Zagreb In Your Pocket No76

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Summer 2014

Six of the best

Half a dozen Zagreb artists who have made their mark in 2014

Inside out

City parks come to life!

N°76 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Quench your thirst

Best beverages at the best buys

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Contents Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4 The editor’s choice on what not to miss this summer

Arrival & Getting Around

6

Lost? Help is at hand

City Basics

9

Things you need to know

Culture & Events

10

You won’t be bored

Zagreb Pulse

25

Kristijan Tabet Interview & Insider Tips

Restaurants

27

The Little Market in the Attic - find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, natural cosmetics, eco - friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. See page 34

Enjoy the riches

Hotels

Local flavour

A place to rest your weary head

34

A taste of culture

Directory

Coffee & Cakes

The most essential suport

38

Treat yourself

Nightlife

40

When you just gotta boogie

Sightseeing

43

Check out the highlights

Zagreb Outdoors

50

Jarun & Bundek

Shopping Perfect gifts and souvenirs

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List of small features

63

Zagreb Best New Art Nikola Tesla - Croatia’s greatest inventor Zagreb Cultural Summer - ZgKul Discover Karlovac Horrible Histories More style for less cash City Centre shopping

Maps & Index 53

61

Street register City map City centre map

10 12 15 22 48 54 58 64 65 66-67

Summer 2014

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Foreword The heat is on dear travellers and you’ve arrived to Croatia’s metropolis, Zagreb. The city thrives at this time of year as more and more tourists bypass the Capital either to or from the coast. The summer calendar is choc a bloc full of jovial excitement with lots of outdoor events, festivals and concerts. Check out ZgKul, Summer on Stross, Changing of the Guard and the Zagreb Time Machine where city legends and forgotten tales are brought back to life through real life re-enactments.

In this issue, we have a special feature entitled ‘Zagreb Best New Art’. Indeed, see some of the finest local artists, painters, and musicians that are roaming the city and putting their touch on every day culture.

We also have a ‘get to know’ interview with Zagreb photographer Kristijan Tabet. And Zagreb Pulse gives you the thoughts of what Zagrebians feel you simply should not miss whilst in town.

Finally, food is hard to pass whenever you’re visiting a city and we have a feature on local flavour. Last but not least, if you’re looking for a place to refresh and simply chill, read about Lakes Jarun and Bundek.

Wishing you a wonderful summer stay from the IYP team!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Jelena Iva Nikolić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Ela Banda Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Vedran Metelko, INmusic Festival 2011 Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year

by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

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Have you been taken back to the past in a time machine or can you actually see the characters from stories told long time ago standing right next to you? Everything is here: a nostalgic song, a bunch of owers and the times we brought back to the streets of Zagreb because of you… www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

This international street festival turns Zagreb into an all-out party place. Be sure to join in on the fun! www.cestisdbest.com

Croatia’s largest open-air music event, placed on the list of 50 best festivals in the world. Check it out! www.inmusicfestival.com

Fill your hearts with the spirit of Advent as the city streets, squares and parks are adorned with Christmassy delights.

Treat yourself with Advent in Zagreb! www.adventzagreb.com

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr tel. + 385 (0)1 481 40 51

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Arrival & Getting Around

By bus

By plane

The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall.

Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn.

Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

Pleso International Airport is located 17km out of town.

Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.

Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi. hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE-4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.

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Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) QPleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Arrival & Getting Around By train Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr/tramvaj/.aspx. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for the night rides (00:00 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver, on kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule.Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/ (+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

Buses A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet. hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01.

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Summer 2014

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Arrival & Getting Around 2014. Quicksilver 675 sundeck

6.75m. Max. 8 people. boat excursions

special events sunset cruise

transfers

overnight charter

big game fishing

Let our experienced team create a special offer to make your visit to Dubrovnik unforgettable Contact us today! +385 914191452 +385 993332829 www.dubrovnikboatcharter.com www.biggamedubrovnik.com

Taxis Eko taxi It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.50kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour.

All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr.

Radio taksi Zagreb Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.QD-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+3851) 17 77, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksizagreb.hr.

Taxi Cammeo These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxi-cammeo.net.

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Tourist information Tourist Information Centre Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagrebtouristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00 Zagreb County Tourist Board QC-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Travel agencies Paraiso Mediterraneo From excursions to tours and accommodation, transfers to car rentals and yacht services, assistance and local guides in your native language. Located at 300 meters from Main Square. QD-2, Jurišićeva 19 (Rotonda Centre), tel. (+385-1) 799 98 40/(+385-91) 767 00 88, info@ paraisomediterraneo.com, www.paraisomediterraneo. com.

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City Basics Customs

Visas

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings.

In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Toilets You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse. Let’s face it, we’ve all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612, Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis­tance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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White Buffalo, Zlatan Vehabović (Oil on canvas) ,Lauba Archives

Culture & Events

Zagreb Best New Art By Jonathan Bousfield Zagreb may not quite be on the same level as Berlin or London, but there are real signs that the art scene is becoming more diverse, engaging and challenging with every passing year.

Providing a bluffer’s guide to the scene would require a tome the size of a small encyclopedia: here, however, are six names that have made an impact over the last twelve months and who look set to cast a long shadow over Zagreb art in the future.

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Zagreb’s contemporary art scene has changed enormously in the last five years, not least because the local gallery landscape has itself undergone seismic changes. The opening of the Museum of Contemporary Art or MSU in December 2009 finally provided Croatia’s strong traditions of conceptual art and performance art with the institutional platform they deserved. The Lauba Gallery, opened in 2011 by a private collector, serves as a counter-balance to the MSU in showcasing the kind of art that is visually engaging in its own right while still giving you something to scratch your head about. Mixing the best of both approaches is independent gallery and social hub Greta, with its policy of one-week-only exhibitions and opening-night parties.

Relative newcomer Boonika (www.facebook.com/BOONIKA.NET) provides exhibition space to the predominantly young and underground artists who are yet to establish a presence in the artistic mainstream. Not to be forgotten is the growing role of the street, with the Museum of Street Art or MUU sponsoring a wave of serious public art projects across the city - although the vivid, vital world of Zagreb street art is something that really deserves a whole article to itself.

Sandra Vitaljić The photography of Sandra Vitaljić frequently creeps up on you unawares, its visually soothing but subtly ambiguous surface pointing you towards a much darker back-story.

Former fashion snapper turned fine-art photographer Vitaljić picked up this year’s T-HT Prize (Croatia’s most prestigious annual art award) for Beloved, a series of photographs showing female faces and body parts. Although beautifully ethereal at first sight, they were in fact inspired by newspaper accounts of criminal cases in which women were murdered by their male partners. Equally thoughtprovoking was Vitaljić’s earlier work Infertile Grounds, a much-praised series of lyrical landscape photographs that documented the current appearance of former battlefields and wartime atrocity sites. It’s no surprise to discover that Vitaljić wrote her doctoral thesis on the manipulation of photography in times of war: the resulting book, Rat slikama (War Through Pictures) was declared best art book at this year’s Sarajevo book fair.

Miron Milić Walking down Petrinjska street past the infamous police station where foreign residents of the fair capital have to queue up to be registered, you’ll come face to face with a huge mural of a waterfall covering the north-facing side of a tall brick house. It’s the work of Miron Milić, a draftsman and illustrator who sees the streets as a perfectly legitimate alternative to art gallery. Inspired by pop art, comic strips and illustrated children’s encyclopedias, Milić’s work often looks more direct on a city wall than it would in a whitecube space, and has certainly had the kind of public impact that most contemporary artists can only dream of. A lot of his work looks like the frames of strip-cartoon stories, taken out of context - indeed his work has also appeared in the pages of cult alternative comic-strip magazine Komikaze (www.komikaze.hr). His large-format drawing of fighting cats, ambiguously captioned with the words “they played with hidden teeth and retracted claws” can currently be seen hanging in the car-park of the Lauba Gallery. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Culture & Events Zlatan Vehabović Since opening in June 2011 the Lauba Gallery has helped give a new lease of life to Croatian figurative painting, and Zlatan Vehabović has been one of the brightest stars on the scene. Indeed Vehabović is slowly assuming the mantle of Croatia’s leading contemporary figurative painter: the critics like him; the public likes him; and foreign galleries want to show his work. As well as being visually compelling, Vehabović’s self-portraits and narrative paintings have a deeply meditative quality, often presenting the viewer with a visual riddle to which there might be more than one answer. Seen in Zagreb in January 2014 and currently on show in New York, The Cursed Crew is a cycle of paintings inspired by My Donal, a Scottish folk song dealing with the wave-tossed exploits of whale fishermen as seen through the eyes of the women who eagerly await their return.

Vehabović’s compelling pictures of men in boats, men staring at icy grey seas, and weird beached sea monsters, combine to produce an atmosphere of adventure, but also one of loneliness and melancholy.

OKO

Oko Further evidence of the impact of street art on the Zagreb art scene is provided by Oko (”The Eye”), another product of the city’s art academies who forsook the galleries for the streets, and is now heading back in the other direction.

