Zagreb In Your Pocket No 60

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB June - July 2011

A feast of folk culture: it‘s time for the International Folklore Festival

It‘s our 10th birthday!

Celebrate with us...

N°60 - complimentary copy

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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

COntents

5

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

8

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

9

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

10

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

11

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay

24

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

28

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome CafĂŠs Easily the best scene in the world!

33

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

36

What to see

40

All those things you mustn’t miss

The first ever Zagreb In Your Pocket: in stereo, and full colour.

Mail & Phones

47

Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

48

Save on shoe leather Transport map

51

Shopping

52

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

56

Bowling or Pilates

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support

60

Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

61

Maps & Index Street index City centre map City map Country map

63 64 66 67

In summer time there are all kinds of activities at Jarun lake, including sport and fun to keep the munchkins happy.

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June - July 2011

6

FOreWOrD You never forget the first time you arrive in Zagreb, especially when it's the middle of a freezing February, it's one o'clock in the morning and the hotel you thought you had booked a room at tells you it's full up and that you need to go somewhere else. 'Can you recommend another local hotel,' you ask. 'No,' comes the less than helpful reply. It was at that moment however that I realised this was a city that could do with an In Your Pocket guide. That, after all, was why I had ridden into town. And just six months later of course Zagreb In Your Pocket hit the streets, with a cover to relish: the flowers of Tomislavov Trg in full bloom in front of the Pavilijon. It's amazing that the past decade has passed so quickly, even more amazing to think how Zagreb - and Zagreb In Your Pocket with it - has changed. Back then we could list every single restaurant, bar, pub and club in the city: to do that now we would need a book as thick as the bible.

Yet some things never change (we still rent the same office as we did when we opened up shop, for example). Zagreb is still unfairly bypassed by way to many visitors on their way to the coast, something Zagreb-fanatics like ourselves consider sinful. For to miss out on Zagreb is to miss out on one of Europe's great party cities. There is tons to see and do here, and we like to think that we've contributed in our own small way to making it so. We've certainly never stopped flying the Zagreb flag, telling anyone who will listen just what a great place this is and how they need to get here immediately. Neither do we intend stopping doing just that anytime soon. Zagreb In Your Pocket - now far more than just a print city guide of course - we are on the web, and on the iPhone - is here to stay. Our irreverent manner and down-to-earth writing may not be to everyone's taste, but after a decade as the city's best guide we are entitled to think that we must be doing something right. We are part of the Zagreb furniture.

See you in another 10 years.

Craig Turp Editor-in-chief In Your Pocket City Guides

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Published 6 times per year

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In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This year will also see the first non-European Pockets rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique.

We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher / Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover Vidoslav Bagur (International Folklore Festival) Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ArrIvInG In ZAGreB Tourist information



Tourist Information Centre C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@ zagreb-touristinfo.hr, w w w.zagrebtouristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area and at the Main Train station.QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.ured@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus

Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane

Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities.

The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

BAsICs

complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200kn (start 25kn, 1km/7kn, luggage 5kn). If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train

Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr.

Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Customs

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here.

However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other.

Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy.

The high est peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and BosniaHerzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel.

456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

75

10

50

0

25

-10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

0

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald’s Big Mac 17.50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free ) 10,06kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,30kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.37 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.36 €1.26 €0.41 €1.37

Exchange rates (as of 06.06.2011.): US$1 = 5,15kn €1 = 7,46kn £1 = 8,39kn

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HIstOrY

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe.

9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir.

1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne.

1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire.

1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city.

1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language.

1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire.

The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy.

1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with

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Culture & events neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”).

1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades.

1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre.

1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside.

1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live.

1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production.

1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final.

1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made.

1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation.

1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre.

The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile.

1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in.

1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy.

1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games.

The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city.

1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square.

1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close.

2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event.

2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January.

2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.

2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession.

2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

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Rock & Pop Concerts 14.06 Tuesday

Bring Me The Horizon & Architects

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. Metal mania returns to the prestigious Močvara Club.

Bring Me The Horizon is dubbed as being one of the most original newcomer bands on the scene with their deathcore style and lightning paced rhythms. They have won many awards and will be supported by close friends Architects whose lead vocalist Sam Carter featured on their recent album. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 140kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

27.06 Monday

Korn

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Korn is one of the rock/metal bands of the 90’s that virtually created their own genre in nu-metal. Raw, heavy and melodic, they return to Zagreb promoting their 9th studio album ‘KORN3’, a blend of their roots with modern refinement. Vocalist Jonathan Davis screams, howls and yet brings peace to their unmistakable new wave style. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 200kn available at www.eventim.hr.

29.06 Wednesday

SUM 41

I-3, Boogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, w w w.boogaloo. hr. One of Canada’s giant ro ck a c ts wh o many would say are in their prime. They fuse punk/ pop/rock and hardcore.

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The band has worked with Iggy Pop, Ludacris and even toured with Motley Crew. 12 million records later, long world tours, and a new album titled ‘Screaming Bloody Murder’, Zagreb finally gets its chance. They will be supported by the rising stars of Croatian music, Kinoklub, a radio phonic punk band which has recently won numerous awards. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

Tickets 150kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

03.07 Sunday

Apocalyptica + Father

I-3, Boogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www. boogaloo.hr. Most summer festivals across Europe will feature Apocalyptica but Zagreb is one of the rare cities where they will perform a club gig. Metal meets classical music is what they do, and they do best. The band is composed of 3 cello players, one drummer and a vocalist with most tracks instrumentals. Father are Croatia’s most famous metal act with an international fan base and are sure to have many loyal fans at this double whammy of a gig. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 180 - 200kn available at Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13).

05.07 Tuesday

Madball

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr.

Chaos reigns as New York based hardcore act Madball grace the stage at Močvara and are sure to break into an irrefutable sweat with their hardcore punk crossover thrash metal. They promote their latest album Empire to a legion of fans who have longed for their coming. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 120kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

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Culture & events

Culture & events Jazz&Blues Concerts 09.06 Thursday - 12.06 Sunday

2nd Zagreb International Blues Festival

Skunk Anansie

05.07 Tuesday

Skunk Anansie

H-5, Aquarius Club, Aleja Matije LJubeka bb, www. aquarius.hr. English rock group that has come, gone, and now returned in style! Lead by Skin, the vivacious yet fearless vocalist who sometimes makes you think her microphone is about to be torn to shreds, the band plays their greatest hits and also singles from their 2010 album, ‘Wonderlustre’. Their music is dubbed as Britrock and if you missed them last year, do not think twice now! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 190kn available at the Dirty Old Shop, Aquarius Music Shop, Sirius Music Shop.

06.07 Wednesday

Rosetta and City of Ships

A-3, AKC Medika, Pierrotijeva 11. Fans of the post-rock genre have a double whammy coming. US act Rosetta head to town with their added hardcore and avant-garde influences, not to mention cosmos type lyrics that may take you to outer space and back. They bring with them City of Ships, similarly dubbed as post-hardcore, which combine aggression with musicianship and intelligence. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

Tickets 60kn.

