Zagreb In Your Pocket No72 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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ZAGREB July - September 2013

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events 9 Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay

A place to rest your weary head

Local flavour

Something to tickle your taste buds...

Dining & Nightlife

Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome CafĂŠs 41 Easily the best scene in the world! Nightlife 42 When you just gotta boogie

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city with a plethora of outdoor activities to choose from, take a look at page 49 for some sizzling recommendations.

What to see 44 All those things you mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss Escape the City

Day trips

Getting around

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Directory 59 The most essential support Maps & Index When the heat is on then the food gets cracking around Zagreb with numerous culinary festivities bringing out the best in local produce and grand old recipes that have stood the test of time. Tickle your taste buds on page 30.

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Transport map Street register City map City centre map Country map

61 62 63 64 66 July - September 2013

Foreword What a time of year it is! Welcome to our beautiful town during another hot European summer where tourists are seen following vivacious tour guides with water the number one held item or visitors also alternating city maps from left to right or up or down asking where is Cvjetni Square, or the best čevapi restaurant in town, or some other touristy question. All in all, you have come at a historical time for Croatia as we will be the 28th nation to enter the European Union come July 1st so if you happen to be in town, a grand spectacle is being prepared with Zagreb gracing many of the continents elite figures. Steering away from the EU for just a tad, do read up on our features linked to the Dolac market, the pacemaker of the city with all foods fresh and local to devour which has become tradition over the last century. There are many open air concerts and festivals this time of year, Summer on Stross is a cracking regular when walking up to the Old Town during the warm nights, there is always a performance to be seen. Don’t forget things do cool down just a pinch as we enter Autumn in September and things return to normality, yet probably an easier time to sightsee with the weather more appropriate. Wishing you a jolly journey as you ooze and cruise through zippy Zagreb! Cheerio!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja

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Editorial

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Krešimir Šporčić, Gordan Karabogdan. Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover Watching the changing of the guard, Photo by Inna Grubmair, winner of the photo competition Be local

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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13.4. - 29.9.2013. 13.4. - 28.9.

UPPER PPER TOWN IN THE PAST

Upper Town, Saturdays, 17:00 - 20:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

UPPER TOWN MUSICAL PANORAMA

Upper Town, St.Catherine’s Squre, Strossmayer Promenade, St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00 - 12:00 h

13.4. - 28.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Saturdays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

5.7. - 27.9.

DANCE EVENINGS - ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Fridays, 20:30 - 22:30 h

14.4. - 29.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -MAKSIMIR

13.4. - 29.9.

FOLKLORE PERFORMANCES

Kaptol, Ban Jelačić Square and Tkalčićeva Street, Saturdays, 10:00 - 12:00 h / Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

12.4. - 26.10.

KUMICE S DOLCA

Dolac Market, Fridays and Saturdays, 8:00 - 13:00 h

27.6. - 26.9.

THE STREET OF MUSIC AND FUN Tkalčićeva Street Thursdays and Fridays, 19:00 -23:00 h Saturdays, 11:00 -13:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD -

GUARD OF HONOUR OF THE CRAVAT REGIMENT St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 12:00 h

Maksimir Park - Belvedere, Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h from 7.7. 10:30 - 12:30 h

* In case of bad weather programs will be cancelled.

Zagreb Time Machine

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

Basics

arriving in zagreb Tourist information To u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n Centre C-2, Trg bana Jo-

sipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

Customs

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

National holidays January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www. porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

Roads

Street smarts

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

Toilets You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse. Let’s face it, we’ve all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Visas EU! Here we come! Since Croatia is becoming a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

July - September 2013

Culture & Events

history 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later renamed “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communist-controlled federal Yugoslavia. 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River

Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenthcentury national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

Rock & Pop Concerts

Fabre Prometheus, Photo by Gardenia Press (The World Theatre Festival Archives)

02.07 Tuesday

13.08 Tuesday

D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Brooklyn-based rock band fronted by Matt Berninger who is known for his distinctive baritone voice! Their music has an indie rock, post-punk revival zest and often includes moments of catchy instrumental arrangements. Their 2010 release ‘High Violet‘ topped the charts in the USA and UK! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 220 - 250kn.

K-2, Maksimir Stadium, Maksimirska 128. This Englishman does it all! A singer and songwriter, who is also an occasional actor, this artist is not only a member of the pop group, Take That, but is also a solo artist. He is the best-selling British solo artist in the UK and the best selling non-Latino artist in Latin America. Don‘t miss out on his first visit to Croatia in which he will be promoting his newest album, Take the Crown. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 259 - 1199kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

The National

12.07 Friday

Zdenka Kovačiček - A Tribute to Janis Joplin

J-4, Bundek Lake. Zdenka Kovačiček has the extraordinary ability to reproduce the unique voice of legendary blues singer, Janis Joplin. To commemorate Joplin‘s memory, Kovačiček will be performing her greatest hits, accompanied by the Blues Company band.

31.07 Wednesday

Iron Maiden - Maiden England World Tour

ZGH Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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H-5 , Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. The Maiden England World Tour is a concert tour by Iron Maiden, an English heavy metal band, from London. It began on June 21, 2012 in Charlotte, North Carolina and will continue until October 2, 2013 where the tour will come to an end in Santiago, Chile. Come watch this wonderful performance as Iron Maiden promotes their album, Seventh Son of a Seventh Son, in Zagreb. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 250 - 600kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

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Robbie Williams

05.09 Thursday

Leningrad Cowboys

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Formed in 1986, in a bar, as a joke about the declining powers of the Soviet Union, this Finnish rock band consists of 11 Cowboys and 2 Leningrad ladies. They perform songs in English using polka and progressive rock influences featuring themes such as rockets, Genghis Ghan and vodka, along with a mix of Russian folklore songs and cover songs from the Beatles to Led Zeppelin. This unique band is a must see! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 85 - 110kn.

www.inyourpocket.com July - September 2013

Culture & Events

Shonen Knife

02.10 Wednesday

Opera, Operetta & Ballet

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Joe Bonamassa, an American blues rock guitarist is returning to Zagreb three years after his first performance in Croatia. Join in on listening to this legendary blues man‘s newest album, Driving Towards the Daylight. This spectacular performance is a must see! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 270 - 300kn.

06.07 Saturday

Joe Bonamassa

05.10 Saturday

Peter Gabriel

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. English musician and humanitarian, Peter Gabriel, began his musical career, in 1967, with the rock band, Genesis, and has continued as a solo artist since the 70‘s. He is a human rights activist and even received the Man of Peace award from the Nobel Peace Prizes Laureates in 2006. Join him on his ‚Back to Front‘ tour celebrating the 25th anniversary since the release of his album, So. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 250 - 750kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Classical Music Concerts 19.09 Thursday

Evgeny Kissin

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Child prodigy, Evgeny Kissin, is a classical pianist from Russia. He has performed world-wide with renowned orchestras from the New York Philharmonic to the Berlin Philharmonic. He is best known for his interpretations of Frédéric Chopin, Sergei Rachmaninoff and Franz Liszt. You will be dazzled as his graceful fingers glide across the piano at this amazing performance. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 220 - 250kn.

An Opera under the Stars The 200th anniversary of the birth of Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner

D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Come relax in the cool summer breeze and enjoy a night under the stars listening to the Symphony Orchestra and HRT-a Choir. The concert will feature solo performances from Valentina Fijačko, Kristina Koolar, Evelin Novak, Martina Zadro, Dubravka Šeparović Mušović, Tomislav Mužek, Ljubomir Puškarić, Luciano Batinić and Ivica Čikeš.

05.10 Saturday

Eugene Onegin

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Don‘t miss out on seeing Tchaikovsky‘s legendary opera, Eugene Onegin, which he composed in 1879, based on Alexander Pushkin‘s novel by the same name. Directed by Deborah Warner and conducted by Valerij Gergijev, enjoy a relaxing evening listening to this classical opera.

Exhibitions 23.03 Saturday - 07.07 Sunday

Master Pieces from the Picasso Museum

C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. What a ‘bellissimo‘ treat for all art lovers! Fifty-six paintings and sculptures, as well as forty photos arrive from the Picasso Museum in Paris, one of the biggest Picasso art collections in the world. The exhibition will give visitors a glimpse into the artists‘ magnificent art work as well as life.

