Zagreb In Your Pocket No65 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

April A il - May M 2012

Spring into spring! A season sprinkled with events of all sorts!

A flow of rivers

Discover the beauty and adventure of our national rivers through rafting, canoeing, fishing and much more

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CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Cinema Tour

Where to stay

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

Leisure is pleasure – Make the most of your free time by taking a day trip outdoors; get a dose of fresh air and natural scenery with heaps of riverside activities to be had.

Cafés Easily the best scene in the world! Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

31 33

What to see 26

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome

All those things you mustn’t miss

Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Interactive

Croatia‘s rivers

Leisure

Massage or Yoga

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

57 59

Maps & Index

Natacha Lesueur, Untitled, 1998 Frac Île-de-France Collection. A French frenzy of art – Spine chilling performance art that gives the word ‘risky’ a whole new zip!

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Transport map Street index City centre map City map Country map

61 61 62 64 66

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FOREWORD Spring is here and the flowers are blooming, the birds are singing and it’s the season of giving. Ok, enough with the sentimental lingo. We’re totally looking forward to April/May and we hope to ‘spring’ some lavish delights into your social calendars. After all, there are places to go, and see, and be seen. The past year has really brought a feeling of renewal in Zagreb . Like the crocuses now daring to show their faces in our back yard, there are new cultural events popping up all the time: art, film, music, architecture... We have an egg hunt of events in this years Spring rendition. Without haste, you can totally get into the Season of Easter with a dash of jazz and urban melody, art is as always compulsory and not to mention a shake of queer. The only trouble is, it can be hard to hear about these happenings. You have to keep your ear to the ground, and it’s particularly tough if you’re not a Croatian speaker. That’s where we’re here to help. Take a look at the Events pages, because there are things that are really a pity to miss. And, again, we have more clubs, bars and restaurants for your delectation. The long, warm evenings are coming at last. Plan to make the most of them.

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

inyourpocket.com twitter.com/inyourpocket facebook.com/inyourpocket youtube.com/inyourpocket

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Kerschoffset, Lučko Published 6 times per year

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It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geleen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets, including our first guides in Italy (Cagliari) and Belgium (Ghent). The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Kornelia Kovačević Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Opel Blitz, a detail from the traffic vehicle department in Technical Museum. Photo and photo editing by Želimir Beštak.

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings! Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. fivestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres. We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD I www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

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complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB BASICS Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

10 50

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 11,14kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 10,19kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,63 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,48 €1,35 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 05. 04. 2012): US$1 = 5,8kn €1 =7,5kn £1 = 9,1kn

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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HISTORY 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

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1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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CULTURE &HISTORY EVENTS

Manon

Rock & Pop Concerts 20.04 Friday

Fanfare Ciocarlia G-5, Aquarius Club, Matije Ljubeka bb, www.aquarius.hr. This twelve-piece Roma brass band has enthralled audiences worldwide with their fast, high-energy sound, complex rhythms and high-speed, staccato clarinet, saxophone and trumpet solos. Their repertoire includes traditional Roma folk dance music which is known to spark audiences alive whilst also playing a number of international hits. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 65 - 85kn available at the Aquarius music shop’s (Varšavska 13, Vlaška 44, Maksimirska 16) and Dirty Old Shop (Tratinska 22).

21.04 Saturday

Let 3

I-3, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. Get a taste of vintage Croatian rock that may leave your ears and eyes polarised. Sure, Let 3 can pelt out their chart topping hits and really explode on stage, at the same time they are known to resort to nudity and simulate some obscene moves on stage. Either way, punters are in for a real show! Q Concert starts at 22:00.

12.05 Saturday - 13.05 Sunday

Svadbas

B-4, Kset, Unska 3, www.kset.org. Popular Croatian rock band that has topped the charts with several hits and awards since their inauguration in 1994. The band is set to tour upon releasing their album entitled ‘Još’, meaning more. Other hits include ‘Crveno’, ‘Treblebass’, ‘Tko to zna’, ‘Umorne usne’ and others. Promo gigs have received rave reviews so far! Q Concerts start at 21:30. Tickets 40 - 50kn.

13.05 Sunday - 04.06 Monday

Thirsty Ear Festival

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Straying away from the mainstream and turning towards the contemporary rock scene, this festival sheds new light into the world of music that MTV cannot offer. The line up includes Sleep, Tindersticks, Tera Melos, Richard Buckner, Rocket From The Tombs and post-rock greats Tortoise.

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03.06 Sunday

Zaz

I-4, Boćarski dom, Prisavlje 2. So her songs are primarily in French, but be transformed with an evening of jazz, chanson and upbeat pop, by a young French woman nicknamed Zaz. She is taking the world by storm and her voice range, passion and groove is per excellence. With over five-million YouTube hits, Zaz is music jazz razzmatazz! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 195kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

07.06 Thursday - 08.06 Friday

Rokajfest

I-5, Zagreb fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, www.rokajfest. com. Nominated three times for one of Europe’s best midsized festivals, this event returns with a smack/crack/bang. Three confirmed acts to date include metal giants Slayer, heavy indie/progressive-rock outfit Mastodon and French troopers Gojira, a technical death metal band. Stay tuned for further bands set to spread the rock genre platter! Q Tickets 170 - 230kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

27.06 Wednesday

Sting

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. In his 5th concer t appearance in Croatia, the former front man of the Police returns to his rock roots as he celebrates 25 years as a solo artist. With hits such as Fall Out, Roxanne, Message in a Bottle, and Every Breath You Take... Tis no wonder he was indicted into the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 300 - 640kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Jazz&Blues Concerts 16.04 Monday - 19.04 Thursday

Jazz.hr

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. One event that puts the zzzz in jazz with some top-quality performers that include pianist Jan Gunnar Hof who stages his sacral music, legendary Cuban pianist Chucho Valdes & the Afro Cuban Messengers, and the flawless Josip Meixner returns home and is the perfect piano partner for guest vocalists.

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CULTURE & EVENTS 03.06 Sunday

HGM Zagreb Ja z z Orchestra f eat. John Fedchock I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Trombone extraordinaire John Fedchock has clearly cemented himself as one of New York’s finest jazz exports. He can vary his style playing from bop, or neo bop lines to pure improvisation with an up-tempo beat. Best of all, he seems to do it with ease, true artistry. He will be joined by our very own HGM Zagreb Jazz Orchestra! Q Starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

Classical Music Concerts 27.04 Friday

Zagreb Philharmonics feat. Edin Karamazov

Roots Manuva, Rokaj Fest

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concer t Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. A musical journey waits as the charismatic Karamazov, dubbed as the guru in resurrecting ‘the lute’ presents his thrilling virtuoso performances on the lute and guitar. Backed by the Zagreb Philharmonics, his set list ranges from 16th century classics to the sounds of today, a true musical exploration! Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 140 - 200kn.

08.05 Tuesday

The Zagreb Quartet B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. hgz.hr. Formed in 1919, they are Croatia’s oldest chamber orchestra and have performed at famous world concert halls such as the Sydney Opera House and New York UN Concert Hall. Their contribution to Croatian music art has been highly recognised and they continue to play a rich repertoire of classical music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.

Zg Jam Igut, Rokaj Fest

18.04 Wednesday

HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. David Gazarov I-4, Bajsić Studio, Croatian Television, Prisavlje 3, www. jazz.hr. We are in for a treat with one of Europe’s acclaimed pianists who is in high demand. Gazarov bellows keyboard mastery throughout his repertoire playing the music of great classical composers followed by original jazz and crossover compositions. He is also known to throw in the odd native Azerbaijan piece, a tribute to his place of birth!

06.05 Sunday

HGM Zagreb Jazz Orchestra feat. Barbara Dennerlein I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Let’s call her the mistress of the Hammond B-3 organ as German born Dennerlein weaves her fingers, and pedals her feet, like magic. Known for her creative and experimental compositions, Deneerlein can whip up funk and swing, as well as acoustic and electro elements. She treads the line between jazz and blues and is just as comfy on the pipe organ. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

23.05 Wednesday

HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. Deborah Carter I-4, Bajsić Studio, Croatian Television, Prisavlje 3, www. jazz.hr. The vocals of Deborah J. Carter go beyond the USA, she was raised in Hawaii and Japan and she encompasses these multicultural elements into her music. So one can hear Latin, blues and gospel, but she admits that metropolitan jazz is her beloved genre, Saturday night jazz with a cosmopolitan capital city feel!

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Saturday, 07.04 at 20:00

Swing dance workshop and dancing by Back to Swing! Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11 (1st floor / backyard)

Saturday, 14.04 at 21:00

Maja Savić & Joe Pandur feat. The Brazilian vocal ensemble Bossa Banda Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11 (1st floor / backyard)

Saturday, 21.04 at 21:00

4 in 3 - Joe Kaplowitz (hammond), Davor Doležal (guitar) and Borko Rupena (drums) Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11 (1st floor / backyard)

Monday, 23.04 at 16:00

Screening of the festival footage - JVC Newport Jazz Festival 2004 American Corner, The Bogdan Ogrizović Library C-3, Preradovićeva 5

Tuesday, 24.04 at 20:00

Group photo exhibition opening - “ZG JAM 2012” in cooperation with Omnibus World Workshop Teatar &TD Cafe B-4, Students Centre, Savska cesta 25

Saturday, 28.04 at 21:00

Dinko Stipaničev (guitar/vocals/sax), Mario Igrec (guitar), Jura Vrandečić (double bass) Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11 (1st floor / backyard)

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Kip Johnson in LOL (lots of love) - photo by Nuno Santos

12.06 Tuesday

29.04 Sunday

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. The newest Croatian sensation is this double bass duo that less than a year ago uploaded their classical performance of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal on You Tube and have since had over 5 million clicks, recorded and released a covers CD that has topped world charts and have been touring with Elton John. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

C-1, Movieplex Cinema, Nova Ves 17, www.movieplex. hr. A three act ballet composed by Dmitri Shostakovich where the ironic connection between a group of city-bred Soviet artists and some country bumpkins on a collective farm brings misunderstanding, love and intrigue. This ballet score is simple and tuneful with Movieplex relaying it live on the big screen.