Oko’s trademark animal- and bird-headed figures can be seen in numerous locations around Zagreb and elsewhere - the artist herself sees them as shaman-like spiritual guardians, watching over the denizens of the city. Oko swept up one of the main prizes at the Zagreb Salon of 2012 when four of her larger than life animal-headed humanoids, entitled the Keepers of Gaia, were hung in the central space of the HDLU. Several of Oko’s monumental drawings were displayed in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum earlier this year, adding to her growing reputation as one of Zagreb’s most collectable artists.

Stipan Tadić Most prolific of Zagreb’s younger-generation painters, Stipan Tadić has become one of Zagreb’s most sough-after figurative artists. As well as being an accomplished portraitist he is also a master of the big historical canvas, mixing social commentary with a mercurial sense of humour.

When asked by a client to produce a landscape painting with an Adriatic theme, he came up with 5 August, which portrays a building-site bulldozer tearing up the Dalmatian countryside. Tadić marked his graduation from the Zagreb academy with a large-format canvas depicting the Croatian National Theatre filled with his fellow students. Another typical piece of Tadić mischief is his picture of Zagreb mayor Milan Bandić clad in17th-century armour and riding a white horse. Tadić was one of the stars of the Zagreb painting biennale in November 2013, and was the subject of a sizeable solo exhibition in Split later the same month. Most recently, a residency in Abu Dhabi led to a striking series of Bedouin portraits.

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Marijan Crtalić Conceptual artist Marijan Crtalić may not have been widely exhibited in 2014, but he has certainly been in the public eye. This is largely thanks to his work in organizing the Steelworks Festival (www.festivalzeljezara.org), a weekend of concerts, exhibitions and workshops that took place in his home town of Sisak in early June. A once-thriving industrial city, Sisak was home to an artists’ colony in the 1970s and 80s, during which sculptors fashioned works from the city’s steel. Looking back in commemoration of

nikola tesla - croatia’s greatest inventor To explain what exactly Nikola Tesla invented is not so easy unless you happen to be an electrical engineer.

But his many inventions are vital for things that we now take for granted: electric power and radio. Tesla’s background is also sometimes difficult to explain: he was born in the village of Smiljan, near Gospić (today’s Croatia) and was of Serbian descent, so both Croatia and Serbia have a legitimate claim to him (as, indeed, do the Americans – he became a US citizen!). See more about Tesla at the Technical Museum.

Tehnical Museum Archives

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TEHNIČKI MUZEJ Savska cesta 18

UMJ

VA M A ET N O N A U S LU ST I SVIJ ZI: ET R A

DA

IZ L O Ž I Z A BA TEH KL A N IČ KO DE TEH ERSTE G MUZ N IČ E K IM U S U R A JA B E Č MUZ D E JO M N JI S

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Culture & Events this bygone age of industrial might and cultural vitality, the Steelworks Festival struck a deep chord throughout Croatia - largely because the decline of Sisak has been mirrored in industrial towns elsewhere. The festival grew out of Crtalić’s own artwork Invisible Sisak, a long-term research project that assembled photographs, texts and videos recalling the city’s steel-and-sculpture heritage. It’s through works such as these that Crtalić has emerged as an eloquent advocate of the social role of art in Croatia. In a society battered by economic transition and corporate unconcern, every artists has, to some extent, to be a social activist too.

Jazz&Blues Concert 15.07 Tuesday Hugh Laurie & The Copper Bottom Band Who’s in the house? Dr. House, yes indeed this great British actor, comedian, writer and of recent years musician comes to Zagreb! Besides Laurie’s remarkable acting career, music is in his blood, especially ‘the blues’ to which he feverishly has a passion for. Laurie’s European Tour is in promotion of his latest album ‘Did Not It Rain’.QD-1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2. Concert starts at 21:00.

Tickets 250 - 450kn.

Capsized wagons in Maksimir Street around 1930. (Zagreb City Museum Archives)

Maksimir Restaurant ( Family Hanuš), 2th August , 1910 (Zagreb City Museum Archives)

Classical Music Concerts 21.07 Monday Croatian Radio and Television Symphony Orchestra Don’t miss out this summer on seeing violinist Roman Simović, a musical genius who has performed around the world, guitarist Petrit Ceku, from Prizren, Kosovo and Croatian tenor and opera singer, Tomislav Mužek, as they dazzle you with the Croatian Radio and Television Symphony Orchestra.QC-3, Summer stage, Trg kralja Tomislava, www.kulturauzagrebu.hr.

30.09 Tuesday Il Divo - A Musical Affair Evolving from the moment Simon Cowell first made their historic assemblage, the original classical crossover quartet has broken boundaries, records, and more than a few hearts with their enchanting sound.QH-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 404 - 996kn.

Exhibitions 27.03 Thursday - 30.09 Tuesday At Your Service – The Art and World of Work Another day, another dollar! Well this exhibit takes a 360 degree turn on ‘work’ through the perspective of various Vienna artists. Artworks and discussions raise issues of change in the workplace, flexibility versus mobile work to work as a privilege or burden and so on. Visitors will be faced with views of all sorts, various works of art and can also participate in the issues which the artists’ had set before them.QA-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, info@tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.

01.04 Tuesday - 31.12 Wednesday The Benefits of Glass All the way from the Glaziers Center in Barnbach, Austria, the Zagreb audience gets the opportunity to see 22 precious glass artefacts from the museum’s collection. Attention to detail is oh so visible on practical items such as cups, vases, pitchers, oil lamps… dating from the 18th to the 20th century. A designers dream!QB-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

03.04 Thursday - 31.08 Sunday Maksimir - History and its districts’ symbols This much loved area of Zagreb has a grand history and with the assistance of the Zagreb City Museum, we are now able to see much of the old and new of the Maksimir area. Special attention is paid to the first craftsmen, residential units for railway men, local industry, churches, landmarks, the social character of the area and more.QC1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr.

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Culture & Events

15.05 Thursday - 24.08 Sunday Vlasta Delimar at the MSU Ask the average Croat about artist Vlasta Delimar and the chances are that most of them will say “isn’t she the one whose always taking her clothes off?”. It’s an understandable comment: artists who have used their own naked bodies in the course of their art will always be associated in the popular mind with the nudity itself, rather than its context. As photographs in the MSU retrospective reveal, a lot of Delimar’s most famous performances took place in the streets, unannounced, to an audience of random passers-by. One of the novelties of the show is that it will put her activities in a big-gallery context: during the exhibition Delimar will take up residence in the gallery in an improvised living and working space, and take part in a work called Poziv na druženje (“An Invitation to Hang Out”), in which she will talk about art with a group of guests in a number of different locations: in the gallery, in the museum foyer, or next to the nearest bus stop.QJ-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu. hr.

17.05 - AUGUST Meštart: Petar Barišić and Loren Živković Kuljiš - Transitions See a new insight and approach into the extraordinary artistic opus of one of the world’s most famous sculptors of the 20th century, Croatia’s very own Ivan Meštrović.

Held at the Meštrović Atelier, the exhibition creates a link between his works and current artistic approaches by contemporary Croatian sculptors.QB-1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8, www.mestrovic. hr. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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07.06 Saturday - 20.07 Sunday Travels and Landscapes See the beauty of Italy through some of its best photographers. In what is a reflective exhibit, patrons can see 134 photos taken from the 1950s to 2010 which represent the charm of Italy; it’s amazing history, cultural heritage, lifestyle, housing and most of all colourful mosaics of its landscapes.QC-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.galerijaklovic.hr.

ZgKul The Zagreb Cultural Summer unite all the cultural events that take place in Zagreb during the summer.

Concerts, exhibitons, theatre, films and street performance - all of this and more are gathered under a cultural umbrella named ZgKul - that’s Zagreb Cool.

There’s plenty for the little ones too in the Trešnja, Žar ptica and Mala scena Theatres. It all kicks off at the Bundek Lake on 03 July. Events featured include the Zagreb Cathedral Organ 03 July - 18 September, Summer Nights at Theatre Exit 29 June - 02 August, the Secrets of Grič interactive tour 23 May - 06 September, the Miroslav Krleža Festival 02 July 07 July and the Histrion Summer 01 July - 31 August. For other events see our Culture& Events pages, and you’ll also find more information in Croatian on www.kulturauzagrebu.hr.

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Culture & Events

Remi, Elemental, photo by Maja Bota

11.06 Wednesday - 17.08 Sunday One Century of the Wrist Watch It’s time! Time to pay respect to what has today become an accessory but first started out as a fashionable whim worn only by women called wristlets. This fascinating exhibition marks the centennial of the wrist watch as it uncovers its technical innovations, manufacturing, industry trends and more. Over 200 items and a video projection will be showcased.QB-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

12.06 2014 Thursday - 04.01 2015 Sunday Images of the Great War Did you realize that this year marks a century since the beginning of World War I? You can relive this momentous world altering event at this spectacular collection of over 200 paintings, prints and sculptures relating to the First World War at the Croatian History Museum. The largest part of the collection was obtained in 1919 and contains mementoes and miscellaneous items from local Croatian regiments.QB-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr.

17.06 Tuesday - 25.08 Monday Iznik - Ottoman ceramics from the depths of the Adriatic If you appreciate nautical history, then come and see the ins and outs of a sunken Venetian merchant ship found near the island of Mljet. The cargo stems from the Turkish city of Iznik and includes pottery highly acclaimed throughout the 16th century.

