Zagreb In Your Pocket No92

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Zagreb Summer 2018

A Painter of Paintings of Paintings!

Meet Stjepan Šandrk

The Sixties In Zagreb An Overview of the Decade

N°92 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

4 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Stjepan Šandrk

Nightlife 29 Are you ready to party?

6

Sightseeing

32

Zagreb’s Art Scene

Discover what we‘ve uncovered

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 8

Shopping 44

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

What’s On

10

A pick ‘n’ list to brighten your stay

The Sixties in Zagreb

18

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

57

Zagreb Basics

62

Keep’n it real 21

Maps

27

Street Register City Centre Map City Map

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Coffee & Cakes

Arrival & Getting Around SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

An overview of the decade

Restaurants

Priceless places and buys

63 64-65 66

Truffle ice cream, truffles from liver cracks, cocoa crumble, Zinfandel’s, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives Beetroot? Spinach? It’s amazing what kind of ice-cream flavours you can get nowadays. And this is especially true in Zagreb, a city that has always had a pronounced taste for ice cream, see page 28.

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Summer 2018 5

Foreword Whether you’re here for a day or two or more, you’ll have plenty of time to explore! Our IYP guide is the perfect read and review booklet to help you get around and answer some of those queries any tourist may have. To cut it short, our city is vibrant all year round and even though temperatures can get very hot, it’s in the evenings when the city truly becomes alive. Cafes, restaurants and squares are jam packed as people tend to cool off. Days are best spent in city museums and galleries, a visit to the Upper Town and some of the major city landmarks. Look for an abundant amount of concerts, festivals and exhibitions over these 3 months with all info in our guide. The World Cup is on so Croatia’s games will be broadcast live around town so join in on the fun with fans swamping to the city in their red and white checkers. Come and support your team with a fun filled atmosphere to be had! All in all, we wish you a pleasant and wonderful stay in our lovely city!

Cover story “Excursion” by Stjepan Šandrk was created for the Croatian arts and culture website vizkultura. hr. They have a project called plakatiranje (“bill-posting”) in which they invite artists to design a poster, which is placed in one of the display windows on the side of Kino Europa.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea Pisac, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Stjepan Šandrk, “Excursion“ Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Stjepan Ĺ andrk, Spektakl (MinJun), 2017, oil on canvas

Stjepan Ĺ andrk one of the leading exponents of realist painting in Croatia

Stjepan Šandrk Gracing the front cover of this edition of Zagreb In Your Pocket is the artist Stjepan Šandrk’s work Excursion, in which a group of tourists are pictured standing in Prolaz sestara Baković, the pedestrian passage that runs behind Zagreb’s Kino Europa. Born in Osijek in 1984 and a graduate of Zagreb’s Fine Arts Academy, Šandrk is one of the leading exponents of realist painting in Croatia - although his take on the genre is far more ambiguous and questioning than that of many of his peers. Šandrk’s paintings frequently use a hyperrealist technique to juxtapose groups of people against a background of someone else’s artwork.

His most famous works are Martina Looks at a Picture by Lovro Artuković (in which a girl looks at a large canvas by the well-known Croatian figurative painter and portraitist Artuković); and the Spectacle series, in which odd groups of people (from selfie-taking tourists to Ukrainian soldiers) are pictured standing in front of well-known paintings. All are so perfectly rendered that they almost look like photographs rather than paintings, and as well as being fun and engaging pieces of visual art, are also slightly troubling, as if there is a dark joke lurking at the back of the artist’s mind.

In Your Pocket caught up with Stjepan Šandrk to try and find out more about his method.

ZIYP: There’s something decidedly ironic going on in your paintings of people looking at paintings. Are you making fun of the art world?

Stjepan: Right after my diploma I switched from abstract art to photorealism - not just to demonstrate technical ability but also to find new content. At first I was painting scenes from my life; a kind of visual diary. There was nothing so unusual about it. So I decided on a new direction, and these paintings about the way that paintings are shown was the result. When I started painting images like this I described my paintings as “parasitical”, the works of a young unknown painter feeding on those who were already established. But it wasn’t my theme to focus on them specifically but to look more generally at the world of the museum. The way we perceive culture and museums has changed a lot since I was a kid. I remember them as places of quiet study, they were almost sacred. Now museums are trying so much to involve their visitors and allow them to interact. There are concerts on the roof; museum spaces are rented out to functions and congresses. They are now places of spectacle rather than places of art history. And the obligatory taking of the selfie has become part of the museum too.

ZIYP: How did our front-cover image come about?

Stjepan: Excursion is something I did for the Croatian arts-and-culture website vizkultura.hr. They have a project called “plakatiranje” (“bill-posting”) in which they invite artists to design a poster, facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

which is placed in one of the display windows round the side of the Kino Europa. So I submitted a regular painting of tourists standing in front of the very place where the posters are displayed.

ZIYP: What is your working method?

Stjepan: I begin by working from photographs, composing the picture in Photoshop from maybe 2 or 5 different photos, before committing it to canvas. Some of the photos I use are my own, others are appropriated from the internet.

From these different sources something unusual comes out at the other end. I fully intend to provoke some kind of emotional response from the viewer. It might be ironic, but it might also be disturbing.

ZIYP: Is Croatian art scene in good shape?

Stjepan: The scene is now a lot more open, contemporary and vibrant than it used to be. It’s still small, but it has an energy which I didn’t see 10 or 20 years ago. The main thing for young artists is that they are no longer constrained by borders, and that means there are more opportunities.

There are more foreign residences, and more chances to work with private galleries in other countries. What we lack in Croatia itself are private galleries that function well, and art fairs that take themselves seriously. Which is why it is important for every artist to take their work abroad and find a public there. Croatia itself has a small number of serious collectors and if you are a good young artists you will get to meet them all very quickly. Otherwise the art market in Croatia is virtually non-existent unless you are talking about the kind of art that ends up as interior decoration in middle class homes. And if an artist does too well in that kind of art market then he/she stops getting offered serious exhibitions!

By Jonathan Bousfield

Stjepan Šandrk, Očevid 2017, oil on canvas

Summer 2018 9

Croatian Cultural Dictionary Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages.

Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.

The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

Croatian business conversations This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoistwu weiprinciple (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literallymeans ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to,indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet.

A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to itany time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam. Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo. So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid 10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Swanky Monkey Garden Archives

job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

Croatian leisure talk Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’. Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual.

But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to https://travelhonestly. com/croatian-cafe-culture.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing. If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success. When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound farfetched, but pomalo is the Croatian time-travel machine.

Croatian weather talk Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified. Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude. And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain. If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu.

Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh. Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

Most important ‘empty’ talk We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions. But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners.

Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk.

So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

By Andrea Pisac Summer 2018 11

Sicilian Ghost Story, Julia Jedlikowska, Giulia Parlato, Europa Cinema Archives

What‘s On essential guide to the summer events in zagreb and surroundings which you mustn’t miss

What’s On Rock & Pop Concerts

Exhibitions

10.07 20:00 » The National

05.06 - 14.08 » Zones of Contact - Architecture of Graz and Zagreb

This is one American rock band that can safely call Zagreb as their second home; they’ve toured here on countless occasions and have formed an impeccable bond with their beloved ZG fans. This time they perform at Šalata as part of the SuperUho Festival. In 2017, their seventh album ‘Sleep Well Beast’ topped world charts and had won the Grammy Award for Best Alternative Music Album.QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, 220 - 250kn.

14.07 21:00 » Mayales – Summer at MSU To be a pop band and at the same time make room for experimentation isn’t simple, yet these guys handle it with ease. Mayales is a band that creates wonderful acid jazz/ funk music with pure originality, yet one can sense influences from Jamiroquai through to The Brand New Heavies.

Critics have been raving about their latest album branding it as ‘perfection, a wonderful pop album, a vintage sound of Mammas And Papas, Beach Boys, Sonny and Cher, the Monkeys, Simon and Garfunkel.Q85kn, www.msu.hr.

24.07 20:00 » Iron Maiden The almighty British Metal pioneers return to our capital for a blistering show once again. Maiden madness is buzzing already with fans from all over Europe coming to see these legends lead by frontman Bruce Dickinson with Steve Harris on bass guitar as they rip into tunes such as ‘Number of the beast’, ‘Aces High’, ‘Run to the hills’ and many more of their classics. QH-5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, 270 - 750kn.

14.09 20:00 » Massimo One of Croatia’s best male singers and crowd favourite, the legendary Massimo will perform at Šalata which will be a true musical spectacle under the open sky. This will be the highlight of Massimo’s summer tour. Dubbed as Croatia’s ‘David Bowie’ with his distinctive pop-rock vocals, Massimo is still a true music star in his own right who has been performing since the early 1980s and is still going strong.

QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, 100 - 170kn.

ZG Classic 2018 20.06 - 10.07 King Tomislav Square will turn into the perfect venue for this open air classical music festival with performances by leading Croatian and international orchestras, ensembles, conductors and soloists. Hundreds of artists will perform in the space of three weeks with the likes of the popular Opera ‘Under the Stars’, the musical ‘Jalta Jalta’ to the ballet ‘Madam Glembajevi’. Certain nights will have tambura, symphony and even jazz orchestras playing their tunes. Definite headliners include the maestro violinist Julian Rachlin who will be joined by the Zagreb Philharmonics; and another sensation is the tenor José Cura who will be holding a performance in honour of Nikola Tesla’s birthday. QC‑3/4, Trg kralja Tomislava, Trg kralja Tomislava bb. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

This collaboration between Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art and Kunsthaus Graz takes a look at the leading architects from both cities. It also includes work by contemporary Croatian artists Božena Končić -Badurina, Igor Eškinja, Bojan Gagić, Zlatan Vehabović, Neli Ružić and Selma Banich which examine the effects of social architecture on the lives of individual citizens.QJ‑4, Contempo‑ rary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

05.06 - 19.08 » Zagreb While It Wasn't - Before The Year 1094 In 1990, the project ‘Zagreb While It Wasn’t - Before 1094’ began and so far thirteen archaeological sites with paleontological material remains have been found and designated. Almost 30 years on, this exhibition will present all that has been done thus far and also take one step further by including urban city fabric into the seemingly static and default museum exhibition.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr.

03.05 - 18.11 » The Seljan Brothers through Rainforests and Desert The Seljan brothers, Mirko and Stevo were famous Croatian explorers who on January 23, 1899, set off for a ‘journey around the world on foot’ and never looked back. After residing in Ethiopia for some time they set off for South America where they explored the vast areas of Brazil, Paraguay and Peru, the countries in which they eventually met their tragic end. The exhibition will showcase the objects, letters, photographs, diaries and notebooks about their incredible journeys.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr.

07.06 - 02.09 » Pictures of the Adriatic Coast - Photographer Karl Kaser Viennese photographer Karl Kaser, who was a member of the Vienna’s artistic photographic movement, repeatedly visited the Croatian coast between 1897 and 1914. During his journeys he would take many artistic photographs of towns such as Opatija, Rijeka, Dubrovnik and Kotor, capturing the beauty of Croatia back then. The exhibition shows a small part of his rich legacy of 450 photographs.

His brilliant photos do not only have artistic but also documentary, cultural and historical value. QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

12.12.2017 - 30.09.2018 » Unreachable Heritage - Secrets of the Croatian History Museum's Depots 216 of the best pieces, based on their historical and cultural importance of the national identity in politics, education, science, culture, everyday life and the media will be put on display. The aim of this exhibition is to inform and encourage the public opinion on the importance of relocating this museum and the creation of the new permanent establishment.QB‑1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr.

Summer 2018 13

What’s On 12.04 - 29.07 » Catherine The Great - Empress Of All The Russians A grandiose co-production between Zagreb’s Klovićevi Dvori and St Petesburg’s Hermitage Museum, this is a broad-ranging and fascinating introduction to Catherine the Great and the splendour of the Russian imperial court.

