AUTUMN 2022
Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)
AUTUMN ALLURE
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Contact Jenny Justus (Director: Brand Strategy) on 083 450 6052 or e-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za
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THE PAVILION • LA LUCIA MALL • GATEWAY • BALLITO JUNCTION www.watchesunlimited.co.za
Phone us on 011 314 8888, 0861 CASIO1 or 0861 318 888 for your nearest dealer www.jamesralph.com SPECIFICATIONS AND PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
Bloemfontein: 051 400 5500 Port Elizabeth: 041 394 2900 Kloppers Sport Brackenfell: 021 982 Knysna: 044 302 7800 George: 044 802 3900
Clearwater • The Glen • Cresta • Northgate Mall of Africa • Rustenburg • OR Tambo • Fourways
New World Menlyn 012 368 1633 Cassims & Co 011 682 1517, Mall of The South
Okusha Monica Rich Kosann
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CONTENTS 5 6
Cover story All that jazz Our seasonal storyboard of #jzaontrend favourites
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Pearls for curls A hot hair trend
14
Win! A girl’s best friend…
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Trail-blazers Female-led jewellery brands
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Mother’s Day magic Colour it gold, silver, ruby and more for Mom
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The comeback kid Chokers are back – bigger and better
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Groovy, baby The '60s “youthquake” shakes up jewellery
iedman
Ode to autumn Jewellery you’ll really fall for Jack Fr
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Queen of hearts Still beating strongly as the dwelling place of romantic love Viva vintage What’s old is gold – and its time is now Watch this space From avant-garde to superhero-inspired and more, we select our favourite timepieces this season
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Vanleles
EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief & Publishing Director Jason Aarons jason@isikhova.co.za Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Creative Director Joanne Brook joanne@isikhova.co.za Contributing Editor Adri Viviers Wordsmith – Africa Khwezi Makeba Europe & USA Correspondent Gill Hyslop Pictures Editor Amahle Jali Copy Editor Anne Phillips
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Made in ZA Meet Okhusha, a female-owned jewellery and accessory brand Green with envy Wear it, love it, “diamond green” it
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Very Peri Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2022 blings it on
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Who’s the “Bosch”? Meet ZA porcelain jewellery designer Nina Bosch
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Retail therapy A homegrown selection to enchant, inspire and, of course, buy. It’s soo-o-o therapeutic! The call to Kenya One-of-a-kind pieces by women for women Orange ya glad! Our top of the tocks Oh, what a night! The Oscars 2022 – fame and fabulousness
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Men adorned Signet rings: a classic silhouette gets a 21stcentury makeover
BUSINESS Managing Director Imraan Mahomed imraan@isikhova.co.za Director: Brand Strategy Jenny Justus jenny@isikhova.co.za Operations Director Thuli Majola thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Manager Ruwayda Mahomed ruwayda@isikhova.co.za
Q&A Meet creative and emotive jewellery storyteller Julien Riad Sahyoun
GLOBAL MEDIA ALLIANCE PARTNERS Asia Pacific Region Solitaire Magazine Anton Javier, Deputy Editor Gynn Lee, Business Manager www.solitairemagazine.com
Beguiled and bedazzled by Bridgerton Regency glam returns in all its bejewelled splendour
United Kingdom CoNNect Agency, UK www.theagencyconnect.com Jewellery Council of South Africa Lorna Lloyd, CEO Membership enquiries: admin@jewellery.org.za Tel: +27 11 484 5528 / Fax: 086 504 95212 The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg. Bavina Vassan Tel: +27 72 247 1122 JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine is independently published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd and is part of the SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio
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Breda
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G r uos
hv
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wa z
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10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg 2193, South Africa Telephone +27 11 883 4627
54 64 65
Going global Your passport to an international and inspiring storybook Featured Issue 6 brand supporters Pièce de résistance This issue’s “Made in ZA” showpiece
www.isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & General Enquiries jza@isikhova.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the publisher, contributors or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, the owners, the Editor-in-Chief, the publisher; media alliance partners nor any of its endorsed organisations or contributors can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine © 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.
savvy thinkers smart doers together people
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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A note from the
EDITORIN-CHIEF
According to the Encyclopaedia of Superstitions, there’s a popular belief that “as many falling leaves as can be caught in the hand in autumn, so many happy months will follow”. So it’s with great pleasure that I invite you to turn this issue’s “leaves” – albeit in 21st-century modus operandi – and catch your own bounty of JZA happiness. Our storybook of seasonal enchantment not only captures true autumn jewellery in magnificent burnished oranges, subtle magenta shades, reds, purples and browns, but also in unexpected palettes and lust-have designs you’ll really fall for. Homegrown hues shine through and we continue to applaud South African – and, indeed, African – jewellery talent and creations. Read on and colour your world. As for me, I’m off to find a bold burgundy!
Let the sun shine in! Huge congratulations to our Tsogo Sun/JZA competition winner Benedict Winkler, who had a fantastic time at the Sabi River Sun Resort.
WORDSMITHS
Jason Aarons
Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicagobased Smitha – a freelance journalist specialising in the luxury industry. She tracks international trends in the jewellery sector and provides an insightful perspective as analyst and contributor to TRENDVISION (Jewellery + Forecasting). She writes for print and digital platforms internationally, including Solitaire and The Adventurine.
Adri Viviers Adri is the Editor of JZA’s sister magazine, SA Jewellery News (SAJN), official publication of the Jewellery Council of SA. She is highly respected among the jewellery fraternity and, during her 10+-year editorship, has represented SAJN at prestigious international shows in Hong Kong, Italy and India. She is also Editor of African Odyssey and Jewellery Biz-News.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Gill Hyslop Gill has been in the publishing industry for more than 30 years, having worked on numerous B2B and consumer titles, including as Editor of SA Jewellery News from 2005-2009. She is also a consummate foodie and has worked as a chef and on charter yachts in the Mediterranean. Her global resumé includes her present editorship of BakeryandSnacks.
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COVER STORY
BE YOU
“D
iscover something unique” echoes through Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery in every
way, from conceptualisation to the most exquisite, bespoke and unique creations.
“No love between two people is the
Here at JZA we’re thrilled to feature
same, just as no two
a custom-designed piece by Piccolo – manufactured in 18k white gold set with various cuts of emeralds and diamonds – on our cover. The piece was designed by Piccolo’s own personal designer and PlatAfrica 2021 award-winner, Johann Claassens. Together with Suvette Claassens, he established Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery in 2008 to create a business built on passion and dedicated to creating the unforgettable. “We design and manufacture to suit our clients’ personal requirements and budget, while guiding them through all the various steps of selection and decisionmaking,” says Claassens. “Our service is focused on clients as the centre-piece.”
people are the same. So why settle for mass-produced, offthe-shelf store items of dubious quality, when your unique relationship is best encapsulated by a custom-designed jewellery piece?” asks Claassen. Whether your personal style and penchant are for clean, simple and streamlined lines, elegant, symmetrical, geometrical, modern or sculptural, Piccolo’s sparkling pieces are the epitome of outstanding craftsmanship. “I love the idea of someone being surprised with an engagement ring, a wedding ring, or a ‘just because you deserve it’ jewellery gift,” enthuses Claassens. “Let your jewellery be your
Piccolo works hand in hand through all
pride, a promise of forever and as unique
stages of product creation, starting with
as the love you share with your loved one.”
a rough concept outline, then proceeding through to detail design and finally the manufacturing of your unique jewellery piece. A careful selection of suppliers ensures the best possible pricing and quality of metals, diamonds and gemstones.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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1.
10.
2.
ALL THAT
JAZZ
9.
3.
#jzaontrend is about jewellery fabulousness. It’s about
8.
excitement, originality, boldness, innovation, uniqueness, style, sassiness and much more. Each issue,
4.
we’ll bring you a seasonal storyboard of our favourite #jzaontrend selections from our own incredible
7.
homegrown talent to global inspirations and brands.
5. 6.
