JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine • Winter 2021

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WINTER 2021

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

#jzaontrend


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CONTENTS

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Getting to know hue Express yourself with winter colours Come in with the bold Be seen on the scene with seasonal shapes and styles

Oh So

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h

11

Out of Africa Handcrafted and indigenous jewellery

Lyn c

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All that jazz Hashing out the next big hashtag in ZA

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Diamonds divine What the “sparklers” are getting up to Whites in shining armour The ideal colour pop for your wardrobe – white watches

d

ro

ts

uc

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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Brides & the Beautiful Walk down the aisle with JZA

Cas

S y d n ey

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in s

ou

th

er

n Afric a

Boho C

ap


Managing Director Imraan Mahomed imraan@isikhova.co.za Creative Director Joanne Brook joanne@isikhova.co.za Director: Brand Strategy Jenny Justus jenny@isikhova.co.za / 083 450 6052 Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Contributing Editor Adri Viviers Pictures Editor Amahle Jali

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Operations & Admin Thuli Majola thuli@isikhova.co.za

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Ste

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Copy Editor Anne Phillips

Europe & USA Correspondent Gill Hyslop

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49 54 56

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The magic of medallions Jewellery with meaning Proudly South African JZA chats to local jewellery designer Natasha Swart

60 62 63

Creature feature Jewellery inspired by the animal kingdom

Retail therapy A homegrown selection to enchant, inspire and, of course, buy. It’s so therapeutic! Animals of Kameleona When jewellery meets nature

Wordsmith-Africa Khwezi Makeba

Global Media Alliance Partners Solitaire Magazine www.solitairemagazine.com

Pièce de résistance This issue’s “Made in ZA” showpiece

Global connect Your passport to an international and inspiring storybook Make every second sparkle Fall in love with these timeless timepieces

Asia Pacific Region Solitaire Magazine Anton Javier, Deputy Editor Gynn Lee, Business Manager

Media Specialist Gail Keogh gail@isikhova.co.za / 082 929 4934

Featured Issue 3 brand supporters

CoNNect Agency, UK www.theagencyconnect.com Jewellery Council of South Africa Lorna Lloyd, CEO Membership enquiries: admin@jewellery.org.za Tel: +27 11 484 5528 / Fax: 086 504 95212 The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg.

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Editor-in-Chief & Publishing Director Jason Aarons jason@isikhova.co.za

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JZA/Tsogo Sun competition entry deadline extended Due to COVID-19 Adjusted Alert Level 4 travel restrictions, the organisers of the competition have extended the entry deadline until 30 July. Click here to enter

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine is independently published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd and is part of the SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio viewable at www.jewellerysa.co.za 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg 2193, South Africa Telephone +27 11 883 4627 www.isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & General Enquiries jza@isikhova.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the publisher, contributors or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, the owners, the Editor-in-Chief, the publisher; media alliance partners nor any of its endorsed organisations or contributors, can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine © 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.

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A note from the

EDITORIN-CHIEF Sitting outside on a late June autumn afternoon, I felt excitingly rejuvenated and reassured by the warmth and sunshine. In my line of sight were several pots of indigenous spekboom, a smallleafed succulent plant indigenous to South Africa. And therein lay the inspiration to pen my note.

WORDSMITHS

Proudly South African/African features boldly in this issue. The wealth of indigenous jewellery design talent we have in our country is remarkable and worldclass. Whether their influences are culturally or heritage-based, natureinspired, contemporary, draw on themes from past decades

Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicagobased Smitha – a freelance journalist specialising in the luxury industry. She tracks international trends in the jewellery sector and provides an insightful perspective as analyst and contributor to TRENDVISION (Jewellery + Forecasting). She writes for print, digital platforms internationally, including Solitaire and The Adventurine.

or offer a unique South African perspective, we can be incredibly proud of our homegrown offerings. And what make them even more exciting are the materials being used – from clay, wood and recycled glass to ceramic, resin, semi-precious stones and an embrace of copper and brass. Viva Afrika! The celebration continues with JZA’s Brides and the Beautiful section – our “how to for ‘I do’” – where we invite you to walk down the aisle with us and discover an enchantment of jewellery to shine in on your magical day. Of course, you also have JZA’s virtual passport to an international storybook of on-point global designs and captivating collections. Remember, let your jewellery be you, let its colours be you and let it talk to you. Be safe always and keep sparkling!

Editor-in-Chief Jason Aarons

Adri Viviers Adri is the Editor of JZA’s sister magazine, SA Jewellery News (SAJN), official publication of the Jewellery Council of SA. She is highly respected among the jewellery fraternity and during her 10+year editorship, and has represented SAJN at prestigious international shows in Hong Kong Italy and India. She is also Editor of African Odyssey and Jewellery Biz-News.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Gill Hyslop Gill has been in the publishing industry for more than 30 years, having worked on numerous B2B and consumer titles, including as Editor of SA Jewellery News from 2005-2009. She is also a consummate foodie and has worked as a chef and on charter yachts in the Mediterranean. Her global resumé includes her present editorship of BakeryandSnacks.


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ALL THAT

JAZZ

Hashing out the next big hashtag! 1.

#jewellery, #jewellerysouthafrica,

2.

#homegrown, #jewelleryfashion,

3.

#jewels, #trendyjewellery, #jewellerylovers, #handmadejewelry, #jewelrydesigner . . . the “hash” goes on. So, with all these fabulous go-to’s for 21st-century jewellery and fashion aficionados, we’ve decided to make getting your jewellery glam on

5.

much easier.

4.

#jzaontrend is about jewellery fabulousness. It’s about excitement, originality, boldness, innovation, uniqueness, style, sassiness and much more. Each issue, we’ll bring you a seasonal storyboard of our favourite #jzaontrend selections from our own

6.

incredible homegrown talent to global inspirations and brands. And, of course, you’ll be able

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to follow the hashtag on our social media too. Here's our edit of this season’s selection of #jzaontrend.

1. Green and turquoise shellwave necklace. Olive Coral 2. 60mm Perspex cuff with engraved cut-out pin cushion protea detail. Philippa Green Jewellery 3. Pink and yellow colour me Venda ring. Sanani Jewellers 4. Abstract wave design signet ring set with 0,15ct black diamond, set in 18K yellow gold. Nungu Diamonds 5. Daisyfern and autumn leaf earrings. Noemnoem Jewellery 6. Thousand Hills elements necklace in red gold and silver. Beloved Beadwork 7. Silver pendant neckpiece using porcelain and assorted semi-precious beads. Studio Loubser

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


6 ◀ Nala beaded Maasai necklace. Indigo Blue Trading

▲ Basket earrings. Smith Jewellery

▶ Necklace made with carefully selected African print, beads and buttons. Etsy

WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

M

odern jewellery has broken away from the conventional, causing innovative homegrown jewellery designers to use

unusual and quirky materials in their pieces. Many focus on South African- and African-inspired motifs or use local gems and metals to create exquisite pieces which are lauded by local and international consumers. With the spotlight firmly on homegrown African, JZA’s readers are taking a closer look at the jewellery they buy and rethinking the materials used to fashion their rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Designers’ choices have given rise to unique compositions and shapes, enhancing the creativity of contemporary jewellery.

OUT OF

Wood Wood brings a natural aesthetic to any jewellery piece. There are many ▲ Men's silver tungsten ring with double, natural acacia koa wood inlay. #Bamboo

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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types of wood, each with its own characteristics.

