Zagreb In Your Pocket City Guide No96

Maps

Events

Restaurants

CafĂŠs

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Zagreb Summer 2019

Zoom into Zagreb Open air cultural and social pop up festivities

N°96 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Top Summer Events

6

Essential guide to the Summer events

Restaurants

19 25

35

Shopping 48 Arrival & Getting Around

60

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Nightlife 26 Are you ready to party?

Discover what we‘ve uncovered

Croatia Love Affair

Priceless places and buys

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Sightseeing

33

As easy as ABC

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Coffee & Cakes

Fairytale Zagorje Beautiful countryside

28

Maps Street Register City Centre Map City Map

63 64-65 66

Trokut - Vernissage à la Bel Village Trokut in Mlinovi - A unique pop-up exhibition of a cult artist at the Bel Village, Mlinovi, until September 1st . Vladimir Dodig Trokut was an artist, collector, art historian, anthropologist, theoretician, and alchemist. His life and the vision that he had were in every sense of the word, unique to say the least. The exhibition pays tribute to his works and if you would like to see one of Zagreb’s most unique characters, books in advance at info@belvillage.hr

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Summer 2019 3

Foreword Whether you’re here for a day or two or more, you’ll have plenty of time to explore! Our IYP guide is the perfect read and review booklet to help you get around and answer some of those queries any tourist may have. To cut it short, our city is vibrant all year round and even though temperatures can get very hot, it’s in the evenings when the city truly becomes alive. Cafes, restaurants and squares are jam packed as people tend to cool off. Days are best spent in city museums and galleries, a visit to the Upper Town and some of the major city landmarks. Look for an abundant amount of concerts, festivals and exhibitions over these 3 months with all info in our guide. All in all, we wish you a pleasant and wonderful stay in our lovely city!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, John William Bills Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Bojan Haron Markičević Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Zagreb Design Week Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

What’s going on? facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Maps

Events

Restaurant

s

Cafés

Zagreb

Cover story

Nightlife

Sightseein

g

Shopping

Summer 2019

Zoom into Zagreb

“This summer all you need to do is bring a blanket, throw on the sunglasses and enjoy in the city parks in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere.

Open air cul social pop up tural and festivities

N°96 - complime ntary copy zagreb.in yourpock et.com

About IYP DUTCH CARIBBEAN ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC

AUSTRIA HUNGARY ROMANIA SLOVENIA CROATIA ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

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4 Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world’s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend.

The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that‘s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Top Summer Events

Skunk Anansie Archives

Top Summer Events Zippy Zagreb - A summer destination of cultural and social happenings 6 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Top Summer Events 11.11. 2018 - 15.09. 2019 » 1918 - A Turning Point for Croatia Exactly 100 years ago to the day of this exhibition opening, WW1 ended. This was a crucial period in Croatian history as it terminated relations with the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and joined a new state, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. History buffs get to explore and learn of the entire political, social and economic changes through to mid-1919; from life on the battlefield and the aftermath of the war through to becoming a member of a new kingdom. It’s a historian’s paradise!QB‑1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr/en.

22.04 - 18.10 » The Changing of the Guard A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square or Kaptol to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.QVarious city centre locations, www.kravatpukovnija.com. Every Saturday & Sunday.

27.04 - 06.10 » Zagreb Time Machine Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some tradi-

tional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.Q Various city centre locations, www.infozagreb.hr.

30.05 - 30.09 » Strossmartre Summer on Stross Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

AUGUST » The Little Picnic This summer, Zagreb’s Upper Town will once again hold one of the city’s most charming events, the Little Picnic! Every August, Vranicanijeva poljana turns into a sweet surrender and a wonderful gastro-oasis amidst hot summer days. With romantic décor, cute stands and stalls of homemade organic foods and drinks on offer, all you need to do is bring a blanket, throw on the sunglasses and enjoy the beautiful views of the city in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. It’s a true picnic so BYO blanket!QB‑1, Vranicanijeva poljana.

Photo by Roko Bahat, The Little Picnic Archives

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Summer 2019 7

Top Summer Events

Festival Opening Ceremony, Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives

SUMMER » Tuškanac Summer Stage Fans of film will once again be able to enjoy a handful of quality movie events and festivals from June to early September at the popular Tuškanac Summer Stage. ‘Snap, camera and action’ as the schedule includes several programs: The First Row to the Sea of Films, Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival, European Film Review and Zagreb Film Festival review. For more details, visit the Tuškanac Summer Stage Facebook page.QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau, Tuškanac 1, www.ljepotu.hr.

01.06 - 15.09 » SintArt 11 - Kristian Kožul, Sisyphus exalted. Exercising repetitions Located in the former workstation of the artist Vjenceslav Richter’s family home, Kožul finds a bridge between Richter and himself as they are of two completely different artistic sensitivities. The common link between them is the repetition of elements as a method of creating an artwork whether it is a circle, a square or a line in 2D or 3D manifestations.The exhibition is heavily influenced by Richter as Kožul experiments in presenting hybrid landscapes shaped by repetitive methods. QH-2, The Richter Col‑ lection, Vrhovec 38, www.msu.hr.

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06.09 - 16.09 » Dubrovnik Summer Festival in Zagreb On the occasion of its seventieth anniversary edition, one of Croatia’s most prominent festivals, the ‘Dubrovnik Summer Festival’ comes to Zagreb in September. Many home based artists, musicians and photographers partake in organising the event in Dubrovnik, and now they’re doing ‘the switch’ to celebrate the collaboration between Zagreb’s artists and the festival. This pop-up version will present a varied selection of the festival’s best theatre and music productions. Qwww. dubrovnik-festival.hr.

04.06 - 15.11 » One Hundred Items for One Hundred Years – The Treasure of the Ethnographic Museum On the occasion of celebrating one hundred years since its founding, the Ethnographic Museumis launching a special exhibition whereby one hundred selected items from the museum’s rich collection tell one hundred stories about the amazing heritage and roots of our culture in a fun and interesting way. Visitors discover those stories interactively through audio books, multimedia, souvenirs, jewellery, scrap books and field recordings of rural everyday life a century ago.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

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Summer 2019 9

Top Summer Events 08.06 - 13.07 » Summer at the MSU For six consecutive summers, every Saturday the Museum of Contemporary Arts brings a perfect blend of top artistic content under the principle ‘5 in 1’ – or better said ‘music, film, exhibitions, performances and book readings’. The museum’s roof, garage and the plateau at the slope of the museum become concert venues and this year there will be six concerts held by the best bands of the region. Other events include a unique multimedia program and performances by various artists, book readings by renowned authors, two exhibitions and screenings of the movies from the museum’s Best of Metropolis cinema season. QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

10.06 - 31.08 » Cycle of Multiple Senses Exhibitions ‘Untouched Nature’ - The Island of Rava Zagreb’s Typhlological Museum is launching a cycle of exhibitionswith a four-year theme called ‘Untouched Nature’ and the first exhibition is entitled ‘The Island of Rava’. This small island off the Zadar archipelago with a surface of only 3.63 km² and its ethnography (i.e. customs, traditions etc.) will stimulate our five senses in a different and comprehensive way, with a special adaptation for persons with disabilities. The exhibited items were used by the local population during the period between WWI and the 1960s.

QD‑3, Typhlological Museum, Draškovićeva 80/II, www. tifloloskimuzej.hr.

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Wuper Kec, Photo by Domagoj Blažević, Art Park ArchivesArchives

14.06 - 21.07 » Art Park The once-neglected Ribnjak Park in Tomićeva Street is transformed into a new Zagreb city oasis which during the summer months turns into a small art gallery type of walkway with music, film and sports projects presented. The park is decorated to make for a pleasant outdoor stay and includes pingpong, hammock swings to watch movies, quizzes, yoga,workshops, spontaneous concerts and DJ sessions. Good vibes and great fun every day in the heart of the city! QD-1, Ribnjak Park, ww.artparkzagreb.com.

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Top Summer Events Heimo Zobernig Museum of Contemporary Art Zagreb

Avenija Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb 2/7 — 18/8/2019

Republic of Croatia Ministry of Culture Republika Hrvatska Ministarstvo kulture

Oglas 02 Heimo Zobernic.indd 1

18.06 - 18.08 » Mirjana Vodopija The Wandering Landscape See how multimedia artist Mirjana Vodopija examines the experience of space - indicating a sense of freedom in open spaces, and the protection and safety one finds in enclosed spaces. The exhibition consists of five thematic parts with a total of 30 works of vast landscapes, from surreal infinite plains and crouched mountains to dream-like cliffs and lakes. QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Ave‑ nija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

28.06 - 14.07 » A Sea of Books This wonderful event brings a beach to us; with real sand, deck chairs and cocktails named after top titles from the best seller book list, you’ll think you’re almost down the coast. Every day, from 10:00 to 23:00, one can read over 200 top titles placed in the baskets on the beach or purchase them at the sales booth, all with the one goal and that is to encourage reading and spark a passion for books!QC‑2/3, Zrinjevac Park, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog.