1. Gluttonous earrings. Joani Groenewald. 2. Atlantis cuff bracelet. Stella Flame Jewelry 3. Earrings. Yulya Art 4. Paunchi bracelet. Manjrie Fine Jewelry 5. Diamond earrings. Isabella Jewellers 6. 18k Gold harvest moonlight earrings with two diamonds. Chandally 7. Amonite pendant. Karlien Designs. 8. Fairy mobile earrings. High Horse 9. The ancient art of Meenkari imbued upon 22k gold and embellished with Polki diamonds. Manjrie Fine Jewelry 10. Jelly opal ring. Victoria Orpen Jewellers
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Express your uniqueness Mirror what you desire with this exquisite black classic cluster with 0.30cts round brilliant black center diamonds alongside small stones to
TO BE SOLD
compliment each other for an extra sparkle.
BOUNDLESS LOVE COLLECTION
www.isabelladesignjewellers.co.za
8 ▼ Enchanted Garden ring in 18ct rose gold and titanium with diamonds and rubies. Vanleles
T
◀ Moraine Lake necklace with polished citrine and white freshwater pearls. Naughton Braun
▶ Porcelain bead and fire opal bracelet. Silvia Furmanovich
here’s something quite magical as we meander gently into autumn. The light becomes
less intense and has a gentle softness to it. Dusk and dawn seem to be more comforting and reassuring. The landscape changes, bringing with it the rich and glorious colours of the season: golden yellows, burnished oranges, subtle burgundy shades, a spectrum of reds and purples, beautiful browns…
▶ Light ray chandelier earrings with a light ray crown ring. De Beers “The Alchemist of Light” ▼ Philippe Guilhem Vaya No 1 ring in bronze and gold, set with an oval-shaped ruby.
a treasure trove of gemstone and jewellery inspiration. Remember that warmer colours, along with layering jewellery over clothing, always work well in autumn. Look for longer necklaces to wear over higher
May Gañán.
▶ Green petal brooch. Naomi Sarina.
ODE TO AUT Jewellery you’ll really fall for this season!
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
TUMN
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WORDS BY JASON AARONS
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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▼ Citrine and topaz earrings. Auverture.com
▼ Diamond citrine leaf-shaker necklace. Jacquie Aiche
necklines. You can also focus on rings, earrings
▲ Mexican fire opals. Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. Pinterest
and bracelets instead of necklaces. Think about mixing and matching stacking rings to add lots of sparkle and colour to your fingers in cooler weather. You’ll also find that hoop and dangling earrings can be great friends during the colder months, when you can keep the rest of yourself covered up while making your earrings the stars of the show. So join us as we celebrate the season by echoing this brilliant palette of colour-changing leaves and sensational kaleidoscopes of sunsets with our favourite autumn pieces and gemstones.
Autumnal hues to get you glowing! Amber – yellow, orange, brown and red.
Garnet – the brightest one is spessartine,
Citrine – these colours range from yellow
which is typically yellowish-orange to
to orangey-yellow, yellowish-orange and
reddish-orange.
brownish-orange.
Sunstone – tones of yellow, orange, brown
Fire agate is a variety of chalcedony: think
and copper.
swirling flames of orange iridescence and
Tourmaline – this stone comes in a dizzying
flashing streaks of brown, yellow and green.
array of hues, from greens, reds, browns
Fire opals – these are found in a range of
and blues to pinks, purples, yellows and
warm hues, such as red, orange and yellow.
browns, including multi-colour zones.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
TO BE SOLD
▼ Vintage pearl velvet headband. Takealot
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P
WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS
earl hairclips and accessories are one of the biggest things to happen
to hair and we love the fact that they’re still super-stylish in 2022. On days when a somewhat plain outfit needs an uplift, or a statement look needs a finishing touch, nothing does the trick quite like pearls. So if you want to shake up your style with a new look this autumn, pearl hair accessories are the perfect way to do so without investing in an entire wardrobe overhaul. Whether it’s a wedding, a date night or a work event, you can
PEARLS
FOR CURLS
rock pearl hair accessories pretty
It’s been a hot hair trend for months – and it’s still going strong
much anywhere. Timeless and classic, pearls add elegance to almost any outfit – as a multi-tasking accessory, they reign supreme! Here are eight of our favourites: Oversized pearly clips: These clips feature an oversized design, pearl-inspired detailing and snap closures.
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Padded, pearl-studded headbands: These notso-little faux coronets are the perfect finishing touch for your ensemble. Dainty pearl slides: Made with white pearls, these are extremely feminine and perfect for any occasion. Arrange them individually or cluster them in a group to create a focal hair detail. Pearls speckled through a bun: Amp up a messy low bun by placing tiny pearls all over your hair. This little detail will give your ’do instant glamour cred! A single show-stopper: Even the simplest style assumes regal elegance when you slide in a bold pearl barrette. Pearl hair scrunchie:
Their long-lasting appeal lies in their versatility
Perfect for no-fuss working hours when all you want to do is keep your hair out of your face. ▶ Jennifer Behr pearl headband, MyTheresa
Pearl claw clip: Put your hair up with this pearl claw clip, pull out a few strands of hair in front of your face and you’ve got a vibe no-one can deny. Floral pearl clips: At first glance, these might look like any other pearl hairclips, but upon closer inspection, you’ll notice the beautiful floral details. If you don’t want to wear the basic set in your hair, these beauties are a great alternative. There really are no rules when it comes to wearing pearl hair accessories – experiment and have fun!
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
WE’RE GOING TO ROCK YOUR WORLD WITH A BIG
COMING NEXT WEEK . . . a dazzling diamond will be up for grabs! Like and follow our social media pages for the big announcement!
M an
jrie
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C
handally A fine jewellery label marrying heritage, design
techniques and cultural vibrancy. Its modern-day designs and craft
Women are making their mark worldwide
are rooted in the present, as well
Stone Fine Jewelry
as the designer’s history. Nectar Nectar New York Tok t a
m
Designed in the USA and handcrafted by skilled female artisans, Nectar Nectar New York creates bold jewellery
TRAIL-BLAZING FEMALE-LED designs, unparalleled quality and
Founded by Toktam Shekarriz,
immaculate detailing.
each of its artistic collections is inspired by various sources,
Stone Fine Jewelry
including nature, literature and
Founded by Ghadeer Taher
architecture.
and Joumana Jallad, Stone Fine Jewelry aims to reimagine
Obari
classic pieces in a contemporary
The brainchild of Danah Alfayez, Obari creates
way. Its creations amalgamate
striking and distinct designs. Scintillating
sophistication and versatility.
gemstones and geometric structures are fused together to create pieces which are simultaneously
Toktam Dubai-based Toktam is known for
bold and delicate.
Nectat Nectar New Yowk
Ob
ar i
Manjrie This brand is a marriage between Indian craftsmanship and Western influences. Working with women with artisanal skills, Manjrie Gupta’s designs embody elegance and modernity. Visit: www.theamanqiconsultancy.com
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
and
its creative and inimitable designs.
Ch
which stands out for its unique
ally
JEWELLERY BRANDS
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1. Personalised, engraved children’s art drawing/doodle necklace. R936,71. GetNameNecklace.
1.
2. Handmade "Shrieking Violet" silver stud earrings. R295,00. Silk by Design 3. Butterfly ladies' wooden watch. R899.00 Woodish
2.
4. Bubble rings. R199,00. Cotton On
3.
5. Original fingerprint bracelet – Sweeti. R2 800,00. smallprint 6. Flower and bee fine bracelet. R2 690,00. La Maison Les Néréides 7. Colette by Colette Hayman Geo large clutch III. R780,00. Foschini 8. Notebook set – Knowing. R499,00. Carrol Boyes Functional Art 9. Kuankuanbao stainless steel necklace. R219,00. Frugo 10. Nomination new composable links collections. Various prices. Nomination
MOTHER’S DAY
MAGIC 9.
11. Autumn Pearl Yankee candle – large. R440,00. Yankee Candles 12. Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Emeralds eau de toilette spray 100ml. Around R270,00. Various retailers
8.
13. Kankanwo I Love You Mom heart necklace. R139,00. Frugo 14. Yardley Gorgeous in Gold eau de parfum 30ml. Around R230,00. Various retailers 15. MAC Ruby Woo lipsticks. Different sizes. Various retailers 16. Fantasy eyeliner. R245,00. Body Shop South Africa
13.