2Cellos feat. Zagreb Philharmonics

Opera, Operetta & Ballet

The Bright Stream

01.05 Tuesday

09.10 2011Sunday - 24.06 2012 Sunday

The National Opera House Vienna - Anna Bolena

C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77, 486 07 76, info@movieplex.hr, www.movieplex. hr. Be a par t of the 500 cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present six spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

04.05 Friday - 16.05 Wednesday

Ballet from Bolshoi - Live at Movieplex cinema

27.04 Friday

Jenufa

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. This three act opera by Leoš Janáček premiered in 1904 and is a forbidding story based on death and redemption. The orchestration was initially well received across European capitals with our own Zagreb audience hosting the play in 1920. It was last performed at the Croatian National Theatre in 1946 and now returns to the stage.

28.04 Saturday

Manon

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The diva of divas Ana Netrebko stars as Manon in the French classic depicting the allure and joie de vivre of the music and spirit of La Belle Epoque. 18th century pastiche is all over this and it also stars Piotr Beczala, Paulo Szot and David Pittsinger. Screened live! Q Starts at 18:00. Tickets 95kn.

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CineStar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29; Cinestar Avenue Mall , Avenija Dubrovnik 16, www.blitz-cinestar. hr. The travesty, the treason and all for no good reason! Donizetti’s operetta drama is set in 16th century England and captures a quarrel of royal affairs. The compelling storyline matches the music and orchestration as performed by the Vienna State Opera and lead by stellar soprano, Ana Netrebko. Cinestar brings this 3 hour epic live from Vienna!

Sleeping beauty

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. See this fairytale come to life with its dynamic choreography, grandiose music and majestic stage scenes that make Sleeping Beauty one of the most beautiful classical ballets. Embark on a journey where the forces of good and evil clash and where court dances flourish. This is considered one of Pyotr Illytisch Tchaikovsky’s finest orchestrations. Q Starts at 19:30.

10.05 Thursday

Teatro Real Madrid - Cyrano de Bergerac CineStar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29; Cinestar Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, www.blitz-cinestar. hr. Live from Madrid, Cinestar takes you on a journey that portrays the life of Cyrano de Bergerac. A breathless opera based on a man with an oversized nose that had brought him much ridicule, yet his mastery with a sword and his own persona would forge a gasping plot. Spectacular staging with period costumes! Q Starts at 20:00.

April - May 2012 11.4.2012. 15:16:29

CULTURE & EVENTS L’amour du Risque 24.04 Tuesday - 17.06 Sunday

L’amour du Risque - From the FRAC collection (French Regional Museum of Contemporary Art) J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Art is meant to be freedom of expression. But what happens when we give it limits? When we add rules? Artists from FRAC have decided to take a plunge, to steer away from mainstream art and detach themselves from the rules. See how the French performance artist Orlan uses her own body and the procedures of plastic surgery to make ‘carnal art’, or Swiss artist Erwin Wurm who depicts the playing of one’s own body in photography. Then the French experimental dance group ‘Les Gens d’Uterpan’ provokes with their exchange of human liquids by using their saliva dressed only in underwear. All in all, these are artworks which put the expectations of the audience and art critics to the test. Does it pay off? See for yourselves.

19.05 Saturday - 04.06 Monday

Carmen

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. When it originally premiered at the Parisian Opera ‘Comique’ in 1875 it shocked the then conservative French audience. The power of passion changed to brutality and was difficult to accept. The newest production conducted by Johannes Wildner divides audiences because of the shortened partitures and the reduced Spanish folklore.

02.06 Saturday

Ivan pl. Zajc: Nikola Šubić Zrinjski B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. An inspirational opera retelling the tragic death of Croatian aristocrat Nikola Zrinjski after the Turkish siege of 1566. The libretto is filled with patriotic excitement whilst the music is extremely bel canto in style. The inspirational script and musical verses make this one of the long lasting Croatian operas. Q Starts at 18:00.

Dance 29.04 Sunday - 06.05 Sunday

Platforma.hr

Zrinjevac Park, Jedinstvo Factory, Trnjanski nasip bb, davorka@tala.hr, w w w.tala.hr. Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups that unite to present their experiences, ideas and individual dance approaches through shows, workshops and lectures. Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and greet of the regional dance scene.

21.05 Monday - 01.06 Friday

The 29th Week of Contemporary Dance Various locations across Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 464 11 54, www.danceweekfestival.com. Labelled as one of the largest festivals of its type in the region and it proudly holds the longest tradition in Croatia! It’s a melting pot for both local and international performers and is often a stepping stone for dance artists wishing to gain international exposure.

Exhibitions 01.12 2011 Thursday - 30.09 2012 Sunday

The Homeland War

Natacha Lesueur, Untitled 2000 Frac Poitou-Charentes

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

16.05 Wednesday

Royal Opera House London - La Fille mal gardée (The Wayward Daughter) CineStar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29; Cinestar Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, www.blitz-cinestar. hr. What happens when your mother interferes with the love of your life and impeccably believes she knows who your true soul mate should be? A tale of devotion versus greed set in a serene rural background filled with haystacks, chickens and ponies. Exquisite solos and dances with a witty plot make this ballet appropriate for all ages.

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Platforma

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CULTURE & EVENTS

28.02 Tuesday - 22.04 Sunday

11.04 Wednesday - 23.04 Monday

B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. The most valuable samples of liturgical clothing and items presenting textile motifs from continental Croatia will be displayed. The oldest embroideries date from the 13th century and of great value is the Renaissance chasuble decorated with golden needle work. The Baroque group of liturgical clothing is most presented (17th and 18th century).

C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr. Have you ever wanted to design? Alas costume design? Then take a step in the right direction with this exhibit that looks at the process of costume-making and walks you through the step-by-step method of creating and bringing to life your very own dream piece of work.

15.03 Thursday - 13.05 Sunday

C-1, Marton Museum, Katarinin trg 2, www.muzejmarton.hr. This is Art Nouveau, a universal style of art, architecture, applied and decorative art most popular between 1890-1910. It was inspired by natural forms, structures and cur ves. The exhibi tion will showcase masterpieces of applied art from prestigious world museums, Croatian museums and private collections. Especially intriguing will be a rare presention of erotic drawings by Robert Auer (1873-1952), a Croatian painter of modern art and art nouveau.

Liturgical Clothing from the Museum of Arts and Crafts collection

Edgar Degas - Dance Steps in Bronze C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. Degas was a famous Frenchman and one of the founders of impressionism, but too many critics his bronzed sculptures were his glorified work. The exhibit will display 74 sculptures of bathing ladies, horses, portraits and one torso. They reveal his talent in shaping body form and movement, as well as his trademark final touch on the surface of his works.

Ivana Bakal and Katarina Radošević - Tailored from askew (from the needle…. to the pattern)

20.04 Friday - 20.07 Friday

Jugendstil

15.03 Thursday - 15.04 Sunday

Piano Collection by Ljubomir Gašparović B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. The then and now of pianos is right here where viewers can see pianos from the ‘golden age’ - built by Viennise builders (made before or around 1850) through to the end of the 20th century. The advancements in aesthetics and acoustics in piano design are clear as well as the intensive use and history of pianos in Croatia.

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Svadbas

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CULTURE & EVENTS 29.05 Tuesday - 21.06 Thursday

Current 3 - Applied Photography B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5. As the title suggests, everything that is current raises our awareness. A selection of photographers aim to intrigue the audience as they dwell on the many facets of life, from media, politics, to global, social and economic issues. All current - yet may have been neglected if it was not captured, on camera!

Special events 17.04 Tuesday - 19.04 Thursday

Jalta, Jalta Munk Handclap 03, 13.04 Vip club

26.04 Thursday - 07.05 Monday

A Simple Machine

C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr. From ashtrays to coffee machines, simple handles to handrail designs and the many other random objects that surround us, Italian art critic Alessio Curto brings them to life with a focus on material, shape, design, pattern and other modern features. Curto promotes innovative achievements in contemporary fine art, fashion, and photography.

10.05 Thursday - 24.05 Thursday

The section for shaping clothing C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr. Get a taste of fashion and design at ULUPUH (the Society of Fine Artists of Applied Arts). A dedicated group of members who regularly exhibit, once again take action in promoting and presenting their role in fashion design.

10.05 Thursday - 10.06 Sunday

Zlatan Vrkljan

C-3, Ar t Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, w w w. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. The balance between line and colour is transparent in this new cycle of paintings by Vrkljan which is a direct follow-on to his previous work presented as triptychs and diptychs. His thematic dedication to cyclists is evident here as he crosses genres and maintains a high artistic pedigree.

14.05 Monday - 25.05 Friday

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr. Deemed by many as the best Croatian musical comedy! Set in Jalta, February 1945, during a conference where Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt were dividing the world. Their servants Griše, Larry and Stanley were having a war of their own, they steal the limelight and it is on for young and old as they quarrel over territory and much else. Q Starts at 19:30.

20.04 Friday - 21.04 Saturday

Briljantin

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr. Tell me more! Tell me more! The Croatian premiere musical of the hit movie ‘Grease’ has recieved outstanding reviews, titled ‘Briljantin’, this young cast of singers and dancers continues to attract fans from all generations as they relive the 60’s. Even the likes of John Travolta and Olivia Newton John would hail this Croatian musical a success. So take out the hair gel, put on the leathers and get into the spirit of Briljantin. Q Starts at 19:30.

21.04 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

21.04 Saturday - 29.09 Saturday

The Zagreb Time Machine

J-4, NO Gallery, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. What is the relationship between film and the internet? Is this the end of 35mm film? What about YouTube centred art work? All this and a whole lot more pertaining to new technology and media art via a series of conferences, exhibitions and performances.

