JZA - Your Jewellery Magazine • Spring 2022

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

Janine

Editor-in-Chief &

Publishing Director Jason Aarons jason@isikhova.co.za

Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Creative Director Joanne Brook joanne@isikhova.co.za

Contributing Editor Adri Viviers Wordsmiths Africa - Khwezi Makeba Europe - Imer Koorb Pictures Editor Amahle Jali Copy Editor Anne Phillips Design intern Zian Cornelissen

BUSINESS

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of this

without

note from the

IN-CHIEF

Woza* spring!

This season we take great pleasure in inviting you to ‘come on’ and feel the incredible homegrown jewellery magic which shines through our nation. It’s a kind of magic we are extremely proud of and never cease to be enchanted by.

The authenticity South African jewellery designers impart in their creations is a source of such pleasure and inspiration to us. And while none of their storybooks are the same, the common ink which pens their journeys, writes of ‘Born in Africa’. The tale often takes us on a road of humble beginnings, endless trials and tribulations to ever-changing destinations and triumphs. Join us and wave our flag high!

* A Zulu word meaning "Come" or "come on”.

Jason Aarons

NOTE FROM THE

It has truly been an honour to contribute to JZA and shine a spotlight on jewellery makers who continue to enrich our world.

De Beers showcases the power of black designers through #BlackIsBrilliant - a partnership it has with RAD Red Carpet Advocacy - which brings together exceptional black jewellery designers with top celebrity stylists. The most inspiring jewellery moment is indeed the Brilliant & Black selling exhibition, curated by Melanie Grant. The second instalment at Sotheby’s London this September featured 70 designs from 25 black designers.

October is a busy month here in London. Goldsmiths’ Fair, showcasing a curated selection of work by some of the best fine jewellers and contemporary silversmiths, runs for two weeks, whilst PAD London, Design + Art, returns for a week-long showcase of exceptional design and jewellery. And I couldn’t be happier immersing myself in the midst of so much creativity.

Thank you for joining us on our jewellery journey at JZA. Smitha Sadanandan

Homegrown fine jewellery brand Piccolo shines yet again on our cover. Johann Claassens shares more about this exquisite ring and his brand.

We adore the piece. What was your inspiration behind it? This was a piece designed for a fashion designer living and working from her beach house. She wanted to capture her love for nature and the sea in something combined with some of the aquamarines she got from her grandmother.

What is your favorite gem/s to work with?

Personally, I love yellow and brown diamonds, but I don’t have a specific gemstone that’s my favorite.

Where do you go for inspiration for new collections or pieces? I like getting out my sketchbook and pencils and heading into nature.

Do trends influence your designs? Not at all, although we do design and make anything. We design and manufacture according to our clients'

needs and styles which can be influenced by trends. My own personal will always stay vintage.

If you could be a piece of jewellery, what would you choose and why!

This is interesting. I would probably choose one of the pieces in the Crown Jewels, maybe the sceptre?

I know it’s not a piece of jewellery but I admire the craftsmanship that went into making it.

What should people consider when getting bespoke jewellery designed? Personal style and budget. Don’t go with “trends”. Be you! If you can’t afford, it rather scale down. If you can afford it, make the most out of it!

What tip can you give our readers when it comes to jewellery care? Forget about all the fancy magic liquids and stuff you get in the shops. Warm water in a glass bowl with some

Sunlight Liquid and a baby toothbrush. Let your jewellery soak in the warm soapy water for five minutes and gently scrub it with the toothbrush. Rinse under running water and that’s it. The best is still to take your jewellery to a professional jeweller once a year for a good clean.

homegrown magic

TREND JZA ON

to bring the ultimate joie de vivre

HELLO, YELLOW!

We’re calling it yellow. Spring days of sunshine and fun are here – and what better colour with which to celebrate jewellery? Yellow is guaranteed to boost your mind, body, soul and bring the ultimate joie de vivre to your wardrobe.

are

There’s much more to rings than just engagement items and wedding bands.

Moving beyond the confinements of traditional jewellery, rings have grown to become an avant-garde fashion accessory with the power to make or break your style. They date as far back as 2500BC, so it’s no wonder there are so many types of rings today.

When it comes to accessories, rings reign supreme for versatility and self-expression. They’re also synonymous with charm and exquisite design. With different bands holding different meanings

WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

and celebrating a variety of occasions, you may want to explore each type before deciding which is right for you or your partner.

Read on for a guide to the 10 most popular ring types in South Africa and understand the different styles and their particular meanings.

