Zagreb In Your Pocket No61

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Zagreb August - September 2011

Lazy Daisies

Choose your place in the sade in one of Zagreb‘s parks, terraces or galleries

Jesus Loves Tourists too!

Ecumenical Excursions, Religious Rambles, Saintly Sightseeing... ?

N°61 - complimentary copy

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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Contents

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

6

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

7

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

8

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

9

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay A place to rest your weary head

16

Dining & Nightlife

20

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

26

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

27

What to see

30

Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

38

Getting around Save on shoe leather Transport map

Mail & Phones

All those things you mustn’t miss

Holy Holidays

Scenes from the workshop “A Millennium of Cookery” at the Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park and Something fishy! in Sveta Nedelja (see page 22)

Saintly Sights and Religious Retreats

41 42 43

Shopping Helping you get rid of that extra cash

45

Leisure Swimming or Pilates

48

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support

51

Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

52

Maps & Index

A magical experience at Lauba - the House for People and Art (see page 10)

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Street index City centre map City map Country map

54 55 56 58 August - September 2011

4

Foreword Once upon a time, when a fatherly eye was kept on the good citizens in this part of the world, working days were short, activities were limited to the bare minimum (e.g. breathing) and summer holidays were looooong. During the summer months, Zagreb became a city of ghosts creeping along slim strips of shade on the asphalt, with little to do pass the time.

Then along came capitalism and people started to realise their time was for sale. Sadly, slowly, endless sojourns in the sun are becoming a thing of the past. But another new thing happened: tourists arrived in Zagreb. What a novelty! The truth is, despite Zagreb’s charm, there used to be very few holidaymakers here. So what did the kind people of Zagreb do? Put on a range of festivals and events to keep us all out of mischief until the social and cultural calendar kicks off again in autumn. This year, you’ll find the summer cultural programme better than ever before: the PIF International Puppet Festival, Summer on Stross, Amadeo Summer Scene… Read all about it on our Culture&Events pages. And if that’s not enough, grab a copy of the new Summer issue of Rijeka, Zadar, Split, Šibenik or Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, and head for the highway.

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business...

Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Researcher / Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover Zagreb Tourist Board Archive Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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6

Arriving in zagreb Tourist information

i

Tourist Information Centre C-2, Trg

bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@ zagreb-touristinf o.hr, w w w.zagrebtouristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.ured@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus

Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane

Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Basics

Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200kn (start 25kn, 1km/7kn, luggage 5kn). If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train

Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Customs

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr). For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a trans­former to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly mono­tone in re­li­gious terms. Having al­ ways ex­isted on the frontiers of three religions; Catho­lic, Orthodox and Mus­lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the popu­lation has be­ come over­whelmingly Catho­lic with the 2001 Cen­sus re­cording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald’s Big Mac 17.50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free ) 10,06kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,30kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.37 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.36 €1.26 €0.41 €1.37

Exchange rates (as of 25.07.2011.): US$1 = 5,19kn €1 = 7,46kn £1 = 8,45kn

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Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis­tance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Eu­ro­pean Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

Roads

7

75

10

50

0

25

-10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

0

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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You’re ready to go!

August - September 2011

8

HISTORY 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats

Culture & Events declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

01.10 Saturday

Britney Spears

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. This famous pop princess is coming to Zagreb for the first time as part of her ‘Femme Fatale World Tour’. The American singer is known for her memorable performances, great concert productions and popular hits. Her latest album ‘Femme Fatale’ with 2 hit songs “Hold It against Me” and “Till the World Ends” has sold over one million copies. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 300 - 700kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

07.10 Friday

Hladno pivo

Rock & Pop Concerts

21.08 Sunday

Hardcore Gig: Comeback Kid

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. One of the most innovative and promising hardcore bands of today that fuse 80s hardcore and melodies in the vein of Bad Religion to Rage Against the Machine. They return after packing the rafters at the Močvara Club in 2009 and will be supported by Living with Lions, Devil in Me and Blood Command. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

27.08 Saturday

Zagreb Foam Fest 2011

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Hladno Pivo come from the Zagreb suburb of Gajnice and is undoubtedly the country’s best punk act. With almost two decades behind them they continue to top the charts with hit singles and sell-out gigs.

Although remaining faithful to their punk sound, they do incorporate elements of country, metal, folk and jazz into their music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 150kn.

11.10 Tuesday

Jean-Michel Jarre

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. He is the pioneer of electronic music whose per formances are al ways accompanied by the latest in und and light technology with amazing stage effects. Jarre arrives as part of his ‘World Tour 2011’ and is set to bewitch the audience with his assortment of electronic sounds. With only eight thousand seating positions available, you may have to hurry to snap up your tickets. Q Tickets 250 - 600kn.

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb, www.zagrebfoamfest. com. Mix some bubbles, soap and water and you have ‘foam aplenty’ as this event will be the premiere of such to our city.

Who better to take over the turntables then the likes of David Morales and Eric Prydz amongst other Croatian and world DJ’s. The Zagreb Arena is set to come alive this summer. Q Concert starts at 22:00.

20.09 Tuesday

George Michael

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište. If you have seen him, then you haven’t seen him like this. George Michael graces the stage for the first time in Croatia where he performs alongside a symphony orchestra. This British icon will execute his carefully chosen hits amongst some of his favourite songs by other performers. New arrangements, new melodies and a totally new experience! Q Tickets 300 - 700kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

26.09 Monday

In Flames

I-3, Boogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 631 30 22, www.boogaloo.hr. These Swedish lads who fly the flag for melodic death metal are bound for glory this September. Hailing from Gothenburg, the band has sold over 2 million records and has toured the world over with many describing their concerts as energetic and amazing. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 170kn.

26.09 Monday

Tinariwen

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr.

This is one band that gained fame as the only world music group that reached the indie rock audience. Some of their biggest fans are some of the most famous performers of world rock. They were founded in a refugee camp for Tuareg rebels whilst their own name (translated as ‘empty space’) describes their home - endless spaces of the Sahara Desert.

Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 130 - 150kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

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August - September 2011

9

10

Culture & Events Lauba Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H-3, Baruna Filipovića

23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 11, info@lauba.hr, www. lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices.

The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements.

The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00.

Admission 10 - 30kn.

Culture & Events By the end of May 2011 more than 45,000 people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied arts featuring fashion and furniture design and more. It has been written about by France’s Le Figaro and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanish-speaking world as evidence that the “roaring twenties” was alive and kicking in Croatia too.

You can watch informative presentations on the Art Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays there are workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD or an audio guide.

28.01 Friday - 31.01.2012 Tuesday

The Rocky Planet Earth

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. This exhibition consists of three collections according to the classification of rocks: Igneous Rock, Sedimentary Rock and Metamorphic Rock. At the same time, you’ll have the chance to learn about the origins of our planet, to witness the lava flows of Vesuvius and to get closer to rocks from outer space - meteorites.

31.05 Tuesday - 31.08 Wednesday

Memories of Zagreb

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Enter a time machine and travel back with 9 photo albums showcasing our city from 1864 to 1895. Compare the then and now of urban development, architecture, city squares, the economy and life of the city, and the aftermath of the big 1880 earthquake. It also gives an impression of 19th century photography as well as a look are some of our great photographers.

03.06 Friday - 21.10 Friday

The Italian Pavilion in the world: Sabina Damiani and Igor Gustini C-2, Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, www.iiczagabria.esteri.it. As part of the 54th International exhibition of the 2011 Venice Biennial; Zagreb hosts one of 89 Italian world Institutes which supports the works of Italian artists or those Italian by descent. Featured this year is photographer Sabrina Damiani who presents her images, graphics and collages whilst Igor Gustini’s submits his creative art installations.

10.06 Friday - 21.08 Sunday

Ivan Kožarić - Across the Line

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. Ivan Kožarić is an artist who defies the odds and refuses to be labelled and tagged by genre or style. In celebrating his 90th birthday on June 10, this exhibit will present over 400 of his works thus giving visitors the chance to witness a huge part of his opus; a true revelation, even for those who know his oeuvre very well. His works in paper and other media will be highlighted.

30.06 Thursday - 15.12 Thursday

Fire

D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@etnografski-muzej.hr, www. emz.hr. This exhibition is burning red hot with its authors presenting the importance of fire through social, historical, economical, and symbolic perspectives. It includes fire as linked to lightning and volcanoes, craft and industry, religion and folklore, to heretics and witches, celebrations and festivities, and more. So the heat is on at the Ethnographic Museum.