06.07 Wednesday

Suzanne Vega

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. As part of the Zagreb Summer Nights Festival, chill with the soothing sounds of this American singer and songwriter known for her eclectic folk-inspired music.

Vega did experienced world fame in the 80s with two Top 10 international hits in ‘Luka’ and ‘Tom’s Diner’. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 200kn.

Hard Place, Šubićeva 55/1 / Roland Gallery, Zvonimirova 13 / Student’s centre, Savska 25, info@zibf.info, www.zibf.info. Capture the essence of Blues with two world renowned musicians gracing the stage. Headlining is the famous harmonica player and blues singer Charlie Musselwhite who has a 40 year career behind him as well as Big Daddy Wilson with his soulful and bluesy voice. This musical treat is capped off with some home-grown talent performing and also includes a workshop and film screening.

Q Tickets 150 - 180kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

02.07 Saturday

Dr. John and the Lower 911

I-3, Boogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www. boogaloo.hr. Mac Rebennack is a US singer/songwriter/ pianist and guitarist. His stage name is Dr. John and he brings a stellar cast of musicians in his band Lower 911 to play their pop/blues/gospel/jazz/funk and R&B music. Weaving everything from his musical tapestry, fans may get to hear his renowned Mardi Gras favourites to classical jazz and blues tunes. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 290 - 500kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Classical Music Concerts 04.07 Monday

Symphony of the XXL Format

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Gustav Mahler’s Symphony number 8 is one of the grand masterpieces of classical music literature. Few argue of its extraordinary powerful presence and it is therefore appropriate for this grand event. Under the patronage of the Croatian president Ivo Josipović, this opera resembles the human spirit and that is why it fits the bill in celebrating 20 years of Croatian and Slovenian independence.

Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 60 - 200kn available at the www.ulaznice.com.hr.

11.07 Monday

The Casualties

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara. hr. Sure, you may lose your hearing for a few days but that is what this New York act is all about. Totally devoted to their punk roots, The Casualties are a four piece who scream, pour out their emotions, and allows audiences to stage dive and really bring back the energy of a true sweaty, push comes to shove fun filled concert. ‘We are all we have’ is their 2009 release and they tour constantly.

14.07 Thursday

The Pogues

D-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. By golly it is true, cult Irish punk rockers ‘The Pogues’ are performing with their original line-up in Zagreb. These gents broke onto the world stage in the 80’s via their political lyrics, Celtic/folk punk, and at times included Irish instruments such as the tin whistle.

Their shows were known to be energy driven with hits such as ‘Dirty old town’, ‘Irish Rover’ and ‘Fairytale of New York’.

Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 220 - 320kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

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Saša Martinović Kunović, Scrabble

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June - July 2011

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Culture & events Opera, Operetta & Ballet 13.06 Monday

Macbeth - Live from the Royal Opera House, London

Culture & events Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com

C-1, Movieplex, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77, info@movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. This famous Shakespearian play has all the elements of a tragedy; deceit, witchery, power, truth, majesty, and justice! Giuseppe Verdi, the libretto adapted the play into a 4 act opera and devotees can make the most of this one off event in a live broadcast from the Royal Opera House in London, shown in Movieplex. Q The show starts at 20:30. Tickets 100kn.

21.06 Tuesday

Giuseppe Verdi: The Troubadour

I-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 15, www.hnk.hr. Passion, jealousy, obsession, and revenge are all the elements rooted in this tale of love and affection. Verdi portrays these ever so well with the spectacular music and exotic locations on stage.

Dramatic vocal passages convey the powerful emotions of the storyline. Oh… the things we do for love? Q Opera starts at 19:30. Second show is the 27June. Ticket 80 - 150kn.

29.06 Wednesday

Ariadne and Bluebeard - Live from Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona

C-1, Movieplex, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17, info@ movieplex.hr, w w w.movieplex.hr. A tale of hope, perseverance and faith as a young Ariadne is destined to be Bluebeard’s sixth wife. The first five were said to be murdered but were otherwise found alive in dark treasure chambers. Her journey which also moves to darkness ends in tribulation. See this 3 act opera by Paul Dukas live from Barcelona and on the big screen. Q The show starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

Ivan Kožarić

Exhibitions 01.11 Sunday - 30.09 Friday

Memories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The commanding figure of ban Josip Jelačić is analysed as well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult figure and a symbol of Croatian independence.

28.01 Friday - 31.01.2012 Tuesday

08.04 Friday - 01.07 Friday

The Rocky Planet Earth

Photo exhibition: Jurij Gagarin

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. This exhibition consists of three collections according to the classification of rocks: Igneous Rock, Sedimentary Rock and Metamorphic Rock. At the same time, you’ll have the chance to learn about the origins of our planet, to witness the lava flows of Vesuvius and to get closer to rocks from outer space - meteorites.

A-4, Tehnical Museum, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Some of you may still recall the jubilation of the first flight of a man to the moon. That man was Jurij Gagarin, the famous astronaut who 50 years ago took part in this historical event. In his honour, this exhibit looks at Gagarin who became a world phenomenon and was the pioneer in space exploration. Roger that!

19.02 Saturday - 19.06 Sunday

03.05 Tuesday - 03.08 Wednesday

Medieval Torture Devices

The Life of Ceramics - A production in Ceramics from the Latenic culture

C-2, Archaeological Museum, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. This may send shivers down your spine with torture contraptions from the Middle Ages through to the 18th century on show. See the Iron Maiden, the torture rack, the Witch Chair, shameful masks, repenting ropes and much more. Such devices were used to cause severe injury, death, interrogation and humiliation. It is hauntingly wicked!

15.03 Tuesday - 10.07 Sunday

Pompeii - Life in the Shadow of Vesuvius

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. What was left of an ancient city that was buried alive by a single volcano? Its people, its life banished!

Prepare to be intrigued by 110 authentic artefacts from the mighty city of Pompeii. Plaster casts of bodies, ruins, photographs, and films depicting the life of that epoch will also be screened. To add that homely feel, a small additional exhibition, ‘Salona - The Croatian Pompeii’ by Joško Belamarić, will also be exhibited.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

18.05 Wednesday - 03.07 Sunday

Ruđer Bošković - Portret znanstvenika

A-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18. It is hard to believe that this physicist, astronomer, mathematician, poet, diplomat and above all Jesuit brother, came up with some of sciences most important theories including his work on atomic theory. His life works will be presented and the grand opening takes place on his birthday, May 18.

www.inyourpocket.com

T-Mobile INmusic Festival

Zagreb In Your Pocket

C-2, Archaeological Museum, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. During the Iron Age, the Latenic (Celtic) culture dominated the area between the rivers Sava and Drava. They brought some advanced potter y making technology which includes the pottery wheel and vertical ceramic ovens to our soil. See the entire complicated production process, the gathering and preparing of materials through to the modelling, decoration, and to the baking of ceramic pots and more.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2011

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Culture & events

Culture & events 01.06 Wednesday - 26.06 Sunday

Igor Kuduz - Photo-journal/documentation 2008 - 2011

C-2, Photo Gallery KIC Club, Petra Preradovića 5, www. kic.hr. The exhibition is based on a series from the author’s email address book, neatly numbered, dated and equipped with subtitles and sent at irregular time intervals. Some series of photographs have a dynamic character whilst others are listed by a certain conceptual or content pattern. The photos do not have any imperative or demand.