17. Ballpoint pen. Green, gold toneplated. R1 150,00. Swarovski 18. Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier. Price dependent on retailer/ format. Various
12. 14.
19. Mom Alisa charm. R419,00. The Silver Goose 20. Custom name bar pendant necklace gold/stainless steel. R188,31. Sold by Perimade
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Colour it gold, silver ruby and more!
6.
7.
4. 5.
11.
10. 18. 16.
20.
19.
17. All prices sourced at time of publication. JZA cannot be held liable in any way whatsoever for price differences and/or any additional costs involved with
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delivery or shipping, where applicable.
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◀ African choker. From Ocean
THE COMEBACK KID Chokers are no longer just a ’90s trend – they’re back and better than ever
▲ Babylon choker. Julien Riad Sahyoun ◀ The arrow necklace from the Bravery by Louis Vuitton Collection. Jewellery Insights by Katerina Perez
neck jewellery, creating beautiful, multi-layered compositions. They can be made of a variety of
N
materials, including velvet, satin, owadays, the choker is a “neck-hugging” piece of jewellery with voluminous parts. There are
more big chokers than modest ones. Then again, it’s all about creating and being comfortable with your own distinctive style. They can also be worn along with other
plastic, beads, latex, leather and metal and adorned in a variety of ways, including with sequins, studs or a pendant. “Chokers can be rock ’n roll, delicate, romantic, feminine, outlandish and demure, all at once,” says Katerina Perez, founder and Editor-in-Chief of Katerinaperez.com. “If you do embrace a choker this season, avoid pairing it with the equally attention-
▲ Sea star textile choker. African Baroque
grabbing trend of statement earrings. Worn alone, these bold elements are chic and striking – but worn together, they can descend into gaudy, no matter how remarkable the gemstones may be!” she adds.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
WE GRADE THE WORLD’S MOST PRECIOUS DIAMONDS, INCLUDING YOURS. Feel confident you’re choosing the best with a diamond graded by the experts at GIA. learn more
GIA.edu/diamondexperts
©2022 GIA. GIA®, the GIA logo and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America®, Inc.
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GROOVY, The ’60s were an era of revolution, peace, free love, psychedelics, Woodstock and brazenly show-all fashions. Welcome back to them!
I
t was a time of mod
colour was off limits – after all, the slogan of the
fashions, bell-bottom jeans,
decade was: “Anything goes”!
Mary Quant, Twiggy, mini-
We wore flowers in our hair, made love, not war
skirts, go-go boots, bee-hive hairstyles, long sideburns, tie-dye and batik fabrics, paisley designs, the Beatles, the quintessential hippie movement and being
and peace signs were everywhere. It was a “youthquake” and its seismic wave changed jewellery trends dramatically. Glamour reigned supreme with
turned on. Psychedelic
glitzy, gold designs and feminine
prints, neon colours,
pearls. Bold accessories were
geometric and
influenced by pop art and
mismatched patterns were ubiquitous. No
featured striking designs, ES
TI LÉ
, Fa r f e t c h
geometric shapes and bright, often jarring colours. Key pieces included large earrings, big rings and bangles. Large, chunky bangles or stacks of thin bracelets jingled up and down bare arms. Plastic resins reigned. They were cheerful pastel or primary-coloured clusters dangling from necklaces, earrings and bracelets, while op (optical) art featured a
“Youthquake” was a 1960s cultural movement. The term was coined by Vogue magazine’s Editor-in-Chief Diana Vreeland in 1965. It involved music
monochromatic
and pop culture and changed
palette to create
the landscape of the fashion
striking designs.
industry. The movement looked to youth for inspiration
◀ Lauren Hutton 1968. Photographer: Gianni Penati
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
in all things.
Monica Rich Kosann
BABY
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King of Hearts Clothing
Sia Taylor
Ashford
◀ Elsie Frieda’s chubby acrylic hoop earrings with African beads.
The ’60s’ seismic wave changed jewellery trends dramatically.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
NeverNot
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QUEEN OF
HEARTS ▶ Bewitched Rose gold heart earrings. Scarab Jewellery Design Studio
WORDS BY GILL HYSLOP
N
othing says “I love you” like jewellery.
Bring in a heart and the message is amplified. Although typically associated with Valentine’s Day, the heart isn’t just for 14 February. It’s personal, though: some love a heart for its timelessness and direct symbolism, while others find it tacky. Nevertheless, it’s been a powerful symbol throughout history and will
B r o o ke
Gre
gs
on
remain one for as long as humans inhabit the earth. Today, its clean,
Missoma
symmetrical and uncomplicated lines will resonate with any
Still beating strong as the dwelling place of romantic love JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
die-hard romantic! Ethereal ensembles and free-form fashion allude to simpler and
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W
ins
ton
Es
Van Cleef & Arels
hv
i
Nomination
Ha
rr y
happier times, while a tendency towards nature heralds a more conscientious, sustainable and values-driven existence. The heart sits happily within the theme of nature, which embodies the trend. Zimbabwean-born artist and jewellery designer Janine Davidson of Cape Town-based Scarab Jewellery has been delving into the heart shape for 30 years. “For me, the cross and the heart have been around forever and it’s silly to reinvent the wheel,” she says. Janine notes that while design is an “interpretation of what’s around you”, hearts will never lose their lustre and “the shape will remain
And remember, Cupid’s arrow doesn't just strike annually. We have it from reliable sources that love has no bounds. Long live matters of the heart!
Perhaps it’s time to delve into all things heart again.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Chopard
a mainstay in jewellery design”.
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◀ Pearl and gold hoop earrings. YDE
▶ Hermès peach enamel goldplated Caleche bangle bracelet. Open for Vintage
VIVA VINT
▶ Tom Wood – ice pavé huggie hoops. Farfetch
WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS
What’s old is gold – and there’s no time like the present to enjoy it
T
he authenticity of
Hoop earrings
items of a bygone
Hoop earrings are
era is second to
interestingly perennial,
none. For vintage-lovers
maintaining a distinctly cool
and collectors, jewellery
aura throughout the years,
pieces from the past come
regardless of shape or size.
with a flair that new designs
When purchased vintage
often simply don’t possess.
– especially from the ’70s –
And vintage is absolutely on the table when it comes to jewellery trends this year.
these jewellery pieces offer modern appeal with a spark of classic character. Vintage hoop earrings are currently
What’s your favourite vintage
a statement of confidence
piece at the moment?
and boldness.
These are the ones we’re most excited about:
▲ A spectacular 18k white and yellow gold geometric ball chain-link bracelet, with a yellow gold clasp set with two cabochon cut blue sapphires. Tyrone Sarkis Antiques & Fine Jewellery
▶ Pragnell vintage 1980s 18k yellow gold fancy link bracelet. Farfetch
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▶ Vintage fluted coral and diamond hoop earrings. 1stDibs
Rich yellow golds ▶ Amethyst and pearl necklace. Kay’s Antique Dealers
Statement yellow gold pieces, in particular, have been re-emerging in recent times and it seems they’re
as we absolutely adore the
likely to stick around. Thick
warmth of yellow gold!
necklaces and bracelets in yellow gold are definitely back in style. They’re a great way to take modern, minimalist ensembles from day to night. At JZA we
TAGE couldn’t be more pleased,
▼ Gold-plated on silver cameo bracelet. Paisley’s Antique Jewellery
Men’s inspired pieces Men’s jewellery is no longer the exclusive domain of males. Rings – and signet rings, in particular – are highly popular, whether with engravings or plain surfaces, gemstones or enamel. Other vintageinspired pieces include tie-pins being repurposed as brooches and overall designs influenced by
No other accessories have the ability to provide that punch of pure individuality.
more typically “masculine” aesthetics like bulky metals, snake themes and buckle rings. Even cufflinks have become more widespread, with women’s formal shirts sometimes including ▲ Dark brown animal-print hoop earrings with gold rim. Everthingncb.com
design features for the wearer to include them.
• Part 2 of Viva vintage will appear in JZA’s winter 2022 issue.