Birthstone rings

ForeverGems

Birthstones are gemstones which are associated with one of the 12 months of the year. Birthstone rings can be adorned with genuine or synthetic gemstones,

depending on your budget, particularly because some birthstones (for example, April’s diamond or September’s sapphire) can be expensive. Birthstone rings come in a wide variety of styles.

Promise rings

Promise rings are a great alternative for couples who aren’t quite ready to commit to an engagement. A promise ring says:

AmericanSwiss

Promise rings are a great alternative for couples who aren’t quite ready to commit to an engagement

“We’re not getting married just yet, but we will at some point in the future.”

They can be given at any time as a symbol of commitment to the relationship.

Engagement rings

An engagement ring is typically worn on the third finger of the left hand, as it’s said that there is a vein which runs directly from that digit to the heart. (In fact, no such vein exists, but the tradition’s still very much alive!) Engagement rings range from affordable to über-expensive, based on the budget and choice of buyer.

Thomas Sabo

BlackBetty

Cocktail rings

Wedding rings

Traditionally, engagement and wedding rings have been worn together, often being designed as a bridal set or even being soldered together so that they become a single piece. They come in a variety of different widths, finishes and stone settings.

Anniversary rings After years of marriage, there’s another step many couples take – buying anniversary rings. They mark the time a couple has spent together and also symbolise the partners’ renewal of their mutual love and ongoing commitment.

Cocktail rings are larger and flashier than ordinary rings and are crafted to attract attention with their size, colours and brilliant designs. They are meant to be worn as prominent accessories which enhance an outfit. Like many costume jewellery pieces, the stones in cocktail rings are often imitations due to their large size, but those who can afford it can splurge on ravishing cocktail rings made with authentic gemstones.

Signet rings

Signet rings have traditionally been worn as a symbol of power and influence since ancient times. Today, a signet ring can be customised in many different ways, from sentimental vintage pieces to more modern designs. It can also be engraved with the wearer’s initials, a special symbol or a family crest, if there is one.

An antique ring is classified as one at least a century old, with many being even older, dating back to the Victorian, Georgian or Edwardian eras. Some antique rings even date back to the Art Deco era and are strikingly beautiful. Rings from the 1920s are presently becoming antique rings. Some of them are handed down for generations in a family, while others can be purchased at different types of sales, including estate sales and auctions. (See our feature on page 41)

Antique rings

DeBeers

Anna Rosholt

GIA

Jeulia

Mood rings

The basic purpose of the mood ring is to detect any shift in a person’s frame of mind, which is when the ring changes colour. Traditional mood rings featured fake gemstones that were usually made of either glass or quartz. These glass or quartz “stones” were hollow

shells filled with liquid crystals. The crystals were thermochromic, meaning they changed colour in response to fluctuations in temperature, rather than mood – but, hey, why debunk a good myth!?

Stackable rings Stackable bands are very popular at the moment and give you the option of creating something totally different. They can be worn on top of each other, with no two stacks alike. The uniqueness of the textures, stones and

finishes is what makes these rings stunning together. Some variety in a stack keeps it interesting, like a good mix-tape.

There are many more types of rings – but this basic guide should give you enough useful information to whet your appetite!

MAKE YOUR OWN FINGER SIZER

European notion READ FINGER SIZE HERE Cut slit here

Cut along outline Inner circumference of ring in mm 80mm

Copy this diagram and cut out ring sizer above. The arrows above should be the length as indicated. Insert the pointed end through the slit to form a circle with the numbers facing outward.

• Place finger inside circle, pull snugly and read the finger size as indicated.

Chocolate Jewellery

é rèse

Villiers Jewellery

Ubuyza

CLASSIC ROCK

Prized for centuries, diamonds are arguably the most classic and special gemstones. Amanqi Consultancy highlights unique diamond pieces designed by emerging jewellery brands from across the globe which are a must-have on your style radar.

Middle Eastern designers such as TOi Fine Jewelry, AILES Jewelry and Kaltham’s Pavilion incorporate diamonds into their signature pieces – the Sparkle, the Wave and Butterfly Bloom, respectively. Dubai-based XOIA Fine Jewellery plays with the contrast between blue sapphires

Louiza

AILES

yrellewe

and diamonds, while Obari does the same through the delicate use of pavé diamonds on yellow gold.

La Marquise Jewellery incorporates scintillating diamonds, cut to maximise their shine, in its Lumière bangles. TOKTAM’s intricately designed Veil collection uses diamonds to represent the mystique of the wedding veil.

