SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • June 2018

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Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News JUNE 2018

SA

Watch & Clock Supplement 2018

Sipho Zwane

JCSA roadshows 2018 to take place during June and July

South African Mint honours Mandela’s legacy WFDB and IDMA announce cancellation of 2018 World Diamond Congress

Training towards Quality Local Manufacturing

3 Year Warranty Roadster www.luxco.co.za | (011) 448 2210

A Passion for Quality We deal, buy and sell diamonds of all shapes and sizes including all gemstones and Tanzanite.

Address: Ground Floor, 3 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank • Contact Number: +27 78 613 9343 /+27 84 236 6000

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Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition

6-8 OCTOBER 2018 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, 161 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA

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Address: Corner Crownwood Road & Diamond Drive, Crown Mines, Johannesburg 2092 Tel: 011 374 7000 Fax: 011 374 7700 Email: Jackie.Mapiloko@debeersgroup.com Website: www.debeersgroup.com

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 9. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

• JCSA roadshows 2018 to take place during June and July • South African Mint honours Mandela’s legacy with new bronze and silver coins

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• WFDB and IDMA announce cancellation of 2018 World Diamond Congress

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• Rolex: the most trusted brand in the world

• CIBJO sets up industry-wide working committee to formulate Responsible Sourcing Guidance for gem and jewellery sectors

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

• Prestigious Patek Philippe at Baselworld • A preview of Jewellex Africa 2018 • Boutique opening in Pretoria: Seiko raises the bar

• AWDC and ALROSA sign co-operation agreement

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

• Brand Management: seen at Baselworld

• Bharat Diamond Week planning second edition in October

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

• Michel Herbelin’s Newport Chronograph in all-black version

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

• New Wenger Attitude Heritage timepieces are set to stand the tests of time

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

• Frédérique Constant’s Hybrid Manufacture

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

• TAG Heuer introduces the Carrera Heuer 02

Printing: Typo

• Breitling launches new pilot’s watch collection

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

13. WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT 2018 • Baselworld 2018: a compelling need to restructure in a recovering market • Brand History: a classic underwater wonder

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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• The story of a watch strap

32. LITTLE GEMS Versatile turquoise – then and now

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News JUNE 2018

SA

Watch & Clock Supplement 2018

Sipho Zwane

JCSA roadshows 2018 to take place during June and July

South African Mint honours Mandela’s legacy WFDB and IDMA announce cancellation of 2018 World Diamond Congress

Training towards Quality Local Manufacturing

On the cover

Pneuma Jewellers, a renowned jewellery manufacturing company situated in Midrand, Gauteng, is now offering the Trade Test for goldsmiths and diamond- and gemstone setters.

Pneuma Jewellers holds accreditation as a Skills Development Provider with the MQA and QCTO, as well as accreditation as a Trade Test Centre with NAMB under DHET and also offers value added services in skills development to the jewellery industry. For more information, contact Heidi or Faldilah on tel: (011) 702-1462/1891 or e-mail: pneumatradetest@gmail.com/ mqapneuma@gmail.com.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

NEWS

The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) has released the dates for the 2018 annual roadshows, They will take place in the following regions during June and July: • 12 June: Durban • 13 June: Port Elizabeth

• 14 June: Cape Town • 28 June: Johannesburg • 5 July: Pretoria The venues and times will be announced closer to the time. The road shows are open to all JCSA members, as well as non-members.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY EXPO 2018 TO TAKE PLACE IN JULY From 26-29 July 2018 the Singapore International Jewellery Expo (SIJE) will once again open its doors. According to show organisers, the SIHE provides an unparalleled opportunity for tapping into Asia’s fastdeveloping jewellery market and features more than 200 exhibitors from 25 countries.

“SIJE 2018 will continue to be the affluent hub to showcase fine collections of luxury gem pieces to the well-heeled in Singapore, as well as traders and high net worth buyers from China and India: the two most competitive

markets in Asia,” say show organisers.