02.06 Thursday - 03.07 Sunday

The day when it was raining

I-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska ulica 2, gliptotekahazu@zg.t-com.hr, gliptoteka.mdc.hr. The award winning painter and graphic designer Boris Bućan is the author of many theatre posters, and he still continues to create his works in his original style of work which is based on the idea of concept; consciously neglecting formal and craftsman like elements of creation. See his works shine this summer.

03.06 Friday - 21.10 Friday

The Italian Pavilion in the world: Sabina Damiani and Igor Gustini

Dance Week Festival

31.05 Tuesday - 03.07 Sunday

Amela Frankl - The Well of Life

B/C-1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.mdc. hr. ‘Meštart’ started in 2009 with the goal of seeing the works of the great Ivan Meštrović in a new light, through contemporary art expression and to make it present and alive again. Through the simple and almost ritual gesture of moving around Meštrović’s sculpture ‘The Well of Life’, Amela Frankl expresses in her work a repetitive state of joy and harmony.

C-2, Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, www.iiczagabria.esteri.it. As part of the 54th International exhibition of the 2011 Venice Biennial; Zagreb hosts one of 89 Italian world Institutes which supports the works of Italian artists or those Italian by descent. Featured this year is photographer Sabrina Damiani who presents her images, graphics and collages whilst Igor Gustini’s submits his creative art installations.

08.06 Wednesday - 06.07 Wednesday

Aquarelles on scaffold

31.05 Tuesday - 31.08 Wednesday

C-3, Zagreb County Tourist Board, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, www.tzzz.hr. Rivers merge regions and the Sava River is not only seen as a flow of water which separates but rather connects artists from different areas.

The art colony is a group of artists who gather and work on various arts and crafts along the Sava and they will exhibit their works with even a floating exhibit in store.

Memories of Zagreb

08.06 Wednesday - 23.06 Thursday

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Enter a time machine and travel back with 9 photo albums showcasing our city from 1864 to 1895. Compare the then and now of urban development, architecture, city squares, the economy and life of the city, and the aftermath of the big 1880 earthquake. It also gives an impression of 19th century photography as well as a look ar some of our great photographers

New Names

C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, www.ulupuh.hr. Even the stars had to start somewhere and this photo exhibition is a platform for students of the Academy of Dramatic Art to showcase their talents. This yearly exhibition presents the works of students from both graduate and post-graduate studies over the last year.

10.06 Friday - 21.08 Sunday

Ivan Kožarić - Across the Line

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. Ivan Kožarić is an artist who defies the odds and refuses to be labelled and tagged by genre or style. In celebrating his 90th birthday on June 10, this exhibit will present over 400 of his works thus giving visitors the chance to witness a huge part of his opus; a true revelation, even for those who know his oeuvre very well. His works in paper and other media will be highlighted.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2011

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Culture & Events 16.06 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday

Zero Point of Meaning

C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Photography past to present! Works by 20 Croatian artists who began to work with conceptual art in the 1960’s and had captured their performances, ideas and concepts through photography.

The essence of photography as becoming a media for experimenting and research is exemplified with works by Josip Vanština, Tomislav Gotovac, Goran Trbuljak and others.

Culture & Events audience that gets involved and participates which explains this year’s motto ‘You too, are the festival’.

10.06 Friday

Mars Festival

I-3, Jedinstvo factory, Mochvara Club , Trnjanski nasip bb, www.marsfestival.net. Q Tickets 200-260kn available at the Dallas music shop, Dancing Bear, Dirty Old Shop, Rockmark, www.eventim.hr.

Special events 16.04 Saturday - 18.10 Tuesday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

D Day (Design day)

11.06 Saturday - 12.06 Sunday

D Day (Design day)

K-3, Stara klaonica, Heinzelova 66, www.dan-d.info. How divine is DDD Design? Creative thinkers, this international festival of design presents numerous regional designers working in the area of industrial design, self-initiated and pre-ordered designs, visual and fashion design and more.

It includes lectures by international experts, commercial D market, a D party, presentations, film screenings, and designer workshops.

18.06 Saturday - 18.06 Saturday The Changing of the Guard

16.04 Saturday - 25.09 Sunday

The Zagreb Time Machine

Zrinjevac Park, Upper Town, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life...once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.

27.05 Friday - 03.09 Saturday

Strossmartre - The 11th Summer on Stross

B-2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lorščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!

08.06 Wednesday - 12.06 Sunday

Cest is d’ best

C-1, Square Jelačić, Flower Square…. Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Terrence McNally and David Yazbek: The Full Monty

C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 26 57, www.komedija.hr. The heatwarming, comic tale of six men with nothing to lose, except their dignity, when they turn to unusual means to tide themselves over hard times.

Originally a hit film, it first came to life as a musical in the Old Globe Theatre, San Diego in 2000. Musical starts at 19:30.

Q Tickets 60 -120kn.

21.06 Tuesday

Fete de la Musique

Petar Preradović Square (Cvjetni trg C-2), Zrinjevac Pavilion (C-2), St Blasius Church (C-1). The French titles keep coming up as this traditional event is dedicated to the celebration of music. It promotes a range of musical performances by both professional and amateur musicians.

So let the festival begin. Ohhh… set at numerous venues around town.

27.06 Monday - 05.07 Tuesday

Euroka z - International Festival of New Theatre

Theatre ITD (A-4) Savska 25, Theatre Gavella (B-2) Frankopanska 8-10, Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, Croatian Nathional Theatre (B-3)Trg maršala Tita 15. For the 22nd year running, see contemporary theatre through dance, other artistic performances and phenomenon such as ‘iconoclastic theatre’, post-mainstream, body art and contemporary circus just to mention a few… Local and international productions are abundant. See the schedule!

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2011

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Culture & events 28.06 Tuesday - 11.07 Monday

Park-in-Zagreb

D-1, Ribnjak Park, www.parkinzagreb.com. Love the outdoors with some fine entertainment; attend this music and entertainment festival which offers a diverse program: concer ts, theatre shows, workshops, exhibitions and performances…local and foreign artists present their work in a relaxed atmosphere.

Culture & events folk culture in Croatia. In this year’s main programme of events, folklore societies and groups of emigrant Croatians from other continents or other European countries will showcase the ways in which they nurture and present their traditional music and dance. Alongside them, selected folklore societies from Croatia and around the world will be performing. Free entry.

Performances by artists every day on Trg bana J. Jelačića at 10:00 and 20:00 and on the Gradec open air stage, Friday - Sunday at 21:00.

For the Kids 18.06 Saturday

Hillary the Witch goes to the Opera

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 15, www.hnk.hr. A witch is haphazardly introduced to the world of opera, a world filled with passion, joy, sadness and anger, as only opera can do. Experience her journey with magic, witchery, charm and tension as playwright Peter Lund successfully shapes the musical taste of the younger generation. Performances at 11:00.

Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 10 - September 6. Admission 10 - 40kn.

Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja Park-in-Zagreb

01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday

Fireworks Festival

J-4, Lake Bundek, www.vatrometi.com. What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the on-ground entertainment whereas the fireworks, which are held every evening, will set the sky alive.

05.07 Tuesday - 27.07 Wednesday

Zagreb Summer Evenings

Atrium Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg 4, Gradec (C-1). For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concer ts performed by renowned Croatian and international musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb’s Lower and Upper Town.

20.07 Wednesday - 24.07 Sunday

45th International Folklore Festival

Jelačić Square, Gradec, tel. (+385-1) 450 12 00, www. kdz.hr. The International Folklore Festival is the most highlyregarded events showcasing what may be termed authentic

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava.

Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb,

tel. (+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr.

Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji

Strossmartre

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, info@ brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

Art Deco in Croatia The exhibition “Art Deco in Croatia in the Interwar Period” at the Museum o f Ar ts and Cra fts in Zagreb has been so well received both at home and abroad that it has been extended until 28 August 2011. This gives Art Deco, Tanjur, Rene Lalique tourists visiting Zagreb over the summer the chance to see one of the most popular exhibitions here in recent years, while students and art lovers can still arrange their trip to Zagreb to visit the exhibition.

By the end of May 2011 more than 45,000 people had visited the exhibition.

You can see over 750 art works including paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied ar ts featuring fas h i on a n d fu rni tu re Art Deco, Plakat 31. design and more. It has zagrebačlkog zbora been written about by France’s Le Figaro and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanish-speaking world as evidence that the “roaring twenties” was alive and kicking in Croatia too.

You can watch informative presentations on the Art Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays there are workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD or an audio guide.

Info at (+385-23) 488 21 11, (+385-23) 488 21 25, www.muo.hr.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s

(Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-10kn.

Small galleries

International Folklore Festival

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

These are the places where you can find all kinds of intriguing exhibitions and installations run by various groups. It’s a dynamic scene - well worth checking out Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Art Deco, Sat i dva sviječnjaka

June - July 2011

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events Cinemas

Permanenta Gallery

Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 99. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff.

Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, www.hd-naiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of bright-coloured paintings.

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 42 47. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Buzančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

(+385-1) 614 01 90, czk-novi-zagreb@zg.t-com.hr, www. czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+385-1) 377 08 96, galerija.vladimira.nazora@kgz.hr, www.kvn. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija.zvonimir@ morh.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Movie buffs who devour block-busters or the latest 3D will find Cinestar and Movieplex the cinemas to attend. Those who prefer the alternative and independent productions ought to visit cinemas Europa, Tuškanac and the art cinema KIC. And believe it or not we are pleased to have our own documentary cinema called Dokukino! All films are shown in their original languages with Croatian subtitles.

Ticket range between 10 to 30kuna and you can book in advance at most cinemas. For all schedules check their web sites.

Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr.

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall.

QOpen 13:00 - 21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world docs. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 10:00 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn.

Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. Tickets for the Grič Cinema can be booked easily, every day from 8:00 - 22:00 on 487 28 88.

Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Tickets 15kn.

Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Tickets 20-25kn.

Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Tickets 10kn.

Culture Centres Austrian Cultural Forum B-2, Ivana Gundulića 3, tel.

(+385-1) 488 12 50, office@kulturforum-zagreb.org, www.kulturforum-zagreb.org. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

French Cultural Institute C-2, Bogovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 52 22, institut@ambafrance.hr, www. ifz.hr. Lots of cool artsy stuff. It’s worth a look-see and easily located in the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, tel. (+385-1) 619 50 00, info@zagreb.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/kroatien. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Cultural Institute C-2, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, iiczagabria@esteri.it, www. iiczagabria.esteri.it. Q Open: 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mediatheque: Open 13:00 - 17:00, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kic C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. With an internet caffe, music, video, gallery and all kinds of little events this is a great place to hang out. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2011

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WHere tO stAY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2,

tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton. com/zagreb. Every thing you’d expect from the worldrenowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile.

Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). POTHAR6UFLGBKDC hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/ zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). POTJHAR6UIFLGBKDC hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469

60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www. arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations.

Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDS hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (5 singles €85 - 140, 136 doubles €108 - 150, 5 triples €130 - 200, 3 suites €253, 1 Presidential Suite €480).

PHA6UFLGBKDS hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHere tO stAY As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. (+385-1) 460 91 11, fax (+385-1) 460 93 03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr.

The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their fourstars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (19 singles €120, 19 doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBK hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available.

Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGK hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q222 rooms (100 singles €135, 93 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400).

POTJHA6UFLGBK hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@fourpoints. com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBK hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000).

POTHAUIFLEGBKDC hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international. hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant.

If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (196 singles 900kn, 196 doubles 900kn, 7 Family Rooms 1300kn, 2 Business Suites 1300kn, 1 Superior Suite 1800kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3000kn).

POTHAR6ULGK hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant.

Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg.

Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away.

Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194).

PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info.

Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person.

Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555).

POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDS hhhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULG hhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €82, 29 doubles €107 - 116, 5 triples €145, 4 apartments €192). POTJHA6 hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn).

THABK hhh Galerija G-6, Pogačićeva 11, tel./fax (+385-1) 654 25 77, tel. (+385-) 098 23 62 22, hotel.galerija@zg.t-com. hr, www.hotel-galerija.hr. Convenient for drivers, close by one of the main entrance points into Zageb, Galerija is very new, well-equipped, and nice if you like contemporary styling.

If you don’t like pastel colours, you might be a bit frightened. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2011

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WHere tO stAY Kind and helpful staff. Prices include breakfast. Q18 rooms (6 singles €50, 10 doubles €69, 1 triples €89, 1 apartments €102). PHA6LGBKD hhh Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./fax (+385-1) 244 51 38, tel. (+385-1) 244 52 04, info@ hotelvilatina.hr, www.hotelvilatina.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park. Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°203 north up Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets.

Q25 rooms (8 singles 640kn, 14 doubles 720 - 800kn, 3 triples 800 - 980kn). PALGK hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the

WHere tO stAY singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGK hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, jadran@ hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location. No pets. Q49 rooms (26 singles €70, 18 doubles €98, 5 triples €121). PTJALGK hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €67 - 82, 83 doubles €85 - 110, 15 triples €90 - 120, 6 suites €120 - 145).

PTJHA6UIFGBKD hhh

Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b,

tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, r eception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-from-home that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-to-know fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a little things you need shop, cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, €17 - 55 per person.

PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original woodbeam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 16 dorm beds, €15 - 25 per person.

PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr. Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostel-away-from-home.

The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets.

Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILG hhh The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel. (+385-1) 600 36 00, fax (+385-1) 600 36 01, info@themoviehotel. com, www.themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj). There’s a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. Breakfast included. Q24 rooms (10 singles €55, 11 doubles €72, 3 triples €96). PAGK hhh

Budget additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, €14 - 16 per person. PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, w w w. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spiri ts are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40.

