists.

QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.vakanza-zd.com.

06.07 » Basket Tour Its 3x3 basketball whether the winner takes it all. The national tournament is held over 12 rounds in 12 cities with the winners able to play off for the European Championships. Zadar is on the calendar for July 06 and the FIBA WORLD TOUR play off will be at the City Galleria. This is dynamic basketball with the additional three point comp, dunking contest and more.QN‑5, City Galleria, Murvička 1, www.basket-tour.com.

05.08 » The 46th traditional swimming marathon Preko-Zadar Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riviera (Ugljan Island), you can catch the ships which leave for Preko at 07:30 as the event starts at 09:00. By 10:00 the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools.

Fun and fitness for all.Qwww.pkzadar.hr.

18.08 » Jadran Rowing Duel Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy.QJa‑ zine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

20.09 - 23.09 » Zadar Basketball Tournament In its fifth edition, the Zadar Basketball Tournament (ZDBT) will again attract some of Europe’s best basketball teams including four national champions and five participants from the Euroleague. This sporting event is also known as one of the strongest prep tournaments in Europe and will this year feature teams such as Fenerbahce, CSKA Moscow, Brose Bamberg, Panathinaikos, Khimki and Bayern Munich.

Qwww.zdbt.info. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Sonus, Photo by Goxmag, Papaya Archives

Festivals 25.06 - 29.06 » Hideout Festival The 8th edition of this electronic summer party is set to deliver over 100 headline acts and underground DJs that will perform across several open-air stages.

The festival is located in Novalja and by the seaside with themed boat parties adding another dimension to revelers. A mixture of everything from house and techno to bass and grime will alarm the decibels. This year’s line-up includes AJ Tracey, Andy C, Apollonia, Disciples, Dusky and multitudes more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag island, www.hideoutfestival.com.

10.07 - 12.07 » Fresh Island Festival Greetings and welcome to one of Europe’s leading Hip-Hop and Urban music festivals which is set on the island of Pag. Mid July sees three mega clubs on Zrće beach transform with DJ’s, MC’s, boat and pool parties representing the absolute best in HipHop, R&B and Grime. Hear the likes of Wiz Khalifa, PARTYNEXTDOOR, Vince Staples, J Hus, GoldLink, Lil Pump and more. QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.fresh-island.org.

12.08 - 16.08 » Barrakud Never resting on their laurels, organisers have a special reason to go the extra mile this yearl. Their classic motto of ‘Are you all ready to rave the world again, continues? Hear the music of Paul Kalkbrenner, Claptone, Ben Klock, Marcel Dettmann and more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.barrakud.com.

19.08 - 23.08 » Sonus Festival The Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya Nightclubs open their doors to an international audience each year for the Sonus Festival. For five days and five nights party goers can hear the best in the electronic underground scene across the Zrće Beach. Featured artists include Adam Bever, Binh, Loco Dice, Sonja Moonear and many more to come.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.sonus-festival.com.

Summer 2018

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Restaurants

Corte Vino & More Archives

Croatian These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.

2Ribara A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, www.2ribara.com/zadar/en/. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 150kn). P­A­B­X 4 kantuna This informal modern restaurant and pizzeria located on an atmospheric square reopened in 2017 and has proven to be a hit. It serves everything from salads, bruschettas, pastas and risottos to fish and a particularly imaginative offering of grilled meats. The dessert menu is especially popular with guests. Wood-fired oven pizza is a must.

QD‑3, Varoška 1, tel. (+385-) 091 313 53 82, www. restaurant4kantuna.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 175kn). J­B ­A 18 Zadar In Your Pocket

Gourmet Kalelarga Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 122kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W Bon Appetit A lovely modern interior with a rustic/pastel feel that oozes comfort! Bon Appetit is all about the food and wine on offer and that means lots of Dalmatian and Mediterranean tradition with modern interpretations. Open day and night, visitors can pop in for refreshments or for a meal.

Fish, meat and dessert varieties are oh so popular here as well as top quality wine.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 33 55 50, www.restaurant-zadar.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. From June Open 12:00 - 23:30. (89 170kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Bruschetta The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, www.bruschetta.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W Corte Vino & More Opened in June 2017, this restaurant in a small boutique hotel is delighting guests with perfect food, perfect surroundings and personal attention to detail. The food is faithful to local cuisine but with a twist, masterfully executed. The wine list is also fabulous. The restaurant is open from 07:30, the garden is a great spot for a sunshine breakfast close to the Sea Organ.QA‑3, Braće Bersa 2, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 57, www.almayer.hr. Closed Sun, Open 07:30-11:30, 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:30. (80-190kn).

B­W ­i ­A Groppo Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (75 200kn). P­i ­J­A­6­B­S­W Harbor Cookhouse & Club Another gem restaurant off the city port which is newly decked with old ship and submarine parts! The cuisine is a fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian with ingredients from local producers. Dishes such as Octopus with cream of Kalamata olives or Chicken sliced marmalade la Parmigiana are top sellers. Desserts are equally as good!

This combined restaurant/lounge bar also has live performances and DJs for entertainment.QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30 15 20, www.harbor.hr.

Open 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 200kn). P­i ­A­E­G­B­ X­W

matinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. malo-misto.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 170kn).

P­A­G­B­X­W Pet Bunara This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad.

Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat! QD‑3, Strati‑ co ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, www.petbunara.com.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 160kn). P­A­6­G­B­S­W Proto Food&More Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the all-round experience offered. Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at reasonable prices.

Open from sunrise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here. Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31. Open 12:00-16:00, 18:00 - 00:00. From June Open 17:00-00:00. (65-110kn).

P­i ­T­J­A­G­B­K­S­W

Kaštel Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.