The Singapore International Jewellery Expo is an international jewellery exhibition which takes place once a year in Singapore and is open to both professionals and private audiences. SIJE is accompanied by a number of interesting and informative activities.

JEWELLERY AND WATCH SALES RISE FOR LVMH LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton saw a rise in jewellery and watch sales in the first quarter amid strong market conditions, it said.

Revenue for the category increased 9% to US$1,18 billion in the three months ending 31 March. “Organic” sales growth, which assumes a comparable structure and constant exchange rates, was 20%.

The company noted a “buoyant environment [at] the beginning of this year, albeit marked by unfavourable exchange rates and geopolitical uncertainties”.

The jump in jewellery sales was driven a strong performance by Bulgari, as well as the launch of a new Chaumet collection. The Parisbased luxury retailer also reported a positive reception for certain watch products at the Baselworld show, which included pieces by Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith.

Group sales, including jewellery, wines and spirits, fashion and cosmetics, grew 10% to US$13,38 billion. – Rapaport

LOCAL

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JCSA ROADSHOWS 2018

*upon full payment receipt

NEWS

POSTPONEMENT OF 2018 WORLD DIAMOND CONGRESS The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and the International Diamond Manufacturers’ Association (IDMA) have announced that as a result of the weak response to registration for the 38th World Diamond Congress due to be held in Tel Aviv, Israel, from 19-21 June, no doubt also influenced by the rising tension in that region, they have decided to postpone the congress.

BHARAT DIAMOND WEEK ORGANISERS PLANNING SECOND EDITION IN CTOBER Organisers of the first Bharat Diamond Week at the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) in Mumbai, India, say the show exceeded expectations. The Bharat exchange is already planning the next edition of the fair, which it says will be even bigger and feature new elements. The first-ever Bharat Diamond Week was opened by American ConsulGeneral Edgard D Kagan in the presence of BDB President Anoop Mehta, GJEPC Chairman

The congress is the biennial gathering of the WFDB and IDMA. In a joint statement, WFDB President Ernie Blom and IDMA President Ronnie Vanderlinden said: “It’s obviously with very great regret that we’ve reached the decision to postpone the congress. We had a full agenda of issues regarding the state of the global diamond industry and preparations were in full swing.

“However, we have to take all factors into account and felt it was the correct decision to make, in the best interests of all concerned. The congress will be held at a later date, which will be determined in the near future.”

The congress was being organised by the Israel Diamond Exchange, and was due to feature a section on how technology can aid the diamond industry, among other matters.

Pramod Agarwal, MDMA President Mahendra Gandhi, Diamond Dealers Club of New York President Reuven Kaufman and Rosy Blue (India) Managing Director Russell Mehta. The Belgian Consul-General in Mumbai, Peter Huyghebaert, also visited the fair.

“This first Bharat Diamond Week more than lived up to our expectations,” says BDB Vice-President Mehul Shah, who heads the Diamond Week project. “We understood early on that there would be great interest and that turned out to be the case, with more than 1 000 visitors from India and across the world taking part. We’re planning the next show to take place from 8-9 October.

“Our aim is to help smaller and medium-

size firms by giving them a platform on which to show their goods to buyers from India and overseas. Many companies in the bourse who weren’t able to exhibit in the show marquee reported that buyers also moved around the exchange, visiting offices and doing business.”

“The Diamond Week really energised the whole Bharat Diamond Bourse,” says Mehta. “It created a lot of action and momentum. People had smiles on their faces and the event really put a spring in the step of our BDB members.

“In the next show, we’ll be implementing changes based on lessons we learnt from this one. The October show will take the Bharat Diamond Week to a whole new level.”

Importers and Distributors of Sterling Silver, Stainless Steel, Fashion Jewellery and Scarves.

NEWS

SA MINT HONOURS MANDELA’S LEGACY The SA Mint, a subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank (SARB), has announced two new coins which pay tribute to one of the most outstanding figures in South African public life and one of the key political architects of present-day SA, Nelson Mandela. 2018 marks a century since his birth and the mint has produced a coin range to commemorate this milestone.

