Zagreb In Your Pocket No71

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB April - June 2013

Tantalise your tastebuds

Street food, open air markets and local dishes

Milling around

The watery wonderland at Rastoke

N°71 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CONTENTS

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

6

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

7

8 10

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay

18

A place to rest your weary head

Local flavour Something to tickle your tastebuds...

Dining & Nightlife

22 27

Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

35

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

36

Verdi‘s Il trovatore at the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb (Photo by Novkovic - Sofia Ameli Gojic Gaston Rivera)

What to see

37

All those things you mustn’t miss

Excursion to Rastoke

41

“Small lakes of Plitvice“

Getting around

42

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

44

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a milionare in no time

Maps & Index

A work by young designer Ana Tevšić - Nonina borsa

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street register City map City centre map Transport map Country map

47

48

50 51 52 54 55 April - June 2013

4

FOREWORD Aaaahhh, at last, spring is in the air! After a long, drawn-out winter, the sun is finally shinning, the birds are chirping, the flowers are budding and people can be seen in the city parks digging their bare feet into the cool green grass. Cafes are filled to the max with busy chit-chat and the streets are overflowing with people awaiting new adventures for the spring. This season, make sure to visit the Dolac market and try out some surprise dishes, talked about in this issue, that will have you raving to family and friends for weeks. Take a weekend off in nature and enjoy a trip to Rastoke, by Slunj, where you can visit well-preserved mills and picturesque small waterfalls, along the Slunjčica River. It’s a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the city and excellent therapy to rejuvenate the mind and soul. As well, there are a plethora of concerts to enjoy, that will suit any musical taste- Inmusic Festival, Depeche Mode and Mark Knopfler are just a few of the upcoming shows.

An Open Air Festival by Lake Jarun for Labour Day weekend, complete with a barbecue and music, is a must. Also, Zagreb will be hosting the biggest Fetish Festival in the Balkans. Come take a look and get in touch with your freaky side. Plus, many new exhibitions and art shows will be on display, including a special photograph from Milan and an exhibition from Stockholm. There’s something for every age group, so don’t waste any time getting started!

QR Code This QR code contains the website address, www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/ zagreb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone‘s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o.

Published 6 times per year

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

Estonia Russia

Latvia

Ireland

Lithuania Belarus Netherlands Poland Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo FYR Macedonia

Albania Greece

It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name.

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial

Copyright notice

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Knezić, Krešimir Šporčić, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Julien Duval Photography

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

13.4. - 29.9.2013.

13.4. - 28.9.

UPPER PPER TOWN IN THE PAST

Upper Town, Saturdays, 17:00 - 20:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

UPPER TOWN MUSICAL PANORAMA

Upper Town, St.Catherine’s Squre, Strossmayer Promenade, St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00 - 12:00 h

13.4. - 28.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Saturdays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

5.7. - 27.9.

DANCE EVENINGS - ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Fridays, 20:30 - 22:30 h

14.4. - 29.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -MAKSIMIR

13.4. - 29.9.

FOLKLORE PERFORMANCES Kaptol, Ban Jelaþiü Square and Tkalþiüeva Street, Saturdays, 10:00 - 12:00 h / Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

12.4. - 26.10.

KUMICE S DOLCA Dolac Market, Fridays and Saturdays, 8:00 - 13:00 h

27.6. - 26.9.

THE STREET OF MUSIC AND FUN Tkalþiüeva Street Thursdays and Fridays, 19:00 -23:00 h Saturdays, 11:00 -13:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD -

GUARD OF HONOUR OF THE CRAVAT REGIMENT St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 12:00 h

Maksimir Park - Belvedere, Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h from 7.7. 10:30 - 12:30 h

* In case of bad weather programs will be cancelled.

Zagreb Time Machine

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

6

ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

L

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that's open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20

National holidays

August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

Zagreb In Your Pocket

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train

By bus

January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5

minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Zagreb's train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner.

A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

More info on www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

BASICS Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you're flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must recive export approval before departure and it is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture. For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings.

In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Toilets You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse.

Let's face it, we've all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Visas EU! Here we come! Since Croatia is becoming a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe's wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987,

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian National Theatre (Photo by Veronika Santosi)

April - June 2013

7

8

HISTORY 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state.

Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communist-controlled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava.

It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”),

the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy.

Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenthcentury national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected.

2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP,HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

Are you intrigued or just want to know more about Croatian history, myths and legends? Then the Croatian Historical Museum, from April 18 until May 18 will take you on a journey - that is if you dare! This coincides with the International Day of Museums where entry to all city museums is free.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

BASICS

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

10

CULTURE & EVENTS Rock & Pop Concerts

22.05 Wednesday

26.04 Friday

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com. One of the best instrumental guitarists in rock music history, Satriani, will be returning to Croatia after seven years. Watch his skillful fingers tap and pluck away at the guitar as he shows off his great skills in legato, two-handed tapping and extreme whammy bar effects. He is a master guitarist and will leave any audience awestruck. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 200 - 220kn.

Joe Satriani

Nadeah E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Fans of Nouvelle Vague, a French cover band, may have already heard this talented young singer, Nadeah. She sang in their third album and for more than three years performed around the world. Now as a soloist, she's coming to Zagreb and will dazzle the crowds as she plays the guitar and dances across the stage. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

02.05 Thursday

Suuns E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. A quartet from Montreal, this rock band was formed in 2006, and will be promoting its new album, ‘Images du Futur.' This Canadian group was named the ‘# 1 Best New Band of 2011.' Their look and performance is full or dark and mysterious aesthetics, so be sure to dress appropriately for the occasion. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

Tickets 65 - 80kn.

05.05 Sunday

Mark Knopfler H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. One of the world's greatest guitarists is on his way to Zagreb! Knopfler, not only a British guitarist, but also singer, songwriter, record producer and film score composer will be promoting his latest album ‘Privateering.' Having received a lifetime achievement award by the British and a four-time Grammy Award winner, his new and original material is not to be missed. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 270 - 550kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

23.05 Thursday

Depeche Mode H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. If you missed them last time, then don't this time! This electronic outfit from England returns as part of their European Tour to promote their album, 'Delta Machine'. They are one of the few bands to have remained from the so called New Wave era. The have had 46 hit singles and have sold over 75 million albums. What more needs to be said? Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 350 - 500kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

25.05 Saturday

Hladno pivo D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Hladno Pivo come from the Zagreb suburb of Gajnice and is undoubtedly the country's best punk act. With almost two decades behind them they continue to top the charts with hit singles and sell-out gigs. Although remaining faithful to their punk sound, they do incorporate elements of country, metal, folk and jazz into their music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 80kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

15.06 Saturday

Whitesnake H-3, Dom Sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. British rock band, Whitesnake, founded in 1978, by David Coverdalem, will be returning to Zagreb after five years promoting their 2011 album, ‘forevermore.' In 2005, named the 85th Greatest Hard Rock Band of All Time by VH1, this is one legendary band you must see. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 199kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

23.06 Sunday

Slayer E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. An American thrash metal band from California, Slayer, rose to fame in the 1980's with the release or their hit album, 'Reign in Blood.' Alongside, wellfamed, Metallica, it's one of the biggest and most influential heavy metal bands. Having won two Grammy Awards, this band will leave your heart thumping for hours. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 220 - 250kn.

25.06 Tuesday

Down E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. A first for Croatia, one of America's most popular heavy metal supergroups, will be making its premiere performance in Zagreb. Composed of four great American Bands- Pantera, Crowbar, Corrosion of Conformity and Eyehategod, this superband will have the crowd going wild. Formed in 1991, in New Orleans, they will be performing songs from their new album, 'Down IV Part I - The Purple EP.' You'll feel the beat sizzling through your body all night long. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 140 - 160kn.

Nadeah

Zagreb In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

12

CULTURE & EVENTS Exhibitions 22.11 Thursday - 19.05 Sunday

Iso Kršnjavi - The Great Founder / Minister with a European Spirit B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr. The biography of Kršnjavi simultaneously represents the turbulent political and cultural situation that Croatia was in with regard to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His talents could not be suppressed as his path to becoming an erudite, painter, art historian and talented politician is showcased.