Expect the unexpected with handcrafted and indigenous jewellery

◀ Abioye brass pendant. Adele Dejak

The colour, shape and grain of a piece of wood make it unique and visually interesting, while exuding natural warmth. Wood is a sturdy material that lasts far longer than many other jewellery materials which

pendants, earrings, bangles

may crack or fade over time.

and rings. Many glass

Glass

their glass pieces with silver

Contrary to popular belief, most glass jewellery is neither delicate nor fragile. It can be bold, colourful and make a big fashion statement. Artists can fashion glass beads,

jewellery-makers mount or gold bezels, which then become the centrepiece “gems” of the designs. Leather There are many different types of leather available today, including full-grain leather, corrected-grain leather, suede, patent leather and buckskin. Leather can be stamped, carved or painted to create a number of unique looks. ◀ Six-piece glass chilli’s in rainbow colours on a 4mm PVC necklace. Glass Roots ◀ Labradorite sterling silver ring. Gemineyes

◀ Leather and glass Africa bracelet. Adjani

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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Its versatility has made it ◀ Orbicular jasper pendant wrapped in copper. Gemineyes

a very popular material for jewellery. Ceramic A popular trend is necklaces, brooches and rings made from kiln-fired clay. Essentially, these are mini-sculptures worn on the fingers, around the neck or on a favourite shirt. Some makers colour their pieces with glaze, while

▲ Sterling silver brass and copper Ring. Oh So Boho

others leave their designs bone-white. Resin Resin has become a popular choice in jewellery-

▶ LOLA GUS “Emilie” earrings. Combination with lightweight perspex. Earring pins in sterling silver. Lotti Core Jewellery

making. In some cases, the designs are created by simply mixing together different colours of resin or adding dye to the same. Colours can be suspended inside translucent resin or it can be left as opaque. ▼ A colourful bracelet by Mano Christelis made from a combination of hand-cast resin beads mixed with a variety of glass beads. ZA Etc

Cubism-inspired earrings. VITU Jewellery

The most common style of resin jewellery is suspending decorative elements or objects inside clear resin. There can be almost any small object – dried flowers, plastic pieces, metals or glitter. Semi-precious stones Diamonds have long been the obvious choice for fine jewellery, but other types of gemstones are becoming increasingly popular. Whether for budgetary reasons or simply out of personal preference, alternative gemstones offer a pop of colour which is highly attractive. What about alternative metals?

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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◀ Pod gold pendant with leaf and chain, hand-crafted in 9k gold reclaimed from circuit boards. AuTerra

Silver Silver is the most commonly used metal after gold and platinum in the jewellery industry. Silver is significantly softer than gold or platinum, making it less than ideal for intricate stone-setting or Photo by Roman Shilin on Unsplash

engraving. However, it has long been a very popular choice for costume and fashion jewellery. Brass Made of copper and zinc, this metal is widely found

Stainless steel

very popular alternative

in costume and vintage

Widely used for its sleek

for men’s jewellery and

jewellery. When brass

appearance, this metal

considerably cheaper than

is polished, it bears a

lends itself to contemporary

gold and platinum (though

striking resemblance

designs and is commonly

still costlier than silver).

to yellow gold. Brass can

found in men’s jewellery.

easily be cut, soldered and

Stainless steel is also

repaired by a jeweller.

durable, difficult to scratch and inexpensive.

Copper

Tungsten Tungsten (when alloyed with carbide) is also lightweight and often

Known outside of jewellery

Titanium

marketed as being hard

for the beautiful green

Titanium is incredibly

to scratch. It is also a

patinas that develop over

lightweight and feels like

popular alternative for

time, copper is beginning

an aluminium washer in

men’s jewellery and

to be seen in more craft

terms of heft. Those who

many designers are using

jewellery styles. Copper is

are unaccustomed to

tungsten (and titanium)

inexpensive and has a warm

wearing jewellery often

specifically for the male

and interesting red colour.

prefer this material. It’s a

wedding band market.

With the spotlight firmly on homegrown African, JZA’s readers are taking a closer look at the jewellery they buy.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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Samba A voluptuous, sultry red, Samba introduces an upbeat energy. David Webb

Rose Tan A gentle dusky pink, Rose Tan imparts a sense of composure. Marilyn Tan

Sandstone Tied to nature, earthy Sandstone speaks of the rustic outdoors. Gurhan

GETTING TO

Fired Brick Strong and sturdy, Fired Brick adds gravitas. Earrings by Georg Jensen

Ultramarine Green A deep-cooling blue-green exudes self-assurance and poise. Roberto Coin

WORDS BY GILL HYSLOP

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Let this season’s moodboard speak to you

ere colour, unspoiled by meaning and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a Green Sheen Optimistically rebellious, Green Sheen is a bold acidic yellow-green shade that will always stand out. Fei Liu

thousand different ways,” said Oscar Wilde. And the autumn/winter colour storyboard certainly does just that – from storytelling to creating mood and expressing our inner identities.

Magenta Purple A hypnotic purple shade intrigues and mesmerises. John Hardy

Peach Nougat Nurturing Peach Nougat embraces with its inviting warmth. Gigi Ferranti

lassic Blue Evocative of the vast and infinite evening sky opening us up to a world of possibilities. Jacob & Co

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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It’s also intrinsically linked to a natural human response. You see and/ or try on a piece of jewellery –

Amberglow A radiant autumnal orange, Amberglow promotes self-confidence and creative self-expression. Melissa Kaye

and know instantly whether you “own” its style, look and colour. Pantone’s colour palette for autumn/winter 2020/2021 offers “a rich narrative, which

▲ Military Olive is a strong and stalwart foundational green tone. gem.app

highlights our desire for versatile, timeless

UE ◀ Almond Oil is a smooth and subtle off-white shade. Pinterest

becoming increasingly important to consumers prioritising value and functionality, our colour palette is stripped of excess,” says Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Colour Institute and founder of the Eiseman Centre for Colour Information and Training. She’s revered as “the international colour guru” and has spent her life studying human responses to different shades. “Imbued with strength and personality, colours for this season encourage our ongoing desire for unique self-expression through creative and unusual visual statements that stand out. Seasonal classics imbued with personality. Colours which encourage creativity as well as pragmatism,” says Eiseman. Port Elizabeth designer Jenni Gault believes we’ll see a lot more of Pantone’s palette for 2021 coming

Colours which encourage creativity as well as pragmatism.

through this winter. It plays an important role in her material selection, with citrine, platinum, crystals, grey pearls and silver littering her bench this season. Stepping beyond the duet of cooling grey and sunny yellow, Pantone colours tell of grounding us on farm and field, organic cycles, homemade pleasures, freshly baked bread, living plants,

◀ Sleet is a timeless grey that's dependable, solid and everlasting. Pinterest

wildflower meadows and worn finishes – with mineral yellow, dull gold, rose tan, tendril green, viola and parchment coming into play.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Pinterest

O KNOW

colour. Reflecting a 'less is more' mindset that’s


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◀ Constellation Astrale earrings in white and yellow gold set with yellow sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds; Lion Emblématique ring in yellow gold and platinum set with yellow sapphires and diamonds. Chanel

moment you enter a space, you’re inundated with the sense of the

Seasonal classics imbued with personality.

colours surrounding you. It’s the first thing you notice when you enter and the final message you take away when you leave.” Atiya Patel, jewellery designer for Mark Solomon Jewellers, comments: “From

Here, too, Gault’s jewellery

our perspective, colours of the season

box spans all manner of

include deep sage and khaki greens,

earthy tones: opals (blue

deep orange-yellow and mustard, blush and dusky pinks

sky), freshwater pearls

(these seem to be here to stay), chartreuse, classic greys

(perfect pale), smoky topaz

and neutrals, and even some light and powder blues.”