If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB‑2, Bedemi za‑ darskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, www.hotelbastion.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 190kn). P­i ­A­ L­G­B­X­W Malo misto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2018

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Restaurants Trattoria Canzona Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­ G­B­X­W

Italian Pašta & Svašta This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.

QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www.pastasvasta.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (35 - 120kn).

P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Salsa Rossa Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­W

Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Photo by Peter Skrlep, Hotel Bastion Archives

Bistro Pjat Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediterranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best restaurant/tavern in the city. With daily specials and an enticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.

QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (75 - 155kn).

Rafaelo On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi.

Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.

QH‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180kn). P­A ­L ­G ­B­ X­S ­W

Photo by Dean Dubokovič, Boškinac Pag Archives

20 Zadar In Your Pocket

Skoblar Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.

QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­6 ­G­ B­X ­S ­W Stomorica Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today, it’s a beautiful place to eat out: still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing nights on Friday evening. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC‑3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 70kn). P­T ­J ­N ­G­ B­X ­S ­W Zadar - Jadera A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (40 - 100kn).

P­J­A­G­B­X­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Tips for Hungry Travelers Baškotin A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe.

At 60 kunas per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!

What’s so salty…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

Five Wells Restaurant Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Five Wells Restaurant.

The island of Ist, ist good!

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majoline!

Summer 2018

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Restaurants Lamb

Seafood

The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Foša One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00 - 01:00.

(130 - 250kn). P­J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W

Sabunjar Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.

Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Studenac and Getro.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Open 07:00 - 22:00. From June Open 07:00 - 23:00. (33 - 120kn).

P­A­L­G­B­X­W Tamaris A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www.tamariszadar.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­ 6­U­L­G­B­X­W Taste of Italy in the heart of the old center.

Try delicous pizzas made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties.

Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on romantic terrace.

Niko Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko.hr. Open 12:30 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (90 - 190kn). P­A­6­L­G­S­W Taverna Diklo A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s best to book in advance for prime positioning.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn). P­A ­ L­G ­B ­S ­W

Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy.

Mamma Mia Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www.mammamia. fullbusiness.com/. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon. (50 180kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W Šime A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.

QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

(35 - 135kn). P­6­L­N­G­B­X­S­W

22 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties.QTrg Ruševac 18, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 44 32, www.griblja. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (69 - 149kn). A­P­G­B Kaleta Kaleta means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food – try their Pašticada – Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocchi – order a day in advance.QTrg 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 182 34 37. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T ­A ­U ­L­ E­G ­B ­S ­W

Tri bunara This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 07:30 - 22:30.

From June Open 08:30 - 23:30. (37 - 72kn). P­i ­T­J­ 6­N­G­B­X­S­W

Kraljevski Vinogradi Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely specializes in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia — Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.There’s no doubt you will leave their tasting room and tavern with an unforgettable experience!QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, www.kraljevskivinogradi.hr/en/. Open 13:00 - 24:00.

Out of town Boškinac This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines.

Pricey but worthy!QŠkopaljska ulica 220, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 35 00, www.boskinac.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (145 - 290kn). P­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G­ B­X ­W Griblja Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a block facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2018

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Restaurants The First Lady of the AdriaticS

Kod Guste A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink).

QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03. Open 16:00 - 23:00. (65 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­W Konoba Pece We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03. Open 16:00 24:00. (80 - 350kn). P­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W

KORNAT

FINE DINING RESTAURANT Liburnska obala 6

24 Zadar In Your Pocket

The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine.

A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea.

They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market for 10kn.

A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine.

When the festa is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold in a paté or a salad.

Pineta Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar.

Two years ago the restaurant was redesigned to better accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile for their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and fish, Pineta has created family-friendly weekend menus at affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all manner of festivities.QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12, www.pineta.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 13:00 - 24:00. (75 - 150kn). P­T ­A ­6 ­L ­G­ B­X ­W Portus Beach Club & Restaurant The newest sensation on Croatia’s shoreline is the Portus Beach Club, a luxurious venue comprising of two restaurants; a bar and kids play area. The complex is central to one of the best marinas on the Adriatic which has also been awarded with the prestigious Blue Flag. There are deck chairs and parasols for sunbathing on the pontoons and the venue oozes in style and class!QMarina Dalmaci‑ ja, Bibinje - Sukošan 1, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 20 03 50, www.d-marin.com. Open 07:30 - 00:30. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

Cherries, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari – “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was. In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home.

However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities.

Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious.

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Local Flavour Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta.

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo – with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada – beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol – bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

A speciality from this region is vara – chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.

Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.

Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.

Zadar Excursions Archives

Zadar Market Tour and Cooking Class Being a harbour city, the trading of merchants with locals has always enriched the local cuisine, especially the herbs and spices that had come from different parts of the world. And when you consider the sheer location of Zadar, a bustling city pocketed along the Adriatic with islands close by and the hinterland in the background filled with rich fertile soil, for centuries recipes had been created, mastered and handed down from generation to generation. Now this is your chance to get a feel of being a real ‘Zadranin’ for a day by going on a culinary journey where you get to create your own lunch or dinner recipe. By booking your place on this culinary journey, the daily schedule includes; coffee at cafe Lovre, a licensed guide, shopping for fresh ingredients from the market needed for preparation of a traditional lunch, food sampling at the local market, a welcome drink, tip top chef’s assistance and hints in the kitchen, a glass of wine, and of course the meal you prepare for yourself. A minimum of 2 through to 18 people can attend.The price is 442 kn all inclusive! For more information write to info@ zadarexcursions.com or call (+385-23) 33 72 94. Bon apetit! Q www.zadarcookingclass.com 26 Zadar In Your Pocket

Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long.