28.02 Thursday - 02.06 Sunday

I, Jacobus Apothecarius- from the apothecary to industry Singular Sensation 5 - The 30th Week of Contemporar y Dance (Archives - photo by Tamar Lamm)

Classical Music Concerts 07.06 Friday

Te Deum - Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra feat.

Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. The Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir was founded in 1948 and has been managed by many distinguished Croatian musicians over the years. This choir has traveled the world performing in cities, not only in Europe, but as far away as, USA, Mexico, China and South Korea. They have received numerous awards including the Vice-Chancellor Award of the University of Zagreb and the City of Zagreb Award. Your mind and ears will be soothed by the gentle sounds of the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra playing alongside this wonderful choir. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 120kn.

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. Did you know that the apothecary, Jacobus Apothecarius, was first mentioned in 1355 and is Zagreb's first pharmacist recorded in historic records? Learn about all about Jacobus and Zagreb's pharmaceutical history from the Middle Ages to the Industrial Age of mass production at this exhibition. First, start by taking a look back in time at the display of the oldest known pharmaceutical products and follow their development along with the impact that individual pharmacists had on the evolution of the city.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 27.04 Saturday

Giuseppe Verdi - The Troubadour I-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 15, www.hnk.hr. Passion, jealousy, obsession, and revenge are all the elements rooted in this tale of love and affection. Verdi portrays these ever so well with the spectacular music and exotic locations on stage.

Dramatic vocal passages convey the powerful emotions of the storyline. Oh… the things we do for love? Q Performances on: 16th, 24th May and 8th June.

Fingal 1 - Iso Kršnjavi

Dance events 25.04 Thursday - 29.04 Monday

Platforma.hr Jedinstvo Factory, Trnjanski nasip bb; Zrinjevac Park; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magovca 50, davorka@tala.hr, www.tala.hr. Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups that unite to present their experiences, ideas and individual dance approaches through shows, workshops and lectures.

Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and greet of the regional dance scene.

30.05 Thursday - 02.06 Sunday

The 30th Week of Contemporary Dance

David Peros - Animafest Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Various locations across Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 464 11 54, www.danceweekfestival.com.

Labelled as one of the largest festivals of its type in the region and it proudly holds the longest tradition in Croatia! It’s a melting pot for both local and international performers and is often a stepping stone for dance artists wishing to gain international exposure.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CULTURE & EVENTS

23.03 Saturday - 07.07 Sunday

16.04 Tuesday - 09.06 Sunday

Master Pieces from the Picasso Museum

Acquisitions of MUO- From the Past to the Future 2003- 2013

C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. What a ‘bellissimo' treat for all art lovers! Fifty-six paintings and sculptures, as well as forty photos arrive from the Picasso Museum in Paris, one of the biggest Picasso art collections in the world. The exhibition will give visitors a glimpse into the artists' magnificent art work as well as life.

04.04 Thursday - 02.06 Sunday

A Palace and a Museum - Life from the 19th to the 21st Century C-2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Take a look at some of the important moments throughout the history of the Archaeological Museum itself and the Vranyczany-Dobrinović Palace and their coexistence during the last six decades. This exhibition will have the curious historian engulfed in a wide range of interesting, but largely unknown, past events which will extend throughout the entire building.

04.04 Thursday - 19.05 Sunday

The Aftermath- Changing Cultural Landscapes C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, info@galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Don't miss out on this extraordinary exhibition of photography, which follows the change and development of former Yugoslavia after its breakup (1991-2001). The photographs have been reviewed by teams from all over the area - Ljubljana, Zagreb, Sarajevo, Pristine, Cetinje, Belgrade and Skopje and have worked together to document the political, social, economic and cultural changes of the region over the last 20 years. It's a real eye-opener on the existence of similar nations, each with a dynamic and varied history.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@ muo.hr, www.muo.hr. Don't miss out on this wonderful opportunity to check out the massive art collection which has been acquired, over the last decade, by the Museum of Arts and Crafts (MUO). The display will include several hundred of the best pieces from a collection of over 10,000 works of art!

Interestingly, a great deal of the collection was obtained as donations from citizens and the rest was financed by the City of Zagreb and the Ministry of Culture. This exhibition will hopefully encourage future donors to recognize the value of preserving Croatian cultural heritage and is a great way for travelers to experience Croatian traditions.

16.04 Tuesday - 26.05 Sunday

Kuzma Kovačić - Retrospective C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1. The name Kovačić and sculpting go ‘hand in hand'! And it is in this man's hands that over 100 sculptures, artefacts, installations and reliefs of the highest degree have been produced over a 30 year career.

His upbringing along the Mediterranean is an inspiration to his works which are made of bronze, wood, glass, aluminium and other materials. Witness modernism with a soul!

16.04 Tuesday - 16.06 Sunday

Milles at Meštrović B/C-1, Meštorvić Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.

This exhibition will feature one of the most famous Swedish sculptors from the 20th century, Carl Milles. Famed for having made several monuments and fountains throughout the United States, such as in Michigan, Minnesota and Virginia, he crossed paths on several occasions with Croatia's very own famous

April - June 2013

13

14

CULTURE & EVENTS

INmusic Festival Archives (Photo by Pieter Morlion) sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. They even jointly participated in a traveling exhibition throughout America,‘Modern European Sculpture,' from 1927-1928. Now, Milles and Meštrović will meet once again, as his exhibit from Stockholm will be brought to Meštrović's atelier, in Zagreb.

09.05 Thursday - 23.05 Thursday

Depeche Mode - Fan Exhibition C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, info@galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. This exhibition, held in only three cities- Berlin, Budapest and Zagreb- will display more than a hundred rare memorabilia, which will include, early demos, concert posters, photographs, awards, personal belongings of the band members and much, much more. Fans can also become part of the exhibition by sending in their memorabilia online to fan4fan.com from April 10th-23rd. An international jury will select the top five memorabilia from Croatian fans and will be added to the Burmeister Collection exhibited at Klovićevi Dvori, in Zagreb, from May 9th-23rd.

The winners will not only recieve the opportunity to attend the Depeche Mode concert on May 23rd, but will also get the chance to meet the legendary band members.

Josip Vaništa

Caravaggio - Supper at Emmaus B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@ muo.hr, www.muo.hr. Italy is welcoming Croatia to the EU, by displaying Caravaggio's masterpiece, 'Supper at Emmaus,' at the Arts and Crafts Museum for three months. An event on the same magnitude as if the French loaned out the Mona Lisa. Don't miss out seeing this spectacular painting by the famed Italian artist rumored to have died from lead poisoning, due to the high volume of lead in his paints.

Special events 13.04 Saturday - 30.09 Monday

The Changing of the Guard B/C-1 Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats' joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection'. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

13.04 Saturday - 28.09 Saturday

25.04 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday

Abolition of Retrospective

05.06 Wednesday - 31.08 Saturday

J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www. msu.hr. Did you know that Croatian artist, Josip Vaništa, is known as one of the last great neo-avant-garde artists? Internationally, he is mostly recognized by his work on the cult art group Gorgona (1961-1966). More than 200 of his paintings, drawings, collages and letters will be displayed at this exhibition. Come and see for yourself what all the hype is about.

The Zagreb Time Machine Dolac, Ban Josip Jelačić Square, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

Lost the beat? zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CULTURE & EVENTS 25.04 Thursday - 12.05 Sunday

19.05 Sunday - 25.05 Saturday

The 15th Saint Mark's Festival

The Zagreb Jewish Film Festival

St Mark's Church, Trg svetog Marka 5; St Franjo Church, Kaptol 9; Golden Hall of the Croatian History Institute, Opatička 10, festival-sv-marka@zg.t-com.hr, www.festivalsvmarka.hr. Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at various venues and churches in the city's Upper and Lower Town.

B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, info@jff-zagreb.hr, www.jff-zagreb.hr. It isn't Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film festival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes and culture. It's steered by the festival's president and double Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for venue and session details!