(downtown brown) and garnets (magma), among others. “Colour is the single most important contribution to establishing a mood,” says Eiseman. “From the

This opens up vast opportunities to play with green tourmaline, prasiolite, diamonds of all hues, morganite, lemon quartz, moonstone, pearls and aquamarine. “Yellow diamonds, in particular, seem to be sought after of late. Yellow gold for rings, earrings and chains has also seen a resurgence,” says Patel, noting that white diamonds set in white and yellow metals will remain a staple in any season. “Rose gold is still an ever-present request,” he adds. Let your jewellery be you, let its colours be you and let it talk to you! ▶ Vintage Kenneth Jay Lane earrings. House of Lavande

▲ Gold disc garnet drop earrings. Sydney Lynch

◀ Rose tan bangle for women. Kanbkam.com

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


Pendant Diamond 0.13ct 9ct white and rose gold R7 130.00

Ring Diamond 0.63ct 9ct white and rose gold R23 246.67

Earrings Diamond 0.09ct 9CT white and rose gold R6 146.75

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Balmain

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T

here’s nothing quiet about this season’s lookboard, where

designers “showcased a sense of optimism, joy and grandeur in their latest collections,” says Laura Lajiness of The Zoe Report (TZR). “From that, it’s evident that trends are taking a spirited turn, from the 21stcentury’s version of the Roaring ’20s, when extravagance reigned supreme, to all things ’80s, including striking colours and prints, as well as overstated… well… everything!” Here are some of our favourites from TZR:

COME IN Next-level hoops Designers have reimagined the popular earring with freshseason features like knife-edge detailing, elongated shapes and sculptural metal and twotone designs. Classic, chunky styles will continue to be key, both in yellow gold and silver. The more innovative the hoop design, the better; something organically shaped or extrabold is a sure winner. New chains In addition to heavy metal versions, designers are shaking

It’s not about hibernating at all this winter, but about being seen on the scene!

WITH THE BOLD JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


things up with mixed-media designs and new materials

Pinterest

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embracing black leather, chain links, rhinestones and matte black finishes. (See Out of Africa on p6.) ’80s eleganza The ’80s resurgence is still alive and well with piled-on pearls, dazzling

level of adornment comes

– and for winter 2021, a teen

rhinestones and, frequently,

with a Roaring ’20s twist

sensibility abounds. Layers

a combination of both. This

too: “When in doubt, more

of colourful beads and

over-the-top, bedecked

is more” is the mantra.

stretch bracelets, cutesy

Huge earrings Whether you’re newly fond of shoulders-up accents or have long cherished over-the-top pieces, long sculptural drops, artful danglers and super-sized door knockers are some

Farfetch

of the biggest earrings on

touches are just a few fun features. If nostalgia is your game, this cheerful trend is for you. Great lengths If razzle-dazzle rhinestones or large gold pieces don’t speak to you, shoulder-grazing

deck in the coming months.

earrings are another way to

Striking gold

jewellery. Variations run the

With a likeness to ’80s-era fashion á la Dynasty, bold gold jewellery is another glamorous trend. This is undoubtedly the time to indulge in over-the-top impulses, such as gemstoneadorned, oversized serpent earrings or heavyweight collar necklaces and chains.

▲ Marble pattern open geometric drop earrings. Shein

charms and playful lucite

dial up the drama with your gamut of every taste, from glimmering fringe designs to ornate bead- and pearladorned drops. Polished pendants Necklace layering is an art form beloved by many, but for a pared-back look, collections are ushering in singular polished pendants

Teen spirit

with a sculptural nature.

Y2K fashion is another

Wear them over knitwear

throwback drift continuing

or as a finishing touch to

to permeate the trend cycle

dresses with coats.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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◀ Diamond and enamel diamond full band ring, Graziela

WORDS BY KHWEZI MAKEBA

DIAMONDS

Earring, necklace, and brooch by Eva Fehren and rings by Ara Vartanian (pinky finger) and Eva Fehren (photography by David Roemer)

DIVINE D

▲ Signature marquise diamond button back ring. Jessica McCormack

iamonds are forever

They are all I need to please me They can stimulate and tease me

They won't leave in the night I've no fear that they might desert me . . . John Barry’s lyrics to Diamonds are Forever, performed by Shirley Bassey, certainly ring (pun intended!) true for many. And there are diamond delights which will enthral and excite you no end. Gender-free Blurring gender lines echoes what’s happening culturally right now. In diamonds, that translates to “live-in” jewels with androgynous designs that are ready to express whatever suits your personal Earrings by Nancy Newberg and necklace by Colette (photography by David Roemer)

style. Gender-free jewellery styles that present diamonds with a modern, edgy vibe are going mainstream for anyone.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


Garden of Eden A sparkling paradise of treasured gemstones, inspired by nature’s beauty and variety.

18ct Yellow Gold Claw Set Fancy Sapphire Ring Features a total of 1.37ct Sapphire. WAS R 49 990 NOW R 24 995 Nelson Mandela Square | +27 (0)11 883 6747 | Gateway Theatre of Shopping | +27 (0)31 566 2527 | info@bellagiojewellers.co.za | www.bellagiojewellers.co.za

@bellagio_jewellers

@BellagioLuxury


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Diamonds and pearls The combination of a sparkle-igniting diamond cut and lustrous pearl surface is pure magic. However, the classic pairing is refreshed this year because designers are amping up the contrast between the two by combining the seaborne gems with edgy diamond styles, including black stones. Finding your light and lustre is an absolute

▲ Classic tri-link antiquated ring. Hoorsenbuhs

delight with this duo. Heavy metal chains

◀ Confetti pearl and diamond drop earrings. Briony Raymond

Styled as statement pieces atop more casual clothing, chunky chains are the

▶ Lilith pavé diamond studded hinged hoop earrings. Black. Diaboli Kill

antithesis of the lightweight layered jewels which have been popular over the past few years. They’re modern, bold, easy and make for an instant wardrobe update. The ’90s rap artist style is back and better than ever. The new hoop Welcome to the diamond hoop earring renaissance,

The marquise-cut ring Classic marquise-cut diamonds are literally being turned on their sides, appealing to the unique and playful aesthetic of today’s brides. And when it comes to romance, you can’t beat the marquise cut’s love story: in 1745, King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond to be cut to reflect the lips of his chief mistress, Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, also known as the Marquise de Pompadour. More

where big statements,

than 250 years later, her

delicate huggies and

name is immortalised in

innovative edge all co-exist.

a diamond – and their

Glamorous, imaginative

great romance lives

and trendy styles can all be

on. When the stone

found in hoop-land. Some

is set east-west on a

designers are even taking

ring, they vividly evoke

liberties with the shape of

Antoinette’s pouty lips!

the silhouette. You could say they’re reinventing the wheel by adding arabesque motifs or turning the circle to the front of the lobe.

Ring by Kwiat.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

With acknowledgement to the 2021 Diamond Jewelry Trends Forecast by the Natural Diamond Council


Available in 9ct, 18ct & Platinum

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER

Eastgate Shopping Centre | Shop L55 | 47 Bradford Rd | Bedfordview sales@mervisjewellers.co.za | (011) 616 - 7504


Photography: K360 Business Solutions

083 659 2607 | karlien@karliendesigns.co.za | www.karliendesigns.co.za


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C-White Bioceramic by Swatch.

◀ Apple Watch SE 44mm silver aluminium case with white sport band – regular.