The coins, a bronze alloy and sterling silver, honouring the global icon of hope, can be purchased from the SA Mint’s retail store in Centurion, Elegance Jewellers in Melrose Arch and various pop-up stores in malls around the country.

The bronze alloy coin tells its own tale, says Tumi Tsehlo, MD: South African Mint.

“Pricing the coin was a conscious tribute to Nelson Mandela’s legacy and our way of paying it forward. To celebrate 100 years since his birth and in remembrance of the 27 long and lonely years he spent in prison, the entry-level bronze alloy coin is priced at R127. With every coin purchased, R27 (VAT-free) will be donated to the Nelson Mandela Foundation.”

The coins portray Madiba through the years.

The R50 bronze alloy depicts him as a young lawyer and the R50 sterling silver coin as he looked after his release from jail, as the country’s first democratic President.

Nobel Laureate Mandela was a leading figure in SA’s fight against apartheid rule. The new coins are the second installation in the “Celebrating South Africa” theme, through which the mint honours symbols of SA’s freedom, democracy and culture. The first coin series in this theme was the 2017 OR Tambo Centenary range.

The two collectable coins are each packaged in alluring “coin blister” envelopes which bear endearing images of Mandela over the years.

According to the SA Mint, the purpose of the series is to educate and provide a historical perspective on SA’s struggle icons without whose efforts, bravery and self-sacrifice the fight against minority rule could not have been sustained.

“South Africans must never forget its heroes, who stood up against injustice and inequality to usher in a new era of freedom and

democracy. We hope their stories will continue to be told and heard every time someone holds a Madiba or Tambo commemorative coin,” adds Tsehlo.

“Collectability is a function of craftsmanship, quality and theme, among other personal preferences. The Mandela series no doubt ticks all the boxes and will be an amazing addition to any collection, not only because of its design, but also because of the enduring value of the theme.

“We’ll soon be announcing new products in the Mandela Centenary range that will far exceed the expectations of both numismatists and aficionados.”

CIBJO COMMITTEE TO FORMULATE RESPONSIBLE SOURCING GUIDELINE FOR GEM AND JEWELLERY SECTORS CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has announced the establishment of an industry-wide working committee which will be charged with formulating Responsible Sourcing Guidelines specifically for the jewellery, gem and precious metals sectors. The new body was created by a decision of the CIBJO board of directors in March 2018, following board approval of a draft Responsible Sourcing Guidelines document.

The guidelines, which – when ratified – will have the status of a CIBJO Blue Book, are intended to provide a general framework for responsible sourcing practices, serving as a roadmap for all industry participants. The guidelines will be voluntary recommendations for members of the sector, and will not constitute a standard or compliance mechanism

by CIBJO. This means that members of the industry who would like certification or any other formal recognition of their implementation of responsible sourcing policies will need to do so through an internationally recognised standards organisation, such as the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).

The proposed CIBJO Responsible Sourcing Guidance will follow the Organisation for Economic Co-operation & Development's Due

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, and also supports the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights.

The Responsible Sourcing Committee, which is chaired by CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, includes senior CIBJO officials from various industry sectors, as well as representatives of other industry organisations, including the RJC, with which CIBJO has a Memorandum of Understanding. The core guidance document, which was approved by the CIBJO board in March 2018, was prepared by Philip Olden, a former Managing Director at the World Gold Council, who is an expert on responsible sourcing strategies in the precious metals and jewellery sector and consults with major industry bodies in formulating their own responsible sourcing policies.

“Our objective is to formulate harmonised industry guidance regarding what constitutes responsible sourcing and how it should be approached,” says Cavalieri. “Because we work in a business in which the supply chain almost always comprises multiple players, it’s essential that we operate according to the same principles. Moreover, we strongly believe that

all participants in the industry, small and large, should be able to demonstrate the integrity in their supply chain to the best of their ability, and the element of inclusiveness will lie at the heart of this document.”