Exhibitions

01.11.2010 Sunday - 02.10 Sunday

Memories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The commanding figure of ban Josip Jelačić is analysed as well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult figure and a symbol of Croatian independence.

12.07 Tuesday - 15.09 Thursday

Sculpture in Stone 1991-2011

I-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska ulica 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50. The art of sculpting has been around for centuries and to this day can leave enthusiasts spellbound.

Those who value and appreciate the art can attend this exhibition which reviews multitudes of works that have been created in the last two decades, from 1991 to 2011.

26.01 Wednesday - 28.08 Sunday

Art déco in Croatia in the Interwar Period

B-3, The Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo. hr. The exhibition “Art Deco in Croatia in the Interwar Period” at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb has been so well received both at home and abroad that it has been extended until 28 August 2011. This gives tourists visiting Zagreb over the summer the chance to see one of the most popular exhibitions here in recent years, while students and art lovers can still arrange their trip to Zagreb to visit the exhibition.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

14.07 Thursday - 30.09 Friday

Late Antique Necropolis in Zmajevac

Endeavour, Johann Lurf

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C-2, Archaeological Museum, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr.

The archaeological site at Zmajevac, in the Baranja Region began in 1988 when three Roman graves with remains of

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skeletons and burial objects were found after a land slide.

Thereafter, 175 graves with numerous valuable findings have been found and the author here has created a modern and multimedia exhibition which will depict the magical world of archaeological research with images, sound and ambience.

19.07 Tuesday - 06.08 Saturday

Parallel Nippon

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Architectural devotees ought to appreciate this insight into contemporary Japanese architecture between 1996 and 2006. This was the period that started to question the concept of living in space with a focus on new materials in construction, and new ideas on coexistence between man and his living space.

06.09 Tuesday - 06.11 Sunday

Expressionism in Croatia

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Influences from Vienna, Munich and Prague paved the way for expressionism to find its route into Croatian art, literature and theatre. The period 1916 - 1921 was a high point and this exhibit reflects on the various representative artworks and texts that were produced, thus signifying a sense of modernity and a desire for something new and different at the time.

15.09 Thursday - 23.10 Sunday

Architect Ignjat Fisher (1870 - 1948)

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

By golly this city would not look the same if it was not for this famous 20th century Zagreb architect. See his entire opus which will be presented and evaluated, as well as the aristocratic clientele he worked for and his atelier. His urban and space interventions include the Gradska Kavana and Ivan Meštrović’s ‘Well of Life’ amongst many others.

www.inyourpocket.com August - September 2011

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events 05.09 Monday - 11.09 Sunday

Out of town

Special events

Amadeo Scene

16.04 Saturday - 18.10 Tuesday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

16.04 Saturday - 25.09 Sunday

If you have enjoyed our choice of events in Zagreb and now wish to visit the Dalmatian Coast or the many other tourist destinations in Croatia’s mainland, we bring you an array of events that will undoubtedly thrill your tourist delights: Until 14.08 The 52nd Split Summer Festival, Split A series of musical and theatre shows with performances by over 800 artists from across the world will be held in Split, one of Croatia’s coastal gems.

U n t i l 2 5 . 0 8 D u b r ov n i k S u m m e r F e s t i v a l , Dubrovnik Whilst in Dubrovnik, visit one of the most important and biggest events to be held along the Adriatic Coast. This year’s programme includes a repertoire of 80 different concerts, ballet shows, theatre productions, promotions and more...

19.08 - 28.08 Špancirfest, Varaždin Heading North? Then don’t miss the series of special and entertaining events held in Varaždin, one of the most beautiful baroque cities in Croatia. This festival is growing in size and stature and watch as the entire city becomes a stage.

19.06-09.09 Summer on Gradina, Trsat, Rijeka A music and theatre event held in Rijeka on the Trsat Gradina (fortress) - with renowned Croatian pop and rock performers, klape, classical musicians, theatre acts and much more.

B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lorščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

18.06 Saturday - 03.09 Saturday

Amadeo Scene

Zagreb In Your Pocket

B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska 25. Lights, camera, action!

This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.

Galleries

Strossmartre - The 11th Summer on Stross

Every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday between 19:00 and 23:00 as well as on weekends between 11:00 and 13:00, stroll up to the old town with evergreen musical repertoires as well as the rhythms of swing, jazz and Irish music. Musicians will play at various locations between the Krvavi Most Street, and Tkalčićeva Street up until the street number 53. A special attraction will be ‘the Flying Piano’ which will be installed at different spots along the street with visitors also being able to present their pianistic attributes.

International Experimental Film and Video Festival

Medvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 63 17. Is this for the faint hearted? The glory of chivalry returns as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous jousting tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking witches about!

27.05 Friday - 03.09 Saturday

Tkalčijana

20.09 Tuesday - 25.09 Sunday

The 6th Medieval Days on Mount Medvednica

Zrinjevac Park, Upper Town, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

06.07 Wednesday - 30.09 Friday

Zagreb Youth Theatre (Teslina 7), Zagreb Puppet Theatre (Baruna Franje Trenka 3), Theatre Komedija (Kaptol 9), Travno Scene (Božidara Magovca 17), tel. (+385-1) 660 16 26. Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb’s streets, squares and theatres between September 5 - September 11. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww!

EEEeee!) Performers from all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s plays. Contact: Međunarodni centar u kulturi, B. Magovca 17.

25.09 Sunday

The Zagreb Time Machine

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 08, www.scenaamadeo.hr. A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatrein Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue.

Q Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00. Tickets 50 - 60kn.

PIF - 44th International Puppet Theatre Festival

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb,

The Changing of the Guard

Summer in Maksimir Relive the classics of one of the world’s greatest bands with concerts held at the small stage near the main entry into Maksimir Park. They are live every Sunday in July and August between 18:00 and 20:00. Free entry!

Summer in Maksimir: 31.07. The Beatles Revival Band 07.08. Miro Ungar and Mojo Stuff Band 21.08. Dudo Vorih Trio 28.08. Vanja Lisak Trio

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tel. (+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr.

Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

PIF - 44th International Puppet Theatre Festival

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 15 - September 1. Admission 10 - 40kn.

Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, info@ brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 20kn.

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August - September 2011

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Culture & Events The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-10kn.

Small galleries These are the places where you can find all kinds of intriguing exhibitions and installations run by various groups. It’s a dynamic scene - well worth checking out Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr.

Culture & Events G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 99. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff.

Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, www.hd-naiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of bright-coloured paintings.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Ivan Kožarić Interwiev Of the greats of Croatian art of the 20th century, the last left standing are Ivan Kožarić and Josip Vaništa. Other greats such as Knifer, Srnec, Murtić, Richter, Kristil, Picelj have already left us.

Ivan Kožarić is possessed of a gigantic artistic charisma.

His sculpture of the Sun in Bogovićeva ulica is probably his most famous work.

In 2007 the Zagreb city authorities bought Kožarić’s atelier in its entirety, with over 6,000 works, and entrusted it to the Museum of Contemporary Art, where it will be kept on a permanent basis. Here, the collection is on display as part of an exhibition called “Collection in Motion”. Mr Kozarić was kind enough to answer a few questions for us.

ZIYP: Is there any specific moment in the history of Croatian art which has inspired you?

IK: The first of the greats who occurs to me is Meštrović, although… I didn’t think that he was contemporary enough to be my role model. Maybe also for the reason that he wasn’t free. He was too locked into the ruling powers, where there money is.

ZIYP: On 10 June you celebrated your 90th birthday.

What can still lead you Over the Line* into uncharted waters? (*title of an exhibition in the Museum of Contemporary Art, on until 21 August) IK: I don’t feel old, although I am old. Not much has changed regarding my endeavours. I haven’t stopped, nor do I think one should stop. (Shows new drawings, among which is the slogan “Freedom is a rare bird”). For example, in the performance Breaking Frames, I smashed the frames of

Zagreb In Your Pocket

my pictures. I wanted to show that we should break old forms to create new ones.

ZIYP: What role has ar t played in shaping and transforming our urban landscape, at a time when our understanding of the “city” is changing: the pace of our lifestyles, the layers of our culture?

IK: If the art in question is an independent, successful sculpture, then yes, it affects our space.

ZIYP: What does the Zagreb of today and the Zagreb of times past mean to you, and does the city offer enough space for freedom of expression?

IK: In Zagreb the situation is so-so. Zagreb is a city which is expanding and it does have possibilities, but for art collectors the situation is quite poor. After my sculpture of the Sun had been put in place for the first time in the 1970s, it was removed because it was judged a “hindrance to traffic”. There are a lot of versions of what exactly happened. I think that artists today are not motivated to work with the city’s fabric. There is no real coexistence and there are few links between artists and those who decide how the city will look. Some sculptures which have been erected shouldn’t have been because they don’t represent contemporary sculpture.