04.05 Saturday - 18.05 Saturday

6th Subversive Film Festival Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, Grič Cinema, Jurišićeva 6, info@subversivefestival.com, www.subversivefestival.com. For the 6th Subversive Film Festival in Zagreb, special guest, famous director, Oliver Stone, will be coming to Zagreb. His triple Oscar-winning documentary series, ‘The Untold History of the United States,’ will be presented along with numerous other films and notable guests, such as Silvia Federici, Chantal Mouffe, Bernard Stiegler, Maurizio Lazzarato, Yanis Varoufakis, Franco Bernardi Bifo, Tariq Ali, Erik O. Wright, Costas Douzinas This year’s festival topic is the Utopia of Democracy.

04.05 Saturday - 05.05 Sunday

Zagreb Adventure Festival G-4/5, Jarun Lake, www.adventurefestival.com.hr. Need to get out of the city a bit and take a break from the loud blasts of honking horns and screams of angry drivers that almost run you over as you try and cross the street? Then Zagreb Adventure Festival is the perfect outlet to get back in touch with Mother Nature. The aim of this festival is to motivate people to enjoy nature and the numerous sports activities it offers, such as bike riding, climbing, kite flying, scuba diving and even a hot air balloon ride. There will also be a fair for sports equipment stores and team sports competitions between various companies. The freshness and tranquility of nature will help sooth your soul from the stresses of city life.

21.05 Tuesday - 23.05 Thursday

The 12th Festival of Equal Opportunities C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.dti.hr. When walking by the main square this May you may see a Sign Language class being held on the streets. This is part of the Festival of Equal Opportunities, which strives to promote social awareness and equality for people with disabilities through music, drama and visual arts. More than 600 individuals with disabilities will perform in musical, theatrical and sports programs combined with popular performing artists. Everyone is invited to join in all the fun.

24.05 Friday - 26.05 Sunday

We Will Rock You- the Musical by Queen and Ben Elton H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. We Will Rock You is stopping to perform in Zagreb during its 10th Anniversary Tour. Based on songs by Queen and a book by Ben Elton, the musical tells the story of a distant future in which everyone dresses, thinks and acts the same. One group of Bohemians, rebel against society and struggle to restore original thoughts, fashion, and live music. During this time period, musical instruments and composers are forbidden, and rock music is unknown. This must-see show will blow you away and leave you breathless wanting to see it again and again. Q Tickets 175 - 800kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

10.05 Friday - 12.05 Sunday

Brazilactica www.amazonas.hr/brazilactica/. Calling all Brazil lovers!

Don't miss out on the 3rd Festival of Brazilian Culture held in Zagreb this May for only 2 days. Explore the beautiful traditions of Brazilian music, dance and food. This wonderful event includes-samba workshops, great parties with an ice-cold caipirinha, which is Brazil's national cocktail, breathtaking capoeira, a form of martial arts and stunning afro-brazilian dances. Get in touch with all that Brazilian culture has to offer and come shake up a storm!

15.05 Wednesday - 23.09 Monday

Strossmartre - The 13th Summer on Stross B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www.ljetonastrosu.com. Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you'll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

18.05 Saturday

International Museum Day www.mdc.hr. The Museum Documentation Centre (MDC) alongside many Croatian museums will organise over 200 different events, exhibitions, workshops, lectures and concerts.

So if you love your fair share of history and art come and celebrate with the city of Zagreb.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Milles at Meštrović - Meštrović Atelier archives

April - June 2013

15

16

CULTURE & EVENTS

INmusic Festival Archives (Photo by Julien Duval Photography)

29.05 Wednesday - 02.06 Sunday

The 48th Floraart International Flower Exhibition J-4, Bundek Lake, www.floraart.net. We are quite proud of our horticultural heritage as various public events relating to flora and fauna first began in 1891. Over time, the city has blossomed with a tradition of medieval gardens including Maksimir Park and the Botanical Gardens. See the website for all your floral particulars.

31.05 Friday - 16.06 Sunday

Screen on the Green Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana, Maksimir Park, Jarun lake, info@ viasolis.hr, www.screen.com.hr. The popular green screen phenomenon happening in cities around the world has finally come to Zagreb. The Open Air Festival of Films will take place in the most popular parks around the city. Film screenings are free of charge and visitors can enjoy some of the most famous films from around the world. So, pick up a blanket and some snacks and come lounge in the park with your loved ones.

Watch a movie under the stars for a unique, new experience.

04.06 Tuesday - 09.06 Sunday

World Festival of Animated Film - Animafest Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Cineplexx Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, info@ animafest.hr, www.animafest.hr. Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world animations.

With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy of animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it's a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in the field.

05.06 Wednesday - 12.06 Wednesday

Cest is d' best C-1, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, Cvjetni trg, www.cestisdbest.com. Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the audience that gets involved and participates.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

11.06 Tuesday - 15.06 Saturday

Accordion Fest in Zagreb C-2, Zrinjevac Park. Five world famous accordionists, along with pupils, students, duets and orchestras, all who are lovers of the accordion, will play at Zrinjevac for five days. Come and get your polka on and be serenaded at this spectacular event.

14.06 Friday - 16.06 Sunday

D Day (Design day) E-4, TŽV Gredelj, Strojarska bb, www.dan-d.info. How divine is DDD Design? Creative thinkers, this international festival of design presents numerous regional designers working in the area of industrial design, self-initiated and pre-ordered designs, visual and fashion design and more.

It includes lectures by international experts, commercial D market, a D party, presentations, film screenings, and designer workshops.

24.06 Monday - 26.06 Wednesday

INmusic Festival G-4, Jarun Lake, Otok hrvatske mladeži, www.inmusicfestival.com. Grab a friend and come out to Lake Jarun to experience some incredible musical artists for 2 days at the Inmusic Festival. Bands featured this year include- Stealing Sheep, Arctic Monkeys, Iggy and the Stooges, Basement Jaxx, Bloc Party, Editors, NOFX, Airbourne and many more.

The theme of this year's festival is, ‘Multiculturalism in Music,' and emphasizes the impact of non-western music on modern pop culture. A Musical Exhibition will be on display to show off unknown and new musical expressions from different cultures.

Guests can even choose to camp out for 7 days on the Island of Youth from June 21st to June 28th. This festival will leave you rocking all night long and is a great way to kick off your summer! Q Festival ticket 399kn. Camping ticket 150kn.

28.06 Friday - 29.06 Saturday

Bestiarum I-4, Jedinstvo Factory, Trnjanski nasip bb, festival@ cirkus.hr, www.cirkus.hr. Launched in Zagreb, in June 2012, Bestiarum is the largest fetish event in the Balkans.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CULTURE & EVENTS Lasting two days this year, the Fetish Festival will combine urban music, attractive performances, provocative exhibitions and a film program. But, 'shhhhh,' the events of this program are still kept on the down low, however rumor has it it'll be two unforgettable nights. Expect to see a special prison complex, which extends to more than a thousand square meters, an exhibition on devices known from the Inquisition, and a carefully concealed private BDSM chamber, where visitors themselves can test the limits of their imagination.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you'll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Cr oatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava

fašizma bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by preeminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purposebuilt in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you'll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 10:00-20:00.U

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića

23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www. lauba.hr. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

during its life cycle. The house is alive from morning to night.

During office hours it's home to the company employees.

From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it's a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction.

Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called "200 Years of Croatian Art" - that's just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed!

A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it's been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project's original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world's metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

April - June 2013

17

18

WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb.com.

Everything you'd expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they're in town.

Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Dogs weighing up to 20 kg are free of charge whereas all other pets (including dogs) come at a cost of 30€ per day.

Q306 rooms (254 doubles €112-165, 28 suites €182-300, 23 Executive Rooms €137-190, 1 Presidential Suite €11001500). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin. zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com.

Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It's majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €120 - 165, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €170 - 215, 1 Presidential Suite €1200-1500, 19 Executive Suites €255 - 300, 2 Delux Suites €555 - 600).

PZOTJHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www. arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations.

Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment.

Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €90 - 116, 142 doubles €99 - 124, 4 suites €133 - 250).

PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE

BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb's most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available.

Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR 6ULGKW hhhh Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb J-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com. Located in Zagreb's business district, it's only a few kilometers from the city center. Decorated in a sleek and modern style, this chic hotel has 152 guestrooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking a spectacular panoramic view of the city. During your stay, get your heart rate up at the fitness center or just kick back your feet and relax at the indoor pool and sauna. For a quick fix on any shop-a-holic urges, Green Gold Shopping Center is located nearby, along with plenty of restaurants to satisfy your food cravings. Pets allowed.

Breakfast included. Parking 15 €. Q152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHA R6UFLGDCwW Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLG BKXW hhhh Hotel International C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 88 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international.hr. This elegantlydesigned hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (177 doubles €130, 8 triples €209, 1 suite €232, 20 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). POTHAR6U FLGKDwW hhhh

Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel.

(+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info@ esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele.

Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 35€/day. Breakfast not included; 24€/ person.

Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €119 - 194, 48 Delux Rooms €138 - 178, 13 Delux Suite €209 - 249, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHAR6UIFLEGB KDW hhhhh

April - June 2013

19

20

WHERE TO STAY Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it's the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you'll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant.

Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg.

Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes' walk away.

Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (50 singles €115, 66 doubles €130, 3 suites €265, 4 Junior Suites €200).

PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+3851) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr.

Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone's throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren't too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you'll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €55 - 70, 83 doubles €66 - 80, 15 triples €90, 6 suites €100 - 120).

PJHA6UIFGBKDXW hhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Budget Jägerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www. hotel-jagerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you're right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side.

The hotel's restaurant specializes in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127).

PJA6ILGBKXW hhh

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb's Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 - 118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh.hr, www. sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). THA6UFG BKDCW hhh

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHERE TO STAY Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Zagreb Point Apartments C-4, Miramarska cesta 15b, tel. (+385-) 099 562 24 85, zagrebapartment@ gmail.com, www.zagrebpoint.com.

Coming to the capital! Then we have serviced apartments that go beyond your average accommodation offer. Fully furnished and in pristine conditions, choose from location to the centre, WIFI, air-conditioning, cable TV, bike rentals, equipped kitchens and much more. Every need can be met and all at reasonable prices. Also at I-3, II.Vrbik 14 and H-3, Selska cesta 34. Q3 rooms (3 apartments €50 - 115). PTBW

Hostels Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www.fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhood-style courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 26 dorm beds, 12 - 20€ per person. PJNGW Hostel Arena H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+3851) 642 19 50, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostel. arena@zgh.hr, www.nazor.hr. Set in the RemetinecLanište district, this hostel is a stone’s throw from Arena Zagreb. It accommodates individuals and groups, has its own restaurant and car park too. Public transport (bus/ tram) are close by and you are a mere15 minutes from the city centre. Q 261 dorm beds, 127 - 195kn per person.

ALGBKXW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor.

The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there‘s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there‘s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person.

JARUGW

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

April - June 2013

21

22

LOCAL FLAVOUR Food Markets

Culinary events 01.05 Wednesday

1st Barbecue Festival Jarun Lake. This Barbecue Festival is a first for Zagreb and will be displaying the best of the region’s gastronomic offers when it comes to barbecue, with particular emphasis on healthy eating. Along with the food being served, local bands will be performing and movies will be shown on a big screen. For children, a large amusement park will be running for five days. Come join in on all the fun and satisfy your taste buds this Labour Day by taking a trip to Jarun Lake!

08.05 Wednesday - 12.05 Sunday

Festival of Desserts in Zrinjevac

C-2/3, Zrinjevac Park. Satisfy your sweet tooth this spring in Zrinjevac Park by trying out some delectable pastries and cakes offered by the best Dessert Shops in town. Keep an eye out for Vincek, Piece of Cake, Amelie and many more as you stroll through the park or lounge on the green grass basking in the sunshine. Of course, no festival is complete without some live music and dancing. Visitors can enjoy some jazz and traditional Croatian klape groups as they munch on their sweets. This event is so delicious that your mouth will be watering all week.

11.05 Saturday & 25.05 Saturday

The Little Market in the Attic

I-2, Sinkovićeva 8, sjediijedi.tportal.hr. Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market in the Attic (Mali plac na tavanu) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Literally held in the attic of Jelena Nikolić, a food stylist and blogger, the market is open once a month and you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, ecofriendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won't want to miss the farmers' markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you'll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. The charms of openair markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you're here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you're not short-changed or given spoiled produce?

Don't be fooled into thinking that just because this is an openair market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It's travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city's markets they've earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it's spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That's a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn't raised on artificial substrate so it's full of flavour. With a bit of luck it's not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they're smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that's a trick to add weight on the scales). The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it's one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it's full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It's fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you're a vegetarian, you'll want to avoid the meat section where you'll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it's a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children ever y where, offal. Poten tiall y even more off-pu tting is th e dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area wi th an unmistakeably milk y aroma. Th ere rows of ladies invite you to taste t h e i r wa r e s , a n d w e strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (sviježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with papr ika, nettle, herbs or made wi th goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

LOCAL FLAVOUR Meet Ana Tevšić!

ZIYP: Ana, can you tell our readers, in brief, about yourself? Who is Ana Tevšić?

AT: My name is Ana Tevšić. I was born in Pula, but I live and work in Zagreb as a product designer. I run a studio with the brand name ‘’-Love, Ana’’ under which I produce numerous products related to interior decorating.

ZIYP: Ana, in this issue of Zagreb IYP, we are presenting food to our guests and are writing about our markets.

You’ve made an excellent series of ‘household merchandise.’ Tell us about your products.

AT: Of course! Actually when I look at it, a large number of my projects are tied to the kitchen. I love to cook and experiment, therefore it is always interesting for me to make new products related to cooking. First, I would like to mention the project, “Nonina borša” (Nona’s legacy kit), which consists of frocks for cooks (a dress instead of an apron and a headscarf) and boards on which are engraved recipes for making homemade pasta and desserts. Other than that, in my offers one can find the series “Rollercoasters,” coasters for glasses, cups, plates and pots. They are made of plastic-covered rubber and are therefore highly resistant and suitable for heavy-duty use. One can choose from a colourful series with various patterns, or with Istrian sayings that are related to food. My latest project is called PUU, which in Finnish means wood/wooden, and refers to a set of five geometric wooden trays for serving food.

ZIYP: Can you give one ‘insider tip’ to our readers? What makes you happy in Zagreb?

AT: Zagreb is a city that is neither too large nor too small.

I love it because it has a wide range of interesting places for young people, the right dose of nature, and because everything is within walking distance. A lot of sweet shops and dessert cafes around the center, tucked-away terraces in the city where one can enjoy the peace, and from the main square one can, within ten minutes, get lost in deep greenery. All this makes a charming small metropolis.

A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.

Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usu-

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

ally gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.

At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys.

Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.

Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer.

As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible.

Dolac Milkmaid

April - June 2013

23

ZAGREB COUNTY GASTRO EVENTS 02. 05. - 05. 05. Traditional Carp Cup, Zaprešić

07. 09. Something fishy!, Sveta Nedelja

A cultural event dedicated to greblice, a salt cake, made of cheese and walnuts, which dates back to the 19th Century and was fed to the local miners as their only meal during their working hours.

A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test! Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel. (+385-1) 337 39 19, info@svetanedelja. hr, www.svetanedelja.hr.

23.08. - 25.08 What our Elders Ate, Vrbovec

Listopad, Štruklijada, Marija Gorica

Three full days of a sports fishing competition to determine who can catch the largest carp which is released back into the lake after weighing.

