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For me, winter means warm blankets, hot cocoa, a good book and time to breathe. As an introvert, I get to stay at home without getting the side-eye from my extrovert friends. I also love winter fashion, the colours, warm knitted sweaters, coats and stylish scarves. However, I know many have a bit of a love-hate relationship with winter. On the one hand, it’s filled with hot drinks and cosy, firelit nights. On the other hand, our bulky clothes don’t really lend themselves to delicate or intricate jewellery items. Yet
A note from the EDITORIN-CHIEF
bundling up doesn’t mean we can’t rock a stunning necklace, ring or pair of earrings this winter.
In this issue, we share our top tips for making sure you can show off your gorgeous jewellery, even on the coldest days.
statements, nature-inspired jewellery, chain reactions and throwback colours.
Whatever you wear, we know you’ll find the winter accessories that feel most like you.
Happy reading – and stay warm!
We also have a look at combinations of pieces to wear, which are endless. Plus, there are no rules. You can play with different textures, weights and materials, from wrist candy to huggie earrings, personal Adri Viviers
Editor's top picks for winter jewellery
The Swoon bangle by Thor features playful artwork in Alexia Vogel’s vivid watercolour combinations.
▲ La Playa hoop earrings by Pichulik exude sensual delights of sun, sea and salt.
Shelley Taylor’s hand-wired round gem necklace.
Seven knockout winter trends
If you’re having a bleak winter filled with freezing days and dark evenings, then you need a bejewelled pick-me-up for the season!
Wrist candy
As far as bracelets are concerned, the time has come to put a pause on your daintiest pieces, as oversized cuffs and bangles are still set to define this season’s wristwear. Impactful in size, finish and colour, these accoutrements pack plenty of attitude. Wear them as solo statement pieces and ensure that they’re always on show – over your sleeve.
Huggie earrings
Recently, the earring game’s been all about layering— and we think that’s here to stay, at least for the foreseeable future. Nothing feels quite as versatile as the huggie earring: whether it’s thick or thin, diamond-set or not.
Chain reaction
Throwback colours
Bold neon colours are becoming more prominent and have remained on trend through the winter. This change in clothing is sparking a similar change in jewellery. People are looking for colours that are bold and bright.
Nature-inspired jewellery
More than ever, jewellery inspired by the earth is at the forefront. From high jewellery collections to
Personal statement
This winter, only the chunkiest of collar-length chains will do. While it’s now super-sized, the once humble chain is still very versatile, so it goes well with virtually every outfit in your wardrobe.
Returning for a consecutive season, this thriving trend is all about utilising your everyday jewellery curation to express yourself, whether it's with a signet ring engraved with an initial, a zodiac-inspired pendant or a locket you can personalise by hiding a Rings that rule Furnish your finger with a ring that’s maximalist in every sense, be it a sculptured band that stretches from knuckle to knuckle or a cocktail set with a singular gem of standout proportions. Jumbo rings are big news this season!
Latelita
James Jewellery
Pearls & Pomegranates
Grace The Brand
Black Betty Design
Magic HOMEGROWN
Meet four of SA’s talented female jewellery designers and makers to learn more about their brands and discover their unique and striking collections
Lali Silver Jewellery
Lali was founded in 1970 by Lali Vossgatter. In 2003, she met Julie, a young silversmith with a passion for handmade jewellery. When Vossgatter retired, she gave Julie the iconic jewellery store.
“I like to create a warm, friendly atmosphere in my shop and to give each customer individual attention. A special feature
of Lali Silver Jewellery is that many of my pieces are created on the premises," says Julie
lali.co.za
lali.co.za
For the women of Thor, life is about tiny, but significant everyday moments. Its jewellery reflects the intricate, delicate layers that give you the freedom to
Thor was founded on a strong mother-anddaughter bond in a family of jewellers for over 30 years, where jewellery design became something of a love language.
The brand strives to manufacture only the best quality locally and works with family-run workshops across the globe. It uses only conflict-free diamonds and natural gemstones.
Cici Collection
Cici Collection is a captivating and contemporary silver jewellery brand. Plated with 18ct rose and yellow gold, as well as black and white rhodium, these extraordinary creations complement the individual taste of every woman.