ZIYP: Do you follow the young art scene today? How do you think it will change?

IK: I do follow them, and I will follow them as long as I live. I bought a sculpture by Kristijan Kožula when he had one of his first exhibitions, and I have it in my home today. I feel that young artists today, with a few notable exceptions, are not active enough. The fact that there are no opportunities is beside the point: I didn’t have everything on a plate either.

ZIYP: You have worked a couple of times with the rock group Roderick Novy. How much has music influenced your work?

IK: Working with Roderick Novy was a very interesting, brief but creative period for me. Music and the visual arts are compatible. However, I don’t need music while I’m working, I don’t feel I need something to “help” me. I have never collected records or albums, although I like music.

I don’t have a particular time when I listen to music, it happens by chance.

ZIYP: Your works are known for radiating freshness and wit. Is that connected with your character, is that your approach to daily life?

IK: Yes, they are connected. They grew out of my artistic freedom. I approach work and life in the same way; it’s all so connected you can’t separate them.

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Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 42 47. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Bužančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec,

tel. (+385-1) 614 01 90, czk-novi-zagreb@zg.t-com.hr, www.czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+385-1) 377 08 96, galerija.vladimira.nazora@kgz.hr, www.kvn. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija.zvonimir@ morh.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Cinemas Movie buffs who devour block-busters or the latest 3D will find Cinestar and Movieplex the cinemas to attend. Those who prefer the alternative and independent productions ought to visit cinemas Europa, Tuškanac and the art cinema KIC. And believe it or not we are pleased to have our own documentary cinema called Dokukino! All films are shown in their original languages with Croatian subtitles. Ticket range

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between 10 to 30kuna and you can book in advance at most cinemas. For all schedules check their web sites.

Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr.

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall.

QOpen 13:00 - 21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world docs. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 10:00 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn.

Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. Tickets for the Grič Cinema can be booked easily, every day from 8:00 - 22:00 on 487 28 88.

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Tickets 15kn.

Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Tickets 20 - 25kn.

Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Tickets 10kn.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com August - September 2011

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Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2,

tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton. com/zagreb. Every thing you’d expect from the worldrenowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile.

Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/ zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q 378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500).

PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469

60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www. arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations.

Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment.

Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480).

PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Where to stay As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. (+385-1) 460 91 11, fax (+385-1) 460 93 03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr.

The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their fourstars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (19 singles €120, 19 doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBKW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel.

Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187).

PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q222 rooms (100 singles €135, 93 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400).

POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@fourpoints. com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international. hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant.

If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences

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in town. Q207 rooms (196 singles 900kn, 196 doubles 900kn, 7 Family Rooms 1300kn, 2 Business Suites 1300kn, 1 Superior Suite 1800kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3000kn).

POTHAR6ULGKW hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant.

Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg.

Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away.

Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194).

PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info.

Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person.

Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555).

POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €82, 29 doubles €107 - 116, 5 triples €145, 4 apartments €192). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn).

THABK hhh Galerija G-6, Pogačićeva 11, tel./fax (+385-1) 654 25 77, tel. (+385-) 098 23 62 22, hotel.galerija@zg.t-com. hr, www.hotel-galerija.hr. Convenient for drivers, close by one of the main entrance points into Zageb, Galerija is very new, well-equipped, and nice if you like contemporary styling.

If you don’t like pastel colours, you might be a bit frightened.

Kind and helpful staff. Prices include breakfast. Q18 rooms (6 singles €50, 10 doubles €69, 1 triples €89, 1 apartments €102). PHA6LGBKDW hhh zagreb.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2011

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Where to stay Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./fax (+385-1) 244 51 38, tel. (+385-1) 244 52 04, info@ hotelvilatina.hr, www.hotelvilatina.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park. Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°203 north up Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets.

Q25 rooms (8 singles 640kn, 14 doubles 720 - 800kn, 3 triples 800 - 980kn). PALGK hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGKW hhh

Where to stay Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, jadran@

hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location. No pets. Q49 rooms (26 singles €70, 18 doubles €98, 5 triples €121). PTJALGK hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €54 - 71, 86 doubles €67 - 80, 12 triples €93, 6 suites €95 - 121).

PTJHA6UIFGBKDXW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets.

Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILGW hhh

Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, r eception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-from-home that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-to-know fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a ″little things you need shop,″ cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person.

PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original woodbeam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 16 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person.

PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr. Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostel-away-from-home.

The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 16€ per person. PA6GW

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1)

484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, w w w. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spiri ts are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor.

Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apar tment available.

Ages 18-40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person.

P6NGW Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravniceyouth-hostel.hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youthhostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@ hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there’s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARUGW

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The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel. (+385-1) 600 36 00, fax (+385-1) 600 36 01, info@themoviehotel. com, www.themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj). There’s a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. Breakfast included. Q24 rooms (10 singles €55, 11 doubles €72, 3 triples €96). PAGK hhh

Budget Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel. (+385-1) 611 10 62, fax (+385-1) 619 44 98, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg. hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr. Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €35, 9 doubles €40 - 50, 2 Family Rooms €60 - 72).

PARUGW hh Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast.

No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hh Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one.

A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILVEGBK hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb.

Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Short term rental

care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey.

All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

Online booking Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Zagreb.inyourpocket.com & Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken

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Reserve a room at zagreb.inyourpocket.com August - September 2011

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Restaurants

Bosnian

Symbol key

Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. (+385-1)

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

Restaurants

N No Credit cards

613 10 26, www.restoran-sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia.

You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. July 15 - August 15 Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15 - 220kn). PALB

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

Holiday opening hours Please be aware that during the month of August, many Zagreb folk like to – and indeed need to – head off for their summer holidays, so you may find some restaurants, bars, clubs, shops and other businesses closed for part of the month, or with shortened opening hours. To be sure, give them a call before you set off.

Arabian Bazaar K-2/3, Radnička cesta 80 (Zagreb Tower), tel.

(+385-1) 618 73 89, info@restaurant-bazaar.com, www. restaurant-bazaar.com. Jump off the tram at Radnička and dive into Zagreb’s own Arabic dining oasis for one-of-a-kind blends of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine.

Let your senses rest awash in the dozens of spices enveloping each lamb and lentil delight. Ask your server for fresh flatbread and a delicate fruit or honey desert. Hugely popular for their cafeteria-style lunches and Saturday evening belly-dancing shows, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25 - 85kn). PA

Asian

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal.

Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. (+385-1) 618 76 18, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of Radnička and Vukovarska, this Chinese restaurant is pleasently clean and bright.The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25 130kn). PALGB

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel.

(+385-1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.boccamarai.hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn). PAG

Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre),

tel. (+385-1) 461 56 79, opiumbar@opiumbar.hr, www. opiumbar.hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an advanced sign of civilisation). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (70 - 110kn). PA

Fun for the whole family zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PTAEGB Jarunska oaza G-5, Jarun bb, Trešnjevka island, tel. (+385-) 098 62 29 56/(+385-) 098 78 26 61. A large black grill, lakeside seating and a few pivo from the ice chest combine to make for an atmosphere that says weekend whatever the day. The menu features all the beef and sausage you can stomach and is best described as decent.

Your departing gait will closely resemble a waddle. QOpen 16:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Open May - September.

(30 - 75kn). B Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika. hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it’s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 120kn). PAG Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices.

The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac.

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn).

PALGB NK Trnje J-4, Trg kardinala Šepera 3, tel. (+385-1) 615 12 22, www.restoran-nktrnje.hr. A favourite for the locals because of its miniscule price and massive portions of pure and unadulterated plates of meat. Vegetarians will cry their eyes out here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

(30 - 80kn). PALGB Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of i ts star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn).

PALEGB Tač H-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, info@ restac.hr, www.restac.hr. Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking.

On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec.

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 - 20.

(40 - 120kn). PAILGX

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August - September 2011

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Restaurants Gastro events 26.08 Friday - 28.08 Sunday

What our forefathers used to eat

Vrbovec. Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival “Kaj su jeli naši stari” (“What our folks used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music. For more info see www.tz-vrbovec.hr or contact the Vrbovec Tourist Board, Trg Petra Zrinskog 7a, Vrbovec, tel. (+385-1) 279 16 61, tzvrbovec@tzzz.hr.

03.09 Saturday

Something fishy!

Sveta Nedelja. A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s “Fišijada” are caught in the Rakitje lake.