Dolac, Ban Josip Jelačić Square, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and

Marta Soares, Queer Zagreb Festival

Animafest Zagreb

Video Vortex

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Mangroove Interwiev

ZIYP: Tell us a bit about the band… Mangroove (Željka): We play the music we love: funk, soul, blues… we adore black music but there are lots of other sounds that really inspire us, so you could really call us a mish-mash of styles. Right now we have five band members: Đuro Dobranić on drums, Hrvoje Kaučić on bass, Andrej Jakuš on trumpet, Toni Starešinić on keyboards and me (Željka Veverec) doing the vocals. The band has been going in one form or another since 2003. ZIYP: Which piece of work are you most proud of? Mangroove (Željka): We’re probably most proud of the fact that despite all the problems facing musicians who play this kind of music in Croatia, we’re still playing and are just releasing our second album. ZIYP: What does the new album sound like? Mangroove (Željka): Our new album, “Trip to the Moon”, is a bit of a concept album and there isn’t really a single kind of sound… it’s more everything that we wanted to say through our songs. Every song has a story, but all together the songs create something we call our trip to the moon.

giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

23.04 Monday - 30.04 Monday

Queer Zagreb Festival

www.queerzagreb.org. This multimedia festival aims at breaking down the stereotypes, dealing with social norms and advocating homosexual autonomy. It is open to all and really is one week of art, dance, film and music, ‘as queer brings cheer’.

So, like astronauts preparing to go into space, to walk on the moon, we’re preparing for our second album and for us that’s our trip to the moon. The album has funky moments, electronic stuff, instrumentals, pop and even a flirtation with jazz… Everything you’d take on a journey like that! ZIYP: What’s your biggest challenge right now? Mangroove (Željka): Our biggest challenge is to find our sound, remain true to ourselves and survive on the music scene as a band that doesn’t play the kind of music which is the mainstream in this part of the world. ZIYP: Which Croatian bands do you think are most worth listening to? Mangroove (Željka): You can’t really tell someone what music to listen to and I don’t make a habit of it: everyone should be free to listen to what they like. I can only tell you which bands I personally like to listen to: TBF, Majek, Chui, Punk data, Capiscone and Quasar. ZIYP: Which is the best alternative night spot in Zagreb? Mangroove (Željka): Good question: Zagreb hasn’t had a proper club that’s especially alternative for a long time. I hope I’ll be able to answer this question soon!

25.04 Wednesday - 28.04 Saturday

Test!13

B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, testzg.pr@ gmail.com, www.testzg.weebly.com. The philosophical elements of today’s world resonate at this year’s festival with theatre shows, multimedia works, performances, round-tables, and a special guest in French psychoanalyst Michel Nebenzahl. Gender roles or more so, their apparent Apocalypse, will be a point of discussion and a platform for artistic expression.

23.04 Monday - 28.04 Saturday

25.04 Wednesday - 19.05 Saturday

A-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, w w w. festivalznanosti.hr. A concoction of 10 years running and this event continues to bring the world of science closer to a wider audience. See the latest crazes of the science world as the central theme of this year’s festival is the number ‘10’, and for obvious reasons.

festival-sv-marka@zg.t-com.hr, www.festivalsvmarka. hr. Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at various venues and churches in the city’s Upper and Lower Town.

The 10th Festival of Science

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The 14th Saint Mark’s Festival

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CULTURE & EVENTS 30.05 Wednesday - 03.06 Sunday

The 47th Floraar t International Flower Exhibition J-4, Bundek Lake, www.floraart.net. We are quite proud of our horticultural heritage as various public events relating to flora and fauna first began in 1891. Over time, the city has blossomed with a tradition of medieval gardens including Maksimir Park and the Botanical Gardens. See the website for all your floral particulars.

01.06 Friday - 10.06 Sunday

Cest is d’ best

Abstraction - Modernism and Contemporaneity, Kulmer 12.04 - 24.06, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery

C-1, Square Jelačić, Flower Square, www.cestisdbest. com. Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the audience that gets involved and participates which explains this year’s motto ‘You too, are the festival’.

25.04 Wednesday

The Chinese State Circus A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Centre, Savska cesta 30. The spirit of the East comes to the old continent with a theatre show entitled, ‘Silk Road - acrobatics accompanying the music of humanity’. Audiences are taken to a magical world of Chinese traditions and cultural differences, as well as references made to the Silk Road through a combination of exquisite acrobatics, passion and humour. A scintillating acrobatic Troupe with props to match. Q Tickets 170 - 260kn.

18.05 Friday

International Museum Day The Museum Documentation Centre (MDC) alongside many Croatian museums will organise over 200 different events, exhibitions, workshops, lectures and concerts.So if you love your fair share of history and art come and celebrate with the city of Zagreb.

27.05 Sunday - 01.06 Friday

Festival of European Short Story Profil Megastore, Bogovićeva 7 and various locations across Zagreb, fekpmail@gmail.com, www.festivalprice.profil.hr. Fiction, non-fiction, romance, drama… No matter what genre, this event celebrates the works of authors from Croatia and beyond in a relaxed and ooozacious atmosphere. Renowned authors of contemporary European literature are amongst the guests and this year’s partner country will be Holland… So a Dutch feel is in order!

Pain Solution The HeadMaster 2, Freaky Friday

For the Kids 06.05 Sunday - 13.05 Sunday

Hillary the Witch goes to the Opera

All those household chores, 12.03 - 22.04, Zagreb City Museum

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 15, www.hnk.hr. A witch is haphazardly introduced to the world of opera, a world filled with passion, joy, sadness and anger, as only opera can do. Experience her journey with magic, witchery, charm and tension as playwright Peter Lund successfully shapes the musical taste of the younger generation. Performances at 11:00.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

01.06 Friday - 01.09 Saturday

Strossmartre - The 12th Summer on Stross

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, w w w. ljetonastrosu.com. Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lorščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U

Galleries

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

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tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U

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CULTURE & EVENTS Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije

Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s

Queer Zagreb Festival

Fun for the whole family zagreb.inyourpocket.com

(Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Funky Professor! Baltazar is an ingenious, colourful cartoon professor much loved by generations who grew up in the former Yugoslavia . Baltazar’s world is one of fairness and tolerance. There’s no problem that can’t be solved by the kindly professor with a touch of humour and the help of his friends. Thank goodness the Professor is so very, very clever! Realising that this is a resource of great national importance, the Croatian Ministry of Science, Education and Sports website (www.mzos.hr) has a link so you can write direct to the esteemed Professor. He will answer personally any science-type question you can dream of. Although Baltazar never really went away – he graces innumerable t-shirts, mugs and pencil cases - it seems once again he has hit top of the pops. You can watch him on Croatian TV (the morning and evening kids’ slots, Tue/Thu HRT2), and he’s on air once more in Italy too, where the funny, poignant and educational cartoons are being shown on the popular RAI 3 kid’s time slot. There are also DVDs you can buy in Croatian and Zagreb film, Baltazar in English showing all 57 episodes. A perfect treat for your kids, and for you too if you can’t resist indulging in a little nostalgia now and then. In fact, Baltazar is a well-travelled gentleman indeed: he is especially well-loved in Scandinavia, and he has reached corners of the globe as far as Iran , New Zealand and the USA . First screened in 1967, Baltazar is one of the most enduring creations of the Zagreb School of Animated Film, a movement that had its heyday in the 1950s and 60s with a stripped-down, low budget style born of necessity but with a close connection to Zagreb ’s avant garde art scene. Fans of the animated film of other countries (Czech and Russian spring to mind) will surely love the humble Professor.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Fanfare Ciocarlia

Small galleries Academia Moderna D-3, Augusta Šenoe 11, academia. moderna1@gmail.com. Q Open Tue - Fri 14:00 - 19:00. Admission free. Canvas Gallery (Galerija Canvas) E-2, Tomašićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 462 13 50, galerija@canvas.hr, www. canvas.hr. Studio and gallery of graphic art.They hold three exhibitions a month, so it’s worth looking in regularly. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Događanja K-4, Ivanićgradska 41a, tel. (+385-1) 230 31 22, galerija@kcpescenica.hr, www.kcp.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+3851) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Q Admission free.

Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, w w w.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00/ (+385-) 099 217 77 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr, www. kranjcar.hr. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun on request. Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

Lauba

Museum of broken relationships

C-1, Basaričekova 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 77, www. mijokovacic.com. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hdnaiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of brightcoloured paintings. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 74 11/(+385-1) 302 42 47, modulor@cekate.hr, www.cekate.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Mijo Kovačić Galerija)

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CULTURE & EVENTS SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-

1) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija.sczg. hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Bužančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel. (+385-1) 614 01 89, galerija.vladimir.buzancic@czknovi-zagreb.hr, www.czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Vladimir Filakovac Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Filakovac) L-2, Dubrava 51a, tel. (+385-1) 205 00 63,

Događanja Gallery

Marton Museum

galerija@ns-dubrava.hr, www.ns-dubrava.hr. Free entry. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+3851) 377 08 96, galerija.vn@kgz.hr, www.kvn.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija@morh. hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

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Skate Culture What do you do when you’re mad about surfing but are stuck on the city streets with not a wave in sight? Nail some wheels to your surfboard and – hey presto! You can sculpt your silky skills in style. This is pretty much how the skateboard was born back in 1950s California . Skating took off in a big way in the 1980s, p opularis e d b y th e laid-ba ck, reb elli ous demeanour of its aficionados. It has, of course, since spread all over the globe, spawning an entire counter-culture of art, fashion and music. Heroes such as professional skater Tony Hawk have crossed over to virtual reality with computer games making the sport cool even to the most committed couch potatoes. Even back in the 80s when the Iron Curtain did its best to shut off eastern Europe from western cultural influences, the more relaxed regime in Yugoslavia enabled kids to get hold of boards, music and paraphernalia, and the first skate parks were born here. Centres of urban cool such as Zagreb and Split saw armies of scruffily dressed kids perfecting their skills on any available patch of concrete. Skateboarding has often been regarded by polite society as an irritant, as much due to the sport’s affinity with the punk aesthetic as to cheeky skaters whizzing round bemused shoppers on busy precincts. But there’s no denying the audacity of their aerobatic tricks and it can be a spectacular sport to watch. If you’re up for busting an ollie with the locals or just checking out who’s got the most gnarly style in Zagreb , truck on down to the Mimara museum – the broad tarmac area in front is where skaters mostly hang out. Did you know? Norway banned skateboards between 1978 and 1989, due to the risk of injuries. Skaters built forest skate parks to avoid the plod. In its 1999 “Urban Warrior” programme, the US Marine Corps tested skateboards as a means of transport inside buildings to detect tripwires and snipers

