Zagreb In Your Pocket No67

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB August-September 2012

20

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

Kava Culture

Caffeine is style in Zagreb

Lacemaking

One way to weave to your heart

Discover Zagorje N°67 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Majestic hills, food specialties, wines, cultural events….

Contents

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

6

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

7

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

8

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

10

Interesting and boring stuff included

Lacemaking in Croatia

18

Lepoglava, Pag and Hvar lace

Where to stay

19

A place to rest your weary head

The power, the glitter and the element of surprise, this is what you can expect at the momentous World Theatre Festival. See page 13.

What to see

31

All those things you mustn’t miss

Dining & Nightlife

23 Discover Zagorje 38 Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome It‘s our little Tuscany...

Kava Culture 27 Everything you‘ve always wanted to know about Mail & Phones coffee Smoke signals and carrier pigeons 41 Nightlife 29 Getting around 42 When you just gotta boogie Save on shoe leather

Shopping 44 Helping you get rid of that extra cash Leisure Massage or Yoga

48

Directory

51

Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

52

Maps & Index Street index City map City centre map Transport map Country map

54 55 56 58 59

Is fresh! Is good! That’s what Zagreb’s major market in Dolac was, and still is.... See page 36.

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August - September 2012

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Foreword Once upon a time, when a fatherly eye was kept on the good citizens in this part of the world, working days were short, activities were limited to the bare minimum (e.g. breathing) and summer holidays were looooong. During the summer months, Zagreb became a city of ghosts creeping along slim strips of shade on the asphalt, with little to do pass the time.

Then along came capitalism and people started to realise their time was for sale. Sadly, slowly, endless sojourns in the sun are becoming a thing of the past. But another new thing happened: tourists arrived in Zagreb. What a novelty! The truth is, despite Zagreb’s charm, there used to be very few holidaymakers here. So what did the kind people of Zagreb do? Put on a range of festivals and events to keep us all out of mischief until the social and cultural calendar kicks off again in autumn. This year, you’ll find the summer cultural programme better than ever before: the PIF International Puppet Festival, Summer on Stross, Amadeo Summer Scene... Read all about it on our Culture&Events pages or feel free to take stock of our indispensable mini-guide to Zagreb’s infamous kava culture. If you have not yet been bowled over by the sheer, and seemingly endless, number of cafés, brace yourself for a scene guaranteed to jumpstart your nervous system – for infinite more reasons than just the coffee. Everything you’ve always wanted to know about coffee – the where, what, how and why, awaits you on page 27. And if that’s not enough, grab a copy of the new Summer issue of Rijeka, Zadar, Split, Šibenik or Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, and head for the highway.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

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Editorial

Copyright notice

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Marko Sirovina Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Urska Bpljkovac, PIF- international Puppet Theatre Festival

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings!

Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. fivestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres.

We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD I www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

6

Arriving in zagreb Tourist information

i

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/ person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Arriving in zagreb Basics Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis­tance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Eu­ro­pean Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

75

10

50

0

25

-10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,33kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,62kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,63 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,38 €1,28 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 27. 07 2012): US$1 = 5,9kn €1 =7,4kn £1 = 9,4kn

0

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a trans­former to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly mono­tone in re­li­gious terms. Having al­ ways ex­isted on the frontiers of three religions; Catho­lic, Orthodox and Mus­lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the popu­lation has be­ come over­whelmingly Catho­lic with the 2001 Cen­sus re­cording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic.

These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel.

456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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August - September 2012

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HISTORY

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led

by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

ZGH Archives 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected.

2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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HISTORY

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Culture & Events

The World Theatre Festival, Fabre Prometheus

Rock & Pop Concerts 27.08 Monday

Memoryhouse feat. Lady Friends and Flowers B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3. The multimedia showmanship of dream pop Canadian duo Memoryhouse creates a futuristic nostalgia on the classic Kino stage.

Teaming up with local indie pop trio Lady Friends, a band devoted to exploring relationships as only music can, the evening portends musical transcendence. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 60 - 75kn.

29.08 Wednesday

Red Hot Chili Peppers

I-4, Hippodrome, Radoslava Cimermanova 5. The chart topping rock-n-roll hall of famers are on the biggest tour of their 30-year career for their tenth studio album I’m with You. The first tour to include guitarist Josh Klinghoffer, the foursome has already rocked Around the World in Can’t Stop style with new favorites like Look Around and Dani California.

With the only open-air performance in the region, Zagreb is sure to draw plenty of RHCP faithfuls so get tickets early to join the jam. Music passion obligatory, tube socks optional.

Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 350 - 550kn available at www.eventim.hr.

11.09 Tuesday

Marduk feat. Immolation

J-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. With metal music so crunchy you can grind an ax on it, the performances by this international assemblage promise to leave fans thoroughly rocked. The concert marks one stop on a three month European tour leaving a torrent of metal mania in its wake. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120 - 140kn.

14.09 Friday

The Dubliners

E-3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. This groundbreaking folk ensemble has paved the way for Irish and Scottish musicians onto the international music scene. During their 50th Anniversary tour, the talent of this historic band makes their Zagreb performance a must-see event. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 180 - 200kn.

30.08 Thursday

The Mistaken Sons of Alabama

J-3, Hard Place, Šubićeva 55/1, www.hardplace.hr. Get down and dirty with American rock served up Southern style.

Denim coveralls optional, party spirit mandatory. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

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PIF- International Puppet Theatre Festival, Wind

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Culture & Events 18.09 Tuesday

Minus Tree & Wise Up

A-3, AKC Medika (Attack Club), Pierrotijeva 11. The ambient punk sounds of Southern Italy’s Minus Tree is created by new combinations of experienced and experimental performers. Portugal’s Wise Up promotes straight edge, vegetarian living while pumping out old school hardcore kicks.

The combo creates a shake rattle and roll mix to rock your socks off. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

19.09 Wednesday

Vreid, Einherjer & Mistur

J-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. This triple-threat of Norwegian metal favorites promises an unforgettable night on their Zagreb leg of the Fire Walk with Me tour. Viking and Norse legends permeate many of the lyrics of tunes that will keep any metal fan singing their praises. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

Summer cinemas 15.07 Sunday - 31.08 Friday

The Tuškanac Summer Cinema

B-1, Dubravkin put. Located in Dubravkin put, it’s a favourite summer spot for fans of music, theatre and film.

31.07 Tuesday - 04.09 Tuesday

The Gradec Summer Cinema

C-1, Katarinin trg, www.ljetnokinogradec.com.

Missing out on this ever more popular summer cinema is almost criminal. The open-air venue gives Zagreb-ites another appealing August time option in addition to the sea, and a deeply artistic one at that! And don’t forget: watching a great movie can sometimes lead to places further than the largest oceans. Q Shows start at 21:00.

Admision free.

Classical Music Concerts 17.09 Monday

Il Divo & Orchestra - Wicked Game Tour

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Evolving from the moment Simon Cowell first made their historic assemblage, the original classical crossover quartet has broken boundaries, records, and more than a few hearts with their enchanting sound. The tour showcases the group’s seventh full-length album, their most magnifico to-date. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 200 - 900kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Exhibitions 01.12.2011 Thursday - 30.09.2012 Sunday

The Homeland War

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

28.02 Tuesday - 19.08 Sunday

Liturgical Clothing from the Museum of Arts and Crafts collection

B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. The most valuable samples of liturgical clothing and items presenting textile motifs from continental Croatia will be displayed. The oldest embroideries date from the 13th century and of great value is the Renaissance chasuble decorated with golden needle work. The Baroque group of liturgical clothing is most presented (17th and 18th century).

14.05 Monday - 31.08 Friday

Dubrava Zagreb - from the suburb to the city

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. As it passed from rough hewn, unpaved suburbia into city subdivision proper, take a pictorial tour through the development of the Dubrava district. This unique perspective incorporates the cultural and economic influences on the area’s past 80 years to depict Zagreb’s growth from countryside to capital city.

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Red Hot Chili Peppers

02.06 Saturday - 02.09 Sunday

Roman Dodecahedron

C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. This twelve-faced bronze bit of the Roman era remains mysterious in its function and fascinating in its form. Having survived parts of a long past that included use as both a children’s toy and Christmas tree stand, the rare feat of craftsmanship will now take its rightful place on display amongst the city’s archeological treasures.

20.06 Wednesday - 30.09 Sunday

Fragments of Timelessness - Ivana Puljić

J-5, Zagreb Tax Administration, Avenija Dubrovnik 32.