It’s very much a portrait of the age: political events and changes in social life are covered in detail, while a wealth of paintings, sculpture and crockery illustrate the upsurge in arts and culture that took place during Catherine’s reign.

QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd. hr.

09.07 - 15.07 » José Cura - Life Seen Through The Lens Of The Famous Tenor As part of the 120th anniversary of the Art Pavilion, the celebrated and global superstar, Argentine tenor José Cura will host a concert at the King Tomislav Square. Since it is well known that the maestro Cura is also a great fan of art photography and is a photojournalist himself, he has been invited to hold a solo photo exhibition at the Pavilion which will be open for nine days. His photographs tell a story of the everyday life of an ‘ordinary man’, with the aim of capturing human emotions.QC‑3, Art Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnickipaviljon.hr.

20.07 - 02.09 » Zlatan Vehabović - Dark White Country Here is one of the best contemporary Croatian painters of the younger generation who participated in a onemonth expedition on a sailing boat in 2016, the route stretched across the endless unpaved region of the Polar Archipelago along the coast of the Svalbard Islands. The five-week intensive stay consisted of sailing, the exploration of uninhabited coastal areas of the vast archipelago, active mountain hiking, and seeing the abandoned resi-

dences and small towns of the region. The whole experience was documented through photography and will be presented at this remarkable exhibition consisting of his final selection of 19 photos under the working title ‘Dark White Country’. QC‑3, Art Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

30.08 - 19.11 » The Copper Age In Northern Croatia The exhibition presents findings from the Copper Age in northern Croatia around Lasinja, Baden, Kostolac and Vučedol, which can be roughly dated from 35000 BC until 2000 BC. It is a pre-historic period characterised by the processing and use of copper in the construction of weapons and jewellery. The most famous pottery vessel from that period is the ceramic Vučedol Dove, founded in 1938 and dated between 2800 and 2400 BC, which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the wartorn town of Vukovar. QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr.

Festivals 18.07 - 22.07 » The 52nd International Folklore Festival The International Folklore Festival has been held in Zagreb since 1966 with the aim of affirming the traditional culture and folklore of numerous local and international participants from all continents. Nowadays, it has become a part of the global movement led by UNESCO which aims to safeguard and promote the intangible cultural heritage.

This year’sedition will present the topic ‘Heritage and Migration’ across two main festival stages, one in the Upper Town and the other on Ban Jelačić Square. Join in on the accompanying events, concerts, exhibitions, and workshops.Qwww.msf.hr.

Sicilian Ghost Story, Gaetano Fernandez, Giulia Parlato, Europa Cinema Archives

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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What’s On

25.07 - 29.07 » Crossover

06.09 - 09.09 » 36 Mountains Festival Zagreb

Zagreb turns eclectic in which the merging of different musical genres and the performing of different musical styles is especially valued, praised and encouraged at Crossover. Besides its musical expression, the festival introduces the audience to new cultures and thus strengthens the socially positive component of coexistence. Free entry for all visitors!QD‑1, Ribnjak Park.

A total of 22 artists have been selected to present their illustrations at the Bačva Gallery in Zagreb. The competition received 130 entries and the jury has selected the following artists:Iris Bakker, Rina Barbarić, Nenad Cizl, Karla Čurčinski, Srđ Dragović, Andrej Drožđan, Klasja Habjan, Matea Jurčević, Sofija Kamasi, Dragan Kordić, Lea Levi, Agata Lučić, Apolonija Lučić, Laura Martinović, Ivan Mesaroš, Oleg Morović, Ivana Mrčela , Marina Milanović, Imelda Ramović, Anja Sušanj, Resli Tale and Ellis van der Does.Qwww.36mountains.com.

02.09 - 08.09 » Festival of World Literature The Festival of World Literature is certainly one of the year’s most important literary events taking place in Zagreb. In collaboration with internationally renowned literary festivals,Vilenica from Slovenia and Cúirt from Ireland, the Festival of World Literature is part of the "Sharing the Wor(l)d” project. You too can be part of that world if you find yourself at one of the festival’s programs: interviews, screenings, and panel discussions.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, www.literaturamundi.com.

04.09 - 20.09 » Organvida - International Festival of Photography The main goal of this festival has always been to discuss key global and social issues, and to encourage critical thinking and dialogue through photography. This year’s theme will be no different with a focus on female photographers and the feminist approach to contemporary art.

In addition to the exhibition- various conferences, workshops, lectures, performances, and movie screenings will also be held.Qwww.organvida.com. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

15.09 - 21.09 » PIF - 51st International Puppet Theatre Festival Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb's streets, squares and theatres. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!) Performers from all over the world will perform both adults' and children's plays.

Qwww.pif.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2018 15

What’s On Special Events 02.04 - 18.10 » The Changing of the Guard A Croatian regiment named 'The Royal Cravats' joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the 'Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection'. March from St Marks Square or Kaptol to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.Qwww. kravatpukovnija.com. 12:00 Every Saturday & Sunday.

02.06 - 14.07 » Summer at the MSU Sky high! Yep, the Museum’s rooftop turns into a mega stage with a great multimedia program, from live music, film screenings, literature panels and art, all in one. With amazing views, see some of Croatia’s top pop rock bands.

QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

30.05 - 02.09 » Strossmartre - Summer on Stross Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you'll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

who will surely provide an unforgettable experience to all visitors. The event is opened by the renowned Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir which will perform Carlo Orff’s master piece ‘Carmina Burana’, whilst the MozART Group from Poland echoes ‘Mozart is alive!’ in their eponymous music cabaret on July 1st. Other performances include Croatian singer Maja Posavec who honours the greatest hits by the legendary Leonard Cohen, the Italian Ensemble Nino Rota with film music, impressive percussionists Sudar Percussion Oxygene - with music by J.M. Jarre, violinist virtuoso Roby Lakatos, the HRT Jazz Orchestra will host the famous saxophonists of Victory Goines, Branford Marsalis, Rosario Giuliani, Peric Sambeat and Krzysztof Urbanski, under the supervision of maestro Andreas Marinello. On July 15,The Bromley Youth Chamber Orchestra will perform music by Händel, Mozart, Elgar, Piazzollo and in the end, famous female musicians Marija Pavlović, Monika Leskovar and Martina Filjak will close the event by performing works from Beethoven and Brahms. QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, 100kn, www.lisinski.hr.

01.07 - 28.07 » Amadeo Scene A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatre in Zagreb called the 'Amadeo Theatre' opened in 1797.

This year's festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue. QB‑1, The Croatian Natural His‑ tory Museum, Demetrova 1, www.scenaamadeo.hr.

21.04 - 30.09 » Zagreb Time Machine Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

Qwww.infozagreb.hr.

25.05 - 30.09 » Art Park During the summer months there will be workshops, yoga, drawing sessions, music extravaganzas, film screenings, music jams, panels to paint, and more. It’s located between the Strossmayer Promenade and Tomićeva Street.

Qwww.facebook.com/ArtParkZagreb

27.06 - 04.08 » EXIT Theatre Summer Nights Zagreb can get a little tad quieter at summer as many people are down the coast but according to the EXIT Theatre, ‘the show must go on’… And rightly so as this theatre company aim to provide both locals and visitors with top-quality professional performances throughout the summer.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg Republike Hrvatske 10, www.teatarexit.hr.

28.06 - 17.07 » The 37th Evenings in Grič The 37th edition of the festival brings as many as nine musical delicacies, hosted by a multitude of top artists 16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Massimo, Photo by Mario Krištofić

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

13.07 - 22.07 » The Courtyards Take a peek behind the facade of the Palaces of the Upper Town and enter a world of Zagreb's courtyards. Experience a part of the city that you have never experienced with citizens and government institutions proudly flaunting their ‘yards’ to the general public. Stories of legends will be retold, unravelling the past through these green oases.

QB/C‑1, Gornji grad, Upper Town, www.dvorista.in.

29.09 - 30.09 » Medieval Days on Mount Medvednica Is this for the faint hearted? The glory of chivalry returns as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous jousting tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking witches about!QMedvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, www.ppmedvednica.hr.

Film 09.06 - 01.09 » Tuškanac Summer Stage Fancy film? Fancy film outdoors? Then welcome to the most beautiful city-theater under the stars where one film is featured each night and includes both international and national films. Kicking off from June 09 th through to September, some of the very latest releases to classics will be screened. Films roll just after 21:30 and tickets can be facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

bought 90 minutes before screening. The event will accompany other film festivals whilst refreshments will be available from the Dogs & Movies Caffe. Check out the Pop Up Summer Garden too! QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau, Tuškanac 1, www.ljepotu.hr.

21.06 - 01.09 » Summer in Europa Cinema One of the city’s oldest and yet most beautiful cinemas is turning up the heat this summer with over 70 movie titles that have been screened over the last 12 months. Be sure to look out for all of the awarding winning films from top European film festivals. Wednesdays will include free screenings for young children animations which is preceded by ‘Subtitled Tuesdays’ for foreign audiences.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, www.kinoeuropa.hr.

28.06 - 08.07 » Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival Let's all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival.

It's an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.Q2018.fantasticzagreb.com.

19.09 - 23.09 » Zagreb Tourfilm Festival - International Tourism Film Festival What better place to host an International Tourism Film Festival than in one of the world most popular tourist destinations and tourist hot spots – the beautiful Country of Summer 2018 17

What’s On Croatia! This is your chance to get to see the best tour films in the world and network with lots of agencies and companies in the field. Free entry! Qwww.zagreb-tourfilm. com.

27.09 - 30.09 » International Experimental Film and Video Festival Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.Qwww.25fps.hr.

Sport 27.07 - 29.07 » IJF Judo Grand Prix Zagreb A major official International Judo Federation event which will attract around 90 competitors in the men’s and women’s categories from 4 continents and 22 nations! See some of the world’s best tactically outmanoeuvre and defeat their opponents in one of the highest regarded martial arts.Qwww.ijf.org.

25.08 » Grawe Night Marathon Growing year by year, a limit of 2000 competitors can join the night marathon at Park Bundek, one of the city’s nicest hot spots. Choose from one of 5 races all broken up into fractions of the original 42km Marathon. If you’re not up for the gruelling distance, you can enlist into the 1/10,1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 of a full marathon. Lanterns, nature strips, bridges and a buzzing atmosphere all in one!QJ‑4, Bundek Lake, Bundek Park, www.sljeme.run/grawe-nocni-maraton.

03.09 - 04.09 » IAAF World Challenge - The 68th Hanžeković Memorial Shown on Europsort, this event draws some of the world’s best athletes and is an official IAAF (World Athletics Federation) event. It’s named after the great hurdler we’ve nicknamed ‘Hanžek’. Though the list of athletes is still to be confirmed, past attendees include Blanka Vlašić, Marion Jones, Merlene Ottey, Marc McCoy and others.Qwww. zagreb-meeting.com.

14.09 - 15.09 » Medvednica Outdoor Festival From wherever you’re standing right now, you can pretty much look up and you’ll see a large green mountain in the distance; that is Mount Medvednica (a place where bears once used to roam). These days, it’s famous for its natural beauty as highlighted by this festival with famous trail and trek races. In addition, organisers offer various training in mountain cycling, free climbing, slack line and workshops for kids. Evenings will have concerts and after-party surprises, but we won't tell you everything! Q www.face‑ book.com/MedvednicaOutdoorFestival.

23.09 » Terry Fox Run Join this world event if in Zagreb which pays respect to Terry Fox, who at 21 attempted to run across Canada to raise money for cancer research. His legacy lives on today with countries all over the world doing the very same thing. Whether running or supporting, come to Lake Jarun for an atmosphere of solidarity.QG/H‑4/5, Jarun Lake, Aleja Matije Ljubeka, www.terryfox.org.