Conceptualised in South Africa and perfected in Italy, the allure of the collection is powerful.
Unique designs in exquisitely crafted diamond-cut silver transpose effortlessly from day to night.
Natasha Wood Jewellery
Natasha Wood works from her studio in Noordhoek, Cape Town. She studied jewellery design at the Ruth Prowse School of Art in Cape Town and graduated in 2006.
“I love to create unique jewellery, with nature being a great inspiration,” she says. “I use unconventional mediums like ceramic shards from old and cracked antique crockery. I also love working with wood combined with silver.”
Her jewellery is handmade in sterling silver, with each piece given the time and attention it needs.
cicicollection.co.za
GREEN GEMS THE GLORY OF
Want to spice up your look? Then consider adding green gemstones to your wardrobe. These perennially beautiful gemstones evoke new life, so you’ll look radiant –regardless of the season
The colour green – in all its shades of glory – is the perfect complement to the many colours of flowers that dot our landscapes and the natural settings where we build our homes. It grounds us in nature and reminds us of the cycle of life. Green makes us feel safe and rested in a way that few other colours do.
Emerald
Emerald, the May birthstone, is probably the first green gemstone that comes to mind – and with good reason: emeralds were cherished by Egyptian pharaohs, Inca kings, Spanish conquistadors and the Mogul rulers of India. They still cast their spell on gem aficionados and the fashion-conscious.
Jade
Jade has been cherished for thousands of years, but did you know that what we term “jade” today actually covers two different gem materials? Jadeite and nephrite are both metaphoric rocks made up of tiny interlocking mineral crystals (metaphoric rock is rock that’s been subjected to very high heat and pressure). This structure of interlocking crystals makes both varieties of jade exceptionally tough – one of the factors that accounts for their durability.
Peridot
If you love green gemstones, the August birthstone is another beautiful option. Found as nodules in volcanic rock, occasionally as crystals lining veins in
the mountains and sometimes even in meteorites, peridot is sometimes called the “extreme gem”. The presence of iron gives it its colour. Fine-quality peridot ranges from saturated green to slightly yellowish green that’s free from brown tints, often seen in specimens weighing 10ct or more. Smaller stones sometimes show yellow-green to greenish-yellow hues with brown undertones.
Demantoid garnet
You may be surprised to learn that garnets aren’t always red. In fact, they come in a wide range of colours, with demantoid, a variety of andradite garnet, being one of the most stunning green gemstones around. “Demantoid” means “diamond-like” and, with its vivid green colour and spellbinding dispersion (flashes of spectral colours refracted back from the stone), it’s a mesmerising gemstone, ranging in colour from yellowish or brownish green to a very rare, intense green hue that rivals the beauty (and price!) of emerald.
Green diamonds
Natural green diamonds are doubly alluring: they’re breathtakingly beautiful and a little complicated. These exceedingly rare stones get their colour from exposure to radiation. Since the diamond’s exposure to natural radiation can be replicated in a laboratory setting, gemmological detective work is required to determine whether the colour is natural or treated.
Buy with confidence from a trusted Jewellery Council of SA member today
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GLOBAL
INSPIRATIONS
Immerse yourself in a world of jewellery where each creation is a passport to a different corner of the globe
Presented by esteemed brands Noora Shawqi, TOKTAM, Farah Khan Atelier, TRYYST, Youra Jewelry and Aariya Diamonds, these collections are inspired by diverse destinations, infusing global allure into every piece.
Noora Shawqi’s pieces draw from the vivid landscapes of Japan, capturing their essence through intricate designs. TOKTAM’s Mosque collection draws inspiration from the majestic mosques of the Arab region, while Farah Khan Atelier’s pieces capture the essence of diverse global cities. This particular piece is inspired by London.
Each brand offers a unique journey, transforming wearers with ornaments that are not just accessories, but stories of wanderlust and cultural appreciation, making each piece a cherished emblem of worldly adventures.
1. TRYYST, Bombae Deco earrings 2. TOKTAM, Mosque ring 3. Noora Shawqi, Shibuya Ring 4. Farah Khan Atelier, London Nomad earrings 5. YOURA, India Spirit ring 6. Aariya Diamonds, Petra Cuff
Gemstones YOUR GUIDE TO ANNIVERSARY
Celebrating a milestone in any relationship is something really special – and what better way to show your love than through a meaningful gemstone that symbolises the bond between two people?
