Zagreb In Your Pocket February/March 2010

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

February - March 2010

Street life N°52 - complimentary copy

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

The photography of Tošo Dabac

Go gourmet

Warm up, drink wine, dine fine!

Contents

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

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Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

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More than just climate stats (not much)

History

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Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

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The 3rd Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival will be held at the Museum of Arts and Crafts on February 12 and 13, showcasing up to 550 Croatian and foreign wines.

Interesting and boring stuff included Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

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Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

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27

Sightseeing

Go Gourmet

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Where to stay A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome

What to see All those things you mustn’t miss

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Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

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Getting around

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Save on shoe leather Transport map

44

Shopping

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Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support

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Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

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Maps & Index Street index City map City centre map Index Country map

50 51 52 54 55

Zagreb nuns in the 1930s through the eyes of photographer Tošo Dabac. See his documentary pictures at the Days of Photography in February and March.

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February - March 2010

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ForeWord So you have just arrived to Zagreb and you’re walking through the city centre, you come across a juggling court jester, with effort you avoid him and as you turn, ‘Ouch!’ a gallant Knight in shining armor pokes his way through the busy crowd, you stumble only to be helped up by a Princess! Now you can’t get that smile off your face! Is it all a dream? Not at all, in fact your timing is perfect as its Carnival season and you simply have to attend the Zagreb Carnival which is a hit in this month’s edition. Don’t be shy to fancy dress.

Besides the carnival there is so much on that we don’t even know where to begin. There are festivals, international concerts and orchestras. As for exhibitions, does the name Vlaho Bukovac mean anything? Film buffs have the annual Test! and ZagrebDox festivals which have become tradition now. There’s ATP tennis and the splendor of ice-skating for the sports minded. Don’t forget to check out our restaurant pages before Valentine’s Day if you’re unfamiliar in where to dine with your beloved other half. So take off the winter mittens as the season of spring is here.

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Download free instant guide! zagreb.inyourpocket.com Cover Story The Days of Photography were set up in honour of the hundred year anniversary of the birth of the great Croatian photographer Tošo Dabac (1907-1970). Dabac’s opus is kept in the photographer’s former studio at Ilica 17, which is now an archive and gallery. The archive co-organises with the Museum of Contemporary Art the Days of Photography, showcasing the work of Dabac together with that of other artists using the media of photography, film and video. Among Dabac’s favourite themes was the life of the Zagreb city streets. It’s a unique perspective on the city, giving you an insight into its true character, so don’t miss this year’s Days in February and March.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Znanje, Zagreb Published 6 times per year

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The year 2010 promises to be another great one here at In Your Pocket. We now publish a record 58 guides and mini-guides across 22 European countries, with more than four million In Your Pocket-branded products printed and distributed annually. The latest to join the list were Kranjska Gora and Otepää: winter capitals of Slovenia and Estonia respectively. This year we will be launching new guides in Venice, Glasgow, Vienna, Kranj, Celje and Bovec, as well as a few other cities we are keeping a secret for now.

We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an IYP. Simply send us an email requesting more info: the address is publisher@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Tošo Dabac: Mocca II Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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arrIVInG In ZaGreB Tourist information

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Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 51/(+385-1) 481 40 53, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area. QOpen 08:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BasICs

international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200kn (start 25kn, 1km/7kn, luggage 5kn). If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train

By bus

Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn.Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane

Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 4 April 5 May 1 June 3 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Customs

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in

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urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel.

456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

75

10

50

0

25

-10 -20

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F M A M J

J

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S O N D

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Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other.

Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy.

The high est peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and BosniaHerzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.32 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09

Exchange rates (as of 02. 02. 2010): US$1 = 5,26kn €1 =7,31kn £1 = 8,35kn

February - March 2010

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HIstorY

CuLture & eVents Jazz & Classical Music Concerts 07.02 Sunday

HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb Feat. Renee Manning McIntyre

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century – 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislas I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislas founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110 000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2008 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

B-4, &TD Theatre, Savska 25, www.hgm.hr. Renee Manning McIntyre is an all-round musician but is most noted for her work with ‘big band’ music. She began her career as an accidental guest with the Mel Lewis Orchestra in the famous New York Jazz Club ‘Village Vanguard’, after the standing ovation from the audience Lewis hired her that very evening.

She has worked with other orchestras and this time joins our very own. Q Tickets 35kn. Box office open 11:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

13.02 Saturday - 20.02 Saturday

Music Carousell

C-2, B.P. Club, Teslina 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 44 44. A classy event that simply gets better and better and this is no exception. This six day blockbuster attracts both Croatian and international bands in addition to top class musicians. See the likes of Little Pigeon’s ForHill Blues and others.

23.02 Tuesday

Jazz Cycle - The Enrico Rava New Quintet

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66, www.lisinski.hr. When you’ve been in the music industry for almost half a decade then little needs to be said! Enrico Rava, who is from Trieste, is a prolific trumpeter and arguably the most well known Italian jazz musician. He has played and recorded his own albums with the likes of Carla Bley, Jeanne Lee, Pat Metheny and others. He tours with German bassist Eberhard Weber and Swiss percussionist Reto Weber. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70kn. Box office open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

07.03 Sunday

HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb feat. Sherisse Rogers B-4, &TD Theatre, Savska 25, www.hgm.hr. This young American songwriter, composer and bass-player has taken the world jazz scene by storm having won numerous international awards. She has produced for jazz greats such as Dave Liebman and Peter Erskine and she also writes classical, world and R&B music. Q Tickets 35kn. Box office open 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Fun for the whole family zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Monika Leskovar

09.03 Tuesday

Monika Leskovar and Giovanni Sollima - Kaleidoskop Soloists Ensemble We Were Trees

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. What do you get when you put these two vibrant double-bass players together? A cutting edge repertoire that endorses numerous musical periods and genres, ranging from baroque to romanticism, jazz, rock through to contemporary music.

19.03 Friday - 04.04 Sunday

Springtime Jazz Fever

C-2, B.P. Club, Teslina 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 44 44. The grooves and melodies will be steaming out of the BP Club doors as a wonderful array of jazz bands strut their stuff.

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February - March 2010

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CuLture & eVents

CuLture & eVents 14.02 Sunday

Depeche Mode

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište, www.lupapromotion.hr. If you missed them last time, then don’t this time! This electronic outfit from England returns as part of their ‘Tour of the universe’. They are one of the few bands to have remained from the so called New Wave era. The have had 46 hit singles and have sold over 75 million albums. What more needs to be said? Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 330 - 390kn at www.ticketpro.hr.

14.02 Sunday

Paco de Lucia

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4. Maestro Paco de Lucia is one of the world’s most renowned and influential flamenco guitarists. He is joined in Croatia by an ensemble including dancer Farruco.

24.02 Wednesday

Gamma Ray! The strange / The Bambi Molesters

Rock & Pop Concerts 04.02 Thursday

The Australian Pink Floyd Show (TAPFS)

I-4, Boogaloo Club, Vukovarska 68, www.boogaloo.hr.

It has taken two decades to finally bring this German power metal to our shores. Kai Hansen is the lead guitarist and vocalist as he and his band pelt out their classics as well as hits from their new album ‘To the Metal’. Fans of the genre will be thrilled to see Freedom Call and Italian symphonic band Secret Sphere as support.

26.02 Friday

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 5, www.lisinski.hr. This is as close as you can ever get to the original and we are not just talking sound, it includes the complete audio-visual experience that Pink Floyd actually does. Established in 1988, this cover act has filled venues and arenas worldwide dazzling audiences with their craft of the Floyd.

The Bambi Molesters

13.02 Saturday

27.02 Saturday

Paradise Lost, Samael, Omega Lithium

I-4, Boogaloo Club, Vukovarska 68, www.boogaloo. hr. Metal maniacs will be filled with delight with three world class gothic metal acts performing. Paradise Lost promote their latest album ‘Faith Divides Us, Death Unites Us’, Samael recently released their album ‘Above’ and Omega Lithium are the toddlers of this trio as they recently formed in 2007 and are known for their robotic guitar riffs and melancholic piano parts. Q Concert starts at 21:00.Tickets 160 - 200kn at www.eventim.hr.

B-4, &TD Theatre, Savska 25, www.sczg.hr. Croatian surf-rock band that have gained international acclaim from playing at the New Zealand Festival to countries across Europe! Upon the release of their new album ‘As the dark wave swells’, the band performs to their devoted fans with what is always a vigorous and jubilant gig.

Fanfare Ciocarlia

Spandau Ballet

H-3, Dom Sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www. tvornica-kulture.hr. Wow! Retro fans will be riveted as one of the most successful bands of the 80’s returns. Initially inspired by the New Romantic fashion, Spandau Ballet formed an authentic sound of retro funk, jazz and pop. With endless top 10 singles such as Gold and True, they now reunite to relive those grand memories of a wonderful era. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 250 - 350kn.

15.03 Monday

Leonard Cohen

J-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište, www.lupapromotion.hr.

Singer, songwriter, musician and poet! The critics credit him for his literary accomplishments with his songs such as Suzanne, Sisters of Mercy and the almighty Hallelujah which have left eternal impressions on fans. His bass baritone voice is full mystique and after five decades of work, fans will be able to see this legend in all his glory. Q Tickets 300 - 700kn at www.ticketpro.hr.

18.03 Thursday

Rammstein

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište. German metal band that originated in 1994 and play a peculiar style they call Neue Deutsch Harte. Their music combines elements of metal, industrial rock and electronic music. Oddly enough, they sing mostly in German and yet have a massive international following. Their live performances are known to get fiery with pyrotechnics.

Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 290 - 500kn. Available at www.ticketpro.hr.

Leonard Cohen

Zagreb In Your Pocket

22.03 Monday

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G-5, Aquarius Club, Matije Ljubeka bb, www.aquarius. hr. This twelve-piece Roma brass band has enthralled audiences worldwide with their fast, high-energy sound, complex rhythms and high-speed, staccato clarinet, saxophone and trumpet solos. Their repertoire includes traditional Roma folk dance music which is known to spark audiences to life whilst also playing a number of international hits.

28.03 Sunday

Tokio Hotel - Humanoid City Tour

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište. When these guys released ‘Durch den Monsun’, just about every German teenage girl fell for these gents. Tokio Hotel is a rock/pop band that has brought new life to the German commercial music scene.

In recent years they’ve clean swept all the music awards in their native homeland and are set to rock across the border.

Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 250 - 660kn. Available at www.eventim.hr.

16.05 Sunday

Metallica

Zagreb Hippodrome, www.lupapromotion.hr. The legendary metallers will stop by Zagreb on their World Magnetic Tour to promote their latest album, Death Magnetic. Like the Rolling Stones, Metallica will play in the open air at the Hippodrome.

20,000 tickets have been released for sale from 300kn, which guarantees you at least two hours of moshing time.

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www.inyourpocket.com Exhibitions November 2009 - September 2010

Mamories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The commanding figure of Duke Josip Jelačić is analysed as well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult figure and a symbol of Croatian independence.

14.12 Monday - 14.02 Sunday

Prayers to Saint Tryphon - Treasures of the Kotor Diocese C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. So rich and yet so little known, the Kotor Diocese reveals its treasures in the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, thus marking 1200 years since the transfer of power of Saint Tryphon the Martyr in Kotor. One of the richest sacral treasuries has opened its doors, showing the opulence of its reliquaries, its precious liturgical robes, its masterful sacral painting and sculpture, its unique musical vernacular and literary collection. The totality of the artistic and spiritual heritage of the Kotor Diocese and the whole Gulf of Kotor will now be on display at a single location: in the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. The Venerated Head of the mighty Saint Tryphon, protector of Kotor and the Kotor Diocese, will also be on view, the first time it has ever left Kotor.