Louiza Jewellery's Art Decoinspired ring features a 1ct diamond in the centre, set with baguette diamonds on each side; while Manjrie Fine Jewelry’s ring is a modern twist on the traditional Polki style of Indian jewellery.

Diamonds are arguably the most classic and special gemstones.

Obari

Manjrie

TOKTAM

La Marquise s Lumière

Kaltham'sPavilion

XOIA Fine Jewellery

Fine Jewelry

Noxolo Mseleku (Noxy)

- founder and owner of Elegânté - is known for her unique, customised creations. She has a deep love and passion for jewellery and its history, is the motivation behind her brand. She likens her jewellery pieces to dreams and travels “where imagination is limitless and possibilities are infinite”. Elegânté was also created to give designers/brands the opportunity to bring their ideas and designs to life. www.elegantersa.com

SIMPLICITY MAGNIFICENT

▶ Diver’s Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection. Oris

Last year’s Diver’s Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection from Oris brought some light in a dark time. Now it’s back, with an even brighter story in a delicious colour array of recycled Perlon straps in sky blue, wild green and lipstick pink. Oris

▼ LM Split Escapement EVO. MB&F

The MB&F’s (Max Busser & Friends) LM Split Escapement EVO is now available worldwide, in a different execution, with an icy-cool light blue dial plate and grey subdials. In addition, it has released a limited edition of 25 pieces reserved for its MB&F LAB opening soon in Beverly Hills, with a black dial plate and metallic blue subdials.

s Khwezi Makeba measures time

ASSUREDWRIST

▼ Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé Bouton collection. Chanel Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé Bouton collection: the Camellia motif watch’s iconic flower button flips open to show the time. Set against a lush burgundy velvet cuff, the inconspicuous timepiece makes a striking fashion accessory as well.

◀ LM The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition. Bvlgari

LM The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition boats a unique and incredibly striking overall aesthetic. This exceptional limited edition is architecturally inspired - created with Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima - and a “wow” of a statement piece!

The blue-green glow of the Paraíba tourmaline is the cornerstone of an exceptional new creation by Arnold & Son. The dial adopts the same shade as the Paraíba, which is one of the rarest and most precious gemstones and is pavé -set on the three-dimensional astronomical moon.

ASSURED

There are mesmerising luxury timepieces new to Haute Horology this season. Grand designs which boast a bold declaration of superior craftsmanship, form and functionality. So get dressed to the nines as we present our sensations…

The jewel in the crown of Tateossian's timepiece collection. It features a dial made solely of natural black mother of pearl semi-precious stone, skilfully cut and highly polished to create a smooth mirror finish. Simplistic sleek design, super-slim profile and lightweight.

◀ UR-100V "UltraViolet" Uwerk

The new UR-100V "UltraViolet" is a limited edition and is worn on a textured white rubber strap with a titanium pin buckle. Playful in purple, it imparts a really “cool” vibe and while it may not be everyone’s taste, it remains captivating and unique.

◀ Credor. Seiko Credor is Seiko's luxury line. These watches set them apart with high-quality materials, innovative technology and exquisite craftsmanship. The name Credor comes from the French Créte d'Or, meaning ‘’the ultimate of the gold.’’

◀ Compliquée Peacock 18K Rose Gold White Watch. Fabergé

This timepiece pays homage to Peter Carl Fabergé’s famous “Peacock Egg” of 1908. It features a white dial, hand-engraved peacock, white neoralithe rotating hour ring and minute track. Features a retrograde handwinding movement. Encased in a 38mm rose gold case, with calf leather strap.

▶ Luna Magna Ultimate II. Arnold & Son

▼ Tateossian’s Prezioso. Tateossian

FOR MERMAIDS AND MAGICAL BEINGS

anine Binneman Jewellery embraces the unique power and sentiment of colour, from classic, antiqueinspired engagement rings to ultracontemporary pieces. Binneman’s forté lies in interpreting clients’ design direction and transforming it into “all about you” masterpieces.

“I’ve spent the past 25 years mastering the craft of jewellery design that’s adorned my loyal clientele of mermaids

and kick-ass humans,” she says. “Each gorgeous, sparkling creation is an expression of magic, love and emotion, from my heart to yours.”

www.janinebinneman.com

by Akapo Jewels

THE ALLURE OF AKAPO

www.akapo.com

From earth to adornement

Afrom earth to adornment. Each of their headturning, eye-catching jewellery pieces tell a story of passion and a love of platinum, especially through their Dibenya collection.

With more than 40 years experience, this luxury brand is a collaboration between Akapo Jewels Incorporation and the Dibenya Platinum Project. Together this partnership has produced the most elegantly crafted, high-end Jewellery.