05.07. - 07. 07. Days of rudarska greblica, Samobor

Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an iim an important mp m por orrttaant ntt pa p part art off local loccall and lo nd d national natio na natio t nal naal identity. n id dentity ent ntity ittyy. Th Thee festival feeesst fes sti ttiv iival al Kaj Kaj jeli naši stari (“What our folks ssu u je eelli naš n aššii st aši tari ari ((“ ar “W Wha haat o urr ffol lks ks used usseed to use to eat”) eat at” t ) is is a celebration celleb ce ebrat ration ra io ion on on of tth of the he fo he ffoods ood ods d of th the he Vrbo V Vrbovec r ve rbo vec e re rregion egi gio i n east ion east sstt of Za Z Zagreb. aggre reeb. reb b. A p proro roogramme g amme gra gr m off workshops mm wo w ork rrks kksshop ps shows show ho ows you ow yo ou u how to to mak make akke these th hes he e e tasty ese taast stty ggoodies, ood dies ies, aass w ie well ell el lll as d as dem de demonstrating eem mo ons on nsstra n stra ttrra ratti tin iin ng llocal occa oca o cal ccraft raaft raft aft ftss aand nd mo m mor more, ore, o e, aan and n nd d th tthere’s heere errree’ss a b brilliant ril rri iillllia liiiaant nt pr p pro programme rogr ggra rraamm mme mee of m of entertainment entter en teer ertai taaaiin nme nm me men ntt traditional iincluding inc in nc nclud lu udiing ud in ngg ttr n raditi aadi ad diitti d tio ional io naal games n gaam meeess mes packed and aan n nd dap pac pa acked ked ke ed programme progr pr ogggrraam o amm mme mm of music. of mu mus mu ussic. ic. ic c. For For more Fo mo ore or re re info info in fo www.tz-vrbovec.hr see sse ee www w ww ww w..tz tz-v tz -vr vrbov vr bovec. ec h ec hrr or co or con contact on o nta tac aacct tthe hee Vr h V Vrb Vrbovec rbov ove vvec Tou To T Tourist ourris ou is ist st Board, Boar Boar aarrd, ard, d, Trg Trgg Tr Pet P Petra eettra ra Zri Z Zr Zrinskog rinsk nskog kog og 7aa,, Vrbovec, 7a, Vrb Vr bov ovvec, ec, tel. ec teel. l. (+385-1) ((+3 +38 +3 85--1) 1) 2 279 27 79 16 79 6 61 661,, ttzvrbovec@tzzz.hr. tzv zzvvrbo r vve vec e @ ec @tt zz. @tz zz.hr. zz hrr. hr hr.

07. 09. Festival of Desserts- “Kriški oblizeki”, Križ This trad traditional aditional festival ad of Desserts Desser erts is a er even ven ent for en for charity event children, taking place since 1994 at which reecipes from re recipes traditional tradit ition it i al cakes are ree presented and an nd an awardwinning cake is chosen.

Held in front of the parish church of Marija Gorica, struH d dels, homemade pasta with cabbage, roast pork, chestnuts aand wine tastes are enjoyed alongside music.

113. 10. Zelina Chestnut Festival, Kladeščica Make the most of the autumn days in the leafy hills M aaround Sveti Ivan Zelina, and don’t miss out on fresh roast cchestnuts this year. After an easy hike to the Kladeščica hiking hut you’ll find a merry throng picking and roasting h cchestnuts. Fresh grape is laid on to quench your thirst and delicious, locally-produced nibbles will keep you going d until the chestnuts are done! Sveti Ivan Zelina Tourist u Association and Museum, tel. 206 15 44, muzej@zelina.

A hr , www.tz-zelina.hr , www.zelingrad.hr. h

1 19.10.

- 20. 10. Days of Portugizac - The Wine of P Plešivica, Jastrebarsko Are you a connoisseur of wine? Then why not fancy A a glass of Portugizac, a young red wine made of blue Portuguese grapevine variety. It is traditionally grown in P tthe Plešivica region and locals will tell you it goes down well with roasted goose and other traditional meals. This w ttime-honoured event is housed at Boćarski dom and is a ssymbol of autumn in our city.

119.10. - 20. 10. 9th Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić-Grad A festival where you’ll have the chance to sample and buy a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There’ll be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by b ccarriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibiw ttions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in IIvanić-Grad – and you’re most welcome to join in the fun!

IIvanić-Grad Tourist Association, tel. 288 15 91, info@ ttzig.hr , www.tzig.hr.

331. 10. Days of Bread-the fruits of the earth, Krašić To give thanks to the ‘fruits of the earth’ many pilgrims will come and enjoy the numerous types of bread, pastries, fruits, and homemade jams that will be blessed after mass.

08.11. – 11.11. St Martin’s Days (Martinje)

Sour Cabbage Laktec

In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed bishop.

Martinje is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo.

Zagreb County Tourist Association, tel. 487 36 65, info@tzzz. hr , www.tzzz.hr.

Traditionally made fermented sour cabbage, rich in minerals and vitamin C, is salted with no extra additives, and is full of flavours.

Apple Cider Vinegar Drops for Health One of the oldest homemade medical remedies, it is made from homegrown apples and is rich in mineral, especially potassium.

Sunčana- Domestic and High-Quality ty 30.11. Apple Days, Velika Gorica The most delicious apples of 2013 will be exhibited and sold by local farmers of apples and other fruit products.

30. 11. Gastro Turopolja, Velika Gorica A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its environs.

Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture. As you drive around, you’ll find a whole host of specialities and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the local pubs and restaurants.

Velika Gorica Tourist Association, tel. 622 23 78, tzvg@tzvg. hr , www.tzvg.hr.

15.12. Honey Days, Jastrebarsko Beekeepers will be able to display their honey for sale during the Honey Days in Jastebersko and showoff the best they have to offer.

Marked Dishes of Zagreb County- Memories from around the table.

These traditional Zagreb county dishes were identified to n and nd n d off offer er llo occal ocal caal al preserve the gastronomic culture of this region local go gorje gor o jee str sst trruck uckkle lle, ee,, specialities which include Samobar salami, Zagorje struckle, stuffed saurekraut and many more.

Grof- Real Homemade Ham Grof ham is salted and smoked, using traditiona naa processing methods, which creates the perfect blend of salty and fresh flavours.

Culinary Delight - Samobor Salami Homemade and all-natural, this salami, produced in a traditional manner with high-quality ty meat is full of natural spices and an authentic salty alty taste.

Dried Cheese Dragac, the smell and taste of tradition at your our table High-quality smoked natural cheese full of additional ditional flavours avourrs of garlic, bell peppers and green peppers is perfect as an appetizer with cold cuts and red wine.

Portugizac Plešivica – the first young wine in Croatia A young dry red wine made from blue Portuguese grapevines, s, it is grown in the Plešivica region and is traditionally drunk in n autumn in Zagreb.

Kraljevina Zelina- Kraljevski Pleasures This light refreshing dry white wine made from grapes mostlyy in the Sveti Ivan Zelina region was even enjoyed by Ludwig van Beethoven.

Produced in northwestern Croatia, these essee ese apples are grown in the best region and d are recommened as a daily source of natural vitamines and minerals to regulate ulate ulate ul tee body weight and cholesterol and stimulate ula laatee metabolism.

Kriško- satisfaction and health in a slice of cheese A hard cheese produced from fresh cow’s w’’s w’s w milk in the Zagreb County area, it is mamaa-tured for at least 60 days under controlled lle lle ll led conditions for high-quality results.

Homemade Corn Polenta- Croatian Traditional Cuisine Specialty Homemade corn polenta, a traditionall food from the Zagreb county region, iss manufactured with carefully selected corn grown on family farms and contains ains ns n many minerals and vitamins.

26

LOCAL FLAVOUR Then there’s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that’s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk.

Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy.

You can try these foods in Zagreb’s traditional-style restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you’d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locally-reared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

Street Food Street food has become a hit in the big cities of countries such as the US and UK in recent years, but the trend of serving high-quality cuisine in ad-hoc locations hasn’t quite taken off yet in Zagreb. Perhaps the closest you’ll get is a little zalogajnica - a simple and quick restaurant for workers usually serving just a few dishes during the day.

Burek making at Dolac A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro.

The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more.

So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

Local Dishes Here in Zagreb we’re at the crossroads of a number of culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the AustroHungarian Empire so it’s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you’ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter.

Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals.

But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples.

Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there’s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn’t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions.

S om ethin g you mi gh t fin d on lun ch tim e m enus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak. This is an all-in-one meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

However, there are types of food which have become widely available which are eaten on the move and are worth sampling.