19.–22. 8., 20.30 / at 8.30 pm, Križanke

Briljantin

Mjuzikl (nova produkcija) / Musical (New Production) Produkcija / Production: Bronowski, Glasba i tekst / Music and Lyrics:

Jim JacoBs, WarrEn casEy Režija i koreografija / Director, Choreographer: mykal

rand

Ulaznice / Tickets: 49, 39 € Pokrovitelj / Sponsor 19. 8.:

Pokrovitelj / Sponsor 20. 8.:

Pokrovitelj / Sponsor 21. 8.:

Pokrovitelj / Sponsor 22. 8.:

Medijski pokrovitelj / Media Sponsor:

Kupovina ulaznica www.ljubljanafestival.si, www.eventim.hr i prodajna mjesta Eventima u Hrvatskoj. / Ticket sales www.ljubljanafestival.si, www.eventim.hr and Eventim sales points in Croatia. Pokrovitelji festivala / SponSorS of the feStival:

Glavni medijski Pokrovitelj / General Media SponSor:

Službeni prijevoznik / officiAL cArrier:

Glasses, Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship

West End, London

Medijski Pokrovitelji / Media SponSorS:

službeni avioprijevoznik / official airline:

Partneri LjubLjana FestivaLa 2013 / LjubLjana FestivaL Partners:

Osnivač LjubLjana FestivaLa je GradskO pOGLavarstvO LjubLjane. / The LjubLjana FesTivaL was Founded by:

Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship Počasni pokrovitelj Ljubljana Festivala 2013 je Gradonačelnik grada Ljubljane Zoran Janković. / The honorary sponsor of the Ljubljana Festival 2013 is the Mayor of the City of Ljubljana Zoran Janković.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events 06.06 Thursday - 01.09 Sunday

Tomaž Pandur

H-3, Lauba - The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, www.lauba.hr. Lauba was created to promote new forms of artistic expression by Croatian modern and contemporary artists and connect them with international contemporary artists. To celebrate its second birthday, it will host Pandur.Theaters, a production by Tomaž Pandur, a contemporary artist from Slovenia, who combines live performance and visual arts to express his ideas.

19.06 Wednesday - 22.09 Sunday

Na Sleme, na Sleme - 50 years of the Sljeme Cable Car

Evenings in Grič

A-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, info@tehnickimuzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. ‘Na Sleme, na Sleme, na Sleme‘ was first sang out, in 1966, at the first Kajkavski Festival. It eventually became the unofficial anthem for excursions on top of the hills surrounding Zagreb. During these excursions, the cable car became the most exciting attraction and was in function from July 27, 1963 - June 30, 2007. The Technical Museum in association with ZET, will celebrate 50 years of the Sljeme cable car, on July 27th.

28.05 Tuesday - 01.09 Sunday

Rudolf Klepač Master of the Bassoon- Celebrating 100 years since his birth

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. The year 2013 marks the hundredth anniversary since the birth of Bassoon master, Rudolf Klepač. Klepač began playing the Bassoon in 1926, at the age of 13 and throughout his career played with numerous orchestras, such as the symphony orchestra in Belgrade and today‘s Zagreb Philharmonic. Take a look at this exhibition which will display Klepač‘s personal heirlooms and photographs donated to the museum by his daughter.

05.06 Wednesday - 31.08 Saturday

Caravaggio - Supper at Emmaus

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@ muo.hr, www.muo.hr. Italy is welcoming Croatia to the EU, by displaying Caravaggio‘s masterpiece, ‚Supper at Emmaus,‘ at the Arts and Crafts Museum for three months. An event on the same magnitude as if the French loaned out the Mona Lisa. Don‘t miss out seeing this spectacular painting by the famed Italian artist rumored to have died from lead poisoning, due to the high volume of lead in his paints.

Fish bowl, Murano 16-17 c. Transparent Beauty - Glass from Croatian Museums (Photo by Srečko Budek)

Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, hismus@ hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. In 1967, a 16th century merchant ship was found 30 meters below sea level near the island of Gnalić. Discover the cargo brought onboard this ship in Venice as it prepared for its voyage to presentday Istanbul. The exhibition will feature decorative objects, such as glasses, ceramic dishes and chandeliers, as well as bronze cannons, featuring the Venetian Coat of Arms, found among the wreckage.

27.06 Thursday - 13.10 Sunday

Transparent Beauty - Glass from Croatian Museums

Shonen Knife

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Miroslav Šutej

20.06 2013 Thursday - 18.05 2014 Sunday

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19; Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10; The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5. Come marvel at the beautiful glass art pieces which will be on display at the Archaeological Museum, Mimara Museum and the Museum of Arts and Crafts. Don‘t worry about the extra cost of entering so many museums because you only need to buy one ticket to visit all three exhibitions!

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Retrospektiva / A Retrospective Muzej suvremene umjetnosti Zagreb / Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art Av. Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb 29/6 – 3/11/2013

Culture & Events Special events 13.04 Saturday - 30.09 Monday

The Changing of the Guard

C-1, Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats‘ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection‘. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

13.04 Saturday - 28.09 Saturday

The Zagreb Time Machine

Sedan kozlini, PIF - 46th International Puppet Theatre Festival Archives

03.07 Wednesday - 13.07 Saturday

Abandoned Buildings- exchanging aesthetics between Berlin and Rijeka

I-3,Goethe Institut, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, info@ zagreb.goethe.org, www.goethe.de. Rijeka and Berlin explored abandoned buildings in Rijeka to show the changes of the city over the years. This exhibition, which features photographs of abandoned buildings from both Rijeka and Berlin, shows the memories of a glorious past, which now lays in ruins. Take a look at these crumbling buildings through the lenses of these photographers as they document the past in Berlin and Rijeka.

09.07 Tuesday - 01.09 Sunday

Boris Ljubičić - Only Posters

J-4, NO Gallery, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Boris Ljubičić is a well-known name in the Croatian designing world. His creative style, which combines graphic design and artistic performances, has won a number of awards over the years. Don‘t miss out on seeing his ‘Only Posters‘ exhibition at NO Gallery.

Dolac, Ban Josip Jelačić Square, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

Small galleries Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-) 091 512 20 28, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68.Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hd-naiva.hr. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija. sczg.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Galler y (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerijaulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija@ morh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

Petar Dolić Portrait R Goldoni. Transparent Beauty - Glass from Croatian Museums (Photo by Goran Vranić)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events Cinemas Art kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Croatia‘s first digital art cinema in the new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children‘s films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad. Cineplexx Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 563 38 88, info@cineplexx. hr, www.cineplexx.hr. This modern cinema in the smart Kaptol Centar shopping mall also hosts some unconventional film cycles. Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. The comfortable, modern cinemas in the Branimir Centre and Avenue Mall shopping complexes usually screen the latest blockbusters. However, the Branimir Centre venue additionally hosts the Cinefest cycle of European productions.For reservations call 060 32 32 33. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Grabinger, Ganz New Festival Archives

15.05 Wednesday - 23.09 Monday

Strossmartre - The 13th Summer on Stross

B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www.ljetonastrosu.com. Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you‘ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

26.06 Wednesday - 06.07 Saturday

8th Park-in-Zagreb

D-1, Ribnjak Park, Ribnjak Youth Centre, www.parkinzagreb.com. Love the outdoors with some fine entertainment; attend this music and entertainment festival which offers a diverse program: concerts, theatre shows, workshops, exhibitions and performances…local and foreign artists present their work in a relaxed atmosphere. Q Free entrance.

Leningrad Cowboys

Zagreb In Your Pocket

‘Tko pjeva zlo ne misli’ Directed by Krešo Golik

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1)

481 07 14, www.kic.hr. KIC is the Zagreb Centre for Culture and Information, a hub for cultural activities of many kinds. The Art Cinema focuses on non-commercial film, documentary and animated film, and shows cycles by various directors and from the archives. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. An attractive old cinema, café and Saturday evening dance venue, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals. Follow them on Facebook! Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, w w w.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn.

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Culture & Events

LORA KV AR

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2. 7. – 1. 8. 2013. / July 2 – August 1, 2013

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OFONA SAKS ET RT VA IK

R O RIA M B

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ZAG RE BA ČK

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www.kdz.hr

The Zagreb Cultural Summer unite all the cultural events that take place in Zagreb during the summer. Concerts, exhibitons, th eatre, fil ms an d street per formance - all of this and more are gathered under a cultural umbrella named ZgKul that‘s Zagreb Cool. There‘s plenty for the little ones too in the Trešnja, Žar ptica and Zagreb Puppet Theatres. It all kicks off at the Bundek Lake on 28 June. Events featured include the Zagreb Cathedral Organ 21 June - 21 September, Summer Nights at Theatre Exit 02 July - 28 July and 29 August - 08 September, the Secrets of Grič interactive tour 17 May - until mid-September , the Miroslav Krleža Festival 01 July - 07 July, Gubec Beg - Rock opera 06 and 07 July, Footloose musical 14 July, Black House musical 17 and 18 July and the Histrion Summer 11 July - 31 August. For other events see our Culture & Events pages, and you‘ll also find more information in Croatian on www. kulturauzagrebu.hr.

