JZA - Your Jewellery Magazine • Autumn 2024

Eastern Cape jewellery to treasure A caddie on your wrist

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

CONTENTS

6

8

Fall for autumn gems

A treasure trove of gemstones in rich earth tones is ripe for collecting

Loudly local

The Wild Coast Trading Company sources beautifully handmade jewellery from artists in the Eastern Cape

10

12

Encapsulating might and majesty

Enter the Year of the Dragon!

Taking SA design to Italy

SA jewellery designer

Vijah Shah exhibited his latest collection at Italy’s largest jewellery fair

16

18 20

Tee off in style

A caddie on your wrist

Metal matters

The case for platinum rings

Homegrown magic

Meet three of SA’s talented female jewellery designers

22

From the 2024 red carpet

This year’s red carpet transformed into a showcase of stunning ensembles and exquisite jewellery

A kaleidoscope of colours

Ring in the new season

DNA jewellery

One-of-a-kind keepsakes

Watch chokers: yea or nay?

Apparently this trend is real and you can buy one yourself

Mother’s Day gift guide

Your guide to celebratory jewellery pieces perfect for Mom's special day

Rooted in Africa

Jewels between friends

Global connect

JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

Designer profile: Ruth Aymer

Capturing the essence of ancient civilisations

JA note from the EDITORIN-CHIEF

ewellery is something most of us wear every day in some form or another. However, its importance often goes much further than just accessorising an outfit. Much of the jewellery worn by women – and men – is meaningful to them. The sentimental value of jewellery often goes beyond its monetary worth as it represents our personal stories, our connections to loved ones and our innermost emotions.

As I look at the jewellery I’m wearing today, I realise how deeply personal and sentimental some of my own pieces are. Most of our material

possessions get replaced at some point: our cellphones, computers and cars. But none of these carry the emotional connection of our jewellery pieces. I loved my wedding ring from the moment I first saw it and I still do. However, now it means even more to me – it’s a constant reminder of the vows my husband and I made to one another 15 years ago. I also have many other pieces that tell their own stories.

Everyone I know has a piece of jewellery which is extremely meaningful to them and that’s what makes jewellery so unique.

based on love, joy, friendship, good luck, a birthday or an anniversary, achievements, a gift from a parent or grandparent, a special event or even memories of loved ones.

Jewellery is worn not just on our necks, fingers, wrists and ears, but in our hearts and minds. It tells the inside story of who we are and what’s dearest to us.

Enjoy this issue – we loved putting it together for you!

Our emotional attachment to our jewellery pieces is often Adri Viviers

Prepare to feel like a goddess, exuding elegance and grace with these minimalistic, yet modern pieces from local jewellery brands.

Fall for autumn gems

Nature gives us a brilliant palette of colour-changing leaves and a spectacular kaleidoscope of sunsets during autumn. Yet, year round, a treasure trove of gemstones in rich earth tones is ripe for collecting

Gemstone varieties are often named for something they resemble. such as sunstone, fire opal and fire agate, all colours in the autumnal spectrum.

Sunstone gets its phenomenon (called aventurescence) from tiny hematite, copper or goethite platelet inclusions that reflect light. The appearance of the phenomenon depends upon the size of the inclusions: small ones create a reddish or golden sheen on top of any body colour, while larger ones create attractive, glittering reflections. Most sunstones

▶ Half-pearl, half-yellow stone necklace. Galaxy & Co

have yellow, orange or brown body colours.

Fire opals are found in a range of warm hues –red, orange and yellow. They can be transparent, translucent or opaque, usually with a vitreous lustre.

Fire agate is a variety of chalcedony, a micro or cryptocrystalline quartz. With its swirling flares of orange iridescence and flashing streaks of brown, yellow and green, it’s aptly named. It forms in a botryoidal structure, resembling a cluster of grapes. Fire agate is an excellent example of the iridescence phenomenon seen in chalcedony.

Several other gemstones also convey the beauty and variety of autumnal colours:

Amber: Yellow and golden amber are most familiar to consumers, although amber can be transparent red, which increases its

value. Rare instances of strong fluorescence give amber a bluish or greenish appearance that increases its value further. Its amorphous structure makes it a good medium for the preservation of plant and animal inclusions.

Citrine: The natural colour of citrine is rare. Most of the citrine on the market is a result of heat treatment of pale violet amethyst to an attractive yellow that makes it an appealing alternative to topaz and yellow sapphire.