Burek is a filo-pastry pie with a variety of fillings that is traditionally from Bosnia but is almost ubiquitous in Croatia. You can buy it in most bakeries where it can tend to the dry side; a better bet is a small piterija restaurant or fast food spots (sometimes found at markets) that only serves burek. The meat (meso) and cheese (sir) versions are most widespread, but if you find potato (krumpir), pumpkin (buće), marrow (tikvica), spinach / chard (zeljanica) or apple (jabuka) you should certainly give them a try.

Another oriental-inspired dish that’s a firm favourite is ćevapi - fried fingers of seasoned mince served in a bread roll, best eaten with raw onion for the full effect. Fried fish is another budget option: a plate of fried small fish (girice, papaline), or squid rings will set you back just 15kn from the little kiosk by the entrance to the market at Trešnjevka, for example. For 5kn more you get a glass of wine too! Bargain.

There are plenty of places selling sandwiches which are really tasty served warm (topli sendvič). One of the best is Bonita on Cvjetni trg, which also sells pancakes. Close by on Varšavska, Wok by Matija serves a range of healthy Asian dishes on the fly, including vegetarian; and in Petrićeva ulica Patto Gusto serves quick pasta dishes with a choice of sauces.

A healthy snack you can find on Cvjetni trg and Ilica is boiled or roast sweetcorn in late summer and roast chestnuts in autumn. And the sweet tooths among you should head for Tkalčićeva ulica where little mobile kiosks sell fritule (like miniature doughnuts) or you can satisfy your sugar craving in a pancake parlour.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke' style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine.

Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica's cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it's great news that they've opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (68 - 130kn). PTAGB Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika.hr.

Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it's easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 130kn). PJAGBW

K pivovari H-3, Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 375 18 08, info@

kpivovari.com, www.kpivovari.com. A Zagreb institution since 1893. The name means “At the Brewery”, because, beer-loving friends, the restaurant is part of the Ožujsko brewery! Traditional Croatian food, including light snacks, and oceans of the foaming stuff, both local and foreign. Catering facilities for large groups and conferences. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (30 - 90kn).

PALGBXW Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). ALEGBW Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won't regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it's especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

April - June 2013

27

28

RESTAURANTS International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This 'oasis of enlightened hedonism' is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu's tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 130kn). PAGW Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig' mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com. Zinfandels, named after California's most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW

Chic & Cheerful Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a

napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). B Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail. com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically Frenchstyle bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to Bistro Tri Praščića any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB Cušpajz C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50 45. Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you’ll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40. Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and 19:00 - 23:00). QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNB Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (15 - 75kn). PJNGW

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS Pizza Baschiera H-4, Selska cesta 215, tel. (+385-1) 369

89 99, www.baschiera.hr. Close to Jarun, it used to be the favourite pizza locale. The pastel turquoise and orange seems to take seven years off your life and will have you saying inappropriate and immature things in no time. Youngsters love it. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.

(38 - 70kn). PAGBSW Duksa K-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, duksa.pizza@gmail.com. It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top.

So we’re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”).

Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn). PAGBW Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16.

With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB Pizzeria 6 J-3, Medulićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 484 62 48/(+385-1) 484 65 62, www.pizzeria6.hr. Apart from crusty pizzas and tempting pasta dishes, they also do fried and grilled fish, including papaline and gavuni, which are deep-fried little fishies to be munched whole, a great snack for as little as 15kn. A good place to go as well for a plate salad. Delivery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (32 70kn). PAGS

Seafood Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights.

The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 130kn). PJALGBW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

PARGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

April - June 2013

29

30

RESTAURANTS Ethnic Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1)

484 12 18, asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square.

There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 125kn). PAGB Bazaar K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 798 05 22, info@restaurant-bazaar.com, www.restaurant-bazaar.com. Jump off the tram at Maksimirska and dive into Zagreb’s own Arabic dining oasis for one-of-a-kind blends of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asia Indian cuisine. Let your senses rest awash in the dozens of spices enveloping each lamb and lentil delight. Ask your server for fresh flat bread and a delicate fruit or honey desert. Hugely popular for their cafeteria-style lunches, reservations are recommended. QOpen . Closed Mon. (25 - 85kn). PAVSW Delizie Libanesi J-3 Radnička cesta 48, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 39, info@delizie-libanesi.com, www.delizielibanesi.com. For centuries, the Lebanese have travelled around the world sharing their amazing cuisine. Now, they have finally come to Zagreb. Enjoy some authentic hummus or baba ghanouj appetizer followed by kafta or shish taouk meat and delight your palate in an explosion of flavours. Decorated in a simple but classy style, the white walls adorned with oriental rugs create the perfect atmosphere for meals and special events, like belly dancing! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (75 - 120kn). PAGBW Islamic Cultural Center Restaurant K-4, Gavellina 40, tel. (+385-1) 613 71 59/(+385-1) 613 71 62, info@ islamska-zajednica.hr, www.islamska-zajednica.hr. While taking a look at the architecturally impressive Islamic Cultural Center, step just around the corner and grab a bite at the restaurant that’s part of the complex. There’s a large, airy patio with plenty of outdoor seating that overlooks gardens and greenhouses and offers a peak at the Medvednica mountain, plus another spacious dining room inside. The menu is full of Croatian favorites like ćevapčići and burek and other Balkan specialties. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (10 - 80kn). PGB Jazz.ba Chevap B-2, Varšavska 8, tel. (+385-) 091 955 50 01, www.jazzbachevap.com. Now you can enjoy the tastes and smells of Sarajevo in the center of Zagreb. Famed as the city where the east meets the west, Sarajevo’s delicious kitchen made its culinary mark by combining Austrian, Hungarian, Italian and Turkish dishes. Try out some Sarajevski chevapi with a side of ajvar or kajmak. To satisfy your sweet spot, have a piece of Bosnian baklava or tufahija, that will simply melt in your mouth. Sit back and enjoy your meal at a copper covered table in a spacious, arched alcove. Hardwood floors with throw rugs and pictures of Sarajevo give a warm and homey feel. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (12 - 45kn).

Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. Very authentic, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALEGW Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. (+385-1) 618 76 18, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of Radnička and Vukovarska, this Chinese restaurant is pleasently clean and bright.The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 130kn). PALGB Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try.

First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun Asia 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). PAG

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS

Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGW Ribice i tri točkice C-2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 68, info@ribiceitritockice.hr, www. ribiceitritockice.hr. With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.

In a rush? Just down the sidewalk toward Cvjetni Trg is their take-away stand with a similarly fish-filled array of offerings.

QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (28 - 80kn). PA6S

Green Point C-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67, www.green-point.hr. Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot. ‘Green is in’ even in Zagreb and satisfies your urges for happy, healthy, dine-and-dash choices. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (15-30kn). AW

Vege Corner Elixir Raw Food Club D-1, Ribnjak 8/III, tel. (+385)091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood.com, www.artofrawfood. com. The first thing to note is that this is a members club, not a restaurant, so you will need to call ahead in order to reserve your table; membership will be taken care of once you arrive. Everything on offer is naturally prepared, with no preservatives, and indeed no actual cooking. Staff will be more than happy to recommend something to your taste, and certainly the menu is quite varied and unique for Zagreb. For the less adventurous there are eminently palatable snacks and drinks which even the most devout carnivore will enjoy.

QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Jarun Picnic Festival - The Barbecue Festival

April - June 2013

31

32

RESTAURANTS Small plates and sweet treats

The Cookie Factory

Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84

49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. PGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. Also at Barčev trg 16 (J-5, Utrina), tel. (+3851) 669 88 88. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

PTJNGB Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385 -1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. NGBW Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. They make homemade bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1)369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh

cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. PNGW Šime D-3, Petrinjska 61, tel. (+385-1) 481 94 40, slasticarnica.sime@gmail.com, www.slasticarnicasime.hr. Around the corner from central train station is Šime, a recently redecorated café and dessert shop. The view from the giant terrace will keep you entertained as you lick away. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. (3 - 15kn). PNGB The Cookie Factory C-1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 01/(+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@ cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr. Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. PJAGBW

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS Mighty fine wine Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 35

93, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 02:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 110kn).