WHITES IN SHINING ARMOUR WORDS BY JASON AARONS

(OR CERAMIC, OR RESIN, OR . . . ) Elegant, clean and versatile, white watches are on form this winter

S

ome colours are far more popular than others in the world of

watches. Black is always a favourite, green – which we showcased in Issue 2 – is still trending, while blue has seen headline days too. But white has arrived and if you thought it was cool – literally – in summer, it’s even hotter

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

▲ Chrono silver “steel” unisex watch by Kapten & Son. ◀ One of the latest G-SQUAD additions to Casio’s GBA-900 Series of Smartphone Link timepieces. James Ralph – official distributor of Casio products in southern Africa.


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Pavane Petite Silicone White, Silver Colour. Cluse.

▶ ICE solar power Polar mesh by Ice-Watch. ▼ Rado Diamaster from Mervis Brothers.

▲ Diesel men’s double-down white round silicone watch. ▼ Superdry urban Kanji with white silicone strap from Bella Luna Watch & Jewellery Boutique.

for winter! Crisp and sharp, an ideal colour pop in your traditional winter wardrobe, offering stylish contrasts with deeper hues, white watches are dialling it up from their straps – and you don’t need an Arctic expedition to find them on our home ground soil, either. These are a few picks which really caught our eye. All the brands are available from stockists in South Africa. ◀ Ultra-slim diamond. Rotary ▼ Women's Michael Kors Averi white leather strap watch. Michael Kors

Crisp and sharp, an ideal colour pop in your traditional winter wardrobe.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


EQB-1000AT-1A R19,999

ECB-10AT-1A R8,999

EFS-S590AT-1A R11,999

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Phone us on 011 314 8888, 0861 CASIO1 or 0861 318 888 for your nearest dealer. www.jamesralph.com. SPECIFICATIONS AND PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE

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I

f there's one day you should feel like royalty, it's your wedding day

– and JZA is certainly one beautiful way to help you do just that.

BRIDES & THE

Walk down the aisle with JZA

WORDS BY AMAHLE JALI

BEAUTIFU JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


UL

Ricci Goldstein Photography

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While we face ever-changing adjusted lockdown levels in South Africa, planning your bridal accessory lookbook is essential – and fun too. So, whether you’re searching for a jewellery gift for the bride, the groom or yourself, walk down the aisle with us . . . I  you We’re definitely all heart with this bridal choice. The universal symbol of love is being reimagined by many jewellery designers with empowering freshness, Designs are more expressive, less traditional and driven by trends in fashion and colour. Drop earrings Tried, true and timeless… you’re not walking down the aisle with bare lobes! Plus, every wedding dress needs them. Drop earrings come in so many designs that there’s something for everyone – and what’s great is that you don't need to wear them only at your wedding. These jewellery pieces look ultra-stylish when paired with jeans, a favourite everyday top or that little black number.

▲ Happy hearts flowers ring. Rose gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl. Chopard ◀ Diamond drop earrings, Narayan Jewellers. Ketan & Jatin Chokshi ▼ L'Amour 9K gold garnet ring. Pascale Monvoisin. Net-a-Porter

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28 ◀ 14K rose gold fancy sapphire and diamond bracelet. Bellagio

Sleek bracelets A sleek bracelet can add just the right amount of sparkle to your bridal look and

◀ 18K white gold bracelet with 2,71ct natural white diamonds. Bare Fine Jewellery

tennis bracelets are becoming a popular choice. Tip: Wear your bracelet on your right hand so that its beauty doesn’t detract attention from your gorgeous new wedding ring! Now, “hair” ye all! There are many exciting ways to create crowning glory for your bridal hair look. Highlights of the season are hair accessories from handcrafted wreaths, vines, hair combs, crowns, tiaras, veil combs, lace hairpieces, floral combs, clips and hairpins – and all are making heads turn. ▶ Serenity flower hair comb. Brides.com ▼ Solid pill hair cuff. Deborah Pagani

Astria hair pin set. BHLDN

Colourful designs The Gemological Institute

We’re seeing a lot of fun costume jewellery come into the mix.

of America observed: “With coloured gemstones, you can add more depth of meaning to the engagement ring. You could include your birthstone and your partner’s birthstone, alone or with diamonds. Coloured gems also come with historic symbolism and you could pick one that inspires you.”

▲ Original seven ombre: Seven 5x3mm oval natural gemstones, set in shared claws, in the metal of your choice. Janine Binneman

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P U R E

H O N E Y M O O N

M A G I C

Combining luxury and location O’Two is a haven of understated elegance and panache, perfectly situated on Mouille Point’s trendy Platinum Mile and THE most magical location for your honeymoon adventure. Room options ranging from spacious king rooms to penthouse suites, effortlessly set the stage for an extraordinary celebration of your marriage. O’Two is the ideal space to unwind and leave all your your wedding planning and stress behind you. Set just metres from the ocean and offering spectacular views of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Cape Town Stadium. Nearby attractions such as the V&A Waterfront, one of Cape Town’s most famous shopping and dining destinations adds to O’Two’s prime location, surrounded by the city’s most popular sights and stunning natural beauty. O’Two - where meticulous attention to detail and personalised service reign supreme.

+27 (0)21 180 4433 reception@otwo.co.za www.otwo.co.za

Click HERE to book your honeymoon and all your other life adventures together, NOW!


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Like a human fingerprint, every diamond has certain unique distinguishing characteristics

De Beers Jewellers

De Beers Jewellers

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

S

electing your dream engagement ring is one of the most significant purchases you'll ever make. So take a few minutes to study the four Cs – cut, clarity, colour and carat – of diamonds and become an

informed engagement ring shopper.

The cut of a diamond is often

Cut

considered one of its most important qualities. If a diamond is cut poorly, it will appear dull even if it has a high colour and clarity grade. If a diamond is cut well, it will reflect and refract light for maximum brightness and sparkle. A diamond’s cut refers to the quality of each tiny surface, called a facet. A well-cut diamond will have carefully crafted and positioned facets in areas known as the crown, girdle and pavilion. The facets are polished to sizes and angles with mathematical precision, in order to maximise the diamond’s ability to reflect and return light to the viewer. This is described as a diamond’s “life”.

Natural diamonds also occur in shades of blue, green, yelloworange, pink, red and even black.

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Almost all diamonds

Clarity

display tiny “birthmarks”,

A diamond’s colour is valued by its

called inclusions, which

absence – a perfectly structured

occur naturally when

diamond is completely clear. But

diamonds were formed deep within the earth and external characteristics called “blemishes”. They're nature’s fingerprints and

because colourless diamonds naturally develop in slightly different shades, a grading scale from D to Z is used to show whether a diamond is truly

give each diamond its

colourless (D) or off-white (Z). The

unique character. The

differences between colour grades

closer a diamond is to

are very subtle. Grading is done

being pure, the rarer it

under controlled lighting and in

is and the higher the grade, therefore the greater the value.

precise conditions for comparison and accuracy. Natural diamonds also occur in shades of blue, green, yellow-orange, pink, red and even black. Known as “fancy colour diamonds”, the more intense

Colour

Carat weight

the colour, the rarer and more valuable the diamond.

In the ancient world, carob seeds were used as a reference for the weight of a diamond. Our methods for weighing diamonds have

become much more precise since then – today we measure a diamond’s weight in carats (one

DID YOU KNOW? The word “diamond” derives from the Greek

carat being equal to 0,2g). The diamond’s weight is then divided into 100 points. This means that a half-carat, or 0,50ct diamond, is also known as a 50-point diamond.

word “adamas”, which

Carat is often mistaken for being a measure of size,

means “invincible” or

but it’s actually a measure of weight. The greater a

“indestructible”.

diamond’s weight, the greater its rarity.

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Hexagonal Explore the geometric lines of this shape, which is perfect for a striking engagement ring design.