BL M

ZgKul

Koncertna direkcija Zagreb

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

TAN G

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Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship

EVENINGS IN GRIČ

O BI N VAK

Meštrović Pavilion, Trg žrtava fašizma bb; Prsten Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb; Bačva Gallery, Trg žrtava fašizma bb. This event serves as a platform for research, discussion and analysis of the national art market. It encompasses all sorts of contemporary art production and tackles issues such as the black market in art, copyright, relations between privately owned galleries and artists and other intriguing topics.

The 48th Zagreb Salon

Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15; Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, Gavella Theatre, Frankopanska 8 - 10, www.eurokaz. hr. See contemporary theatre through dance, other artistic performances and phenomenon such as ‘iconoclastic theatre‘, post-mainstream, body art and contemporary circus just to mention a few… Local and international productions are abundant. See the schedule!

Eurokaz -International Festival of New Theatre

MERITAS

GRIČU DE

26.06 Wednesday - 20.07 Saturday

VEČERI NA

Thumbelina, Photo by Ivan Špoljarec, International Puppet Theatre Festival Archives

26.06 Wednesday - 03.07 Wednesday

ANES BL GIT O

ATRIJ GALERIJE KLOVIĆEVI DVORI • CRKVA SV. KATARINE • TVORNICA KULTURE KLOVIĆ COURT ATRIUM • CHURCH OF ST. CATHERINE • CULTURE FACTORY

Culture & Events

CROATIAN HISTORY MUSEUM 02.07 Tuesday - 22.08 Thursday

Open Film Festival Travno

J-5, Božidara Magovca 17 (The screenings will be held on the east side of the MCUK building, at the Mamutica), www.mcuk.hr/hr/component/k2/item/166-otvorenifilmski-festival-travno.html. This film festival is intended to introduce people of all ages to the non-commercial film industry by featuring a combination of professional and amateur movies outdoors. The Tuesday films are intended for primary school kids, while the Thursday films for high school and university students along with all those who feel young at heart. Get in touch with the kid in you and come out to this film festival with your family and friends! Q Tuesdays and Thursdays 19:30 - 21:30.

Gnalić

Treasure of a 16 th Century Sunken Ship

03.07 Wednesday - 05.07 Friday

Zagreb Tourfilm Festival

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, www.zagreb-tourfilm.com. A staggering film and documentary anthology shot in the most must-see of Croatian tourist spots, this wonderful and original initiative aims at promoting tourism in a most refreshing way. While motivating travel promoters, the films also inspire any spectator with the country‘s ‘lost pearls,‘ just waiting to be discovered. Q Admission free.

Selection from the collection “CARGO OF A 16TH CENTURY SUNKEN SHIP” in the Biograd na Moru Heritage Museum Rudolf Klepač Master of the Bassoon- Celebrating 100 years since his birth

28.06 Friday - 06.07 Saturday

Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival

Tuškanac Summer Stage; Plateau above the Tuškanac Car Park; Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; CineStar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, www.fantastic-zagreb.com. Let‘s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival organized by the most quality-demanding movie theaters in town. It‘s an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.

02.07 Tuesday - 01.08 Thursday

Evenings in Grič

The atrium of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4; St. Catherine Church, Trg Katarine Zrinske, www.kdz.hr. For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concerts performed by renowned Croatian and interational musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb‘s Lower and Upper Town.

Meritas, Evenings in Grič

16.07 Tuesday - 21.07 Sunday

The 47th International Folklore Festival

C-2, Upper Town, Jelačić Square, tel. (+385-1) 450 11 94, www.msf.hr. Folklore groups swarm to the capital‘s main squares and picturesque parts accentuating their costumes and dances. This year‘s event is dedicated to Croatia‘s entry into the EU so the focus will be on common European dances such as promenades, contra dances, quadrilles, cotillions, mazurkas, furlanas, waltzes, polkas and more.

31.08 Saturday

International Bat Night

Zagreb Tour Film Festival Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Medvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, info@pp-medvednica.hr, www.pp-medvednica.hr. Interested in learning more about the way bats live? Now you can at the 17th International Bat Night. Each year, ‘A Night of Bats,‘ is organized by EUROBATS and takes place in more than 30 countries. During this event, fun facts about bats are revealed through presentations, exhibitions and bat walks. Don‘t miss out on this extraordinary event taking place this August.

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June 20th 2013 • May 18th 2014 OPENING HOURS Monday – Friday: 10 am – 6 pm Saturday & Sunday: 10 am – 1 pm

www.hismus.hr

Culture & Events

Evenings in Grič

09.09 Monday - 13.09 Friday

10.09 Tuesday - 05.10 Saturday

B-1, Tuškanac Summer Stage. The organization Ja BiH, is hosting its very first program in Zagreb. It will include a large rock concert featuring bands from Sarajevo and klape from Mostar, along with a Film Festival. Come experience Bosnian culture in the heart of Croatia!

Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita; Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 45 61, www. zagrebtheatrefestival.hr. Immerse yourself in an array of local and international performances at the 11th World Theater Zagreb Festival. It will host productions by some of the world‘s most celebrated theatre directors. Don‘t miss out on seeing these spectacular shows from around the globe!

JA BiH ... 5 days of Sarajevo in Zagreb

10.09 Tuesday - 14.09 Saturday

PIF - 46th International Puppet Theatre Festival

tel. (+385-1) 660 16 26, pif@mcuk.hr, www.pif.hr. Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb‘s streets, squares and theatres between September 10 - September 14. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!) Performers from all over the world will perform both adults‘ and children‘s plays.

The World Theatre festival

14.09 Saturday - 22.09 Sunday

Ganz New Festival

B-4, Student‘s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.ganznovi. sczg.hr. The work of new and innovative artists is showcased at the Ganz for both public and professional appreciation. Poets, musicians, dancers, dramatists and animators are among the local artists whose dazzling works herald a promising future and a spectacular festival performance. Q Free entrance!.

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24.09 Tuesday - 29.09 Sunday

International Experimental Film and Video Festival B-4, Student‘s Centre, Savska 25, www.25fps.hr. Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.

28.09 Saturday - 29.09 Sunday

The 8th Medieval Days on Mount Medvednica

Medvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 63 17, www.pp-medvednica.hr. Is this for the faint hearted? The glory of chivalry returns as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous jousting tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking witches about!

16.07 Tuesday - 31.07 Wednesday, 24.08 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday , 01.09 Sunday - 13.09 Friday

Amadeo Scene

B-1, Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00/481 69 08, www. scenaamadeo.hr. A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatre in Zagreb called the ‚Amadeo Theatre‘ opened in 1797. This year‘s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue. Q Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00. Tickets 50 - 90kn.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Joe Bonamassa

July - September 2013

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called „200 Years of Croatian Art“ - that‘s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10

Galleries

S. Arena, F. Sfraneli, Photo by Gardenia Press (The World Theatre Festival Archives)

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you‘ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it‘s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it‘s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 14:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U

Pula Film Festival

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you‘ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Open until July 10:00-20:00. U

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The

Zagreb In Your Pocket

15.07 Monday - 29.07 Monday

Pula in Zagreb

B-1, Tuškanac Summer Movie Theatre. Pula in Zagreb brings films from the Pula Film Festival, marking the summery of the festival‘s main programme.

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21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it‘s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project‘s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world‘s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples‘ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. June - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@hazu. hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that‘s indisputable. When he wasn‘t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is

Othello Tania Kelley. Photo by Gardenia Press (The World Theatre Festival Archives)

Miroslav Šutej - A Retrospective 29.06 Saturday - 03.11 Sunday

J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385 - 1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www. msu.hr. Miroslav Šutej was born on April 29th, 1936, in Duga Resa, which is between Rijeka and Karlovac. He studied at Zagreb’s Academy of Fine Arts, graduating in 1961, before movi n g o n to K r s to Hegedušić’s Master’s Workshop, in which time he won a Grand Prix for his painting ability. He remained in Paris for a n u m b er o f years, before returning to Zagreb to take up a teaching post at his Alma M a te r. H e re, h e would have a hand Zigurat 1968 in the design of the Croatian coat of arms as well the Kuna banknotes. His work was never conventional, and has been associated with ideas of imagination, creativity, humour, as well as

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Bum-bum, 1967 with unusual geometric abstracts utilising optical effects as well as the forces of physics Šutej’s first solo exhibition was in 1962, in Paris, which drew the attention of that era’s masters and over the coming half century he continued to present new and more interesting pieces. His extremely creative art has left a visible mark on the Croatian art scene along with one of the most distinctive artistic oeuvre of contemporary Croatian art. Šutej’s works are part of collections in the world’s leading galleries and museums such as London’s Tate Gallery, the Museum of Modern Art in New York and in the collections of Zagreb’s and Rijeka’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Šutej died near Krapina on May 13th, 2005.

