Zagreb In Your Pocket No82

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Winter 2015/2016

A Winter Fairy Tale Advent & Winter Wonderland Taste of Winter Sparkling Wines & Pastries of Old Shopping With Sense Affordable & Authentic

N°82 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Contents Nightlife

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

41

Let the music take you higher

Sightseeing Foreword

4

Discover what we’ve uncovered

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Priceless places and buys

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Shopping

A zesty editorial to unfold

Arrival & Getting Around

52

SOS! Have no fear, Z IYP is here

Hotels

City Basics 9

The true meaning of “do not disturb”

The A-Z of Zagreb

Directory

Advent Map 10-11

Services you just may need

Holiday season with ZIYP

List of Small Features

Chasing Winter 12

Carnival Time Our Beloved Pig Slaughter Tradition The Foodie’s Guide It’s Time for Sparkling Wine Medvednica and Traditional Winter Dishes Pointers for Pints Zagreb Heroines Affordable Art City Centre Shopping

Winter is here and there is plenty of reason to cheer

Culture & Events

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A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay

Zagreb Pulse

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When in Zagreb, do as Zagrepčani

Restaurants 26 We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat Local Flavour

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Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes “How’s that sweet tooth?”

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Maps & Index Street Register Transport Map City Centre Map City Map

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23 32 34 35 36 41 50 56 59 63 63 64-65 66

Winter has come and with it an exciting season of new events in Zagreb! We hope you enjoy your stay in Zagreb during these long Winter nights - Advent in Zagreb (Photo by Julien Duval, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives)

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Winter 2015/2016 3

Foreword Winter is here and there is plenty of reason to cheer! To begin with, this issue is crammed with cultural exhibitions and concerts that are popping up around town. In our feature Advent in Zagreb, Belimir will take you on an Advent tour through an interactive map with key locations outlined. And just because it’s cold, it doesn’t mean you can’t be active, find out where to go skiing, ice-skating, and more. When it comes to wining and dining, we have singled out some tip top places, and for those craving tea, hot chocolate or coffee, pick’n’choose from the cafés listed.

Our Local Flavour category gives you every reason to sip on top of the range Croatian sparkling wines with sommelier Jelena, perfect for New Year’s Eve. Read up on Mountain huts and the tradition of preparing pig meat for the season, an age old custom well and truly alive. Can you hear those jingle bells? Christmas is here and Carnival Season will follow soon after, find out where and why? Wishing you a joyful stay over the winter and do send us any feedback, it’s always much appreciated.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Siniša Pavić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Eli Gajinov Design Lovro Boljat Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Boudoir FW’015, Photo by Mladen Šarić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov zagreb@inyourpocket.com

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Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

BY PLANE Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.

Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.

Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.

Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića.

There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/ hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.

ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr.

MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.

The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

Zagreb's train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from

BY BUS The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.Q C‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@ zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.

Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. 6 Zagreb In Your Pocket

BY TRAIN

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Arrival & Getting Around 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.

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MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR) 5 QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAMS & BUSES Getting around town is made all the much easier via the 5 city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www. zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/ (+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

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THE SLJEME BUS LINE The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends 00 between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

BIKING

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Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven't fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with5either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www. zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Winter 2015/2016 7

Arrival & Getting Around ings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface.

For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

CAR RENTAL

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the city's large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.

PARKING STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you're using a foreign mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you'll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don't pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you'll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

TAXIS

+385 1 1414 reservation@ekotaxi.hr

ekoTAXI zagreb www.ekotaxi.hr 8 Zagreb In Your Pocket

EKO TAXI QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04 55, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr T­6 RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ (+385-1) 17 17, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radiotaksi-zagreb.hr TAXI CAMMEO Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxicammeo.hr

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City Basics CUSTOMS

TOILETS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

MONEY

VISAS All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe's wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department.

Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

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Ice Park on King Tomislav Square - Katapult Promocija Archives

QR CODE This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket. com/croatia/zagreb for Zagreb InYour Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

Winter 2015/2016 9

Greetings folks!

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Welcome to Zagreb at this special time of year. My name is Belimir and I'm about to take you on an Advent tour of our magical city!

Ho ho ho...

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Barcelona Gipsy Klezmer Orchestra - Photo by Jordi Olivier, 15.10 at Močvara

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04.12 - 21.12 Advent on the Main Square (C-2) Don’t miss out on a variety of concerts and entertaining events on the Main Square, weekdays between 18h-21h and weekends 11h -13h & 18h- 21h. Famous local singer Nina Badric will be performing for New Year’s Eve. 16.12 - 23.12 from 10:00 - 22:00 Christmas Cakes & Cookies Festival - Galerija Karas, 4 Praška Street (C-2) Festival at which chefs that are masters at creating delicious desserts will present their tasty Christmas selection of treats. They will also offer workshops and tastings for visitors.

28.11 - 10.01 The Market on Zrinjevac (C-2/3) also has gorgeous small wooden houses selling artsy items, unique gifts, souvenirs and Christmas decorations. Music program from 18-22h weekdays and weekends from 11-13h and 20-22h

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28.11 - 10.01 Ice Park on King Tomislav Square (C-3) This beautiful and romantic atmosphere will warm you up during the cold winter days.

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19.12 - 06.01 Live Christmas Nativity Scene - Kaptol, in front of the Cathedral (C-2) See Joseph, Mary and Jesus, the three Kings, the shepherds and real farm animals in a real live nativity setting in front of the Cathedral.

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28.11 - 06.01 Advent on the European Square (C-2) Bigger, better stands will be selling a variety o mulled wine, rich music program, including a c

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28.11 - 06.01 Fooling Around / Fuliranje, Tomiceva & Kurel Come out for a concert, stop by for a drink w and sweets for your loved ones this holiday se

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16.12 - 23.12 Artomat - HDLU (E-3) A charming traditional pre-Christmas fair wit

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28.11 - 20.12 Advent Calendar - Žerjaviceva 3 - Mihanov Discover hidden courtyards and alleyways in workshops, lectures, performances and conc

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28.11 - 10.01 Gajeva and Bogoviceva Streets (C-2) Part of the Traditional Christmas Market wit Christmas goodies.

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of Christmas decorations, traditional delicacies and choir performance after the midnight mass.

lceva Streets (B-2; D-2) with some friends, or simply pick up some trinkets eason!

th unique and quirky gifts up for grabs!

viceva 30/2 (B-3; B-4) the Lower Town at various exhibitions, readings, certs.

th little wooden houses that contain a variety of

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04.12 - 24.12 Strauss in Oktogon (C-2) Every Friday from 18h -19h and Saturdays 11h - 12h, the Strauss Ensemble will be performing mini concerts featuring works by the Strauss family, which will include waltzes, polkas and marches.

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28.11 - 02.01 Croatian National Theatre - HNK (B-3) The Nutcracker, a fairytale ballet, composed by Tchaikovsky, has a well-known selection of music with some of the best known tunes in classical music. Over the years, it has become one of the most popular ballets performed around Christmas time. On the very first day of the year 2016 also enjoy the New Year’s waltz concert.

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12.12 - 22.12 Ice Sculptures - Plato Gradec (C-1) On Plato Gradec an artist from Canada will create Christmas sculptures out of 20 ice blocks, each weighing 100 pounds.

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12.12 - 24.12 Christmas of Old Zagreb - Klovicevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Don’t miss out on stopping by this unique event, which will feature an Antiquity Fair, lectures, a small exhibition of old Christmas jewellery and old Advent postcards, as well as a gastro day, musical program and workshops for making Christmas jewellery.

Chasing Winter

Zrinjevac - Photo by Mario Radaković

Zagreb in winter!? Unlike the beloved brown bear which can hardly wait for winter to come and fall into its blessed deep hibernation, Zagreb’s winter has the reverse effect whereby the cold and frosty season ignites our metropolis even more so. The city squares and streets are filled with song and dance, delicacies can be enjoyed, it’s where hiking, strolling, skating, and recreational activities thrive, or simply life being lived to its fullest.

In its sixth edition, Advent in Zagreb is growing in popularity as it continues to get better and more meaningful.

After all, many travel portals have listed Advent in Zagreb as a must see attraction and one of the best in Europe. The magical city park Zrinjevac (C-2/3) is lit up with thousands of lights, music is being played at ‘Fuliranje’ in Tomićeva (B-2) and Kurelčeva (D-2) , there is singing and dancing on Ban Jelačić Square (C-2) and at the European market (D-2), and when the temperature drops to below zero there are sausages and mulled wine to keep you warm and snuggled. (For more info, see Advent, page 10.)

An important part of Advent in Zagreb is the Ice Park at King Tomislav Square (C-3). A mega outdoor skating rink is open to the public right next to the stately Art Pavilion giving all visitors the pleasure of skating and socialising. But 12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

low and behold, it is not the only ice rink to enjoy. You can skate and dance at the Šalata ice rink (D-1), from Wednesday to Sunday to the sound of disco music. (Wed - Fri 18:00 - 19:30, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30, 20:30 - 22:00; ticket prices Mon - Fri 15kn, 20kn on weekends; skate rental Mon - Fri 15kn, 20kn weekend). If you’re a fan of indoor ice rinks, from Thursday to Sunday in the afternoon you can do pirouettes at Dom Sportova (I-3) (Thu, Fri 20:00 - 21:30, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, 20:00 - 21:30; ticket prices Mon - Fri and weekend mornings are 15kn, 20kn weekend; skate rental Mon - Fri and weekend mornings 15kn, 20kn weekend). The Zagreb Velesajem (I-5) is also available (Fri - Sat 20:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 20:00 21:30; ticket price Mon - Fri and weekend mornings 15kn, 20kn weekend; skate rental Mon - Fri and weekend mornings 15kn, 20kn weekend).

For those who love walking, hiking, and sledging, then Sljeme is your next destination. Escape the hustle and bustle of city traffic and in just 15 minutes find yourself enjoying the benefits of this Nature Park. And once some leisurely activity has been had, out comes the homemade food; banked beans with toast or a plate of sausages or turkey with dumplings. (For more info, see Local Flavour, page 36.) zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Chasing Winter Crank it up a notch with skiing and snowboarding as there are several ski slopes open to the public every day from 09:00 to 16:00 hours on Sljeme. There is also night skiing on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 19:00 to 22:00 hours. (For information on the operations of the ski slopes and ticket prices, check www.facebook.com/skijalistesljeme or www. sljeme.hr)

Zagreb City Museum Archives

To help maintain top form over the winter days, swimming is a top option. The pools at Utrine (J-5), SP Mladost (H-4/5), and Mladost (I-3) are open daily to the public. Due to the extensive programme, check out the schedules and prices which are available at www.sportskiobjekti.hr If anything has experienced a real boom over the last few years, then it is running! Running amongst Zagrebians is a true hit. You’re bound to see both young and old go jogging and almost anywhere, whether it be on the Sava embankment (I/K-4), or in one of the city’s green oases such as Park Maksimir (K-2), Bundek (J-4)...

Photo by Željko Krčadinac

If escaping the wintery chills and staying indoors where entertainment, recreation, and relaxation is priority, then it is worth knowing that the Buena Vista Club (I-4) from Tuesdays to Saturdays in the evenings hold various dances, from tango and salsa to swing. Admission is free, starting around 21:30 - 22:00. If you are in the mood for some rock, and yet love billiards, visit Mr. Q (J-3) (Mon - Sun 12:00 - 01:00; rental price from 12:00 - 19:00 is 25kn/h, from 19:00 - 01:00 is 35kn/h) or the Metropolis club (I-5) (Mon - Thu 09:00 02:00, Fri - Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00; rental price at happy hour Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00 is 20kn/h, usually 40kn/h or per min), as well as live music and some of the top games on professional tables.