The fish are caught an d prepare d in cauldrons on th e lakesh ore by th e m em b ers of t h e local fishing club.

Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nomina ted b est in show. Pu t your tastebuds to th e test! Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel. (+385-1) 337 39 19, info@ svetanedelja.hr, www.svetanedelja.hr.

08.09 Thursday - 11.09 Sunday

Jaska Wine Celebration

Jastrebarsko. To the southwest of Zagreb, the pleasant town of Jastrebarsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly picturesque wine-producing region. Every September, the locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great opportunity to try some of the excellent local wines, culinary specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart from that, there’s a full programme of entertainment laid on - it’s a truly jolly occasion. Jastrebarsko Tourist Board, Strossmayerov trg 4, Jastrebarsko, tel. (+385-1) 627 29 40, info@ tzg j.hr, www.tzg j.hr.

10.09 Saturday - 11.09 Sunday

A Millennium of Cookery

The Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park. The Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park is a stunning area of serrated woody hills to the west of Zagreb. Human habitation here stretches back to the Celts. The workshop “Tisućljeća kulinarstva” (“A Millennium of Cookery”) explores a thousand years of cookery, featuring highly original recipes and healthy ingredients. The day kicks off at 10:00 with a tour of the park’s archaeological trail, followed by the workshop and consumption of the resulting goodies.To join in, please contact the Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park authorities on (+385-1) 332 76 60, arheolog@ park-zumberak.hr, www.park-zumberak.hr. Q 40kn per person to join in.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Restaurants Tip -Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49.

A clear example of content over style, Tip - Top offers a very tasty spread for a minimum of kuna. This place is a local favourite, a spot for spirited conversation or an evening paper.

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAG Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94/ (+385-) 095 114 45 55, 095 114 45 56, info@trilogija. com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 125kn). PA Trnjanka D-4, Trnjanska cesta 31, tel. (+385-1) 611 96 85/(+385-1) 611 96 86, www.restoran-trnjanka.hr.

The lamb is famous and authentic as can be - be prepared to spend as much time hunting for the meat amongst the ligament and gristle as you do actually eating. Once it has been found it is undeniably tasty. The decor is forgettable.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (55 - 95kn). PALG

Istrian 100% Istra (Kod Pavela) Gračanska cesta 46, tel.

(+385-1) 467 50 36, stopostoistra@gmail.com. Walk to the foot of the Sljeme hills and there you will find a Mecca of Istrian specialities conveniently close to Zagreb. A selection of the region’s finest wines, the fritula dessert and funnyshaped pasta - each custom designed for its accompanying sauce - and those much coveted truffles will all have you dreaming of lazy Istrian days by the sea. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (60 - 140kn). PALGB

Greek Hellas C-1, Opatovina 35, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 51, info@

hellas.com.hr, www.hellas.com.hr. Located in Opatovina near the Franciscan Church, this is the only Greek restaurant in Zagreb. The main part of the restaurant has an open fire place. A bar is on the ground floor, while on the open terrace on the first floor you can enjoy the spectacular view and the intimacy of the old town. Q Open 13:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. (41 - 80kn). JAIB

Kuhinja K-3, Donje Svetice 46c, tel. (+385-1) 240 81

11/(+385-) 091 222 54 44, www.restoran-kuhinja. com. Savor the understated pleasure of dining amidst tables packed with lunchtime locals where fast, friendly servers offerup generously portioned plates of ever-changing yet always mouth-watering takes on delectable classic cuisine. Try the full menu on a Friday or Saturday when it’s accompanied by live Tambura music. Whether for a daily lunch special or an evening out, the tastefully homey atmosphere of The Kitchen will guarantee you won’t want your first visit to be the last.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. August 1 - 15 Open 11:00 - 17:00.

(35-400kn). PAUVEBS Mano I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill.

Excellent wines. Reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. July 25 - August 3 Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed August 4 - 15. August 16 - 28 Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 150kn). PAB Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, info@marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15. (40 - 130kn).

PALGB Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 19:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn). PJAG

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 31 - August 8. PAG

Italian Carpaccio C-2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482

23 31, carpaccio@ristorantecarpaccio.hr, w w w. ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines.

While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

(55 - 150kn). PJA

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Il Secondo Avenija Dubrovnik 12, tel. (+385-1) 658

66 09, info@ilsecondo.hr, www.ilsecondo.hr. Exquisite tastes at affordable prices are as inviting for a quiet coffee for two as they are for family meals. This addition to the Boban family Italian restaurants has even included private areas for large parties and small children. Just a few steps from Avenue Mall, don’t miss this elegant home-away-from-home. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 120kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn).

PAGB Molto E-2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31, molto@ molto.hr, www.molto.hr. The gods of décor smiled as this combination of inviting atmosphere and delicious treats recently entered the Zagreb restaurant scene. The hide-away bistro just minutes from the main square is already a buzz with locals as a must-see spot to gather with friends or grab a great steak. Savor experiencing a truly local cuisine knowing that all ingredients are from near-by Kvatrić market. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 120kn). PAGB Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, restoran.oliva@gmail.com, www. restoran-pizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 12kn).

AVB

August - September 2011

23

24

Restaurants Japanese

Restaurants 44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven.

This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn).

AVBS

Pizza

Quick Eats

tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, open 11:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed July 20 - August 20. (40 - 180kn). PG

Dalmatino G-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-1 ) 369

85 29. Fans of the coast, the spotted black and white puppy dog and the Croatian vodka of the same name may be lured in by this critter. Great if you`re in the lake Jarun neighbourhood especially. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.

(30 - 45kn). PAB

City Kebab C-1, Tkalčićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 482 87 85. Real doner kebabs! An internet search for the history of the doner revealed the following delightful definition: A ubiquitous foodstuff synonymous with drunkenness, tack and dubious meat content. In other words - marvellous!

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.

Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden. hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (www.novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www.orgona.com.hr).

Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/

(+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS

Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.

novarestoran.com.hr. Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 130kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert.

The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. PG

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Stripes K - 2, Maksimirska 58a, tel. (+385-1) 222 21

Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol),

Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75.

Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

Stores Bio&Bio D-2, Jurišićeva 28, tel. (+385-1) 487 62 69,

zg2@biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.com.hr. Probably the best selection of health food and natural cosmetics you’ve ever seen. Also at B-2, Ilica 72. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. PA Garden B-2, Masarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 24 28, www.mojgarden.h. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

86. Like a cooler version of home, this neighborhood spot comes with a touch of unpresuming class. The variety of seating options includes window seat armchairs around tiny tables for two and decorous dining and bar areas all of which create an intimate atmosphere for groups large or small.

Seasoned with good music and great service, the final blend is a welcoming space to spend time with friends or make new ones. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 100kn). PABW Žlica i vilica D-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+385-1) 457 27 70, www.zlicaivilica.hr. Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for? QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (28 - 60kn).

AGBS

Seafood Where to eat When you scratch below the surface, Zagreb has a huge number restaurants. And we’ve run out of space to print them all. So we’ve taken a new approach to the What to Eat section. Each issue, we’ll present a selection for you, showing what’s new, what’s hot and highlighting a few suggestions where you can eat well at every price range. For our full restaurant listing, check out www. inyourpocket.com, then click on Croatia, Zagreb and Restaurants. But rest assured, wherever you go you’ll probably have a great time. Croatians are great cooks, and you have to be pretty unlucky to stumble across a bad meal.

Lari & Penati D-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465

57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati.hr. Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you’ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the lastest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (18 70kn). PAGBS La Salata C-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 795 18 86, www.lasalata.com. The name says it all! There is a fast food salad bar in the alley at the beginning of Jurišićeva Street. If you fancy the greener foods in life then you can try the various tasty salads made from fresh vegetables and fruit. Sandwiches, different pies and quiche Lorraine are also served. It’s a quick healthy lunch, and good for the price. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (14 - 45kn).

Mimice D-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24.

As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s walls. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (16 - 35kn). PN Pinguin Sandwich Bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 46. Recently expanded by a few cubic millimetres, Pinguin has glammed up its menu to include hard-to-find deli items and designer bread. Still the best and healthiest fast food option in the heart of Zagreb. The outdoor stools are a nice perch from which to watch street people and theatre goers pass by. Q Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. (15 - 30kn).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights.

The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 130kn).

PJALEGB Gallo B-3, Hebrangova 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

PAGB

Steak Houses Mu steak & chop house I-4, Ulica grada Vukovara

72, tel. (+385-1) 631 00 90, info@mu-steakhouse.com, www.mu-steakhouse.com. Imagine a huge, open room filled with relaxing music, a woodsy décor, and an attentive wait staff done up in slick, black and white duds bustling about. Add on a solid steakhouse menu offering steaks of all kinds and the sides you like to go with them and you’ve got Steakhouse MU! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 130kn). PA6GBXSW

August - September 2011

25

Nightlife

CAFéS

26

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.