“We’re pleased to support this important project,” says Andrew Bone, Executive Director of the RJC. “Responsible sourcing is something that’s already undertaken by many jewellery companies and the CIBJO Guidelines will outline the management processes for doing so in a consistent way. We’re committed to working with CIBJO in promoting good practices to all members of the industry and will provide the means for companies to certify and assure their responsible sourcing practices through the RJC Code of Practices.”

When the Responsible Sourcing Committee completes the drafting of the Responsible Sourcing Guidelines document, it will be made available for both peer and public review. The final draft will be submitted for ratification as an official Blue Book at the 2018 CIBJO Congress later this year, where it is envisaged that the working committee will be transformed into a CIBJO Commission, which will be charged with reviewing and updating the document on a regular basis.

11

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

DIAMOND DEALERS

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(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

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Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

supplement

twentyeighteen

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Restructuring in a recovering market The annual Baselworld Show opened on 22 March. This 101st Baselworld edition is still setting the pace as the heart of the industry – the showcase of major global brands and the luxury Swiss watchmaking industry. Martin Foster reviews the 2018 event.

(Above): The strong growth of watch industry exports reported since March 2017 was confirmed. Exports value reached CHF1,7 billion, an increase of 12,9% on the February 2017 figure. These numbers reflect a significant turnaround.

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BASELWORLD PROVIDES THE ONLY REAL opportunity to see the finest of Swiss production side-by-side with the quality and volume production from Europe, China and the rest of the world.

But in the past five years, the luxury sector of the Swiss industry has been caught in a storm of unstable demand, misjudged oversupply, demographic change and ever greater separation of the “haves” and “have-nots”. The rapidly changing market caught the industry off balance – the wholesale pipeline was full, the retailers fully committed and all production and sales targets in turmoil.

This was reflected at the opening press conference held on the morning of 21 March in Basel, when the show’s Managing Director, Sylvie Ritter, said the watch industry was in a period of “change and unprecedented concentration” in which the strongest players are getting stronger and smaller brands are being challenged.

It was the lesser-order players who deserted the show this year – but this should come as no surprise, as they are in the medium/lower-price sector which is under challenge of price-point/ function from Apple Watch and all the smartwatch derivatives. Their profit margins have been severely shaved following an invasion of sheer market volume similar to the introduction of quartz technologies in the 1970s.

However, an alternative view was presented

by François Thiébaud, President of the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee, who attributed the Swiss watch industry’s recent difficulties not to competition from smartwatches or lack of relevancy to younger buyers, but to the Swiss National Bank’s decision in January 2015 to abolish its cap on the Swiss franc. Swatch Group chief Nick Hayek called the bank’s move a “tsunami” for Swiss exporters, but the Swiss franc has since declined in value, giving some relief to exporters.

Whatever the cause, the number of exhibitors at the 2018 show was down by half, from 1 300 to about 650 and, given the circum-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: INTERNATIONAL FAIR

The good news for the show administration is that all the major luxury watch brands were present this year and all have committed to next year.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

stances, this was probably predictable. After all, when profit margins are so squeezed, the cost/benefit ratio of exhibiting may no longer stack up. On the back of diminished returns, many smaller brands felt unable to justify the relentlessly high cost of exhibiting at Baselworld and the show has done little to ease the cost burden. Over 110 000 constructors, exhibitors, buyers, visitors and journalists visit Basel during the show and feel caught by the finely honed culture at the event of personal and corporate wallet-gouging.

Baselworld exhibits the two related luxury industries of watches and jewellery. Unfortunately, the comparative division of exhibitor absence between these two is not available. This might have provided a further insight into what is going on.

The tools hall of some hundreds of exhibitors decamped en masse a year or two ago to various specialised fairs, including a precision tools exhibition, EPHJ-EPMT-SMT, in Geneva.

This presents annually in June, when buyers are focused on the promotion of a single-purpose exhibition and the upfront exhibitor costs are less. Exhibitor interviews at Baselworld suggest that the MCH show administration neglected to sufficiently promote the specialties within the event and the huge loss of the tools exhibitors may well have been symptomatic.