And for those craving a completely new experience whilst simultaneously helping save the world from total destruction, or even land on the moon and leave their mark, then try the new adrenaline craze called Room Escape (D-3) (Mon - Fri 12:30 - 21:30, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:00; 60 min game in one of two rooms (the bunker or zombie lab) with a team of 2-5 players, it costs 350kn per session and should be pre-booked by phone or via www.roomescape.hr).

There is also the Legame Studio (I-3) (Mon - Fri 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00; 30kn for a simulation up to 15 minutes, in pairs 100kn/2 simulations up to 15 minutes each, groups 2-5 persons 280kn with unlimited number of simulations up to 60 minutes). These are the latest two new attractions to the city, animation type games taken to the next level.

As can be seen, Zagreb during winter offers everything to help us stay strong and fit. Yet at the same time peace and quiet can be found here, a hidden corner in which to simply enjoy a good book or magazine. In the heart of the city, for example, you can find the Playground Café (C-1), equipped for parents with children and lovers of books, unless you have possibly purchased a top novel at the main railway station (C-4) where a Library ATM has recently been stationed! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Santa Claus at the Museum of Illusions

Ice Park on King Tomislav Square - Katapult Promocija Archives

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Culture & Events

P.I. Tchaikovsky - The Nutcracker, Croatian National Theatre (Photo by Novković)

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS 30.01 SATURDAY THE VIENNA BOYS’ CHOIR - SO LITTLE, YET SO BIG Don’t be fooled by their looks otherwise you’ll think these boys ought to be cuddling teddy bears. Far from the truth, they are a rasping group of 25 choristers and considered one of the world’s finest boys’ choirs; they resurrect the best of Mozart, Schubert, Haydn, Rossini and etc.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 120 200kn.

27.02 SATURDAY THE CZECH PHILHARMONIC - PROJECT DVOŘÁK A beautiful evening, at Lisinski, with the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra concert, conducted by Jiří Belohlávek, is an event you don’t want to miss out on seeing this winter.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tick‑ ets 160 - 240kn.

OPERA, OPERETTA & BALLET 06.02 SATURDAY WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART - THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO The Marriage of Figaro was composed by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and is composed of four acts. The story is told around a single “day of madness” in the palace of Count Almaviva near Seville, Spain and continues the plot of The 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Barber of Seville several years later. Don’t miss out on seeing this timeless tale.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.

08.02 MONDAY LISINSKI ARIOSO - ELĪNA GARANČA Don’t miss out on seeing one of today’s greatest opera singers, Elina Garanča. This talented Latvian will keep you mesmerized all night long with her beautiful voice.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 320kn.

14.02 SUNDAY LISINSKI ARIOSO - THOMAS HAMPSON Baritone American singer Thomas Hampson has sang in opera houses around the world and this winter he’ll be coming to Zagreb. Come out and see this spectacular singer for yourself.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 - 320kn.

19.03 SATURDAY SERGEJ SERGEJEVIČ PROKOFJEV - PATRICE BART: ROMEO AND JULIET Romeo and Juliet is a ballet by Sergej Sergejevič Prokofjev, which is based on William Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet and tells the tragic tale of lovers from Verona.

Prokofjev’s musical interpretation of the play has inspired many generations of choreographers and directors. In this presentation of one of the world’s most famous love stories, the choreography will be directed by Patrice Bart.

QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events ROCK & POP CONCERTS 18.12 2015 FRIDAY - 19.12 2015 SATURDAY PARNI VALJAK To celebrate their 40th anniversary, famous Croatian band, Parni Valjak, will hold two concerts this December at Zagreb’s Dom Sportova. This band was top of the rock scene in former Yugoslavia and still is, in Croatia, today.QH‑3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11.

Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 130 - 150kn.

05.02 FRIDAY THE BAMBI MOLESTERS FEAT. NIGHT BEATS The band was born in 1995 in the industrial town of Sisak hardly the most obvious location for a group playing music more commonly associated with the sun and sand of the Californian coast. The Molesters have remained true to the surf template throughout their career, although they are a long way from being a show band reeling out retro classics. Gritty garage punk, spacey psychedelia and lushly arranged passages of spaghetti-western soundtrack all serve to fill out the sound. They will be joined by Night Beats, one of the best American psycho surf rock bands.QE‑3, Tvor‑ nica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com.

Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

09.02 TUESDAY MASSIMO One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice. His newly released and long awaited album ‘Jedan dan ljubavi’, ‘One day of Love’ has received rave reviews and he brings his emotional tunes to Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall what should be a night to remember.QI‑3, Vatro‑ slav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www. lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 250kn.

12.02 FRIDAY LET 3 Get a taste of vintage Croatian rock that may leave your ears and eyes polarised. Sure, Let 3 can pelt out their chart topping hits and really explode on stage, at the same time they are known to resort to nudity and simulate some obscene moves on stage. Either way, punters are in for a real show!QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11.

Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 80kn for 2 persons.

20.02 SATURDAY SILENTE Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the attention of both the Croatian media and public with their first hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national charts and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for many national music awards.QH‑3, Dom sportova (Small hall), Trg krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 60 - 85kn. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

27.02 SATURDAY NENO BELAN & FIUMENS Croatian rock musician Neno Belan is a must-see this winter.

His sunny upbeat music and charm will chase away your winter blues.QH‑3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 75kn.

05.03 SATURDAY ELEMENTAL Elemental, a hip-hop group from Zagreb, will hold a spectacular concert on March 5th, referred to as ‘Day E,’ at the Dom Sportova, to celebrate 18 great years of their musical career. 2016 will mark the release of their 7th album, one of their most important works yet.QH‑3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 55kn.

08.03 TUESDAY TONY CETINSKI Some say that getting to the top is easy, but staying there is even harder. Tony Cetinski has reached and remained at the top of Croatian music for over a decade now and he continues to belt pop rock hits to ballads with his husky rock vocals and melodies.QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8.

Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 200kn.

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Culture & Events DANCE

Elemental - Photo by Maja Bota

19.12 2015 SATURDAY - 20.12 2015 SUNDAY BOLERO DANCE FESTIVAL This is one exciting event you don't want to miss. Come out to the Bolero Dance Festival and show your support for the very first same-sex dance competition in not only Croatia, but in all of Eastern Europe. Taking place at the Westin Hotel, the festival will feature both Female and Male, Latin and Ballroom dances.QA‑3, The Westin Zagreb, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, www.bolero-dance-festival.com.

14.01 THURSDAY - 16.01 SATURDAY ALIEN This beautiful performance has been in the making for a long time. Creating a solo performance is no easy task and Maša Kolar will delight you with this wonderful piece as she emerges in her first solo performance and finds her bearing in new and foreign territory.QC‑2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, www.plesnicentar.info.

EXHIBITIONS

Elina Garanča - Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Archives

21.02 2015 SATURDAY - 10.01 2016 SUNDAY THE ALPHABET OF MONEY From children to adults, this exhibit gives visitors the ‘big picture’ about money. More so, it teaches kids many skills through interactive ways. Upon entry, they receive their own interactive bank cards and begin the process of cash flow as they visit and choose to save or buy at stations.

From how to wash gold to trading stocks, there is much to see and learn.QA‑4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.

14.11 2015 SATURDAY - 03.01 2016 SUNDAY EDO MURTIĆ - CERAMICS Edo Murtić (1921 - 2005) was well-known for his passion for ceramics. This winter don’t miss out on visiting the ‘New Abstraction’ series at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, which will present Murtić’s most recent work in ceramics, his beautiful murals, as well as models and sketches he created in the period between 1998 - 2000, which never saw their realization.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

The Vienna Boys’ Choir - Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Archives Fairies’ Wheel - Magical Company - Beliefs in Supernatural Beings in the Podravina Area (Photo by Iva Lulić, Ethnographic Museum Archives)

19.11 2015 THURSDAY - 10.01 2016 SUNDAY PAVLE BELJANSKI COLLECTION – PEARLS OF MODERNIST ART Art afficiadoes can see a cross-section of the extraordinary Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection by the famous art collector and diplomat from Novi Sad. What makes this exhibition even more special is the chance to see the famous painting ‘Velika Iza’ from 1882 and by Croatia’s very own Vlaho Bukovac.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

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Culture & Events

11.12 2015 FRIDAY - 31.05 2016 TUESDAY MAGICAL COMPANY - BELIEFS IN SUPERNATURAL BEINGS IN THE PODRAVINA AREA This exciting exhibition is divided according to supernatural beings, from elves and fairies, to witches and many other legendary characters. The exhibition will show the transformation of these supernatural characters through time, from traditional folk legends to our modern pop culture.

The characters, photographed by award-winning photographer Iva Lulić, will be displayed in their natural fairytale forest environment.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr.

26.01 TUESDAY - 20.03 SUNDAY JOHANNES KOMMERSTEINER AND HIS CIRCLE Johannes Kommersteiner, from Zagreb, is the most important sculptor of the Baroque period from mainland Croatia.

He is well-known for decorating the interior of the Zagreb Cathedral and also working on the Jesuit Church of St. Catherine, at the end of the 17th century.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

26.01 TUESDAY - 26.02 FRIDAY SCULPTURES AND NUDITY - CORPOREALITY AND EROTICA IN WORKS BY IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ At this interesting exhibition the subject of nudity and eroctisim will be explored in the artwork by Ivan Meštrović, one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th century. The wide range of drawings and sculptures will focus on his facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Culture & Events

work from 1903 - 1946 through three parts and will deal with topics, such as the “ugliness” of nudity, ancient nudity and female nudity.QI‑2, The Glyptotheque of the Croa‑ tian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, gliptoteka.mdc.hr.

30.01 SATURDAY - 06.03 SUNDAY CYCLE - PRIVATE COLLECTIONS IN A PUBLIC INSTITUTION - MASTERPIECES FROM THE HANŽEKOVIĆ COLLECTION This exhibition will present a high-quality collection from the prominent lawyer Marijan Hanžeković. The collection contains relevant paintings and sculptures from the end of the 19th and 20th centuries, by artists such as Vlaho Bukovac, Mato Celestin Medović, Menci Clement Crnčić, Marijan Trepše and many more. Interestingly enough, the Art Pavilion, was created specifically for the exhibition of Croatian modern artists so this is the best possible environment for exhibiting these art collections.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

END OF FEBRUARY ZAGREB INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE - THE TIME OF GIANTS This exhibition will present Zagreb as one of the industrial centers of Socialist Yugoslavia, as well as its industrial heritage after the year 1945. The exhibition is the final part of the Zagreb Industrial Heritage project.QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

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Culture & Events TRIANGULIZONA TrianguliZona will mark the tenth anniversary of their first show held in 2005. Since then, the band has performed at many festivals at home and abroad and served as a conceptual starting point for later formed bands (Capisconne, Chui, Sunrise Sessions, Sonic Diptych, etc.). Not to mention audiovisual projects which include: 52 Weeks, Happily Ever After and more… But despite various changes, TrianguliZona still remains committed to its original concept of collective improvisation and the dynamics between audio and visual communication. At this celebratory concert involving Andrej Jakuš (trumpet, electronics), Ivan Kapec (guitar), Janko Novoselić (drums) and Vladimir Končar (video), the latest works of their colleague from Japan, electronics Sunao Inami will be presented.

Triangulizona (Triangular zones) refers to three distinct but interdependent dimensions; image, sound and time. The group began as an experiment with only a few artists and slowly formed into an exciting genre which is difficult to resist by both performers and audience. The magic of this live experience is based on a culture of listening, ambient soundscapes and the visual universe in which we are, thanks to new technologies, drawn sometimes against our own will. In response to so much information, one instinct is created, an ‘instant’ conception that is not burdened with the preservation and accumulation of artistic artifacts than to contrast and reject. Hence, why it can be said that we are entering a dynamic zone which leaves traces with no marks! The artists participating in this event are known in the alternative scene. Don’t miss their concert, 14th December at Student’s Centre (Savska cesta 25).

