Zagreb In Your Pocket No73 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB October - December 2013

Your guide to Autumn Indulge in the city‘s delights

Meet the locals

Folks from Zagreb‘s art scene

And the winner is...

The results of our photo contest

N°73 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

8 10

Interesting and boring stuff included

Cinema Tour

Kino conversation

Zagreb Pulse Folks from Zagreb’s art scene

Where to stay

24 26

A place to rest your weary head

Local flavour

Here is one of the photos that had arrived at our address for the My trip in Croatia competition, find out who the winner is on page 51 and Trakošćan is a fantastic destination for a family day out this Autumn. (Photo by Darko Vurušić)

Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

All those things you mustn’t miss

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

Save on shoe leather

Something to tickle your tastebuds...

Dining & Nightlife Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome

What to see

Getting around

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Directory

The most essential support

Health

Smile makeover

Maps & Index

Sunday soup, chicken consommé with classic side dishes, cappelletti with liver, semolina dumplings, vegetables, and pasta croquettes with chicken legs. (More about 5/4 restaurant read on page 31)

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Street register Transport map City centre map City map Country map

62 63 64 66 67

October - December 2013

FOREWORD Autumn beckons dear readers as the sun has finally begun to set earlier whilst the moon takes its place in the night sky. Such changes in weather makes those long nights an irresistible reason to stay in, but we have so much to say and so many things for you to do that you’ll find yourself socializing and mingling without haste. The feast of St Martin gives you every reason to sip some fine local wine just to get you warm. Festivals in music and film, can cater for just about any readers needs. A special mention must go out to jazz enthusiasts as the next few months offer a smorgasbord of cool, groovy live events. So as you venture out, discover some of the hidden treasures that are taking place in the heart of town.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o. Published 4 times per year

It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( fa ceb ook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Knezić Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Julien Duval Photography

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

c i t y os fe e cl ius t elnt uf ere le

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CROATIA

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ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

TEL: +385 1 481 40 51

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that's open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange

Zagreb In Your Pocket

BASICS

(Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Zagreb's train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

National holidays January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

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Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Toilets You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse. Let's face it, we've all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Visas Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

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Photo by Katarina Vušković

October - December 2013

HISTORY

BASICS B ASICS

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communist-controlled federal Yugoslavia.

ZGH Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

ZGH Archives 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenthcentury national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP,HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December. 2012 The Summer Olympic Games in London were the most successful in Croatia’s history with 6 medals won in total. 2013 The entry of the Republic of Croatia into the European Union.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

CULTURE & EVENTS 22.11 Friday

Youngblood Brass Band E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. For a refreshing sound to traditional jazz which interludes with hip hop, punk, funk and rap, the boys from Oregon push the boundaries of brass band music all-round. They‘ve almost created their own genre in ‘riot jazz‘. Pax Volumi is their recent release as Europe gets a big swing improvisation. QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 45 - 80kn.

26.11 Tuesday

Glasvegas

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip Francesco Cafiso bb, www.mochvara.hr. In the space of 5 years the Scottish indie rockers have hit the charts in the UK, North America and Sweden which has seen them sign to record giants BMG. ‘When the TV turns to Static‘ is the name of their new album and was coincidentally produced by frontman James Allan. They perform at the rocking ‘Močvara‘ Club. QConcert starts at 20:30. Tickets 140 - 160kn.

30.11 Saturday

Pozitivan koncert

Rock & Pop Concerts 11.10 Friday

65DaysofStatic I-3, Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr. Following their highly rated performance at the Terraneo festival in Šibenik last year, this Sheffield sensation returns to the capital with the release of their fifth album ‘Wild Light‘. Their sound is a mix between progressive rock and electronic music dispersed with an industrial sound. QConcert starts at 21:30. Tickets 65 - 80kn.

15.10 Tuesday - 19.10 Saturday

Big Rock Explosion #6

B-4, KSET, Unska 3, www.spona.com.hr. Do you wanna rock n roll all night? Then do not miss this bombastic event which brings to the stage 15 new rock bands from various genres as they pound out their thirst for heavy music. Support the national scene and a promo CD featuring a track from each band will also be available! QTickets 10 - 30kn.

Falstaff - Metropolitan in Lisinski

Dubioza Kolektiv H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. A taste of Balkan reggae meets funk and rock has bought the sounds of this Bosnian band to the limelight in this region. These gents are known for their political lyrics that are both critical and provocative as they intermix their messages via some uplifting music. Definitely funky and energetic to say the least! QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 65 - 80kn.

07.11 Thursday

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Twin sisters who run rampant on stage with their indie pop sound arrive to promote their latest album ‘Heartthrob‘. With sales and you tube hits topping seven million, this Canadian duo is also known for their onstage shenanigans which include stories about their childhood, politics and life in the fast lane. QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 150kn.

B-4, Student‘s Centre Cinema, Savska cesta 25. Another returnee to Zagreb sees Lanegan this time team up with Duke Carwood for an acoustic concert accompanied by a string quartet. Both musicians will present their joint album ‘Black Pudding‘ and the album ‘Imitations‘ which is a compilation of covers that Mark‘s parents used to listen to when he was still a child. QTickets 100 - 120kn.

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Though not mainstream, the cult following that these lads have has seen them last an astounding 30 years as they continue to play their indie rock amidst the many known cover songs they include into their repertoire. Diehard fans can finally breathe a sigh of relief as they come to Zagreb for the very first time. QConcert starts at 20:00. Tickets 200kn.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. The famous British trip-hop pop band Morcheeba rose to fame in the 90s, had a few member changes and are now rocking with Skye Edwards, their original smoky voiced diva back on vocals. ‘Rome wasn‘t built in a day‘, ‘Blindfold‘,

Ephemerals

C-2, Zagreb dance center, Ilica 10, www.plesnicentar. info. This choreography, poignantly entitled ‘Ephemerals‘, is trying to solve a mystery by dealing with five elements in motion: body, image, sound, light and text, thus inviting viewers to enter into this whirlwind of human emotion and experience, a kaleidoscopic world of sensations and memories. QStarts at 19:00.

30.10 Wednesday

Yo La Tengo

09.11 Saturday

Anything

C-2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, www.zagrebackiplesniansambl.hr. Spanish choreographer Daniel Abreu states that the main motivation of his choreographies is to find out what dancers‘ muscles are hiding, whilst they create stories with their own bodies. The same concept lies behind ‘Anything‘, a new dance production by the famous Spaniard, which is collaboration between the Zagreb Dance Ensemble and Zagreb Youth Theatre.QStarts at 20:00.

Pips, Chips & Videoclips

31.10 Thursday

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Dubbed by many as the best album of the year, these local commercial/punk rock giants set out to promote their album entitled ‘Walt‘. Lead singer Ripper is always up to some antics on stage as the band will definitely add many of their classic hits to their repertoire. This is raw solid rock! QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 55 - 70kn.

C-2, Zagreb dance center, Ilica 10, www.plesnicentar. info. A contemporary dance project in which dancers focus on personal stories and the reflections of other artists! Through new information and new technology, they will rechoreograph their performance by constantly adding new

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10.12 Tuesday

Josipa Lisac

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. She has chart topping hits that cover five decades but her peak album, ‘Diary of one love‘ from 1973, is stamped as legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and these days her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy. She still attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style, image and visual appearance.

Jazz&Blues Concerts 21.10 Monday - 24.10 Thursday

Jazz.hr/Autumn

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, jazz.hr. The jive of jazz rolls into the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall with some amazing world artists prepped to strut their stuff. See the likes of Lee Konitz and the Dan Tepfer Duo, Cuban pianist and composer Aruan Oritz brings his quartet, the Vijay Iyer Trio, and Goran Končar with the Darko Jurković quartet to add a spice of home-grown improvisation. QConcerts start at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 100kn. The price forticket packages for all four concerts is 250kn.

27.10 Sunday

Simply Brass Quintet I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Since their very beginnings seven years ago, the Simply Brass Quintet has held numerous well-received concerts in Croatia and abroad. The ensemble is famous for their very diverse repertoire which not only includes works by contemporary composers, but also music from the Baroque, Classical and Romantic period as well as African-American spiritual and jazz songs. QStarts at 20:00.

Dance 20.10 Sunday

Tegan and Sara

08.11 Friday

Kotryna Vaitekunaite- Rings, Bones, Silver

08.12 Sunday

Morcheeba

26.10 Saturday

23.10 Wednesday

Mark Lanegan

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11. See pure rock in all its genres with Goran Bare & Majke, Urban&4, S.A.R.S. and Quassar. This is the 9th edition of the largest Croatian indoor rock music event that also marks World AIDS Day.

‘Shoulder Holster‘ and ‘The Sea‘ are just some of their charting hits. They tour in promotion of their just released LP, ‘Head Up High‘. QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 130 - 170kn.

information in order to achieve the existing link between the past, present and future. QStarts at 20:00.

21.11 Thursday - 24.11 Sunday

Four performances of contemporary dance - Choreographic fantasy by Marjana Krajač C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. This ambitious dance project is a choreographic work by the renowned choreographer and artist Marjana Krajač. It‘s a series of fragments that regulate space, physical and time polygons into one personal diary based on a dialogue between body and space.

Dance in 2043

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Gala Evening of Dance, 15.12 -Trešnjevka Culture Centre

October - December 2013

CULTURE & EVENTS success as an R&B star then changed her repertoire to a more pop and jazz musical style. Having won nine Grammy Awards you can expect to hear her classic hits such as Take a Look, When I Fall in Love and others. QConcert starts at 20:00. Tickets 240 - 500kn.

20.11 Wednesday

Ernie Watts Quartet J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, jazz.hr. Twin Grammy Award winner, jazz and R&B musician, saxophonist and flutist Ernie Watts brings his quartet to town. Watts is a permanent member of the Charlie Haden Quartet West band which has often been declared as the world‘s best jazz band. An event not to be missed for all jazz devotees!