02.07 - 18.08 » Heimo Zobernig Austria’s contemporary artist Heimo Zobering encompasses a series of spatial interventions and installations through performance, film, sculpture and painting. He is known for the monochrome ideal whereby a room or stage is filled with composites of triangles or networks, based on the inheritance of constructivism, colour theory and geometric abstraction with the use of sculptures, vidfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

28.5.2019. 15:54:22

eos, and room installations that are both decorative and functional to the viewer.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑ seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

03.07 20:00 » Whitesnake One of the greatest hard-rock bands of all time with hits such as ‘Here I Go Again’ and ‘Is This Love’, are performing at Zagreb’s Šalata Stadium as part of their ‘Flesh& Blood’ world tour. Led by legendary frontman David Coverdale, Whitesnake will blast the stage as they pelt out hit after hit under the starry Zagreb skies this July. Rock on!QD-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, 216 - 351kn.

Photo by Buga Cvjetanovic, MSF Archives

Summer 2019 11

Top Summer Events

Josipa Lisac Archives

06.07 21:00 » Josipa Lisac Croatia’s biggest music artist, the great Josipa Lisac will hold her very first solo concert at the Šalata Stadium in Zagreb. Under the stars, on this occasion the venue will be converted into a large open-air theatre with exclusive seating and Josipa will lead her audience through an amazing catalogue of songs from her 50 year long career. This will be a truly unique occasion since this will be her first solo concert after ten years – the wait is finally over!QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, 135 - 342kn.

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12.07 - 21.07 » The Courtyards Take a peek behind the facade of the Palaces of the Upper Town and enter a world of Zagreb’s courtyards. Experience a part of the city that you have never experienced with citizens and government institutions proudly flaunting their ‘yards’ to the general public. Stories of legends will be retold, unravelling the past through these green oases.

QB/C‑1, Gornji grad (Upper Town), www.dvorista.in.

17.07 - 21.07 » The 53rd International Folklore Festival One of Zagreb’s mega cultural manifestations returns and the main focus of this year’s festival will be on the diverse folkloric heritage of the Žumberak and Gorski kotar areas which connect the mainland with the coastline regions of Kvarner, Hrvatsko primorje, Rijeka and Istria. Do expect various exhibitions and workshops with representatives of national minorities and a total of 30 groups will perform, along with fifteen ensembles representing the heritage of other nations and cultures. It’s a folklore feast!QVarious city locations, www.msf.hr.

27.07 21:00 » Skunk Anansie - 25LIVE@25 The great British rock band and darlings of the Croatian audience, Skunk Anansie will once again perform in Zagreb as part of their ‘25Live@ 25’ world tour, celebrating 25 years since their powerful debut single Selling Jesus.

Being undoubtedly one of the best live bands of the last

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Top Summer Events

quarter of a century, Skunk Anansie have always had fantastic reception and inextricable relationship with the local Zagreb audience, so make sure to catch them at their concert in the Croatian capital this summer as it will surely be a blast!QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, 198 - 333kn.

SEPTEMBER » Zagreb Burger Festival A burger is a clear favourite too many people and in recent years has become part of the gourmet scene with world famous chefs also reaching for it. Nowadays, it has become a quality meal, an unavoidable part of street food with different variations and diverse creative variants that have overwhelmed the entire world. Make sure to pop into our burger realm - to try unusual yet creative burgers, to taste great drinks and to dance the night away during the evening concerts.QC‑3, Strossmayerov trg.

16.09 20:00 » Michael Bublé Canada’s modern day version of America’s Frank Sinatra is finally coming to Zagreb as part of his fourth big world tour. In his own words, this is his best album up to date, with songs which represent the essence of him; channelling love, romance, laughter and the healing power of music. And on a side note, Michael Bublé’s paternal grandfather was Croatian which will surely make the concert feel even more special, not just for him but for the Croatian audience as well.Q H-5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, 450 - 1490kn. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

09.10 20:00 » Arturo Sandoval & the Croatian Radio and Television Jazz Orchestra The legendary Cuban-American jazz trumpeter, pianist and composer, Arturo Sandoval comes to town. With ten Grammy Awards, six Billboard Awards and one Emmy Award under his belt, it is no wonder that in 2013 he received the Presidential Medal of Freedom from former President Barrack Obama who praised him for being one of the best musicians in history.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, 200 - 280kn, www. lisinski.hr.

Michael Bublé, Cover Retouch, Star produkcija Archives

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Top Summer Events Three Contemporary Atrtists Contemporary art in Croatia is varied, challenging, and rests on deep avant-garde foundations. Here are three artists who are particularly visible in 2019 and whose work can be seen in major museum collections.

Vlado Martek One of the most mercurial and enigmatic figures in Croatian art, Martek (born 1951) is also one of the most iconic.

He first started exhibiting in the 1970s, and ha exerted a powerful yet discreet influence over the art world ever since. Martekhas frequently used irony and mischief as a way of critically addressing the world around him, drawing attention to the absurdities of society through simple combinations of words and pictures. Often thought of as a visual poet, Martek was a literature graduate rather than a product of the art academy, and even today has a full-time job as a librarian. Most of is works involve written text – whether a fragment of poetry or a pithy saying.

Many of the latter incorporate slogans and exhortations into pictures that look like childlike attempts to draw advertising billboards or propaganda posters. In the Seventies he was a member of the legendary Group of Six (Martek, MlaenStilinović, Sven Stilinović, FedorVučemilović, Boris Demur and ŽeljkoJerman) who were almost the guerilla artists of their day, exhibiting work in the streets, organizing public happenings, and producing works with the most simple of tools – a piece of paper and a crayon was more than enough. Martekhas always been heavily influenced by the traditional 20th-century avant-garde: his work ČitajteMaljeviča (Read Malevich) is a reference to the famous Russian abstract painter of black squares and

Kristian Kožul, MSU Archives

Vlado Martek, What is art, MMSU Archives

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Interijer u procjepu, Mirjana Vodopija, MSU Archives

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Top Summer Events

Mirjana Vodopija

Lutajući krajolik | The Wandering Landscape

Museum of Contemporary Art Zagreb 18/6 — 18/8/2019

Republic of Croatia Ministry of Culture Republika Hrvatska Ministarstvo kulture

red circles. Many Martek works deconstruct the world of Oglas 02 Mirjana Vodopija.indd 1 graphic design, logos, commercial advertising and political messaging – one of the most famous examples is a map of the United States painted red and with the word ‘Balkan’ scrawled across it. The endlessly mercurial Martek is one of the most collectable Croatian artists in interna-

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tional circles. Summer 2019 sees a large retrospective of 29.5.2019. 13:07:45 his work just an hour or so’s drive from Zagreb at Rijeka’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMSU; www. mmsu.hr) Mirjana Vodopija Vodopija has been one of the most active and widely exhibited Croatian artists since graduating from Zagreb’s Academy of Fine Arts in 1987. She is also one of the most versatile, embracing painting, graphic art, installation, sound art and photography – a true multimedia artist who really is proficient in all media, and who frequently embraces the challenge of how to creatively mash them up. Her works reveal several enduring obsessions;movement, stillness, the natural environment and the natural rhythms of human life. Her 2013 video work Possibility was about walking off into a snowy landscape with no clear destination; while the 2017 installation Transition involved a toy car moving along a bendylooking plank of wood between wall-mounted potted plants. Arguably her most talked-about show was 2013’s /Non-returnable/ in the HDLU, involving films of leaves, bits of paper and feathers from a torn pillow being picked up by the wind and re-deposited in a series of different patterns. Her exhibition this summer in Zagreb’sMuseum of Contemporary Art (www.msu.hr) is entitledWandering Landscape (Lutajućikrajolik) and presents a mixture of new and existing works examining the experience of space as something both liberating and confining. Images of plains, mountains and lakes are juxtaposed with Summer 2019 15

Top Summer Events

Kristian Kožul, MSU Archives

those of building interiors in an attempt to question our perceptions of freedom and its limits.These surreal superimpositions are in part based on Vodopija’s childhood, and the fantastical stories told by her grandmother.

Kristian Kožul There’s something distinctly unsettling about KristianKožul. His latest show at Zagreb’s Richter Pavilion (enigmatically entitled Sisyphus Exalted: Exercising Repetitions) looks likea cross between an operating theatre and an exercise gym. Incorporating metal, rubber and plastic, the ensemble of abstract sculptural forms seems to include bits of machinery and bits of human bodies,

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with no clear lines as to where the organic ends and the mechanical begins.

Born in 1975 and educated in the academies of Zagreb and Düsseldorf, Kožul’s early works were full of glitz and glam, his sculptural objects surfaced with shiny spangles, mirrors and beads. This dazzling flash of kitsch came with a disturbing undertow: what looked like a decorative take on folk art turned out to be a military helmet, or a human skull. If the young Kožul’s work was loud and impossible to ignore, it was partly because it incorporated the high production values and showmanship of western art.

Kožul’s work also shows the tireless attention to detail of the obsessive: for the 2012 exhibition Misinterpretations Kožulspent weeks constructing complex installations in his flat in southern Zagreb, rendering it totally uninhabitable in the process.He then photographed the results to create a series of enigmatic tableaux, illustrating the religious, political and consumerist obsessions of our times.

After a relatively quiet period Kožul has returned to his horror-noir this-is-not-what-it-seems, best. His big 2018 show Forensic Folklore: The Archipelago created a highly decorative but also highly disconcerting garden of body parts and strange machines; something of a foretaste of this summer’s exhibition at the Richter Pavilion. What does it all add up to, you may ask? A deliciously dark and critical look at Croatia, the universe, and everything about the epoch in which we currently live.

By Jonathan Bousfield

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Top Summer Events

Aleksandar Srnec

A Taste of Socialist Zagreb

“machines for living” which should make life pleasant for their residents and transcend class divides.

It’s natural for a first-time visitor to Zagreb to wonder “what was it like here under communism?” There are few visible traces of that time in the city, one reason being the gentler mode of socialism that Croatia, as part of Yugoslavia, experienced compared to its neighbours.

One example of this style is the block that straddles numbers 35 and 35a on Zagreb’s Avenija Vukovar. It was designed in the mid-1950s by Drago Galić, who was inspired

by Le Corbusier’s Unité d'Habitation modernist residence in Marseille. The residents in Vukovarska live in what experts claim is one of the most human-friendly buildings around.

It has duplex flats and studios for singles in the attic, great views, a caretaker and a communal laundry.

Much of Vukovarska dates from the post-war period when massive numbers of migrants flocked to the city. Also see: the City Hall; the building where a branch of Raiffeisenbank is now housed; the People’s Open University and the apartment block on the corner of Držićeva whose flats boast a better design than many built today.

Whether in Zagreb or Moscow, Budapest or Prague, however tough the face of totalitarianism may have been, you’ll find people, young and old, who feel sad at the loss of some things from those days. For many, life was more secure and more innocent than it is today. Though some freedoms were curtailed and many consumer goods weren’t available, people had more time for each other and for fun.

We’ve put together this quick guide to ​IZagreb’s socialist past to give you a taste of what life was like under that doughty leader of the non-aligned world, Marshal Josip Broz Tito.

Architecture To mention the words “socialism” and “architecture” in the same sentence is to conjure up visions of dreary avenues of concrete blocks. However, socialism spawned quite a few buildings which are admired by their residents and the cognoscenti alike.

In post-war Zagreb architects often favoured designs inspired by the “father of modern architecture”, CharlesÉdouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier. Appalled by the poverty he saw in Paris in the 1920s, this famous utopian designed facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Drago Galić was the protégé of another well-known Croatian architect, Drago Ibler, who is responsible for “the Wooden Skyscraper”. You’ll see it on Iblerov trg: a low-rise section with business premises with an eight-floor residential block on one side. Its innovative design makes it one of Zagreb’s most famous buildings of the era. Residents can enjoy a terrace with a wooden pergola covering the whole of the top of the block.

Nearby, in Laginjina ulica, is a building famous for its harmonious incorporation into the city. Colourful panels and sliding sunscreens cheer up the south side of the building.

However, as with all of these building, the condition isn’t great: let’s hope the city council finds a bit of cash to help spruce up these icons of the Modern age.

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Top Summer Events For a little retro “commie”-chic seek out the building of the erstwhile Central Committee of the Union of Communists of Croatia – known as the “kockica”, or “cube”. Designed by Ivo Vitić, you’ll find it on the banks of the Sava at Prisavlje 14.

Today it houses a brace of government ministries.

Novi Zagreb is another part of town defined by the great immigration of the post-war period. One of its famous buildings is “Super Andrija” after the hero of a hit song from the 1960s. As the writer of one forum post puts it, “it’s a socialist mammoth… ugly as the plague”. But all would agree, though big and ugly, it is very well built.

Urban legend has it that if an atom bomb fell on Zagreb, Super Andrija would be the last thing left standing. Behind it is a large park called “Park mladenaca” or “The Bride and Groom’s Park”, since couples would plant trees there when they got married.

Aleksandar Srnec Bookmark, Picelj - Kozaric Picelj Martic, Stock market Bernardo Bernardi

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Art and Design The 1950s, a time of great demographic and social change, gave birth to some dazzling work in the art world. Yugoslavia quickly shook off the socialist realist work advocated by more hardline regimes, and ground-breaking modern art took root.

EXAT 51 was a group founded in 1951, mostly by painters and architects who advocated experimentation and the synthesis of all art forms, aiming at full social engagement. They were followed by the New Tendencies movement, who in the 1960s explored computer art and cybernetics. Also in the 1960s, the Gorgona group was pushing the boundaries of radical expression. You can learn more about all these and more in Zagreb’s excellent Museum of Contemporary Art. The trend towards multidisciplinary work led to great industrial design, as well as architecture. Two of the founding members of EXAT 51, Bernardo Bernardi (1921-1985) and Vjencesalv Richter (1917-2002), were adept in graphic art, architecture, interior and industrial design. Both designed some wonderful furniture; sadly, very few examples survive. You can see a chair by Bernardi at the People’s Open University on Avenija Vukovar; while one chair by Richter is kept at the Museum of Arts and Crafts.

You can also visit the villa that Richter designed, lived and worked in with his wife Nada at Vrhovec 38.

Music At the end of the 1970s the Yugoslav New Wave was born, considered by many the golden age of music in these lands. The subversive, punky movement still has a large and devoted following.

The authorities frowned on the “Novi val”, but tolerated it with occasional interventions by the censor - maybe why the lyrics are so smart and relevant.

The best New Wave bands include: Azra, Film and Haustor from Zagreb; Električni orgazam, Idoli and Šarlo Akrobata from Belgrade, and Pankrti from Ljubljana. The compilation Novi Punk Val showcases Croatian and Slovenian bands, and Paket aranžman Serbian bands. Or try the films Dečko koji obečava (“The Promising Boy”) or Sretno dijete (“Happy Child”) for a picture zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

Restaurants All those who favor iće & piće have the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants and bistros

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Summer 2019 19

Restaurants Towards the end of July and throughout August some restaurants could be closed due to a collective company holiday policy. Therefore, do check their working hours online before heading out.

Agava Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediterranean as well as Croatian traditional dishes with a twist, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. Huge windows give you a chance to enjoy people-watching on Zagreb’s busiest pedestrian street.QC‑2, Tkal‑ čićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, www.restaurant-agava. hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (77 - 299kn). A­G­B­J­W American Steak & Grill House Steaks, be they New York, Porterhouse, t-bone, you name it, we’ve got it! At this restaurant, chefs trained specifically for American barbecue cuisine will prepare distinctive American steaks on special grill plates according to special recipes. Along with classic American dishes based on meat, you can choose between a wide range of starters and sides in typically American style, such as baked potatoes, corn and fried onions, as well as many other delicious, typical dishes like shrimp or lobster, which always lend richness to the flavours. You just have to try our latest offer, hot wings with potato strings and red wine, all for just 55kn.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-1) 481 86 13, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 327kn). A­P­G­X­B­W

Duknovićeva 4, Maksimir... Welcome!

Od sada i na lokaciji: Ede Murtića 11, (Bundek centar)

20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zinfandel’s, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

Asia Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:30-23:00. (29 - 125kn). A­P­G­W Bistro RougeMarin Looking for a suave casual dining place where you get value for your plate size, look no further. This Bistro has a great combo of foods on the menu where they pride themselves on the ingredients used. Monthly menus change adding variety to regulars with choices such as steaks, ribs, pastas and soups. A bronzed burger menu and wok dishes are always highly sort.QK‑4, Frana Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (56 - 180kn).

A­G­B­6­W Carpaccio Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center.

From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00-22:30; clo‑ sed Sun. (75 - 180kn). A­P­G­B­J­W Curry Bowl So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city. And that’s the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dolac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kotthu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’! QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www.srilankancurrybowl.com/. Open 11:0023:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (48-78kn). A­B­S­J­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

NAV Restaurant Archives

Didov san Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend Didova tava, a traditional veal and vegetables dish prepared in pan. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QC‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.konoba-didovsan. com. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. (45 - 130kn).

A­P­G­S­L­W El Toro Restaurant & Bar As you might expect from the name, this place is themed around good steaks and Latin American cuisine – however these are just the starting blocks for chef Mario Mihelj’s imaginative way with the pots and pans. The aged T-bones and rib-eyes are what many people come for although there’s plenty more to choose from, including gourmet tacos and a couple of variations on ceviche (a spicy citrus raw-fish dish from Peru). Seafood is a bit more adventurous than in traditional Croatian QJ‑3, Ul. fra Filipa Grabovca 1, tel. (+385-) 099 613 2926, www.eltoro.hr. Open 11:0024:00; closed Sun. (80-200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W Duksa It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”).

Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito!QK‑2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr.

Open 09:00-23:00. (49 - 64kn). A­P­G­B­S­6­W Ginger Sushi A quick and unfussy sushi joint offering excellent Japanese fare in chic but functional surroundings, this is one of your best bets for a quality meal on the move. Popular orders include an exemplary miso soup, and a wide choice of 10- to 18-piece sushi and tempura sets. Ginger Sushi’s position on busy downtown Masarykova makes it a great place to plant yourself on a stool by the window ledge and watch the world pass by.QB‑2, Masarykova 21, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 86, www.gingersushi.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. (30 - 83kn). A­G­B­S­J­W Green Point Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot.QC‑2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67, www.green-point.hr/en/. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Sun. (12 - 40kn). A­G­J­W Summer 2019 21

Restaurants Mio Corazon There’s genuine Spanish know-how behind this small eatery, and it shows in the range of tapas on offer. Pršut, fish, olives, the toppings are ones you’ll recognise, but perhaps will not have tasted quite like this. It’s difficult to pick a favourite, but if pushed we’d recommend you try the olive pesto tapas; the flavour just explodes in your mouth.

QC‑2, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-) 091 621 77 63. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. (8 - 150kn).

N­X­B­J Namaste Zagreb’s newest Indian restaurant is a large contemporary space and the menu is a fun and creative blend of traditional and modern dishes. Vegan food and a children’s menu are available, and everything is accompanied by colour and smiles aplenty.QH‑4, Selska cesta 217, tel. (+3851) 626 44 58, www.namastezagreb.com. Open 12:0023:00; Mon 14:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. (60 - 85kn).

A­P­L­W

Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+3851) 553 10 14. Open 12:30-23:00; closed Sun. (75 - 145kn).

A­P­G­B­W Le Bistro Archives

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Le Bistro A cute glass box attached to the northwestern side of the Esplanade hotel, Le Bistro has for years enjoyed a unique reputation as one of the best places in Zagreb for a classy business lunch. Repositioned with new flair by head chef Ana Grgić, it’s now more popular than ever. Long-time Bistro stalwarts like Wiener Schnitzel and local cult dish Štrukli (delicious doughy parcels stuffed with salty white cheese) are still on the menu, but there’s a lot of new, adventurous and seasonally-themed dishes to choose from; the risottos in particular come highly recommended.QC‑4, Miha‑ novićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 11, www.lebistro. hr. Open 09:00-23:00. (120 - 210kn).

A­P­G­T­B­S­W

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

NAV Restaurant One of Croatia’s finest chefs has opened the doors to his new restaurant where traditional Croatian cuisine is fused with a strong eastern influence. Chef Tvtrko Šakota bases his menu on the freshest of ingredients which keeps things imaginative. Its fine dining with the slow food style where one can really settle and indulge in the creative dishes amidst a great wine selection. QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-1) 202 99 61. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (65 - 195kn). A­P­W Noel A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 4, 6, and 9 course tasting menus so that you can sample as much as possible. You can also book a special table where you’ll get more time with Goran Kočiš, Noel’s award winning head chef.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97, www.noel.hr. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. (150-200kn). A­P­G­T­S­J­W­K Papa’s This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.

QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas. hr. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-23:30; Sun 12:3022:00. (37 - 54kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W Pod Zidom Bistro & Wine Bar Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a cozy terraced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle and bustle of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Croatian specialities.QC‑2, Pod zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (80 - 140kn). B­E Royal India The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine where the scent of incense greets you right at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes.

Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Tkal‑ čićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65. Open 11:30-22:45. (60 - 100kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­V­J­W­K Summer 2019 23

Restaurants Seafood pho, Takenoko, Photo by Bojan Zibar

Štrukle, Vinodol Archives

Takenoko Sushi Bar Having blazed a trail for Japanese food in Zagreb and carved an enviable niche for creative Asian-European fusion, Takenoko remains the place to go for fine dining with far-eastern flair. Their move from the upper reaches of Tkalčićeva to new premises in the heart of town has if anything confirmed their preeminence. The deftly designed interior of dark greys and greens oozes class; while there’s a superb range of sushi and a well-balanced choice of globally-inspired mains. Among the desserts, the green tea ice cream is worth singling out.QB‑2, Masarykova 22, tel. (+385-1) 646 33 85, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-17:00. (80 - 300kn). A­P­G­W Time Restaurant & Bar Time is Asian-inspired fusion restaurant that is currently growing in reputation and popularity. Fashionably dark from the outside it’s actually rather suave and svelte inside, with low-key lighting and colourfully back-illuminated rows of spirit bottles ranged above a gleaming bar.

Particular stand-outs include Time’s additive-free fresh juices and lemonades, a big range of gins, Croatian rakijas from the Aura stable, and a fine cocktail menu. The restaurant menu runs from delectable sushi to rib-eye steaks and well-spiced curries. Reservations are advisable for the restaurant; and the bar can be difficult to get into at weekends unless you’ve reserved a table. QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www.timerestaurant.hr. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. (90 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­ B­J­W­K 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Vinodol A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family celebrations. Given its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese. Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring and summer – you may need to reserve. QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/ (+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 11:3023:30. (80 - 185kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W Zinfandel’s If you’re in search of somewhere special to eat out, then this restaurant, nestled inside Zagreb’s Esplanade Hotel should be near the top of your list. Such beautiful décor and remarkably quiet despite the hotel being adjacent to the city’s main train line. Here you can be assured of excellent food and staff all too willing to offer advice as to what to order. QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Za‑ greb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44, www.zinfandels. hr. Open 06:00-23:00; Sun 06:30-23:00. (155 - 410kn).

A­P­G­B­W

Oleander terrace grill, Zinfandel’s, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:0016:00; Sun 09:00-14:00. N­P­G­J­W

Oleander terrace, Zinfandel’s Archives

Towards the end of July and throughout August some cafes could be closed due to a collective company holiday policy.

Therefore, do check their working hours online before heading out.

Amélie A favourite cake shop among locals and visitors, Amélie has an irresistible selection of ices and a lovely shady terrace on which to linger. Only natural ingredients are used, favouring the fruit’s natural sweetness or honey over sugar. Refined, intense and perfectly delicious.QD‑2, Vlaška ulica 6, www.slasticeamelie.com/. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. P­B­J­W A Most Unusual Garden Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00-24:00. P­G­ X­B­6­W Cogito Coffee Shop This neat little minimalist masterpiece serves coffee from Cogito, the city’s prime independent importer and roaster of quality, carefully-sourced beans. With functional-butcute decor, indie rock in the background, and a varied choice of English-language magazines, it’s a great place to take a breather.And there’s an outdoor terrace on this ruggedly handsome nineteenth-century street. QA‑2, Prilaz Đure Deželića 40, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 08:0020:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; Sun 09:00-15:00.

Eli’s Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Kavana Corso Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a description of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all. Their Instagram account will give you a better idea.

If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93. Open 06:00-24:00. P­G­ X­T­B­E­6­W Meet Mia The section of Vlaška closest to the city centre is home to a wonderful grouping of shops, Meet Mia – a breakfast and brunch restaurant - being among them. Here you can get everything from tea and coffee to grilled sandwiches and dessert. Pick up something sweet to take away, or perhaps give them a call if you need something special made…

QD‑2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 23. Open 09:0022:00. N­B­S­W Program Bar Part of the team responsible for the much-missed Martićeva landmark Divas café have taken their hospitality skills up the road and launched another attempt at creating a destination café that will be markedly different to any others into which you have so far trodden. The interior – featuring scaffolding, the odd bag of cement, and paintwork so unfinished that you can still see the roller marks – takes a subtle swipe at the over-designed, over-themed bars elsewhere in the Croatian capital. Good coffee, fine cakes, comfy cushions and a good choice of beers and wines ensure a regular influx of greeters and gossipers.

The smoking chamber right at the back has the mysterious feel of an indoor forest. QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 14F, tel. (+385-) 098 993 82 79. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat 08:0023:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. X­B­J­W Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.

Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.

QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 44, www. velvet.hr/en/caffe.html. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:0014:00. A­P­G­T­B­J­6­W ­i Summer 2019 25

Dežman bar Archives

Nightlife Towards the end of July and throughout August some bars and clubs could be closed due to a collective company holiday policy. Therefore, do check their working hours online before heading out.

22 000 milja Dive into the wide selection of beer, whisky, cognac, rum and cigars in Jules Verne themed bar in the heart of Zagreb. A favorite place for art & law students as well as cigar and pipe aficionados. The place with rich atmosphere and great prices.QB‑2, Frankopanska 22, tel. (+385-1) 481 70 07. Open 07:00-02:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­B­E­L­ J­6­W Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr.

Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00.

N­P­X­T­B­E­6­W Garden Brewery Situated in the wilds of Žitnjak, Garden Brewery, like its name suggests, is the brainchild of the team behind Tisno’s Garden Festival. The brewery has a bar, open to the public, and serves food, courtesy of Submarine Burger.

Garden Brewery holds frequent events, with renowned DJs such as Craig Charles (Red Dwarf) and the Zagreb Allstars.

QL‑4, Slavonska avenija 22F, tel. (+385-1) 563 41 00, www.thegarden.hr/brewery/en. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. B­W Hub Cooltura Pub Zagreb, like any city, will always have its secret spots, and Hub Cooltura Pub is one of these. Tucked away just south and east from the main bus station, this is an ideal location to meet your friends and not be bothered by roaming groups of rowdy revellers. Coffee by day, some craft beer by night. Not a place for a quick beer, more a place to sit and savour your drink.QK‑3/4, Rapska 20. Open 07:0024:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. A­G­X­U­B­6­W Jabuka This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electropop.QH‑2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 244 19 44. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. P Johann Franck If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dežman Bar Lined with fashion boutiques, florists and design stores, the intimate pedestrianized Dežmanova street is like a little piece of Paris pulled out of place and plonked down in downtown Zagreb.

The Dežman Bar very much lives up to the prevailing ambience, with a chic and soothing coffee bar that serves exquisite cakes and snacks, and a more intimate drinks bar (“Dežman Mini Bar”) with a separate entrance a few doors down, serving a shrewdly-curated mix of wines, spirits and classy creative cocktails. Served in both locations is a range of affordable, seasonally-changing gourmet food ranging from sandwiches to pasta, risotto, fish and steaks.QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. Dežman Mini Bar Open Tue, Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon and Sun. P­X­T­B­J­W ­i like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. Reasonably priced food menu with affordable daily specials posted on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www. johannfranck.hr. Open 08:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 08:0004:00; Sun 09:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­B­J Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for or‑ ganized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. N­P­G­X­U­ B­E­L­6­W Opera Club Zagreb’s general architecture lends to some interesting entertainment locations, and Opera is one such place. Just a few minutes’ walk from the main square, Opera is a Multimedia Club, and has a full schedule for the city’s residents zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife and anyone passing through on a weekend break. The club takes bookings for groups and for special events. Bring a camera, you’ll want to share with your friends.QC‑2, Petrin‑ jska 4. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00. A­X­J­W Pločnik Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds music with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest from the alternative world of street art, into one multifunctional space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor to chill out on vintage couches while sipping a local craft beer in a collective living room-like atmosphere inspired

by New York City from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the record store, listen to your favourite music and come away with a rare vinyl record, or step into the basement in the evening to check out the nightclub and temporary art gallery.

Pločnik is a collective lifestyle concept that’s definitely not to be missed.QH‑3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-) 091 430 07 33, www.pozitivanritam.hr/plocnik. Open 09:0002:00; closed Sun. A­B­E­6­W Sedmica This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too.QA‑2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89, www.caffebar-sedmica.com.

Open 08:00-01:00; Sun 17:00-01:00. A­P­X­T­B­ J­6­W Swanky Monkey Garden Let it be known that the Swanky Monkey Garden not only has a terraced courtyard café, from May on wards it opens its outdoor pool allowing guests to perfectly unwind amidst the serene garden. Voted as Croatia’s best hostel a few years back; highlights include the walls of the main bar which are papered with replicas documenting the buildings previous life as a factory. There’s never a dull moment with events organised regularly which include live bands, acoustic sets, DJ’s, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups to festivals and more. If in town, come to Swanky, and we’re not monkeying around! QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, www.swanky-hostel.com/mint/index.php/menza-bar.

Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­ B­E­J­6­W­C ­i Tvornica kulture Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on.QE‑3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, www.tvornicakulture.com. Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. A­P­X­E Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Diamond Palace Casino The embodiment of glamour, elegance and fun! At night, this impressive 1600m2 ambiance with murano glass chandeliers, suede playing tables, and a bar made of rare onyx turns into an almost surreal backdrop for players, as well as an inspirational space for theme parties where you can have fun with your favourite athletes and numerous stars who this Casino has become an integral part of nightlife. Bar of ultimate entertainment and stakes are constantly being raised, as well as the activities at international tournaments of passionate poker players who are pouring into Zagreb. QD‑3, Draškovićeva 43, tel. (+385-) 091 311 36 19, www.casino-diamondpalace.com.

Open 00:00-24:00. P­L­J­W­O friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 09:0002:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00; Sun 17:00-01:00. P­X­ T­B ­E ­6 ­W Summer 2019 27

Sightseeing TOP SIGHTS

Bikini Scooters

Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Bikini Scooters offers guided tours on their electric scooters, scooters which you can also buy if you’re more of a mind to go where the wind takes you, and if you’ve other destinations on the horizon. There are three set tours, Morning, Afternoon, and Night. Each tour takes into account the sort of daily life you’d see in the Croatian capital, providing you with pertinent information should you wish to come back the following day to observe at your leisure. You can also ask for a customised tour – just provide the tour guide with an idea of the places you’d like to see, the sort of content you’re interested in, and voilà! A curated tour just for you! QKožarska 16, www.bikiniscooters.hr.

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 30/15 kn.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography.

Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed.QB‑1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00, www.hismus.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 13:00. Admission 15/10 kn.

Dolac (Dolac Market) Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour. QQB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15kn.

Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower

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Sightseeing

Photo: Konstantin Maslenikov, 1907/08, Shaman Fedor Polingus and his spirit helpers, Eastern Siberia, collector A. Makarenko, archive Russian Museum of Ethnography

SHAMANISM OF THE PEOPLES OF SIBERIA

17 APRIL – 20 OCTOBER 2019

VISITING EXHIBITION

OF THE RUSSIAN MUSEUM OF ETHNOGRAPHY, SAINT PETERSBURG

Design: Danijela Grgić

IN LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

SLOVENSKI ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / SLOVENE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Metelkova 2, Ljubljana, Slovenia; Hours: Tuesday - Sunday 10.00 - 18.00; Summer 2019 Closed: Mondays; Free admission: Every first Sunday in a month.

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Sightseeing a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape.

The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, Zoological Garden of Zagreb is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zoo.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

The ticket office closes an hour and half before closing time. Admission 30/20 kn.

that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30-22:00.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he completed many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 30/15kn.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds,

Mirogoj Cemetery Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful

Around Project, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Pimp My Pump Archives

Experience Meštrović to experience Zagreb

T: +385 (0)1 48 51 123 | F: +385 (0)1 48 51 126 Mletačka 8, 10 000 Zagreb | Email: mim@mestrovic.hr TUE - FRI 10 am - 6 pm, SAT - SUN 10 am - 2 pm The Museums of Ivan Meštrović are closed on Mondays and public holidays 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Hermanna Bollea 27.

Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija) Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Admission 50/30kn. Family ticket 120kn (includes two adults plus two small children) Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn. Planetarium admis‑ sion 15kn.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg sve‑ tog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Sightseeing

been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 13:00-17:00.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 40/30kn. U Typhlological Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.

QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, www. tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn. U Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Split Pulse Fairytale Zagorje

Trakošćan Castle Built in the 13th century, this is Croatia’s best kept castle and is a majestic site from any viewpoint. Initially, it was used as an observation fortress and then grew with several families taking ownership over the centuries, the most prominent being the noble Croatian family Drašković. Today, the castle houses authentic weaponry, armour, paintings, prints, furniture and scripts, dating back centuries. The surrounding park and lake offer a magical medieval setting when chivalry and knighthood once prevailed.QTrakošćan 1, Bednja, www.trakoscan.hr. Open 09:0020:00. From November Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission (40/20kn).

Trakošćan Castle Archives

Thermae Tuhelj, Biser Zagorja Tourist Board Archives

Therme Tuhelj Thermae Tuhelj is the largest bathing resort and wellness centre in Croatia. At Thermae Tuhelj know how to take care of your well-being with massages and personalised body and facial treatments. Spoil yourself with thermal baths and escape from the stress of everyday life with healing thermal mud wraps. In the biggest sauna centre in Croatia – Sauna World, they are the only centre in the country which offers the appropriate sauna programmes. The largest water world of fun near Zagreb. QLjudevita Gaja 4, Tuheljske Toplice, www.terme-tuhelj.hr.

a fairy tale just an hour away from Zagreb...

Castle TrakoπÊan

www.trakoscan.hr

open daily: 9 am - 8 pm (april-october) in Zagreb, Photo by Julien Duval, 9 am - 5 pm (novemberAdvent - march) Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

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Summer 2019 33

Krapina Neanderthal Museum Archives

Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience. It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered.

The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. This is the most numerous and most varied collection of such fossils in the world. The remains of dozens of people were found, together with those of animals such as the cave bear, wolf and rhinoceros as well as Palaeolithic stone implements. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. It is not only the direct connection with the original find that brings you so close to deep prehistory: sculptures of Neanderthal families are so realistic that visitors have an eerie sense that they are about to move at any moment. You’re propelled back in time by sounds and smells recreating the world of Neanderthal man. You can touch the sculptures and learn about their emotions, rituals and entertainment. In short, this is about as close to Neanderthal man as you can possibly get, and is a real eye-opener, revealing how close to our own kind the Neanderthals truly were.

QŠetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina, tel. (+385-49) 37 14 19, www.mkn.mhz.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. From No‑ vember Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/30 kn.

The Old Village Museum - Kumrovec, Jasenka Haleuš, Krapina Zagorje County Tourist Board Archives

34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Antun Augustinčić Gallery (Galerija Antuna Augustinčića) Antun Augustinčić, born in Klanjec in 1900, is one of the foremost 20th century Croatian sculptors, whose works convey a muscular power and expressive dignity. This ability to create on a grand scale led to Augustinčić being commissioned for a great number of public works at home and abroad. Perhaps his best-known work is his equestrian statue Peace, which stands outside the UN building in New York. Augustinčić’s statue of his great friend Josip Broz Tito stands in Kumrovec, and the giant relief and statue of Matija Gubec in Gornja Stubica is also his work.

Augustinčić donated his life’s works to his home town, including monumental works, intimate sculptures, expressive portraits and nudes. A visit to this museum is essential for anyone with even a passing interest in sculpture. And while in Klanjec, don’t miss the opportunity to see the renovated Austro-Hungarian sarcophaguses in the crypt of the Fransiscan Monastery or to taste the local wine variety Sokol.QTrg Antuna Mihanovića 10, Klanjec, tel. (+385-49) 55 03 43, www.gaa.mhz.hr. Open 09:0017:00. Admission 25/15kn.

The Old Village Museum - Kumrovec Hard up against the Croatian-Slovenian border lies the village of Kumrovec, the birthplace of one very famous half-Croat, half Slovene – Marshal Josip Broz Tito, president of Yugoslavia for most of the existence of that erstwhile republic. It’s a picturesque setting for the story of the man who fought the Nazis to free his country and unite the south Slavs. Kumrovec is an excellent example of a skansen – the old core of the village has been preserved in its entirety as a museum. You can wander the streets with their grassy verges and greens, and pop into delightful wooden houses where you can see exhibits such as the old schoolrooms, traditional toys, handcrafts, agriculture, a smithy, collections of Easter eggs and nativity scenes. And all of this is set in glorious countryside. Opening times vary according to the time of year; for information see www.mss.mhz. hr/en.QJosipa Broza 19, Kumrovec, tel. +(385-49) 22 58 30, www.mss.mhz.hr/en/. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 25/15 kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Galerija Antun Augustinčić, interior, Klanjec, Biser Zagorja Tourist Board Archives

Fairytale Zagorje

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Croatian Love Affair Indeed, it’s as easy as ABC to fall in love, the A1 motorway, Beautiful scenery, Croatia! Just drop everything and go

Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC

Indeed, it’s as easy as ABC to fall in love, the A1 motorway, Beautiful scenery, Croatia! Just drop everything and go!

Rent a car in Zagreb, hit the road. Try the sights of Ozalj, from Ozalj Castle up high, to the Vrlovka caves down low.

Take an extended break in Ogulin. Here you can see Ivana’s House of Fairytales or take a swim in Lake Sabljaci. Continue on to Zadar and you’ll have no shortage of things to see there. The Sea Organ, the Sphinx! Or how about the Dali exhibition being held in the Rector’s Palace? Next up is Vodice, with plenty of restaurants to sate your appetite.

After lunch, perhaps grab a ferry over to Prvić where you can see the Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre. Faust Vrančić was a 16th century scientist and inventor, born in our next stop, Šibenik. All of Šibennik itself is a museum. The cathedral is a UNESCO heritage site, with the city’s fortresses providing amazing views and great locations for your social media posts. Then Split, world famous for Diocletian’s Palace. The old town is a maze of shops and restaurants, and perhaps if you’re lucky you’ll encounter some Roman troops on duty... Take a ferry over to Supetar, on Brač. Brač

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

is well known for its white stone, readily visible across so many Croatian markets. Supetar has the Voi’Sa Festival and the Brač Film Festival, certainly worth taking part in as the cinema is open air. When back on the mainland, it’s time to head to Dubrovnik, King’s Landing. This August sees the 70th Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Swim at Banje Beach. Go visit Lokrum, Korčula, Mljet, each more beautiful than the last. You’ll not be short of things to do, nor things to see...

don’T miss The Žganjer family have been in the food business since the 1970s. Their dedication to the guest is key in their continued success.

The Čulig household was started in 2000, with the goal of being a main tourist attraction in the area.

From here you can see all the way to Slovenia!

If you have a sweet tooth, and fancy witness‑ ing some confectionery tourism, ŠtrudlaFest in Jaškovo is the place to be, September 8th.

Karlovac’s Etno Jazz Festival sees a wide range of music genres from jazz to the truly modern. Past years have seen artists from all over the world at‑ tend, July 19-21. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC Ozalj Perhaps you know Karlovac as a town you bypass on the way to the sea. Perhaps you know it as the home of Karlovačko pivo – our favourite brewery. But maybe you haven’t yet peeked into the town itself. Well, with its charming little medieval core, that’s something you definitely should do one of these days. However, this issue we’re going to talk about Karlovac County. The reason why Karlovac has great beer is the immense amount of pure natural water in the vicinity, since it lies where four rivers meet. These rivers lend lushness and diversity to the natural landscape, meaning there’s loads to do here if you’re of a recreational bent – but more about that in spring. Right now, when it’s cold enough to make brass monkeys fear for the intimate parts of their anatomies, we think a little sightseeing would do very nicely. Along with a yummy lunch of local food. And perhaps some beer. Mmmm...

Let’s hit the little town of Ozalj, lying close to the border with Slovenia, near the Dobra and Kupa rivers, close to lakes richly stocked with fish, protected by the serrated Žumberak mountains to the north, and surrounded by gentle hills and vineyards. At the centre of the little town there stands high on a limestone rock, Ozalj’s castle, the symbol of the town. Founded in the 13th century and owned by successive Frankopan and Zrinski dukes, the castle grew into a small walled city. A newer part of town later grew up at the foot of the fort, but the overriding

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Ozalj, Photo by Domagoj Novosel

impression is a charming medieval one.

In the Ozalj area there are numerous stately homes and palaces dotted around. One of the most surprising looks rather like a miniature English castle, lying right by a weir on the Kupa riverbank. This “Stone Palace” is, in fact, a hydro-electric power plant, dating back to 1908, one of the first in Croatia. Although it really did work, serving Karlovac with electricity, this neo-renaissance building is nowadays a listed monument. Designed by Hermann Bollé, this castle-like visage is very much intended. It was hoped that this necessary industrial construction would fit seamlessly into the surrounding architecture.

All in all, we vote Ozalj a great day out. Take a look at the web pages below to see more great pictures to whet your appetite, and find a place for a local bite to eat washed down with a glass of that local wine.

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Croatian Love Affair - As Easy as ABC Ogling Ogulin...

Right in the centre of continental Croatia, where the rivers Dobra and Zagorska Mrežnica meet, is the town of Ogulin. It covers an area over 500 km2 and is an integral part of the County of Karlovac. As a hub, it has excellent traffic connections both east and to the southwest: the A1 motorway is only two kilometres from the centre of the town, and Ogulin is also an important junction on the Zagreb, Rijeka and Split railway line.

Ogulin is also the home of fairytales. As a youg girl, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić listened diligently and with great attention to the fairytales of the town where she was born, and it was of these she would write about in her autobiography. Her fairytales today are extremely valuable and a unique cultural resource which surpasses their local significance. Accordingly, Ogulin has become a homeland of fairytales where every year, in June, an international festival of Ogulin fairytales (OGFB) is held; as well as various creative workshops and storytelling throughout the

year which draw visitors to the unique fairytale route encouraging curiosity and playfulness! The fairytale natural heritage which Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić wrote about in her autobiography Klek, romantičnost toka rijeke Dobre (Klek, the Romantic Flow of the River Dobra) and the rich cultural-historical heritage (especially the folk costumes and customs) has really given the region a powerful fairytale feeling. This is completed by the Frankopan Kaštel, a castle in the centre of the town. Ogulin has always attached great importance to the preservation of its intangible heritage. Many motifs from local stories and legends have found their place in the names of civic associations, songs and events. And so they have become a part of the city and its tourist attractions.

Spots to see include the Heritage Museum in Ogulin and the Ethno House in Zagorje Ogulinsko. Across the region, you can also fine sports fishing, hiking and mountaineering Klek, and of course cycling trails.

Ogulin, Photo by Zdravko Špehar, Ogulin Tourist Board Archives

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Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC Zadar Zadar is an ancient city built over three thousand years ago that has withstood some amazing trials and tribulations. Originally a city protected by well-kept walls, it houses an abundance of history from being the first Croatian University (1396) to its protection by four guardian saints; Zoilo, Simeon, Grisogone and Anastasia. A day’s walk around the city will blow you away with the churches, chapels and monuments that have stood the test of time. Yet, there is a modernisation to the city with new features and attractions to spruce up the cultural and tourist offer of the city. Named as the ‘2016 European Best Destination’, Zadar is home to multitudes of food and music festivals, cultural events, concerts, sports gatherings, national parks, bays and more. Clubs, bars and restaurants are always abound and it is really up to each visitor to choose the sort of holiday they prefer; one of sun and fun to peace beneath trees, or flair and dare!

Whichever you choose, we wish you a memorable time in one of Croatia’s golden cities.

don’T miss 06.05 - 12.08 » Glass Sculptures by Petar Hranuelli Croatian sculptor Petar Hranuelli is an eminent name in artistic circles having held over 50 solo and 100 group exhibitions. Hranuelli is a master sculptor of stone and now uses such techniques with glass. His exhibit consists of over one hundred sculptures in small glass format with the goddess Venus and nudes a common theme. Translucency and mythology are fused in one! QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

01.06 - 15.10 » Dali - Surrealist Worlds One of the greatest ever 20th century artists is Salvador Dali, a Spanish surrealist who passed away in 2009, will have 200 of his sheets, sculptures, tapestries and reliefs on ceramics, glass, sofas and other forms exposed to the public. With over 200,000 people already visiting this travelling exhibit, then anyone with an affinity to his works should not miss such a golden opportunity.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb, www.nmz.hr.

28.06 - 01.08 » The 25th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.

QC‑3, Various city locations, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

09.07 - 08.08 » The 59th Musical Evenings in St Donat If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Various locations across city, www.donat-festival.com.

Kalelarga, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

24.07 - 26.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues Summer in Zadar always jazzes up mid-July and for three nights, three top artists will perform. The opening night sees the Cuba Vocal Sampling, followed by Joseph Bowie & the Funky Bastardz, and the final night has blues legend Eric Bibb & Band. It all takes place on the beautiful open-air terrace of the Museum of Ancient Glass. QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.hnk-zadar.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC

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Summer 2019 41

Croatian Love Affair - As Easy as ABC Vodice Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the mostvisited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings.Vodice has over 6 km of well maintained, mostly pebble beaches. There you’ll find all kind of activities, bars, restaurants and other facilities that will make your days at the beach fulfilled and special. Also, with its three dog beaches, Vodice is an ideal destination for vacationing with pets. The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”).

Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed.

Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić

Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans.

A solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which – featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex – looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries – they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Photo by Milan Balaban, Vodice Active, Vodice Tourist Board Archives

don’T miss

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Archives

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica 1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28, www.mcfaustvrancic.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 30/15 kn (family 60kn).

42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, www.supetar.hr.

Open 08:00-22:00.

don’T miss SUMMER » Kino Mediteran A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular we mourn the loss of open air cinemas which offered the particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for six years now been reinstituting cinemas Dalmatia, with cinemas in 30 towns open during the summer, and 10 of those open throughout the year. The films on show are the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists.

May this project grow and grow! Kino Mediteran Pirovac, Kino Mediteran Omiš, Kino Mediteran Podgora,Kino Mediteran Imotski, Kino Mediteran Ploče, Kino Mediteran Bol, Kino Mediteran Supetar, Kino Mediteran Hvar, Kino Mediteran Jelsa, Kino Mediteran Komiža, Kino Mediteran Lastovo.

Qwww.kinomediteran.hr.

02.08 - 04.08 » Voi’Sa Festival An eclectic selection of sounds, with funk, soul, latin, dub, reggae, disco, boogie, house and electronic music all represented at Supetar’s Acapulco beach (Brač island).QAcapulco Beach, Supetar, Brač island, www. voisafestival.com.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

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Summer 2019 45

Croatian Love Affair - As Easy As ABC DUBROVNIK COUNTY The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell.

Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.

If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built respectively.

From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin word 'canalis', referring to water channels that used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).

The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, invaluable.

The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula is also known as 'Little Dubrovnik' because of the walls that surround it.

The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.

With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure offers.

The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life all the more special.

Rome’s Night at Narona, Narona Archaeological Museum Archives

46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

don’T miss Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.

QBaćina, Ploče.

Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the bestloved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes.

Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Admission 30kn.

Narona Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej Narona) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385-20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

Ston Saltworks (Solana Ston) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century.

It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston. Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 15kn. Guided tours 22.5kn per person. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Shopping Malls A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, Supernova Zagreb - Garden Mall in Dubrava and Supernova Zagreb - Buzin. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

CROATIAN FASHION Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:0015:00; closed Sun. A A shoo A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.

Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.QD‑2, Martićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, www.ashoo.net.

Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. N Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift.

QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www. borovo.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun. A Cerovečki Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Illustration by Zdenko Bašić, The Goldsmith’s Treasure Children Book

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Fashion Boutique Dora Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs.

Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J

More style for less cash

Britanski trg antique market Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QC‑3, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www.ulicni-ormar.hr/. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. From 50kn.

A­J­6

Jewelry Bashota Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from modern and original designs to jewellery which has been nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www. zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:00-13:00,16:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Jozef Gjoni They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery.

With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarnajozef-gjoni.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 96, www.zlatarna-mario.hr.

Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Medaković Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, www. zlatarna.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:30. Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Otvoreni atelier Lumezi Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.QJ‑3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. N

5 Museum Shop Finds Archaeological Museum Shop Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, www.amz.hr. Open 11:0017:00; Sun 10:00-13:00; closed Mon. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. A HNK Art Shop Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, www.hnk. hr. Usually operates every evening when there are shows on. A

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Shopping Felix in Cotton Today, this factory almost has a centuries-old tradition and continues to produce top quality textile products at affordable prices. It is the only factory that produces the finest damask in Croatia with their products housed in luxurious hotels, resorts and restaurants from the EU to the UAE and beyond. The company preserves tradition and therefore offers collections with motifs of age old Croatian patterns, sequences and motives. Give yourself or a loved one a Croatian household facelift with authentic bags, tablecloths, aprons, tea-towels, pillow cases, linen, quilts, and other assortments including souvenir packs in various colours, shapes and sizes. QC‑1, Opatovina 13, (just behind the main square and above the main Dolac market. At the corner of Skalinska Street and Opatovina Street.) tel. (+385-) 091 377 20 27. Open 08:00–20:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

Closed Sun. J ZIYP: Can you tell us more about Felix in Cotton?

Felix in Cotton: In 1924, Mr. Felix Pollack von Parnegg of Vienna initiated the production of textiles and thus created the foundation for today’s Textile Factory Trgovišće. Our products are the result of tradition, knowledge, fine technology and creativity. Our retail brand Felix in Cotton benefits from natural materials such as cotton through which we want to introduce our products and long-lasting tradition. Our factory possesses almost a century-old tradition of producing premium damask fabric. In addition to Croatia, our products are exported to countries such as the United Kingdom, Germany, Switzerland, the United Arab Emirates, Canada and the United States.

ZIYP: What makes the Felix in Cotton collection special?

Felix in Cotton: Instead of an ordinary print on a fabric surface, the use of jacquard weaving turns every fabric into a long lasting, luxurious and authentic product. All of our products are produced in Croatia, woven and sewn near Zagreb and all the motifs and patterns are woven in the fabric itself, which do not wash off at high temperatures and can be seen on both sides (doublefaced).

ZIYP: What would you highlight from the new collection?

Felix in Cotton: In addition to premium kitchen and bed linen, we offer a rich collection of designer souvenir bags, kitchen towels, pillow cases and aprons. The souvenir collection contains patterns of lace from the island of Pag and Lepoglava, as well as licitar, Glagolitic lettering, the city of Zagreb, a map of Croatia as well as trendy summer patterns through which we want to present Croatian quality to the rest of the world. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Shopping

Msu Shop A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon.

original pressings) with many rarities that are hard to find anymore. Definitely worth a peek, with lots of music genres covered.QH‑3, Podgorska 3, tel. (+385-1) 363 36 85, www.karmavinil.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun.

Muo Shop Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+3851) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. A

Bookshop

A good old vinyl Dancing Bear The best place for real music fans with a grand choice of vintage vinyl and CDs. Accessories such as music motifs printed on shirts, mugs, wine openers and the likes are abundant too. And being the season of giving, it is also ideal if you wish to find that perfect Christmas gift for your beloved. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0019:00; closed Sun. A Dirty Old Shop The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, tshirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www. dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. Free Bird We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300kn.QA‑4, Tratin‑ ska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. Open 08:30-20:30; Sat 08:30-15:00; closed Sun. From 9kn. A Karmavinil Did you grow up with a vinyl record in your hand? Remember those good old days, when all music was on vinyl? If so, then this store will revive some memories, as it is fully stocked with a lot of records (second hand, most of them 52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Planetopija This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QB‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0015:00; closed Sun. A­J

GAMES & Comics Carta Magica This shop specialises in games: board games, card games, trading card games, role play, fantasy and model-making.

There are also loads of accessories on sale, and there’s a large gaming zone for up to 40 people.QB‑2, Frankopan‑ ska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 99, www.cartamagica.hr.

Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. A Here Be Dragons Here Be Dragons is a recent addition to Zagreb’s burgeoning fantasy community. Opened in April, this shop has a massive collection of fully licensed and authentic fandom items. Harry Potter? Game of Thrones? Star Wars? Marvel?

DC? It’s all here. T-shirts, back-packs, Funko Pop dolls, tankards, wands, the list goes on. Situated on Tkalčićeva, you can’t miss it, with Batman and Wonder Woman standing guard at the door and in the hallway.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 34, tel. (+385-) 099 555 66 53, www.herebedragons.hr.

Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00.

Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A

Croatian design Link Gallery Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croatian designer products including lamps, unique ceramics, gifts for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly staff who are happy to tell you a little story behind each item, why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come in and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 94. Open 10:00-20:00.

Love_Ana Established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 75, www.loveanadesign.com. Open 13:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun, Mon.

for book lovers!

The Goldsmith’s Treasure (Zlatarovo zlato) Avid readers should definitely get a hold of the first Croatian historical novel, written in 1871 by August Šenoa and was only recently translated into English. It’s a tale of a prohibited love between the daughter of a goldsmith and a nobleman’s son set right here in the heart of Zagreb. The same streets, squares, churches, markets and monuments you’ve seen yourself whilst visiting our city reappear in the book. This fight for love and passion is dramatised with the addition of nobles, commoners, charlatans and murderers who attempt to divide the devotions that Dora and Pavao have for one another. The novel is the perfect memoirs of Zagreb, a great addition to your library collection or a subtle souvenir for a friend. Buy a book at: Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop, Link Gallery, Croatian Design Superstore at Franjo Tuđman Airport, Znanje Bookstore, Ljevak Bookstore, Hoću knjigu!, Tisak Media. For the first time, this Croatian classic by August Šenoa has been adapted for a younger generation of readers. This luxurious edition with enchanting illustrations by the popular and multiaward winning artist Zdenko Bašić becomes a magical setting for this tragic love story between Dora and Pavle. Besides getting acquainted with the story that is told to children in an acceptable way, readers will also discover many other details about Zagreb and its surroundings.Qwww.spiritoso.hr. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Shopping Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A

Home comforts Kofer.

Kofer started as a small project designing candles in tins, and the little design company has since grown beyond the world of small tealights. Gin, tea, spices, planners, even piggy banks are now found in these intricately designed tins, ideal gifts for the holiday season or any other time of year. Check out the little store on Ivana Gundulića, or the even smaller stall in the City Center One East shopping centre. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 442 22 33. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. Rogaška Crystal For all top-of-the-line lovers of glass and crystal, the Rogaška glassworks have opened a new store in town and their 350 year combination of tradition, art, passion and openness to new technologies still thrives. Their rich assortment includes crystal vases, candlesticks, bowls, picture frames, a wine program with top-quality crystal glasses to offer wine lovers a new dimension of wine enjoyment and a bar with impeccable design to enjoy some relaxed moments. All handmade in Europe.QE‑2, Trg žrtava fašizma 3, tel. (+385-1) 798 77 72, www. steklarna-rogaska.si/. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun.

Souvenirs G.E.A.Gallery If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir for which you can be sure it was invented and produced in Croatia.QC‑1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-) 091 554 38 91. Open 10:3019:30; closed Sun. A

Specialty Stores Havana Cigar Shop A paradise for hedonists, a special shop where dreams come true. Spoil yourself with a wide selection of Cuban, Dominican, Nicaraguan and other premium cigars, pipes, lighters, humidors, cigar accessories and an admirable range of exclusive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a 54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

European Premium Handmade Crystal.

TRGOVINA ROGAŠKA ZAGREB Trg žrtava fašizma 3 www.steklarna-rogaska.si wide selection of men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for you.QB‑2, Frankopanska 22, tel. (+385-1) 539 04 67, www.havana-cigar-shop.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:30-14:30; closed Sun. A­J Top - niche perfumery Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven! You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square.QB‑2 & C‑2, Tomićeva 4 & Trg bana J.Jelačića 13, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www. top.hr. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. Staccato - Porsche Design The shop is home to sundry items which we might describe as stylish, trendy, and quirky (and all at once). In addition to Porsche Design, Staccato also carries Hugo Boss, Diplomat, and Graf von Faber-Castell, all of which are ideal for giving that little extra something to someone’s work or home office. Fountain pens, ballpoints, diaries, to name but a few.QB‑2, Masarykova 26, tel. (+385-1) 467 88 74, www.staccato.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Kredenca Gift Shop Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products manufactured from all four corners of the country. This cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more. For non-EU residents tax-free shopping.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65 79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94, www.kredenca.com. Open 08:30-21:30. A

Rogaška Crystal Archives

Delicatessen Bonkulović Delicacies Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A Bornstein This is a boutique wine store in town and it’s run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement.

Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC‑1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, www.bornstein.hr. Open 10:0023:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. A

Kuća pršuta, sira, vina i maslina Pršut, panceta, pečenica. You name it, this place has it. Most of the meat on display is cured by the owners.

The cheeses are all Croatian, and come from some of the most notable names on the market: Gligora, Sabalić, Puđa, etc., and you’ll also find a wide selection of olives, preserves, and spirits. Moet, Hennessy, and Croatian wines are aplenty here.QD‑2, Vlaška 33, tel. (+385-) 095 854 20 38, www.kucaprsuta.com.hr. Open 09:0002:00. A­J Kuća zelenog čaja A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Pas‑ sage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www. kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0016:00; closed Sun. A­J

Gligora Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan, located on the Island Pag.QC‑2, Dolac Market, tel. (+385-1) 580 12 84, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-14:00; Sun 07:0013:00; closed Mon. A Kandit Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!QD‑2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit.hr.

Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-13:00; closed Sun. A­J Kraš Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Also at Avenija Marina Držića bb (E-4), tel. (+385-1) 611 32 91, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun and Varšavska 1 (B-2), tel. (+385-1) 487 28 55, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00-20:00; closed Sun. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Shopping climes, remember one thing – the Croats are kings and queens of fashion! ‘Twas way back in 1635, amongst the large numbers of soldiers rolling into Paris to fight against the nasty protestants in The Thirty Years War were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal regions. They wore coloured scarves around their necks, which the French military thought a wonderful idea. They were so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills that were the norm in Gaul. Hence the new fashion was taken up with enthusiasm and rapidly spread to the rest of Europe – the word for the original wearers: Hrvat transforming on the nonSlavic tongue to Cravat. For those of you that do not want to carry around a painful reminder of that which awaits at the end of your holidays, they make them in nice bright styles also.

Tirkiz, Felix in Cotton Archives

Natura Croatica A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www.naturacroatica.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. A Spice Up This Indian retail features a great selection of high-quality merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian tea varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many other grocery products through to personal care, apparel and more. It’s a small store but packed with goodies for a taste of curry in a hurry!QD‑3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun.

Licitarsko srce These small cakes are traditionally made from honey dough or gingerbread, although try eating one of those that you find displayed in shop windows all over Zagreb and indigestion is the likely result rather than the happy love life that is actually the point. Shaped as a brightred heart and decorated with white framing lines, flowers and mirrors, licitarsko srce have long been offered as love tokens to the object of affection. These days they are adorned with imaginative slogans such as ‘Zagreb’ and lie in wait to reveal to you the love the locals have for the contents of your wallet.

Paprenjak Gingerbread city, this scrumptious cookie-like critter consists of honey, walnuts and pepper in these parts. The conflicting set of flavours is considered by locals to symbolize the conflicted history of this region and its people.

Q www.paprenjak.hr.

Croatian creations Franck - Coffee & Tea As you will no doubt have noticed by now, coffee enjoys something of a central position in the cultural life of Zagreb. The Franck Company in Zagreb actually came into life as a subsidiary of the German multi-national Henrich Franck Sohne in 1882. Until 1957 the Croatian operation only produced coffee substitutes from ingredients such as chicory. However, with changes in economics and therefore customer demands, the emphasis then moved to real coffee. Franck is now overwhelmingly the market leader in Croatia. A swift walk through the town will convince that these days this is entirely a product that has at least captured the market in Croatia if indeed it hasn’t captured the spirit. Fruit, herbal and black teas are also processed in the Central European tradition.

Kravata - Necktie For any of you that are thinking about finding the slightest hint of irony in the idea that an item of clothing that almost single-handedly represents an uptight, constricted lifestyle should come from passionate Mediterranean 56 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Croata Archives

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

supports quality domestic products

#buycroatian

When shopping, look for products marked with

CITY CENTRE Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.

1 Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.

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2 1

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Top - niche perfumery Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven! You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square.

2 Tomićeva 4 & Trg bana J. Jelačića 13, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top.hr. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.

58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

ENTRE SHOPPING Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.

3 Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr.

Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun.

G.E.A.Gallery If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir for which you can be sure it was invented and produced in Croatia.

5 Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-) 091 554 38 91.

Open 10:30-19:30; closed Sun.

Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).

4 Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr.

Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.

6 Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www.ulicniormar.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. From 50kn.

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Arrival & Getting Around Arriving By plane The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Airport, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person.

Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

Franjo Tuđman International Airport Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Zagreb) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www. zagreb-airport.hr.

Arriving By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English.

Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 06:00 - 22:00) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/ hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square,

Transfer Service GoOpti GoOpti offers comfortable and convenient transfers to and from a number of airports. Currently it operates in more then 50 cities, including Ljubljana, Venice, Munich, Trieste and more, making airport tranfers as stressfree as possible. You can’t go wrong with GoOpti. With prices starting at €7, GoOpti’s main characteristics are proffesional drivers, an exemplary safety record and a smart and easy online booking system.

Qwww.goopti.com.

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.

Arriving By train Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user-friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83 (or *VLAK). Open 05:00 - 23:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Buy your tickets online via www.hzpp.hr/en or download for free their mobile application HŽPP. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. You can travel in a couchette and take your car or motorbike

tourist information Tourist Information Centre Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotrščak Tower.

QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6 (Prolaz Harmica), tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www. infozagreb.hr. Open 08:30-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:0018:00. From September Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around on a train as well. Bike transport is charged 15kn inside the country and 5€ for international transport. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. A 4kn ticket is valid for short rides up to 30 minutes, a 7kn ticket up to 60 minutes and are available only at kiosks and ZET store while the others are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr.

Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www.zet.hr.

The Sljeme bus line The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac stop and goes to the Tomislavov dom’s stop, eight times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends between 06:20 – 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

Parking Street parking/SMS Parking There are four parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1 is 12kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours, zone 3 is 2kn/h and zone 4 is 10kn/ day. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message 62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Around Project, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Pimp My Pump Archives

your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60, 20 or 30kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.Qwww.zagrebparking.hr.

Taxis Eko taxi As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free and easy to use application which is available on IOS and Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14, www.ekotaxi.hr. A Radio taksi Zagreb Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends.

There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Taxi Cammeo These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 6kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www. taxi-cammeo.hr. A Uber The Uber app is in full swing in Zagreb. Go anywhere in the city at any time with the tap of your finger. Use the app to find the driver nearest to you, automatically calculate the fare and pay via their exclusive cashless system. Uber is the most affordable option for getting around. Qwww.uber.com. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1

Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4

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Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2

Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

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