The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why.

This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GB new

Dvorište K-2, Maksimirska 31, tel. (+385-) 099 291 49

99. Conveniently close to Kvaternikov square, this cute little cafe is unique in its family friendly offering: a mini playground in its tucked-away interior terrance, inviting kids to romp sideby-side with parents enjoying the pleasant outdoor seating.

For those less interested in swings and teeter-totters, the interior and sidewalk areas are cozy and inviting. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P

as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top.

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@ gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout.

Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Pušlek - Cvjetni trg C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 76. Opposite Bulldog, there is a different kind of café which offers an entirely different experience. A socialist interior attracts plenty of visitors, especially intellectuals and students. In case you’re lucky to get a window seat, you can enjoy the slapdash of Zagreb street life. And please, make sure you have some change in case you need to visit the toilet to make “baka” happy! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign.

Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.

Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed July 23 - August 26. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.

Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July 18 - August 18 Open Mon 19:00 24:00, Tue 19:00 - 01:00, Wen 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. July 22 - August 22 Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. EB

new

U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@

Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2,

tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day.

The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33.

What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this

Zagreb In Your Pocket

gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-stroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshlysqueezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Vimpi C-2, Miškecov prolaz 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 30.

Not wimpy at all. You’ll be thrilled with the music selection of classic rock and roll and blues, and then the dark wooden interior that most nearly suggests western saloon (a stretch, we admit). This is a great place to hang out after work and take in a pleasant conversation with friends. Just behind Cinema Europa so it’s great just before or after a movie.

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PB

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Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front.

Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB

Strossmartre

Bars Though these babies operate in the daytime hours, they are often prime pre-party destinations for locals and tourists on the prowl.

Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel. hr, www.bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking.

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 16. August 16 - 23 Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

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Nightlife

Nightlife Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel.

Lucullus I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 645

53 43, lucullus@caffe-bar-lucullus.hr, www.caffe-barlucullus.hr. Tucked away across the street from Avenue Mall, this tiny space holds an impressive Summer Fest line-up of local musical favorites beginning in May. The late summer session runs 24 August - 24 September and promises a great evening out with local music lovers. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 . 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it?

Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.

PALGX

Clubs Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15. August 16 - 31 Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B

Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed July 31 - August 21.

Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere.

QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed August 1 - 21.

Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com.

Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

(+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-) 098 193 12 81, khala@khala.hr, www.khala.hr. Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PABX People’s J-3, Hektorovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 76/ (+385-1) 604 01 89, prodaja@victus-epulo.com, www. peoples.hr. A night out at this slick lounge and restaurant can move in several distinct stages. First, a selection from the quality menu offering Italian, Mediterannean and Asian Fusion. Then, a move to the lounge for a selection from the immense champagne and wine list. Then, as the night progresses, a move to the huge bar in the center of the room as the place transforms into a happening night bar. All in all, a cool place to hang out in Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sundays in August. PAK

Jarun lake Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny restaurant that works from 10:00-02:00. Private functions Zagreb In Your Pocket

can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games.

The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

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Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying.

The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed July 20 - August 15. NBX Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 93, dublinpub2003@gmail.com, www.dublinpub. hr. The ‘Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem. Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you’re not wearing your hottest gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large “pub” - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PGB The Old Pharmacy Pub C-3, Hebrangova 11a. The mix of great waiters, CNN, Sky Sports and surprising collection of English newspapers makes this place a chill hangout, perfect for business or pleasure. Music doesn’t shatter your eardrums, rare in these parts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. July 15 - August 15 Closed Sun. PAX August - September 2011

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What to see

What to see Museums

Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa

Jelačića) C-2. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city.

There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery.

Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a

country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i

obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn.

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon.

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

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Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hrskolskimuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 16, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Kaptol Hill The oldest square in Zagreb is the square on Kaptol Hill, in front of today’s Zagreb Cathedral.

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What to see The Observatory

Funicular

(Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485

B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world.

Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr.

Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized touristic tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3,

Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz. hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. Marton Museum C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton.hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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What to see

What to see

Nature injections You’ll be happy to see that parks and green places have been given a wealth of space in this capital city - they make for some of the best destinations in all of town. The numerous city parks - Maksimir, Ribnjak and Botanički vrt, to name a few - are well-kept oases of green in the middle of the city. The Medvedgrad mountain region just north of town is an exceptional expanse to take a break from city life and is only thirty minutes from the centre by tram. Jarun lake in the southwestern suburbs is a great recreation area too, encouraging locals and tourists alike to get out and get active.

Bundek Lakes J-4. Once a favourite walking and bathing spot that slipped into less than stellar condition, the Bundek Lakes were recently whipped into tip-top shape.

This means that now you have one more place to spend a hot sunny day while enjoying all of your favorite outdoor activities.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

Botanical garden B-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that yes, there is more to life than cars, high-rises and computers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. There are also great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bear the weight of full-grown humans.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Open April - November. Admission free.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo K-2. A perfect half-day outing for lovebirds, families or creatures of the four-legged variety, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all part of the equation, as well as clouds, sky and, periodically, the sun itself! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such, it’s a great escape.

The 18 hectares of l u sh gre e n er y a n d forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. As an added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it.

Catch tram N°11 or 12 (Dubec) from ban Josip Jelačić to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Lake Jarun A place to hang out when temperatures in the city begin to approximate those found on the outer rungs of hell. Boasting brilliant recreation, night-life, café and relaxation opportunities, it’s truly the best way to beat the heat. Located in the southwest portion of town (G-5), take tram 17 (Jarun) from ban Josip Jelačić Square.

Sljeme/Medvednica When city stress and summer heat get too much for you, strap on your hiking boots and head up to Sljeme! Sljeme, at 1032m is the highest peak of Mount Medvednica, that cluster of hills and mountains that sits to the north of the city. There are a number of walking routes to the top, most of which take a few hours at most. The most popular ones involve starting at the village of Šestine (bus number 102 from Britanski trg) or from Dolje (tram number 8 or 14 to Mihaljevac, then tram number 15 to Dolje). Follow the track through the tunnel, and you’ll hit the paths that lead to the top. Eating and drinking opportunities abound and the beautiful meadows and walking trails help you to rediscover the simpler joys of life. If you’re into biking, there are numerous trails through Medvednica. Take a look at www.sljeme.hr.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified bod y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar.

The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@zg.t-com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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What to see The Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) C-1, Kamenita bb. The oldest pharmacy in Zagreb, it’s a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much like a bar or café today.

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C-3/4. A forward thinking urban

planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1,

Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-gradazagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971.

In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Holy HOLIDAYS Religious tourism has a long history in Croatia, since the custom of pilgrimages and visits to sacred sites goes back millennia. In going on a pilgrimage, people fulfil deep personal and spiritual needs, or perhaps make votive offerings when seeking help with problems in life, such as with their health or that of their loved ones. As Croatian holy places become more visited in tandem with the growth of tourism in general, more facilities are developing to support these place of worship, such as better accommodation facilities or related cultural activities.

As you probably know by now, Croatia is a predominantly Catholic country, and for that reason the Virgin Mary is the most venerated of all the saints here. The most significant saint’s day is the Feast of the Assumption of Mary on August 15, which is known here as “Velika Gospa”, which translates roughly as “The Great Lady”. This is a public holiday in Croatia, and if your visit to a Marian shrine coincides with this day you’ll find it is marked in fine style, and is very very busy.

If you would like to take part in a pilgrimage your best bet is to contact directly the shrine you are interested in to find out the timetable for pilgrimages. Alternatively, you can go through a travel agency that arranges religious tours, such as www.nb-maestral.hr or www.mihael-putovanja.hr. You might also see announcements about pilgrimages on the notice boards in churches across the country.

The most famous Marian shrines in Croatia are: The Shrine of the Mother of God of Bistrica is in the town of Marija Bistrica in the region of Zagorje, some 40km north of Zagreb. The pilgrimage season here lasts from the first Sunday after Easter until the end of October. During this time, about 50 pilgrimages take place. Here, a black wooden statue of the Mother of God that is said to have miraculous powers is venerated.

This tradition goes back to the end of the 15th century. The statue was originally kept in a chapel on a hill called Vinski vrh, and was hidden many times when the area was threatened by invading armies. The statue was forgotten about, and in 1684 reminded the locals of its presence by emitting a strange light. It was placed on the altar of this church and the site was proclaimed a national place of pilgrimage in 1715.