Exhibitions 20.06 2013 Thursday - 18.05 2014 Sunday

Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, hismus@ hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. In 1967, a 16th century merchant ship was found 30 meters below sea level near the island of Gnalić. Discover the cargo brought onboard this ship in Venice as it prepared for its voyage to presentday Istanbul. The exhibition will feature decorative objects, such as glasses, ceramic dishes and chandeliers, as well as bronze cannons, featuring the Venetian Coat of Arms, found among the wreckage.

Classical Music Concerts 17.10 Thursday

Staatskapelle Dresden (Saxon State Chapel Dresden) – Myung-Whun Chung Istovremeno drugi (Photo by Danko Stjepanović)

03.11 Sunday

Big Band Gypsy I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, www.hgm.hr. The HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb features ‘Wiener Tschuschenkapelle‘ (Austria), a synonym ensemble of top folk and world music artists specialising in the sounds of the Balkans, Eastern Europe, as well as traditional Austrian music mixed with elements of Greek Rebetika. This collaboration brings some of the most popular songs of the region to life. QConcert starts at 20:00.

03.11 Sunday

Natalie Cole

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Following in the footsteps of her father, Natalie Cole is an astounding American singer, songwriter and performer. She achieved great

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. One of the world‘s oldest and most renowned orchestras is coming to Zagreb where they will perform Gustav Mahler‘s ‘Symphony No.9‘. Its Zagreb performance will be conducted by a famous conductor of our time and the orchestra‘s first guest conductor, Myung-Whun Chung.

23.10 Wednesday & 13.11 Wednesday

Cycle of European Organ Concerts

K-2, The Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, Jordanovac 110. Croatian organist, Ljerka Očić, created a repertoire based on her favourite songs and will perform an Italian organ concert, featuring 18th century music from Venice to Naples on 23 October and a Dutch organ concert with a selection of songs by Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck on 13 November. Q Concerts start at 19:30. Free entrance.

07.12 Saturday Molto Cantabile Cycle - Valentina Fijačko, sopran, Mario Čopor, piano B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6, www. kdz.hr. A concert by the young soprano Valentina Fijačko, one of Croatia‘s most renowned opera singers who has held numerous concerts in Croatia and across the world. She will be accompanied by famous young Croatian pianist Mario Čopor, also credited with international experience.

Dubioza Kolektiv

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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CULTURE & EVENTS

CULTURE & EVENTS 10.09 Tuesday - 10.11 Sunday

The Quiver of a Medieval Warrior – from Discovery to a Functional Reconstruction

Piri Reis, The Cartographer of Suleiman the Magnificent Exhibition, 02.10 Wednesday – 10.11 Sunday (Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18)

27.06 Thursday - 27.10 Sunday

Transparent Beauty - Glass from Croatian Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19; Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10; The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5. Come marvel at the beautiful glass art pieces which will be on display at the Archaeological Museum, Mimara Museum and the Museum of Arts and Crafts. Don‘t worry about the extra cost of entering so many museums because you only need to buy one ticket to visit all three exhibitions!

01.09 Sunday - 01.11 Friday

Life as told by the Spaček - 65 years of love E-3, Ferdinand Budicki Automobile Museum, Ulica kneza Ljudevita Posavskog 48, www.otk-ferdinandbudicki.hr. If you‘re a car buff then you don‘t want to miss this exhibition featuring one of the most influential cars in automotive history, the Spaček. The oldest Spaček in Croatia, which dates back to 1958, will be on display, alongside the youngest model, made in 1990. This exhibition will also celebrate the 65th birthday of the Citroën 2CV, featuring 250 photographs of the car from 1939-1990, original advertisements, photos of the Yugoslav and French auto plants and many other memorabilia.

Myung - Whun Chung (Photo by Jean-Francois Leclercq)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

C-2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Did you know, that a quiver is a container for archers to store their arrows? Although these containers may seem insignificant, they are extremely important for protecting the arrows during transport and making them easily accessible to shoot immediately. The quiver was reconstructed in 2011, from three early medieval graves discovered and excavated at the site of Lijeva Bara, in Vukovar, in 1952. The reconstructions are shown in this exhibition, which marks the 60th anniversary of the completion of archaeological excavations at Lijeva Bara, as well as the 100th anniversary of the birth of one of the directors of the excavations, Dr. Zdenko Vinski.

26.09 Thursday - 08.12 Sunday

Allegories and Arcadia - antique motifs of Croatian modern art C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, info@galerijaklovic.hr, galerijaklovic.hr. This exhibition will display local Croatian artwork featuring antique motifs used in the ancient art of inspiration and aestheticism when art was created to solely enrich the daily lives of people in Europe, during the 19th century. The exhibition will also include artwork from Croatian artists displayed in galleries in Bulgaria and Hungary.

Small galleries Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-) 091 512 20 28, info@g-mk.hr, www.gmk.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C -2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hd-naiva. hr. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+3851) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija.sczg. hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.tcom.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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30.09 Monday - 01.12 Sunday

On unsteady foundations - Archaeology and 725 years of the Remete sanctuary C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. An exhibition which showcases recent amazing archaeological finds (the foundations of two ancient churches, a cemetery and a number of other buildings) at the site of

Opera 09.11 Saturday

G. Puccini – Tosca J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The classic three act opera depicting Rome in the 1800s has Patricia Racette portraying the passionate diva Flora Tosca as it‘s directed by Luc Bondy. Roberto Alagna sings the role of Tosca‘s artist lover, and George Gagnidze is the corrupt and lustful Scarpia. Puccini‘s tale of murder, lust and political intrigue is soared by some of his best-known lyrical arias. Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 100kn.

the Church of the Virgin Mary in Remete, a sanctuary which coincidentally marks 725 years since the first mention of the Remete Pauline monastery in historical sources.

15.10 Tuesday - 10.11 Sunday

Our Beautiful Homeland

C-3, Art Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. If you have a passion for photography and Croatia, then this exhibit is sure to please. A variety of renowned photographers and artists congregate to raise the truth about contemporary Croatia in all its natural beauty yet with all the social difficulties that its citizens face today.

02.12 Monday - 01.01 Wednesday

Boris Demur

C-3, Ar t Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. This exhibition consists of 2 parts. The first part, takes place on December 2nd and artwork will be created on-site by interacting with school children and the public, which will be put on display, as the second part. It will be presented at the opening ceremony taking place on December 15th.

14.12 Saturday

G. Verdi - Falstaff I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Verdi‘s masterpiece is set in Windsor, England, at the end of the 14th century, it‘s a farcical opera revamped in this new production directed by Robert Carsen, and conducted by James Levine. Ambrogio Maestri plays the iconic basso buffo role of Sir John Falstaff whilst Lisette Oropesa is Nannette. Live from the Metropolitan! QStarts at 19:00. Tickets 100kn. Morcheeba

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October - December 2013

CULTURE & EVENTS 30.10 Wednesday - 24.11 Sunday

The 2nd Biennial of Fine Arts

E-3, Bačva Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb (Croatian Association of Artists), www.hdlu.hr. An exhibition that values true art and true talent as thousands of paintings are on display. This year‘s guests include Austrian artists in the accompanying exhibition entitled ‘Vienna Calling‘.

31.10 Thursday

The Clown Cabaret C-2, VIP Club, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9. There has never been a doubt about the great affinity between the Croats and the Irish as they both have a great sense of humour. The Clown Cabaret will see a mutual performance by four Croatian clowns in Galway, Ireland, in the first half of October as well as a show by four Irish clowns in Zagreb, Croatia, in the second half of the month.

08.11 Friday

Electronic Beats Festival

Giovanni Butcovich, Portrait of a boy in marine uniform 1920 (Oil on canvas), 03.10 Thursday – 03.11 Sunday, Sea, Stone, City (Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20)

Special events 11.10 Friday - 17.10 Thursday

BIT – The 8th International festival for blind people and people with poor vision D-3, Vidra Theatre, Draškovićeva 80; Zagreb Association of Blind Persons, Draškovićeva 80/III, teatar-slijepih@ zg.t-com.hr, www.novizivot.hr. Take a leap forward as have many others before you and allow your senses to take over with numerous performers portraying theatre made meaningful for the blind. Close your eyes leaving the element of illusion your only source of reality.

11.10 Friday - 16.10 Wednesday

Zagreb kom8

B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. zagreb-festival.org. The 8th International Chamber Music Festival features some glossy ensembles with former Zagreb acquaintances (pianist Lauma Skride and violist Guy BenZiony returning) as well as other top musicians who will be first time guests of the festival (Swedish cellist Torleif Thedéen, solo violist Berlin Staatskapelle Julia Deyneka, nineteen year old Russian cellist Anastasia Kobekina and Israeli flutist Gili Schwarzman).

18.10 Friday

Black House - The Musical in Colour B-4, Student Centre Cinema, Savska cesta 25, www. crnakuca.com. The new and original Croatian musical based on an old Zagreb legend and written by Ladislav Prežigalo and Darko Hajsek. With plenty of humor and catchy tunes, this is a true spectacle featuring dancing friars and nuns, tap dance inside dungeons, a witch hunt and other shenanigans to leave the audience in jitters. QPerformances on: 31st October, 15th November, 6th and 19th December at 19:30.

25.10 Friday - 26.10 Saturday

Zagreb World Music Festival Nebo B-4, &TD, Savska cesta 25. This festival of traditional, ethno and folk music gives the wider public an insight into world music trends! It values the richness of each culture forging mutual respect and understanding. Open your ears and hearts to a world of music. QStarts at 20:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

I-3, Boogallo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www.electronicbeats.net. Zagreb is one of few cities to host this event and boy o boy the line-up is top notch electric. Denmark‘s Efterklang headline with their orchestral pop sound followed by Fritz Kalkbrenner and his fusion of soul, hip hop and techno. Savoury additions include Dena and NYC pop duo MS MR. QStarts at 20:00. Tickets 65 - 80kn.