Q 30 dorm beds, €20 - 27.5 per person. P6NGW Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravniceyouth-hostel.hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youthhostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RW Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@ hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, a short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there’s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, €17 - 52 per person. JARUGW

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel./fax (+385-1) 611 10 62, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg.hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr.

Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €48, 9 doubles €69, 2 Family room €90 - 100). PAUG hh Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast.

No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBK hh Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one.

A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILVEGBK hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly English-

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

speaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb.

Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Eight are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €85, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey.

All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

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restAurAnts

Asian

Symbol key

Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre),

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

restAurAnts

N No Credit cards

Arabian Bazaar K-2/3, Radnička cesta 80 (Zagreb Tower), tel.

(+385-1) 618 73 89, info@restaurant-bazaar.com, www. restaurant-bazaar.com. Jump off the tram at Radnička and dive into Zagreb’s own Arabic dining oasis for one-of-a-kind blends of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine.

Let your senses rest awash in the dozens of spices enveloping each lamb and lentil delight. Ask your server for fresh flatbread and a delicate fruit or honey desert. Hugely popular for their cafeteria-style lunches and Saturday evening belly-dancing shows, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25 - 85kn). PA

tel. (+385-1) 461 56 79, opiumbar@opiumbar.hr, www. opiumbar.hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an advanced sign of civilisation). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (70 - 110kn). PA

Bosnian Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. (+385-1)

613 10 26, www.restoran-sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia.

You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. July 15 - August 15 Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15 - 220kn). PALB

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal.

Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.boccamarai.hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines.

QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn).

PAG Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALG

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 140kn). PTAEGB Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika. hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it’s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 120kn). PAG Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices.

The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac.

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn).

PALGB NK Trnje J-4, Trg kardinala Šepera 3, tel. (+385-1) 615 12 22, www.restoran-nktrnje.hr. A favourite for the locals because of its miniscule price and massive portions of pure and unadulterated plates of meat. Vegetarians will cry their eyes out here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

(30 - 80kn). PALGB Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of i ts star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn).

PALEGB Tač H-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, info@ restac.hr, www.restac.hr. Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking.

On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec.

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 - 20.

(40 - 120kn). PAILG zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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restAurAnts Tip -Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49.

A clear example of content over style, Tip - Top offers a very tasty spread for a minimum of kuna. This place is a local favourite, a spot for spirited conversation or an evening paper.

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAG Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94/ (+385-) 095 114 45 55, 095 114 45 56, info@trilogija. com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 125kn). PA

www.inyourpocket.com

restAurAnts Trnjanka D-4, Trnjanska cesta 31, tel. (+385-1) 611

96 85/(+385-1) 611 96 86, www.restoran-trnjanka.hr.

The lamb is famous and authentic as can be - be prepared to spend as much time hunting for the meat amongst the ligament and gristle as you do actually eating. Once it has been found it is undeniably tasty. The decor is forgettable.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (55 - 95kn). PALG

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 31 - August 8. PAG

Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden. hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www. orgona.com.hr).

11/(+385-) 091 222 54 44, www.restoran-kuhinja. com. Savor the understated pleasure of dining amidst tables packed with lunchtime locals where fast, friendly servers offerup generously portioned plates of ever-changing yet always mouth-watering takes on delectable classic cuisine. Try the full menu on a Friday or Saturday when it’s accompanied by live Tambura music. Whether for a daily lunch special or an evening out, the tastefully homey atmosphere of The Kitchen will guarantee you won’t want your first visit to be the last.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. August 1 - 15 Open 11:00 - 17:00.

(35 - 400kn). PAUVEBS

Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, info@marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15. (40 - 130kn).

PALGB Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11,

Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.

novarestoran.com.hr. Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 130kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, w w w. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn).

AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75. Finally!

A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

(28 - 35Kn). PNG

Stores Bio&Bio D-2, Jurišićeva 28, tel. (+385-1) 487 62 69, zg2@biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.com.hr. QOpen 08:00

- 20:00. Closed Sun. PA Garden B-2, Masarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 24 28, www.mojgarden.h. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Kuhinja K-3, Donje Svetice 46c, tel. (+385-1) 240 81

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 19:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn). PJAG

Italian Carpaccio C-2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482

23 31, carpaccio@ristorantecarpaccio.hr, w w w. ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines.

While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

(55 - 150kn). PJA

Il Secondo Avenija Dubrovnik 12, tel. (+385-1) 658

66 09, info@ilsecondo.hr, www.ilsecondo.hr. Exquisite tastes at affordable prices are as inviting for a quiet coffee for two as they are for family meals. This addition to the Boban family Italian restaurants has even included private areas for large parties and small children. Just a few steps from Avenue Mall, don’t miss this elegant home-away-from-home. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 120kn). PAGB

a great steak. Savor experiencing a truly local cuisine knowing that all ingredients are from near-by Kvatrić market. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 120kn). PAGB

Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-)

099 302 07 77, restoran.oliva@gmail.com, www. restoran-pizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 12kn).

AVB

Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn).

PAGB

Molto E-2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31, molto@

molto.hr, www.molto.hr. The gods of décor smiled as this combination of inviting atmosphere and delicious treats recently entered the Zagreb restaurant scene. The hide-away bistro just minutes from the main square is already a buzz with locals as a must-see spot to gather with friends or grab

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CAFÉs

restAurAnts The novelty in gastronomy The novelty in Zagreb’s gastronomy offer are donkey products (sausages, roast meat, milk etc.) in the restaurant 100% Istra (Gračanska 46).

Japanese Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, open 11:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed July 20 - August 20. (40 - 180kn). PG

Quick Eats City Kebab C-1, Tkalčićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 482 87 85. Real doner kebabs! An internet search for the history of the doner revealed the following delightful definition: A ubiquitous foodstuff synonymous with drunkenness, tack and dubious meat content. In other words - marvellous!

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Lari & Penati D-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati.hr. Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you’ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the lastest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 70kn). PAGBS

Žlica i vilica D-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+385-1) 457

27 70, www.zlicaivilica.hr. Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for? QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (28 - 60kn).

AGBS

Seafood Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483

49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peacefull greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights.

The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 130kn).

PJALEGB Gallo B-3, Hebrangova 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

PAGB

Steak Houses Mu steak & chop house I-4, Ulica grada Vukovara

72, tel. (+385-1) 631 00 90, info@mu-steakhouse.com, www.mu-steakhouse.com. Imagine a huge, open room filled with relaxing music, a woodsy décor, and an attentive wait staff done up in slick, black and white duds bustling about. Add on a solid steakhouse menu offering steaks of all kinds and the sides you like to go with them and you’ve got Steakhouse MU! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 130kn). PA6GBS W

In Your Pocket Video Guides

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket goes into the movie business...

Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Aquariusnet cafe D-3, Kralja Držislava 4, tel. (+385-1) 461 29 19. If you are on the way to an exhibition at the Croatian Society of Fine Arts, (also known as ‘Džamija’) and you’re craving that coffee break, then Aquariusnet is distinctly relaxing and somewhat cool. It is also a great place to shoot some pool. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.

The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why.