▲ Gold-plated long 1970s disco hoop earrings. Amazon ◀ Vintage 18k yellow gold black enamel and round brilliant cut diamond cufflinks. DSF Antique Jewellery New York.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
WE BUY & SELL ANTIQUE JEWELLERY & VINTAGE CURIOSITIES Since 1988 www.bancroftantiques.co.za Mobile +27 82 823 1492 • Email bancroftjhb@gmail.com Stall 103, Bryanston Marklet 9am-3pm (Thursdays and Saturdays)
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▶ AIKON #tide Prepare to be dazzled! The AIKON #tide is made to be noticed. And, best of all, it’s helping to make the oceans a little cleaner, thanks to revolutionary technology that converts discarded plastic waste into Swiss quality watches. Maurice Lacroix
▶ Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Swatch and Omega come together for an innovative take on the legendary Speedmaster Moonwatch. Outer space inspires a new collection of 11 BIOCERAMIC watches named after planetary bodies that will have you reaching for the stars. Omega/Swatch
▲ The "Ehsaas" Braille Watch by Nikhil Kapoor
WATCH
Designed for those with visual impairment. Equipped with an electronic active polymer on the face that will shift throughout the day to communicate the time to the wearer. A specially positioned part on the bottom of the watch lets wearers know which way it's supposed to be worn on the wrist. Ehsaas
THIS SPACE
▶ "The Batman" “The Batman" Collector Set composed of “The Batman” Tourbillon watch and an illuminated Bat-Signal functional art piece. It features dark styling, ultraprecise movement, and the Bat-Signal representation so famously used to summon the super-hero. Kross Studio, Warner Bros Consumer Products and DC Comics. Images: Kross Studio
◀ Chopard LUC XP Urushi Year of the Tiger An ultra-thin limited-edition dress watch decorated with the painstaking Japanese process of urushi lacquer. All 88 dials in the edition were made by Minori Koizumi, a master lacquer artist, and feature a tiger motif said to symbolise fortune, wisdom, intelligence and creativity. Chopard
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
N°113
N°113
ASIA PACIFIC EDITION
EXCITING DESIGNS AND TRENDS | NEW TECHNOLOGIES NAMES TO KNOW | VINTAGE REVIVAL
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STYLISH SUSTAINABILITY WORDS BY JASON AARONS
MADE IN ZA Driving the change of desirable fashion from Eurocentric to proudly, boldly and uniquely African
O
kusha is a proudly African, femaleowned jewellery and accessory collective based in Cape Town.
Its wearable art pieces are handcrafted using socially responsible practices and sustainable, environmentally conscious materials. Modern styles combined with traditional skills embrace the African aesthetic and celebrate vibrant African glamour. JZA spoke to Amy Kropman, cofounder of the brand. How did Okusha come into existence? It was born over a dining room table when my co-founder Joani Groenewald and I happened to be chatting about a set of bangles I was wearing. Very quickly, a casual chat turned into designing a range of
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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jewellery and a partnership was started. Joani and I saw a need to change the narrative of what luxury and beauty mean. We both felt that the colours, heritage and vibrancy of the African people could be showcased through our pieces and suddenly Okusha Jewellery Trading was registered. How did you and Joani meet? During lockdown, I left Cape Town and moved out to the winelands. Joani lives on the same farm as I do and our children and families have built strong friendships over this period. What does the Okusha “voice” want to achieve for women’s empowerment? Our message to women is: “You can do anything. Believe. Be bold.” We want to uplift women through
and absolute elation that
our production and start
we have a platform on
a conversation about
which to build a brand
inclusive beauty.
that’s good for both Jewellery is a powerful
people and the planet.
tool for emotional
What does “Proudly
expression. What three
African” mean to you? It
emotional expressions do
means that we’re part of
you feel your jewellery
the African community and
expresses? Pride in our
that coming together and
people and heritage, hope
standing as one will always
for the future of women
be a pathway to progress
through empowerment
and kindness in the world.
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33
How do you see the brand evolving, both in Africa and globally? We’d love to see Okusha showcased globally, as it spreads the African story and we feel that our pieces are wearable art. Our story is one of growth and starting again and I believe the world needs that approach these days. The beauty, elegance, fun and quirkiness that Okusha’s designs bring to our shores – and beyond – are a delight. Wear them and love them.
Wearable art pieces are handcrafted using socially responsible practices.
◀ Founders and mothers Joani Groenewald and Amy Kropman
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
mira Gla
34
▶ 1.01 vivid yellowish green diamond. From Optimum Diamonds LLC’s rare natural fancy colour green diamonds "Gamma" collection. Optimum Diamonds LLC
D
id you know that green diamonds are among the rarest ones on the planet,
getting their colour from millions of years of exposure to natural radiation beneath the surface of the earth? They represent growth, health, strength, hope and generosity and are symbolic of the
o Ge
natural world, harmony and long life.
GREEN
WITH ENVY WORDS BY KHWEZI MAKEBA
Jewellery
log
o y.c
m
Point
Despite natural green diamonds being extremely rare, you can still be equally as enthralled, excited and enchanted by fancy coloured diamonds – as will your wallet! When deciding to purchase a (fancy) green diamond (or any other precious gem, for that matter), ensure that it’s been sourced for you by a trusted brand with undeniable expertise. Moreover, insist on a diamond grading report from a reputable gemmological laboratory which identifies the origin of colour. Whether it’s an engagement ring, a necklace, a brooch, earrings, a pendant or your own personalised statement piece, the most important rules to remember when purchasing diamond jewellery are: eyes, brain, heart. Do the diamonds excite your eyes? Do they mesmerise your brain?
▲ These Caribbean earrings, inspired by the tropical locale, each have at their centre a fancy vivid blue-green diamond weighing more than 4ct. Photos © Optimum Diamonds
Is your heart captivated by them? Choose for beauty!
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Whatever your colour Choose beautiful.
Diamond, precious and semi-precious gemstone and jewellery certification and grading.
+27 11 334 4527 / services@egl.co.za / www.egl.co.za
We’ve got you covered
Subscribe for FREE! Email your name and contact number to jza@isikhova.o.za
37
2 1
VERY PERI,
VERY BEAUTIFUL
P
3
4
antone 17-3938 Very Peri (“Very Beautiful”) – described as “a dynamic periwinkle
blue hue with a vivifying violet red undertone” – is Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2022. And it brings with it a gorgeous colour board of beautiful and cheerful designs. Very Peri can easily be paired with an array of warm or cool colours such
5
as lilac, deep purple and lavender, as well as muted reds and greens
6
for a show-stopping effect. For a fun and casual look, play around with different textures and finishes, including accessories dipped in gold, silver, pearl and faux fur. The colour blends wonderfully with a wide
7
variety of shades, particularly bold emeralds and diamonds, which add a pop to any outfit. Be inspired!
1. Linjer’s Isle of Paradise collection. Pinterest 2. Epure Tourbillon Ama. Boucheron 3. 18ct tanzanite wave Study II earrings. Renna 4. Purple Mozambique garnet pavé pendant. Stephen Silver 5. Aurora Nights bracelet. Ruchi Jewelry 6. Carol Kauffmann 7. Rose Dior Pré Catelan ring. Dior
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Introducing Introducing Introducing JewelStart JewelStart JewelStart
Approach risk with purpose. Approach risk with purpose. Approach risk with purpose.