Heart With its graceful curves, this heartshaped diamond is a romantic choice. It’s similar to the pear-shaped diamond, but with a cleft at the top.

▶ Ritani Vintage. Glamour

▶ Messika. The Jewellery Editor

GI

Oval diamond This rounded, oblong, polished shape is like an elongated round, brilliant cut.

A

Radiant This cut offers the shape of an emerald cut, with the fire and radiance of a brilliant cut.

Harry Winston

GI A

A

In a quandary about what diamond shapes exist and which one to choose? Look no further.

Asscher The Asscher cut coincided with the early 20thcentury birth of the Art Deco movement. It’s a square emerald cut, with understated classic beauty and strong brilliance.

Pear Also known as the teardrop, this shape is like a marquise with a round, brilliant diamond.

Round, brilliant diamond One of the most popular diamond shapes for its intense, brilliant sparkle and contrast.

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T hel ma W

T i f f a ny

&C

o

es t

ell

SHAPE UP GI

Marquise Dating back to 18th-century France, this cut has a striking, slender shape, characterised by two sharp points on either end.

Ru

ss

ler

Sorellina

L iz

M and z ie

Emerald For a classic choice, this cut is the embodiment of glamour and eye-catching depth. It features an elongated, rectangular shape and step-cut facets.

S te p

hen

Cushion-cut diamond This cut has a square or rectangular outline, but with a rounded corner giving it a “pillow-cut” shape. A true vintage cut that's transcended trends, it remains a popular choice for engagement rings.

Princess Angular and modern, this cut has impressive fire and brilliance in a geometric shape. It’s a square version of the round brilliant cut, with numerous sparkling facets.


The Antique Jewellery Company

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T

SOMETHING OLD he old English tradition that a bride wears “something old,

something new, something borrowed, something blue” on her wedding day was intended to bring her luck in her marriage. Today, a bride likes to interpret this custom

Art Deco jewellery can add drama and elegance to your bridal ensemble.

in her own unique way, often

F.co m

▲ Vintage brooch with pearl and coloured diamonds isolated on white.

For many brides, vintage jewellery is the perfect

through distinctive choices in wedding jewellery.

123 R

“something old”, especially with the rise in popularity of early 20th-century jewellery designs. The romantic look of “garland-style” jewellery from the Edwardian era makes it well suited for a wedding day, while Art Deco jewellery can add drama and elegance to your bridal ensemble. Many jewellers have a selection of vintage or antique pieces to choose from, or you can find an antique dealer or a jeweller who specialises in estate jewellery. Be sure to review

▲ Edwardian 18K gold and platinum, opal and diamond flower cluster ring. The Antique Jewellery Company

GIA’s Tips on how to shop for estate jewellery before you purchase.

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◀ Fire opal earrings. Cellini

SOMETHING

NEW

Something new – tattoos! With your choice of bracelets, of course. Pinterest

▼ Possession open bangle bracelet in 18K rose gold decorated with two carnelian cabochons. Piaget

H

ow about a piece of jewellery that can be worn beyond your wedding day? Incorporating colour is a major

trend in both wedding and everyday jewellery and can add that desired touch of drama. Red, the colour of passion, is a natural choice for a wedding, while ruby, red spinel or fire opal lend an intense touch. If your gown is simple, consider a statement necklace such as a choker or collar-style neckband featuring coloured gems. If your hair will be in an updo,

A pop of colour can add that desired touch of drama. ▲ Red milkwood leaf cluster brooch/wristpiece, Bronze. Nick Bladen Bottanicals

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chandelier earrings are an exciting alternative. When going for dramatic impact, select only one larger piece to wear, rather than many. For more colour inspirations, see page 11.


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◀ Borrow your grandfather's watch and attach it to the bouquet. Weddingomania ◀ 1800s antique Victorian button locket. Flickr

SOMETHING

BORROWED B

orrowed jewellery can add an element of nostalgia and is

also a way of incorporating family connections into your wedding ensemble.

Gratitude never goes out of style!

Look to your grandmother, mother or elder sister for an heirloom piece. Perhaps there’s a pearl necklace in the family. If not, consider renting jewellery for your special day from your jeweller. And remember, when borrowing jewellery, be sure to return it with a ▲ Borrow from your grandma's and mother's brooch collections and make up a bouquet! Just think twice about tossing it! Weddingomania

▲ Victorian 1890 diamond brooch. Vela NYC

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handwritten note. Gratitude never goes out of style!


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W

▶ Sapphire full Spira ring. Lily Gabriella

hether your style is extravagant or simple, there's a

variety of blue gemstones to choose from. For a subtle look, try a small pair of blue ▲ Tanzanite and diamond marquise pendant. Mervis Brothers Jewellers

tourmaline earrings. Consider a brooch (yes, a brooch!) with an aquamarine or blue topaz. And, of course, there’s beautiful tanzanite too. Try pinning a brooch in your hair, onto your bouquet or even tucked away on your garter.

SOMETHING

BLUE

One of the most popular blue stones is sapphire. The famous, oversized sapphire engagement ring of Kate Middleton (now the Duchess of Cambridge) – once worn by her late mother-in-law, Princess Diana – continues to inspire jewellery designs that can make you feel like royalty on your wedding day. And why not? After all, every bride deserves to be a queen! With thanks and appreciation to the GIA

▲ Bangle with sapphires. Kwiat

▲ 14K gold birthstone ring. Shahla Karimi

▲ Blue sapphire earrings. Nouvel Heritage ▲ Scatter swirl ear jackets. Ananya

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All rings bright and beautiful. True blue. Be you.

Diamond, precious and semi-precious gemstone and jewellery certification. +27 11 334 4527 / services@egl.co.za / www.egl.co.za


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F

rom beautiful, enchanted garden weddings and romantic beach settings to bundu celebrations and fabulous indoor halls, there’s no location

where pearls will fail to add magic to your special day.

THE OYSTER

B X A parade of pearls will always shine through

◀ Pearl cluster ring in 18K yellow gold with white seed pearls and moonstones. Sweet Pea Jewellery

▲ Three-row black South Sea cultured pearl bracelet. Mikimoto

Not only do they look wonderful paired with any style of wedding dress, but pearls convey an air of elegance, simplicity and purity, while representing love, dedication and commitment. Thanks to their natural size and texture, pearls are an incredibly versatile stone for jewellers to work with. And if classic creamy white pearls aren’t your style and your preference is for something a little more contemporary or über-edgy, pearls naturally come in a variety of colours. Black, grey

Alighieri Bride Collection. Alighieri

and silver are popular, but the palette of pearl colours extends to every hue. Shades vary from typically pink (sometimes called rosé)

▲ 11-stone 3mm Baroque pink pearl earrings, chrysoprase. Maviada

▶ World of Creativity bracelet. Mikimoto

▶ Alighieri Calliope gold-plated pearl earrings. Farfetch

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to green, purple or blue.


go for gold

www.brescodiamonds.co.za


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▶ Tiffany & Co’s first men’s engagement ring – the Charles Tiffany Setting.

