Zagreb In Your Pocket No63 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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ZAGREB December 2011 - Januray 2012

Brave New World

Culture Meets Politics at the Museum of Contemporary Art

It‘s a Gift!

No more dilemmas! Head straight for our Shopping guide...

Luxuriant Landscapes

The Art of Mato Celestin Medović

N°63 - complimentary copy

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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Socialist Era Art

A Taste of Socialist Zagreb

Where to stay

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome CafĂŠs Easily the best scene in the world! Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

Head straight for our Shopping pages to find where to buy unique, hand-crafted jewellery.

What to see

All those things you mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss 28 29

Mail & Phones

Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

Bowling or Pilates

Interactive

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

60 61

Maps & Index

Are you sitting comfortably? Read our feature on socialism and modern design

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Transport map Street index City centre map City map Country map

63 63 64 66 67

December 2011 - Januray 2012

FOREWORD 'Tis the season to be jolly, and at this time we expect you're frantically running around getting to all those party engagements, preparing for your own celebrations, and wondering what exactly to buy for your nearest and dearest, who of course have everything they could possibly need anyway. That's why we've dedicated this guide to making your life as easy as possible at this hectic time. Where to pamper yourself to look your best for those special parties; where to buy the perfect gift, where to enjoy days out in the snow, where to enjoy a good meal out over the Christmas season and where to go for a relaxing escape to recover once it's all over. If you’re going to be down Dubrovnik way, the 3rd Winter issue of Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is awaiting your perusal. And if you're new to Croatia and to Zagreb, we explain some of those mystifying things that you may see appearing in the streets and markets at this time. Christmas here is, thankfully, as yet, not quite so commercialised as many of us from other parts of the world have come to expect – it's definitely a holiday to celebrate at home with the family. And if you're not lucky enough to be invited to celebrate the real thing with the locals, we'll tell you where you can sample the best of the specialities of the season, so you definitely won't miss out. Finally – a big thank you to all our readers, and to everbody who has supported us over the ten and a half years of our happy existence. We wish you every warmth of the season, and every success for the coming year.

Cover Story This vintage cover of "Svijet" magazine is by Aleksandar Srnec, a member of the EXAT 51 group of avant garde artists.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Published 6 times per year

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It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Researcher / Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan, Marko Sirovina Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover Svijet, Aleksandar Srnec Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information



Tourist Information Centre C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, inf o@zagreb-touristinf o.hr, w w w. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

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complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

December 2011 - Januray 2012

BASICS

Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald’s Big Mac 17.50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free ) 10,06kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,30kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn Exchange rates (as of 30.11.2011.): US$1 = 5,6kn €1 = 7,5kn £1 = 8,7kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.37 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.36 €1.26 €0.41 €1.37

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr). For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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HISTORY

Zagreb City Museum Zagreb’s districts

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia. 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the

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River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

December 2011 - Januray 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS Rock & Pop Concerts

17.12 Saturday - 18.12 Sunday

10.12 Saturday

Dionne Warwick and Ivo Gamulin Gianni

Adept + More Than A Thousand + Walking With Strangers

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb. Heavy metal maniacs will be tearing down the walls at the Močvara Club with this triple gig event. Popular Swedish hardcore/metal band Adept promote their album ‘Death Dealers’ and are joined by fellow countrymen Walking With Strangers and Portuguese act More Than A Thousand. Its metal, its core and its raw! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

10.12 Saturday

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. With an astounding 56 singles making the Billboard Top 100, Dionne Warwick is a living legend of the American and World music scene and she teams up with our very own gracious tenor, Ivo Gamulin. The stage will send out beams of charm and elegance as this duo team up in a Christmas concert that will enrich the spirit of your Holy Season. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150 - 300kn.

22.12 Thursday - 23.12 Friday

Damir Urban & 4

The Shapeshifters

H-5, Aquarius Club, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb, www. aquarius.hr. Simon Marlin and Max Reich are this dynamic duo that fuse their roots to produce some of the most uplifting house music around. Their 2004 hit ‘Lola’s Theme’ hit the charts and they have consistently produced singles that clock up YouTube hits. So if you are up for dance, then be moved by two DJs of the highest order. Q Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 75kn available at the Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13).

E-3, Tvornica, Pavla Šubića 2, www.tvornica-kulture. hr. Unique, emotive and charismatic may best sum up the voice of Damir Urban. He has been in the music scene since the age of 16 and continues to produce an outstanding quality of rock, alternative and industrial music. Q Tickets 90 - 110kn available at the Tvornica (Pavla Šubića 2), Daily News (Gundulićeva 5, Hoto Centre), Churchill cigar shop (City Centre, Avenue Mall, Arena Centre).

31.12 Saturday

Let 3

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornica-kulture. hr. Has any band formally had two concerts in two years in the space of twenty-four hours? Then it is going to be Let 3, these giant rockers from Rijeka are set to pound their hits New Year’s Eve 2011 starting at 22:00. Then, after an intermission, concert two, in 2012 and at 01:30 kicks off! It is double the fun!

14.01 2012 Saturday

Orange Goblin + Umor + Killed A Fox

Damir Urban

D-4, Dvorana Željezničar, Trnjanska 1, www.zeljeznicar. net. Fear not dear readers as Orange Goblin, a stoner/doom metal outfit from the UK is not goblinish at all… The band is set to release a new album in 2012. Support acts include two local bands which play a blend of atmospheric/stoner/ psychedelic rock with some heavier chords. Q Tickets 80 - 100kn available at the Dallas Music Shop (Masarykova 6), Dancing Bear (Gundulićeva 7) i Maldoror (Lopašićeva 3).

22.01 2012 Sunday

Dropkick Murphy’s

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornica-kulture. hr. The banjo, the bagpipes and the tin whistle can only mean one thing - Irish!! Indeed, and this American/Irish punk outfit bring their gut wrenching, raw on stage power performance to Zagreb for the very first time. The green clover is back and boy o boy do these seven lads know how to rock. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 170kn.

Jazz&Blues Concerts LET 3

21.12 Wednesday

12.12 Monday

Zoran Predin & Matija Dedić

ThrashFest: Sepultura, Exodus, Destruction, Heathen, Mortal Sin

B-2, Gavella, Frankopanska 8-10, www.gavella.hr. What a tandem? Renowned vocalist Zoran Predin combines with Croatian pianist Matija Dedić as they present their new joint album, ‘Tragovi u sjeti’. It is a compilation of 12 mega-popular past hits including ‘Ti si mi u krvi’ by Goran Bregović and ‘Galeb i ja’ by Zvonko Runjić. Predin’s suggestive vocals and Dedić’s impressionistic jazzy piano moves are set to enchant the crowd. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 200kn available at the Gavella and Aquarius Music Shop (Varšavska 13).

I-3, Boogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www. boogaloo.hr. Five giants of the world metal scene are set to evoke robust moshing impulses amongst the crowd at Boogaloo. Brazilian lords Sepultura, with their tribal nu metal are joined by 80s thrash metal pioneers Exodus, Destruction and Heathen. And then there is Mortal Sin, the thunder from down under, noted as Australia’s finest thrash metal export. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 220kn.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Dropkick Murphy’s

13.01 2012 Friday

Duško Gojković Kvartet

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski (Small Concert Hall), Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. He recently celebrated his 80th birthday and is still pursuing his passion, jazzzzz! Gojković, a trumpeter, is one of the most renowned musicians from the former state and he brings a piece of regional and world jazz history to Zagreb. He will perform together with the Croatian Radio Television Big Band. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

18.01 2012 Wednesday

Jazz Orkestar HRT & Zoran Šćekić

I-4, Bajsić Studio, Croatian Television, Prisavlje 3. Up and coming star of the Croatian jazz scene, Šćekić is a jazz guitarist, composer and arranger who has already filled his CV with appearances at festivals, as well as being in duos, trios and quintets. He teams up with Croatian TV’s Jazz Orchestra to strut his stuff! Concert starts at 20:00.

and released a covers CD that has topped world charts and have been touring with Elton John. Fans of both classical and rock music can expect a pre-Christmas concert treat! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150 - 350kn.

23.01 2012 Monday

Monika Leskovar (cello) & Itamar Golan (piano)

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Two masters of their craft combine to perform as a duo this winter, Leskovar is a young cellist who has appeared all over world concert halls and has partaken in several recordings. Golan is an Israeli pianist who shot to fame in the USA and has worked with the likes of Julian Rachlin and Maxim Vengerov. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

05.02 2012 Sunday

HGM Jazz Orchestra, guest Michael Abene

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski (Small Concert Hall), Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Born and bred in Brooklyn, Abene is a jazz pianist and composer who has worked with various Big Bands to attaining Grammy Awards. If Liza Minnelli and B.B. King are on his ‘some of the greats I’ve worked with’, then he really is one self-taught prodigy.

Classical Music Concerts 21.12 Wednesday

2CELLOS Luka Šulić & Stjepan Hauser

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The newest Croatian sensation is this double bass duo that less than a year ago uploaded their classical performance of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal on You Tube and have since had over 5 million clicks, recorded

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Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com December 2011 - Januray 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS Opera, Operetta & Ballet

10.01 2012 Tuesday

09.10 Sunday - 24.06 2012 Sunday

Ernani at Teatro Comunale di Bologna

Ballet from Bolshoi - Live at Movieplex cinema

C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77, 486 07 76, info@movieplex.hr, www.movieplex. hr. Be a par t of the 500 cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present six spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

15.12 Thursday

Sleeping beauty at The Royal Opera House London

D-4, Cinestar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, www.blitzcinestar.hr. See this fairytale come to life with its dynamic choreography, grandiose music and majestic stage scenes that make Sleeping Beauty one of the most beautiful classical ballets. Embark on a journey where the forces of good and evil clash and where court dances flourish. This is considered one of Pyotr Illytisch Tchaikovsky’s finest orchestrations. And it is live on the big screen. Q Starts at 19:30.

27.12 Tuesday

The Magic Flute at Teatro alla Scala Milano

D-4, Cinestar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, www.blitzcinestar.hr. Mozart weaved his magic over 200 years ago to compose this two act opera that is a ‘Singspiel’, a popular form that included both singing and spoken dialogue. Few operas carry such contrast with Masonic elements and Enlightenment philosophy entwined with the principles of reason, wisdom and nature. Fairytale meets reality! Q Starts at 19:30.

D-4, Cinestar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, www.blitzcinestar.hr. The things one does for love is what attracted the great Verdi to this storyline in which he mastered the musical ties. It depicts the transformation of three main male characters that all fall in love with the same woman. See the trials and tribulations of this epic tale with an excellent cast, beautiful costumes and music. Q Starts at 19.30.