Garnet: Several species of the garnet group also fall into the autumn colour range, the brightest being spessartine, which is typically yellowish-orange to reddish-orange.

Pearls: Golden South Sea pearls are among the most

desired pearls. They’re grown in the gold-lip variety of the oyster Pinctada maxima, which gives them thick nacre and warm, golden tones.

The bounty of autumn gemstones in a palette of brilliantly coloured gemstones makes it fun to fall into the mood of the season.

▲ Wishbone citrine ring. Black Betty

▶ Citrine princess bronze ring.

Philippa Green

◀ Fire opal rings.

Glamira

The Wild Coast Trading Company sources beautifully handmade products, including jewellery, from crafters and artists who’re mostly based in the Wild Coast area of the Eastern Cape

How it started Founder Lisa Jones was helping friends with their business over a busy seasonal market period when she realised how much demand there was for local products from both South African and foreign tourists.

Knowing the local market scene well, she was also aware of how difficult it was for some of the artists to make a living during the rest of the year, even though out-of-towners couldn’t praise some of

A CREATIVE

COLLECTIVE

▶ Beaded Xhosa vest for men.

the local products enough (and continue to purchase them year on year when on holiday here).

Lisa started off with the idea of building an online store for just one crafter/ artist. Then another was added, soon becoming a full-blown website with multiple artists.

Why a creative collective? “At The Wild Coast Trading Company, we ensure that all artists receive a high percentage of their sales and we work on Fairtrade and CoOperative Principles.

“Furthermore, the artists mostly keep their own stock, which enables them

to sell in other locations.

By working closely with the artists, collecting stock once the clients have decided what they love, we ensure that they aren’t out of pocket.

“While the artists can focus on creating beautiful items, we deal with the marketing, selling, packaging and posting of their products. We work within each artist’s capabilities for producing their wares.”

▶ Silver square earring (single).

What’s the aim of The Wild Coast Trading Company? “Our aim is to offer an equal platform to all artists, from street crafters to internationally exhibited ones. Product development with rural and street crafters is a major future goal for us, going forward.

“We hope to directly improve the lives of artists and their communities by

offering a wider platform to them. The Eastern Cape can certainly benefit from any generation of direct and indirect economic benefits. Every other professional involved in the site, whether graphic designers or assistants, are only employed from the Eastern Cape.

“All items are handpicked and vetted for quality before being showcased at the Wild Coast Trading Company.”

View these beautifully handmade pieces at: www.thewildcoasttradingcompany.co.za.

▲ The Thandeka safety pin necklace.

▶ Amethyst and sterling silver ring from the Secret garden range.

▲ Crisp sterling silver doughnut ring.

◀ Men's silver and leather bracelet.

ENTER THE YEAR OF THE

Dragon!

Celebrated for 3 500 years, the Lunar (or Chinese) New Year is the most important festival across much of Eastern Asia – a time for celebration, feasting and spending time with loved ones.

The dragon is the fifth animal in the Chinese zodiac. The Lunar New Year started on 10 February and horoscope experts are predicting that the dragon will bring with it a year of positive changes.

In Chinese culture, the dragon has significant symbolism and is revered. It represents positive qualities such as power, courage, good luck and wisdom. The Chinese dragon is considered to be a celestial and divine creature, with the ability to control natural elements such as wind and water. Fiery and redoubtable, it’s also known to be fiercely persistent.

The dragon is unique because it’s the only mythical creature of all the animals in the Chinese zodiac.

It’s also a powerful and age-old motif in the world of fine jewellery.

So, if you know any dragons, this is their year – and we’ve rounded up the loveliest dragon-themed jewellery to celebrate them.

▲ Year of the Dragon medallion. Brilliant Earth

▲ Game of Thrones dragon sparkling ring. Pandora

CharmSA

Jeulia

Lovisa

The Lunar New Year is a magical time, full of happiness and joy. Prepare to celebrate with dazzling jewellery: an unforgettable gift for a loved one, or yourself

TO ITALY TAKING SA DESIGN

South African jewellery designer Vijah Shah exhibited spectacular pieces from his latest collection at Italy’s largest jewellery fair, Vicenzaoro

The largest jewellery fair in Italy and one of the largest in the world, Vicenzaoro returned from 19-23 January this year, celebrating its 70th anniversary.

