Zagreb In Your Pocket No84

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Summer 2016

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Must Do’s In Zagreb All within 24 hours

Nikola Tesla

160 years since the birth

‘Gablec’ Or Lunch The difference being...

N°84 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Contents Local Flavour

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

6

A word of welcome

Arrival & Getting Around

8

We unravel the A to Z of travel

Zagreb Basics 11 All the things you need to know about Zagreb

Beat the Summer Heat

12

Good reasons to be in Zagreb during summer

24 Hours in Zagreb 14 Discover what we’ve uncovered

Nikola Tesla 16 A master of lightning

Culture & Events

18

Let’s fill up that social calendar of yours

Zagreb Pulse

35

Keep tradition with cuisine

27

City people, city trends

Restaurants 29 Lunch or dinner, you pick

Coffee & Cakes

38

What a pleasure

Nightlife

40

Bop ‘till you drop

Sightseeing

44

Snap, camera, action

Shopping

53

Ready for a shopping spree

Hotels

61

Welcome: sit, relax and enjoy

List of Small Features Festival of World Literature Let’s Do Lunch Affordable Art City Centre Shopping

Maps Street Register Transport Map City Centre Map City Map

22 35 58 60 63 63 64-65 66

Art Park - Photo by Silvio Lončarić

Art Park is located between Tomićeva street, Ilica and the Strossmayer promenade in Zagreb’s Upper town. Running from June through September, the program at Art Park includes workshops, film screenings, exhibitions and other events which will be sure to enrich the summer season in Zagreb. Follow Pimp My Pump FB page for more information. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2016 7

Foreword The heat is on dear travellers and you’ve arrived to Croatia’s metropolis, Zagreb. The@InYourPocket city thrives at this time of year as more and more tourists bypass the Capital either to or from the coast. The summer calendar is choc a bloc full of jovial excitement with lots of outdoor events, festivals and concerts. Check out ‘Summer on Stross’, the ‘Changing of the Guard’ and the ‘Zagrebvine.co/inyourpocket Time Machine’ where city legends and forgotten tales are bought back to life through real life re-enactments. In this sizzling issue, we have prepared a special feature named ‘Zagreb in 24 hours’, a zesty round up of must see, must do activities if you’re here for one day only. We also have a feature article on the Croatian scientist Nikola Tesla marking 160 years since his birth, and as part of the article we take a glimpse at the exhibitions you can see if visiting the Technical Museum of Nikola Tesla. Our Loyoutube.com/inyourpocket cal Flavour segment promptly differentiates brunch from lunch, in the eyes of Croats that is, whilst our Nightlife category brings you the latest on what’s pulsating once the moon rises and the stars begin to shine. As always, you can find the perfect souvenir as a memento or gift in our Shoppinterest.com/inyourpocket ping special. Wishing you a wonderful summer stay from the IYP team!

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732

Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić What’s going on?

Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja

Where’s the party?

Editorial Editor facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Roman Simić Bodrožić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić All the latest news Community Manager Eli Gajinov Designfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Lovro Boljat Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Julien Duval - INmusic Festival Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac

contents online: COVERFull STORY

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Copyright notice Text, maps??city??.inyourpocket.com and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the Notowner. listed publisher and copyright The here? brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu Over 250 ??chapter?? reviews online:9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after ??city??.inyourpocket.com publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

Zagreb throughout summer is full of concerts, festivals and various events. reviews online: Moreoutdoor ??chapter??

Wherever you turn there is ??city??.inyourpocket.com something on for young and old so take your pick and live it up!

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8 Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

BY PLANE Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.

Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.

Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.

Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www. zagreb-airport.hr.

The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

BY BUS The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English.

Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you.

For proponents of public transportation a tram is your 10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.

MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.

BY TRAIN Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/ per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.

QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@ tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the stand00 ard price for tickets.

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MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, 5 www.hzpp.hr.

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT 5 TRAMS & BUSES Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić.

The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default. aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

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THE SLJEME BUS LINE 00 The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends 5 between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

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BIKING Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, 5more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Summer 2016 11

Arrival & Getting Around

+385 1 1414 ww w.e ko ta xi. hr

co2

NEUTRAL

100% Co2 neutral

pet friendly - order specially equiped car on hour before going to the desired destination

baby friendly - order a car one hour before going to the desired destination

hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

CAR RENTAL Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.

PARKING STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

TAXIS EKO TAXI QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04 55, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr.

smartphone app

RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ (+385-1) 17 17, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radiotaksi-zagreb.hr.

TAXI CAMMEO Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxicammeo.hr.

12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb Basics CUSTOMS

TOILETS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

VISAS

ELECTRICITY

All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-)112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

Summer 2016 13

Beat The Summer Heat Being a concrete city, the heat can definitely turn up a notch in Zagreb and let’s face it, we all need an escape from the hot temperatures every once in a while. So allow us to do the thinking and we’ll leave you with the decision making.

LET THE SUN SHINE! We pooled our ideas to find good reasons to be in Zagreb during summer. Here they are: 1. You can park without driving around in circles for hours, and your journey takes half the normal time - yippee!

2. You know that everybody who’s on holiday is dealing with tourist traffic and fighting for space on the beaches and in the bars and restaurants. Those in the know go in September.

3. You have the pick of seats in the pavement cafes - the local café crawlers are on holiday.

4. The city is full of tourists and backpackers, has a rare cosmopolitan feel, and you have the chance to meet new people on an evening out.

5. You can enjoy promenade concerts on Saturdays and Sundays in the shade of the lovely Zrinjevac park, surrounded by trees, fountains and art nouveau architecture.

6. You can spend long, lazy evenings lingering over a drink or a meal in the balmy air.

7. You can laze away an afternoon with a book in Maksimir park, then munch grilled meats to your heart’s content in a barbecue restaurant.

8. You can swim in the open air pools at Šalata and Mladost 9. For a break from the heat of the city, why not head for Zagreb’s botanical garden, a veritable oasis of peace and green. What’s more, entry is free!

10. Or spend a day lazing in the sunshine and soaking in thermal water at a Zagorje spa, then treat yourself to a hearty meal in a cosy traditional Zagorje restaurant.

11. It’s a great time of year to go hiking or biking around Zagreb County.

12. There are loads of exhibitions on in the museums and galleries - a great way to escape the heat of the day.

13. Escape the crowds and enjoy fresh air, leafy shade, green meadows and great food on Mount Medvednica.

14. Take in a concert or a theatre performance at the Amadeo summer stage in the atmospheric courtyard of the

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Natural History Museum in the Upper Town.

15. Or enjoy costumed period theatre and comedy at the Zagreb Histrionic Summer festival, in the park at the top of Opatovina street.

16. Show off your skills rollerblading at Jarun Lake, followed by a dip, loads of sports, kids’ stuff, food and drink.

17. Devour delicious home-made ice cream from the cake shops and ice cream parlours.

18. Know that you’ll have cheaper prices when you go to the sea out of peak season.

19. If you’d like to try a real Thai massage, then visit the center for Thai massages, Thai Center Thalea (Dalmatinska 3/1), where you will be welcomed by verified massage therapists from Thailand. For more information visit: www.thaicentarthalea.com.

SUMMER CINEMAS Enjoy your summer evenings by watching movies outdoors, and if you missed a film or more at the Europa Cinema, fear not as reruns are held throughout summer.

EUROPA CINEMA Tuesdays and Thursdays are reruns of films that were shown during the year with subtitles in English.QB‑2, Varšavska 3, www.kinoeuropa.hr.

GRADEC SUMMER CINEMA Missing out on this ever more popular summer cinema is almost criminal. The open-air venue gives Zagreb-ites another appealing July and August time option in addition to the sea, and a deeply artistic one at that! And don’t forget: watching a great movie can sometimes lead to places further than the largest oceans.QC‑1, Katarinin trg, www.ljetnokinogradec.com.

TUŠKANAC SUMMER CINEMA Find summer stage Tuškanac which will have a triple line up in July. The first week is dedicated to screenings from the Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival, then from July 10 to 16 visitors can expect a festival of European Film, and from July 17 to 23, reruns from the Zagreb Film Festival will be shown.QB‑1, Tuškanac, www.zagreb.hr.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Beat The Summer Heat

SWIMMING Stuck in the city and can’t get to the sea? Never fear. Open air bathing opportunities abound. The first place that springs to mind is Jarun or Bundek Lake, where the pebble beaches may convince you found the real thing. If you prefer, there are swimming pools in the city and in surroundings.

MLADOST QH‑4, Jarunska 1, tel. (+385-1) 365 85 55, www.sportskiobjekti. hr. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 15 - 30kn.

SVETICE QK‑2, Maksimirska cesta 126, tel. (+385-1) 642 14 42, www. sportskiobjekti.hr. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 22:00. Tickets 15 - 25kn. ŠALATA QD‑1, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55, www. sportskiobjekti.hr. Open 13:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Tickets 10 - 30kn.

UTRINA QJ‑5, Kombolova 4a, tel. (+385-1) 642 14 00, www. sportskiobjekti.hr. Open 06:00 - 08:00, 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 08:00, 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 13:00 - 17:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:00. August 18 - 31 Closed. Tickets 15 - 25kn.

