Zagreb In Your Pocket No66

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB JJune-July J l 2012

20

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

Snapshot

See the winning photo of our ‘Be Local’ Luthansa Competition

Maestro N°66 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

A dedication to Ivan Meštrović, a world master sculptor

Seeing stars

Culture on hot summer nights

CONTENTS

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

6

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

7

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

8

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Magnificent Meštrović

10

A photo by Vanja Uolin from an exhibition in the ULUPUH gallerie

A world master sculptor

Culture & Events

12

Where to stay

24

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

What to see

37

All those things you mustn’t miss

Interesting and boring stuff included

28 33 34

Discover Zagorje

44 Good food, wine, and beautiful countryside just half an hour from Zagreb

Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

47

Getting around

48

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

50

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

55

Massage or Yoga

Euro 2012

57

Football fever hits Zagreb

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

58

60

Maps & Index Street index City map City centre map Transport map Country map

62 63 64 66 67

Say “aaaah luuurve the InMusic Festival!” See page 35.

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June - July 2012

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FOREWORD If you’ve just arrived in Zagreb , welcome, and we hope you’ll enjoy all the treats we have in store for you. We guess you’re either passing through on your way to or from the sea, here for a city break, visiting family or on a business trip.

We hope you’re going to be as delighted with this issue of ZIYP as we are.

Summer is truly the time when folklore is at its height in Croatia , because it’s always been one of the highlights of the tourist season, delighting visitors to Zagreb and the coast for years. Since some spectacular events are happening at the beginning of June, we suggest you turn to the centre pages without delay, and schedule some trips to the towns and villages around Zagreb , where there are some real treats in store. One area not to be missed is Zagorje, a mere 30 minute drive outside of Zagreb and you can enter a world of wineries, vineyards, ecotourism, wellness, spas, traditional hillside flavours in food and other hidden specials.

We have a feature article on the great Ivan Meštrović, the world recognised sculptor extraordinaire with many of his works on display. That ought to wind-up our art readers.

Apart from that, there’s been quite a lot of movement on the nightlife and dining scenes, so having worked up an appetite and a thirst whilst planning your trips, turn to the Where to Eat and By Night sections, where you’ll find out about some truly great new places to tune out, relax and enjoy the warm summer evenings. Živjeli!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

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Editorial

Copyright notice

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Kornelia Kovačević Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Stipe Marinović, Kumica. One of the participants of the photo competition.

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings!

Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. fivestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres.

We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD I www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

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Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00 Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB BASICS Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

75

10 50

0

25

-10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,27kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,56kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,63 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,36 €1,27 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 12. 06. 2012): US$1 = 5,8kn €1 =7,5kn £1 = 9,1kn

0

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic.

These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel.

456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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June - July 2012

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HISTORY 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led

by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected.

2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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HISTORY

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MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ

The Source of Life, 1905, fountain in front of Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, Goran Vranić Every country has its national treasures: people or institutions that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been otherwise. One of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. In his work you can clearly see the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues, very much larger than life.

Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character.

Stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin in Split and the most committed atheist can’t help

Goran Vranic

Zagreb In Your Pocket

being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky Dalmatian hinterland.

Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in Slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. There, his father Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a labourer on the new railway. The family moved back to their home village of Otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the young Ivan was tiny.

Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic Sea. The terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their environment. The tough conditions contrast with an austere but starkly beautiful culture. The rhythms of life are expressed in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea.

The young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads of the villagers and the Bible stories his mother recited by heart. He taught himself to read and write by comparing those recited stories with the pages of his father’s Bible. He tried to carve the characters from these tales in wood and stone.

At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by a number of people who raised the money necessary to send him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named Pavle Bilinić in Split. Split still today is a living museum with the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic, renaissance, baroque and later architectures. It’s easy to imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on to design some equally splendid buildings himself.

Bilinić and his wife Gina felt their charge showed exceptional promise and succeeded in bringing his talent to the attention of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who, among others, undertook to financially support Meštrović while he studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. Before that could begin, however, a new challenge awaited the young sculptor:

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MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ learning the German language. It’s important to remember at this point that Meštrović had never had any formal schooling.

His first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic currents of the time. It was here that he met his first wife Ruža.

Heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful fountain “The Source of Life” which today stands in front of the National Theatre in Zagreb, enabled the couple to spend time in Austria, France, Italy, Serbia, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the United States.

Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. In 1903 came the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna Secession group. In 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt won the first prize for painting. His circle of friends comprised the most renowned artists of the day. He created works which still stand today in countries throughout Europe and beyond. Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the Spearman and the Bowman (or the “Indians”) in Grant Park (Michigan Ave), Chicago. He was the first living artist to have a solo exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (1915) and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1947).

Meštrović left Croatia during the Second World War after his imprisonment by the pro-Nazi wartime regime. After the Second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at Syracuse University, New York State, and in 1955 moved to Notre Dame University, South Bend, Indiana, where he died in 1962. He was buried in his parents’ village of Otavice, Croatia.

During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the American Academy of Arts and Letters and the American Institute of Architects, and an honorary member of The Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. He became an American citizen in 1954. His

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Ada legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments and public buildings all over the world.

Ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in Split and Zagreb and chapels in Split and Otavice. These are now Ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public. The year 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the death of this remarkable man. So make a date to see some of his works.

Meštrović Atelier, Goran Vranić

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June - July 2012

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Red Hot Chilli Peppers

Rock & Pop Concerts 27.06 Wednesday

Sting

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. In his 5th concer t appearance in Croatia, the former front man of the Police returns to his rock roots as he celebrates 25 years as a solo artist. With hits such as Fall Out, Roxanne, Message in a Bottle, and Every Breath You Take... Tis no wonder he was indicted into the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 300 - 640kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

ZgKul A Zagreb Cultural Summer

The Zagreb Cultural Summer unites all the cultural events t that take place in Zagreb during the summer. Concerts, exhibitions, theatre, films and street performance - all of this and more are gathered under a cultural umbrella named ZgKul - that’s Zagreb Cool. There are 23 events in all, and there’s plenty for the little ones too in the Trešnja, Žar ptica and Zagreb Puppet Theatres. It all kicks off at the Tuškanac summer theatre on 27 June. Events featured include Art Viva Likum 27 June - 28 June; the Secrets of Grič interactive tour June - September; Opera Under the Stars 28 June; Summer Nights at Theatre Exit 28 June - 21 July and 30 August - 08 September; the Miroslav Krleža Festival 03 July - 07 July; Histrion Summer 12 July - 02 September; the Zagreb Cathedral Organ 12 July - 13 September, and a concert by the group Il Divo 17 September.

For the other events see our Culture & Events pages, and you’ll also find more information in Croatian on www. kulturauzagrebu.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

04.07 Wednesday

Wovenhand

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr.

New listeners beware: this soulful new-style country music is addictive from the first go. The increasingly popular Colorado group will be dishing out a heart-felt sound that will keep the old continent rockin’ and begging for more. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

29.08 Wednesday

Red Hot Chili Peppers I-4, Hippodrome, Radoslava Cimermanova 5. The chart topping rock-n-roll hall of famers are on the biggest tour of their 30-year career for their tenth studio album I’m with You. The first tour to include guitarist Josh Klinghoffer, the foursome has already rocked Around the World in Can’t Stop style with new favorites like Look Around and Dani California.

With the only open-air performance in the region, Zagreb is sure to draw plenty of RHCP faithfuls so get tickets early to join the jam. Music passion obligatory, tube socks optional.

Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 350 - 550kn available at www.eventim.hr.

INMusic Festival

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June - July 2012

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CULTURE & EVENTS Concerto in Cro 07.07 Saturday - 25.08. Saturday

Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski skii trg 4; Komedija Theatre, Kaptol 9 and other locations around the city centre, www.concertoincro.com.