Akapo specialises in era pieces, doublé technique, model making and in all precious metals and precious stones. They have frequently been commissioned to craft exclusive creations and are actively committed, and involved, in systematically training and developing young, up-andcoming entrepreneurs in the jewellery industry.

◀ Wumba Kapo, Akapo managing director

Nomad Jewellery and Accessories was founded by its creative director and designer Heidi Liebenberg in 2009. She conceptualises and designs all products, from capsule collections to individual bespoke pieces, and each of them exemplifies her creativity and love of the gems and metals from Mother Earth.

N MAD’S LAND

“We believe strongly in the individual and their story. Using abstract symbolism, we create meaning and connections for the wearer,” says Liebenberg. Collections explore esoteric Africa with inspiration from Nomad’s very own goddess of love Afrodite. Influences from heavenly bodies and exotic gemstone combinations in updated signet and solitaire shapes – the creative language of Nomad’s jewellery speaks volumes. www.nomadjewelleryandaccessories.com

Amanqi Consultancy’s upcoming showroom during PFW will showcase a line-up of some of the most talented new names in fine jewellery, accessories and fashion.

Jwaher Jewels We’re truly blessed to be part of PFW for the second time and will be showing our signature collection, Heartleaf and our special Almurabba design, inspired by Saudi Najdi architecture.

TOi Fine Jewelry We’re thrilled to showcase our signature Sparkle collection, as well as several brand-new pieces and look forward to bringing our sparkle to Paris.

BONJOUR!

Louiza Jewellery During PFW, I’m hoping to get international exposure, press coverage and valuable experience being in the centre of the jewellery industry.

Kaltham’s Pavilion I’m excited and grateful to showcase my latest Cosmic collection, as well as pieces from other popular collections. It will be my first time exhibiting to an international audience and the first step towards building a global presence.

Paris Fashion Week (PFW) is set to sparkle

TOKTAM We look forward to seeing what the world of design has in store this season at PFW. We’ll be showcasing multiple collections, such as the Daffodil and Mosque lines.

OBARI We’re looking forward to showcasing our diverse lines of jewellery and introducing our latest Versant collection, which includes our stackable rings in three different finishes.

XOIA Fine Jewellery PFW is definitely a strong and amazing platform for an emerging designer like me. I launched three collections – Duality, Pierce and Tria – simultaneously and will showcase pieces from each collection. The collection is versatile and timeless, and I’m very proud to share it with the world.

Jwaher

Jewels

Kaltham's Pavilion

OBARI

XOIA Fine Jewellery

LouizaJewellery

TOKTAM

T O i F ine Jewelry

PRECIOUS PERSONAL

PIECES

Phatsima is derived from the Setswana word which means shine. And for Phatsima Jewellery Designs, it symbolises giving light - the light of happiness which jewellery brings to one’s life for any special occasion. Their exquisite collection comprises of pieces using new and old traditional manufacturing techniques with precious materials such as silver, gold, platinum, diamonds and gemstones. Founded by Nontando Molefe, the brand has become a global success from creating a unique piece of jewellery which reflects your style to reinventing an old treasured piece.

www.phatsimajd.com

hen it comes to jewellery, the unique, the sentimental and the bespoke are continuing to trend, but lately, it’s actually the stars that are speaking loudest. Whether you believe in the magic of zodiac signs or not, as an intimate form of personalised selfexpression, zodiacinspired jewellery shines day or night.

One of the great things about zodiac signs is that they differ from one another. No matter what your budget or personal aesthetic, it’s possible to find the perfect zodiac ring, necklace or earrings to add to your own or someone special’s jewellery box.

STRUCK

Aquarius (20 January-18 February)

Aquarians are known to be creative, inventive and daring, and these qualities are reflected in their jewellery choices as well. They want to wear jewellery that will make them stand out – or nothing at all.

The garnet is the Aquarian’s stone and is available in nearly every colour under the sun, including red, orange, pink, purple and green.

Pisces (19 February-20 March)

Selfless Pisceans tend to be trend-followers, with their taste in jewellery changing with the times. This can make picking jewellery for them a little tricky.

As a water sign, it’s only fitting that aquamarine is one of Pisces’ stones, as it encourages and embraces change while signifying core values and beliefs.

Aries (21 March-19 April)

The enthusiasm and high energy of Aries are impossible to miss – which is why when it comes to jewellery, Arians tend to gravitate toward angularity and spikes in design.

Diamond is their zodiac stone which stimulates feelings of strength and courage.