February - March 2010

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CuLture & eVents

CuLture & eVents

17.12.2009 Thursday - 15.02 Monday

21.01 Thursday - 14.02 Sunday

The 2nd display of the Tactile Gallery - Sculpture and painting: Marija Ujević Galetović, Ksenija Kantoci, Josip Račić

Zlatko Kopljar: K13

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.modernagalerija.hr. The Multi-sensory gallery was purposefully established for the blind and people with poor vision. An audio guide provides detailed information allowing patrons to imagine what the art work looks like whilst touching the tactile art piece at the same time. Paintings and sculptures by three greatly respected Croatian artists are presented.

14.01 Thursday - 15.02 Monday

Ink-Not-Ink, an exhibition of contemporary Chinese ink fine art I-2, HAZU Glyptoteque, Medvedgradska 2. A travelling exhibition organized in co-operation with the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China presents to Europe for the first time works by 38 figures from the Chinese contemporary art scene. The central theme is the tradition of ink fine art and the response to explosive growth and globalisation. The artists boldly experiment with new media and technologies, combining western and eastern elements.

17.01 Sunday - 14.02 Sunday

Aleksandar Srnec - Retrospective Exhibition

J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. The exhibition entitled ‘Invisible presence’ allows visitors to get an insight into the fascinating opus of an artist who in his own shy way, had marked the second half of the 20th century in Croatian art especially through research, experiment, and the connecting of different disciplines.

19.01 Tuesday - 12.02 Friday

Teo Oršanič: The reflections of nature

B-2, Photo Club Zagreb, Ilica 29/3. This Slovenian photographer from the town of Brežice exhibits 40 large format photos dealing with mother nature in all her natural beauty.

Entitled ‘The reflections of nature’, the exhibit will temporarily transcend you from city life to the great outdoors.

For Art Museum listing please cheak.. page 39!

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Miroslav Šutej

J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Two decades of connecting fine art with the human body is what Kopljar is all about. K13 is inspired by the architectonic and symbolic dimension of the TEŽ (The Electric Bulb Factory).

This building has a unique industrial production which assists the artist in his work on the phenomenon of light.

26.01 Tuesday - 25.04 Sunday

Modernisation on the edge of an empire: Zagreb industrial heritage 1862-1918

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

Have you ever looked into those corners of Zagreb, the ones nobody notices because they’re kind of ugly, but marvelled in a special way at those old disused spaces dripping with atmosphere? Zagreb has a fine roster of disused industrial buildings that are, apart from being quite splendid, a history lesson in themselves. However, many of them are being lost to the ravages of time and the property developers. This exhibition aims to acquaint its audience with Zagreb’s industrial heritage from the golden days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, to discuss the importance of these buildings from the perspective of architecture, history, sociology and more, and perhaps most importantly, to finally find a way to save these grand old buildings for future generations. The important thing is to learn to love them. If the Tate Modern can be an artistic playground, so can Nada Dimić!

02.02 Tuesday - 28.02 Sunday

Vlaho Bukovac – A Croatian cosmopolitan

C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.galerijaklovic.hr. A collection of works by the renowned artist from Cavtat drawn from leading institutions in Croatia and neighbouring countries, and prepared for exhibition in The Hague is now to be shown in the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. The Hague exhibition was well received by the public and the critics, and its counterpart in Croatia is sure to do likewise.

23.02 Tuesday - 28.03 Sunday

Edo Murtić

C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomisalva 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Over 200 gouaches and sketches with chilling subjects such as “Skeletons” and “Wires from the Prison Camp” drawn from the last war in Croatia will be on show for the first time in the Art Pavilion from 23 February to 28 March. Murtić also uses media such as billboards and video projections to create an exhibition that is an art installation in itself.

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25.02 Thursday

costume of their own design. Step out, be outrageous and partake in the festivities of this grand parade of color, music, imagination and fun.

Iconography of the city

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, www.moderna-galerija.hr. The exhibition Iconography of a City will fill 14 halls on the first floor of the gallery with 200 masterpieces by Croatian artists. Urban themes and city motifs in oils, sketches and graphics, on posters and on photographs are the artistic foundation on which the interdisciplinary character of this exhibition is built (history, literature, film, music, architecture and more). A range of supporting cultural events will be held at the opening and throughout the duration of the exhibition: dance performances, film screenings and book promotions; while professional guides for all target groups will be organised, along with children’s workshops and other cultural activities.

10.02. Wednesday & 11.02. Thursday

Jacques Offenbach: Beautiful Helen

Comedy Theatre (C-1) Kaptol 9, tel. 481 45 66. Mythology meets pop culture! This satirical operetta has a very contemporary storyline as Offenbach makes a parody of the ancient Greek myth, Homer’s Iliad. The roots of the tale are transferred to a new era, the 1950’s as his librettists mock the low passions of the ruling class of their time. Directed by Dora Ruždjak Podolski.

12.02 Friday & 13.02 Saturday

Marko Juraga: ‘Other’s songs, my dreams’

25.02 Thursday - 27.03 Saturday

Isa Rosenberger (Austria) and Kristina Leko (Croatia): Money etc

E-3, Miroslav Kraljević Gallery, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. Two contemporary multi-media artists join forces and deal with the topic of environment in their own respective homelands, the differences and similarities of the two are bridged together in some way. This adds to their already long portfolio of projects completed together.

Modern Gallery

Metropolitan at Lisinski: Giuseppe Verdi: Simon Boccanegra

Opera & Ballet 06.02 Saturday

Metropolitan at Lisinski: Giuseppe Verdi: Simon Boccanegra

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Plácido Domingo rewrites the history books as he plays the leading role of the Genovese duke in Verdi’s exciting political drama that keeps you in awe throughout. In this tragic story of a father and his lost daughter, other stars include Adrianne Pieczonka and Marcello Giordani.

12.02 Friday

Vincenzo Bellini - Norma, premiere

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15.

Storyline or performance, which is more important? Director Philipp Himmelmann values both but he really emphasises the plot in Norma, Bellini’s female character is torn between the sacred duty of serving her own people and love towards an enemy conqueror. The solution is in personal sacrifice.

06.03 Saturday

Variations in F.ado-minor, premiere

Leo Junek, Maternité du Porte Royal, 1940

25.02 Thursday

Iconography of a City C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. 604 10 55, w ww.moderna-galerija.hr The exhibition “Iconography of a City” will fill 14 halls on the first floor of the gallery with 200 masterpieces by Croatian artists. Urban themes and city motifs in oils, sketches and graphics, on posters and on photographs are the artistic foundation on which the interdisciplinary character of this exhibition is built (history, literature, film, music, architecture and more). A range of supporting cultural events will be held at the opening and throughout the duration of the exhibition: dance performances, film screenings and book promotions; while professional guides for all target groups will be organised, along with children’s workshops and other cultural activities.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

B-3, Croatian National Theatre , Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. Choreographer Hugo Viera brings traditional Portuguese fado to Zagreb’s ballet scene. Viera has received resounding reviews as he blends colour and imaginative movements with the elements that are deeply rooted inside the soul of his people; love, passion, mystique, pain and sadness. See theatre - Portuguese style!

21.03 Sunday

Cecilia Bartoli & La Scintilla Orchestra from the Opera in Zürich

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. If you devour your opera well say no more. Cecilia Bartoli has an astounding portfolio and she has just won the prestigious Leonide Sonning Music Prize for 2010. In the words of the jury; ‘her sound is unique, her technique unequalled, and on stage she radiates like Maria Callas’. Bartoli performs with the Zurich Orchestra La Scintilla.

Get in sharp!

Comedy Theatre (C-1) Kaptol 9, tel. 481 45 66. Remember some of the great musicals from the past; An American in Paris, Mary Poppins, The Producers, Man of La Mancha and others... Well you can expect to hear certain songs from these classics as author and director Marko Juraga has cunningly linked them into this charming love story. Starring Dražen Bratulić, Danijela Pintarić and conducted by Krešimir Batinić.

13.02 Saturday

Spli’ski Akvarel

I-3, Dražen Petrović Sports Hall, Savska, www.hnk-split. hr. The return of a classic and famous operetta by composer Ivo Tijardović which combines drama, opera and ballet will receive great interest in Zagreb as it hasn’t been performed since its premiere in 1991. The authors have constantly been improving the show which is a wonderful operetta depicting the life of Split’s hardworking people. Q Tickets 100 - 150kn. Available from January 15 at the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Cibona Fun Shop, Croatia Records in Bogovićeva Street, Roko and Akademija Club at Jarun, as well as at www.eventim.hr.

13.02 Saturday & 14.02 Sunday

Live Pictures

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

This is just a tender warm up for the up and coming carnival season. A pre carnival costumed event. Visitors can listen to live music, taste fresh donuts, get free entry into the museum and learn more about the carnival history through real life costumed characters. Feel free to fancy dress.

18.02 Thursday - 20.02 Saturday, 25.02 Thursday - 27.02 Saturday

Tracks

J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.eurokaz.hr. Barbara Matijević has choreographed a spectacle that pushes us to use our senses beyond our eyes.

In these performances she genuinely uses sounds, songs, compositions, drawings and voice. As in a fugue, these elements intertwine with moments of harmony and counterpoint whereby the audience is asked to listen (and watch) with alertness, precision and a sense of subtlety.

20.02 Saturday - 21.02 Sunday

The 1st Festival of Croatian Animated Film

B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, Students Centre B-4, Savska 25, Tuškanac Cinema B-1, Tuškanac 1, Movieplex Cinema C-1, Nova Ves 11, http://hrvatska-animacija.org/. Is animation your fascination? Then the 1st edition of this biennial festival that presents Croatian animated film production ought to bring out the child in you. See the screenings of premiere films as well as the works of the winner of the Life Achievement Award in Borivoj Dovniković Bordo.

28.02 Sunday - 07.03 Sunday

ZagrebDox festival

D-1, Movieplex, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www. zagrebdox.net. The sixth international festival of documentaries features over 140 films from over 30 countries. This year’s program includes contemporary German documentary retrospectives, controversial themes from around the world, author reviews, special guests and much more.

13.03 Friday

Yalta, Yalta

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 66.

With 534 performances, Yalta, Yalta is the most performed Croatian musical. Following its debut on 28 December 1971 the duo of writers Kabiljo and Grgić received a grand ovation which has not quieted all the 25 years of its performances on stages throughout Croatia. The musical’s last performance with the original cast took place in 1994.

17.03 Wednesday - 27.01 Wednesday

The 3rd Gumbek’s Days

A-2, Histrionski dom, Ilica 90, www.histrioni.hr. The tradition of cabaret in Croatia has been revived through this festival honouring local cabaret legend Mladen Crnobrnja Gumbek (1939-2000). In his name, a week of performances rejuvenates the audience with that typical flair that cabaret has. The final evening is the awards night.

21.03 Sunday - 27.03 Saturday

RAF The Review of Amateur Film

D-2, Grič cinema, Jurišićeva 6, www.revijamasterskogfilma.hr. Besides the opulent main programme, this is where you patrons can learn more about the basics of camerawork and editing through workshops… and it’s a melting pot to meet and greet video artists, producers and those in the field of film. Great vibe, great atmosphere and loads of films to see!

22.03 Monday - 27.03 Saturday

Test festival

B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska 25, www.sczg.hr. This year’s main topic is a big bang, not as a theory but as an incentive for thinking and creative action. See the creative process at work through theatre shows, exhibitions, installations, concerts, software and more. It is here they say that, ‘theatre still hasn’t started to exist.’