12.11 Tuesday

Za Ondekoza „Demon Drummers“ I-3, Vatroslav Llisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. This amazing group of musicians has for decades been wowing audiences across the globe with their unique taiko drumming and the Zagreb audience will once again have the honour to see why they have been proclaimed the best drum troupe in the world. QStarts at 20:00.

Miroslav Šutej - Retrospective 29.06 Saturday - 03.11 Sunday

J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www. msu.hr. Miroslav Šutej was born on April 29th, 1936, in Duga Resa, which is between Rijeka and Karlovac. He studied at Zagreb’s Academy of Fine Arts, graduating in 1961, before moving on to Krsto Hegedušić’s Master’s Workshop, in which time he won a Grand Prix for his painting ability. He remained in Paris for a number of years, before returning to Zagreb to take up a teaching post at his Alma Mater. Here, he would have a hand in the design of the Croatian coat of arms as well the Kuna banknotes. His work was never conventional, and has been associated with ideas of imagination, creativity, humour, as well as with unusual geometric abstracts utilising optical effects as well as the forces of physics Šutej’s first solo exhibition was in 1962, in Paris, which drew the attention of that era’s masters and over the coming half century he continued to present new and more interesting pieces. His extremely creative art has left a visible mark on the Croatian art scene along with one of the most distinctive artistic oeuvre of contemporary Croatian art. Šutej’s works are part of collections in the world’s leading galleries and museums such as London’s Tate Gallery, the Museum of Modern Art in New York and in the collections of Zagreb’s and Rijeka’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Šutej died near Krapina on May 13th, 2005.

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October - December 2013

CULTURE & EVENTS

Black House (Crna Kuća)

Europe in the Backyard Europea u Dvorištu, B-3 U Dvorištu Cafe, Jurija Žerjavića 7/2. Zagreb is no stranger to festivals of varying types and sizes but this one, spread over many months, is something that one should make every serious effort to attend. Already started, this event has just seen Miloš Urban the Czech author leave town having spoken about his novel, ‘Lord Mord’, a gothic work set in 19 th century Prague. His 2008 work, ‘Seven Churches’ would be best known to a Croatian audience and it can only be hoped that this is not his last visit to Zagreb. All is not lost, however, as over the coming months this hidden gem in the centre of the Croatian capital will see writers coming from all over Europe to discuss their works, and the themes surrounding them. 17.10 Thursday: Ece Temelkuran, a famed journalist and political commentator from Turkey will be joined by local expert on the Eurasian state, Marta Andrić. Temelkuran will be talking about her book ‘Mountain of Pain: Beyond the Turkish-Armenian Conflict’. This is all the more relevant for the parallels which could be drawn with the Serbian-Kosovar conundrum. 29.10 Tuesday: Olga Tokarczuk, one of the most popular Polish writers, will be joined by sociologist Benjamin Perasović, amongst others, in a panel entitled ‘Literature, Psychotherapy, and the Protection of Animals’. Jung’s ideas will be very much in evidence, and the author’s 2009 book ‘Drive your Plough over the Bones of the Dead’ will be examined. 05.11 Tuesday: Celebrated author, Irishman John Boyne, arrives at the start of November. Boyne is best known for his book ‘The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas’, which was also recently adapted for the silverscreen (our tip; read the book, don’t see the film). He will be joined in panel by film critic Mima Simić as they discuss his 2011 novel ‘The Absolutist’. They will be exploring the rising role of the conscientious objector in the modern world of warfare and militarism. 10.12 Tuesday: Ahmet Ümit rounds off th e three month festival as the Turkish author presents his 2012 Novel of the Year, ‘Murder Sultan’. Ümit writes predominately in the realm of the political and historical psychological thriller, and will be joined by Azra Abadžić Navaey as they look at the influence of Fyodor Dostoyevsky - specifically his second novel ‘Crime and Punishment’ - on the genre of crime novels.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

15.11 Friday

Chansonfest C-1, Komedija Zagreb City Theatre, Kaptol 9, info@hds. hr, www.hds.hr. Fancy shedding a few tears over your tragic love life with a bunch of complete strangers? We know we do. So let‘s all go to the Chanson Festival at the Komedija Zagreb City Theatre (they‘re having a laugh?) on 15 November. Bring a toilet roll. Q Starts at 20:00.

16.11 Saturday

European Theatre Night www.noc-kazalista.com. One evening in the year dedicated to the dramatic and performing arts, European Theatre Night is celebrated in most major Croatian Theatres. It‘s night when theatres come alive with the buzz of meetings, conversation and new ideas both among theatre professionals and the audience. Exchange programmes are held, familiarising the Croatian public with the treats that European theatre holds and promoting the Croatian dramatic arts abroad.

22.11 Friday

Monty Python‘s Spamalot C-1, Komedija Zagreb City Theatre, Kaptol 9, www. komedija.hr. Inspired by the medieval chronicles of King Arthur, the head of the Crown gets an adventure he dare not believe in this boisterous and award winning musical that brings the whacky and witty humor of Monty Python to his about to be turned upside down kingdom. The world sensation comes to Zagreb!

Hands - Vesna Špoljar Exhibition, see page 51

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Vojin Bakić

Photo by Tošo Dabac (ATDMSU Zagreb) Jonathan Bousfield looks at the career of modernist sculptor Vojin Bakić, subject of a long-awaited retrospective at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemprary Art (MSU). The exhibition runs from December 6 to February 2. According to an anecdote retold in Darko Bekić’s excellent biography of Vojin Bakić, President Tito arrived at the opening of the Zagreb Autumn Fair in 1963 to be confronted by an angular sculpture by Bakić lying on the grass outside the entrance. “What on earth is that?” asked former metalworker Tito, adding pointedly: “I could have made that myself!” Tito spoke out against abstract art on more than one occasion (especially when he was cultivating better relations with the culturally more conservative Soviet Union), but rarely stepped in to clamp down on artistic freedom. In marked contrast to some other East-European states, modernism flourished in communist Yugoslavia, providing an avant-garde heritage that is much poured over by art historians and gallery curators today. Bakić (1915-1992), whose career stretched from figurative portrait sculptures in the Forties to brash avant-garde monuments in the Eighties, exemplifies this heritage as well as anyone. The exhibition at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art is the first full retrospective devoted to this pivotal figure in Croatian art, and provides an ideal opportunity to get to grips with the man and his times. Graduating from Zagreb Art Academy in 1939, Bjelovarborn Bakić lost all four of his brothers to Croatian fascist execution squads in World War II, and was set to work on Agitprop projects by the communists immediately following the liberation. Bakić’s first job was to decorate Zagreb’s main square in preparation for the Congress of the Antifascist Women’s Front in July 1945. He covered the square’s equestrian statue of Ban Jelačić with a huge plywood screen, to which were added towering papiermaché figures - a female Partisan warrior on one side and a healthy corn-brandishing peasant girl on the other. Archive pictures of this Socialist-kitsch makeover are a sight to behold. The regime’s commitment to Socialist realism was soon abandoned in the early Fifties, and Bakić participated enthusiastically in the first wave of Croatian abstract art. He was also one of the Zagreb cultural scene’s most compelling figures, the kind of serious party animal and dedicated womanizer who helped give the Zagreb art world

Zagreb In Your Pocket

its distinctly bohemian flavour. Bakić’s studio was a popular meeting point for sculptors and their muses; private parties here could go on for days. In 1953 Bakić designed a monument to Marx and Engels intended for the Yugoslav capital Belgrade, only for Tito’s guardians of taste to cancel its construction on the grounds that it was unsuitably avant-garde. However Yugoslavia’s communist functionaries were keen to demonstrate to the outside world that Yugoslavia was not a totalitarian state on the Soviet model, and increasingly allowed modern art and architecture a free rein. One of the key exhibits in the MSU exhibition is a cast of Bakić’s Bull (1956), an iconic, muscular form that was an important inclusion in the attention-grabbingly modernist Yugoslav pavilion at the Brussels World Expo of 1958. The one sculpture that typifies Bakić’s style more than any other is Foliated Form (Razlistana forma; 1957), an alluring black swirl that currently tops a plinth outside the Hotel Dubrovnik in central Zagreb. Resembling a cross between a submarine propeller and the interlocking tails of imaginary sea beasts, it seems to combine the grace of natural movement with an uncompromising interest in abstract form. It’s one of the most beautiful examples of public art anywhere in Croatia - and one that casual strollers may well miss unless they are paying attention. Bakić was heavily involved in designing monuments honouring Yugoslavia’s wartime Partisans, a form of art on which the country’s communist rulers were particularly keen. Such was Yugoslavia’s obsession with war-hero statues that painter Oto Gliha coined the term “Kiposlavija” (“Statue-slavia”) to describe a land in which no Partisan exploit was too small to merit its own Bakić-designed memorial park. Monuments to Yugoslav idealism were unpopular in the Croatia of the 1990s, however, and many Bakić-designed constructions ended up being trashed by right-wing philistines. Suffering total destruction was the Victory Monument at Kamenska near Požega, an asymmetrical metallic tulip that can nowadays only be admired in the form of archive photographs. Arguably Bakić’s most famous project was the memorial centre at Petrova Gora southwest of Zagreb, a 37-metrehigh cluster of angles and curves that was completed in 1981. Holding an exhibition space and a café, the outlandish memorial-cum-museum was visited by school trips and works outings from all over Yugoslavia. The interior was devastated and looted after 1991, and the stainless steel panels that covered the exterior were subsequently plundered by locals. Although nowadays recognized as a masterpiece of Croatian modernism, Petrova Gora would probably cost millions of euro to restore. The MSU exhibition also features Bakić’s sketches for an unrealized monument to Tito that was intended to mark the centenary of the dictator’s birth. Combining a somewhat angular sculpture of Tito set against a backdrop of jutting geometric shapes, the design gave full expression to Bakić’s modernist instincts. Its subject, no doubt, would be turning in his grave. Jonathan Bousfield is the author of the Rough Guide to Croatia.