The event marked an important milestone for the fair, which has remained contemporary for seven decades, showcasing the latest offerings, styles and designs explored.

Known as “The Jewellery Boutique Show”, the event anticipated the trends of 2024, providing a unique opportunity for networking and inspiration through

meeting the industry’s most cuttingedge designers.

Multi-award-winning South African jewellery designer and manufacturer Vijay Shah exhibited pieces from his latest collection, which he did in partnership with leading South African refinery MetCon, at Vicenzaoro.

His spectacular pieces included the Afri-Talian reversible pendant and earring range.

The inspiration for his Afri-Talian design came from Murano and stained glass,

renowned for its use in jewellery, glassware, ornaments and windows in Italy. The technique and colours reflect additional inspiration from African Ndebele prints, revealing a unique Afri-Talian fusion. As an added surprise, these reversible earrings boast a different colour palette on each side. His designs also included an iconic zebra printinspired brooch called “Idube”.

These pieces were created using Invicon colour technology in beautiful South African platinum.

“I seek inspiration from nature and my surroundings,” says Shah.

“I continuously strive to improve myself and my design concepts.

I find joy in working with colour, as it symbolises passion, joy, growth, abundance and prosperity. Colour has positive energy.”

THE MINIMALIST’S GUIDE

TO elegant JEWELLERY

Minimalist gold jewellery embodies the essence of understated elegance, offering a refined simplicity that speaks volumes

With clean lines, subtle shapes and delicate details, minimal gold jewellery pieces exude a timeless charm that effortlessly complements any style.

From dainty necklaces by Moelry to sleek bracelets by Baguette Design, these versatile accessories add a touch of sophistication to everyday looks.

Embracing the less-is-more approach, minimal jewellery celebrates the beauty of simplicity, making it a must-have addition to any modern wardrobe.

Add a touch of sophistication to everyday looks.

1. Moelry Jewelry

2. Masah Jewellery 3. Baguette Design 4. Signature by FA

5. Nijma M Fine Jewelry 6. Khayal Fine Jewelry 7. STONE Fine Jewelry

Equipped with cutting-edge technology, including a pulsometer and specialised golf apps, TAG Heuer’s latest watch is a golfer’s most versatile and accurate companion

Introducing the most luxurious connected golf watch ever, customised for your best performance on the golf course. The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition adds superior technology to every swing and is an exclusive collector’s set for the discerning golfer.

Crafted for excellence, it’s versatile and built to perform. It’s a watch that transcends the ordinary, designed for those who dare to stand out.

The Calibre E4 movement ensures accurate timekeeping on and off the course. With a full-day battery life, it’s equipped for every challenging golf journey.

YOUR WRIST A CADDIE ON

The custom casing showcases the collaboration’s vibrant colours and includes an extra black rubber strap, an additional ball-marker, a set of three balls, the charging dock with its USB-C cable, the main socket, a quick start guide, an instruction manual and the TAG Heuer international warranty –all set to conquer the green.

Finished your last round?

Track your strokes on the go, thanks to accurate 3D renderings of your ball’s trajectory. Detailed overviews of your previous shots will help

you select the best club and route to each hole.

Where to next?

Explore highresolution 2D maps of hazards and distances on more than 40 000 golf courses worldwide.

Whether you'd like to check your performance, track your health or simply stay connected, manage your digital life with ease and be ready for any situation on or off the golf course.

The Calibre E4 movement ensures accurate timekeeping on and off the course. With a full-day battery life, it’s equipped for every challenging golf journey.

TAG Heuer’s golf ambassador

Five-time European Tour winner Tommy Fleetwood won the 2018 edition of the European Ryder Cup. In 2017, he claimed the Abu Dhabi HSBC Championship, placed fourth in the US Open and won the Open de France.

“Golf to me is constantly getting better. All the technology that’s created for it makes it easier to play golf at any level, which can only make it more enjoyable,” he says.

The stylish British golf prodigy’s watch selection is the TAG Heuer 45mm Connected Calibre E4 Golf Edition in titanium.

Image courtesy www.tagheuer.com

platinum rings THE CASE FOR

You have many choices to make when you’re selecting your engagement ring and wedding bands and your decision about which metal to wear is one of the most important ones.

Platinum is a silver-white precious metal that, though it has various uses, is probably best known in association with jewellery. Along with white gold and sterling silver, it’s one of the most important white metals used by the jewellery industry.