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

11.03 FRIDAY - 24.04 SUNDAY BACHRACH & KRIŠTOFIĆ As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition will display different works from their 35 year career.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

15.03 TUESDAY - 10.04 SUNDAY DRAŽEN TROGRLIĆ - MONOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION - PAINTINGS, DRAWINGS, WATERCOLORS, PRINTS, SCULPTURES 2000-2015 At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works, including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these great works by this modern artist.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

18.03 FRIDAY - 17.04 SUNDAY DALIBOR MARTINIS - DM 2016 TALKS WITH DM 2077 This project was specifically designed for the Art Pavilion in which Dalibor Martinis questions and analyzes the world of media. Martinis is one of the most prominent contemporary Croatian artists and one of the pioneers of video art in Croatia. His work includes a variety of videos and performances in public spaces and has been displayed in many prominent art centers, such as the Kunsthaus in Zürich and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

SPECIAL EVENTS 03.01 SUNDAY - 06.01 WEDNESDAY AUDI FIS SKI WORLD CUP VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2016 The annual Snow Queen Trophy skiing competition is back.

As always, top athletes will swish and swoosh on Medvednica, the mountain above Zagreba, in the men’s and women’s slalom races. Don’t miss out on this adrenaline packed event.

QSljeme, www.vipsnowqueentrophy.com.

29.01 FRIDAY THE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUM Forget the winter chill and enter a world of nostalgia, history and tradition! Enter a world of cultural establishment as all museums have a free entry from 18:00 to 01:00 that evening. The Croatian Museum’s Society has once again organised a fantastic exhibition programme as well as educational and entertainment programmes.Qwww. nocmuzeja.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com 18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURY Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations lying around in its major cities. So near to Zagreb and yet so frequently overlooked, the Andautonija Archeological Park (www.andautonia.com) displays the excavated remains of a Roman-era town in the middle of the village of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast of the capital. Although lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved temples, everything else you would expect from a Roman town is here, including remnants of shopping streets, bathhouse complexes and scraps of mosaic. Archaeological exhibitions from November to April.

17.11 2015 TUESDAY - 06.03 2016 SUNDAY IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ROMAN AGRIMENSORES This exhibition will deal with Roman history in the region of Istria and will also cover the history of the geodetic instruments used during this time period, such as the groma. In Roman times, Roman surveyors were called “agrimensores”, a term which means “measurers of land.’’ This educational exhibition will explain how these ancient tools were used.QA‑4, Technical Mu‑ seum - Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnickimuzej.hr.

11.12 2015 FRIDAY - 23.04 2016 SATURDAY AQUAE IASAE - RECENT DISCOVERIES OF ROMAN REMAINS IN THE REGION OF VARAŽDINSKE TOPLICE In the Varaždin spa region, where there is a medicinal thermal water spring, Roman Aquae Iasae settlements Apolon, Aquae Iasae - Recent Discoveries of Roman Remains in the Region of Varaždinske Toplice (Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Archives)

from the 1st - 4th century can be found. Here a complex in various stages of construction was discovered, which consists of baths and temples that were built around the natural spring. This exhibition will present recent research results, from 2011 - 2013, of numerous inscriptions, sculptures, reliefs and Romans coins which were discovered.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr.

JANUARY THE BUDINJAK NECROPOLIS 1995-2014 Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50 km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the richest Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

JANUARY - FEBRUARY VELA ŠPILJA - KORČULA BC The project “Korčula BC” aims to promote, protect and preserve the culture at the Vela Špilja on Korčula Island.

Thanks to the excavations performed at the Vela Špilja, life from the end of the last Ice Age to the present day is able to be reconstructed. Research has been going on in this area since 1974 and it’s claimed that ‘‘virtually the entire history of mankind can be read in one place, in the 11-meter thick layer wall.’’QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.

30.01 SATURDAY #DRITOIZTVORNICE Belgrade hip-hop legends Prti Bee Gee will be hosting a spectacular show this January. They are well-known in Belgrade underground rap circles and have won over audiences in neighbouring countries, such as Croatia and Bosnia. They have release one album, ‘‘Grejtest Hits,’’ which has captured their audience. Other performers see at: www.tvornicakulture.com.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 50 - 70kn.

21.02 SUNDAY - 28.02 SUNDAY ZAGREBDOX FESTIVAL The most beloved time of the year for film buffs is here once again! ZagrebDox, an international documentary film festival, has been taking place from the end of February since 2005. Over 150 national and international documentary productions, including some of the world’s best films, awarded at the most prestigious festivals, will be shown in cinemas at the Centre Kaptol along with workshops and lectures.QC‑1, Cineplexx Cinema, Nova Ves 17 (Kaptol Centre), www.zagrebdox.net.

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Culture & Events

James Carter (Jazz.hr - HDS Archives)

JAZZ & BLUES CONCERTS The beauty of jazz is that it can be any tempo, texture, or rhythm, and it leaves room for improvisation where the musician or group ‘go wild, go all out, and revel in showing off their talents’. We know this ohhh too well which explains why this Winter’s Zagreb Calendar is so jazzalicious!

02.02 TUESDAY JAMES CARTER ORGAN TRIO Although he is often proclaimed as the best baritone saxophonist in the world, James Carter also plays the sopranino, soprano, alto, tenor and bass saxophone, clarinet, bass clarinet and flute with equal skill and mastery. His music style ranges from funk to bebop and gypsy swing and he has throughout his career recorded several albums. Don’t miss out on seeing his Organ Trio, which is known as one of the most exciting bands in today’s jazz scene.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski (Small Concert Hall), Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www. jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

03.02 WEDNESDAY HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA - AN EVENING WITH ARSEN Unique artist Arsen Dedić (1938 - 2015) always found the time for a new musical reinterpretation. Conducted by Silvije Glojnarić, HRT Jazz Orchestra will bring to life Arsen’s powerful music once again.QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall (Contem‑ porary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr.

Concert starts at 20:00.

02.03 WEDNESDAY HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA FEAT. NEUMEISTER AND ELLINGTON / STRAYHORN Come check out one of the most prominent jazz musicians of our time, jack-of-all-traits, trombonist, composer, 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

conductor and educator Ed Neumeister in his debut performance with the HRT Jazz Orchestra. The performance will include, ‘‘A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square,’’ which won him a Grammy nomination in 1991.QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall (Contemporary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00.

10.03 THURSDAY JEAN-LUC PONTY DUO (JEAN-LUC PONTY / WILLIAM LECOMTE) Famous jazz rock violinist Jean-Luc Ponty will be performing with pianist William Lecomte, at Lisinski, in a concert.

Ponty’s career skyrocketed after performing at the concert “Violin Summit” with Svend Asmussen, Stephane Grappelli and Stuff Smith and as a result became a member of the elite group of jazz violinists. This versatile musician excels at both the acoustic and electric violin and performs simultaneously with both jazz and rock musicians, as well as symphony orchestras. This remarkable artist is a must-see!QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall, Trg Stejpana Radića 4, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

06.04 WEDNESDAY HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA FEAT. TERELL STAFFORD - THE CAT Terell Stafford a trumpeter, composer, bandleader and educator from New York, will be performing some of his newest compositions with HRT Jazz Orchestra this spring. This talented musician is head of the Jazz Orchestra of Philadelphia and a Lecturer at the Temple University, and has performed with famous groups, such as the Grammy-winning Vanguard Orchestra.QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events CARNIVAL TIME The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling costumes are just some of the elements we consider to be a part of any carnival. Well, behold, dear readers, as your traditional carnival in Croatia includes not only these glittering essentials but also something different, something spooky, something quite hair-raising, in fact. You may be scared right now but let us tell you that this is a great time to be in Croatia, as you can join the locals in scattering evil ghosts and releasing a year’s worth of frustrations all under the cover of fancy dress.

This is, indeed, taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to cleanse your soul before the warm season of spring arrives.

You see, carnival season is connected with ancient traditions from these areas that go back to the Middle Ages. According to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin closer to the beginning of the year when locals would parade the streets, marching and cheering, they’d attend masquerades, fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing to drive away evil spirits. This would carry on all the way to Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent - the time of fasting, a time of moving away from our wrong doings and preparing for Easter. Quite often the final day of celebrations finish with the ceremonial judgment of an imaginary character blamed for everything bad that has happened over the past year. In the Zagreb region this individual is styled on a prince and is named the fašnik, though his moniker is different in other parts of the country. But wherever you go, he is the one who represents all our problems, troubles and miseries, who takes the blame and is then symbolically burned in a blazing bonfire. A little harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals around the country intertwine the customs of old with the fun and glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome as the carnivals include all generations, with some wholehearted devotees preparing for the show all year round. You’ll see the evidence of this in the magnificent costumes that are worn, some traditional and others so wacky that they would make fashion designers dance with glee.

Most of the carnivals take place at weekends and consist of a plethora of activities ranging from masquerade balls, carnival parades, exhibitions, tours, sporting events, dandy rituals and other celebrations. Needless to say, the amount of food and drink consumed at such events is astonishing, but at least you get to taste an array of gastronomic delights.

Every region has its own customs, so wherever you happen to be, why not join in the fun, embrace the spirit of carnival and experience it in a unique way. Let’s get an insight into what’s happening and where...

The idyllic little town of Samobor is just a few kilometers away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia’s most popular and longest-running carnivals. Festivities begin on 29th January and run through to 09th February. Good old Prince Fašnik is blamed for all the misfortunes in the region and is of course punished by being burnt in a bonfire. It’s witty and political as there is a judge and lawyer who defend the Prince by satirising current affairs in a highly humorous way.

There will be food and mulled wine on the square, competitions, fancy dress parades, a costume ball - and lots of wild behaviour! Samoborček buses leave from the Zagreb Bus Station. For further information, visit the www.fasnik.com In Rijeka By far the biggest and most popular carnival of all in Croatia!

In fact, according to the Sunday Times Newspaper, the Rijeka Carnival is one of the most exotic of these world events that happen at the beginning of each year. This sea-side city has a chill in the air at this time of year, but the carnival traditions that date back to the Middle Ages certainly hot things up. The Rijeka Carnival has become an international event with over ten thousand participants and more than a hundred floats and carts from dozens of different countries. The Children’s Carnival parade (30th January) has the cutiepie factor, while the International Parade (07th February) is nothing short of spectacular with over one hundred thousand people attending. The traditional costumes from the local area are spectacular, so do head down to the coast and indulge in the chance to enjoy a cup of coffee in the winter sun. Don’t let distance deter you from coming as the trip from Zagreb now takes under two hours by car; buses take 2-3 hours and trains rather longer. See the official carnival homepage www.ri-karneval.com.hr for further details.

Rijeka Carnival (Rijeka Tourist Board Archives)

In and around Zagreb 06.02 SATURDAY - 07.02 SUNDAY LIVING PICTURES Reinvigorate the past! Relive some tales of Old Zagreb during the last weekend before Lent at this costume party held at the Zagreb City Museum. Don’t be surprised when you come across some famous characters from the city’s earlier period who will tell you their own stories. Q Zagreb City Museum C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Zagreb Pulse INSIDER TIPS BY LOCALS

DORA FANJEK Owner of Silver Club

We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

ZIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Dora: I rarely go out at night so I’m not an expert to recommend a place for nightlife. I prefer to spend my time meeting people for a coffee. Our Balkan tradition of spending several hours drinking coffee can be seen in the endless sea of cafes all over the city. I am the most fond of the ones on Flower Square (Cvjetni trg) (C-2). Along with a good cup of coffee, I like to people-watch from a peaceful spot and enjoy urban life.

ZIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Zagreb?

Dora: When the form of relaxation that I want is not sipping coffee with friends, I like to go to a park. Zagreb has so many beautiful parks. Maksimir (K-2) is a true oasis in the centre for those who want to get away from city noise and hide under a little greenery. Also, for all those adventurous souls, the centre and its surrounding area is ideal for exploring this small hidden oasis.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Dora: The best way is to walk. By any other way you simply cannot take in Zagreb’s beauty. Our town is beautiful.