Pope John II visited Marija Bistrica in 1998. The pilgrimage calendar is available on www.svetiste-mbb.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

holy holidays The Shrine of the Mother of God of Trsat in Rijeka is a place where many sailors and pilgrims come every day to pray before a miraculous painting of the Mother of God with the name “the Merciful Mother”. The painting was sent to Trsat, which is sited on a cliff top overlooking the port city of Rijeka, by Pope Urban 5 in 1367. Pilgrimages take place all through the year, with the most important days being the annual celebrations of the Mother of God of Trsat on 10 May, the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary on 8 September, and the Feast of the Assumption on 15 August, when a traditional fair takes place. To take part in a weekend pilgrimage, you can call the Franciscan Monastery on Trsat which is at Frankopanski trg 12, Rijeka, tel. (385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com.

The Shrine of the Mother of God of Kamenita vrata (the “Stone Gate”), the patron saint of the city of Zagreb, is a place where people go to pray before a picture of the Virgin Mary which survived a great fire in 1761. The most important day here is the day when Zagreb remembers its patron saint and holds its annual town celebrations, 31 May. The Shrine of Our Lady of Tears is in Pleternica in eastern Croatia. In 2005, 50 years after veneration of Our Lady of Tears of Pleternica began, the parish was declared a place of pilgrimage. On this occasion, the Archbishop of Syracuse brought part of a relic of Our Lady of Syracuse as a gift to the parish. Every year at the end of August a nine day series of prayers called “devetnice” is held in honour of Our Lady of Tears.

The Shrine of Our Lady of Sinj in the town of Sinj, a miraculous painting of Our Lady is venerated, which is known as “The Mother of Mercy”. It was brought here from the inland region around the Cetina river when the inhabitants fled in the face of Turkish incursion. The people found shelter in the fortress at Sinj and prayed before the painting. The Turks, who were attempting to seize the fortress, saw the image of an illuminated female figure the night before the Feast of the Assumption, and fled. Since then Sinj has been a place of pilgrimage and the Mother of Mercy, or “Our Lady of Sinj”, is venerated with great celebrations on the Feast of the Assumption. For an organized pilgrimage please contact the Shrine of Our Miraculous Lady of Sinj Fratarski prolaz 4, Sinj, tel. (+385-21) 70 70 10, tel./fax (+385-21) 82 31 00, franjevacki.samostan.sinj1@st.t-com.hr, www. gospa-sinjska.hr.

The Shrine of the Mother of God of Krasno is in Krasno, a lovely old village in the Velebit mountains. There has been a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary here since the 13th century. According to legend, local shepherds found a beautiful flower bearing the image of Mary in the forest nearby. They picked it and took it to the village, but the flower disappeared and reappeared in its original place, on a log in the forest. They tried again and again, but the flower always went back. It was decided that a church should be built on that spot. The central celebrations here are also on the Feast of the Assumption, but pilgrims can come at any time. The Krasno Shrine Krasno, tel.(+385-53) 85 10 07, mob. (+385-) 098 49 23 06.

The Shrine of Our Lady of Sanctuary in Aljmaš, a village on the banks of the Danube in eastern Croatia, was founded in 1704 when Jesuits from the nearby settlement of Lug who had fled when Calvinists took over their church sought refuge in the simple church at Aljmaš for a statue of Our Lady. Both the statue and the church at Aljmaš were destroyed several times by natural disasters or by war. The last time the church was rebuilt was following the Croatian War of Independence, and in 1998 the statue was returned once again to the newly rebuilt shrine at Aljmaš. Pope John Paul II, during his third visit to Croatia in 2003, crowned the statue of Our Lady of Aljmaš with a small golden crown. This is today a busy sanctuary, celebrating the Feasts of the Assumption, the Nativity, and the Holy Name of Mary (September 12). Pilgrims are welcome to visit at any time, but it’s best to call in advance. For information and bookings please call the Aljmaš Parish Offices and ask for Sanctuary Manager Ante Markić. Tel/fax.(+385-31) 59 50 00, www.svetiste-aljmas.hr, zupni.ured.aljmas@ os.t-com.hr.

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The Shrine of the Mother of God of Lourdes at Veprić near the coastal resort of Makarska, south of Split, was founded in 1908 by Bishop Juraj Carić (1867-1921) on the 50th anniversary of the apparition of the Virgin Mary at Lourdes, where she appeared 18 times to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous. At Veprić there is a chapel with a sacristy, an altar on the square, confessionals, Stations of the Cross, a processional route and a building for religious study. Due to the site’s beautiful natural surroundings and its peaceful environment, the shrine is very popular all year round. The most pilgrimages are held on 11 February, 25 March, 15 August, and 7-8 September. See www.vepric. net. The Shrine of the Mother of God of Lourdes Veprić, Makarska, tel./fax: (+385 -21) 61 63 36, e-mail: svetiste-vepric@st.htnet.hr.

The Karlovac area gained a place of pilgrimage in 1987 with the opening of the Shrine of St Joseph at Dubovac.

The shrine is located below an old fortress on a hilltop overlooking the city of Karlovac. This is the most important shrine consecrated to St Joseph in the country: St Joseph was proclaimed patron saint of Croatia in 1687. The main day of pilgrimage is, of course, St Joseph’s Day, 19 March.

Pilgrimages also take place on other saints days related to St Joseph, and indeed at any time (please call to arrange in advance). The Shrine of St Joseph Boškovićeva 36, Karlovac, tel./fax (+385-47) 41 70 31, tel./fax: (+38547) 41 36 49.

The Shrine of the Precious Blood of Jesus at Ludbreg rests on the foundations of its predecessor, which was founded in 1411 when a priest saying the transubstantiation during Mass noticed blood in the chalice. This blood is still kept today in a reliquary in the parish church. Pilgrimages take place all year round, while the main pilgrimage is on the first Sunday in September. Ludbreg is a pleasant small town around 85 km northeast of Zagreb, close to the baroque city of Varaždin, www.svetiste-ludbreg.hr.

Zagreb

If you’d like to visit sites in Zagreb with religious significance, Kamenita vrata (“the Stone Gate”), the Cathedral and the Museum of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac will probably be top of your list. If you have the time to explore the religious aspects o f Croatia’s cultural heritage a bit further, you should also visit St Francis’ Church on Kaptol, where you can enjoy the famous stained glass windows

by Croatian artist Ivo Dulčić, whose work was so groundbreaking that it sometimes incurred the wrath of the church authorities of the time.

The windows, which he made in 1960, depict scenes from St Francis’ song “Canticle of the Sun”.

Also, don’ t miss th e chance to see the south portal of St Mark’s Church in Gornji grad (Zagreb’s “Upper Town”), which dates back to the 15th century and depicts the saints in stone and wood. In the church’s interior you can also see typically powerful works by the great Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović. The Mimara Museum, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of the City of Zagreb also have valuable collections of sacred art.

If you are in Zagreb for August 15, you might like to witness the celebrations of the Feast of the Assumption in one of the Marian churches. You’ll find it’s a lively occasion, with a great many people attending a special Mass and enjoying picturesque fairs with food, drink and music.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Pilgrimages The 600th anniversary pilgrimage of the Blood of Christ at the Shrine of the Precious Blood of Christ The pilgrimage takes place on the first Sunday in

September (this year 4 September).

The Shrine of the Precious Blood of Christ P. Zrinskoga 4, Ludbreg, tel.(+385-42) 81 11 16, www. svetiste-ludbreg.hr The 800th anniversary of the foundation of the Clarissan Order of the Poor Sisters of St Clare The pilgrimage takes place on the feast day of St Clare, 11 August.

St Clare’s Convent Kvatrenikova 167, tel. (+385-1) 373 65 24.

To witness this, try the churches in the Zagreb neighbourhoods of Remete or Stenjevec, or in the following places in the Zagreb region: the Church of the Mother of God of Dol (Dol, near Krašić); the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Kloštar Ivanić, Kupinec (near Klinča Sela), Pokupsko, Nart Savski (near Rugvica), the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Snows in Volavje (Jastrebarsko) and the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Vukovina (near Velika Gorica).

You can also join the people of Zagreb on traditional two-day votive pilgrimages to Marija Bistrica on the second weekend of September.

If you are interested in buying a religious book, prayer book, gift or souvenir, head for Kaptol. On the street that leads north from the Cathedral you’ll find a number of specialist shops selling books and other items on religious themes.