14.01 2012 Saturday

The Metropolitan G. F. Händel: Rodelinda

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. This three act opera written in 1719 has been enlightened by the Stephen Wadsworth production. Handel’s epic work comes to life in the thrill of the chase for love and redemption. Renee Fleming leads as the Queen of Lombardy in a highly praised all-round performance. Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 95kn.

21.01 2012 Saturday

Pa s t i c h e o f b a r o q u e c o m p o s e r s a n d Shakespeare’s comedies: The Enchanted Island I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The Metropolitan premieres this first ever opera which is a culmination of music by various baroque composers (Handel, Rameau, Vivaldi and others), and is based on the libretto by Jeremy Sams. The storyline is rooted in characters and elements of two Shakespeare plays where a supernatural battle embroils. This is a one off, new age interpretation of an 18th century pasticcio! Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 95kn.

Exhibitions 28.01 Friday - 31.01 2012 Tuesday

The Rocky Planet Earth

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. This exhibition consists of three collections according to the classification of rocks: Igneous Rock, Sedimentary Rock and Metamorphic Rock. At the same time, you’ll have the chance to learn about the origins of our planet, to witness the lava flows of Vesuvius and to get closer to rocks from outer space - meteorites.

30.06 Thursday - 15.12 Thursday

Fire

D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@etnografski-muzej.hr, www. emz.hr. This exhibition is burning red hot with its authors presenting the importance of fire through social, historical, economical, and symbolic perspectives. It includes fire as linked to lightning and volcanoes, craft and industry, religion and folklore, to heretics and witches, celebrations and festivities, and more. So the heat is on at the Ethnographic Museum.

15.10 Saturday - 05.02 2012 Sunday

Silver and gold from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Treasury

An excellent play called “Kauboji” (“Cowboys”) is running throughout December at the EXIT theatre

Zagreb In Your Pocket

B-3, The Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. This is the crème de le crème of German profane jewellery art made between the 15th and 18th century. See approximately fifty of the finest works of great Nuremberg and Augsburg jewellers such as Hans Pezolt, Melchior Gelb, Martin Rehlein and others in what was, a ‘golden age’ of adornments.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

27.10 Thursday - 27.12 Tuesday

25.11 Friday - 31.12 Saturday

Illuminations - Archaeological illustrations by Krešimir Rončević

Small Formats II

C-2, Archaeological Museum, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. So Archaeology has been his passion for 40 years, his other passion of painting and drawing has allowed Rončević to combine the two in what is an opus dedicated to a wide range of topics from sacral motives, painters’ and sculptors’ ateliers, working tables etc. Rončević turns towards intimate realism, and fine art with shades of colours.

B-2, Galerija Marisall, Mesnička 5. Fourteen artists delve into different forms of art expression and have made compositions in small formats. This is a sequel to last year’s exhibition and some of the artists are Jelena Bando, Danijel Srdarev, Ana Sladetić, Zoran Kakša, Petar Dolić, and Tatjana Politeo.

22.11 Tuesday - 22.01 2012 Sunday

Tizian, Tintoretto, Veronese, The Great Masters of Renaissance

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. An exhibition that for the first time presents anthological works by some of the great masters of the Renaissance era. Step back into time and admire paintings as painted on canvas and wood between 1450 and 1590AD. Amongst them is a group of master pieces which were made by the likes of Italian painters Tizian, Tintoretto and Veronese from the 15th and 16th century. During the Renaissance, these were ordered by renowned members of Croatian church communities, aristocrats, seamen and humanist individuals. With this exhibition, the Klovićevi dvori Gallery formally opens an international exhibition deriving from Croatian collections; it reveals to the Croatian audience a compilation of art treasures that one would need to seek throughout museums abroad.

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Laura Delterbre

Small Formats II Galerija Marisall

December 2011 - Januray 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS 15.12 Thursday - 15.01 2012 Sunday

Ivan Androš - Probe

C-2, Photo Gallery KIC Club, Petra Preradovića 5. In this cycle of photographs, Ivan Androš uses randomly chosen black and white photographs and fixes materials on them that allows for the convergence of light. And the result - photos that focus our attention on certain motifs or either sharpen or deform them so that they become unrecognizable.

20.12 Tuesday - 04.03 2012 Sunday

Šime Vulas - Retrospective

Gričevanje 09.12 Plato Gradec

01.12 Thursday - 12.02 2012 Sunday

Mato Celestin Medović - Retrospective

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. The exhibition by the most famous Croatian painter-plenerist is the pinnacle of this year’s Klovićevi dvori Gallery’s art season. Mato Celestin Medović was the founder of 20th century Croatian landscape fine art. He is the serene counterpart of the ‘temperamental and light manner’ of Vlaho Bukovac with whom he was the founder of Croatian Modern Art. Mediterranean landscapes beaming with sunshine, still life paintings, subtle portraits and magnificent altar pallets, as well as rich historical inscenations, are reason enough for a prolonged stay in the halls of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery during these long winter months.

01.12 Thursday - 31.12 Saturday

Ruđer Bošković on Medallions and Coins

C-2, Archaeological Museum, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the greatest minds of the 18th century. He was born in Dubrovnik and this year marks the 300th anniversary of his birth. Bošković was an astronomer, surveyor, hydrographer, mathematician, philosopher, diplomat, archaeologist, architect and poet. His most significant work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry, astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. His image appeared on all banknotes issues in the transition period from Yugoslav to Croatian currency between 1991 and 1993, when the currency was known as the Croatian Dinar.

C-3, Modern gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.modernagalerija.hr. Sculpting is a labour of love for Šime Vulas who presents an astonishing 70 years of his opus to the wider public. This extraordinaire of carving, engraving and sanding will showcase over 150 of his precious works which include candles, sails, cities, rosettes, organs, portals, fortresses and boats reminiscing his coastal birthplace of Trogir. Dynamic and rhythmic in motion, these have been created in wood, marble, stone, bronze, aluminium, and other materials. A greater part of his range include the yet to be fully investigated sacral figures which include crosses, crucifixes and sacral drawings. Add to that his outdoor monuments placed in parks, squares and memorials, this exhibit truly exacerbates the richness of one man’s life calling.

Special events 09.12 Friday - 31.12 Saturday

Gričevanje

C-1, Plato Gradec, www.gricevanje.com. Legend has it that witches once burned in Grič, a part of the Upper Town. Well, this winter pop festival is set to make the temperatures rise feverishly with concerts by jovial singers from the local music scene as well as small crafty trades, masked parties under domes and magical drinks, set to warm your hearts and spirits.

14.12 Wednesday - 15.12 Thursday

Aida

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr. Based on the story from the classical Verdi opera, ‘Aida’ is a musical with a modern pop score, an epic tale of love, loyalty and betrayal. Q Starts at 19:30.

01.12 Thursday - 30.09 2012 Sunday

The Homeland War

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

08.12 Thursday - 05.01 2012 Thursday

Dino Trtovac - Paintings 2007-2011

C-2, Photo Gallery Club, Preradovićeva 5. From London to France to Zagreb, Trtovac has studied in all these cities and his new series brings together his ongoing study in ‘coloured fields’. The interaction, dispersion and gelling of colours with lyrical abstractions create the contrasting images that enrich the final product. His works are full of lines, and full of life!

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ante Rašić Exhibition until 12.12 2012 Art Pavilion

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CULTURE & EVENTS

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December 2011 - Januray 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS

Ana Savić Gecan

21.12 Wednesday - 22.12 Thursday

14.12 Wednesday

Jalta, Jalta

Harlem Gospel Choir

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. What a portfolio? Playing with the likes of Diana Ross, The Chieftains and U2, and playing for Pope John Paul II and Paul McCartney. The well known phrase, ‘Praise the Lord’ comes to mind as its members perform with harmony and grace. It’s music with heart and soul! Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 120 - 200kn available at the Aquarius Music Shop (Varšavska 13, Vlaška 44, Maksimirska 16, Varšavska 11), Dallas Music Shop (Teslina 16), Dancing Bear CD Shop (Gundulićeva 7), Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13) and www. eventim.hr.

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr. Deemed by many as the best Croatian musical comedy! Set in Jalta, February 1945, during a conference where Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt were dividing the world. Their servants Griše, Larry and Stanley were having a war of their own, they steal the limelight and it is on for young and old as they quarrel over territory and much else. Q Starts at 19:30.

27.01 2012 Friday

The Night of the Museums Forget the winter chill and enter a world of nostalgia, history and tradition! You have no excuse to be indoors come January 27 as it is the 8th edition of the ‘Night of Museums’. Enter a world of cultural establishment as all museums have free entry from 18:00 to 01:00 that evening. The Croatian Museum’s Society has once again organised a fantastic exhibition programme as well as educational and entertainment programmes. Informative booklets will be handed out free of charge and for further information visit www.hrmud.hr.

For the Kids 11.12 Sunday

G. Rossini/Z. Niessner: Puss in the Boots (children’s opera)

Harlem Gospel Choir

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dubrava Children’s Theatre, Cerska 1, tel. (+385-1) 205 00 38, info@kazalistedubrava.hr, www.kazalistedubrava. hr. This 17th century fairytale is about a mill man’s son who after the passing away of his father receives a gift, an unusual cat that wears boots and can speak. When the young man falls in love with a princess the shenanigans begin. It’s a story with dance, funny duets and arias, intended for children between 4 to 12 years of age.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

- 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21,

info@brokenships.com, www.new.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00

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HGM Jazz Orchestra, guest Michael Abene

ITM Zagreb oko 1926

December 2011 - Januray 2012

CULTURE & EVENTS (+385-) 099 217 77 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr, www. kranjcar.hr. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun on request. Admission free.

Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Mijo Kovačić Galerija)

Laura Aris Alvarez Under the Eyelids

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour.Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Small galleries

Canvas Gallery (Galerija Canvas) E-2, Tomašićeva

8, tel. (+385-1) 462 13 50, galerija@canvas.hr, www. canvas.hr. Studio and gallery of graphic art.They hold three exhibitions a month, so it’s worth looking in regularly. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Q Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, w w w.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00/

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C-1, Basaričekova 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 38, www. mijokovacic.com/gallery/. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www. hd-naiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of bright-coloured paintings. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 74 11/(+385-1) 302 42 47, modulor@cekate.hr, www.cekate.hr. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija.sczg.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Bužančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

(+385-1) 614 01 89, galerija.vladimir.buzancic@czknovi-zagreb.hr, www.czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Vladimir Filakovac Gallery (Galerija Vladimir

Filakovac) L-2, Dubrava 51a, tel. (+385-1) 205 00 63, galerija@ns-dubrava.hr, www.ns-dubrava.hr. Free entry. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+385-1) 377 08 96, galerija.vn@kgz.hr, www.kvn.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija@morh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

Cinemas Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. Q Box office Open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world docs. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 08:30 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn. Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 15:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn.

goethe.de/kroatien. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Cultural Institute C-2, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, iiczagabria@esteri.it, www. iiczagabria.esteri.it. Q Open: 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mediatheque: Open Tue, Thu 14:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Kic C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. With an internet caffe, music, video, gallery and all kinds of little events this is a great place to hang out. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Culture Centres Austrian Cultural Forum B-2, Ivana Gundulića 3, tel.

(+385-1) 488 12 50, office@kulturforum-zagreb.org, www.kulturforum-zagreb.org. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Council D-3 Palmotićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, w w w. britishcouncil.org/croatia. Moving to the new adress Palmotićeva 60 as of November. Tel. no. as before. French Cultural Institute C-2, Hebrangova 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 52 22, institut@ambafrance.hr, www. ifz.hr. Lots of cool artsy stuff. It’s worth a look-see and easily located in the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, tel. (+385-1) 619 50 00, info@zagreb.goethe.org, www.

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Jane Ryre Kic Art

Download free pdf guide zagreb.inyourpocket.com December 2011 - Januray 2012

SOCIALIST ERA ART A Taste of Socialist Zagreb It’s natural for a first-time visitor to Zagreb to wonder “what was it like here under communism?” There are few visible traces of that time in the city, one reason being the gentler mode of socialism that Croatia, as part of Yugoslavia, experienced compared to its neighbours. Whether in Zagreb or Moscow, Budapest or Prague, however tough the face of totalitarianism may have been, you’ll find people, young and old, who feel sad at the loss of some things from those days. For many, life was more secure and more innocent than it is today. Though some freedoms were curtailed and many consumer goods weren’t available, people had more time for each other and for fun. We’ve put together this quick guide to Zagreb’s socialist past to give you a taste of what life was like under that doughty leader of the non-aligned world, Marshal Josip Broz Tito.

Architecture To mention the words “socialism” and “architecture” in the same sentence is to conjure up visions of dreary avenues of concrete blocks. However, socialism spawned quite a few buildings which are admired by their residents and the cognoscenti alike. In post-war Zagreb architects often favoured designs inspired by the “father of modern architecture”, CharlesÉdouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier. Appalled by the poverty he saw in Paris in the 1920s, this famous utopian designed “machines for living” which should make life pleasant for their residents and transcend class divides. One example of this style is the block that straddles numbers 35 and 35a on Zagreb’s Avenija Vukovar. It was designed in the mid-1950s by Drago Galić, who was inspired by Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation modernist residence in Marseille. The residents in Vukovarska live

in what experts claim is one of the most human-friendly buildings around. It has duplex flats and studios for singles in the attic, great views, a caretaker and a communal laundry. Much of Vukovarska dates from the post-war period when massive numbers of migrants flocked to the city. Also see: the City Hall; the building where a branch of Raiffeisenbank is now housed; the People’s Open University and the apartment block on the corner of Držićeva whose flats boast a better design than many built today. Drago Galić was the protégé of another well-known Croatian architect, Drago Ibler, who is responsible for “the Wooden Skyscraper”. You’ll see it on Iblerov trg: a low-rise section with business premises with an eightfloor residential block on one side. Its innovative design makes it one of Zagreb’s most famous buildings of the era. Residents can enjoy a terrace with a wooden pergola covering the whole of the top of the block. Nearby, in Laginjina ulica, is a building famous for its harmonious incorporation into the city. Colourful panels and sliding sunscreens cheer up the south side of the building. However, as with all of these building, the condition isn’t great: let’s hope the city council finds a bit of cash to help spruce up these icons of the Modern age. For a little retro “commie”-chic seek out the building of the erstwhile Central Committee of the Union of Communists of Croatia - known as the “kockica”, or “cube”. Designed by Ivo Vitić, you’ll find it on the banks of the Sava at Prisavlje 14. Today it houses a brace of government ministries.

The products of our youth that we still love Some of these products with their roots in the 50’s are just as popular now as they were back in the day. “Braco” and “Seka” Chocolate Bars - Exactly the same chocolate inside, “Braco” was for boys and “Seka” for girls, as denoted by the cherubic faces on the wrapping. Cockta - Cockta, a Slovenian cola, is made from herbal extracts; mainly rose-hip. So, though mighty sweet, it was seen as a healthier (and cheaper) alternative to other branded soft drinks we won’t name. Životinjsko carstvo Chocolate Bars - Kids could hardly wait to get their mitts on “Animal Kingdom” chocolate bars to collect the pictures of dangerous beasties lurking inside. Cedevita - A luminous powder you mix into water to make a drink, a bit like Kool-Aid. Apparently one glass of drink gives you 50% of your daily dose of nine different vitamins. Still a big hit with young and old alike. Domaćica One of the original, much-loved chocolate biscuit brands from Kraš, Zagreb’s iconic sweet factory, is condescendingly named “Housewife”.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Vegeta - A powder not unlike dried soup laced with the secret flavour enhancer MSG; many cooks can hardly imagine life without it. Zdenka Cheese - A round box containing cheese triangles which were an integral part of every holiday trip. Helf Sweets - These refreshing hard sweets are apparently made from natural herb and fruit extracts. The same company has also made a coffee sweet, Kavabon, for decades. Startas - Canvas sports shoes made by Borovo, a company established in east Croatia by the Bata family, Czech shoemakers and philanthropists. The Startas brand was recently overhauled with new colourful versions by Croatian designers. Find them in Borovo shoe shops, where you’ll also see the peep-toe canvas ankle boots beloved of 1960s waitresses and hairdressers. Gavrilović salami - A brand dating back to 1883, no celebration was complete without a tasty Gavrilović salami. The tins of pate and luncheon meat are pretty iconic.

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SOCIALIST ERA ART Going Out

Novi Zagreb is another part of town defined by the great immigration of the post-war period. One of its famous buildings is “Super Andrija” after the hero of a hit song from the 1960s. As the writer of one forum post puts it, “it’s a socialist mammoth… ugly as the plague”. But all would agree, though big and ugly, it is very well built. Urban legend has it that if an atom bomb fell on Zagreb, Super Andrija would be the last thing left standing. Behind it is a large park called “Park mladenaca” or “The Bride and Groom’s Park”, since couples would plant trees there when they got married.

Art and Design The 1950s, a time of great demographic and social change, gave birth to some dazzling work in the art world. Yugoslavia quickly shook off the socialist realist work advocated by more hardline regimes, and ground-breaking modern art took root. EXAT 51 was a group founded in 1951, mostly by painters and architects who advocated experimentation and the synthesis of all art forms, aiming at full social engagement. They were followed by the New Tendencies movement, who in the 1960s explored computer art and cybernetics. Also in the 1960s, the Gorgona group was pushing the boundaries of radical expression. You can learn more about all these and more in Zagreb’s excellent Museum of Contemporary Art. The trend towards multidisciplinary work led to great industrial design, as well as architecture. Two of the founding members of EXAT 51, Bernardo Bernardi (19211985) and Vjencesalv Richter (1917-2002), were adept in graphic art, architecture, interior and industrial design. Both designed some wonderful furniture; sadly, very few examples survive. You can see a chair by Bernardi at the People’s Open University on Avenija Vukovar; while one chair by Richter is kept at the Museum of Arts and Crafts. You can also visit the villa that Richter designed, lived and worked in with his wife Nada at Vrhovec 38.

KUD Željezničar D-4, Trnjanska ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 098 41 64 58. Right behind the main railway station, walk east along the railway tracks to get there. Time has hardly touched this place, it is redolent of railway cafes from 1960s films. Great prices too. Vallis Aurea B-2, Josipa Eugena Tomića 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. This city centar cellar restaurant has an interior that harks back to the 1960s with its simple folkloric designs. Good lunchtime specials and wine abound here. Kopa D-2, Trnjanska cesta 5, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 30. As basic a place as you can imagine, a tiny restaurant attached to a bowling club. They do basic grilled meats, and they do them fantastically well. Dam daj K-2, Nemčićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 231 19 51. A cafe owned by a company once synonymous with good catering, Zagrebački plavi. You might venture in if you brave the clouds of smoke and the inscrutable gaze of the locals. Pivnica Tomislav C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 18, tel. (+385-1) 492 22 55. Rustic restaurant near the railway station. The decor and staff uniforms are pure 1960s. Jordanovečki Vuglec K-2, Petrova 103, tel. (+385-1) 232 19 09. Visually low-key, decent and old-fashioned, this place on Petrava serves a very respectable goulash. Mimice D-2, Nikole Jurišića 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. A Zagreb institution: on Fridays there are huge queues for tasty fried fish eaten on the go. Delightfully retro plasticky interior. MK (Krolo) C-1 Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. This simple place is beloved of journalists, artists and anybody fed up with the sterile atmosphere in the city’s trendy bars. Studio 13 B-2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 95. The interior is simple in lustrous wood and yellow paint - or is that white? Super big windows looking onto the street, well-priced drinks and a friendly old-school waiter. Tip Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49. This restaurant and cafe is the traditional haunt of Zagreb’s bohemains and literati. It hasn’t changed since the early days, and offers a great selection of well-prepared Dalmatian food.

Music At the end of the 1970s the Yugoslav New Wave was born, considered by many the golden age of music in these lands. The subversive, punky movement still has a large and devoted following. The authorities frowned on the “Novi val”, but tolerated it with occasional interventions by the censor - maybe why the lyrics are so smart and relevant. The best New Wave bands include: Azra, Film and Haustor from Zagreb; Električni orgazam, Idoli and Šarlo Akrobata from Belgrade, and Pankrti from Ljubljana. The compilation Novi Punk Val showcases Croatian and Slovenian bands, and Paket aranžman Serbian bands. Or try the films Dečko koji obečava (“The Promising Boy”) or Sretno dijete (“Happy Child”) for a picture of those times.

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December 2011 - Januray 2012

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SOCIALIST ERA ART Socialism and Modernity: Art, Culture and Politics 1950 - 1974 02.12 Friday - 05.02 2012 Sunday J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art, which is housed in a snazzy new building in Novi Zagreb, has the modern art movements of the Socialist era as part of its DNA. So where better to see the exhibition “Socialism and Modernity: Art, Culture and Politics 1950 - 1974”, which opens on 2 December.