July - September 2013

Where to stay

Culture & Events Top summer events 07.08 Wednesday - 09.07 Tuesday

Terraneo Festival

Park Orsula Music Festival Archives If you have enjoyed our choice of events in Zagreb and now wish to visit the Dalmatian Coast or the many other tourist destinations in Croatia‘s mainland, we bring you an array of events that will undoubtedly thrill your tourist delights:

Šibenik, www.terraneofestival.com. Terraneo shines once again with a three day mega programme swomping two huge stages, an open air party zone and two indoor club venues that ought to provide entertainment galore! Pitch a tent, or even get involved with the ecological programme on offer, going green is an essential key with eco workshops and organised bike rides. A shuttle bus service will run from the City of Šibenik to the festival venue. Musically, the bands vary in genre with indie, new wave, post punk, and electro pop to heavy rock. The line-up includes The Prodigy, My Bloody Valentine, Calexico, Dubioza Kolektiv,

15.06 Saturday - 01.09 Sunday

Park Orsula Music Festival

Dubrovnik, www.parkorsula.du-hr.net. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula‘s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various Croatian and international musical performers throughout the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from this amphitheatre which holds 350 seats and is set on a 200 metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus. A perfect combination of location and excellent music puts this Festival on everybody‘s to-do list!

Terraneo Festival Archives Darkwood Dub and a jolly whole lot more. Ohhh… a diverse DJ programme in various hangars and bars is the icing on a hot sunny summer day.

23.08 Friday - 01.09 Sunday

Špancirfest

Varaždin, spancirfest.com. Heading North? Then don‘t miss the series of special and entertaining events held in Varaždin, one of the most beautiful baroque cities in Croatia. This festival is growing in size and stature and watch as the entire city becomes a stage.

14.09 Saturday - 21.09 Saturday

Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film, info@splitfilmfestival.hr, www.split-

Ultra Europe Festival Archives

12.07 Friday - 14.07 Sunday

Ultra Europe Festival

Poljud Stadium, 8. Mediteranskih igara 2, Split; Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort, island Hvar, ultraeurope. com. This destination music festival will have you rocking for three days to musical talents, Adam Beyer, Nicky Romero, Luciano, Reboot, Jamie Jones, Deniz Koyu, and many more. Taking place on the island Hvar, for 1 day, and at Poljud, Split, for 2 days, don‘t miss out on enjoying these musicians in paradise.

filmfestival.hr. Throughout the years Split Film Festival / International Festival of New Film, which was founded in 1996, has grown into an interesting and important international manifestation which promotes the art of the moving image through its competition sections and numerous special programmes by favouring creative, innovative, independent, personal, abstract, radical, etc. work of all genres and lengths whether it‘s involving traditional film techniques, or the latest technology of the electronic image. The opening of the festival will be at the Central Cinema whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman Cinema, Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, and the MKC exhibition space in Dom mladeži. Movies are scheduled daily from 17:00 to 23:00. Part of the programme is free; otherwise it is 20kn per ticket.

29.07 Monday

Carlos Santana

Jazine, Zadar. Don‘t miss out on this unforgettable performance by Santana, a Latin music influenced rock band, which was founded in San Francisco, during the late 1960‘s, by the lead guitarist Carlos Santana. Enjoy listening to the reunion of his classic lineup of musicians who played with him in Woodstock in 1969.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. Everything you‘d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they‘re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Dogs weighing up to 20 kg are free of charge whereas all other pets (including dogs) come at a cost of 30€ per day. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €105 - 150, 28 suites €175 - 285, 23 Executive Rooms €130 - 175, 1 Presidential Suite €1100 - 1500). PTJHAR6UFLGB� KDXCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin. zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It‘s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €112 - 157, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €162 - 207, 1 Presidential Suite €1100 - 1500, 19 Executive Suites €247 - 292, 2 Delux Suites €547 - 592). PZOTJHAR6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhhh

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Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1)

469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/ day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHA� R6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €90 - 116, 142 doubles €99 - 124, 4 suites €133 - 250). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb‘s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR� 6ULGKW hhhh

July - September 2013

Where to stay Old-School charm

Symbol key

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel.

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb J-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com. Located in Zagreb‘s business district, it‘s only a few kilometers from the city center. Decorated in a sleek and modern style, this chic hotel has 152 guestrooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking a spectacular panoramic view of the city. During your stay, get your heart rate up at the fitness center or just kick back your feet and relax at the indoor pool and sauna. For a quick fix on any shop-a-holic urges, Green Gold Shopping Center is located nearby, along with plenty of restaurants to satisfy your food cravings. Pets allowed. Breakfast included. Parking 15 €. Q152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHA� R6UFLGDCwW Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q234 rooms (102 singles €135, 91 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 33 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Presidential Suite €220). POTJHA6UFLG� BKXW hhhh Hotel International C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 88 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international.hr. This elegantlydesigned hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (177 doubles €130, 8 triples €209, 1 suite €232, 20 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). POTHAR6U� FLGKDwW hhhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Where to stay (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info@ esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 35€/day. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €119 - 194, 48 Delux Rooms €138 - 178, 13 Delux Suite €209 - 249, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHA� R6UIFLEGBKDW hhhhh Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace. hr, www.palace.hr. It’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (50 singles €115, 66 doubles €130, 3 suites €265, 4 Junior Suites €200). PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh

Homestay Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483

95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). PALGK

Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central. hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone‘s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren‘t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €67 - 80, 29 doubles €87 - 101, 5 triples €120 - 134, 4 Junior Suites €147 - 170). POTJHAR6W hhh new

Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax

(+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www. hoteljadran.com.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, many of the hotel rooms overlook one of the oldest streets in the city, Vlaška. Enjoy the view of the busy day-to-day activities of locals as they travel to and from the city center, while overlooking Zagreb‘s Cathedral in the distance. Only a few minutes‘ walk from the main square, this modern and sleek hotel, offers the luxuries of a flat-screen TV, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. Its central location is prefect for easy access to the main tourist sites. Q49 rooms (44 singles €74, 44 doubles €85, 5 triples €98). PZJAR6ULGKW hhh

Hostels Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/

(+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can‘t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhood-style courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city‘s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 26 dorm beds, 12 - 20€ per person. PJNGW Hostel Arena H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+3851) 642 19 50, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostel. arena@zgh.hr, www.nazor.hr. Set in the RemetinecLanište district, this hostel is a stone‘s throw from Arena Zagreb. It accommodates individuals and groups, has its own restaurant and car park too. Public transport (bus/ tram) are close by and you are a mere15 minutes from the city centre. Q 261 dorm beds, 127 - 195kn per person. ALGBKXW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there‘s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there‘s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARULGW

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July - September 2013

local flavour

Breitenfeld, What our forefathers used to eat

Food Markets If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won‘t want to miss the farmers‘ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you‘ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you‘re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you‘re not short-changed or given spoiled produce? Don‘t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an openair market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It‘s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city‘s markets they‘ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the

Photo by Romeo Ibrišević and Edi Kirschenheuter

Zagreb In Your Pocket

local flavour coast where it‘s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun. See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That‘s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn‘t raised on artificial substrate so it‘s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it‘s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they‘re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that‘s a trick to add weight on the scales). The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it‘s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it‘s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It‘s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you‘re a vegetarian, you‘ll want to avoid the meat section where you‘ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it‘s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there‘s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Opatovina 35, Tel. +385 1 4880 209 Kulinarijat - a dynamic culinary concept and home to new dimensions of taste

Kulinarijat a new culinary attraction in old Upper town that offers a completely different way of enjoying food. Kulinarijat the dynamic culinary concept designed as a restaurant, patisserie, cafe and a deli shop, where, at any time of the day, you can enjoy modernized international and traditional Croatian dishes. Have a coffee and a cake in the morning, daily special at

Tomac, Jastrebarsko Tourist Board Archives Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (sviježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with papr ika, nettle, herbs or made with goat‘s or sheep‘s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island. A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you‘ll meet you‘ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you‘re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There‘s fish

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to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all. At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you‘ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opativina and you‘ll find stalls selling cheap clothing. Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn‘t changed in the past 30 years; it‘s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day‘s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro. The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more. So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

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affordable prices for lunch, light snack in the evening or a full a la carte dinner in the evening. You can enjoy your visit to Kulinarijat in the uniquely decorated interior which combines modern look with hand-picked antique pieces or relax on one of two terraces. Not only will you remember your experience to the restaurant but you can also take it with you as edible souvenirs - homemade jams and biscuits that will always remind you of Zagreb, Croatia and Kulinarijat.