Rare, enduring and naturally bright and beautiful, platinum’s sure to be top of your list when choosing a metal for your engagement ring.

With its lustrous, silver-coloured tone, it’s no wonder platinum is one of the most popular metals for fine jewellery

▶

◀ Platinum grooved comfy fit gents' legend band.

DiamondCorporation

Glamira

Bellagio

My Girl solitaire diamond engagement ring. Shimansky

Glamira

A natural white beauty

Unlike white gold, platinum is naturally white in colour. White gold must be plated with rhodium to give it its silvery-white sheen and this plating process needs to be repeated over the years to prevent the yellow tones of white gold from emerging.

Durability

Platinum is an incredibly durable metal, more resistant to nicks and scratches than gold metals. Platinum is also a “sticky” metal, meaning that it doesn’t wear away. When you scratch it, the metal’s simply displaced and doesn’t flake off. It can be polished multiple times without loss of metal.

Versatility

Lustrous and colourless, platinum pairs really well with other jewellery and clothing colours.

◀ Platinum and diamond Beatrice ring.

Henrietta Botha Studio

◀ Cushion tanzanite halo diamond and platinum ring. J ack Friedman

If diamonds are forever… Then your metal should be too! Opting for platinum ensures your engagement ring will weather every adventure that may lie ahead.

It’s hypo-allergenic

Platinum’s purity makes it a hypo-allergenic metal. It’s the perfect choice for those with sensitive skin.

In conclusion, platinum rings are worth considering for those seeking a luxurious, durable and hypo-allergenic option. Its unmatched durability, timeless beauty and investment value make it a premium choice.

Rare, enduring and naturally bright and beautiful, platinum’s sure to be top of your list when choosing a metal for your engagement ring.

▲ Handmade platinum ring set with old mine-cut diamonds. Veronica Anderson Always and Forever Moissanite

PHILIPPA GREEN. On a trip to Mexico, Green was introduced to Taxco – a small silver-mining village where she enrolled in a school that taught basic jewellery-making skills. The rudimentary finishing and hands-on creation she experienced ignited the fire that led her to a diploma in jewellery design back in Durban and, ultimately, her own label, which she’s been running for almost two decades.

Her work and label have evolved organically over the years, with a strong focus on creating uniqueness. For her, success isn’t defined by wealth, fame or status, but rather the happiness and inspiration of turning raw materials into practical, wearable works of art.

magic HOMEGROWN

magic

Meet three of SA’s talented female jewellery designers and makers to learn more about their brands and discover their unique and striking collections

MIINELLA JEWELLERY

DESIGN. Jacomien Minnaar’s favourite gift as an eight-year old was a jewellery-making kit her mother brought her from London. The founder and head designer of Miinella Jewellery Design obtained a BA in jewellery design, as well as a Master’s in visual arts at Stellenbosch University. Thereafter, she was invested in the education of jewellery and

gemstones. However, after only a year’s creative internship in California, USA, she came home determined to launch her dream business.

“I’ve always been passionate about people’s beautiful stories and testimonies, good design, gemstones, precious metals and using these as a medium to connect with people. Owning my

own business gives me the platform and freedom to use it for that purpose. I showcase the beauty in each person’s or couple’s story through the creation of unique, personalised jewellery,” she says.

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY. It all started when a younger Rosholt watched her grandmother unpack a chestful of fabulous jewels collected during her travels around the globe. Since then, there’s been a special place in her heart for fine, shiny things.

Specialising in handmade items from a small studio in Loop Street, Cape Town, Anna Rosholt Jewellery celebrates South Africa and the magical peoples, stories and creatures that form its beating heart. The studio also functions as a showroom where clients can browse its offerings in person.

▲ Jenna Ortega wearing Dior at the Primetime Emmy Awards

▼ Ayo Edebiri wearing Boucheron at the Golden Globes

 Anne Hathaway wearing Bvlgari jewels at the SAG Awards

◀ Jennifer Lopez wearing Boucheron at the Golden Globes

▼ Bel Powley attended the SAG 2024 Awards wearing Chanel jewels

JAW-DROPPING

 Fantasia Barrino wearing Messika diamonds at the Grammys

◀ Carey Mulligan at the 2024 SAG Awards wearing Armani Privé and Fred Leighton jewellery

Lexie Moreland/Getty Images

Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images

▼ Victoria Monét wearing Bvlgari jewels

This year’s red carpet at the Oscars transformed into a showcase of stunning ensembles, each adorned with a touch of opulence through exquisite jewellery