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CINEMA TOUR

Animafest, Bonobostudio by BozidarTrkulja Zagreb has, alongside its share of plush multiplex cinemas, retained a fair number of old-fashioned picture houses that will delight nostalgia freaks as well as fans of European art cinema and other non-mainstream genres. Even better than that, a welcome side effect of the past couple of years of recession has been a revival of cinema-going, with a brace of rather unique new cinemas opening in these crisis-stricken years. If you don’t happen to speak Croatian, the good news is that almost all films are subtitled, not dubbed, so you’ll be able to follow the action if you understand the original language. The first cinema screening more or less as we know it in Zagreb took place in 1896, advertised by the slogan “Living pictures shown here!” Those famous pictures of a locomotive steaming full tilt towards the audience were shown to the dismay of much of the audience, who were then cheered up by a tableau depicting a row between a husband and wife, with the latter robustly administering a broom to the rump of the former to the general delight of the audience. Early public screenings were usually held in the open air or in circus-tents. In 1906 Zagreb got its first permanent cinema, at the spot where the city’s Hotel Dubrovnik now stands. The next cinema to open, in the same year, was today’s Kino Europa, then called the Cyril and Methodius Bioscope. Then cinemas started popping up like mushrooms all over the city. Some of them are still in use today: for example, Kino Tuškanac, then called the Olimp, also opened in the early part of the 20th century; and Kino Zagreb stands on the site where a former cinema, Kino Metropol, was demolished in 1931. As in most modern cities many old picture houses have closed down without trace, but in some cases the buildings have been saved and continue to be used for cultural purposes thanks to their unique design, which makes them ideal for use as theatres. So in the former Helios you’ll now find the Gavella drama theatre, while the Apolo, later known as Kino Croatia, is now the Kerempuh satirical theatre. If you fancy sampling what the wonderful world of Zagreb cinema has to offer today, here’s what you’ll find where.

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Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. An attractive old cinema, café and Saturday evening dance venue, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals, such as the Subversive Film Festival, Animafest (animated film) and Queer Zagreb screenings. Follow them on Facebook! Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn.

Subversive Film 05.05 Saturday - 19.05 Saturday

The 5th Subversive Film Festival E u r o p a C i n e m a , Va r š a v s k a 3 ; Tu š k a n a c Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Grič Cinema, Jurišićeva 6, jelena@subver sivef ilmf estival.com, w w w. subversivefilmfestival.com. This one of a kind festival raises the benchmark; it draws some great filmmakers, lecturers and activists, as well as screening world cinema of course; both of which explore the social context of our world, its convictions and turbulences. A tribute to Eurocinema 1950-2012 is on, as well as the Subversive Book Fair, and International conference Forum.

Animafest 29.05 Tuesday - 03.06 Sunday

World Festival of Animated Film - Animafest Europa, Movieplex and Tuškanac Cinemas, www. animafest.hr. Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy of animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in the field.

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CINEMA TOUR Croatian Film 16.04 Monday - 22.04 Sunday

The 21st - Days of Croatian Film B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.dhf. sczg.hr. The very best of the national film scene come together with the finest feature films, documentaries, animation, experimental and musical videos on show. The festival is competitive with many awards up for grabs as the cream of the crop of Croatian film get to mingle and jingle in a rich programme of film and fun.

Cinestar Spectacles, Romeo and Juliet

Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40

39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. This October there will be a cycle of award-winning Belgian films, followed by a cycle of contemporary Israeli film. In November you’ll be able to enjoy a review of Iberian-American film and a selection of excellent Malaysian titles. All of these can be enjoyed for the princely sum of 10kn per ticket. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. This space is undergoing a revival as a cult meeting spot. In October, this older-style cinema serves as one of the venues of the Young Choreograhers’ Platform. There’s a funky café, and the basement club hosts DJ parties open ‘til 02:00 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, featuring genres from dubstep through grime to 80s trash. CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. The comfortable, modern cinemas in the Branimir Centar and Avenue Mall shopping complexes usually screen the latest blockbusters. However, the Branimir Centar venue additionally hosts the Cinefest cycle of European productions. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+3851) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@movieplex. hr, www.movieplex.hr. This modern cinema in the smart Kaptol Centar shopping mall is home to one of the cinemagoing public’s favourite events, the annual Czech Film Week Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. KIC is the Zagreb Centre for Culture and Information, a hub for cultural activities of many kinds. The Art Cinema focuses on non-commercial film, documentary and animated film, and shows cycles by various directors and from the archives. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn. Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 08:30 - 22:00 or the net www.dokukino.net. In 2009 a small former cinema was transformed into a cosy venue, complete with colourful armchairs and nice café, specialising in the genre of documentary film. It was an immediate hit. At the time of writing, the schedule included topics as diverse as love, identity, Ernest Hemingway look-alikes, battles between nations and with multinationals. Many of the films have both Croatian and English subtitles. Q Tickets 20kn. Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Croatia’s first digital art cinema in the brand-new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children’s films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad.

Jewish Film 20.05 Sunday - 26.05 Saturday

The Zagreb Jewish Film Festival B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, www.jff-zagreb.hr. It isn’t Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film festival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes and culture. It’s steered by the festival’s president and double Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for venue and session details!

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WHERE TO STAY

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+3851) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/ zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q 378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh

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WHERE TO STAY Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Old-School charm The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1,

tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info. Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh

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Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). THABK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Parking 29€ per day. Q 27 rooms (10 singles €39, 11 doubles €55, 1 triple €79, 4 apartments €99, 1 Twin Room €69). PTJ6ULNGKW hhh

Hostel Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d,

tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravnice-youth-hostel@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravniceyouth-hostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RILNGXW

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WHERE TO STAY

Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triple €102, 1 apartment €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@slisko.hr, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh

Budget Jägerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www. hotel-jagerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specializes in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hhh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles €39, 36 doubles €45). A6GKW hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60, snjezna.kraljica@sljeme.hr, www.snjeznakraljica.com. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €95, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www. hotel-tomislavovdom.com; www.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDCW hhh

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Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

www.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 11.4.2012. 15:16:36

RESTAURANTS Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Isabella Vinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www.isabella.hr. A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 110kn). PLNGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PTAEGB Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, www.konoba-cesarica.hr. Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine. Probably not your best bet if you’ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices. The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac. Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 26

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

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RESTAURANTS

Konoba Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42.

An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 85kn). PAG

French Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (48 - 380kn). A

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com.hr, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@ marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice - a perfect dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG

Breakfast TavaKava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kuna. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (14 - 110kn). B

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RESTAURANTS Wine Gourmet Weekend 13.04 Friday - 15.04 Sunday

Zagreb Wine Gourmet Weekend The Croatian Academy Gliptotheque, Medvedgradska 2; Centar Kaptol, Nova ves 11, info@ zagrebwinegourmet.com, www.zagrebwinegourmet. com. A sumptuous pallet, eye for detail and appetite for cuisine are the prerequisites you need. Why? This three day feast of food and wine is set to spoil lovers of quality gastronomy. The event gathers the be all end all of the grand Croatian wine scene with tastings on offer, do not miss other specialties in liquor, beer, coffee, olive oil, cigars and more. This manifestation includes panel discussions, film productions, expert workshops, business networking and evening DJ entertainment to put the icing on the cake.

Japanese Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (40 - 180kn). PG

Mexican

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26,

info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr. Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/ (+385-) 099 707 44 22, www.restoran-laboca.com. Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn). PAGB

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 28

Caramba B-2, Savska 30, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 70, www.caramba.hr. A favourite for its exceptional Tex-Mex, locals are suddenly arriving in hoards that call to mind a cattle drive (only in this case it`s Croats, not cows). Could somebody tell the bastard parrot to shut his trap or give him some tequila so he’ll chill out, please? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24 - 68kn). PAG Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PAEG

Mighty fine wine Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553

53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open Mon - Wed 08:00 - 20:00, Thu - Sat 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 100kn). PALB NEW

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On your way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 105kn). ALGB Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, sestinski.lagvic@ zg.t-com.hr, w w w.sestinski-lag vic.hr. This folksy restaurant provides you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 130kn). PALGB

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RESTAURANTS Pizza

Serbian

Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60,

44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385) 099 302 07 77, restoran.oliva@gmail.com, www. restoran-pizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 120kn). PAVGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). PAVGBS

branislav.cvetkovic@gmail.com. Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town. Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 140kn). PAGB

Steak House NEW

El Bull M-2, Avenija Dubrava 70, tel. (+385-1) 644

17 79, www.elbull.hr. The sleek, nothing-but-class atmosphere of this top-notch steak house includes an enticingly not-so-subtle edginess possible only for pervayors of amazing meats. Situated as part of a hotel, spa, tea house, wine bar, conference center complex only steps from the tram lines, this new and notable addition is close to downtown and beautiful to see. Stop in for an unforgettable meal and discover why this house of grill has been so well advertised with a lip-licking, steak-thirsty vampire.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (45 - 200kn). PALB

Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (www.novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www.orgona.com.hr).