Dear Members Dear Members Dear Members We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets We are to share Bryte’s and Precious Assets divisionpleased has launched anthat exciting newJewellery insurance product which provides division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides We are pleased to share that Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which is an alternative for businesses on a new trajectory. JewelStart, which division has launched an exciting new insurance product which provides endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, offers entry-level,is by the Jewellery Council of South Africa,JewelStart, offers entry-level, anendorsed alternative forfor businesses on aand new trajectory. which is bespoke cover entrepreneurs small businesses. bespoke by cover entrepreneurs small businesses. endorsed thefor Jewellery Counciland of South Africa, offers entry-level, bespoke cover for to entrepreneurs smallsustainable businesses. “JewelStart aims provide moreand tailored, solutions for “JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions for and jewellery businesses that are navigating changing market conditions jewellery businesses that navigating changing market “JewelStart aims to provide more tailored, sustainable solutions challenges that have beenare exacerbated by the pandemic. Itconditions is idealfor forand new challenges that have been exacerbated by the pandemic. It is ideal for jewellery thatindustry are navigating changing conditions and entrantsbusinesses to the jewellery or businesses thatmarket have had to adapt new entrants to the jewellery industry or businesses that have had to adapt their strategy operate inexacerbated less conventional ways. For example, those challenges thattohave been by the pandemic. It is ideal for new their strategy to operate in less conventional ways. For example, those servicing from home and/or undertaking entrants tocustomers the jewellery industry or businesses that deliveries have had themselves to adapt servicing customers from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves or via courierto services,” Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: their strategy operateexplained in less conventional ways. For example, those or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellerycustomers and Precious Assets. servicing from home and/or undertaking deliveries themselves Jewellery and Precious Assets. or via courier services,” explained Natasha Maroun, Bryte’s National Head: Jewellery and Precious Assets. Bryte is excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, Bryte to launch ‘Jewelstart’ cover, whichisisexcited endorsed by the Jewellery Council, which endorsed by the jeweller Jewellery Council, for theisis‘work from home’ and orcover, the Bryte excited to launch ‘Jewelstart’ for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the new start-up jewellery business. which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council, new start-up jewellery business. for the ‘work from home’ jeweller and or the Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or new start-up jewellery business. Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist. Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or we can assist. robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist. brytesa.com brytesa.com Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Policy terms andCompany conditionsLimited apply. is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Bryte Insurance Policy terms and conditions apply.
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Bryte Insurance Company Limited is a licensed insurer and an authorised FSP (17703) Policy terms and conditions apply.
39 ◀ Dangling hammered earrings. ▶ Petal necklace.
WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS
WHO’S THE
▲ Pink folded earrings.
“BOSCH?”
▼ Half-moon Nguni necklace.
Meet ZA porcelain jewellery designer Nina Bosch
B
orn and raised
nature, she creates timeless,
in a family of
statement, wearable art
What attracts you to
ceramic artists,
jewellery pieces.
working with porcelain?
Nina Bosch of Nina Bosch Porcelain creates fine porcelain jewellery. Drawing inspiration from geometric and organic shapes found in
How did you begin designing jewellery? My
imperfections.
late grandmother made
Your design process?
porcelain jewellery. I was
My creations are made
inspired by her creations
from porcelain and further
and started playing around
incorporate a variety of
with porcelain. That was
different materials such as
when I realised I’d found my
glazes, pigments, 18ct gold
passion. At first it was just a
lustre and sterling silver.
hobby, but it turned into a
Every piece is handmade
full-time career.
with care and special
What inspires you? My surroundings, people, ▲ Large half-moon earrings. ninabosch.co.za
Its gentleness and natural
nature – actually, everything around me.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
attention is given to detail, while embracing natural imperfections of the material. Visuals: ninabosch.co.za
40
▲ MR CUFF BRAND Mosaic cufflinks. www.takelot.com ◀ DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Gorgeous and versatile "Double Act" earrings. Can be worn either as a simple stud or with leaves added for a more glamorous look. www.deonsmithjewellery.com
▲ OBTUSE JEWELLERY Sterling silver Art Decoinspired earrings. www.obtusejewellery.com
▲ PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Uniquely crafted, custom-made and timeless designs. www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za
RETAIL THERAPY ▼ PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Scarlett. Brilliant round cut ruby surrounded by a halo of diamonds, set in white gold. www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za
▲ OLIVE CORAL Porcelain and Czech glass bead earrings. www.olivecoral.co.za
▲ AYALA BAR Granada Collection hip necklace. www.ayalabar.co.za
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▼ FLIKFLAK A sporty, bicolour kids’ watch with a cool metallic effect. An educational gift to learn to tell the time in style! www.tregergroup.co.za
▲ SUPERBALIST South African brand hoop earrings. www.superbalist.co.za
▲ THE MAKERY COLLECTION Japanese Miyuki glass beaded wrap bracelet on elastic. www.themakerycollection.com
▲ SOUL DESIGN COLLECTIONS Handmade necklace with 100% brass charm with lava bead dangles and with wooden beads. www.souldesign.co.za
Presenting JZA’s autumn look-book of fun, fabulousness, inspirations and ideas to adorn. From glorious gold to sublime silver, there’s a kaleidoscope of colours and magical materials. Your retail therapy session is now officially OPEN, so let’s go shopping!
◀ DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Nature-inspired, standout earring elegance. Subtly oxidised acacia leaves and a round, brilliant cut, tube-set 6mm citrine or peridot. www.deonsmithjewellery.com
▶ NOMAD JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES Contemporary handmade jewellery comprising bold statement pieces www.nomadjewellery andaccessories.com
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Jiamini Kenya
42
Jia
mi
ni
Ke
ny a
One-of-a-kind pieces by women for women
K
enyan-based accessory brand Jiamini (meaning “believe in yourself” in Kiswahili), known for its durable, hand-beaded embroidery, turns traditional
pieces into contemporary jewellery. The brand promotes sustainable development solutions, while being influenced by African techniques and craftsmanship. Among its missions is helping local communities rise above poverty through economic empowerment. “The diversity of African culture and creativity has always been the foundation of our brand, closely examining the craftsmanship, heritage and traditional approach used by our forefathers, which have been a strong influence in our designs. Our African heritage has enabled us to communicate an authentic expression of the past, present and future, through design,” Jiamini tells Mario Abad of Papermag.
THE CALL
TO KENYA JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Jiamini Kenya
43
Jiamini Kenya
Through its innovative designs and use of renewable resources, Jiamini combines timeless J iamini K
e ny a
traditional techniques, craftsmanship and heritage with a touch of modernity, manipulated in the construction of its delicate, beaded embroidery and weave. Each one-of-akind piece is developed around the idea of comfort, complementing the
Each piece is developed around the idea of comfort.
body’s feminine form and grace and is a reminder and encouragement to women of who they are: bold, brilliant, confident, courageous, strong, sensual, liberated and more.
Jia
mi
ni
Ke
ny a
Jiamini Kenya
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◀ Big Bang Unico Golf, the world’s first mechanical golf watch. Hublot ▼ AIKON #tide. Maurice Lacroix
▲ The TW1012. TW Steel
▼ The Divido Blood Orange edition. Minase and 10tenLabs®
▶ Big Bold Planets. Swatch
ORANGE
YA GLA F
▶ Play recycled plastic satch. Breda
rank Sinatra once said: “Orange is the happiest of colours.” It was his
favourite shade – and boy, the iconic crooner was on the mark!
From rough and tough to très élégant and sleek, this colour shines ◀ Club Campus Collection. NOMOS Glashütte
The colour orange relates to an enthusiasm for life, adventure, inspiring physical confidence, competition and independence. The psychology of orange is optimistic, uplifting and, without being too aggressive, a great attention-getter. In fact, we should all find ways of adding it our everyday lives. Enter the watch! We’re all smiles here at JZA and are excited to bring you our “top of the tocks”!
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AD! Orange is a great attentiongetter. ▶ G-Shock Carbon Core Guard orange watch. Casio
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◀ Zendaya’s standout multiple Bvlgari Serpenti pieces worn with several Bvlgari high jewellery rings. Jeff Kravitz: Getty Images
◀ Hunter Schafer’s De Beers jewellery suite included a stunning diamond and yellow diamond choker, a coloured diamond ring and a Light Rays diamond earcuff. hunter-schafer.com
OH, ▶ Rachel Zegler wore a striking Tiffany & Co chain choker paired with a delicate bracelet, earrings in platinum with diamonds and a diamond ring by the same jeweller. Angela Weiss: Getty Images
▲ Ariana DeBose wearing a delicate necklace by De Beers made up of diamonds set in platinum, with matching earrings, bracelet and rings. Image: Gilbert Flores for Variety ◀ Jada Pinkett-Smith dazzled in a pair of earrings in titanium and diamonds from G by Glenn Spiro.