◀ Florence Pugh wearing Tiffany & Co at the Golden Globes

▼ Oprah Winfrey wearing Chopard at the Golden Globes

▲ Quinta Brunson at the SAG Awards 2024 wearing jewels by Yvan Tufenkjian

◀ Trevor Noah chose Tiffany & Co to host the 2024 Grammy Awards

◀ Chris Perfetti attended the SAG Awards wearing an Anabela Chan brooch

▶ Selena Gomez wearing Tiffany at the Primetime Emmy Awards

at the Grammys

▲ Taylor Swift wearing De Beers at the Golden Globes

Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images Getty Images

Getty Images

Getty Images GettyImages

RING IN THE NEW SEASON

Ideas blossom, like opportunities of adventure on the open road.

It’s impossible to discover all roads at once, says Alison Antelman of Alison Antelman Design Studio, which is why she takes notes and draws maps for future exploration. “I jot down line drawings on hot pink Post-It notes and a surge of new ideas germinates. Exploration and puzzle-solving are part of the process as I reach my design goals.”

Her work is inspired by canyons and peaks of cityscapes, geological rock formations and observations of both man-made and natural structures that reveal layers of history and time.

Her jewellery is fabricated and

Alison Antelman’s handmade jewellery is inspired by cityscapes, geological rock formations and observations of both man-made and natural structures that reveal layers of history and time

Using hammers, she sinks and forms the metal, creating arrangements which are light and comfortable to wear.

forged by hand, like the structures which inspire it, viewed as silhouettes on the horizon.

The pieces consist of fold-formed hollow pods that are hinged, soldered and joined in varied configurations. Using hammers, she sinks and forms the metal, creating arrangements that are light and comfortable to wear. She uses 18ct and 22ct gold, oxidised sterling silver, stainless steel wire and unusual stones in raw, faceted and smooth surfaces. Hinges, settings and clasps are handmade. Throughout the many phases of construction, there’s a lot of sawing, sanding, filing and soldering.

“I tend to work in stages to implement my vision and use my own blueprints to guide the way,” she says.

The open road leads everywhere…

View Altelman’s unique designs at: www.antelman.com.

From delicate floral motifs to graceful butterflies, the curated nature-inspired jewellery ranges from emerging Middle Eastern designers such as TOKTAM, Kaltham's Pavilion and La Graine Jewellery encapsulate the beauty of the natural world.

Elevate your ensemble with the enchanting elegance of these exquisite creations, crafted with precision and passion.

ONE-OF-A-KIND

keepsakes

A niche trend known as DNA keepsake jewellery is gaining popularity. It contains personal elements such as cremated ashes, locks of hair, breast milk or umbilical cords

Tessa Hofman, the creative owner and artisan of Mama Milk Fairy, is one of many jewellers specialising in breast milk and DNA jewellery.

What exactly is this jewellery? “That’s a good question,” says Hofman. “Even though breast milk and DNA jewellery has been around for some time, it’s still new to many people. Simply put, it’s jewellery made of one’s breast milk. You give one or two teaspoons of it to an artist, who preserves it so that it doesn’t spoil and then

turns it into a gorgeous gemstone which can be set in a variety of jewellery settings, either gold, silver or stainless steel.

“The same goes for DNA jewellery,” she says, “except that instead of breast milk, you give a piece of the DNA item you want to have included in your jewellery

piece. Possibilities include encapsulated (so already preserved) placentas, dried umbilical cords, a lock of hair or even cremated ashes.”

Hofman’s obsessed with breast milk and with all the good it can do and breastfed both her sons for 15 and 21 months respectively. When her elder son was born, she simply assumed that breast-feeding would

come naturally to mother and baby and be easy to do. “Little did I know that it doesn’t always go as smoothly as you planned during your pregnancy. It’s something both mother and baby have to learn,” she recalls.

“When my second breastfeeding journey was coming to an end, I felt a strong need to have something tangible to commemorate this special chapter in my life. This was the moment I started my new journey: creating unique, precious and highquality pieces of keepsake jewellery.

Those who are unfamiliar with this trend are probably wondering why anyone would want such a keepsake.

“For some, it’s the perfect way to commemorate and preserve a special moment in their life,” explains Hofman. “Think of a wedding, becoming a parent or an anniversary: an occasion they want to preserve and wear with great joy. A piece that you can hold in your hand or wear close to your heart and that brings you back to that special moment every time you look at it or feel it.