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LIFECLASS TERME SVETI MARTIN AQUAPARK QIzvorska 3, Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 37 11 11, info@termesvetimartin.com, www.spa-sport.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, From June 10 - September 04 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Tickets 47- 67kn, children 30 - 57kn, family 146 - 176kn. A TERME TUHELJ, VODENI PLANET QLjudevita Gaja 4, Tuheljske Toplice, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 12, vodeni.planet@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 35 - 75kn, children 25 - 45kn, family 95 - 230kn. A THERMAL SPA CENTER AQUAE VIVAE, KRAPINSKE TOPLICE QUl.Antuna Mihanovića 1a, Krapinske Toplice, tel. (+38549) 50 19 99, info@aquae-vivae.hr, www.aquae-vivae.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Tickets 50 - 90kn, children 35-60kn, family 130-220kn.

BOOK DAILY TRIP CROATIA ACTIVE Offering an abundant amount of tours, Croatia Active is here to make your travelling stress free. From island hopping and adventure tours, to inland nature walks, vineyards or inland tours, they have all the information and offer the very best service and advice.Qwww.croatiaactive.com.

Summer 2016 15

24 Hours In Zagreb

Photo by Julien Duval - Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

MORNING GLORY If you have reached our capital in the early hours of the morning then rise and shine for the smell of coffee is only a stone throw away and we recommend a hot sip to start your day. Let it be known, coffee culture is almost biblical in Croatia. And if you happen to arrive on a Saturday morning, then you’re just in time for Špica, which is where local city folk head out for coffee, mingling and giggling as they talk about their week, hot city topics and more. Dress code is pretty suave as this is when there is a true buzz in the air, and it’s right in the heart of town.

Simply find a seat on Flower Square, order your beverage and see how the citizens of Zagreb breathe, sensing that impulse of the city, there and then.

Next on the agenda, head on up to the Dolac Market, the heart and soul of the city and the place to taste authentic fresh food from nearby town surroundings. The market is out in the open and if you head down to the indoor level, the dairy section is filled with specialty cheeses and creams. We suggest you buy a fine loaf of real Zagorje corn bread, and then add some cheese and sour cream for your very first breakfast in Zagreb.

After Dolac, head to the corner of Cesarčeva and Bakačeva Street where you will find a scaled model of Zagreb in a nutshell; a so called mini me version of the city. With the model you will get a perspective of what the centre of Zagreb looks like and where exactly you will pass whilst promenading the city streets.

Next on the agenda is a mere walk up to the Zagreb Cathedral fittingly named the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Upon entry, visit its Treasury filled with fascinating liturgical relics whilst the Sacristy holds an altarpiece depicting the Calvary, a discernible artwork from the famous painter Albrecht Dürer.

16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Heading away from the cathedral across Skalinska Street and Krvavi Most, your next destination ought to be the Stone Gate which is one of the age old entrances to the Upper Town. Whilst on the way, do check for the exact time of day by looking at the Sun Clock on Tkalčićeva Street; it was made by Božidar Jušić in 1955 as part of his Masters studies. The Stone Gate is one of the symbols of the city of Zagreb and it maintains a painting of Our Lady which is one of the oldest of its kind and owned by the city.

In 1931, it was adorned with a crown of gold and gems. As tradition would have it, light a candle whilst at the Stone Gate to help spread peace and solidarity throughout the world.

The Upper Town is the historical centre of the city and is definitely coated with an abundant history. Get your camera ready and your sightseeing journey should entail the Church of Saint Mark with its multi-coloured bell tower and picturesque roof adorned with various coats of arms, and the interior is filled with frescoes by Jozo Kljaković and savoured works by the great Ivan Meštrović.

Lunch is almost upon you so before you settle for a wellearned meal, hop on down to Basaričekova Street for a beer in Zagreb’s oldest inn Pod starim krovovima, translated as ‘Under the old roofs’, this used to be known as Beer Street as the city’s first brewery was established here long ago.

One final stop off point is the plateau on Gradec which offers a majestic panoramic view of Zagreb, the perfect moment to soak in Croatia’s capital for all its beauty. We did say one final stop but you just have to take a snapshot with the sitting statue of the legendary Croatian writer Antun Gustav Matoš on a nearby park bench for the perfect selfie. Finally, you can head down to the city centre via the famous funicular which takes approximately 64 seconds.

We say you time it, just for the fun of it all! zagreb.inyourpocket.com

24 Hours In Zagreb ZOOM ZOOM AFTERNOON Lunch is calling and when in Zagreb do as the Zagrebians do! You simply have to choose from one of the restaurants and try some of the local specialties on offer. Keep an eye out for zagorska purica i mlinci, better known as Zagorje turkey with dried flatbread. This traditional meal is a ‘must try’ that had been served at both Viennese and English courts long ago. For lovers of food more green and natural, there are various homemade stews with vegetables to tingle everyone’s taste buds.

After lunch, take a walk to Park Zrinjevac, you’ll come across the meteorological column on the northern side which gives you the exact temperature in degrees, or relax under the age old trees which offer plenty of cover.

Further down, the statue of King Tomislav stands mighty and proud and is in the direction of the Esplanade Hotel, a stopping ground for the once famous Orient Express.

Here is where you can devour the famous dessert known as štrukle. Once your back on your feet and reenergised, amble along to the Maršal Tito Square and head towards the Museum of Arts and Crafts, here you can get a compelling copy of a platter depicting the triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne, which was created in a workshop on Dean Street in London, and has for a long time been part of the Museum’s collection. You can also see the bronzed clock marking the first flight of the balloon in 1783 by the Montgolfier brothers. Close by is the Croatian National Theatre, an architectural delight with the famous wall fountain The Source of Life by Ivan Meštrović.

EVENTFUL EVENING As the sun sets the buzz in the air moves to another level in the heart of town! You’re best to select from one of the restaurants to wine and dine to kick off your night. If you like good beer, take the opportunity in trying local ‘craft’ beer or dabble in some Croatian wines in one of the wine bars.

Zagreb residents love to socialise in bars, and you’ll find a strong contingent at good rock, pop and jazz gigs. If you are keen for more, check out the local tourist guides and concerts in local clubs and venues.

And finally, before you say goodbye to Zagreb, pay a last visit to the main square, give the statue of Ban Jelačić a cheerio for it is the central monument of the square. Last minute goodies can be found nearby at the famous Croatian Kraš chocolate and candy store, don’t forget to visit the Manduševac Fountain on the main square also, soak in the atmosphere for a minute and imagine yourself throwing in a coin and making a wish as was permissible long ago, maybe even a wishful return trip to Zagreb.

FUN FACT The three main chandeliers in the Zagreb cathedral once decorated the Gold Coast Casino in Las Vegas! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Nikola Tesla

Nikola Tesla - Technical Museum Nikola Tesla Archives

This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla.

Born July 10th 1856 in the small village of Smiljan, near Gospić, in Lika County. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison.

Working as an electrical engineer for the Edison Company, Tesla was given the task of redesigning their direct current (DC) generators. The two men soon had a falling out however, after Edison reneged on allegedly having promised fifty thousand dollars to Tesla if he could complete the job; which, after months of work, Tesla did. When told by Edison that, “Tesla, you don’t understand our American humour,” Tesla immediately resigned.

A few years later, in 1887, Tesla developed a functional induction motor that ran on alternating current (AC), a system with many advantages over DC because of its long-distance, high voltage transmission. This caught the attention of George Westinghouse, an American entrepreneur and engineer, who hired Tesla to work for him in Pittsburgh and help create an AC system for the cities streetcars. Tesla was soon sucked into the “War of Currents,” waged between Edison and Westinghouse, a rivalry over which system was the best for distributing electricity. Edison, with his patents, was on the side of DC, while Westinghouse, having now acquired the patent to Tesla’s induction motor, advocated the use of AC. This competition between the two men led to a multitude of developments in both technologies, and eventually even led to Edison pursuing AC development also.

In summer of 1891, Nikola Tesla became a naturalised citizen of the United States at the age of 35. He established his laboratory in New York City on 5th Avenue.

In 1893, at the Chicago World’s Fair, Westinghouse was finally able to demonstrate to the world the advantages AC power had to offer. Under the name of the “Tesla Polyphase System”, Tesla personally dazzled the crowed with a series of electrical displays powered by AC. With the technology he was able to use high-frequency alternating current to wirelessly light a gas-discharge lamp, leaving observers in the room in astonishment.

Tesla went on to further experiment with (what were later identified as) X-rays. Unfortunately, a fire at his laboratory 18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

caused much of his work to be lost. Still, the scientist continued his research. He made developments in the realm of radio transmission, and event radio-controlled devices.

Tesla was even acknowledged by the United States Supreme Court in 1943 as the actual inventor of radio – something often disputed to this day. In fact, many of the details of Tesla’s life are in dispute; often one source will conflict with another, particularly over the early years of his life.