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▲ Nicole Kidman in Harry Winston's yellow diamond eagle necklace, crafted from 33,42ct and set in 18ct yellow gold and platinum. Her matching earrings, bracelets and diamond ring are all Harry Winston. Jeff Kravitz: Getty Images
▲ Best Actress winner Jessica Chastain wearing a stunning Gucci high jewellery lionhead necklace in 18ct white gold, opal, tanzanites and diamonds. The Gucci high jewellery solitaire ring is in 18ct white gold, green garnet and diamonds. Patrick T Fallon: Getty Images
◀ Lupita Nyong’o in a dazzling display of De Beers coloured diamond jewellery. Image courtesy of Lupita Nyong’o ▶ Timothée Chalamet sported a variety of jewellery pieces in 18ct white gold and diamonds by Cartier, including a Panthère pendant and matching rings. Jeff Kravitz/Filmmagic
The glitz, the glam, the fashion, excitement, Timothée Chalamet’s bare chest and the (totally) unexpected at the 94th Academy Awards packed a mean punch! Its magnificent jewellery display was no exception. Our firm favourites were these JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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MEN
A classic silhouette gets 21st-century makeovers
ADORNED F
rom bold, shout-out-loud
▼ Map of Africa signet ring. Jack Friedman
◀ Skull logo signet ring. Alexander McQueen (Image: Farfetch)
statement pieces and real-deal vintage iterations to something
more subtle and sophisticated, the signet ring has undergone a wonderful metamorphosis. ▶ 9k yellow gold gents' rectangular flat top signet with initial engraving. Famke
For traditionalists, classic combinations – often in black and gold – with clean, simple design lines make a great choice. For those with a sense of adventure wanting something striking with a touch of fun, there are kingly medleys of golds, sapphires and rings in abstract and architectural styles. Whether smooth, textured, made from unconventional metals like pewter, maximalist or monogram-ready, this classic piece of jewellery makes a distinctive statement, whatever the occasion. ◀ Lignum ring. Zaephyr Men’s Luxury Jewelry
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Castro Smith
▼ Barocco V ring. Versace
49
W
hen JZA met awardwinning fine jewellery designer Julien Riad
Sahyoun, his signature fedora hat reminded us of Indiana Jones. We forgot to ask him whether he shared Dr Jones’s fear of snakes, but what we did discover was that they both have a deep passion for and knowledge of ancient civilisations and gemmology. Sahyoun is described as “a creative and emotive storyteller” and an artist of hidden depths. Whether communicating his passion to foster unity among people or reviving lost languages through secret Babylonian scripts, his jewels have meaning and call for a second look. And, for that matter, a third, fourth and fifth one! We’ll be bringing you our own “second look” at Sahyoun’s collections in our
THE
A Moroccan-born artist-jeweller makes wearable magic
ALCHEMIST
Spring 2022 issue.
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Photo by Tadeusz Lakota on Unsplash
NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT Buy with confidence from a trusted Jewellery Council of SA member today
Look in store for this sticker
Proud accredited member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa
www.jewellery.org.za
jewellerycouncilofsa
@thejewellerycouncilofsa
admin@jewellery.org.za
Marvva Jewelry
51
▲ Icarus fuchsia enamel and rose gold two-In-one ring. Lilor Jewels
DIGITAL SHOWROOM LAUNCHED BY AMANQI
T
he Amanqi Consultancy is a Dubai-based boutique consulting agency dedicated to supporting
emerging brands and businesses. It’s now launched the fourth edition of its Digital Showroom. The showroom’s inception was
▲ 18k gold ring. La Marquise Jewellery
The Digital Showroom showcases an exceptional curation of 14 brands.
prompted by the global pandemic, as the consultancy’s attempt to give designers an opportunity to present their latest work, despite Covid-19 restrictions. The showroom works as a medium through which up-andcoming fashion and jewellery talent can virtually exhibit to buyers and the press. The Digital Showroom, which is live
until 18 March, is showcasing an exceptional curation of 14 brands, of which seven are jewellery brands. The participating labels hail from across the globe, such as Puerto Rican Lilor Jewels, Tunisian-French Amira Karaouli Fine Jewelry and Emirati Toktam. ▶ Drop earrings. Nectar Nectar
Visit: www.theamanqiconsultancy.com
JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
52 ◀ Gold and diamond bow necklace. Sydney Evan
▲ Belles Rives necklace. Fred
J
Bridgerton returns in all its bejewelled splendour
ZA was simply beguiled and bedazzled by the jewellery of Bridgerton.
And we’re delighted to have caught up with Lady Whistledown, well-known gossip writer of Lady Whistledown’s Society Papers as season two of this magnificent Netflix regency romance series returns to our screens. “Dearest gentle reader, did you miss me?” “As the members of our esteemed town lazily sojourned in their rustic retreats, this author was doing but one thing – honing my skills. Or should I say, hatching my plans? No, even better, I was sharpening my knives. For all of you.” ▼ 14k gold-plated and pearl crystal Flora Magnifica stud earrings. Oscar de la Renta
THE TOWN’S ABUZZ
DEAR RE JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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◀ Pink and white diamond earrings. Thelma West ▼ Graduated pearl crown headband. Lele Sadoughi
Lady Whistledown says she “has been reliably informed that Lord Anthony Bridgerton intends to dominate the social season” and that she will have her pen “ready to report on any and all of his
fragrant for everyone. Your
romantic activities”.
move, your majesty.”
“There is nothing quite like
So who’ll be “this season’s
the sweet-scented smell of
diamond”, we wonder? We’re
success. But after taking in
not giving anything away,
the scene from last night’s
but if the jewellery featured is
festivities, it is clear the
anything to go by, then we’re
season won’t be quite so
in for quite a show!
◀ Munnu The Gem Palace earrings. Broken English
Z WITH THE NEWS,
EADER
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JZA’s international and inspiring storybook
GLOBAL
CONNECT
WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN
She would take young Akaila to the museums, the theatre and the ballet. “My favourite show, of course, was The Nutcracker and I couldn’t get enough of the sugar plum fairy. We’d both put on our best dresses and go to see the show every Christmas Eve – it’s one of my favourite childhood memories. I can’t remember a time when my grandmother wasn’t taking me to museums. I was definitely one of the only kids I knew growing up who had a favourite artist. At the time it was Claude Monet,” she recalls. Being a dancer was, back in the day, Johnson’s entire identity growing up. “I was the kid who always had the strongest opinions on her costumes and wanted to make
Akaila Reid
sure the most rhinestones possible were applied to them
Akaila Johnson grew up mixed
– I’ve always loved to sparkle and
race (“black and white kid”) in
stand out. I’ve always been a creative
a pretty conservative town –
person and had an affinity for the arts.
and dancing competitively. She always knew that she'd leave Temecula,
It’s what drives me and fills my soul.”
in California one day and move on to
She never set out to be a jewellery
“bigger and better things”. Her love
designer. However, after studying
of art and design was fostered by her
gemmology and jewellery design at GIA, it
maternal grandmother, Kathleen Cox.
“just felt right”. Her undergraduate degree
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is in fashion merchandising, so she always knew she would work in a creative field. “But I wasn’t always sure in which capacity. Being surrounded by such creative people at GIA and with the support of my teachers, friends and family, I finally saw myself as a designer and so Akaila Reid was born,” says the New York-based jeweller. She learnt a lot during her time there and decided to put her skills to use. In 2020, she created a few pieces for select clients. “Those were some of my favourite pieces to make because I felt so grateful that someone would take a chance on me.” The very first piece she crafted was a pendant for her mother. It featured a beautiful bi-coloured tourmaline at the centre surrounded by a bevy of different coloured stones and hung from a chain that featured marquise-shaped diamonds. Another piece she finished was a gorgeous cocktail ring with a steely gray spinel and the centre surrounded by custom-cut diamonds and black opal inlay. Her idea is to craft jewellery that celebrates coloured stones. “When studying gemmology, I became obsessed with coloured stones and the different gems that exist in our world. I wanted to introduce people to some of the lesser-known stones that I find so beautiful,” she adds.