Food & Drink 14.06 - 15.07 » Foodballerka - Food & Football Festival Football madness (or some may use the word soccer) has officially begun! The World Cup is being held in Russia this summer and is going to be watched by billions of people across the globe and Croatian fans are of no exception.

Foodbalerka is a gastro, football and music event where you can watch matches on the most beautiful green stage.

This will be the only ‘open-air’football oasis in the city centre which will feature a lot of different events, such as tasting delicious snacks made by leading Croatian restaurants, refreshing drinks and live bands jamming.QC‑3, The Strossmayer square, Strossmayerov trg bb.

04.07 - 08.07 » Plac Mljac - Summer at the Trešnjevka Market Feel the true vibe and spirit of a traditional market reminiscing the good old days in its truest form. The open-air market festival is in many ways untouched and keeps to tradition whilst at the same time vindicates the many other attractions this large suburb holds thanks to its unique past, its people and customs.QH‑3, Farmer’s Market Trešnjevka, Ozaljska bb.

24.08 - 26.08 » What our forefathers used to eat

Plume, South America, The Seljan Brothers through Rainforests and Desert, Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb Archives

18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our forefathers used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music.Qwww.tz-vrbovec.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

30.08 - 09.09 » The World on a Plate

13.09 - 24.09 » Zagreb Burger Festival

The European Square will be the central backdrop for this 11 day around the world expedition. Enjoy special delicacies from exotic destinations including Mexico, Asia, Macedonia, Italy, Germany and other amazing nations.

Tickle your taste buds with the city’s top restaurants giving your senses a wild journey. Folklore, foreign dances and world music as well as other entertainment will be on hand!QC‑2, European Square.

A burger is a clear favourite too many people and in recent years has become part of the gourmet scene with world famous chefs also reaching for it. Nowadays, it has become a quality meal, an unavoidable part of street food with different variations and diverse creative variants that have overwhelmed the entire world. Make sure to pop into our burger realm - to try unusual yet creative burgers, to taste great drinks and to dance the night away during the evening concerts.QC‑3, The Strossmayer square, Stross‑ mayerov trg bb.

01.09 13:00 » The 3rd Beer Yard Festival Start September off in style by attending this 3 in 1 festival combining ‘craft beer, street food and music’. Croatia is taking over the Craft beer scene with more and more breweries popping up and over 20 national and foreign brewers will attend. Try beers never seen on our soil before, not to mention the Food Restaurants having their stands and music from all genres being played live. A beer fest in a beer garden!QI‑3, Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb.

02.09 » Something fishy!

A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test!QRakitje Lake, Sveta Nedelja, www. svetanedelja.hr. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

The Little Market from the Attic Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

For locations and dates check their website or Facebook page.Qwww.mali-plac.org. Every Wednesday.

What’s going on? facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Summer 2018 19

Vlado Duić, Plavi vjesnik cover photography, 1968, Yugopapir, Arts and Crafts Museum Archives

The Sixties in Zagreb An overview of the decade

The Sixties in Zagreb Even though a cluster of fiftieth anniversaries has served to remind us of how far away the Sixties actually are,they still exert a huge influence over the European imagination.

From indie bands to industrial designers, people still regard the decade as a source of creative inspiration. In many ways the Sixties represent the formative years of modern Europe: from music to TV shows, student revolt, fashion and sexual liberation, the main themes that we associate with the Sixties still inform the template we live by today.

Appropriate therefore that most anticipated exhibition of 2018 was ’60 in Croatia: myth & reality in Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts. Opened at the end of April, it immediately struck a chord with the local public, attracting almost 10,000 visitors in its first month. The main thread of the exhibition is to display the objects that made up daily life – everything from kitchen utensils and coffee sets to glossy magazines and mopeds. It also tracks the art, design, photography and architecture of the period to show not just how culture changed, but also how culture became a central pillar of an emerging lifestyle in which books, plays, records and films became both more plentiful and more accessible. It was during the Sixties that a combination of economic growth and cultural freedom produced a flowering artistic culture in Zagreb, and much of what we identify as typically Zagrebian today – animated films, sassy pop music, edgy theatre, quirky contemporary art, and an architectural taste for the brutal – all took shape in this turbulent decade.

Recounting history in terms of decades is never a neat and tidy affair, and the exhibition actually kicks off in 1958, when the 7th Congress of the Yugoslav League of Communists resolved to put more emphasis on consumer culture and leisure.Economic reforms in the years that followed stimulated production of cars, record players, TVs and home furnishings – and helped ensure that people had enough money to buy them. The sacking of Serbian hardliner Aleksandar Ranković in 1966, and fierce criticism of the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968, indeed made it look as if socialism Tito-style was moving in a decidedly liberal direction. Student demonstrations in 1968, critical of increased inequalities in a society that was nominally supposed to be egalitarian, served as a reminder that left-wing idealism was alive and kicking among the young.

For outsiders, Yugoslavia was increasingly seen as an avantgarde socialist country that didn’t fit in with people’s preconceptions of what communist Europe was supposed to look like. Of course locals knew that things were slightly different: the Yugoslav League of Communists had a monopoly on power, criticism of the official political line was met with harsh discipline, and national grievances were frequently kept locked in a dark cupboard. However the world of culture, especially high-brow drama, music and art, was increasingly free, and it seemed to foreign observers as if Yugoslavia was a country well worth learning from. Croatia, geographically and culturally very near to the West, was one of the republics that benefitted most from this new atmosphere of exchange. Croatia’s capital Zagreb suddenly found itself at the centre of things. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Influences from London, Paris, Rome, Moscow, Svijet magazine, 1969, Arts and Crafts Museum Archivesand Crafts Museum Archives

A prime example was the Music Biennale, founded by Milko Kelemen in 1961 to showcase contemporary classical music. Kelemen made full use of Yugoslavia’s non-aligned position by telling the Soviets that they needed to send their best musicians to Zagreb in order to counter growing western influence; and then telling the USA that they should fund the participation of American musicians in order to counter the soft-diplomacy of the Soviets. The inaugural Biennale made a major international splash - the New York Times was so impressed they ran a half-page article entitled ‘Revolution in Zagreb’. John Cage was the star guest at the 1963 Biennale, famously crawling underneath his piano as part of the performance despite warnings from security officials that such avant-garde behaviour might start a riot.

The international cultural community’s new-found interest in Zagreb was also in evidence at New Tendencies (Nove Tendencije), a sequence of exhibitions-cum-festivals that brought together local and international artists keen to explore the possibilities of new technology. There were four editions of New Tendencies in the 1960s, and by the end of the decade it enjoye worldwide renown as one of the prime platforms for computer art.

Another example of Zagreb’s hold on the international imagination was Praxis, the journal of Marxist theory that brought together all kinds of people who didn’t go along with the ossified Soviet model of socialism and were subtly Summer 2018 21

The Sixties in Zagreb critical of the Yugoslav model too. First published in 1964, Praxis organized summer schools on the Adriatic island of Korčula that attracted an international who’s who of leftwing philosophers - Herbert Marcuse, Jürgen Habermas and Erich Fromm were among those who caught the ferry to the cute medieval town before locking horns in intense ideological debate.

Debates of a rather different nature filled the pages of Zagreb fashion magazine Svijet, a ground-breaking publication that boasted ambitious shoots, creative layouts, iconic front covers, and a lot of local talent in the design department. It also laid significant emphasis on what Croatian women could make at home: top fashion items were still quite difficult to get hold of in the shops, and you if really wanted to wear something stunning, you probably had to make it yourself.

Ivica Šerfezi and model, 1968, Photo by M.Čolić, Arts and Crafts Museum Archives

Đuro Griesbach, Jadranska magistrala, around 1958, Arts and Crafts Museum Archives

First generation of students of Ana Maletić Rhythm and Dance School, 1960.: Tihana Škrinjarić, Zorica Orepić (Vitez), Vlasta Kaurić, Alka Florschütz, Arts and Crafts Museum Archives

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

To a certain extent the lack of up-to-date consumer items in Croatian shops was compensated by the fact that Yugoslav citizens now had passports and were free to travel to the West. The Italian city of Trieste became the preferred shopping destination for generations of Croats, who came here to buy brands of jeans that couldn’t be found at home – alongside T-shirts, shoes, leather jackets, glossy magazines and the latest pop records.

Croatia’s own pop industry was in full swing. The country’s first real singing star Ivo Robić had already made an impact in the late Fifties, even having an international hit with his song Morgen (which reached no. 13 on the US Billboard charts) in 1959. However it wasn’t until the mid-Sixties that a boom in record player-ownership created a mushrooming demand for vinyl records. One of Yugoslavia’s biggest record labels was the Zagreb-based Jugoton, who cultivated local acts as well as signing up the best of the talent from other Yugoslav republics. The marketing of local pop stars, coupled with an increased emphasis on recordsleeve design, turned Croatian pop into the shop-window of Yugoslav socialist society. In 1964 Jugoton even opened a chic new music shop at Bogovićeva 5 in conscious imitation of the record boutiques of Western Europe – the shop is still there, although it now shares space with a musicthemed café.

In an age of popular culture and mass passions, one of the most significant symbols of Croatian identity was the football team Dinamo Zagreb. League champions in 1948, 1954 and 1958, they won the Yugoslav cup three times in the 1960s. Arguably their greatest triumph came in 1967, when they won the European Fairs Cup (forerunner of today’s Europa League) by beating another up-and-coming regional superpower, Leeds United. The next 15 years were a disappointment for Dinamo, and it wasn’t until 1982 that they raised another trophy. And as decades go, the Eighties turned out to be even more important than the Sixties in defining Zagreb’s character; but then that’s a whole different story…

By Jonathan Bousfield zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Croatian Didov san Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.

The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ (+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.konoba-didovsan.com.

Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (45 - 130kn).

A­P­G­S­L­W Korčula Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 160kn). A­P­G­B­ J­W Tip-Top This place looks utterly missable from outside. But we heard say that the food is excellent. The menu really is something special. It’s one of the few places in Zagreb offering absolutely traditional Dalmatian cuisine at prices you can afford. Pick fresh sardines, shark or – an unusual example of fusion cooking – octopus goulash. Be aware that the interior hasn’t changed since about 1968 – but in our view, that’s part of its simple charm.QB‑2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49/(+385-1) 483 03 50, www.gostionica-tiptop.hr. Open 11:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­W

Modern European AbOvo Bistro&Bar Daily menus prepped with only a few main course dishes are on offer as it all depends on market offerings; hence everything is seasonal and fresh! The range varies from tuna burgers to wild asparagus with goat cheese and more. The wine selection is vast, a vibrant décor surrounding with soothing background music sets the atmosphere.

Open for lunch and dinner!QK‑2, Bukovačka cesta 27, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 54, www.abovobistro.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 6 - 15. (70 - 100kn). A­P­G­X­T­E­S­6­W­K Agava Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediterranean as well as Croatian traditional dishes with a twist, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. Huge windows give you a chance to enjoy people-watching on Zagreb’s busiest pedestrian street.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, www. restaurant-agava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (77 - 299kn).

A­G­B­J­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

Carpaccio Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:30.

Closed Sun. (75 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­J­W Dubravkin put You’d be forgiven for not knowing there was a restaurant here, but Dubravkin Put, situated at the start of the path of the same name, is home to Priska Thuring, renowned Croatian-Swiss chef. Traditional Croatian menu available with modern twist. All reports share a common theme, in that Summer 2018 23

Restaurants you must try at least one dessert. Huge wine selection.

Ensure you book ahead as seating is limited.QB‑1, Du‑ bravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, www.dubravkinput.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 5 - 20. (90 - 210kn). A­P­G­B­L­J­W Hemingway Bar & Bistrot Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu classic with some unheard of combos that will knock your socks off, and the music is very much based on the clubbing and lounge scene!QB‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 88, bistro.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). A­G­T­B­J­W ­i Le Bistro A cute glass box attached to the northwestern side of the Esplanade hotel, Le Bistro has for years enjoyed a unique reputation as one of the best places in Zagreb for a classy business lunch. Repositioned with new flair by head chef Ana Grgić, it’s now more popular than ever. Long-time Bistro stalwarts like Wiener Schnitzel and local cult dish Štrukli (delicious doughy parcels stuffed with salty white cheese) are still on the menu, but there’s a lot of new, adventurous and seasonally-themed dishes to choose from; the risottos in particular come highly recommended.

QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 11/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.lebistro. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (120 - 210kn). A­P­G­T­B­ S­W Noel A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 4, 6, and 9 course tasting menus so that you can sample as much as possible. You can also book a special table where you’ll get more time with Goran Kočiš, Noel’s award winning head chef.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97, www.noel.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (150-200kn). A­P­G­T­S­J­W­K Time Restaurant & Bar Standing on a quiet corner just off the main square Time is one of the classiest drinking spots in the centre and also boasts an Asian-inspired fusion restaurant that is currently growing in reputation and popularity. Fashionably dark from the outside it’s actually rather suave and svelte inside, with low-key lighting and colourfully back-illuminated rows of spirit bottles ranged above a gleaming bar.

Particular stand-outs include Time’s additive-free fresh juices and lemonades, a big range of gins, Croatian rakijas from the Aura stable, and a fine cocktail menu. The restaurant menu runs from delectable sushi to rib-eye steaks and well-spiced curries. Reservations are advisable for the restaurant; and the bar can be difficult to get into at week24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

ends unless you’ve reserved a table. QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www.timerestaurant.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. (90 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­ T­B­J­W­K Vinodol A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family celebrations, Vinodol is one of those unavoidable Zagreb culinary landmarks that never lets its reputation slip. Given its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese.

Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring and summer – you may need to reserve. QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:30. (70 - 160kn).

A­P­G­B­J­6­W Zinfandel’s If you’re in search of somewhere special to eat out, then this restaurant, nestled inside Zagreb’s Esplanade Hotel should be near the top of your list. Such beautiful décor and remarkably quiet despite the hotel being adjacent to the city’s main train line. Here you can be assured of excellent food and staff all too willing to offer advice as to what to order. The restaurant also plays host to many conferences and wedding receptions over the year.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (155 - 410kn). A­P­ G­B­W

Meet the meat Kod Dede grill Carnivores take note, Kod dede (“Grandad’s place”) is a popular grill for local favourites ćevapčići and pljeskavica (meat patties), steaks and mixed grills. Hop on tram 17 from the main square heading west, skip out at Prečko and prepare for the start of a long love affair with delicious, juicy meat.QF‑4, Prečko 5c, tel. (+385-1) 381 75 37, www.koddede.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed July 23 - August 6. (38 - 131kn). P­G­B­L­W Papa’s This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.

QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas. hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 22:00. (35 - 48kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Plješivička klet All the meat products are made from their home-reared piggies, including delicious loooong curly sausages, blood sausages and ham hocks. Rustic in atmosphere, you’ll have a full tummy and a big smile on your face when you leave, and your meal won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

Near Jarun.QG‑4, Staglišće 23, tel. (+385-1) 369 50 88, www.pljesivicka-klet.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 31 - August 15. (45 90kn). A­P­G­B­L­W Pri Zvoncu Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke – a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line – you won’t regret it.QI‑4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com.

Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun, Closed August 4 - 22.

(50 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­W R&B Food House of Ribs is a slam dunk! Owner and Executive Chef, Joško Višnjić, spent years fine-tuning his barbecuing skills in the Southern USA and has successfully transported facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

the intricacies and know-how to Zagreb. The owners certainly go above and beyond when it comes to offering the very best ingredients and authentic American barbecue flavours. The ribs (baby back pork ribs, veal, and authentic Boškarin beef) are all meticulously prepared and nurtured for between 12 hours and 2 days; ending with a quick turn on their custom-made charcoal grill. The results are nothing less than astounding: the profound flavours are steeped in flawless smokey goodness, with a crispy outside, tender inside, and covered with the perfect BBQ sauce. R&B Food is definitely the only game in town when it comes to top quality American-style barbecue ribs.QH‑4, Puljska 9, tel. (+385-) 091 366 46 05, www. rnbfood.com. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 22:30.

(90 - 180kn). A­G­S­V­6­W Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta Writing reviews can sometimes be problematic, as you try and single out the very best aspects to showcase. With TPK it’s simple. Everything is good. You’ll need to book your table in advance, but that’s to be expected. TPK is a meat-eater’s paradise, and this reviewer’s favourite is the ‘train’, where they bring out different dishes one after another, with differing levels of spiciness.QSavska 107/1, tel. (+385-1) 619 96 07, www.tvornica-pljeskavica-kosta.hr.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 90kn). P­G­B­W

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2018 25

Restaurants Wine & Bites Bagel & Lobster Barr Breakfast and brunch bagels are served until 11:00, then the day menu kicks in with a motherload of creative and delicious fillings. Lobster served in brioche rolls, as croquettes or in coconut bisque are tempting alternatives.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 2a, tel. (+385-) 091 766 44 38, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 08:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. A­PJ­W­ Beštija This minimalistic city centre restaurant is in a courtyard with very little outside seating but has a small and very interesting menu. The staff are friendly and the atmosphere delightful, making “The Beast” (as the name translates) a prime contender for a short breather when you’re in town.QB‑2, Ma‑ sarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 888 59 34. Open 11:30 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (60-110kn). A­P­J­W Bistro RougeMarin Looking for a suave casual dining place where you get value for your plate size, look no further. This Bistro has a great combo of foods on the menu where they pride themselves on the ingredients used. Weekly menus change adding variety to regulars with choices such as steaks, ribs, pastas and soups. A bronzed burger menu and wok dishes are always highly sort.QK‑4, Frana Folnegovića 10, tel. (+3851) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788 87 76, www.rougemarin.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 180kn). A­G­B­6­W Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+3851) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed Au‑ gust 6 - 20. (75 - 145kn). A­P­G­B­W Mio Corazon There’s genuine Spanish know-how behind this small eatery, and it shows in the range of tapas on offer. Pršut, fish, olives, the toppings are ones you’ll recognise, but perhaps will not have tasted quite like this. It’s difficult to pick a favourite, but if pushed we’d recommend you try the olive pesto tapas; the flavour just explodes in your mouth.QC‑2, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-) 091 240 17 90. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 150kn). N­X­B­J

Le Bistro, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pod Zidom Bistro&Wine Bar Pod Zidom offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a cozy terraced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle and bustle of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Croatian specialities.QC‑2, Pod zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (82 - 180kn). B­E zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Pupitres BAR Run by noted local sommelier Jelena Šimić Valentić this smart, chic but altogether charming wine bar is one of the best places to explore the world of Croatian wine. The arched brick ceiling has been painted white to give the place a geometric pop-art look, and the range of wines on offer ensure that you can try something affordable as well as quaffing the finest vintages the country has to offer.

Settle your stomach with pršut and Pag cheese, alongside delicious crusty bread. QB‑2, Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385) 098 165 8073, www.pupitres.hr/. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15.

(15 - 85kn). A­P­G­B­W

Ethnic African Cuisine & Bar Launched by a Zagreb-based Nigerian duo, this neat and welcoming place gets visitors in the mood with evocative pictures of savannah-roaming animals. The menu is small but still pretty adventurous by Zagreb standards, with a good balance of meat and vegetarian dishes featuring a lot of yam, plantain and spicy beans. There’s a hearty home-cooked aspect to just about everything on offer; for dessert try the Zebra Cake, a suitably be-striped black and white affair dripping with chocolate sauce. QB‑3, Gunduliceva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 617 7778. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 75kn). A­G­B­S­J­W Asia Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). A­P­G­W El Toro Restaurant & Bar As you might expect from the name, this place is themed around good steaks and Latin American cuisine – however these are just the starting blocks for chef Mario Mihelj’s imaginative way with the pots and pans. The aged T-bones and rib-eyes are what many people come for although there’s plenty more to choose from, including gourmet tacos and a couple of variations on ceviche (a spicy citrus raw-fish dish from Peru). Seafood is a bit more adventurous than in traditional Croatian restaurants; the baked sea bass for example comes with a delicate twist of ginger and sweet-and-sour sauce.QJ‑3, Ul. fra Filipa Grabovca 1, tel. (+385-) 099 613 2926, www.eltoro.hr/.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15.

(80-200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W Ginger Sushi A quick and unfussy sushi joint offering excellent Japanese fare in chic but functional surroundings, this is one of your best bets for a quality meal on the move. Popular orders facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

include an exemplary miso soup, and a wide choice of 10to 18-piece sushi and tempura sets.Ginger Sushi’s position on busy downtown Masarykova makes it a great place to plant yourself on a stool by the window ledge and watch the world pass by.QB‑2, Masarykova 21, tel. (+385-1)889 70 86, www.gingersushi.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 -83kn). A­G­B­S­ J­W Namaste Zagreb’s newest Indian restaurant is a large contemporary space and the menu is a fun and creative blend of traditional and modern dishes. Vegan food and a children’s menu are available, and everything is accompanied by colour and smiles aplenty.QH‑4, Selska cesta 217, tel. (+385-1) 626 44 58, www.namastezagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 85kn). A­P­L­W Royal India The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine where the scent of incense greets you right at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.

QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65. Open 11:30 - 22:45. (65 - 100kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W­K Summer 2018 27

Restaurants for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito!QK‑2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (49 - 64kn). A­P­G­B­S­6­W O’Hara O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee.

QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www. oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (4569kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S

Dubravkin put, Photo by Rajna Photography

Pizzeria Veža For decent pizza just outside the centre there’s a lot to be said for making the short trek to Veža, just beyond Kvatrić market. It certainly has a memorable interior, featuring exposed red brick, discreet lighting, and seating arranged communally along either side of a long, irregularly shaped table that meanders through the centre of the room. Although they’re named after local streets, the pizzas themselves are largely traditional in style, give or take the odd creative twist: “Fijanova” is basically a Quattro Formaggi, while “Jordanovac” takes a standard tomato-and-mozzarella topping to another dimension with the addition of capers, rocket and carpaccio of swordfish.QK‑2, Maksi‑ mirska 29, tel. (+385-) 098 384 304. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

(39 - 59kn). G­B­S­V­W

Vege Restaurants Takenoko Sushi Bar Having blazed a trail for Japanese food in Zagreb and carved an enviable niche for creative Asian-European fusion, Takenoko remains the place to go for fine dining with far-eastern flair. Their move from the upper reaches of Tkalčićeva to new premises in the heart of town has if anything confirmed their preeminence. The deftly designed interior of dark greys and greens oozes class; while there’s a superb range of sushi and a well-balanced choice of globally-inspired mains. Among the desserts, the green tea ice cream is worth singling out.QB‑2, Masarykova 22, tel. (+385-1) 646 33 85, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:00 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. July 20 - August 20 Open 18:00 - 23:30. (80 - 300kn). A­P­G­W

Pizza Duksa It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”).

Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Veganšpek The latest hip new thing to hit the rapidly rising Martićeva area is this bright mid-range-to-upmarket bistro that delights the eye with its soothing but colourful pop-art interior. The name means something like “vegan/bacon”, a neat reflection of their desire to attract discerning foodies of both persuasions. The menu is actually divided into three sections; one for meat, one for fish, and one for vegan options – all of which are given equal priority when it comes to culinary creativity. Expect a measured approach to culinary fusion with a well-chosen mix of local and oriental ingredients and some genuine surprises – such as the Adriatic squid with brown rice and cherryliqueur sauce. The desserts are well worth making room for. QE‑2, Ul. Nikole Tomašića 6A, tel. (+385-) 095 892 2960. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (32 -155kn). A­P­G­B­S­V­J­W ­i Zrno Bio Bistro 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.

QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www. zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (55 75kn). A­P­G­B­6­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes A Most Unusual Garden Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­G­ X­B­6­W Botaničar Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in another, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden. This part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy your tea or coffee.QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 6. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. P­X­T­B­S­J­6­W Cogito Coffee Shop This neat little minimalist masterpiece serves coffee from Cogito, the city’s prime independent importer and roaster of quality, carefully-sourced beans. With functional-butcute decor, indie rock in the background, and a varied choice of English-language magazines, it’s a great place to take a breather.And there’s an outdoor terrace on this ruggedly handsome nineteenth-century street. QA‑2, Prilaz Đure Deželića 40, www.cogitocoffee.com/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Express Bar It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. P­B­J­W

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Jutro This cozy and colourful cafe, decorated in purple, turquoise and gold, is a delight to visit anytime of the day, not just the morning, which is what jutro means. Stop by with your friends for breakfast or savour some healthy sweets, such as a slice of Flourless Cake or Empress Carrot Cake. Sip on a warm cup of coffee or fresh squeezed juice to energize yourself. As well, they have an array of teas to choose from, which can help cure many of your ailments. At the end of your stay, treat yourself to purchasing one of their beautiful handmade souvenirs.QD‑2, Vlaška 45. Open 08:30 - 22:30. G­B­J­W ­i Kino Europa Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and must see independent features and documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for upcoming features. In 2016 Kino Europa won the Best Programming Award by Europa Cinemas, making it officially the best arthouse cinema in Europe!QB‑2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, www.kinoeuropa. hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 02:00. P­G­B­J­W Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.

Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.

QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 44, www. velvet.hr/en/caffe.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 14:00. A­P­G­T­B­J­6­W ­i

Read more reviews online: zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2018 29

Coffee & Cakes that a full range of artisanal ice cream (rather than just the mass-produced stuff ) has been a fact of life in Croatia for decades. One of the most famous of these patisseries is Orijent (J-2, Maksimirska 34), which has been around since 1937, and is famed throughout the capital for the quality and invention of its cakes; the same degree of care and creativity goes into its ice cream. A well as straightforward vanilla, chocolate and fruit flavours they excel in coming up with their own inventions. Black Forest Gateau, Creme de Cassis and Fred & Ginger (a zingy orange and ginger confection) are just some of their regulars; the recently added Key Lime Pie features bits of meringue and biscuit as well as a refreshing dose of lime. Another family-run patisserie with a city-wide reputation, Vincek (C-2, Ilica 18) is another good source of own-recipe ice cream; the peanut-rich SnikiKikiriki and the house special Vincek (featuring walnuts, honey and wine) are two recipes that stand out. Vincek’s relatively new outlet Vis-à-vis, just below the Zagreb funicular station (B-2, ul. Tomićeva 2), offers organic, gluten-free ice cream in an equally imaginative range of flavours.

Torterie Macaron, Photo by John Pavlish

Ice Cream in Zagreb Beetroot? Spinach? It’s amazing what kind of ice-cream flavours you can get nowadays. And this is especially true in Zagreb, a city that has always had a pronounced taste for ice cream and which is currently undergoing an ice-cream boom in terms of the quality and variety of what’s on offer.

The commercial end of Croatian ice-cream culture has long been dominated by Ledo, the popular local brand that started in 1958 and has remained a central plank of peoples’ childhood memories ever since. The company’s white polar bear logo was one of the most recognizable brands in the former Yugoslavia, and is still fairly ubiquitous - if you’re buying ice cream from shops, or from stands in the streets, Lake Jarun or Maksimir Park, Ledo is what you are most likely to get. Ledo’s first ever product, Snjeguljica (Snow White), was a vanilla ice cream on a stick with a chocolate coated tip. It’s still one of their most popular products, although it has now been joined by an array of different cornets and lollies.

Slastičarnica Zagreb (C-2, ul. Masarykova 4) is another magnet for the sweet-toothed, with mainstream ice-cream flavours joined by local-ingredient specialities such as Elderflower (Bazga), with its distinctive flowery taste. The nearby b 041 (B-3, ul. Masarykova 25) offers the nearest thing you can get to Italian gelato in Zagreb, with a big choice of light, refreshing, predominantly fruity flavours. Another cult place for ice cream is Cukeraj tucked into a corner of Britanski trg, which has carved out a niche for itself in producing delicate combinations of natural ingredients - Elderflower with mint being one particularly successful example.

Arguably Croatia’s most cultish ice cream is Medenko, from the nearby town of Samobor, pioneers in the production of unusual-but-appropriate flavours who make a point of sourcing their ingredients from local family businesses. It was Medenko who first foisted betroot ice cream on an uncertain but ultimately converted public with their determination to come up with unusual blends which sound as if they shouldn’t really work but emphatically do – Earl Grey tea with dark chocolate, forest fruits with lavender, or our favourite, spinach with blueberry jam. A touch more expensive than the average cornet, Medenko ice cream comes in tubs and is sold at their own place in Samobor (ul. M. Kleščića 1; www.facebook.com/slatkatvornicamedenko/) and at select outlets in Zagreb – the most central of which is Cogito Coffee (B-2) at Varšavska 11.

Zagreb is also full of patisseries (slastičarnice) which have a tradition of making their own ice cream – which means 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Alternative Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for or‑ ganized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. N­P­G­X­U­ B­E­L­6­W

Bars Bacchus Jazz Bar Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. N­X­T­B­J­6­W Booze&Blues A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze&Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb.

Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­X­T­B­E­J­6­W Gostiona There’s no way you can miss Gostiona if you ever frequent the city centre. Situated on the start of Preradovićeva, basically on Cvjetni, Gostiona is a café bar by day, wine bar and party hub by night. The windows open onto the square allowing resident DJs to entertain guests on the terrace. Themed nights and promotions are a regular occurrence here, so you’re always guaranteed variety.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 091 200 29 87. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. A­B­W Mr. Fogg Zagreb’s first dedicated steampunk venue, Mr. Fogg is spacious and ever growing in popularity with the city’s regular bar-hoppers. Exposed brickwork, dials and gauges abound, and unusual metal sculptures everywhere. If you’re the sort of café-goer who loves taking photos of your surrounds, then you must set aside an afternoon or night and make a trip to Martićeva.QE‑2, Martićeva 31.

Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. B­J Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Diamond Palace Casino Diamond Palace Casino Zagreb – the embodiment of glamour, elegance and fun! At night, this impressive 1600m2 ambiance with murano glass chandeliers, suede playing tables, and a bar made of rare onyx turns into an almost surreal backdrop for players, as well as an inspirational space for theme parties where you can have fun with your favourite athletes and numerous stars who this Casino has become an integral part of nightlife. Bar of ultimate entertainment and stakes are constantly being raised, as well as the activities at international tournaments of passionate poker players who are pouring into Zagreb. QD‑3, Draškovićeva 43, tel. (+385-) 091 311 36 19, www. casino-diamondpalace.com. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

P­L­J­W­O friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www. vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 30 - August 14. P­X­T­B­E­6­W Summer 2018 31

Nightlife For connoisseurs Aperitivo Bar Fancy a cocktail! Then head on over to the Aperitivo Bar for a brand new list of signature cocktails to help you cool off from the summer heat. The bar staff has found inspiration from artists and their artistic masterpieces; therefore you can try beverages such as Da Vinci, Klimt, Matisse…Cocktails and gin (present here in innumerable different variations) are two obvious standouts, although Aperitivo also works perfectly well as a great vodka bar, a great rum bar, or a great whisky bar; indeed the menu is a book-length guide to the world of stylish drinking. The clientele ranges from the millennial to the professional, and resident DJs are on hand most nights of the week to generate that allimportant good-night-out groove. QC‑2, Vlaška ul. 9, tel.

091 111 1678. Open 08:00 - 02:00. X­B­J­W Dežman Bar Lined with fashion boutiques, florists and design stores, the intimate pedestrianized Dežmanova street is like a little piece of Paris pulled out of place and plonked down in downtown Zagreb. The Dežman Bar very much lives up to the prevailing ambience, with a chic and soothing coffee bar that serves exquisite cakes and snacks, and a more intimate drinks bar (“Dežman Mini Bar”) with a separate entrance a few doors down, serving a shrewdly-curated mix of wines, spirits and classy creative cocktails. Served in both locations is a range of affordable, seasonally-changing gourmet food ranging from sandwiches to pasta, risotto, fish and steaks.QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, Dežman Mini Bar Open Tue, Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon and Sun. Closed August 4 - 20. P­X­T­B­J­W ­i

Swanky Monkey Garden You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and documentation dating back to the building’s previous life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard. Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, DJs, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups for club nights and festivals; it’s never a dull moment.QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, www.swanky-hostel.com/ mint/index.php/menza-bar. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­J­6­W­C ­i

Clubs Boogaloo A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own.QI‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 091 622 07 45, www.boogaloo.hr. Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. P­X­B­W Confusion Situated at the beginning of Tkalčićeva, Confusion looks much like any other place from the outside. Inside, however, you’ll find that the décor is unique to say the least.

Borrowing from world religions and cultures, the walls are festooned with iconography and items from all over. The menu is as expansive, with kangaroo and crocodile available. The non-smoking area is abysmal, unfortunately, and is not smoke free at any stage of the day.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 15, tel. (+385-) 098 46 36 65, www.confusion.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. A­P­X­T­B­S­V­J­W­K ­i Johann Franck If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. Reasonably priced food menu with affordable daily specials posted on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www. johannfranck.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­G­X­B­J

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Opera Club Zagreb’s general architecture lends to some interesting entertainment locations, and Opera is one such place. Just a few minutes’ walk from the main square, Opera is a Multimedia Club, and has a full schedule for the city’s residents and anyone passing through on a weekend break. The club takes bookings for groups and for special events. Bring a camera, you’ll want to share with your friends.QC‑2, Petrin‑ jska 4. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A­X­J­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Jazz Boogie Long popular under the name of Maraschino and now reopened under a new name,this three-storey jazz-themed bar is one of the best places to catch live music in the downtown area. Concerts take place in an atmospheric cellar space while both the ground floor and the mezzanine retain their previous functions as intimate day-andnight drinking dens. There are live gigs and jams from Wednesday through to Saturday starting at 21:00 (admission to the cellar floor costs from 20kn to 50kn depending on who’s on) and there’s often DJ entertainment on into the early hours.QC‑2, Margaretska ul. 1. Mon, Tue 16:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Closed Sun. E­J Harmica Jazz Pub This jazz pub in the very heart of Zagreb puts on live jazz performances every day. There are great wines and beers on offer and excellent food is brought from a nearby traditional tavern.QC‑1, Radićeva ul. 3A, tel. (+385-1) 626 75 84. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. X­B­J­W

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­6­W Garden Brewery Situated in the wilds of Žitnjak, Garden Brewery, like its name suggests, is the brainchild of the team behind Tisno’s Garden Festival. The brewery has a bar, open to the public, and serves food, courtesy of Submarine Burger.

Garden Brewery holds frequent events, with renowned DJs such as Craig Charles (Red Dwarf) and the Zagreb Allstars.QL‑4, Slavonska avenija 22F, tel. (+385-1) 563 41 00, thegarden.hr/brewery/en. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. B­W Hub Cooltura Pub Zagreb, like any city, will always have its secret spots, and Hub Cooltura Pub is one of these. Tucked away just south and east from the main bus station, this is an ideal location to meet your friends and not be bothered by roaming groups of rowdy revellers. Coffee by day, some craft beer by night. Not a place for a quick beer, more a place to sit and savour your drink.QK‑3/4, Rapska 20. Open 07:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A­G­X­U­B­6­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Bartender, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

Mighty fine wine Basement This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure.

QB‑2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, www. basement-bar.net. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. A­P­G­B­J­W La Bodega Zagreb Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wines. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds one of the most popular street, Bogovićeva.