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Allegories and Arcadia - antique motifs of Croatian modern art

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you‘ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you‘ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U

here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 14:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called „200 Years of Croatian Art“ - that‘s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10

21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š.

Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@hazu. hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that‘s indisputable. When he wasn‘t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example; once an industrial complex but now a public space. In 1924 it housed a textile factory, later serving as a humble warehouse. ‘Lauba - The House for People and Art‘ is no mere marketing trick; the building is now home to the creation of a different product altogether, where art exhibitions coexist with day-to-day company life. The collection here is not separate from everyday life, but rather part of the building‘s lifespan, having been here this past century. Here there are no characterless white walls and the background is made from old brick and aluminium, exhibiting the many forms of its life cycle. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it is home to company employees, and from 15:00 23:00 the public takes over and it is a space for experiences, for learning, for fun, and for social interaction. Lauba has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are

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Natalie Cole

October - December 2013

CINEMA TOUR

CINEMA TOUR Cinemas

Čudna neka mačka (Zagreb Film Festival)

20.10 Sunday - 27.10 Sunday

Zagreb Film Festival

15 godina i jedan dan (Zagreb Film Festival) Zagreb has, alongside its share of plush multiplex cinemas, retained a fair number of old-fashioned picture houses that will delight nostalgia freaks as well as fans of European art cinema and other non-mainstream genres. Even better than that, a welcome side effect of the past couple of years of recession has been a revival of cinema-going, with a brace of rather unique new cinemas opening in these crisis-stricken years. If you don‘t happen to speak Croatian, the good news is that almost all films are subtitled, not dubbed, so you‘ll be able to follow the action if you understand the original language. The first cinema screening more or less as we know it in Zagreb took place in 1896, advertised by the slogan “Living pictures shown here!” Those famous pictures of a locomotive steaming full tilt towards the audience were shown to the dismay of much of the audience, who were then cheered up by a tableau depicting a row between a husband and wife, with the latter robustly administering a broom to the rump of the former to the general delight of the audience. Early public screenings were usually held in the open air or in circus-tents. In 1906 Zagreb got its first permanent cinema, at the spot where the city‘s Hotel Dubrovnik now stands.

The next cinema to open, in the same year, was today‘s Kino Europa, then called the Cyril and Methodius Bioscope. Then cinemas started popping up like mushrooms all over the city. Some of them are still in use today: for example, Kino

Still life (Zagreb Film Festival)

07.11 Thursday - 09.11 Saturday

Pssst! The 7th Festival of Silent Film

The Kill Team (Zagreb Film Festival)

15 godina i jedan dan (Zagreb Film Festival)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10; Zagreb Puppet Theatre, Ulica baruna Trenka 3; Dokukino KIC, Preradovićeva 5; Metropolis Art Cinema (Contemporary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, info@zagrebfilmfestival.com, www.zagrebfilmfestival.com. This October, mark down in your calender the 11th Zagreb Film Festival. Organized by the Zagreb Film Festival Artistic Organization, up to 100 films from countries around the world will be shown, such as award-winning The Kill Team, The Lunch Box and Still Life. Film buffs, you don‘t want to miss out on this extraordinary event!

Tuškanac, then called the Olimp, also opened in the early part of the 20th century; and Kino Zagreb stands on the site where a former cinema, Kino Metropol, was demolished in 1931. As in most modern cities many old picture houses have closed down without trace, but in some cases the buildings have been saved and continue to be used for cultural purposes thanks to their unique design, which makes them ideal for use as theatres. So in the former Helios you‘ll now find the Gavella drama theatre, while the Apolo, later known as Kino Croatia, is now the Kerempuh satirical theatre. Halima‘s Path‚ is the Croatian candidate for the Oscars 2013. The Croatian Film Society chose the film by Arsen Antton Ostojić which will be considered in the selection process for the Best Foreign Film Award at the Oscars.

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H-4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com. See film through a different light, this is where the audio background of a film is removed and the organisers provide an alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remember, shhh!

Animafest 1988 Archives

Art kino Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098

40 03 06, info@artkinogric.hr, www.artkinogric.hr. This space is undergoing a revival as a cult meeting spot. There‘s a funky café, and the basement club hosts DJ parties open ‘til 02:00 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, featuring genres from dubstep through grime to 80s trash. Art kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Croatia’s first digital art cinema in the new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children‘s films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad. Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. KIC is the Zagreb Centre for Culture and Information, a hub for cultural activities of many kinds. The Art Cinema focuses on non-commercial film, documentary and animated film, and shows cycles by various directors and from the archives. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. An attractive old cinema and café, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals, such as the Subversive Film Festival and Animafest (animated film). Follow them on Facebook! Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection.. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection.

07.12 Saturday - 13.12 Friday

Human rights film festival

B-2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, humanrightsfestival. org. For the 11th year running this feature event gathers true and heartfelt screenings linked to issues dealing with human rights from all four corners of the globe. The Europa Cinema is home to this worldly topic that is sure to leave visitors with much to ponder.

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Animafest 1978 Archives

October - December 2013

ZAGREB PULSE

Photo byJulien Duval

Folks from Zagreb‘s art scene Julien Duval Interwiev ZIYP: Tell us something about yourself; how did this Frenchman find himself in Croatia? Julien: A Frenchman yes, my name is Julien Duval and I work as a freelance photographer. I first came to Croatia in 2010, for a three month internship, as part of a European programme called Eurodyssee. It was an amazing experience but all too short. I chose to stay and learn more about the country and am now quite settled in Zagreb. ZIYP: Was it hard to learn Croatian? Julien: Yes of course, Croatian is not an easy language to learn. It is far removed from that which I have learned before but, after a lot of work and effort, it now sounds much more natural to me. At the start, however, it was exceptionally frustrating and I was close to giving up. I‘m not yet fluent but I have enough to get me through my daily life. ZIYP: And your love of photography. Where did that come from? Julien: When I was a child I wanted to become a photographer, but I could not tell you why exactly; it was always there in the back of my mind. I studied Geography at University and

ZAGREB PULSE was working on my PhD., well on the way to becoming a researcher, but that childhood dream came back to me one day and I simply changed my life journey, mid stream. I was starting something new, and perhaps more artistic. Although a challenging goal I took classes in photography in Paris for three years, and now I am the man you see before you. I try and incorporate my own background into my work. ZIYP: Is photography profitable here for you? Would it not have been easier to remain in France where you might prosper more? Julien: Probably yes, but what‘s the point in wondering about the past? I think that if you have the will to succeed, and to achieve your goals, then you can practise photography wherever you want no matter which country you are in. I still work outside Croatia as I love to travel, but there‘s a big part for networking and self-promotion to play; you can‘t simply take nice pictures and expect to succeed. Like any job there‘s a business aspect to be aware of. ZIYP: In photography do you have a favourite topic or theme? Julien: I am a Geographer and Photographer both. I combine these two aspects in my work, and that‘s why I like travel photography the most. I also cover a lot festivals and concerts. I just love to take the right picture at the right time!

The parallel world of Zagreb - Lidia Boševski Every city has a life that is hard to see from the outside, even when you live from within. At times you may visit a city more than once or twice and still certain hidden gems remain unexplored. When it comes to Zagreb, one of its secrets is the life and works of Lidia Boševski. It‘s hard to tell what amazes you when stepping into her studio as you discover a sense of warmth, cordiality, simplicity, creativity and beauty in her and her works, which are bound by earth and nature. Af ter completing a degree in Applied Arts at the Faculty of Technology in Zagreb, Lidia Boševski‘s work in textile and clothing design, as well as product design and ceramics began in 2003. The acknowledgement of her work saw Photo by Julien Duval her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics and soon resulted in the opening of the studio OWL, on Vlaška 81a. At this year‘s Milan Design Week 2013, Boševski participated in the exhibition ‘Solid Acts‘ and was amongst the 32 top designers as she represented Croatia and all it has to offer in the world of design. Lidia is said to breathe life into ceramics in a whole new way. ‘It all started when my husband saw a contest to create a cup and brought home some clay to try and make something with it‘ says Lidia. Her work is in complete harmony with nature. Nature in essence is her deriving force where the very concept of ‘partici-

pation in the process of making‘ unfolds. Her use of a variety of materials both independently and in combination (e.g. land and cellulose) reveal how nature reacts, responds, and incurs some new material. ‘Whether an object is to b e more flexible or stronger, it is only by playing with nature that we get to the answers which are an endless source of inspiration‘, explains Lidia. Nature gives her the ability to personify its very beauty as she creates Photo by Julien Duvall new usable items that can be art exhibits, and that their emergence tell the story of stone, wood, rock, sea, wind…. By using natural almost edible materials as well as the organic colors that nature has to offer, it so no wonder that every one of her art works appear as if they had been taken out of the forest, or the sea ... Lidia has created useful and recognisable objects such as containers for storing grain/oil with caps of various wood types. In addition, Boševski does not glaze her crafted items but rather impregnates them with a mixture of bee wax, lavender and/or olive oil, all environmentally friendly. So why not take home a custom made ceramic vase, bowl, plate etc …A piece of pottery that reminds you of Zagreb and its parallels. True authenticity! The atelier by Lidia Boševski functions as an exhibition space, her knowledge and experience is shared with all lovers of this branch of art, organising workshops in Croatian and English.