Sunday: 15.07 Tuesday: 24.07 Saturday: 07.07, 28.07, 04.08, 11.08, 18.08, 25.08 This concert series feature the best of Croatian music creation through the past three centuries against a backdrop of lovely locales around the city center. Intended to entertain as well as educate, this richly cultural music experience is a showcase of Croatia’s top classical musicians and their artistry.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 09.10 2011 Sunday - 24.06 2012 Sunday

Ballet from Bolshoi - Live at Cineplexx Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 563 38 88, info@cineplexx.hr, www.cineplexx.hr. Be a part of the 500 cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present six spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

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Exhibitions

Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival

01.12 2011 Thursday - 30.09 2012 Sunday

The Homeland War

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

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Opening Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Thursday 10.00 - 19.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Opening Hours from 1 July to 30 September: Tuesday - Friday 10.00 - 19.00 Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Rooseveltov trg 5 10000 Zagreb Croatia Telephone+ 385 (0)1 +/ )/ ('' Fax + 385 (0)1 +/ )- './ E-mail: mimara@mimara.hr Audio Visual Guide on your smart phone and WiFi –Free

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28.02 Tuesday - 19.08 Sunday

Liturgical Clothing from the Museum of Arts and Crafts collection

B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. The most valuable samples of liturgical clothing and items presenting textile motifs from continental Croatia will be displayed. The oldest embroideries date from the 13th century and of great value is the Renaissance chasuble decorated with golden needle work. The Baroque group of liturgical clothing is most presented (17th and 18th century).

20.04 Friday - 20.07 Friday

Jugendstil

C-1, Marton Museum, Katarinin trg 2, www.muzejmarton.hr. This is Art Nouveau, a universal style of art, architecture, applied and decorative art most popular between 1890-1910. It was inspired by natural forms, structures and cur ves. The exhibi tion will showcase masterpieces of applied art from prestigious world museums, Croatian museums and private collections. Especially intriguing will be a rare presention of erotic drawings by Robert Auer (1873-1952), a Croatian painter of modern art and art nouveau.

depicts the playing of one’s own body in photography. Then the French experimental dance group ‘Les Gens d’Uterpan’ provokes with their exchange of human liquids by using their saliva dressed only in underwear. All in all, these are artworks which put the expectations of the audience and art critics to the test. Does it pay off? See for yourselves.

14.05 Monday - 31.08 Friday

Dubrava Zagreb - from the suburb to the city

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. As it passed from rough hewn, unpaved suburbia into city subdivision proper, take a pictorial tour through the development of the Dubrava district. This unique perspective incorporates the cultural and economic influences on the area’s past 80 years to depict Zagreb’s growth from countryside to capital city.

24.04 Tuesday - 17.06 Sunday

L’amour du Risque - From the FRAC collection (French Regional Museum of Contemporary Ar t) J-5, Museum of Contemporar y Ar t, Avenija

Dubrovnik 17, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Art is meant to be freedom of expression. But what happens when we give it limits? When we add rules? Artists from FRAC have decided to take a plunge, to steer away from mainstream art and detach themselves from the rules. See how the French performance artist Orlan uses her own body and the procedures of plastic surgery to make ‘carnal art’, or Swiss artist Erwin Wurm who

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„Prljavo kazalište“ in Dubrava, 1978. (Dubrava Library Archives)

June - July 2012

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CULTURE & EVENTS

29.05 Tuesday - 21.06 Thursday

05.06 Tuesday - 04.07 Wednesday

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5.

As the title suggests, everything that is current raises our awareness. A selection of photographers aim to intrigue the audience as they dwell on the many facets of life, from media, politics, to global, social and economic issues. All current - yet may have been neglected if it was not captured, on camera!

E-3, HDLU/Meštrović Pavilion, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.kabinet-grafike.hazu.hr. Dozens of prints unveil the virtuosity of some of Croatian’s most promising yet previously unknown, young artists. As only their craft can, the works evoke the social issues of the generation as art reflects life reflects art.

Current 3 - Applied Photography

02.06 Saturday - 02.09 Sunday

Roman Dodecahedron

C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. This twelve-faced bronze bit of the Roman era remains mysterious in its function and fascinating in its form. Having survived parts of a long past that included use as both a children’s toy and Christmas tree stand, the rare feat of craftsmanship will now take its rightful place on display amongst the city’s archeological treasures.

The 6th Croatian Triennial of Prints

16.06 Saturday - 26.06 Tuesday

The Simultaneity of Genesis

C-1, Ulupuh Galler y, Tkalčićeva 14. Picture x-ray photography through the artists’ lens. A group of artists with diverse styles have gathered around this singular theme for our ponderings and pleasure.

18.06 Monday - 30.06 Saturday

Around the world in a half hour B-3, 5th Zagreb Grammar School, Klaićeva 1. Thanks to phenomenal photographer and world traveler Davor Rostuhar, the globe and a taste of its glories will feel traversable in 30 minutes or less. With twelve rooms devoted to his books and photos, Zagreb’s 5th high school will become an interactive meeting point where the true gifts of travel will come to life for even the least experienced of voyagers.

18.06 Monday - 06.07 Friday

Stop the Debt

Oblok Gallery, Trg Dragutina Domjanića 6/I, Sesvete.

This third anual display of traditional handmade jewelry pieces will showcase a year’s effort for ten students learning the artform. While the focus of training centered on heritage preservation, their results stem from uniquely modernized interpretations.

28.06 Thursday - 09.07 Monday

A Journey through Time

Šalata Retro Open

C-1, Ulupuh Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14. The exquisitely sculptural jewelry of Smiljka Franjić makes for one of a kind wearable works of art. Simply elegant designs in natural and often ancient materials showcase a contagious enthusiasm for Mother Nature’s finest. Even non-jewelry wearers will find her artistry captivating as she brings pieces of the past to hand.

29.06 Friday - 07.07 Saturday

They Come - Kralj, Masnec, Vrečar A-4, SC Gallery, Savska cesta 25, www.galerija.sczg.hr.

Authored by three young yet prolific artists, this multimedia exposition explores themes of understanding through perspective shifts, ‘reality’ in media and messages lost in transmission.

Duba Sambolec, Exhibition

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CULTURE & EVENTS 29.06 Friday - 06.07 Friday

Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival Tuškanac Summer Stage; Plateau above the Tuškanac Car Park; Europa Cinema, Varšavksa 3; Zrinjevac; Fan Fan lounge, Varšavska 8, www.fantastic-zagreb.com.

Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival organized by the most quality-demanding movie theaters in town. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.

29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday

Fireworks Festival

Dan D

12.07 Thursday - 26.07 Thursday

J-4, Lake Bundek, w w w. vatrometi.com. What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the on-ground enter tainment whereas the fireworks, which are held every evening, will set the sky alive.

The third life of a tree - Hommage to the wooden Posavska house C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14. Wood workers Luka Jelušić and Hrvoje Vulama have been bringing the spirit of wooden materials to life for years. While each has his distinct style, the artists share a knack for infusing their highly functional pieces with a home-warming radiance. Their handiwork perfectly compliments the national project for the restoration of traditional Posavska houses.

17.07 Tuesday - 02.09 Sunday

Duba Sambolec

J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. The donated 15 piece collection of Dube Sambolec’s sculputres, installations and multimedia displays promises to enrish the museum’s permanent exhibits. Her studies on the use of space and dichotomous principles have garnered the artist international aclaim and further enhance the antipation to experience the artistic impact of life in their new display space.

Special events 15.06 Friday - 17.06 Sunday

D Day (Design day)

K-3, Stara klaonica, Heinzelova 66, www.dan-d.info. How divine is DDD Design? Creative thinkers, this international festival of design presents numerous regional designers working in the area of industrial design, self-initiated and pre-ordered designs, visual and fashion design and more.