A lot of people fail to look up while walking the city and miss the beautiful facades, roofs, and ornaments on the facades. The artistic history of Zagreb is hidden in the architecture and should not be ignored. It is especially nice to get some ice cream in one of the pastry shops and then take a stroll to explore Zagreb.

Dora Fanjek

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb?

Dora: As a child of the shopping centre, I recommend to go shopping in one of the big centres. Whoever loves fast movement, the smell of new stores, and fast food will equally enjoy Arena, Westgate, and other places. It may not be particularly appealing for a tourist, but you return home full of bags with a big smile. As a souvenir, I believe that the most popular are the Licitar Hearts (gingerbread hearts), but I think it is interesting to find an older jewellery shop in town where you can buy bracelets with a Licitar Heart pendant or Šestine umbrellas! That is a souvenir that might be forgotten in an old drawer...

ZIYP: Which of the local specialities do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Dora: I personally love sweets! Every time I travel I’m sure to try some authentic sweet delicacies. Whether it’s cake, ice cream, or some other dessert. One of my favourite places in Zagreb where I like to treat myself with a sweet delight is Kraš. The taste of our delicious Bajadere is paradise for the palate!

Istria Square - Arena Centar Archives

24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb Pulse MARTINA ČIČKO KARAPETRIĆ & MORANA SARAČEVIĆ Owners of Atelier Boudoir ZIYP: Martina and Morana, when atelier Boudoir is first mentioned, often the first thing that comes to mind is your distinctive handwriting design. But the whole story began in the 80s with your grandmother. It is known that Zagreb’s crafts are a part of Croatian cultural heritage, and you’re a part of that too. Can you tell us how it all began?

Martina and Morana: Our grandmother, Đurđica Čičko, was a known figure of Zagreb when it came to design and craft, making hats the old fashioned way. From an early age we were surrounded by hats, our grandmother created glamorous collections of hats for renowned city fashion boutiques, these were disclosed at fashion shows at the Esplanade and the Golden Needle, which in the eighties were at their peak. Our grandmother pretty much dazzled us with the fashion world and although still young, by the age of 7 we started going to her fashion studio and slowly began to learn, and absorb everything around us.

This entire experience wasn’t just comprised of skills in craft; we learnt the basics in aesthetics but also in how to deal with customers.

Boudoir FW’015, Photo by Mladen Šarić

ZIYP: Tell us about today’s Boudoir. You are one of the few designers who at the same time hold a status as artists.

Martina and Morana: In the 15 years that we’ve been working here, Boudoir has advanced indeed. We try to move forward with every new collection and surpass even ourselves. Often within our artistic creations we incorporate elements that may not be so commercial, but that the audience ultimately recognises. The presentation of our collections is also a story in itself; we try to evoke, showcase our collections in a way that is completely different from the reality of everyday life and in typically clichéd fashion ways. As a rule, we work with an extraordinary photographer named Mladen Šarić, who in the best way possible; knows how to evoke everything we wish to express through our creations.

Boudoir Exhibition - Photo by Petra Messioptra

ZIYP: On the other hand, we believe that even those who perhaps are not so interested in fashion would find it quite appealing to hear that you are part of the virtual world,‘Second Life’. What is happening in this parallel world for you now?

Martina and Morana: Second Life is our virtual art platform on which we can create whatever our imagination desires, but in which reality generally hampers.

ZIYP: What about the fashion industry in Croatia?

How is it developing? Every dress in your boutique is handmade which requires hours of work, precise modelling, cutting, sewing, and is an original Croatian product. Do you think we have a chance of befacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

coming a fashion ‘destination’, where people come to Zagreb for that exact reason?

Martina and Morana: The fashion industry is still dormant, but there are a few designers who still products industrial collections. We are basically manufactures, but in saying that we also have daily regulars which we continuously produce in Croatia. Zagreb really has plenty of fashionable address, and a lot to offer people of different tastes. We believe that our city is slowly beginning to come to life on Europe’s fashion map.

ZIYP: You have started your own sporting collection named ‘Fiskultura’, which is available on line. In conclusion, can you tell us how you actually wear your sports collection?

Martina and Morana: We are very happy that we have launched a commercial line; our work is now much more available whilst at the same time it was a challenge to create and explore anew market. Our daily pieces are very easy to combine with any basic wardrobe, just as jeans, any general t-shirt, classic pants or a blouse...

Winter 2015/2016 25

Restaurants (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand).

The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www. restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W OKRUGLJAK Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica.QD‑2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). P­A­L­E­G­B­W STARI FIJAKER 900 A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@ starifijaker.hr, www.starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). P­A­G­X­W Ana Grgić, Chef de Cuisine, Zinfandels Archives

CROATIAN BURIN An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata.QJ‑3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42, www.restoran-burin.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). P­A­G­W DIDOV SAN Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.

The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ (+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A­L­G­W ISABELLA A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

VINODOL Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.

QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr.

Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W

MEET THE MEAT BATAK GRILL A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick, but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31, kvatric@batak-grill.hr, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 23:00. (35 - 70kn). P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W

SEAFOOD DUBRAVKIN PUT Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkinput.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn).

P­J­A­L­G­B­W KORČULA Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, boban.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). P­J­A­G­B­W RIBICE I TRI TOČKICE With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.QC‑2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79, info@ribiceitritockice.hr,www.ribiceitritockice.hr.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

INTERNATIONAL AGAVA Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www. restaurant-agava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (57 - 290kn).

J­A­G­B­W CARPACCIO Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, carpaccio@ristorantecarpaccio.hr, www. ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W LE BISTRO Legendary as a meeting and eating place, with the best Zagorski štrukli in town (a local dish made with curd cheese, cream and pastry). Otherwise, the menu mainly covers French classic recipes: from Quiche Lorraine to Boeuf Bourgignon, and superb desserts such as mousse au chocolat and tarte aux pommes. And as a bonus, new to the menu are an assortment of Korean dishes, thus the Esplanade has become the first hotel in Croatia with a constant supply of Korean cuisine. All in all, it’s a facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

great place to go for a luscious light lunch or to breakfast in style.

You can buy the famous štrukli frozen to take home for just 30kn.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 11/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.esplanade.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (130 - 195kn). P­T­A­G­B­S­W MANO Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation.

The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

CHIC & CHEERFUL CUŠPAJZ Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you'll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50 45. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 17:00. Closed Sun. 38kn. P­J­N­G­B Winter 2015/2016 27

Restaurants MUNDOAKA STREET FOOD For an extraordinary meal experience in Zagreb, check out Mundoaka Street Food. Conveniently located by the Main Square, their dishes, from homemade pasta to steak tartare and chicken salad, are all made with a tasty and unique twist. But, don't get too attached to a single dish, as the menu is constantly changing. Sit out on the patio and people watch as you savour your meal or enjoy the cozy and sleek white modern space indoors, adorned with wine bottles. If you're in a hurry, simply grab some coffee and cake for a scrumptious snack.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@mundoakastreetfood.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:30, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­J­A­G­B­W SHERRY'S WINE & BITES Sherry's, once over by Dom Sportova, and now occupying the former premises of Bistro Bardot in the courtyard facing Britanac. Here you could be excused for spending an hour at least perusing the wines available, but it would be an hour well spent. Croatian craft beer on tap, and some vibrant and interesting items on the food menu. Try their Sunday brunch, we think you'll be pleased.QA‑2, Ilica 73 (in the yard), tel. (+385-1) 400 81 50/(+385-) 091 250 77 12, sherry@sherrys.eu, www.sherrys.eu. Open 10:00 24:00, Wed - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 160kn). P­T­J­ A­6­G­B­W Agava Restaurant Archives

MALI BAR Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+3851) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn).

P­A­G­B­W

PARADIGMA POP-UP Split’s loss is Zagreb’s gain, as Paradigma ups roots and moves inland for the winter months. The move, partly to stay busy during a traditionally slow time on the coast and partly to show Zagreb what it’s missing during the rest of the year, has been welcomed broadly, even by the inhabitants of Split, hungry as they must be in the restaurant’s absence. Italian, Greek, Spanish influences will be joined by new, as the chefs create new dishes from the produce available in the Croatian capital. This might lead to a more permanent arrangement.QD‑2, Vlaška 55, tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03/ (+385-) 099 817 07 11, zoran@paradox.hr, www. restoranparadigma.hr/zagreb. Open Mon 18:00 22:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Individual tasting menu, 3 to 8 courses (250 490kn). P­J­A­G­K 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

ETHNIC ASIA Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it's also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There's none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it's perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, rezervacije@asia.hr, www.asia.hr.

Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W CALIFORNIA BURRITO Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work wind-down.QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, www.burrito.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 29kn). P­V­N­G­B­ S­W ROYAL INDIA Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Restaurants

dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.

QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@ gmail.com, www.royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 95kn). P­J­A­G­W TAKENOKO SUSHI BAR The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you're a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you're high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you'll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b.QC‑1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski. restaurant@takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). P­A­ G­W TIME RESTAURANT & BAR Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place certainly isn't. Perhaps better known to many as a great bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, something not so common in Zagreb even a few years ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­A­G­B­K­X

LUNCHES BISTRO JADRANKA Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday.

Has an active Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). P­A­B­S FAJN BISTRO ‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful watering holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint. Everything’s worth trying, but winter is the time for pumpkin soup!QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11, kucahrane@gmail.com, www.fajnbistro.com.hr. Open 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). P­T­J­A­ L­G­B­X­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter 2015/2016 29

Restaurants LATERAL There’s a very good chance that this won’t be so much of a secret for much longer. Situated behind the Main Bus Station, Lateral is already getting pretty good press from, for the most part it must be said, weary travellers glad of being able to enjoy a proper meal, and still be near their bus to the airport. The food, the desserts, the wine list…

No complaints can be had. The hot chocolate brownie is definitely something that will draw you back for seconds.

QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098 433 055, lateral@cateringlisak.hr, www.cateringlisak. hr. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P­T­ A­U­G­B­X­W Agava Restaurant Archives Pod Zidom Coffee, Food and WIne Bar Archives

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

PAUZA The appropriately named Pauza will give the 30-something business crowd a pause from their working day in a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There are daily specials and tasty desserts, all the right size for lunch.

And if the return trip to the office isn’t particularly pressing, there’s a fairly solid wine list to choose from, as well.

QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 98, bistro. pauza@email.t-com.hr, www.restaurant-pauza.com.

Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (50 70kn). P­J­A­G­B­W POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a cozy terraced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle and bustle of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Croatian specialities. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativity, and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom has a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus and broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked in a vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. Pod Zidom also plays host to live music during the week(end).QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 098 66 96 90, info@podzidom.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E­B

PIZZA FRANKY’S Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, mguberina2@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­A­U­L­V­G­B­ X­S­W 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants KOD ŽACA If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www. pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn) . P­T­ 6­V­N­G­S­W O’HARA O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry.

That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (39 - 86kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S ZERO ZERO Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00.

Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­ J­A­U­G­B­X­W

VEGE RESTAURANTS NISHTA It's far from ništa (nothing) that you'll get here, should you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you'll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/ (+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@nishtarestaurant. com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­W ŠUMSKI KUHAR BISTRO Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first floor venue feels like it could be miles from any noise whatsoever.

All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where possible, and the dessert menu would put many slastičarnice to shame.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34, sumskikuharbistro@ gmail.com, www.sumskikuhar.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

ZRNO BIO BISTRO 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There's a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@bio-zrno.hr, www. zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 59kn). P­A­6­G­B­W

Join the conversation with IYP

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Winter 2015/2016 31

Local Flavour

Photo by Višnja Arambašić Pig - Photo by Ivana Novak

OUR BELOVED PIG SLAUGHTER TRADITION When the feverish debate arose of whether Croatia should enter the European Union or not, Euro-sceptics offered two very serious culinary threats to citizens. The first was that Europe would not allow the old ladies (kumice) to work at Croatian food markets and sell their devoured homemade cheese and cream, a type of continental dessert Croatians cannot live without. The second was even worse and it referred to the entire Croatian nation - the banning of our traditional pig slaughter.