This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. Cup ‘98 C-2, Petrinjska 4. Paying homage to the Croatian achievement of 3rd place finish in the World Cup of the same year, Cup ‘98 is only a penalty kick’s distance away from the goal named Trg bana Jelačića. Give your morning a dirty slide tackle, and then dribble your way into the heart of Zagreb (just dont get any on your tie). QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GB Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 527 99 90, nik@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PG Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P In spe caffe A-2, Ilica 209, tel. (+385-) 098 664 41 02.

Get in early as it’s hard to find a seat for that morning coffee.

With great staff and a fine interior you’re guaranteed to enjoy your time here no matter what time of day you visit. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day.

The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kolding C-2, Berislavićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 487 24 88/ (+385-1) 485 20 48, kolding@zg.t-com.hr, www.kolding. hr. One of the best cups of coffee in Zagreb. The muraled walls will trick you into believing you are in Tokyo if you’re not zagreb.inyourpocket.com

careful. This recently renovated outdoors-indoors glass box of a café is the perfect place to hole up on a winter’s day, waiting for the café terraces to reopen in spring. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33.

What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top.

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. NEW

Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@

gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80.

Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout.

Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Pušlek - Cvjetni trg C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 76. Opposite Bulldog, there is a different kind of café which offers an entirely different experience. A socialist interior attracts plenty of visitors, especially intellectuals and students. In case you’re lucky to get a window seat, you can enjoy the slapdash of Zagreb street life. And please, make sure you have some change in case you need to visit the toilet to make “baka” happy! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign.

Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.

Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-stroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshlysqueezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Vimpi C-2, Miškecov prolaz 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 30.

Not wimpy at all. You’ll be thrilled with the music selection of classic rock and roll and blues, and then the dark wooden interior that most nearly suggests western saloon (a stretch, we admit). This is a great place to hang out after work and take in a pleasant conversation with friends. Just behind Cinema Europa so it’s great just before or after a movie.

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PB

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nIGHtlIFe Beer House There is booze to choose at the latest Beer House which has recently opened in Zagreb’s district of Trešnjevka (I-3, Gorjanska 22, www.kucapiva.com). Prepare yourself for some hard decision making as there are a staggering 113 different beers from 16 different countries.

nIGHtlIFe roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah!

QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front.

Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB

Bars Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva, info@pierottijeva11.

org, http://pierottijeva11.org/. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. There’s not much to it: two chambers of bare concrete walls, a scattering of chairs and sofas, and a makeshift bar. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. P Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@kset. org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 16:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed July - September. E Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00/02:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00/04:00, Sat 12.00 - 02:00/04:00.

Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking.

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. And if that’s not enough, muscle your way to the far side to see the city’s newest gallery space. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 61 71 683. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Closed August - August 14.

Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 26 12. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better!

Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89.

This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it?

Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.

PALGX

Clubs Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated

space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00.

Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere.

QOpen Tue 22:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. L

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny restaurant that works from 10:00-02:00. Private functions zagreb.inyourpocket.com

can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games.

The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

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nIGHtlIFe Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www.

sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed August 1 - 21.

Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.

com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.

Closed July 20 - August 20.

Local beers Croatia is blessed with some pretty decent locally brewed beers. The brew you’ll come across depends to an extent on which part of the country you are in, which is the local brewery and therefore the favoured local tipple.

However, you’ll find the leading Croatian brands Ožujsko and Karlovačko more or less everywhere.

How to order beer: ask for either a small or a large beer, or to be on the safe side, by the decilitre (“deci” for short).

In Zagreb a small beer is 33 dl, a large beer is 50 dl (half a litre). However, on the coast, where beer warms up faster, your request for a small beer may result in a miniscule 25 dl, while 33 dl is considered “large”.

This is the range of beers you’ll find in the average cafe or bar in the Zagreb area: Ožujsko a light lager beer, slightly bitter and, as with most Croatian beers of this type, a not inconsiderable 5.2% alcohol. Probably the most widespread beer in Zagreb since it’s brewed locally. Ožujsko Cool is the alcohol-free version.

Karlovačko another lager, probably no. 2 in Zagreb by sales and brewed in the neighbouring city of Karlovac.

The alcohol-free version is Rally.

Pan a relative newcomer which hit the market in 1997, made in Koprivnica, northeast of Zagreb. Also available in a non-alcoholic version.

Tomislav a rich dark beer also made in the Zagreb Brewery, almost approaching a stout in character. 7.3% alcohol, it kicks like a donkey.

Velebitsko a favourite beer of younger generations, available in light, dark and mixed (rezano) versions. Said to be particularly fine in flavour as it’s brewed using Velebit mountain spring water according to German purity laws. Not always easy to find in Zagreb but worth seeking out.

Medvedgrad a small Zagreb brewery purveying its ales through five of its own branded pubs. Choose between light and dark versions, mixed, extra strong and wheat beer (pšenično pivo).

Zlatni medo a microbrewery and pub on the corner of Savska and Vukovarska, offering light, dark and mixed beer.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Jarun lake Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun.

It has two separate floors with each with a different sound.

Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin.

Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Macao G-4, Jarunska obala bb. Who decided that cubes with no backs are comfortable to sit on? Have they never heard of indigestion? Nevertheless, these minimalist stools with their white cushions look very trendy against all that dark wood. Very much like all the others on Jarun. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.

NEW

Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462

92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB The Gallery G-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, Lake Jarun, tel. (+385-) 099 444 24 44, info@gallery.hr, www.gallery. hr. One of the nicest bars/clubs in Zagreb. Would you like a cocktail, or a bottle of champagne to drink while dancing to world famous DJs? QOpen Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

PAGB

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098

32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel.

(+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-) 098 193 12 81, khala@khala.hr, www.khala.hr. Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list

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includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PABX People’s J-3, Hektorovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 76/ (+385-1) 604 01 89, prodaja@victus-epulo.com, www. peoples.hr. A night out at this slick lounge and restaurant can move in several distinct stages. First, a selection from the quality menu offering Italian, Mediterannean and Asian Fusion.

Then, a move to the lounge for a selection from the immense champagne and wine list. Then, as the night progresses, a move to the huge bar in the center of the room as the place transforms into a happening night bar. All in all, a cool place to hang out in Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAK

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying.

The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed July 20 - August 15. NBX Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 93, dublinpub2003@gmail.com, www.dublinpub.hr. The ‘Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem.

Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Godot A-4, Savska 23, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 77. When you start begging the waiter for some bangers and mash (like mommy used to make) you’ll know this pub attempt has succeeded. It’s near to the student centre, thus the crowd tends to be on the young and hip side. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you’re not wearing your hottest gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large “pub” - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Billiards Balabushka J-3, Šubićeva 55, tel. (+385-) 091

508 43 98/(+385-1) 464 11 66. Cool pool room near “Kvatrić” named after the famous Russian cuemaker, with seven pool tables, two snooker tables and one for carambole. In true Slavic style, you can also sit down for a game of chess, as well as cards and darts - a treasury of games indeed! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.

Ground Zero I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 10, tel. (+385-1) 652 84 52, info@gzeroclub.com, www. gzeroclub.com. Fancy a game of pool? then head towards Novi Zagreb, opposite the Zagreb Fair. Ground Zero has 12 tables; there is a billiard school for children and adults as well as organized tournaments. To spark up the atmosphere, live pop and rock bands as well as DJs perform frequently in the evenings. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.