As Tesla’s life went on, he continuously struggled to find the proper funding for his experiments. His genius, and what were at the time revolutionary ideas, helped to create a ‘mad scientist’ persona. There was, and still perhaps is, much speculation as to which of his ideas would have been able to come to fruition had the technology available to him been more advanced. Tesla was certainly a visionary and we can thank him for a plethora of advancements in technology that have helped propel the world forward. Towards the end of his life, he had fallen out of the public spotlight. He lived in the New Yorker Hotel until his death in 1943, at the age of 86.

Today, particularly in recent decades, there has been a resurgence of Tesla in popular culture. Perhaps most the most famous use of his name is in the popular Tesla Motors, an American electric car manufacturer that has pioneered electric vehicles using an AC induction motor designed by Nikola Tesla over 130 years ago.

A unit of measurement, the tesla (T), for measuring the strength of a magnetic field, was named in his honour in 1960. A picture of the units’ formula is shown on the 100 Serbian dinar banknote, alongside a picture of Nikola Tesla himself.

The 2006 science fiction thriller drama The Prestige, directed by Christopher Nolan depicts a reclusive Nikola Tesla played by David Bowie, who creates a fantastic electrical machine capable of transporting and duplicating anything placed inside of it.

This summer, on the 160th anniversary of his birth, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe. The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe .

Zagreb’s Technical Museum carries Tesla’s name, and it is here that you can see many of his devices, as well as various reconstructions of his experiments. Opened free to the public once per year, on the last Friday of January, this is literally the first place to be fully booked for the day (read more at page 47). From the months of May through June, the museum hosts the exhibit ‘Nature — the Laboratory of Colours’, which looks at the science and industry behind the use of colours in life over the generations, from building materials, clothes, and to the traditional dyed eggs seen everywhere during the Easter period. From June ‘till October the museum hosts the exhibit ‘Molecules That Changed The World’ (read more at page 20).

With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Noel Gallagher

CLASSICAL CONCERT 25.06 SATURDAY - 13.07 WEDNESDAY ZAGREB CLASSIC The King Tomislav Square will be converted to an outdoor stage setting with some amazing acts in the classical music genre. See the likes of the 2Cellos retuning to home soil and celebrating their 5th year together, the Slovenian/ Zagreb Philharmonics combined under the lead of Francesco Ivan Ciampa, soloists, the choir and orchestra from the Croatian National Theatre and more. Events are free and a true celebration of Croatian classical music today.

QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava, www.zagreb.hr.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 08.07 FRIDAY MAC DEMARCO Organisers of the ‘SuperUho festival’ announce the return of the popular musician Mac DeMarco. It has been almost three years since DeMarco’s Zagreb premier which was made memorable for his stage humour. This indie rock artist with his casual and unburdened attitude can work up a crowd and pop some great tunes at the same time; all amidst a few cigarettes in between.QI‑3, Large Yard behind Močvara Club / Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr.

Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets 80 - 120kn.

11.07 MONDAY AIRBOURNE Aussie rockers Airbourne are about to air out the Tvornica Kulture venue with their power driving riffs and rough rounded vocals. Led by the O’Keefe brothers, these coun20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

try boys have turned their passion into a lifestyle and have taken the rock world by storm. Influences include AC/DC, Iron Maiden, Thin Lizzy, Def Leppard and the mighty Rose Tattoo. Down Under thunder coming to town…QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 160 - 180kn.

15.07 FRIDAY MARKO TOLJA - AS A PART OF 35TH EVENINGS IN GRIČ Dubbed as Croatia’s Michael Buble, this young musician is not only a great singer and performer, but a heartthrob amongst female members of the audience. His musical repertoire will be a personal tribute to the festival, and include Tolja’s original songs and world evergreens.

QC‑1, Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.kdz.hr. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 150kn.

16.08 TUESDAY NOEL GALLAGHER’S - HIGH FLYING BIRDS Form lead singer of the British band Oasis, Noel Gallagher finally tours this part of the world and he blatantly requested Croatia be on the itinerary. Having parted with Oasis, he teamed up with former members of the Zutons and Lemon Trees to form his side project, very much influenced by music from Fleetwood Mac and Jefferson Airplane. The outdoor Šalata venue will host one of the greatest musicians of the last 3 decades.QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 170 - 220kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 21.08 SUNDAY CLUTCH Two decades on and Clutch are better than ever, one of the stalwarts and pioneers of stoner rock come to Zagreb for the very first time. Avid fans will be able to hear their classics as well as hits from their new album ‘Psychic Warfare’. The band derives from Maryland and is set to bring their forward-thinking alternative groove rock to Croatia’s capital.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120 - 140kn.

09.09 FRIDAY CAT POWER Charismatic singer/songwriter Charlyn Marie Marshall, better known as Cat Power, kicks off the autumn’s concert season with her indie/alternative/blues rock music. And even though her latest release was in 2012, it showed a change in musical direction for Marshall with electronic influences also embracing her sound. All in all, the long wait is finally over for all her passionate fans.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 140kn.

15.09 THURSDAY THE TALLEST MAN ON EARTH The man behind the name is Kristian Matsson, a young Swedish singer/guitar player and song writer who in the past 10 years has released 4 studio albums and taken the

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American music scene by storm. His indie style with a hint of folk music is often compared to Boy Dylan’s work who Matsson himself admits as being a major influence on his music.QB‑4, Student’s Centre Cinema, Savska cesta 25.

Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 150kn.

EXHIBITIONS 10.03 THURSDAY - 14.08 SUNDAY EXHIBITION ‘45’ Get a true insight into the wounds and wonders of the Croatian people in 1945 and beyond, the year which finally ended WW2 but to this day still has its scars and unresolved disputes. The exhibition presents key historical, political, cultural and social events relating to Croatia taken from 69 national and international museums, and 22 private lenders. From literature to the Church, Bleiburg to Communism, fashion to cartoons, fine arts to architecture and more, little is left untold.QB‑1, Croatian History Mu‑ seum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr.

16.03 WEDNESDAY - 21.08 SUNDAY BUDINJAK – THE FIELD OF TUMULI: ARCHAEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS 1995 – 2014 Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50 km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of

Summer 2016 21

Culture & Events JAZZ & BLUES CONCERT 07.07 THURSDAY AMIRA MEDUNJANIN - AS A PART OF 35TH EVENINGS IN GRIČ Dubbed the ‘Bosnain Billie Holliday’, Amira sings traditional Bosnian folk music characterised by a slow tempo mixture of Oriental, European and Sephardic elements with rich harmony and melancholic melody.

She reinvigorates songs dating hundreds of years with her unique and expressive voice.QC‑1, Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.kdz.hr.

Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 150 - 200kn.

the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the richest Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Za‑ greb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

12.05 THURSDAY - 30.09 FRIDAY NATURE – LABORATORY OF COLOURS: TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGY KNOWLEDGE The exhibition represents traditional knowledge methods of using and extracting dye from minerals, plants, vegetables and animals. It is based on research conducted in the extreme south of the Croatian peninsula and Konavle during 2015 and 2016. Workshops will be shown to guests of such processes and also the dry wall method of building and construction also.QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.

14.05 SATURDAY - 21.08 SUNDAY THE MAGNIFICENT VRANYCZANYS - AN ARTISTIC, HISTORICAL AND POLITICAL FRAMEWORK OF THE FAMILY Paying respect to this amazing noble family that has given so much to Croatia and its cities. The Vranyczanys included great philanthropists, patrons, donors and collectors, builders of representative structures, successful and progressive businessmen and drivers of social life in the cities in which they had lived (Stari Grad on Hvar, Senj, Rijeka, Karlovac, and Zagreb). Two years in the making, see historical documents, artefacts, artworks, archived works and more. A catalogue will highlight the indelible mark that the family has left with guided tours and concerts accompanying the exhibition!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Mu‑ seum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

01.06 WEDNESDAY - 23.10 SUNDAY MOLECULES THAT CHANGED THE WORLD An inspirational insight into the chemistry of all known molecules, molecules that are changing our lives, culture and society today! The centrepiece of the exhibition consists of a 3D projection of 25 molecules that have affected the development of chemistry and science in general.

Scientific, terrific!QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.

07.06 TUESDAY - 12.08 FRIDAY THE EXHIBITION ON THE FIRST CLASSIC OF CROATIAN DESIGN BERNARDO BERNARDI Dubbed the pioneer of Croatian design, Bernardi is most known for his miraculous work of bonding Nordic design within a European context. In 1960, he spent three months in Scandinavia forming impeccable contacts resulting in the beginning of a life-long bond. This exhibit brings to life Bernardi’s original drafts, photographs, notes, extensive correspondence with famous contemporaries and a selection of up to date surviving examples of furniture that were designed by Bernardi.QB‑1, The Croatian Museum of Architecture of the Academy of Sciences and Arts, Ulica I. Gorana Kovačića 37, info.hazu.hr.

08.06 WEDNESDAY - 31.07 SUNDAY THE 6TH BIENNIAL OF ILLUSTRATION Illustration has become the summer sensation at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery with another trademark event.

Foreign curators from Russia and Japan are set to partake with the focus of showing, explaining and documenting illustrations and animations, and an invited competition for Croatian authors based on the connection between book illustrations and animation will be had. See all the latest solutions and innovations in the field!QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.