Special events 06.02 Friday

Zagreb Carnival Visitors and locals are invited to dazzle the crowds on Flower Square (Cvjetni) and Masarykova Street with an outrageous

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Zagreb Puppet Theatre, Petar Pan

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Fašnik (Carnival) in Zagreb County

Tošo Dabac Photography Days (20.02 - 20.03)

It’s a long haul to Easter, so chase away those winter blues with a big dose of colour, noise and general bad behaviour – it’s time for Carnival!

26.01 - 16.02 The 184th Samobor Carnival Info: Samobor Tourist Association, Trg kralja Tomislava 5, tel. 3360 044, www.tz.samobor.hr, www.samoborski-fasnik.com 13.02 Children’s Carnival – Children’s fancy dress groups Info at Sveti Ivan Zelina Tourist Association and the Zelina Museum, Trg Ante Starčevića 13, tel. 2061 544, www. tz-zelina.hr 13.02 Sveta Nedelja Carnival – Fancy dress parade for kids and grown ups, masked ball, fancy dress competition… Info at Sveta Nedelja Tourist Association, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel.

33 73 919, www.svetanedelja.hr 13 & 14.02 Little Carnival in Velika Gorica and Great Turopolje Carnival Info at Velika Gorica Tourist Association, Kurilovečka 2, tel. 6222 378, www.tzvg.hr 13 & 14.02 Carnival in Zaprešić – Carnival Promenade in the Free Carnival Republic of Zaprešić. Zaprešić Tourist Association, Trg žrtava fašizma 9, tel 3310 309, www. zapresic.hr 14.02 Carnival in Jastrebarsko – Carnival parade. Info at Jastrebarsko Tourist Association, tel. 627 29 40, www. tzg j.hr 14 - 16.02 Carnival in Vrbovec – The 15th Vrbovec carnival parade. Traditional style music and locally produced food and drink accompany the parade. Info at Vrbovec Tourist Association, Trg Petra Zrinskog 23/I, tel. 2791 661 16.02 Carnival in Ivanić Grad – Masked ball, fancy dress parade, exhibition of masks. Info at Ivanić Grad Tourist Board, Moslavačka 11, tel. 288 15 91, www.tzig.hr

Skate culture What do you do when you’re mad about surfing but are stuck on the city streets with not a wave in sight? Nail some wheels to your surfboard and – hey presto!

You can sculpt your silky skills in style. This is pretty much how the skateboard was born back in 1950s California.

Skating took off in a big way in the 1980s, popularised by the laidback, rebellious demeanour of its aficionados. It has, of course, since spread all over the globe, spawning an entire counter-culture of art, fashion and music. Heroes such as professional skater Tony Hawk have crossed over to virtual reality wi th compu ter games making the sport cool even to the most committed couch potatoes.

Even back in the 80s when the Iron Curtain did its best to shut off eastern Europe from western cultural influences, the more relaxed regime in Yugoslavia enabled kids to get hold of boards, music and paraphernalia, and the first skate parks were born here. Centres of urban cool such as Zagreb and Split saw armies of scruffily dressed kids perfecting their skills on any available patch of concrete.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ska te b oardin g h a s often been regarded by poli te societ y as an irri tant, as much du e to t h e sp or t’s affinity with the punk aesthetic as to cheeky skaters whizzing round bemused shoppers on busy pre cin cts. Bu t t h ere’s n o d en yin g the audacity of their aerobatic tricks and it can be a spectacular sport to watch.

If you’re up for busting an ollie with the locals or just checking out who’s got the most gnarly style in Zagreb, truck on down to the Mimara museum – the broad tarmac area in front is where skaters mostly hang out.

Did you know?

Norway banned skateboards between 1978 and 1989, due to the risk of injuries. Skaters built forest skate parks to avoid the plod.

In its 1999 “Urban Warrior” programme, the US Marine Corps tested skateboards as a means of transport inside buildings to detect tripwires and snipers.

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No photographer is more closely associated with Croatia’s visual identity than Tošo Dabac (1907-1970), whose iconic black and white images captured the changing face of the country during the course of a long and fruitful career.

His legacy will be celebrated by the Tošo Dabac Photography Days, a series of events centred around a major exhibition of Dabac’s work at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Born in Bjelovar bu t edu ca ted in Za greb, Dabac was an earl y convert to the glamour of Croatia’s burgeoning media industry, dropping out of university to become MGM’s press officer for sou th-eastern Europe. Photography was first a hobby, then an addiction, becoming a full-time career by the time Dabac was 25. He obsessively documented the street life of Zagreb, capturing the pathos of a city undergoing dramatic social change with his portrayals of market-bound peasants, street-urchins and unemployed drifters. However he also delivered a seductive dose of urban chic, photographing fur-wrapped ladies-abouttown and their trilby-hatted escorts in a way that made Zagreb look cool and sexy for the first time in its history.

First held to celebrate the centenary of Dabac’s birth in 2007, the Photography Days are organized by the Tošo

Dabac Archive, the institution charged with preserving and popularizing the great photographer’s work. The Archive occupies Dabac’s former studio at Ilica 17, and it’s here that many of the events will take place. As well as workshops on the restoration of old photographs, there will also be a seminar celebrating the contemporary Croatian photographers who worked for Polet, the ground-breaking alternative magazine of the 1980s.

The keynote exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art concentrates on Dabac’s so-called Rijeka Diary, a collection of images taken by the photographer during a visit to the Adriatic por t city in March 1946.

Rijeka had spent decades under first Hungarian then Italian occupation, and Dabac was eager to assemble a visual portrait of a city that had only just returned to the Croatian fold. Filled with images of docks, nineteenth-century apartment buildings and factory warehouses, the Diary provided Rijeka with a gritty, hardworking aura that is still associated with the city today.

As with Dabac’s better-known photographs of Zagreb, it’s difficult to think of another photographer who has succeeded in mixing visual style and socially-committed photojournalism with such consummate ease. For more on the Museum of Contemporary Art, see p.40.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10-20kn, free on Mondays.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma

bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu. hr. Gallery of Croatian contemporary culture. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 40kn.

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Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-10kn.

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Small Galleries Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 99. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff.

Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Karas Gallery (GalerijaKaras) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Mirko Virius Gallery (Galerija Mirko Virius)

C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, www. hd-naiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of

Zagreb Dance Centre bright-coloured paintings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 42 47. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Buzančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

(+385-1) 614 01 90, czk-novi-zagreb@zg.t-com.hr, www. czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+385-1) 377 08 96, galerija.vladimira.nazora@kgz.hr, www.kvn. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija.zvonimir@ morh.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Funky professor!

Baltazar is an ingenious, colourful cartoon professor much loved by generations who grew up in the former Yugoslavia. Baltazar’s world is one of fairness and tolerance. There’s no problem that can’t be solved by the kindly professor with a touch Zagreb film, Baltazar of humour and the help of his friends. Thank goodness the Professor is so very, very clever!

Realising that this is a resource of great national importance, the Croatian Ministry of Science, Education and Sports website (www.mzos.hr) has a link so you can write direct to the esteemed Professor. He will answer personally any science-type question you can dream of.

Although Baltazar never really went away – he graces innumerable t-shirts, mugs and pencil cases - it seems

once again he has hit top of the pops. You can watch him on Croatian TV (the morning and evening kids’ slots, Tue/ Thu HRT2), and he’s on air once more in Italy too, where the funny, poignant and educational cartoons are being shown on the popular RAI 3 kid’s time slot. There are also DVDs you can buy in Croatian and in English showing all 57 episodes. A perfect treat for your kids, and for you too if you can’t resist indulging in a little nostalgia now and then.

In fact, Baltazar is a well-travelled gentleman indeed: he is especially well-loved in Scandinavia, and he has reached corners of the globe as far as Iran, New Zealand and the USA. First screened in 1967, Baltazar is one of the most enduring creations of the Zagreb School of Animated Film, a movement that had its heyday in the 1950s and 60s with a stripped-down, low budget style born of necessity but with a close connection to Zagreb’s avant garde art scene. Fans of the animated film of other countries (Czech and Russian spring to mind) will surely love the humble Professor.

Cinemas Movie buffs who devour block-busters or the latest 3D will find Cinestar and Movieplex the cinemas to attend. Those who prefer the alternative and independent productions ought to visit cinemas Europa, Tuškanac and the art cinema KIC. And believe it or not we are pleased to have our own documentary cinema called Dokukino! All films are shown in their original languages with Croatian subtitles.

Ticket range between 10 to 30kuna and you can book in advance at most cinemas. For all schedules check their web sites.

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall.

QOpen 13:00 - 21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb Dance Center, Sandro Lendler

Throughout the twentieth century, Zagreb developed a marked affinity for the avant garde in the visual arts, in music and in dance. Despite the quality of the output of artists in all these areas, these contemporary art forms never had the homes they deserved until this year.

Perhaps overshadowed by the opening of the spectacular Museum of Contemporary Art, the opening of the Zagreb Dance Centre is no less important. It’s run by the Croatian Institute of Movement and Dance, an organisation that has shown its quality and dedication through putting on Dance Week Zagreb, a leading event in this region and beyond, for 27 years.

The centre will provide a meeting point for individuals and groups practising or promoting contemporary dance. There will be a host of programmes to engage the general public with dance as much as possible, including workshops and practice sessions for adults and children in a multitude of styles.

Like the Museum, the dance studio is worth visiting for its architecture alone. It’s housed in a disused cinema at Ilica 10. The architects of the restoration project are the award-winning Studio 3LHD, the result being a dramatic and modern facility that Zagreb dance truly deserves,

Sport Events 20.02 Saturday - 21.02 Sunday

06.03 Saturday - 07.03 Sunday

International Tournament Vladimir Mažuranić Memorial

European Judo Cup

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. International senior tournament in fencing for men and women, includes Junior Female World Cup (20.02.).

04.03 Thursday - 07.03 Sunday Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino.

net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world films. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 10:00 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn.

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Tickets 15kn.

Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Tickets 20-25kn.

Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Tickets 10kn.

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the perfect backdrop for practising and enjoying cuttingedge dance.

If you’d like to keep up with what’s going on at the Centre, visit w w w.plesnicentar.info. You can find ou t abou t workshops and volunteering, and subscribe to a free English-language e-mail bulletin.

M-1, Dubrava Sports Hall, Đure Prejca 2. In addition, it will be followed by a 3 day training. Last year’s competition had 350 participants from 20 European countries.

17.03 Wednesday - 28.03 Sunday

Croatian Badminton International 2010

EPBF / IBPF Dynamic European Championships Zagreb

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www. crointer.com. The International Championship of Croatia in badminton, European Cup series.

A-3, Westin Zagreb Hotel, Kršnjavoga 1, www.biljar.hr.

Fancy a sport of style and grace, then see some of the very best at this European Billiard Championships event.

04.03 Thursday - 07.03 Sunday

21.03 Sunday

EABA Tournament Zlatko Hrbić

International Super Marathon Zagreb-Čazma, From Kaptol to Kaptol

I-4, Boćarski dom, Prisavlje 2, tel. (+385-1) 301 23 31, www.boks-savez.hr. The 5th Memorial International Boxing Tournament.

05.03 Friday - 06.03 Saturday

Zagreb Snowflakes Trophy

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www. croskate.hr. International Competition in Synchronized Iceskating for seniors, juniors and cadets.

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www.cazma.hr, www.has.hr. Get your heartbeats pumping as this is the longest street athletic race in Croatia which is 61km and 350m long, starts at the main Zagreb City Square and ends in the centre of the picturesque town of Čazma.

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Go Gourmet By purchasing a ticket, visitors to the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival will have the opportunity to freely taste over 550 different types of wines including those which have won prestigious Decanter awards. Furthermore, a drop of wine can’t go without a nibble whereby the culinary programme will dazzle guests as renowned chefs from France, Austria, Slovenia, Italy, Turkey and Croatia will cook up a treat with their own respective international specialties to devour.

Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival The 3rd Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival will be held at the Museum of Arts and Crafts on February 12 and 13. The two day gala event will gather up to 550 different Croatian and foreign wines as well as showcasing the winners of the Decanter golden medals from Croatia.

This is a festival that sets the benchmark in enology and gastronomy. The cream of the crop will present their fine produce with 140 exhibits scheduled, 70 of which include top-class wine makers from Croatia, Italy, Slovenia, Austria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Germany and New Zealand.

Enthusiasts will be delighted to hear that the festival is open to visitors from 10:30 until 19:00 each day; and for an educational feel, expert lectures, presentations and cooking shows can be seen and heard whilst sampling.

Connoisseurs and lovers of wine ought to know that special wine tastings will be held on the 17th floor of the Westin Hotel, therefore expected patrons should book their places in advance. This exclusive event will be hosted by Mr Željko Bročilović Carlos, the famous Croatian sommelier who has been an associate at the Wine Festival in Merano for 15 years.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival is intended for food & beverage managers, hotel owners, wine makers, distributors, wine traders, journalists and for all those who want to learn more about the Croatian and international wine industry, as well as gastronomy of the highest quality. The growing stature of the festival is exemplified by the attendance of the Vice-President of the international elite association Institute of Masters of Wine, Mrs Lynne Sherriff as well as leading journalists from major world publications in the wine and gastronomy field including Decanter, Falstaff, Gambero Rosso and many others, all of whom have already confirmed their arrival.

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WHere to staY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 35 30, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb.

Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets up to 5kg free of charge. Q306 rooms (29 suites €370 1500, 254 Deluxe Rooms €270, 23 Club Rooms €295).

PTHAR6UFLGBKDC hhhhh

The Westin Zagreb A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 21 00, westinres. zagr eb@westin.com, w w w.westin.com/zagr eb.

Enjoy panoramic views from this super-delu xe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. Recently refurbished, majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxur y. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines.

All amenities are available. Q 378 rooms (297 doubles €235 - 270, 23 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Offices €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 38 Deluxe room twin €270). POTJHAR6UIFLGBKDC hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469

60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www. arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations.

Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDS hhhh

Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a touristfree environment. Small pets welcome free of charge.

Q149 rooms (4 singles €133, 138 doubles €144 - 166, 3 triples €200, 1 Deluxe Suite €480, 3 Business Suite €254).

PHA6UFLGBKDS hhhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHere to staY As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. (+385-1) 460 91 11, fax (+385-1) 460 93 03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr.

The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their fourstars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (19 singles €120, 19 doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBK hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.bestwestern.com. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets join for a flat fee of 30€. Q100 rooms (36 singles €119, 2 suites €262 - 300, 28 King €135 - 154, 18 Twin €135 - 154, 12 Executive €162 - 185, 4 Superior Executive €202 - 231). PTHAR6ULGK hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q266 rooms (166 singles €134 - 151, 92 doubles €164 - 178, 7 suites €205, 1 Presidental Suite €220).

POTJHA6UFLGBK hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 8. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q280 rooms (229 doubles €165 - 175, 17 Junior Suite €210, 22 Deluxe Suite €265, 12 Family Suite €210). POTHARULBK hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 11, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €123 - 167, 149 doubles €143 - 187, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000).

PHAUIFLEGBKDC hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international. hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant.

If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might

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become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (196 singles 900kn, 196 doubles 900kn, 7 Family Rooms 1300kn, 2 Business Suites 1300kn, 1 Superior Suite 1800kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3000kn).

POTHAR6ULGK hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant.

Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes walk away.

Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (29 singles €130, 88 doubles €170, 3 suites €315, 3 Junior suites €230).

PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info.

Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day.

Breakfast not included: 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159 - 179, 48 Delux Rooms €184 - 204, 13 Delux Suites €314 - 334, 1 Presidential Suite €1555).

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Mid-range Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. No pets. Q76 rooms (38 singles 520 - 650kn, 33 doubles 780 - 900kn, 5 triples 1065kn, 4 Junior Suites 1400kn).

POTJHA hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn).

THABK hhh Galerija G-6, Pogačićeva 9, tel./fax (+385-1) 654 75 70, hotel.galerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.hotel-galerija.hr.

Convenient for drivers, close by one of the main entrance points into Zageb, Galerija is very new, well-equipped, and nice if you like contemporary styling. If you don’t like pastel colours, you might be a bit frightened. Kind and helpful staff. Prices include breakfast. Q18 rooms (16 singles 357 - 400kn, 16 doubles 480 - 510kn, 3 triples 630 - 660kn, 2 apartments 610 - 810kn). PA6LBK hhh

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WHere to staY Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./fax (+385-1) 244 51 38, tel. (+385-1) 244 52 04, vila-tina@ zg.htnet.hr, www.vilatina.com.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park.

Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°2 or 3 north up Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets. Q25 rooms (8 singles 640kn, 14 doubles 720 - 800kn, 3 triples 800 - 980kn). PALGK hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, jadran@ hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location. No pets. Q49 rooms (26 singles €70, 18 doubles €98, 5 triples €121). PTJALGK hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €67 - 82, 83 doubles €85 - 110, 15 triples €90 - 120, 6 suites €120 - 145).

PTJHA6UIFGBKD hhh Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotelstella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Shuttle service to the airport, just a few minutes away, is available by request. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULG hhh

Hostels Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d,

tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravnice-youth-hostel.hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravniceyouth-hostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host takes the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. R Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of ensuite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ad and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 210 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. TJARUG

Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHere to staY The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel.

(+385-1) 600 36 00, fax (+385-1) 600 36 01, info@ themoviehotel.com, www.themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj).

There’s a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. Breakfast included. Q39 rooms (16 singles €50 - 65, 18 doubles €70 - 84, 3 triples €110, 2 apartments €139 167). PAGK hhh

Budget Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67/(+385-) 095 860 64 35, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buzzbackpackers.com, www.buzzbackpackers.com. It’s just a 15 minute ride by tram to the train station and the city center. You want more?

How’s this for service: free air conditioning, unlimited highspeed internet access, laundry room, car parking in front of the hostel, fully equipped guest kitchen and lots more. Q 33 dorm beds, 120 - 400kn per person. PAGW Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel./fax (+385-1) 611 10 62, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg.hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr.

Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €48, 9 doubles €68, 2 Family room €100). PA hh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q26 rooms (9 singles €56, 9 doubles €70, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €112, 2 Twin Room €70).

PTJ6ULNGK hhh Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles 497kn, 8 doubles 705kn, 2 apartments 912kn). PJAILGBK hh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q25 rooms (13 singles €62, 10 doubles €82, 1 triple €102, 1 apartment €82). PARILG hhh Omladinski hotel Remetinec H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 614 00 42/(+385-1) 654 25 39, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostelremetinec@nazor.hr, www. nazor.hr. Run by a Croatian youth organisation, spacious and clean accommodation on the Novi Zagreb side of the river.

A bus gets you to the main train station in 20min. All rooms zagreb.inyourpocket.com

have toilet and shower and accommodate up to three people.

Prices are per person. There’s a cafeteria with internet, a restaurant, and a meeting room for up to 20 people. 10% discount with ISIC card. Q 261 dorm beds, 20 - 28€ per person. HALK Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one.

A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILEGBK hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljenovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60, snjezna.kraljica@sljeme.hr, www.snjeznakraljica.com. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try

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traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €93, 1 8-bedded apartment €159).

PTHA6UIFGBKDC hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme. hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom.com; www.sljeme.hr.

Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €81, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDC hhh

Short term rental Intacta apartments B-2, Gundulićeva 37, tel. (+385-1)

485 42 66/(+385-) 099 242 43 22, 099 242 43 31, fax (+385-1) 485 42 65, office@intacta-apartmani. hr, www.intacta-apartmani.hr. For premium care when away from home, step foot into these first-rate apartments where customer satisfaction is assured. 3 apartments in total, 2 highly suited to professional business types as they include a home office with all the necessary mod-cons to work long into the night. Enjoy the comfort and style of a fully equipped, contemporary apartment and a well-stocked fridge. Management is super attentive and offers discounts for longer stays and special deals for companies. Prices range from €69-79p.day. See website for great details.

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restaurants

WHere to staY Online booking Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Zagreb.inyourpocket.com & Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Eight are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including, kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €85, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Never stop, Nemoj stati D-3, Boškovićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 487 32 25/(+385-) 091 637 81 11, nest@ nest.hr, www.nest.hr. Staying in Zagreb for longer than a few days? Never Stop (NEST) is a short-term apartment rental agency with a delightfully friendly, service-oriented staff and a range of elegant, city centre apartments with all mod cons (including internet access). The minimum stay is three days, and prices drop depending on the length of stay. Cleaning and laundry are included in the price. NEST offer package deals with Hertz for reduced apartment and car rental, and regular clients can join the NEST club to receive other special offers.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Free Downloads There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this print version of our latest guide. We print guides in more than 50 cities across Europe, and In Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for free download, in PDF, at our website. A number of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPaper documents. Just visit our website at inyourpocket.com for all our available downloads.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

46, 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q10 rooms (1 single €29 - 39, 3 doubles €40 - 53, 6 apartments €50 - 75).

PAFGKC

Out of town Gaj G-4, Jezerska 24a, tel. (+385-1) 381 72 22, fax (+385-1) 381 72 25, hotelgaj@hotelgaj.hr, www. hotelgaj.hr. The staff is top-notch and the Scandinavian feel of the place makes for a very comfortable stay. Pets welcome at 5€/day. Q34 rooms (2 singles €62, 26 doubles €84, 1 triple €99, 5 suites €81 - 97). PHA6UFLGKD hhh Paradise Štrokinec 26, tel. (+385-1) 346 49 59, fax (+385-1) 379 45 61, info@hotel-paradise.hr, www.hotelparadise.hr. Located just west of the CBD, this relatively new hotel has all the ticks in the right sections. Comfortable rooms suitable for both the individual and families, fair prices and a delightful restaurant with a buffet breakfast that is sure to please. Q12 rooms (1 single €52, 9 doubles €69, 2 suites €121 - 131). PA6LBK hhh Phoenix outskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel./fax (+385-1) 200 63 33, hotelphoenix@hotelphoenix.com. hr, www.hotelphoenix.com.hr. Your thrill level rises as you walk through this place and are amazed by all that it has to offer. From the classy dining room to the exquisite solarium/ sauna/gym, you will quickly see this place has taken it to the next level. Styling is of the new antique variety and beautiful oil paintings are featured prominently. A great place if you have a car and are looking for a quiet and superb getaway.

Pets by prior arrangement. Q49 rooms (3 singles 540kn, 35 doubles 712kn, 8 triples 900kn, 3 apartments 825 - 975kn).

PTHAFBKD hhh Porin K-6, Sarajevska 41, tel. (+385-1) 668 93 00, fax (+385-1) 660 78 91, porin@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Tasteful décor and proximity to the airport and business districts in south Zagreb make up for the lack of glamour - Jakuševac ain’t Las Vegas (but it is quiet). Meeting and banqueting facilities make it a good choice for business bods on a budget. Price includes breakfast (except apartment). No pets. Q195 rooms (192 singles 250kn, 192 doubles 400kn, 3 apartments 800 - 1200kn). HAFLGBKDC hhh

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business...

Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Service in Zagreb is typically European, meaning very relaxed and non-intrusive. If you are in a hurry, you are best to discreetly attract the attention of your server and state, “Račun, molim” when you are prepared to leave.

In those seemingly hopeless cases (they will present themselves) simply walk to the front desk and pay your bill.