Taurus (20 April-20 May)

If you know a Taurus, then you know they love nothing more than luxury – yet they’re surprisingly practical. Taureans tend to push the envelope by pairing trendy jewellery with classic items, or bold piece with delicate ones.

Their birthstone is an emerald, a gemstone that manifests strength, compassion and love. All of these are Taurean qualities.

Gemini (21 May-20 June)

Geminis' vibrant personality will opt for delicately designed jewellery which makes them seem more youthful-like star shapes. They love telling their stories in everything they do and wear, including their jewellery, which is why they adore charm bracelets.

The official Gemini stone is a pearl.

Cancer (21 June-22 July)

Cancerians tend to hold onto everything due to sentimental value. It’s never about the monetary aspect when it comes to jewellery but rather the feelings behind it. So, if you’re choosing jewellery as a gift for them, make sure it’s well thought out and has some emotional meaning behind it.

The ruby, which represents purity, wisdom, love and devotion, is the official stone for Cancerians.

Leo (23 July-22 August)

If you know a Leo, they’re probably in the limelight! It’s not surprising that they love big, bold statement pieces.

The peridot, which has been known throughout the ages as the “gem of the sun”, is the official stone for Leos and promotes strength, health and happiness.

Virgo (23 August-22 September)

Virgos are extremely detail-orientated and modest in nature. Their preference is for delicate jewellery that’s minimalistic, yet has fine detail.

The sapphire is believed to enhance the positive traits and helps the already meticulous Virgo become even more diligent. Sapphires are also known for enhancing wisdom, sincerity and prosperity.

Virgo’s preference is for delicate jewellery.

Emily Nixon

Libra (23 September-22 October)

Librans pick up on fashion trends quite easily. They know exactly what their style is and what looks good on them – and they never compromise on this. Their jewellery choices tend to be uncomplicated. Scales or abstract designs that depict justice and balance are ideal shapes for Libra star sign jewellery.

Librans pick up on fashion trends quite easily.

Scorpio (23 October-21 November)

Mysterious Scorpions are known to keep their true emotions and opinions a secret, so if you’re buying a gift for one, all we have to say is: “Good luck!” (Just kidding!)

They gravitate from classic pieces with an edge to bold jewellery with stones. Their gem is topaz symbolising love, affection, joy and generosity.

Sagittarius (22 November-21 December) Everyone loves an optimist, which means everyone loves Sagittarians! Since they’re known for their jet-setting tendencies, they love jewellery that represents travel in some way. Ranging from velvety blue to violet, tanzanite is always enchanting to look at and the perfect stone for this star sign.

Capricorn (22 December-19 January)

Capricorns are realists who believe in quality over quantity. This theme translates into their jewellery choices, since they view jewellery as investment pieces and value high-quality craftsmanship.

Their gemstone of choice is a black tourmaline which provides grounding and protection.

Ardmore Design

Suzanne Kalan from My Theresa

Elizabeth Gage from Omn

que

Maya'sJewellery

Fruugo

▲ EQUILIBRIO

The Herd Owami neckpiece 5. www.equilibrio.co.za

▲ PICCOLO JEWELLERY

Veronique elegant rose gold ring. Set with a marquise cut morganite and small damonds. www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

▲

Silver leaf silhouette necklace from the Fynbos Collection. www.deonsmithjewellery.com

Presenting JZA’s spring look-book of fun, fabulousness, inspirations and ideas to adorn. From glorious gold to sublime silver, there’s a kaleidoscope of colours and magical materials. Your retail therapy session is now officially OPEN, so let’s go shopping!

▼ ME.MI

Gold flower sketch pebble necklace www.memijewellery.com

▶ JAMES RALPH

The Casio MRG-B2000B-1A4 with inspiration from akazonae –the colour of the crimson armour worn by elite samurai and associated with gallantry and valour. www.jamesralph.com

◀ VAWDA JEWELLERS

Sheer elegance! Custom-designed engagement and wedding rings to add sparkle to those special days. www.vawdajewellers.co.za

GO WILD

South African jewellery designer Kevin Friedman from Frankli Wild, creates one-ofa-kind pieces which use an innovative combination of high caratage gemstones and precious metals with ordinary everyday “found objects”. His collections have featured the inclusion of various alternative materials, from wood and old ship parts, to computer components, and collectible antiques, all of which are beautifully set amongst precious metals and exquisite gemstones. His pieces depict a lifelong fascination with the distinctive arts and crafts of South Africa which has proven invaluable as an inspiration for his work. www.frankliwild.com

Ready. Set. Spring.

you need

VS ANTIQUE

Understanding exactly when any object was made – and therefore how valuable it really is – can be confusing.