Jinx

With luxurious tableware, bronzed cannon balls, metal ware, Turkish and Venetian coins, as well as other inventory found on board, visitor can step in back in time to when East meets West.QB-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.mimara.hr.

17.06 Tuesday - 20.07 Sunday The 5th Croatian Biennial in Illustration Art enthusiasts can look forward to the latest production in world illustration as displayed at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. For the 5th consecutive time it gathers illustrators from different parts of the world, each of whom have been chosen through a strict selection process. The Croatian Biennial of Illustration is considered a worldly relevant event that gathers children’s, journal and advertising illustrations all in the one place. This is a perfect little getaway which can be enjoyed whilst strolling along Zagreb’s Upper Town.QC-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.galerijaklovic.hr.

27.06 Friday - 28.09 Sunday 1914 - Memories of the First World War Money, Medals, Decorations In paying respect to 100 years since the beginning of WWI at both the national and European level, the Archaeological Museum will display its numismatic collection from that period as well as its extensive collection of medals deriving from various countries involved in the war.QC-2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr.

Special events

Domobran pomađe ranjenom drugu 1917, Anđelko Kaurić (Images of the Great War, Croatian History Museum

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26.04 Saturday - 28.09 Sunday The Changing of the Guard A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.QGornji grad, Kaptol, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, Dolac, Tkalčićeva, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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ZAGREBAČKE LJETNE VEČERI -------------------------------------Koncertna direkcija Zagreb

27. LIPNJA - 14. SRPNJA 2014.

ATRIJ GALERIJE KLOVIĆEVI DVORI UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON*

www.kdz.hr

WWW.KDZ.HR

-------------------------------------Petak, 27. 6. 2014.

BEČKI KOMORNI ORKESTAR (WIENER KAMMERORCHESTER) (Austrija) STEFAN VLADAR, glasovir i dirigent (Austrija) A. Webern, W. A. Mozart Ponedjeljak, 30. 6. 2014.

GUDAČKI KVARTET ARTEMIS (Njemačka) F. Schubert, L. van Beethoven Srijeda, 2. 7. 2014.

TRIO DI PARMA (Italija) J. Haydn, G. Martucci, M. Ravel Četvrtak, 3. 7. 2014.

VADYM KHOLODENKO, glasovir (Ukrajina) G. F. Händel, H. Purcell, J. Brahms, I. Stravinski, F. Chopin Ponedjeljak, 7. 7. 2014.

Mlade hrvatske zvijezde ALJOŠA JURINIĆ, glasovir HRVATSKI GUDAČKI KVARTET F. Liszt, B. Bersa, F. Schubert, R. Schumann Četvrtak, 10. 7. 2014. - Umjetnički paviljon * ANSAMBL DIALOGOS (Francuska) KATARINA LIVLJANIĆ, glas i umjetničko vodstvo (Hrvatska) KANTADURI (Hrvatska) JOŠKO ĆALETA, glas i umjetničko vodstvo (Hrvatska) Anđeli heretici - Rituali i pučke pobožnosti iz srednjovjekovne Bosne i Hercegovine Ponedjeljak, 14. 7. 2014.

BORIS BROVTSYN, violina (Rusija) DANIJEL DETONI, glasovir (Hrvatska) W. A. Mozart, G. Enescu, I. Stravinski, J. Brahms

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Culture & Events 19.06 Thursday - 29.07 Tuesday Amadeo Scene A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public theatre in Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in 1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world artists in this very same venue.QB-1, Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+3851) 481 69 08, www.scenaamadeo.hr. Ticket desk open 19:00 - 21:00. Tickets 65 - 90kn.

20.06 Friday - 31.07 Thursday Summer at the MSU For the first time ever, the Museum of Contemporary Art is hosting a summer package of cultural events, including Vlasta Delimar’s exhibition, ‘’That’s Me,’’ and rock concerts, featuring Rundek Cargo Trio, Elemental, Urban & 4, Gustafi, Bambi Molesters and Jinx. As well, at,“The Best of Metropolis,” they will be screening some of this season’s best films. The event will finish off with a bang, on July 31st, with a celebration of Vlasta Delimar’s birthday.QJ4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

Marija Braut - Unknown Zagreb 22.07. Tuesday - 31.08 Sunday, Art Pavilion in Zagreb

26.04 Saturday - 05.10 Sunday The Zagreb Time Machine Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.QTrg bana Josipa Jelačića, Dolac, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www.zagreb-touristinfo. hr.

27.06 Friday - 14.07 Monday The 33rd Zagreb Summer Nights For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concerts performed by renowned Croatian and international musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb’s Upper Town and Art Pavilion.QThe atrium of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4; St. Katherine’s Church, Trg Katarine Zrinske; Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@kdz.hr, www.kdz.hr. Tickets 80kn - 300kn.

Urska Boljkovac, PIF - Infernational Puppet Theatre Festival Archives

23.05 Friday - 13.09 Saturday Strossmartre - The 14th Summer on Stross Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

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Culture & Events 01.07 Tuesday - 01.08 Friday Art Jam An entire array of amazing workshops, DJ’s, food, fashion and art as presented by 30 young artists from the academy of Fine Arts cannot go unnoticed. In a relaxed summer vibe, see some of the up and coming artists in this part of the world and if in Zagreb, don’t forget to jam at Art Jam!QE-3, HDLU (Croatian Association of Artists) / Meštrović Pavilion, Trg žrtava fašizma 16.

One century of the wrist watch (Arts and Crafts Museum Archives)

16.07 Wednesday - 20.07 Sunday The 48th International Folklore Festival The stage floor on Jelačič Square and Upper Town will get one mean workout with hundreds of performers dancing.

This year’s edition is dedicated to the unique and beautiful Croatian region in Međimurje - distinctive in folk music, art and dance. Other national regions as well as international folk groups will attend as they bedazzle in song, costume and movement.QC-2, Upper Town, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.msf.hr.

17.07 Thursday - 19.07 Saturday Medvedgrad Musical Evenings Head into the mountains where this annual event presents three nights of pure musical delight. Performers include the Croatian duo Meritas and Tamara Obrovac’s Transhistria Quartet, as well as famous Slovenian musician Zoran Predin and the Damir Kukuruzović Django Group.

QMedvedgrad, www.centarcesarec.hr. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 70 - 100kn.

04.09 Thursday - 13.09 Saturday Festival of World Literature A real treat for all the book lovers, this festival won’t disappoint with both Croatian and international writers, amongst others Javier Cercas, Aleš Debeljak, Patrick deWitt, María Dueñas, Semezdin Mehmedinović, Sami Michael, and Lawrence Norfolk joining in round tables, public discussions, literature programmes and more. English is the go!QC-2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, www. literaturamundi.com.

The International Folkore Festival Archives

08.09 Monday - 12.09 Friday JA BiH ... 5 days of Sarajevo in Zagreb As part of the summer ZgKul festival and for the 3rd year running, a bridge is building between Zagreb and Sarajevo with top notch films, exhibitions, rock and jazz music, theatre shows and cabaret performances by some of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most celebrated artists.

QB-1/2, Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Velvet Gallery, Dežmanova 9.

15.09 Monday - 20.09 Saturday PIF - 47th International Puppet Theatre Festival Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb’s streets, squares and theatres. The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more exciting than the idea of international utopia, and now the puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!) Performers from all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s plays.Q pif@mcuk.hr, www.pif.hr.

25.09 Thursday - 28.09 Sunday International Experimental Film and Video Festival Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to experimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of expression and explores the conceptual and technical possibilities of film making. It has a competition programme and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded cinema performances.QB-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.25fps.hr.

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In

You can’t miss Karlovac.

If you're going to the sea, it's on the way. If you're going to Zagreb, it's on the way. If you're going to Plitvice, again it's on your way. However, for an increasing number of both Croatian and foreign visitors, Karlovac is a place to stop, relax, and enjoy the nature, rivers and various events on offer during the spring and summer, when the town of greenery and four rivers turns into one of the most interesting destinations in the continental part of Croatia.

Karlovac is the perfect destination for those who are

unsure whether to spend a short break in another town or in the countryside, as Karlovac is both of these! And don’t forget Dubovac Castle, the ancient fortress that watches over the town, and which CNN this year included in its 20 must-see places in Croatia. The vantage point from which you can see the whole town and the guard tower, which has been turned into a museum full of interesting exhibits, is worth visiting at any time of year, especially in May during the Medieval Fair or in August when every weekend a similar programme is provided by the ‘Summer at Dubovac’ event.

Karlovac is full of life

during the summer, almost as if it were an Adriatic resort. For 5 or 6 years, inhabitants have had to grumble during the winter about the fact that there’s no cinema in the town. However, during the summer months, because of its

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Ri films and cinemas, it draws in visitors not just from other towns in Croatia but from all over the world! July sees the opening of the River Cinema, which every weekend shows international box office hits at Croatia’s only registered river bathing area, Foginovo kupalište, by the River Korana. During the day, you can have a great time in the beautiful Korana and at night you can sit back and enjoy a film!