According to the exhibition’s curators, perhaps the most interesting period for modern art in Zagreb was the 1960s, when the open and cosmopolitan energy that fizzled in society helped make the city one of the most interesting cultural spaces in central and eastern Europe.

Tomislav Gotovac - My Jazz

The Museum does a brilliant job of displaying the strong currents of avant-garde art that have coursed through Zagreb since the 1950s, shaking up the art world and society. This exhibition, four years in the making and encompassing everything from paintings and books to bicycles and architecture, enables you to get to know intimately the society of that time, dispelling myths and shattering stereotypes.

Bogdan Budimirov - STOLAC

The exhibition’s creators have collected works from Croatia and the other republics of Yugoslavia, as well as pieces by artists from the rest of Europe collected by Yugoslav museums. This puts Zagreb’s modern art scene in the context of the country and the continent, and emphasises the intensity of the cultural exchange that was happening at that time. With a finale exploring the dismantling of cultural elitism and the rise of popular culture, it’s fair to say that this is an exhibition that works on many levels: visual, historic, societal and emotional - as well as being a lot of fun. An exhibition with far-reaching horizons and provoking many questions, this is definitely one not to miss!

Muzej za umjetnost i obrt

This is fascinating stuff for anyone interested in how the political background of the Cold War and Yugoslav socialism impacted art, design, popular culture and society - as well as for anyone just interested in how people lived then. As far as art itself goes, the exhibition tells the story of the modern art movements in central and eastern Europe, exploring what modernity was, how it was interpreted in countries throughout Europe and the impact it had on art, culture, politics and society.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/ zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q 378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh

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Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194). PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info. Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh December 2011 - Januray 2012

WHERE TO STAY Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b,

tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-fromhome that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-toknow fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a little things you need shop, cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 16 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person. PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr. Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostel-away-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person. PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, www. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spirits are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €82, 29 doubles €107 - 116, 5 triples €145, 4 apartments €192). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). THABK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGKW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@slisko.hr, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh

Budget Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Zagreb In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHERE TO STAY fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high

Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60, snjezna.kraljica@sljeme.hr, www.snjeznakraljica.com. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €95, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www. hotel-tomislavovdom.com; www.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDCW hhh

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

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December 2011 - Januray 2012

RESTAURANTS

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Isabella Vinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www.isabella.hr. A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 110kn). PLNGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PTAEGB

Breakfast NEW

TavaKava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60

33. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kuna. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (14 - 110kn). B

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, www.konoba-cesarica.hr. Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine. Probably not your best bet if you’ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices. The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac. 200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

Konoba Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42. An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS

dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 85kn). PAG

French NEW

Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702

26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (48 - 380kn). A

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com.hr, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@ marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice - a perfect dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr. Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/ (+385-) 099 707 44 22, www.restoran-laboca.com. Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn). PAGB

Japanese Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen , Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00, Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (40 - 180kn). PG

December 2011 - Januray 2012

RESTAURANTS Mexican Caramba B-2, Savska 30, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 70, www.caramba.hr. A favourite for its exceptional Tex-Mex, locals are suddenly arriving in hoards that call to mind a cattle drive (only in this case it`s Croats, not cows). Could somebody tell the bastard parrot to shut his trap or give him some tequila so he’ll chill out, please? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24 - 68kn). PAG Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PAEG

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On your way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 105kn). ALGB

www.inyourpocket.com Mmmmmm...cookies! Cukeraj A-2,

Britanski tr g 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, cukeraj@ cukeraj.hr, www. cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 21:00. PGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Fantastically delicious, healthy and vegetarian.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTNGB Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. So fresh and tastes like home made. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Millennium C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 50, info@slasticarnica-millennium.hr, www. slasticarnica-millennium.hr. Many people find their loose cookies delish, and their walnut torta is great. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGB Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@ torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. A selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets.QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGB Vincek C-2, Ilica 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 12, vincek@vincek.com.hr, w w w.vincek.com.hr. Probably Zagreb’s most popular dessert. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PNG

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries.

If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio. com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (www.novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www.orgona.com.hr).

Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, sestinski.lagvic@ zg.t-com.hr, w w w.sestinski-lag vic.hr. This folksy restaurant provides you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 130kn). PALGB

Pizza Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77. restoran. oliva@gmail.com, www.restoran-pizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 120kn). PAVGB

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Vege Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.

novarestoran.com.hr. Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75. Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). PAVGBS

Serbian Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60,

branislav.cvetkovic@gmail.com. Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town. Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 140kn). PAGB

Fun for the whole family zagreb.inyourpocket.com December 2011 - Januray 2012

CAFÉS

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG NEW

Cro Art Photo Club C-3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481

04 76, www.croartphotoclub.hr. Picture this: a photo gallery exhibiting a new collection every few weeks; walls filled with antique and modern cameras including museum-quality pieces; and black and white snap-shots displayed in casual arrangements under glass tabletops. Savor it all while sipping a coffee where local patrons may be donning film cameras or discussing their next artistic endeavor. Feeling inspired? The café-club hosts a sale of second-hand equipment every Saturday from 11:00 - 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Dvorište K-2, Maksimirska 31, tel. (+385-) 099 291 49 99. Conveniently close to Kvaternikov square, this cute little cafe is unique in its family friendly offering: a mini playground in its tucked-away interior terrance, inviting kids to romp sideby-side with parents enjoying the pleasant outdoor seating. For those less interested in swings and teeter-totters, the interior and sidewalk areas are cozy and inviting. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@ gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its

location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. NEW

Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 099 444

95 67, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr. Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. BWN U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB

Art Side of Cafés Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, divasbar@mail.com. T h e yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PBW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabbychic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-strokeflorist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE Bars NEW

Bar 45 C-1, Tkalčićeva 45, tel. (+385-) 091 577 33 89.

Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed July 23 - August 26. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. July 22 - August 22 Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. EB Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

This new kid on the block already has that old neighborhood favorite feel. Intimate enough to make new friends and roomie enough to get to know old friends better, the everything-good music selection enhances a stay-all-night atmosphere. Ask the bar-keep to introduce you to their headliner: a top-notch selection of mixed drinks and rakija. Groups welcome. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PBX Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00.

December 2011 - Januray 2012

27 29

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100a www. hines, ames.

NIGHTLIFE

Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PALGX

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin. Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri,Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B NEW

Gnijezdo J-2, Mesnička 36, tel. (+385-) 092 141 74

51, www.gnijezdo.com. This little “nest” in upper town has people flocking from all over the city for drinks, dinner and dancing. The adorable décor adorns a bar, dance floor and crows’ nest spanning two floors of cozy spaces for groups of all sizes. Two menu specials are offered daily from 11:00 - 15:00 for around 30 kuna. Drop in later for hors d’oeuvres and stay for DJ or swing band nights. Q Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NEW

Groove Club C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-) 091 334

40 00, info@grooveclub.hr, www.grooveclub.hr. Prepare all who enter: this VIP-room-like nightclub is an enticingly perfect party space and only steps from the main square. With lounge-style seating surrounding the main room, cocktail sippers and dance floor divas alike remain in the midst of the electric violet vibe. Your best funky but fresh attire gets you in the door but its the sleek décor awash in DJs beats that keeps you in, groovin’ the night away. Available for private parties. QOpen Thu 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. PJA

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen , Wed 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija. hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www.goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www.

sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Jarun lake Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB NEW

Pod starim krovovima C-1, Basaričekova 9, tel.

(+385-1) 342 48 51, www.oldrooftops.com. Zagreb’s oldest pub, “under old rooftops,” serves up much more than drinks and live music in its intimate tavern setting. Whether dropping by for tango on Tuesdays, Jazz on Fridays and Saturdays, a hearty breakfast or a nip from their superb drinks collection; visitors are enchanted by the warm, rustic style, cured in two centuries worth of local artists’ creative juices. Don’t be shy: the captivating staff is the heart of this ‘treasure of Croatian heritage.’ Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 40kn). W

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel.

(+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-) 098 193 12 81, khala@khala.hr, www.khala.hr. Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PABX Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00. There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. NBX Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A December 2011 - Januray 2012

WHAT TO SEE Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa

Jelačića) C-2. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled an d chu cke d in to a c or n er s o m e w h ere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought i t back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish ro om (ama teurs prepare your nose pin cers) an d ch e ese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda). Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues

Zagreb In Your Pocket

make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters i t has recei ved a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croa tia’s m os t fam ous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neoGothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s un d eniabl y over wh elmin g and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief histor y: 1093 founded; 1242 - the ini tial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.U

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene

umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

December 2011 - Januray 2012

WHAT TO SEE The Museum of Street Art Street Art is well and truly alive with the suburb of Dugave putting Croatia back on the art map. The beginning of September will see thirty local and international ar tists bring th eir spray cans, brushes, masks, and oth er hidd en treasures to reveal their expressive traits. The event will include 3D video mapping, nylon pupp e t s culp ture s an d oth er ima ginati ve tricks that will leave the audience spellbound. By September 15, Du gave will b ecome the biggest street museum in Croa tia. I t is a grea t symposium for the revival of forgotten parts of the city, promoting trends in creating street art throughout the entire region as well as a platform for networking.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica. hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 200 kuna per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

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WHAT TO SEE The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. The Croatian Natural

History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej)

B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm. hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be b oth ered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the laz y amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

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The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C-3/4. A forward thinking urban

planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant sp e ci e s, num erou s park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) i s al s o ma d e up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava wi th i ts Ar t Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finall y the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

December 2011 - Januray 2012

MAIL & PHONES Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed

Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous

Zagreb In Your Pocket

selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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GETTING AROUND Public transport

Taxi

Buses tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction. Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7.5kuna from your balance. Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

(+385-) 060 77 77, www.ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 14kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.80kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Oryx taxi Ljudevita Posavskog 7a, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 18 88, info@oryx-taxi.hr, www.oryx-taxi. hr. The starting price is 14kn with a 5.80kn charge per kilometre. Waiting per hour is 41kn and when it comes to your fury little friends, the transport of animals in a cage is 10kuna. There is no additional charge for transporting people in a wheelchair. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 970, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 1212, www.taxicammeo.hr. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 07:00 - 22:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

December 2011 - Januray 2012

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GETTING AROUND Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Centar Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2).