You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo – a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

Food Market City Market (Pijaca) In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel.

Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.QC‑2, Pod Bedemom bb.

Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine Maraschino liqueur Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.

Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.

If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Samphire At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum).

Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

Wine The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of

Sardines, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Blackberries, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Local Flavour the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years.

The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand.

A Feast of Mussels in Novigrad, Novigrad Tourist Board Archives

Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.

Zadar Excursions Archives

Apricots, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

28 Zadar In Your Pocket

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.

Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices – around 30-35kn. Look out also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Art kavana If you appreciate excellent, imaginative cakes you really must call into this cake shop. The range is frequently refreshed with new creations to suit the season, there are macarons… the problem is deciding what to choose.

Cakes are freshly made and beautifully presented. Coffee and cake, that most indulgent of rituals. QE‑2, Bartola Kašića 1, tel. (+385-23) 40 08 00. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

A­B­W­G­P Callegro The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, www.callegro.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

July, August Open 07:00 - 00:00. P­N­G­B­X­W Coffee & Cake Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few can resist. Choose to dine in or soak up the sun with seating available outdoors.QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vran‑ janina 14, tel. (+385-) 091 302 81 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. J­G­B­X­W Cogito Coffee Shop Creating top quality coffee and all that is deemed ritual about coffee! Cogito is new on the block with its home in Zagreb. This is their second store and they have brought their winning concept to Zadar with cocktails, craft beers, Photoand

by Višnja Arambašić teas natural juices as added refreshments to soak up that summer sizzle.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III B, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 15:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. P­J­B­S­W Danica A sparkling modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of their tasty homemade cakes and pastries made on site. Opposite the National Theatre. QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www.restorani-zadar.hr.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B Donat Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB‑3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29/(+385-) 098 917 51 00, www.donatice.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. July - August 15th Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W

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Calimero Archives

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Coffee & Cakes Lovre The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:00 01:00. P­6­N­G­B­X­W Porthos Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too.QO‑6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Open 07:00 - 00:00. P­N­G­B­X­W Calimero Archives

Bartola Kašića 1, 23000 Zadar 091 / 123-1250 artkavana.zadar@gmail.com 07:00 - 23:00h Forum A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

P­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Guam Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33 05. Open 7:30- 00:00. From June Open 07:30 01:30. P­N ­B ­X ­W Illy Concept Bar New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. Open 07:00 - 00:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 02:00. P­T­B­X­W

facebook.com/ zadarinyourpocket twitter.com/ inyourpocket 30 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Aquarius Archives

On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar's nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you'll find an unpretentious mix of people.

While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar's sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is.

Clubs Podroom Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!

Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QE‑2, Obala kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-) 099 749 84 51, www.podroom.club. Fri, Sat 01:00 - 06:00.

P­J­A­E­G­W Svarog Bar More of a nightclub than a bar, Svarog is on the stoneflagged Trg pet bunara and is one of the most popular nightspots in Zadar. The music is mainly R’n’B with a smattering of house. Very busy at weekends.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara, tel. (+385-) 095 775 30 09. Open 20:00-06:00. J­B

Cocktail bars Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, by you canArambašić enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk.

Photo Višnja Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.

QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, www.bamboozadar. com. Open 07:00 - 01:00. T­6­N­G­B­X­W Mango Day & Night Club This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­6­L­N­B­X­W

Hangin’ out Arkada A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 095 371 47 38. Open 07:00 00:00. B­W Arsenal During the summer season Arsenal works as event venue with offer of different concerts of famous bands or musicians.QB‑2, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 33/ (+385-) 099 210 33 09, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. P­T­J­E­N­B­K­W Backstage Bar Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:00 23:00. P­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W Summer 2018

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Nightlife

Photo by Dino Ninkovic, Papaya Archives

Hype Bar Newly opened and renovated in Spring 2018, Hype Bar (formerly Kocka) is a welcome addition to the Zadar club scene, with a music policy covering R’n’B, house, 80s, 90s, Walkman parties and more. The club is over 23s only, a dress code applies and the interior is seriously stylish, all supporting the aim to offer a more sophisticated experience for older clubbers. Hype Bar is also a comfortable spot for coffees and drinks during the day.QE‑2, Obala Kneza Branimira 6A. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Thu-Sat 08:00 - 04:30. From June Open 08:00 - 04:30. P­X­W Kult In the very heart of Zadar this café by day and bar by night is a popular spot for students. There are DJ nights, karaoke nights, big screens for sports… Fun, friendly and lively. Good cocktails too!QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 438 99 63. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. P­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W

Kalypso Archives

La Bodega Zadar Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.

QC‑3, Kalelarga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, www.labodega.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P­i ­T­ J­A ­G ­B ­X ­W LLoyd One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB‑3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N ­G­ B­X ­W

Photo by Tim Ertl, The Garden Club Zadar Archives

Cafe Gallery Gina Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 01:30. P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Famous Bar Open from morning till night, ‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said beer?

Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, www.famous.adria-bars.hr. Open 08:00 - 00:00. From June Open 08:00 - 01:30. T­A­6­L­ G­B­X­W 32 Zadar In Your Pocket

Q Bar A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. P­T­N­G­B­X­W Rio Bar Walking distance from the town’s famous Sea Organ, this is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. Refurbished in 2014, ‘Rio Bar’ is truly unique as its main focus is on the 70s era; the sounds of rock, blues and disco echo inside its walls and on the cocktail bar terrace both on weekdays and weekends. The bar’s slogan; ‘Where the funky generation meets’ probably describes it well since it has been a popular meeting place since 1988. So come and feel funky any time!QD‑4, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 73 60. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 01:00.