IIf you’re at a loss for wedding anniversary gift ideas, the world of gemstones offers infinite inspiration and meaning. Use this gemstone list to find the perfect present.
First anniversary: Gold
Many associate a gift of gold jewellery with a 50th wedding anniversary, but gold jewellery marks the first year of marriage too. Known for its purity and strength, gold jewellery celebrates your first anniversary together and how precious your bond is.
Fifth anniversary: Sapphire
A vibrant sapphire jewel, emblematic of longevity, loyalty and health, is the perfect fifth wedding anniversary gift.
10th anniversary: Diamond
A classic emblem of love, a diamond jewel is an ideal anniversary gift to commemorate a decade together.
15th anniversary: Ruby
For your 15th wedding anniversary, give the gift of a fiery Garrard ruby – a symbol of romantic love for centuries.
20th anniversary: Emerald
A regal gem steeped in myth, magic and history, to celebrate 20 years together with love.
40th anniversary: Ruby
A glowing crimson ruby jewel is the time-honoured way to celebrate the wonderful milestone of 40 years of love and marriage.
50th anniversary: Gold
Traditionally given on a golden wedding anniversary, a timeless gold jewel is the perfect way to honour 50 years of marriage.
35th anniversary: Emerald
Your 35th wedding anniversary is another opportunity to commemorate your bond with an emerald, a timehonoured symbol of love and hope.
The world of gemstones offers infinite inspiration and meaning.
30th anniversary: Pearl
The pearl, with meanings of purity, honesty and wisdom, is the traditional 30th wedding anniversary gift.
45th anniversary: Sapphire
Celebrate your 45th wedding anniversary with a blue sapphire. Its deep colour is a reflection of the love you continue to share after all these years.
60th anniversary: Diamond
Renowned for its strength and invincibility, diamond is the most enduring stone on earth. Celebrate your 60th wedding anniversary withits sparkle.
CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY CHAMPIONING LOCAL
Since 2006, Tinsel Gallery has been at the forefront of contemporary jewellery in South Africa, providing a platform for local artists to exhibit and sell their work
Tinsel Gallery focuses mainly on one-of-a-kind work that’s handmade by jewellers and through its many solo and group exhibitions, it aims to grow an audience for contemporary jewellery in this country.
Situated at 53 Rustenburg Road in Melville, Johannesburg, its offering is unique in SA and it’s committed to promoting this kind of work.
Visit Tinsel anytime to see its permanent collection of pieces or keep an eye out for one of its six exhibitions during the year.
Erika-Wessels
Through its many solo and group exhibitions, it aims to grow an audience for contemporary jewellery in this country. tinselgallery.com tinselgallery.com
HOOPS STUDS, DANGLES AND
Even off the red carpet, the men’s earring trend is getting bigger and bigger
Male earrings are now more popular than ever. Labels like Celine and Dior send their male models down the catwalk with earrings and the look is also becoming increasingly common in the street style scene. High-street shops offer various earring designs and it’s clear that this trend is a lot more than just a fad.
STUD EARRINGS
Studs are the safest choice for beginners, as they’re easy to wear and more versatile than other styles. They give the edge of wearing an earring, but with discretion. Stud earrings are typically understated and suitable for both casual and formal occasions. They can also be worn either as a pair or singly.
There are no set rules when choosing an earring design – go with what looks good on you and makes you feel confident.
The most classic, elegant studs are made with diamonds that range in size and clarity. They’re a popular choice for formal events or special occasions and are often worn as a mark of personal style or sophistication.
HOOP EARRINGS
Guys can rock a hoop earring, but it has to be subtle. Look for small, thin ones that don’t hang down past your chin.
Hoop earrings are often made of metal such as gold, silver or stainless steel, but can also be found in a variety of other materials, including plastic, wood or glass. Their size and thickness can vary greatly, ranging from small, delicate hoops to large, statementmaking ones.
Hoop earrings can also feature embellishments such as gemstones or beads and can be textured or engraved for added visual interest. The design of hoop earrings allows for a versatile and timeless look that can be dressed up or down.