MB D-3, Draškovićeva 49. A handy little billiard club in the city centre, right by the Branimir Centre. Three tables plus a bar to refresh the punters happily misspending their youth. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. 40kn/h.

Mosconi K-3, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 70 05, info@mosconi.hr, www.mosconi.hr. Fear not if you find yourself in the middle of an industrial zone, for lo and behold you’re on the right track. This pool club has twelve top quality tables including snooker, and a good atmosphere to top it off! Not too many kids and friendly staff. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 40kn/h.

Ponti B-2, Masarykova 3/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 54. A lively little city centre bar with pool tables, darts and arcade games. Pool players can take their pick of seven tables, three of which are paid by the hour, and the other four are run by cashed in coins valued at 5kn per game. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. 40kn/h. PN

The Old Pharmacy Pub C-3, Hebrangova 11a, tel.

(+385-1) 492 19 12. The mix of great waiters, CNN, Sky Sports and surprising collection of English newspapers makes this place a chill hangout, perfect for business or pleasure.

Music doesn’t shatter your eardrums, rare in these parts.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PA

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WHAt tO see

WHAt tO see Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i

Kaptol Hill

obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn.

The oldest square in Zagreb is the square on Kaptol Hill, in front of today’s Zagreb Cathedral.

Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheatsheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city.

There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery.

Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 8kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Green Horseshoe St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works

by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on 22.10 and 07.11 at 12:15.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva.

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

(Zelena potkova) B/C-3/4. A forward thinking urban

planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the centre map you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shaped that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre, Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau building, The State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting.

Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

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605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon & holidays.

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 140,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, w w w.zet.hr. Qui te possibl y the shor test furnicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

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WHAt tO see

WHAt tO see visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@ etnografski-muzej.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. NEW

Marton Museum C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1)

483 87 00, www.muzej-marton.hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings or so and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej) The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg

Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@zg.t-com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) B-3, Trg Marka

Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Open April - November. Admission free.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hrskolskimuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 16, www.drazenpetrović.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff,

Parks

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

New homes Lions, reptiles and bears in the Zagreb ZOO will soon enjoy their new 5 star homes.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

bb. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun!

Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Home to the city zoo! www. zgzoo.com. Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.

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WHAt tO see

WHAt tO see Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-gradazagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

Zagreb Mummy

The Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) C-1, Kamenita bb. The oldest pharmacy in Zagreb, it’s a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much like a bar or café today.

C-2, Tr g Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perh aps th e most famous relic in Croatia is kept at th e Arch eological museum. The mummi fi e d b o d y from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bariin E g ypt in 1848-49: which you may think s e em s p er fe c tl y reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business b ein g across th e Mediterranean. The Archeological Museum in Zagreb Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indoEuropean, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than what her personal talents. After her owner face death it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar.

The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

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MAIl & PHOnes

WHAt tO see Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station.

QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed

Damir Hržina, Comet 17P/Holmes, Zagreb Astronomical Observatory

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485

13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr.

Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for peek at stardust. For organized touristic tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 30 33 33, zrinjevac@cityexpress. hr, www.cityexpress.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971.

In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.

Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They

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all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr.

In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h.

CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, http:// internetcentar.iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

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GettInG ArOunD Public transport SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via

SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time.

Buses tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-1) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Follow Zagreb In Your Pocket on

GettInG ArOunD Trains

Buses

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Taxi

Car rental

Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55,

Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 22 22 26/

tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385) 970, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 19kn flat fee plus 7kn/km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

Taxi Cammeo tel. (+385-) 1212, w w w.taxicammeo.hr. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction.

Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7.5kn from your balance. Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops .

Zagreb In Your Pocket

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz. hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 24hrs), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@avis.com.hr, www. avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

A Budget J-4, Pile I 1, tel. (+385-1) 455 49 43/(+385-1) 455 49 36, zgd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33/ (+385-1) 483 64 66, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa. hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A Smart A-2, Ivana Kukuljevića 32, tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, www.rentasmart.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, rezervacije@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK - 1987 J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. (+385-1) 661 19 99, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Call tel. 464 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road.

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi, the trip from town is approx 200-250kn or the cheaper option is with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www. plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Free Downloads There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this print version of our latest guide. We print guides in more than 60 cities across Europe, and In Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for free download, in PDF, at our website. A number of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPaper documents. Just visit our website at inyourpocket.com for all our available downloads.

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The Times

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 616 02 15, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, zag@czechairlines.com, www.csa.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lufthansa Pleso Airport, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours.

Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Guarded parking

“In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publisher’s website.”

Sueddeutsche Zeitung

Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage.

Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour.

Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3).

“The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon.”

International Herald Tribune

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Shopping centres & Malls

Gifts & Souvenirs

Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

09:00 – 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Cascade C-1, Tkalčićeva 88, tel. (+385-1) 640 05 90, info@cascade.hr, www.cascade.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Cvjetni trg, (+385-1) 487 43 96, cvjetni@ hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/soping-centar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

A’Marie

Sunday markets Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg.

Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products?

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25, 384 38 05/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@ bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea-racki@hotmail.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Q Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 30/(+385-1) 492 16 68, llumezi@inet.hr, www. nakit-lumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial.

Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

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sHOPPInG Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel.

(+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.com. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. Also at C-1, Skalinska 2a. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. A Pantheon B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 07, vinoteka.pantheon@pantheon.hr, www.pantheon.hr.

An excellent selection of wines, olive oil, homemade cheese and other fine delicacies to be found in one place. A perfect short stop for tasting Croatian products. If you seek that true holiday experience, make sure you visit their wine bar.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N Slavonica C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 29, kaptol@ecoslavonia.com, www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A VinAnima B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 03, vinanima@vinanima.hr, www.vinanima.hr. Look no further when it comes to a fine drop of wine as this great vino store is jam packed with some of today’s and yesteryear’s year classics, including port, cognac, sherry, rakija, olive oil and chocolate. Store owner Iva is a top class sommelier who ensures you will get an excellent wine that fits all occasions.

QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Hi, Fashion!

Even during the most unwelcoming of weather, a stroll through the city center leaves no doubt as to the unshakable appreciation for fashion found flourishing in Zagreb. Whatever the season, shop window displays readily come to life side-by-side with classics from bigone eras on the inhabitants strolling the city’s streets.

International fashion week favorites abound in shops citywide but what unique gems might the city hold for lovers of style? Local designers!

Croatian creations take center stage at Fashion Days in September and Dreft’s Fashion Week in November but many local designs can also be found in boutiques just minutes away from the main square year-round.

A recent interview with Designer Renata Svetić at her studio and boutique SVE (Mesnička 8) offered a glimpse into the exquisite quality and innovative stylings of Croatian design. While Svetić’s inspirations are global, her creations include a sense of the local appreciation for the fusion of urban life with seaside dreams. Her oneof-a-kind innovations include overcoats from local ships’ sails, delicate ‘Web of the Sea’ evening-wear, surprise pockets in all the right yet unexpected places and zippers designed into elegant curves along with all other manor of figure-flattering considerations. While she feels that “Inspiration is a moment,” her creations last a lifetime: Svetić’s wearable art spans from twists-on-a-modernclassic to bold and adventuresome; from daily wear to once-in-a-lifetime event regalia.