Asian Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre),

tel. (+385-1) 461 56 79, viktor@opium.hr, www.opium. hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an advanced sign of civilisation). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. (70 - 110kn). PA

Bosnian Piterija Tomislav H-3, Selska cesta 161, tel. (+385-1) 364 05 00, www.piterija.hr. “Pita” is a staple of Croatian and Bosnian home cooking, made from filo pastry filled with meat, vegetables, cheese or fruit. Piterija Tomislav also does soups, polenta and pizzas, roast meats and salads.

Comfort food heaven! Free delivery on orders over 30kn.

The Vukovarska location is open 07:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun closed. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. PNB Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. (+385-1) 613 10 26. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

(15 - 220kn). PAL

Chinese

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11

54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (35 - 100kn). PALG Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (50 - 180kn). PTAEGB Kerempuh C-2, Kaptol 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 90 00, kerempuh1@zg.t-com.hr, www.kerempuh.hr. A favourite food hangout of Zagreb’s young professionals and those in the know, this place serves traditional Croatian fare. A fantastic view of Dolac in all its pre-3pm hustling and bustling glory.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 16:00. (15 - 120kn).

PAGB

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Asia D-3, Šenoina 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia86@

zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal.

Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (50 - 130kn). PAG

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Price range Zagreb is pleasantly moderate in its food pricing.

Price Cheap 8 - 35kn

You should expect Pizza, sandwich, fast food, soup, etc. In a thin or traditional atmosphere.

Middle 35 - 80kn Salad, mixed grill, noodles and a main in a charming enough setting.

High 120 - 650kn Superior service, classic styling, exquisite preparation, wine, etc.

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Restaurants Klub Gastronomada C-2, Jurišićeva 1, tel. (+385-1)

482 02 00, klub.gastronomada@gmail.com, www. gastronomadi.hr. The name says it all and don’t be surprised if the next time you return you see a startling change in the menu. You see, the finest ingredients which are in season are used to arrange the menu. So expect nothing but fresh!

The interior is cozy; it’s an unpretentious place with a wide range of wines from different regions of Croatia. Melt away with the desserts which are made according to old Croatian recipes as well as an excellent marmalade made out of baked black olives and cooked by Loreena Meda. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 180kn).

PABW Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, www.konoba-cesarica.hr. Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine.

Probably not your best bet if you ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Pauza C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 98, bistro.pauza@email.t-com.hr, www.restaurantpauza.com. The appropriately named Pauza will give the 30-something business crowd a pause from their working day in a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There are daily specials and tasty desserts (we recommend the cheesecake), all the right size for lunch. And if the return trip to the office isn’t particularly pressing, there’s a fairly solid wine list to choose from, as well. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 90kn). PAG Plješivička klet G-4, Staglišće 23, tel. (+385-1) 369 50 88, info@pljesivicka-klet.hr, www.pljesivicka-klet. hr. All the meat products are made from their home-reared piggies, including delicious loooong curly sausages. Rustic in atmosphere, you’ll have a full tummy and a big smile on your face when you leave, and your meal won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Near Jarun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35 - 85Kn).

PALGB Pod mirnim krovom J-2, Andrije Fijana 7, tel. (+385-1) 232 31 55/(+385-1) 231 62 69, www.pod-mirnimkrovom.com. Under peaceful roofs you will find what many people consider the most fantastic grilled or boiled lamb in the region, not to mention the lengthy wine list which will keep you occupied for hours. A favourite among Zagreb natives looking for a midmorning snack. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.

(45 - 120Kn). PAGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAB Purger E-1, Petrinjska 33, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 13.

Snooty fools will laugh in your face when they see the interior and find that you’re serious about steering them to this place.

Do not feel embarrassed: their baseless preconceptions are their loss and it means a table will always be free for us!

Cheap, local and close to the centre. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 90kn). PAGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Restaurants Stara vura C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 68,

staravura@gmail.com, www.stara-vura.hr. Below the Zagreb City Museum, it’s a great mix of game and seafood dishes served up in a den of brick and darkness that seems to say ‘sunlight is overrated’. After your pupils adjust you’ll be quite happy to be here, that is until the bill arrives and you realise you have to run to the nearest ATM (tragically it’s quite a way off). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.

Closed Sun. PAE Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80Kn). PA Tip-Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49.

A clear example of content over style, Tip - Top offers a very tasty spread for a minimum of kuna. This place is a local favourite, a spot for spirited conversation or an evening paper.

QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAG Trnjanka D-4, Trnjanska cesta 31, tel. (+385-1) 611 96 85, www.restoran-trnjanka.hr. The lamb is famous and authentic as can be - prepared to spend as much time hunting for the meat amongst the ligament and gristle as you do actually eating. Once it has been found it is undeniably tasty. The decor is forgettable. (55 - 95kn).QOpen 10:00 24:00. PALG Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05.

You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 65Kn). PAGB

Istrian 100% Istra (Kod Pavela) Gračanska cesta 46, tel.

(+385-1) 467 50 36, stopostoistra@yahoo.com. Walk to the foot of the Sljeme hills and there you will find a Mecca of Istrian specialities conveniently close to Zagreb. A selection of the region’s finest wines, the fritula dessert and funny-shaped pasta - each custom designed for its accompanying sauce - and those much coveted truffles will all have you dreaming of lazy Istrian days by the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (60 - 140kn). PALGB

Fast food Hallo Kinez A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 364 60 81/(+385-) 099 364 60 81, www.hallokinez.com. Now your favorite Chinese specialties can be delivered straight to your table or wherever you eat? QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Horseburger H-4, Savska 179. Do you love your burgers but are willing to try something new? Now this place is not in the very city centre, it’s located on the way to the Jarun Lake or Arena, near the old pedestrian Sava Bridge. Drive in, or should we say gallop on in to this location where you can have a different burger or ćevapi with classical and fresh additions. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

La Salata C-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 795 18

86, www.lasalata.com. The name says it all! There is a fast food salad bar in the alley at the beginning of Jurišićeva Street. If you fancy the greener foods in life then you can try the various tasty salads made from fresh vegetables and fruit.

Sandwiches, different pies and quiche Lorraine also served.

It’s a quick healthy lunch, and good for the price. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (14 - 55kn).

McDonald’s D-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 08, jurisiceva@hr.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.hr. The tram was crowded and a generous scent of unfiltered human body odour pervaded into every crevice. Just then some jerk with a golden-arched to-go bag entered the car. The smell of pure fry immediately overwhelmed the stench and quickly had everyone in the car salivating to the floor-boards. That, dear friends, is the freakish and almost terrifying power of the McDonald’s french fry. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (15 - 30kn). PAGBW Pinguin Sandwich Bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 46. Recently expanded by a few cubic millimetres, Pinguin has glammed up its menu to include hard-to-find deli items and designer bread. Still the best and healthiest fast food option in the heart of Zagreb. The outdoor stools are a nice perch from which to watch street people and theatre goers pass by. Q Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. (15 - 30kn).

Rubelj grill B-2, Frankopanska 2d, tel. (+385-1) 484 92 57, www.rubelj-grill.hr. If you were looking to sample the Croatian offering of grilled meats, this is where you start.

Superb and inexpensive; sausage is integral. Delivery service available. Also at C-2, Dolac 2, tel. 291 14 11. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (20 - 60kn). PAG

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Greek Hellas C-1, Opatovina 35, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 51,

info@hellas.com.hr, www.hellas.com.hr. Located in Opatovina near the Franciscan Church, this is the only Greek restaurant in Zagreb. The main part of the restaurant has an open fire place. A bar is on the ground floor, while on the open terrace on the first floor you can enjoy the spectacular view and the intimacy of the old town.QOpen 11:00 02:00. Closed Mon. (41 - 80kn). JAIEB

Indian Maharadža C-1, Opatovina 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 43 05,

www.krishna.hr/maharadja_home.html. Maharadža is a place that brings us tears of joy every time we re-discover it, for it’s so dam good it feels like the first time every time! With an impressive array of Indian options including a number of superb curries, the cooks know how to satisfy your tummy bored with the same old crap. It’s well spiced and will have you sweating in no time. The interior gets you into relax mode immediately. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 80kn). PAG

International Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@ marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice – a perfect dessert!QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG

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restaurants Mano I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32,

mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines.

Reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). PAB

Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, info@marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (40 - 160kn). PAL Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11,

info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (85 - 140kn). A

Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 ( Hotel The Regent Esplanade), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels. com. Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart.

QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn).

PAB

restaurants Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26,

info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr.

Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 130kn). AGB Canzona E-3, Ivana Šveara 9, tel. (+385-1) 461 77 77, www.canzona.hr. Boasting one of the most fun interiors in town, the menu is almost startling in its breadth. A great option if you`re staying at the Sheraton. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. (+385-1) 617 75 45, fellini@ fellini.hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location make it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAB NEW

Luca’s I-3, Vukovarska 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60.

If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch.

We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. N Piccolo Mondo C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-1) 481 86 13, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik. hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Lodged in the front of the Hotel Dubrovnik, this high-quality house of Italian cuisine offers one of the best views of Trg Jelačića it is possible to grab whilst stuffing your face. Innumerable pasta dishes are rivalled by a small selection of meat and fish and an even smaller wine list. Then again, quality is often the victor when quantity is put to the sword - and here you are paying for quality despite that relaxed and informal setting. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

(40 - 60kn). PA

www.inyourpocket.com Mmmmm... cookies!

Fond of Christmas cookies? Can’t be bothered to make them? Try the following places for munchsome sweeties: Cukeraj G-4 Pakoštanska 12, tel. 302 01 54. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations.

QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, 12:00 - 20:00.

Horak I-3 Ilica 160, tel. 370 16 80. There’s enough sugar, sweet butter and sweet cream to produce an instant cavity or two or five. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Ivica and Marica C-1 Tkalčićeva 70, tel. 481 73 21.

Fantastically delicious, healthy and vegetarian. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Karamel J-3 Jakova Gotovca bb, tel. 466 44 87.

Various cheese and cranberry cakes coated with caramel and chocolate. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 14:00.

Le kolač E-2 Petretićev trg 3, tel. 466 21 76. We recommend you make a trip for a pick’n’mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Meli H-3 Dubovačka 17, tel. 369 75 39. So fresh and tastes like home made - worth the trip to Trešnjevka.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Millennium C-2 Bogovićeva 7, tel. 481 08 50. Many people find their loose cookies delish, and their walnut torta is great. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 -23:00.

Orient J-2 Maksimirska 34, tel. 231 53 23. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Piece of Cake E-1 Petrova 66a, tel. 231 99 88. This funky cake shop does deliciously light cakes. Try their Žarbo torta - a feast of chocolate and walnuts. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. Šarlota H-3 Ilica 205a, tel. 390 71 11. Cakes made for any occasion. QOpen 07:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. Torte i to C-1 Nova Ves 11 (Centre Kaptol) tel. 098 61 34 61. A selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

Vincek C-2 Ilica 18, tel. 483 36 12. Probably Zagreb’s most popular desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Zdravljak Sršek A-3 Andrije Žaje 43, tel. 309 13 62.

Their pite (filo pastry pies with sweet and savoury fillings) are some of the best in town. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Vapiano K-4, Radnička 37C, tel. (+385-1) 618 89

98, vap.restorani@zg.t-com.hr, www.vapiano.hr. This worldwide franchise hits Zagreb and its big glass walls offer a wide range of pastas, salads and pizza. If you wish to have a bite in a short time and have your food freshly cooked in front of you, then this is the place. Save something for dessert as there are unavoidable Italian sweets including the cookies Pasticceria San Marco. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 60kn). PAB

Japanese Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol),

tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you!

The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 17:00. (80 - 180kn). P

Lunch on the cheap Mimice D-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s walls. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (14 - 33kn). PN Zalogajnica “Kod Duje” J-3, Martićeva 62, tel. (+385-1 ) 461 06 43, dujo.renic@zg.t-com.hr. If you’re zagreb.inyourpocket.com

east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Kvaternikov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection of meaty and bean stews. Call for delivery. QOpen 06:00 23:00. (18 - 55kn). AB

Mexican Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).