Although she started designing and thinking about launching her brand, Akaila Reid, right as the pandemic began, she quickly realised it was “not the best time to start a business”. So she put things on the back burner for a while. Her brand was officially launched in October last year with her début line, Planet Pink.’ The 18-piece collection featured blush pink opals and ethereal Ethiopian opals referencing the outer world – planets. She followed it up with her second offering, Double Trouble, in mid-February this year. This time, she showered her love on bi-coloured tourmalines set in 18k gold. “The inspiration was really the stones themselves,” she says. The collection sees tourmalines in a simple bezel or gypsy setting across the stack necklaces, stack rings and gypset rings. Her Gloria bangles – from the Double Trouble line – sees geometric details on the inside; now a signature element for Akaila Reid. Her jewellery is made in New York City, where she works with a small group of talented artisans to bring everything to life. She focuses a goodly amount of time creating custom pieces, many of which are gifts for holidays or special occasions.
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Fawaz Gruosi High jewellery designer Fawaz Gruosi has come up with a new way to wear ribbons. His version, as you’d expect of him, comes encrusted with diamonds. The Ribbon collection is made in white or rose gold ripple and swirl, while deftly capturing the grace of silk and satin ribbons. The sumptuous rings are available in varied styles and weave in “unexpected textures”. The pieces are either sprinkled with a few diamonds or wholly embellished with round brilliant diamonds and coloured gems like rubies and emeralds. Earrings from the Ribbon collection, in rose or white gold, accented in diamonds make for a great pairing.
Chris Ploof Chris Ploof founded his eponymous brand in 2004, in Massachusetts, USA. He pushes the envelope with his works using mokumegane – a Japanese metal working technique involving mixed metals. It thus leads to distinctive and layered patterns. The big draw for this particular metalsmithing craft,
feature a few new colour combinations and
notes Ploof, was the beauty of mokume-
a few new rings with coloured gemstones.”
gane and the challenge. “It's difficult to do
The biggest new items are the patterns
well and hard to master. But I love a good
the jeweller is featuring in his laminate
challenge,” he says.
stainless steel pieces. “We've been having
He leans on mokume-gane to offer a unique take on alternative bridal rings and men’s rings.
a great time making them,” he says. He's been working more with tourmaline, while sapphires hold him spell-bound. “Lately, we've also been using a lot of lab-grown
“We're always trying new colours of
diamonds; we've also been using synthetic
materials and we certainly enjoy new designs
ruby ball bearings as gemstones for some
using mokume-gane. The latest designs
of our ring designs,” he adds.
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Muzo This season’s red-carpet moments saw celebrities Thandie Newton, Stephanie Beatriz and Emmy Raver Lampman accessorising
their looks with high jewellery from Muzo. Beatriz wore the Royal Orb earrings from Muzo’s Heritage Collection, as well as an array of other
new film, All the Old
Muzo emerald gems from
Knives. Lampman sparkled
the Nova Collection to the
in the Royal Orb floral
Critics Choice Awards 2022,
stud earrings from Muzo’s
while Newton wore the
Heritage Collection to the
same earrings, as well as a
Fifth Annual Hollywood
Muzo emerald ring for the
Critics' Association Film
Los Angeles première of her
Awards in Los Angeles.
The Paper Boat Collection is aptly named because it's designed to bring back childhood memories. “We make paper boats using thick art paper in varied colours and race down the hill, along with the river, to see whose boat reached the bottom first against all odds of rain, wind, rock and sand,” says Nishith Shah, CEO. “The paper boat design in our collection has a refined silhouette, which is amplified using pops of
Paper Boat
colour. It's brought to life using a ceramic
Take inspiration from La Marquise Fine Jewellery’s new Paper Boat Collection and go sailing. The Paper Boat line includes pendants, chokers, long necklaces,
compound that results in intense colour saturation; the ceramic-enamel is highly durable and comparatively harder than regular enamel,” he explains.
earrings, rings, bracelets and bangles
The Paper Boat jewels draw on Shah's
crafted in 18k yellow and rose gold and
Indian roots and Meenakari, an ancient
accented in ceramic-enamel and white
tradition of enamelling. “The precise
diamonds. The collection is available in
attention to detail is carried across these
jade green, carnation pink, Capri blue and
pieces. The steadiness of the hand and
raspberry red featuring small, medium and
the minute detailing are a homage to the
large motifs, making them easy to layer.
great artists across the world,” he says.
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Gregore Morin Jewellery-making for Morin was, initially,
toys – these being toys for grown-ups,
a part-time stint that he indulged in with
although rather expensive ones. I feel
a neighbour who had a small store and
my work is whimsical and these are the
made custom jewellery. Back then he
ultimate in whimsy,” he adds.
was only 14. He quite liked what he got to do and was hungry for more. “I was lucky enough to always have good jewellers around me and I was open to learning what they had to teach,” he
The award-winning jeweller strives to keep his work fun to look at “while surrendering to nature’s forms and lines, allowing them to express themselves through me and my work”. Coral and
says. The Santa Barbara-based
rubellite often transform into
designer-maker is noted for his objets d’art, in particular his version of bejewelled Kokeshi dolls.
very tiny cherry blossoms on the kimono – the Kokeshi Punk Geisha, for instance, sports a
His interest in the Kokeshi dolls
pretty hairdo with hand-engraved
stemmed from what he describes
details on her platinum obi and
as “a fortunate encounter”
carved red coral florals on her
with a book on the art of
kimono. Another adorable doll has
Japanese Kokeshi. “From the
a diamond hairclip and a kimono
moment I opened the book, my
wrap with diamond edging. Morin
imagination was transported to a
often makes his Kokeshi miniatures in
world of gem-encrusted versions of
gold and platinum, while employing
the national wood sculptures. I can't really
carved opal, turquoise, black jade and
quite pin down what it is that captivates
basanite for the body and hair. He
me so much about these little sculptures,
embellishes the kimonos with diamonds
but a guess would be a lifetime of being
and coloured gems such as rubellite, coral,
inspired by other cultures and their ideas
spessartite garnet and pink sapphire to
as well as a deep-rooted fascination with
make them fashionable.
Theo Fennell Fennell is a jewellery wizard who loves secrets. This new skull and heart opening ring, hand-crafted by his team of skilled craftsmen in London, is quite a beauty. Hand-carved skulls and leaves on the ring’s shoulders hold a richly coloured rubellite which is encircled by diamonds. The secret ring opens to reveal an enamel heart with a customised scroll.
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VAK “With this line, I pay homage
Vishal Kothari of VAK creates
to the hoops,” he adds.
artisanal collectable jewels. His latest line is a series of hoops entitled Unchained. “With a contemporary nod to jewellery history, the Unchained Collection features my signature reverseset gemstones with some maverick metallurgy – an ode to adornment practices of ancient Roman, Greek, Egyptian and Asian civilisations,” he explains. The hoop earrings – a mainstay among Indian tribal cultures – serve as a strong reminder of power and wealth, not merely adornment.
The Unchained series is playful and colourful – made in yellow, pink, white and gold, the pieces are accented with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and multi-coloured diamonds. “They're light and effortlessly chic. It's really fashionforward and, while still classic, delivers oodles of millennial appeal,” says the designer, whose new hoops also retail on luxury e-platforms like Moda Operandi and Threads Styling.
The Rock Hound Susi Smither, founder and Creative Director of The Rock Hound, took home the bronze at The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards in London recently. The award-winning pieces from her collection, Feeling Druzy, have been made in 18k fairtrade gold.
crystal terminations are
In the soon-to-be-launched line, Smither recreates natural druzy quartz in solid metal, while adding colour to the edge using nanoceramic – a signature design element. “Fragile, yet strong, druzy quartz crystals grow deep underground, where optimal conditions occur. These minute trigonal
a resonating reminder to
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perfectly formed and expertly extracted, so we're able to experience these wonders of the natural world in their purest form. Crystals grew way before human life began on earth, representing the fragility of our planet and serving as protect the delicate balance which brings harmony to our natural world,” explains the goldsmith. By using artisanal-mined Peruvian gold, the druzy pieces enabled her to contribute to nine of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.
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KatKim Katherine Kim of KatKim combines
so inspiring and the lore around these
emeralds and recycled gold for offbeat
precious stones make them extra-special,”
silhouettes in her newest pieces. Stunning
says Kim.
Brazilian emeralds are set in 18k recycled gold made by local artisans in Los Angeles. “Emerald is the birthstone of my oldest daughter and I wanted to make a piece for her which sparked into creating a whole collection out of them. They're truly one-of-a-kind and a piece of nature and history in one. Their rich, vivid colours are
The designer sought to embrace the beauty of Brazilian emeralds in different ways by incorporating them into her signature silhouettes “where they take centre-stage”. Her luxurious heirloom pieces are inspired by her love of gold – and she's combined them in a modern way to fashion fine jewellery that's both elegant and unexpected.
Heting Fine artistic pieces populate Heting’s
aesthetic. “The mushrooms are, for sure,
flora- and fauna-inspired universe. The
among my top favourites,” she says.
designer makes adorable bugs, berries and flowers that beg to be worn. “I don't have a set formula when I design; nor do I follow jewellery trends. I suppose that’s part of who I am – perhaps it stems from the privilege of being an independent brand,” says Heting Carina Wong, founder and Artistic Director. “I really just listen to my heart.” Although Wong didn't set out to make enamel and mushroom a recognisable design code, she feels quite happy that it has indeed transformed into a strong design
Why mushrooms? “These earthly magicians recycle waste into food, supplying the trees and the land with the vital nutrients they need to grow. Their endearing and humble appearance masks the selflessness and strength they possess, unpretentiously supporting the wider ecosystem,” explains Wong. “I think it began with my love of eating mushrooms since a young age. I love their unique, earthy smell.” This fascination eventually prompted her to turn her favourite fungi into inedible, but glossy enamel versions – brooch, ring, double finger ring, bangle, necklace and earrings in 18k gold – adorned with topaz, garnet, amethyst, sapphire, diamond and tsavorite.
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Anita Ko Netflix's popular regency-era drama, Bridgerton, sparked with jewellery, extravagant balls, fashionable gowns, splendour and much more in Season 1. With Season 2 premièring soon, there’s a lot of excitement in the air, especially among jewellery enthusiasts. So, when we heard designer Anita Ko’s new collection was inspired by one of the lead characters (Daphne Bridgerton) in the period drama, we were hooked.
the pieces from Ko’s “modern version” reflect her love of pear-shaped diamonds. She's designed a “beautiful and timeless
Ko fell in love with a necklace Daphne wore
collection around Daphne, if she lived in
in the first season of Bridgerton and that
2022”. Ko combines round and pear-cut
sparked the idea for the new collection.
diamonds into lovely wearables – necklace,
Aptly named The Daphne Collection,
pendant and double piercing earrings.
Cristina Santos Guatemalan-Nicaraguan jeweller Santos collects natural gems from around the world. She loves vibrant, unique coloured stones. “I believe there's so much beauty in each of them that they must be at the centre of my designs,” she says. Her 25-piece capsule collection – launched in February – called Cohesive Love includes earrings, pendants and rings. “I like to work in sets, whether they sell together or not. The idea is to enable people to buy them together or mix and match with all my other pieces,” explains Santos, who's been in the business since 2010. “The new collection is inspired in the traditional shape of love – the heart. I believe in love as a way of life and that love is everywhere around us. I'm also in awe of what Mother Earth provides us with – exotic birds and animals, vibrant flowers, rare gems, minerals and precious metals. That said, nature remains my constant source of inspiration,” she adds. Made in Guatemala City, Santos’s creations are realised in 14k gold, usually in yellow, in order to maintain a natural, earthy hue.
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ParkFord Parkford’s new rainbow
streamlined, modern style. It’s also about
additions to the Revival
balancing casual everyday with luxury and
series was inspired by
fine,” adds the jeweller.
the turn-of-the-century era architecture. “The geometrical patterns, strong lines and unique ornamentation really called to me and I wanted to reflect that in my collection,” says Jeanette Park, founder of the Chicago-based jewellery brand.
Park loves the bursts of colour and using coloured gemstones has always been a passion of hers. “Revival has a refined look, but I also wanted it to reflect happiness and fun – a joie de vivre – because jewellery shouldn't only look beautiful, but also make you smile.” The designer is currently working on new colourways
The uplifting and vibrant pieces from the
and bringing new gemstones into the
Revival Collection are all about bringing
mix for spring. “There are more bright and
the old into the new. “I love creating a
fun combinations that we can’t wait to
balance of opposites and in this case, it’s
share. We may also have some Revival arm
the vintage motif in contrast with the
candy in the near future,” she adds.
Ox Sibling duo and designers Jessica and
“The bracelet quickly becomes like a
Michael Busiashvili recently launched their
second skin, with the diamonds emitting
fine jewellery brand OX. The New York
flashes of brilliance as it cascades over the
City-based brand has brought out a four-
wrist,” adds Jessica.
dimensional Ourglass bracelet set with diamonds. “We developed the Ourglass design over the course of five years; it's the first four-dimensional diamond bracelet of its kind,” says Jessica.
Only 55 bracelets will be made – and each piece will be authenticated and serialised with NFT blockchain technology and sold in a custom sterling
The design-patented bracelet, available
silver jewellery box. As
in 18k yellow or white gold, is embellished
grandchildren of a Ukrainian
with 134 round brilliant diamonds handset
Holocaust survivor, the designers are
in a unique stacking double "O" setting
mindful of how jewellery could make a
with a seamless clasp, by a team of five
small difference in the world. The brand
master craftsmen. The diamonds are
will therefore donate a portion of proceeds
sourced directly from De Beers, are mined
from the sale of the first Ourglass bracelet
in Africa and are guaranteed conflict-free.
to the Ukrainian Red Cross.
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Yoki If you’ve wondered what kind of creatures inhabit the underwater world, look no further. Explore Yokabid Worku’s Ocean Princess Collection. Seeking inspiration from deep within the ocean, the new additions are inspired by colours, textures, shapes and patterns of underwater
Worku seeks to emphasise nature’s
life. “In the Ocean Princess Collection,
precision and clarity by combining the high
intense coloured gemstones depict the
reflectivity of yellow and white gold with
different aspects of life beneath the sea
blackened gold to create bold contrasts.
and its unique natural combinations of
“I’d describe my designs as conversation
colours and patterns. I've used pink and
pieces, each with its own inspiration, which
blue sapphires, rubies and tsavorites to
become part of the larger dialogue of the
create the vibrant collection, which relies
collections,” explains the Virginia-based
on shapes, and textures to highlight the
jeweller, who loves mixing up inspirations
fantastical and magical interpretation into
so that they're unexpected and more
jewellery,” says the designer.
implied in her finished designs.
Darius At the heart of Darius
artist and designer, she
Khonsary’s jewellery lies a
has a unique approach
personal legacy: her own
to jewellery for her
matrilineal ancient Persian
eponymous brand – Darius.
ancestry. Using this, she
Envisaged as a totemic
builds a bridge to the
vessel, her work is evocative
archaeological past with
of “objects of power and
symbols and materials.
protection” that serve as a
“Each unique piece is crafted entirely by hand
focal point for a dialogue with the universe.
in Los Angeles from the
Her latest one-of-a-kind
finest traditional materials,
pieces include double ruby
including 18k yellow gold
ring and hoops, Dendera
and precious gemstones,
diamond studs, a diamond
made with the highest
crab pendant, a ring and
form of respect for the
mini Dendera scorpion
wisdom of the ancient
studs. “The collection is
world,” explains Khonsary.
always sourced with ethical and ecological consideration.” As an
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PIÈCE DE
RÉSISTANCE This sensational standout piece from Scarab Jewellery features faceted chrysoprase stones tightly woven on a loom and finished on both ends with 18ct yellow gold bars (engraved). Yellow gold fob is adorned with a solid gold scarab charm. The whole look is sophisticated and glamorous, yet can be worn with anything – from evening glam to edgy daytime.
Scarab Jewellery
pièce de ré· sis·tance: an outstanding item or event: SHOWPIECE
Green chrysoprase woven cuff bracelet
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