Look for additional Croatian designs in shops like A’Marie (Gundulićeva 19), Boudoir (Radićeva 22) I-GLE (Dežmanov prolaz 4), Prostor (Mesnička 5) and Sheriff & Cherry (Medvedgradska 3).

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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leIsure Health timeline 1355 The first time historical records mention a pharmacy in Zagreb.

1928 A pharmacy called “Kaštel” moved to Zagreb from Karlovac. In 1945 it was renamed “Pliva” Croatia’s most famous pharmaceutical company, bought by GSK in 2006.

1941 The big Rebro hospital in Zagreb was built.

1957 The first indoor swimming pool in Croatia opened, in Zagreb.

Fun in the Sun Summertime is when warm weather and sunshine lift our spirits and recharge our batteries. But summertime, of course, also brings its own health concerns: we hear how the ozone layer no longer protects us from the sun’s harmful rays, leaving us vulnerable to premature ageing and skin cancer.

While the advice is that we should avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, in reality many of us are likely to ignore this. It’s also possible to argue that the health and psychological benefits of being in the sun outweigh the advantages of avoiding it completely. So, suntan creams are vitally important in protecting ourselves, but recent research shows that the sun’s rays can start chemical chain reactions in the most common sunscreen ingredients, benzophenone and its derivatives oxybenzone and benzophenone-3. These reactions release huge amounts of free radicals – a well-known cause of cancer.

People with sensitive skin may also experience allergies to these chemicals.

The good is that there are excellent products which use physical rather than chemical sun filters, common examples being titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, both naturally-occurring minerals. However, other chemicals found in the most popular brands of sun creams can also react dangerously in the sun. The best choice therefore is

leIsure to use sun creams which contain only natural ingredients, for example, plant oils and extracts, which don’t react in sunlight, and are well tolerated by sensitive skins.

L’Occitane and Dr Hauschka make excellent quality, natural skin care products using only organically grown plant ingredients. Their sunscreens are effective and pleasant to use: containing essential oils, they feel fresh and cool on the skin, smell delightful, and leave the skin soft and supple.

Another summertime irritant which can be combated using natural products is mosquitos. Instead of using aggressive chemical repellents, try a few drops of a high quality essential oil of citronella or lavender in an atomiser to scent the room or terrace. Lavender can be used safely directly on the skin and smells deliciously cooling, as well as keeping insects at bay. If you are bitten, rub a drop of lavender or tea tree oil on the bite to soothe and disinfect the natural way.

Bowling Bowling 300 Zagreb Savska opatovina 36, tel. (+385-1) 387 90 70, info@bowling.hr, www.bowling. hr. Newly opened and boasts state of the art facilities. It’s located near the City Centre One shopping centre. The prices per lane vary from 75kn to 150kn according to the time of the day and day of the week. Children, students and those over 60 get discounts. Bowling shoes are hired and food and drinks are also available. It is possible to book online and there are pool tables at a rate of 42kn per hour. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

CityBowling Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra (Westgate shopping centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 11 00, citybowling@citybowling.hr, www.citybowling.hr.

Westgate shopping centre is where you’ll find this bowling haven. Lane prices range from 70 - 150kn depending on the time of day throughout the week. Fridays and Saturdays prices are 130 - 150kn. Shoes are hired and in addition pool tables can be played at 40kn per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun

14:00 - 24:00. A Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50, info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, w w w. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije.hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić Ozaljska 128, tel. (+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A Implant Centre Martinko Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko.com, www. implant-centar-martinko.com. QOpen Mon, Fri 09:00 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.

Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18, 091 386 25 25, www.zagrebdental.com, k.doblano@ inet.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Scents and Sensibilities

One of the great joys of a walk in the Mediterranean is the smell of herbs crushed underfoot against the salty tang of the air. For generations, we have recognized the health-giving proper ties of the Mediterranean environment. It’s not for nothing that people are sent to recover from allergies and illnesses by the sea; and the contribution of Mediterranean lifestyles to health and longevity is well known.

The cosmetics company L’Occitane was created in 1976

by Frenchman Olivier Baussan, who wished to distil and share the experiences of his childhood in Provence.

The company’s ethos encompasses health, sensory pleasure and social and environmental responsibility.

Products are formulated using ingredients as close to nature as possible, using botanicals (often organic) that are both an indulgence and can be safely used by those with sensitive skin.

Ma terial s for packa gin g are recycled and/or re cyclabl e, an d care is taken to select production pro cesses wi th minimal impact.

The company was a pioneer in Braille labelling, and has a Foun da ti on which funds projects in environmental sustainability, animal welfare and the emancipation of women around the world.

As we are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of choosing pure natural products both for the sake of our own health and that of the environment, the chance to enjoy products which indulge the senses while minimizing environmental impact is important indeed. So step into the magical world of Provençal scents and lavish textures with a clear conscience, and discover natural face, body and hair care imbued with the spirit of the Mediterranean.

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Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this.

Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 73 17 203, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. QOpen 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

leIsure

Sveti Martin Spa & Golf Resort Grkaveščak b.b.,

Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 31 50 02, info@ spa-golf.com.hr, www.toplicesvetimartin.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Terme Tuhelj Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuhelj, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 14, info@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Top Terme Topusko Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 16, Topusko, tel. (+385-44) 88 60 06, info@topterme.hr, http://topterme.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

Pilates Body & Mind Studio Pilates H-3, Ul.grada Mainza 24, tel. (+385-1) 349 04 33/(+385-) 091 541 39 09, studio@bm-pilates.com, www.bm-pilates.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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BusIness DIreCtOrY

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Language Schools

Accountants & Consultants

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16,

Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs.

Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs.

General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

berlitz@berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Numerous languages are taught with a communicative, well balanced modern approach. A universally recognized method that engages students at all levels. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Veterinary clinics Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs.

Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3 (C-2) tel. 481 61 98, Ilica 301 (A-2) tel. 375 03 21, Ozaljska 1 (H-3) tel. 309 75 86, Avenija V. Holjevca 22, Siget (I-5) tel. 652 54 25, Grižanska 4, Dubrava (L-2) tel. 299 23 50

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story….

Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home. Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrianfriendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as

Zagreb In Your Pocket

08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UBLI savjetovanje D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings.

British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia.

British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+385-1) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagr eb Expat Meetup w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

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Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Brokerage houses Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, auctor@auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50, hita@hita.hr, www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94, brokeri@intercapital.hr, www.intercapital.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31, brokeri@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes.

Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 40% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

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Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovi-

ćeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

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BusIness DIreCtOrY Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg

2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

street reGIster

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17 36, info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95.

Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in the Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

One stop shop for business!

A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr.

Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration.

2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made.

3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj).

4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava).

5 Choose a bank and open a business account.

6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, jet-set@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana-Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www. kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića Franje Račkog

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2 D-2

Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3

Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska Patačićkina Pavla Hatza

E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4 D-2 D-3

Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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