Airport

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, w w w.subrosa.hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa , tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Open 08:00 - 17:30. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING The heart of Zagreb has a smorgasbord of famous world and Croatian designer clothes. Simply doddle off to Gundilićeva and Frankopanska Streets (B-2/3) and you’ll find labels such as Max Mara, Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel… When you’re in the vicinity of the main square, head down to Varšavska street (B-2) for Kenzo. Those who prefer shopping centres there is Kaptol Centar, Importanne Galleria and the new Centar Cvjetni. A day out in town cannot go without a sneak preview or taste of some local delicacies and a visit to a gift or antique store which can be found on our listings. In addition, if you pop outside of the city centre, Avenue Mall (I-5) is a great shopping destination with all sorts of goodies and entertainment, simply catch tram number 6. Other shopping centres are in Jankomir, Lanište and Sesvete.

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

Boudoir

Hi, Fashion! Even during the most unwelcoming of weather, a stroll through the city center leaves no doubt as to the unshakable appreciation for fashion found flourishing in Zagreb. Whatever the season, shop window displays readily come to life side-by-side with classics from bigone eras on the inhabitants strolling the city’s streets. International fashion week favorites abound in shops citywide but what unique gems might the city hold for lovers of style? Local designers! Croatian creations take center stage at Fashion Days in September and Dreft’s Fashion Week in November but many local designs can also be found in boutiques just minutes away from the main square year-round. A recent interview with Designer Renata Svetić at her studio and boutique SVE (Mesnička 8) offered a glimpse into the exquisite quality and innovative stylings of Croatian design. While Svetić’s inspirations are global, her creations include a sense of the local appreciation for the fusion of urban life with seaside dreams. Her oneof-a-kind innovations include overcoats from local ships’ sails, delicate ‘Web of the Sea’ evening-wear, surprise pockets in all the right yet unexpected places and zippers designed into elegant curves along with all other manor of figure-flattering considerations. While she feels that “Inspiration is a moment,” her creations last a lifetime: Svetić’s wearable art spans from twists-on-a-modernclassic to bold and adventuresome; from daily wear to once-in-a-lifetime event regalia. Look for additional Croatian designs in shops like A’Marie (Gundulićeva 19), Boudoir (Radićeva 22) I-GLE (Dežmanov prolaz 4), Prostor (Mesnička 5) and Sheriff & Cherry (Medvedgradska 3).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall. com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Cvjetni trg, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/soping-centar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Daj koliko daš D-3, Pavla Hatza 7, tel. (+385-1) 558 48 70, info@citaj.com, www.citaj.com. The name of this bookstore says it all, ‘Give us what you can’, and it has a whopping 8000 books of all genres at very affordable prices. So take you pick! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N December 2011 - Januray 2012

SHOPPING

Heruc Galeria

Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna.

modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 54/(+385-) 091 793 06 32, andrea.rozic@zg.tcom.hr. Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Open 09:00 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art galleries BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/

(+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483

01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Bookshops Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55,

www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Brala C-4, Mihanovićeva 32, tel. (+385-1) 485 66 87, antikvarijat-brala@hi.t-com.hr. English books are sold here. Also at Dežmanova 3, Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Jesenski i Turk C-2, Preradovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 34 58, antikvarijat@jesenski-turk.hr, www.jesenskiturk.hr. Books in a variety of languages. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25, pomoc@profil.hr, www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizarazagreb@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture. Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, C-1 Kaptol Centre, Nova ves 17, C-2 Cvjetni, Cvjetni trg.QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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SHOPPING Art Shops

Marija Koprtla

Souvenirs Olimp-cro C-2, Ilica 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 03. In the corner of Trg bana Jelačića, it has things for your home on the cute order. Seasonally themed goodies are part of the offering. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Širok C-2, Bakačeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 52. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Teslina 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. As it is Christmas, the hours have been extended from 10:00 - 16:00. Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, mail@ multiracionalnakompanija.com, www.prostoreshop. com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode C-2 Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N

Cosmetics City Centre Muller C-2, Trg bana J.Jelačića 8, tel.

(+385-1) 489 31 50, dom@dom-zg.hr. Good choice.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Drogerie Markt C-2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-1) 367 01 00,

www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything from shampoo to mascara. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Iris C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-1) 240 20 01, iris@iris.hr, www.iris.hr. Cheap to expensive cosmetics and perfumes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Nivea C-2, Jurišićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 06, www. nivea.hr. Good selection, make-up consultation provided. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design

A’marie B-3, Gundulićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 35

24, www.amarie-fashion.com. A young designer whose feminine and modern clothes are a hit among fashion editors. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Boudoir C-1, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic, womanly and full of romance. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Charlie D-2, Vlaška 47, tel. (+385-1) 481 36 87, charliedesign@hi.t-com.hr, www.charlie-design.hr. Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. Friendly staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Elfs C-2, Amruševa 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 47, info@elfs.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING hr, www.elfs.hr. Dresses exacerbated by glitter, lace and silk for all those who want to have fun with a fashion sense. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Boja D-2, Jurišićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 481 76 72/(+385-) 091 254 10 73, vladina@galerija-boja. hr, www.galerija-boja.hr. The devil - or the glamour - is in the details...velvet, lace and detailed buttonwork set these clothes apart. Amex i Diners only. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. I-gle C-2, Dežmanov prolaz 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 08/(+385-1) 481 32 80, i-gle@i-gle.com, www.i-gle. com. I-GLE’s strong visual image and unique attention to the individual wearer have won the label a cult-like following. Their melodramatic and anything-but-traditional threads have been adorning Zagreb’s fashionistas and socialites for years. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A IK studio C-2, Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 93, ikstudio@net.hr, www.ik-studio.net. Beautifully-cut designer clothes with a finger on the fashion pulse and a hint of eccentricity. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Image Haddad C-2, Ilica 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 10 35, haddad@haddad.hr, www.haddad.hr. Contemporary clothing for women. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Kathy Balogh C-1/2, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 90. Croatian designer Kathy Balogh`s collection of fine clothing for ladies. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Nataša Jeletić C-1, Radićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 52, natasajeleticstudio@gmail.com. Croatian fashion designer, asymmetrical in style, sewed with discrete prints, and hidden buttons. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Nebo C-2, Radićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 35, nebo@ nebo.hr. This chinchilla specialises in interesting materials and custom clothing. Minimalist style. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Olja B-2/3, Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 62. Dressy clothes for women by the Croatian designer Olja. Everything is a size 40. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Roba Store C-3, Petra Preradovića 30, roba@roba.com. hr, www.roba.com.hr. Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands. Q December Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Closed January 1 - 15. January 15 - 31 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Robert Sever J-3, Martićeva 60, tel. (+385-) 091 569 61 72, shop@robert-sever.com, www.robert-sever.com. Well known Croatian fashion designer who strings together a successful combination of simple and contemporary pieces with a focus on artistic detail (colour, paint and cultural influences) which can be seen in each collection. Q Open by prior arrangement. Stolnik D-2, Vlaška 58, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 00, stolnik@zg.t-com.hr, www.moda-stolnik.com. Centrally located, this high-end Croatian labels weaves raw silks and unusual fabrics into imaginative structures designed to beautify. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Do you love Brahms? We are of course, talking about Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s piano quintets in E major, KV 452, and Johannes Brahms’ in F minor, opus 34. See their reproduction as performed by the Zagreb Saxophone Quartet, one of Croatia’s renowned chamber ensembles in cooperation with Israeli pianist Itamar Golan. An ideal gift for all classical music lovers! Info: Aquarius CD Shop Classics & Jazz B-2, Varšavska 11, tel.(+385-1) 639 16 70, www.cedeterija.hr.

XD Xenia Design C-2, Petrinjska 31, tel. (+385-1)

492 04 11, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design. hr. Designer who makes custom clothing suited to your size and personality. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Jewellery Bashota B-2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, dzan. bashota@zlatarnica-bashota.hr, w w w.zlatarnicabashota.hr. Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from modern and original designs to jewellery which has been nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 69 (+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. During December Open Sun 10:00 - 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Jozef Gjoni C-2, Jurišićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna.com/zlatarna-g joni. A ladies favourite with golden and silver jewellery, corals and pearls. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Julijana Rodić C-2, Bakačeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 37, msrodic@gmail.com, www.zlatarnice-rodic.hr. Unique, hand-made jewellery from Julijana, the award-winning silver creator. Right next to the Hrvatska Lutrija shop. Very special stuff for a special person. Also at C-2, Jurišićeva 10, and at C-4, Starčevićev trg (Importanne Centre).QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@gmail.com, www.nakitlumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Tesauruss

December 2011 - Januray 2012

SHOPPING Zagreb’s Brands Take home a true souvenir or gift from Zagreb as we highlight 7 potential beauties which can easily be found around town. The following gifts are gems that have their history, or their specialized taste, or such a good feel about them that the fond memories will surely remain. Baltazar A classic cartoon made in Zagreb during the late 60’s that had kids glued to TV screens. Professor Baltazar is a quirky, unique and gifted scientist whose witty inventions uplift the lives of Baltazar Town’s inhabitants. See 59 episodes that last between 5 to 10 minutes with an English version available. Copies are available at both Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55 and Profil C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25 book stores. Penkala A gentlemen named Slavoljub Eduard Penkala patented the first mechanical boil pen in the world in 1906 and shortly after invented the first ink pen with firm ink. He went on to patent 80 other inventions. In his honour, the TOZ Penkala Factory in Zagreb continues to produce Penkala products, replicas of the original pen can be bought at Peroklinika C-2, Ban Jelačić Square 15, tel. (+385-1) 481 80 26 and Narodne novine D-2, Trg žrtava fašizma 15, tel. (+385-1) 461 25 57. The White DTR Shirt So your brother, dad, husband or friend have a bundle of white shirts, but do they have a famous DTR shirt? The company became famous in the early 20th century with white collared shirts having a cute chimney sweeper with a ladder over his shoulder as an embroidered symbol. This is now a legendary icon and the company maintains great seasonal clothing; their service in making shirts according to measure is a best kept secret amongst business professionals. You can buy them in B-2 Ilica Street 25, tel. (+385-1) 483 33 68, B-2 Ilica Street 36, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 95, C-2 Teslina Street 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 64.