For some, it’s the perfect way to commemorate and preserve a special moment in their life. For others, it’s a reminder of something they’re very proud of, like a trophy.

“For others, it’s a reminder of something they’re very proud of, like a trophy. Breast-feeding can be very difficult for mother and baby and start as an intensely bumpy ride. However, once you’ve mastered it and your baby’s accustomed to it, there can be an intense feeling of accomplishment.”

Visit www.mamamilkfairy. com to view some of Hofman’s one-of-a-kind, beautiful jewellery.

Forever has a nice ring to it! Giveaway

Share your love story and stand a chance of winning

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WATCH CHOKERS: YEA OR NAY ?

The choker has been back for some time now. Whether it’s a delicate gold one or a bold, statementmaking piece, chokers have found their place on runways, red carpets and everyday street style and are all about mixing old-school vibes with a modern twist.

Last June, Rihanna appeared during Paris Fashion Week at Pharrell Williams’s début for Louis Vuitton sporting a diamond-pavéd Jacob & Co Brilliant Flying Tourbillon – not on her wrist, but around her neck, while social media personality, YouTuber, podcaster, businesswoman and model Emma Chamberlain also wore a Cartier watch as a choker for the Miu Miu show at Paris Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024.

Taylor Swift’s choice of wearing a watch choker at this year’s Grammy’s aligns her with other fashion icons, such as Rihanna and Emma Chamberlain

her neck as a choker. The piece came from jewellery designer Lorraine Schwartz.

Earlier this year, Taylor Swift walked the Grammys red carpet wearing a watch wrapped around

Elevate your style with a trendy watch choker and add a unique touch to your outfits.

The watch, it seems, is not just for your wrist and you don’t need to be a luxury watch collector to get in on the trend. So elevate your style with a trendy watch choker and add a unique touch to your outfits.

Our verdict: we’re loving it – and loving having people thinking outside the box. It’s a definite “yea” (and “yay!”) from us!

Getty Images

Jacob & Co

JEWELLERY THAT WILL WARM HER HEART

▲ Eclipse earrings from Katy Valentine R750

▲ Kimberley pearl stud earrings from Oh-la-la Silver R298

▲ Blossom 2 bracelet from I am Boho R200

▲ Small cluster gold hoops from Shelley Taylor R490

▼ Shiva earrings from ALTAMARIA R750

◀ Stainless steel 18ct gold-plated solid and curb chain from Galaxy & Co R299

◀ Harlow winter necklace from I am Boho R199

▼ Gold pearl beaded T&O bracelet from Lovisa R250

▲ Amara earrings from Katy Valentine R550

Mother’s Day is around the corner – Sunday, 12 May – so it’s crunch time to find the perfect present for your mom, grandma, mother-in-law or the mother figure in your life. Whether you’re celebrating one mom or several generations of them, we’ve curated a line-up of jewellery for each and every type of mother on your list.

◀ Black and gold multi-row statement necklace from Galaxy & Co R299

▼ Rose gold teardrops from Oh-la-la Silver R520

▲ Zahra necklace from ALTAMARIA R590

▲ Eden drop earrings from I am Boho R299

▲ Rose gold diamanté Greek key ring from Lovisa R180

▲ Gold-plated stainless steel bubble ring from Lovisa R280

▲ Brushed gold disc necklace from Shelley Taylor R590

▲ Vintage gold bumble bee pin brooch R199

UNLEASH YOUR INNER

mermaid

Janine Binneman of Janine Binneman

Jewellery has a treasure chest full of amethysts, ready to share the hidden powers of these entrancing gems with you

Here’s a story that will make your tail flip!

Amethysts have been prized by sailors and fishermen for centuries for their ability to offer peace and protection on long voyages. These beauties are said to bring calm and fair winds, warding off storms and sea monsters – something we all need, right? But that’s not all: amethysts are also said to promote creativity and intuition, bringing about positive changes in one’s life.

So, if you’re seeking a little magic, look no further than these purple gems.

Amethysts are also said to promote creativity and intuition, bringing about positive changes in one’s life.