All of the above is just a small part of what Karlovac has to

offer during the warmer months. The period from the middle of June until the end of July is particularly attractive, when the town will be hosting numerous events, including concerts, plays and performances in the open air in preparation for its birthday on 13 July, which every year is celebrated with a grand birthday ball at which, in honour of the town, the number of couples who dance is the same as the anniversary the town is celebrating.

But that’s not all! There’s also the International Folklore Festival (from 6th till 13th of July) and the International Ethno Jazz Festival (from 18th till 20th of July), the Karlovac Theatre Festival, a series of concerts at the Castle, and non-stop events at the Foginovo bathing area.

You already knew that you can’t miss Karlovac, but now you know that if you want to be in, all you have to do this year is choose an event that takes your fancy and stop.

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International Ethno Jazz Festival River Cinema

International Folklore Festival

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SREDIŠTE VAŠIH DOŽIVLJAJA / AT THE HEART OF YOUR EXPERIENCE Ljubljana, 1. 7.–1. 9. 2014

18.–22. 8.

EVITA, mjuzikl / musical Tekst / lyrics: Tim Rice; glazba / music: Andrew Lloyd Webber; režija i koreografija / director and choreographer: Mykal Rand

1. 7.

Otvorenje 62. Ljubljana Festivala / Opening of the 62nd Ljubljana Festival Carl Orff: CARMINA BURANA 3. 7.

Vatra & led / Fire & Ice VLATKO STEFANOVSKI & VASKO ATANASOVSKI

26. 8.

VLADO KRESLIN Puhački orkestar Big band Nova / Wind Orchestra Big Band NOVA

7. 7.

Giuseppe Verdi: REQUIEM Dirigent / Conductor: RICCARDO MUTI

27. 8.

MOSKOVSKI SOLISTI / MOSCOW SOLOISTS JURIJ BAŠMET, dirigent i viola / conductor and viola

8. 7.

ELĪNA GARANČA, mezzosopran / mezzo-soprano Dirigent / Conductor: Karel Mark Chichon

28. 8.

OPASNE VEZE / DANGEROUS LIAISONS

10. 7.

Richard Wagner: LOHENGRIN Zbor i orkestar HNK u Zagrebu / Choir and orchestra of CNT in Zagreb

Neobarokni balet / Neobaroque ballet Koreografija i režija / choreography and direction:

Valentina Turcu, Leo Mujić

29. 8.

UROŠ PERIĆ, klavir, vokal / piano, vocal BIG BAND RTV SLOVENIJA / RTV SLOVENIA BIG BAND

14., 15. 7.

BORIS BEREZOVSKI, klavir / piano 16. 7.

MARÍA PAGÉS, večer flamenka / Flamenco evening AUTOPORTRET / AUTORRETRATO / SELF PORTRAIT

1. 9.

Svršetak 62. Ljubljana Festivala / Closing of the 62nd Ljubljana Festival KRALJEVSKI ORKESTAR CONCERTGEBOUW, AMSTERDAM / ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA, AMSTERDAM Dirigent / Conductor: MARISS JANSONS

21. 7.

GALA BALETNA VEČER SVJETSKIH ZVIJEZDA / WORLD STARS OF BALLET GALA EVENING 28. 7.

Pasión STEFAN MILENKOVIĆ & MARKO HATLAK

Ulaznice i informacije / Tickets and information: www.ljubljanafestival.si, www.eventim.hr, prodajna mjesta Eventima u Hrvatskoj / Eventim sales points in Croatia.

SPONZORI 62. LJUBLJANA FESTIVALA / SPONSORS OF THE 62nd LJUBLJANA FESTIVAL:

GLAVNI MEDIJSKI SPONZOR / GENERAL MEDIA SPONSOR:

MEDIJSKI SPONZORI / MEDIA SPONSORS:

SLUŽBENI PRIJEVOZNIK / OFFICIAL CARRIER:

ŽELJEZNIČKI PRIJEVOZNIK / RAILWAY TRANSPORTER:

SLUŽBENA VINA / OFFICIAL WINES:

HVALA / THANKS:

OSNIVAČICA FESTIVALA LJUBLJANA / LJUBLJANA FESTIVAL WAS FOUNDED:

www.avtohisamalgaj.si

POČASNI POKROVITELJ LJUBLJANA FESTIVALA 2014 JE GRADONAČELNIK GRADSKE OPĆINE LJUBLJANA, ZORAN JANKOVIĆ. / THE HONORARY SPONSOR OF THE LJUBLJANA FESTIVAL 2014 IS THE MAYOR OF CITY OF LJUBLJANA ZORAN JANKOVIĆ.

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Zagreb Pulse Dolac, Photo by Kristijan Tabet

Kristijan Tabet

Join a young photographer in capturing some of the hidden secrets of Zagreb...

ZIYP: Is Zagreb photogenic and looks good in the photos?

Kristijan: Whether it is photogenic or not depends on the eye of a quality and experienced photographers who make it look attractive and interesting through the interpretation of their own experience.

ZIYP: What is your favorite city motif?

Kristijan: Social humor whose protagonists are Zagreb residents and of course the inevitable Dolac food market.

If you are interested in Kristijan’s work you can check his website at www.kristijantabet.com or you can visit him at RaZGlednice Photo Gallery (Radićeva 3) see page 53. You can also follow his activities and some every day pictures on Facebook - just search for Ra ZG lednice

ZIYP: Your favorite time of day/night when you like to go taking photos?

Kristijan: While the city sleeps, just before sunrise. I like to enjoy the moment when the sun rays perfrom their own play on the city’s facades and views.

ZIYP: If you were to take people to the photo tour/ route, which one would that be?

Kristijan: Uffff, that’s a taugh question .... many urban courtyards that have been forgotten by its inhabitants, the Dolac market, various city terraces with magnificent views of the city and of course the photo gallery of postcards...

ZIYP: A place to make the best photo/memory of Zagreb?

Kristijan: Cafes and restaurants that resist urbanization, modernization and capitalism :)) Retro is back in fashion and more and more establishments are regulated by the principle of ‘how it used to be’. Of course, also the motifs which I have previously mentioned are an option for the perfect memory but it is still an individual thing for any of us. My favorite place is the top of the building’s Main Railway Station from which there is a wonderful view of the entire city and even the top of the cathedral is not to be dismissed. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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The Upper Town Lamp, Photo by Kristijan Tabet Manduševac, Photo by Kristijan Tabet

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Zagreb Pulse Raul Švarc Stripovi na kvadrat ZIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in the city?

Raul: For coffee - Torte i To at Šalata or head to Flores in Petrićeva.

We asked five locals - who live or work in Zagreb - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

ZIYP: Recommendation for a trip around the Zagreb area?

Raul: Samobor, and the Samobor Hills…

ZIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Raul: Maksimir!

ZIYP: What should guests take from Zagreb as a souvenir?

Raul: Zagrebačke štrukle from the Esplanade Hotel, or anything from Doctor Balthazar.

ZIYP: Any tips for visitors craving to try local specialties?

Raul: Ćevapi and kebabs in Rakitje - the eatery is called ‘Kod Marka’. Cakes (especially cheesecake and ledeni vjetar ‘cold wind’) at Torte i To!

Photo by Vesna Špoljar

Božidar Andrija Lukša accountant , owner of Texel Ltd. ZIYP: What is your favorite place for drinking coffee or going out in Zagreb?

Božidar: My favorite place for drinking coffee and going out is the Corner Bar. A quiet atmosphere with great offers on drinks, pastries and snacks, all at a moderate price. Occasionally they organize events.

ZIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Božidar: My secret place to escape from the crowds is Corner Bar, which is located in the city center. It has a pleasant atmosphere and a beautiful terrace.

ZIYP: Any recommendations for a trip around the Zagreb area?

Božidar: My recommendation is to visit Medvedgrad, the old medieval town on Medvednica.

Matija Car Ulični Ormar ZIYP: What is your favourite place for coffee or going out in Zagreb?

Matija: I’m tossing up between the ‘Wine Bar Basement’ in Tomićeva and Pod Starim Krovovima ‘Under the old roofs’ in Basaričekova. I recommend the first for their attractive wines and snacks, and the latter for the gathering of interesting city folk and for its warm homely atmosphere.

ZIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Matija: A short evening walk to the bistro Pilana Bliznec (‘Sawmill Bliznec’) on Bliznec Street located in the Medvednica Nature Park. And having a coffee along the stream proves to be soothing after a hard working day.

ZIYP: Recommendation for a trip around the Zagreb area?

Matija: The City of Samobor!

ZIYP: What should visitors bring home with them from Zagreb as a souvenir?

Božidar: A Licitar Heart, a coat of arms representing the city Zagreb.

ZIYP: What should guests take from Zagreb as a souvenir?

Matija: Have a sachet of sugar with coffee in one of the squares, take a dry leaf from walking in Zrinjevac or Maksimir Park, plus take a photo from one of the hidden courtyards. Then, have a chocolate ice-cream from ‘Orient’ or a cake from ‘Mak na Konac’, purchase a piggy bank from ‘LePrase’ and of course, a little something from ‘Ulični Ormar’.

ZIYP: Any advice on what visitors must try from the local specialties?

Božidar: Stuffed pork loin, braised liver with stewed potatoes, ham with cabbage, baked strudel.

ZIYP: Any tips for visitors craving to try local specialties?