The unchanging and the eternal play together paradoxically in the light-hearted yet substantive works of Puljić. The Split native weaves Croatian landscapes and hues into poetic representations of daily life. Adding a dimension of antilogy, these works infused with serene joviality are displayed inside a state tax office.

August - September 2012

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12

Culture & Events 14.07 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday

One of Zagreb’s Stories

C-2, Forum Gallery, Nikole Tesle 16, w w w.kic.hr.

Commemorating the anniversary of its first exhibition more than 40 years ago, the Gallery’s multimedia display retells the tale of Zagreb through the works of its artists. Comparisons between the artist-run collectives of socialism and modern management of the arts create a unifying theme throughout the selections. Viewers are invited to explore the position of art in society and institutions in the arts.

17.07 Tuesday - 02.09 Sunday

Duba Sambolec

J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. The donated 15 piece collection of Dube Sambolec’s sculputres, installations and multimedia displays promises to enrish the museum’s permanent exhibits. Her studies on the use of space and dichotomous principles have garnered the artist international aclaim and further enhance the antipation to experience the artistic impact of life in their new display space.

19.07 Thursday - 02.09 Sunday

Architect Viktor Kovačić - Photos

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. See Zagreb through the eyes of the nation’s greatest architects who also had a sharp knack for the camera.

Kovačić places an emphasis on people in nature, portraits, friends, and architecture of course. He captures Zagreb at the beginning of the 20th century and gives us a wonderful comparison of the then and now.

11.09 Tuesday - 15.10 Monday

Police Yard - Željko Kipke The World Theatre Festival, Othello Stern

26.06 Tuesday - 02.09 Sunday

Colapis Fluminis Thesaurus - Treasure of the Kupa River

C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Until the 20th century, dredging the Kupa river was intended as a means of maintaining the Sisak waterways. This process revealed the area to be an ethnographic goldmine for prehistoric, Roman and medieval items. The centennial celebration marking 1912 as the year of the most impressive finds includes more than 9000 artifacts in the collection’s wealth of historical treasures.

27.06 Wednesday - 01.09 Saturday

Friends - Petra Slobodnjak

C-2, Photo Gallery KIC, Preradovićeva 5, www.kic.hr.

Black and white prints of female nudes in everyday acts of cooking, studying and family time hold a wealth of intrigue all their own. Add to this that the subjects are each friends of the photographer and a profound sense of intimacy arises.

Explore the unraveling of daily rituals and friendship through the lens of physical exposure.

05.07 Thursday - 26.08 Sunday

Roman cemeteries of the Severan period

C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Small items and reconstructed maps tell a grand story of the daily life lived in the modern-day Osijek region more than 1800 years ago. Eighty-nine items retrieved from 77 Roman graves will be displayed in an attempt to promote preservation of the Mursa area and its yet unknown quantity of treasured artifacts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

C-3, Ar t Pavillion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, w w w. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. The exhibi t comprises earl y experimental film projects, 20 paintings, and 60 prints all of which explore barriers to privacy and expression. Institutions and individuals are all included amongst the landscapes of discussion on repressive societies.

Special events 24.07 Tuesday - 10.08 Friday

Pula and Motovun in Zagreb

Tuškanac Summer Movie Theatre, Dubravkin put; Art cinema Metropolis, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Grič, Jurišićeva 6; KIC Art, Petra Preradovića 5. Pula and Motovun in Zagreb bring films from the Motovun and Pula Film Festival, marking the summery of the festival’s main programme. Q Tickets for all screenings at the price of 25 kuna can be purchased at the Movieplex cinema.

Concerto in Cro 07.07 Saturday - 25.08 Sunday Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4; Komedija Theatre, Kaptol 9 and other locations around the city centre, www.concertoincro.com.

Sunday: 15.07 Tuesday: 24.07 Saturday: 07.07, 28.07, 04.08, 11.08, 18.08, 25.08 This concert series feature the best of Croatian music creation through the past three centuries against a backdrop of lovely locales around the city center. Intended to entertain as well as educate, this richly cultural music experience is a showcase of Croatia’s top classical musicians and their artistry.

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Culture & Events

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ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS AND CLASSICAL

Opening Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Thursday 10.00 - 19.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Opening Hours from 1 July to 30 September: Tuesday - Friday 10.00 - 19.00 Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Rooseveltov trg 5 10000 Zagreb Croatia Telephone+ 385 (0)1 48 28 100 • Fax + 385 (0)1 48 26 078 • E-mail: mimara@mimara.hr Audio Visual Guide on your smart phone and WiFi –Free

• IVORY • GLASS • PORCELAIN • FURNITURE

EUROPEAN ART: OLD MASTERS PAINTINGS • SCULPTURE • METALWORKS

ANTIQUITY • ORIENTAL RUGS • CHINESE AND OTHER FAR-EASTERN ART

23.08 Thursday - 26.08 Sunday

Mark’s Fair

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Originating back to the year 1256, Mark’s fair continues to this day. Venture down to Jelačić Square and see performers and performances that reminisce the good old days of Zagreb. Relieve the old trades, customs, music and crafts in a grand carnival atmosphere.

04.09 Tuesday - 09.09 Sunday

PIF - 45th International Puppet Theatre Festival

International Culture Centre - MCUK, Travno Scene Božidara Magovca 17; Komedija City Theatre, Kaptol 9; Zagreb Puppet Theatre, Ulica baruna Trenka 3; The Gallery of the International Culture Centre, Ulica baruna Trenka 1, tel. (+385-1) 660 16 26, pif@mcuk.hr, www. pif.hr. Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb’s streets, squares and theatres between September 4 - September 9.

The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!)

Performers from all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s plays.

Jelena Rozga and a Magic Beer Room, there’s no shortage of entertainment. Over 100 performers dazzle the audience during eleven days of unforgettable festivities

14.09 Friday - 29.09 Saturday

The World Theatre festival

Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15; Zagreb Youth Theatre, Nikole Tesle 7; Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 45 61. Jot this into the social calendar as this festival has proven to be a cultural event not to be missed in Zagreb.

It is a project which assists in the integration of Croatian theatre into European culture. Some of the best of world theatre are coming as the 10th season will host: Theatre de Gennevilliers (France), Schaubuhne am Lehniner Platz (Germany) and others.

13.09 Thursday - 23.09 Sunday

Rujanfest

J-4, Bundek, www.rujanfest.com. Drawing a crowd nearly the size of Zagreb itself, this extravaganza of local music and cuisine is an annual favorite for good reason. With the likes of

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Dubrava Zagreb - from the suburb to the city, Zagreb City Museum

August - September 2012

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Culture & Events

18.09 Tuesday - 23.09 Sunday

28.09 Friday - 29.09 Saturday

New Ganz New Festival

Glory Dayz Festival

B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.sczg. unizg.hr. The work of new and innovati ve ar tists is showcased at the Ganz for both public and professional appreciation. Poets, musicians, dancers, dramatists and animators are among the local artists whose dazzling works herald a promising future and a spectacular festival performance.

25.09 Tuesday - 30.09 Sunday

International Experimental Film and Video Festival B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska 25, 25fps.hr. Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second.

It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.

I-5, Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15. Fourteen artists are set to infuse the soul with rhythmic beats from every genre creating a musical experience so massive, its bound to create a life-changing two days. Legendary Joy Division founder Peter Hook will appear alongside the up-and-coming Kitty, Daisy & Lewis; the futuristic electropop Nipplepeople and Texas native Josh T. Pearson. Regional rockstars will include Svadbas, Intruder, and Darkwood Dub to name only a few.

Q Festival starts at 18:00. Tickets 200 - 290kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

29.09 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday

The 7th Medieval Days on Mount Medvednica

Medvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 63 17, www.pp-medvednica.hr. Is this for the faint hearted?

The glory of chivalry returns as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous jousting tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking witches about!

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Summer in Maksimir 05.08 Sunday - 26.08 Sunday

A magical expirience at Lauba - The House for People and Art

Zagreb In Your Pocket

K-1/2, Maksimir Park, Maksimirski perivoj bb. Relive the classics of one of the world’s greatest bands with concerts held at the small stage near the main entry into Maksimir Park. They are live every Sunday in August between 18:00 and 20:00. Free entry!