DANGLING EARRINGS
To add a touch of glamour to your outfit, dangling earrings are perfect. Available in various styles and materials, they hang loosely from your ears, adding movement and interest to your look. Some dangling earrings come with pendants that are permanently attached, while others have charms that can be mixed and matched for whatever look or vibe you’re after.
Galaxy&Co Truworths
UPCYCLE AND RECYCLE OLD
Rather than relegating pieces you don’t wear anymore to the shadows of a jewellery box or sending them to a landfill, a more inspired and eco-conscious destination beckons – the realm of recycling and upcycling
CREATE NEW JEWELLERY
The obvious place to start with upcycling your old jewellery is to turn it into “new” jewellery. You can modify heirlooms that aren’t to your taste to create modern designs you’re likelier to wear.
If a piece falls short due to its metal composition, consider having it plated in your preferred finish. This simple alteration can convert it into a cherished item you’ll often reach for in your jewellery box.
UPCYCLING JEWELLERY INTO HOME DÉCOR ITEMS
There are limitless ways to upcycle jewellery to create unique items that add
If you have a piece of jewellery that you want repurposed and are wondering what kinds of things can be done with it, the possibilities may surprise you.
sparkle around the home.
Here are a few suggestions of what you can make or decorate around the house using old jewellery:
Ornate fridge magnets
• Bejewelled plant pots
• A sparkling wind chime
Photo frames
• Lampshades
UPCYCLE JEWELLERY INTO SOMETHING ELSE
Create the following unique items to add sparkle to your wardrobe and home:
• Belts
Bookmarks
• Gift tags
• Napkin rings
Recycling doesn’t always mean sending things to a recycling centre to be processed – you can recycle old jewellery in numerous ways.
If you have no plans to wear a piece of fine jewellery again – whether it was initially yours or belonged to your parents or grandparents – gift it! It’s likely that your children would appreciate receiving it as an heirloom.
Elevate your wedding day with exquisite bridal essentials from TOi Fine Jewelry, Amwaj Jewellery, Baguette Design, Beenish Mahmood Fine Jewelry, Kaltham’s Pavilion and La Marquise Jewellery.
These brands offer timeless pieces that every bride needs to complete her look.
Think elegant tennis bracelets that add a touch of sparkle, versatile diamond earrings – ideal for the ceremony and beyond – and customisable rings and pendants that hold sentimental value, making them perfect keepsakes.
Each piece is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring that you shine brightly on your special day. Celebrate love and elegance with these bridal essentials, designed to make every moment unforgettable.
BRIDAL ESSENTIALS
We bring you the best range of bridal accessories to choose from!
1. Beenish Mahmood Sweetheart Pendant 2. La Marquise, Tennis bracelet 3. Kaltham's Pavilion, Hanging Heart Ring 4. Amwaj Earrings 5. TOi Sparkle Ring 6. Baguette Design, Wishing Well bangle
IN CONVERSATION WITH TUESDAY’S CHILD
JANE MERRIFIELD
Tuesday’s Child was created by Jane Merrifield and showcases her beautiful, locally handmade jewellery, as well as her many other artistic and creative interests
What drew you to become a jewellery designer and start your own brand? Jewellery design found me, rather than the other way around. I was introduced to it through a family friend when I was struggling to find a direction in life. I
didn’t know what to study and none of the usual subjects excited me at all. I had no idea there were such things as jewellery designing courses, but as soon as I picked up a saw frame, I was hooked. It was a very exciting way to create and I love working with my
hands. I was always making things for friends on the side, as well as working for someone. My boss was very supportive and always helped me with projects.
I think creating my own brand was a way for me to express my own ideas and passions. I’ve been lucky enough to work for some really amazing people who’ve inspired me throughout the years and have given me the strength and motivation to make something of my own that I can be proud of.
What are some of the materials you use in your jewellery collection? I use a lot of sterling silver, which is a great metal to work with and its price makes it accessible to a wide range of people. I also love unusual or interesting semi-precious or precious stones. Things don’t need to cost the earth to have value and there’s beauty in uniqueness.
Who or what is your biggest inspiration? I’m inspired by other creative people. I enjoy discussing techniques and ideas with them. Since I’m not naturally business-minded, I’ve also learnt a lot working with some great businesswomen over the years. Nature is another huge source of inspiration to me, with its wealth of things to observe and marvel at.