Vintage jewellery, according to its formal definition, is second-hand jewellery (often timepieces) which is older than 20 years, but younger than 100 years. This includes jewellery from the 1930s and the Retro Era, Hollywoodinspired 1940s jewellery, Jacqueline Kennedy-inspired 1960s jewellery and even the

▼ Keyamour

bangle.

▼ Vintage 1970's earrings and bracelet.

Burle Marx Jewels

◀ Emerald, onyx and diamond pendant necklace by Georges Fouquet. Christies

▶ Cartier Art Deco aquamarine and diamond earrings. Christies

▼ Vintage Small Bone Cuff. Elsa Peretti®

dramatic jewellery of the 1970s and 1980s. As of the present, vintage jewellery is any piece that was created before 2002. Antique engagement rings and other pieces, by contrast, are from the Georgian Era, the Victorian Era, the Edwardian Era or the Art Deco Era. As of 2022, antique jewellery refers to any piece created before 1922.

The jewellery in this category showcases an antique diamond (like the Old Mine Diamond or Old European Diamond) reset in platinum or gold that borrows influence in design from one of the aforementioned eras.

Age is very important to those who love vintage jewellery.

When purchasing a piece of jewellery, understanding the difference between antique and vintage can potentially save you a lot of money and help you decipher much of the information on the web. Age is very important to those who love vintage jewellery and these terms are their building blocks.

Knowing the definitions will also give you a tremendous edge of confidence as a buyer. If you see the terms used incorrectly, it’s a sure sign that something’s amiss. Vintage jewellery-buying hinges strongly on trust and education. If something’s missing in a jeweller’s education, you may need to start doubting the authenticity of the jewellery piece.

Arming yourself with knowledge is the greatest way to buy effectively. Learn and memorise all the common jewellery terminology before you go shopping.

1950s costume choker. Bijoux Cascio, Invaluable com

◀ Nephrite, tiger's eye and gold brooch. Fabergé

white enamel door knocker earrings.

Webb

18ct gold and coral ring.

Antiques

With thanks to author Benjamin Khordipour. Article first published in The Estate Diamond Jewel blog.

when in doubt, always ask an expert jeweller!

Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin

Pinterest

◀ Victorian double snake ring with mine-cut eyes in 15-carat gold, circa 1860. Courtesy of Beth Bernstein (Personal Collection)

INTERVIEW:

▼ Etruscan Revival gold fringe necklace with palmettes and floral motifs, French, circa 1885. Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

BETH BERNSTEIN

Jewellery historian, author and journalist, Beth Bernstein’s books include If These Jewels Could Talk (ACC Artbooks, 2015), Jewelry’s Shining Stars (Fine Points Publishing, 2013) and My Charmed Life (Penguin, 2012). Her newest book, The Modern Guide to Antique Jewellery, will take you on a ‘tour through time, venturing from the 1700s all the way through to the early 20th century.’

We chat to Beth about antique jewellery and styling them:

You seem to be drawn to Georgian and Victorian era. What do you love about jewels from these periods? They were steeped in sentimental meaning

— I personally like late Georgian and early Victorian. It was a time when people couldn’t express their feelings freely so many of the jewels spoke to romance, lust, passion, friendship through the language of flowers, acrostics, rebus and gemstone meanings.

▶ Edwardian-era diamond and platinum choker, adorned with detailed millegrain, featuring a bow and floral motif and fitted with old-mine-cut diamonds, circa 1905. Courtesy of M. Khoridpour

▲ Micromosaic brooch depicting the Forum in Rome, circa 1850. Courtesy The Spare Room Antiques

BERNSTEIN

Charm necklaces are gaining popularity – what kind of antique charms and styles would work together? Whatever tells your story best. I mix antique with vintage with modern. My charm necklaces tend to be more thematic in a sense that one is dedicated to love and passion, the other to luck, another to travel (I am superstitious about travel) and pretty much everything else. Then there are some that are dedicated to love, luck, protection and guidance. It’s more about the meaning and then the way in which you lay it out so the charms can be seen. I am not really a fan of the “neck mess” so I tend to wear graduated charm necklaces and the

charms are hanging at some asymmetrical parts of the chain. I then tend to mix certain charms or medallions around depending on what I am feeling or want to feel or belief at that moment in my life. I think that this is a very personal way to wear jewellery and there is no right or wrong way — whatever works best for the wearer and makes them feel their best.