PAEGB

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On you way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recomended. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30.

(40 - 105Kn). ALGB

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com February - March 2010

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CAFéS

Restaurants

Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, sestinski.lagvic@zg.t-com. hr, www.sestinski-lagvic.hr. This folksy restaurant provides you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 115kn). PALEGB Stari puntijar D-1, Gračanska cesta 65, tel. (+385-1) 467 55 00, stari.puntijar@zg.t-com.hr. One of the top wine lists in town and the expertly seasoned wild game give you a reason to head for the mountains only a few minutes drive from the city. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 160kn).

PALGBS

knowledgeable staff will direct you to the best of the day’s catch, cooked with inspiration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 400kn). PAGB Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (100 - 300kn).

PAG

Out of town

Mu steak & chop house I-4, Avenija grada Vukovara 72, tel. (+385-1) 631 00 90. Imagine a huge, open room filled with relaxing music, a woodsy décor, and an attentive wait staff done up in slick, black and white duds bustling about. Add on a solid steakhouse menu offering steaks of all kinds and the sides you like to go with them and you’ve got Steakhouse MU! QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

(30 - 180kn). PALGB

Grgosova spilja Otruševec 17/4, Bregana, tel. (+385-1) 337 58 88. How about a walk in the hills around Samobor, a visit to the Grgos caves (on the road to Otruševac), and a superbly priced meal in this famous restaurant? Classic meat dishes come in portions that have table legs and diners groaning. You’ll leave with a doggy bag, and your mother will be proud of your new “healthy” look. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ALB

Pizza Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven.

This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). ABS Strossmayer J-4, Bednjanska 14, tel. (+385-1) 617 06 07, info@pizzastrossmayer.hr, www.pizzeriastrossmayer.hr. A new location just behind Ulica Grada Vukovara, near Lisinski and the main train station. A goodlooking place, nice and light and modern, perfect for a working lunch. Also a pasta, big salads and a grill menu. Delivery.

QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (28 - 40kn). PNGB

Seafood Gašpar I-2, Nova Ves 4, tel. (+385-1) 466 69 99, restoran.baltazar@zg.t-com.hr, www.restoran-baltazar. com. From the same stable as Baltazar, and with the same high standards and an interior styled like a luxury liner in polished wood. Gašpar specialises in seafood, and the Zagreb In Your Pocket

Steak Houses

Tapas bars Freixenet wine & Tapas bar K-4, Radnička 57, tel. (+385-1) 618 76 72, tapas@kc.t-com.hr. Viva España!

Beat the herd of bulls and head on down to Radnička Street where there is a modern, yet simply decorated bar which offers Spanish cuisine; small bites of mixed bruschetta, bolas de mozzarella, cream catalane and much more. They have an excellent choice of foreign wines, whilst Croatian wines prevail in the white wine section. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 95kn). PAB

Vegetarian Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.

biovega.hr. Just refurbished, Nova now offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultrahealthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions - definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PAG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/(+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www.vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 65kn).

AGS

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee. The fifth food group. That brown line that traces the dietary border of the food pyramid. Where would we be without it? Well, probably without this month’s Zagreb In Your Pocket for a start. We would also be without the enlightenment, the pyramids, and the occasional heart palpitation. If you can’t live without coffee, you’ve come to the right place. Zagreb’s love affair with the coffee bean is outdone only by the entertainment derived from the art of drinking it. Visitors to the national’s capital are forever stunned by the sheer number of cafes spilling onto the pavement, resplendent in their multitude of shapes and sizes (sometimes no bigger than a walk-in-closet), and their proximity to one another. If you’ve experienced the joy of the Zagreb coffee break, just short of dogma in this city, then you’re familiar with its gregarious customs - people ricocheting from café to café, all hours of the day and in all corners of the city. To drink coffee here is to be a disciple of civilization, sipping cheek by jowl with the rest of polite society.

Aquariusnet Café D-3, Kralja Držislava 4, tel. (+385-1) 461 29 19. If you are on the way to an exhibition at the Croatian Society of Fine Arts, (also known as ‘Džamija’) and you’re craving that coffee break, then Aquariusnet is distinctly relaxing and somewhat cool. It is also a great place to shoot some pool. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Babbar C-2, Petrinjska 7. It may rock Thursdays to Saturdays when a DJ plays hip hop and house music, but early in the week it’s a friendly, pleasant place to quench your thirst. You’ll find it just a couple blocks south of the main square. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00.

Closed Sun. PJ Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.

The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why.

This comfy, little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Cup ‘98 C-2, Petrinjska 4. Paying homage to the Croatian achievement of 3rd place finish in the World Cup of the same year, Cup ‘98 is only a penalty kick’s distance away from the goal named Trg bana Jelačića. Give your morning a dirty slide tackle, and then dribble your way into the heart of Zagreb (just dont get any on your tie). QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GB Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 527 99 90, nik@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PG Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the zagreb.inyourpocket.com

queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P Gavella B-2, Frankopanska 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 53. Inside of the Gavella Theatre, artistic sensibility was passed down to this cafe. We think you’ll find it an extremely satisfying expanse. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 01:00. PG In spe caffe A-2, Ilica 209, tel. (+385-) 098 664 41 02.

Get in early as it’s hard to find a seat for that morning coffee.

With great staff and a fine interior you’re guaranteed to enjoy your time here no matter what time of day you visit. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day.

The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33.

What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which has been decorated exquisitely without being tOo over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock wither in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59.

Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunch hangout.

Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Pušlek - Cvjetni trg C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 76. Opposite Bulldog, there is a different kind of café which offers an entirely different experience. A socialist interior attracts plenty of visitors, especially intellectuals and students. In case you’re lucky to get a window seat, you can enjoy the slapdash of Zagreb street life. And please, make sure you have some change in case you need to visit the toilet to make “baka” happy! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and artist-stroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 02:00.

February - March 2010

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nIGHtLIFe

Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva, info@pierottijeva11.

org, http://pierottijeva11.org/. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. There’s not much to it: two chambers of bare concrete walls, a scattering of chairs and sofas, and a makeshift bar. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. QOpen , Fri, Sat 21:00 - 02:00. P Krivi put B-4, Runjaninova 3. A staple for college students, this bar wedged behind the Zagreb Botanical Gardens is a smoke filled, cheap swill serving, gem of a watering hole. With indoor bench seating and a terrace to boot, this is a haven of the alternative scene. Good tunes on the sound system too!

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.

Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@ kset.org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. E Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00/02:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00/04:00, Sat 12.00 - 02:00/04:00.

Purgeraj D-1, Park Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through The Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. QOpen 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PEB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

nIGHtLIFe Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37.

This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Runa C-1, Opatička 5, tel. (+385-) 095 871 34 33/ (+385-) 095 838 61 32, www.runa.hr. Don’t let the chains suspended from the ceiling make you nervous. Runa’s a place where even a square can feel welcome, especially with the help of its fine selection of domestic and international beers.

If the conversation lags, just lean back, close your eyes and tap your toes along with the grind core, death metal, black metal, thrash metal, heavy metal, nu metal, ambient, goth, dark-electro, and industrial goth music blasting from the juke box, or play a little fussball on the table in the corner. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. PJ Soba H-3, Magazinska 7, tel. (+385-) 095 910 89 10, www.udruga-soba.hr. In a city full of eccentric music bars, Soba (‘The Room”) fits in rather nicely. It’s in a eccentric location for a start, occupying a gloomy-looking split-level apartment grafted onto the roof of a garage. Inside, the odd mixture of timber beams, bamboo matting and mix-and-match furniture is a prime example of what happens when the interior designer loses interest somewhere between the second and third bottle of Pelinkovac. Attracting the same kind of mildly frightening but fundamentally amiable people who regularly pack out Krivi Put, Soba is particularly busy on Fridays and Saturdays when local bands play live. It’s also one of the few bars in Zagreb which is right next door to a railway line, so if you’re not particularly interested in the booze or the music you can at least use the large window at the back to do a bit of trainspotting. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front.

Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 24:00. PEB

Bars Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B Crazy Horse E-3, Šubićeva 55/I, tel. (+385-1) 457 23 88, ludi.konj@zg.t-com.hr. Sometimes the best bars are in out of the way spots that require a little searching. Crazy Horse fits into that category. Housed on a street that looks more likely to have industrial workshops than bars, a trip through the gate and up the stairs reveals an excellent space full of gleaming wood and comfy, sofa-style seating at the tables. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PGB Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13/ (+385-) 091 566 67 78, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr.

With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737.

Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2.

Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 00:00. PA zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Casino Casino City B/C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (The Regent

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 450 10 00, zlatko@casino-city.t-com.hr. Centrally located in the beautifully refurbished hotel The Regent Esplanade, a comfortable club casino with five roulette tables, five card tables, slot machines and a VIP area for those more discreet gambling moments. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PA Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, Casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette,

black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny restaurant that works from 10:00-02:00. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. major.hr. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on certain weeknights. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

www.inyourpocket.com Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52, tel. (+385-) 098 67 23 38, www.funkclub.hr. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. And if that’s not enough, muscle your way to the far side to see the city’s newest gallery space. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 26 12. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better!

Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20 - 30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it?

Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.

PALG

Become a fan of Zagreb In Your Pocket on zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each priding a different sound.

Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin.

Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Gjuro II J-2, Medveščak 2, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 26, www.g juro2.hr. This club close to the centre has something for you almost every day of the week. Start your weekend early with Tuesday night ‘Art&Heart’, for a nice and quiet evening drink. Wednesday is for ‘R’n’B Confusion’ and Thursday gives you ‘Business Class’ with a 24 and up crowd, loving the music of their generation. Friday is a ‘Mash revolution’ with funk,soul and urban beats. Close your weekend on Saturday with ‘Georgeous Gjuro’ with the best in pop, r&b, and commercial house. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. P Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, www. lemon.hr. Located in the centre of the city across two floors. The lower level is made for those who were born to bop and dance as house music fills the air on Wednesdays and weekends. The upper level is more spacious with after work parties and easy, jazz lounge music to soothe to the groove! Minimalistic interior with very few details and an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails, champagne and expensive Croatian wine making this place a tad pricey. No under 21s, free entrance. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00.

No. 1 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 89. Small and very colourful, it boasts a crowd of regulars that are of average size and very colourful. Music pumps and grins widen as the evening wears on. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. February - March 2010

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WHat to see

nIGHtLIFe Ritz Cabaret C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-) 099 660 71 82/(+385-) 091 612 12 03, info@ritz.hr, www.ritz. hr. The legendary Ritz Club on Petrinjska Street 4 has been revamped into a stylish, classy and exclusive club that will meet your highest expectations. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 05:00. PA Saloon B-1, Tuškanac 1a, tel. (+385-) 091 586 29 64/ (+385-1) 483 49 03, saloon@saloon.hr, www.saloon. hr. The famous old night club in the city centre provides great entertainment on two separate floors. Fridays you can ‘Flashback’ to the retro sounds of the 80’s and classic hits of the 90’s, whilst Saturdays present the very best in Croatian music. The Logic floor gives you electronic beats, and if you still have the energy to dance at 04:00, come Sat or Sun morning and they will trance you with the latest in progressive House, Electro, New Rave and House sounds. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.

Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-) 091 945 00 37, info@sirupclub.com, www.sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJ’s. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

The Gallery G-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, Lake Jarun, tel. (+385-) 099 444 24 44, info@gallery.hr, www.gallery. hr. One of the nicest bars/clubs in Zagreb. Would you like a cocktail, or a bottle of champagne to drink while dancing to world famous DJs? Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

PAGB Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAE

Cocktail bars Hemingway B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 56/

(+385-) 098 980 50 00, zagreb@hemingway.hr, www. hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact, your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door. This is Zagreb’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in “Cocktail”?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAG

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04/(+385-) 098 929 92 98, www.bacchusjazzbar. net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. GB B.P. Club C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 44 44, www.bpclub.hr. Welcome to one of Zagreb’s greatest jazz clubs! This place offers jazz music every night of the week, right in the centar of Zagreb. BP also has lots of concerts with wonderful performers from all over the world. If your thing is jazz music then this is the place to be. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. B Jazz Club B-2, Gundulićeva 11, raefria@yahoo.com. For a cool and cosy night out, take yourself down to this basement level jazz bar, it’s big on sound and has a constant program of live bands. Exposed brick and candlelight make for an intimate encounter, so bring your friends or lovers. Closed on Zagreb In Your Pocket

Sundays it can, however, be rented out for private parties and also hosts photographic exhibitions. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.

Closed Sun. EG Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Pubs Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098

982 84 28/(+385-1) 481 17 31, dobarzvuk.kontakt@ gmail.com, www.dobar-zvuk.com. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. N Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 93, dublinpub2003@gmail.com, www.dublinpub.hr. The ‘Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem.

Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Godot A-4, Savska 23, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 77. When you start begging the waiter for some bangers and mash (like mommy used to make) you’ll know this pub attempt has succeeded. It’s near to the student centre, thus the crowd tends to be on the young and hip side. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss period style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Movie Pub I-4, Savska 141, tel. (+385-1) 605 50 45, info@the-movie-pub.com, www.the-movie-pub.com. Do you like beer? Tuborg, Pan, Carlsberg, Guinness, Kilkeney, Bellevue, Kriek, Beck’s, Heineken, Leffe, Harp, Hoegarden, Ožujsko and Stella. That’s the list of beers that this place has waiting for you, plus two additions that make a night out at Movie Pub particularly inviting: the ‘Karaoke King Show’ on Thursday nights and, just in case a night of drinking and singing makes the trip home an impossibility, The Movie Hotel, complete with 20 rooms right above the pub. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PAE Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you’re not wearing your hottest gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large “pub” - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PGB

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Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheatsheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa

Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city.

There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a

country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski

park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Home to the city zoo! www.zgzoo.com. Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00.

Admission 20-30kn.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery.

Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a

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monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 8kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg

svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

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WHat to see

Curiosities Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12,

javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world.

Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.

The Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) C-1, Kamenita bb. The oldest pharmacy in

Zagreb, it’s a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much like a bar or café today.

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C3/4. A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical

French Pavilion Though it has fallen into a state of disrepair today, it was originally a one-of-a-kind in all the world (reconstruction plans are in the works). The reason for its unique quality?

The roof is an inverted cone shape (point down, like an ice cream cone), a bizarre and very curious phenomenon indeed. Architectually curious folk from all over the world come to Zagreb to see this. It was built by Bernard Lafaille in the mid 1930s as part of a competition, who said that his project is representative of the avant-garde construction of the period. Legend says that Lafaille became enraged when people claimed it wasn’t a sound design, and to disprove their doubting he took a bicycle to the roof and rode around up there for hours. The building was sponsored by the French government and was initially used by the French automoblie manufacturers as a showroom. As of late, it was used as a theatre, and in 1995 the famous writer Pascal Bruckner came to check it out to premier his movie Bitter Moon and was absolutely thrilled by its design. The French Pavilion is located in the back yard of the Student Centre (Studentski Centar), next to the &TD theatre (B-4).

Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHat to see gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion.

This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. Befitting its 95year-old history, the Croatian Observatory is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust.

For organized touristic tours admission is 10kn per person.

Q Open Tue, Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri 20:00 - 22:00.

Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.

Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood.

The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Landmarks The locals feel the following are somehow representative of their culture. Either that or they passionately attempt to deny their relevance. In any event, here they are.

The Croatian State Archives (Državni arhiv) B-4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, hda@arhiv.hr, www.arhiv.hr. On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb. This building now houses the Crotian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. Tour is 20kn per person. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 140,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent adress, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) B/C-2, Strossmayerovo

šetalište 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 68. If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday.

This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison.

Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon.

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00/(+385-1) 480 00 00, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i

obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

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B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hrskolskimuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@ etnografski-muzej.hr, www.etnografski-muzej.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. Meštrović Atelier (Muzej Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/tehnicki. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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maIL & PHones

WHat to see The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@zg.t-com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it is Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn.

The Museum of Post and Telecommunications (Hrvatski muzej pošte i telekomunikacija) D-2,

Jurišićeva 13 (entrance on Palmotićeva), tel. (+385-1) 491 15 89, HTmuzej@hpt.hr, www.mdc.hr/ht/hr/.

A small display, you will be overjoyed to learn about the workspace of phone operators in the middle 20th century.

QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Free admission.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1,

Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-gradazagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com

MSU

Museum of Contemporary Ar t (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu. hr. So what form of entertainment is currently drawing the biggest crowds in Zagreb? Musicals? Rock concerts?

First-division football? No, it’s actually modern art. When the brand-new Museum of Contemporary Art officially opened its doors on the evening of December 11 an estimated 15,000 people surged through its portals. Since then, the art-hungry human deluge has shown no signs whatsoever of abating.

What makes this all the more remarkable is that the museum collection contains little in the way of well-known international artists, concentrating instead on quirky, not-sure-what-it’s-trying-to-say exhibits by artists you’ve probably never heard of. The collection isn’t arranged chronologically, and the open-plan nature of the interior ensures that there’s no set order in which to tackle it.

However this refusal to toe the line is exactly what makes the museum so refreshingly different. Rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself.

The country experienced an explosion of abstract art in the 1950s, and this is the obvious place to start if you want to put Croatian art history in perspective. Painters

Zagreb In Your Pocket

such as Ivan Picelj, Vlado Kristl and Aleksandar Srnec produced vibrant jazzy canvases in this period, injecting their art with a mania for geometrical precision that wasn’t so visible in western works of the same period. Croatian abstract art reached its peak in the person of Julije Knifer, whose trademark motif of a single black wave or meander can be seen in galleries all over Central Europe – and is well-represented here.

From the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures and sphinx-like riddles, and it’s here that the collection really gets into its stride.

A fram e d l et ter from ar tist Braco Dimitrijević reveals that he dozed off in a gallery for three hours in 1971, and subsequently presented his sleep as an artwork to the curators involved.

A mbi gu ous commentaries on the world and its absurdities continue with Mladen Stilinović’s purple flag emblazoned with the words “an artist who cannot speak English is no artist”, and Vlado Martek’s map of the USA labelled with the word “Balkan”.

Croatian conceptual art could be touchingly personal too: Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - rather like an eerie premonition of Facebook.

The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt.

QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.50kn, Abroad 8.00kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.80 kn, Abroad 3.50 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed

Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, http:// internetcentar.iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

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GettInG around

Public transport

Train schedule

Buses tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-1) 060

From Zagreb No. 413 211 315 241 205 201 212 210 498 212 210 498 983 981 551 500 700 702 521 525 825 994 3004 3014 240 158

10 00 01, www.zet.hr. Bus and tram trips use the same tickets, which can be purchased in the same places. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Taxi Taxis should only charge a 19kn flat fee plus 7kn/ km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385) 970, info@radio-taksizagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia.

www.inyourpocket.com Petrol stations (0 - 24) Ina Dubrava M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. 291 26 01, Ina Heinzelova K-3, Heinzelova bb, tel. 244 14 34, Ina Jagićeva A-3, Jagićeva bb, tel. 377 44 23, Ina Langov trg D-2, Langov trg 13, tel.482 85 91, Ina Špansko F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. 389 85 99, Ina Miramarska C-4, Miramarska bb, tel. 611 01 25, Europa Mil H-3, Zagorska 10, tel. 364 35 46, Ina Stupnik East H-5, Jadranska avenija bb, tel. 655 73 30

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dep. 06:03 17:10 23:55 04:56 09:58 15:45 07:00 13:00 21:10 07:00 13:00 21:10 07:20 13:00 18:20 06:50 12:35 16:50 06:50 15:22 22:55 07:05 09:33 18:03 23:35 07:25

Arr. 12:25 23:21 06:21 10:59 16:09 21:59 09:19 15:18 23:27 15:35 21:35 06:15 12:50 18:29 21:40 10:05 16:28 20:34 12:20 20:55 06:55 09:11 12:10 20:39 07:16 14:05

Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen

City BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BUDAPEST BUDAPEST BUDAPEST LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA MUNICH MUNICH MUNICH OSIJEK OSIJEK OSIJEK RIJEKA RIJEKA RIJEKA SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN VENICE VIENNA

To Zagreb No. 210 414 314 200 204 240 499 211 315 211 213 499 550 782 980 703 4001 701 520 524 824 3007 3011 995 241 159

Dep. 05:50 10:35 21:50 06:05 14:05 16:35 06:15 14:35 21:15 08:27 12:21 23:40 05:25 16:22 00:05 05:45 13:40 17:10 07:38 15:10 22:10 06:47 10:38 17:51 21:20 15:56

Arr. 12:56 17:52 04:53 11:59 20:00 23:07 08:34 16:57 23:34 16:57 20:55 08:34 08:46 20:56 05:05 09:37 18:29 21:04 13:10 20:41 06:31 09:28 13:16 20:04 04:18 22:34

Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes.

For a full schedule check www.hznet.hr

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz. hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 24hrs), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

Make friends? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, rezervacije@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3).

Bus schedule From Zagreb Dep. Arr. 08:10 13:40 16:45 22:15 07:00 18:00 22:30 08:15 16:00 07:15 07:30 11:45 12:40 16:50 19:00 22:50 06:15 11:15 15:30 19:35 19:00 23:30 06:30 14:50 16:45 23.55 22:00 06:00 18:00 05:45 05:30 09:45 06:00 11:00 23:00 05:50 16:00 06:00

To Zagreb City Dep. BELGRADE 07:30 BELGRADE 15:50 DUBROVNIK 07:00 DUBROVNIK 22:00 FRANKFURT 12:30 OSIJEK 08:00 OSIJEK 12:00 OSIJEK 17:30 PULA 10:00 PULA 16:00 PULA 19:00 SARAJEVO 09:30 SARAJEVO 12:30 SARAJEVO 22:00 SKOPJE 17:00 2,3,4,5,6 TRIESTE2,3,4,5,6 17:00 VIENNA 17:00 VIENNA1,2,3,4,5,6 18:00 ZURICH 19:00

Arr. 13:00 21:15 17:10 07:00 04:10 12:20 16:20 22:00 14:00 20:00 23:30 16:00 20:55 06:00 06:00 21:00 23:10 23:00 08:00

Days of the week (1 = Monday). Schedule subject to change.

For a full schedule check http://akz.hr/

Car rental Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 22 22 26/

(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@avis.com.hr, www. avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

A Budget J-4, Pile I 1, tel. (+385-1) 455 49 43/(+385-1) 455 49 36, zgd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33/ (+385-1) 483 64 66, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa. hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A Smart A-2, Ivana Kukuljevića 32, tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, www.rentasmart.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Road help (HAK) tel. 987 HAK - 987 J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. (+385-1)

661 19 99, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Call tel. 464 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road.

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi, the trip from town is approx 200-250kuna or the cheaper option is with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kuna and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www. plesoprijevoz.hr or phone 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 616 02 15, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, zag@czechairlines.com, www.csa.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lufthansa Pleso Airport, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Turkish Airlines Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

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GettInG around Antiques Agram C-2, Miškecov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 78,

agram-antikvarijat@zg.t-com.hr, www.agram-antikviteti. hr. Agram will arouse the antique lover in you. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr.

Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49.

Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Bookshops Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55, www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25, megastore@profil.hr, www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. A VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizarazagreb@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture.

Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, tel. 467 08 04.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian fashion design Amarie B-3, Gundulićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 35 24, www.amarie-fashion.com. A young designer whose feminine and modern clothes are a hit among fashion editors.

QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Boudoir C-1, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 71/ (+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic, womanly and full of romance. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Charlie D-2, Vlaška 47, tel. (+385-1) 481 36 87, www. charlie-design.hr. Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. Friendly staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Gena B-3, Roosveltov Trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 482 60 98/ (+385) 098 44 85 44. Men clothes.Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Stolnik D-2, Vlaška 58, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 00,

stolnik@zg.t-com.hr, www.moda-stolnik.com. Centrally located, this high-end Croatian labels weaves raw silks and unusual fabrics into imaginative structures designed to beautify. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

XD Xenia Design C-2, Petrinjska 31, tel. (+385-1)

492 04 11, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design. hr. Designer who makes custom clothing suited to your size and personality. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

Gifts & Souvenirs Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products?

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1)

485 25 25, 384 38 05/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@ bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Croata C-2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 26, oktogon@ croata.hr, www.croata.hr. Ties and varied clothing of rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro.

Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea-racki@live.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country.

The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

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sHoPPInG Pot Pourri C-2, Miškecov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 487

Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 -

20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1)

481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of all kinds of different candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1)

481 40 30/(+385-1) 492 16 68, llumezi@inet.hr, www. nakit-lumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial.

Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Mladen Grubić C-2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 487 37

43, studio.grubic@hotmail.com. This is a little gem, just off the main square, and is sure to make a vast contribution to your jewelry collection. The combination of materials such as gemstones, Murano glass, silver, wire, leather and wood have resulted in attractive pieces of ethnic, Africano and leather jewelry.QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sun. A

Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel.

(+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.com. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. Also A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Pantheon B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 07,

vinoteka.pantheon@pantheon.hr, www.pantheon.hr.

An excellent selection of wines, olive oil, homemade cheese and other fine delicacies to be found in one place. A perfect short stop for tasting Croatian products. If you seek that true holiday experience, make sure you visit their wine bar.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

27 56. Very, very interesting goodies with a sizeable price tag. Great gifts can be found here, much of which tends to be retro (antique) in styling. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. Slavonica C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 29, kaptol@ecoslavonia.com, www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A VinAnima B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 03, vinanima@vinanima.hr, www.vinanima.hr. Look no further when it comes to a fine drop of wine as this great ‘vino’ store is jam packed with some of today’s and yesteryear’s classics, including port, cognac, sherry, rakija, olive oil and chocolate.

Store owner Iva is a top class sommelier who ensures you will get an excellent wine that suits all occasions. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Shopping centres & Malls Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Cascade C-1, Tkalčićeva 88, tel. (+385-1) 640 05 90, info@cascade.hr, www.cascade.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www. nama.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

The House of Croatian Wines Kuća hrvatskih vina Hrvatski Leskovac, Lučko,

Zagreb, tel:(+385-1) 655 75 55. To learn more about Croatian wine, you probably couldn’t do much better than take a trip to Kuća hrvatskih vina – the House of Croatian Wines.

The display is arranged into four sections presenting wines from the main producing regions of Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Central Croatia. It is situated just outside Zagreb, appropriately enough at the beginning of the Zagreb County Wine Route just to the east of the city.

The place to find that perfect gift and stock up your cellar - prices start at just 20kn, though of course, the sky’s the limit. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture Centres Austrian Cultural Forum B-2, Ivana Gundulića 3, tel.

(+385-1) 488 12 50, office@kulturforum-zagreb.org, www.kulturforum-zagreb.org. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil.org/ croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library: Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. French Cultural Institute C-2, Bogovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 52 22, institut@ambafrance.hr, www. ifz.hr. Lots of cool artsy stuff. It’s worth a look-see and easily located in the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, tel. (+385-1) 619 50 00, info@zagreb.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/kroatien. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Cultural Institute C-2, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, iiczagabria@esteri.it, www. iiczagabria.esteri.it. Q Open: 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mediatheque: Open 13:00 - 17:00, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kic C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. With an internet caffe, music, video, gallery and all kinds of little events this is a great place to hang out. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Emergency number 112 92 93 94 9155

Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

General Health H-2, Ulica Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, fax

(+385-1) 481 19 58, berlitz@berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr.

Numerous languages are taught with a communicative, well balanced modern approach. A universally recongised method that engages students at all levels. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60/S, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Making friends International Women`s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

QOpen Mon 17:00 - 19:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.

Follow Zagreb In Your Pocket on

Emergency health care

Pharmacy 0-24

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3 (C-2) tel. 481 61 98, Ilica 301 (A-2) tel. 375 03 21, Ozaljska 1 (H-3) tel. 309 75 86, Avenija V. Holjevca 22, Siget (I-5) tel. 652 54 25, Grižanska 4, Dubrava (L-2) tel. 299 23 50

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2010

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BusIness dIreCtorY Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draško-

vićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@ hgk.hr, w w w.zg.hgk. hr. Ser vices: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations wi th foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1)

248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

Zagreb In Your Pocket

BusIness dIreCtorY

KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel.

(+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. Tax, legal and investment consulting.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. Svan Consulting Donjozelinska 197, Donja Zelina, tel. (+385-) 098 963 36 05, ratka@svanconsulting.com, www.svanconsulting.com.

T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, fax (+385-1) 480 08 91, www.splitskabanka. hr. Free info 0800 0210. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Brokerage houses Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, auctor@auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50, hita@hita.hr, www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94, brokeri@intercapital.hr, www.intercapital.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31, brokeri@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Tax

Powerboat P1, Split

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 15% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 35% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn, 45% for a net income higer than 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank.

Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

Fans of adrenaline sports will be thrilled to hear that in Split this April th ey will have the chance to take in the thrills, the spills and the glamour of the Croatian Grand Prix of the Sea. This year for the first time, Split is hosting the first of the seven races of the Powerboat P1 World Championship. Split‘s waterfront promenade, the Riva, will be turned into an arena for watching custom-built powerboats racing on the open sea at speeds of up to 200 km/h. The Riva will also be turned into party central, with marquees hosting concerts, DJs and competitions, and you‘ll be able to try your hand on racing simulators. And the whole thing is free and open to the public. The event takes place at the same time as the Croatia Boat Show. Nautical sports fans, take out your pencils now and jot the dates in your diary: 16 - 19 April.

Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Asta Kovačić E-4, Držićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 611 78 70/(+385-) 099 590 93 32. QOpen 24 hours.

Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17

36, fax (+385-1) 375 11 33, info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95.

Prevoditeljski centar C-2, Amruševa 19, tel. (+385-1) 492 27 30/(+385-1) 481 03 97, fax (+385-1) 481 76 58, prevoditeljski-centar@zg.t-com.hr, w w w. drustvoprevoditelja.t-com.hr. Their staff are fluent (collectively, of course) in 21 European languages, Chinese, Japanese and Arabic. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel./fax (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, fax (+385-1) 617 06 86, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, jet-set@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, fax (+385-1) 457 76 67, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, fax (+385-1) 482 61 94, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www.kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

February - March 2010

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street reGIster 29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Index 100% Istra (Kod Pavela) Agava AKC Medika Apartment house Snježna kraljica Aquarius & Aquarius A2 Aquariusnet Café Archeological Museum in Zagreb Arcotel Allegra Aristos Arts and Crafts Museum As Asia B.P. Club Bacchus Ban Josip Jelačić Square Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria Babbar Boogaloo Booksa Bulldog XL Buzz Backpackers Club Canzona Casino City Casino Fortuna Central Cica Crazy Horse Croatian History Museum Croatian Natural History Museum Croatian School Museum Cup ‘98 Čvenk Didov san Dobar zvuk Dolac Dora Dublin Pub Dubrovnik Eli’s Ethnographic Museum Evistas Fala Fellini Flores Fly!bar Four Points by Sheraton

Zagreb In Your Pocket

28 30 34 25 35 33 39 22 22 39 22 27 36 36 37 22 33 35 33 34 24 30 35 35 23 33 34 39 39 39 33 33 27 36 37 23 36 22 33 39 26 24 30 33 34

Panorama Hotel Zagreb 22 Freixenet wine & Tapas bar 32 Funk 35 Funicular 38 Gaj 26 Galerija 23 Gašpar 32 Gavella 33 Gjuro II 35 Godot 36 Golden Sun Casino 33 Grgosova spilja 32 Hallo Kinez 28 Hellas 29 Hemingway 36 Hop Devil 36 Horseburger 28 Hotel Antunović 22 Hotel International Zagreb 22 Hotel Vila Tina 24 Hugo 29 Ilica 24 In Spe Cafe 33 Institut Parfumeur Flores 33 Intacta apartments 23 InZagreb 26 Ivica i Marica 27 Jabuka 34 Jadran 24 Jaegerhorn 24 Jazz Club 36 K&K 33 Karijola 32 Kerempuh 27 Klub Gastronomada 28 Klub Maksimir 28 Korčula 32 Kota 33 Krivi put 34 Kset 34 La Salata 29 Laguna 24 Lemon 35 Limb 35 Luca's 30 Maharadža 29 Maksimir Park & the City Zoo

37 Mano 30 Maraschino 35

Marcellino 30 McDonald’s 29 Meridijan 16 24 Meštrović Atelier 39 Mex Cantina 31 Mimice 31 Mirogoj Cemetery 37 MK (Krolo) 33 Močvara 34 Movie Pub 36 Museum of Contemporary Art

40 Mu steak & chop house 32 Never stop, Nemoj stati 26 Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square 37 No. 1 35 Nova 32 Oliver Twist 36 Omladinski hotel Remetinec 24 Opium 27 Palace 23 Paradise 26 Pauza 28 Phoenix 26 Piccolo Mondo 30 Pif 33 Pilana Bliznec 31 Pinguin Sandwich Bar 29 Piterija Tomislav 27 Plješivička klet 28 Pod mirnim krovom 28 Porin 26 Prasac 30 Pri Zvoncu 28 Purger 28 Purgeraj 34 Pušlek - Cvjetni trg 33 Ravnice Youth Hostel 24 Ritz Cabaret 36 Route 66 34 Rubelj grill 29 Runa 34 Saloon 36 Sax! 36 Sedmica 35 Sheraton Zagreb Hotel 22 Sirup 36 Sliško 25 Soba 34 Sofra 27

Spunk 34 St Mark’s Church 37 Stara Vura 28 Stari fijaker 900 28 Stari Puntijar 32 Stella 24 Stone Gate 37 Strossmayer 32 Šestine 32 Šestinski lagvić 32 Takenoko Sushi Bar 31 Technical Museum 39 The Black Eagle Pharmacy 38 The Cathedral of Assumpt ion of the Blessed Virgin Mary 37 The Croatian Museum of Naive Art 39 The Croatian State Archives 39 The Gallery 36 The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts 39 The Green Horseshoe 38 The Lotrščak Tower & Grič cannon 39 The Mimara Museum 40 The Movie Hotel 24 The Museum of Post and Telecommunications 40 The Observatory 38 The Regent Esplanade Zagreb

23 The Westin Zagreb 22 Tip-Top 28 Tkalčićeva 37 Tomislavov dom 25 Trnjanka 28 Tvornica 36 Vallis aurea 28 Vapiano 31 Vegehop 32 Velvet 33 Vertigo 35 Zagreb 25 Zagreb City Museum 40 Zagreb Mummy 38 Zagreb's Solar System 38 Zagreb Youth Hostel 24 Zalogajnica “Kod Duje” 31 Zinfandels 30

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