Matija: Coffee and paprenjake (gingerbread) in the sun, or cream and cheese, veal under the peka (iron bell), cherry strudel...

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Restaurants Didov san Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com, www. konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere.QC-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. From July 15 - August 15 opening hours are possible from 16:00 23:00. (68 - 130kn). PJAGB

Croatian 5/4 The team at 5/4 are all about the revival of Croatian cuisine and paying full respect to the environment through their selected menu, cooking practice and savoured ingredients. The entire story is rounded off with a splendid interior which at first may seem fashionable, but once you’ve tried the food, you will see a clear connection between the ambient and the menu. This is a restaurant of indulgence, where your palate is given new meaning and best of all where you will not be left hungry.QE-2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, rezervacije@petacetvrtina. com, www.petacetvrtina.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. For lunch, an à la carte menu (30-120kn) is offered, while for dinner a five-course menu for 290kn, a seven-course menu for 410kn or a 12-course menu for 570kn is available.

Okrugljak Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica.QD-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). PALEGBW

Atlanta Bocca Marai In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines.QC4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 617 02 07, info@boccamarai.hr, www.bocca-marai.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:30.

Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). PAGBW Balon The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely outside seating, good cooking at sensible prices. Be sure to book for an evening table.QI-4, Prisavlje 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 09 18, info@restaurantbalon.com, www.restaurantbalon. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). PTA6L� GBW facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Restaurants Chic & Cheerful Bistro RougeMarin Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended.QK-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:00 22:30. Closed Sun. (30 - 60kn). AGBW Bistro Šalša Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH-3, Kostelska 11, bistro.salsa.tresnjevka@ gmail.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. August 1 - 15 Open 11:30 - 15:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 40kn). PNG� BSW Purger Snooty fools will laugh in your face when they see the interior and find that you’re serious about steering them to this place. Do not feel embarrassed: their baseless preconceptions are their loss and it means a table will always be free for us! Cheap, local and close to the centre.

QE-1, Petrinjska 33, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 13. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 90kn). PJAGBW Tač Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking. On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec.QH-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, info@restac.hr, www.restac. hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 20. (40 - 120kn). PAILGBXW Trilogija Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass.QC-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 (75 - 140kn). PJAGW 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Lari & Penati Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you’ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the latest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy.QD-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn).

PAGBSW Mali bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.

QD-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 5 - September.

(40 - 90kn). PAGBW Mimice As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s walls.QD-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (16 - 34kn). PNG zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants Žlica i vilica Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for?QD-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+3851) 457 27 70, info@zlicaivilica.hr, www.zlicaivilica.hr.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 60kn). PAGBSW

Seafood Dubravkin put Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkinput.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn).

PJALGBW

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Gallo A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure.QB-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.

PM hr, www.gallo.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).

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Restaurants Ethnic Asia Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia.doo@gmail.com, www.asia.hr. Open 11:00 23:00. (29 - 125kn). PAGW Korčula Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGB Ribice i tri točkice With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić. In a rush? Just down the sidewalk toward Cvjetni Trg is their take-away stand with a similarly fish-filled array of offerings.QC-2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79, info@ribiceitritockice.hr, www.ribiceitritockice. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). PJA6G� BW

Breakfast Day Cafe One look at these wraps and you’re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. Breakfast from 07:30 - 12:00.QI-4, Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50, info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr.

Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 18 (15 - 55kn). PAGBLW

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Royal India Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine.

Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere.

Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC-1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@ gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.

(35 - 80kn). PAGW Umami Grill A small place on Skalinska, and perhaps easily missed, but once inside you’ll wonder how so much can fit.

There’s seating inside for perhaps a small dozen, and terraced seats of course, but it’s the menu and the food which must come first here. There are no wrong choices on this menu, and it is the best pad thai this reviewer has had in a long time. Prices are eminently affordable and great value. Perfect for an early lunch (or late lunch), or whenever, whilst wandering the old city.QC-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 86 09. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 39kn). A

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Restaurants

Imperial Café What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 15:00 to 18:00 except Sundays! The 18kn coffee’n’cake or tea’n’cake is a winner.QD-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 45kn). PAG� BW

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Velvet Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating.

Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli…Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan.QB2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet. hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn).

PJGBW

Budget Pithos Zagreb should count itself blessed as more places open, dedicated to freshly prepared food. Pithos, perhaps, sparked that trend, having been open 7 years now (and expanding in size in 2014). With ingredients sourced each morning, and no leftovers (or freezer in which to put them), the menu can vary in content as the seasons progress. It’s a small size, so no large parties, but you simply have to try their soup, the unofficial Croatian national dish.QB-3, Žerjavićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 82, pithos.zagreb@ gmail.com, www.pithos.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn). PNGBW facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Restaurants A place to push the boat out: pricey, but worth it.QB-1, Jurjevska 65a, tel. (+385-1) 467 73 35, info@bistroapetit. com, www.apetit.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 - 15. (85 - 135kn). ALGBW

Italian Basilico Hidden inside a courtyard, on a narrow street, just off of the main square, this modern and chic restaurant is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite Italian specialities, pasta and pizza.They offer a variety of penne, njoki, risotto and spaghetti dishes, along with an assortment of pizzas. As well, it’s a great spot to start your day off with a hearty breakfast of eggs and delicious croissants with marmalade.QC-2, Petrinjska 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 22/(+385-1) 48 77 56, basilico.fineitalianfood@ gmail.com. Open 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 45kn).

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Zalogajnica “Kod Duje” If you’re east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Kvaternikov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection of meaty and bean stews.QJ-3, Martićeva 62, tel. (+385-1) 461 06 43. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (15 - 50kn).

ABW

International American Steak & Grill House For a restaurant based in one of Zagreb’s busiest hotels, slap bang in the middle of the city, this place is deceptively sedate. Well air conditioned, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, and wonderfully spacious for the taller diner this American Steak and Grill House will prepare and cook your meat to specific recipes. Getting hungry just typing this. QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), info@ hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (39 - 139kn). PAGBW Bistro Apetit The menu is gem-like in its perfection: a small selection of imaginative dishes tailored to the season. The dishes themselves are an essay in flavour, texture and presentation. Headed up by Viennese chef Christian Cabalier, the wine list is also fabulous and the desserts to die for.

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Luca’s If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame.QI-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60, senka.rubelj@gmail.com, www.pizzalucas. com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn).

PAGBW Perica Known as one of the best places in Zagreb to stop by for a delicious lunch, Perica offers a wide variety of fresh Italian dishes, such as ravioli, linguine, spaghetti and gnocchi, made from homemade pasta, as well as Croatian specialty čušpajz, a hearty stew. Located slightly outside of the city center, this restaurant is decorated in a simple and modern style and offers a different menu daily. A great spot to keep in mind for a business or a casual lunch with friends, as it’s only open until 18:00 from Monday to Friday.QI-4, 8. Vrbik 24, tel. (+385-1) 619 80 53, info@klopaperica. hr, www.klopaperica.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed August 01 - 18. (25 - 49kn). PiAGB

Mighty fine wine Basement This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure.QB-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, info@basement-bar.net, www.basementbar.net. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants

Seasonal, delicious, homemade vegetarian food with a wide range of vegan and gluten free options.

Choose from over 20 homemade vegetarian, vegan and gluten free salads, hot dishes, daily soup, freshly pressed juices and desserts. Salads you pay by weight, so you can take as much or as little as you want.

Eat in or take out, however you wish to enjoy our nishta food.

Dobra vina A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 15:00), a variety of tapas (after 15:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar.QJ-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+3851) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 125kn). PALGBW

Vege Restaurants Nishta It’s far from ništa that you’ll get here, should you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. Staff are almost overly helpful, and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards.QB-2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44, kontakt@nishtarestaurant. com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (49 - 60kn). PA6GW Zrno Bio Bistro A vegan restaurant in Zagreb? Surely not! And yet here it is, in a sheltered courtyard, and looking solid.

100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.QB-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+3851) 484 75 40, restoran@bio-zrno.hr. Open 12:00 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). PA6GBW

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Local Flavour

The Little Market in the Attic Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market in the Attic (Mali plac na Tavanu) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Literally held in the attic of Jelena Nikolić, a food stylist and blogger, the market is open every Saturday and you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

QI-2, Sinkovićeva 8, sjediijedi.tportal.hr. The Little Market in the Attic will be open on July 03 & 10 at Frooom 2014, at Kino Tuškanac and at the Art Jam, in front of HDLU, on July 05, 17, 24, 31. It is closed all of August and will reopen on September 06. J

A Green Fingered Discount In Croatia, gardening is a longtime tradition, which allows us to cultivate as many flowers, fruits, vegetables, and spices as we want, in a variety of places, from the balconies of our apartment buildings in the city, to our grandmother’s garden at the foothills of the Velebit Mountains.Throughout history, our people have always worked on the land and have grown the food that would be eaten around the family dinner table. Nowadays, after visiting their grandparents in the village, grandchildren are still sent back to school, in the city, with fresh organic fruits and vegetables.

When it comes to naturally grown foods, we are still very spoiled and are often unaware of the privileges which we enjoy by having access to homegrown crops.