QC‑2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 099 735 44 41, www.labodega.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. A­P­X­T­B­E­J­W ­i Summer 2018 33

Sightseeing Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Dolac (Dolac Market) Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, Zoological Garden of Zagreb is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zoo.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. The ticket office closes an hour and half before closing time. Admission 30/20 kn.

34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mirogoj Cemetery Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park.

Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Hermanna Bollea 27.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 19:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.

Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20 kn. U Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn. U Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed.QB‑1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00, www.hismus.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10/5 kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed ‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time.

Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15kn. U Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he completed many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 30/15kn.

Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55/(+385-1) 604 10 44, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.

QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www. brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

What’s going on? facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija) Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00.

Admission 40/25kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.

Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, www.hmnu.hr. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/15kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15kn.

Fierce Women is a fun and educational social card game that promotes women’s contributions to society, www.facebook.com/ FierceWomenCardGame

38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/30kn. U zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Typhlology Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn.

Zagreb 80’s Museum This fun museum serves as a trip down memory lane for people who were here in the 1980s, and as an education in a golden era for those who were far away or not yet born.

The 1980s in socialist Zagreb were bittersweet – undoubtedly there were systemic and political problems, but there was a certain carefree innocence which many yearn for today. However we are here for a fun peek into the home of a Zagreb family just as it would have been then, and you are free to play the records, try on the clothes and play with the toys and the retro Atari and Commodore 64 computer games!QC‑1, Radićeva 34, www.zagreb80.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 40/25kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/20kn. U

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Galleries Art Pavilion in Zagreb (Umjetnički paviljon) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission varies depending on exhibition.

Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 25/10 kn. U

For kids Backo Express The largest model train set in Southeast Europe. It is a miniature wonderland where no detail has been spared. With a kilometre of tracks winding from underfoot to overhead, this miniature world is a favourite for small children, while at the same time just as interesting for discerning adults of all ages. Enthusiasts of the genre will be mesmerized by the over 100 model train compositions: featuring passenger trains to freighters and everything in between. Not to be outdone, hundreds of roads are set into the stunning scenery and are alive will all manner of moving motor vehicles; complete with stoplights and traffic signals. Unique to Backo is a model ski hill complete with tiny skiers carving up the face of this one-of-akind feature.QB‑2, Gundulićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 098 20 28 83, www.backo.hr. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 25/20kn.

Summer 2018 39

Sightseeing Oris House of Architecture The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts conferences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the arts. There’s a multimedia hall and library.QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377 81 77, www.oris.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

Landmarks The locals feel the following are somehow representative of their culture. Either that or they passionately attempt to deny their relevance. In any event, here they are.

Grič Tunnel (Tunel Grič) Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel was recently opened to the public and is located between Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city centre. A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there whilst in the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

The Croatian State Archives (Hrvatski državni arhiv) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb.

This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www. arhiv.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Thu 08:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.

Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 68, gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 20/10 kn.

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct 40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

INTERESTING FACTS These places have that unmistakable air of the bizarre, eclectic and/or funky hanging about them making them a perfect destination.

Alley of Sculptures - Open-Air gallery on the banks of the Sava After a four-year hiatus, sculptor Alan Novoselac and the Croatian Association of Artists (HDLU), began setting up sculptures by Croatian artists and sculptors at the Alley of Sculptures. It was opened with the launching of the 12th sculpture in the series, by artist Zlatko Bourek, called Međaš (Border) Against Spells and Floods. Starting with the thought that: “The Drava, Danube and Sava rivers often rise to your doorstep, that’s why we carry our houses on our heads and bring them to safe places.” Bourek makes his sculpture a talisman against floods and pays tribute to all that have contributed to preventing the rivers from breaking their banks.

Berlin Wall in Zagreb One of the original pieces of the Berlin Wall can be found in Zagreb in front of the German embassy and Goethe’s institute at Ulica Grada Vukovara 64. It was donated to the city of Zagreb on the 20th anniversary of its dismantling by German businessman Axel Brauer. Many cities around the world now have a piece of the famous Wall, which is one of the most sought after souvenirs in the world. The original Wall was constructed in 1961 and separated West and East Germany till its demise on November 9th 1989.

Aquatika Karlovac Aquatika - Freshwater aquarium Karlovac Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to get to know our fishy friends better and understand more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity the Karlovac region is.QUlica Branka Čavlovića Čavleka 1a, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 65 91 12, www. aquariumkarlovac.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis‑ sion 60/35kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Karlovac this year celebrates its 439th birth day, and the celebrations will last three whole weeks. Right up to 13 July, for those who head to Karlovac it will be easy to join in the fun since the celebratory spirit will take over almost every corner of the city.

You are all invited to the of 439th birthday celebrations of the city of Karlovac.

Let's celebrate together from 23 June til 13 July!

More info: www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr

City of meetings

KARLOVAC TOURIST BOARD | +385 47 615 115 | info@karlovac-touristinfo.hr

Sightseeing

Meridian 16° The meridian 16° east of Greenwich is a line of longitude that extends from the North to the South Pole and runs through the city of Zagreb. A sculpture dedicated to the 16th Meridian was created for the occasion of the 1987 Summer Universiade held in Zagreb. It’s located at the large intersection of Vukovarska and Držićeva streets. A closer analysis revealed that the true meridian actually passes some 200 metres to the east — but nobody seems to care.

Napoleon’s Milestone On the South side of the river Sava, by the footbridge that spans it, can be found what some call Napoleon’s Milestone. It’s located close to the entrance to the Zagreb Hippodrome, and the Kajzerica neighbourhood, and dates back to the 19th century when the French Emperor Napoleon established what was then known as the Illyrian Provinces — a short-lived autonomous province of the French Empire with the Sava as its border. The name Illyrian was used to give credence to the Neoclassicist re-labeling of the Dalmatian coast, which was known in antiquity as Illyria.

Tesla Tower For the 11th edition of the INmusic festival, held in May of 2016 at Jarun Lake in Zagreb, the city erected a 30 meter replica of the Wardenclyffe Tower, also known as the Tesla 42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Tower. The tower contains 3,500 zinked metal parts replicating the original structure. The original was 57 meters high with a spherical top 20 meters in diameter, and was designed by Nikola Tesla in New York between 1901 and 1902 to wirelessly transmit messages and images across the Atlantic. Rumours say the original tower was destroyed in 1917 to prevent it from being used by German spies, others say it was scrapped to cover unpaid debts.

Zagreb Mummy Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing WORLD OF ILLUSIONS When you look at optical illusions, you may think that you are seeing things like moving objects that are standing still, curved lines that are actually straight or images that are slowly disappearing.

You think that your eyes are playing tricks on you but your perception of an illusion has more to do with how your brain works and less to do with the optics of your eye. Optical illusions can use colour, light and different patterns to create images that can be deceptive or misleading to our brain.

Information gathered by the eye is processed by the brain, creating a perception thatdoesn’t match the true image.

Join us in the world of illusions. With over 70 exhibits,the Museum of Illusions is a place where you can learn, explore and test your skills with friends and family.

With optical illusions, Einstein’s hollow face illusion, holograms and many more exhibits you’ll see that your eyes are playing tricks on you.

Try the chair illusion and learn more about the laws of perception, or step into the anti-gravity room and learn more about the laws of physics. Try to find the end of the bottomless pit, get lost in the room full of mirrors andif you are up to it, go for a walk on the ceiling or experience how it feels to be very small or a giant.

Visit the Museum of Illusions and learn more about how your brain works and test your perception and skills in this fascinating and unique world of illusions where nothing is what it appears to be.

QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, www. muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Admission 40/25kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

Museum of Illusions Archives

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2018 43

Sightseeing Zagreb’s Solar System Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury (Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put), Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006.

Green Oases Summer on Stross, Photo by M. Gašparović, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Rokov perivoj Tucked uphill just behind the post office on Britanski trg, this green space is an almost forgotten urban planning project repopulating a former cemetery with villas designed by architect Viktor Kovačić, and lived in by artists.

The nude sculpture in the centre of the park is by the former resident of No. 2, sculptor Robert Frangeš Mihanović.

Tuškanac Forest (šuma tuškanac) This forest stretches down from the foothills of Mount Medvednica almost to Ilica, the city’s main shopping street. Tuškanac street is a beautiful residential area with many villas housing embassies, while the forest has trails ideal for jogging and dog walking.

Top 5 Instagram Spots Dolac Market The colours of the produce piled high on the stalls at the city’s central market are simply irresistible.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives Zagreb Classic, King Tomislav Square, Photo by M. Gašparović, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

St Mark’s Church, Gornji grad The beautiful colours of the church roof make this a favourite motif on Instagram shots.QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

The Gradec Plateau This lovely viewpoint offers a panorama of the part of the city where the Cathedral is located.

The Lotrščak Tower This attractive white tower is the spot from which a cannon is fired every day to mark noon. You can climb to the top of the tower, where you’ll find there is an excellent view over the city centre.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 20/10 kn.

Zagreb 360 Observation Deck A great place to take a shot of Zagreb’s main square from a bird’s eye perspective.QC‑2, Ilica 1a, 16th floor, tel. (+385-1) 487 65 87, www.zagreb360. hr. Mon, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Tue 12:00 - 23:00, Wed 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:45. Admission 60/30kn. Family ticket 150kn.

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping In the Know Ana Ivančić - Garderoba Concept Store ZIYP: Can you tell us something about the ‘Garderoba Concept Store’ and how did you come up with the idea of opening such a store? Did your love for fashion play a crucial role in making that decision?

Ana: The ‘Garderoba Concept Store’ is the realisation of my vision of a place where women would be offered different types of clothes in comparison to what Zagreb has been offering; providing the complete experience of trying out something new, by stepping out of their comfort of wearing the usual clothing combinations and colours, and by providing advice and information about the novelties of the world of fashion, as well as material and design in general. In its first year of its existence, Garderoba has been recognised by many women as a place where one can find out what is new fashion wise and where women can get together and get useful advice.

The idea of opening the Garderoba Concept Store is a result of my personal experience that I’ve been collecting for years in many world metropolitan cities and the feeling that something like this is missing in Zagreb. After one year of running this business, I can gladly conclude that I was correct.

ZIYP: The Garderoba Concept Store offers mostly Scandinavian designer brands. Are you a fan of Scandinavian fashion or is there another link with Scandinavian countries?

Ana: I have always been fascinated by clothes, not just as something to cover the body and protect ourselves from the cold, but as a means of expressing our personality, mood... Dressing up for me has always been a game of combination and functionality, depending on the occasion, and this is exactly what makes Scandinavian fashion design. In Garderoba, we have vastly different Danish and Swedish fashion brands: BY MALENE BIRGER; GANNI; BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN; RODEBJER; DESIGNERS REMIX; RABENS, which can be combined with each other, although each of them has a very specific DNA. It is all about functional clothing and high quality materials with an emphasis on top design that makes clothes timeless and is not blindly tied to current trends. Our clients are women who try to be themselves and be different.

ZIYP: It is noticeable at the entrance to the Garderoba Concept Store that this is not a regular shop; great attention has been paid to interior decoration, changing rooms, the staff accompanying you throughout the buying process, thus we can freely say that the term slow-shopping is presented here in the best possible way. Was this the main idea when decorating the interior?

Ana: The Garderoba Concept Store has been decorated as a large luxury wardrobe where a woman can feel comfortable, relaxed and can fully indulge in the selection and trying on of clothing. Our staff is here to give advice if that is the client’s wish, and to offer what we have for certain spe46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

cial occasions. Likewise, we try to be critical and will not resort to selling a clothing item if we consider that some other model may be better suited to a particular client. In this way, we have gradually gained the trust of the already respectable number of women who give us recommendations and so almost every day we have new customers. It’s a wonderful feeling.

ZIYP: What Croatian designers can be found in the Garderoba Concept Store? There are pieces by Ivana Omazić. Do you follow other Croatian designers?