With Baselworld now safely behind us, we can review it with the clarity of hindsight.

Dark prognostications for the industry will be moderated by the better experience and facts which are now emerging. The winnowing of exhibitors produced a tighter and more manageable show and this 101st edition did open amidst an upswing in Swiss watch exports after two negative years.

The good news for the show administration is that all the major luxury watch brands were present this year and all have committed to next year.

Rolex’s CEO, Jean-Frédéric Dufour, declares: “This annual event remains a ‘must’ for the Swiss watch industry, thanks to its evolution and its dynamism, which was proven by the strong participation and avid enthusiasm.

We’re looking forward to Baselworld 2019.”

Patek Philippe’s President Thierry Stern agrees. “We’re very satisfied with the positive feedback that our new products for 2018 received from our partners in the specialised trade and from the press,” he says.

It is true that reviews such as this concentrate on the major houses, as they are the technical and cultural industry leaders and therefore set the agenda. Over many years, it is from among these makers that durable, long-term technical developments emerge. Nevertheless, this may not be enough to hold the current market position.

In a world beset by political cold war posturing, corruption and mistrust, the coming years may produce another round of caution by cashed-up buyers bypassing luxury timepieces.

It was against this background that Forbes magazine reported that Rolex was again this year voted as the most trusted company in the world, ahead of Lego (and both might be seen as providing toys for boys!). The survey result is based on performance, leadership, products, services and innovation and it is an honour indeed to lead in this category at a time when trust is in such universally short supply.

Much current insecurity may stabilise over the next year. However, René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, says: “Today, nothing is certain.

We’ll try to keep this industry event in Basel, but I can’t provide guarantees.” Kamm could give one assurance, however: “Baselworld will take place at the Rhine next year.” Nobody knows what will happen in 2020.

Some Baselworld brand reviews are to be found in this issue and more will be published in the coming months.

Baselworld will re-open its doors on 21 March 2019.

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND HISTORY

TUDOR WATCHES WERE BORN IN 1926 IN THE mind of Hans Wilsdorf, the creator of Rolex.

He had long been considering producing a watch that would sell at a more modest price than Rolex, but would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex was renowned – those of quality, functionality and dependability, but at a more accessible price. This concept of “accessible luxury” is now used frequently.

Originally the watch did not have a strong sporting orientation, nor was it a dress watch.

The first version of the Submariner, Rolex’s iconic watch, was released in 1953 and from 1954 there would always be a Tudor Oyster Submariner in this brand’s collection as a performing dive watch. It returned after a break of 13 years in a 2012 version in the Heritage Black Bay collection, which was a worthy successor to the legendary Submariners.

This was realised, mainly with movements from ETA, unlike those of Rolex; the Tudor Submariner soon established itself as a strong professional instrument. The first generation of this returned as a great inspiration for the development of the current Black Bay, which was conceived as an ideal diver’s watch and focuses mainly on the criteria of durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness at a moderate price.

This watch in fact resembles the Rolex case, as does the crown of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner 7922. Nevertheless, this Tudor timepiece was the first of its kind, as it followed early attempts at waterproofness.

The brand amassed a cult following due to its heritage and in 2012, possibly because of the attention to detail of the Heritage Black Bay. Inspiration derived from vintage models has been a major trend for the past decade, used as a reference to create new models. Tudor’s heritage design appears to have handled

A classic underwater wonder A Swiss watch brand whose sterling quality commands an extremely high price has its origins dating back to its relationship with Rolex, as it is from the same stable and reflects the same philosophy. Among its collections is one named Black Bay, chosen by bold adventurers on land, under water and on ice.

this successfully and the vintage Submariners undoubtedly influenced the newer models, a fact the brand does not deny, as elements of iconic models are apparent in the current versions displayed at Baselworld last year.

The first in-house version of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay was presented at Baselworld 2017 and was available in an all-steel version, with the bezel insert in brushed steel, as well as in yellow gold. It also introduced the date function. The second generation has an in-house-manufactured movement, but any novelties are linked to its past heritage – such as the riveted bracelet used in the 1950s and early 1960s.