The Mother of God of Kamenita vrata became the patron saint of the City of Zagreb in 1991 on 31 May, the city’s annual celebration day, in the year when this was also the 260th anniversary of the shrine at Kamenita vrata. Kamenita vrata, or “the Stone Gate”, is the only one of four city gates that still survives from the days of the fortified lay settlement of Gradec. This became a special place and a shrine after a great fire in 1731 consumed everything leaving the portrait of Our Lady untouched amidst a pile of ashes. Since then, the portrait has been kept on an altar in a tiny chapel inside the gate, protected by an ornate grille. Many city folk come here to pray and light candles, to seek help, comfort and hope. The atmosphere in the little passages is very special, with the soft light brightening walls blackened by centuries of smoke from the candles. On the saint’s day of the Mother of God of Kamenita vrata, which takes place on 31 May each year, following a special Mass in the Cathedral a procession passes along Bakačeva ulica, across the city square and up Radićeva ulica to the shrine, carrying the portrait of Our Lady, and ending with prayers.

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com August - September 2011

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holy holidays Zagreb Cathedral Zagreb’s Cathedral is one of the symbols of the city, decorating many a postcard and souvenir with its unusual twin towers. It is the largest religious building in Croatia, and is dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and also to St Stephen the King. The Cathedral was built in stages from the 13th to the 16th centuries, and damaged many times by disasters such as earthquakes and fires. The most recent reconstruction of the Cathedral began in the 1980s and work on restoring the Cathedral’s exterior is still underway. In 1997, the grave of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac, an important national and religious figure, was rebuilt to include pictures showing key moments in his life. Pope John II prayed at the grave during his visits on two occasions, since Stepinac is a much loved and respected figure from Croatian history.

The Cathedral’s Organ dates from 1855 and is a listed monument of cultural heritage of the highest order.

The Treasury of Zagreb Cathedral contains a wealth of cultural treasures collected over eight centuries. It mainly consists of gold and silverware, as well as ecclesiastical robes, liturgical texts, instruments, documents, plans and medals. Since the collection was successfully protected from various occupations and attacks, it represents a large and important part of central European cultural and religious heritage covering the period between the 12th century and the present day.

The Alojzije Stepinac Museum Alojzije Stepinac was Archbishop of Zagreb between 1934 and 1946. He presided over the Catholic Church in Croatia both during the time the country was governed by a Nazi puppet regime and was taken over by atheist communist authorities. He is known to have openly deplored the persecution of Jews, Roma and Orthodox Serbs by the fascist government of Ante Pavelić, and is credited by Zagreb’s Jewish community with saving hundreds of Jewish lives at that time. He stood fast against the attempt by Tito’s communist government to detach the Croatian Church from Rome, and paid with his freedom and his life. The fact that he never attempted to seek exile, preferring to meet his fate and fight for the values he believed in within the borders of his home country leads him to be revered as both a religious figure and a national hero. Cardinal Stepinac was beatified by Pope John Paul II on his visit to Marija Bistrica on 3 October 1998. The Museum was opened in November 2007 in the Nebojan tower on Kaptol, close to the Cathedral.

The collection depicts the life of the Cardinal, with personal artefacts, documentation and portraits. A memorial room is also open to visitors at Stepinac’s birthplace in the hamlet of Krašić, near Zagreb.

Museum of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 489 48 79. Q August Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun, Mon on request. September Open 08:30 - 13:00, 13:45 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00, Sun, Mon on request.

The Collection of the Stenjevec Parochial House Stenjevec 9, tel. (+385-1) 373 27 29. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mail & Phones The Croatian National Shrine - The Parish Church of St Mary of Bistrica The largest and most important Marian shrine in Croatia is in the town of Marija Bistrica in the region of Zagorje, some 40km north of Zagreb. The shrine has a long history. The town of Bistrica first appears in the records in 1209, and its Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul was first mentioned in 1334. In 1715, during the time of the plague, a votive alter was built in the church, and in 1731 the church was extended and dedicated to St Mary of the Snows. Today’s stunning Parish Church in Marija Bistrica was built in between 1879 and 1882. It was partly built on the foundations of the old church and the additions were in the neo-renaissance style. A fire broke out while construction was underway on the eve of the Feast of the Assumption of Mary, and the church interior was destroyed apart from the high altar and the miraculous statue of the Mother of God that is kept there. A new altar was consecrated in 1883.

Alongside the shrine is a calvary and 15 Stages of the Cross. The calvary was created by well-known Croatian artists. The first four Stages were built in 1941, and the remaining 11 in the 1970s and 1980s. The complex was completed in 1990.

A great number of pilgrims from Croatia and abroad visit Marija Bistrica every year, and you’ll find market stalls on the impressive town square in front of the shrine where you can buy souvenirs of the statue of Our Lady, of the shrine and of Marija Bistrica. You’ll see the familiar red gingerbread hearts, the making of which is a traditional handcraft in this part of Croatia, and handmade wooden toys which are listed by UNESCO as a part of world cultural heritage.

The Croatian National Shrine - The Parish Church of St Mary of Bistrica Trg pape Ivana Pavla II 32, Marija Bistrica , tel./ fax: (+385-49) 46 91 56, www.svetiste-mbb.hr Accommodation is available in the four star Hotel Kaj (rhymes with “tie”, see www.hotelkaj.com) or in private rooms. In the local inns and restaurants you can try the traditional hearty cuisine of the region, including “zagorski štrukli” - warm cottage-cheese pies. The rolling countryside of the Zagorje region is perfect for exploring on the biking and hiking trails that criss-cross the county. There is a 15km trail called “For Body and Soul”, which is 15 km long and passes through a sculpture park which has been created by members of a carpentry colony which is regularly held here.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel.

Organ Festival

(+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

07.07 Thursday - 22.10 Saturday

City Express Mail

Organ Festival of the Zagreb Cathedral

C - 1, The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27.

The first organ that was housed at the Cathedral dates from the 15th century and over time other organs have come and gone. Today’s organ was installed in 1855 and modernized in 1912 after an earthquake. It is one of the 5 most valuable organs in the world as made by the Walcker Company. Its angelic yet romantic sounds are revived at this event with music ranging from old to the contemporary.

Programme: 11.08.

Ana Butković, flute Mario Penzar, organ Telemann, Bach, George, Peeters, Martin 25.08.

Krešo Fabijanić, trumpet Gorana Vidnjević-Fabijanić, organ Albinoni, Odak, Eben, Dugan 15. 09.

Goran Končar, violin Edmund Andler-Borić, organ Bach, Handel 22. 10.

Ljerka Očić Franz Liszt

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Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location.

The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous

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selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, http:// internetcentar.iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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Getting around Public transport

Taxi

Buses tel. (+385- 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 970, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 16kn flat fee plus 6kn/km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.hr. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction.

Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7.5kuna from your balance.

Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops.

Trains

24hrs), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz. hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open

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Shopping

Getting around Car rental Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 22 22 26/

(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@avis.com.hr, www.avis. com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Budget J-4, Pile I 1, tel. (+385-1) 455 49 43/(+385-1) 455 49 36, zgd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33/ (+385-1) 483 64 66, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa. hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A Smart A-2, Ivana Kukuljevića 32, tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, www.rentasmart.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, rezervacije@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1)

456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi, the trip from town is approx 200 - 250kn or the cheaper option is with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www. plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3).

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 616 02 15, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, zag@czechairlines.com, www.csa.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lufthansa , tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20 for calls within Croatia, (+385-) 62 22 02 20 if you are calling outside Croatia, www.lufthansa.com. Q Open 08:30 - 17:30.

A Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 11 41, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 -

22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Cascade C-1, Tkalčićeva 88, tel. (+385-1) 640 05 90, info@cascade.hr, www.cascade.hr. Q June - August 31 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. September Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Cvjetni trg, tel. (+385-1) 4874-370, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/soping-centar/.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Sunday markets Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg.

Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products?

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. June 13 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25, 384 38 05/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@ bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June September 15 Open 09:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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“A shoo” by Anita Zannotti Štulec

Shopping centres & Malls

Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. August 1 - 15 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Boudoir

August - September 2011

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Shopping Top tips to beat the recession If you’re in the city without two pennies to rub together, never fear! Here are our top tips for things to do in Zagreb which won’t cost you much money at all.

1. Happy hour in the Golf café on “Flower Square” (Preradovićeva 2) - between 07:00 - 10:00 coffee and juices are half price.

2. Entry to the Museum of Contemporary Art is free every first Wednesday of the Month

Museum of Contemporary Art

3. In the Museum of the City of Zagreb, on Saturdays and Sundays at 11:00 you can enjoy a free guided tour, while kids under 7 go free.