2 Cellos

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

11.06 SATURDAY - 31.08 WEDNESDAY EXHIBITION OF DRAWINGS BY ÁLVARO SIZA AND MARIA ANTÓNIA SIZA ‘For me, drawing is the fastest way to communicate with oneself and with others’; these are the words of famous zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

architect Álvaro Siza. See his series of work that he completed in the Marian Sanctuary in Fátima, Portugal. He was the figurehead in designing a monumental mural in the chapel of the church, a theme dedicated to the life of St. Peter and Paul. Visitors will also be able to see the works of his late wife Maria Antónia Siza, side by side.QD‑3, Oris House of Architecture, Kralja Držislava 3, www.oris.hr.

16.06 THURSDAY - 15.08 MONDAY THE WILD WEST. A HISTORY OF WROCLAW’S AVANT-GARDE Though behind the iron curtain, the city of Wroclaw in Poland flourished in the 1960s and 70s in terms of art. It was a true phenomenon and this exhibition presents works of art, documentaries, photos and footage - almost 500 works of visual arts, architecture, theatre, film and design, capturing everyday life in Wroclaw through the eyes of avant-garde artists that had given art and culture meaning in such times! A comprehensive catalogue will accompany the exhibition.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Ave‑ nija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

08.09 THURSDAY - 21.10 FRIDAY KRISTINA LEKO - HOW THE PEOPLE LIVE? An interdisciplinary art project based on the book ‘How the people live?’ by Rudolf Bičanić, 1936. The author of the exhibit, Kristina Leko, brings to life the book and its characters, eight ordinary Croatian families living in passive and fairly poor localities. The museum is transferred to a real life village portraying each person, the floor plan facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

of each household, the building of one home in its entirety, original documentation and an emphasis on the economic and social dependence of the times, and its psychological effect. A travel back to a time long gone…

QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

13.09 TUESDAY - 24.09 SATURDAY ORGAN VIDA 2016 A festival of photography that promotes the works of international contemporary photographers and the advancement of photography in general! This year’s theme

BALLET 02.07 SATURDAY - 04.07 MONDAY BRUNO BJELINSKI AND GIORGIO MADIA PETER PAN Once upon a time in the land of Never Land lived Peter Pan and Tinker Bell… and so the classic fairy tale goes. Now a new and reinvigorated version is set to premiere which is based on Croatia’s Bruno Bjelinski’s famous 1966 rendition which premiered at the Croatian National Theatre that same year. And 50 years on, his work turns a new leaf with Italian choreographer Giorgio Madia putting his stamp on this enchanting story.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.

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Culture & Events ght’. His acclaimed works, ‘Thin People’, ‘Women in Venice’ and ‘The Man Who Walks’ will all be on show.QC‑3, Art pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

SPECIAL EVENTS

Amira Medunjanin

is ‘Revelations’ with an international panel of 6 judges choosing the top 10 finalists. Workshops, artists’ talks and lectures help stimulate critical thinking within the field as linked to social, political and world issues of today. Photos that evoke!QVarious locations across city, www. organvida.com.

20.09 TUESDAY - 08.01 SUNDAY ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: SCULPTURE, DRAWINGS, LITHOGRAPHS - PORTRETS OF THE PRESENT In the series ‘The greatest sculptors of the 20th century’, the next virtuoso on the agenda is Alberto Giacometti. Visitors to the Art Pavilion will have the unique opportunity in seeing around twenty drawings, as many lithographs and sculptures borrowed from the French Foundation ‘Mae-

FESTIVAL OF WORLD LITERATURE 04.09 SUNDAY - 11.09 SUNDAY Literature, illustrated novels, comics, movies made from literary works and — of course — their many authors from all over Europe: enjoy all this and more at the fourth Festival of World Literature. The festival runs from the 4th to the 11th of September, when Zagreb returns to its busy pace after taking a small break to enjoy the seaside. This greatly popular festival, takes place in one of the cultural centres of Zagreb: Kino Europa. The focus of this year’s edition is Italy: with a group of Italian writers and cartoonists, led by Claudio Magris. The festival will also feature other literary stars: Muriel Barbery, Péter Gárdos, Karl-Markus Gauß, Goran Vojnović, Dragan Velikić, Zerocalcare, Aleksandar Zograf and many others.The Festival of World Literature is certainly one of the year’s most important literary events taking place in Zagreb.

In collaboration with internationally renowned literary festivals,Vilenica from Slovenia and Cúirt from Ireland, the Festival of World Literature is part of the “Sharing the Wor(l)d” project. You too can be part of that world if you find yourself at one of the festival’s programs: interviews, screenings, and panel discussions.QB/C‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, www.literaturamundi.com.

24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

23.04 SATURDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.Qwww. kravatpukovnija.com.

23.04 SATURDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY ZAGREB TIME MACHINE Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

Qwww.infozagreb.hr.

26.05 THURSDAY - 04.09 SUNDAY STROSSMARTRE - SUMMER ON STROSS Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotršćak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

16.06 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY SUMMER IN MSU Sky high! Yep, the Museum’s rooftop turns into a mega stage with a great multimedia program, from live music, film screenings, literature panels and art, all in one. With amazing views, see some of Croatia’s top pop rock bands in Pips, Chips and Videoclips, Let 3, TBF and Psihomodo Pop will literally bring the roof down. International films can be seen in the Art Cinema Metropolis and more…

QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

28.06 TUESDAY - 24.07 SUNDAY THE 35TH EVENINGS IN GRIČ A usual, this year’s edition of this prominent classical music festival will once again host some of the best and most renowned Croatian and international musicians, soloists and chamber ensembles, do stay tuned for the latest in zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events SPORT EVENTS 12.07 TUESDAY - 25.07 MONDAY EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY GAMES ZAGREB RIJEKA 2016 Welcome to the largest European multisport event, with 5000 participants from 200 universities located across 45 countries expected to compete. The event will take place in the Croatian cities of Zagreb and Rijeka. The programme features 21 sports with the slogan‘hearth believes, mind achieves’. The official mascot is a hamster called ‘Hrki’.Qwww.eug2016.com.

06.09 TUESDAY IAAF WORLD CHALLENGE - THE 66TH HANŽEKOVIĆ MEMORIAL Shown on Europsort, this event draws some of the world’s best athletes and is an official IAAF (World Athletics Federation) event. It’s named after the great hurdler we’ve nicknamed ‘Hanžek’. Though the list of athletes is still to be confirmed, past attendees include Blanka Vlašić, Marion Jones, Merlene Ottey, Marc McCoy and others.QH‑5, Mladost Sports Park, Jarunska 5, www.zagreb-meeting.com.

18.09 SUNDAY TERRY FOX RUN Join this world event if in Zagreb which pays respect to Terry Fox, who at 21 attempted to run across Canada to raise money for cancer research. His legacy lives on today with countries all over the world doing the very same thing. Whether running or supporting, come to Lake Jarun for an atmosphere of solidarity.QG‑4/5, Ja‑ run Lake, www.terryfox.org.

Maria A. Siza - Sketches, Oris House of Architecture Archives

the line-up.QC‑1, Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4; Plateau Gradec; St Katherine’s Church, Katarinin trg bb, www.kdz.hr.

30.06 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY AMADEO SCENE A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatre in Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue.QB‑1, Atrium of the Croa‑ tian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, www. scenaamadeo.hr. Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00. All performances start at 21:00. Tickets 70 - 150kn.

30.06 THURSDAY - 09.07 SATURDAY FANTASTIC ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.QTuškanac Summer Stage, 2016.fantastic-zagreb.com.

02.07 SATURDAY - 15.07 FRIDAY BUNDEK SUMMER STAGE What to do? Where to go? Have no fear, as for two weeks straight, the lovely Park Bundek’s Summer Stage will host a plethora of evening concerts and shows. Known Croatian artists and performers from various genres of music will entertain with the likes of Cubismo, Tamara Obrovac & Transhistria Ensemble, Ensemble Sudar, La Mascara, Mariachi Los Caballeros and more. Bring a blanket and kick back with music under the stars…QJ‑4, Bundek, www. zagreb.hr.

14.07 THURSDAY - 16.07 SATURDAY MEDVEDGRAD MUSICAL EVENINGS This is the chill pill for those wanting to escape the city, head into the hills, and be captured by the beauty of an ancient fortress which is the setting for music under the stars. Every night an acoustics program will be the prelude to a featured artist or band performing. Croatian musicians Sara Renar, Luce and Urban have already been booked, keep your ears out for further information!QMedvedgrad, www.centarcesarec.hr, www.pp-medvednica.hr. Con‑ certs start at 21:00. Tickets 60 - 110kn.

15.07 FRIDAY - 24.07 SUNDAY DVORIŠTA Take a peek behind the facade of the Palaces of the UpperTown and enter a world of Zagreb’s courtyards. Experience a part of the city that you have never experienced with citizens and government institutions proudly flaunting their ‘yards’ to the general public. Stories of legends will be retold, unravelling the past through these green oases.

QB/C‑1, Gornji grad (Upper Town), www.dvorista.in.

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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The Wild West.