Photo by Julien Duval ZIYP: So you love to travel; how hard is it to stay in one place when there are new places, cultures, and customs just waiting to be discovered? Julien: I‘ve never hidden my love of travel, and the excitement in new horizons. While Zagreb is my home I‘m never afraid of travel, be it for work or for personal reasons. For me, taking photos is a rewarding and challenging experience, something I love immensely. ZIYP: Finish the sentence - “What I like most about Zagreb is…” Julien: What I like most about Zagreb is the human size of the city; even though it is a capital. I like to be close to nature, so that I can escape the urban jungle whenever I want, and Zagreb is like my home in France in that respect; Sljeme reminds me of the mountains back in France so I have a special affinity with that particular place. ZIYP: So, finally, where can a potential client contact you, and see your past work? Julien: If you are interested in my work you can check my website at www.julienduvalphoto.com. You can also follow my activities and some every day pictures on Facebook - just search for Julien Duval Photography

Photo by Þórgunnur Þórsdóttir

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Photo by Julien Duval

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October - December 2013

WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. Everything you‘d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they‘re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Dogs weighing up to 20 kg are free of charge whereas all other pets (including dogs) come at a cost of 30€ per day. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €105 - 150, 28 suites €175 - 285, 23 Executive Rooms €130 - 175, 1 Presidential Suite €1100 - 1500). PTJHAR6UFLGB KDXCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin. zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It‘s majestic and

WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €112 - 157, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €162 - 207, 1 Presidential Suite €1100 - 1500, 19 Executive Suites €247 - 292, 2 Delux Suites €547 - 592). PZOTJHAR6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1)

469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotel. at, www.arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (5 singles €90 - 160, 141 doubles €99 - 170, 3 suites €200 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €375 - 470). PiHAR6U FLGBKDXSwW hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb‘s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb J-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com. Located in Zagreb‘s business district, it‘s only a few kilometers from the city center. Decorated in a sleek and modern style, this chic hotel has 152 guestrooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking a spectacular panoramic view of the city. During your stay, get your heart rate up at the fitness center or just kick back your feet and relax at the indoor pool and sauna. For a quick fix on any shop-a-holic urges, Green Gold Shopping Center is located nearby, along with plenty of restaurants to satisfy your food cravings. Pets allowed. Breakfast included. Parking 15 €. Q152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHAR6UFLGDCwW

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q234 rooms (102 singles €135, 91 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 33 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Presidential Suite €220). POTJHA6UFLG BKXW hhhh Hotel International C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 88 00, fax (+385-1) 610 86 44, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international.hr. This elegantlydesigned hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (177 doubles €143, 8 triples €196, 1 suite €232, 20 Junior Suites €163, 1 Presidential Suite €482). PiOTHAR6U FLGKDwW hhhh

Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@ esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 35€/day. Breakfast not included; 24€/person. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €129 - 169, 48 Delux Rooms €159 - 188, 13 Delux Suite €219 - 259, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHAR6UIFLEGB KDW hhhhh Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it‘s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you‘ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes‘ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (24 singles €100, 53 doubles €115, 41 triples €127, 3 suites €250, 2 Junior Suites €180). PTJHAR6LGBKS DFUW hhhh

Homestay Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483

95 54/(+385-) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). PALGK

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October - December 2013

LOCAL FLAVOUR

WHERE TO STAY Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-

Mid-range Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone‘s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren‘t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (33 singles €65 - 80, 38 doubles €75 - 95, 5 triples €130). PiOTJHAR6LGW hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www. hoteljadran.com.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, many of the hotel rooms overlook one of the oldest streets in the city, Vlaška. Enjoy the view of the busy day-to-day activities of locals as they travel to and from the city center, while overlooking Zagreb‘s Cathedral in the distance. Only a few minutes‘ walk from the main square, this modern and sleek hotel, offers the luxuries of a flat-screen TV, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. Its central location is perfect for easy access to the main tourist sites. Q49 rooms (44 singles €74, 44 doubles €85, 5 triples €98). PZJAR6ULGKW hhh

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC

1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that‘s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. Q42 rooms (42 apartments, 450kn - 1150kn). Zagreb Point Apartments C-4, Miramarska cesta 15b, tel. (+385-) 099 562 24 85, zagrebapartment@ gmail.com, www.zagrebpoint.com. Coming to the capital! Then we have serviced apartments that go beyond your average accommodation offer. Fully furnished and in pristine conditions, choose from location to the centre, WIFI, airconditioning, cable TV, bike rentals, equipped kitchens and much more. Every need can be met and all at reasonable prices.Q6 rooms (6 apartments €50 - 100). PTBW

Hostels

Food Markets If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won‘t want to miss the farmers‘ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you‘ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you‘re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you‘re not short-changed or given spoiled produce? Don‘t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an openair market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might

Food and Wine events

City Design Hostel Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel.

(+385-1) 640 44 44, fax (+385-1) 640 77 52, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. Located in the western suburb of Prečko, the City Design Hostel can be reached by both bus (115, 116 leaving from Ljubljanica terminal) and tram (get the 5 or 17 to Prečko, then head north). Recommended as a base of operations for young couples seeking to explore the countryside, or for those in town for a specific reason but who want to steer clear of the hustle and bustle of city centre. This hostel would seem more like a 4 star hotel for its inclusion of gym and spa facilities, and its luxurious setting. Q 90 dorm beds, 16€ per person. PALGW Ravnice C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/(+385 -) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel. com, www.fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can‘t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhood-style courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city‘s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 26 dorm beds, 12 - 20€ per person. PJNGW Hostel Arena H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+3851) 642 19 50, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostel. arena@zgh.hr, www.nazor.hr. Set in the RemetinecLanište district, this hostel is a stone‘s throw from Arena Zagreb. It accommodates individuals and groups, has its own restaurant and car park too. Public transport (bus/tram) are close by and you are a mere 15 minutes from the city centre. Q 261 dorm beds, 127 - 195kn per person. ALGBKXW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there‘s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there‘s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARULGW

04.10 Friday - 13.10 Sunday

Week of Restaurants Croatia www.tjedanrestorana.com. From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb! Choose from 75 restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of 100kn. Special 3 course menus will be served up with the odd aperitif or glass of wine on the house. What a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines.

12.10 Saturday

Wine Jam Zagreb D-2, Hole In One Gastropub, Vlaška 42, www.winejam.com. If you wish to discover the beauty of wine, regardless of its name, geographic origin and price, then ‘Wine Jam’ offers a new concept, almost like a jam session of winemakers. The Hole in One pub is the perfect place in which ten selected wine cellars from Croatia and Serbia will combine wine tasting with promotional prices of wines as well as some great music to add to this special event. Q Wine Jam exhibition and wine tasting from 14:00-20::00. After party from 20:00- 00:02. Admission will be 75kn, and return the deposit for glass 25kn.

19.10 Saturday - 20.10 Sunday

9th Pumpkin Festival

Ivanić-Grad. A festival where you‘ll have the chance to sample and buy a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There‘ll be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by carriage and classic car laid on, children‘s play areas and workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibitions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in Ivanić-Grad - and you‘re most welcome to join in the fun! Ivanić-Grad Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 288 15 91, info@tzig.hr , www.tzig.hr.

26.10 Saturday

The Little Market in the Attic I-2, Sinkovićeva 8, sjediijedi.tportal.hr. Many people feel they‘d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market in the Attic (Mali plac na Tavanu) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Literally held in the attic of Jelena Nikolić, a food stylist and blogger, the market is open once a month and you can find

Photo by Karen Olson

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mali plac na Tavanu (Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan)

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all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It‘s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food. QJ

27.10 Sunday

Gastro Turopolja Velika Gorica. A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its environs. Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture. As you drive around, you‘ll find a whole host of specialities and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the local pubs and restaurants. Velika Gorica Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 622 16 66, tzvg@tzvg.hr, www.tzvg.hr.

15.11 Friday - 17.11 Sunday

Vinovita

I-5, Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, www.zv.hr. Oh wine! How divine! With Croatian vino becoming ever so prevalent across the world, the 18th edition of Vinovita again becomes a melting pot for experts with the latest in innovative approaches and related equipment to wine. It is the only festival of its kind in this part of Europe that is held under the patronage of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV).

29.11 Friday - 30.11 Saturday

8º Zagreb Vinocom

C-4, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Mihanovićeva 1, ivan. dropuljic@vino.com.hr, vino.com.hr. Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition that promotes the very best in national and international vino as locals would call it.

Last weekend in October or first weekend in November

Days of Portugizec - The Wine of Plešivica

I-4, Boćarski dom, Prisavlje 2. Are you a connoisseur of wine? Then why not fancy a glass of Portugizec, a young red wine made of blue Portuguese grapevine variety. It is traditionally grown in the Plešivica region and locals will tell you it goes down well with roasted goose and other traditional meals. This time-honoured event is housed at Boćarski dom and is a symbol of autumn in our city.

October - December 2013

LOCAL FLAVOUR

LOCAL FLAVOUR Sherry’s coffee and wine lab

Croatian wine and tapas in cosy wine bar at Trešnjevka, Andrije Žaje 63. Ask Sherry or her Sheriff for recomendations.