Mladen Grubić C-2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 487 37

43, studio.grubic@hotmail.com. This is a little gem, just off the main square, and is sure to make a vast contribution to your jewelry collection. The combination of materials such as gemstones, Murano glass, silver, wire, leather and wood have resulted in attractive pieces of ethnic, Africano and leather jewelry. You will find your ‘piece’ here! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Oblak C-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 91. Oneof-a-kind pieces by the Croatian designer Dijana Z. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Tanja Ćurin C-1, Radićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 482 85 12/ (+385-) 091 270 10 04, ivana.djeri@yahoo.com. Unique, handmade jewellery. Silver, gold, corals, turquoise... nice! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Thesaurus B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516 62 22, www.thesaurusjewellery.com. Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural materials mostly inspired by Far East. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Shoes&Accesories Alen Ledenko C-1, Tklaciceva 32, tel. (+385-) 091 111 14 05, info@alenledenko.com, www.alenledenko.com. A unique Croatian product made famous as customers get to create and design their own shoes with the assistance of professionals. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Frank’s ‘ciglica’ Coffee devotees step back and get the sugar cubes ready. Sure the Italians have Illy and Lavazza, but Croatia has its own brand in Franck. The company produces many famous food items but the Franck 250gram ‘ciglica’, is second to none and can be found in all grocery shops. So wake up and smell the coffee! Kraš - Griotte and Bajadera Over 100 years of history and the chocolates, fine desserts and nougat products made at the Kraš Company continue to melt in your mouth. Two of their specialties ‘Griotte’, a dessert made with real cognac, cherry and fondant poured into a chocolate mould and ‘Bajadera’, a sweet nougat chocolate have maintained both their flavours and fans alike for decades. Kraš shops can be found across the city and at the main Bus Station. CD Ivo Robić The Americans have Tom Jones whilst the Croats have Ivo Robić. He is the acclaimed chanson singer here and he reached world fame throughout the1960s. Nicknamed Mr. Morgen (the hit ‘Morgen’ meaning ‘tomorrow’), he even recorded with Dean Martin. His style of easy listening music and vintage CDs can be found at most music stores around town. Croatia Records C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 86 Zagrebački Melem Pamper yourself with Zagreb’s authentic all purpose cosmetic cream in Melem. It comes packaged in various natural skin protection products such as lip balm, face and hand creams amongst others. Melem is also known as the universal family cream and you can find it in all pharmacies.

Anita F-4, Tijardovićeva 20 (Across from Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, ashoo@ashoo. net, www.ashoo.net. A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Cahun C-2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 75, www. cahun.hr. Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made from all kinds of material. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Croata C-2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 26, oktogon@ croata.hr, www.croata.hr. Ties and varied clothing of rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Strugar B-2, Ilica 33, tel. (+385-1) 483 33 44, hstrugar@globalnet.hr. Winter is near and to keep those toes warm, visit this specific men’s shoe store with their own production of hand-made men’s shoes, also includes English Oxford shoes. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Second Hand Heaven Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn. Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kuna. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kuna. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s

Delicatessen Apiteka C-2, Prolaz Sestara Baković 1, tel. (+385-1) 487

27 55, info@radovanpetrovic.com, www.medpetrovic. com. A large hodgepodge of honey products used for both medical and cooking purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@bakinakuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bonkulović Delicasies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Chai - svijet čaja Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-1) 387 91 35, kontakt@svijetcaja.com, www. svijetcaja.com. The best quality teas from all over the world, utensils for making and serving tea, Belgian pralines, chocolate and other sweets. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg., tel. (+385-1) 488 20 16. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.

Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888

55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. (+385-1) 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja. hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A-2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@

delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Izvorno.hr Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, www.izvorno.hr. If you want authentic Croatian products then come hence forth and choose from their great range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Kandit D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www. kandit.hr. Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Also at E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 32 91, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Global Fashion Furla C-2, Petrinjska 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 22, www. martimex.hr. Bags, bags, ..diamante bags and whole lot more... QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Gentelman Club C-2, Ilica 38a, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 45. This classy boutique is men’s only territory serving up gentle clothes for gentle men. Find that perfect tux or suit for an evening out on the town-or maybe just a pair of socks. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Heruc Galeria B-2, Ilica 26, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 69, info@herucgaleria.hr, www.herucgaleria.hr. Stylish clothes without a hefty price tag. Karla D/E-2, Vlaška 65, tel. (+385-1) 461 63 75, karla@ karla.hr, www.karla.hr. Beautiful shoes for women. Their selection tends to be trendy, dressy and expensive. Also at B-3, Frankopanska 20, and at C-2 Teslina 15. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Maria B-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@mariastore.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. One of the most exclusive multi-brand shops in Croatia and their first luxurious conceptual boutique. You can also find many selected fashion labels from well known fashion brand publishers such as Stedel, Taschen, Flammarion and Skira. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Marks & Spencer C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 468 61 99. Young and hip casual wear. Treat your nearest and dearest to a gift voucher from Marks & zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Christmas Markets Tis the season of giving and gratitude! Seek out the perfect gift for your loved ones and perhaps even one for yourself. Prance through one or all of these Christmas markets for all your holiday needs. The Traditional Christmas market, is being held on Bogovićeva street, and ban Jelačić Square. In December, little wooden houses will contain all the Christmas goodies. The International Womens Club of Zagreb will be holding a Christmas Bazaar on December 4, from 10:00 to 16:00 at the Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15. Taste a variety of different foods and browse through a wide array of interesting products. A Christmas Fair will also be held from December 16 to December 30 at The Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15 in Zagreb (Admisson free). Find everything from A to Z.

Sparks’ Kaptol Centre store. Also at Arena Centre H-5, Lanište 32 and Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A Marquise C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 20, cwise@clockwise.hr, www.clockwisemarquise.com. Watches and jewellery of a special class and distinction right on the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Mura D-2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 492 96 37, mura@ mura.hr, www.mura.hr. Classic and high quality in a midprice range, this place caters to women and men between 30-40yrs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Roberto Boticelli B-3, Frankopanska 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 55 96. Italian shoes for women that are as pretty as a picture. QOpen 09:00 - 20.00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

December 2011 - Januray 2012

SHOPPING Kids Aha B-2, Masarykova 12, tel. (+385-1) 652 21 01, aha@

Staccato C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 06 56, staccato@lotos-trgovina.hr, www. lotos-trgovina.hr. Fine accessories: travel and leather goods by Porsche Design; luxury pens from Diplomat and Gremo brollies by the lorryload. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A Tommy Hilfiger C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 466 71 03. Crap clothes + designer label = expensive. Also at I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16 (Avenue mall), tel. (+385-1) 653 95 79. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A Tosca Blu C - 2, Ilica 8, tel. (+385-1) 683 39 21. A great choice of top-quality, fashionable bags. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Home comforts Amelie D-2, Jurišićeva 28, tel. (+385-1) 484 48 00.

Funky frames, lamps with which to decorate your abode.

aha.hr, www.aha.hr. Get your brain ticking with some great games for adults and kids, it offers didactic, brainteaser and all-round toys for all ages. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Hlapićev dućan C-3, Katančićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 72 24, www.hlapic.net. Toys, films, games... all inspired by the famous book character Šegrt Hlapić from Ivana Brlić Mažuranić most famous tale Čudnovate zgode Šegrta Hlapića (The Marvellous Adventures of Hlapić the Apprentice). In midnineties he became a cartoon character in a shape of mouse so his lovely face is a main motif in this store together with faces of his little adventure pals, Gita and Bundaš. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Music Aquarius B-2, Varšavska 13, tel. (+385-1) 639 16 73,

cdshopzagreb@cedeterija.hr, www.cedeterija.hr. Current music shop, CDs and Hi-Fi components. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

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QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina škrinja C-2, Petrinjska 20, tel. (+385-1) 492

02 92, bakina-skrinja@post.t-com.hr. Golly: it`s a gallery! Another one in Radićeva 21. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Diesel Home D-3, Petrinjska 44, tel. (+385-) 098 64 53 32, info@kaliterna-arhitektura.hr, www.kaliternaarhitektura.hr. The Diesel Label has gone above and beyond clothing, check out their furniture, lamps and bed linen collection to snazz up your home. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Habiter Chic D-3, Boškovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 22, info@habiterchic.com.hr, www.habiterchic.com.hr, One store with multitudes of items from the famous brand “House Doctor”.QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Home Sweet Home C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 640 97 10, kaptol@hsh.com.hr, www.homesweethome.com.hr. Home designs: glass, kitchenware and expensive plastics. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 15:00. A Korak C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 87, korak@filip-trade.hr. One place that adds unique and quality designed details to your home. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Modus C-1, Tkalčićeva 48, tel. (+385-1) 481 34 70/ (+385-1) 481 34 89, modus-trgovina@zg.t-com.hr, www. modusdesignshop.hr. Designer dinnerwear of a modern design, expect to pay a pretty penny. Fancy. QOpen 09:30 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Vikić Design A-2, Ilica 141, tel. (+385-1) 377 99 98, irena.vikic@zg.t-com.hr. A popular place to get lamps and lights. lluminate that darker space of yours with a unique piece. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00,17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 12:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Jabuke & Ruže

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Bashota

Jewellery with a Personal Touch If you’re looking for a special gift, a memento from Zagreb or a unique and distinctive piece of jewellery, try the Bashota jewellery shops. Since 1924, this family-run business has specialised in jewellery hand-crafted from gold and silver, precious and semi-precious stones, pearls and coral. Their designs include traditional Croatian jewellery such as the famous filigree work proudly worn by women in Dalmatia for centuries, as well as modern pieces inspired by Croatia’s cultural heritage. The new Šestine and Licitar collections include the most

Natural Cosmetics Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products? Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A L´Occitane I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16 (Avenue Mall), tel. (+385-1) 652 64 49, www.hr.loccitane.com. Complete nourishment for the entire body coming directly from the fields of Provance in France. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Lush C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 49, lush@ lush.hr, www.lush.hr. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes from England to make you smell fruity and fresh. You’ll smell the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Wine Shops Bornstein C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61,

info@bornstein.hr, www.bornstein.hr. A delightful cellar at the Kaptol location which also comprises an info centre about Istria. A high-class selection of mainly expensive, foreign wines. In our experience, the staff could benefit from being a little more customer-focused. Also at A-2, Pantovčak 9, tel. (+385-1) 482 34 35. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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famous motifs of Zagreb and Croatia: the Šestine Umbrella and Licitar Heart. Every piece of Šestine and Licitar jewellery is hand crafted from silver or gold and each and every one is hand painted with much love and effort. Each one is unique. The Bashota family are also known for their Art Deco designs, as well as hand-made jewellery which can be made from precious and semi-precious stones to accommodate your heart’s desires. Most importantly, the Bashota family understand that buying a piece of jewellery is above all an emotional investment. Call into their shops at Ilica 69, right across the road from the Britanski trg market, or at Ilica 37 - we’re sure they’ll give you a warm welcome. Bashota B-2, Ilica 37, www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr, (+385-1) 483 36 23. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at A-2 Ilica 69 (+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. During December Open Sun 10:00 - 13:00

Iločki podrumi C-1, Kaptol 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 93, ilocki-podrumi@zg.t-com.hr, www.ilocki-podrumi.hr. Ilok is a town in Slavonia known for its wines. This store is known for its good selection of them. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Jabuke & Ruže C-1, Nova Ves 6, tel. (+385-1) 466 67 47, www.jabuke-ruze.com. Apples and Roses honors the patron saint of gardeners through their offerings of local olive oils and jams in addition to an enticing selection of local and imported wines. Straight-from-the-cellar quality without the dank or the dark, a tranquil garden invites visitors to step inside the vibrant Vinoteka to savor this tribute to all that fruit can become. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA Kuća hrvatskih vina (The house of Croatian Wines) Zastavnice 13c, Hrvatski Leskovac, Lučko, tel.