Vege Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.novarestoran.com.hr. Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing

ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions - definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar.com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/(+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www.vegehop. hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75. Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

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RESTAURANTS Desserts

Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 21:00. PGB Horak I-3, Ilica 160, tel. (+385-1) 370 16 80, horak@ horak.hr, www.horak.hr. Special cakes made in the traditional style.There’s enough sugar, sweet butter and sweet cream to produce an instant cavity or two or five. Open since 1929 (not continuously), they have entered the age of technology with online ordering and free delivery for orders over 150kn. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PAG Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. !Also at Barčev trg 16 (J-5, Utrina), tel. (+385-1) 669 88 88. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTNGB Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. A tiny little gem in Vlaška, we highly recommend you make a trip for a pick’n’mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Millennium C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 50, info@slasticarnica-millennium.hr, w w w. slasticarnica-millennium.hr. It’s not just the taste of the ice cream that drives us wild, it’s also the sight of the billows of ice cream like multi-coloured clouds laced with chocolate, fruit sauce and nuts: mmmmmmm, slaver. Presentation is everything, after all. Try the “Crick-o-Crick” flavour, we dare you. Warning: there is no turning back. The seating area outside is particularly stylish. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGB Oranž C-2, Ilica 7. A welcome addition to the heart of the city, the elegantly spacious Orange buzzes with guests chatting over coffees or sampling the dazzling array of Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 30

sandwiches and sweets. The crisp, modern decor is great for any group get together but even when flying solo, the variety of cheesecakes alone makes this a must-go. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AB Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PG Piece of Cake E-1, Petrova 66a, tel. (+385-1) 231 99 88. This funky new cake shop does deliciously light cakes. Try their Žarbo torta - a feast of chocolate and walnuts. Also at E-1, Gotovčeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 10. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PN Šarlota H-3, Ilica 205a, tel. (+385-1) 390 71 11, sarlota@favory.hr, sarlota.favory.hr. Come stuff your face in this appealing pastry shop where the warm smells of freshly baked pastries waft up from the kitchen below. On offer are a tantalising range of original Croatian and European treats, hot beverages and Italian gelato. Eat in by the window, making Ilica passers-by water at the mouth. Cakes also made for any occasion. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:45 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PNG Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@ torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! Also in Babonićeva 121(Šalata) E-1, tel. 099 343 41 15. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PGB Vincek C-2, Ilica 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 12, vincek@ vincek.com.hr, www.vincek.com.hr. Probably Zagreb’s most popular dessert hangout, particularly for the city’s teenagers and even more popular with everyone else for take away. Don’t be surprised to see queues. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PNG Zdravljak Sršek A-3, Andrije Žaje 43, tel. (+385-1) 309 13 62. Their cakes and pite (filo pastry pies with sweet and savoury fillings) are, we reckon, some of the best in town. This little place in the Trešnjevka neighbourhood is also a pleasant spot to sip a coffee along with your victuals. Also at Zavrtnica 17. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. PNGB

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CAFÉS

Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33.

What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.

Coffee talk

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Cro Art Photo Club C-3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, www.croartphotoclub.hr. Picture this: a photo gallery exhibiting a new collection every few weeks; walls filled with antique and modern cameras including museum-quality pieces; and black and white snap-shots displayed in casual arrangements under glass tabletops. Savor it all while sipping a coffee where local patrons may be donning film cameras or discussing their next artistic endeavor. Feeling inspired? The café-club hosts a sale of second-hand equipment every Saturday from 11:00 - 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Dvorište K-2, Maksimirska 31, tel. (+385-) 099 291 49 99. Conveniently close to Kvaternikov square, this cute little cafe is unique in its family friendly offering: a mini playground in its tucked-away interior terrance, inviting kids to romp sideby-side with parents enjoying the pleasant outdoor seating. For those less interested in swings and teeter-totters, the interior and sidewalk areas are cozy and inviting. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB

Espresso - watch out, espresso is actual regular, nofrills, coffee here Kava - the everyday word for coffee Bijela kava - ‘white coffee’ as in lots of milk or ‘latte’ Kava s mlijekom - coffee with a little milk added (macchiato) Kapučino - cappuccino Kava sa šlagom - coffee with whipped cream Ledena kava - ‘ice coffee’, often includes ice cream, whipped cream and fireworks Duga kava - slightly more diluted, not to be confused with... Dupla kava - which simply means ‘double’

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CAFÉS MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Art Side of Cafés

Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66, www.blokbar.com. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. B Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PBW Institut Par f umeur Flor es B-2,

Dežmanov pr ola z 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, inf o@ f lores-group. com, w w w. f lores-group. com. Think twice abou t comin g h ere i f you’ve alread y been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabbychic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-strokeflorist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@ gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 099 444 95 67, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr. Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. NBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB

Tkalčićeva We’ve often wondered what this street would look like if coffee was not available. The cafe runway that is Tkalčićeva Street is an excellent starting point for getting both a caffeine and people - watching fix.

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NIGHTLIFE CAFÉS

Mansion

Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 33

Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB

Bars Bar 45 C-1, Tkalčićeva 45, tel. (+385-) 091 577 33 89.

This new kid on the block already has that old neighborhood favorite feel. Intimate enough to make new friends and roomie enough to get to know old friends better, the everything-good music selection enhances a stay-all-night atmosphere. Ask the bar-keep to introduce you to their headliner: a top-notch selection of mixed drinks and rakija. Groups welcome. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PBX Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PA

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NIGHTLIFE Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel.

Gjuro 2

Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on

two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00. There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00.

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(+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin. Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Gnijezdo J-2, Mesnička 36, tel. (+385-) 092 141 74 51, www.gnijezdo.com. This little “nest” in upper town has people flocking from all over the city for drinks, dinner and dancing. The adorable décor adorns a bar, dance floor and crows’ nest spanning two floors of cozy spaces for groups of all sizes. Two menu specials are offered daily from 11:00 - 15:00 for around 30 kuna. Drop in later for hors d’oeuvres and stay for DJ or swing band nights. Q Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Groove Club C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-) 091 334 40 00, info@grooveclub.hr, www.grooveclub.hr. Prepare all who enter: this VIP-room-like nightclub is an enticingly perfect party space and only steps from the main square. With lounge-style seating surrounding the main room, cocktail sippers and dance floor divas alike remain in the midst of the electric violet vibe. Your best funky but fresh attire gets you in the door but its the sleek décor awash in DJs beats that keeps you in, groovin’ the night away. Available for private parties. QOpen Thu 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. PJA Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481

28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija. hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www.goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

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NIGHTLIFE not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L Melin C-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 66, www. melin.hr. This small space with a big reputation transforms from cafe-by-day to club-by-night while keeping its groovy vibe on at all hours. Situated just off the oh-so-famous Tkalčićeva street, Melin’s massive terrace has many locals gravitating here in warm weather. The interior provides copious niches and nooks, inviting for drinks in-style any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. B Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Closed June - September.

VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club.

hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30 kuna is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances.QOpen Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. NBX Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A

Kawasaki 3P

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WHAT TO SEE Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac

bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog)

C - 2 / 3 , Tr g N i ko l e Š u b i ć a Zrinskog. The combination of th e ou tdoor gazeb o, exper tl y manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a

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make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1,

Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coa ts-of-arms and also th e Za greb ci t y emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters i t has re cei ve d a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.You

mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around h ere late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

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WHATTO TO SEE SEE WHAT

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485

13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person.Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

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Contemporary Art Museum

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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WHAT TO SEE Saintly Sightseeing I f you’d like to visit sites in Zagreb with religious significance, Kamenita vrata (“the Stone Gate”), the Cathedral and the Museum of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac will probably be top of your list. If you have the time to explore the religious aspects of Croatia’s cultural heritage a bit further, you should also visit St Francis’ Church on Kaptol, where you can enjoy the famous stained glass windows by Croatian artist Ivo Dulčić, whose work was so groundbreaking that it sometimes incurred the wrath of the church authorities of the time. The windows, which he made in 1960, depict scenes from St Francis’ song “Canticle of the Sun”. Also, don’t miss the chance to see the south portal of St Mark’s Church in Gornji grad (Zagreb’s “Upper Town”), which dates back to the 15th centur y and d epicts th e saints in stone and wood. In the church’s interior you can also see typically powerful works by the great Croatian sculptor I van M eštrović. The Mimara Museum, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of the City of Zagreb also have valuable Photo: Zagreb City Museum collections of sacred art. If you are in Zagreb for August 15, you might like to witness the celebrations of the Feast of the Assumption in one of the Marian churches. You’ll find it’s a lively occasion, with a great many people attending a special Mass and enjoying picturesque fairs with food, drink and music. To wi tness this, tr y th e ch urch es in th e Zagreb neighbourhoods of Remete or Stenjevec, or in the following places in the Zagreb region: the Church of the Mother of God of Dol (Dol, near Krašić); the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Kloštar Ivanić, Kupinec (near Klinča Sela), Pokupsko, Nart Savski (near Rugvica), the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Snows in Volavje (Jastrebarsko) and the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Vukovina (near Velika Gorica). You can also join the people of Zagreb on traditional twoday votive pilgrimages to Marija Bistrica on the second weekend of September. If you are interested in buying a religious book, prayer book, gift or souvenir, head for Kaptol. On the street that leads north from the Cathedral you’ll find a number of specialist shops selling books and other items on religious themes. The Mother of God of Kamenita vrata became the patron saint of the City of Zagreb in 1991 on 31 May, the city’s annual celebration day, in the year when this was also the 260th anniversary of the shrine at Kamenita vrata. Kamenita vrata, or “the Stone Gate”, is the only one of four city gates that still survives from the days of the fortified lay settlement of Gradec. This became a special place and a shrine after a great fire in 1731 consumed everything leaving the portrait of Our Lady untouched amidst a pile of ashes. Since then, the portrait has been kept on an altar in a tiny chapel inside the gate, protected by an ornate grille. Many city folk come here to pray and light candles, to seek help, comfort and hope. The atmosphere in the little passages is very special, with the soft light brightening walls blackened by centuries of smoke from the candles. On the saint’s day of the Mother of God of Kamenita vrata, which takes place on 31 May each year, following a