Sherry‘s coffee & wine lab H-3, Andrije Žaje

63, www.sherrys.eu. Welcome to the newest hotspot in town where everything you see, feel and taste is par excellence. Choose to relax in this small setting where you can sip the finest Italian coffee, or choose from an assortment of beers and over 170 excellent, mostly Croatian wines. The owners have chosen nothing but the finest cheese, prosciutto and smoked meats on the menu which resemble an appetizing Croatian tapas and at very reasonable prices. Art, food and wine exhibits are held regularly for all lovers of what‘s fine in this world. So ooze your way in to Zagreb‘s latest setting! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. B be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It‘s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city‘s markets they‘ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it‘s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun. See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That‘s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn‘t raised on artificial substrate so it‘s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it‘s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they‘re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imper fections in th e produce natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that‘s a trick to add weight on the scales). The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it‘s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it‘s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It‘s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you‘re a vegetarian, you‘ll want to avoid the meat section where you‘ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it‘s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there‘s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here

Zagreb In Your Pocket

you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal. Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (sviježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with papr ika, nettle, herbs or made with goat‘s or sheep‘s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island. A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you‘ll meet you‘ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you‘re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There‘s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all. At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you‘ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including p o e t Tin U j ević an d novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this par t of the market. Go a little further along Opativina and you‘ll find stalls selling cheap clothing. Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing s eas on s. Al on g wi t h hothouse staples there are al ways narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn‘t changed in the past 30 years; it‘s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day‘s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro. The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more. So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Dishes Here in Zagreb we‘re at the crossroads of a number of culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the AustroHungarian Empire so it‘s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you‘ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals. But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples. Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there‘s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn‘t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions. Something you might find on lunchtime menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak. This is an all-in-one meal usually made with

chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings. Then there‘s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that‘s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk. Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy. You can tr y these foods in Zagreb‘s tradi tional-style restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you‘d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locallyreared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

5/4 5/4 E-2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, rezervacije@petacetvrtina.com, www.petacetvrtina. com. One of the essential factors that make a restaurant stand out from the rest is its philosophy. The team at 5/4 are all about the revival of Croatian cuisine and paying full respect to the environment through their selected menu, cooking practice and savoured ingredients. The notion of using regional produce, supporting local farmers, ensuring that all food is organic in growth and preparation all contribute to their cause in rejuvenating a national culinary repertoire. So welcome to a world of discovery, Restaurant 5/4 is

Black pudding sausages made from black Slavonian pigs with pig thymus, served with apple mousse, roasted kohlrabi, sea fennel and vanilla sauce

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

certainly creating its own new Croatian cuisine. Owner Dino Galvagno has embarked on a serious adventure by taking traditional Croatian cuisine and giving it a whole new contemporary approach. From the food you dare to eat to the food you may eat in a nearby restaurant, here they will be given new value. Patrons have the opportunity to try dishes prepared with wild herbs that grow in various parts of Croatia and are considered extremely healthy, such as: wild chard, sea lettuce, beech nuts, yarrow, rowan, saltmarsh, cornel, sea cucumbers and much more. Galvagno use parts that others avoid because he know their true value. With only a little thinking and creativity, he can cook up a beautiful and delicious meal.. The entire story is rounded off with a splendid interior which at first may seem fashionable, but once you’ve tried the food, you will see a clear connection between the ambient and the menu. In addition, you have the opportunity to taste wines by some excellent winemakers such as Šulijić, Kosovec, Sladić, Kunjas,and wine made of indigenous grape varieties including pušipel, škrlet, debit, grk. This is a restaurant of indulgence, where your palate is given new meaning and best of all where you will not be left hungry.One can expect surplus service in a delightful ambience (it actually takes you to another part of Croatia). Prices are oh so fair with desserts just short of excellent as they sway more to your traditional flair unlike the prevailing mains and entrées. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

October - December 2013

RESTAURANTS

LOCAL FLAVOUR Feast of wine - St. Martin’s Day

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin‘s Day (11. 11 Monday), the grape has to be “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend, St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed a bishop. Martinje is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo (8 - 11 November) and across various city centre locations between the 6 - 11 November. What a blessing! Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JB

Bornstein C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61,

info@bornstein.hr, www.bornstein.hr. This is a boutique wine store in town and its run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its new owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1)

553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. „Good Wine“ is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 20:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 125kn). PALGBW

Iločki podrumi

C-1, Kaptol 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 93, ilocki-podrumi@zg.tcom.hr, www.ilockipodrumi.hr. Ilok is a town in Slavonia known for its wines. This store is known for its good TZZZ Archives selection of them. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Jabuke & Ruže C-1, Nova Ves 6, tel. (+385-1) 466 67 47, www.jabuke-ruze.com. Apples and Roses honors the patron saint of gardeners through their offerings of local olive oils and jams in addition to an enticing selection of local and imported wines. Straight-from-the-cellar quality without the dank or the dark, a tranquil garden invites visitors to step inside the vibrant vinoteka to savor this tribute to all that fruit can become. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

Kuća hrvatskih vina (The house of Croatian Wines) Zastavnice 13c, Hrvatski Leskovac, Lučko,

tel. (+385-1) 655 75 55/(+385-) 098 22 44 82, marketing@kucahrvatskihvina.hr, www.kucahrvatskihvina.hr. To learn more about Croatian wine, you probably couldn‘t do much better than take a trip to Kuća hrvatskih vina - the House of Croatian Wines. The display is arranged into four sections presenting wines from the main producing regions of Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Central Croatia. It is situated just outside Zagreb, appropriately enough at the beginning of the Zagreb County Wine Route just to the east of the city. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 23:30. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). PAGBW Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke‘ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica‘s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it‘s great news that they‘ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (68 - 130kn). PTAGB K pivovari H-3, Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 375 18 08, info@ kpivovari.com, www.kpivovari.com. A Zagreb institution since 1893. The name means “At the Brewery”, because, beer-loving friends, the restaurant is part of the Ožujsko brewery! Traditional Croatian food, including light snacks, and oceans of the foaming stuff, both local and foreign. Catering facilities for large groups and conferences. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (30 - 110kn). PALGBXW Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of i ts star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). ALEGBW Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it‘s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGBW

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October - December 2013

RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANTS Bistro Apetit B-1, Jurjevska 65a, tel. (+385-1) 467

International American Steak & Grill House C-2, Ljudevita Gaja

Bistro Šalša

1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), info@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www. hotel-dubrovnik.hr. For a restaurant based in one of Zagreb‘s busiest hotels, slap bang in the middle of the city, this place is deceptively sedate. Well air conditioned, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, and wonderfully spacious for the taller diner this American Steak and Grill House will prepare and cook your meat to specific recipes. Getting hungry just typing this. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (39 - 139kn). PAGBW Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‚oasis of enlightened hedonism‘ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu‘s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAGW

Ethnic Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia.doo@gmail.com, www.asia.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it‘s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There‘s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it‘s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). PAGB Bazaar K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 798 05 22, info@restaurant-bazaar.com, www.restaurantbazaar.com. Jump off the tram at Maksimirska and dive into Zagreb’s own Arabic dining oasis for one-of-a-kind blends of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine. Let your senses rest awash in the dozens of spices enveloping each lamb and lentil delight. Ask your server for fresh flat bread and a delicate fruit or honey desert. Hugely popular for their cafeteria-style lunches, reservations are recommended. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (25 85kn). PAVSW Delicija Libanesi J-3, Radnička cesta 48, tel. (+3851) 604 01 39, info@delizie-libanesi.com, www.delizielibanesi.com. For centuries, the Lebanese have travelled around the world sharing their amazing cuisine. Now, they have finally come to Zagreb. Enjoy some authentic hummus or baba ghanouj appetizer followed by kafta or shish taouk meat and delight your palate in an explosion of flavours. Decorated in a simple but classy style, the white walls adorned with oriental rugs create the perfect atmosphere for meals and special events, like belly dancing! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). PAGBW Jazz.ba Chevap B-2, Varšavska 8, tel. (+385-) 091 955 50 01, www.jazzbachevap.com. Now you can enjoy the tastes and smells of Sarajevo in the center of Zagreb. Famed as the city where the east meets the west, Sarajevo‘s delicious kitchen made its culinary mark by combining Austrian, Hungarian, Italian and Turkish dishes. Try out some Sarajevski chevapi with a side of ajvar or kajmak. To satisfy your sweet spot, have a piece of Bosnian baklava or tufahija, that will simply melt in your

mouth. Sit back and enjoy your meal at a copper covered table in a spacious, arched alcove. Hardwood floors with throw rugs and pictures of Sarajevo give a warm and homey feel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12 - 45kn). J Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina. hr. Very authentic, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALEGW Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. (+3851) 618 76 18, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of Radnička and Vukovarska, this Chinese restaurant is pleasently clean and bright.The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service. QOpen 11:00 23:00. (25 - 130kn). PALGB Sofra K-4, Radnička cesta 50 (Green Gold Centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra. hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (24 - 98kn). PALGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385 -1) 4 86 05 30, japanski. restaurant@takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you‘re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you‘re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you‘ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). PAG

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73 35, cabalier@zg.t-com.hr, www.apetit.hr. The menu is gem-like in its perfection: a small selection of imaginative dishes tailored to the season. The dishes themselves are an essay in flavour, texture and presentation. Headed up by Viennese chef Christian Cabalier, the wine list is also fabulous and the desserts to die for. A place to push the boat out: pricey, but worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (85 - 135kn). ALGBW Papa‘s B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17/ (+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@papas.hr, www.papas.hr. This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced well, and with word spreading fast you‘d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:30 - 22:00. (26 - 34kn). PJAGW Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig‘ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGBW Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.esplanade.hr. Zinfandels, named after California‘s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW

Quick Eats Bistro Šalša H-3, Kostelska 11, bistro.salsa.tresnjevka@gmail.com. Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn).PNW California Burrito B-2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, www.burrito.hr. Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work wind-down. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 27kn). PNW Žlica i vilica D-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+385-1) 457 27 70, info@zlicaivilica.hr, www.zlicaivilica. hr. Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for? QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 60kn). AGBSW

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Pizza Duksa K-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56,

duksa.pizza@gmail.com. It‘s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say „good“ we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. So we‘re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. Duksa‘s pizza menu offers about ten original „designs“ with tomato sauce („red pizza“) and a similar number without sauce („white pizza“). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example „Shitake Happens“. Buon appetito! QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn). PAGBXSW Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16. With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city‘s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (30 - 69kn). NGBSW Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 165kn). PAVGB