(+385-1) 655 75 55/(+385-) 098 22 44 82, marketing@ kucahrvatskihvina.hr, www.kucahrvatskihvina.hr. To learn more about Croatian wine, you probably couldn’t do much better than take a trip to Kuća hrvatskih vina - the House of Croatian Wines. The display is arranged into four sections presenting wines from the main producing regions of Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Central Croatia. It is situated just outside Zagreb, appropriately enough at the beginning of the Zagreb County Wine Route just to the east of the city. The place to find that perfect gift and stock up your cellar prices start at just 20kn, though of course, the sky’s the limit. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Vrutak H-3, Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 364 37 05, vrutak@vrutak.hr, www.vrutak.hr. A treasure trove in the basement of an otherwise unremarkable wholesale-style supermarket: the biggest collection of Croatian wines seen anywhere ever, and a great selection of foreign wines and spirits too. A cocktail-meister’s paradise. QOpen 07:00 21:00. A

December 2011 - Januray 2012

SHOPPING The Watchmakers of Zagreb

Silvija Butković

Note: The text has been prepared in cooperation with the kind assistance of Mrs Vesna Lovrić - Plantić, with our thanks. One of the charming things about Zagreb is the survival of craftsmen’s workshops of the kind you don’t see so much any more. And one of the traditional crafts associated with the city, one with a history half a millennium long, is watchmaking. Some of the oldest documents testifying to the watchmaker’s trade relate to the maintenance of the city’s public clocks, such as the ones on the Zagreb Cathedral and on St Mark’s Church. However, at that time it was locksmiths who built and repaired clocks. Only later did those who chose to specialize become clockmakers. Since those were the days when German was a lingua franca in these parts, these craftsmen were known as “Grossuhrmachern” (German for “clockmakers”). It was only in the second half of the 18th century that clockmakers started to work on small household clocks and watches. A fascinating example of a hand-made clock in Zagreb which you can see at the top of the Zrinjevac park crowns a beautiful meteorological observation post. Look closely and you’ll notice that instead of numbers 1 to 12 you’ll see 1 to 24. A curiosity indeed. This clock was built by Wilhelm Koenig, one of the many well-known clockmakers of that time who came to this part of the world from other parts of the Habsburg Empire and settled here. In the interwar period, the clockmaker’s trade grew to encompass the manufacture, maintenance and repair of clocks and watches, as well as their sale. Zagreb was at that time a centre where craftsmen-to-be came to learn their trade, which was often passed on through generations - and still is today.

Zagreb’s Great Clocks The Cathedral’s clock is one of the city’s finest, and it has been undergoing a thorough restoration as part of the Cathedral’s recent renovation. The clock dates back to 1900, but more recently it has gained a sophisticated electrical mechanism with a satellite link. So if you ever need to check the right time, you can be sure that this momma is precise to the second. You can see a rather simpler - but equally beautiful mechanism on Tklačićeva ulica: a lovely sundial on the wall of the house behind the statue of famous writer

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Marija Jurić Zagorka. The sundial was put there in 1955 and is the work of one Božidar Jušić, who made it as his university dissertation. We imagine the lad must have passed with distinction. Zagreb’s romantic Upper Town has two more sundials, in the courtyards of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery and the Museum of the City of Zagreb. In 1924, one public-spirited bod decided that the good citizens of Zagreb deserved to have more clocks in public spaces, that they may ever keep pace with their busy schedules. One clock was mounted in the city’s main square, one on Roosevelt Square, and one on Tomislav Square in front of the main railway station. These still stand - and tell the time - today. In 1959 five more public clocks were provided, and more almost with every passing year, so that today the number of public clocks stands at an impressive 38. Some of them are well-loved parts of the cityscape. One that is among those closest to our hearts is that on the main square. If you agree to meet a local in the centre, it will very often be on the square, and you’ll very likely hear your counterpart say “Let’s meet under the clock”. Keeping all these clocks running to time is no small task, and ever since 1953 this has been the responsibility of a family named Lebarović, which specializes in this very art. Sadly, like many traditional crafts, the watchmaker’s (or clockmaker’s) trade is dying out, ravaged by, among other things, our addiction to our mobile phones. In the 1990s there were 75 watchmaker’s workshops in Zagreb, and now there are only 20. Many of these are restricted to the sale and repair of watches and clocks. Thankfully, the city authorities have realized what this loss means and have entered watchmaking on a list of protected cultural activities. To avoid the demise of this picturesque trade, the watchmakers themselves have a great task ahead of them: to continually improve their skills and keep up with current trends and technologies. The local authorities for their part will do their best to encourage youngsters to learn this craft and to keep watchmaking alive in other creative ways. If they fail, Zagreb will lose one more part of its identity. Dražen Siladi B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 33 04. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Lebarović K-2, Maksimirska 52a, tel. (+385-1) 230 53 33, www.urar-lebarovic.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 16:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Marinovich B-2, Dežmanova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 02, info@marinovich.hr, www.marinovich.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Pero Mamić D-2, Vlaška 57, tel. (+385-1) 461 63 67, info@peromamic.com, www.peromamic.com. Also at Gajeva 4, (+385-1) 487 07 00, Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Pero Šola C-2, Preradovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 60. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Puzak C-2, Prolaz sestara Baković 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 62, www.urarski-servis-omega.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Volarić Tomislav C-2, Bakačeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 37. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

LEISURE Westgate shopping centre is where you’ll find this bowling haven. Lane prices range from 70 - 150kn depending on the time of day throughout the week. Fridays and Saturdays prices are 130 - 150kn. Shoes are hired and in addition pool tables can be played at 40kn per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun Your mother might have told you that you need an apple a day to keep the doctor away. We heartily agree, but there are a few other things you can do to look after your health in the winter. Now that the cold weather is here, it’s a good idea to make sure your intake of vitamins is enough to keep colds at bay. The good news is that the diet that naturally evolves in various parts of the world generally provides the nutrients we need at a given time of year. Among the most popular kinds of foods in Croatia in winter are sarma (made with soured cabbage) and grah (bean stew). Soured cabbage is an excellent source of Vitamin C, and beans are full of protein and are a great source of B vitamins. Green vegetables are always useful in keeping up your levels of all kinds of vital nutrients, but it’s a good idea to eat an array of fruit and vegetables of various colours to get a full spectrum of vitamins. You can get your daily dose by cooking up rich soups and lightly steaming vegetables. Try grating spicy celeriac or horseradish and adding it to salads, soups or mashed potatoes. However tempting the prospect of staying at home in front of the television is when the weather is grim, you’ll find your energy levels stay up and you’ll succumb to colds less if you get regular exercise, so this is a good time to join that sports club or fitness class. A combination of aerobic and weight-bearing exercise helps keep up your bone density and prevents the onset of health problems related to excess weight. As a treat after all that effort, why not relax in a sauna? Studies suggest that taking a sauna, followed by immersion or showering in cold water can ward off colds, reduce stress, ease joint pain and help the body rid itself of toxins. If you have any pre-existing health problems, it’s always best to check with your doctor first. In Croatia there is quite a strong emphasis on preventive medicine. Many people opt for regular health checks such as blood tests for cholesterol, iron and blood sugar levels, blood pressure tests and gynaecological examinations. Because of the relatively low price and rather high quality of Croatian healthcare, health tourism is quite popular here, especially for dentistry and cosmetic surgery. As with any medical treatment, it is always recommended to check the doctors’ qualifications and experience first.

Bowling Bowling 300 Zagreb Savska opatovina 36, tel.

(+385-1) 387 90 70, info@bowling.hr, www.bowling. hr. Newly opened and boasts state of the art facilities. It’s located near the City Centre One shopping centre. The prices per lane vary from 75kn to 150kn according to the time of the day and day of the week. Children, students and those over 60 get discounts. Bowling shoes are hired and food and drinks are also available. It is possible to book online and there are pool tables at a rate of 42kn per hour. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. CityBowling Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra (Westgate shopping centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 11 00, citybowling@citybowling.hr, www.citybowling.hr.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

14:00 - 24:00. A

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije. hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Ice skating Dom sportova H-3, Trg Krešimira Čosića 11, tel. (+3851) 365 03 51. If there are no sporting or other events being held, the ice rink is Open Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 21:00 and Sat, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00, 20:00 - 21:30. Q Admission 15 kn. Skates 15kn. Klizalište Velesajam I-5, Ulica Jozsefa Antalla bb, tel. (+385-1) 655 43 57. Q Admission 15kn. Skates 15kn. ŠRC Šalata D-1, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55/(+385-1) 461 68 47, src.salata@zg.htnet. hr, www.salata.hr. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30, 20:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15 - 20kn. Skates 15 - 20kn.

Health

Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00,

Sat, Sun by request. A

Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.Q Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. December 2011 - Januray 2012

LEISURE Winter delights! Come the weekend, summer, winter, rain or shine, tons of citizens of the fair city of Zagreb head off to the Medvednica mountain. Why? Skiing, hiking, fresh air, nature and good food are the answers. At 1035m Mont Blanc it may not be, but it’s a good deal cheaper and gives you the chance to hone your skills and have a fun day – or evening - out. There are snow cannons, night skiing and the slopes host men’s and women’s FIS slalom world cups, while a ski pass and a hearty feed will leave you with change from 20 euro – check www.sljeme.hr for prices, conditions and opening times. If skiing and boarding are not quite your thing, you might choose one of the many hiking trails that snake all over the mountain. Whatever the weather, walking the wooded paths offers a good dose of fresh air and the chance to contemplate some fine vistas. Under a thick blanket of snow, the forests take on especial peace and charm, and your destination at the top - a wooden mountain lodge offering cheap and tasty home-cooked food - seems particularly welcoming. You can download a map from www.sljeme. hr. It’s worth exploring the well-marked paths because you can visit sights on your way such as caves, old silver mines, karst rock formations, meadows and streams… yes, you guessed, we love it. Just a couple of words of advice: take water and a change of warm clothes (it’s colder at the top and you’ll perspire on the way), keep to the marked paths and avoid coming down too late or you’ll end up groping around in the dark. A round trip to the top will take about four hours. A popular spot to start your journey is the tunnel at Dolje. Take the 14 or 8 (weekdays only) tram to Mihaljevac, then change to no. 15 and you’re there. You can start your walk here or hop on a bus to the top if you’re skiing. An easy hiking trail takes you to the Runolist lodge, open daily. Or, from Britanski trg, take bus no. 102. Jump out at the pretty church at Šestine, and you can start a hike which takes in the Medvedgrad stronghold and ends up at the Grafičar lodge (closed Mondays).