Lately, each year, an increasing number of small family farms are being created by the younger generation. Along with the older generation, young families are leaving the crowded fast-paced city lifestyle behind and are moving to the countryside and starting a whole new life. Even people living together in the city have begun to come together and buy or lease large uncultivated land parcels on the edges of the city to jointly plant their own fruits and vegetables.During your stay in Croatia, it is definitely recom34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Jelena Iva Nikolić, hostess to the Little Market in the Attic

mended that you visit one of these farms and meet some of these inspirational people who will show you how they grow their own crops. These visits will allow you to connect with Mother Nature and is especially valuable for modern urban people who are spending more and more time in the virtual world and feel less of a connection with the real world. There is no greater happiness than to follow a zucchini from its seed, which was planted, watered, and nurtured, into a full grown vegetable. Afterwards, it is picked and made into a delicious dish. In Zagreb, you can see many gardens on the rooftops and balconies. One of the most famous is Zelene Andreje on Šenoina Street, by the Central Train Station. As well, you can meet small farm producers at the grocery story, Mali plac na Tavanu, where you can organise a trip to visit a farm and do some volunteer work at the same time. There are many farms, which are located not far from Zagreb and can even be reached by using public transport.In the northern regions of Zagreb, such as Šestine, there are many orchards where farmers offer free picking of their organic fruit. After working in the fields, you are even treated to a tasty snack and a glass of wine beneath the shade of the trees. This is not only true in Zagreb and the surrounding county, but in all of the counties in Croatia, which have abundant small farms. Each year, farmers open their farms to visitors to pick the crops they have grown, from olives to grapes, apples, hazelnuts, walnuts, carob, peaches, tangerines, and lemons. If you just want to learn how to pick raspberries or blackberries, which are very sensitive and must be picked very gently, with patient and skilled hands, then Istria is the best place to visit.

Croatia is a paradise for growing, harvesting, and tasting organic fresh foods and if you don’t believe us, visit a small family farm and see for yourself! zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Local Flavour Food Markets If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.

Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not shortchanged or given spoiled produce?

Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. Štrukle

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The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from.

Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with papr ika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.

Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes.

There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all. At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys.

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Local Flavour

Dolac, ZGH Archives

Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons.

Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip.

The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro.The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more.

So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

Local Dishes Here in Zagreb we’re at the crossroads of a number of culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire so it’s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you’ll hear 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals.But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples.Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there’s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn’t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions. Something you might find on lunchtime menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak.

This is an all-in-one meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings. Then there’s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that’s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk.

Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy.You can try these foods in Zagreb’s traditional-style restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you’d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locally-reared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

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29-31.08 | Vrbovec What our forefathers used to eat

Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form an important part of local and national identity. The festival Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our folks used to eat”) is a celebration of the foods of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. A programme of workshops shows you how to make these tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment including traditional games and a packed programme of music. For more info see www.tz-vrbovec.hr or contact the Vrbovec Tourist Board, Trg Petra Zrinskog 7a, Vrbovec, tel. (+385-1) 279 16 61, tzvrbovec@tzzz.hr.

06.09 | Sveta Nedelja Something fishy!

A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb region; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the test! Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board, Trg A. Starčevića 5, tel. (+385-1) 337 39 19, info@ svetanedelja.hr, www.svetanedelja.hr.

11-14.09 | Jastrebarsko Jaska Wine Celebration

To the southwest of Zagreb, the pleasant town of Jastrebarsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly picturesque wine-producing region. Every September, the locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great opportunity to try some of the excellent local wines, culinary specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart from that, there’s a full programme of entertainment laid on – it’s a truly jolly occasion. Jastrebarsko Tourist Board, Vlatka Mačeka 1, Jastrebarsko, tel. (+385-1) 627 29 40, info@tzgj.hr, www.tzgj.hr.

Culinary Delight – Samobor Salami

Homemade and allnatural, this salami, produced in a traditional manner with high-quality meat is full of natural spices and an authentic salty taste.

Dried Cheese Dragec, the smell and taste of tradition at your table

High-quality smoked natural cheese full of additional flavours of garlic, bell peppers and green peppers is perfect as an appetizer with cold cuts and red wine.

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Coffee & Cakes Eli’s Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www. eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW

Jutro

Cafes Blok bar A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNG� BXW Booksa Chill, laid back, and the meeting place of the Association for the Promotion of Cultures ‘Kulturtreger’, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis, and every second Thursday offers up and coming bands and artists a chance to showcase their talents. A far-reaching vision indeed.QD2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa. hr, www.booksa.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica A quirky sort of place, which is a rarity around Zagreb. Sitting on a corner it’s ideally situated to provide shade and shelter, in equal measure, depending on whether you want to dodge the sun, or rain. The interior is below street level, and the interior must be seen at least once, to be believed; barber’s chairs and ceramic urinals (non-functional) are dotted around the room. A handy spot to relax for any reason.QC-1, Tkalčićeva 8. Open 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. BXJ 38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Institut Parfumeur Flores Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior.QB-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 15:00. PJAGBW Jutro Sitting outside of this small coffee shop you could be forgiven if you imagined yourself on an island in the Adriatic.

Set just off the street this cafe sells only Croatian homemade produce as well as acting as gallery for some fantastic art pieces (all of which are for sale).QC-2, Teslina 9, jutrouteslinoj@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

K&K Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square.QC-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX MK (Krolo) Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar.QC-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

JBXW Retro Café Bar The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds.QH-4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, info@retro-nightcaffe.com, retro-nightcaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. PNBXW zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Coffee & Cakes U Dvorištu Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB-3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. PENBXW Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.

Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.

QB-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@ velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

Small Plates and Sweet Treats Mak na konac The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc. Open 9 - 9, there’s no excuse to pop your head in and see what’s on offer. More expensive than other places, but well worth it.QE-2, Ulica popa Dukljanina 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, www.maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Millennium It’s not just the taste of the ice cream that drives us wild, it’s also the sight of the billows of ice cream like multi-coloured clouds laced with chocolate, fruit sauce and nuts: mmmmmmm, slaver. Presentation is everything, after all.

Try the “Crick-o-Crick” flavour, we dare you. Warning: there is no turning back. The seating area outside is particularly stylish.QC-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 50, info@slasticarnica-millennium.hr, www.slasticarnicamillennium.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.

PJNGBW Orijent There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.

QJ-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ ymail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGW Torte i to Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!QC-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www. torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

PNGBW

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Nightlife Bars Bacchus Jazz Bar Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. NBXW

Green Gold Club Archives

Alternative Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www. mochvara.hr.

Prostor Do Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become.QI-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.

PBXW Route 66 This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah!QJ-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, kizohc@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 01:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. EBW 40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Caffe Bar Sova Caffe Bar Sova, which means owl in Croatian, truly lives up to it’s name, as it is decorated with owl knickknacks - candles, pillows, clocks- in a classy and subtle style. Located underground in a spacious room with brick arches, it’s furnished with lush black modern sofas and tables. A low stage is positioned in the center of the room for live music nights. Jazz, rock, solo singers and guitar performances take place Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. It’s the perfect spot for non-smokers to enjoy some live music, as there is a separate room for smokers.QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 10 (Entrance from Gajeva), tel. (+385-) 099 233 70 00/(+385-) 098 218 941. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. EGBXW Corner bar Situated in the new Ban Centar, urban meets zen in this tranquil, yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting, among contemporary and chic decor, to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with your friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste! As well, they host various musical evenings and have multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations. QC-2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+3851) 484 53 93. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PTJ6UEGBXW Kino Klub Grič There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06. Open 07:00 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW

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Nightlife Melin Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. EBXW Mojo bar, wine rakija & co.

Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD-2, Ulice fra Grge Martića 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.

PA6BXW Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices.

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Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them?QA-4, Savska 14. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B Taban Bar Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which is located on one of Zagreb’s most popular walking streets. The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some friends and people watch. Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalkboard and comfy couches create an urban feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event details. QC-1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, reception@tabanzagreb.com, www. tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00.

Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down.QI-4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com.

Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 01:00. Closed Mon. PBX

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Nightlife

Green Gold Club Archives

Clubs Lemon Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne.QC-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Open 08:00 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW Mikser Situated in a discrete location outside of the city center, this club is an unexpected treasure found amongst the rubble of building complexes. Mikser is entered through a swerving tunnel into a greyish moon and neon green coloured room, which gives a futuristic space-like feel to the place. Containing two separate floors, this club offers more than just parties, but also cultural events, such as exhibitions and workshops.QK-3, Donje Svetice 40, info@ mikserclub.com, www.mikserclub.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. GW Pepermint What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans two-storeys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite.QB2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www. pepermint-zagreb.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJAGXW Sirup Sirup recently moved to a new location, the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now situated behind the main train station. At night, the building gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London atmosphere. The music is so intense that you’ll feel the notes vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights!QJ-3, Koturaška cesta 1, sirupfun@gmail.com, www.sirupclub.com. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

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VIP Club This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club.hr, www.vip-club.hr.

Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, bikers.beer. factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGBW Sheridan’s Pub Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing. QSavska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@ gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

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Sightseeing Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QK-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo is open 09:00 - 20:00 (July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (September), ticket office 09:00 - 18:30 (July, August), 09:00 - 18:00 (September). Admission 20 - 30kn.