Local Dishes For centuries, Zagreb was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire so it‘s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you‘ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals. But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples. Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there‘s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn‘t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions.

Top restaurant in Zagreb Bistro Apetit B-1, Jurjevska 65a, tel. (+385-1) 467 73 35, cabalier@zg.t-com.hr, www.apetit.hr. The menu is gem-like in its perfection: a small selection of imaginative dishes tailored to the season. The dishes themselves are an essay in flavour, texture and presentation. Headed up by Viennese chef Christian Cabalier, the wine list is also fabulous and the desserts to die for. A place to push the boat out: pricey, but worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 - 15. (85 135kn). ALGBW July - September 2013

Restaurants

Local flavour most widespread, but if you find potato (krumpir), pumpkin (buće), marrow (tikvica), spinach / chard (zeljanica) or apple (jabuka) you should certainly give them a try. Another oriental-inspired dish that‘s a firm favourite is čevapi - fried fingers of seasoned mince served in a bread roll, best eaten with raw onion for the full effect. Fried fish is another budget option: a plate of fried small fish (girice, papaline), or squid rings will set you back just 15kn from the little kiosk by the entrance to the market at Trešnjevka, for example. For 5kn more you get a glass of wine too! Bargain. There are plenty of places selling sandwiches which are really tasty served warm (topli sendvič). One of the best is Bonita on Cvjetni trg, which also sells pancakes. Close by on Varšavska, Wok by Matija serves a range of healthy Asian dishes on the fly, including vegetarian; and in Petrićeva ulica Patto Gusto serves quick pasta dishes with a choice of sauces. A healthy snack you can find on Cvjetni trg and Ilica is boiled or roast sweetcorn in late summer and roast chestnuts in autumn. And the sweet tooths among you should head for Tkalčićeva ulica where little mobile kiosks sell fritule (like miniature doughnuts) or you can satisfy your sugar craving in a pancake parlour.

Culinary Events 23.08 Friday - 25.08 Sunday

What our forefathers used to eat Somethin g you mi gh t find on lun ch time menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak. This is an all-in-one meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings. Then there‘s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that‘s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk. Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy. You can try these foods in Zagreb‘s traditional-style restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you‘d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locally-reared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

Street Food Street food has become a hit in the big cities of countries such as the US and UK in recent years, but the trend of serving high-quality cuisine in ad-hoc locations hasn‘t quite taken off yet in Zagreb. Perhaps the closest you‘ll get is a little zalogajnica - a simple and quick restaurant for workers usually serving just a few dishes during the day. However, there are types of food which have become widely available which are eaten on the move and are worth sampling. Burek is a filo-pastry pie with a variety of fillings that is traditionally from Bosnia but is almost ubiquitous in Croatia. You can buy it in most bakeries where it can tend to the dry side; a better bet is a small piterija restaurant or fast food spots (sometimes found at markets) that only serves burek. The meat (meso) and cheese (sir) versions are

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Vrbovec. Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our folks used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there‘s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music. For more info see www.tz-vrbovec.hr or contact the Vrbovec Tourist Board, Trg Petra Zrinskog 7a, Vrbovec, tel. (+385-1) 279 16 61, tzvrbovec@tzzz.hr. 07.09 Saturday

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 23:30. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke‘ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 130kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica‘s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it‘s great news that they‘ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (68 - 130kn). PTAGB Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika.hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it‘s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 20 - August 20. (70 - 130kn). PJAGBW K pivovari H-3, Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 375 18 08, info@ kpivovari.com, www.kpivovari.com. A Zagreb institution

Jaska Wine Celebration

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6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi since 1893. The name means “At the Brewery”, because, beer-loving friends, the restaurant is part of the Ožujsko brewery! Traditional Croatian food, including light snacks, and oceans of the foaming stuff, both local and foreign. Catering facilities for large groups and conferences. QOpen 09:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (30 - 90kn). PALGBXW Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). ALEGBW Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it‘s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGBW

Cušpajz C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50

Sveta Nedelja. A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja‘s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test! Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel. (+385-1) 337 39 19, info@svetanedelja.hr, www.svetanedelja.hr. September 2013

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P Air conditioning

Chic & Cheerful

Something fishy!

Jastrebarsko. To the southwest of Zagreb, the pleasant town of Jastrebarsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly picturesque wine-producing region. Every September, the locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great opportunity to try some of the excellent local wines, culinary specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart from that, there‘s a full programme of entertainment laid on - it‘s a truly jolly occasion. Jastrebarsko Tourist Board, Strossmayerov trg 4, Jastrebarsko, tel. (+385-1) 627 29 40, info@ tzg j.hr, www.tzg j.hr.

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Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It‘s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). B

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45. Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you‘ll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 21 - August 18. PB Lari & Penati D-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati.hr. Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you‘ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the lastest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 15 - 18. (30 - 90kn). PAGBSW Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 7 - 28. (70 - 90kn). PNB

July - September 2013

Restaurants

International new

American Steak & Grill House C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), info@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www. hotel-dubrovnik.hr. For a restaurant based in one of Zagreb’s busiest hotels, slap bang in the middle of the city, this place is deceptively sedate. Well air conditioned, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, and wonderfully spacious for the taller diner this American Steak and Grill House will prepare and cook your meat to specific recipes. Getting hungry just typing this. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (39 - 139kn). PAGBW Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‚oasis of enlightened hedonism‘ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu‘s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 5 - 15. (60 - 130kn). PAGW new

Papa’s B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-) 098 980 50 00,

info@papas.hr, www.papas.hr. This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:30 - 23:00. A Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig‘ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his

Restaurants Breakfast Day Cafe Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50,

info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr. One look at these wraps and you‘re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. QOpen 07:00 21:00. Closed Sun. Breakfast from 07:30 - 10:30. Closed July 29 - August 17. (9 - 29kn). Imperial Café Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 3pm to 6pm except Sundays! The 18kn coffee n cake or tea n cake is a winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 45kn). Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating. Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli… Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn). PJABW exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGBW Žlica i vilica D-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+385-1) 457 27 70, info@zlicaivilica.hr, www.zlicaivilica.hr. Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for? QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 3 - 20. (28 - 60kn). AGBSW

Pizza Baschiera H-4, Selska cesta 215, tel. (+385-1) 369

89 99, www.baschiera.hr. Close to Jarun, it used to be the favourite pizza locale. The pastel turquoise and orange seems to take seven years off your life and will have you saying inappropriate and immature things in no time. Youngsters love it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (28 - 70kn). PAGBSW Duksa K-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, duksa.pizza@gmail.com. It‘s not every day you come

Best shade Summer is coming, the flowers are blossoming and the warm days are upon us. So break the shackles devoted readers as this is the time of year to ventre out and simply sit and relax on some of Zagreb‘s wonderful terraces, drink coffee and enjoy an easy lunch. As in many cities, there are some terraces that have a faithful following where people just love to spend a part of their leisure time, so we thought it best to let you in on some of those to ultimately visit: Caffe & Gallery Lav C-1, Opatička 2. Caffe bar Vidikovac K-2, Maksimirski perivoj bb. Lemon bar C-2, Gajeva 10. Terrace in the garden of the Archaeological Museum.

Oleander terrace of the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1. Restaurant Gallo B/C-3, Hebrangova 34. Restaurant Zrinski above J-1, Vinec 3, Remete. Šestinski lagvić Restaurant above I-1, Šestinska cesta bb.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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across good pizza. When we say „good“ we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. So we‘re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. Duksa‘s pizza menu offers about ten original „designs“ with tomato sauce („red pizza“) and a similar number without sauce („white pizza“). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example „Shitake Happens“. Buon appetito! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn). PAGBW

Meet the Meat Cvjetno I-4, Cvjetna cesta 21a, tel. (+385-1) 619 51 42. Don‘t run away when you see this place, it doesn‘t look great, but they have probably the best šiš čevapi in town. It‘s clean, has decent service, portions are big, and it‘s not expensive. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 38kn). NGB Jarunska oaza G-4, Matije Ljubeka 3b, tel. (+385-) 098 62 29 56. An oasis for thirsty bathers on Trešnjevka island, where you can also fill up on a hearty meal of barbecued meats. Open only during summer season from May 1 - September 15. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 50kn). NB Kod dede F-4, Prečko 5c, tel. (+385-1) 381 75 37. Carnivores take note, Kod dede (“Grandad‘s place”) is a popular grill for local favourites ćevapi and pljeskavica (meat patties), steaks and mixed grills. Hop on tram 17 from the main square heading west, skip out at Prečko and prepare for the start of a long love affair with delicious, juicy meat. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. (34 - 80kn). PLNGBW Mačak J-4, Lastovska 25, tel. (+385-1) 615 72 88. Mačak, which means tomcat, is anything but wild and untamed. Au contraire, this roštilj offers a pleasant rustic environment as well as vegetarian and meaty versions of their popular beans. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 40kn). PNGB NK Sava H-4, Gredice 157, tel. (+385-1) 363 37 77. The meat here is traditionally prepared, which means it has been specially spun for you on a spit to the point of perfection. The ćevapčići, sausage-shaped spiced meat popular in the region and most traditional of all Croatian meat items, is excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 60kn). AGB NK Trnje J-4, Trg kardinala Šepera 3, tel. (+3851) 615 12 22. A favourite for the locals because of its miniscule price and massive portions of pure and unadulterated plates of meat. Vegetarians will cry their eyes out here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (30 - 80kn). PALGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won‘t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 3 - 26. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari kotač G-4, Petrovaradinska 20, tel. (+3851) 388 27 68. It‘s not possible to go hungry from this place, because they have gigantic portions! Very tasty, great service, we were amaized how crowd it is, every day. Reserve in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (35 100kn). NB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