Not content with resting on past laurels, however, the brand presented its diver’s watch with a new GMT function – without losing sight of local time – in two other time zones. It has a distinctive burgundy and blue bezel. The 41 mm stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished, the movement a self-winding system

and the screw-down crown decorated with the distinctive Tudor rose. The domed dial is black, protected by a domed sapphire crystal.

This timepiece has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and is mounted on a polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet. The watch is water-resistant to 200 m.

The current Black Bay was conceived as an ideal dive watch and focuses mainly on the criteria of durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness at a moderate price.

16

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

GOLDSMITH AND SHOP ASSISTANT POSITIONS AVAILABLE The Goldsmith must be highly skilled with many years of experience and preferably be able to set stones.

The Shop Assistant position includes the following: Basic Computer skills with knowledge of excel and word,general floor sales and quoting, taking in repairs, website updates, window dressing and stocktake. Design experience would be an advantage. Must be prepared to work every alternate weekend with days off to compensate. Public Holidays and Sundays will be paid overtime.

Excellent renumeration offered for highly skilled, competent applicant.

Interested candidates please email CV to: brett@brettlandpoulsen.co.za

Advertise with the widest-reaching media platform in the industry ADVERTISING THAT WORKS! Place your banner on Jewellery Biz-News to get your message across. Banners can be linked to your website or an e-mail address. A half size banner advertisement costs R735, while a full size banner costs just R930 per insertion.

TO SUBSCRIBE: Email subscriptions@isikhova.co.za and put “Subscribe Biz-News� in the subject line.

TO ADVERTISE: Contact Ian on adsales@isikhova.co.za or Trivern on sales@isikhova.co.za.

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND HISTORY

Portrait of a watch strap maker AN ENTIRELY MADE IN ITALY HISTORY THAT began almost a century ago when Giulio Morellato, at the end of the First World War, began an entrepreneurial adventure opening a shop of jewellery timepieces with his brother.

Later, Giulio’s focus moved towards producing and selling leather watch straps, revolutionising the business precisely when the use of wristwatches began to become common place.

No one could have imagined that this business, run in the laboratory and in a few neighbouring houses, would quickly grow to become an important Italian watch and jewellery group.

When Giulio Morellato died, I Volpato and S Carraro, took over the company’s management, bringing success to the Morellato group that continues to grow today. “The company carries on its tradition without losing sight of modernity, keeping the brand’s values alive and vivid: vision, innovation and quality, which have always been the essential characteristics of a good Made in Italy product,” says the brand.

Morellato works exclusively with raw materials, both in terms of exotic reptile skins such as the alligator mississippiensis, the best quality alligator skin on the market and of leathers, all of Italian origin, particularly from Tuscany. Additionally, all leathers used are tanned in accordance with the legislation in force regarding the use of chemicals.

The Morellato Group, with registered offices in Padua and Milan, is one of the most successful Italian companies in the field of watch straps, jewellery and watches. Thanks to an artisan tradition handed down from 1930, strengthened by constant investments in new materials, innovations and fashion trends, Morellato is today the leader in the manufacturing of Made in Italy watch straps.

Morellato’s highly qualified artisans manage every step of the productive process by observing a very strict quality control. All products, in fact, are tested in its in-house laboratory where inspections are conducted on the raw materials and, then, on each manufacturing phase to offer the warranty of the product’s total compliance.

Morellato offers a wide and diversified range of products, from the Pelli Preziose watch straps, made of precious crocodile, alligator and lizard skins, to the Sport Collection, which utilises technical, innovative and water-resistant materials. The Manufatti Collection is the ultimate expression of the artisan expertise while the brand also boasts more technical lines like the Rubber Collection as well as its latest creation, the Green Collection.

Morellato’s assortment is characterised by more than 1 300 articles, over 50 colour variations and more than 45 different types of leathers.