Mirogoj Cemetery Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ-1, Mirogoj bb. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coatsof-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.QC-1, Kamenita bb.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off.

It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QC-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Maksimir walk, Photo by Vesna Špoljar

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Sightseeing Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a new impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography.

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Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed ‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

Meštrović Atelier Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@tehnickimuzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.

QB-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlology Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QD-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July - September Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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Sightseeing

Art Pavilion, Photo by Kristijan Tabet

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Galleries Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH-3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed August 02-25. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media.

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From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.

QC-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@ brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 20 - 25kn.

Landmarks The Croatian State Archives (Državni arhiv) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb.

This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB-4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, hda@ arhiv.hr, www.arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Sightseeing The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.

Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C-2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9.

Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Tomislav Gotovac Footprints Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?

Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you try!QC-2, Ilica 8.

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City It’s been there since last summer, but for all the reconstruction works in the area you can be wholly forgiven for not realising as much. Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze.

The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg Bana Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC-2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

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Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1889 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans. The Botanical Garden this year marks its 125th anniversary and in celebrating this remarkable floral achievement, a variety of exhibitions, educational events and garden parties will be held.QB-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Closed November - April 1. Admission free.

Curiosities Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB-2, Tomićeva bb, javnost@zet.hr, www. zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.

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Sightseeing Horrible Histories

Secrets of Grič Archives

Though many travellers consider it an annoyingly necessary pit stop between home and the sunny coast, Zagreb has no shortage of curiosities to take in. We strongly advise you take a seat in the main square, Trg bana Jelačića, to understand the city. It gives you an excellent vantage point from which to observe what life is like in the Croatian capital. If paintings and relics are your thing, it’s got plenty of those too.

Crna kraljica (The Black Queen) There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on.

Grička vještica (The Witch from Grič) Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales.

Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”.

Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch.

Secrets of Grič Archives

The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her.

The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale.

He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer).

Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination.

A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today.

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s upper town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica!

Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge) In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-sounding name.

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The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C-3/4.

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass).

Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Zagreb Mummy Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.

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Babinjak - Bathing establishment by river Sava around 1930

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Zagreb Outdoors On the south side of the lake there is a nudist beach, whilst on the Island of Trešnjevka there is a swimming area for people with disabilities, which is equipped with all the necessary infrastructure. All beaches have toilets, changing cubicles, bars, kiosks. The beaches at Jarun are tested annually and have always met the regulated criteria and carry the Blue Flag.

Watersports Sea? Pah! You can row, sail, kayak, canoe, windsurf and dive to your heart’s content at Jarun. You can join one of the clubs if you’re already up to speed; otherwise, try these helpful folks for some lessons.

Rowing: Srečko Šuk, Rowing Club Zagreb, (+385-1) 383 15 85 / (+385-) 098 30 21 73, www.vsz.hr

Bundek, Photo by Ivan Šmuk

Jarun Zagreb’s answer to Palm Beach! Some years ago, a survey to discover what people feel when they hear the name of a given Zagreb district showed that the name ‘Jarun’ awakened feelings of pleasure in most respondents. We strapped on our blades and hotpants, tucked our fluffy dogs under our arms and went to find out why.

A man made paradise?

Don’t expect glacial beauty. It’s a man made lake. But it is fed by underground springs, so it’s pretty clean - at least until the suntan oil slicks form in July.There are two lakes - big and small, and six islands. The shore of Lake Jarun is regulated by 2500 meters of sandy beach and the entire area is filled with recreational and sports centers connected to kilometres of hiking and biking trails.

The north side of the lake is dead straight because of the regatta course. However, we recommend walking around a bit, and you’ll find that it gets really quite pleasant. The small lake in the east has a pebbly beach, swan sanctuary and is fringed by cafes, bars, eating places and clubs. The big lake behind the regatta course even gets pretty wild in places, and one of the islands is devoted to mother nature.

And we were really surprised with exactly how much there is to do. Here’s what you can find where.

Jarun offers an abundant amount of recreational opportunities: Running, Cycling, Roller Blading There’s a 6km track ‘Janica 2002’ and 1 cycling and roller blading path with a length of 5.5 km right the way round where you can amble, blade or cycle at will, perfecting that tush. Placards bearing stories of ‘Croatian Sporting Greats’, some of whom have spectacular facial topiary, give you all the motivation you need.

Swimming Beaches are on the south side, the Univerzijada and Trešnjevka islands and the little lake, and are really quite clean, whatever those picky Dalmatians might say.

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Sailing: Igor Božičević, Sailing Club Sveti Nikola, (+385-) 098 20 66 23 Windsurfing: Slobodan Bosnić, (+385-95) 529 16 24, www.kjd-zagreb.hr Scuba diving: Call the Diving Club’s Instructor Lovorka Šimunec (+385-) 091 562 67 44, www.dps-zagreb.hr Canoeing and kayaking: Canoe club Končar, (+385-1) 383 30 19, public.carnet.hr/kanu_klub_koncar/ Fishing Fishing permits are permitted everywhere but if you wish to fish on the Regatta straight, a permit can be bought at Jarun Management in the Univerzijada building (Aleja Matije Ljubeka 3). Day permits cost 60kn. Night fishing is allowed on Fridays and Saturdays.

Dry land sports As any self-respecting beach zone should, Jarun has sand volleyball courts by the big lake, where there’s also a handball court and football pitches. By both beaches you can also play mini golf, table tennis, skittles and bocce (boćanje). The south beach also has a floodlit skate park with eight ramps and night illumination.

There’s a jumping park with all kinds of bouncy things that’ll tire the little monsters out (finally). Kids can enjoy the three available playgrounds (Big Lake, Small Lake, Island of Rowers), and on the Isle of Trešnjevka there is a playground for children with disabilities.For more info call the Jarun info sports section on (+385-1) 642 13 55. And look at www.sportskiobjekti.hr.

With the vast range of recreational facilities at Jarun, the icing on the cake is a friendly barbecue or picnic with family and friends one can enjoy with friends. You’ll find small open wooden houses that are ideal for a picnic in the countryside as well as stone barbecues around the Big and Small Lake that will make Fed Flinstone proud. There are numerous artistic, environmental and educational activities such as Litopunktura Zagreb, Zagreb maze, Solar plexus Europe, Multisensory Park, the Wood Theme Park for a new life’. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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More on healthy living at: www.slovenia-terme.si

A story about healthy living There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health.

The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia.

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Zagreb Outdoors After a day out of fun and excitement, visitors often wind down by going to one of the numerous restaurants at Jarun with culinary specialties, drinks, coffee or cool cocktails available in one of the bars with a terrace overlooking the lake.

Pelican Pick and choose with this café bar and beer house that can turn things up.QG-5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 7. Open: 09:00 - 02:00.B

Bundek once and now, Photo by Željko Krčadinac

Beach bar Jarun Guitar evenings, house, good selection of beer, beach chairs overlooking the lake. All you need are your sunglasses!QG-5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb. Open: 08:00 - 24:00B Aruba Cocktails, view of the lake. Great to chill!QG-5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 23. Open: 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sun 08:00 - 04:00.B Jarunski dvori Located right near the entrance to Lake Jarun, two open terraces, well kept garden, food galore on offer super friendly staff. A little oasis just outside of town!QG-4, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 8, www.jarunskidvori.hr. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (40 - 170kn).BPAG Eat me beach bar Homemade pie with cheese, blueberries, cranberries, honey, mint, cocktails, freshly squeezed juices.QG-4, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.B And when the moon comes out and turns into dark, Jarun is a great place for a night out and good company as it offers something for everyone.

Jarun Cup Archives

The Gallery Would you like a cocktail, or a bottle of champagne to drink while dancing to world famous DJs?QG-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-) 099 444 24 44, info@gallery. hr, www.gallery.hr. Open , Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.

PAB Ray A grill bar turn club at night! Meat is the treat and chicken drumsticks available all night long as cooked according to their secret recipe.QG-4, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 25, www. ray.hr.B

Bundek Novi Zagreb’s nature haven where picnics, barbecues, fishing, walking, cycling, and roller-blading are a blast. Bundek consists of a Big Lake for swimming and sunbathing, whereas the small Lake is for enjoying the many plants and animal species that reside there. The three playgrounds are super duper to keep the toddlers to older kids active. The two cafes offer freshly beverages throughout the day and maintain open terraces that overlook the lake.

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Sea cups - Lidia Boševski

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar QH-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@ arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Avenue Mall QI-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

City Center one East QL-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www. citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Art galleries @telier Every angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark.QC-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-) 091 123 01 10, www.angels-by-ella.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

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Galerija Kerubin Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala A variety of pictures and sculptures.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@ galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Inkubator (Tkalčićeva 30) Contemporary art gallery.QC-1, tel. (+385-1) 557 77 37, info@galerija-inkubator.hr, www.galerija-inkubator.hr.

Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N raZGlednice This is a must visit spot for any tourist (or resident) who finds themselves fascinated with the architecture and pace of life of the Croatian capital. It’s small, to be sure, but within you will find photos, of all shapes and sizes, reflecting the aforementioned elements of the city. Some are rather straightforward, while others will have you mesmerised. Prices are set to suit all pockets and only great things lie ahead for this establishment.QC-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 566 43 13, www.kristijantabet.com.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, except for when the owner is out recording new material. For more information, please call the number printed on the entrance to the gallery.