People were up in arms, outraged even as specifications and bureaucracy outweighed the traditions of our ancestors. Who could take away this eternal practice that takes place in the early days of an icy winter, most often round early December? Whereby a pig is usually the source of a handful of delicacies that would last the entire year with bacon, pancetta, ham, prosciutto, kulen, kulenova seka, and sausage such as black pudding, or dried ribs, pig’s trotters, and more to be had…

All of this, the Euro-sceptics claimed would come into question. Sounds ironic, it’s either the EU or pork stew. This fear of the majority was voiced aloud in what may sound 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Scones with Cracklings - Photo: Željka Klemenčić - Mrvica Čvarci, Čvarak Fest Karanac Archives

kind of odd to an outsider. You see, pig slaughtering in this region is in fact, and no matter whatever animal rights activists say, more than just a way of saving whatever delights for the winter and to survive the year more easily. Pig slaughter, regardless of how it may sound wrong, were and still are popular celebrations.

It all begins early in the morning; the entire family gathers in the courtyard, the neighbours are probably there too, before the family that is, excitement all-round! It’s a big deal, everyone has very precise tasks. Men, for example, slaughter and cut the pig, whilst women wash the pork lining in preparation for delicious sausages; and the biggest master is the one who knows how to make the perfect meat products, kulen, sausage, ham and prosciutto. As true as it is, sometimes one has too many drinks and sings indeed a tune or ten, jokes a little on his own or someone else’s account, but at the same time there is nothing better than the ‘first’ meat thrown on a fire, just like the sound of that pork fat when turned into crackling.

When a pig’s life is taken it isn’t a beautiful sight, but many say that it’s part of a natural chain; whilst one day ends, another dawns. For anyone who has attended the tradition of ‘pig slaughter’ during their lifetime, even if not for the entire ceremony not if every moment had been up to their liking, zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour today they will remember only the good and treasured details. For example, that fresh liver that was eaten for breakfast will always be a dearer memory than the somewhat weird parents’ need to force their children to hold a basin under the neck of a pig with blood dripping.

This tradition meant so much to people that they would take their annual vacation during the pig slaughter period, unless of course a public holiday would fall around that time, when it gets cold in November and December.

New times, however, have brought some new traditions.

People lead faster lives, there is not enough time anymore, retail chains now offer all the wonders made of pork and therefore make it all seem so much easier. So the most important element of the pig slaughter, which is the socialising and gathering of family and friends, has somehow lightly been ignored. Even more depressing is that we have ignored the truth, factory products and mass production will never have the same quality as a domestic product. It cannot be the same when the meat for sausages is mixed in a machine, or when it is made with love by a grandfather or father. A warm supermarket cannot compete with a child’s pink cheeks from cold nipping, not even a CD with pop music or announcements that entice you to purchase products can compete with the chorus’ and verses which are uttered by jolly folk followed by rakija (a drink to help keep warm in the winter). Neither can the ‘joy’ of when one comes home from shopping with a full trolley come even close to the joy of when one comes home from the pig slaughter filled with bags of the first pork rind/scratching (čvarci).

Unfortunately, it is true that the pig slaughteris no longer what it used to be, but fortunately this nice tradition is still being retained even if the wealth of a family is no longer measured by the number of pigs ready for slaughter. It should be said that the state has appointed more precise rules and legal laws so that the animal suffers as least as possible. The safety of meat goes under strict control; the conditions in which the pig slaughter can be performed are defined. Perhaps to some people this custom may seem barbaric, just as they think it is barbaric to load lamb on a spit, but all prejudices disappear if one attends the pig slaughter at least once,and if you are not so unlucky to be given a basin to capture swine blood.

In any case, it is the time of pig slaughter. Is it all worth the effort? Try at least one pork rind that was hand-made, one which costs almost one hundred kuna per kilogram, and everything will be a lot clearer to you then!

HIT THE MARKET! If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won't want to miss the farmers' markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you'll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.

Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you're here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you're not short-changed or given spoiled produce? ​ on't be fooled into thinking that just because this is an openD air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest).

It's travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city's markets they've earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it's spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That's a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn't raised on artificial substrate so it's full of flavour. With a bit of luck it's not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they're smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that's a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it's one of the liveliest spots in the city.

From 06:00 to around 14:00, it's full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It's fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.

If you're a vegetarian, you'll want to avoid the meat section where you'll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it's a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there's no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma.

There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat's or sheep's milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

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Local Flavour THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 11.02 THURSDAY - 14.02 SUNDAY ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST Are you a chocolate and coffee addict? Then this delicious event is a must for you to attend! The festival exhibits some of the finest coffee and chocolate by Croatian and foreign manufacturers. It includes local and international coffee producers, as well as appliance and equipment manufacturers, displaying products alongside coffee shop owners selling an array of chocolates and coffee mixtures.QC‑2, Trg bana Jo‑ sipa Jelačića, www.zagreb-coffee-chocofest.com.

04.03 FRIDAY - 13.03 SUNDAY ZAGREB RESTAURANT WEEK Mirroring in the footsteps of major cities across the world, Zagreb’s finest restaurants will once again open their doors to all visitors, offering their finest threecourse menus at discounted prices. Book your seats in advance as last years was a succulent success.Qwww. tjedanrestorana.com.

12.03 SATURDAY PINK DAY ZAGREB – THE 4TH INTERNATIONAL SPECIALISED FESTIVAL OF ROSÉ WINES Winemakers, chefs, bakers, wine journalists, sommeliers, bloggers and writers will be partaking in this gastro bonanza. Foremost, this will be a celebration of rosé and sparkling wines mixed with a jamboree of culinary and artistic guests, wine workshops, lectures, round table discussions, book presentations, and more. By the way, the theme colour is pink so be sure to pink’n up your attire!QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.womenonwine. com.hr.

THE LITTLE MARKET IN THE ATTIC Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food. For locations and dates check their website.Qwww.mali-plac.org.

WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr.

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A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you'll meet you've probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious The Little Market at the and hideously expensive Attic Archives dentex. If you're not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There's fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.

At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you'll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character.

The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina (C-1) and you'll find stalls selling cheap clothing.

Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer.

As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn't changed in the past 30 years; it's one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day's gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro.

The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2) (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3) and Kvatrić (J-) (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more.

So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour IT’S TIME FOR SPARKLING WINE! A sommelier’s Jelena recommendations of which Croatian sparkling wines to tickle your taste buds!

In Croatia, the production of sparkling wine has become very popular over the last few years - particularly with the classical champagne method of fermentation inside the bottle of wine. Such wine that is produced using the classic method must sit in the bottle for at least 15 months before being put on the market. Hence, patience is a virtue and it is through this process that the wine develops tertiary aromas. Fragrances by which you can identify the sparkling wine are similar to the scent of freshly baked bread, brioche, toast and yeast. Good sparkling wine should foam when poured into a glass, the bubbles should be small, numerous and long-lasting. It is also important to pay attention to the serving temperature, which must be between 4 to 6 ° C. In Croatia, not only has the production of sparkling wine increased, but consumption has as well. You will often see a group of people in a restaurant ordering Croatian sparkling wine and if it is made according to the traditional classical method, the wine will have more complex aromas in the glass and will be a very nice accompaniment with lunch or dinner, and not just as an aperitif. Some of the most important families who produce sparkling wines in Croatia using the champagne method and that certainly occupy the best positions are: Tomac, Peršurić, Šember, Bibich, Cmrečnjak, Bolfan-Vinski vrh, Matošević, PuhelekPurek and many others that are no less significant. There is hardly a corner in Croatia which does not produce sparkling wine. From Plešivica, Zelina, Hrvatsko Zagorje, Međimurje and Moslavina to Podunavlje, Istria, and the central part of Dalmatia…

Peršurić Misal Millenium Brut The Peršurić family comes from Istria and their wine production dates from as far back as 1990. Their great sparkling wine Misal Millenium Brut is a blend of Malvasia, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is elegant, fresh, extremely complex yet harmonious. Serve it at a temperature of 6 to 8° C and serve it with seafood or a great aperitif.

Plavec Žuti. It beads very nicely and is very stable in the glass. It has a very strong and complex bouquet, a good body and a very long finish. Excellent with a light seafood salad!

Meneghetti Classic 2010 The Meneghetti winery comes from Bale, Istria. Their Meneghetti Classic is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It maintains a golden yellow colour, a beautiful bouquet, and is a very complex and pleasant sparkling wine made according to the champagne method.

Truffle - Zagreb Coffee & Choco Fest Archives

Tomac Champagne Rose The Tomac family is one of the most important families in our area for the production of excellent sparkling wines.

Their Rose is made by using the traditional champagne fermentation method in the bottle with the grape varieties Chardonnay and Portugizac which are allowed to mature for about two years. On the nose it is very fresh, characterised by aromas of flowers and fruits, whilst giving the palette a beautiful sense of freshness. Šember Champagne Brut The Šember family come from Plešivica and in the last few years has been established as an excellent company that keeps producing better and better sparkling wines. Their brut sparkling wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Local Flavour

Kraljičin Zdenac - Medvednica Nature Park Archives

MEDVEDNICA AND TRADITIONAL WINTER DISHES Medvednica mountain is famous for its warm and hearty meals made especially during the cold winter months. One of the most popular traditional dishes is sauerkraut, called kiseli kupus, in Croatian. Back in the olden days, it was an inexpensive meal and could be afforded by almost everyone. As well, sauerkraut has a lot of nutrients and is an extremely healthy and nutritious food. A variety of dishes can be made using sauerkraut. A favourite among locals being sarma, which is minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves.

Another delicious dish is sekili goulash, which is a combination of pork and chopped sauerkraut. As well, sauerkraut can be served with grilled or blood sausages. Beans are also a popular dish in this area and are known as a ‘winter gem.' They can be served with sauerkraut in a stew or combined with barley. Last but not least, turkey with dumplings should not be forgotten as a tasty seasonal speciality.

Follow the well-known saying and when in Zagreb, do as the Zagrepčani do, by trying some of their traditional winter meals. These hotly prepared dishes are sure to warm you up during the long winter nights. Enjoy the delicious taste of sauerkraut, sausages, fresh cheese with sour cream, strudel and mulled wine. These ancestral dishes are timeless and individuals of all ages will enjoy these meals.

A trip to Medvednica mountain is a must for fans of the great outdoors. Located behind Zagreb, it consists of about 70 hiking trails of various lengths and degrees of difficulty.

Hikers usually hike to one of the numerous lodges for a warm and tasty traditional local meal. Some popular restaurants and lodges to visit include: 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bistro Pilana Bliznec This bistro offers a variety of delicious meals. Their most well-known dishes are lungić u maramici and skewers.

As well as, fresh cheese and sour cream and ćevapčići. The bistro can be reached by car or by hiking along the Blizenec forest trail. The trail is 800 m long and along the way you can learn more about the history of Medvednica and its wildlife. After your meal, you can also visit the museum, which was renewed in 1992.

Planinarski dom Runolist To get to this lodge it takes 1 hour and 45 minutes from the parking lot entrance of Bliznec, but it's well worth the hike, since their outdoor terrace is praised for having the best view overlooking Zagreb. The easiest way to the lodge is with the ‘Bikčević’ path or it can be reached by car using the Sljeme road. During your visit, be sure to order the delicious homemade bread, as well as their special Velebit beer on tap.

Planinarski dom Ivan Pačkovski (Puntijarka) This lodge is used primarily by the Mountaineering Society Zagreb-Matica, but is a favorite among all mountaineers.