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this. Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Spa & Beauty

Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55,

welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Sveti Martin Spa & Golf Resort Grkaveščak b.b., Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 31 50 02, info@ spa-golf.com.hr, www.toplicesvetimartin.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Terme Tuhelj Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuhelj, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 14, info@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Top Terme Topusko Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 16, Topusko, tel. (+385-44) 88 60 06, info@topterme.hr, www.topterme.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

Yoga Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr. Q Open Mon 17:30 - 18:45, Tue 09:15 - 10:30, 19:00 - 20:15, Wed 17:30 – 18:45, Thu 17:30 - 18:45, 20:00 - 21:15, Fri 09:15 - 10:30, 19:00 - 20:15, Sat 11:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Sport events 08.12 Thursday - 11.12 Sunday

The Golden Piruette

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 301 23 23.

14.12 Wednesday

KK Zagreb CO - Unicaja

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Q Starts at 20:45. Tickets 20 - 30kn.

03.01.2012 Tuesday - 05.01 2012 Thursday

Audi Fis World Cup ‘’ Vip Snow Queen Trophy’’ 2012 Sljeme, www.snowqueentrophy.com.

31.01 2012 Tuesday - 11.02 2012 Saturday

UEFA Futsal EURO 2012

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb, www.uefa.com.

Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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INTERACTIVE

Workshops Advent Family Station H-5, Arena Centre Zagreb, Lanište 32. November 26 2011 - December 17 2011 Scissors, glue, glitter, and a whole lot of fun is what makes this Christmas ornament making workshop a barrel of mischief! Parents are invited to partake with their kids… Christmas cakes and cookies A-2, Makronova, Ilica 72/I. December 13 2011 Get into the holiday spirit and learn to cook up a treat as Tončika Cukrov holds a workshop dedicated to healthy versions of those scrumptious sweets, cakes, and other goodies dedicated to Christmas. Christmas handicrafts L-2, Dubrava Cultural Centre, Dubrava 51a. Get in the Christmas spirit and join these workshops. You can learn how to make the red “licitarsko srce“ hearts or scented posies traditional to the Zagreb region - call (+385-) 099 205 00 45 to book. Or on December 17, between 10:00 and 13:00, you can join any of ten free workshops making Christmas gifts and decorations. Computer Workshop: Piece of Cake I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 600 30 00, www.pou.hr. From December 3 2011 Great for beginners wanting a solid hand on approach to basic computer skills! No experience necessary: minimal theory and maximum practical work are key. The basics of Microsoft and internet use are the highlights. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours. Saint Lucy - a holiday of hope and light in the dark cold D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14,

www.emz.hr. December 13 2011 Swedish musician and mentor Allan Skrobe will present a lecture and workshop devoted to Saint Lucy. See how this feast day is celebrated in his homeland through song and film. QOpen 17:00 19:00.

‘Small’ Theatre: The house of the puppet’s story

I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www.pou. hr. From December 3 2011 Mums, dads, grandparents and kids, you are all welcome to this fabulous workshop that details the process of making puppets and props. There is also an insight into theatre looking at writers, puppeteers, scenographers, costume-designers and more. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Antonija Gospić from the Museum of Ancient Glass

Swedish traditional popular music D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. December 17 - December 18 2011 Want to know more about Sweden? Then get a musical insight from multi-instrumentalist and lecturer Allen Skrobe from the Jazz Academy in Sweden. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Winter Astronomy Workshop C-1, The Observatory, Opatička 22. Januar y 2 2012 - Januar y 4 2012 Constellations, the sun, the moon, the planets, and a whole universe more are just some of the concepts Višnja Srdelić will advocate to children. 20 attendees maximum and you can reserve via phone at (+385-1) 485 13 55 or email at info@zvjezdarnica.hr. Workshops accompanying the exhibition ‘Fire’

D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www. emz.hr. December 10 - December 11 2011 This will ‘blow’ you away as Antonija Gospić leads workshops in blowing glass pearls. This is sure to light up your day, you do need to reserve and all materials are provided. QOpen 11:00 - 13:00. Zagreb Open Show B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3. December 14 2011 The Europa Cinema has a cult status in this town and will be home to various projections of a photographic and multimedia nature. There is also a meet and greet of artists at the end!

Carting Car ting Ar ena I-5,

Z a g r e b f a i r , Av e n i j a Dubrovnik 15, Pavilion 35, tel. (+385 -1) 549 44 80, r eser vation@ karting-arena.com, www. karting-arena.com. The countdown begins with the biggest indoor carting event in Croatia. World carting champion Paolo Gagliardini will ensure top speed entertainment with a 480 meter long race track. You too can join in with gear and carts provided. Pavilion 35 will be smokin...

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

INTERACTIVE Keep Warm this Winter! 1. Winter at Kvatrić suddenly seems warmer as you enter the heated tent at the Kvaternik Square (J-2). Entertainment and an educational programme are sure to spruce things up. 2. Live Christmas Nativity Scene with characters. This year at Kaptol in front of the Cathedral, between 17 December and 6 January. At 16:15, 17:00 and 19:00h. 3. Dance away into the New Year with the New Gypsies band whose hot rhythms will bring cheer and warmth on a cold New Year’s Eve night, Ban Jelačić Square (C-2). 4. The Tkalčijana festival goes forth but this time in winter attire, between 27 -31 December. Enjoy Christmas carols and evergreen songs. Tkalčićeva ulica (C-1), every Thursday and Friday from 17:00 and 19:30. On Saturdays between 11:00 and 13:30h. 5. The Zagreb Tourist Association will hold a ‘New Year’s Folklore Night’ on New Year’s Day at the Comedy Theatre (C-1, Kaptol 9). Kicks off at 19:00h for all visitors to Zagreb. 6. Grace the ice-rink at Šalata (D-1, Schlosserove stube 2) with favourite hits to skate to. 7. Speed! Fire! Action! Ice Fever hits our ice-hockey team Medvesčak at the Zagreb Arena (H-5, Lanište 30) . Games schedule at www.medvescak.com. 8. Night of the Museums will be on 27 January. See all of Zagreb’s museums free of charge! 9. Rug up! Pack on your winter gear and head towards Mount Sljeme (tram number 8 or 14 to Mihaljevac, then tram number 15 to Dolje) for the Audi Fis Ski World Cup. Find out who will be this year’s Snow Queen and King. 10. Welcome to another world with exotic meals on the menu. Head to Radnička Street 48 (J-3) for a taste of Lebanon. Belly dancing entertainment every Saturday night at the Delize Libanesi Restaurant. 11. As the next bikini season is still a long way away, keep warm and relax at any of the multitudes of cake shops around town. Hmmm, the scent of cinnamon, clove, almonds... (See box at page 26). 12. With January winter sales just around the corner, this edition’s shopping pages are filled with affordable options for all to see and spree… See page 43. 13. Adore art! Until 22 January, the great masters of renaissance fine art await you at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1, Jezuitski trg 4): Titian, Tintoretto, Bellini, Carpaccio, Veronese.

14. A splash of health. With cold weather, dry air and wind affecting your skin this time of year, put a stop to such problems with Zagreb Melem. Read more on page 48 as well as other Zagreb souvenirs. 15. When was the last time you laughed in hysterics? Visit the Laugh Studio in Vlaška Street 92 (E-2). Weekly programme at www.studiosmijeha.hr. 16. How does one make the long winter nights vivacious? Well, we have a selection of choices for you; take a peep at our Interactive category, page 58. 17. Retro is in, make sure you check out our Second Hand Heaven Corner, page 50. 18. Croatia’s newest sensation, the ‘2 Cellos’ are conquering the world right now and will finally honour the Zagreb faithful as well. Be a part of this spectacle on 21 December (I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4). 19. Zagreb finally received its hale and hearty Fast Food Green Point on Varšavska Street 10 (B-2). Savour meals made from Himalayan salt and other healthy ingredients to help boost your immunity. 20. British DJ Fergie comes to mix his tunes and spread good cheer at the Sirup Club’s (K-3 Donje Svetice 40), Christmas Eve Party. A great time guaranteed! 21. Visit the Arena Centre (H-5, Lanište 32) for the Advent Family Station which is held every Saturday from 26 November to 17 December. The aim is to promote family fun by parents spending time with their children. Attend a Christmas ornaments workshop, or see the entertainment programme from 17:00 to 19:00h. 22. The Christmas exhibition opens on 7 December at the Zagreb County Tourist Office at Preradovićeva Street 42 (C-3). Learn more about the traditional costumes and Christmas decorations of Croatia. 23. Green Gold, Radnička Street 52 (J-3) invites you to experience night clubbing like never before, 6 clubs in one this winter. 24. The Močvara Club (I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb) offers cheap drink prices on weekends, Ožujsko (on tap) 12kn, Beck’s (0.5l) 14kn, bambus (coke mixed with red wine) small 12kn or large 16kn. 25. All those interested in graphic and product design head on down to the 2nd edition of artOmat fair (16 – 24 December, HDLU E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb) with 24 different exhibiters promoting their works and services. In addition, there are free art workshops and daily performances by renowned artists.

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Language Schools

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-

Emergency health care

Veterinary clinics

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel.

(+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

zg@berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. Moving to the new adress Palmotićeva 60 as of November. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+385-1) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagr eb Expat Meetup w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel.

(+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UBLI savjetovanje D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 40% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

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December 2011 - Januray 2012

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY Banks

Real estate

Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2,

Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info: 0800 18 52 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 00 80 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17 36,

info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel. (+385-1) 639 52 95. QOpen 08:00 - 17.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www. kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

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STREET REGISTER

29. X. 1918. C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2

Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3

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Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3

Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

December 2011 - Januray 2012