A History of Wrocław’s Avant-Garde 16/6/ – 15/8/ 2016 Wrocław – a city in the Recovered Territories, which before the Second World War had nearly one million inhabitants, for decades could not be rebuilt after being destroyed in the Siege of Breslau. Out in these fascinating wild fields situated at the edge of a communist country where various cultures met, in a spirit of freedom and independence, artists have created their own original microcosm with bold experiments and international cooperation with partners from both sides of the Iron Curtain at its heart.

The exhibition presents works of art, films, documentary photographs, objects d’art and recordings — nearly 500 works of visual arts, architecture, urbanism, theatre, film, design, and everyday life of Wrocław since the 1960s until the present.

The exhibition organised by Wrocław Contemporary Museum as a part of the European Capital of Culture Wrocław 2016 programme.

Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art Av. Dubrovnik 17, 10010 Zagreb Opening hours: Tuesday–Sunday: 11 a.m.– 6 p.m.

Saturdays: 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Mondays and holidays: closed www.msu.hr

Main Partner

Financed by

Co-Organisers

Strategic Partner

Culture & Events

Cat Power

20.07 WEDNESDAY - 24.07 SUNDAY THE 50TH INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL On the occasion of its golden jubilee, the festival’s 50th edition will recall the history and role of folklore festivals in Croatia. The program will include performances by folklore groups representing the diversity of Croatian ethnographic heritage, along with representatives of national minorities, Croats from neighbouring countries, and the old Croatian Diaspora. Furthermore, a dozen ensembles will present the heritage of other nations and cultures.

QVarious locations across city, www.msf.hr.

09.09 FRIDAY - 14.09 WEDNESDAY JA BIH ... DAYS OF BIH CULTURE IN ZAGREB A bridge is building between Zagreb and Sarajevo with top notch films, exhibitions, rock and jazz music, theatre shows and cabaret performances by some of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most celebrated artists.QVarious locations across city, www.jabih.com.

IAAF Wolrd Challenge - Hanžeković Memorial Archives

Psihomodo Pop - Photo by B. Pesic Grodno - PIF Archives

13.09 TUESDAY - 18.09 SUNDAY PIF - 49TH INTERNATIONAL PUPPET THEATRE FESTIVAL Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb’s streets, squares and theatres. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!) Performers from all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s plays.

Qwww.pif.hr.

24.09 SATURDAY - 25.09 SUNDAY MEDIEVAL DAYS ON MOUNT MEDVEDNICA Is this for the faint hearted? The glory of chivalry returns as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous jousting tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking witches about!QMedvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, www.ppmedvednica.hr.

29.09 THURSDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY INTERNATIONAL EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND VIDEO FESTIVAL Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska 25, www.25fps.hr.

28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb Pulse

La Bodega Archives

We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

IVAN BRNČIĆ The head of the Facebook groups (Zakaj volim Zagreb - Why I love Zagreb) and (Purgerski rječnik - Purger Dictionary), as well as the editor of the blog zagrebancija.blog.hr and a photo journalist for zagrebinfo.hr ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Ivan: I have two favorite cafes - K&K Milčec and Pod starim krovovima (Under the old roofs). ​ IYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zagreb?

Z Ivan: I love going to Maksimir Park and finding a place to sit somewhere away from the main road, taking in the moments and enjoying my own time, my own thoughts. Bundek Park is also lovely!

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Ivan: In this day and age, the Internet definitely seems to be the easiest way to discover a city. It is the key source of gathering information about places to visit. Upon surfing the web, I find that the best way to discover a city is with a proper city tour guide. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb?

Ivan: I don’t buy very often so I don’t have a favorite place. I don’t know what to recommend because some people love magnets, some love ceramics, others love flags and so on.

What I can suggest for example are products by Lana Hudina and her brand (Duckass) which has unique drawings that promote Zagreb. There are souvenirs by Penkala and the city gingerbread heart souvenirs (licitarsko srce).

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?

Ivan: One real ajngemahtec (clear chicken soup with giblets, vegetables and dumplings), zagrebački odrezak (schnitzel), krpice sa zeljem (Croatian type pasta with cabbage), and purica s mlincima (turkey with flatbread).

ANETA DELIĆ Head of marketing in La Bodega ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Aneta: I start off my day with one espresso and a squeezed orange in La Bodega. When I need a rest from city crowds, a haven of peace is Palainovka. And when the night falls, the city centre is best to just sit and sip on a glass of wine or rakija.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zagreb?

Aneta: Running around Lake Jarun, and then relaxing with a cup of coffee or lunch at one of the most beautiful terraces found at the Lido Restaurant.

Summer 2016 29

Zagreb Pulse ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Aneta: To best experience the city, one needs to take a walk (to the Upper Town, the Lower Town), meet the locals and have a drink with them. ​ IYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do Z you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb?

Aneta: For good shopping it is enough to pass Ilica Street, and instead of the traditional souvenirs, I would recommend Croatian designers like “Lolina kućna manifaktura”, “Sexy Plexy” or the “Iggy Concept Store”.

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?

Aneta: Be sure to try the homemade štrukle at the Esplanade Hotel, cheese and cream from the Dolac market or gablec (brunch) at Igor’s in Pizza Duck Cut.

MAJA KUNDIH Bashota Jewellery ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Maja: Dežmanov prolaz has a few excellent cafes which are a bit removed from the city crowds. ​ IYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zagreb?

Z Maja: Saturday afternoons or Sundays are a perfect time to visit Zrinjevac. And for a more active break there’s Bundek, Jarun or Medvednica.

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan Dalmatian earrings with corals, Bashota Jewellery

​ IYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which Z activities do you recommend?

Maja: Driving around in antique cars and variously themed touristic tours in the Upper Town.

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb?

Maja: As one of the oldest jewellery stores in Zagreb from way back in 1925, we recognized the demand for souvenirs from Zagreb and the surrounding area. Inspired licitars and wooden toys, we’ve also designed and produced 50 unique motifs of handmade jewelry for which we were awarded 1st prize at the 13th Triennial of Zagorje souvenirs. The licitar heart, umbrellas from Šestina, and many other well-known motifs made of silver and gold and hand painted in colourful enamel. We are most pleased when our many clients tell us that our jewelry is a discreet and unique reminder of the city of Zagreb. You can come and verify for yourself if you visit one of our two stores in Zagreb, at 37 Ilica and 69 Ilica.

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?

Maja: I recommend you visit the restaurant called ‘Stari Fijaker’. They offer local dishes (štrukli, Zagorska soup, tripe) and always listen to their recommendations.

30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

CROATIAN BALON The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely outside seating, good cooking at sensible prices. Be sure to book for an evening table.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 09 18, info@restaurantbalon.com, www.restaurantbalon.com.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­W DIDOV SAN Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.

The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ (+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A­L­G­W

VINODOL Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.

QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr.

Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 180kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W

ISABELLA A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand).

The emphasis is definitely on meat – they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www. restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W STARI FIJAKER 900 A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@ starifijaker.hr, www.starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (55 - 130kn). P­A­G­X­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2016 31

Restaurants TASTY GETAWAYS BERTIJA POD LIPOM This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a protected monument that continues to serve up classic dishes from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the homemade strudels, sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer.

The owner Božo is the heart and soul of this place and makes sure that everything runs smoothly.QZarebačka 8, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91 60, matija_gubec@ net.hr. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon. N­B­W KARLO They offer traditional dishes full of mouth-watering flavour and seductive aromas using fresh seasonal ingredients, such as homegrown rabbit prepared with a delicious rose champagne or savoury chicken and vegetable skewers.

These tasty meals can be enjoyed with some homemade wine while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in this gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+385-1) 629 30 91, karlo.gastrovin@gmail.com. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (60 – 95kn).

KOD ŠPILJE The name of this restaurant means ‘Near the Cave’ as the owner was the person who found the geographical feature in the nearby hillside back in the 70s. So what’s on the menu? It’s typically continental Croatia; soup portions are huge, lots of meats and venison served with fruity sauces.

Strudels and kremšnita are local dessert with tradition.

QOtruševec 17/4, Bregana, tel. (+385-1) 337 58 88, www.gostionicakodspilje.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. (70 - 120kn). T­A­L­G­B MAJSECOV MLIN For an authentic zagorski ambience make sure to stop by Majsecov mlin. Several small wooden house are located around an old mill, in which you can still grind flour. Try some local dishes which are made using only ingredients from the Zagorje region. Mulberries, pumpkin oil and cream of pumpkin soup are available to try along with numerous other local delicacies.QObrtnička 47, Donja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 80 92, majsecov.mlin@gmail. com, www.majsecov-mlin.com. Open 09:00 – 23:00.

(65 – 90kn). A­G­B­X­W MALA HIŽA Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic small traditional wooden building was built in 1887, dismantled, relocated, reassembled, refurbished and opened in 2001.