Who would you most like see wearing your jewellery? Everybody! I like the idea that my jewellery appeals to a diverse range of people. I enjoy exploring many different themes and styles, as that allows me to connect with a wider audience. I have some pieces that have been taken overseas by their new owners overseas, which makes me feel as if a small part of me
A MUST-READ
No Stone Unturned: The Hunt for African Gems by Richa Goyal Sikri (Austin Macauley Publishers) takes readers on a thrilling rollercoaster ride with 24 adventure stories based on true events spanning the past 60 years
that make this industry so colourful too often take their stories to the grave,” remarks Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson.
business, as well as historical moments related to notable gem deposits in Africa. Each story brings to life the exhilarating highs and perilous lows of the trade, offering an insightful look into the vibrant journey of coloured gemstones from mine to market.
“The spirit of adventure deeprooted in the coloured gemstone industry is rarely captured and the wonderful characters
“Gemfields commissioned this book in 2020 to capture some of these stories and to honour legendary individuals from the industry and tell their tales of courage, luck, energy, passion and expertise. Richa has diligently captured countless hours of stories and injected her energetic writing style to create a first-of-a-kind work that inspires and intrigues readers as they accompany marvellous personalities on journeys through the world of coloured gemstones.”
Sikri, an accomplished journalist and storyteller specialising in the gemstone and jewellery industry, explains: “This book aims to shine a light on African gem deposits – the leading source of coloured gemstones globally – and the extraordinary individuals connected to each story. It unravels the mineral mysteries of the earth and the secrets of the gem trade, laced with humour and culture. Hopefully, the stories will transport readers to a vibrant world where they’ll learn, laugh, fall in love and, like me, never want to leave,” she says.
UNTAMED BY NATURE
The Rebel Wolf collection from Thomas Sabo is a statement series, embodying a distinct, wild mysticism
The call of the wolf resonates from the great wild!
The striking fur pattern and graphic diamond-shaped patterns in the new Thomas Sabo Rebel Wolf collection are recurring design elements that run through all the jewellery categories
The power of your instincts surges as you live in harmony with the natural world.
The Rebel Wolf collection includes a silver blackened pendant howling wolf with stones, a silver blackened pendant wolf’s face with stones, a wolf’s tooth pendant, a blackened bead bracelet and a blackened single-hoop earring.
The power of your instincts surges as you live in harmony with the natural world.
Thomas Sabo
Thomas Sabo
Thomas Sabo
ROLEX CONFIRMS COMMITMENT TO SA
Despite closing its Sandton affiliate, luxury watch brand Rolex maintains its after-sales service centre and will strengthen its retail presence throughout the country
Rolex Watch Company (South Africa) opened in 1948 in the centre of Johannesburg and relocated to Sandton in 1997.
The affiliate proudly represented the brand, its iconic products and core values for 76 years throughout the African continent.
However, local markets and conjuncture have evolved and no longer
warrant the presence of an official Rolex affiliate. The brand therefore closed its Sandton office in June 2024 but remains strongly committed to the development of the
South African market.
True to its watch servicing tradition and philosophy, Rolex will continue to provide after-sales services in South Africa. As of 1 July 2024, the brand’s partner The Vault took over and
centralised all maintenance and servicing activities for the country’s other Official Rolex Retailers. The Rolex Authorised Service Centre will continue operating at the same address in Johannesburg, and with the same watchmakers known to the customers. Through its expertise and resources, The Vault team will uphold Rolex’s highquality standards for the entire market and will continue the brand’s longterm dedication to watch servicing excellence.
A host of scheduled openings are scheduled for 2025
Rolex will not only remain active in the region through its Official Retailer network, but will also drive
customer in-store experience to new heights with a series of projects that the brand will roll out across the country throughout 2025.
In Johannesburg, Rolex will inaugurate a 200m2 boutique in Sandton City with its partner SHEMER.
Scheduled for opening in Q2 2025, this will be Rolex’s first monobrand store in South Africa and will be located within the Diamond Walk, alongside other international luxury brands. Simultaneously, official retailer and longtime brand partner Charles Greig will completely overhaul its store in Hyde Park to include a new 65m2 Rolex shop-in-shop, which will also open in Q2 2025.