Mengagement rings are here – in a big way

BE A

RINGLEADER De Beers

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

A

re diamonds really only a girl’s best friend? Not at all. It’s 2021 – and we’re thankfully realising that you don’t need to be a certain

gender to propose or be proposed to. And while they aren’t for everyone, mengagement rings offer variety and a public display of devotion for the modern fiancé or bridegroom. The trend’s being highlighted even more by Tiffany & Co’s début of its mengagement and male wedding ring range. Its intention was to offer products in support of love and inclusivity, while “paving the way for new traditions to celebrate our unique love stories and honour our most cherished commitments to one another”. Mengagement rings signal a modern and bold departure from the traditional wedding band and offer a multitude of design iterations using varied materials, gems and finishes. Many of our own homegrown South African designers and jewellery retailers have always had a wide selection of men’s rings, as well as custom design services, for men to make a statement about themselves. ◀ Mokume bat ring in champagne Mokume and rose gold with a round diamond solitaire. Krikawa Jewellery

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STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY AFFORDABLE PRICES GUARANTEED QUALITY

Artform

by Mizane Jeweery

The future of jewellery design Custom made dress jewellery

Mizane Jeweery

Manufacturers of moissanite, coloured stone and diamond jewellery Specialising in engagement and eternity rings Custom designs available CONTACT US TO SET UP AN APPOINTMENT

Contact: Ken Brandt | 076 049 9457 or 011 485 3784 | www.mizanejewellery.co.za



▶ Evil eye medallion necklace. Maison Miru

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MEDALLION

◀ Scorpio Zodiac coin pendant in 18K rose gold with diamond frame. Anita Ko

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

M

MAGIC

edallions are upping the ante this year and what’s great about them is that they can be worn

alone or layered with other necklaces for maximum impact. They work well with

A beautiful way to wear jewellery with inherent meaning

almost any outfit, in any season – and winter’s no exception. Historically, the Greco-Romans wore medallion necklaces as status symbols, often with gold coins as pendants to showcase their wealth. Even today, gold, silver and platinum medallions are regarded as investment jewellery, whether kept purely for personal enjoyment or as Misho Designs

bold and elegant fashion statements. “There’s no Pythagorean theorem for the perfect number of gold coins or medallions on a necklace, or for how many such necklaces to wear at once, or to keep in your jewellery box,” says Daisy Shaw-Ellis of Vogue. “And as jewellery goes, the desire for personal stories embedded in them

Multiples Layering several medallions on one necklace is a wonderful way to build a jewellery story. The more-is-more approach often works well. Symbols

continues to increase.”

Let the world know your star sign by

Singular statements A bold single medallion on a chain is an impactful way to embrace this style of

wearing it prominently, either through its symbol or its constellation.

necklace, be it with something personal,

Remember, there’s no right or wrong here.

like your child’s birthstone, or a piece that’s

At the end of the day, your medallion choices

more symbolic, like an evil eye.

only need to match your personal style!

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WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

JZA chats to Natasha Swart - homegrown jewellery designer and SA Jewellery Week 2021 finalist

SOUTH PROUDLY AFRI My hope is to make the wearer feel intimately connected to nature.

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N

atasha Swart is a name that we just know we’re going to

keep hearing more and more of. A finalist in SA Jewellery Week 2021 – a platform for showcasing jewellery made by South Africans – her brand, “Natasha Swart Creations” is a head-turner. Tell us about your background. I was born in Hoedspruit, a small town in the heart of the bushveld. I studied pharmacy, qualified in 2007 and, in 2010, moved to Cape Town to work in the pharmaceutical industry. It was there that I started exploring my deep-seated

H ICAN

creativity – something that had always stimulated me, but not been refined. After realising my passion for jewellery design, I enrolled to study jewellery design and manufacture at the Ruth Prowse School of Art in 2017. What makes your designs unique? I get very nostalgic when I walk around and design from nature, choosing the flowers I want to cast or draw and then create into a wearable piece of jewellery. My hope is to make the wearer feel intimately connected to nature and realise that one can be both fragile and steadfast, no matter what life hands one. I feel the same nostalgia and appreciation when I look at famous paintings. As someone who loves drawing and painting, I can’t help wondering how the artist felt, why they chose the mediums they used and what times they lived in when they created what they did.

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I recreate nature and the artist’s work into my own style and memory. Can you talk us through the process of design and making? While camping and on hikes, I find inspiration from the colours and novel shapes of fynbos, especially how delicate, yet tough these plants really

It's almost like arranging a bouquet of flowers, but one that will last a lifetime.

are. I experiment by casting

Where do you find

them and creating small

inspiration? My jewellery

pieces of art directly from

has always been inspired by nature. My pieces are

nature. I love to sit with

whimsical and reminiscent of my childhood spent

them before I cast them.

outdoors in a garden fantasy world, co-created with my

Afterwards, I play around

grandma, Ouma Joey.

to see what combination works best and whether I should create a ring, pendant, brooch or hairpin.

My art range is inspired by the great artists. I love to sit and do abstract line drawings of famous pieces and then pierce them out. With Vermeer’s The Girl With a Pearl Earring, Frida Kahlo’s works and Tretchikoff-inspired pieces, I added colourful, semi-precious beads and freshwater pearls that complement the colours used in the paintings. What do you enjoy most about your work? Being able to create a memory or piece of nature into something tangible to wear. I find nothing more artistically expressive than wearing flowers in one’s hair or ears and around one’s neck. If you could pick anyone to wear your jewellery, who would it be? Kenyan-American actress and author Lupita Nyong’o. What does the future hold? I'm very excited about the future. I hope to do collaborations, exhibit my jewellery and sell at markets like Kamers/ Makers. One of my dreams is to make flower crowns and bold statement pieces for a fashion show or a special occasion that we celebrate, like Garden Day.

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online store coming soon ear curation | gold and diamonds | custom design | 082 772 5392 | @my_peach_jewels (Instagram) | www.mypeach.co.za


Solitaire Magazine

@solitairemagazine


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JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

GLOBAL

CONNECT It’s your online jewellery passport to new designs, gorgeous gems and captivating collections. WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

Kuwaiti label Lulwa Fine Jewelry’s Regal collection features daily wearables. Designer Lulwa Al Wazzan’s love of both geometry and nature is translated into the new pendant necklaces, rings and earrings in minimalist floral patterns. The Regal collection, crafted in white gold, features mixed-cut rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds.

In a pandemic-ridden world, colour brings a feeling of hope. Los Angeles native Suzanne Felsen’s jewellery is all about hues, shape and proportion and her new fire opal rings turn up the heat, in good measure. Set in yellow gold, the richness of the marquise-cut fire opal ring is contrasted with the serenity exuded by a pair of emerald-cut peridots.

Liv Luttrell has been making original and bespoke fine jewellery since the launch of her eponymous line in 2016. Her sculptural creations are made from responsibly sourced materials, including precious metals and gems. This contemporary jeweller has unveiled two new yellow gold editions – the curved forms ring and the paravent ear pendants. The sculptural design of the ring is informed by two curved forms arching over the finger. Using a gentle satin sheen – hand-engraved in the Florentine style – and deeply engraved organic texture

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Chicago-based designer Graziela Kaufman recently launched her men’s collection comprising bracelets, necklaces, rings and cufflinks crafted in sterling silver. When she started designing the collection about two years ago, the idea was to create pieces that were versatile, comfortable, cool and affordable. The collection is set with onyx, malachite, lapis lazuli and turquoise, among others. The new men’s line includes 25 designs with stone and colour variations.

Architect, interior designer and jewellery designer Rosa Van Parys inevitably gravitates towards symmetry, balance and composition when dreaming up cool, gem-encrusted wearables. She also makes pearls edgy and fun.

Update your hoop collection with New Yorker Noor Shamma’s signature Luz U-hoops. Clean lines and geometric designs inform her namesake fine jewellery brand. Reminiscent of a bridge in suspension, the Luz U-hoops are handmade from conflict-free and recycled 18K gold. The design is a nod to architectural elements and geometric patterns.