What’s the key rule for layering old and new necklaces, effortlessly? Don’t try too hard. The more you try and “style” the necklaces the less effortless it looks. But do try and graduate instead of having everything at one length and also wear the lighter chains at the top with smaller charms or medallions. It’s also really fun if you have a riviere or tennis necklace or anything that is a true necklace to start with that whether antique or modern and then graduate from there. Try to have a focal point and a balance but then

▶ Natural Burma sapphire and diamond cluster necklace set in gold and silver, English, circa 1870. Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie 1860. Courtesy of Kentshire. Photograph: Kevin Kish for Kentshire, NYC

▲ Turquoise serpent necklace with diamond and garnet-set head, in 18-carat gold, circa 1860. Courtesy of Kentshire. Photograph: Kevin Kish for Kentshire, NYC

always have something unexpected like a charm off to the side, or a brooch clasped to a chain allowing the open parts to dangle, and turning it into more of a bolo effect.

A fun, lively and chic reference book, beautifully illustrated throughout Insider knowledge and trade secrets from top dealers and shop owners

Guidance on what to buy and how to value pieces from past eras

BY JASON AARONS

HBO’s House of Dragons fantasy drama series – the prequel to Game of Thrones –is breathing renewed, exciting and invigorating life into all things dragon in men’s jewellery. Whether you’re newly smitten or a die-hard, obsessed dragon fan, these pieces are sure-fire options for making an impression and setting you up as king on your own iron throne!

And as Daemon Targaryen (Matt Smith) observes in the blockbuster show: “Dreams didn’t make us kings –dragons did.”

These pieces are surefire options for making an impression.

Jewellery carrying the image of a dragon symbolises light and life.

Wish

l

PMC Jewellery

GLOBAL CONNECT

WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

Vinita Navale elevates her fashionable offerings

Launched in 2018, Callista, a fashion jewellery brand comprises bold pieces with an eclectic edge inspired by nature, vintage glamour rendered in luxurious colours and textures.

“I also design bespoke pieces for clients and have always been fascinated by Greek mythology, culture and its resemblance to Indian mythology. I wanted my line to have a name with deep significance and which resonated with the pieces and brand ethos. The name ‘Callista’ in Greek, means ‘most beautiful’,” says Vinita.

Bespoke bridge jewellery I would describe my pieces as bridge jewellery. They are neither fashion jewellery nor fine but feature 18k gold plating over brass, sterling silver or made in gold vermeil. I wanted to create something that is accessible but feels luxurious and made with the same attention to detail as one

would devote to fine jewellery. The key focus is comfort, weight, design, style and statement. Although I do not follow trends, I bear in mind various technical elements - proportion, balance, movement and harmony - while designing.

Most of my pieces - made in Mumbai and Jaipur (India) - are set with cubic zirconia, semi-precious or lab-created gems and cultured pearls.

Vision My vision is to see Callista thrive in the next few years and make its mark globally - especially in the European market – and build a brand that people love and sell at independent designer stores.

JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

Circle of life

US-based designer Mansi Pandya’s family has been involved with jewellery for many years. She grew up wearing meaningful pieces and wanted to make the same for others to wear as well. Mansi studied diamond grading and gem identification at GIA. “I don’t work with my family, but they have been a strong inspiration. Having them in the industry definitely helps me when I need to find resources,” says Mansi. Her namesake brand was launched in April 2020 at the beginning of the pandemic.

What sets my brand apart:

I wanted to create everyday fine jewellery. Typically, when you think of everyday pieces, you think of diamond studs or hoops or a tennis bracelet. All of which are essentials for sure, but I wanted to create something more stylish, with everyday elegance.

Debut line: I didn’t really have an official debut, it was more of a soft launch. I had some designs that I wanted to try out to get a feel of the market. My signature collections, The Origins of Art and Euphoria, were launched later in the year. Gem Drop was launched the following year.

Design inspiration: I seek inspiration from things around me or from history. I mostly get inspired by shapes and emotions.

The Origins of Art is inspired by geometric shapes, but also a message. I’m drawn to clean forms – I think a clean look is important for everyday elegance. When it comes to overlapping circles or pieces, I wanted to show how life comes full circle. These shapes have been around since the beginning of time and their artistry helped design the world we now know whether it be architecture, silhouettes in nature, or even day-today objects we use. We are constantly surrounded by these motifs. The Origins of Art and Euphoria are thus inspired by an emotion. I wanted to make a romantic collection that is both feminine and vibrant based on the dreamy idea of heartfelt happiness and nostalgia. My Gem Drop collection is inspired by the colours of Indian festivals and their liveliness.