July - September 2013

Restaurants Ethnic

Asia

Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia.doo@gmail.com, www.asia.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it‘s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There‘s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it‘s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). PAGB Bazaar K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 798 05 22, info@restaurant-bazaar.com, www.restaurant-bazaar. com. Jump off the tram at Maksimirska and dive into Zagreb‘s own Arabic dining oasis for one-of-a-kind blends of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine. Let your senses rest awash in the dozens of spices enveloping each lamb and lentil delight. Ask your server for fresh flat bread and a delicate fruit or honey desert. Hugely popular for their cafeteria-style lunches, reservations are recommended. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. July - August 15 Open 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (25 - 85kn). PAVSW Delizie Libanesi Radnička cesta 48, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 39, info@delizie-libanesi.com, www.delizielibanesi.com. For centuries, the Lebanese have travelled around the world sharing their amazing cuisine. Now, they have finally come to Zagreb. Enjoy some authentic hummus or baba ghanouj appetizer followed by kafta or shish taouk meat and delight your palate in an explosion of flavours. Decorated in a simple but classy style, the white walls adorned with oriental rugs create the perfect atmosphere for meals and special events, like belly dancing! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (75 - 120kn). PAGBW Jazz.ba Chevap B-2, Varšavska 8, tel. (+385-) 091 955 50 01, www.jazzbachevap.com. Now you can enjoy the tastes and smells of Sarajevo in the center of Zagreb. Famed as the city where the east meets the west, Sarajevo‘s delicious kitchen made its culinary mark by combining Austrian, Hungarian, Italian and Turkish dishes. Try out some Sarajevski chevapi with a side of ajvar or kajmak. To satisfy your sweet spot, have a piece of Bosnian baklava or tufahija, that will simply melt in your mouth. Sit back and enjoy your meal at a copper covered table in a spacious, arched alcove. Hardwood floors with throw rugs and pictures of Sarajevo give a warm and homey feel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 4 - 12. (12 - 45kn). Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina. hr. Very authentic, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALEGW

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. (+3851) 618 76 18, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of Radnička and Vukovarska, this Chinese restaurant is pleasently clean and bright.The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service. QOpen 11:00 23:00. (25 - 130kn). PALGB Sofra K-4, Radnička cesta 50 (Green Gold Centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra. hr. Once you‘ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (24 - 98kn). PALGB

Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@ takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you‘re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you‘re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you‘ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. July 20 - August 20 Open 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (70 - 180kn). PAG

Asia

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Restaurants

Restaurants Pizzeria 6 J-3, Medulićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 484 62 48/

(+385-1) 484 65 62, www.pizzeria6.hr. Apart from crusty pizzas and tempting pasta dishes, they also do fried and grilled fish, including papaline and gavuni, which are deepfried little fishies to be munched whole, a great snack for as little as 15kn. A good place to go as well for a plate salad. Delivery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Closed July 29 - August 16. (32 - 70kn). PAGS

Seafood

Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16. With

Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 4 - 18. (90 - 150kn). PJALGBW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PARGB Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma‘s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don‘t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGW

a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city‘s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed August 3 - 16. (38 350kn). PAVGB

Vegetarian corner Elixir Raw Food Club Ribnjak 8, tel. (+385) 091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood.com, www.artofrawfood. com. The first thing to note is that this is a members club, not a restaurant, so you will need to call ahead in order to reserve your table; membership will be taken care of once you arrive. Everything on offer is naturally prepared, with no preservatives, and indeed no actual cooking. Staff will be more than happy to recommend something to your taste, and certainly the menu is quite varied and unique for Zagreb. For the less adventurous there are eminently palatable snacks and drinks which even the most devout carnivore will enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (48 - 65kn) PW Green Point C-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67. Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot. ‚Green is in‘ even in Zagreb and satisfies your urges for happy, healthy, dine-and-dash choices. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). AW

Mighty fine wine Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. „Good Wine“ is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 20:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 5 - 18. (55 - 125kn). PALGBW Speakeasy C-2, Bogovićeva 4 (Neboder Passage). You would be forgiven for thinking it bigger than it is at first sight, but this is on account of some wonderfully positioned mirrors which somehow give you the sense of the era of prohibition, helped in no small part by the presence of a basement section. This particular Speakeasy is a welcome addition to the City Centre hostelries, with ample seating both indoors, and out. The floor is made from wine crates yet nothing quite so haughty rubs off on the venue or its staff. The cool interior of the Neboder building might prove refreshing in the summer, but they should also provide the customer with ample viewing as the Christmas shopping period gathers pace. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu,Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. BXW

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July - September 2013

cafÉs

Restaurants

MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Small plates and sweet treats

Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84

49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you‘ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Closed July 29 - August 18. CPGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 481 73 21, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica‘s cakes are intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. Also at Barčev trg 16 (J-5, Utrina), tel. (+385-1) 669 88 88. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Closed July 29 - August 11. PTJNGB Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‚n‘ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. NGBW Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@ meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. A tiny little gem in Vlaška, we highly recommend you make a trip for a pick‘n‘mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 15 - August 4. PNG

Millennium C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 50, info@slasticarnica-millennium.hr, www.slasticarnica-millennium.hr. It‘s not just the taste of the ice cream that drives us wild, it‘s also the sight of the billows of ice cream like multi-coloured clouds laced with chocolate, fruit sauce and nuts: mmmmmmm, slaver. Presentation is everything, after all. Try the “Crick-o-Crick” flavour, we dare you. Warning: there is no turning back. The seating area outside is particularly stylish. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it‘s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGW

Pisano ispod slike

Šime D-3, Petrinjska 61, tel. (+385-1) 481 94 40, slas-

Photo by Marko Lokas

Zagreb In Your Pocket

ticarnica.sime@gmail.com, www.slasticarnica-sime. hr. Around the corner from central train station is Šime, a recently redecorated café and dessert shop. The view from the giant terrace will keep you entertained as you lick away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 15kn). PNGB Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@ torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol‘s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! Also in Babonićeva 121(Šalata) E-1, tel. 099 343 41 15. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PNGB

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Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. JBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 22 - August 18. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00. PJGW K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. July 15 - August 15 Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX Lav Gallery & Caffè C-1, Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 2108. Between St. Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate, this tucked-away café has a great view that is too often overlooked. The delicious teas, either in a stately service or refreshingly iced, make it a perfect spot in any weather. Lav’s antique décor and local artists’ gallery adds to the dignified elegance of any visit to Upper Town. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. B

Art Side of Cafés Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb‘s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner‘s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you‘ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can‘t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJAGBW Jutro C-2, Teslina 9, jutrouteslinoj@gmail.com. Sitting outside of this small coffee shop you could be forgiven if you imagined yourself on an island in the Adriatic. Set just off the street this cafe sells only Croatian homemade produce as well as acting as gallery for some fantastic art pieces (all of which are for sale). A new favourite haunt for the coming summer. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It‘s now reopened, and the artiststroke-florist owner now sees that it‘s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

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July - September 2013

Nightlife Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11.

org, www.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists‘ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb‘s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don‘t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what‘s going on. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. Closed July 15 - August 31. Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBXW Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, kizohc@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there‘s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. July 22 - August 19 Open 16:00 - 01:30. EBW

Bars Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you‘re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. NBXW Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. JGBXW Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06. There‘s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. With the reopening of the classic theatre‘s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb‘s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15. PBX Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30‘s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen Mon, Tue 07:30 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PJAGXW Zagreb In Your Pocket

Nightlife Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This no-

nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what‘s there not to like about a place that doesn‘t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb‘s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven‘s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. PBXW Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 309 58 85/ (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-andcoming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 01:00. From August 19 Open 08:30 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 -02:00. PBXW Vintage Industrial Bar I-4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to winddown. And best of all, you don‘t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Clubs Aquarius H-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02

31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius.hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Saturday‘s feverish theme night is ‘Summer Fun‘ with house music to get you hoppin. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGBW Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there‘s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock‘n‘Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 28 - August 29. PGX

Late night eating American Donut H-3, Krapinska 1, www.american-

donut.hr. Big burgers, various sandwiches, sliced pizza, donuts, and mega muffins to munch… QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6 - 30kn). City Club Grill H-3, Ilica 125, tel. (+385-1) 370 45 85. They offer kebabs, and sis kebabs with all the goodies in between. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (17 - 27kn). Pinguin Sandwich bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 46. Gourmet standard and toasted sandwiches with prosciutto, grilled chicken and tomatoes plus more… QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. (15 - 30kn).