The Giselle gold danglers feature Australian pearls and classic white diamond hoops. The Giselle earrings are interchangeable – the hoops can be worn by themselves, while the danglers can be used as pendants with any necklace from the RVP collection.

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Katherine Jetter has channeled her love of pearls and coloured gems into her Tik Tok collection, a capsule line comprising earrings. “I named the line Tik Tok because of the movement of the earrings. They have a backand-forth swing to them like the pendulum in a clock. The movement makes them modern and fun,” says Jetter. The newest styles feature Muzo emeralds, rhodolite garnet and tanzanite. “I do them in a number of colour combinations – Muzo emeralds with Tahitian pearls, tanzanites with Tahitian pearls, pink opal with moonstone, or garnets with Tahitian pearls,” she explains. Most of the earrings are set in 18K darkened white gold, which modernises the style and serves as a beautiful backdrop for the grey pearls.

London-based Samira Jafari is a promising talent who specialises in commissioned works and one-off pieces. The chunky Galaxy ring represents the “endless enigma of the Milky Way”, while the Starburst earrings are informed by the timeless and old design motif, the sunburst. “What I love about these untreated, unheated natural sapphire crystals is their free-form, organic look,” says Jafari.

Milanese designer Bea Bongiasca’s latest tryst with Pop Art codes has resulted in the peppy Flower Funk collection. Her new offering includes chunky floral disco rings in 9K gold. “In my previous collection, the rings were quite small, so I felt a need to make these chunkier and more voluminous rings that are also, in my opinion, more unisex than some of the previous ones,” says Bongiasca. The floral disco rings, in bright pops of enamel, feature a blossom pattern and are set with square-cut gems.

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With mindsets changing continually about aesthetics and identity, a more considered approach to consumption draws us to meaningful purchases. Forevermark’s new sculptural twist designs offer a fresh take on diamond wearables with its mixedcut gem palette comprising round brilliant, marquise and baguette natural diamonds. “Twist & Shine showcases life’s unexpected moments that require us to be agile, but they can also be the catalyst for great new things,” says Federica Imperiali, Head of New Product Development at Forevermark. The brand harnesses the “versatility of diamonds – in their cuts and the ways they’re set – to translate this concept”.

The present zeitgeist of quarantines and social distancing inspired Lori Friedman of Loriann Jewelry to add colour to her popular Confetti collection. She revisited the line using baguette-cut sapphires in various shades, set alongside moonstones and diamonds, to add sparkle to the earrings, pendants and rings. Thematic creations embrace a positive and celebratory outlook on life. “I’ve always been inspired by the shapes and colours of gemstones. When I began designing with baguettes, I wanted to mimic the linear look in my pieces, creating jewellery that’s fun, festive – and meant for everyday wear.”

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Berlin-based Alina Abegg has always been fascinated by the colours and shapes of candy. As a child, one of her favourites was Austrian Pez candy and its cute manual dispensers. Handcut peridots, pink opals, yellow agates, lavender chalcedony and rubellites adorn Sugar High, the latest line that references sweet memories. Her delicious offerings include liquorice and Pez-inspired hoop earrings, linear danglers, pendants, studs and rings.


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Alice Pierre, founded by siblings Alice and Pierre Basteguian, focuses on creating 14K jewellery at attainable price points. The designs, explains Alice, are heavily inspired by three main elements: Art Deco architecture, art and her personal heirloom collection. “I love nostalgic associations with heirloom pieces,” she says. The Los Angeles-based brand’s Disco collection draws references from the Sunrise painting by American pop artist Roy Lichtenstein. “I love the strong, bold lines, but there’s also a sense of warmth and comfort,” says Alice. The textured finish or diamond cut on the round gold plates “brings out the beautiful dimensions of gold” as grooves emanate outwards from the central point to resemble the rays of a star. “When it’s worn, light is caught on the tiny ridges, like a shimmering, incorporeal dance party,” she adds.

Greek designer Alexia Gryllaki’s new One-of-a-Stone fine jewellery collection is miniature art in a mixture of soft and bright hues informed by the magnificent pastel tones in Claude Monet’s Impressionist works and the vibrant hues in Gerhard Richter’s abstract art. “I wanted to create little wearable paintings, where gold is the canvas, gemstones are the paint and the colours resemble the ones found in modern and post-modern art,” says Gryllaki. Over the next few months, she plans to add new designs to her line, which includes limited-edition pieces.

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Maillon de Cartier watch in 18K pink gold – the crown and bezel are set with brilliant-cut diamonds and have a quartz movement.

I

t’s impossible not to fall in love with the new Maillon de Cartier. The design is part watch and part jewellery, and the chain-link bracelet references

Cartier’s classic codes. It's available in versions of yellow, rose and white gold with plain bracelets or diamond-sprinkled ones. The limited-edition diamond watch in white gold (20 pieces) features a more generous sprinkling of diamonds and is adorned with tsavorites and lacquer, while the yellow gold model (50 pieces) has a black lacquer dial. Piaget’s new Limelight Gala channels the spirit of the ’60s with elegant curves, cambered case and asymmetrical lugs. Hundreds of gold links are tightly assembled and soldered to shape the pliant bracelet. Said bracelet is in white gold,

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has a translucent blue enamel dial and is embellished with a handengraved “palace” decoration. Swirls of diamonds and sapphires add to its brilliance. Parmigiani Fleurier presents its latest offering, the Tonda 1950 Flying Tourbillon Double Rainbow watch. The dial, set with white diamonds and an aventurine crescent, is hemmed in by a rainbow of coloured stones. Its rose gold bezel – also surrounded by a slim line of rainbow-coloured gemstones – adds to the spectacular effect. The Arceau Harnais Français remix limited-edition timepiece has a diamond-framed white gold case that displays an engraved and hand-painted porcelain dial, featuring horses caparisoned and

MAKE EVERY SECOND

topped with multi-coloured feathers. Produced in a limited and numbered series of 24, the new Hermès timepiece is fitted with the H1912 mechanical self-winding movement and has pop of colour in the form of a raspberry alligator leather strap.

SPARKLE WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

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▼ KIKI COLLECTION Polymer clay earrings. www.instagram.com/kikicollection_sa

▲ NICOLE JORDAN DESIGNER JEWELLERY “Gracefully manufactured by hand and infused with love.” www.njdesign.co.za

▲ IMPILO COLLECTION Simple emerald-cut tanzanite and shine with 18K white gold. www.impilocollection.co.za

▲ GALAXY Africa black bracelet watch. www.galaxyandco.co.za

RETAIL THERAPY ▲ ARTIS AERIS STUDIO Artisan pendant handcrafted from copper. Instagram: @artis_aeris_jewelry Facebook: Artis-AerisStudio-101142214673908 ◀ GEM MUSE Teardrop and oval laborite rings. www.instagram.com/gem.muse

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▲ ORA JEWELLERY Mexican skull ring. www.orajewellery.com


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▲ LASHONGWE DESIGNERS "Almasi" which means "diamond" in Kiswahili, is a new addition to the Mahlangu collection. www.lashongwedesigners.co.za

▲ MIGLIO DESIGNER JEWELLERY Bold and textured burnished silver cuff finished with fuchsia, Indian red and amethyst Swarovski crystals. www.shopmiglio.com ▶ TINSEL GALLERY Silver portrait earrings. Geraldine Fenn www.tinselgallery.com

Whether it’s rain or whether it’s snow, there’s always time to retail therapy and go! From modern and contemporary pieces to classic and traditional, JZA’s team has put together a homegrown selection to enchant, inspire and make your own. So make this season your “beautiful buy that came in from the cold”!