From June Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Teatro Bar A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with a glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with famous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be or not to be’, this is the place to be…QD-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 02:00. P­N­B­X­W Toni On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­6­N­G­B­X­W Vinyl bar With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till the late hours.QB‑1, Obala kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 091 321 08 80. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P­T­ 6­N­G­B­X­W Yachting Bar A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts, and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. P­N­B­X­W

Lounge bars Ledana Lounge bar Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kralji‑ ce Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 098 630 760, www. ledana.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­A­6­B­X­W The Garden Lounge Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, www.thegarden.hr/the-gardenlounge. Open 10:00 - 01:30. J­A­6­U­B­X­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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DAY AND NIGHT BAR | dj’s | club music OPEN AIR TERRACE best cocktails in the city info & reservationS: +385 99 409 8053

ADDRESS: ruđera boškovića 4, zadar

working hours: 08:00 - 04:30

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info & reservationS: +385 99 409 8053 ADDRESS: Obala kneza Branimira 6A, zadar

Food in our street bar is traditional and creative and each day we make it with passion and a smile!

Come. Sit. Eat. Enjoy!

ADDRESS: Knezova Posedarskih 1, zadar

34 Zadar In Your Pocket

Out of town Aquarius If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped – cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38, www. aquarius.hr/zrce. Open 09:00 - 06:00. A­6 ­L ­B­ K­C ­W Beach Club Kalypso The crazy late 80s gave birth to what was to become the first Croatian beach club - Kalypso, the pioneer of the renowned Zrće club scene. The 2015 renovation made it an even more exclusive and attractive club, so this year it was ranked 33th on the list of the top 100 best clubs in the world according to Top DJ Mag.QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 098 27 71 46, www.kalypso-zrce.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, 22:00 06:00. A­6 ­L ­E ­B ­X ­C ­W Noa Beach Club Party Armageddon on Zrće, Croatia’s most famous party beach! On this long strip of fine shingle fringing a clear turquoise sea, Noa Beach Club is one of the venues that make Novalja on Pag island Croatia’s party central. When you don’t know what’s hotter, the weather, the tunes or the punters, take the plunge into one of the saltwater swimming pool or grab a drink from one of 11 bars! Serious fun.QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 928 01 23, www.noa-beach.com. W­L ­B ­C Papaya Clubbers and party goers, head on down to Papaya Club which hosts two parties per day! Dance under the sun at their pool parties or under the stars to the sounds of the best world DJs and experience various genre festivals at their night parties. This open air beach club is also famous for its spectacular production, entertainment shows, go-go dancers, state of the art sound, VIP service and more. The club is situated directly on Zrce beach which makes it the perfect summer getaway.

So come on down for a few days to remember!QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 561 51 03, www.papaya.com.hr. Open 15:00 - 20:00, 22:00 06:00. A­B ­X ­C ­W Saturnus A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), within the Zaton Holiday Resort, with DJ parties and animation shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, www. zaton.hr. Open Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.

P­L ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Foša, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

City Lodge (Gradska loža) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.

With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 18 - September 1 Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20/10kn. J City Sentinel (Gradska straža) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/10kn.

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities. On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. QC/D‑ 2.

mali arsenal Once a part of the city fortress built in the 15th century, Mali Arsenal has recently reopened in its restored original form but with a changed interior which is now a high-tech Multimedia Centre. Visitors can learn about Zadar’s fortifications through play and exploration across four different levels. The first level is all about ambiance and 3D visualisation. The second level uses games and motion sensors and the third level is educationally based and includes detection and research using interactive modules on the multitouch screen. The fourth level encourages visitors to discover the history of 15 places in the old city centre via a mobile application - a virtual guide through Zadar fortifications. The visitor becomes a researcher and once they complete all the tasks, they can share their social networking accomplishments. www. nmz.hr. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00.

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Sightseeing St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.

Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.

QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.

QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13. Open 09:00 - 19:00. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J The Riva Riva is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archaeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes 36 Zadar In Your Pocket

sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire.

The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful.

Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.

Archaeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition.

QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www. amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 22:00. Admission 30kn. J Gallery of Arts (Galerija umjetnina) A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, Wed 15:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. From June 15 Open 18:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn.

Museum of Illusions The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other.

You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzej iluzija.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 60/40kn and for families 150kn.

National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History Department, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s palace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July, August Open 09:00 20:00. Admission 20/10kn. J The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.

Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30/10kn.

Churches Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s.

The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one deco38 Zadar In Your Pocket

explore the world of illusions When you look at optical illusions, you may think that you are seeing things like moving objects that are standing still, curved lines that are actually straight or images that are slowly disappearing.

You think that your eyes are playing tricks on you but your perception of an illusion has more to do with how your brain works and less to do with the optics of your eye. Optical illusions can use colour, light and different patterns to create images that can be deceptive or misleading to our brain.

Information gathered by the eye is processed by the brain, creating a perception that doesn’t match the true image.

Join us in the world of illusions. With over 70 exhibits, the Museum of Illusions is a place where you can learn, explore and test your skills with friends and family.

With optical illusions, Einstein’s hollow face illusion, holograms and many more exhibits you’ll see that your eyes are playing tricks on you.

Try the chair illusion and learn more about the laws of perception, or step into the anti-gravity room and learn more about the laws of physics. Try to find the end of the bottomless pit, get lost in the room full of mirrors and if you are up to it, go for a walk on the ceiling or experience how it feels to be very small or a giant.

Visit the Museum of Illusions and learn more about how your brain works and test your perception and skills in this fascinating and unique world of illusions where nothing is what it appears to be. rated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.QB‑3.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.

Franje Asiškog) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the proteczadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing tion of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, www. svetifrane.org/. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 2€.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara.

Greeting to the Sun Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.