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Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34, www.mansion.hr. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 04:00. PAB Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 28 - August 24. PJNGXW

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers‘ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB Ožujsko Pub C-1, Tkalčićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 482 72 37. Located on the popular corner, where Skalinska and Tkalčićeva intersect, this Pub is named after one of Croatia‘s most famous beers. Old newspaper ads and beer bottles, outlining the history of the Ožujsko Brewery, line the walls of this modern, yet relaxing environment. A fireplace decorates one wall giving a homey feel and a wooden silhouette of the city encircles the pub, while candles hang from above. Choose from a large array of beers - Stella Artois, Ožujsko, Bavaria, Becks, Lefee, Hoegarden- and quench your thirst with a refreshing drink. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JGB Sheridan‘s Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn‘t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia‘s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They‘re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you‘re fond of your pint of plain then that‘s a good thing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Closed July 28 - August 16..

Things to do on Friday night Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, winebar@

dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. Why not enjoy the aromas and tastes of over 130 top class wines rounded off with a nibble at the modern tapas bar. Open Fri 10:00 - 24:00. Q Closed August 5 -18. First Fitness & Squash Tower K-3/4, Zavrtnica 17, squashtower@squashtower.hr, www.squashtower.hr. If you are still feisty after a long week and have excess energy to use, then explode into squash which will definitely give you a workout and raise a sweat. Price between 16:00 - 23:00 for 30 minutes is 55kn for members and 65kn for others. Skybowling H-5, Arena Centar, Lanište 32, www. skybowling.hr. Ten-Pin Bowling with super groovy disco music and light effects will have you dancing and bowling strikes all night long. Great atmosphere, 20:00 - 03:00, 150kn per hour.

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July - September 2013

What to see

Whatto to see see What

Essential Zagreb St Mark‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There‘s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count‘s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don‘t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb‘s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you‘ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia‘s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn‘t been touched since. Today you‘ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it‘s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it‘s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you‘ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don‘t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it‘s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It‘s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn‘t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You‘ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you‘re starting to understand is very unique too!

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What to see Museums

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you‘re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman‘s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović‘s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that‘s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

What to see Less cash, more fun Archaeological Museum In Zagreb Entry to the Archaeological Museum is free every first Sunday.

Botanical garden For a break from the heat of the city

, head for Zagreb‘s botanical gardens. Admission is free! Contemporary Art Museum Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month. Croatian Railway Museum Entry to the Museum in Vukovarska bb is free. Call (+385-1) 378 28 62 and organise an English or Italian language guide.

visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

Top 5 Secret Things to See

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

Liber linteus Zagrebiensis - A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text. Located at the Archeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe‘s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff,

Zagreb In Your Pocket

A portrait of the daughter of Samuel Berger

- located at the Modern Gallery , this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters. The Holy Trinity - this is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines. Stjepan Erdödy Jump - located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia. Girl with a Bird - located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits.

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July - September 2013

escape the city

What to see The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren‘t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sci-

ences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptoteka@hazu.hr, www.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. The city‘s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the

experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Meštrović Atelier Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia‘s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920‘s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Karlovac Tourist Board Archives The heat is on dear readers and as the city‘s temperature rises and asphalt exceeds forty plus, it might be enough of a reason to do the great escape. We have compiled a list of recommended destinations which are approximately one hour or so away from zippy Zagreb by car. So there‘s plenty of choice for you to rejoice! Wishing you a fantastic stay.

Mrežnica & Kupa Outdoor lovers devouring nature or a breath of fresh air can head to the rivers Kupa or Mrežnica where you can ride a canoe, go rafting or take scenic walks. The source of the Kupa is the rocky karst landscape of the Risnjak National Park. The river is 296km long and the waters are a bracing 7˚ Celsius. The river passes through the towns of Ozalj, Karlovac, Petrinja and Sisak. Call into the tourist information centres in any of these places for more information about messing about on the river. On the Kupa you can enjoy rafting, canoeing and fishing. In the summer months there are excellent places to swim at Pravutina, Jurov, Bubnjarci and Zibel (at the latter there are also restaurant and sports facilities). The Mrežnica is 63km long, with its source near Slunj. It joins the River Korana near Karlovac. It passes through the towns of Duga Resa and Karlovac: call into the tourist information centres in those towns for information: www.tz-dugaresa. hr, www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr. This river is great for boating and canoeing, and has loads of little waterfalls which are great for rafting. At some points calm pools have formed which are perfect for swimming: in the summertime the temperature can be as high as 27˚ Celsius. Around the beach areas you‘ll find facilities including volleyball courts, biking trails (some as long as 50km) restaurants and lodges and a campsite in the Vrela Mrežnica canyon. Kanjon park vrela Mrežnice Trg. Franje Tuđmana 15, Slunj, Gornje Primišlje, tel. (+385 -) 091 177 74 00.

Zagorje The hilly area of Zagorje is filled with custom and culture. There are cycling routes, kleti (traditional little wooden houses), gastronomic delights, wine roads and more. Whilst there, don‘t miss out on the Museum of the Krapina Neanderthal which was nominated for the European Museum of the Year, 2012.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) Šetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina,

tel. (+385-49) 37 14 91, mkn@mhz.hr, www.mkn.mhz. hr. The new Neanderthal Museum in Krapina opened in February 2010 and is a brilliant day out. Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience. It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. This is the most numerous and most varied collection of such fossils in the world. The remains of dozens of people were found, together with those of animals such as the cave bear, wolf and rhinoceros as well as Palaeolithic stone implements. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. It is not only the direct connection with the original find that brings you so close to deep prehistory: sculptures of Neanderthal families are so realistic that visitors have an eerie sense that they are about to move at any moment. You‘re propelled back in time by sounds and smells recreating the world of Neanderthal man. You can touch the sculptures and learn about their emotions, rituals and entertainment. In short, this is about as close to Neanderthal man as you can possibly get, and is a real eye-opener, revealing how close to our own kind the Neanderthals truly were. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 50kn. Is it inner peace or spirituality you are after? Then we recommend a visit to the famous Marian pilgrimage sites in Marija Bistrica and the baroque church of Saint Mary of Snow, in Belec.

The Croatian National Shrine - The Parish Church of St Mary of Bistrica Trg pape Ivana Pavla II 32, Marija

Bistrica/(+385-49) 46 91 56, www.svetiste-mbb.hr. The largest and most important Marian shrine in Croatia is in the town of Marija Bistrica in the region of Zagorje, some 40km north of Zagreb. The shrine has a long history. The town of Bistrica first appears in the records in 1209, and its Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul was first mentioned in 1334. In 1715, during the time of the plague, a votive alter was built in the church, and in 1731 the church was extended and dedicated to St Mary of the Snows. Today‘s stunning

July - September 2013

escape the city

What to see work of an unknown artist and depicts the Virgin Mary bathed in golden light along with two floating angels. The church‘s paintings are mainly frescoes devoted to iconography of Our Lady covering all the walls of the interior. They are the work of the Tyrolean master Ivan Krstitelj Ranger. The church is only open during Mass, so if you‘d like to visit at other times please contact the bellringer on (+385-49) 46 04 18.