PALGBW Speakeasy C-2, Bogovićeva 4 (Neboder Passage).

You would be forgiven for thinking it bigger than it is at first sight, but this is on account of some wonderfully positioned mirrors which somehow give you the sense of the era of prohibition, helped in no small part by the presence of a basement section. This particular Speakeasy is a welcome addition to the City Centre hostelries, with ample seating both indoors, and out. The floor is made from wine crates yet nothing quite so haughty rubs off on the venue or its staff. The cool interior of the Neboder building might prove refreshing in the summer, but they should also provide the customer with ample viewing as the Christmas shopping period gathers pace.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. BXW

Breakfast Day Cafe Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50,

info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr. One look at these wraps and you’re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Breakfast from 07:30 - 10:30.

(9 - 29kn).

Imperial Café Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 3pm to 6pm except Sundays! The 18kn coffee n cake or tea n cake is a winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 45kn).

KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. How do you like your eggs?

Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon n eggs, sausages n eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas. And best of all, is served aaalll day long! Q (14-110kn).

Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating. Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli… Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn). PJABW

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

April - June 2013

33

Apetit City Restaurant & Bar Masarykova 18 2EUWQLÄ€NL SUROD]

10000 Zagreb 7 ER FD#]J W FRP KU ZZZ DSHWLW KU AIR CONDITIONED

CAFÉS

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching.

QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there's some fun to be had here, and we found out why.

This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Eli's A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX Lav Gallery & Caffè C-1, Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 2108. Between St. Mark's Church and the Stone Gate, this tucked-away café has a great view that is too often overlooked. The delicious teas, either in a stately service or refreshingly iced, make it a perfect spot in any weather. Lav's antique décor and local artists' gallery adds to the dignified elegance of any visit to Upper Town. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. B MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe ('Complaints Book') above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.

JBXW Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 820 50 20, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr.

Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection.

Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events.

With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. PNBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb's Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or zagreb.inyourpocket.com

make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop.

Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW

Art side of cafes Blok bar E-2,

Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66.

A small space brought to life by the creative tal ents o f Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok of fers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

PJAGBW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-stroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

April - June 2013

35

36

NIGHTLIFE Bars & Clubs Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03

06. There's nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre's cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This nononesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite.

Afterall, what's there not to like about a place that doesn't bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Vintage Industrial Bar I-4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com.

This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don't need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot. Q Open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.

Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can't miss. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJNGXW

Flirting in Croatian Men: have you ever been reduced to tears after a yet another withering put-down from a cucumber-cool Croatian female? Never fear; help is now at hand. A new book, written by Laura Lui and Jelena Primorac, is a humorous guide for foreigners filled with chat-up lines harvested from their chums in Croatia, Bosnia and all over the world, translated into Croatian and ready for you to try out (at your peril!) It’s available on Amazon and from selected shops in Croatia. You get the code to an online MP3 version so you can listen and repeat in fine language-school style. A guide for girls is coming soon, and if you’ve got a special line for hooking the chappies you’d like to contribute, send the girls a mail on info@ flirtingincroatian.com.

INmusic Festival (Photo by Valentino Radman)

VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club.

hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb's best musical performances. Q Open Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers' world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

PENGB Ožujsko Pub C-1, Tkalčićeva 16. Located on the popular corner, where Skalinska and Tkalčićeva intersect, this Pub is named after one of Croatia's most famous beers. Old newspaper ads and beer bottles, outlining the history of the Ožujsko Brewery, line the walls of this modern, yet relaxing environment. A fireplace decorates one wall giving a homey feel and a wooden silhouette of the city encircles the pub, while candles hang from above. Choose from a large array of beers - Stella Artois, Ožujsko, Bavaria, Becks, Lefee, Hoegarden- and quench your thirst with a refreshing drink.

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B Sheridan's Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn't really do pubs.

Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia's only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They're also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you're fond of your pint of plain then that's a good thing.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

Closed Mon, Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHAT NIGHTLIFE TO SEE

Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića)

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country.

The Cathedral Keeper The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders (Photo by Tihomir believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Grzincic) Mirogoj Cemetery J -1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The wellknown architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors.

Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 15kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

April - June 2013

37

38

WHAT TO SEE Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you‘re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Open also on Mondays 3, 10 and 17 December. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman‘s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović‘s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that‘s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the

Soap Magic (Photo by Dijana Nazor) present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr.

Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe‘s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Chess Game (Photo by Maja Sokolean)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Free admission on Thu. U

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia‘s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920‘s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Photo by Krume Ivanovski

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting.

This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren‘t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city‘s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts

The Museum of Street Art www.muu.com.hr. Little by little, street art is coming to life in Zagreb. The Museum of Street Art is bringing art to parts of the city which until now didn‘t have much in the way of art or culture. Every year since 2010 there have been more and more local and international artists taking part in an event which, over a period of a couple of days, brings to life empty canvases in the shape of walls where fantastic murals and pictures appear, expressing thoughts, opinions, wishes and ideals.

Thanks to these artistic interventions today the length of Branimirova ulica is a riot of colour, as are parts of Dugave and Siget. Trešnjevka, Maksimir, Donji grad, Gornji grad, Peščenica, Susedgrad and Črnomerec.

www.inyourpocket.com April - June 2013

39

40

WHAT TO SEE Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.

zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it‘s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.

Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 20:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:30.

Admission 20-30kn.

The Observatory

Orange (Oranž) (Photo by Lea Bogović) and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Parks

(Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr.

Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00.

Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C-3/4. A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) B-3, Trg Marka

Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30.

Closed November - April 1. Admission free.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Photo by Siniša Vuger

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

EXCURSION TO RASTOKE

It‘s time for an excursion...

Spring is the ideal time of the year for excursions. Nature is waking up from it‘s winter hibernation, it‘s warm, but not hot as in the summer and the only thing you need is good weather, comfortable sports clothing, a knapsack on your back, and you‘re ready to go. So, why not take advantage of one weekend this spring for a trip to Rastoke, a watermill settlement, located by the town Slunj (100 km from Zagreb), in Karlovac County. If you are going by car from Zagreb to Rastoke, the fastest way to reach there is by the A1 Highway to Karlovac. Then from Karlovac, go with the local road D1, across Tušilović, towards Slunj. If you do not have your own means of transport, the easiest way to get to Rastoke is with one of the bus lines that run everyday towards the city Slunj. Ticket prices range from 67-79kn per person one-way, and a detailed schedule of departures and arrivals can be found at www.akz.hr. From the bus station in Slunj to Rastoke, the distance is only a 500m leisurely walk along the pedestrian sidewalk.

Rastoke or the “Small Lakes of Plitvice” The settlement Rastoke is situated at the mouth of the river Slunjčica. which flows into the river Korana. A travertine barrier creates a series of small waterfalls, rapids and basins. The most famous waterfalls are Buk, Hrvoje and Vilina Kosa. Rastoke are located at the entrance of the Plitvice Lakes, which is the oldest and most famous National Park in Croatia.

The settlement is special due to its numerous mills, which date back to the 17th century and were built from travertine stone and wood. Some mills even contain primitive washing machines and wool. Due to its architectural heritage, ethnographic and historical value, as well as its natural beauty, in 1969, Rastoke was declared a cultural monument. It is breathtaking in its natural beauty, cuisine and traditions, and we are sure that you will not be disappointed.

What can you do…

Explore the settlement by walking along the trails overlooking the waterfalls and rapids and enjoy the beauty of nature.

Visit the mills, part of the Holjevac family farm, and you can see a mill from the 18th century, which helped the locals create flour that was used to make bread, cakes and polenta.

Try out fishing on the river Slunjčica, Slovin - Unique but make sure to follow their “catch and release” rule. You just need to obtain a Rastoke (Archives)

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Slovin - Unique Rastoke (Archives) daily permit, which costs 150 kn and can be bought at the travel agency or café bar Vodena Ovca.

Drink a coffee at Vodena Ovca, and enjoy the café‘s wooden terrace, while under your feet run murmuring waterfalls, as you‘re refreshed by water blowing off of the lakes.