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special Mass in the Cathedral a procession passes along Bakačeva ulica, across the city square and up Radićeva ulica to the shrine, carrying the portrait of Our Lady, and ending with prayers. Zagreb Cathedral Zagreb’s Cathedral is one of the symbols of the city, decorating many a postcard and souvenir with its unusual twin towers. It is the largest religious building in Croatia, and is dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and also to St Stephen the King. The Cathedral was built in stages from the 13th to the 16th centuries, and damaged many times by disasters such as earthquakes and fires. The most recent reconstruction of the Cathedral began in the 1980s and work on restoring the Cathedral’s exterior is still underway. In 1997, the grave of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac, an important national and religious figure, was rebuilt to include pictures showing key moments in his life. Pope John II prayed at the grave during his visits on two occasions, since Stepinac is a much loved and respected figure from Croatian history. The Cathedral’s Organ dates from 1855 and is a listed monument of cultural heritage of the highest order. The Treasury of Zagreb Cathedral contains a wealth of cultural treasures collected over eight centuries. It mainly consists of gold and silverware, as well as ecclesiastical robes, liturgical texts, instruments, documents, plans and medals. Since the collection was successfully protected from various occupations and attacks, it represents a large and important part of central European cultural and religious heritage covering the period between the 12th century and the present day. The Alojzije Stepinac Museum Al oj zi j e S tepi na c was Arch bish op o f Za greb between 1934 and 1946. He presided over the Catholic Church in Croatia both during the tim e th e countr y was governed by a Nazi puppet regime and was taken over by atheist communist authorities. He is known to have openly deplored the persecution of Jews, Roma and Orthodox Serbs by the fascist government of Ante Pavelić, and is c r e d i t e d b y Z a g r e b’s Jewish community with saving hundreds of Jewish lives at that time. He stood fast against the attempt by Tito’s communist government to detach the Croatian Church from Rome, and paid with his freedom and his life. The fact that he never attempted to seek exile, preferring to meet his fate and fight for the values he believed in within the borders of his home country leads him to be revered as both a religious figure and a national hero. Cardinal Stepinac was beatified by Pope John Paul II on his visit to Marija Bistrica on 3 October 1998. The Museum was opened in November 2007 in the Nebojan tower on Kaptol, close to the Cathedral. The collection depicts the life of the Cardinal, with personal artefacts, documentation and portraits. A memorial room is also open to visitors at Stepinac’s birthplace in the hamlet of Krašić, near Zagreb. Museum of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 489 48 79.QOpen 08:30 - 13:00, 13:45 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00, Sun, Mon on request.

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WHAT TO SEE Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

The Croatian Apoxyomenos B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5. The 192cm Croatian Apoxyomenos, a bronzed ancient statue depicting an athletic male figure, is temporarily being exhibited at the Mimara Museum and is open to the general public. It will remain at the Mimara until the museum within the ‘Kvarner Palace’, on Mali Lošinj is built. Over the centuries, only eight statues of this kind have been found throughout the world and amongst them all, the Croatian Apoxymenos is considered to be the best preserved and most authentically kept statue despite the conditions it had faced over time. The statue was found in 1996 by Belgian tourist René Wouters, off the islet of Vele Orjule and at the bottom of the sea, trapped between two rocks at a depth of 45 meters. The overall undersea research with state of the art equipment and preservation measures meant that it was finally raised from the seabed in 1999. It is presumed that it landed into the sea sometime in the 1st century AD but why? Experts denote that it was most likely a part of the cargo from a Roman ship and may have been thrown off board during a severe storm due to the danger of a shipwreck, it may have been thrown as a sacrifice to the gods for a safe end to a journey or even thrown off board in order to make the ship less heavy. Investigations covering an area of 50,000 square metres around the place of the finding found no trace of an ancient shipwreck. The conservatory work took years of desalination, demanding investigation and precise reconstruction as it was filled with sea debris and corrosive cracks. Now this magnificent cultural monument is available to the public to view as experts continue to make further studies and analyses. As they make conclusions about its style, the time period, the author, the technology of its making and cultural and historical context of its creation. Take the time to appreciate this glorious piece of art history - the depiction of a winner, the grand personification of an athlete.

Museum of Broken Relationships

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified bod y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

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WHAT TO SEE Nature injections Bundek Lakes J-4. Once a favourite walking and bathing spot that slipped into less than stellar condition, the Bundek Lakes were recently whipped into tip-top shape. This means that now you have one more place to spend a hot sunny day while enjoying all of your favorite outdoor activities. Lake Jarun A place to hang out when temperatures in the city begin to approximate those found on the outer rungs of hell. Boasting brilliant recreation, night-life, café and relaxation opportunities, it’s truly the best way to beat the heat. Located in the southwest portion of town (G-5), take tram 17 (Jarun) from ban Josip Jelačić Square.

You’ll be happy to see that parks and green places have been given a wealth of space in this capital city - they make for some of the best destinations in all of town. The numerous city parks - Maksimir, Ribnjak and Botanički vrt, to name a few - are well-kept oases of green in the middle of the city. The Medvedgrad mountain region just north of town is an exceptional expanse to take a break from city life and is only thirty minutes from the centre by tram. Jarun lake in the southwestern suburbs is a great recreation area too, encouraging locals and tourists alike to get out and get active. Botanical garden B-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that yes, there is more to life than cars, high-rises and computers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. There are also great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bear the weight of full-grown humans. QOpen Mon - Tue 09:00 - 14:30, Wed - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Sljeme/Medvednica When city stress and summer heat get too much for you, strap on your hiking boots and head up to Sljeme! Sljeme, at 1032m is the highest peak of Mount Medvednica, that cluster of hills and mountains that sits to the north of the city. There are a number of walking routes to the top, most of which take a few hours at most. The most popular ones involve starting at the village of Šestine (bus number 102 from Britanski trg) or from Dolje (tram number 8 or 14 to Mihaljevac, then tram number 15 to Dolje). Follow the track through the tunnel, and you’ll hit the paths that lead to the top. Eating and drinking opportunities abound and the beautiful meadows and walking trails help you to rediscover the simpler joys of life. If you’re into biking, there are numerous trails through Medvednica. Take a look at www.sljeme.hr.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo K-2. A perfect half-day outing for lovebirds, families or creatures of the four-legged variety, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all part of the equation, as well as clouds, sky and, periodically, the sun itself! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such, it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. As an added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 (Dubec) from ban Josip Jelačić to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.

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WHAT TO SEE

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 200 kuna per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

Zagreb’s Solar System

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg

Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s

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The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

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WHAT TO SEE The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda

3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www. hmnu.org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20 th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imager y is undeniabl y fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C-3/4, . A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara)

B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U

Typhlology Museum (Tiflološki muzej)

D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Museum of Street Art Street Art is well and truly alive with the suburb of Dugave putting Croatia back on the art map. The beginning of September will see thirty local and international artists bring their spray cans, brushes, masks, and other hidden treasures to reveal their expressive traits. The event will include 3D video mapping, nylon puppet sculptures and other imaginative tricks that will leave the audience spellbound. By September 15, Dugave will become the biggest street museum in Croatia. It is a great symposium for the revival of forgotten parts of the city, promoting trends in creating street art throughout the entire region as well as a platform for networking.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

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WHAT TO SEE

Photo Competition Be Local! Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky! The four competitions run during the following dates:

1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition. An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions. The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.

How to Enter

Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”. Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken. The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.

Conditions of Entry

We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for noncommercial purposes together with the name of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list. *Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

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MAIL & PHONES Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl. hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel.

(+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482

89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+3851) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

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Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455 84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Internet use 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. Internet use 0.25kn/ min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/h or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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GETTING AROUND MAIL & PHONES Public transport

Taxi

Buses tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1,5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 12kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 15kn. Daily tickets are 40kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8,80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9,90kn flat fee plus 4,90 kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo , tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction. Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7,5kuna from your balance. Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 07:00 - 22:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

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GETTING AROUND Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+3851) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33,

zagreb@subrosa.hr, w w w.subrosa.hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. (+3851) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa , tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Purchasing your ticket, made easier QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Road help (HAK) tel. 987 HAK - 987 J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. (+385-1)

661 19 99, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Call tel. 464 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road.

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SHOPPING

Saša Šekoranja The heart of Zagreb has a smorgasbord of famous world and Croatian designer clothes. Simply doddle off to Gundilićeva and Frankopanska Streets (B-2/3) and you’ll find labels such as Max Mara, Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel… When you’re in the vicinity of the main square, head down to Varšavska street (B-2) for Kenzo. Those who prefer shopping centres there is Kaptol Centar, Importanne Galleria and the new Centar Cvjetni. A day out in town cannot go without a sneak preview or taste of some local delicacies and a visit to a gift or antique store which can be found on our listings. In addition, if you pop outside of the city centre, Avenue Mall (I-5) is a great shopping destination with all sorts of goodies and entertainment, simply catch tram number 6. Other shopping centres are in Jankomir, Lanište and Sesvete.