October - December 2013

RESTAURANTS

Pizzeria 6 J-3, Medulićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 484 62 48/

Vegetarian corner

(+385-1) 484 65 62, www.pizzeria6.hr. Apart from crusty pizzas and tempting pasta dishes, they also do fried and grilled fish, including papaline and gavuni, which are deepfried little fishies to be munched whole, a great snack for as little as 15kn. A good place to go as well for a plate salad. Delivery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (32 - 70kn). PAGBSW

Elixir Raw Food Club D-1, Ribnjak 8, tel. (+385-1)

561 76 31/(+385-) 091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood. com, www.artofrawfood.com. The first thing to note is that this is a members club, not a restaurant, so you will need to call ahead in order to reserve your table; membership will be taken care of once you arrive. Everything on offer is naturally prepared, with no preservatives, and indeed no actual cooking. Staff will be more than happy to recommend something to your taste, and certainly the menu is quite varied and unique for Zagreb. For the less adventurous there are eminently palatable snacks and drinks which even the most devout carnivore will enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (48 - 65kn). Green Point C-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67. Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). AW

Seafood Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn). PJALGBW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PARGB Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma‘s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don‘t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGW

Chic & Cheerful Risotto with shrimps

Breakfast Day Cafe Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50,

info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr. One look at these wraps and you‘re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. Breakfast from 07:30 - 11:30. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (12 60kn). PAGBW Imperial Café D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 15:00 to 18:00 except Sundays! The 18kn coffee n cake or tea n cake is a winner. QOpen 07:00 23:00. (32 - 45kn). PAGBW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating. Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli… Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn). PJGBW

Eat, drink, relax

Stake potatos (Photo by Biljana Gaurina, Oxbo Urban Bar & Grill

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. Zagreb‘s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema‘s website for upcoming features. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PJBW

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Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). AGBW Cušpajz C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50 45. Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you‘ll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PB Lari & Penati D-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati. hr. Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With oneof-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you‘ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the latest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). PAGBSW Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen. QOpen 12:30 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 90kn). PAGBW zagreb.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2013

CAFES

RESTAURANTS Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb‘s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there‘s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner‘s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Nonsmoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli‘s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli‘s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. PJGW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJAGBW Jutro C-2, Teslina 9, jutrouteslinoj@gmail.com. Sitting outside of this small coffee shop you could be forgiven if you imagined yourself on an island in the Adriatic. Set just off the street this cafe sells only Croatian homemade produce as well as acting as gallery for some fantastic art pieces (all of which are for sale). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‚Complaints Book‘) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. JBXW

Season Holidays knocking

TZGZ Archives Tis the season to be jolly, bells are ringing and Zagreb‘s holy! You‘ve come at an illustrious time as the city and its folk relish the days leading up to Christmas. The beginning of Advent sees a transformation of the town with Christmas lights glowing, Christmas stands encompassing authentic souvenirs, mauled wine, sausages and traditional fritule (hot like doughnut balls seasoned with icing sugar and other toppings). There are plenty of events around town and you may spot Saint Nicholas with his sack full of goodies roaming about. If you‘re looking for a spot to warm up, Tomićeva Street turns into a splendid sight with various stands to mingle and jingle and its narrowly squeezed space relays a great vibe to all those present. There‘s much to do and plenty to see, so let Advent in Zagreb fill you with glee!

01.12 Sunday

Silent Night

I-3, The Small Hall of the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.hgm.hr. The HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb combines with Valery Nikolovska, Maja Savić and Martina Brnetić, three renowned vocalists in local circles who unite to bring an exceptional and luxurious hint of Christmas joy to the audience in conjunction with the sound of a big band. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

13.12 Friday

Budapest Gipsy Symphonic Orchestra - 100 Gypsy Violins A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Hall, Savska 30. After five years, hundreds of Gypsy violins will once again wake the hearts of Croatians as the world‘s largest gypsy orchestra will yet again grace our capital city with their presence. Their repertoire will include works by Vittorio Monti, Grigoraş Dinicua, Johannes Brahms and Georges Bizet, just to name a few. Q Starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 300kn.

TZGZ Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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U Dvorištu B-3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. A fair trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb). Also a well suited home to Europea u Dvorištu, a literary mini-festival which spans both countries and months. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW

Small plates and sweet treats Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you‘ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. PGW Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‚n‘ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. NGBW Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. They make home-made bajadera – the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG

Hungry for more? zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - December 2013

NIGHTLIFE

Urban Wednesday - Green Gold Club

Alternative

Bars

AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11. org, w w w.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists‘ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb‘s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don‘t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what‘s going on. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb‘s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer‘s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it‘s best to keep track via the web. Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBXW Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, kizohc@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there‘s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. EBW

Bacchus Jazz Bar C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-) 098 32 28 04. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you‘re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. NBXW Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06. There‘s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre‘s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb‘s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PBX Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the

massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen , Mon, Tue 07:30 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PJAGXW Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This nononesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what‘s there not to like about a place that doesn‘t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb‘s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven‘s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. PBXW Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 309 58 85/ (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-andcoming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 01:00. PBXW

Vintage Industrial Bar I-4, Savska cesta 160, tel.

(+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. And best of all, you don‘t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot. QOpen 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Clubs Aquarius H-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364

02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius.hr. One of the nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Saturday‘s feverish theme night is ‘Funhouse‘ with house music to get you hoppin. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGBW Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With cheap beer and live shows most nights, there‘s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock‘n‘Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PGX Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can‘t miss it. Don‘t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ‘s and a relaxed atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJNGXW

Green Gold Club

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Green Gold Club

Klapa - Green Gold Club

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October - December 2013

WHAT TO SEE

NIGHTLIFE Essential Zagreb

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Urban Wednesday - Green Gold Club

Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36,

klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can‘t miss. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX The Gallery G-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, Lake Jarun, tel. (+385-) 099 444 24 44, info@gallery.hr, www.gallery. hr. One of the nicest bars/clubs in Zagreb. Would you like a cocktail, or a bottle of champagne to drink while dancing to world famous DJs? Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAGB VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club. hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb‘s best musical performances. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers‘ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you‘re not wearing your hottest gear don‘t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large „pub“ - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PJBX Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ožujsko Pub C-1, Tkalčićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 482

72 37. Located on the popular corner, where Skalinska and Tkalčićeva intersect, this Pub is named after one of Croatia‘s most famous beers. Old newspaper ads and beer bottles, outlining the history of the Ožujsko Brewery, line the walls of this modern, yet relaxing environment. A fireplace decorates one wall giving a homey feel and a wooden silhouette of the city encircles the pub, while candles hang from above. Choose from a large array of beers - Stella Artois, Ožujsko, Bavaria, Becks, Lefee, Hoegarden- and quench your thirst with a refreshing drink. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JGB Sheridan‘s Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn‘t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia‘s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They‘re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you‘re fond of your pint of plain then that‘s a good thing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

Jazz in Zagreb The Catching a top notch jazz gig in Zagreb is definitely doable, Croatian and international jazz bands perform regularly. In saying that, there is no venue with a regular every day jazz programme and this list will shed light on the fact that certain venues do hold jazz concerts at least once a month. Bacchus Jazz Bar C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Sax D-3, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr. Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall I-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www. vip-club.hr. Zagreb Student Centre B-4, Savska 25, www. sczg.hr. Zvonimir Bajsić Studio Prisavlje 3 (Croatian Television), www.hrt.hr.

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Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There‘s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count‘s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

bb, www.zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it‘s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 18:00 (October), 09:00 - 16:00 (November, December), ticket office 09:00 - 17:00 (October), 09:00 - 15:00 (November, December). Admission 20-30kn. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors.

lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you‘ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. St Mark‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn‘t been touched since. Today you‘ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn‘t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You‘ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you‘re starting to understand is very unique too!

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured

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Photo by Kristina Vlakić

October - December 2013

WHAT TO SEE

Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you‘re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene

umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a seen-

WHAT TO SEE it-all-before‘ narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman‘s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović‘s photos of 1981‘s I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. The quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311, or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Day of the Dead The celebration of this, the „Day of the Dead“ (Dan mrtvih), is so impressively joyous and broad in this culture we‘re guessing you will be amazed. Every year on this date locals pay homage to friends and family that have died, trekking from wherever they live to the beautiful Zagreb cemetery Mirogoj in the early evening before the sun has gone down. They move as a great mass up the hill, walking together as a family or catching the never ending line of buses that have come together to move great numbers. The candles are so numerous it creates an effect that is almost like a second sunset, the glowing, flickering beauty seen from great distances. Of course flowers appear in great number and colourful abundance also. If you‘re in town this evening you absolutely must see the procession for yourself - it is both moving and tremendously beautiful. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

25.10 Friday

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia‘s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920‘s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Concert celebrating the Feast of All Saints’ Day I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. In remembering the holy day dedicated to those who have passed away, the Zagreb Philharmonics along with the Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir and special solo artists will perform G. Verdi‘s Messa da Requiem with Ivo Lipanović as conductor.Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 120kn.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U

Mirogoj, Photo by Kristina Vlakić

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Music in Churches Crkva sv. Katarine (St Katherine‘s Church)

C-1, Katarinin trg bb, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 50. This sweet sister is pretty in pink and is the essence of the term Baroque. No need to worry if you‘re broke either, checking it out is free of charge as is a dips worth of holy water. It‘s in the southeast corner of Gornji Grad. 24.10 Thursday Baroc‘k Me Amadeus Trio at 20:00 28.11 Thursday Antiphonus Vocal Ensemble at 20:00 12.12 Thursday Nataša Antoniazzo (mezzosopran), Višeslav Jaklin (organ) at 20:00

Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja (The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it‘s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it‘s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you‘ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don‘t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it‘s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tartars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It‘s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. It continues to this day. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. 10.11, 17.11, 24.11 Sunday Ante Knešaurek (organ), Pavao Mašić (organ) at 19:30.