It includes lectures by international experts, commercial D market, a D party, presentations, film screenings, and designer workshops.

16.06 Saturday

Šalata Zagreb Retro Open Tennis Tournament D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, www.tenfa. net. The glamtastic 70s and 80s spend the day alive and well in a second annual event entertaining sportsmen and spectators alike. Complete with prizes for best retro attire and standing long jump, come shake your groove thing in plat-formed polyester style. Wooden rackets and big hair required. Tournament begins at 09:00.

July and August

Pula and Motovun in Zagreb B-1 Tuškanac Summer Movie Theatre Pula and Motovun in Zagreb bring films from the Motovun and Pula Film Festival, marking the summery of the festival’s main programme. Tickets for all screenings at the price of 25 kuna can be purchased at the Movieplex cinema.

04.07 Wednesday - 06.07 Friday

Zagreb Tourfilm Festival

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, www.zagreb-tourfilm.com. A stag gering film and documentary anthology shot in the most must-see of Croatian tourist spots, this wonderful and original initiative aims at promoting tourism in a most refreshing way. While motivating travel promoters, the films also inspire any spectator with the country’s ‘lost pearls,’ just waiting to be discovered. Q Shows start at 20:00. Admission free.

18.07 Wednesday - 22.07 Sunday

46th International Folklore Festival C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.msf.hr. Children in folklore take center stage as the theme of the 46th annual festival devoted to cultural preservation and promotion.

Amateur performing artists from around the globe will conduct exhibitions and workshops. This excellent opportunity to experience the breadth of classical Croatian music and dance is free and open to the public.

27.06 Wednesday - 02.07 Monday

Eurokaz -International Festival of New Theatre h tr Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15; Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7; Gavella Theatre, Frankopanska 8 - 10, www.eurokaz.hr. For the 23rd year running, see contemporary theatre through dance, other artistic performances and phenomenon such as ‘iconoclastic theatre’, post-mainstream, body art and contemporary circus just to mention a few… Local and international productions are abundant. See the schedule!

Zagreb In Your Pocket

46th International Folklore Festival

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June - July 2012

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CULTURE & EVENTS a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German.

QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U Eurokaz, International Festival of New Theatre

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture.

As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr.

Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

My grandmother’s chair 1996, The HAZU Graphics Office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20 - 25kn.

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June Ju JJun une - July un JJu uly ly 2012 201 20 201 01 2

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CULTURE & EVENTS Top quirky events 21.04 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

The Fadil Hadžić Festival of Satire, 01.06 - 16.06, Kerempuh Theatre

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Cinemas Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr.

Cineplexx Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 563 38 88, info@cineplexx.hr, www.cineplexx.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat , Sun 10:30 - 22:00.

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world docs. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 08:30 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn.

Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr.

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn.

Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn.

Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn.

21.04 Saturday - 29.09 Saturday

The Zagreb Time Machine

Dolac, Ban Josip Jelačić Square, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

29.05 Tuesday - 02.09 Sunday

Strossmartre - The 12th Summer on St Stross B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www. ljetonastrosu.com. Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lorščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

29.06 Wednesday - 02.08 Thursday

Evenings in Grič

Atrium Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg 4, Gradec (C-1), www.kdz.hr. For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concerts performed by renowned Croatian and international musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb’s Lower and Upper Town.

31.07 Tuesday - 04.09 Tuesday

The Gradec Summer Cinema

C-1, Katarinin trg, www.ljetnokinogradec.com.

Missing out on this ever more popular summer cinema is almost criminal. The open-air venue gives Zagreb-ites another appealing August time option in addition to the sea, and a deeply artistic one at that! And don’t forget: watching a great movie can sometimes lead to places further than the largest oceans. Q Shows start at 21:00.

Admision free.

06.07 Friday – 28.07 Saturday & 20.08 8 Monday – 05.09 Wednesday

Amadeo Scene, B-1, The Croatian Natural History

Museum, Demetrova 1, (+385-1) 481 69 08, www. scenaamadeo.hr. A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatrein Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue. Tickets 50 - 60kn. Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00.

Evenings in Grič

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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June - July 2012

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WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+3851) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb.

Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 30€ daily.Q306 rooms (254 doubles €125 - 168, 28 suites €195 - 303, 23 Executive Rooms €150 - 193, Presidential Suite €1500).

PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1,

tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westinzagreb. com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-delu xe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available.

Pets welcome at 30€ daily.Q 349 rooms (308 doubles €133 - 183, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €183 - 233, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 21 Executive Suites €268 - 318).

PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBK DCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment.

Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480).

PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh

BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks.

Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls.

Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request.

Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187).

PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €78 - 123, 12 Family Suites €161 - 214, 22 Deluxe Suites €216 - 269, 17 Executive Rooms €98 - 133).

POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a,

tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms

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WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000).

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Old-School charm The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1,

tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info.

Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person.

Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555).

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Mid-range

Birds , Valentina Bunić

Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh

Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b,

tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-fromhome that draws local and international travelers alike.

Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-toknow fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time.

Thoughtful touches like a “little things you need shop”, cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while beeing only minutes away from the trams.Q26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination.Q16 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person. PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr.

Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostelaway-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless.

Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

opening soon.Q32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person.

PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, w w w. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spiri ts are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40.

Q30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravniceyouth-hostel@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youth-hostel. hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean.

The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride).Q36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RILNGXW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+3851) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs. hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there’s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service.Q215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARUGW

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WHERE TO STAY

Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn).

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Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Parking 29€ per day. Q 27 rooms (10 singles €39, 11 doubles €55, 1 triple €79, 4 apartments €99, 1 Twin Room €69).

PTJ6ULNGKW hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www. hoteljadran.com.hr. Located in the hear t of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location.Q49 rooms (44 singles €70, 44 doubles €85, 5 triples €101). PJA6LGKW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets.

Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triple €102, 1 apartment €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@slisko.hr, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh

Budget Jägerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www. hotel-jagerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side.

The hotel’s restaurant specializes in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127).

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City Center, Dorina Isufi

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHERE TO STAY Zagreb J-4, Damira Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel.

(+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@ hup-zagreb.hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles €41, 36 doubles €49). bARLGKW hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb.

Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 -118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, w w w.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q 41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84).

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Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center.

Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

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RESTAURANTS Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Chinese

Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal.

Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAGB

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Isabella Vinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, r estaurant@isab ella.hr, www.isabella.hr. A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a conver ted barn, with a sup er b ra f tere d dinin g room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). PLNGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. Q June Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. July, August, September Open 12:00 - 23:00.

(68 - 130kn). PTAGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Kaptolska klet C-1, Kaptol 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 48 38/(+385-1) 481 43 30, info@kaptolska-klet.hr, www.kaptolska-klet.hr. A warm rustic interior of stucco and massive wood beams makes for the perfect old world atmosphere for devouring old world fare - or perhaps a pint or two. The restaurant cooks up a Zagreb -Zagorje cuisine for reasonable prices. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 100kn).

PAGB Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika. hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it’s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conduci ve to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding.

Q Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Closed July 23 - Au gust 15. (70 130kn). PJAGB

Chic & Cheerful Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40.

Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and19:00 - 23:00).

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 70kn). PB Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open Mon - Wed 08:00-23:00, Thur 08:00-24:00, Fri 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-01:00, Sun 10:00-17:00. (15 - 75kn). P B TavaKava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kuna. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (14 - 110kn). B zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, www.konoba-cesarica.hr. Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine.

Probably not your best bet if you’ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices.

The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac.

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Tač H-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, inf o@ restac.hr, w w w. restac.hr. Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking. On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (40 120kn). PAILGBX Tip -Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49.

A clear example of content over style, Tip - Top offers a very tasty spread for a minimum of kuna. This place is a local favourite, a spot for spirited conversation or an evening paper.

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAG

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RESTAURANTS Desserts

Vegeterian corner

Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1)

Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (www.novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www.orgona.com.hr).

Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+3851) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert.

The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75.

Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way.

To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 125kn). PA

Trnjanka D-4, Trnjanska cesta 31, tel. (+385-1) 611 96

481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. !Also at Barčev trg 16 (J-5, Utrina), tel. (+3851) 669 88 88. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTNGB Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. A tiny little gem in Vlaška, we highly recommend you make a trip for a pick’n’mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge.

Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39.QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason?

Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream.

Nice old-skool vibe.QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 17:00. Closed Sun. PG The Cookie Factory C-1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 01/(+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@ cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr. Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibl y create some new ones! Generousl y portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. PJAGBW Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@ torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! Also in Babonićeva 121(Šalata) E-1, tel. 099 343 41 15.QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

85/(+385-1) 611 96 86, restoran-trnjanka.hr. The lamb is famous and authentic as can be - be prepared to spend as much time hunting for the meat amongst the ligament and gristle as you do actually eating. Once it has been found it is undeniably tasty. The decor is forgettable. QOpen 10:00 23:00. (55 - 95kn). PALGB Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05.

You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB

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RESTAURANTS

Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14

27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

Bosnian Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, tel.

(+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee.

Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn).

PAG Bistr o Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com. hr, w w w.bistr okarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@ marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service

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equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice - a perfect dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, info@marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (40 - 130kn). PALGB Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26,

info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr.

Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. (+385-1) 617 75 45, fellini@ fellini.hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location make it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAGB Il Secondo I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 66 09, info@ilsecondo.hr, www.ilsecondo.hr. Exquisite tastes at affordable prices are as inviting for a quiet coffee for two as they are for family meals. This addition to the Boban famil y I talian restaurants has even in cluded pri va te areas for large parties and small children. Just a few steps from Ave n u e M a l l , don’t miss this elegant home-away-from-home. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. (50 120kn). PAGB

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RESTAURANTS La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/ (+385-) 099 707 44 22, www.restoran-laboca.com.

Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn).

PAGB

Japanese Hanafuda H-3,

Zagor ska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80 33, info@ hanafudasushi. com, www. hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playin g cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you!

The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

(40 - 180kn). PG

Mighty fine wine Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553

53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station.

“Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar.

Q Open Mon - Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (50 - 100kn). PALB

Pizza Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16.

With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed August 1 - August 15. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn).

PAVGBS

Serbian Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60,

branislav.cvetkovic@gmail.com. Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town.

Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 140kn). PAGB

Steak Houses El Bull M-2, Avenija Dubrava 70, tel. (+385-1) 644

17 79, w w w.elbull.hr. The sleek, nothing-but-class atmosphere of this top-notch steak house includes an enticingly not-so-subtle edginess possible only for pervayors of amazing meats. Situated as part of a hotel, spa, tea house, wine bar, conference center complex only steps from the tram lines, this new and notable addition is close to downtown and beautiful to see. Stop in for an unforgettable meal and discover why this house of grill has been so well advertised with a lip-licking, steak-thirsty vampire. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(45-200kn). PALB

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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CAFÉS Booksa

D-2, Mar tićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www. booksa.hr. Booksa is th e meeting place of a li terar y association s tar te d up b y thre e young women writers.

As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why.

This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 527 99 90, nik@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PG K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33.

What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top.

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@ gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.

Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 099 444 95 67, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr.

Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection.

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Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events.

With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. NBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB Zrin C-2/3, Berislavićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 38. Zrin is a classy and quiet underground locale to share a drink and conversation in. The art is antique in nature, and the colour scheme is a soft brown and cream combination, making for a very relaxed feeling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B

Art Side of Cafés Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66, www.blokbar.com. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. B Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, divasbar@ mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PBW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabbychic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-strokeflorist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P June - July 2012

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NIGHTLIFE Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53,

Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed July 27 - August 23. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.

purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.

July 15 - August 15 Open Mon 19:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB

Bars

Club Nights 07.07 Saturday

Green Gold Summer Fest 2012 - Barbara Tucker, J-3, Green Gold Centre, Radnicka cesta

52, w w w.greengoldclub.com.hr. This sin gin g sensation has been dazzling Europe for 25 years and is now coming to Zagreb with her soulful RnB sound that reaches right down and touches the bones. Her strong, charismatic voice and funky rhythm are accented by a joyfully choreographed stage show - an excellent way to give summer the start it deserves. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 60kn available at the Green Gold Club, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52; iHit Cd Shop, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, 1st Coffee, Preradovićeva 12.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them?

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B zagreb.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Open Air Festivals Most of Zagreb ‘s clubs are closed in July and August since so many folks head off for the sea. However, this is made up for by a great variety of open air festivals in the city. But why not head off for the coast yourself for a day or weekend - it’s not very far, and there are loads of great events there too!

Discotheque where you can dance under the stars. There is Luxury Boutique Camping, an onsite Apartment Village.

The set up is to a tea so as you enter the garden doors, prepare to enter the Musical Garden of Eden.

Park-in-Zagreb

D-1, Priobalna cesta, Jankomir. A choice of stellar techno jocks in the same city on one night is already an evening to remember but over 60 DJs under one roof for more than 48 hours is pure concentrated goodness. Just like their heavenly counterparts, these stars illuminate goodness all around. In this case, what began as a fundraiser supporting medical therapies has become an annual tribute to good karma. Doors open at 18:00. Q Tickets 30 - 60kn.

26.06 Tuesday - 07.07 Saturday

D-1, Ribnjak Park, www.parkinzagreb.com. Love the outdoors with some fine entertainment; attend this music and entertainment festival which offers a diverse program: concerts, theatre shows, workshops, exhibitions and performances…local and foreign artists present their work in a relaxed atmosphere.

28.06 Thursday - 30.06 Saturday

INmusic Festival

G-5, Jarun Lake, www.inmusicfestival.com. Croatia’s largest outdoor music beach-side bonanza is back and bigger than ever. The seventh annual festival includes the likes of party-poppin’ Franz Ferdinand, a return of the Cranberries and a production of the mind-blowing Gorillaz Sound System. Bus transport and campsites available. Q Festival ticket 340kn. Festival and camping ticket 490kn.

04.07 Wednesday - 11.07 Wednesday

The Garden Festival

Tisno,www.thegardenfestival.eu. Where else can you dance the day and night away whilst swimming in the sea or chilling beneath a canopy? Embark on a festival like no other, world artists amalgamate here and bring their music to the people. See 2020 Soundsystem, Free School, Nicolas Jaar and at least 40 top notch world DJs. Ohh and the Argonaughty Boat Parties…or Barbarella’s

Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standingroom only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. PBX

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun.

It has two separate floors with each with a different sound.

Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin.

Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 091 474 36 41, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main zagreb.inyourpocket.com

06.07 Friday - 08.07 Sunday

Vinylstock 2012

07.08 Tuesday - 10.08 Friday

Terraneo Festival

Ex barrack Bribirskih Knezova, Šibenik, w w w. terraneofestival.com. After last year’s debut success, the Terraneo Music Festival shines once again with a three day programme. Two huge stages, an open air party zone and two indoor club venues ought to provide entertainment galore! Pitch a tent, or even get involved with the ecological programme on offer, going green is an essential key with eco workshops and organised bike rides. A shuttle bus service will run from the City of Šibenik to the festival venue. Musically, the bands vary in genre with indie, new wave, post punk, and electro pop to heavy rock. The line-up includes The XX, Friendly Fires, The Horrors, The Ting Tongs and a jolly whole lot more. Ohhh… a diverse DJ programme in various hangars and bars is the icing on a hot sunny summer day. Q Tickets 350kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. B Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. July 23 - August 23 Closed Mon, Sun. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PBX

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NIGHTLIFE Casinos Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481

Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed July - August 23. PALGW

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija. hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area.

Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www.goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

PENGB

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg

bana Josipa Jelačića. This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal Marjo-Riitta variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and Eterma people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica moun tain, i t is one of th e most b eau ti ful cemeteries in Europe.

Lime-green cupolas top the wall that Kristina Vlakić surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg

svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by ar tist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on Kristina Vlakić December 26 at 12:15.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

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WHAT TO SEE

Josip Bepo Bota, From Štros

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971.

In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified bod y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar.

The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni

muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00, hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr.

Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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WHAT TO SEE Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s

Zagreb In Your Pocket

most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace.

Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s untill 1942. when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians- a monument in Chicago.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE

The Croatian Apoxyomenos B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5.

Th e 192cm Croatian Apoxyomenos, a bronzed ancient statue depicting an athletic male figure, is temporaril y b eing exhibited at the Mimara Museum and is open to the general public. It will remain at the Mimara un til th e museum within the ‘Kvarner Palace’, on Mali Lošinj is built. Over the centuries, only eight statues of this kind have been found throughout the world and amongst them all, the Croatian Apoxymenos is considered to be the best preserved and most authentically kept statue despite the conditions it had faced over time. The statue was found in 1996 by Belgian tourist René Wouters, off the islet of Vele Orjule and at the bottom of the sea, trapped between two rocks at a depth of 45 meters. The overall undersea research with state of the art equipment and preservation measures meant that it was finally raised from the seabed in 1999.

It is presumed that it landed into the sea sometime in the 1st century AD but why? Experts denote that it was most likely a part of the cargo from a Roman ship and may have been thrown off board during a severe storm due to the danger of a shipwreck, it may have been thrown as a sacrifice to the gods for a safe end to a journey or even thrown off board in order to make the ship less heavy. Investigations covering an area of 50,000 square metres around the place of the finding found no trace of an ancient shipwreck. The conservatory work took years of desalination, demanding investigation and precise reconstruction as it was filled with sea debris and corrosive cracks. Now this magnificent cultural monument is available to the public to view as experts continue to make further studies and analyses. As they make conclusions about its style, the time period, the author, the technology of its making and cultural and historical context of its creation. Take the time to appreciate this glorious piece of art history - the depiction of a winner, the grand personification of an athlete.

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is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these s er vi c e d o es n ot cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sa t, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Marko Vrdoljak, Mimara Museum Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Tr g Franklina

Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@ mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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WHAT TO SEE 7:2 /,1(6 +23 21 +23 2)) 9,578$/ 7285,67 *8,'( ,1 (,*+7 /$1*8$*(6

([SHULHQFH =DJUHE·V DWPRVSKHUH DQG FKDUP IURP WKH WRXULVW RSHQ WRS EXVHV ZZZ ]HW KU Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1,

Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind.

City tours ZET Mini Tourist Train Another alternative way of sightseeing the city is via the Mini Tourist Train. To obtain more information, visit www.zet.hr.

ZET Open Top Tourist Bus Hop-on, hop-off round trips run from May through to September. That means you can get on or off at any route stop throughout the day. One route circles the heart of the city (12.5km long, red route, runs every 90min from 12:00 - 19:00), while the other takes you in a wider circle around the city centre (32.5km - green route, runs every 120min from 14:00 17:20). The tours depart from Bakačeva ulica, near the Cathedral at Kaptol. An audio guide in 8 languages tells you about the sights you drive past. Tickets cost 70kn for adults, 35kn for children between 7 and 18, while kids under 7 are free of charge. Buy your tickets from the driver or in the ZET office at Petrićeva 4 which is only a one minute walk from Ban Jelačić Square. Another ZET office is located at Ozaljska 105. You can download route maps from www.zet.hr - click on the link turističke linije and look for link named karta - trasa linija turističkih autobusa or pick one up from the office at Petrićeva 4.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Parks Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) B-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Closed November - April 1. Admission free.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

bb, www.zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QZoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20-30kn.

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WHAT TO SEE

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Photo Competition Be Local!

Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky!

The four competitions run during the following dates:

1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition.

An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions.

The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.

How to Enter

Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”.

Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken.

The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.

Conditions of Entry

We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for non-commercial purposes together with

the name of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list.

*Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

Photo competition Be Local!

Vlasta Štalekar, First drawing

We have chosen the winning photos in the first round of the Be Local! photo contest. These photos touched the hearts of the whole editorial team, and the photo that made us laugh the most features on this issue cover. The competition opened in April, and the theme was “I’ll be Back in Zagreb “. You can still send us your photos - see below for a reminder of the dates of the three remaining rounds. So, get involved - it’s not too late!

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June - July 2012

DISCOVER ZAGORJE

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06.07 Friday - 14.07 Saturday

Tabor Film Festival

Veliki Tabor (Desinić), Kumrovec, Zabok and Klanjec, www.taborfilmfestival.com. Summer at an outdoor festival of short films only gets sweeter by stretching it out over four lovely locations. The 10th annual event promises a newly expanded program including a children’s competition, tours, concerts and workshops.

14.07 Saturday - 15.07 Sunday

The Foots teps of Old Customs Trg pape Ivana Pavla II, Marija Bistrica, www.info-marijabistrica.hr. This weekend adds a unique twist to the Marija Bistrica pilgrimage route that has drawn visitors for more than 300 years. Festivities intend to recreate the culturally unique exhibitions, workshops and performances that travelers would have experienced through the centuries.

Agrotourism Culture & Events Special events June - August

Summer in Oršić Castle - Subtilia 2012 Oršić Castle, Gornja Stubica; Golubovec Castle, Donja Stubica, St Juraj Church, Gornja Stubica. For the seventh summer running, the treasured cultural monuments of Gornja Stubica will be filled with live musical performances. Worldclass string quartets and discotheque DJs share equal billing as bringers of summer festivity.

21.06 Thursday

Night of the Krapina Prehistoric Man Krapina Neanderthal Museum, Šetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina, www.mkn.mhz.hr. Celebrate the first day of summer in prehistoric style. Krapina’s Neanderthals, a favorite attraction to the area, will be honored with a night of music, plays and workshops. Family-friendly, educational and fun, the days of prehistoric man come to life with the people who know him best.

30.06 Saturday

Garden Party at Luje Vranyczany Vranyczany Park, Oroslavje, www.oroslavje.hr. Spend the afternoon in a by-gone era of garden party-going nobility.

Archery displays, horse-drawn carts and workshops for children are only some of the ways visitors experience the lives of this area’s historic residents.

July

11th Zagorje Triathlon Bedekovčina-Gornja Stubica, www.gornjastubica.com.

Over a course stretching more than 25 km, devotees of athletic endurance will swim, run and bike their way to glory.

Get out and enjoy a view spanning the Bedekovčanskim lakes, Poznanovec, Selnica and Gornja Stubica while showing some support for these super athletes.

02.07 Monday - 07.07 Saturday

Summer in Marija Bistrica - Woodcarver’s Colony Sculpture Park, Gornjoselska, www.info-marija-bistrica. hr. Zagorje peasants stand immortalized in moments of everyday life along the sculpture park in Gornjoselskoj Street thanks to more than 25 years of wordcarving celebreations.

The craftsmen come from all over Croatia and neighboring coutries, keeping the tradition alive and promising more natural wonders for this open air art gallery.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Grešna gorica Taborgradska 3, Desinić, tel. (+385-

49) 34 30 01, gresna@gresna-gorica.com, w w w. gresna-gorica.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Open by prior arrangement.

Kozjak Kozjak Začretski 18 a, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 88 00, krunoslav.svigir@kr.t-com.hr, www.klet-kozjak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Masnec Luka Poljanska 41, Zagorska Sela, tel. (+38549) 55 21 33, franc.masnec@kr.t-com.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Stara vodenica Gredice 32, Klanjec, tel. (+385-49) 55 05 77, vodenica@staravodenica.hr, www.staravodenica. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A Trsek Trnovec Desinićki 23, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 34 34 64, josip@trsek.hr, www.trsek.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Vinski Vrh Gornjaki 56, Hrašćina, tel. (+385-49) 45 82 87, bolfan@bolfanvinskivrh.hr, www.bolfanvinskivrh.hr.

QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. A Vuglec Breg Škarićevo 151, Krapina, tel. (+385-49) 34 50 15, info@vuglec-breg.hr, www.vuglec-breg.hr.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A

Wine Tasting History books reveal that the tradition of wine in the Krapinsko-zagorska region dates back to the Late Antique period. Travelling Roman soldiers had set up a military post at the Vinski Vrh (The Wine Peak), where even today excellent wines are produced. There, the Romans would indulge in wine and through the course of the evening were supposedly entertained by elves that would chant and provide encouragement for up and coming battles. When the soldiers would fall asleep, the elves would hide their weapons to prevent the soldiers from any further warfare. And so generations have passed …To this present day, wine makers can still hear the singing of the banshee coming from their wine cellars whose melodies blend with the aromas of wine.

Broz Žarko Ulica Lijepe naše 24, Klanjec, tel. (+38549) 55 01 69, kontakt@podrum-obitelji-broz.com, www. podrum-obitelji-broz.com. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Drenški Boris Rusnica 64, Hum na Sutli, tel. (+38549) 34 04 66, bodren@kr.t-com.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Grozaj Vineyard Donja Pačetina, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 74 47, josip-gigi6@net.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Hajduk Vineyard Gaber 38, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 34 35 17, hajduk11@vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Open by prior arrangement

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DISCOVER ZAGORJE

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April - May 2012

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DISCOVER ZAGORJE Kapljica Wine Cellar Trg hrvatske kraljice Jelene 2, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 68 84. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Pišković Stjepan A. Gredičaka 13, Oroslavlje, tel. (+385-) 098 25 14 53. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Sever Zvonko Kumrovečka 4, Klanjec, tel. (+385-) 098 31 51 82, fax (+385-49) 50 21 47. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Zdolc Robert Klenice 17, Pregrada, tel. (+385-49) 37 65 81, robert.zdolc@zg.t-com.hr, www.vina-zdolc.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

What to see

Museums Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) Šetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina,

tel. (+385-49) 37 14 91, mkn@mhz.hr, www.mkn. mhz.hr. The new Neanderthal Museum in Krapina opened in February 2010 and is a brilliant day out. Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience.

It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. This is the most numerous and most varied collection of such fossils in the world. The remains of dozens of people were found, together with those of animals such as the cave bear, wolf and rhinoceros as well as Palaeolithic stone implements. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. It is not only the direct connection with the original find that brings you so close to deep prehistory: sculptures of Neanderthal families are so realistic that visitors have an eerie sense that they are about to move at any moment.

You’re propelled back in time by sounds and smells recreating the world of Neanderthal man. You can touch the sculptures and learn about their emotions, rituals and entertainment. In short, this is about as close to Neanderthal man as you can possibly get, and is a real eye-opener, revealing how close to our own kind the Neanderthals truly were. QOpen 09:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 50kn.

a large region, thus the feudal armies reacted with brutal speed. Gubec and his men lost the last peasant stronghold, Stubičke Toplice, in a bloody battle. Gubec was taken to St Mark’s square in Zagreb where he was publicly executed in a most gruesome manner.

As well as telling the story of this folk hero, the Museum’s collection includes displays on the historical development of the region and on the life of the nobility. A baroque chapel in the grounds houses the Permanent Exhibition of Sacral Art in Zagorje. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 10-20kn.

Veliki Tabor Castle (Dvor Veliki Tabor) Košnički Hum 1, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 37 49 70, www.velikitabor. com. Veliki Tabor is one of the best preserved late medieval and renaissance fortified settlements in inland Croatia, and is a mighty construction indeed, dominating a hilltop and visible for miles around. It was built by the aristocratic Rattkay family in the 16th century, and remained in their hands until 1793. The oldest part of the complex is the late gothic palace which was their residence. The palace is surrounded by four semi-circular renaissance towers, and this complex was encircled by a defensive wall with a bastion. Extensive restoration works are currently taking place at the Veliki Tabor castle so it is closed to visitors. However, the castle is impressive even from outside, and the views from its hilltop are fabulous. Please check www.mhz.hr for information on opening (Croatian language only). Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Religious Sights The Shrine of the Mother of God of Bistrica (Hrvatsko nacionalno svetište Majke Božje Bistričke) Trg pape Ivana Pavla II. 32, Marija Bistrica,

www.svetiste-mbb.hr. The Shrine of the Mother of God of Bistrica is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Croatia. It’s set in the idyllic little town of Marija Bistrica amid the rolling hills of Zagorje, around 40km from Zagreb.

The pilgrimages traditionally take place on about 50 dates from the first Sunday following Easter until the end of October, bringing more than one million visitors per year to the town.

The site became revered thanks to a miraculous black wooden statue of the Madonna and Child. This is now kept in Marija Bistrica’s magnificent church, although it started out life at the end of the 15th century in a chapel on a nearby hill called Vinski Vrh. Due to the threat of invading armies, this statue was hidden on several occasions, and sometimes it was forgotten. In 1684 it revealed its presence by emitting a curious light. Marija Bistrica became a place of pilgrimage in 1715.

Pope John Paul II visited Marija Bistrica on 3 October 1998.

A list of dates of pilgrimages is published (in Croatian only) on www.svetiste-mbb.hr.

The Peasants’ Revolt Museum (Muzej seljačkih

buna) Samci 63, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 58 78 80, msb@mhz.hr, www.mhz.hr. This museum is dedicated to one of the best-loved figures in Croatian history, local peasant hero Matija Gubec. 16th century central Europe was characterised by peasant uprisings due to poor living conditions and ill-treatment by feudal landowners. After years of suffering at the hands of notorious blueblood Franjo Tahy, in 1573 Gubec led a plot to overthrow the government and set up a peasants’ state. The revolt threatened to destabilise Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

DISCOVER MAIL &ZAGORJE PHONES Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

Post Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL I-6, Utinjska 40, Sveta Klara, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, info.hr@rheagrupa.com, www.rhea.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Global Express outskirts, Stupničke Šipkovine 3, Donji Stupnik, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express. hr, www.global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Hpekspres D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. N UPS F-6, Zastavnice 38a, Hrvatski Leskovac, tel. (+385-1) 460 70 00/(+385-1) 345 45 55, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482

89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N CityEx K-4, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-1) 0800 303 333, info@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express Jelkovečka 5, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

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Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455 84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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GETTING AROUND Public transport

Taxi

Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30 and as the summer period often brings upon extra demand, buses will ride on all tram lines until September 2. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr/tramvaj/dnevni.aspx. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn.

Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience.

Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr.Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8,80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9,90kn flat fee plus 4,90 kn/km.

These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo , tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer.

These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet.

Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance. being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day.

For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz. hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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GETTING AROUND Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

ZET Value Cards If you are looking at value for money then you simply cannot go passed the ZET Value Card. This gem of a pocket sized card works via a top-up system, as soon as you add money to you card it is ready for use, a minimum amount of 10kn is needed to activate the card and the maximum amount peaks at 1000kn. An added bonus is that by using this card a travel ride costs a mere 10kn, and that is the best price in town. The ZET value card can be used across all zones and lines and as an added bonus, it is transferable to other users. Where can you get your hands on this ZET Value Card? It can be purchased at all ZET shops and partner kiosks (iNovine and Tisak). By purchasing at these places you can choose the amount you wish to credit your card with. So what happens once you have entered a ZET bus or train? Be kind to the elderly passengers and offer a seat of course, but before that be sure to place your card onto the ticket machine and the amount of money will automatically be deducted at the relevant transport rate for one zone and one person. To make matters all the more easier, the option for English is available before the entire process begins. To start with, simply choose the zone and the number of passengers you wish to pay for, then place the value card onto the machine and once the transaction has been completed, the text ekarta uspješno kupljena will appear, as well as the full purchase amount and the expiry time. Now you are right at home! This procedure is the same for all zones. The entire city of Zagreb is in the first zone (includes all tram lines and the funicular) but if you use the bus ask the driver for how many zones you have to pay for transportation. If you wish to purchase a daily ticket (40kn), then choose the dnevna karta option and repeat the above procedure. Once you receive your ekarta uspješno kupljena, 40kn, you’re done. And how can you find out your balance? Place your value card onto the machine and choose the option ‘i’. So we wish you a safe and enjoyable ride on your ZET journeys!