Statue of Petar Zoranić On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in “Planine” (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time – a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

Statue of Špiro Brusina The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, 40 Zadar In Your Pocket

and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara.

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR‑3.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Palaces Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C ‑3.

Palace Grisogono - Vovo (Palača Grisogono - Vovo) Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.QD‑3.

Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula. Over the centuries the palace has experienced many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its foundations had revealed parts of the zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers.

Historically, three restructured projects have taken place; in the 16th century, 19th century and in the 21st century.

The latter was due to its bombing during the Homeland War where it was hit by eight large calibre missiles, causing heavy destruction and damaging the statics of the building. Now and as of recent, the palace has been reconstructed thanks to EU funding and is now a modern equipped cultural complex. This new tourist attraction unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls, and representative halls decorated and conserved in different historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square.

Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE‑3.

Religious collection The city of Zadar has four patron saints, when you’ve got a group like that watching over you you’d better believe that the city’s going to have some pretty intricate religious artifacts and artwork. They’ve got everything from martyr’s bones and one of the only three circular churches in the world to bragging rights for hosting a visit from the late Pope John Paul II. Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Summer 2018

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Bearing in mind how often Dalmatia has been ravaged by warfare, it’s no surprise that so much of the region’s architectural heritage is of a military nature. Leaving a particularly heavy stamp on the region’s identity was the Venetian Republic, which ruled over much of Dalmatia from 1420 and 1797 and left more than just church belfries and town halls in its wake. The sixteenth century in particular was a period of prolific fortress building, the most outstanding examples of which were placed in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2017. Under the title “Venetian Works of Defence” UNESCO grouped together several military masterpieces of the epoch, two of which are in Dalmatia – the city walls of Zadar and the St Nicholas’s Fortress in Šibenik. It was in the sixteenth century that fortress architecture underwent significant changes, thanks in large part to the increasing use of artillery by both attackers and defenders. Cities had to be defended by walls and bastions that were resistant to cannon balls and which also afforded plenty of fire positions for the defenders’ guns. Bastions in particular were becoming ever more complex, their starshaped jutting geometry surrounded by complex earthworks in order to make them more resistant to storming tactics. Military engineering, just like cathedral building or palace design, was becoming an art form. Fortress construction was spurred on by the emergence of new dangers. Venice’s possessions in Dalmatia were increasingly under threat from the Ottoman Empire, which occupied the hinterland of both Zadar and Šibenik in the 1520s and rendered both cities exceedingly vulnerable to attack.

The man in charge of shoring up the Venetian Empire’s defenses was Michele Sanmicheli (1484-1559), the republic’s chief engineer and a prolific designer of public buildings, palaces and churches throughout northern Italy. The 1530s were an extraordinarily busy decade for Sanmicheli, who was supervising fortress construction in Verona and the Venetian Lido as well as travelling to the Adriatic and drawing up plans for Zadar and Šibenik. His work in Zadar

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Holding the Fort: UNESCO lists Dalmatia’s castles

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Venetian Works of Defence between 16th and 17th centuries: Stato da Terra – western Stato da Mar inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2017

begun in 1537, with the demolition of whole residential districts to make way for the new walls, which stretched for some 3km round the peninsula-bound city centre. Bolstering Zadar’s defences to the southeast were massive new landward-facing bastions such as the Grimani bastion, which rises above Trg pet bunara and now holds a small park. Sanmicheli’s masterpiece was the Land Gate (PortaTerraferma), built in 1543 in the form of a triumphal arch, decorated with reliefs of the city’s patron Saint Krševan and the lion of St Mark. Development of Zadar’s fortifications continued throughout the sixteenth century: the huge Forte bastion on the eastern side of town (now Vladimir Nazor Park) was added in 1567, while a succession of ornamental gates were built on the northern side of city in the decades that followed. All of the above now fall under UNESCO protection, with the addition of Trg pet bunara (“Five Wells’ Square”), where a huge cistern was built to provide drinking water during times of siege. At the same time as Zadar Sanmicheli was also working in Šibenik where, with the help of his nephew Giangirolamo, he designed one of the most graceful, iconic and awe-inspiring sea fortresses of all time. Named after a Benedictine monastery that was demolished to make way for it, St Nicholas’s Fortress rises magisterially from an island at the mouth of St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that controls access to Šibenik’s port. Joined to terra firma by a causeway, the remarkably well-preserved fortress is a grandiose tribute to the era in which it was built, with gun positions looking out towards the Adriatic and a broad sweeping staircase burrowing down towards a complex of vaulted chambers below. The fortress’s inclusion on the UNESCO list will enable Šibenik to embark on the next stage of its development plans, renovating not just the fortress itself but also improving access, cleaning up nearby beaches, and building a visitors’ centre in a former Yugoslav Army barracks.

Photo by Davor Strenja, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:30, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. The Monastery Museum of St. Mihovil’s, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca) There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Photo by Stipe Surac, The Nin Salt Works Archives

Zadar Surroundings don’t make mistake of missing some of these great places in zadar’s surrounding areas

Zadar Surroundings North of Zadar Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

Nin The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments. Some of the archaeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday.

The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times.

Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mothernature that provides the perfect getaway.

Nin Tourist Board QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).

QIlirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26 40 21, www.solananin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Admission 35 - 65kn. A

Novigrad Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.

Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.

Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.

During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is

ASSERIA At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long.

Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

QBenkovac, www.tz-benkovac.hr.

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Zadar Surroundings another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.

The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.

Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

Tourist Office of the Municipality of Novigrad QTrg kralja Tomislava 1, Novigrad, tel. (+385-23) 37 50 51, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr. Open 08:00-15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. July, August Open 08:00-15:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun.

Zaton This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the

BIKING Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring.