▲ PHATSIMA Sterling silver necklace with pear-cut emerald green and white round cubic zirconia stones. www.phatsimajd.com

▶ LOVED BY ELLI JEWELLERY A solid brass pendant on a 40 cm sterling silver chain. www.lovedbyelli.com ◀ NANETTE VELDSMAN Friends earrings in red. Sterling silver stud earrings with cold enamel. From the Walter Battiss Collection – a collaboration between Nanette and the Walter Battiss Company. www.bynanette.com

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


BE ON-TREND. ADVERTISE IN

Contact Jenny Justus (Director: Brand Strategy) on tel: 082 450 6052 or e-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za


59

THE MAGIC OF THE

ANIMALS OF KAMELEONA

When jewellery meets nature, it’s more than just inspiration for this brand – it’s a cause

WORDS BY SMITHA

reflected on memories featuring wildlife and birds. Sadly,

SADANANDAN

our design team of four had only a few choices. As human

W

hat Terzihan is selling to benefit animals

beings, we should understand nature and wild animals better. They’re our companions in this world and they deserve our care and protection instead of our fear and anger. So we wanted to design pieces representing at least

The animal kingdom has

one animal from the sea, one from the soil and a bird. In

inspired Terzihan’s latest line

the end, we ended up with a very nice and diverse group of

of pendants.

animals,” says Cem Terzihan, Creative Director of the Turkish

The animals of Kameleona

fine jewellery brand.

take on adorable shapes this

The limited-edition medallions come with a cause;

season in medallions. The

all proceeds from the sales will be donated to animal

new pieces are an extension

charities. “We selected the five charities that we thought

of the Kameleona series,

had the greatest synergy with the animals featured in the

comprising five animal- and

collection: Pandas International, the Hummingbird Society,

bird-inspired designs made

the British Deer Foundation, National Fox Welfare and

in editions of three.

the Fresh Water Habitats Trust. The charities have a direct

“When we first decided to look for animal inspiration for a new collection, we

impact on the animals that inspired us,” adds Terzihan. ▲ Classy goldfish medallion; emerald humming bird medallion; golden deer medallion and grumpy panda medallion.

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◀ Butterfly brooch by JAR, 1987 – Montana sapphires, diamonds, silver, platinum and gold.

Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom

S

mitha Sadanandan, our Editor-at-Large,

CREATURE

20th-century jewellery,

FEATURE

as well as the founder of

Animal Kingdom (Rizzoli Electa), depicts some of the most

online jewellery magazine

spectacular beasts transformed into sparkling treasures.

The Adventurine. Her new

She tells us more about the endearing stories behind the

book, Beautiful Creatures:

individual pieces, their colourful histories and the fascinating

Jewelry Inspired by the

symbolism of these “remarkable creatures in precious gems”.

catches up with

Marion Fasel, jewellery historian and the author of eight other books on

The idea for the book – particularly in association with the American Museum of Natural History – came from Fasel being invited to guest-curate the exhibition, scheduled to coincide with the museum’s 150th anniversary and the opening of the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals. “With those celebrations in mind and all my visits to the museum, walking past the famous dioramas filled with animals, I had the idea for the animal theme. I thought gem-set animals made over the past 150 years would be a nice way of paying tribute to the museum’s anniversary and the gems in the jewels would be a tribute to the Mignone halls,” says Fasel. ◀ Flamingo brooch by Cartier Paris, 1940 – diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, citrine, platinum and gold. Formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor.

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The supply of gems and metals was interrupted during World War II and the occupation of Paris. Mellerio worked around the issue by using enamel. The piece is far more sculptural than most jewels made during the Art Nouveau era, when enamel experienced a renaissance. The motif of a bird could be found Images courtesy of Beautiful Creatures, Rizzoli Electa in association with the American Museum of Natural History

throughout jewellery collections in Paris during the period. Birds were a subtle symbol of hope

◀ Crocodile necklace by Cartier Paris (1975) – yellow diamonds, emeralds, rubies (eyes) and gold. Formerly in the collection of María Félix.

and liberation. “In the Water section, I adore the Verdura scallop shell brooches. The designer, Fulco

The content in the book is divided into

di Verdura, bought the shells from the gift

Air, Water and Land (rather like Sir David

shop at the American Museum of Natural

Attenborough’s wildlife series, Blue

History. At his Fifth Avenue studio, he had

Planet, Planet Earth and Life). The author

craftsmen mount tendrils of gold and

elaborates on which beautiful creatures

gems into the shells. The precious parts

charmed her the most in the three

were intended to look like waves receding

categories, their relevance in history and the

from the surface.

artistry that held the greatest fascination.

“In the Land section, I’m very fond of the

“In the Air section, I’m in awe of the Mellerio

late 19th-century emerald and diamond

plique-à-jour enamel bird brooch made

snake bracelet. A lot of beautiful snake

in about 1940. It’s the perfect example of

bracelets were made during the period,

the old adage, ‘necessity is the mother of invention’.

but I’ve never seen anything quite like this one with the emeralds. I love the movement in the design, the way it swirls around the wrist and the symbolism of snakes is wonderful. They represent eternal love and wisdom,” enthuses Fasel. With acknowledgement to Solitaire magazine – JZA’s media alliance partner for the Asia-Pacific region – where the full interview with Marion Fasel was published. Click here to read.

◀ The Waltz of Fighting Fish brooch by Stephen Webster, 2019 – Santa Maria aquamarine, black spinels, black sapphires, blue sapphires, diamonds and titanium.

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FEATURED Issue 3 Brand Supporters

Bellagio Jewellers www.bellagiojewellers.co.za info@bellagiojewellers.co.za Nelson Mandela Square: +27 (0)11 883 6747 Gateway Theatre of Shopping: +27 (0)31 566 2527 Bresco Diamonds www.brescodiamonds.co.za info@brescodiamonds.co.za +27 (0)12 998 3150

Mervis Brothers Jewellers www.mervis.co.za sales@mervisjewellers.co.za +27 (0)11 616 7504 Mizane Jewellery www.mizanejewellery.co.za info@mizanejewellery.co.za +27 (0)11 640 5026/+27 (0)11 485 3784 Moon Investments www.mooninvest.co.za invest@mooninvest.co.za +27 (0)21 551 2066

EGL South Africa www.egl.co.za services@egl.co.za +27 (0)11 334 4527 Gerhard Moolman Fine Jewellery www.gmfinejewellery.co.za info@finejewellery.co.za +27 (0)21 914 0838

My Peach www.mypeach.co.za Instagram: my_peach_jewels Facebook: My Peach +27 (0)82 772 5392

Ilifa Collective www.ilifacollective.com kvermeulen@legacygroup.co.za +27 (0)79 590 5458

O’Two Hotel Cape Town www.otwo.co.za reception@otwo.co.za +27 (0)21 180 4433

Isabella Design Jewellers www.isabella-refiners.co.za info@isabella-refiners.co.za +27 (0)76 303 2999

Solitaire Magazine www.solitairemagazine.co.za subscription@media-group.com +65 6446 6888

Karlien Designs www.karliendesigns.co.za karlien@karliendesigns.co.za +27 (0)83 659 2607

The Gift Guide www.giftguide.co.za hello@giftguide.co.za +27 (0)84 222 1935

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South African designer Jane Merrifield from Tuesday’s Child Jewellery is an avid Art Deco lover, as is her client for whom this incredible piece

PIÈCE DE

was designed. Made in sterling silver with the opal as the main stone, with black resin and marcasites.

RÉSISTANCE pièce de ré·​sis·​tance an outstanding item or event : SHOWPIECE JZA YOUR JZA YOUR JEWELLERY JEWELLERY MAGAZINE MAGAZINE



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