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Car rental

Marjo-Riitta Eterma

Avis & Budget D-3, Kneza Borne 2/(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33,

zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66.QOpen 07:00 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00.QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+3851) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

June - July 2012

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SHOPPING

CharlieDesign, Breathless The heart of Zagreb has a smorgasbord of famous world and Croatian designer clothes. Simply doddle off to Gundilićeva and Frankopanska Streets (B-2/3) and you’ll find labels such as Max Mara, Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel… When you’re in the vicinity of the main square, head down to Varšavska street (B-2) for Kenzo. Those who prefer shopping centres there is Kaptol Centar, Importanne Galleria and the new Centar Cvjetni.

A day out in town cannot go without a sneak preview or taste of some local delicacies and a visit to a gift or antique store which can be found on our listings. In addition, if you pop outside of the city centre, Avenue Mall (I-5) is a great shopping destination with all sorts of goodies and entertainment, simply catch tram number 6. Other shopping centres are in Jankomir, Lanište and Sesvete.

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr.QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-

1) 659 10 50, off ice@avenuemall.com.hr, w w w. avenuemall.com.hr.Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q

December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. City Center One East L-4, Slavonska avenija (Žitnjak), info@citycenterone.com, w w w.citycenterone.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

City Centre One West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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SHOPPING West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-

1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+3851) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.tcom.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr.

Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49.

Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 54/(+385-) 091 793 06 32, andrea.rozic@zg.tcom.hr. Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art galleries BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/(+385-) 098 178 04 02, inf o@bpatelier.com, www.bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@ zg.t-com.hr, w w w.galerijadeci.hr.

Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr.

Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana

Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+3851) 481 69 54, galerijamala@ galerijamala.hr, w w w. galerijamala.hr. A variet y of pictures and sculptures.

Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com.

The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Bookshops Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55,

www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Brala C-4, Mihanovićeva 32, tel. (+385-1) 485 66 87, antikvarijat-brala@hi.t-com.hr. English books are sold here.

Also at Dežmanova 3, Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Jesenski i Turk C-2, Preradovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 34 58, antikvarijat@jesenski-turk.hr, www.jesenskiturk.hr. Books in a variety of languages. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25, pomoc@profil.hr, www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts.

Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizarazagreb@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture.

Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, C-1 Kaptol Centre, Nova ves 17, C-2 Cvjetni, Cvjetni trg. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+385-

1) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Širok C-2, Bakačeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 52. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Teslina 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Second Hand Heaven Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05.

Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn.

Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www. freebird.hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kuna. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kuna. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn.

The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about Photo: Želimir Beštak renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn.

Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.

Art Shops G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. As it is Christmas, the hours have been extended from 10:00 - 16:00.

Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, w w w. prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode C-2, Tkalčićeva 61.

An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen Apiteka C-2, Prolaz Sestara Baković 1, tel. (+3851) 487 27 55, info@radovanpetrovic.com, w w w. medpetrovic.com. A large hodgepodge of honey products used for both medical and cooking purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@bakinakuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A June - July 2012

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SHOPPING

A Shoo, Swarovski Summer sandals

Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre

Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A Chai - svijet čaja Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-1) 387 91 35, kontakt@svijetcaja.com, www. svijetcaja.com. The best quality teas from all over the world, utensils for making and serving tea, Belgian pralines, chocolate and other sweets. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. (+385-1) 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja. hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A-2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Kandit D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit.hr. Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Also at E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 32 91, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 20:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Natural Cosmetics Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products?

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A L´Occitane I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16 (Avenue Mall), tel. (+385-1) 652 64 49, www.hr.loccitane.com. Complete nourishment for the entire body coming directly from the fields of Provance in France. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Lush C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 49, lush@ lush.hr, www.lush.hr. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes from England to make you smell fruity and fresh.

You’ll smell the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Izvorno.hr

Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, w w w. izvorno.hr. If you wa n t a u t h e n t i c Croatian products then come hence for th and choose from th eir grea t

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

LEISURE Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. A

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

info@fitness-forma.com, www.fitness-forma.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, w w w. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel. (+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+3851) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.

Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this.

Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

Interview Hot Yoga ZIYP: Wh a t is h ot yoga?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): Hot yoga is hatha yoga, a more static st yle of performing asanas (yoga positions) in a h eated room at 37 degrees Celsius and 40-50% humidity.

ZIYP: Why heat?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): When you are doing yoga in warm conditions you naturally sweat a lot, which helps you to detoxify, to get rid of the toxins all the way to the cell level, even the pesticides get out. Apart from that the body is much more flexible and there are no injuries.

ZIYP: What does the hot yoga class look like?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): Classes are intensive and they last 75 or 90 minutes. By performing a series of asanas you develop strength, stamina, flexibility and balance, as well as peace of mind. Although the class is demanding it is suitable for everyone from total beginners to athletes and advanced yogis, men and women. Everyone does only as much as he or she can and everybody has the same benefits as long as he or she does even part of the asana correctly. Classes are small (5 to 10 people), and every class is different.

ZIYP: More benefits of hot yoga?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): Hot yoga improves physical well being: it increases muscular strength, endurance and flexibility; it improves glandular function and thus helps with hormonal balance. It improves the circulation of blood and lymph, corrects bad posture and helps with back pain.

It helps combat insomnia and stress. It helps the energy in your body circulate properly and keeps you young.

ZIYP: How to get used to the heat?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): Although 37 degrees Celsius sounds like a very high temperature, you will sweat a lot and in that way your body cools itself down, so you won’t perceive the temperature as very hot. You get used to the heat after two or three classes.

ZIYP: About the hot yoga centre Hot Yoga (Vjerna): The hot yoga centre is located in Radićeva 3 in a historical building which belonged to ban Josip Jelačić. It opened in summer 2010. The atmosphere in the centre is very friendly: almost everybody knows everybody, after classes we drink tea and talk. We approach yoga from the physical perspective of practising asanas but we’re very conscious of the benefits that yoga has on our whole being.

ZIYP: About you?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): I graduated from the Faculty of Kinesiology at the University of Zagreb and I gained an MBA in Prague. I lived for 7 years in the USA (Chicago, Dallas and Phoenix) where I worked as a personal trainer and yoga instructor. Then I moved to Prague where I opened the first hot yoga centre. In 2006 I moved back to Zagreb. I have been practising yoga for 22 years. I have three sons.

ZIYP: Favourite places to relax?

Hot Yoga (Vjerna): Maksimir Park. For shopping: Nebo and Noa Noa. For coffee: the café in the Profil bookshop.

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A

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LEISURE Carting

Flying the Flag

Carting Arena I-5, Zagreb fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, Pavilion 35, tel. (+385 -1) 549 44 80, reservation@karting-arena.com, www.karting-arena.com.

The countdown begins with the biggest indoor carting event in Croatia. World carting champion Paolo Gagliardini will ensure top speed entertainment with a 480 meter long race track. You too can join in with gear and carts provided. Pavilion 35 will be smokin.

Croatia is sending two torch bearers to th e Ol ympic Games this summer: Kristina Pilko Demirkiran, a b oxin g an d kickboxing referee from Rijeka , and Za greb ‘s Zla tko Glavanović Glavir, a record-breaking arch er wh o h a s dedicated most of his life to teaching spor t to children.

Being invited to be a torch bearer is an incredible honour and in the case of these two people it’s a recognition of years of dedication and community spirit.

31-year-old Kristina was nominated due to her tireless work assisting local charities such as the women’s shelter and orphanage. She teaches sport to underprivileged children for free, and is acutely aware of the importance of encouraging kids to engage in sport.

Zlatko is 78 years old, and we’ll tell you a little bit more about him since he’s a Zagreb chap and all. He has a long career teaching physical education in Zagreb schools, and has been active in archery for over 40 years – longer than anyone else in the country.

During his sporting career, he has been Croatian, Yugoslav and European champion, winning the latter title at the tender age of 63. His current ambition is to break some of the numerous records he set in years gone by. He has been active in founding and leading archery clubs on the local and national level, and has been actively involved in the scouting movement since 1951. In Summer 2011 he took part in a two-week camp with his group in the Velebit Mountains . You’ll find Zlatko hiking the length, breadth and heights of the country.

And if that’s not enough, he is proficient in several martial arts and has a red belt in tae-kwon-do.

It’s just as well Zlatko enjoys the active life: his duties for the 2012 Olympics include undertaking an 8,000mile tour of the United Kingdom, visiting over 1,000 cities, towns and villages to build up the excitement of the Olympic Games. Everywhere they travel, the 4,000 torchbearers will take part in celebrations spreading a message of peace, unity and friendship.

Zlatko, you are a star!

City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel.

(+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh.hr, www.sljeme.com. Swimming pool, sauna, gym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and body treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A

Yoga Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr. Q Open Mon 17:30 - 18:45, Tue 09:15 - 10:30, 19:00 - 20:15, Wed 17:30 - 18:45, Thu 17:30 - 18:45, 20:00 - 21:15, Fri 09:15 - 10:30, 19:00 - 20:15, Sat 11:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Bodyelement Yoga and Pilates Studio H-3, Tratinska 49, tel. (+385-) 091 526 35 92/(+385-1) 301 59 70, info@bodyelement.hr, www.bodyelement.hr. Q 200 600kn/month.

Divya Yoga Studio D-3, Kralja Držislava 14/II, tel. (+385-) 098 61 49 57, divya@yogazagreb.com, www. yogazagreb.com. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 21:30.

Sangha Yoga studio B-3, Gundulićeva 34, tel. (+385-) 091 780 65 73, www.sanghayoga.hr. Q 230 - 400kn/ month.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

EURO LEISURE 2012 GROUP A

GROUP B

8 June, 18:00

WARSAW

Poland

Greece

8 June, 20:45

Czech Republic

12 June, 18:00

WROCLAW

Greece

Czech Republic

12 June, 20:45

WARSAW

Poland

Russia

16 June, 20:45

Russia

16 June, 20:45

Poland

GDANSK

Croatia

Spain

Ireland

14 June, 20:45 18 June, 20:45

GDANSK

18 June, 20:45

POZNAN

22 June, 20:45

B ____________ (WINNER GRP B)

23 June, 20:45

C ___________

(WINNER GRP C)

(WINNER GRP D)

KYIV

France

19 June, 20:45

DONETSK

Ukraine

SEMI-FINALS WARSAW

_____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP B)

GDANSK

_____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP A)

27 June, 20:45

I. ____________ (WINNER QF A)

DONETSK

_____________ (WINNER QF C)

28 June, 20:45

II. ____________ (WINNER QF B)

WARSAW

_____________ (WINNER QF D)

DONETSK

_____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP D)

24 June, 20:45

D ___________

KYIV

England

19 June, 20:45

England

QUARTER FINALS

DONETSK

France

15 June, 20:45

Sweden

Ireland

KYIV

Sweden

15 June, 18:00

Sweden

Spain

DONETSK

England

11 June, 20:45

Ukraine GDANSK

(WINNER GRP A)

LVIV

Germany

11 June, 18:00

Ukraine POZNAN

Italy

A ____________

KHARKIV

Netherlands

17 June, 20:45

Croatia

14 June, 18:00

21 June, 20:45

KHARKIV

Germany

17 June, 20:45

France POZNAN

Italy

LVIV

Portugal

13 June, 20:45

Italy

10 June, 20:45

Croatia

Denmark

GROUP D

10 June, 18:00

Ireland

LVIV

Portugal

13 June, 18:00

Denmark

GROUP C Spain

Germany

Portugal WROCLAW

Czech Republic

KHARKIV

Denmark

9 June, 20:45

Netherlands WARSAW

Greece

9 June, 18:00

Netherlands WROCLAW

Russia

57

KYIV

_____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP C)

FINAL 1 July, 20:45

_____________ (WINNER SF I.)

KYIV

______________ (WINNER SF II.)

Where to watch You have just arrived to Zagreb and are eager to follow the European Football Championships, but don’t know where.

Fear not, for almost every café in the heart of town will screen the games. Not to mention the Football Bar being set up at Ban Jelačić Square that is over 1000m2 in area and Jarun Lake (the Big Lake Beach). So take your pick dear readers and get into the spirit of the world game.

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Dry cleaners & Laundries

Veterinary clinics

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

Klinike Veterinarskog fakulteta K-3, Heinzelova 55, tel. (+385-1) 239 01 11.Q Open 24hrs.

Veterinarsko-higijenski servis K-3, Stara Peščenica

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+3851) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@ berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

1 69, tel. (+385-1) 244 13 63. The place for your pooch to get a good night`s sleep.QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova 68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs.

Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.

Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.

Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.

Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.

Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

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Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story… Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies.

Living now in his sixth countr y, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie

Zagreb In Your Pocket

nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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LIFESTYLEDIRECTORY DIRECTORY LIFESTYLE Zagreb for children Boćarski dom playground (Boćarski dom) I-4, Prisavlje 2. If the never-ending line of playground equipment weren’t enough to get your juices flowing, the halfpipe at the river’s edge will make you wish you packed your skateboard.

From Trg bana Josipa Jelačića take N°17 west (Prečko) or 14 (Zapruđe) and get off at the Prisavlje stop. From there cross the street and walk a few hundred metres east on Prisavlje ulica. The playground is on your right.

Bundek playground (Bundek) J-4. Parks and lakes are an excellent time to relax in summer. Ride a bike, go for a walk, rollerblade, play Frisbee, cook a barbecue, or simply hanging out with friends…No matter what you prefer, this is a park for small and big children alike and everyone can find something for themselves. The kid’s swings are a winner!

City Zoo (Zoološki vr t grada Zagreba) K-2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, tel. (+385-1) 230 21 99, zoo. zagreb@zg.t-com.hr, www.zgzoo.com. You’ll be amazed by the number of critters in this zoo, a crew that’s pretty happy because Mr.Director is doing a great job perfecting their home. A perfect couple hour stroll finds you communing with buffalo, vultures, penguins, monkeys and much more.

The zoo is easily accessible using either tram Nº11 or 12 from Trg bana Jelačića going east to Bukovačka. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00.

Horizons Kindergarten I-2, Zelengaj 6, tel. (+385-1) 457 82 05, milena@kindergarten.hr, www.kindergarten. hr. With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excellent aducational programme with creative workshops, arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc. - we can definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven. Opening a second location in Samobor Gardens next autumn.

Mario Radaković

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

92 93 94 9155

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June - July 2012

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel.

4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,

Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank.

Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mario Radaković

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

BUSINESSDIRECTORY DIRECTORY BUSINESS Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-proper ty.com, w w w.zagreb-proper ty.com.

Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every ‘property’ need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www.joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2012

61

62

STREET REGISTER

Mario Radaković 29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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