One of the oldest cycling route is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly welldeveloped tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sightseeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. For more info call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, www.zadar.hr.

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dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.

The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

Zaton Tourist Board QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, www.zaton-zd.hr. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, Au‑ gust Open 07:00 - 21:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Zaton Holiday Resort QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, www.zaton.hr.

South of Zadar South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Biograd n/m and municipalities like Pakoštane, where extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake in its present lively and romantic Riviera.

Biograd n/m The small but lively town of Biograd n/m was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic – travelling throughout their territories between their power bases – often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states.

Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

Fortica, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

family fun Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayaking…)

Adventure Park Zadar Adventure and fun for everyone with paintball, zipline and kids’ playground.QKožinska cesta 108, Kožino, tel. (+385-) 098 38 83 88, www.adventurepark.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. N Dalmatia Aquapark Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, Šibenik, tel. (+38522) 36 10 01, www.aquapark-dalmatia.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 110/80kn. No admission for kids 0-3 years old.

Konjički centar Libertas Located within the Zaton Resort, trail riding is offered which is customised to the varying degrees of knowledge and skills of participants. The littlies are never forgotten with pony rides available too. Take the amazing Zaton ‘beach tour’ on horseback. Do note, for those who are not staying at the resort but wish to go horse-riding, you will need to pay a 200kn entry fee to enter the resort itself and when you get to the Libertas Horse Centre, you will receive a refund voucher where you will get your money back at the resort entry.QDražnikova 76 t, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, www. horse-center-libertas.hr. From May 15 - Septem‑ ber 30 Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

Fun Park biograd by mirnovec One of the newest attractions to this part of Croatia is the opening of this Gardaland style Adventure Park in Biograd na Moru. Based on other famous world entertainment centres, patrons will be able to enjoy 24 attractions divided into three areas: Pirate City, Wild West and the Universe. Each thematic park is jammed with entertainment games, hospitality, souvenirs, events and concerts. Perfect for a day out!QX Jankolovački put 9, Biograd n/m, www.funparkbiograd.com.

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coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 – the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head – this time, by treaty.

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd. com. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn.

Biograd n/m is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay.

Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town.

Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities.

The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd n/m is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Biograd n/m Tourist Board QTrg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/ (+385-23) 38 53 82, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Open 07:00 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

Šolta Tourist Board Archives

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Zadar Surroundings Dugi otok Tourist Board QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr. May Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat and Sun. June Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Ist & Molat

Maslenica bridge, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.

Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Zadar Tourist Board Office Qtel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

Iž

The Nin Salt Works Archives

This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Zadar Tourist Board office QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Pag Marina Kornati Archives

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Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westzadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings erns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean.

But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.

Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery. But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular.

Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds.

Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end.

You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Pag Tourist Information Centre QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, www. tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Dugi otok cove, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

Photo by Velid Jakupović, Nature Park Telašćica Archives

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Zadar Surroundings

A view of the part of Kraljica’s beach and the beach Ždrijac, Photo by Velid Jakupović, Nin Tourist Board Archives

Pašman

Rava

You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd n/m to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (www.fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž and Dugi Otok.

Shaped like a figure of 8 with two large bays, it has two tiny settlements, about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather good restaurant, small coves suitable for swimming and a limited amount of private accommodation. If your aim is to escape far from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may well be for you.

Tkon Tourist Board QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzotkon.hr. May Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat and Sun. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pašman Tourist Board QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr.

Open 08:00 - 12:00, Closed Sat, Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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Zadar Tourist Board Office QRava, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball.

Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff.

Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, superclean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Kukljica Tourist Board QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www. kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat and Sun. June Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. From June 25 August 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Preko Tourist Board QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www. preko.hr. Open 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Silba Tourist Board QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr. From June Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Ugljan

Monastery of St Jeronimas and beach Mostir, Ugljan Tourist Board Archives

That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Vransko jezero Nature Park Viewpoint, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

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Nature Getaways ers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

The Alan Shepherds’ Huts, Lubenovac, The Northern Velebit National Park Archives

The Underground Town of Paklenica Beneath the breath-taking natural phenomena of the Paklenica Canyon which is home to hikers, mountain climbers and bush walkers, a bunker from the 1950s is still in the renovation phase but is open to the public. At a depth of 80 meters, visitors can a face the man made rock climbing wall, watch some multimedia screens on tying knots, rock climbing and the park’s history, as well as see the work park rangers and rescue do before continuing on with their hiking journey. Open 08:00 - 15:30. Admission free. QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+38523) 36 91 55, www.np-paklenica.hr. Open 06:00 - 20:30.

Ticket 40 - 60/20 - 30kn.

Cerovac Caves (Cerovačke špilje, Velebit Nature Park) Declared as a geo-morphological natural monument, the Cerovac Caves are one of the most famous caves in Croatia. The entire complex consists of three caves (Upper, Lower and Central) which run approx. 7km in length. Also, they are one of the largest cave bear findings in Croatia which explains the given names such as the Bear Trench and Bear Hall.Qtel. (+385-) 099 814 47 24, www.ppvelebit.hr. Entrance hours: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30, 16:00 and 17:30. Entrance hours September, October: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30 and 16:00. Admission for one cave 50/30 kn, two caves 80/50 kn.

Nature Park Telašćica A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali.

Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pptelascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 - 40kn.

paklenica national park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.