JEWELS BETWEEN

friends

Jewellery can be a meaningful way to symbolise the bond between friends. Inspired by feminine mythology and made in Cape Town, Pichulik’s African-inspired pieces make ideal gifts for a friend this year

Pichulik is an ethical jewellery and accessory atelier based in Cape Town. Rooted in Africa, but inspired by ancient traditions and cultures around the world, it seeks to impart sacred feminine wisdom through its unique and intentional designs.

One of the loves (the fourth and final) recognised by the Ancient Greeks is “philia”, meaning a love that develops between friends. It’s an irreplaceable and unique connection, based on care, respect, common interests

' Philia' is a love that develops between friends. It’s an irreplaceable and unique connection based on care, respect, common interests and compassion.

and compassion. In scholarly works, philia is considered to be the highest form of love.

Explore and celebrate this special connection with Pichulik’s Amie necklace.

Alternatively, draw strength and power from your inimitable feminine bonds with the Mithra pendant, a symbol of sisterhood and friendship.

WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

TIME TO SHINE

JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

Resin on the rise

Ukrainian brand Solo takes a shine to ordinary resin and introduces its philosophy of “conscious luxury” through a series of rings made of ultra-firm organic bio-resin, 14ct gold and laboratory-grown diamonds. The signature material, although resembling plastic, is crafted from natural resin – a robust, contemporary and “100% organic, biodegradable material” patented by the brand. The centrepiece of each ring is a lab-grown gem, up to 3ct, displaying a range of extremely pure fancy colours and classic cuts. The stones are meticulously crafted by recreating the mining environment in a lab, starting with a carbon seed and subjecting it to the same intense pressure – ranging from 35-50 kilobars – that naturally formed diamonds over billions of years, according to Julia Kusher, CEO of Alkor-D, founder of Solo for diamonds.

Echoes of the past

Designer Tini Courtney hand-carves each wax form and draws profound inspiration from history, capturing the whispers of ancient wisdom and the echoes of bygone eras. Her Belle diamond earrings bear genderless elegance, says the founder of Los Angelesbased Handle Only With Love (HOWL).

“The forms in the drop earrings have a beautiful balance of masculine and feminine, which allows them to harness an elegant energy for whoever they adorn,” says Courtney, whose pieces capture a sense of antiquity. The Amos ring and the Belle earrings set with diamonds are a part of the Future Artifacts collection. The 18ct gold line employs an assortment of cuts such as hexagons, elongated baguettes, diamond shapes, kites and cadillacs.

Fluted details

Set in Lizzie Mandler’s signature style, these 18ct gold and diamond button drop earrings from the Fluted collection counter-balance the curves with the linear silhouette. “I find linear styles to be really flattering, especially drop earrings, which pull the eye down along the jawbone and down the face in an elegant way,” says the designer, whose pieces are handmade in Los Angeles, USA.

Adding the fluting texture to her signature crescent silhouette came about through an almost natural repetition of the theme. Mandler was working on the design of her flagship store at the time and incorporated a large, fluted glass window that separates her office from the storefront. “We then began to incorporate small fluted details in various parts of the store to bring everything together,” she recalls. During this process, she was working on her collection and kept circling back to a vintage costume ring that belonged to her grandmother. The piece had a similar repetitive stripe pattern – and became the key element that tied in her signature aesthetic, the brand, the flagship store and her personal journey.

Modern alchemy at LAM

Trace the artistic journey of award-winning jeweller Adam Neeley at the Laguna Art Museum (LAM) in California, USA. The exhibition, aptly titled Modern Alchemy, showcases the fusion of art, nature and innovation in the works of the designer and highlights the unique techniques and the use of raw and faceted gems and minerals. “This exhibition features displays to excite audiences of all ages and share the magical world of the jewellery arts,” says Neeley, who is noted for his groundbreaking SpectraGold™ technique, a never-before-seen process of seamlessly transitioning one colour of gold into another. The first-ever decorative arts show at LAM will run until 29 July 2024.

About Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicago-based Sadanandan – a seasoned writer and journalist specialising in the luxury industry. She tracks international trends in the jewellerywatches sector and provides an insightful perspective as an analyst. Her words can be found in the South China Morning Post, Financial Times (UK), Prestige (HK), Vogue (Arabia & India), Solitaire (Asia Pacific), Natural Diamond Council, The Adventurine and Solitaire International (GJEPC), among others.

DESIGNER PROFILE:

RUTH AYMER

Jewellery insider and JZA international correspondent Smitha Sadanandan talks to Ruth Aymer who, through her brand Aymer Maria, captures the essence of ancient civilisations and renders them across her two empowering collections, Pilastro and Malian

Ruth Aymer’s designs are the perfect starting point to build a collection of architecturally inspired jewellery.