Ana: Yes, since the very opening we have had the Ivana Omazić collection and from this winter also a collection by the Croatian conceptual artist Silvio Vujičić and his fashion brand E.A.1 / 1. These are unique garments made of elaborately woven fabrics that tell a story in each collection. We follow the Croatian fashion scene with high interest and I believe that we will soon begin collaborating with other fashion brands as well.

ZIYP: What would you pick out of the 2018 spring/ summer seasons from the Garderoba offer?

Ana: In this season, we have two current collections by our fashion brands; the spring/summer and the pre-autumn collection that has just arrived to the store. The most popular garment in Garderoba is certainly a dress. From mini to maxi dresses, silky, viscous, cotton, to those in strong colours such as green or orange, red and right up to dusty pink or sandy colours. We also offer clothes and jewellery

by CORNELIA WEBB, PERNILLA CORYDON and Croatian designer MAMMI, as well as accessories, such as scarfs, handbags, shoes, perfumes and EIGHT & BOB scented candles. As a novelty in our offer, we have travel steamers by the top Swedish designer brand STEAMERY, which will make it easier for our clients to have top-of-the-line fully ironed clothes during their travels. Starting this upcoming autumn, we are preparing some new things in Garderoba with new brands WOODWOOD and LIBERTINE that will offer our customers something completely different. In response to numerous inquiries, along with the women’s collection, the Danish fashion brand WOODWOOD is also bringing their first male collection to our store.

Garderoba Garderoba Concept Store Is fashion your passion? Then head to Garderoba Concept Store (which literally means wardrobe in Croatian) for a completely new range of clothes not to be found elsewhere. Its comprises of internationally acclaimed Croatian designer Ivana Omazić’s full collection as well as top Scandinavian brands which include ‘By Malene Birger, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Rodebjer amongst others. Purpose fully designed, the store is devoted to the concept of slow shopping and has three large wardrobes in the form of a spatial attraction. The attire seeks sophisticated minimalism in a multifunctional style. The lavish interior and quality staff make this shopping experience one to remember.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 770 11 77. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Borut Mihalić - Top Niche Perfumery ZIYP: Borut, we know you as a fashion designer but a few years ago with the opening of the TOP perfumery, you turned to the world of perfume fragrances.

When did your love for perfumes first appear?

Borut: My passion for perfume started very early. In fact, an enchantment to different scents has long been nurtured in my family, since the time of my grandmothers and grandfathers, through to my parents. It obviously peaked with me even if I was working extra in the cosmetic niche industry. I still follow domestic and foreign fashion events as much as possible, and I continue to collaborate on certain fashion shows.

ZIYP: How did you come up with the idea of opening a niche perfume shop in Zagreb?

Borut: I have always been interested in unusual, different scents, fragrances that many people do not have, the ones you need to try hard to get, scents which intrigue with their story, smell, special ingredients... Somewhere near the end of my teenage years I bought my first niche perfume and ever since then, that love just grew stronger and stronger. Although it used to be an idealised vision, today it is as realistic as possible because I have the opportunity to testify absolutely everything related to a specific product.

ZIYP: Can you give us more details about which brands can be found in perfumery, and about their specifics?

Borut: In perfumery, we present approximately forty brands, primarily because of their fragrant DNA. Here are some examples with explanations: Escentric Molecules - because they were the first to start the new wave in the world of perfumer by presenting fragrant molecules in a modern way. The Byredo brand impressed me with its wearing capacity as well as Scandinavian aesthetics.

Aesop’s functional face and body skin care has an apothecary ‘touch’. Xerjoff’s rich and lavish Italian fragrances or Profvmvm Roma essential oils have been brought to perfection in their beauty. Roja Parfumsis known as one of the most luxurious fragrant brands (the classic line of facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

perfumes cost up to 3000 Euros). Juliette Has a Gun, a wonderful (mostly feminine) scent that sends you into a niche world. Naomi Goodsir - different and uncompromising (the best perfume award in France for the year 2017).

Unum and Sauf who are immersed in the Christian sense of smell. Kemi, SoOud, Xerjoff Oud Stars are all fragrances that take on the aromatic Arabian aesthetic theme.

ZIYP: How do you choose perfumes that will be available in your perfumery?

Borut: I choose the brands first and foremost as they are interesting and appealing to me. Ultimately, it’s the domestic audience that makes a judgment on the success of a particular brand in our market. As it has been for now, my ‘nose’ has not made that many mistakes.

ZIYP: Your fragrance recommendation for the spring/summer 2018 season.

Borut: This year we’ve already had hot weather and summer is just about upon us. I suggest wearing airy fragrances that refresh and spread a pleasant freshness around us. There are various options: scents with different citrus fruits (bitter orange, yuzu, bergamot ...), clean scents (fragrances inspired by the imaginative scent of purity), floral scents (iris, gardenia or something completely different ...), mild fruity scents, etc. Ultimately, I think it is for everyone to choose what they like - don’t follow trends blindly.

Top Niche Perfumery

Summer 2018 47

Shopping Andrija Pečarić - The Goldsmith’s Treasure ZIYP: The book ‘The Goldsmith’s Treasure’ by August Šenoa is the first Croatian historical novel. How did you come up with the idea of translating this novel into English and about turning it into a souvenir of the city of Zagreb?

Andrija: For a number of years I have been working in management and dealing with sales, marketing and publishing; however, as time passed I had got tired of such work and felt the need to launch something of my own.

I simply decided to do something that would make me happy and give me fulfilment. The idea of using our rich Croatian heritage had caught my eye, to revive something that has been forgotten and turn it into a souvenir of Zagreb, which, in addition to being a memory of the city (and country) visited, would also have useful value. I for one did not even know exactly how to achieve such until the inspiration suddenly came. As it happened, it was the flame of the burning candles at the city’s Stone Gate that had sparked the idea of translating ‘The Goldsmith’s Treasure’ into the English language. I thought to myself, there is

for book lovers!

Andrija Pečarić

The Goldsmith’s Treasure (Zlatarovo zlato) Avid readers should definitely get a hold of the first Croatian historical novel, written in 1871 by August Šenoa and was only recently translated into English.

It’s a tale of a prohibited love between the daughter of a goldsmith and a nobleman’s son set right here in the heart of Zagreb. The same streets, squares, churches, markets and monuments you’ve seen yourself whilst visiting our city reappear in the book. This fight for love and passion is dramatised with the addition of nobles, commoners, charlatans and murderers who attempt to divide the devotions that Dora and Pavao have for one another. The novel is the perfect memoirs of Zagreb, a great addition to your library collection or a subtle souvenir for a friend. Buy a book at: Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop, Link Gallery, Croatian Design Superstore at Franjo Tuđman Airport, Znanje Bookstore, Ljevak Bookstore, Hoću knjigu!, Tisak Media.Qwww.spiritoso.hr.

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket

no story that represents Zagreb more than this novel, and that foreigners, especially tourists visiting Zagreb, deserve to learn more about and take home with them.

ZIYP: For our international readers who are just becoming acquainted to the book ‘The Goldsmith’s Treasure’ for the first time, can you briefly tell us more about its storyline and which locations in the city are mentioned and can be visited even today?

Andrija: This is a story about forbidden love between a goldsmith’s daughter and a nobleman’s son which takes place in Zagreb’s historical streets and squares back in the sixteenth century. It is filled with love and passion, scheme and intrigue; vibrant characters juxtapose from the moral and noble to the conspirators and murderers. It portrays the way of life of nobles and citizens, their conflicts and customs of the time.

The storyline takes place in the Upper Town (better known as ‘Gradec’ back then) as well as Kaptol, the Stone Gate, Manduševac (Ban Jelačić Square), Medvedgrad ... but also the nearby town of Samobor.

ZIYP: Croatian designers have also been working on this project, therefore even lovers of design can take home a souvenir that will remind them of Zagreb?

Andrija: Tomislav-Jurica Kačunić and Ivana Vučić from Hamper Studio take credit for the graphic design and have successfully combined traditional and contemporary, decorative and minimalist, rustic and elegant elements.

The symbols which were hidden in the first letter of the name of (Au)gust Šenoa, ‘engraved in a gold pole’ on the cover of the book, discreetly discover the world of Šenoa’s ‘golden fever’ and entice the pursuit for more gold to be found in the novel itself. A clear and straightforward text font allows the user to functionally read the novel and to simultaneously parse the comments and explanations that facilitate understanding of the text as well as Latin and archaic Croatian words.

Although the novel ‘The Goldsmith’s Treasure’ is already a symbol of the city of Zagreb and its history, such directed visual communication promotes its social and cultural value, elevating it into being the souvenir of both Zagreb and Croatia as a whole.

ZIYP: Where can the English version of the book be found?

Andrija: The book is sold at around sixty stores, from bookstores in Croatia to Croatian design shops, souvenir shops, museums, hotels ... Mostly in the city centre and at the airport. A list of all stores can be found at www.facebook.com/thegoldsmithstreasure.

ZIYP: Are there any plans to translate other books by other Croatian authors into English?

Andrija: We have numerous ideas that are still just ideas and therefore I do not want to disclose them yet, but what I can proudly announce is that a picture book of ‘The Goldsmith’s Treasure’ is intended for young readers and is being prepared as we speak. For the first time, the story of the novel will be re-told for children and revived with superb illustrations by Zdenko Bašić. We believe that children will love it and that it will quickly get under their skin. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Shopping Malls A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

Fashion Boutique Dora Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs.

Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A­J

FASHION

design STORE

A shoo A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.

Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.

QD‑2, Martićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, www. ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www.borovo. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Cahun Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 75, www.cahun.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A

50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Link Gallery Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croatian designer products including lamps, unique ceramics, gifts for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly staff who are happy to tell you a little story behind each item, why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come in and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 94.

Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Love_Ana Established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 75, www.loveanadesign.com. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Jewelry

Games & Comics

Bashota Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from modern and original designs to jewellery which has been nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Sat Open 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

Carta Magica This shop specialises in games: board games, card games, trading card games, role play, fantasy and model-making.

There are also loads of accessories on sale, and there’s a large gaming zone for up to 40 people.QB‑2, Frankopan‑ ska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 99, www.cartamagica.hr.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A

Jozef Gjoni They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A­J Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 96, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A­J Otvoreni atelier Lumezi Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.

QJ‑3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Here Be Dragons This shop caters to those looking for genuine Game of Thrones, Lord of the Rings, Harry Potter and Star Wars merchandise, with the odd superhero thrown in for good measure. You are free to be photographed riding the enormous model dragon within!QC‑1, Ulica Ivana Tkalčića 34, www.herebedragons.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.

Souvenirs Cerovečki Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir for which you can be sure it was invented and produced in Croatia.QC‑1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-) 091 554 38 91. Open 10:30 19:30. Closed Sun. A Jasmina i lutkice A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, www.jasminakosanovic.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Read more reviews online: zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2018 51

Shopping Kloto Concept store with creative handmade designs.QB‑2, Ma‑ sarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, www.udrugakloto. hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.

Closed on rainy days. A

Specialty Stores Havana Cigar Shop Cigars, from Cuba, Honduras and Dominican Republic.

Smoke it up, dudes.QB‑2, Frankopanska 22, tel. (+3851) 539 04 67, www.camelot.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Saša Šekoranja Gallery Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N Staccato - Porsche Design The shop is home to sundry items which we might describe as stylish, trendy, and quirky (and all at once). In addition to Porsche Design, Staccato also carries Hugo Boss, Diplomat, and Graf von Faber-Castell, all of which are ideal for giving that little extra something to someone’s work or home office. Fountain pens, ballpoints, diaries, to name but a few.QB‑2, Masarykova 26, tel. (+385-1) 467 88 74, www.staccato.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Garderoba Concept Store Archives

Pot Holder Take Me Home is a fab shop with unique products designed and made in Croatia; beautiful, practical and the best possible things to bring back warm memories of your stay. Until now they have sold products made by other designers, but they have now launched their first product designed and made themselves in partnership with designers Nela Marušić and Željka Jordan. It’s a pot holder (the square thingy you use to take hot things out of the oven), in a scarlet colour evoking the red of Zagreb’s traditional Licitar heart decoration, featuring a print of Lepoglava bobbin lace.