The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climb-

The northern velebit national park The beech forests in the area of the Northern Velebit National Park and within the Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi Strict Nature Reserve, together with the beech forests at Suva draga, Klimenta and Oglavinovac-Javornik in the Paklenica National Park, together with beech forests in 10 other European countries, are entered on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Huge, seemingly bare masses of rock full of crevices, impenetrable forests, glades large and small, grassy karst valleys, chasms, sinkholes, ice caves, ponds and limestone pavements... The Northern Velebit is a real mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats which are home to many plant, animal

Velika Paklenica, Photo by Natalija Andačić, Paklenica National Park Archives

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nature Getaways

npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr

and fungus species, a natural wealth which has only just begun to be discovered. It is exactly this diversity of karstic forms, plant and animal life and natural landscapes which was the reason why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for anyone who prefers an active holiday and spending time in pristine nature with the sense of a primordial wilderness.

Biking, hiking, photography… the choice is yours. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Normally it is said that people conquer mountains, but the Velebit is a mountain range that conquers the hearts of its visitors.

Zavižan and Alan are areas undergoing continuous change with open grassy spaces, thick green forests and huge limestone boulders, all surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora, the diversity of its plant communities. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, is fascinating for its numerous ruins of old shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in the mountains in times past, and are monuments of this region’s cultural heritage. The Premužić Trail takes you to the very tips of the Velebit range and is amazing both for the feat of engineering it represents and for the diversity of the karst formations it passes through. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Velebit House Velebit House is a visitor and information centre for visitors to the Northern Velebit National Park. It is located in the village of Krasno, one of the mountain’s largest settlements. The Centre presents the natural and cultural wealth of the Park in a modern and attractive way throughout the year. You can find out what to visit in the Park, in Krasno and its surroundings, and you can buy entry tickets to the Park and souvenirs. You can learn about the climate, species and habitats, cultural heritage, geology and subterranean world of the Northern Velebit. The emphasis is on the deep chasms as a unique feature of the Park. You will learn about the geology and the process of formation of the chasms, their history and the techniques used to explore them, and you will be introduced to the unique animal kingdom under the ground. An especial attraction is the experience of entering the chasm using a special “lift”. Mystical and inaccessible to most, almost everyone can experience the real world under the ground at Velebit House. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www.kuca-velebita. np-sjeverni-velebit.hr/. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

The Alan Shepherds’ Huts The renovation of the shepherds’ huts within the Park has made possible overnight stays for visitors and the reintroduction of traditional livestock farming as anessential management measurefor the preservation of biodiversity.

The huts serve both for the accommodation of visitors and for the implementation of educational programmes on the Summer 2018

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Nature Getaways subjects ofnatural species and habitats and the traditional way of life of the local population. Staying in the renovated shepherds’ huts, you will learn about the traditional way of living and working on Velebit and learn how that way of life was in complete harmony with nature and founded on the principles of sustainability. Qwww.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr/ posjeti/smjestaj Vrana Lake (Vransko jezero) Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero), just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Qwww.vransko-jezero.hr. Offices in Biograd Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 21:00 which includes weekends. En‑ trance 20/10kn.

Kamenica Jezerce, Bojinac, Photo by M. Radolović - Mrlja, Paklenica National Park Archives

Velebit Photo Safari Archives

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Medicinal mud, Photo by Marija Dejanovic, Nin Tourist Board Archives

BEACHES If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good facilities including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east.

Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas. If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak. All the islands we feature in Zadar Surroundings have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

KOTO/OTOK literary and artistic map, by Mirjana Mrkela and Silvijana Dražović illustrator, on sale at Matica Zadrana, Ulica Špire Brusine 4

Art Galleries Anima Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC‑3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www. anima.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Buža As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. N 58 Zadar In Your Pocket

Laudato Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, www.galerije.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen shop Atrox vina A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines from all regions, as well as sparkling wines and champagnes! The company occasionally organises the promotion of local wines in collaboration with local hotels or restaurants. So deep thinkers of wine, or connoisseurs of zadar.inyourpocket.com

Shopping the fine drop will find ‘Atrox vina’ heaven on earth.QD‑1, J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 54 26, www.atroxzadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bibich A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Delikatese Lukin Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat!QC‑2, Pod be‑ demom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. J­A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recog-

afordable art 3D print bust of Hercules It is believed that whilst under Roman rule, Hercules was most likely patron to the city of Zadar. The Archaeological Museum souvenir shop (Trg opatice Čike 1) honours the past and has a 3D bust of the almighty hero with a Nemean Lion knotted around his neck. His heroic deeds haven’t been forgotten with this authentic souvenir or furniture item.

The Chest of St. Simeon One of the most valuable works of medieval art in Croatia is the Chest of St. Simeon which was built in 1380; it stands in the sanctuary of the city church named after him and carries his remains. He is the city’s beloved patron saint, much loved by its townsfolk. The Laudato Gallery produces and sells original copies of the chest as a symbol and souvenir of Zadar by using poured terracotta. Don Ive Prodana 11 is the address of the Gallery.

The Gold and Silver of Zadar Monograph The souvenir shop in the Benedictine monastery (Trg opatice Čike 1) contains a monograph of the treasury art of its very own permanent exhibition of Church artworks better known as‘The Gold and Silver of Zadar’. It presents pictures and descriptions of all 250 items of this beautiful and rich collection of religious objects made between the 8th and 18th centuries. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

nised cheese. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. (+385 -23) 70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 31 33 96, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Maraska Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3, tel. (+385-) 099 755 91 61, www.maraska.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Puntica Authentic prosciutto, bacon and other traditional meat products that are produced and sold from their very own production facility. In addition, they also offer cheese, wine, olive oil, salted anchovies, and other delicacies from local producers. It’s a Dalmatian sensation!QL‑4, J.J.Strossmayera 15, tel. (+385-) 091 413 72 14, www. dalmatinski-prsut.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Made in Croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. Galeb Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally known for conventional and classical underwear. Today, the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger Summer 2018

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Shopping materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, www. amzd.hr/en. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. N