Th e bike trails are fi xedup for lovers of an active holiday, and in the lower part of Korana, the Rastoke River is the ideal place for canoeing and kayaking.

Vodena Ovca In Rastoke, today, there are approximately 30 households, which were renovated and are well preserved to keep intact the traditions of this region. You can be a witness to the past lives of the people in this area and experience how they once lived, what they ate and even how they arranged their dining room and bedrooms.

A number of the restaurants offer traditional dishes from this region, such as homemade polenta from the Rastoke mills, as well as dumplings, doughnuts, proj (bread without yeast from 5 types of grain), trout, lamb, venison, homemade bread, noodles and strudel.

Join in a variety of workshops on the Holjevac family farm, to l ear n a b ou t crea tin g handcrafted souvenirs and Štrudla various handmade artifacts (purses, hats, scarves) using many traditional techniques (weaving, knitting, crocheting).

Visi t th e newl y opened cave, which leads to one of the waterfalls. If you want to extend your trip for several more days, most households Slovin - Unique Rastoke offer accommodation, either in rustic rooms or bungalows.

(Archives)

Slovin Unique Rastoke 25b, Slunj, tel: (+ 385-47) 80 14 60, info@slunj-rastoke.com, www.slunj-rastoke.com.

October - May 30 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun and holidays Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. June - September 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun and holidays Open 09:00 - 22:00. Tickets 10 - 20kn (October June), 12-25kn (June - October), children under 8 free.

April - June 2013

41

42

GETTING AROUND Public Transport Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10

00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards, that works via top-up system and can be purcashed at all ZET shops and partner kiosks (Tisak)value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn. Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free.

Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb's main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia's railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside.

When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices.

Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost

SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar

Taxis Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.50kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

GETTINGAROUND AROUND GETTING is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you're in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it's next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Car rental

Bicycle rental Blue bike, tel. (+385-) 098 188 33 44, info@zagrebbybike.com, www.zagrebbybike.com. 100kn/day, 50kn for the rest of the day if you take one of the regular Blue Bike tours.

Mondo Bicycles A-2, Ilica 100, info@mondobicycles. com, www.mondobicikli.com. All you need is a document with a photo. 70kn / 6 hours; 100kn / day; 170kn / 2 days.

QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America.

It's a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 D-2, Palmotićeva 25 D-3, Ilica 45 B-2, Petrinjska 59 C-2, Langov trg D-1, Kvaternikov trg J-2, Tuškanac B-1, Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb C-4, Importanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 D-2, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 C-1, International (near BCI), Čazmanska C-4, Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 I-4, Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 D-3, Cvjetni Centre, Varšavska (B-2)

Biking Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is slowly becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. The hustle and bustle of cars in the heart of the city as well as having to battle for a car park, isn't the way to travel. Local government have been proactive in asphalting many of the roads and in doing so, cyclists have been given some extra TLC (tender loving care).

Nowadays, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines.

The markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers alike.

For those seeking a recreational ride then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations.

True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala. hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street Parking/SMS Parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

April - June 2013

43

44

SHOPPING Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr.

City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.t-com.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49.

Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING SHOPPING

Art galleries @telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every

angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan.

Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. N Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr.

Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr.

Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483

01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Gallery Gabriel E-1, Voćarska 25, dominique.juric@zg.t- com.hr, www.vitrajidominique.com.

Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic painter Dominique Jurić who has mastered the magical technique of making stained glass windows in France and Switzerland. Glass Art Atelier ‘’Staklić’’ is the only place in town where you can see a permanent exhibition of stained glass windows by Dominique Jurić.

She has held numerous exhibitions both national and abroad and has spread her love of art to the Gabriel Gallery.

In addition, original Zagreb souvenirs from the Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Keep the magic of Zagreb with you with the ultimate glass souvenir. The hosts will kindly meet and greet you and explain the process of making each souvenir. Simply announce yourself earlier by email: dominique.juric@ zg.t-com.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

April - June 2013

45

46

SHOPPING Souvenirs Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within’, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb’s designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. A Lega-lega B-2, Masarykova 19, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals.

At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Zig Zag C-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1)

457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Izvorno.hr Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, www.izvorno.hr. If you want authentic Croatian products then come hence forth and choose from their great range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Kuća piva (Beer House) I-3, Gorjanska 22, tel. (+385-) 091 537 67 70, kucapiva@gmail.com, www.kucapiva. com. Prepare yourself for some hard decision making as there are a staggering 170 different beers from 16 different countries. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www.naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pinklec Delicija E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.

Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.

Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.

Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.

Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@ berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Post Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible.

Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup, www.meetup.com/Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

April - June 2013

47

48

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel.

(+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/

(+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

BUSINESSDIRECTORY DIRECTORY BUSINESS Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel.

4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52

00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-proper ty.com, w w w.zagreb-proper ty.com.

Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every ‘property' need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ilica (Photo by Veronika Santosi)

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www. joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you're looking for.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/ (+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation.

Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter.

When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank.

Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Looking for more? www.inyourpocket.com April - June 2013

49

50

STREET REGISTER

BRIGHT HORIZONS INTERNATIONAL BRITISH SCHOOL OF ZAGREB

After years of research and successful Nursery and Preschool operations from 2006, we are delighted to announce the continuation into formal education through the opening of the International British School Bright Horizons, which will be situated at Sveti Duh 122, Zagreb and will start to operate from the next school year.

IBSZ Bright Horizons will offer a developmental curriculum in line with the UK National Curriculum enriched with the International Primary Curriculum an internationally-minded, thematic, crosscurricular teaching structure for children growing up in the 21st century.

Starting school is a big step in child’s life, and so is making the decision about your child’s Àrst school.

For more information please visit www.britishschool-zagreb.hr, or call ++385 91 537 97 11

29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

>

$%+5)4@%2/%

! ; "

5%2-1-539%

! $

5%2-1-5

,)5%732

! $ "

5+ ,59 9)0-/%2%

!

$"

367 10%(367-

3539.)

302)+39-=)93 2%6)0.)

82.% $%+5)&%@/75%264357-

0/%

E

>%9-=)9%

)7%0(-=)9%

" C;

!

;

"

! ! "

0%9326/%

! ! "

! "

5+ /5%0.% )75% 5)D-1-5% "

$ !A

"

E ;

"

E ;

5%2-1-5 75F

5+ F57%9% *%D-:1%

$ "

5F2-'% 9%75-= C! ; "

" "

! ! ! ! ! # ! # ! #

" ! "

"

")60%@/%

5-6%90.)

".)62-/

!@-7)0.6/- *%/807)7

!

"! "

78( ')27%5

" ; "

" "

" C

5%D/39-=)9%

C " ; "

0-2-/% :% 75%81%7

C

$5-2.)9%'

E! ;

> ;

5D/39-=)9%

)0367)2@)9%

84@)9% :9-.):(%

"3(2-/39%

"

%2(5-=)9% %(-=)93 D)7%0-D7)

"

5+ 1 -7%

5)2% $%+5)&

" ;

$

!

5%2/34%2

(F-.-2%

%+-=)9%

%039@)9%

" ; "

$ "

>

>

; "

"

=

7 7

$ > ( 3 3

!

+++ , ( &

" ;

)! - $!" #

67 8 3&% 61.)5% '($% $( & ( $#' 67 8 .)(231 61.)58 '($% $# & ( $# 873&862- 7)51-2%0 ( &" # ! %:-9 80-') (& ( # "

7

:

=

7

:

7

7

;5

7 ;5

"

*#$'( , ( &

-4'3-+ ,! "/-( $-012.,% 02 ',&-/+!#'(% - $-*!0)2 1/!+3!(! ,! )-,)/%1,- -$!"/!,01!(!*'<1% 3-4,-+ /%$2 2 !21-"20,-+ ./'(%3-42 !)12!*,-+ 01!,(2 2 ./-+%12 ./-+%1,'+ .-$/29('+! ' 4-,!+! #'(%,!+! ./'(%3-4! !$,- 3/'(%+% -,1!)1 #%,1/! (% /!$,'+ $!,-+ -$ $- 0!1' $ "# $# ! ' " $, # " # # $

& % ! " " "

$! *$ #