Faithful to rose gold

Founders of Walters Faith, Mollie Faith Good and Stephanie Walters Abramow are reaping the benefits of designing pieces that are effortless to wear. The pavé diamond details and all rose gold are a signature. Besides, these pieces can be layered for a chic effect. “Rose gold is always strong and at our brand’s core. We have seen some beautiful special orders in white gold but rose is still strong,” says Mollie. While they tend to be a colourless brand by choice, their collaboration with Olivia Chantecaille – OC x WF – includes champagne diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, amethysts and emeralds. “We are seeing our clients gravitate towards these colourful pieces.”

The brand continues to do well with the Saxon link bracelets. This summer, they launched the Morell collection and offered necklaces with bigger, bolder link elements. The great response over the years to the Bell collection promoted the duo to expand the line and create wearable everyday pieces perfect for self-purchases or gifting. “We love the simplicity of the design and subtlety of the hand-etched engraving and diamond,” adds Stephanie. They will incorporate initial jewels in the rock crystal line, which will be exclusive to Neiman Marcus. Walters Faith is launching with Saks and is also available in seven new Neiman Marcus stores, Korman Jewelers, Hamilton Butler and Ylang Ylang, among others.

Rose gold is always strong and at our brand’s core

FEATURED

Spring issue brand supporters

Akapo Jewels www.akapo.co.za info@akapo.co.za +27 (0)60 874 2370

Amanqi Consultancy www.theamanqiconsultancy.com manal@theamanqiedit.com +971 54 410 7187

Bancroft – The Vintage Emporium www.bancroftantiques.co.za bancroftjhb@gmail.com +27 (0)82 823 1492

Big Blue www.bigblue.co.za online@bigblue.co.za +27 (0)11 021 7644

Brian Bosman Goldsmith Studio www.brianbosman.co.za divagoldsmith@yahoo.com +27 (0)71 193 1872

De Beers Group www.debeersgroup.com Jackie Mapiloko Snr Communications Manager +27 (0)11 374 7000

Deon Smith Jewellery www.deonsmithjewellery.com deon@deonsmithjewellery.com +27 (0)83 454 2161

EGL South Africa www.egl.co.za services@egl.co.za +27 (0)11 334 4527

Equilibrio www.equilibrio.co.za info@equilibrio.co.za +27 (0)72 044 7151

Gemological Institute of America (GIA) www.gia.edu Contact Us +1 760 603 4000 –Global HQ

Impilo Collection www.impilocollection.co.za info@impilocollection.co.za +27 (0)10 021 0441

Isikhova Marketing www.isikhova.co.za lamees@isikhova.co.za +27 (0)11 883 4627

James Ralph www.jamesralph.com info@jamesralph.com +27 (0)11 314 8888

Jewellery Council of South Africa www.jewellery.org.za admin@jewellery.org.za +27 (0)11 484 5528

Karlien Designs www.karliendesigns.co.za karlien@karliendesigns.co.za +27 (0)83 659 2607 Me-mi www.memijewellery.com info@memijewellery.com +27 (0)21 480 9860

Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery www.piccolo-jewellery.co.za info@piccolo-jewellery.co.za +27 (0)83 396 6178

Randeree Jewellers www.randereejewellers.com info@randereejewellers.com +27 (0)31 202 4701

ShopJewellex www.jewellery.org.za jewellex@jewellery.org.za +27 (0)11 484 5528

Solitaire Magazine www.solitairemagazine.co.za subscription@media-group.com +65 6446 6888

The Platinum Incubator www.tpi.org.za info@tpi.org.za +27 (0)14 597 0736

Vawda Gold Gem Jewellers www.vawdagoldgem.co.za info@vawdagoldgem.co.za +27 (0)31 208 9142

Victoria’s Jewellery www.victorias.co.za shop@victorias.co.za +27 (0)73 259 4463

PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE

pièce de ré·sis·tance: an outstanding item or event: SHOWPIECE

Contemporary handmade jewellery using precious metals and mixed media, incorporating both precious and semiprecious gemstones, reflects in this “Cobweb” bangle from The Wild Coast Trading Company.

The wire-worked bangle is crafted in rustic sterling silver, with a moonstone centre and beautifully curved and diagonal lines.

Three silver strands lead down to the clasp in a shiny, smooth finish.

The Wild Coast Trading Company sources beautifully handmade products including jewellery, natural beauty products, traditional Xhosa clothing, wire crafts, home décor and pottery directly from crafters and artists based primarily in the Wild Coast area of the Eastern Cape.