October - December 2013

WHAT TO SEE

Horrible Histories

The Black Queen (Medvednica Nature Park Archives)

Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding). Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia. According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja, turned to stone. The miller‘s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man. The miller‘s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today. This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself. Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge). In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get Zagreb In Your Pocket

into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-sounding name. The Black Queen (Crna kraljica). There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on. The Witch from Grič (Grička vještica). Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”. Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch. The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her. The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale. He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer). Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women – and men – who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination. A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today. So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s upper town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica!

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Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Museum of Street Art www.muu.com.hr. Little by little, street art is coming to life in Zagreb. The Museum of Street Art is bringing art to parts of the city which until now didn‘t have much in the way of art or culture. Every year since 2010 there have been more and more local and international artists taking part in an event which, over a period of a couple of days, brings to life empty canvases in the shape of walls where fantastic murals and pictures appear, expressing thoughts, opinions, wishes and ideals. Thanks to these artistic interventions today the length of Branimirova ulica is a riot of colour, as are parts of Dugave and Siget. The last intervention in September 2013 painted the walls of the Jedinstvo Factory.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren‘t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sci-

ences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptoteka@hazu.hr, www.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Cho Cho

October - December 2013

WHAT TO SEE these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired

Top 5 Secret Things to see A portrait of the daughter of Samuel Berger.

Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters. Girl with a Bird. Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits Liber linteus Zagrebiensis. A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text. Located at the Archeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript. Stjepan Erdödy Jump. Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia. The Holy Trinity. This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr, www. mimara.hr. The city‘s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U 22.10 Tuesday Trio Amadeus Zagreb at 20:00 12.11 Tuesday Anđelko Krpan (violin), Milan Čunko (viola), Branimir Pustički (cello), Dalibor Cikojević (piano) at 20:00 17.12 Tuesday Lana Genc (piano) at 20:00.

French Pavilion (Francuski paviljon) B-4, Savska cesta 25

Stjepan Erdödy Jump, Photo by Karlo Drašković 1895 (MUO Archives)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

After many years of restorating, the renovated and partially reconstructed French Pavilion, which has not been in operation since World War II, finally opens in midOctober. The author of the renovation project is architect Alan Braun, whilst the pavilion itself was rebuilt according to its original appearance. The roof is an inverted cone shape (point down, like an ice cream cone), a bizarre and very curious phenomenon indeed. Architectually curious folk from all over the world come to Zagreb to see this. It was built by Bernard Lafaille in the mid 1930s as part of a competition, who said that his project is representative of the avant-garde construction of the period. Legend says that Lafaille became enraged when people claimed it wasn’t a sound design, and to disprove their doubting he took a bicycle to the roof and rode around up there for hours. The building was sponsored by the French government and was initially used by the French automoblie manufacturers as a showroom. As of late, it was used as a theatre, and in 1995 the famous writer Pascal Bruckner came to check it out to premier his movie and was absolutely thrilled by its design.

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PHOTO CONTEST 2013 My trip in Croatia

AND THE WINNER IS... Dear readers ,

Damir Rajle

Lo and behold October has arrived, the leaves are a riot of colour and it is the month in which we eagerly look forward to publishing the results of our joint Vienna Hotels and In Your Pocket photo competition aptly named, ‘My trip in Croatia’. We wholeheartedly thank all those who participated and sent us photos of their well spent time in our beautiful countr y. We received an astounding 1500 photos so you can just imagine the blood, sweat and tears behind choosing the ﬁnalists and eventual winners. From the serene photos, the special moments to the downright outrageous, witty and hilarious snaps, at times the hard working jury had to remind themselves of what the purpose of the competition was all about. In saying that, there had to be a winner and the process of choosing the ones that made it to the ﬁnal, the ones that stood out above the rest, the ones that captured that ‘special moment in time’ on their holiday travels and the ones that we thought deserved an accolade , can now be viewed on our web page at www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/zagreb . So the winner of the competition is Damir Rajle and his winning photo entitled ‘Pentecost – Gorjani, preparations of ljelje for the church feast of Pentecost’. Mr Rajle receives a two night package with breakf ast and a superior room for two people at Hotel Bristol, Opatija. Those who fancy photography or are developing a passion for it, we suggest you visit the following exhibitions : 15.09 Sun - 15.10 Tue

16.09 Mon– 27.10 Sun

01.10 Tue – 14.10 Mon

Photos at Žnidaršić - Portraits of

Hands – Vesna Špoljar

Julije Fr angen C-1, Stari Krovovi

Big Cats – National Geographic Exhibition

pub, Basaričekova Street 9 (Upper Town)

I-5, Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16

B-2, Likum (Galerija Ulrich), Dežmanov prolaz

GETTING AROUND

Public Transport

Buses

Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at http://www.zet.hr/tramvaj/.aspx. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for the night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver, on kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 6kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 3kn per hour. Martićeva 69 D-2, Palmotićeva 25 D-3, Ilica 45 B-2, Petrinjska 59 C-2, Langov trg D-1, Kvaternikov trg J-2, Tuškanac B-1, Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb C-4, Importanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 D-2, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 C-1, International (near BCI), Čazmanska C-4, Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 I-4, Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 D-3 Cvjetni Centre, Varšavska (B-2)

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr. Zagreb‘s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia‘s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia.

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Photo by Mario Radaković

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A post office.

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1)

456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European desti-

Street parking/SMS parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 8kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 4kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you‘re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you‘ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don‘t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you‘ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 160, 80 or 30kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office. Photo by Martina Salaj

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

nations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It‘s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Taxis Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.50kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

October - December 2013

SHOPPING

SHOPPING SHOPPING Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33

Shopping centres & Malls

70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Fashion Events 16.10 Wednesday - 19.10 Saturday

Perwoll Fashion.hr

I-5, Zagreb Fair (Pavilion 5), Avenija Dubrovnik 15, www.fashion.hr. One of the most important fashion events in Croatia, the 15th season of Perwoll Fashion. hr, will be lead by Romano Decker and Dejan Kutić. It will feature three models, Ana Maria, Ivana and Klara who will show off new designs by Croatian designers Branka Donassy, Ivica Klarić, I-gle, Robert Sever, LINK by Ogi Antunac & Zoran Mrvoš, Ivica Skoko, and many more. Don‘t miss out on this extraordinary event!

07.11 Thursday - 09.11 Saturday

Fashion Wardrobe

C-2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, www.modniormar.ttf.unizg.hr. It is every young designer‘s dream to find their place in the fashion world and be recognised for their work and the objective of this non-profit fashion event is exactly that. Fashion Wardrobe tries to promote, encourage and present young and upcoming Croatian designers to the world and the panel of international judges will reward those whose talent and creativity shines through their fashion designs.

Boudoir Rocking Baroque

Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps,

candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art galleries @telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every

Dark Red, Marina Marinski (You can buy small bowls at Zeleni Slon store, Lovački rog, Ilica 14)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Souvenirs

angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within’, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb’s designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lega-lega B-2, Masarykova 19, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals.

Zlatni Licitar Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough, the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia‘s cultural heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this colourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb and a classic souvenir. It is an attractive ornament that can be given as a gift to your loved ones to show your affection and warmth. Now, instead of being made by a baker, goldsmiths have transformed these symbolic hearts into dazzling pieces of jewelry. Their bright red colours have been combined with gold and silver to create necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Made using slightly different decorative styles, each golden licitar heart represents love in a unique way, with meanings behind each design, such as ‚love is the fire of life,‘ ‚love is the spirit of life,‘ ‚love is the foundation of life‘ and ‚love is the water of life.‘ As well, each heart can be further adorned with precious stones, rubies, sapphires, diamonds or corals to create a truly beautiful piece of jewelry. Show your affection for those you cherish in your heart with this time-honoured symbol of love. Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario C-1, Radićeva 10, zlatarna_mario@net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2013

SHOPPING

OLD TOWN SHOPPING

Photo Gallery

More style for less cash

raZGlednice C-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 566 43 13, www.kristijantabet.com. This is a must visit spot for any tourist (or resident) who finds themselves fascinated with the architecture and pace of life of the Croatian capital. It‘s small, to be sure, but within you will find photos, of all shapes and sizes, reflecting the aforementioned elements of the city. Some are rather straightforward, while others will have you mesmerised. Prices are set to suit all pockets and only great things lie ahead for this establishment. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line. The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. A Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A

At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Zig Zag C-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‚bear‘ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen

Kućarin spice and Croatian products store, C-1, Krvavi most 3, tel. (+385-1) 562 12 33, info@kucarin.hr, www.kucarin.hr.QOpen 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 08:00 – 14:00

Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5 (passage), tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, info@prostoreshop. com, w w w.prostoreshop.com.Q Open 12:00–20:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

Otvoreni atelier Lumezi C-1, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@ gmail.comQOpen 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00. Closed Sun.

Laudato Gallery D-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Impor tanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 464 68 88, www. galerije.laudato.hrQOpen 09:00 – 21:00, Sat 09:00 – 19:00. Closed Sun.

Ulični Ormar D-2, Jurišićeva 16 , tel. (+3851) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.comQOpen 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00. Closed Sun.

Otvoreni atelier Lumezi u Contempori Likum C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 26 64, atelierlumezi@gmail.comQOpen 12:00 – 19:00, Sat 10:00 – 14:00. Closed Sun.

Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1)

457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. They have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Izvorno.hr Jankomir 33 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) 098 198 56 53, www.izvorno.hr. If you want authentic Croatian products then come hence forth and choose from their great range. Perfect for gifts and whilst there, why not dabble into their fresh cakes made according to traditional recipes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www.naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Maja Vidović Paintings vidmaja@gmail. com tel. (+385-1) 91 5716898. Facebook: Maja Vidovic & Paintings

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