Cultural heritage meets contemporary design, and the result is - a useful souvenir! QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, www. takemehome.hr.

52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Top - niche perfumery If only a scratch ‘n’ sniff review were possible. In lieu of lay language, perhaps some poetry or classical prose instead?

In business for 15 years in Croatia, and on Tomićeva for 4 years now, Top is literally you’re go-to place for the very best in global perfume lines. Nearly everything here is exclusive to Top, including JFK’s favourite perfume, Eight & Bob.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

More style for less cash Britanski trg antique market Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Bookstore Planetopija This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QA‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. July 23 - August 27 Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs.

Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn.

A­J ­6

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2018 53

Shopping Zagreb Vinyl So where are the great record-hunting cities of Europe?

We now about London, Manchester and Berlin already, but Zagreb may not immediately spring to mind as one of the prime stalking grounds for second-hand vinyl. In fact the Croatian capital is a veritable treasure trove of rare grooves, much of which workout significantly cheaper than in the second-hand shops of Western Europe.

The former Yugoslavia had a huge record industry, and Zagreb companies such as Jugoton and Suzy were at the heart of it. Labels like these unleashed an awful lot of domestic product, but also released the best of western rock and pop. As a consequence, the supply of old vinyl in Za-

greb is plentiful and varied. Pride of place goes to the local rock-pop scene of the 1980s, when post-punk and electropop ruled the roost. There is also an awful lot of ethnic music and Roma brass bands. Former Yugoslav and Italian pressings of western hits can also be found in abundance, providing rack upon rack of rarities that have not entirely been picked clean by the collectors. Whether it's a sixtiesera Elvis single in the original sleeve, or a rare slice of electro-funk from the 1980s, there’s always a surprise lurking beyond the next flick of your browsing finger.

The cult second-hand shops with well-filed stock and knowledgeable, friendly staff are relatively easy to pick out.

Nearest to the centre is Dobar Zvuk (C-3, Preradovićeva 24), with crates of LPs and CDs in a converted courtyard garage.

The other obligatory ports of call on the vinyl trail are the charmingly Tardis-like Roxy (I-3, Savska cesta 34, www. cdshop-roxy.com), the rambling jungle of black plastic that is Free Bird (I-3, Tratinska 30, www.freebird.hr), and the neat, well-labelled specialist collector’s favourite, Karma Vinyl (H3, ul. Podgorska 3, www.karmavinil.com).

The Britanski trg Sunday bric-a-brac market has a few vinyl stalls, although prices here have been notched up as a consequence of the market’s growing popularity with locals and tourists. The twice-weekly flea market at Hrelić on Zagreb’s southeastern outskirts is a better hunting ground for real bargains, but if only if you have the time and patience to sort through it.

The unsorted junk that is laid out on the ground by sellers takes an age to sift through, and you often end up buying something you don’t really want simply to justify the time you spent getting here.

The popularity of vinyl as a format is also reflected in the choice of stuff that’s available in Zagreb’s high-street record shops. Dancing Bear (B-2, Gundulićeva 7, www.dancingbear.hr), which is a pioneering record label as well as the best of the mainstream music stores, carries a particularly good range of new albums and rereleased classics on vinyl.

A lot of Croatian bands, especially the indie-oriented ones, are specifically opting to release new albums on vinyl because it is the only way of offering a collectable product that is more desirable than a simple digital download.

Indeed it would be true to say that contemporary Croatian indie albums that are not released on vinyl are not regarded as artistically significant - a strange turnaround from the download-happy world of 10 years ago. The most significant event on the vinyl hunter’s calendar is the Record and Cartoon-Strip Fair held at the Močvara club (www.mochvara.hr) every two months or so.

Dancing Bear, Photo by Bojan Haron Markičević

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Not only do the main second-hand shops mentioned above come here to flount their wares; there are also plenty zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

of stalls for private dealers who don’t actually have a shop of their own. These record fairs are a popular social event, providing fans with a chance to chat about their latest acquisitions. It’s also a dangerously tempting invitation to spend money; the longer you spend here, the more seriously you need to worry about your baggage allowance before flying home.

A good old vinyl Dancing Bear CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.

QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www. dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300kn.QA‑4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr.

Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9kn. A Karmavinil Did you grow up with a vinyl record in your hand? Remember those good old days, when all music was on vinyl? If so, then this store will revive some memories, as it is fully stocked with a lot of records (second hand, most of them original pressings) with many rarities that are hard to find anymore. Definitely worth a peek, with lots of music genres covered.QH‑3, Podgorska 3, tel. (+385-1) 363 36 85, www.karmavinil.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Dirty Old Shop The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, tshirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www. dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Free Bird We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2018 55

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www.takemehome. hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

CITY C

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Ulični OrmarQD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn.

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G.E.A. GalleryQC‑1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-) 091 554 38 91. Open 10:30 - 19:30. Closed Sun.

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Stripovi2QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 4

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Top - Niche PerfumeryQB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

5

Arrival & Getting Around Arriving By plane

Arriving By train

The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Airport, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person.

Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city.

Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83 (or *VLAK). Open 05:00 - 23:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Buy your tickets online via www.hzpp.hr/en or download for free their mobile application HŽPP. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. You can travel in a couchette and take your car or motorbike on a train as well. Bike transport is charged 15kn inside the country and 5€ for international transport. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.

Franjo Tuđman International Airport Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Zagreb)QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www.zagreb-airport.hr.

Arriving By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English.

Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 06:00 - 22:00) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/ hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića 4, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.

pinterest.com/inyourpocket 58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, zagreb.inyourpocket.com

PARK POSTOJNSKA JAMA Wonderworld does exist

A SLOVENIJA

LJUBLJANA POSTOJNA

Postojnska jama Jamska c. 30, Postojna www.postojnska-jama.eu

Arrival & Getting Around

Maksimir Park, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

tourist information Tourist Information Centre Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotrščak Tower.

QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www.infozagreb.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

exchange office In Kapital In Kapital is a company that deals with financial affairs guaranteeing top quality services. They offer customers a secure, convenient and fast service in purchasing and selling currencies. A chain of their exchange offices can be found around attractive locations throughout Zagreb.QC‑2, Gajeva ulica 1 (Dubrovnik Hotel), www.inkapital.hr. Also at C-1, Tkalčićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 378 99 00. C-2, Cvjetni Shopping Cen‑ tre, Trg Petra Preradovića 6 (floor -1), tel. (+385-1) 483 70 00. J 60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn.

There is also a 4kn ticket valid for short rides up to 30 minutes. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www. zet.hr.Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www.zet.hr.

The Sljeme bus line The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac stop and goes to the Tomislavov dom’s stop, eight times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

Biking Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike. hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

Parking Street parking/SMS Parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1 (red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office. Changes in parking prices can occur during the summer period.

eco dry cleaning Viva ecological dry cleaning Whether you’re passing through town or here for a longer stay, Viva dry-cleaning has everything you need in terms of giving your clothes (of all materials and fabric) a whole new refresher, but they don’t stop there, Viva also offers carpet to curtain cleaning and more. With two office located around Zagreb, be sure to catch one on your side of town, simply visit their web. Also at M-1/2, Poljanice 2, Dubrava, tel. (+385-1) 292 39 09. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.QK‑3, Radnička cesta 80, Zagrebtower, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 11, www.kemijska-viva.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2018 61

Arrival & Getting Around

Swanky Monkey Garden Archives

Taxis Eko taxi As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free and easy to use application which is available on IOS and Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14, www.ekotaxi.hr. A Radio taksi Zagreb Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb. hr.

62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Taxi Cammeo These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 6kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www. taxi-cammeo.hr. A

Berlitz Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs.QC‑2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, www.berlitz.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Uspinjača / Funicular

Autobusni terminal / BUS terminal

Početno - krajnje stajalište Stajalište u oba smjera Stajalište u smjeru vožnje Noćne linije / night routes

Dnevne linije / daily routes ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ 1 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE 2 3 LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC 4 5 PREČKO - DUBRAVA 6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC 7 8 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ 11 ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC 12 LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA 13 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG 14 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE 17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ Noćne linije/night routes N 31 ČRNOMEREC - SAVSKI MOST N 32 PREČKO - BORONGAJ N 33 DOLJE - SAVIŠĆE N 34 LJUBLJANICA - DUBEC

TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE / TRAM ROUTES

DUBEC

LINIJE 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM

ULICA DUBRAVA

. a a ra IV čk a sk vo ka ce in nsk ve ja ni eč ko a ja in lja le an riž ul A Po D G Č 34 N 34 4 4 11 11 7 7

ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

ŽITNJAK 13 Elka

2 33 3 SAVIŠĆE N

2 33 3

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Čavićeva

Getaldićeva

BORONGAJ

a e a tic dsk a a lov ve ra čic a ev ka ičk ze e S ićg nš žić ips dn ein nj an re Dr Ol Ra H Do Iv Fe

Autobusni kolodvor

Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

1 17 9 32

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12 Lj

DUBRAVA

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Tržnica Kvatrić

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MAKSIMIRSKA

12 34 4 11 7 5

MREŽA TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA/ REGULAR TRAM SERVICES G TR OV ac a IK va čk va nov e lo ice va a ić nd vn AT ko aš rd KV Ho Ra M Jo Bu N ER

Slavonska

2 31 8 6 7 5

Branimirova tržnica

Sheraton

6 8 31 2

1 17 9 32 13

Trg žrtava fašizma

UL. KNEZA BRANIMIRA

9 13

ZA NE VA . K LA UL MIS

12 34 4 11

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KVATERNIKOV TRG 13 7 5

Trg hrvatskih velikana 32 17 1

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AVENIJA DUBROVNIK

SAVSKI MOST

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ULICA GRADA VUKOVARA

Prisavlje

Vjesnik

34 13 6 4 31 2 33 9

34 8 4 33

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Draškovićeva

Grškovićeva

Belostenčeva

Gupčeva zvijezda

Jandrićeva Radićevo šetalište

Gračanske stube

Glavni Branimirova kolodvor

a išn čil k bi eu eja Vr Sv al

Studentski centar

MIHANOVIĆEVA

va ki iko nič dn ota rt B v Vo

Učiteljski fakultet

4 7 31 N

17 5 14 32 4

KAPTOL

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića

Vodnikova

1713 14 32 4 33

32 5 17 14 7 31

U

IN SP

JA

A Č

JANDRIĆEVA

15 14 8

MIHALJEVAC

Gračani Gračanski Mihaljevac

TRG 13 6 31 34 MAŽURANIĆA Klinika

31 6 11 1 34 12 17 13 14 32

3 1713 14 32 4 33

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Sl M Pe Ru Ja S S H K "S

LJUBLJANICA

N 34 12 9 3

31 6 11 2

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RELJKOVIĆEVA

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ZAPADNI 1 KOLODVOR

ČRNOMEREC

N 31 6 11 2

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Služba komunikacija i marketinga

SAVSKA

1533

DRAŠKOVIĆEVA

Podrška korisnicima 072 500 400 www.zet.hr e-mail: javnost@zet.hr

FRANKOPANSKA

SAVSKA

ŠUBIĆEVA

DOLJE

AVENIJA M. DRŽIĆA

AVENIJA MARINA DRŽIĆA

15 33 N

IĆA

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ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ

Transport Map

Summer 2018 63

Zagreb Basics Customs

Toilets

There are no custom limits between member states of the EU or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings.

In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

Visas All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you're a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff's efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn't it?

64 Zagreb In Your Pocket

national holidays 2018 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 1 Easter April 2 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 31 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street register

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1

Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4

Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2

Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

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