Her path to jewellery design, she explains, was a blend of passion and formal training. Growing up in London, she was inspired by the cultural significance of adornments. She pursued her interest by studying jewellery design and manufacturing at Holtz Academy, mentored by

Jennifer Boy. “Her guidance was pivotal, emphasising the importance of design alongside craftsmanship. Through her mentorship, I gained the confidence to pursue my creative vision,” says Aymer, whose aesthetic is rooted in AfroCaribbean heritage and architectural influences. “The rich cultural tapestry of West Africa is a constant wellspring of inspiration for my jewellery designs.”

The brand’s name carries profound personal significance. “It pays tribute

to my grandmother, a revered West African textile designer whose creative spirit continues to inspire me,” Aymer says, adding that she strives to honour and celebrate the beauty and significance of her ancestry in every piece she creates.

The decision to launch Aymer Maria was driven by the desire to weave her cultural heritage, creative vision and ethical values together. “The brand’s inception took place at a

pivotal moment when I felt compelled to channel my passion for jewellery design into a meaningful venture.”

Pilastro, the début collection, features 14ct recycled gold and sterling silver pieces – a nod to Greco-Roman classical architectural motifs and principles.

Malian, the subsequent line, centres solely on pieces made in 9ct recycled yellow gold and draws inspiration from “iconic West African architectural marvels, like the Great Mosque of Djenné and the Larabanga Mosque.”

“When it comes to architectural inspiration for my work, I draw from a

The rich cultural tapestry of West Africa is a constant wellspring of inspiration for my jewellery designs.

diverse range of sources, from the grandeur of Greco-Roman classical buildings to the majestic religious structures found in West Africa. With their intricate design elements and historical significance, these structures serve as a rich source of inspiration.”

Among the historical inspirations that influence her are iconic landmarks such as the Parthenon in Athens, the Pantheon in Rome and the Colosseum. “These structures are renowned for their timeless beauty, intricate detailing and enduring legacy, serving as a testament to human ingenuity and craftsmanship,” she says.

It is this love for architecture and history which is visible through the Pilastro collection, where classical Greco-Roman architecture’s timeless elegance and structural integrity inform the shapes and details in the creations. “One jewel from this collection that exemplifies this inspiration is the Corinthian column necklace,” she adds. It is reminiscent of Corinthian columns, with delicate filigree work and motifs echoing the acanthus leaves characteristic of this architectural style.

The Malian collection has Aymer lean on “a variety of surface details and gem cuts” inspired by the geometric patterns reminiscent of the decorative motifs found in West African mud-brick architecture. They serve as the reference point for gold pyramidal forms sprinkled with diamond confetti. “For gem cuts, I’ve opted for baguettes from Botswanamark, an ethical diamond mine in Botswana. The baguette-cut gems are arranged in unique patterns, mirroring the rhythmic repetition found in architectural details,” she says.

Step into the world of opulence and luxury as we explore the realm of bold, statement fine jewellery pieces, perfect for elevating your occasion wear

STATEMENT JEWELLERY GLAMOROUS

Delve into the dazzling allure of Middle Eastern brands, where intricate designs adorned with a myriad of diamonds and precious gemstones take centre stage.

From striking necklaces to statement earrings, each piece exudes sophistication and elegance, adding an enchanting touch to any ensemble. Join us as we celebrate the fusion of tradition and modernity and discover fine jewellery fit for the grandest of occasions.

1. Noora Shawqi

2. La Marquise Jewellery

3. Aariya Diamonds

4. TRYYST 5. Amwaj Jewellery 6. TOi Fine Jewelry 7. Obari

FEATURED

Autumn issue brand supporters

Amanqi Consultancy

www.theamanqiconsultancy.com

manal@theamanqiedit.com

+971 54 410 7187

Impilo Collection

www.impilocollection.co.za

info@impilocollection.co.za

+27 (0)10 021 0441

James Ralph

www.jamesralph.com

info@jamesralph.com

+27 (0)11 314 8888

Jewellery Council of South Africa

www.jewellery.org.za

admin@jewellery.org.za

+27 (0)11 484 5528

WoodDo

www.wooddo.co.za

info@wooddo.co.za

+27 (0) 65 602 5781