What a journey! And when going to such extremes, the food just has to be good. There is a yearly all-round menu and an additional seasonal menu that combines tradition with innovation.QBalogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40) 34 11 01, malahiza@gmail.com, www.malahiza.hr. Open 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 24:00. (65 – 185kn). P­A­B­W 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

MEET THE MEAT BATAK GRILL A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick, but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+3851) 466 43 31, kvatric@batak-grill.hr, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W JARUNSKI DVORI A large black grill, lakeside seating and a few pivo from the ice chest combine to make for an atmosphere that says weekend whatever the day. The menu features all the beef and sausage you can stomach and is best described as decent. Your departing gait will closely resemble a waddle.QG‑5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 3, tel. (+385-1) 383 16 72/(+385-) 091 383 16 75, jarunskidvori@jarunskidvori.hr, www.jarunskidvori.hr. April 15 - October Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 75kn). N­B­X

SEAFOOD DUBRAVKIN PUT The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Du‑ bravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put. com, www.dubravkin-put.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 170kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W KORČULA Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, boban.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 165kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

INTERNATIONAL CANTINA A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread. It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and of course the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the kitchen while preparing everything, show-cooking style. The shelves are awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well be the only place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where you can get your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on the menu. There’s talk of new locations opening soon, so get in there before everyone else learns about it.QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, info@cantina.hr, www. cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 65kn). P­T­J­A­B­S zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

CARPACCIO Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, carpaccio@ristorantecarpaccio.hr, www. ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (55 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

ZINFANDEL’S Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, using local and international know-how to best create great dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, zinfandels@ esplanade.hr, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P­A­G­B­W

HEMINGWAY BAR & BISTROT Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu classic with some unheard of combos that will knock your socks off.QB‑3, Trg Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 88, info@hemingway.hr, www.bistro.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. ­T­J­A

CHIC & CHEERFUL

MANO Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill.

Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, July 25 - August 4 Open 18:00 - 23:00.

Closed August 5 - 15. August 16 - 28 Open 18:00 - 23:00. (80 150kn). P­A­G­B­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

BISTRO ROUGEMARIN Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended.QK‑4, Frana Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788 87 76, info@rougemarin.hr, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn). A­6­G­B­W BISTRO ŠALŠA Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing.

Summer 2016 33

Restaurants The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3, Kostelska 11, tel. (+385-) 095 199 54 59, bistro.salsa.tresnjevka@gmail.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 40kn). P­N­G­B­ S­W MALI BAR Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tvfamous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14, malibar.zagreb@gmail.com. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, Closed August 5 - 22. (50 - 110kn). P­A­G­B­W PAPA’S This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check...

The food is priced well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, info@papas. hr, www.papas.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (24 - 38kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

ETHNIC ASIA Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, rezervacije@asia.hr, www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00.

(29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W ASIA T HOUSE Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent months and years, and all of it very much welcomed indeed. Here, just around the corner from the main square, you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break from shopping, it’s a place to shop, and to eat. The market is expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the burgeoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a menu packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality.QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, asiathouse@gmail. com, www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

Summer Menu - Le Bistro Esplanade Archives Spring rolls with crispy vegetables, shrimps, avocado cream and walnut oil

34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ROYAL INDIA Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@ gmail.com, www.royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 13:00 23:00. (50 - 90kn). P­J­A­G­W TIME RESTAURANT & BAR Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, something not so common in Zagreb even a few years ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn) . P­T­J­A­G­B­K­X

LUNCHES BISTRO JADRANKA Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday. Has an active facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn).

P­i­A­G­B­S POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from Dolac), also Pod Zidom has a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu...QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 098 66 96 90, info@podzidom.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E­B

PIZZA FRANKY’S Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something you’ll see in any pizzeria.

QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, mguberina2@ gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­A­U­ L­V­G­B­X­S­W Summer 2016 35

Restaurants BREAKFAST BISTRO FOTIĆ Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, kontakt@bistrofotic.com, www. bistrofotic.com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 25kn). i­J BISTROTEKA Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, bistroteka@bistroteka. hr, www.bistroteka.hr. Breakfast is served: Mon Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. (17 42kn). i­J JOHANN FRANCK Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, johann.franck@johannfranck.hr, www. franck.eu/johann-franck/. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. (8 - 65kn). J KAVA TAVA How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon’n’eggs, sausages’n’eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britan‑ ski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, info@tomtom.hr, www. kavatava.com. Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 40kn). J­N­B­W LOUIE CAFE & KITCHEN English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms), a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 59. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Breakfast is served: Tue - Sun 09:00 - 11:30. (18 - 58kn). A­6­W MUNDOAKA STREET FOOD - FOOD WITH HEART AND SOUL Poached eggs with salmon, brioche, toast, croissants, and muffin.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@mundoakastreetfood.com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (35 - 45kn).

KOD ŽACA If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www. pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn). P­T­ 6­V­N­G­S­W O’HARA O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry.

That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. (38 - 86kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S ZERO ZERO Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…

The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is eapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the écor and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00, sanmarco.zagreb@gmail.com. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­J­ A­U­G­B­X­W

VEGE RESTAURANTS NISHTA It’s far from ništa (nothing) that you’ll get here, should you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer.

Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards.QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+3851) 889 74 44/(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@ nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­J­ A­6­G­W ZRNO BIO BISTRO 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.

QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@ bio-zrno.hr, www.zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30.

Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P­A­6­G­B­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

The Little Market from the Attic Archives

LET’S DO LUNCH!

By Nataly Anderson Marinović Lunch means so many different things to different people.

The random fact of where we grew up in means it might mean completely different things to you and me.

I grew up in the UK. During the working week, for me lunch meant grabbing a bacon butty in the sandwich bar downstairs. “Luxury!” my father would have said if he had known of my profligate ways. For him lunch was a round of sandwiches prepared the night before and wrapped in greaseproof paper, on one famous occasion only to be carefully removed from his briefcase, unwrapped and devoured by his colleague’s guide dog.

My father was a mid-ranking civil servant. How different would life have been had he been a Sir Humphrey of Yes Minister fame? Three relaxed courses in an oak-panelled club room, with a bottle of fine claret, possibly a cigar and a cognac at the end? I’m working in the civil service myself now and see that pretty senior folk still bring their lunch from home, an endearingly modest touch. Lunch these days is rarely liquid. Things are not what they once were.

My husband, a Croatian civil servant funnily enough, was horrified when on an exchange visit to the Netherlands he was offered smoked salmon sandwiches, an apple and a glass of milk for lunch. He declined the latter, claiming he would get diarrhoea. He is more used to devouring half a pig on his midday break.

In Zagreb the working day begins earlier than in London, facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

closer to 08:00 than 09:00. So by 11:00 in the morning many tummies start torumble. Which means… it’s time for gablec!

Gablec is one of the great untranslateables: it’s not breakfast, it’s not lunch… it doesn’t look like brunch either. The word stems from the German Gabelfrühstück - breakfast you eat with a fork. Gablec enjoyed its golden age in the days when the workforce showed up around 06:00. By the time your average Brit was still stumbling bleary-eyed towards the office your worker round these parts was in need of serious fortification. Hence mid-morning portions of hearty home-made favourites such as grah (bean stew), goulash, špekfileki (tripe stew with bacon) or faširanci (vegetable hotpot with meat rissoles).

The small Zagorje town where I spent several years still works to the same timetable as 50 years ago. The town centre takes on an aroma around 10:00 heralding the arrival of gablec. The aroma is particularly tempting on Fridays when the pubs prepare calamari and other fish dishes. A delightful cameo straight from a Miloš Forman film is played by the portly mayor trawling the cafés at 07:00 for shots of rakija. “Bit of a sore tummy, you know…”

So, if you have your gablec at 11:00, wherefore lunch?

Well, if your working day is 08:00 til 04:00 in a city the size of Zagreb you can still be at home in time for what could be loosely termed “lunch”. Meaning: a plate of soup (to be consumed on a daily basis otherwise you are clearly dicing with death), meat, potatoes, veg… possibly cake. Croatian matriarchs still have making cakes near the top of their job description.

Summer 2016 37

Local Flavour Dinner is the meal that doesn’t quite figure here. If you’ve had a light breakfast, your mid-morning gablec and an afternoon lunch, ideally followed by a nap, all you really need in the evening is a few coffees, several rounds of alcoholic drinks and a light bite such as a plate of fried eggs, a mound of bacon and dried sausages or possibly some wheat or corn grits. And cake.

Things are changing today. With the changes that globalisation brings people are switching to light snacks for lunch and main meals in the evening. Old folk across the country recoil with horror, since for them breaking the essential rhythms of life causes obesity, diarrhoea, alcoholism and death, definitely death.

They might be right. There is something to be said for a bit of orderliness rather than subjecting your poor digestion to all sorts of horrors, as I tend to do. (Fancy scrambled quails’ egg with chilli sauce, black coffee and chain-smoked cigarettes for breakfast, with salt’n’vinegar crisps and beer for dinner?)

But whatever the changes, everyone still has a special place in their heart for the traditional gablec.

Eat. Nap. Drink. Eat. Sleep. Sounds rather pleasant, doesn’t it?

HIT THE MARKET If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.

38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from.

Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.

So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 26.08 FRIDAY - 28.08 SUNDAY WHAT OUR FOREFATHERS USED TO EAT Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our forefathers used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb.

A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music.QVrbovec, www.tz-vrbovec.hr.