12.08 Miroslav Kićo Slabinac feat. Tambura band Ružmarin 19.08 The Beatles Revival Band 26.08 Shoutin’ Torpedoes

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Culture & Events Top quirky events 21.04 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

21.04 Saturday - 29.09 Saturday

The Zagreb Time Machine

Dolac, Ban Josip Jelačić Square, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

Arhitect Viktor Kovačić - Photos, Adolf Loos, Vienna, 1905

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture.

As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Closed until September 11. U

29.05 Tuesday - 02.09 Sunday

Strossmartre - The 12th Summer on Stross

B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www. ljetonastrosu.com. Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

28.06 Thursday - 29.09 Saturday

Tkalčijana

C-1, Tkalčičeva ulica. Every Thursday and Friday between 19:00 and 23:00 as well as on Saturday between 11:00 and 13:00, stroll up to the old town with evergreen musical repertoires as well as the rhythms of swing, jazz and Irish music.

31.07 Tuesday - 04.09 Tuesday

The Gradec Summer Cinema

C-1, Katarinin trg, www.ljetnokinogradec.com.

Missing out on this ever more popular summer cinema is almost criminal. The open-air venue gives Zagreb-ites another appealing August time option in addition to the sea, and a deeply artistic one at that! And don’t forget: watching a great movie can sometimes lead to places further than the largest oceans. Q Shows start at 21:00.

Admision free.

06.07 Friday – 28.07 Saturday & 20.08 Monday – 05.09 Wednesday

Amadeo Scene

New Ganz New Festival, Florentina Holzinger & Vincent Riebeek

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B-1, The Croatian Natural Histor y Museum, Demetr ova 1, (+385-1) 481 69 08, w w w. scenaamadeo.hr. A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatrein Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue. Tickets 50 - 60kn. Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00.

August - September 2012

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Culture & Events Mirko Virius Gallery Mirko Virius Gallery (Association of the Naive Artists of Croatia), C-1 Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hd-naiva.hr. So you are in Zagreb, appreciate

art and seek some tradition and culture that depicts the city and its surroundings, then swing on in to the Mirko Virius Gallery. This is an exhibiting venue for the Croatian Society of Naïve Art which has upheld a proud 50 year tradition. Located in a baroque one level building on Tkalčićeva Street, the society endeavours to promote, preserve and protect this national art form. It is now the place for exhibiting works by self-taught artists and guest artists from abroad. The gallery was named after painter Mirko Virius who had painted many works which have shaped the Croatian naïve art scene as we know it today. Visitors can not only see but also buy paintings in the gallery with a certificate of authenticity provided.

Speaking of artists, Ivan Večenaj is a household name when it comes to naïve art. Having grown up in Gola, near the Hungarian border, Večenaj draws inspiration from old village legends, folk customs, religious motifs and landscapes. He is noted as the most expressive colourist with fiery clouds, grey winters, purple greenery, green cows, and blue roosters. See the works of a living legend! QOpen 10:00 – 18:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun

The 7th Medieval Days on Mount Medvednica, Photo by Josip Božić

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

Ivan Večenaj, Pevec

Gornji Grad Art Colony 02.06 - 02.09, as a part of Summer on Stross

Zagreb In Your Pocket

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr.

Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

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Culture & Events

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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A step back in time 24.08 Friday - 02.09 Sunday

Špancirfest

Varaždin, spancirfest.com. Heading North? Then don’t miss the series of special and entertaining events held in Varaždin, one of the most beautiful baroque cities in Croatia. This festival is growing in size and stature and watch as the entire city becomes a stage.

21.09 Friday - 02.10 Tuesday

Varaždin Baroque Evenings

Varaždin, www.vbv.hr. If it’s not Baroque, don’t fix it… in your calendar of events for a visit to Varaždin. This spectacular event has been a national gem for more than 30 years running. All five senses will be delighted by a whirlwind trip back in time featuring musical, literary and culinary masterpieces of the era.

Glory Dayz Festival

August - September 2012

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Lacemaking in croatia Festival of lace 20.09 Thursday - 23.09 Sunday

Lepoglava International Festival of Lace

Lepoglava, w w w.lepoglava-info.hr. As par t of UNESCO’s Intangible Heritage, Croatian lacemaking has been recognized as an invaluable international cultural contribution. Exhibits, concerts, lectures and workshops all strive to perpetuate the tradition of this beautiful handicraft.

Lepoglava lace Lacemaking is an craft from the past that has stood the test of time and has now become an icon of Croatian culture! Its origins are connected to the Renaissance period and cities of Venice and Antwerpen.

The main difference of the development of lacemaking in other European countries and Croatia, lies in its creators.

Whilst in Europe, lacemaking and the study of this craft was exclusi ve to women’s religious orders, ci tizenr y and aristocracy, in Croatia this craft was carried ou t by peasant women in small Pag lace rural areas. Th ey used to make lace for the purpose of women’s traditional clothes and linen house decorations.

Groovy indeed!

Today, there are three main centres of lacemaking in Croatia: Lepoglava in Hrvatsko zagorje with bobbin lacemaking, the town of Pag on the island of Pag with needle lacemaking, and the town of Hvar on the island of Hvar with agave lacemaking.

The craftsmanship of lacemaking was most probably brought to Lepoglava by the Pauline monks. Some of the most common motifs of the Lepoglava lace are: meander, snails, spiral, crescents, tulips, roses, poppies, primroses, grape vines, pine cones, lions and others. The traditional International Festival of Lace is held in September, and you can read more about it below. For that hand on experience, workshops are organized as part of the festival where visitors can try out the making of their own doily or decoration. In case you wish to take home the Lepoglava lace made by local lace weavers, make sure to visit the Lepoglava Lace Gallery which is located in the Tourist Cultural and Information Centre on Ulica hrvatskih pavlina 7, www.lepoglavskacipka.hr.

It is believed that the roots of lace from Pag can be traced back to Mycenae. It consists of a sp e ci fi c la c emakin g approach since the knowledge and technique were exclusively t ra n s fer re d from m o t h er to daughter through words and sheer practice, they are weaved with a thin thread and are extremely firm. There is a Pag lace lacemaking school as part of the Bartol Kašić High School. In the summer months, the lace can be purchased from the lace weavers who weave in front of their homes or on the street, as well as in the Frane

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Budak Pag Lace Gallery, located on the Branimirova obala bb, in Pag. The lace from Hvar is made from the threads of a typical Mediterranean plant, agave.

Thin strong threads are taken out of the fresh agave leaves which should not be under 3 years old. This craft originated on the Canary Islands, Tenerife to be exact, and has b een present in Hvar since the 19th century where it was brought by local seamen and was accepted Hvar lace by the Hvar nuns who would make their own version of this lace. To this day, this type of lace is made only by the nuns of the Benedictine monastery and you can take your very own copy home if you visit the Hanibal Lucić Art Collection in the Benedictine monastery, Groda bb, in Hvar. QOpen Mon – Sat 10:00 – 12:00, 17:00 – 19:00. Closed Sun.

Praise Hand 14.07 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday

Praise Hand - Lacemaking in Croatia

B-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. The transfer of this handicraft into rural communities led to the evolution of three distinct lace types in Croatia, a history that distinguishes the country’s rich culture of lacemaking. As a UNESCO intangible heritage, the preservation and revitalization of lacemaking is the aim of summertime celebrations throughout Croatia and will be honored at the museum by exhibitions, presentations and workshops.

Did you know?

Did you know that the Croatian National Bank in cooperation with the Croatian Financial Institute d.o.o in Zagreb has issued, as part of the ‘Minicoins’ series, special golden coins entitled ‘Lacemaking in Croatia’ with the motifs of the Pag and Lepoglava lace, which are part of the Croatia’s cultural heritage and under UNESCO protection? The golden coins were made via a special mint technique which ensures an excellent quality of the polished surface, and was issued for sale on January 2, 2012.

Notice: Lepoglava, Pag and Hvar lace are on the UNESCO list of non-material heritage.

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Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+3851) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb.

Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re

in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available dail y room rates. Pets welcome at 30€ dail y. Q 306 rooms (254 doubles €125 - 168, 28 suites €195 - 303, 23 Executive Rooms €150 - 193, Presidential Suite €1500).

PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westinzagreb. com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-delu xe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available.

Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €133 - 183, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €183 - 233, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 21 Executive Suites €268 - 318).

PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

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Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b,

tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-fromhome that draws local and international travelers alike.

Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-toknow fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time.

Thoughtful touches like a little things you need shop, cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr.

Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostelaway-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless.

Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person.

PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, www. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spirits are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18 - 40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW

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Hostel Arena H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 614 00 42, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostel.arena@ zgh.hr, www.nazor.hr. Set in the Remetinec-Lanište district, this hostel is a stone’s throw from Arena Zagreb.

It accommodates individuals and groups, has its own restaurant and car park too. Public transport (bus/tram) are close by and you are a mere 15 minutes from the city centre. Q (261 dorm beds, 125 - 180kn per person).

PALGBKXW Hostel Grad mladih L-2, Granešina bb, tel. (+3851) 298 40 73, fax (+385-1) 298 40 71, gmg@zgh.hr, www.nazor.hr. It’s a kids’ camp, so accommodation is a little school-like (but pleasant). There’s loads to do, and you’re in the lush green foothills of Mount Medvednica, above the eastern neighbourhood of Dubrava. Take bus 208 or 209 from the Dubec tram stop. Q 120 dorm beds, 115 - 135kn per person. TALEGK Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravniceyouth-hostel@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youth-hostel. hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean.

The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RILNGXW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+3851) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs. hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there’s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARUGW

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Where to stay Upmarket Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment.

Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480).

PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks.

Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls.

Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request.

Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187).

PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh

Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €78 - 123, 12 Family Suites €161 - 214, 22 Deluxe Suites €216 - 269, 17 Executive Rooms €98 - 133).

POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000).

PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Old-School charm The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info.

Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person.

Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555).

POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Where to stay Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn).

THABK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Parking 29€ per day. Q 27 rooms (10 singles €39, 11 doubles €55, 1 triple €79, 4 apartments €99, 1 Twin Room €69).

PTJ6ULNGKW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets.

Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triple €102, 1 apartment €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@slisko.hr, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh

Budget Jägerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www. hotel-jagerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side.

The hotel’s restaurant specializes in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127).

PJAILGBKXW hhh Zagreb J-4, Damira Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@ hup-zagreb.hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles €41, 36 doubles €49). iARLGKW hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb.

Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

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Where to stay Mountain high During August, get out to Sljeme and away from the city lights, to enjoy a beautiful celestial phenomenon: the Perseids meteor shower. The height of activity for the “Tears of St. Lawrence” is expected on the evenings of 10-13 August. Enjoy this unique natural wonder from the terrace of Tomislavov dom and Snježna kraljica.

Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 - 118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, w w w.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q 41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84).

THA6UFGBKDCW hhh

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center.

Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

Valentina Bunić

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Bosnian Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, tel.

(+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee.

Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal.

Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAGB

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. Closed Sundays from July - September 15. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX

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Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. Q July - September Open 12:00 - 23:00. (68 - 130kn). P1TAGB Kaptolska klet C-1, Kaptol 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 48 38/(+385-1) 481 43 30, info@kaptolska-klet.hr, www.kaptolska-klet.hr. A warm rustic interior of stucco and massive wood beams makes for the perfect old world atmosphere for devouring old world fare - or perhaps a pint or two. The restaurant cooks up a Zagreb -Zagorje cuisine for reasonable prices. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 100kn).

PAGB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices.

The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac.

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (65 - 125kn). PA

Quick Eats NEW

Hamburger Bar K-4,

Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76.

Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. All hamburgers cost 30kn. B

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Restaurants Chic & Cheerful Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40. Understated fabulousness permeates this mustgo spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tvfamous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and 19:00 - 23:00).

QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNB Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open Mon - Wed 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (15-75kn). PB KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kuna. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages.

While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. (14 - 110kn). JNB

Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05.

You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn).

PAG Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com.hr, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr.

Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. (+385-1) 617 75 45, fellini@ fellini.hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location make it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAGB

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Restaurants Vegeterian corner

La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/

(+385-) 099 707 44 22, www.restoran-laboca.com.

Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB

Japanese Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). P1AGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you!

The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free

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Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com. hr) locations while on your adventures through the city.

Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+3851) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert.

The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75.

Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35kn). PNG dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

(70 - 180kn). P1AG

August - September 2012

25

Restaurants

26

Mighty fine wine NEW

Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 35 93,

info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar.net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience.

An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure.

QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station.

“Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar.

Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 110kn). PALGBW

Pizza Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16.

With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed August 1 - August 15. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn).

PAVGBS

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Gastro events 24.08 Friday - 26.08 Sunday

What our forefathers used to eat

Vrbovec. Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our folks used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music. For more info see www.tz-vrbovec.hr or contact the Vrbovec Tourist Board, Trg Petra Zrinskog 7a, Vrbovec, tel. (+385-1) 279 16 61, tzvrbovec@tzzz.hr.

01.09 Saturday

Something fishy!

Sveta Nedelja. A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test! Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel. (+385-1) 337 39 19, info@svetanedelja.hr, www.svetanedelja.hr.

06.09 Thursday - 09.09 Sunday

Jaska Wine Celebration

Jastrebarsko. To th e sou th west of Za greb, th e pl easan t town of Jastrebarsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly picturesque wine-producing region.

Ever y Septemb er, th e locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great oppor tunity to try some of the excellent l o cal win e s, culinar y specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart from that, there’s a full programme of entertainment laid on it’s a truly jolly occasion. Jastrebarsko Tourist Board, Strossmayerov trg 4, Jastrebarsko, tel. (+385-1) 627 29 40, info@tzg j.hr, www.tzg j.hr.

15.09 Saturday - 16.09 Sunday

A Millennium of Cookery

The Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park. The Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park is a stunning area of serrated woody hills to the west of Zagreb. Human habitation here stretches back to the Celts. The workshop “Tisućljeća kulinarstva” (“A Millennium of Cookery”) explores a thousand years of cookery, featuring highly original recipes and healthy ingredients. The day kicks off at 10:00 with a tour of the park’s archaeological trail, followed by the workshop and consumption of the resulting goodies.To join in, please contact the Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park authorities on (+385-1) 332 76 60, arheolog@ park-zumberak.hr, www.park-zumberak.hr. Q 40kn per person to join in.

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Kava culture Art Side of Cafés Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03

Coffee The fifth food group. That brown line that traces the dietary border of the food pyramid. Where would we be without it?

Well, probably without this month’s ZIYP for a start. We would also be without the enlightenment, the pyramids, and the occasional heart palpitation. If you can’t live without coffee, you’ve come to the right place. Zagreb’s love affair with the coffee bean is outdone only by the entertainment derived from the art of drinking it. Visitors to the nation’s capital are forever stunned by the sheer number of cafés spilling onto the pavement, resplendent in their multitude of shapes and sizes (sometimes no bigger than a walk-in-closet), and their proximity to one another. If you’ve experienced the joy of the Zagreb coffee break, just short of dogma in this city, then you’re familiar with its gregarious customs – people ricocheting from café to café, all hours of the day and in all corners of the city. To drink coffee here is to be a disciple of civilization, sipping cheek by jowl with the rest of polite society.

History Way, way, way before Starbucks...

Once upon a time, long before the world of “double half-decaf short skinny latte – hold the foam” culture (over 1,300 years ago, in fact), there was a plant – a coffee plant as it happens – cultivated in Yemen, which was promptly set forth upon the rest of the world. Eventually, the Dutch enthusiastically embraced the tree that evolved and, in the early 1700s, bequeathed one to louts XIV of France, transforming him into a zealous coffee drinker. His fervor inspired him to build Europe’s first greenhouse that begot millions of coffee trees and, as a result, more coffee for the world.

The first coffee houses opened in Constantinople (Istanbul) around 1550 and were called “schools of wisdom”, wisdom being in the form of music, games, poetry discussions, and politics. Coffee arrived in England before tea, believe it or not, and English coffee houses of the 1600s were a home away from home for many. These early cafés sometimes served as barber shops and gambling houses, and many were places where ideas of the times were discussed. For a penny, men (women were not permitted entry) could buy a coffee and a newspaper and philosophize away, for which the coffee houses became known as “penny universities.” Yet, the popularity of coffee was not so contagious everywhere; Italian wine and lemonade merchants in the 1600s, anxious about their waning trade, dubbed coffee “Satan’s drink”. Their plans were foiled when Pope Clement VII, won over by the taste of the brown liquid, baptized it to make it a Christian drink.

The very word coffee is derived from Arabic, and means “wine” or “excitement”. The Arabs are also thought to be the first who actually “brewed” coffee. Surprisingly, adding milk to your brew was unheard of before 1800.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.

PNGBXW Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

PJAGBW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artiststroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

August - September 2012

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Kava culture The Saturday Špica The Saturday morning coffee ritual, in particular, is infinitely more than just coffee – it’s a social happening.

People cruise, chat, mingle and, of course, sip their way through the korsos – or špicas – of Zagreb (Bogovićeva and Tkalčićeva are top destinations in the café society pecking order). And tough luck elbowing your way to a seat: turnover is low, as people spend a good part of their day static once settled. See and be seen is at the crux of it all.

And the tradition is certainly an infectious one, so put on your Saturday best and go wild. Or sit back, be provoked into thought, interrogate street vendors, sing along with buskers, ponder the fickle nature of fashion on the worthy specimens before you and, naturally, drink your coffee.

Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, www.retro-caffe. hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PNBXW Trocadero B-2, Dalmatinska 12 (passage), tel. (+3851) 484 94 40. The answer to parents’ prayers! Short of including babysitting services on the menu, this spot couldn’t get any family-friendlier. With the café situated inside of a park, parents enjoy their coffees while watching their children swing, slide, see-saw, romp and play to their hearts’ delight. Those seeking a spot for undisturbed contemplation, however, are suggested to find their solace elsewhere. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Coffee art 18.10 Thursday - 21.10 Sunday C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.coffeeart-zagreb. com. This is literally coffee heaven! Anything to do with the magic bean is here, from producers, roasters, and designers to the latest equipment and accessories. Then there are coffee cakes, chocolate, cigars, cognac, rum, liqueurs, cocktails and you can even see the emergence of coffee drawing. Let the aroma take you away for at least one day…

Kavanas Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.

The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX Lav Gallery & Caffè C-1, Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 2108. Between St. Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate, this tucked-away café has a great view that is too often overlooked. The delicious teas, either in a stately service or refreshingly iced, make it a perfect spot in any weather. Lav’s antique décor and local artists’ gallery adds to the dignified elegance of any visit to Upper Town. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. August Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. B Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout.

Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Kavanas, the grande old dames of Zagreb’s café tradition, will appeal to romantics at heart. They offer the luxery of dawdling over a cup of coffee – of ten with the best view in town – in a tradition carried over from the Viennese.

These establishments are big on charm and ambience – the kind that unwittingly seeps nostalgia into your skin.

Gradska Kavana C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 10, info@gradskakavana.hr, www.gradskakavana.hr. Today’s Gradska Kavana was opened in 1930 and was able to receive up to 600 guests inside and 300 guests out in the open area. Decorated in the Art Deco style, it was one of the most beautiful and most luxurious cafes in the heart of town. However, over time the ‘Gradska Kavana’ was forgotten and other cafes set the benchmark as being the place to be. These days, we are proud to announce that the former glory and shining glow of the Gradska Kavana is back. Having regained its charm, visitors are able to sip coffee, nibble on breakfast or even dine on specialties from the Zagreb region. All this can be topped off with the traditional offer of coffee and delicacies. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. AGBW Lisinski J-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 14. This is the perfect pre- or post-concert drinking spot and could easily hold the country’s entire population. The 1970s beige-vinyl styling will make you feel like a bright-eyed child again. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PNGB Mala kavana C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 33. Right behind Jelačića’s black steed’s ample rear-end, you won’t feel you got the bad end of the deal. Your study of the human animal will prove very fruitful from here. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. JAGB

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Nightlife

Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed July 27 - August 23. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.

Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.

July 15 - August 15 Open Mon 19:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Green Gold

Bars

Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B

Casinos Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60, casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr.

Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www.goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

www.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012

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Nightlife Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 1528. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon - Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. B Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them?

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standingroom only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. PBX

Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB Melin C-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 66, www. melin.hr. This small space with a big reputation transforms from cafe-by-day to club-by-night while keeping its groovy vibe on at all hours. Situated just off the oh-so-famous Tkalčićeva street, Melin’s massive terrace has many locals gravitating here in warm weather. The interior provides copious niches and nooks, inviting for drinks in-style any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. B Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com.

Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun.

It has two separate floors with each with a different sound.

Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin.

Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Gnijezdo J-2, Mesnička 36, tel. (+385-) 092 141 74 51, www.gnijezdo.com. This little “nest” in upper town has people flocking from all over the city for drinks, dinner and dancing. The adorable décor adorns a bar, dance floor and crows’ nest spanning two floors of cozy spaces for groups of all sizes. Two menu specials are offered daily from 11:00 - 15:00 for around 30 kuna. Drop in later for hors d’oeuvres and stay for DJ or swing band nights. Q Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PBX Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mansion

Billiards Mr. Q J-3, Šubićeva 55, tel. (+385-) 098 38 75 38.

The city’s first and most historic pool hall is infused with gaming spirit. Billiards and snooker are the main attraction but chess, darts and card tables round-out the offerings. Drop in between noon and seven for a half priced Happy Hour or on a Friday or Saturday when the inviting bar atmosphere gets even cooler with live bands filling the former factory space. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What to see Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city.

There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery.

Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog)

C - 2 / 3 , Tr g N i ko l e Šubića Zrinskog.

Th e combina tion of th e ou td o or ga zeb o, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues m a ke t h i s s u c ke r a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: l o cal l overs sh ow-off Kristina Vlakić their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works

by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15.

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Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)

C-1, Kamenita bb.

This arch way was o n e o f t h e fo u r original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period.

In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was re constru c te d in 1760 an d h a sn’t Kristina Vlakić been touched since.

Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, blacksoot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

Vladimir Živković

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What to see Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene

Museums

Vesna Špoljar

Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. Q Open Tue, Wed, Fri and Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 10 - 30kn.

City tours ZET Mini Tourist Train Another alternative way of sightseeing the city is via the Mini Tourist Train. To obtain more information, visit www.zet.hr.

ZET Open Top Tourist Bus Hop-on, hop-off round trips run from May through to September. That means you can get on or off at any route stop throughout the day.

One route circles the heart of the city (12.5km long, red route, runs every 90min from 12:00 - 19:00), while the other takes you in a wider circle around the city centre (32.5km - green route, runs every 120min from 14:00 17:20). The tours depart from Bakačeva ulica, near the Cathedral at Kaptol. An audio guide in 8 languages tells you about the sights you drive past. Tickets cost 70kn for adults, 35kn for children between 7 and 18, while kids under 7 are free of charge. Buy your tickets from the driver or in the ZET office at Petrićeva 4 which is only a one minute walk from Ban Jelačić Square. Another ZET office is located at Ozaljska 105. You can download route maps from www.zet.hr - click on the link turističke linije and look for link named karta - trasa linija turističkih autobusa or pick one up from the office at Petrićeva 4.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr.

Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Claudia Lichnovsky

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What to see Zagreb’s Solar System

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace.

Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971.

In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

Street Art in Dugave The Museum of Street Art in Dugave. Street Art is well and truly alive with the suburb of Dugave putting Croatia back on the art map. The beginning of September will see thirty local and international artists bring their spray cans, brushes, masks, and other hidden treasures to reveal their expressive traits. The event will include 3D video mapping, nylon puppet sculptures and other imaginative tricks that will leave the audience spellbound. By September 15, Dugave will become the biggest street museum in Croatia. It is a great symposium for the revival of forgotten parts of the city, promoting trends in creating street art throughout the entire region as well as a platform for networking.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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What to see Parks Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) B-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Closed November - April 1. Admission free.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

bb, www.zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QZoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20-30kn.

Vesna Špolljar

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg

Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. 1

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What to see Dolac and Britanski trg Dolac The main city market, ‘Dolac’, represents a true Zagreb experience to a ny vi si tor. I t i s located in the old city centre, between the Ban Jelačić Square, Kaptol, the Cathedral and the Upper Town.

The top level offers fruit and vegetables, eggs, ch e ese, cream an d other dairy products which can be bought.

There is a fish market that houses fresh and salt water fish as well as an assortment of other seafood. Inside the big hall in front of Dolac, cheese, cream and other dairy products are also sold, not to mention scrumptious homemade cakes…there are also many butcher shops as well as fruit and vegetable stands. The construction of the Dolac market started in 1927 with the digging of the hill that once stood there.

In 1930, when the market was finally open, it was the most modern market at that time and consisted of three levels. The fish market was opened in 1936 and was completely reconstructed in 1989.

North of Dolac, there is the Petrica Kerempuh Square with various florists and ZGH Archives a famous café. Near the

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays.

It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

statue of Petrica, there is a small shop which sells healing herbs and food. From the north, the market then expands to Opatovina with numerous fashion and crafty type shops. The Ban Jelačić Square and Dolac are connected

by Splavnica Street where flowers are also sold. Dolac is most famous for its kumice, traditional women mostly of the older gen who not only sell goods from the Zagreb outskirts but also grow the fruit and vegetables which are then sold at the market. In their honour and as a reminder of that tradition, a statue of kumica was erected at the market in 2006. Working hours: Workdays: 07:00 - 15:00, Saturday: 07:00 - 14:00; Sunday: 07:00 - 13:00.

Britanski trg (British Square) Do you enjoy perusing, exploring or dare we say nosing around, spontaneously looking for that odd item that gives a finishing touch to your abode? Then head on to the Britanski trg, one of Zagreb’s longl a s t i n g s q u a re s.

There is the fair of ceramics, porcelain, glass and jewellery which is held every Th u r s d a y fro m 12:00 until 20:00.

Readers can delve into th e se con d hand book fair called Liberplac, it is on ZGH Archives every Friday from 12:00 until 20:00. The most popular fair is the Antiques fair which is open on Saturdays from 07:00 until 14:00 and on Sundays from 07:30 until 14:30.

Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified bod y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar.

The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Your partner in Zagreb!

Accomodation, public transport, city tourist bus, parking and much more! www.zgh.hr

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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What to see Photo competition Be Local!

Photo Competition Be Local!

Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky!

The four competitions run during the following dates:

1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition. An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions.

Želimir Beštak - This Issue’s winning photo This particular photo was the one that we liked most because the beauty of the city was clearly shown. Zagreb bathing in the rain, looking sleepy and then suddenly the sun shines and the whole city comes alive... It beckons you to walk through its old city streets, enjoy its colours and experience it in your own way.

The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.

How to Enter

Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”.

Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken.

The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.

Conditions of Entry

We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for non-commercial purposes together with

the name of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list.

*Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

Vesna Špoljar, Painter Z.Turkalj and daugther N.Bell - The Gornji Grad Art Colony, open until 2 September

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discover zagorje Culture & Events Special events 02.09 Sunday - 09.09 Sunday

A Week of Kajkavian Culture

The Ljudevit Gaj Square, The City of Krapina Gallery, The Festival Hall, streets and squares in the city of Krapina.

The 47th Week of Kajkavian Culture is a traditional event which tries to preserve and enrich the Kajkavian language and customs of Hrvatsko zagorje. Just so you know, kaj is spoken as ‘kay’ in English, and this includes the exhibitions, ‘Kaj in a word, picture, song and dance’, ‘The earliest Kaj is the sweetest’, a fair entitled ‘Where can that still be bought’, 20 new Kajkavian songs, these are just some of the events which will be held as part of the week long events.

15.09 Saturday

The Medieval Tabor under Tabor

Veliki Tabor Castle, Desinić, www.velikitabor.com. Step back into the glory of the medieval times with this one day celebration that reinvigorates that classic ambience in the company of the City of Tabor noblemen, of the noble Ratkay family and their guests.

15.09 Saturday

The Zagorje Wedding

Staro selo Kumrovec Museum, Kumrovec b. b., www. kumrovec.hr. It’s not just about saying ‘I do’, weddings here were oh so ceremonial. Visitors can learn about the traditional wedding customs of the Kumrovec area (the proposal, the engagement, the wedding, taking off of the wreath, or the moment when a bride becomes a true young woman). The entire wedding celebrations are held according to the old rules of the Kumrovec area from the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century.

27.09 Thursday - 30.09 Sunday

Grape Picking

Pregrada, www.pregrada.hr. You may devour a drop of wine but why not see the entire process of its production from yester year. This event nurtures the cultural and ethnic traditions of the area from the custom of picking grapes to the process of turning grapes into wine. See the old tools and means in which ‘our ancestors’ used to produce vino.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

28.09 Friday - 07.10 Sunday

Days of the Kajkavian Word Zlatar 2012

Zlatar, www.zlatar.hr. By golly this event pays tribute to this fancy dialect through a cultural periscope. It includes the meeting of little poets from the Kajkavian speaking area, the Children’s art exhibition ‘Man to man’, a Children’s Song Festival, book promotions, exhibitions held in the Gallery of authentic art, concerts and theatre shows, ethno events Pajdaško sprehajanje (a depiction of old Zagorje customs and crafts, an exhibition of handmade products and traditional cakes Po starinski); a series of sport and entertainment events as organized by the associations from Zlatar and Belec. So it’s kaj all the way…

Agrotourism Grešna gorica Taborgradska 3, Desinić, tel. (+38549) 34 30 01, gresna@gresna-gorica.com, w w w. gresna-gorica.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Open by prior arrangement.

Kozjak Kozjak Začretski 18 a, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 88 00, krunoslav.svigir@kr.t-com.hr, www.klet-kozjak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Masnec Luka Poljanska 41, Zagorska Sela, tel. (+38549) 55 21 33, franc.masnec@kr.t-com.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Stara vodenica Gredice 32, Klanjec, tel. (+385-49) 55 05 77, vodenica@staravodenica.hr, www.staravodenica. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A Trsek Trnovec Desinićki 23, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 34 34 64, josip@trsek.hr, www.trsek.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Vinski Vrh Gornjaki 56, Hrašćina, tel. (+385-49) 45 82 87, bolfan@bolfanvinskivrh.hr, www.bolfanvinskivrh.hr.

QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. A Vuglec Breg Škarićevo 151, Krapina, tel. (+385-49) 34 50 15, info@vuglec-breg.hr, www.vuglec-breg.hr.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A

Wine Tasting History books reveal that the tradition of wine in the Krapinsko-zagorska region dates back to the Late Antique period. Travelling Roman soldiers had set up a military post at the Vinski Vrh (The Wine Peak), where even today excellent wines are produced. There, the Romans would indulge in wine and through the course of the evening were supposedly entertained by elves that would chant and provide encouragement for up and coming battles. When the soldiers would fall asleep, the elves would hide their weapons to prevent the soldiers from any further warfare. And so generations have passed …To this present day, wine makers can still hear the singing of the banshee coming from their wine cellars whose melodies blend with the aromas of wine.

Broz Žarko Ulica Lijepe naše 24, Klanjec, tel. (+38549) 55 01 69, kontakt@podrum-obitelji-broz.com, www. podrum-obitelji-broz.com. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Drenški Boris Rusnica 64, Hum na Sutli, tel. (+38549) 34 04 66, bodren@kr.t-com.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Grozaj Vineyard Donja Pačetina, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 74 47, josip-gigi6@net.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Hajduk Vineyard Gaber 38, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 34 35 17, hajduk11@vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Open by prior arrangement Kapljica Wine Cellar Trg hrvatske kraljice Jelene 2, Sveti Križ Začretje, tel. (+385-49) 22 68 84. Q Open by prior arrangement.

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discover zagorje

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April - May 2012

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discover zagorje

Pišković Stjepan A. Gredičaka 13, Oroslavlje, tel. (+385-) 098 25 14 53. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Sever Zvonko Kumrovečka 4, Klanjec, tel. (+385-) 098 31 51 82, fax (+385-49) 50 21 47. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Zdolc Robert Klenice 17, Pregrada, tel. (+385-49) 37 65 81, robert.zdolc@zg.t-com.hr, www.vina-zdolc.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

What to see Museums Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) Šetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina,

tel. (+385-49) 37 14 91, mkn@mhz.hr, www.mkn. mhz.hr. The new Neanderthal Museum in Krapina opened in February 2010 and is a brilliant day out. Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience.

It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. This is the most numerous and most varied collection of such fossils in the world. The remains of dozens of people were found, together with those of animals such as the cave bear, wolf and rhinoceros as well as Palaeolithic stone implements. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. It is not only the direct connection with the original find that brings you so close to deep prehistory: sculptures of Neanderthal families are so realistic that visitors have an eerie sense that they are about to move at any moment.

You’re propelled back in time by sounds and smells recreating the world of Neanderthal man. You can touch the sculptures and learn about their emotions, rituals and entertainment. In short, this is about as close to Neanderthal man as you can possibly get, and is a real eye-opener, revealing how close to our own kind the Neanderthals truly were. QOpen 09:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 50kn.

set up a peasants’ state. The revolt threatened to destabilise a large region, thus the feudal armies reacted with brutal speed. Gubec and his men lost the last peasant stronghold, Stubičke Toplice, in a bloody battle. Gubec was taken to St Mark’s square in Zagreb where he was publicly executed in a most gruesome manner.

As well as telling the story of this folk hero, the Museum’s collection includes displays on the historical development of the region and on the life of the nobility. A baroque chapel in the grounds houses the Permanent Exhibition of Sacral Art in Zagorje. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 10-20kn.