Ozalj

Parish Church in Marija Bistrica was built in between 1879 and 1882. It was partly built on the foundations of the old church and the additions were in the neo-renaissance style. A fire broke out while construction was underway on the eve of the Feast of the Assumption of Mary, and the church interior was destroyed apart from the high altar and the miraculous statue of the Mother of God that is kept there. A new altar was consecrated in 1883. Alongside the shrine is a calvary and 15 Stages of the Cross. The calvary was created by well-known Croatian artists. The first four Stages were built in 1941, and the remaining 11 in the 1970s and 1980s. The complex was completed in 1990. A great number of pilgrims from Croatia and abroad visit Marija Bistrica every year, and you‘ll find market stalls on the impressive town square in front of the shrine where you can buy souvenirs of the statue of Our Lady, of the shrine and of Marija Bistrica. You‘ll see the familiar red gingerbread hearts, the making of which is a traditional handcraft in this part of Croatia, and handmade wooden toys which are listed by UNESCO as a part of world cultural heritage. The Parish Church of St Mary of the Snows Belec 52, tel. (+385-49) 46 00 40. The tiny hamlet of Belec, close to the little town of Zlatar north of Zagreb, is home to just a few hundred souls. Set amid the green, rolling hills of the Zagorje region, it‘s the hiding place of a real treasure of church architecture - the Baroque Church of St Mary of the Snows. Apart from its rich interior, the church is an unusual example of a fortified church, being encircled by low walls and towers in a rustic Baroque style. Just a short distance away, the ruined mediaeval fortress of Belecgrad looks over protectively from its vantage point on a hillock. These defences are a reminder of the days when this region was under threat of invasion from the nearby Ottoman Empire. The church was built on the foundations of an older chapel and consecrated to Our Lady of the Snows by Duchess Elizabeth Keglević Erdody around 1675. However pleasing the church appears from outside with its lemon yellow walls and huddle of low red roofs, it‘s no preparation for the explosion of colour and ornament within. The church has five altars, a pulpit and choir in gilded wood, and frescoes cover all surfaces of the interior of the church and sacristy. It‘s quite breathtaking. This is one of the loveliest Baroque churches in Europe. Of the craftsmen who took part in building the altars, the most notable is Josip Schokotnigg of Graz. Of the five altars, Schokotnigg built the two at the sides of the main altar which are consecrated to St Joseph and St Barbara. The pulpit with gilded figures and reliefs from the Old Testament is also one of his works. The two altars by the outside walls of the church are dedicated to the Holy Rosary and to St Stephen the Protomartyr. The main altar, dedicated to Our Lady of the Snows, is the

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Fans of medieval cities will be delighted with the town of Ozalj which is situated on a cliff overlooking the Kupa River. This little town lies close to the border with Slovenia, near the Dobra and Kupa rivers and close to lakes richly stocked with fish, protected by the serrated Žumberak mountains to the north, and surrounded by gentle hills and vineyards. At the centre of the little town stands, high on a limestone rock, Ozalj‘s castle, the symbol of the town. Founded in the 13th century and owned by successive Frankopan and Zrinski dukes, the castle grew into a small walled city. A newer part of town later grew up at the foot of the fort, but the overriding impression is a charming medieval one. Since it acted as a seat for these noble families, the town once had a far greater importance than you would think now, including a rich cultural and literary life based on the Kajkavian dialect. Ozalj has both a Native Museum and an Ethno Park, which are excellent for giving you an insight into this cultural past and into local traditions. The museum is where you can find everything from prehistoric remains to artefacts from the time of the noble families; from the military to the religious and spiritual life of the area. There‘s also a collection of landscapes by local painter Slava Raškaj. The Ethno Park (actually the ethnographic department of the museum) is where you can see the heartbreakingly pretty thatched cottages typical of the area, and the simple but pristine, whitewashed and wooden interiors brightened with flashes of colour of handmade textiles. In the Ozalj area there are numerous stately homes and palaces dotted around. One of the most surprising looks rather like a miniature English castle, lying right by a weir on the Kupa riverbank. This “Stone Palace” is, in fact, a hydro-electric power plant, dating back to 1908, one of the first in Croatia. Although it really did work, serving Karlovac with electricity, this neo-renaissance building is nowadays a listed monument. All in all, we vote Ozalj a great day out. Ozalj Native Museum (Zavičajni muzej u Ozlju) Ul. Zrinskih i Frankopana 2, Ozalj, tel. (+385-47) 73 22 71. Q July - August 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. September - October 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 5kn. Ozalj Tourist Board Kurilovac , Ozalj, www.ozalj-tz.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board

Ozalj Photo by Domagoj Novosel

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July - September 2013

Getting around Public Transport Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10

00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards, that works via top-up system and can be purcashed at all ZET shops and partner kiosks (Tisak)value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn. Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon. Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb's main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia's railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Gettingaround around Getting

Buses

Airport

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It's a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you're in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it's next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Biking Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is slowly becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. The hustle and bustle of cars in the heart of the city as well as having to battle for a car park, isn't the way to travel. Local government have been proactive in asphalting many of the roads and in doing so, cyclists have been given some extra TLC (tender loving care). Nowadays, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. The markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers alike. For those seeking a recreational ride then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala. hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

Bicycle rental

Taxis Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.50kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

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Blue bike, tel. (+385-) 098 188 33 44, info@zagrebbybike.com, www.zagrebbybike.com. 100kn/day, 50kn for the rest of the day if you take one of the regular Blue Bike tours. Mondo Bicycles A-2, Ilica 100, info@mondobicycles. com, www.mondobicikli.com. All you need is a document with a photo. 70kn / 6 hours; 100kn / day; 170kn / 2 days. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 D-2, Palmotićeva 25 D-3, Ilica 45 B-2, Petrinjska 59 C-2, Langov trg D-1, Kvaternikov trg J-2, Tuškanac B-1, Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb C-4, Importanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 D-2, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 C-1, International (near BCI), Čazmanska C-4, Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 I-4, Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 D-3, Cvjetni Centre, Varšavska (B-2)

Street Parking/SMS Parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

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July - September 2013

Shopping

Shopping Shopping

JapOglasFINtisakPATH2master.pdf

Antiques

Ashoo Archives

Shopping centres & Malls

Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Top, Tomićeva 4, Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Photo by Zelmanović & Sons

Art galleries

@telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Lapidarium Zlatarna Mario C-1, Radićeva 10, zlatarna_mario@

net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Looking for a piece of jewelry that‘s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion, whether a special event, like a wedding, or for a simple casual night spent out on the town. These original adornments are a unique brand in Croatia and were created by local and international designers that used modern and innovative ideas to make the jewelry. Their use of various shapes and engravings, with precious stones and gems, result in a cutting-edge, yet sophisticated design. At Lapidarium, you can find a galore of engagement and wedding rings, earrings, bracelets, as well as necklaces that are described as ‚a new dimension‘ of jewelry. Create your own signature piece, with never before seen styles, that will have you setting fashion trends. Lapidarium, part of Zlatarne Mario, obtained it‘s contemporary collection of jewelry from renowned designers and artists, such as Mario Nokaj, Dean D., Ivan Midžić, Stjepan Balja, Isabelle Bianchi Marchesseau, Irineja Ćubela, Silvio Hrnčir, Zdravka Radić and dr. No. However, it also supports young and upcoming C designers in the world of jewelry and gives them a chance to express their talent and love for creating jewelry. M Don‘t waste anytime getting to Lapidarium, as your dreams for owning a certain piece of jewelry can finally Y become a reality! Zlatni Licitar (Golden licitar) CM Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small MY mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough, the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia‘s cultural CY heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this CMY colourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb and a classic souvenir. It is an attractive ornament that K can be given as a gift to your loved ones to show your affection and warmth. Now, instead of being made by a baker, goldsmiths have transformed these symbolic hearts into dazzling pieces of jewelry. Their bright red colours have been combined with gold and silver to create necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Made using slightly different decorative styles, each golden licitar heart represents love in a unique way, with meanings behind each design, such as ‚love is the fire of life,‘ ‚love is the spirit of life,‘ ‚love is the foundation of life‘ and ‚love is the water of life.‘ As well, each heart can be further adorned with precious stones, rubies, sapphires, diamonds or corals to create a truly beautiful piece of jewelry. Show your affection for those you cherish in your heart with this time-honoured symbol of love. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

•Zagreb• Frankopanska 22 +385 (01) 53 90 467 zagreb@havana-cigar-shop.com www.habanos-moments.org www.camelot.hr •Zagreb • Ljubljana • Split • Dubrovnik • Fažana • Rogoznica •

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July - September 2013

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Shopping Souvenirs Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

Thesaurus Jewellery Archives

Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel.

(+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

•Zagreb• Frankopanska 22 +385 (01) 53 90 467

zagreb@havana-cigar-shop.com www.habanos-moments.org www.camelot.hr Zagreb In Your Pocket

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within‘, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb‘s designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lega-lega B-2, Masarykova 19, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Photo by Vesna Špoljar

Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+385-

1) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. August Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. A Zig Zag C-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‚bear‘ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Luxury Burberry C-1, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www. burberry.com. Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Givenchy C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 492 96 00, www.givenchy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kenzo B-2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 19, www.kenzo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Maria B-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Max Mara B-2, Masarykova 17, tel. (+385-1) 485 40 09, www.maxmara.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A XYZ H-5, Arena Centre, Lanište 32, www.xyz-stores. com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A

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