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+3851) 659 10 50, off ice@avenuemall.com.hr, w w w. avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 47

King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Daj koliko daš D-3, Pavla Hatza 7, tel. (+385-1) 558 48 70, info@citaj.com, www.citaj.com. The name of this bookstore says it all, ‘Give us what you can’, and it has a whopping 8000 books of all genres at very affordable prices. So take your pick! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

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SHOPPING

Boudoir

Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna.

modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 54/(+385-) 091 793 06 32, andrea.rozic@zg.tcom.hr. Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art galleries BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/

(+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09

44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

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Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com 11.4.2012. 15:16:47

SHOPPING Bookshops Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55, www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc.QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Brala C-4, Mihanovićeva 32, tel. (+385-1) 485 66 87, antikvarijat-brala@hi.t-com.hr. English books are sold here. Also at Dežmanova 3,Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Jesenski i Turk C-2, Preradovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 34 58, antikvarijat@jesenski-turk.hr, www.jesenski-turk.hr. Books in a variety of languages.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25, pomoc@profil.hr, www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizarazagreb@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture. Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, C-1 Kaptol Centre, Nova ves 17, C-2 Cvjetni, Cvjetni trg.QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs Olimp-cro C-2, Ilica 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 03. In the corner of Trg bana Jelačića, it has things for your home on the cute order. Seasonally themed goodies are part of the offering. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Širok C-2, Bakačeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 52. Croatian souvenirs.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Teslina 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town.QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Hi, Fashion! Even during the most unwelcoming of weather, a stroll through the city center leaves no doubt as to the unshakable appreciation for fashion found flourishing in Zagreb. Whatever the season, shop window displays readily come to life side-by-side with classics from bigone eras on the inhabitants strolling the city’s streets. International fashion week favorites abound in shops citywide but what unique gems might the city hold for lovers of style? Local designers! Croatian creations take center stage at Fashion Days in September and Dreft’s Fashion Week in November but many local designs can also be found in boutiques just minutes away from the main square year-round. A recent interview with Designer Renata Svetić at her studio and boutique SVE (Mesnička 8) offered a glimpse into the exquisite quality and innovative stylings of Croatian design. While Svetić’s inspirations are global, her creations include a sense of the local appreciation for the fusion of urban life with seaside dreams. Her oneof-a-kind innovations include overcoats from local ships’ sails, delicate ‘Web of the Sea’ evening-wear, surprise pockets in all the right yet unexpected places and zippers designed into elegant curves along with all other manor of figure-flattering considerations. While she feels that “Inspiration is a moment,” her creations last a lifetime: Svetić’s wearable art spans from twists-on-a-modernclassic to bold and adventuresome; from daily wear to once-in-a-lifetime event regalia. Look for additional Croatian designs in shops like A’Marie (Gundulićeva 19), Boudoir (Radićeva 22) I-GLE (Dežmanov prolaz 4), Prostor (Mesnička 5) and Sheriff & Cherry (Medvedgradska 3).

Art Shops G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+3851) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. As it is Christmas, the hours have been extended from 10:00 - 16:00. Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 49

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SHOPPING Dreft Fashion Week 10.05 Thursday - 12.05 Saturday

I-4, Hypo Centre, Slavonska avenija 6. World trends showcase seasonal collections in fashion and this is the only International Fashion event of such

in Croatia. Stay up to date with the latest designs as 25 collections (autumn/winter 2012/13 ) will be shown from a rasping mix of local and foreign designers who have worked in some of the biggest trend setting capitals.

Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1)

485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@bakinakuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488

21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, w w w. prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Prostor Manufakturne Slobode C-2, Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen Apiteka C-2, Prolaz Sestara Baković 1, tel. (+3851) 487 27 55, info@radovanpetrovic.com, w w w. medpetrovic.com. A large hodgepodge of honey products used for both medical and cooking purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 50

A Shoo

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SHOPPING

The Watchmakers of Zagreb Zagreb’s Great Clocks

Stanko Abadžić, Zagreb - A Sketch for the Portrait, 05. 04 - 06. 05, Museum of Arts and Crafts Note: The text has been prepared in cooperation with the kind assistance of Mrs Vesna Lovrić - Plantić, with our thanks. One of the charming things about Zagreb is the survival of craftsmen’s workshops of the kind you don’t see so much any more. And one of the traditional crafts associated with the city, one with a history half a millennium long, is watchmaking. Some of the oldest documents testifying to the watchmaker’s trade relate to the maintenance of the city’s public clocks, such as the ones on the Zagreb Cathedral and on St Mark’s Church. However, at that time it was locksmiths who built and repaired clocks. Only later did those who chose to specialize become clockmakers. Since those were the days when German was a lingua franca in these parts, these craftsmen were known as “Grossuhrmachern” (German for “clockmakers”). It was only in the second half of the 18th century that clockmakers started to work on small household clocks and watches. A fascinating example of a hand-made clock in Zagreb which you can see at the top of the Zrinjevac park crowns a beautiful meteorological observation post. Look closely and you’ll notice that instead of numbers 1 to 12 you’ll see 1 to 24. A curiosity indeed. This clock was built by Wilhelm Koenig, one of the many well-known clockmakers of that time who came to this part of the world from other parts of the Habsburg Empire and settled here. In the interwar period, the clockmaker’s trade grew to encompass the manufacture, maintenance and repair of clocks and watches, as well as their sale. Zagreb was at that time a centre where craftsmen-to-be came to learn their trade, which was often passed on through generations - and still is today.

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The Cathedral’s clock is one of the city’s finest, and it has been undergoing a thorough restoration as part of the Cathedral’s recent renovation. The clock dates back to 1900, but more recently it has gained a sophisticated electrical mechanism with a satellite link. So if you ever need to check the right time, you can be sure that this momma is precise to the second. You can see a rather simpler - but equally beautiful mechanism on Tklačićeva ulica: a lovely sundial on the wall of the house behind the statue of famous writer Marija Jurić Zagorka. The sundial was put there in 1955 and is the work of one Božidar Jušić, who made it as his university dissertation. We imagine the lad must have passed with distinction. Zagreb’s romantic Upper Town has two more sundials, in the courtyards of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery and the Museum of the City of Zagreb. In 1924, one public-spirited bod decided that the good citizens of Zagreb deserved to have more clocks in public spaces, that they may ever keep pace with their busy schedules. One clock was mounted in the city’s main square, one on Roosevelt Square, and one on Tomislav Square in front of the main railway station. These still stand - and tell the time - today. In 1959 five more public clocks were provided, and more almost with every passing year, so that today the number of public clocks stands at an impressive 38. Some of them are well-loved parts of the cityscape. One that is among those closest to our hearts is that on the main square. If you agree to meet a local in the centre, it will very often be on the square, and you’ll very likely hear your counterpart say “Let’s meet under the clock”. Keeping all these clocks running to time is no small task, and ever since 1953 this has been the responsibility of a family named Lebarović, which specializes in this very art. Sadly, like many traditional crafts, the watchmaker’s (or clockmaker’s) trade is dying out, ravaged by, among other things, our addiction to our mobile phones. In the 1990s there were 75 watchmaker’s workshops in Zagreb, and now there are only 20. Many of these are restricted to the sale and repair of watches and clocks. Thankfully, the city authorities have realized what this loss means and have entered watchmaking on a list of protected cultural activities. To avoid the demise of this picturesque trade, the watchmakers themselves have a great task ahead of them: to continually improve their skills and keep up with current trends and technologies. The local authorities for their part will do their best to encourage youngsters to learn this craft and to keep watchmaking alive in other creative ways. If they fail, Zagreb will lose one more part of its identity. Dražen Siladi B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 33 04. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Lebarović K-2, Maksimirska 52a, tel. (+385-1) 230 53 33, www.urar-lebarovic.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 16:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Marinovich B-2, Dežmanova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 02, info@marinovich.hr, www.marinovich.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Pero Mamić D-2, Vlaška 57, tel. (+385-1) 461 63 67, info@peromamic.com, www.peromamic.com. Also at Gajeva 4, (+385-1) 487 07 00, Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Pero Šola C-2, Preradovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 60. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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SHOPPING Second Hand Heaven Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn. Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird. hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kuna. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kuna. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. Rock Buvljak I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68. You can buy, sell, mingle and jingle in ‘rock’ style at the first ever rock market which will gather all fans of the genre who can buy or sell anything connected to rock music (films, comics, CDs, DVDs, T-shirts, jewellery, posters, musical instruments, books) plus live bands performing. The rock market will be held once a month (Saturday 10:00 - 20:00), free entry! Photo: Želimir Beštak The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line. Photo: Želimir Beštak

Music Aquarius B-2, Varšavska 13, tel. (+385-1) 639 16 73,

cdshopzagreb@cedeterija.hr, www.cedeterija.hr. Current music shop, CDs and Hi-Fi components. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

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Natural Cosmetics L´Occitane I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16 (Avenue Mall), tel.

(+385-1) 652 64 49, www.hr.loccitane.com. Complete nourishment for the entire body coming directly from the fields of Provance in France. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Lush C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 49, lush@ lush.hr, www.lush.hr. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes from England to make you smell fruity and fresh. You’ll smell the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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INTERACTIVE Carting Carting Arena I-5, Zagreb fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, Pavilion 35, tel. (+385 -1) 549 44 80, reservation@karting-arena.com, www.karting-arena.com. The countdown begins with the biggest indoor carting event in Croatia. World carting champion Paolo Gagliardini will ensure top speed entertainment with a 480 meter long race track. You too can join in with gear and carts provided. Pavilion 35 will be smokin.

Computer Workshop: Piece of Cake I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 600 30 00, www.pou.hr. Great for beginners wanting a solid hand on approach to basic computer skills! No experience necessary: minimal theory and maximum practical work are key. The basics of Microsoft and internet use are the highlights. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours. Decoupage Technique - Furniture decorating K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, www. kcp.hr. 11 April - 25 April Do you have wooden shelves, tables, chairs, hangers and other items that require some TLC (Tender Loving Care)? Then bring them to this workshop and learn how to give new life and spirit to old furniture. Workshops will be held on Fridays between 18:00 - 20:00 and 20:00 - 22:00.

Workshops Art Workshop for Children K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, www.kcp.hr. The Peščenica Cultural Centre is all about fun! Workshops catered for children between 6 and 9 years old can work their creative imaginations. They will learn how to recycle daily materials, build and make models, paint, and collage. Held each Tuesday and Wednesday between 18:00 and 19:30. Cakes - Design and décor workshop J-5, Hospitaity - Tourism College, Kombolova 2a, www.latorteria. hr. Become a cake connoisseur and learn to bake, mix, decorate, cook royal icing and butter cream, make fondant and chocolate mould. Where else can you become a whisk whizz? Workshops are 2 days, with more information at info@ latorteria.hr or call (+385-1) 560 67 25.