4. On the 3rd lake in the Maksimir park, you can hire a rowing boat and spend a lazy afternoon on the water (25kn/30min).

5. Entry to the Croatian Railway Museum (Vukovarska bb) is free. Call (+385-1) 378 28 62 and organise an English language guide.

6. Free open air summer cinema on Strossmayerovo šetalište.

7. Watch the Changing of the Guard in the Upper Town: pick up a programme in the Tourist Information Centre on the main square.

Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1)

481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 30/(+385-1) 492 16 68, llumezi@inet.hr, www. nakit-lumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial.

Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

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8. The city is full of tourists and backpackers, has a rare cosmopolitan feel, and you have the chance to meet new people on an evening out.

9. You can walk around quaint Gornji grad with hardly a soul around to disturb the atmosphere.

10. It’s a great time of year to go hiking or biking around Zagreb County 11. Show off your skills rollerblading at Jarun Lake, followed by a dip, loads of sports, kids’ stuff, food and drink.

12. “U Dvorištu” (Ulica Jurja Žerjavića 7/2) is a place where you can enjoy live music, literary evenings and art exhibitions while you sup organic tea and coffee, beer, wine and other drinks.

13. News for all you sweet-tooths: Cookie Factory in the city centre (Skalinska 3) deals cookies, brownies and cake bars, krispy treats, muffins, cupcakes, banana bread, scones, cobblers, cake pops and biscotti, as well as excellent coffee and smoothies. It‘s finger-lickin‘ good!

14. Head for the Millennium cake shop, where if you buy two balls of ice cream, you get a third, in enticing „California Dream“ flavour, free!

15. On Zrinjevac every Friday from 1 July to 2 September, between 20:30 and 22:30 you can shake your tail feather to the tune of the music of the 60‘s!

16. For a break from the heat of the city, why not head for Zagreb‘s botanical gardens, a veritable oasis of peace and green. What‘s more, entry is free!

17. Many restaurants have cheap lunchtime specials (Žlica & vilica, Sorriso, Kokopeli).

18. Lufthansa Photo Competition - If you‘ve got hold of the latest copy of Zagreb In Your Pocket, check out page 37...

Have you seen this? What are you waiting for: strike a pose and say „cheeeese!“

Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel.

(+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pantheon B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 07, vinoteka.pantheon@pantheon.hr, www.pantheon.hr.

An excellent selection of wines, olive oil, homemade cheese and other fine delicacies to be found in one place. A perfect short stop for tasting Croatian products. If you seek that true holiday experience, make sure you visit their wine bar.

Q July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Slavonica C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 29, kaptol@ecoslavonia.com, www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. August Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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Leisure Health timeline 1355 The first time historical records mention a pharmacy in Zagreb.

1928 A pharmacy called “Kaštel” moved to Zagreb from Karlovac. In 1945 it was renamed “Pliva” Croatia’s most famous pharmaceutical company, bought by GSK in 2006.

1941 The big Rebro hospital in Zagreb was built.

1957 The first indoor swimming pool in Croatia opened, in Zagreb.

Fun in the Sun Summertime is when warm weather and sunshine lift our spirits and recharge our batteries. But summertime, of course, also brings its own health concerns: we hear how the ozone layer no longer protects us from the sun’s harmful rays, leaving us vulnerable to premature ageing and skin cancer.

While the advice is that we should avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, in reality many of us are likely to ignore this. It’s also possible to argue that the health and psychological benefits of being in the sun outweigh the advantages of avoiding it completely. So, suntan creams are vitally important in protecting ourselves, but recent research shows that the sun’s rays can start chemical chain reactions in the most common sunscreen ingredients, benzophenone and its derivatives oxybenzone and benzophenone-3. These reactions release huge amounts of free radicals – a wellknown cause of cancer. People with sensitive skin may also experience allergies to these chemicals.

The good is that there are excellent products which use physical rather than chemical sun filters, common examples being titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, both naturally-occurring minerals. However, other chemicals found in the most popular brands of sun creams can also react dangerously in the sun. The best choice therefore is to use sun creams which contain only natural ingredients, for example, plant oils and extracts, which don’t react in sunlight, and are well tolerated by sensitive skins.

L’Occitane and Dr Hauschka make excellent quality, natural skin care products using only organically grown plant ingredients. Their sunscreens are effective and pleasant to use: containing essential oils, they feel fresh and cool on the skin, smell delightful, and leave the skin soft and supple.

Another summertime irritant which can be combated using natural products is mosquitos. Instead of using aggressive chemical repellents, try a few drops of a high quality essential oil of citronella or lavender in an atomiser to scent the room or terrace. Lavender can be used safely directly on the skin and smells deliciously cooling, as well as keeping insects at bay. If you are bitten, rub a drop of lavender or tea tree oil on the bite to soothe and disinfect the natural way.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. A

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije. hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Health

Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00,

Sat, Sun by request. A

Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.

Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this.

Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Oi be in the countryzoide Still in Zagreb in August? Indian summer tempting you to the great outdoors? There’s no shortage of stuff to do in Zagreb County. Try a trip to Samobor, where you can enjoy the beautiful old town, have a bite of it’s famous “kremšnite” custard slice and visit the ruins of the 13th century old town. In the hills nearby, you can hike or bike, visit waterfalls, caves, castles, palaces, mountains and mountain huts and eat great food. Try the museum in Jastrebarsko and the wine route on Plešivice mountain and swim in the pool at the Jana spring. Visit the palaces in and around Zaprešić , play golf there, ride horses, fly a kite, paraglide, go fish, or enjoy the bird reserve at Crna Mlaka and Zaprešić. Tired yet? No?!!! Head east to the lovely rural region of Turopolje with rural and wooden architecture, try the idyllic wine route in the hills around Sveti Ivan Zelina and try traditional food at the festival in Vrbovec (see “ Gastro events”). Pick up a map from the Zagreb County Tourist Association (C-2, Preradovićeva 42). It’s marked with places of interest.

Stick a pin in and go visit – you won’t be disappointed!

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Leisure Swimming Stuck in the city and can’t get to the sea? Never fear.

Open air bathing opportunities abound. The first place that springs to mind is Jarun, where the pebble beaches may convince you found the real thing. If you prefer, there are open air pools in the city. Try Mladost H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 365 85 55. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00, or Šalata, just north of Vlaška D-1 Šlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55. Open 13:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Pilates Body & Mind Studio Pilates H-3, Ul.grada Mainza 24, tel. (+385-1) 349 04 33/(+385-) 091 541 39 09, studio@bm-pilates.com, www.bm-pilates.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Spa & Beauty

Lifestyle directory Sveti Martin Spa & Golf Resort Grkaveščak b.b.,

Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 31 50 02, info@ spa-golf.com.hr, www.toplicesvetimartin.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Terme Tuhelj Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuhelj, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 14, info@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Top Terme Topusko Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 16, Topusko, tel. (+385-44) 88 60 06, info@topterme.hr, http://topterme.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

Yoga Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr. Q Open Mon 17:30 -18:45, Tue, Fri 11:30 - 12:45, 19:00 - 20:15, Wed 19:00 - 20:15, Thu 17:30 - 18:45, 19:00 - 20:15, Sat 11:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 18.

Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz@berlitz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Emergency health care

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel.

(+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

Veterinary clinics 68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs.

Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Zagreb Expat Information

Cycle Zagreb Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler?

In what is slowly becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town.

The hustle and bustle of cars in the heart of the city as well as having to battle for a car park, isn’t the way to travel. Local government have been proactive in asphalting many of the roads and in doing so, cyclists have been given some extra TLC (tender loving care).

Nowadays, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. The markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers alike. Some of the local traffic lights have even been reserved for cyclists.

For those seeking a recreational ride then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. Keen punters can rent-a-bike or roller blades at Jarun, just look for the small booth located at the Petrine entrance (small lake).

Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00 on weekends and public holidays, weekdays 17:30 - 21:00. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www. pedala.hr, www.bicikl.hr.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a crosscontinental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

“Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+385-1) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagr eb Expat Meetup w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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Business directory

Business directory Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel.

(+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UBLI savjetovanje D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes.

Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 40% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Brokerage houses

Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, auctor@auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50, hita@hita.hr, www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94, brokeri@intercapital.hr, www.intercapital.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31, brokeri@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovi-

ćeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17

36, info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95.

Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www. kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com August - September 2011

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Street register 29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića Franje Račkog

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2 D-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog

E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3

Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska Patačićkina Pavla Hatza

E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4 D-2 D-3

Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja

C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV

E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog

C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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