In Cape Town, Rolex will open a boutique at Charles Greig’s address in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront late 2025. Another Official Retailer, Van Deijl Jewellers, signed an agreement with Tyger
Scheduled for opening in Q2 2025, this will be Rolex’s first monobrand store in South Africa and will be located within the Diamond Walk.
Valley Shopping Centre to increase its store footage, which will allow Rolex to develop a new 70m2 shop-in-shop. Rolex will also be spreading its retail footprint to Durban, where its partner The Vault will inaugurate a 60m2 corner in Umhlanga Arch.
BLUE
jewellery
One of the biggest trends this season – and one of our favourites – is blue jewellery
Embrace the enchanting allure of blue jewellery with stunning pieces from renowned brands STONE Fine Jewelry, FHK by Style Gallery, ZOME, La Graine, Khayal Fine Jewelry and Nijma M Fine Jewelry.
Each brand brings a unique interpretation of this timeless hue, from deep sapphires to turquoise and topaz, creating a mesmerising collection that captures the serenity of the sky and the depth of the ocean.
Explore the magic of this shade and discover the beauty and versatility it brings to your style.
1. Khayal, Enchanted Necklace 2. FHK by Style Gallery, Petali ring
3. ZOME Ring 4. La Graine, Blooming earrings 5. Nijma M, Blue Topaz ring 6. STONE Fine Jewelry, Turquoise Necklace
▲ Cara Delevigne's look combined over 500ct of lab-grown diamonds
SPECTACULAR JEWELLERY MOMENTS FROM THE 2024
Hollywood A-listers went all out in showstopping gems for fashion’s biggest night. Here’s our selection of the most breathtaking jewels worn at this year’s event
Held on the first Monday in May, the Met Gala takes place at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City annually.
This year’s event celebrated the Costume Institute’s new exhibition, Sleeping
Beauties: Reawakening
Fashion with “The Garden of Time” as the official dress code. It featured 250 items drawn from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection, many of which have rarely been seen in public before.
The Met Gala, a charity
▲ Emily Ratajkowski in Chopard
▲ Gigi Hadid wearing Chopard jewellery
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event and fundraiser for the museum’s Costume Institute, has traditionally been timed to mark the opening of its annual fashion exhibition. Year after year, the event raises eight-figure sums!
This year’s hosts were Zendaya, Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny and Chris Hemsworth. They follow last year’s star-studded group: Penélope Cruz, Michaela Coel, Roger Federer, Dua Lipa and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The latter has run the Met Gala since 1995, shaping it into the much-loved annual celebration of fashion we know today.
▲ Mike Faist wearing jewels by JAR
▲ Greta Lee wears De Beers rings
▲ Penélope Cruz wearing pieces from Chanel's High Jewellery collection
▲ Lil Nas X wore 50 000 Swarovski crystals, including on his nails
▲ Lewis Hamilton wearing jewels inspired by the story of John Ystumllyn
▲ Jennifer Lopez rocking stunning jewellery from Tiffany & Co
▲ Cardi B looking glamorous in an array of oversized drop earrings
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Time to shine
WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN
JZA’s international and inspiring storybook
that dates back to 23 000 BC, the square geometric forms, explains Oumaima, symbolise "modernity and ancient Berber iconography”.
Francesca Villa has brought out Lover’s Eye, limitededition jewels using eye lenticulars.
Celebrating Berber heritage
Oumaima Benharbit traces her journey through her Berber heritage and Moroccan roots to create pieces for Ashaha. This has culminated in a series of forms in gold that merge traditional Berber craftsmanship (involving brushed gold finishes) with bold, geometric shapes. The pieces are a nod to symbolism and reflect an edgy style punctuated by vibrant primary colours. Oumaima decided to build the brand around this authentic DNA, standing firmly against cultural appropriation.