Nature Corner Bio svijet Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar. QC‑3, Knezova Šubić Bribirskih 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 34, www.bio-svijet.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Jerkin Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures and natural cosmetics.QK‑2, Prilaz Fabijanića 11, tel. (+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89. Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Kadulja A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr. Hauschka.QC‑1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23 58 63. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

audience following the latest trends in design. Another range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club, with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Closed Sun. A Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 04 45, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Museum Artwork The Ancient Glass Museum Shop Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A The Archaeological Museum Shop An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different 60 Zadar In Your Pocket

Souvenirs Andreaart A small gift shop where you can find local ceramics, handbags, jewellery, paintings, lamps and other one of a kind home décor! Best of all, it’s 100% local in design and handmade of course.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 5, tel. (+385-23) 64 62 48. Open 09:00 - 16:00. From May 15 Open 09:00 - 20:00. From July Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Cvjećarnica Snježana Gents, you can never go wrong with flowers and there’s definitely a fine assortment of all sorts at this store. Other items include souvenirs, tiny laces, lavender sachets, handmade handbags and more.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 7, tel. (+385-) 099 213 13 08. Open Mon - Wed 08:00 - 12:30, Thu - Fri 08:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

shopping centres City Galleria QN‑5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www. citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P Supernova centar Zadar QP--1, Akcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova.hr/zadar. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Photo by Davor Strenja, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

ARRIVING By boat Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

G&V Line Iadera Lines Zadar - Iž - Rava, Zadar - Sali - Zaglav, Zadar - Sali - Zaglav - BršanjQB‑2, Poljana Natka Nodila 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 33, www.gv-zadar.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 17:00, 19:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00, 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 08:15, 15:30 - 17:00, 18:00 20:10.

Jadrolinija QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, /(+385-23) 25 05 55, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+38523) 25 10 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 06:00 - 22:15.

QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

(+385-23) 66 61 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00.

Miatours Catamaran Lines Zadar - Premuda - Silba - Olib, Zadar Pula.QB‑2, Vrata sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/ (+385-23) 25 44 00, www.miatours.hr. Open 08:00 14:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue and Thu 08:00 15:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. A

ARRIVING By bus The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 4kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at news stands buys you two trips. The ticket office at the station is open 05:40 - 22:00.

Zadar Coach Station Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING By car The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

ARRIVING By plane Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, www. zadar-airport.hr.

aRRIVING By train Since Zadar doesn’t have a high-speed rail link to mainline routes in Croatia, a new service organised by Croatian Railways enables you to catch a bus from Zadar to Knin, which is on the high speed route connecting Zagreb and Split, enabling you to travel onward in either direction.Your ticket covers both bus and rail parts of the journey, and the bus stops en route according to the timetable.The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains, online on www.hzpp.hr or via smartphone application HZPP Tickets. The railway station doesn’t have many facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station you can use the services available there. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.

Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) QO‑1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 54 02 88/Na‑ tional info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

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tourist information Tourist Information Centre is situated at Cedulin Palace. This palace’s history spans noble beginnings, conversion into a military hospital, a civilian hospital, and now, after restoration in 2017, it houses Zadar’s Tourist Information Centre, the Zadar Tourist Board and Zadar County Tourist Board. The stone-flagged courtyard with its wellhead is an elegant new venue for social and cultural events.

Tourist Information Centre QD‑2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, www.zadar.travel. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

Zadar Tourist Board QD‑2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Open 08:00 - 22:00. June Open 09:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 09:00 -24:00.

Zadar County Tourist Board QD‑2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51, www.zadar.hr.

Biking Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.

Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

Calimero QM‑5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1a, tel. (+38523) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www.calimerosport.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Mondena travel QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/ (+385-) 098 65 47 02, www.mondenatravel.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement. A Zzuum QD‑2, Ulica Federica Grisogona 11a, tel. (+385-) 098 27 21 00/(+385-) 091 733 16 10, www.zzuum.com. It’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Left Luggage Bagul Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your belongings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour up to 30 kn for the entire day depending on the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 7, tel. (+385-) 091 956 48 04. May Open 07:15 - 15:15, Fri 07:15 - 16:30, Sat 07:15 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From June Open 07:15 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 20:00.

Elegance Tours Prices range from 10 kn per hour and up to 90 kn fot the entire day.QD‑3, Varoška ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 535 97 13, www.luggagestoragezadar.com. Open 07:45 - 21:00, Open 07:45 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:45 02:00.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.

There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

- 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. Changes in parking prices can occur during the summer period.

Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

Liburnija QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

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Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4

Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana Bršića K-5 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3

Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4

N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3

Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4 Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Trg opatice Čike B-3

Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3 Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2 Trg sv. Stošije K-6/B-3 Trg tri bunara K-5/A-3 Ulica BoreLli L-6/C-3 Varoška L-6/C,D-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1 Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4 Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3 Voštarnica L-4 Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5 Vrata sv. Roka K-5 Zadarskog mira K-6 Zlatarska L-5/C-2 Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Zadar Basics Customs

Smoking

There are no custom limits between EU member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.poreznauprava.hr.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Disabled Travellers Awareness of accessibility issues for people with disabilities is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled badge holders; most hotels have at least one room adapted for accessibility requirements, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors you can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

You can also seek information from the following: Zadar Tourist Board on museums, attractions, accommodation, beaches, transport and public restrooms adapted for people with accessibility requirements, info@zadar. travel. Zadar County Association of People with Disabilities, Zadar Office Information and assistance relating to accessibility requirements, Ulica obitelji Stratico 1, tel./fax: (+385-23) 21 38 85, uti-zadar@ zd.t-com.hr.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Visas Croatian visa policies are fully compliant with the European Union visa policy and standards. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

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