It's the newest mountain lodge on Medvednica and takes about 90 minutes to get there by foot from Bliznec. In front of the lodge they have a variety of tables and benches, which can accommodate more than 300 visitors.

Planinarski dom Grofica This mountain lodge offers delicious culinary dishes, such as gulaš divljač and sljemenski lonac s vrganjima, in an intimate and cozy atmosphere. On average it takes approximately 2.5 hours to get to the lodge. As well, there is a bus line from Mihaljevac which stops in front of Tomislav's Dom, which is a 10 minute walk to Grofica. It is well-known among hikers as a place where you can eat well for 120kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Zlatni medvjed Located at the foot of the Sljeme Tower, this lodge is famous among skiers during the winter. They also rent out skies and other equipment. During the spring and summer, they offer delicious barbecued meals, as well as tasty apple strudel.

Vidikovac Vidikovac is by far the most famous restaurant and cafe on Sljeme. One side of the terrace offers a spectacular view of Zagreb while the other side offers a unique view of the Zagorje area. Webcams are placed here to broadcast live images. All of the hiking trails lead to the Vidikovac and also can be reached by bus from Mihaljevac.

Planinarski dom Grafičar If you're up for a day long hike up Sljeme then Mountain Lodge Grafičar is your ideal destination. Be warned that it's a steep climb, but it's well worth the effort. At the top, warm yourself up in front of the fireplace while listening to some soothing music.

Horvat’s Steps - Medvednica Nature Park Archives

Bistro Kraljičin zdenac This is one of the most popular Bistros among locals in Zagreb, since its natural spring is rumoured to have the cleanest water in the city. The well, which was named after the legendary Black Queen, assumed to be Barbara of Celje, second wife of King Sigismund of Luxembourg is only three kilometers from the entrance. The path is easy enough for even pushing baby carriages, however there are a few steep stairs along the way, so it's not recommended.

Lugareva kuća This lodge is described as ‘'mini Austria'' for its charming appearance. It consists of a wooden bridge under which a stream flows and has a picturesque garden decorated with gnomes. It's the perfect spot for an afternoon picnic. Tasting their homemade sausages is a must during your visit!

Sarma à la Carte - Croatia à la Carte

As well, a few other must visit spots on Medvednica include the Veternica Cave, the Zrinski Mine, the Medvedgrad castle, Susedgrad and Zelingrad. “Horvat's 500 Steps” is another popular place to check out. It's where Vladimir Horvat (1891-1962), a journalist, publicist, photographer and nature lover, who wished to make this part of the mountain accessible for everyone to enjoy, carved out 500 steps. At the bottom of the steps is a valley with a stream where the spirited Mr. Horvat built benches and a shelter that you can still use today. Also, don't forget to visit the Gorsko zrcalo (“Mountain Mirror”) cliff, used as a climbing wall, and Šumarske jaslice (“The Forest Nativity Scene”), where you can see life-size figures of the Nativity scene carved out in wood.

Visit www.medvednica.info for additional information.

You can also buy a map showing the hiking routes and landmarks for 20 kn at the the Medvednica Nature Park headquarters and on weekends at the Bliznec Info Point, located 100 m before the headquarters. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Black Pudding and Cabbage - Polovanec

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Local Flavour TASTY GETAWAYS Interested in trying some delicious local specialties available around the Zagreb area? You’re in luck because we’ve made a list of some great places for you to try out during your visit.

Savour the taste of traditional local dishes made using only the freshest seasonal ingredients at these mouth-watering restaurants, which can be enjoyed along with various homemade wines produced in Central Croatia. Or, as an alternative, stop by an organic farm to pick up some fresh produce and make your own meal.

BERTIJA POD LIPOM This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a protected monument that continues to serve up classic dishes from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the homemade strudels, sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer. The owner Božo is the heart and soul of this place and makes sure that everything runs smoothly.QZarebačka 8, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91 60, matija_gubec@net.hr. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon.

Fanjci - Sweets eaten during Carnival time - Photo by Višnja Arambašić

WHAT’S EATEN DURING CARNIVAL TIME...

After the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, sometime after the Three Kings’ Day, begins the period of Carnival.

During this time, the aroma of popular krafne, as well as other specialties will be spread from house to house. In the Hrvatsko zagorje region people still eat prisiljeno zelje (forced cabbage) , which is stirred with garlic and pasta sheets. Also popular is dry pork neck, the so-called lalovka.

As for cakes, the self-raising cakes are on the menu as well as the obligatory, kraflini (doughnut). In Zagreb, cabbage is also eaten, as well as polenta, beef, roast turkey or goose, and for dessert donuts. In Samobor, the famous Samobor kremšnite are served, not to mention garlic sausages with mustard and sweet bermet as a beverage. Slavonians enjoy meat leftovers in sausages, čvarci (dried pork fat) and as for the sweet desserts - strudels, švargle, donuts, masnica with walnuts or poppy seed and Greaves pie.

From the Kastav and Ćićarija area come the sweet specialty, presnac which is made of dough, old bread, milk, eggs, raisins and cinnamon. The other popular dessert are kroštule with almonds, fanjki, šurlice made of sweet dough, fig-cake made with walnuts and a bit of rakija, and presnac made of fresh sheep cheese and maroon cake. In Gorski kotar, povatica is made from self-raising dough with cheese, apple or walnut filling. Fritule and kroštule are a popular dessert in Split. The obligatory crème-caramel is home in Dubrovnik.

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BOLFAN VINSKI VRH Enjoy homemade cuisines with in season produce purchased from local families for the freshest ingredients at Bolfan Vinski Vrh. These tasty meals can be enjoyed with a glass of ecological Bolfan wine. If you’re looking for some much needed rest and relaxation then this is the perfect place for you. There are five rooms available for guests, a seminar room, hiking and biking trails and a playground for kids. As well, for wine lovers, wine tasting and a tour of the wine cellar are a must. There is also a vineyard and pasture where red angus cattle are raised.

QGornjaki 56, Hraščina, tel. (+385-) 099 703 17 97, bolfan@ bolfanvinskivrh.hr, www.bolfanvinskivrh.hr. Open Wed Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (90 - 200kn).

KARLO This charming picturesque restaurant is located in the heart of the Plešivička Wine Road, part of an area locally nicknamed, “Little Tuscany.’’ They offer traditional dishes full of mouthwatering flavour and seductive aromas using fresh seasonal ingredients, such as homegrown rabbit prepared with a delicious rose champagne or savoury chicken and vegetable skewers. These tasty meals can be enjoyed with some homemade wine while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in this gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+385-1) 629 30 91, karlo.gastrovin@gmail.com. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon. (55 - 95kn).

MALA HIŽA Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic small traditional wooden building was built in 1887, dismantled, relocated, reassembled, refurbished and opened in 2001.

What a journey! And when going to such extremes, the food just has to be good. There is a yearly all-round menu and an additional seasonal menu that combines tradition with innovation.QBalogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40) 34 11 01, malahiza@gmail.com, www.mala-hiza.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 185kn). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour RUDARSKA GREBLICA The town of Samobor and its small surrounding villages with their green meadows and hills truly are a wonderful getaway from the craze the main city has to offer. Such places still hold onto much tradition when it comes to crafts, folk dance, costume and food. Speaking of the latter, one classic food that has stood the test of time even since the 20th century is the ‘Rudarska greblica’. These are types of pastry snacks that miners would take with them down mines knowing that they would have to be there for many hours without pause.

These could last hours; they didn’t need to be kept in a fridge and gave miners lots of energy for their hard labour. Probably still a poor man’s meal, people had little to choose from back then and all that villages had to offer were more often than not flour, salt, eggs, milk, cream and other dairy. Decades later, such pastry snacks from the area thrive in cafes and restaurants and are a true delicacy. Now you may be wondering where you could buy such a traditional pastry snack. Low and behold, the eatery and patisserie ‘Mak Na Konac’ in the street Popa Dukljanina 1, has it on offer. Pastry chef Petra Jelinić, who happens to be from the Samobor area, works up some amazing greblice along with cookies, cakes, macaroons, biscuits and other pastry delights; so there’s a fine line for those who prefer the sweeter to the saltier types of goodies. Petra is almost an art chef with attention paid to detail. We do recommend the čvarkuše also, a classic type of soft scon with minced pork rind added to the dough leaving a blend of soft salt on the palette. The interior is elegant with a modern rustic feel, lots of wooden interior mixed with green giving a natural feel. There is plenty to choose, so you can’t lose!

Rudarska greblica by Petra Jelinić - Photo by Damir Fabijanić OPG Mario Krog Archives

OPG MARIO KROG If you’re looking to buy fresh and organic products then a visit to OPG Mario Krog farm is a must. Recently established in 2013, they aim to preserve the traditional breeding of domestic ducks in Krapina, an area which the Pannonian Sea used to cover. Currently, the farm always has between 100-200 ducks which are slowly prepared for sale. The ducks are provided with fresh drinking water and eat homemade pesticide-free food mixed with grains, such as wheat, barley and oats. As well, the ducks provide fresh eggs, which are twice as big as a chicken’s eggs and with a yolk that is much more yellow.

The farm is open to visitors from 07:00 until 17:00 during the winter, when the ducks go to sleep, and during the summer, the farm is open until 20:00.QGornja Pačetina 27, Lepajci, Krapina, tel. (+385-) 099 342 53 01, farma.patka@gmail. com, www.domace-patke.com. Open 07:00 - 17:00. Price of ducks 60kn/kg.

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Coffee & Cakes unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. P­N­G­B­X­W EXPRESS BAR It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2, Petrin‑ jska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00.

LE KOLAČ We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious.QE‑2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­N­G­ B­X­W

AÏDA A short review is not easy here. High ceilings, a sense of great space, music and uniforms reminiscent of the 1960s, and a bright and simultaneously relaxing pink décor. High quality coffees and teas, and a menu which pairs cakes with wines, something which will prove popular at any time of year. Aïda’s goal isn’t just to provide a place for a pit-stop, but to offer you an overall experience. The Moroccan chocolate cake is an absolute must!QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-) 098 884 84 94, info@aida.hr, www.aida.hr. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. P­T­J­G­B­X­S DEŽMAN BAR Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pastries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens, and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, info@dezman.hr, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 01:00. Closed Sun. P­­T­J­B­X­W DIVAS The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and 40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

MAK NA KONAC The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, www.maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sun. A ORIJENT There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ymail. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. P­N­G­W VELVET This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.

Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.

QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet. hr, www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

P­J­A­6­G­B­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife POINTERS FOR PINTS The subject of craft beers is, paradoxically, one of some simplicity, and of such complexity so as to befuddle many a lover of hops and barley. The idea of a craft beer has evolved somewhat in recent times, and is likely set to evolve even further over the coming years. Originally a craft beer was made in small quantities, and without the preservatives present in more commercial / mass produced beers. Of course, it’s entirely possible to market your craft beer; if it’s good enough, people will drink it, and indeed seek it out with great fervour as they do with Ridgeway Brewery’s (UK) Bad Elf line.

Craft beers, as any fan will tell you, are the sort you sip and savour, perhaps reading a book in front of an open fire; they are not the sort of beers which you drink quickly nor excessively, for to do so would be unforgivably wasteful.

Generally speaking craft beers would be shunned by mainstream outlets- why would some major retail chain dedicate shelf space to such a limited product, knowing all too well that it would be gone that same day, and no new returning customers likely gained as a result? More acceptable for the profit line to focus on your core beers – in Croatia’s case these being those produced by Zagrebačka pivovara and Karlovačka pivovara, which include, respectively, Ožujsko, Tomislav, and Karlovačko.

another place, Punkt, which will have opened in Zabok, maybe an hour from Zagreb, and they’ll be brewing their own beers for their own customers at their attached restaurant.