02.09 FRIDAY - 03.09 SATURDAY THE 9TH ZEGEVEGE FESTIVAL OF SUSTAINABLE LIVING Veganmania hits the capital again with a record number of over 100 exhibitors presenting their healthy foods and zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour products which are not tested on animals, and are ecological and sustainable. Lots of stalls, lots of little family businesses, lots of tradition… An entertainment program will also add value to the 2 day event. Be a part of the 40,000 expected visitors!QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www. zegevege.com.

03.09 SATURDAY SOMETHING FISHY! A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test!QRakitje Lake, Sveta Nedelja, www. svetanedelja.hr.

08.09 THURSDAY - 11.09 SUNDAY JASKA WINE CELEBRATION To the southwest of Zagreb, the pleasant town of Jastrebarsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly picturesque wine-producing region. Every September, the locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great opportunity to try some of the excellent local wines, culinary specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart from that, there’s a full programme of entertainment laid on - it’s a truly jolly occasion.QJastrebarsko, www.tzgj. hr.

17.09 SATURDAY - 18.09 SUNDAY A MILLENNIUM OF COOKERY The Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park is a stunning area of serrated woody hills to the west of Zagreb. Human habitation here stretches back to the Celts.

The workshop “Tisućljeća kulinarstva” (“A Millennium of Cookery”) explores a thousand years of cookery, featuring highly original recipes and healthy ingredients. The day kicks off at 10:00 with a tour of the park’s archaeological trail, followed by the workshop and consumption of the resulting goodies.QThe Žumberak and Samobor Highlands Nature Park, www.park-zumberak.hr. 40kn per person to join in.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Little Market from the Attic Archives

WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@ pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr.

twitter.com/ inyourpocket Photo by Višnja Arambašić

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2016 39

Coffee & Cakes SWEET TREATS MAK NA KONAC The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, petra@maknakonac.com, www. maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A ORIJENT There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.

QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ ymail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. P­N­G­W THE COOKIE FACTORY Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­A­G­B­W TORTE I TO Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!

QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W VIS À VIS Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made gluten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used including stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cranberries, sweet potatoes, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more. Digest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, revolution teas, or healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat and remember, ‘health is wealth’.QB‑2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 15 51, vincek@vincek.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. P­J­N­B­W 40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

You may not realise, but Zagreb is a coffee crazy city with more cafes than car parks in some streets. Croatians devour their morning routine coffee and it doesn’t stop there, they’ll find any reason to mingle and coffee is always the word that ‘seals the deal’. So why not join them by escaping from the heat and choosing a beautiful terrace in one of Zagreb’s many cafes.

A MOST UNUSUAL GARDEN Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00 24:00. P­G­B­X­W BLOK BAR A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and smoothies that complement the select coffee offerings. They offer a large selection of Croatian wines. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE‑2, Tomašićeva 13. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

P­6­N­G­B­X­W BOOKSA Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis. A farreaching vision indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, booksa@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 6­N­G­B­W DEŽMAN BAR Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pastries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens, and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, info@dezman.hr, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 01:00. Closed Sun. P­i­T­J­B­X­W DIVAS Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

P­N­G­B­X­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes

ELI’S Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www. eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­J­N­G­W KINO EUROPA Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.

QB‑2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@ kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. Open 08:30 24:00. P­J ­B ­W LAV GALLERY & CAFFÈ Between St. Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate, this tucked-away café has a great view that is too often overlooked. The delicious teas, either in a stately service or refreshingly iced, make it a perfect spot in any weather. Lav’s antique décor and local artists’ gallery adds to the dignified elegance of any visit to Upper Town.QC‑1, Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 21 08/(+385-) 091 492 21 08, caffe. galerija.lav@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. J­B

and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 57, palainovka@net.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­B­X­W U DVORIŠTU Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. P­6­N­ G­B­X­W VELVET This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.

Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.

QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@ velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr/en/caffe.html. Open 08:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. P­J­A­ 6­G­B­W Photo by Višnja Arambašić

PALAINOVKA Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2016 41

Nightlife Summer is well and truly upon us and the city’s nightlife scene drifts to more of an outdoor atmosphere with streets, squares and open bars popular destinations. Hot summer nights are filled with concerts and festivals with the largest buzz resonating around the city centre; Ban Jelačić Square, the European Square, streets such as Bogovićeva, Preradovićeva, Varšavska, and Tkalčićeva, and the Dežman passage are all zany where it’s first in best dressed in terms of getting a terrace seat. Bars and lounges are more popular than ever with a chilled atmosphere best for a hot night.

In terms of nightlife, the majority of clubs are closed as the Adriatic Coast is the hot spot; nevertheless, we have selected some of the best places to experience during the summer in Zagreb.

MOČVARA This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski na‑ sip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, mochvara@urk.hr, www. mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Face‑ book page. P­T­6­U­L­E­N­G­B­X­W

ALTERNATIVE

SPUNK Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights.

With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become.QI‑3, Hrvatske bratske za‑ jednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, spunk.zagreb@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W

AKC MEDIKA Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community.

A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, medikainfo@gmail.com, www. attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request.

J­6­N­B­X­W

BARS BOOZE&BLUES A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze & Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, info@booze-and-blues.com, www.booze-andblues.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W CORNER BAR Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00 where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa Forest Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations.

QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, b.luksa@corner-bar.hr.

Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 11:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

LA BODEGA ZAGREB Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wines. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds one of the most popular street, Bogovićeva.QC‑2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 345 34 45, rezervacije@ labodega.hr, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

P­i­T­J­A­E­B­X­W MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. P­T­A­ 6­E­B­X­W PIF Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B SWANKY MONKEY GARDEN You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and documentation dating back to the building’s previous life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard. Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, DJs, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups for club nights and festivals; it’s never a dull moment.QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, tina@swanky-hostel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P­A­G­B­X­W TESLA POWER HOUSE Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock…

Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar. Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg. QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 098 955 81 94, medo@ tesla.bar. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

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Nightlife THE PLACE Make a night of it at ‘The Place Bar’ which offers more than 35 world brands of bourbon and whiskey, over 10 brands of cognac, 12 brands of gin and 60 types of selected wines. The mind boggling choices are matched by its modern interior with a glowing effect. Judging by the name, this is the place to be when it comes to having a drink or more. QC‑2, Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 65 57, ivan.bosnic@gmail.com, www.theplacebar.eu. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, info@vintageindustrialbar.com, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. P­T­6­E­B­X­W VINYL A wine and whiskey bar, Vinyl is still finding its feet but has great potential. Beautifully decorated, with as much vinyl adorning the walls as you might expect from the name, it has the sense of those classic beatnik venues of the 1950s.

Food is advertised and there’s live music several nights a week.QC‑2, Bogovićeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-1) 238 54 21, vinylzagreb@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­B­X­W

CLUBS JOHANN FRANCK If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you Amnesia at Johann Franck

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily specials posted on site and on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, johann.franck@johannfranck.hr, www.johannfranck. hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00. P­J­A­G­B­X PEPER A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new location. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco, pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00 Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend. We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 393 99 38, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www. pepermint-zagreb.com. Open Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. P­J­A­G­X­W

JAZZ BACCHUS JAZZ BAR Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, ejudnamo@yahoo.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. T­J­6­N­B­X­W

PUBS BIKERS BEER FACTORY Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, bikers.beer. factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

P­T­6­E­N­B­X­W SHERIDAN’S PUB Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ESSENTIAL ZAGREB BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE (TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO (MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.

QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo is open 09:00 - 20:00 (until September 4), 09:00 - 19:00 (September 5 - 25), 09:00 - 18:00 (September 26 - Oc‑ tober), ticket office 09:00 - 18:30 (until September 4), 09:00 - 18:00 (September 5 - 25), 09:00 - 17:00 (Septem‑ ber 26 - October). Admission 15 - 20kn.

MIROGOJ CEMETERY Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.

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ST MARK’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building.

Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita bb.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY (KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding.

Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

TKALČIĆEVA (TKALČIĆEVA STREET) You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing TOP 5 SECRET THINGS TO SEE IN ZAGREB A PORTRAIT OF THE DAUGHTER OF SAMUEL BERGER Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters.

GIRL WITH A BIRD Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits.

LIBER LINTEUS ZAGREBIENSIS A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased

by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.

Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.

STJEPAN ERDÖDY JUMP Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.

THE HOLY TRINITY This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery.

It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM (MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 20 - 30kn. U CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr.

Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑ ets 15 - 30kn. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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Sightseeing

MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media.

From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/ (+385-1) 604 10 55, info@moderna-galerija.hr, www. moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.

QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@ brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins.

An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croatian/English.

Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, info@muzejiluzija.hr, www. muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnickimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

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Sightseeing

THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.

QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

GALLERIES

THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.

QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U

ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps

LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART (KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA) Known as the House For People And Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhi-

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Sightseeing bitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 25kn. U ORIS HOUSE OF ARCHITECTURE The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts conferences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the arts. There’s a multimedia hall, library, and even a restaurant with chairs donated by architects from around the world.QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377 81 77, oris@oris.hr, www.oris.hr.

LANDMARKS THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (DRŽAVNI ARHIV) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb.

This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00.

20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, hda@arhiv.hr, www. arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON (KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. TOMISLAV GOTOVAC FOOTPRINTS Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?

Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you try!QC‑2, Ilica 8. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Sightseeing ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol.

Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

HORRIBLE HISTORIES

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

THE ALTAR OF ST ROCCO Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of something until we learn about the efforts gone into its creation. The altar of St. Rocco which is now placed in the Chapel of St. Rocco and located in the park overlooking the British Square, has survived its own Calvary. It was originally built in 1755 by city guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it carried the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back then were categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer thought that many altars, though beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a complete revamp; hence the altar was subsequently given a new home, new look and new name. The end of the 19th century saw the altar themed with a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a piece of bread in its mouth.

Two centuries later, a fire in the 1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after extensive restoration; it was possible to once again see the altar in its original design.

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CRNA KRALJICA (THE BLACK QUEEN) There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence.

And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on.

GRIČKA VJEŠTICA (THE WITCH FROM GRIČ) Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”.

Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch.

The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her.

The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males.

In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom.

So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witchhunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer).

Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society.

Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she

FUNICULAR Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.

The city funicular is closed until July 11.

spoke strongly against discrimination. A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today.

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s Upper Town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica!

KAMENI SVATOVI (STONE WEDDING) Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia.

According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja, turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man.

The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today.

This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself.

KRVAVI MOST (BLOODY BRIDGE) In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them.

The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak.

Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-sounding name.

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Shopping SHOPPING MALLS A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square.

The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava.

What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

ANTIQUES APARTMAN Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A GALERIJA KERUBIN Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

A GOOD OLD VINYL DANCING BEAR CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.

QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja. zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A DIRTY OLD SHOP The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, info@ dirtyoldempire.com, www.dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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CROATIAN DESIGN CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts and original souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia.

Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, croatiandesignsuperstore@ gmail.com, www.croatiandesignsuperstore.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping CLOTHES FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs. Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@ gmail.com, www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A MARA ETNO BUTIK A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+3851) 480 65 11, etnomara@gmail.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

JEWELRY

Croata Archives

BASHOTA Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from modern and original designs to jewellery which has been nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 69 , tel. (+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, dzan.bashota@zlatarnicabashota.hr, www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:00 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

LOVE_ANA A recently established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

JOZEF GJONI They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A

TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@ takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search.

Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10, lapidarium@net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. J­A

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MEDAKOVIĆ Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, rmedakovic@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping SHOES & ACCESORIES A SHOO A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.

Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.QD‑2, Martićeva 19, ashoo@ashoo.net, www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N BOROVO Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www.borovo. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A CAHUN Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 75, www.cahun.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A CEROVEČKI Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

DELICATESSEN BONKULOVIĆ DELICACIES Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic.com, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A ČAJOTEKA All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im‑ portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka. info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A CROP STORE Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 28, info@crop.com.hr, www.crop.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat).

It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A GAVRILOVIĆ A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 56 03, www.gavrilovic. hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J­A KREDENCA GIFT SHOP Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products manufactured from all four corners of the country. This cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385) 091 278 20 40/(+385-) 091 544 72 94, info@kredenca. com, www.kredenca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

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Shopping

NATURA CROATICA A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. A PINKLEC DELICIJA Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palattepleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

QUIRKY STORES BLOSSOM & BLOOM Inspired by an incompatible love for flowers, this is one florist gallery that tailors entire bouquets and gift packages according to your needs. They merge carefully picked and only the finest roses with elegant design creations and handmade boxes. From chocolates to champagne and macaroons, surprise a loved one with a memorable gift from Blossom. They deliver too!QB‑2, Gundulićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, shop@blossom-bloom.hr, www. blossom-bloom.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. J HYSTERIA MAKS studio has for years been the place where artists and designers could come together to share their creations and creative solutions.

After collaborating together for so long, MAKS studio designer Saša Maksimiljanović, decided that the next logical step would be to open a store where all their brands could come together in one place. The location now has an entire range of different brands, including MAKS studio, Naša posla, Gooma brand, bi.bi jewelery/watches, Gorana Gulišija, Dinići Đenka Ivanišević, Cabinet.K, Vrecha & Co., and collections from Habiter Chic.QC‑2, Teslina 9 (In the yard), hysteria@email.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

JASMINA I LUTKICE A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

KLOTO Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@ gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 22:00. Closed Sun. A ROBA STORE Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, store@roba.com.hr. Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A VEŠMAŠINA Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top of Opatovina.

Caters to hipster kids, those needing classic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, accessories galore! If you’re having Summer 2016 59

Shopping difficulty picking up some unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC‑1, Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, info@vesmasina.com, www.vesmasina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

SPECIALTY STORE HAVANA CIGAR SHOP Cigars, from Cuba, Honduras and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QB‑2, Frankopanska 22, tel. (+385-1) 539 04 67, zagreb@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

QA‑2, Britanski trg.

HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take

the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

ULIČNI ORMAR The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6

AFFORDABLE ART Great and affordable artwork with prices ranging from 20 to 150 euros.

BOWLS AND PLATES BY LIDIA BOŠEVSKI If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia Boševski at Vlaška 81a.

After completing a degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and clothing design, as well as product design followed by ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.

JEWELLERY BY DIANA SOKOLIĆ Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić received the silver award for fashion design (FRED cufflinks - bracelets) at the International Design Competition in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was presented by British Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. This year, and at the same contest, she received the bronze award for her fashion design (Lacey bracelets) made with lace, and was once again famed by British Vogue. This jewellery can be purchased at the Contemporary Art Museum (Avenija Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts and Crafts Museum (Trg maršala Tita 10) and via www.dianas.it MONOGRAPH OF MIROSLAV ŠUTEJ - MOBILE SERIGRAPHS - AUTHORS: SLAVICA MARKOVIĆ AND ZVONKO MAKOVIĆ Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of the late 20th century, and the name of a prominent international graphic artist. Find his monograph at the Cabinet of Graphics HAZU, Andrije Hebranga 1.

NECKLACES BY NENAD ROBAN Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form follows the artist - A project conceived as a kind of ‘hommage’ or trib ute to certain individuals in the field of design, architecture and fine art. You can purchase their works at the Croatian Design Superstore, Martićeva 4.

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Shopping |croatian

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

REPLICAS OF CERAMIC PLATES BY EDO MURTIĆ Edo Murtić was known for his versatility and creative development of expression in a variety of artistic techniques. In particular, he nurtured a passion for ceramics. Replica ceramic plates can be found at the Museum of Arts and Crafts Shop, Trg maršala Tita 10.

SAŠA ŠEKORANJA BADGES The artist has made a set of artistic badges with motifs of stylised flowers which are taken from his very own paintings, then photographed and further customised in the shape of a badge. These can be found in the flower Gallery Saša Šekoranja, Dežmanov prolaz 1.

5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.

QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

HNK ART SHOP Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk. hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A MSU SHOP A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. MUO SHOP Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A

www.inyourpocket.com instagram.com/ croatiaiyp Summer 2016 61

CITY CENTRE SHOPPING 1 2 4

3

Blossom & Bloom QB-2, Gundulićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, shop@blossom-bloom.hr, www.blossom-bloom.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

1

Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.

3

VINTAGE

COMICS

StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

2

BOUQUET

GIFTS

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

4

Hotels Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels.

Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 STARS ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+3851) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr.

208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presidential Suite €1900). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­L­E­G­ B­K­D­W hhhhh SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotelsheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). P­J­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­W hhhhh THE WESTIN ZAGREB QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www. hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­ B­K­D­X­C­W hhhhh

4 STARS ARCOTEL ALLEGRA QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels. com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). P­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­L­E­G­B­K­D­ S­W hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr.

100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Su‑ perior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­U­L­G­ K­W hhhh facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

PALACE QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace. hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 - 185).

P­­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­W hhhh

3 STARS CENTRAL QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 01 03, infor@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles €75 - 95, 6 triples €93 - 107). P­­O­H­A­R­6­L­W hhh JADRAN QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb. com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P­J­A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh JÄGERHORN QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn. hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, 2 apartments €159). P­­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

AROUND THE AIRPORT ARISTOS QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150, 134 doubles €84 - 160, 7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­S­W hhhh BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella. hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141).

P­A­U­L­G­W hhh

HOSTEL ARENA QH‑5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 642 19 50, fax (+385-1) 642 96 46, hostel.arena@zgh.hr, www. nazor.hr/hostel-arena-zagreb. 261 dorm beds, 140 - 190kn per person. P­H­A­L­G­B­K­X­W

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2016 63

Street register Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2

Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1

Scool Fest Archives Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1

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Gupčeva zvijezda

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BRITANSKI TRG

6 11 2 ČRNOMEREC

15 DOLJE

Jandrićeva Radićevo šetalište

JANDRIĆEVA

MANDALIČINA

PODRUŽNICA ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ

KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a Informacije: 060 100 001* Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060 www.zet.hr *poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min, iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).

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Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

Služba komunikacija i marketinga

Lj

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4

8

TRAM st. u oba smjera TRAM stop - both directions TRAM st. u jednom smjeru TRAM stop - one direction Autobusni terminali BUS terminal Naziv ulice Street name

ZAPRUĐE 14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM. ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.

29.10.2014.

Summer 2016 65

the best place for shopping, food and fun located at the gateway to Zagreb: A2, A3, A1

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr