Zagreb In Your Pocket - July 2021

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Zagreb Summer 2021

Pulse of the City

25

Weekend Escapes N°97 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Advantages of Zagreb Card: — Unlimited access to public transportation —Free admission to city attractions

Zagreb Card24 98 kn

It also includes discounts at more than 55 locations such as museums, galleries, restaurants, shops, and others. From now on, Zagreb Card can be purchased online, at the Visitor Centre on Zagreb`s main square and at Franjo Tuđman Airport.

Zagreb Card72 135 kn

Free admission to the Museum of the City of Zagreb, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Broken Relationships and the Zagreb ZOO. For more information, visit our website at www.zagrebcard.com

Foreword Whether you’re here for a day or two or more, you’ll have plenty of time to explore! Our IYP guide is the perfect read and review booklets to help you get around and answer some of those queries any tourist may have.

To cut it short, our city is vibrant all year round and even though temperatures can get very hot, it’s in the evenings when the city truly becomes alive. Cafes, restaurants and squares are jam packed as people tend to cool off. Days are best spent in city museums and galleries, a visit to the Upper Town and some of the major city landmarks.

This days all you need to do is bring a blanket, throw on the sunglasses and enjoy the city parks in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere.

Please note that all events are subject to change (ZIYP is not responsible for any possible changes), so please make sure that the events have not been cancelled or postponed by checking the websites provided in this booklet.

All in all, we wish you a pleasant and wonderful stay in our lovely city!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Marko Babić, Artplakata.com Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

Contents

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb in Transition

6 The capital city of Croatia is definitely going through big changes

Events

10

Essential guide to the Summer events

Neighbourhood Guide

8

A moment or two on Martićeva

12 Green Oases In Zagreb

14

Here is our pick of secret spots to enjoy

Sightseeing

16

Discover what we‘ve uncovered

Restaurants We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat 4

Zagreb In Your Pocket

22

Coffee & Cakes

26

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Hangin’ Out 27 Are you ready to party?

Shopping 29

Priceless places and buys

Getting Around

34

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

25 Weekend Escapes

35

Places that are perfect for a total getaway

Maps City Centre Map Street Register

48-49 50 zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Editor’s pick One of the most Thrilling Croatian Artists - Lana Stojičević page 8 A moment or two on Martićeva page 12

Festivals June 6 - Sept 12 Caffe de Matoš Trg Ivana, Antuna i Vladimira Mažuranića (Mažuranac) June 6 - Sept 30 Green River Fest Sava River Bank Aug 18 - Aug 22 Cest is d´Best Various city locations Aug 21 Let The Music Be Free Festival Jarun Lake

Gourmet Experiance page 22 Grab a book page 29

Sept 9 - Sept 12 Katran Music Festival Live - Open Air Katran Sept 21- Sept 26 Zagreb Design Week Technical Museum Nikola Tesla / Hall V Tratinska ulica 2b Sep 15 - Sep 18 Art Zagreb Technical Museum Nikola Tesla / Hall V Tratinska ulica 2b

The world is worth watching - photographs by Slavka Pavić.

The exhibition is open until August 20 at the Kranjčar Gallery Photo by Juraj Vuglač

Zagreb in Transition It has been something of an eventful year in the Croatian capital, what with pandemic lockdowns, earthquakes, and much talk about what the future holds for a changing city. Some things have changed in Zagreb, some things have kept on going: here are our reflections on five contemporary phenomena affecting the face of the city.

Mali Zagreb is a series of miniature installations set up within the city of Zagreb. The author of the project is Filip Filković Philatz.

Unexpected joy for big and small ‘people’

Photo by Mali Zagreb Archives

The Street Triptych project, as part of which during 2021 the streets of Zagreb will be painted with artistic street art works..where you will find them, follow them on their Instagram @ulicnitriptih Photo by Ulični tripth Archives

6

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb in Transition Outdoor exhibitions Museum and gallery closures due to Covid-19 restrictions and earthquake damage meant that more art took place on the streets than behind closed doors. There has also been a renewed focus on outdoor exhibitions in general, and the way in which the city itself can function as a cultural space.

Initiatives such as Street Triptych, which invites street artists to cover vacant spaces in the city centre, have signalled a new appreciation of street murals and the people who paint them. Among key cultural institutions, the Art Pavilion has responded to the need for post-earthquake repairs by organizing sculpture exhibitions outside the gallery (July 20 - Sept 9: The Art Cycle in front of the Art Pavilion Kažimir Hraste / 1901 - 1907).From April 2021 exhibitions have been taking place on the café-lined Cvijetni trg, right in the middle of the city-centre pedestrian precinct, thanks to solar-powered panels that are able to display work in a way that is far better than simply putting posters on open-air display boards. With initial exhibitions devoted to landscapes and cultures of particular regions or countries, it’s almost like an outdoor illustrated encyclopedia: a great place to enjoy great photography and learn something at the same time.

Parks are the new promenades Zagrebians have always been fond of parklife – and there’s no doubt that the events of the last year have made the city’s green spaces more important. Not only were they a place to escape the physical restrictions of lockdowns or fears of tremors – they were also the perfect places in which to soothe way the stress of being an urban dweller in an age when urban life suddenly became more complicated. Maksimir, the vast expanse of landscaped lawns, lakes and woodland 3km east of the centre, is now more popular than ever. The same can be said of Bundek, the lakeside park south of the river; the walking and cycling tracks along the Sava river embankment; or the slopes of Medvednica, the mountain that looms above the city to the north. Indeed if someone without prior knowledge of Zagreb was to start writing a guidebook to the city from scratch in 2021, they would probably start with the parks rather than the museums and the churches; it’s in the parks that the life and soul of the city is to be found. Check pages 14 for the Green Oases tips and recommendations in Zagreb.

Zagreb has a new-old art museum Despite being stacked full of nineteenth- and twentieth-century masterpieces, Zagreb’s Modern Gallery was always misunderstood, overshadowed in the public mind by other art collections in the city. People knew it was an art gallery, but didn’t realize how crucial a component of the nation’s artistic heritage it actually was. A subtle change of name and a significant re-hang of the contents has sharpened the picture.

Now rebranded as the National Museum of Modern Art, it serves as the perfect showcase for Croatia’s emergence as a cultural power, and makes for essential viewing for anyone intending to visit the (somewhat better known) Contemporary Art Museum on the south side of the river. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Relax, this is Croatia Croatia’s much vaunted coffee-drinking culture has, in a way, come to the nation’s rescue. Throughout much of the pandemic period café terraces have been open, even if the interiors have not. Morning coffees have become even more important daily rituals, to be appreciated and savoured in quiet defiance of bad news elsewhere. During strict lockdown periods residents bought takeaway coffees from vending machines or places that were permitted to sell hot drinks, and collected, discreetly, on the streets where they would normally sit at a café table. Zagreb was actually a comforting place to be throughout much of 2020, an outdoor city that took things in its stride.The list of all coffee places in Zagreb certainly cannot fit on these pages. Find our recommendations on pages 26.

Welcome to the Swamp All levels of Zagreb cultural life have suffered enormously as a result of covid-19 and the earthquake, However one alternative club has continued to provide its regular public with a cultural diet throughout all stages of the pandemic, while scrupulously adhering to any regulations imposed.

Currently celebrating its 22nd year in operation, Močvara (The Swamp) navigated the first lockdown by broadcasting (via its social media pages) concerts performed by the city’s indie musicians in their own homes. After the tentative reopenings of late spring 2020, the club organized concerts, film nights and other cultural events by strictly controlling numbers and insisting on advance reservations. The club kept going through the winter of 2020-21 by constantly revising its seating policies in line with the latest regulations.

Through improvisational agility and the understanding of its fans, Močvara ensured a measure of continuity in a sphere of culture that has always been in Zagreb’s blood.

Make a note of these dates: July 27: Source of Sound: Chant Electronique (CRO, IRL,RA,FRA,P), July 28: Jazz in the Swamp: Colors and Shapes (ZG), July 30: The Enchanted Swamp: A Girl and a Boy (ZG), Aug 8: Source of Sound: Maria Mazzotta (I) and Aug 12: Meszecsinka (HU), Aug 18: Music Quiz, Aug 19 & Sept 1: Jazz in the Swamp:Gungula (ZG), Aug 21: Zea (NL), Aug 22: Swamp Aura:Chill in the Swamp, Aug 23: Source:34’0 (BG), Aug 31: Detective Jones (ZG), Sept 4 : Support the Scene:Ectratis (ZG), Sept 7: Film Evening, Aug 9: Indie Emo Glasses: DDR (ZG), Corridor (ZG), Sept 9: Mirna & The Fact Checkers (ZG), Sept 9: Tv Eye (ZG), Sept 13 & 27, Oct 25: Literature in the Swamp, Sept 14: Be ha Ve (ZG), Sept 15: Jazz in the Swamp: Bruno Mičetić Quintet (RI/ZG), Sept 17: Pale Origins (ZG), Sept 18: E.N.D. (ZD), Sept 19: Telepathic International Group-T.I.G. (DK), Sept 20: Terminator (ZG), Sept 21: Turbine - Turbo Tribune, Sept 22: TTI-21 (ZG), Sept 23: Detroit Groove Gang (ZG), Sept 24 & Oct 22 : Jazz in the Swamp: Sunrise Sessions (ZG), Sept 25: Fantasy Night in The Swamp: Second Breakfast (ZG), Sept 26: Source of Sound: Written Deer (ZG), Sept 29 & 30: Improfest, Oct 5 & Nov 2: Film Evenings, Oct 9: Lit Link Festival, Oct 10: Handicrafts Fair, Oct 15: Erotic Biljan Heretics (ZG), Oct 24: Bug (A), Oct 28, Skotni vrag (CRO), Oct 30: Dodger Artfool & The Viperes (CRO), Nov 7: Source of Sound: Monsieur Doumani (CY) Summer 2021 7

Eventsabout...

Story ivan kožarić 01.07 - 31.10 » Kožarić 100 Last November the Croatian art world was shaken by the death of Ivan Kožarić (1921-2020), a sculptor whose mercurial imagination has left a profound mark on Zagreb’s streets, and has in some way become one of the city’s main trademarks. His death was not exactly unexpected. Kožarić was after all 99 years old. However it was widely assumed that this endlessly inventive, playful and eternally young artists would, if not exactly keep on going for ever, at least make his century.

Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU) will be hosting major retrospectives devoted to Kožarić in the summer of 2021. QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00.

Bela and Miroslav Krleža Memorial Space Archives

Miroslav Krleža Although the Miroslav Krleža Festival has just finished, you can always visit the writer’s Memorial Home or purchase a summer read in the form of his book ‘Journey to Russia’ that has recently been translated into English.

Miroslav Krleža. Journey to Russia (Sandorf Passage; trans Will Firth) It may be almost a hundred years old, but this book by one of Croatia’s greatest writers has definitely been worth waiting for. Miroslav Krleža’s account of a trip to Bolshevik Russia undertaken in the 1920s is nothing short of a modern travel classic. Krleža was himself a communist and had a rather rosy-spectacled view of what Leninism meant in practice. However his book’s vivid, frequently critical descriptions of life in Russia under the new regime are both evocatively rendered and full of insight. The description of the journey itself, undertaken by rail across a Europe emerging cautiously from a period of war and revolution, is an exhilarating ride in itself. Above all it is a book filled with anxious Wanderlust; reading it in the midst of a pandemic will soon have you yearning to jump on a long-distance train.

Walk up to the Bela and Miroslav Krleža Memorial Home in a green oasis of Tuškanac (Krležin Gvozd 23, Open Tue 11:00 - 17:00) sometime between 23 July and 30 September to visit the exhibition ‘In Life and Death – sketches from life of Bela and Miroslav Krleža’. The exhibition tries to ‘peek’ into the private life of a famous Croatian writer and his beloved wife behind the closed doors of a villa on Zagreb’s Gvozd. It discovers the more intimate side of their relationship, their social life and travels through archival sources, memoirs and newspaper articles. The Krleža couple marked the cultural and political life of Zagreb and former Yugoslavia at the time.

8

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ivan Kapec A long-serving pillar of Zagreb’s jazz and experimental scenes, guitarist and composer Ivan Kapec scooped up the critical plaudits in 2020 with his fifth, self-released album Crta (“The Line”). Recorded together with Mario Bočić (saxophone), Šimun Matišić (vibraphone), Ivar Roban Križić (double bass) and Borko Rupena (drums), it is an eclectic, multi-faceted album of many moods and colours. The quintet moves effortlessly from melodic and silky to meditative and melancholy, and can suddenly shift gear to hit a percussive groove or explode into bonkers modern-jazz soloing. The unusual combination of Kapec’s baritone guitar and the other instruments (saxophone and vibraphone especially) gives the album a distinctive tone, occupying a niche between post-rock and the theme music to a hauntingly beautiful art movie. A prolific figure with a huge track record of solo work and collaborative projects behind him, Kapec looks set to be a central figure in Croatian jazz for the foreseeable future. ‘Crta’ vinyl is available in Aquarius, Freebird and Woodstock record stores in Zagreb.

Ivan Kapec, Photo by Vesna Zednik

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Events

Ivan Kožarić, Museum of Contemporary Art Archives

Matija čop A Step into the Past In 2014, Matija Čop’s signature dress appeared on the cover of Zagreb in Your Pocket. The works of this promising Croatian fashion designer were recently purchased by the famous Parisian Center Pompidou. Matija Čop is already well established on the international fashion scene, having been recognized by the icons of the popular culture such as Lady Gaga and Solange who both wore his couture dresses in their music videos. The museum purchased three dresses, two of which are now part of the museum’s permanent display, together with fourteen of his fashion design drawings. On your next trip to Paris, make sure to see Matija Čop’s work at Centre Pompidou.

Lana Stojičević, Sunny Side

Matija Čop Archives

Lana Stojičević Having won the Radoslav Putar Award, artist Lana Stojičević can be Considered Croatia’s Best Artist One of the most thrilling Croatian artists to emerge in recent years is the Šibenik-born Lana Stojićević. Her photographs directan ambiguous and unsettling gaze towards an Adriatic coast that we normally associate with happy beach holidays. Nominated for the prestigious Radoslav Putar art prize in 2021, Stojićević has become celebrated for a series of works that provide oblique commentary on the uncontrolled growth of vacation houses along the shore. In her 2018 series Fasada she photographed herself wearing an outlandish pink costume made in imitation of a coastal holiday villa. It continued a theme visited in earlier projects Villa Rosa and Parcela, in which modern apartment developments were reimagined as models, toys or cakes.Stojićević has already been feted by the foreign media for Sunny Side, an arresting series of photographs involving the futuristic swimming pool of the Hotel Zora in Primošten. Using both the real pool and models of it reconstructed to look like a flying saucer,Stojićević’s photographssuggest a sci-fi scenario that plays eloquently on the modernist aspects of the Adriatic landscape.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 9

Events 17.08 - 10.09 » Amadeo Scene A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatre in Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gal‑ lery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www. scenaamadeo.hr.

Strossmartre Archives

31.05 - 27.09 » Zagreb Time Machine Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon. Various city centre locationsQwww.infozagreb.hr.

09.06 - 01.09 » Strossmartre - Summer on Stross Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

11.06 - 04.09 » Art Park Zagreb Visitors can expect numerous workshops, music and film evenings, morning yoga classes, a program dedicated to sustainability and recycling, table tennis, regular vintage flea markets, picnics, exhibitions and presentations by young artists and other programs.QD‑1, Ribnjak Park, www.artparkzagreb.com.

15.06 - 12.09 » Tuškanac Summer Stage Fans of film will once again be able to enjoy a handful of quality movie events and festivals from June to early September at the popular Tuškanac Summer Stage. ‘Snap, camera and action’ as the schedule includes several programs. For more details, visit the Tuškanac Summer Stage Facebook page.QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau, Tuškanac 1, www.ljepotu.hr.

04.07 - 01.08 » Exit Theatre Summer Nights Zagreb can get a little tad quieter at summer as many people are down the coast but according to the EXIT Theatre, ‘the show must go on’… And rightly so as this theatre company aim to provide both locals and visitors with top-quality professional performances throughout the summer. Also from Aug 28 - Sept 9 2021. QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg Republike Hrvatske 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.teatarexit.hr.

10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

26.08 - 05.09 » Motovun Film Festival Perhaps Croatia’s most famous and most loved film festival of small and independent productions; the films screened at Motovun will be showcased for all guests and aficionados of film.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15.

17.09 - 23.09 » PIF - 54th International Puppet Theatre Festival Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language.

Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!)

Performers from all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s plays.Qwww.pif.hr.

21.09 - 26.09 » Zagreb Design Week Welcome to a series of events and gatherings not only for designers, but art historians, economists, journalists and the general public alike. Lectures, exhibitions, workshops and awards will draw public attention as a promotion of creativity and invention.2021 theme is Resilience. Pop-up concept store brings the best design on the Croatian market — from fashion and jewellery to tableware and furniture.QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.zagrebdesignweek.com.

14.11 - 21.11 » Zagreb Film Festival One of the largest international film festivals in Croatia which focuses on new film makers and debut films from across the globe will once again be held at numerous locations. The festival will feature a variety of films as well as educational content for all ages. And in addition to the main competition programme, a number of workshops, panels, lectures and other content intended for both professional and young and aspiring film makers. Qwww.zff.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Events

ONE OF Ivan Kožarić

ONE 100 A RETROSPECTIVE

poSIBLE 1.7. - 31.10.2021

ONES facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 11

Neighbourhood Guide A moment or two on Martićeva Spearing its way westwards from the city centre towards Kvatrić fruit and vegetable market, Martićeva ulica was ten years ago a fairly anonymous street with a modest scattering of unexciting shops. Suddenly it’s become the place where everybody wants to be, a centre of urban gravity filled with people meeting over coffee, shopping in boutiques, or idly dreaming of buying a nearby apartment.

Photo by Program bar Archives

Martićeva has been fingered by lifestyle journalists and scene-watchers as an up-and-coming location for several years already. Interest in the street began to take off when a pair of new cafés (Mojo and Alfresco) planted their terraces opposite the triangular fountains at Martićeva’s western end, quickly becoming rivals to the traditionally more trendy places in the centre of town.

Zagreb’s Design District, an arts fair-cum-street festival that was held for several years until budgets became tight, used Martićeva as its central focus due to its growing combination of cultural attributes. The small but impressive clutch of modernist buildings either on or just off the street made it a living showcase of Zagreb’s urban twentieth-century, while the number of creative types who lived here or drunk coffee in the street’s cafés gave the place a sense of cultural community. It was, in the eyes of its more enthusiastic propagandists, Zagreb’s idea of an arty neighbourhood.

12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

So what makes Martićeva worth visiting in 2021?

Acting as something as a social focus to the street is the small park half way along its length, where a statue of Fra Grgo Martić (the nineteenth-century friar, translator and educationalist who gave the street its name) overlooks a small rectangle of crazy paving and rose beds, overlooked by a trio of silver birch trees. It is here that you will find Booksa, the literary club and independent cultural centre that organizes talks, book presentations and other literary events throughout the year. In summer Booksa hold outdoor events in the park itself, bringing a festival vibe to the street. Almost next door to Booksais Program, the eccentric but cool café where most of Martićeva’s creative schoose to take their morning espresso. On the other side of Booksa is the increasingly well-reviewed Pizzeria Park, a relatively new addition to the Martićeva scene - but a crucial one in terms of bringing diners to a location that was previously not known for eating out. Diagonally opposite is Fogg, a post-industrial café-bar that has become a lively hub of evening drinking. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Neighbourhood Guide During the lockdown of winter 2020-2021, when the cafes and their terraces were closed, people would bring their take-out coffees to this little park halfway down Martićeva in order to keep a (discreetly distanced) sense of social life going. People wrote articles about it in the press. Martićeva became something of a cult location; it was one of the places where life still went on.

Culture vultures in search of landmark Zagreb buildings should note that Martićeva is also home to the city’s most famous – and indeed most photogenic - example of modernist architecture, the so-called Vitić Skyscraper or Vitićev Neboder. (It’s actually a few metres off Martićeva on the parallel street of Laginjina, although it’s still part of the Martićeva strip). Erected in 1960 to the designs of leading architect Ivan Vitić, it is not exactly a skyscraper in global terms, but is still tall enough to dominate the neighbourhood. What makes it so special is its colour scheme, with squares of primary red and blue chequer-boarding its façade in the manner of a Mondrian painting (indeed Mondrian is aid to be Vitić’s inspiration). Conscientiously restored to its original appearance in 2020, it is an enduring monument to post-war optimism, and a magnificent slap in the face to anyone who thinks that the architecture of the period is all about grey brutalism. And if there is one building in Zagreb that you should take a picture of, this is it.

Equally innovative, and still strikingly modern almost 65 years after its construction, is Drago Ibler’s so-called Wooden Skyscraper or Drveni neboder at Martićeva’s western end. Combining reinforced concrete and timber, it’s another source of modernist inspiration to young architects today.

The role of Martićeva as a place to do your shopping is relatively new, although its proximity to Kvatrić fruit and vegetable market has always ensured that it is a route well travelled, especially for people with food on their minds.

Boutique bakery Korica at no. 19 sells own-baked, additive-free bread alongside an eminently nibble some selection of croissants, sandwiches, quiches and cakes. Pekara Kuraž, in Kvatrić market itself, is renowned throughout the city for its succulent orahnjača (swirly walnut cake) and makovnjača (poppy-seed cake).

Martićeva’s reputation as a gathering-point for creatives and taste-makers is reflected in a handful of upscale florists and fashion boutiques. Garderoba Concept Store at no.17 sells haute couture with a creative twist; a glance through the window will tell you whether you fit their demographic or not. For unique designer threads of great originality (including some cosmic knitwear) take a peek inside the cute atelier-cum-shop of Nataša Mihaljčišin on the corner of Martićeva and Bauerova.

With warmer weather approaching and outdoor terraces coming into their own, Martićeva will once again be coming in to its own. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 13

Escape To These 12 Green Oases In Zagreb

Photo by Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Today, there are about thirty parks and many green areas in Zagreb which are not officially included in the definition of a park, but are used for rest and recreation.

Did you know that there is a giant mammoth in Zagreb and a giant redwood (Sequoiadendron giganteum)? More than 60 m tall, over 200 years old, with a circumference of more than 5 mand a beautifully-shaped canopy, it is one very few giant redwoods in Croatia. The question is, do you know where you will find it?

Here is our pick of secret spots to enjoy in Zagreb.

Botanical garden With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1889 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dotrščina Dotrščina is one of the largest parks in the City of Zagreb. It covers an area of about 2 km2, mostly forested, stretching between Maksimir and Mount Medvednica. The park was named after a small stream, Dotrščina (Doktorščina), that descends from Medvednica. Unfortunately, there is also a dark side of the Dotrščina Memorial Park connected to the Second World War. Dubravkin put The pleasant promenade that connects Cmrok and Ilica is ideal for walking, cycling and jogging. Quiet and wooded, this trail was once called Sofia’s Way, after Ban Jelačić’s wife, and over time it has definitely not lost its charm.

Moreover, it has become one of the most pleasant tame routes in Zagreb.

Jelenovac Jelenovac is 15 minutes’ walk from Ilica and located on the southern slopes of Mount Medvednica, and is surrounded by dense forest. Along the Jelenovac stream there is a pleasant promenade which slowly climbs through the forest to the street Jelenovačkivrh, where it is best to continue to the right towards Jelenovac. It’s real oasis of peace and ideal for walking with children.

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Jezera Savica Head south of Vukovarska along Radnička cesta and you come to Zagreb’s industrial zone. But many of us may not realise is that there are 12 lakes here, known as Savica, form a protected area with a nature reserve. When the Sava riverbank was built to prevent flooding, the lakes’ natural water supply was cut off. A large central heating plant lies by them. An outflow of clean water from the turbines replaced the missing water source, and Savica has become a paradise for more than 150 kinds of birds enjoying an ornithological Florida – the water is, of course, warm! The world’s first industrial nature reserve? The lakes are also carefully stocked with fish. You can buy permits at the club there and idle away summer days of tranquility.

Maksimir Maksimir is a nature lover’s paradise. The very leaves beg you to take in the denouement of their divine tragedy, and why wouldn’t you? The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. It’s home to four man-made lakes and there’s no shortage of trails to amble, bike or jog along. The numerous park benches along the paths or the water’s edge are perfect spots to pass the day away upon.

Kids, lovers, puppies and individuals with discernable heart rates seem to especially like it. If ever you had the inclination to pack a picnic basket, pick up a bottle of wine and splurge on a bouquet of flowers for good measure, this is the time and place to act on it.

Pharmaceutical Botanical Garden Fran Kušan This hidden oasis of medicinal and poisonous plants opened its doors to students, professors and other nature lovers in May 1947. The garden of the Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry of the University of Zagreb is special because it was founded in 1946 as the first botanical garden in zagreb.inyourpocket.com

this part of Europe specializing in the cultivation of medicinal and poisonous plant species. Today over 1300 different plant species grow here. This botanical garden at Schrottova ulica 39 is also open to the public on weekdays 08:00 - 15:00. Group visits need to be announced.

Ribnjak Ribnjak Park is located next to the walls of the Zagreb Cathedral. Once a wetland area known for the small ponds after which it is named,today it is a favourite gathering place for children and young people from the city centre. Greenery and peace guarantee pleasant moments for walking, light recreation and shade on hot days.

Rokov perivoj Tucked uphill just behind the post office on Britanski trg, this green space is an almost forgotten urban planning project repopulating a former cemetery with villas designed by architect Viktor Kovačić, and lived in by artists. The nude sculpture in the centre of the park is by the former resident of No. 2, sculptor Robert Frangeš Mihanović.

Susedgrad The ruins of the old medieval town of Susedgrad have been preserved to this day. The hill on which the medieval town is located rises steeply above a main railway line and road, which follows the River Sava. Near Susedgrad, towards Zaprešić, the river Krapina flows into the Sava. The old town of Susedgrad can be reached from Zagreb via Aleja Bologna. From there, in Podsused,turn right into Aleja Seljačke bune. At the beginning, on the left, is the start of a promenade through a landscaped park to the ruins of Susedgrad. It offers a beautiful view of the Sava River and the lakes near Samobor.

Tuškanac Forest This forest stretches down from the foothills of Mount Medvednica almost to Ilica, the city’s main street. Tuškanac street is a beautiful residential area with many villas housing embassies, while the forest has trails ideal for jogging and dog walking.

Zelengaj Zelengaj Forest Park is located north of Britanski trg, on the slopes of Medvednica, alongside Zelengaj stream.

In the past, Zelengaj, Josipovac and Tuškanac formed a unique complex of forests, orchards, vineyards, arable land and meadows, which was planned as a quarter of family villas with gardens at the end of the 19th century. This area is very popular for living today precisely because of the beautiful greenery and forests that surround it. If you are interested in architecture and beautiful villas, you can continue the walk next to the Bethlehem Monastery, all the way to Gornji Prekrižje, and return to Zelengaj via Tuškanac across the road. At Gornji Prekrižje, Villa Žiga Fuhrmann should be highlighted, one of the most important works of Stjepan Planić and Croatian architecture between the two world wars. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Art Park Zagreb, Photo by Borut Planinc

Summer 2021 15

Sightseeing

Photo by Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Dolac (Dolac Market) Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s under16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

ground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30-22:00. 5 kn, children up to 7 years free.

Lenuci’s Horseshoe (Lenucijeva potkova) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Republike Hrvatske with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C‑3/4. J Mirogoj Cemetery Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Her‑ manna Bollea 27.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 17

Sightseeing don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time.

Zagreb Cathedral is currently closed due to damage caused by the earthquake which hit the Zagreb area on 22 March 2020. At the moment you can only view it from the outside.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27.

The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.

Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-19:00. Admission 20/10 kn. J

Ivan Mettrović - Woman by the Sea, 1926.

Photo by Ivan Meštrović Museums Archives

Zagreb’s Solar System Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury (Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put), Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006.

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača. J

Museums & Galleries Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection. Except for interactive exhibitions interesting to children that are worth seeing and the children’s corner activities, kids will surely go for the slide (does not work if it is raining).QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn.

Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month. U June 2 - Aug 31: Cinematographies of Resistance - Women Minor Speculations, sequence 5 (Mutations) July 1 - Oct 31: Ivan Kožarić: Retrospective - one of the possible 100 July 6 - Aug 29: Zagreb Većeslav Holjevac from 1952 to 1963: Urban vision and architectural achievements Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović (1964–1993), nicknamed“basketball’s Mozart”, is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export and is considered to have sparked a wave of European players who went to play in the American NBA. As well as playing for Zagreb’s Cibona club, for Real Madrid and the New Jersey Nets, Dražen was the win-

18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Atelijer Meštrović Zagreb SCULPTURE MUSEUM

www.mestrovic.hr

ner of numerous medals at Olympic, European and World level. He tragically died in a traffic accident but his legacy is very much alive. This museum displays his medals, awards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.

Tram line 12, 9, 3, 14, 17, 4, 13. Admission to the museum is free for individual visits on June 7 and October 22.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 30/10 kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 15/40kn.

T­U­J­6 June 6 - May 22 2022: toYs - childhood forEver (Main exhibition) July 7 - Sep 5 2021: Toys - The Road to Dreams Come True (NT Technical Museum) Sep 9 - Oct 3 2021: Unforgettabe Cartoons - Little Flying Bears (Contemporary Art Museum) facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Oct 7 - Oct 10 2021: Games and Fun for the Little One (Croatian School Museum) Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction! QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, fax (+385-1) 630 21 42, www. lauba.hr. Open 11:00-22:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

T­U July 3 - Aug 25: Erwin Wurm: The Show Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he completed many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 30/15kn.

Summer 2021 19

Sightseeing

Cest is d’Best Archives, Photo by Sanjin Kastelan

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.

QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Open 10:00-21.00. Admission 40/30 kn.

Museum of Chocolate (Muzej čokolade) A sweet little secret in the heart of Zagreb, you can enjoy the Museum of Chocolate with all your senses. At daily workshops,all age groups can enjoy learning the story of chocolate: where it comes from and how it is made. For grown-ups,themed workshops guide you through creating your own chocolately treats and learning to taste chocolate like a connoisseur. There are creative weekend workshops for children, and chocolate summer camps for the luckiest little ones! QVaršavska 5, tel. (+385-1) 209 2966, www.muzejcokolade.hr/. Open 11:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. (last entry 19:00) Pub‑ lic holidays: please check opening times on (01) 2092 966. J Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija) Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+3851) 799 96 09/(+385-) 091 942 20 07, www.muzejiluzija. com. Open 09:00–22:00. Admission 50/30kn. Family ticket 120kn (includes two adults plus two small chil‑ dren). P­T­J­W 20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

National Museum of Modern Art (Nacionalni muzej moderne umjetnosti) The National Museum of Modern Art is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media.

From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await. QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, fax (+385-1) 604 10 44, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U July 1 - Aug 29: Sergei Borisov, Body vs. System Prigorje Museum (Muzej Prigorja) The museum exhibits a complete picture of the Prigorje region. Its founding in 1977 has also contributed to the discovery of the valuable archaeological site on the Kuzelin hill in 1975. In addition to the collection, the museum preserves and exhibits archaeological, historical, artistic, and documentary items whilst always engaging in conservation and restoration activities as well as education. QTrg D. Domjanića 5, 10360 Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 200 16 01, www.muzejprigorja.hr/. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sat, Sun. June 8 - Sep 17: Peek Under - Underwear and Hygiene Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, fax (+3851-) 484 35 68, www.tmnt. hr. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Mon. Admission 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

June 8 - Oct 12: Transmitters and connections - 95 years of broadcasting in Croatia The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, fax (+385-1) 485 21 25, www. hmnu.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑ son 20/70kn.Free entrance - children up to 15 years.

A­J zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Visit the Chocolate Museum Zagreb and try 9 varieties of chocolate.

Two minutes walking distance from the Josip Jelačić Square.

Muzej čokolade Zagreb, Varšavska 5, 1st floor www.muzejcokolade.hr The Croatian Society of Artists (HDLU Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika) Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, fax (+385-1) 457 68 31, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10kn. J July 7 - Aug 8: Ismar Čirkinagić: The House in a Forest on a Coast, Gallery Bačva July 7 - Aug 8: Josipa Krolo: Postseason, Gallery PM Typhlological Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, fax (+385-1) 483 52 18, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr.

Open 09:00-16:00; Thu 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn. U June 2 - Aug 31: Koraž: Signs in the bark Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/50kn. U­J July 1 - Sep 5: Touching art - Mladen Mikulin July 7 - Sept 30: In Life and Death - sketches from the common life of Bela and Miroslav Krleža, (Krležin Gvozd 23) Summer 2021 21

Restaurants Chef Ana Grgić, Le Bistro Esplanade Archives

gourmet experience ManO2 To say that the cuisine at ManO2 is inspirational would be a gross underestimation. Creative, highly unusual and with unparalleled presentation, these are not meals, they are experiences – just like at the original ManO restaurant in Medvedgradska ulica. The setup at ManO2 in the Radnička cesta business district is more tailored to working lunches during business hours, with the menus a good deal cheaper. The team is led by an extremely talented head chef who ensures that what the kitchen turns out is worthy of every gasp of admiration. Choose from a degustation menu of five or seven courses, or one of two wine pairing menus.QRadnička cesta 50, tel. (+385-1) 643 05 35. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. A NAV Restaurant One of Croatia’s finest chefs has opened the doors to his restaurant where traditional Croatian cuisine is fused with a strong eastern influence. Chef Tvtrko Šakota bases his 16 dishes tasting menu on the freshest of ingredients which keeps things imaginative. Its fine dining with the slow food style where one can really settle and indulge in the creative dishes amidst a great wine selection. QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-1) 202 99 61, www.nav-restaurant.com/. Open 13:00-20:00; closed Mon, Sun. (890kn). A­P­J­W Noel A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 6-course vegetarian menu and 6-course chef’s menu so that you can sample as much as possible. QE‑2, Dukljani‑ nova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97/(+385-) 095 5606 640, www.noel.hr. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. (650-950kn). A ­P­G­T­S­J­­K 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

American Steak & Grill House Steaks, be they New York, Porterhouse, t-bone, you name it, we’ve got it! At this restaurant, which specialises in American cuisine, barbecue chefs trained specifically for American barbecue cuisine will prepare distinctive American steaks on special grill plates according to special recipes. Along with classic American dishes based on meat, you can choose between a wide range of starters and sides in typically American style, such as baked potatoes, corn and fried onions, as well as many other delicious, typical dishes like shrimp or lobster, which always lend richness to the flavours. You just have to try their latest offer – Tomahawk 1000 g steak with fried onion rings.

QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-1) 481 86 13, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00-23:00.

(60 - 327kn). A­P­G­B­W Bistro Jadranka Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday.

Has an active Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. (70 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­S­i Bistro Šalša Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3, Kostelska 11, tel. (+385-) 095 199 54 59.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Sun. (44kn).

N ­PG­B­S­W Curry Bowl So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city. And that’s the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dolac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kotthu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’! QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www.srilankancurrybowl.com.

Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (52 - 79kn).

A ­B­S­J­W Dubravkin put You’d be forgiven for not knowing there was a restaurant here, but Dubravkin Put, situated at the start of the path of the same name, is home to Priska Thuring, renowned Croatian-Swiss chef. Traditional Croatian menu available with modern twist. All reports share a common theme, in that you must try at least one dessert. Huge wine selection. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Ensure you book ahead as seating is limited.QB‑1, Du‑ bravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, www.dubravkinput.com. Open 12:00-22:45; closed Sun. (100 - 190kn).

A ­P­G­B­L­J­W Good Food If you’re looking for a variety of freshly made meals made from healthy ingredients and local produce, then come hence forth! The Good Food chain offers a wide selection of breakfast meals and smoothies to something heartier, such as a burgers, tortilla wraps and sandwiches. Try your hand at making a craft salad with the wide selection of healthy toppings and variety of greens. All recipes are built around simple ingredients like fruits, vegetables and local proteins. The menu is also vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free friendly. You can find their eateries also at Teslina Street 7, and Pothodnik in Importanne Center. QD‑2, Palmotićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 206 66 66, www.goodfood.hr. Open 08:0023:00; Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 09:0017:00. (16 - 80kn). A Green Point Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot.QC‑2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67, www.green-point.hr/en/.

Open 11:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-20:00; closed Sun. (12 40kn). A ­G­J­W Japanese restaurant Tekka You might not normally associate Zagreb with Japanese cuisine, but over the last 5 years the Croatian capital has seen an impressive influx of high quality sushi. Tekka is one of the most recent additions, a bustling venue with an equally eager staff. A full menu is available, as well as several Japanese beers.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 37 b, tel. (+385-1) 638 93 98, www.tekka.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. (105 - 480kn). A­P­G­T­U­B­S­V­ L­­K Ježeva kućica If you are after a place that has good home-made cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and a great surrounding, you will be thrilled with Ježeva kućica (Hedgehog’s House) in Maksimir. Positioned right next to the Maksimir park-forest, this is a great retreat from city’s hustle and bustle as well as trendy restaurants. In a great atmosphere of this cozy new restaurant, one will enjoy the home specialties at affordable prices. Great food and the beauty of the location makes this place truly unique. QUl. Fakultetsko dobro 8, tel. (+385 01) 353 52 22. Open 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. Summer 2021 23

Restaurants Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30-23:00; closed Sun. (75 - 145kn). A­P­G­B­W Namaste Zagreb’s newest Indian restaurant is a large contemporary space and the menu is a fun and creative blend of traditional and modern dishes. Vegan food and a children’s menu are available, and everything is accompanied by colour and smiles aplenty.QH‑4, Selska cesta 217, tel. (+385-1) 626 44 58, www.namastezagreb.com. Open 12:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, 18:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. (60 - 85kn). A­P­L­W

Korica Korica isn’t exactly at the heart of it all, situated all the way down Preradovićeva, but it’s a great place to take the kids (or yourself) if the need arises. Korica’s baked goods are all prepared on site and are a step above your usual offering around the capital. The almond croissants can be especially recommended. It’s worth noting that weekend lunch hours will be busy, so a table is not guaranteed. Also at Martićeva street.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 623 19 95, www.korica.hr. Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 08:0015:00; closed Sun. P­G­T­S­J­ Le Bistro A cute glass box attached to the northwestern side of the Esplanade hotel, Le Bistro has for years enjoyed a unique reputation as one of the best places in Zagreb for a classy business lunch. Repositioned with new flair by head chef Ana Grgić, it’s now more popular than ever. Long-time Bistro stalwarts like Wiener Schnitzel and local cult dish Štrukli (delicious doughy parcels stuffed with salty white cheese) are still on the menu, but there’s a lot of new, adventurous and seasonally-themed dishes to choose from; the risottos in particular come highly recommended.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 11, www.lebistro.hr. Open 09:00-22:30. (140 - 300kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­W 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Oaza Joyful Kitchen Just how large must a review be before it becomes an essay?

That’s Joyful Kitchen! Run by OAZA - Sustainable Alternative Community - this wholly vegan restaurant is just the ‘front’ for a far more expansive operation. A social enterprise based on sustainable living, OAZA holds educational programmes for children and young adults on how best to ensure that their environment and surrounds are maintained so as to best serve the community. From gardening to civic leadership.

This is all reflected in the restaurant too. The menu is vegan from top to bottom, but at the same time is built in a way so as to appeal to those who might be of a more carnivorous nature. Burgers, wraps, sandwiches, a range of wok dishes, not to mention the cakes and juices all look and taste amazing. Flavour is everything for the chef and his team, and this is immediately evident if take a mere forkful of their carob cake. Trust us, you will not be disappointed in a visit here. QC‑2, Radićeva 9, tel. (+385-) 091 575 04 72, www.joyful-kitchen.com. Open 11:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Sun. (28 - 60kn). A Pupitres Run by noted local sommelier Jelena Šimić Valentić this smart, chic but altogether charming wine bar is one of the best places to explore the world of Croatian wine. The arched brick ceiling has been painted white to give the place a geometric pop-art look, and the range of wines on offer ensure that you can try something affordable as well as quaffing the finest vintages the country has to offer. Settle your stomach with pršut and Pag cheese, alongside delicious crusty bread. QB‑2, Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-) 098 165 8073, www.pupitres.hr/. Open 12:0023:00; Sat 17:00-23:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­B­W Royal India The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine where the scent of incense greets you right at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.

QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65. Open 11:30-22:45. (70 - 110kn). A ­P­G­T­B­S­V­J­­K Saralee’s Thai Street Food A welcome addition to the city centre’s fast food outlets, Khaos Thai is neatly placed right behind the Galleria Business Centre on Vlaška, at Trg Drage Iblera 10. You’ll be hard pressed to find fault with anything here. Great value for money, fantastic flavour and taste across the entire menu, and some of the friendliest staff there is. If you’re searching for your new go-to place, just try their green curry and you’ll know you’ve found it! QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10.

Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. S­J Tori street food Asian street food fans and fanatics have now got their new favorite place. Tori street food restaurant has recently opened its doors in the western part of Zagreb, the area of Špansko, which is becoming increasingly popular with new trendy places for good food and great fun. Tori street food is the latest contribution to the list. The chef Vid Nikolić prepares the mouthwatering Asian dishes that will make you want to return for more. QTrg Ivana Kukuljevića 5, tel. (+385 99) 380 26 57. S­V Tač Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking. On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec. QH‑2, Vrh‑ ovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, www.restac.hr. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (100 - 250kn). A­P­G­B­ I­L­6­W Vinodol A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family celebrations, Vinodol is one of those unavoidable Zagreb culinary landmarks that never lets its reputation slip. Given its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese. Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring and summer – you may need to reserve. QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/ (+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 12:00-22:30.

(80 - 185kn). A ­P­G­B­J­6­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

pizza Duksa It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”.

Buon appetito! Also at Ede Murtića 11 (Bundek Centar).

QK‑2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www. duksa.hr. Open 10:00-23:00. (49 - 64kn). A­P­G­ B­S­6­W Karijola This second opened location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, woodstyle interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-tobelieve-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at I-3 Badalićeva 18, (+385-1) 366 70 44.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16, www.pizzeria-karijola.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. (41 - 79kn). A ­G­B­S­W Summer 2021 25

Coffee & Cakes Palainovka Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here, you’ll be happy to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 57.

Open 08:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00. N­PB­W Botaničar Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in another, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden. This part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy your tea or coffee.QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 6.

Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. T­B­S­J­6­W Finjak Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful stepback-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 130 0057. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. G­BJ6­W

Program Bar Part of the team responsible for the much-missed Martićeva landmark Divas café have taken their hospitality skills up the road and launched another attempt at creating a destination café that will be markedly different to any others into which you have so far trodden. The interior – featuring scaffolding, the odd bag of cement, and paintwork so unfinished that you can still see the roller marks – takes a subtle swipe at the over-designed, over-themed bars elsewhere in the Croatian capital. Good coffee, fine cakes, comfy cushions and a good choice of beers and wines ensure a regular influx of greeters and gossipers. The smoking chamber right at the back has the mysterious feel of an indoor forest. QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 14F, tel. (+385-) 098 993 82 79. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. ­B­J­W Trocadero The answer to parents’ prayers! Short of including babysitting services on the menu, this spot couldn’t get any familyfriendlier. With the café situated inside of a park, parents enjoy their coffees while watching their children swing, slide, seesaw, romp and play to their hearts’ delight. Those seeking a spot for undisturbed contemplation, however, are suggested to find their solace elsewhere.QB‑2, Dalmatinska 12 (pas‑ sage), tel. (+385) 091 537 53 32. Open 08:00-23:00. T­B

Karibu Kaaawa On Trešnjevka, in between the market and the park, you’ll find this interesting spot. A coffee shop first and foremost, here you’ll find beans and brands from all over the world: Croatian, German, Belgian, Spanish, Hungarian and British.

There’s a terrace so that you can enjoy both your coffee and the summer sun, while downstairs there’s an area for children to play, safe from the midday heat. On the webstore you can pick up items such as gift boxes that were created in collaboration with the School of Applied Arts and Design in Zagreb. Each box weds the world of African and South American coffee, with coffee related souvenirs made in Croatia or from around the cities of Europe. You can also use their webstore to subscribe to receiving different bags of coffee each month. QH‑4, Ozaljska ulica 34, www. karibukaaawa.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:30-15:00; Sun 08:30-14:00. G­B­W

U Dvorištu Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation.

Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).

QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, www.cogitocoffee.com/. Open 09:00-20:00; Wed, Thu, Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; Sun 09:00-15:00. N ­P­­B­J­6­W

Kavana Corso Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a description of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all. Their Instagram account will give you a better idea. If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel.

Certainly worth the visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93. Open 06:00-24:00. P­GTB­E­6­W

Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. A ­P­G­T­B­J­6­

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Hangin’ Out

Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:0024:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00. N ­P­­T­B­E­6­W Hub Cooltura Pub Hub Cooltura Pub might be considered ‘normal’ or it might be considered ‘different’. It looks like you’d expect a café or pub to look like… a combination of rustic, local styles, and it looks radically different at the same time, integrating more industrial motifs and imagery. Think a mix of steampunk and Doctor Who. All in all it’s relaxing, and welcoming.

The interior is handmade, original design, and the space is dominated by retro armchairs, creatively used beer bottles, old-fashioned kilns, and even tractor crates. If you think this type of different is your thing, then you must try this place at least once. If it’s not giving away too many secrets, the In Your Pocket offices are a mere quarter hour jaunt away, and you’re not at all that far from the main bus station. The nearest tram stop north of the pub is Olibska, the 2, 3, and 13 use this line, while you’ve also access via the 6, 7 and 8 lines to the southwest. That’s nearly half of all trams in Zagreb! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

The universe is telling you something!QK‑3/4, Rapska 20, tel. (+385-) 091 519 37 36. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 09:0024:00. A­GUB6­W Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week-film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip decor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. The club’s bar is open from 17:00 to 24:00 every day, in addition to organized concerts, exhibitions, panels and special events, which you can track on their Facebook page.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip 1 -3, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. N ­PGUBE­L­6­W Mojo bar Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, and DJs on the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33.

Open 07:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-23:00.

A ­P­­T­B­E­6­W Summer 2021 27

Hangin’ Out Mr. Fogg An established steampunk venue, Mr. Fogg is spacious and continues to grow in popularity. Exposed brickwork, dials and gauges abound, and unusual metal sculptures everywhere. If you’re the sort of café-goer who loves taking photos of your surrounds, then you must set aside an afternoon or night and make a trip to Martićeva. When you do get here you’ll see a wide range of spirits, several of which are unique to Mr. Fogg. These are used to tweak various cocktails so as to mirror the journeys of Phileas Fogg himself. There’s also a list of bespoke cocktails, with the barstaff only too happy to help you in designing one all for you!

QE‑2, Martićeva 31, www.facebook.com/BarMrFogg.

Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. B­J

Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down.

And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/ (+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar. com. Open 09:00-24:00. P­T B­E­6­

Cocktail bars A Most Unusual Garden Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00-24:00. P­G­­B­6­W Dežman Bar Lined with fashion boutiques, florists and design stores, the intimate pedestrianized Dežmanova street is like a little piece of Paris pulled out of place and plonked down in downtown Zagreb. The Dežman Bar very much lives up to the prevailing ambience, with a chic and soothing coffee bar that serves exquisite cakes and snacks, a shrewdly-curated mix of wines, spirits and classy creative cocktails. QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, www. dezman.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. P­­T­B­J­ Landsky Bar Near the Zagreb tram depot at Ljubljanica, cocktail fans will find their favourite pilgrimage site. Apart from its unique design and some of the best cocktails in town, the name itself

28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

holds an interesting story. Paula Landsky was the first Croatian ticket inspector on trams who got hired during the First World War. Landsky bar is paying tribute to this exceptional lady who worked 12 hours a day, raised 8 children and lived to be 101. As you probably guess, the main design theme of the bar is the tram and the colour that prevails is blue – symbolizing Zagreb trams. QOzaljska 164, tel. (+385-) 097 683 40 16. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

Swanky Monkey Garden Let it be known that the Swanky Monkey Garden not only has a terraced courtyard café, from May on wards it opens its outdoor pool allowing guests to perfectly unwind amidst the serene garden. Voted as Croatia’s best hostel a few years back; highlights include the walls of the main bar which are papered with replicas documenting the buildings previous life as a factory.

There’s never a dull moment with events organised regularly which include live bands, acoustic sets, DJ’s, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups to festivals and more. Signature cocktails are popular and they change with each season. If in town, come to Swanky, and we’re not monkeying around! QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, www.swanky-hostel.com/ mint/index.php/menza-bar. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A­P­G­B­E­J­6­C­

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Arena Centar Arena Centar is the favorite shopping center in Zagreb and beyond because it is a safe, relaxed and friendly for all.

To keep it that way, we kindly ask our visitors to pay special attention to the preventive measures, procedures and recommendations we have taken at the Arena Centar due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Check the opening hours of the Arena Center at this link.QH‑5, Ulica Vice Vukova 6, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, www.arenacentar.hr/en/. Open 09:00-21:00.

Bashota The Bashota goldsmith family has been creating remarkable jewelry since 1924. Along with hard work, knowledge, skill, design originality and a wide range of unique models,they are able to satisfy every wish. The offer includes graceful coral jewellery, traditional items such as Licitar hearts, as well as many other symbols of Zagreb and Croatian history. Also at Ilica 69 (A-2). Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23. Open 08:00-13:00, 16:00-20:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. A bon ton store & gallery Bon Ton is a delightfully cosy boutique and art gallery combo. It doesn’t scream chic, it whispers it seductively.

Here you’ll find Paul and Joe, Paul and Joe Sister, to name but two lines, as well Essential Antwerp and Closed. The walls play host to rotating artists, so check out their website to see who’s being exhibited at any given time. Music plays a part in the art space, and if you’re lucky, you could find dj Hell launching their new colaboration project. QC‑3, Mesićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 500 20 56, www. bontongallery.com. Open 12:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. You can make an appointment in the show‑ room.

Bornstein This is a boutique wine store in town and it’s run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement.

Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC‑1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, www.bornstein.hr. Open 10:0020:00; closed Sun. A Cerovečki Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30-19:30; Sat 08:30-14:30; closed Sun. A Charlie design Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. Friendly staff.QD‑2, Vlaška 47, tel. (+385-) 091 455 44 16, www. charlie-design.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. From August 23 Open 10.00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Grab a Book Bookara Bookara is a neighborhood bookstore and sells quality fiction, science fiction, comics, popular science, philosophy, top journalism. They also offer a board game program, and nurture an individualized approach and are interested in what their customers want to read.QMaksimirska 39, tel. (+385-) 091 510 86 34. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun. A Fraktura The Fraktura bookshop was opened in 2020 by the successful family-owned Fraktura publishing house as a place where literature and reading to be nurtured by people with a true love for the written word, and as a place where such people can meet, chat and find inspiration for the best titles to read, both from new talent and established names.

The interior design is wonderfully creative and calming, making this a truly inviting home for booklovers. QUlica kneza Mislava 17, tel. (+385 - 1) 335 78 63, www.fraktura.hr/. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Planetopija This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QB‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. From August 23 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A­J Upi2m Books Upi2m bookstore specializes in books from the fields of architecture, construction, design and art, but also other scientific and professional fields. the bookstore specializes in books from the fields of architecture, construction, design and art, but also other scientific and professional fields.

QMedulićeva 20, tel. (+385 - 01) 492 13 89, www. upi2mbooks.hr/. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 10:0014:00; closed Sun. August 02 - 20 Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat & Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2021 29

Shopping Dancing Bear The best place for real music fans with a grand choice of vintage vinyl and CDs. Accessories such as music motifs printed on shirts, mugs, wine openers and the likes are abundant too.QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0019:00; closed Sun. A Fashion Boutique Dora Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs.

Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J

Fierce Women Archives

Cloud&Co A brand that has existed for a decade Cloud & Co. has only recently decided to open their own city centre location. A quick look at what’s on offer will give explanation as to the name, with the jewellery on display prominently featuring crescent moons, stars, and clouds...stellar motifs indeed.

There are also semi-precious stones in use, and the metal used is silver or gold-plated silver. Necklaces can be converted into charm bracelets, with potential additions easily purchased as needed. If there has ever been jewellery you’d never take off, it’s here you likely bought it. Cloud & Co. QC‑2, Preradovićeva 9, tel. (+385-) 097 654 36 98, www.cloudandcojewelry.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena) and West Gate shopping center.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Ok‑ togon), tel. (+385-1) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A

Garderoba Concept Store Is fashion your passion? Then head to Garderoba Concept Store (which literally means wardrobe in Croatian) for a completely new range of clothes not to be found elsewhere. Its comprises of top Scandinavian brands which include ‘By Malene Birger, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Rodebjer amongst others. Purpose fully designed, the store is devoted to the concept of slow shopping and has three large wardrobes in the form of a spatial attraction. The attire seeks sophisticated minimalism in a multifunctional style. The lavish interior and quality staff make this shopping experience one to remember.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 770 11 77, www.garderobastore.hr/. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. From August 17 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.

Jasmina i lutkice A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, www.jasminakosanovic.com. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. N Jozef Gjoni They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 09:0020:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Kobali Beautiful hats.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385) 098 23 85 86/(+385-) 098 23 85 86. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 31

Shopping Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion, whether a special event, like a wedding, or for a simple casual night spent out on the town. These original adornments are a unique brand in Croatia and were created by local and international designers that used modern and innovative ideas to make the jewelry. Their use of various shapes and engravings, with precious stones and gems, result in a cutting-edge, yet sophisticated design.QC‑2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 553 06 49, www.lapidarium.eu. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Lutak Lutak is a little cottage industry making handmade toys.

It may not be the most shiny and modern,tucked away in the backstreets as it is, buthere you’ll find such endearing characters to capture your children’s imagination. If you’d like to support a local small business this is a great place to find utterly charming gifts for little ones.

QTuškanova 34, tel. (+385-0) 91 892 6084. The atelier is open 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 - 20:00 and you can al‑ ways call for an appointment.

Mara etno butik A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385- ) 091 112 23 52, www.etnobutik-mara.com.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:30; closed Sun. A Modus Designer dinnerwear of a modern design, expect to pay a pretty penny. Fancy.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 48, tel. (+385-1) 481 34 70/(+385-1) 481 34 89, www. modusdesignshop.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 09:3014:30; closed Sun. A Otvoreni atelier Lumezi Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.QJ‑3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicu‑ lar), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J

Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular) www.takemehome.hr

Top - niche perfumery Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven!

You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square.QTomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Top - niche perfumery Tomićeva 4 www.top.hr.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Vintage Zagreb

ies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

Karmavinil Did you grow up with a vinyl record in your hand? Remember those good old days, when all music was on vinyl? If so, then this store will revive some memories, as it is fully stocked with a lot of records (second hand, most of them original pressings) with many rarities that are hard to find anymore. Definitely worth a peek, with lots of music genres covered.QH‑3, Podgorska 3, tel. (+385-1) 363 36 85, www.karmavinil.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. From Au‑ gust 25 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Photo by Želimir Beštak

Britanski trg antique market Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

Dirty Old Shop The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, tshirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www. dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. A Free Bird We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300kn.QA‑4, Tra‑ tinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. Open 08:30-20:30; Sat 08:30-15:00; closed Sun. From 9kn. A Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with good-

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QC‑3, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www.ulicni-ormar.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. From 50kn.

A ­J­6

Ulični Ormar Nikole Jurišića 16 www.ulicni-ormar.hr.

Vintage Circus This local clothing brand was built around distinctive and unique clothing suggesting that something doesn’t need to be in fashion to be fashionable; refreshing to say the least. The clothes here are made in small series’ by fashion designer Lidija Bošnjak who focuses on detail, high quality materials, functionality and longevity.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 10, tel. (+385 - ) 095 911 16 22, www.vintage-circus.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. A

Getting Around buses While Zagreb has several smaller hubs and terminals for citywide public buses and trams, there is only one intercity terminal. This can be found to the south east of the city centre, on Avenija Marina Držića, best known as Držićeva. If you wish to get here from the city centre, i.e. from the main square Trg Bana Jelačić, just grab the first 6 you see coming from the west, in the direction of Sopot.

The numbers 2, 5, 7 and 8 also stop in front of the station, so consult our tram map! The 3, 9 and 13 will also run near, but you’ll have to get off and walk one stop further. The majority of timetables are online, with some like Flixbus having additional services listed only on their own site. Tickets can be purchased online and collected at any of 15 points within the terminal itself. If time is a luxury, you can also purchase tickets by phone and have them delivered to your doorstep. Be aware that there is a narrow afternoon delivery window. The coach service for the airport, Pleso prijevoz, leaves from here, every half an hour. If you’re only stopping in Zagreb, waiting on a connecting bus and have a few hours to grab dinner or a drink then you’ll find several cafes along the front of the terminal as well as the excellent Magazinska klet – Pri staroj smokvi to the rear on Strojarska cesta. Try the Leskovački voz (Leskovac ‘train’) while there.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.

Airport The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Airport, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/ person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

Franjo Tuđman International Airport Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Zagreb)QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www.zagreb-airport.hr.

trains The main train station can be found at the south eastern corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe, a series of parks that were built in the 1800s when this part of the city was considered the outskirts. Here you can find your train for local, national, and international destinations.

Access to the station is possible to the rear, where 34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

you’ll find a bus terminal servicing multiple suburbs across the south of the city. The history of the station might not be immediately evident, but should you find time to see the lobby of the nearby Palace Hotel you will see any number of photos documenting the myriad of Hollywood stars who passed through. You see, Zagreb used be a stop on the original London-Istanbul Orient Express, as featured in no small number of murder mysteries and spy sagas. Once there, you’re walking distance to the city centre, and a pleasurable walk too through three of the parks of the Horseshoe, Trg kralja Tomislava, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, and Zrinjevac. The latter two play host to several festivals through the year, while the nearest to the station turns into an ice rink for Advent. If you need to go further afield than the centre you’ll find tram numbers 2, 4, 6, 9 and 13 passing in either direction, while taxis can also be found out front.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 146 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Bus station on Kvaternik Square is also important because it connects Zagreb with the airport. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. A 4kn ticket (6kn from driver) is valid for short rides up to 30 minutes, a 7kn ticket (10kn from driver) up to 60 minutes. Tickets are available at kiosks and ZET store or from the driver on buses, and trams.

Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr. Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www. zet.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

25

Weekend Escapes

Photo by Ivo Dunatov

25 Weekend Escapes Whether your idea of a good time is visiting museums, lazing on a beach, hitting the slopes, or sipping wine in the countryside, you can check our list of 25 Weekend Escapes in Croatia that await you this summer / autumn.

With summer in full swing there is a lot to choose from. Whether it’s touring the Zagorje castles, cruising around the Karlovac rivers, indulging in local culture and gastronomy of Ozalj, immersing in the fairy-tales and legends of Ogulin, hiking in the mountains of Gorski kotar or sunbathing and exploring the coast, here’s a roundup of the best destinations for a superb weekend break in Croatia.

Zelina Wine Road, Photo by Mario Hlača, Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives

1. The Jewel of the Mura River Treasury of Međimurje’ (Riznica Međimurja) is a newly opened museum that presents the historical treasures and traditional values of the Međimurje region in a fun and interactive way through its multimedia exhibition divided into a few sections. Take a walk through the dungeons where witches, disobedient serfs and prisoners were kept, get to know the history of the notable Zrinski family and learn about intangible assets of Međimurje region including traditional crafts, customs and folklore, some of which have been preserved to this day. You will be swept off your feet by the Slavic myths and legends swarming with supernatural beings. Treasury of Međimurje is a place where the past becomes the present.

2. Waterworld Med dvemivodami (local dialect for ‘Between Two Rivers’) in the eastern county of Međimurje is a water-themed natural history museum that uses interactive exhibits to teach visitors about the need to conserve the natural environment, there’s also an ooutdoor play area.

36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

3. A Perfect Escape Zagorje is a picturesque region of rolling hills covered in vineyards and dotted with churches and castles all over the place. Serving as perfect haven for relaxation and contemplation, it is also a great destination for an active holiday. Whether you choose to enjoy its numerous thermal springs, get to know the local crafts in Kumrovec open-air museum, do a tour of the fairy-tale castles of Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor or simply go hiking, cycling & mushroom picking, Zagorje has it all.

Don’t miss out on the Museum of the Neanderthals in Krapina, one of the most innovative museums of its kind in the world, located on the actual archeological site. For an ultimate Zagorje experience, try Zagorje štrukli at Štruklijada festival and some of the great local wines at the Bedekovčina Wine Show. Those who love music and dance can chill out at the Hoomstock Festival that brings the best musical vibes to the region. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

25 Weekend Escapes

4. Weird Science Situated in a large sloping private garden, the Science Park in Oroslavje (www.parkznanosti.com) is a fun way to explore basic physics, with a sequence of interactive learning stations that help kids learn about mass and velocity, human senses – or simply have fun bashing things.

5. Harvest Love The grain boat ‘Zora’ is a replica of the boats that used to ply the Kupa river in the 18th century. This unique European attraction is going to take you back in time, show you how grain was transported by boats, along the Kupa and the Sava rivers. It is one of the three types of river boats of the Karlovac boatmen’s guild, the most prosperous town guild of the 19th century. Info at visitkarlovac. hr/zitna-lada/

6. A Day in the Country For a perfect day at the beach with a difference, the river Mrežnica near Karlovac is a great place to picnic on the lawns and enjoy a dip in a slow-flowing river: Belavići, with its grassy riverbank, restaurants and camp-site, is the place to aim for.

7. Dubstep Country The Dubovac Castle is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful monuments of medieval architecture in Croatia.

Built on a prehistoric hill above the river Kupa, it was named facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

after the dubs, the oaks growing on the surrounding slopes.

The castle changed hands many times throughout history and its current appearance is the result of a comprehensive restoration carried out during the mid-twentieth century.

Within the castle you will come across a museum and a nice cosy restaurant with a touch of Medieval times.

8. All Quiet on the Croatian Front The mid-Croatian town of Karlovac was on the front line during the Homeland War of 1991-95 and it is fitting that this national museum devoted to the conflict is located here. More precisely, it lies just off the main road to the Plitvice Lakes in the suburb of Turanj, the place where the main enemy advance was repulsed. The display is housed in an imaginatively renovated nineteenth-century barracks, first built by the Austrians and then pressed into service in 1991 by Karlovac’s Croatian defenders, who ironically dubbed the place ‘Hotel California’. Encased in a glass shell, the barracks contains a modern multi-media display detailing the military operations that took place here together with an account of what life was like for the local civilian population. Alongside a wealth of military hardware inside the Museum of the Homeland War, Turanj, Karlovac there is a stirring display of artillery pieces, aircraft and armoured cars on the lawn outside.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2021 37

25 Weekend Escapes 9. What about Second Breakfast? And lunch? And dinner?

If you have wondered where to spend the day packed with fun and delicious food, you have now found a perfect place. ‘Living room on the Kupa river’ is on till 31 August, providing you with great fun and lots of different activities.

After a refreshing swim in the river at one of many swimming spots in the area, sample some traditional dishes with a modern twist at the main Ozalj ‘riviera’. Try lamb in a fritter, veal tongue burger, ginger and bacon strudel from Jaškovo or Katarina Zrinska cake with a touch of white pepper. Rich and diverse gastronomic offer in the lush surrounding of the emerald river boosted by the rich entertainment program, is surely a winning combination.

After a good meal, don’t miss out on visiting the Old Town of Ozalj and its museum that hosts the paintings of Slava Raškaj, one of Croatia’s greatest impressionist painters who searched for inspiration in the lyrical landscapes of the Ozalj region – its lush gardens, water lilies, flowers, willows by the river, and local people doing their everyday chores. Her watercolors represent the highest achievement of Croatian impressionist painting at the turn of the century.

10. Tale of Tales On your way down to Plitvice Lakes National Park, make sure to take a detour to Ogulin and discover the home of fairytales and legends that will take your breath away. Ogulin was a birth place of the best Croatian children’s writer, Ivana

38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Brlić-Mažuranić. Visit a medieval castle in the centre of Ogulin and delve into Ivana’s stories at the House of Fairy Tales (ivaninaucabajke.hr). This special museum celebrates Croatia’s foremost writer of fairy tales with animated films, interactive games, and other innovative exhibits. More adventures? Then try to spend a stormy night on Klek mountain and maybe you get a chance to join the witches and fairies in their fiery dance. This was believed to have been their gathering place.

If you are after beautiful pristine nature, take a hike up to the top of Klek – the cradle of organized hiking in Croatia at the end of the 19th century. Don’t forget to visit Đula, the Ogulin abyss named after a local girl whose tragic fate is as striking as the abyss itself. On a hot summer day, make sure you freshen up in the nearby Sabljaci lake where you can indulge in various water activities. Round up your day with famous Ogulin sauerkraut prepared in many different ways.

11. What Lies Below The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction).

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

25 Weekend Escapes

Vidimo se u Ogulinu!

10.-12.09.2021.

12. Where the Wild Things Are To learn more about the big beasts of Croatia’s forests then head for the Large Carnivores Visitors Centre in Stara Sušica (www.centar-velikezvijeri.eu), where a multi-media display introduces you to the lives of the bears and wolves of the Gorski Kotar.

13. Roaming in the Wild A perfect place for spending a day in nature with family and friends. Golubinjak is located near the main road so it is easy to find and surprisingly peaceful despite the proximity of the highway. Beautiful large meadow at the entrance to the Park-forest, surrounded by tall trees that rise high above the white cliffs will simply take your breath away.

In 1955 the 51 hectare of Golubinjak area was declared a protected park-forest. The park-forests in this area emerged on the karst relief. Because of this, they feature not only forest vegetation, but also a variety of karst phenomena.

Golubinjak Park-Forest with its caves, rocks, sinkholes, stone bridges and other interesting formations, is a typical example. There is a walking trail through the forest which will take you to the Dove Cave and the Ice Cave whose refreshing temperatures definitely justify its name. At the beginning of the trail, you will come across the Queen of the Forest – the largest fir tree of Gorski kotar which is over 200 years old, with the height reaching 37 m which truly deserves the crown. At the entrance to the park there is a multipurpose grass-playground which is ideal for the facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

16.

outdoor games. You can also rent out a bbq area and have a fun day in the wild. Those who are not in the mood to do their own grilling may opt for specialties of the Gorski kotar cuisine served at the Park’s catering facility.

14. Unknown Klimt One blockbuster exhibition postponed from last year and now to be shown over the summer of 2021 is Unknown Klimt – Love, Death and Ecstasy, a look at the early years of the iconic Viennese painter of the Art-Nouveau epoch. One of Gustav Klimt’s early works was a trio of ceiling paintings executed for Rijeka’s theatre (now the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka) in 1888. These recently-restored paintings will form the centerpiece of a show which reveals a great deal about Klimt’s formative years, a period when he was still searching for his own style. Also on display will be rarely seen works by Klimt’s brother Ernst, and their colleague Franz Matsch.

15. The Good Spa Moment Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer continues to expand, the center now includes the application of contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or alleviate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.

Summer 2021 39

25 Weekend Escapes 16. Pining for the Fjords Cutting into the western coast of Istria is a wondrously beautiful inlet known as the Limski kanal or Lim Channel.

Popularly dubbed the Lim Fjord due to its resemblance to the Norwegian coast, it is in fact a 10km-long estuary of a local river, the Pazinčica. Edged by steep grey-green slopes that in places reach a height of 150 metres, this stunning natural feature is a popular target for boat trips from the nearby resorts of Poreč and Rovinj. One historical personality who is rumored to have come here on a boat trip and stayed is seventeenth-century Welshswashbuckler Henry Morgan, whose alleged descendants live in the village of Mrgani above the fjord’s northern rim. The Italian adventurer and teller of tall tales Giacomo Casanova briefly stayed at the nearby hillside town of Vrsar, noting the region’s “good wine and beautiful women” in his memoirs. By way of tribute to the Venetian charmer, a popular biking trail from Vrsar to the Lim Fjord is known as the “Casanova Way”.

The Fjord is also famous for its oysters, which are served in a couple of renowned restaurants down by the shore.

Lim’s fjord-like features were put to good use in Hollywood Viking movie The Long Ships (starring Richard Widmark and Sidney Poitier), filmed here in 1963.

17. Lawrence of Dalmatia Sinj is not the only place to have preserved an ancient contest for horse and rider. The Istrian village of Barban still celebrates its equine traditions with the annual Trka na

prstenac or “Race for the Ring”, in which locals and their steeds attempt to spear a specially-designed ring on the end of a long lance. The age-old ritual is celebrated in this brand-new multimedia Visitors’ Centre (Barban Multimedia Centre), where video films and 3-D technology help you to “experience” the race yourself. Entrance to the display is through a dramatic tunnel of lighted hoops; elsewhere costumes, photographs and local artefacts help bring out a sense of place. inside tips: Hotel Peteani - Labin Gourmet experiences of the Lim Fjord - freshly caught oysters, mussels in the Viking and Fjord restaurants on the bay.

Romuald’s Cave in the Lim Fjord is a carst phenomenon and a habitat of a large bat colony.

18. The Tomislav Crown Affair The renovated Deputy Palace opens this October, housing the Art Fine Gallery on the second floor with the permanent collection of 20 & 21st century art. The Palace will also host the exhibition of Ratko Petrić this autumn.

The retrospective exhibition which opens this October in Deputy’s palace - Zadar will present a cross-section of Ratko Petrić’s entire oeuvre. Sculptures, models, posters and printed matter, works on paper and archives and multimedia content by this great author from Zadar will be on

Science Park Archives

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

25 Weekend Escapes

display. The central theme of his artistic opus is man and his destiny. Extensively using irony, sarcasm and grotesque, he questioned the socio-political, cultural and artistic phenomena of his time in a very fresh and lucid way. Many of his sculptures and monuments can be seen in public spaces, mostly in Croatia, but also in Austria, Germany and Slovenia. inside tips: Hotel Art Kalelarga - arthotel-kalelarga.com Our suggestions for where to eat would be: Maguro Zadar, Pjegula, pijat i pot Vrsi, Boškinac Pag and don’t miss Art kavana Zadar for dessert.

Before you head home you will of course need to catch a great sunset to post on Instagram. Head back to the Sea Organ or, after bathing at Punta Bajlo enjoy enjoy sipping a drink at Tequila Sunrise and watching the spectacle of the world-renowned Zadar sunset.

19. Šib, Šib, Šib it off Seize the opportunity to enjoy a number of fantastic concerts at St Michael’s Fortress this summer! Some big names in the world of music, such as Asaf Avidan, Black Pumas, and well-renowned Croatian bands, including Daleka Obala, Let 3, and Neno Belan to name just a few, will perform in this unique setting. Given that the number of seats is limited, make sure you check their website: www.tvrdjava-kulture.hr/hr/program/2021/ for more information.

Electronic music fans will surely choose to stop by Martinska facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Beach, located on a peninsula opposite the Old Town, that has a circular ferry connection (running in July and August). Punk music lovers will roam the Kanal Festival on Martinska Beach from July 23-24, while Project Hangar 303 (July 24-25) at the Šibenik army barracks will definitely intrigue the underground techno music fans. For more details on the latter event, check their website: //projectvojarna.com/. The Azimut Club which serves some of the best coffee in town, offers a great summer program packed with various events and concerts. For more information, check out their website www.azimut.art.

20. An UnFaustian Bargain In coordination with the Faust Vrančić museum this summer, visitors can set out on some new and exciting adventures by taking an educational tour Inspired by Faust - a great way to spend a day out and about. Take a boat to Prvić island and get acquainted with Faust Vrančić – a philosopher, lexicographer and inventor who marked the 16th century. Faust invented the parachute, olive mills, grape presses and sundials, to name just a few.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Prvić, home to the Faus Vrančić Memorial Centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions.

Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!, Prvić Island, mc-faustvrancic.com Summer 2021 41

25 Weekend Escapes

Paragliding, Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives

Ogulin Tourist Board Archives Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives

25 Weekend Escapes

inside tips: Our suggestions for Gourmet experiences would be: Baraka Winery, Pelegrini, Boba Murter and Konoba Vinko.

Visit The Meštrović Family Mausoleum - Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer.

21. Living la Via Brattia Via Brattia, a 140 km-long hiking trail, encircles almost the entire island of Brač making it an exquisite tourist attrac­tion.

The trail connects the 12 most attractive historical loca­ tions and some of the most picturesque places on the island, challenging the recreationists and mountaineers who can collect stamps at each of the 12 points. The trail passes through the center of Supetar, Mirac, Sutivan, Bobovišća na moru, Ložišća, Milna, Murvica, Bol, Sumartin, Povlja, Pučišća, Postira, Škrip, and some of the island’s most beautiful beaches and bays (Zlatni rat, Farska, Mur­vica, Lovrečina, Smrka, etc.) Since the trail is circular, it is marked both ways and you can start your hike from any of the above-mentioned settlements, simply by following the blue-white blazes. If you decide to do the whole trail, it would be wise to plan a sleepover at some of the small towns on the map, where you can stock up on water and food supply. There is a map of the trail that will come in handy for all who decide to take up the challenge. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Find the route map in the tourist information centers of the island of Brač.

22. Always Look on the Bright Side of Hvar The island of Hvar represents the glamourous side of Croatian tourism, the place that attracts the swishest yachts and the most beautiful party people. This is an image largely based on the island capital Hvar Town. In fact there is a lot more to the island, and people seeking a mixture of natural beauty and relaxing contentment will find that there’s a lot more to explore. The south side of the island in particular is a world apart; an isolated realm of steeply sloping vineyards and enchanting, under-commercialized beaches. The south coast is approached through a narrow road tunnel whose jagged rock-hewn appearance is enough to scare off many a recreational driver. Waiting on the other side are family-friendly pebble beaches at Ivan Dolac and Zavala, a lot of isolated coves, and plenty of apartment accommodation for people who want a share of paradise but without the crowds and the loud music. This part of the island also produces the richest grapes and the best Plavac wine, something to remember when visiting the modest scattering of quaint restaurants and bars.

www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2021 43

25 Weekend Escapes 23. Mountains High Situated on a karst plateau well to the east of the Adriatic coast, Imotski is a historic market town full of stone-built houses and tranquil alleys. It is famous for an astounding pair of natural beauty spots right on the outskirts of town, the Blue Lake (Modro Jezero) and Red Lake (Crveno Jezero). Both are situated in deep limestone depressions which fill with water during rainy periods and drain almost dry in especially hot summers. The Blue Lake is a designated nature park, with well-kept paths spiraling down to We suggest you explore the beaches and towns of Brela and Tučepi on the Makarska Riviera

Tučepi Tourist Board Archives Brela Tourist Board Archives

the shore and the possibility of taking a swim in the turquoise waters at the bottom. There is a lot of apartment accommodation in the area, and if the stark beauty of the Dalmatian interior appeals, this is the ideal place to enjoy it. inside tips: Our suggestions for Gourmet experiences would be: Zoi (Split), Lešić Dimitri, Konoba Mate (Korčula) The peak of Sveti Ilija, above Rastovac village in the Biokovo mountains, offers an unforgettable 360 degree panorama in this magnificent coastal range.

24. Valleys Low Travellers venturing down the coastal highway south of the Makarska Riviera tend to press on to Dubrovnik without stopping, which might indeed be the biggest mistake of their holiday. Dazzling motorists as they descend towards Ploče, dashing past the greeny-blue waters of the Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera), a group of seven little-explored watery expanses that sit on a karst plateau surrounded by attractively knobbly hills. Snuggled up behind meadows and rushes, these crystal-clear freshwater lakes make refreshing spots for a swim and a stroll. Linking the seven lakes is a network of foot- and bike-paths.

Other activities include boat trips in traditional lađe (the shallow wooden boats specific to the Neretva region), or taking to the waters aboard kayak or paddle board. The fact that such an attractive and compact lakeland area can exist so close to the coast comes as a big surprise to many; so big indeed that they don’t bother to stop, leaving the area for true lovers of Mediterranean tranquility.

25. Bridge Over Troubled Waters A spiny finger of land topped by a mountain ridge, the 65km-long Pelješac peninsula stretches northeastwards into the Adriatic from the famous oyster-farming town of Ston. The peninsula is not exactly unknown to tourists but it is far from being over-exploited, offering a plethora of niche locations and little-traveled corners. The main town is Orebić, a beach resort of some popularity on account of its expansive pebble strands. However Orebić remains a family-centred resort rather than a raucous hotspot, and the beaches are big enough to accommodate everyone without too much of a crush. Viganj, west of Orebić, is popular with the windsurfing crowd on account of its channeled breezes, but most of them stay in campsites, there is no line of hotels dominating the shore. Beach connoisseurs will love the fine crescents of shingle tucked away in hidden places like Trstenik, Žuljana and Divna.

Above all Pelješac is famous for its wine, with the peninsula’s steep south-facing slopes yielding some of the best reds in the country. inside tips: You can experience such a moment at the Antunović family smallholding in Kuna Pelješka where you can eat excellent spit-roast lamb and food baked under an iron lid.

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Summer 2021 45

Biser Zagorja Archives

Zagorje EDEN Destinations Just north of Zagreb, on the other side of the Medvednica mountain, lies a pristine green region with rich cultural and historical heritage. It is crisscrossed with rivers and streams, crowned by picturesque hills, and has many traditional wine cellars and beautiful vistas. Here you can experience the authentic country life undisturbed by the usual city chaos, hustle and bustle. Zagorje region is the traditional part of Croatia where many of the customs are preserved; where the food is of superb quality and completely organic. It is a magical place that alleviates tension and stress, a place where one can relax and recharge batteries.

So, what is it that attracts us to Zagorje?

Besides the highest concentration of castles in Croatia and a number of great wine cellars, Zagorje abounds in Thermal Spas and Wellness. Some of these thermal springs have been in use since the Roman times. The healing powers of the spas are believed to cure or ameliorate the symptoms of many ailments, thanks to their unique mineral content.

The three top ones listed below are proud owners of the European Des-

tination of Exellance title and are recognized as EDEN destinations.

Terme Tuhelj, Krapinske Toplice or Stubičke Toplice all provide wellness retreats with healing properties of their own springs. There are numerous accommodation options in the area, ranging from modern apartments or houses near the tourist centers, to households in secluded areas amidst the beautiful natural surroundings, serving as a perfect escape from the city hustle and bustle.

You may also look up the exclusive Terme Tuhelj Glamping Village.

Tuheljske Toplice (thermal spas) The Water Planet of Terme Tuhelj is the largest swimming pool complex in Croatia with many water attractions. Accommodation is offered in a 4-star Hotel Well that comprises spacious rooms, a sauna & jacuzzi and an amazing Aqua Park surrounded by a lush landscape of rolling hills.

Krapinske Toplice (thermal spas) Krapinske Toplice with its wellknown thermal spas is nestled in a beautiful valley, close to the Slove-

nian border. It is popular because of its numerous health care facilities with water rich in calcium and magnesium content, that treats everything from spine conditions to diabetes and heart disease. It has a new Aquae Vivae water park, a spa centre with saunas, and a restaurant. You can stay at the Hotel Villa Magdalena, the first exclusive, small four-star hotel boasting luxury units in Zagorje.

Stubičke Toplice (thermal spas) The first spa resort dates back to 1811 when the Bishop of Zagreb, Maksimilian Vrhovac, financed the construction of the building in Stubičke Toplice with an indoor swimming pool which was later named after him, “Maksimilianeum”. Today it is a prominent spa and rehabilitation centre, equipped with modern medical equipment for providing quality physiotherapy services and medical rehabilitation. The accommodation facilities include the Special Hospital with three interconnected facilities and a capacity of 267 beds and the hotel Matija Gubec 2* with an indoor pool and a restaurant serving local specialties.

Zagorje awaits! #experience

#explore

#taste

#enjoy

www.visitzagorje.hr

Zagorje

Street register

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1

Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4

Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2

Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

www.inyourpocket.com 50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com