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Ethno Workshop on Traditional Needle Work K-4,

Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, www. kcp.hr. Croatian traditional needle work has been around for centuries, discover its history and be taken through step by step presentations of various needle techniques. You will be able to apply them to creating your own original clothing and household items, jewellery and decorations. Thursdays 18:00 - 20:00pm.

‘Small’ Theatre: The house of the puppet’s story

I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www.pou.hr. Mums, dads, grandparents and kids, you are all welcome to this fabulous workshop that details the process of making puppets and props. There is also an insight into theatre looking at writers, puppeteers, scenographers, costumedesigners and more. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours. Soapmania C-3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 90, www.sapunomanija.com. Create your own soaps - shape them, colour them, scent them! Workshops last for 2 hours and are priced at 130kuna. Thursdays 18:00 - 20:00.

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CROATIA’S RIVERS

Croatia has a number of rivers, streams and underground springs that make this country a jolly nice place to be. All these water sources are important parts of Europe’s natural heritage. Croatia’s rivers flow into one of two seas: the Adriatic or the Black Sea. 62% of the country’s rivers flow into the Black Sea. This is perhaps surprising given the length of the Adriatic coast, but it’s due to the fact that the country’s two mightiest rivers, the Danube and the Sava, and therefore all their tributaries, flow tirelessly to the east. Other rivers that wend their way through Croatia’s central lowlands, forming long sandbanks along their way, include the Drava, the Mura, the Krapina, the Orljava and the Bosut. The Drava is one of the most pristine lowland rivers in Europe. In central Croatia we have the Korana, the Una, the Mrežnica, the Kupa and the Dobra - calm and green in their lower reaches, and sometimes interspersed with pools and waterfalls. Croatia’s uplands boast the rivers Kupa and Dobra and a wealth of brooks and streams. And those rivers that flow into the Adriatic are the Cetina, the Krka, the Zrmanja and the Neretva.

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Since some of these rivers are incredibly clean, they offer numerous tempting opportunities for sports such as rafting, canoeing and fishing, not to mention swimming and enjoying a good meal. The time when you can take advantage of all this is from April to November. In the spring when the rivers are high after the winter snows and rain, the experience of rafting and other sports is pure exhilaration. Novices might prefer to wait for summer when the waters are more sedate. Rafters may like to know that Croatia’s rivers are graded 3 for complexity, while anglers should be aware that you need a permit for freshwater fishing (contact the Croatian Sport Fishing Association, Trg Krešimira Čošića, www.ribolovni-savez.hr). The rivers which are perfect for a thrilling rafting adventure - or a refreshing summer dip - are the Kupa, the Mrežnica, the Drava, the Gacka, the Zrmanja, the Krka and the Cetina. The source of the Kupa is the rocky karst landscape of the Risnjak National Park. The river is 296km long and the waters are a bracing 7° Celsius. The river passes through the towns of Ozalj, Karlovac, Petrinja and Sisak. Call into the tourist information centres in any of these places for more information about messing about on the river. On the Kupa you can enjoy rafting, canoeing and fishing. In the summer months there are excellent places to swim at Pravutina, Jurov, Bubnjarci and Zibel (at the latter there are also restaurant and sports facilities). The Mrežnica is 63km long, with its source near Slunj. It joins the River Korana near Karlovac. It passes through the towns of Duga Resa and Karlovac: call into the tourist information centres in those towns for information: www.tz-dugaresa.hr, www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr. This river is great for boating and canoeing, and has loads of little waterfalls which are great for rafting. At some points calm pools have formed which are perfect for swimming: in the summertime the temperature can be as high as 27° Celsius. Around the beach areas you’ll find facilities including volleyball courts, biking trails (some as

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CROATIA’S RIVERS long as 50km) restaurants and lodges and a campsite in the Vrela Mrežnica canyon. Info: Kanjon park vrela Mrežnice, Trg Franje Tuđmana 15, Slunj, Gornje Primišlje, tel.: (+385-) 091 177 74 00. The source of the Drava is in the Italian South Tyrol. The river passes through Austria, Slovenia and Croatia before entering Hungary. It’s 720km long and in Croatia it passes through Varaždin, Legrad, Belišće and Osijek. As always, pop into a local tourist information office to find out more. You can enjoy canoeing and rafting (both the adrenaline and the more sedate kind). If you’re a bit more adventurous you can take part in a hunt for the “Drava Monster” in the nature reserve at Veliki Pažut at the confluence of the Mura and the Drava, or you can go boating in traditional wooden Drava boats called čonovi. If you happen to be in Osijek you’ll find restaurants and pubby eateries all along the riverbank. Be sure to try the fiš fish stew, or čobanac, a hotpot type meal. The River Gacka is in large part subterranean; in total it’s 61km long, while the overground part now covers only 11km. It passes through the town of Otočac. The Gacka’s waters are crystal clear, and it’s an amazing spot for anyone who fancies a bit of underwater caving or exploring sites of archaeological or natural interest. There are recreational and leisure facilities along the river, particularly country-style eateries. The river is renowned for great trout, and you can fish here between 1 March and 30 September. However, be aware that in the channel known as Karlov kanal near Otočac fishing is forbidden. The Plitvice lakes are nearby: an unmissable wonderland of lakes and waterfally: www.npplitvicka-jezera.hr. Also, don’t miss the mills at Majerovo vrilo - it’s like stepping back in time, and you can see flour being milled in the old fashioned way. There’s a tourist information centre to answer all your questions about the river and the surrounding area (open daily 10:00 - 18:00). The Zrmanja’s source is in the southern part of the Lika region; it flows into the Novigrad Sea. It’s 69km long and the biggest town it flows through is Obrovac. It’s fantastic for rafting as it has rapids and little waterfalls. It flows through a canyon full of interesting rock formations. The Velebit National Park is nearby (www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr), and you can visit or stay at the mountain lodge at Zavižan (Gornja Klada,

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SvetiJuraj , tel./fax (+385-53) 61 42 09). Sample local specialities such as spit-roast lamb, baked veal and local prosciutto and cheese at the gastro festival at Mićani dvori, Drage, Kruševo, Obrovac, tel. (+385-52) 21 82 39. The River Krka bubbles out of the earth near Knin and runs straight into the Adriatic, all 73km of it. It passes through Knin, Skradin and Šibenik. It has seven waterfalls made from travertine, a type of limestone. Also well worth seeing are the lake, island and monastery at Visovac. South of Skradin the Krka flows into another lake, Prukljansko jezero. The Krka National Park covers the river between Knin and Skradin. There are tourist boats which will take you to Visovac island, the waterfall Roški slap, the Krka monatstery and the forts at Trošenj and Nečven. There are several places where you can get something to eat and drink, and there are designated spots for swimming. For more info check out www.npkrka.hr. The source of the Cetina is in the northwest foothills of the Dinaric Alps. This river is 105km long, again it flows into the Adriatic sea. It flows through Sinj, Trilj and Omiš. The Cetina is great for rafting, canoe safaris, canyoning and more. Try the regional specialities of trout, eel and frog at Radmanove mlinice, www.radmanove-mlinice.hr.

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LEISURE Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. A

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 -

20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije. hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A

Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel.

(+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+3851) 304 66 66, www.sunce.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this. Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

Yoga Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr.

Q Open Mon, Thu 18:15 - 19:30, Tue 09:15 - 10:30, 19:00

- 20:15, Wed 11:00 - 12:15, 18:15 - 19:30, Fri 09:15 - 10:30, 18:15 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 12:30.

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY LEISURE

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+3851) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@ berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Veterinary clinics Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385 -1) 604 01 86/(+385 -1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr,www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with pharmacy attached. QOpen 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385 -1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

92 93 94 9155

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April - May 2012 11.4.2012. 15:16:51

LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Zagreb for children In most every human population it’s likely that a percentage of them will be children. Zagreb is no exception to this rule and as such, we thought it might be helpful for us to list places these strange creations are big fans of. Boćarski dom playground (Boćarski dom) I-4, Prisavlje 2. If the never-ending line of playground equipment weren’t enough to get your juices flowing, the halfpipe at the river’s edge will make you wish you packed your skateboard. From Trg bana Josipa Jelačića take N°17 west (Prečko) or 14 (Zapruđe) and get off at the Prisavlje stop. From there cross the street and walk a few hundred metres east on Prisavlje ulica. The playground is on your right. Bundek playground (Bundek) J-4, . Parks and lakes are an excellent time to relax in summer. Ride a bike, go for a walk, rollerblade, play Frisbee, cook a barbecue, or simply hanging out with friends…No matter what you prefer, this is a park for small and big children alike and everyone can find something for themselves. The kid’s swings are a winner! Horizons Kinder gar ten I -2 , Zelengaj 6, tel. (+385 -1) 457 82 05, milena@kindergar ten.hr, www.kindergarten.hr. With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excellent educational programme with creative workshops, arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc. - we can definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works

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in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Freehold Resort Home Ownership on the Adriatic Sea

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen

08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

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BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED RESIDENCES WITHIN A SEASIDE RESORT

Take advantage of this rare opportunity to own one of 25 recently released one and two bedroom residences. These fully appointed and professionally managed residences, ranging in size from 44 to 111 square metres, are situated in the ﬁve-star Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Resort only 12 kilometres from the historic Old Town of Dubrovnik. Ownership offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort, including a 201-room Radisson Blu hotel, award winning spa, sports centre and ﬁtness facilities, a variety of restaurants and bars featuring local and international cuisine, swimming pools, beach and water sports activities.

For more information:

www.dubrovniksungardens.com International Telephone +385 (0)20 361 650 or toll-free 0800 44 33 22

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY Banks

Real estate

Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2,

Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel.

tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička 47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17

36, info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb-65 - packaged.indd 60

(+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-proper ty.com, w w w.zagreb-proper ty.com. Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every ‘property’ need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www.joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com 11.4.2012. 15:16:52

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29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

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Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

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Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

April - May 2012 11.4.2012. 15:16:52

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design : igor kuduz *pinhead

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