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Shopping More style for less cash

Ulični Ormar

Britanski trg antique market Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.

Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin.

Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA-2, Britanski trg.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.QK-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

Ulični Ormar Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets.QD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. July 21 - August 15 Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. A

Souvenirs Brokula&Ž Concept Store An eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material.QC-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz.com. Open 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Lega-lega The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods.QB-2, Masarykova 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 53 69, info@lega-lega. com, www.lega-lega.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

A good old vinyl Dancing Bear CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.

QB-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Dobar zvuk Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices.QC-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05, stjepan.poslek@zg.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Free Bird We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kn.QA-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr.

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Art Shops Archaeological Museum Shop Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.

QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A HNK Art Shop Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@ hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A Jasmina i lutkice A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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Kloto Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB-2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Msu Shop A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC-2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@gmail.com. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Zeleni slon Accessorize with earrings, brooches, necklaces and tote bags made using creative patterns and animal designs.

QB-2, Ilica 14, petrazabcic@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Comics Lastan Comic fans will sigh ‘I think I’m in heaven’ upon entering this small comic shop with thousands of strips on offer. It encompasses a comic library, gallery and souvenir section.

Authors and illustrators are known to hold book signings and presentations there!QJ-3, Radnička cesta 22, tel.

(385-1) 605 58 82, lastan@lastan.hr, www.lastan.hr.

Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Jewellery Lapidarium-zlatarna mario At Lapidarium, you can find a galore of engagement and wedding rings, earrings, bracelets, as well as necklaces that C are described as ‚a new dimension‘ of jewelry. Create your own signature piece, with never before seen styles, that M will have you setting fashion trends. QC-1,Radićeva 10, lapidarium@net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 Y - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A CM

Medaković MY Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were createdCYby goldsmith, Renato Medaković. QC-2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, rmedakovic@ CMY gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

K Closed Sun. Otvoreni atelier Lumezi Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely.QC2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Čajoteka All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QB-2, Jurišićeva 19 (Rotonda Center), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@ cajoteka.info, www.cajoteka.info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kulin Galović Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat).

It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Shopping CITY CENTRE SHOPPING Ulični Ormar D-2, Jurišićeva 16, tel. (+385-1)

492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, July 21 - August 15 Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

Gavrilović A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.

QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JA Gligora Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan, located on the Island Pag.QC-2, Dolac Market, tel. (+3851) 580 12 84, www.sirena.hr. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A

Galerija Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis. hr, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

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Stripovi C-3 Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77 77 prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

Galerija Laudato D-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Impor-

tanne Galleria, mezanin 317), tel. (+385-1) 464 68 88, www.galerije.laudato.hr. Open 11:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

Kuća zelenog čaja A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@ kucazelenogcaja.com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

Wine Shops Bornstein This is a boutique wine store in town and its run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its new owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, info@bornstein.hr, www. bornstein.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Vivatina The wine is per excellence but one must exacerbate the traditional cuisine ala Croata! Quality cheese, prosciutto, venison pate, spreads and condiments, capers, pastries, traditional sausages, dried octopus tentacles, olive oil….

Mouth-watering anti pasta foods and to delight! As for the name itself, wine is the forte here with over 500 labels from across the globe. So one ought to combine a fine drop with a time-honoured nibble!QI-4, Prisavlje 2 (Boćarski dom), tel. (+385-1) 619 59 68, maloprodaja@ vivatina.hr, www.vivatina.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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Luxury Maria One of the most exclusive multi-brand shops in Croatia and their second luxurious conceptual boutique.

Indulge yourself in some of the most prestigious designer collections by fashion greats such as Alaia, Lanvin, Valentino, or Saint Laurent, for the ultimate chic shopping experience.QB-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@mariastore.hr, www. mariastore.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. JA

Avenu

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FINEST TRADITIONAL AND MODERN JEWELLERY AT ZAKS STORES Zaks jewellery stores offer a wide range of traditional gold and silver jewellery, perfect as a souvenir from Croatia! Of course, jewellery made from precious metals has always been considered fashionable and valuable, and this summer the silver jewellery in vibrant colours is particularly in high demand. Intensely coloured details that ornament the pieces from the latest Zaks’s jewellery collection perfectly fit the new fashion trends.

Besides the possibility of tax free shopping, some other benefits are awaiting all Zaks customers, so stop by one of our Zaks stores in the city of Zagreb and try on a new collection of jewellery which you will find hard to resist.

Zaks focus has always been on providing a wide range of choices for jewellery customers who seek excellent value in fine jewellery. For this reason, Zaks designs and provides much of its jewellery to meet its customers' tastes and expectations for quality and style. For that reason, along with jewellery, Zaks offers gold and silver coins of finesse mark 999 with additional artistic value in religious motives on them.

As the best-known name in Croatian retail jewellery, Zaks has a broad selection of classic and modern gold and silver items including diamond jewellery, cultured pearls, corals and an extensive wedding jewellery selection. In fact, it is the extensive bridal collection that represents the largest part of the store’s business and each year a lot of tourists decide to celebrate their journey, begining or a step-stone in their relationship with traditional croatian ring or necklace „botuni“ from Zaks. (www.zaks.hr)

Find a perfect souvenir

Avenue Mall Zagreb, Av. Dubrovnik 16 tel. +3851 6535 965

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Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. +3851 3706 009 Masarykova 9, tel. +3851 4855 133

Arena Zagreb, Lanište 32 tel. +3851 6439 630

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Hotels 5 stars Esplanade Zagreb Hotel QC-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www. esplanade.hr. 208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €129 169, 48 Delux Rooms €148 - 188, 13 Delux Suite €219 - 259, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHA� R6UIFLEGBKDW hhhhh Sheraton Zagreb Hotel QD-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+3851) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www. hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 295, 23 Executive Rooms €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). PiJHAR6UFLGB� KDXCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb QA-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 - 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). PZOTJHA� R6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhhh

4 stars Arcotel Allegra QD-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels.com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). PJHA� R6UIFLEGBKDSwW hhhh Aristos QJ-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 160, 141 doubles €99 - 170, 3 suites €200 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €375 - 470). PiHAR6UFLGB� KDXSwW hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria QC-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+3851) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. 100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHA� RULGKW hhhh Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb QJ-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree. com. 152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHAR6UFL� GDCwW hhhh facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria Petrinjska 71, Zagreb, Hrvatska/Croatia Phone +385 1 4808 900 Fax +385 1 4808 908 e-mail: sales@hotelastoria.hr www.bestwestern.com www.hotelastoria.hr FREEparking PARKING AVAILABLE free available

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Hotels Dubrovnik QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+3851) 486 35 07, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www. hotel-dubrovnik.hr. 222 rooms (77 singles €89 - 99, 87 King Twin Rooms €115 - 119, 50 Delux Rooms €129 - 145, 4 Junior Suites €160, 3 Executive Suites €185, 1 Presidential Suite €500). POTJHA6UFL� GBKXW hhhh Hotel International QC-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+3851) 610 86 44, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotelinternational.hr. 207 rooms (140 singles €70 - 130, 56 doubles €80 - 143, 8 triples €150 - 196, 1 suite €219, 1 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). PO� THAR6UFLGKDW hhhh Palace QC-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace. hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 - 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 - 185).

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3 stars Best Western Hotel Stella QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella. hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141).

PAULGW hhh Central QD/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. 76 rooms (38 singles €65 - 70, 29 doubles €75 - 85, 5 triples €115 - 120, 4 apartments €140). Pi� JHAW hhh Jadran QD-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 555 85 00, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hotel-jadran. com.hr. 49 rooms (44 singles €74, 44 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). PJAR6ULGKW hhh Jägerhorn QC-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn. hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, 2 apartments €159). PiJALGBKW hhh Laguna QA-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www.hotellaguna.hr. 166 rooms (62 singles €50 - 70, 83 doubles €60 - 80, 15 triples €70 - 90, 6 suites €90 - 120). Pi� JHAR6UIFGBKDXW hhh 62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Directory Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through.

QD-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Language School Berlitz Internationally recognised throughout the world, Berlitz is the ideal partner to provide training or certification in Croatian or any other language. The Berlitz Zagreb Office offers language lessons and business workshops set up for individuals or companies with verified international methods and standardised programmes.Q C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385 1)4812 116, berlitz-zg@berlitz.hr , www.berlitz. hr , Open 08:00-22:00, Sat 08:00-14:00. Closed Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.

Dubrava QL-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.

Ilica QG-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.

Ozaljska QH-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.

Siget QI-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

LGBT LGBT centar Social and cultural space, working as a day centre from Wednesday to Saturday 17:00 - 22:00, whilst other days of working time depend on the programme.QD-3, Petrinjska 27, www.lgbtcentar.com. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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croatian chamber of economy Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803,hgkzg@ hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post Office QD-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

TAX VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

All the latest news facebook.com/ zagrebinyourpocket Summer 2014

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Street register 29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4

Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2

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Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1

Photo by Valentina Bunić Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 C-3 Svačićev trg Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1

Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 D-4 Trnjanska cesta Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

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