Within the city centre, without even having space or time to look at the suburbs, you have several great spots to try all of these beers and more – Tolkien’s (C-1) up on Opatovina is probably the first place you should visit, being Zagreb’s #1 beer-lover hang-out. Tituš (B-1), at the top of freshly renovated Mesnička has craft beers available, as well as a sort of bluesy-jazzy chic. Beertija (D-3), part of the Tvornica Kulture group, was opened specifically to cater to the ever-growing beer culture. You have Caffe Bar A’e (I-5), opposite the Velesajam Pavilions, Sheridan’s Irish Pub (I3) which stocks imported Irish and European beers as well as the local stuff, and Zagreb’s newest craft beer pub, the Craft Room (C-1), which has opened in the premises of the former Kulinarijat. And what’s on offer in terms of imports is set to increase that much more – keen readers will have already noted that the two main breweries listed above have changed hands in recent years, with Karlovačko recently rebranding as Heineken Croatia, and Zagrebačka being purchased by Molson Coors…this latter deal is important here, because Molson Coors have been buying up craft beer

Croatia has seen a craft beer boom within the past 2 years, a boom that was clearly long overdue. The country already had Velebitsko, both light and dark, coming out of Lika, and truly wonderful beers at that. Vukovarsko, as you would expect, coming from Vukovar, an unpasteurised beer, and so requiring that it be drunk not long after bottling. Any hostelry around the country, which stocks Vukovarsko, knows that a quick phone call, or post on social media, will ensure that it won’t spend too long in the fridge. And it’s that sort of brand awareness, however ‘underground’ it is, which tends to characterise craft beers.

And no article about Croatian beer is even possible without mentioning the Medvedgrad pivovara family – sundry beers, including the heady Grička vještica, and present in several locations around the capital (Mali Medo on Tkalčićeva, a place on Ilica, one way out towards Samobor, and one on Savska), as well as (in recent months) in bottle form in pubs, cafes, clubs, and even on the shelves of Konzum (well, it is a Croatian mainstay after all).

ABA 5th Element - Photo by PHOTON Studio Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & Co. Archives

The aforementioned boom has seen many actors involved – Zmajska pivovara, Nova runda, both giving some excellent IPAs, both on tap and bottled. Bujska pivovara is a tad more upmarket with its divine San Servolo, which comes in 3 types – light, red, dark. But while you’re paying a bit more for this than for other local beers, it’s no Grey Poupon you’re buying; you’re getting a kick for your kuna here. There are other small outfits, ABA 5th Element, BaD Brewery, and by the time you read this there will be facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter 2015/2016 41

Nightlife breweries around the world, and have now introduced their new products to the Croatian market (try Cork’s own Rebel Red, and trust us when we say that the bottled beer tastes just as if it were a freshly poured pint).

Check out their website to see what's going on.QA‑3, Pierot‑ tijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, medikainfo@gmail.com, www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request.

J­6­N­B­X­W

And it doesn’t end there, either! At least one company has made its plans known to set up a craft brewery to rival anything else present in the country right now… Exciting times!

MOČVARA This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb's premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer's woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it's best to keep track via the web.

QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, mochvara@ urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it's best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. P­T­6­U­L­E­N­G­B­X­W

ALTERNATIVE AKC MEDIKA Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists' squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb's alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don't need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in.

SPUNK Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become.QI‑3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, spunk.zagreb@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.

P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W

BARS Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & Co. Archives Green Gold Club Archives

BACCHUS JAZZ BAR Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you're seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, ejudnamo@yahoo.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. T­J­6­N­B­X­W BOOZE&BLUES A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze & Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit you'd likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There's a Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.

QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, info@boozeand-blues.com, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­E­B­ X­W CORNER BAR Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with

42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Nightlife

friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There's something to suit everyone's taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00 where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa Forest Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, b.luksa@corner-bar.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. P­T­J­ A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W MELIN Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb's most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC‑1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com, www.melin. hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­A­6­E­B­X­W SAVSKA 14 (EX KRIVI PUT) This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite.

Afterall, what's there not to like about a place that doesn't bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them?QA‑4, Savska 14. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B TABAN BAR Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which is located on one of Zagreb's most popular walking streets.

The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some friends and people watch. Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalkboard and comfy couches create an urban feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event details.

QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, reception@ tabanzagreb.com, www.tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. T­J­6­ E­N­B­X­W Winter 2015/2016 43

Nightlife TESLA POWER HOUSE Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock…

Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar. Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg. QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 091 330 49 88, medo@ tesla.bar. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­6­E­B­X­W VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don't need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, info@vintageindustrial-bar.com, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 -05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Closed Mon. P­T­6­E­B­X­W

CLUBS KLUB. Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n' roll and indie to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14-16, zvone.pusic@ gmail.com, www.subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N­X­W PEPERMINT What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans two-storeys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party appetite.

QB‑2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www. pepermint-zagreb.com. Open Tue - Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

P­J­A­G­X­W SAX! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can't miss.QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg. hr, www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. N­G­W 44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM KABINET 5REKOVIĆ Located in an alleyway in Zagreb's business district, this grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,' by locals. It's not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don't forget to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85, industry1972@gmail.com, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. J­6­E­N­X­W SIRUP Sirup moved to a new location, the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now situated behind the main train station. At night, the building gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London atmosphere. The music is so intense that you'll feel the notes vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights!QJ‑3, Koturaška cesta 1, sirupfun@gmail.com, www.sirupclub.com. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

PUBS BIKERS BEER FACTORY Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers' world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, bikers.beer. factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

P­T­6­E­N­B­X­W SHERIDAN'S PUB Croatia doesn't really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia's only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They're also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you're fond of your pint of plain then that's a good thing.QSavs‑ ka 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@ gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W

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Sightseeing

I love Pešća - The Događanja Gallery Archives

ESSENTIAL ZAGREB BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE (TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There's a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count's image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO (MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it's a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.

QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo is open 09:00 - 16:00 (December, January), 09:00 - 17:00 (February), 09:00 - 18:00 (March), ticket office 09:00 15:00 (December, January), 09:00 - 16:00 (February), 09:00 - 17:00 (March). Admission 15 - 20kn.

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MIROGOJ CEMETERY Croats in the capital city don't mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb's main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.

ST MARK'S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash Winter 2015/2016 45

Sightseeing that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn't been touched since. Today you'll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita bb.

Alojzije Stepinac’s misnica - The Museum of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac Archives

TOP 5 SECRET THINGS TO SEE IN ZAGREB A PORTRAIT OF THE DAUGHTER OF SAMUEL BERGER Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters.

GIRL WITH A BIRD Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits.

LIBER LINTEUS ZAGREBIENSIS A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased

by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.

Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.

STJEPAN ERDÖDY JUMP Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.

THE HOLY TRINITY This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY (KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it's in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it's undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you've been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don't forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it's heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It's reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM (MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 20 - 30kn. U CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr.

Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑ ets 15 - 30kn. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, info@moderna-galerija.hr, www. moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www. brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, info@muzejiluzija.hr, www.muzejiluzija. com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnickimuzej@tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@ mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U Kerubin Gallery at Upper Town, see more page 52 and 59.

GALLERIES ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you'll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART (KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA) Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 25kn. U

LANDMARKS THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (DRŽAVNI ARHIV) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb.

This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+3851) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, hda@arhiv.hr, www.arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON (KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon.

piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

TOMISLAV GOTOVAC FOOTPRINTS Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?

Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you try!QC‑2, Ilica 8.

CURIOSITIES FUNICULAR Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.

ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire

THE GREEN HORSESHOE (ZELENA POTKOVA) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of

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Winter 2015/2016 49

Sightseeing ZAGREB HEROINES

Štefica Vidačić - Miss Zagreb & Miss Europe

Marija Jambrišak - Demanded equal pay for women teachers and a tireless campaigner for the rights of Croatian people Marija Jurić Zagorka - One of the best Croatian novelists ever and the first woman journalist in the country

50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

We present to you the names of Zagreb’s most illustrious dames, ladies who truly left their mark on the city’s fortunes, and who were featured in an exhibition celebrating women’s role in society a couple of years back.

We’re focused on the past here, so if you feel your name, gentle damsel, has been missed off the list, it just means you haven’t yet passed the test of time. And who wants to rush things? Here are the maids of honour… Ivana Hirschmann - Zagreb’s first female physical education teacher was famous for her short haircut, extrovert dress sense and penchant for smoking cigarettes! Ms Hirschmann did much to make sport acceptable for women at the beginning of the 20th century. Tragically, she ended her life in Auschwitz - she was a member of Zagreb’s Jewish community. Marija Jambrišak - This brave lady stood up in 1871 and demanded equal pay for woman teachers, and was also a tireless campaigner for the rights of Croatian people.

Thanks to her efforts, the first state school for women in the Austro-Hungarian Empire opened in Opatička ulica, and still bears her name today. Marija Jurić Zagorka - One of the best loved Croatian novelists ever, Zagorka was also the first woman journalist in the country. She was interested in witch hunts, which took place in Zagreb in the 17th and 18th centuries, and based one of her most famous tales, “The Witch from Grič” on the true story of an attractive and prosperous widow who was burned at the stake by an envious society.

She fought against discrimination in all its forms. Barbara Kovačić - Worked in the corn mills which were essential to the survival of 15,000 inhabitants of Zagreb. Paula Landsky - Today, you’re quite likely to spot that your tram driver sports a slick of make-up and a good manicure (men’s grooming has come on in leaps and bounds these days). But when Paula Landsky first started work as a conductor selling tickets on Zagreb trams this wasn’t such a common sight.

Resplendent in an imposing uniform and with a carriage befitting her pride in her work, Landsky was a legendary sight on Zagreb’s tram network for decades, and lived to see her 101st birthday. Vjera Marjanović-Krajovan - the first woman to gain a doctorate in science and technology from the University of Zagreb (1928). Katarina Matanović - The first Croatian woman to gain a pilot’s licence (1935), and the first woman in Eastern Europe to take a parachute jump (1938), later flew military aircraft as an officer in the air force during World War II. Štefica Vidačić - Although beauty contests today still attract their share of media attention, nothing can compare to the hysteria that surrounded the 1927 Miss Zagreb contests in the Hotel Esplanade. Later that year, the winner, Štefica Vidačić, came home to a crowd of thousands after winning the title Miss Europe in Berlin - making her the most successful Croatian beauty to this day. Uršula Volf - A chimneysweep is quite a common sight in Zagreb still today, but a female one is one we’ll bet you haven’t seen anywhere. But in 19th century Zagreb, one Uršula Volf not only swapped her delicate gowns for a set of overalls, but also came to be head of the Guild of Chimneysweeps. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives.

The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C‑3/4.

ZAGREB MUMMY Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 184849, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.

ZAGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

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Winter 2015/2016 51

Shopping SHOPPING MALLS A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

ANTIQUES APARTMAN Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.

QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A HNK ART SHOP Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@ hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on.

A MSU SHOP A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. MUO SHOP Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+3851) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A

52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

GALERIJA KERUBIN Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr,www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

A GOOD OLD VINYL DANCING BEAR CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja. zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A DIRTY OLD SHOP The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, info@dirtyoldempire. com, www.dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CROATIAN DESIGN CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting and furniture. It's a fab place to find unique gifts and original souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia. Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, croatiandesignsuperstore@gmail.com, www. croatiandesignsuperstore.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. LOVE_ANA A recently established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana's own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@ takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.

Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin.

Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

ULIČNI ORMAR The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6

CLOTHES BOUDOIR A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic, womanly and full of romance. Read the whole interview with Martina and Morana, page 25.QC‑1, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs.

Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.com, www.dora-rubic. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. AJ

JEWELRY JOZEF GJONI They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO At Lapidarium, you can find a galore of engagement and wedding rings, earrings, bracelets, as well as necklaces that are described as 'a new dimension' of jewelry. Create your own signature piece, with never before seen styles, that will have you setting fashion trends.QC‑1, Radićeva 10, lapidarium@net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J­A MEDAKOVIĆ Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, rmedakovic@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N

SHOES & ACCESORIES August Šenoa - The Goldsmith’s Treasure - The first Croatian historical novel, a tale of forbidden love in the 16th century Zagreb (also translated to English - find it at Take Me Home, Croatian Design Shop, Tomićeva 4, other available places see at www.facebook.com/thegoldsmithstreasure)

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

A SHOO A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.

Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita's shoes are walking sex.QD‑2, Martićeva 19, ashoo@ashoo.net, www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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CEROVEČKI Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

DELICATESSEN

KREDENCA GIFT SHOP Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products manufactured from all four corners of the country. This cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 278 20 40/(+385-) 091 544 72 94, info@kredenca.com, www.kredenca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A PINKLEC DELICIJA Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palattepleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

BONKULOVIĆ DELICACIES Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic.com, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A ČAJOTEKA All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im‑ portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka. info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A CROP STORE Crop Store is a great place to call into if you're hunting for Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and honey. If we were to list everything then we'd still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 28, info@crop.com.hr, www.crop.com.hr.

Open 10:00 - 22:00.

GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter 2015/2016 55

Shopping

FRED cufflinks - bracelets by Diana Sokolić

JEWELLERY BY DIANA SOKOLIĆ Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić received the silver award for fashion design (FRED cufflinks - bracelets) at the International Design Competition in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was presented by British Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar.

This year, and at the same contest, she received the bronze award for her fashion design (Lacey bracelets) made with lace, and was once again famed by British Vogue. This jewellery can be purchased at the Contemporary Art Museum (Avenija Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts and Crafts Museum (Trg maršala Tita 10) and via www. dianas.it MONOGRAPH OF MIROSLAV ŠUTEJ - MOBILE SERIGRAPHS - AUTHORS: SLAVICA MARKOVIĆ AND ZVONKO MAKOVIĆ Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of the late 20th century, and the name of a prominent international graphic artist. Find his monograph at the Cabinet of Graphics HAZU (Andrije Hebranga 1).

Monograph of Miroslav Šutejracelets by Diana Sokolić

NECKLACES BY NENAD ROBAN Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form follows the artist - A project conceived as a kind of ‘hommage’ or tribute to certain individuals in the field of design, architecture and fine art. You can purchase their works at the Croatian Design Superstore (Martićeva 4).

REGENERACIJA CARPETS Find your authentic interior perosnalised woolen carpets at Boškovićeva 7b. Various projects relating to regeneration coincide with the works of young Croatian designers whose ideas along with new technology create a new generation of carpets that are real works of art.

Master of Croatian Naïve Art - Ivan Lacković Croata, Kerubin Gallery (Photo by Višnja Arambašić)

AFFORDABLE ART BOWLS AND PLATES BY LIDIA BOŠEVSKI If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia Boševski at Vlaška 81a. After completing a degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and clothing design, as well as product design followed by ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.

56 Zagreb In Your Pocket

REPLICAS OF CERAMIC PLATES BY EDO MURTIĆ Edo Murtić was known for his versatility and creative development of expression in a variety of artistic techniques. In particular, he nurtured a passion for ceramics.

Replica ceramic plates can be found at the Museum of Arts and Crafts Shop (Trg maršala Tita 10).

REPLICAS OF THE GALLE LAMP AND MINIATURE OF JESUS At the Kerubin Gallery, on Kamenita 15, you can find replicas of Galle lamp, laminated glass height is 54 cm from around the 1980s, and miniatures of Jesus, monastic work, from the 1780s era, dimensions are 16x13 cm.

SAŠA ŠEKORANJA BADGES The artist has made a set of artistic badges with motifs of stylised flowers which are taken from his very own paintings, then photographed and further customised in the shape of a badge. These can be found in the flower Gallery Saša Šekoranja (Dežmanov prolaz 1). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

SHATRO GALERIA This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab, Vis, as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself.

These products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams from not so common fruits such as planika (Irish strawberry), and plavac - a grape variety also present in wine form on the shelves. A full rundown of everything available would take pages…QC‑2, Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+3851) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

QUIRKY STORES BON TON A fusion of music, art, and fashion, this addition to Zagreb's music scene promises exhibitions, lectures, as well as live DJ sets and concerts all aimed at bringing together those who have a soft spot for vinyl, disco, funk, electronica, and much much more.QB‑2, Dežmanova 5, www.bontongallery.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GLASS ART ATELIER STAKLIĆ - GABRIEL GALLERY Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs from the Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Keep the magic of Zagreb with you with the ultimate glass souvenir. Simply announce yourself earlier by email: staklic@staklic.hr.QE‑1, Voćarska 25, staklic@ staklic.hr, www.vitrajidominique.com. Open 09:00 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. JASMINA I LUTKICE A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

KLOTO Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A ROBA STORE Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Pe‑ tra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, store@roba. com.hr. Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N SHPITZA BOUTIQUE A sweet vintage concept shop, here you will find all you need from Spanish brand Kling, an array of home décor from London, jewellery from Croatian designers, as well as local artwork. And the great thing about the Croatian items on sale here is that they're only allowed to be sold if the artist and the work have an interesting tale to tell behind them.QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 69, shpitza. boutique@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 -20:00, Sat 10:00 -15:00. Closed Sun. SILVER CLUB Men have it easy. Need a tux? Rent one! Need a shirt? Every store carries them! Thankfully for the women of Zagreb, Silver Club is here to meet your needs. Want a bag or necklace to go with your new dress? Silver Club can hook you up. Silver Club is a members only accessory boutique which rents out jewellery, bags, and the like, for two week periods. It may sound unusual, but the foot traffic speaks for itself. Silver Club does sell some smaller items, and once or twice per year will hold a members only clear-out of rotating stock. Ladies, take a look, because you won't be disappointed.QB‑2, Ilica 47/a, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 94, www.silverclubrentafashion.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J Winter 2015/2016 57

Shopping STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A VEŠMAŠINA Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top of Opatovina. Caters to hipster kids, those needing classic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, accessories galore! If you're having difficulty picking up some unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC‑1, Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, info@vesmasina. com, www.vesmasina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

LAST MINUTE GIFTS PAPRENJAK - COOKIES Mention of this sweet and peppery treat is found as far back as the Renaissance. There is mention of its popularity amongst the early inhabitants of Gradec (now Gornji Grad) in Augusta Šenoe’s book ‘The Goldsmith’s Gold.’

These small, rectangular pastries are made using honey, walnuts and pepper.

ZLATNI LICITAR (GOLDEN LICITAR) Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough, the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia’s cultural heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this colourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb and a classic souvenir.

EVIL RAKIJA Rakija is unquestionably the juice of the devil, or maybe that of the most severely distorted angel out there. Like a brandy, this product is the result of fermentation of only natural plants and fruits. We highly recommend that you ingest a fair share of the stuff, only be careful for the effect creeps up on you like Father Satan himself. Here’s a few staff favourites, sampled with only the great care and wisdom of the most mature and practiced drinker: Name Fermented Where it’s from Travarica grass Dalmatia Šljivovica plumb Lika Kruškovača pear Lika Medica honey Istria Lozovača grape Dalmatia Jabukovača apple Slavonia 58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CITY CENTRE SHOPPING 1

Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+3851) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www. galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

2

4

ANTIQUES

5

3

1 StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

COMICS

ACCESSORIES

Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail. com, www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

2 Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

3 Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00

GIFTS

VINTAGE

4 Photo by Žarko Bašić/Pixell

5

Hotels Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior.

Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 STARS ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade. hr. 208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €129 - 224, 48 Delux Rooms €139 - 179, 13 Delux Suite €219 - 279, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­L­E­G ­B­K­D­W hhhhh SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotelsheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). P­­J­H ­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­W hhhhh THE WESTIN ZAGREB QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www. hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­ B­K­D­X­C­W hhhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

4 STARS ARCOTEL ALLEGRA QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels. com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170).P­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­I ­F ­L ­E ­G ­B ­K ­D ­S­w­W hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr.

100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Su‑ perior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­U­L­G ­K­W hhhh DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON ZAGREB QJ‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com.

152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­D ­C­W hhhh DUBROVNIK QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 07, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hoteldubrovnik.hr. 222 rooms (77 singles €89 - 99, 87 King Twin Rooms €115 - 119, 50 Delux Rooms €129 - 145, 4 Junior Suites €160, 3 Executive Suites €185, 1 Presidential Suite €500). P­O­T­J­H­A­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­X­W hhhh HOTEL INTERNATIONAL QC‑4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+3851) 610 86 44, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotelinternational.hr. 207 rooms (140 singles €70 - 130, 56 dou‑ bles €80 - 143, 8 triples €150 - 196, 1 suite €219, 1 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). P­­O­T­H­A ­R­6­U­F­L­G­K­D­W hhhh PALACE QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace. hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 - 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 - 185). P­T­J ­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­W hhhh

3 STARS CENTRAL QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. 76 rooms (38 singles €65 - 75, 29 doubles €85 90, 5 triples €115 - 120, 4 apartments €140). P­­H­A ­R­W hhh zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Hotels JADRAN QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P­J­A­ R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh JÄGERHORN QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn. hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, 2 apartments €159). P­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

AROUND THE AIRPORT ARISTOS QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+3851) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotel-aristos. hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150, 134 doubles €84 - 160, 7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X ­S­W hhhh BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www. hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141). P­A­U­ LG­W hhh

HOMESTAYS EVISTAS QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385) 091 533 70 96f, ax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. 21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105).

P­AL­G INZAGREB QH‑5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@ inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. P­Z­T­A­R­6 ­U­F­G­B­C­W

MOUNTAIN HIGH APARTMENT HOUSE SNJEŽNA KRALJICA .Qoutskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme.hr. 17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €90, 1 8-bedded apartment €155). P­T­H­A­6­U­I­F ­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhhh TOMISLAVOV DOM QSljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+3851) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh.hr, www.sljeme.hr.

41 rooms (11 singles €40, 14 doubles €56, 16 triples €60).

T­H­A­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhh

Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express - Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

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Winter 2015/2016 61

Directory BUSINESS CONNECTIONS

POST

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QK‑3, Radnička 47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www. amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they're right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

CENTRAL POST OFFICE QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTREPRENEURSHIP QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

LAWYERS HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN BAR ASSOCIATION) Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

NOTARIES HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through.

QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

POSTAL RATES Letters up to 50 gr

Croatia Abroad Postcards (standard) Croatia Abroad

3,10kn 7,10kn 1,60 kn 3,10 kn

TAX VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.

Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

PHARMACY 0-24 CENTRAL PHARMACY QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.

DUBRAVA QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.

ILICA QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.

OZALJSKA QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.

SIGET QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2015 62

Street register Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2

Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1

ZGH Archives Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1

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2 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE 3 LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE 4 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC 5 PREČKO - MAKSIMIR 6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT 7 SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA 8 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ 11 ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC 12 LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA 13 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG 14 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE 17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ

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Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb

Gupčeva zvijezda

MEDVEŠČAK

BRITANSKI TRG

6 11 2 ČRNOMEREC

15 DOLJE

Jandrićeva Radićevo šetalište

JANDRIĆEVA

MANDALIČINA

PODRUŽNICA ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ

KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a Informacije: 060 100 001* Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060 www.zet.hr *poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min, iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).

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15 MIHALJEVAC 8 14

ZAGREBAČKI HOLDING

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REGULAR TRAM SERVICES

Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

Služba komunikacija i marketinga

Lj

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4

8

TRAM st. u oba smjera TRAM stop - both directions TRAM st. u jednom smjeru TRAM stop - one direction Autobusni terminali BUS terminal Naziv ulice Street name

ZAPRUĐE 14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM. ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.

29.10.2014.