Veliki Tabor Castle (Dvor Veliki Tabor) Košnički Hum 1, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 37 49 70, www.velikitabor. com. Veliki Tabor is one of the best preserved late medieval and renaissance fortified settlements in inland Croatia, and is a mighty construction indeed, dominating a hilltop and visible for miles around. It was built by the aristocratic Rattkay family in the 16th century, and remained in their hands until 1793. The oldest part of the complex is the late gothic palace which was their residence. The palace is surrounded by four semi-circular renaissance towers, and this complex was encircled by a defensive wall with a bastion. Extensive restoration works are currently taking place at the Veliki Tabor castle so it is closed to visitors. However, the castle is impressive even from outside, and the views from its hilltop are fabulous. Please check www.mhz.hr for information on opening (Croatian language only). Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Religious Sights The Shrine of the Mother of God of Bistrica (Hrvatsko nacionalno svetište Majke Božje Bistričke) Trg pape Ivana Pavla II. 32, Marija Bistrica, www.svetiste-mbb.hr. The Shrine of the Mother of God of Bistrica is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Croatia. It’s set in the idyllic little town of Marija Bistrica amid the rolling hills of Zagorje, around 40km from Zagreb.

The pilgrimages traditionally take place on about 50 dates from the first Sunday following Easter until the end of October, bringing more than one million visitors per year to the town.

The site became revered thanks to a miraculous black wooden statue of the Madonna and Child. This is now kept in Marija Bistrica’s magnificent church, although it started out life at the end of the 15th century in a chapel on a nearby hill called Vinski Vrh. Due to the threat of invading armies, this statue was hidden on several occasions, and sometimes it was forgotten. In 1684 it revealed its presence by emitting a curious light. Marija Bistrica became a place of pilgrimage in 1715.

Pope John Paul II visited Marija Bistrica on 3 October 1998.

A list of dates of pilgrimages is published (in Croatian only) on www.svetiste-mbb.hr.

The Peasants’ Revolt Museum (Muzej seljačkih buna) Samci 63, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 58 78

80, msb@mhz.hr, www.mhz.hr. This museum is dedicated to one of the best-loved figures in Croatian history, local peasant hero Matija Gubec. 16th century central Europe was characterised by peasant uprisings due to poor living conditions and ill-treatment by feudal landowners. After years of suffering at the hands of notorious blueblood Franjo Tahy, in 1573 Gubec led a plot to overthrow the government and

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Mail & Phones Post Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL I-6, Utinjska 40, Sveta Klara, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, info.hr@rheagrupa.com, www.rhea.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Global Express outskirts, Stupničke Šipkovine 3, Donji Stupnik, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express. hr, www.global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Hpekspres D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. N UPS F-6, Zastavnice 38a, Hrvatski Leskovac, tel. (+385-1) 460 70 00/(+385-1) 345 45 55, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N CityEx K-4, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-1) 0800 303 333, info@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express Jelkovečka 5, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

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Getting around Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside.

When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices.

Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Car rental Avis & Budget D-3, Kneza Borne 2/(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen

08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Public transport Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

SMS Tram. You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30 and as the summer period often brings upon extra demand, buses will ride on all tram lines until September 2. Schedules can be found at http://www.zet.hr/tramvaj/dnevni.aspx. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn.

Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience.

Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day.

For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Getting around Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-

1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Bicycle rental Blue bike , tel. (+385-) 098 188 33 44, inf o@

zagrebbybike.com, www.zagrebbybike.com. 100kn/ day, 50kn for the rest of the day if you take one of the regular Blue Bike tours.

Mondo Bicycles A-2, Ilica 100, info@mondobicycles. com, www.mondobicikli.com. All you need is a document wi th a ph oto. 70kn/6 h ours, 100k n/day, 170k n/2 daysQOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively acc ording to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

ZET Value Cards If you are looking at value for money then you simply cannot go passed the ZET Value Card. This gem of a pocket sized card works via a top-up system, as soon as you add money to you card it is ready for use, a minimum amount of 10kn is needed to activate the card and the maximum amount peaks at 1000kn. An added bonus is that by using this card a travel ride costs a mere 10kn, and that is the best price in town. The ZET value card can be used across all zones and lines and as an added bonus, it is transferable to other users. Where can you get your hands on this ZET Value Card? It can be purchased at all ZET shops and partner kiosks (iNovine and Tisak). By purchasing at these places you can choose the amount you wish to credit your card with. So what happens once you have entered a ZET bus or train? Be kind to the elderly passengers and offer a seat of course, but before that be sure to place your card onto the ticket machine and the amount of money will automatically be deducted at the relevant transport rate for one zone and one person. To make matters all the more easier, the option for English is available before the entire process begins. To start with, simply choose the zone and the number of passengers you wish to pay for, then place the value card onto the machine and once the transaction has been completed, the text ekarta uspješno kupljena will appear, as well as the full purchase amount and the expiry time. Now you are right at home! This procedure is the same for all zones. The entire city of Zagreb is in the first zone (includes all tram lines and the funicular) but if you use the bus ask the driver for how many zones you have to pay for transportation. If you wish to purchase a daily ticket (40kn), then choose the dnevna karta option and repeat the above procedure. Once you receive your ekarta uspješno kupljena, 40kn, you’re done. And how can you find out your balance? Place your value card onto the machine and choose the option ‘i’. So we wish you a safe and enjoyable ride on your ZET journeys!

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Taxi Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer.

These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet.

Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

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Shopping Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492

08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr.

Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49.

Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 54/(+385-) 091 793 06 32, andrea.rozic@zg.tcom.hr. Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Boudoir

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr.QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-

1) 659 10 50, off ice@avenuemall.com.hr, w w w. avenuemall.com.hr.Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. City Center One East L-4, Slavonska avenija (Žitnjak), info@citycenterone.com, w w w.citycenterone.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

City Centre One West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Zagreb In Your Pocket

Art galleries @telier C-2, Ilica 14, w w w.angels-by-ella.com.

Every angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. A lovely gallery spot for a stroll amongst artistry or for finding a perfect memento for life’s earth-bound angels. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr.

Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr.

Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com.

The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

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Shopping Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60

16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, w w w. prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode C-2, Tkalčićeva 61.

An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen

Souvenirs

A’marie FW 2011

Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Širok C-2, Bakačeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 65 52. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Teslina 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Art Shops HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on.

Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. A Zagreb In Your Pocket

Apiteka C-2, Prolaz Sestara Baković 1, tel. (+3851) 487 27 55, info@radovanpetrovic.com, w w w. medpetrovic.com. A large hodgepodge of honey products used for both medical and cooking purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@bakinakuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A Caprilo C-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96 44. Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Chai - svijet čaja Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-1) 387 91 35, kontakt@svijetcaja.com, www. svijetcaja.com. The best quality teas from all over the world, utensils for making and serving tea, Belgian pralines, chocolate and other sweets. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. (+385-1) 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja. hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A-2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

Ashoo by Anita Zannotti Štulec

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Second Hand Heaven

ZGH Archives

Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485

47 05. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn.

Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kuna. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section.

Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kuna. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. From 9 kn.

The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s

Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@

delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Izvorno.hr Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, www.izvorno.hr. If you want authentic Croatian products then come hence forth and choose from their great range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Kuća piva (Beer House) I-3, Gorjanska 22, tel. (+385-) 091 537 67 70, kucapiva@gmail.com, www.kucapiva. com. Prepare yourself for some hard decision making as there are a staggering 170 different beers from 16 different countries. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn.

Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg.

Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon.

The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.

Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel.

(+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pinklec Delicije E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Ulični ormar

August - September 2012

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48

Leisure Sport events 4.09 Tuesday

IAAF Grand Prix Zagreb 2012, The 62nd Boris Hanžeković Memorial Meeting

H-4/5, Mladost Sports Park, Jarunska 5, www. zagreb-meeting.com.

08.09 Saturday - 15.09 Saturday

The 8th Zagreb Ladies Open

K-2, Maksimir Tennis Centre, V. Ravnice bb.

15.09 Saturday - 16.09 Sunday

Kepertov Memorial

G-4/5, Lake Jarun, www.ycz.hr.

21.09 Friday - 23.09 Sunday

Croatian rowing championships

G-4/5, Jarun Lake, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb, www. veslanje.hr.

29.09 Saturday

International Kayaking Marathon

Sava river at Samoborski otok, Lake Jarun Sports Centre, www.kanuklubkoncar.hr.

Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-

Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun

1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.

Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

Massage

Ivan Šmuk, Bundek

Fitness & Gym 14:00 - 24:00. A

info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this.

Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Be interactive!

25.08 Saturday

European Bat Night

Glavica Mountain Lodge, Medvednica Nature Park, www.pp-medvednica.hr. The annual celebration of the often-misunderstood winged mammal of folklore notoriety is commemorated in Croatia with lectures and exhibitions in scenic Medvednica. The full-day workshops aim to dispel myths while inviting a chance for outdoor family fun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

leisure Let the sun shine!

Spa & Beauty

Mario Radaković

Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, www.sljeme.hr. Swimming pool, sauna, gym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and body treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A

Yoga

Divya Yoga Studio D-3, Kralja Držislava 14/II, tel. (+385-) 098 61 49 57, divya@yogazagreb.com, www. yogazagreb.com.

Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr.

Sangha Yoga Studio C-2, Ilica 11, tel. (+385-) 091 780 65 73, sangha_yoga@yahoo.co.uk, www. sanghayoga.hr.

We pooled our ideas to find ten good reasons to be in Zagreb in August, and ended up coming up with twenty.

Here they are: 1. You can park without driving around in circles for hours, and your journey takes half the normal time – yippee!

2. You know that everybody who’s on holiday is dealing with tourist traffic and fighting for space on the beaches and in the bars and restaurants. Those in the know go in September.

3. You have the pick of seats in the pavement cafes – the local café crawlers are on holiday.

4. The city is full of tourists and backpackers, has a rare cosmopolitan feel, and you have the chance to meet new people on an evening out.

5. You can enjoy promenade concerts on Sundays in the shade of the lovely Zrinjevac park, surrounded by trees, fountains and art nouveau architecture.

6. You can walk around quaint Gornji grad with hardly a soul around to disturb the atmosphere.

7. You can spend long, lazy evenings lingering over a drink or a meal in the balmy air.

8. You can laze away an afternoon with a book in Maksimir park, then munch grilled meats to your heart’s content in a barbecue restaurant.

9. You can swim in the open air pool at Šalata and have a coffee or a drink in the bar next door.

10. For a break from the heat of the city, why not head for Zagreb’s botanical garden, a veritable oasis of peace and green. What’s more, entry is free!

11. Or spend a day lazing in the sunshine and soaking in thermal water at a Zagorje spa, then treat yourself to a hearty meal in a cosy traditional Zagorje restaurant.

12. It’s a great time of year to go hiking or biking around Zagreb County.

13. There are loads of exhibitions on in the museums and galleries – a great way to escape the heat of the day.

14. Escape the crowds and enjoy fresh air, leafy shade, green meadows and great food on Mount Medvednica.

15. Take in a concert or a theatre performance at the Amadeo summer stage in the atmospheric courtyard of the Natural History Museum in the Upper Town.

16. Or enjoy costumed period theatre and comedy at the Zagreb Histrionic Summer festival, in the park at the top of Opatovina street.

17. Show off your skills rollerblading at Jarun Lake, followed by a dip, loads of sports, kids’ stuff, food and drink.

18. Summer clubbing moves outside: check out the Jarun clubs, or try Purgeraj in the Ribnjak park.

19. Devour delicious home-made ice cream from the cake shops and ice cream parlours.

20. Know that you’ll have cheaper prices when you go to the sea out of peak season.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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50

leisure Lake Jarun

As we nudge our way into the summer months, reminiscent of a drunken teenager Zagreb tends to get a little dizzy and disorientated – not to mention sweaty – and thus decamps for the season on the lengthened concrete shores of this man-made lake. Flung out of the central vortex of the city into the far south-western corner, Jarun plays hot-season host to an enthusiastic population of clubs, cafes and cocktail bars.

The added bonus is that your time spent here need not only consist of activities that curb your health. Jarun is the base for all types of water sports: fishing, canoeing, sailing and swimming. Many people pooh-pooh the water quality at Jarun, but it is possessed of 5-count ‘em!-Blue Flag beaches. Yaah boo sucks Dalmatia, the Zagreb sea rules!

Back on the shore, you can partake in: hand/foot/volley/ basket ball, biking and rollerblading. All of which is going to leave you thirsty as hell of course and looking seriously fit and healthy. So back to drinking and pulling. Also to be found here throughout the time of the warm weather are concerts, theatre and festivals. To get there and back from the centre of the city take tram No5 or 17 between 04:00 – 23:50. At other hours the night tram service runs with No32 turning up every 40 minutes or so. Note: At the other hours from May 7 until September 2 buses will ride on all tram lines, schedules can be found at http://www. zet.hr/tramvaj/nocni.aspx.

Running There’s a 5.5km “trim track” right the way round where you can amble, blade or cycle at will, perfecting that tush.

Placards bearing stories of “Croatian Sporting Greats”, some of whom have spectacular facial topiary, give you all the motivation you need.

Rollerblading & Cycling Keen punters can rent-a-bike or roller blades at Jarun, just look for the small booth located at the Petrine entrance (small lake). Open 10:00 – 20:30 on weekends and public holidays, weekdays 15:00 – 18:00.

Swimming Beaches are on the south side, the Univerzijade and Trešnjevka islands and the little lake, and are really quite clean, whatever those picky Dalmatians might say. There’s an enclosed kiddies’ pool on the south beach, and, a little further along - wahey! - a nudist zone. All beaches have toilets, changing cubicles, bars and kiosks.

Want to swim for real? Check out www.swimzg.hr Watersports Sea? Pah! You can row, sail, kayak, canoe, windsurf and dive to your heart’s content in Jarun. You can join one of the clubs if you’re already up to speed, otherwise try these helpful folks for some lessons.

Rowing: Srećko Šuk, Rowing Club Zagreb, 383 15 85 / 098 302 173 www.vsz.hr Scuba diving: Contact the Diving Club’s Instructor Lovorka Šimunec on www.dps-zagreb.hr Dry land sports As any self-respecting beach zone should, Jarun has sand volleyball courts by the little lake and on the south side, where there’s also a handball court (price 80kn/h), football pitches and a softball field (belonging to a club).

Just turn up and play. By both beaches you can also play mini golf, table tennis, skittles and boules (boćanje). The south beach also has a floodlit skate park, an arcade with billiards and air hockey, cageball, a mountain bike track and a sledging hill with a mini lift in wintertime. There’s a jumping park with all kinds of bouncy things – that’ll tire the little monsters out (finally). For more info call the Jarun info sports section on (+385-1) 303 18 88. And look at www.sportskiobjekti.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Dry cleaners & Laundries

Language Schools

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@ berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Emergency health care

Veterinary clinics

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+385-

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 193 194 9155

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs.

Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story… Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies.

Living now in his sixth countr y, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com.QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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Business directory Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel.

4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,

Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank.

Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Business directory Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-proper ty.com, w w w.zagreb-proper ty.com.

Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every ‘property’ need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www.joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

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Street register

Valentina Bunić 29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA

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26.03.2011.

Bulić - Kolman

TRAM st. u oba smjera TRAM stop - both directions TRAM st. u jednom smjeru TRAM stop - one direction Autobusni terminali BUS terminal Naziv ulice Street name

LEGENDA/LEGEND

ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC PREČKO - MAKSIMIR ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE PREČKO - BORONGAJ

TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE TRAM ROUTES

MEDVEŠČAK Gupčeva zvijezda a a a Belostenčeva IV ka a ac a čk or BRITANSKI TRG k e čk v na va ce ns k va ov ce ka ni ci ns kov va eč a ja ani va dlo i js Grškovićeva će an či j ro bi a ši d lin ko n pu ža vn n lj i t r KVATERNIKOV MANDALIČINA e u r a a a a u l u o on an ka K G R Lj D Č A B H Pe M Jo Po V A TRG g a đm tr ns AČ KAPTOL RIBNJAK 4 ULICA a in Tu ki pa INJ ič uh DUBRAVA sk VLAŠKA l . s 11 ko USP .F i D da en an 12 dr TRG BANA et an an DUBEC ov rit g 7 B Fr M Sl J.JELAČIĆA Tr Draškovićeva 5 MAKSIMIR DUBRAVA

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REGULAR TRAM SERVICES

5 17 PREČKO

Jadranska avenija

Linije broj 1 i 3 ne prometuju subotom, nedjeljom i blagdanom Routes 1 and 3 doesn`t operate on Saturday, Sunday or public holidays