Her Shiraz choker won the “Best in Below 10ct” award at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, USA this year. She draw on her inspiration from the Amazigh Berber culture
Gemmy shape-shifters
Born and raised in Hong Kong, high jewellery designer Austy Lee has a penchant for infusing neon punchy colours into his psychedelic pieces. His Amoeba series comprises several Toi et Moi-style 18ct gold rings. Shape-shifting amoebas and their unique genes have inspired the concept of Austy’s neon and gemencrusted rings. “I wanted to create a cell structure through strange asymmetry and depict the way a gene creates infinite instability. I added details in fluorescent rainbow colours through hot and cold enamel, and used varied gemstones to represent the nucleus and cell
Crowd pleaser
Dena Kemp’s inspiration for her jewellery stems from glamorous old black and white Hollywood movies. From statement styles in diamond and rubies to pearl-embellished aquamarine pairs, here is an edit of earrings
Prepare for a kiss of stones –Madagascan quartz, black agate, chrysocolla and aventurine – in bracelets and necklaces from Lito Karakostanoglou. La Bouche, the newest line made in 14ct
yellow gold with carved stones, offers a splash of whimsy alongside the Greek designer’s Art Deco take on the popular lip motif. “I wanted to design another talismanic jewel where the eye’s the dominant motif and drew inspiration from our Paris 1925 collection looking at the tassels,” says Karakostanoglou.
The first lips she designed for La Bouche were the “Lipstick on Your Collar” necklace, a combination of Art Deco and surrealism. A nod to her obsession with detail and playful aesthetic, each piece sports a tiny brilliant-cut ruby or diamond birthmark.
Charms and lockets
Marie Lichtenberg brings a chic modernity to personalised small and jumbo charms and lockets. Spelling out letters in gold and diamond, she elevates them into modern heirlooms. Her popular locket has now been reimagined in an opulent checkered avatar.
MARIA KOTSONI
The designer talks about her jewellery and how seeing the Vergina treasures at the Archaeological Museum in Greece had a profound effect on her.
Kotsoni made it her goal to learn how to make beautiful objects like the valuables – from the Macedonian royal tombs – to which she had been drawn at the museum.
London’s Central Saint Martins proved to be fertile ground for her inquisitive mind. A Bachelor’s degree in arts, specialising in 3-D design in jewellery, sparked a love for sculpting. She developed her own method with her tool of choice: a surgical scalpel.
Frequent visits to the British Museum led her to
explore precious metal as her medium. After her graduation, Kotsoni moved to Athens and worked as a designer for leading Greek jewellery houses. The hand-sculpted jewels, realised in 18ct yellow gold, saw her showcasing her pieces at exhibitions in Europe and New York. She subsequently launched her eponymous line in 2017.
She showcased her core collections consisting of the three-pointed star, spiked and new iterations at the recent Couture Show in Las Vegas, USA. The line explores organic forms that she created by hand sculpting the pieces
The necklaces, ear climbers, bangles, rings and drop earrings play with spikes in distinctive proportions and silhouettes. The newest addition, a spiked tennis
necklace with graduating brilliant-cut diamonds, has just the right amount of edge.
Kotsoni sees the spike as protective, rather than aggressive. “It sends out the message: ‘Respect me and let me be!’” says the Cyprus- based jewellery designer.
A JOURNEY THROUGH INDIA
Nataliya Mehta’s collections are a heartfelt reflection of her journey through India, capturing the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal and the vibrant energy of its cities.
“The Taj Mahal and my Indian heritage inspired my Taj collection,” says Nataliya Mehta, founder of La Muse.
The Taj Mahal earrings incorporate architectural elements such as the intricate inlay work and symmetrical design. The teardrop shape and bezel-set pink tourmalines mirror the delicate details and the hues of the dawn and twilight that reflect on the marble walls. The use of mother-of-pearl highlights the splendour of the iconic monument.
The Jaal pink sapphire cuffs, part of Mehta’s “Passage to India” collection, are inspired by the vibrant and colourful cities of the country. The collection celebrates
the rich tapestry of Indian culture and the dynamic energy of its bustling markets and historical landmarks. The cuffs feature the lattice pattern, reminiscent of the intricate jaali (window) screens found throughout northern India. The vibrant pink sapphires in the cuffs bring a touch of contemporary flair to the traditional motif.
All pieces in these collections are handcrafted in Jaipur, a city renowned for its skilled artisans and rich jewellerymaking heritage.
This collection celebrates the rich tapestry of Indian culture and the dynamic energy of its bustling markets and historical landmarks.