In 1999, Morellato launched a successful jewellery line with the concept “Morellato.

Jewels to be lived”. The use of materials chosen through strict research and selection processes, the exclusive Italian design originating in 1930 at the Morellato laboratories in the Venice area, as well as patient artisan craft, are the winning keys of the brand, which satisfy the evolving needs of consumers and which have led the company over a short period of time to become a leader in watch straps and fashion jewellery.

“The secret to Morellato’s success, therefore, lies in its new interpretation of luxury, which is no longer a form of ostentation and extravagance. It is an ‘emotional’ fact relating to psychic influences and all that in some way belongs to this: ‘communication of what is beautiful and precious, a dream that can be achieved by purchasing a product’,” says the company.

Quality, from generation to generation, has always been one of the most important historical values of the brand. Morellato is today the result of the intelligence and perseverance of those who have put their hearts and souls into the company, creating a culture of team work, transparency and conviviality.

Later, Giulio’s focus moved towards producing and selling leather watch straps, revolutionising the business precisely when the use of wristwatches began to become common place.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND REVIEW

IN 1908 WILSDORF REGISTERED “ROLEX” AS his brand and, from the outset, concentrated on the quality of the movements. Wilsdorf’s unrelenting quest for precision rapidly led to success and in 1910, a Rolex was the first wristwatch in the world to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne.

In 1919 Rolex moved its base of operations to Geneva and, over the next century, relentlessly pursued excellence and became the iconic company we all know so well.

In 2018, for the second consecutive year, Rolex topped the list of the most reputable companies on the planet. “The Swiss watchmaker’s retention of the top position comes on the back of strong scores in various categories, but most remarkably in the perception of its performance, products and services,” wrote Forbes magazine in February.

Today the Rolex Daytona is the most highly sought-after watch by collectors and there is often a waiting list for the purchase of new models. Expect to pay about £9 100 for a new one and from about £8 000 for a pre-owned one.

It got its name from the “24 Hours of Daytona”, now currently known as the “Rolex 24” – a 24-hour sports car endurance race held annually at Daytona International Speedway in Daytona Beach, Florida.

On 26 October 2017, legendary actor Paul Newman’s Rolex Cosmograph Daytona became the most expensive watch ever sold on auction, going for £12,7 million to an anonymous phone bidder. It was certainly a unique piece.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

The most trusted brand in the world The history of Rolex is inextricably linked to the creative spirit of Hans Wilsdorf, its founder. In 1905, at the age of 24, Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis founded a company in London specialising in the distribution of timepieces. Martin Foster reviews the spectacular gem-set version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which was introduced at this year’s Baselworld.

At Baselworld this year, Rolex introduced a spectacular gem-set version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. On this new 18ct Everose gold version, in lieu of the tachymetric scale, the bezel is set with a gradation of sapphires in rainbow hues. The case features 56 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the lugs and crown guard, while the dial features 11 baguette-cut sapphire hourmarkers, each of which matches the colour of the corresponding point on the bezel. The chronograph counters are in pink gold crystals, a material with a particular shimmer effect, created during the crystallisation of a pink gold alloy by means of a process developed by Rolex.

Today the Rolex Daytona range uses the Rolex Cal 4130, designed and made in-house.

This is a column-wheel chronograph automatic with a bi-directional rotor providing a power

reserve of 72 hours, 44 jewels, 201 parts, a Paraflex shock system and a Parachrom Blue hairspring on a four-arm beryllium balance with 28 800 vibrations per hour. It has a tri-compax chronograph dial featuring hours, minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter.

When setting the time, a hacking mechanism also allows synchronisation of the time accurate to the second.

Buyers will be hard-pressed to find the Rainbow Daytona, as production is limited for a host of reasons related to stone-matching and the exceedingly time-consuming work of setting the case and dial. If you do manage to locate one, expect to pay about £65 000-R70 000 for it.

(Above): The Rolex Rainbow Cosmograph Daytona has hourmarker stones picking up the colours of the bezel-set stones.

The overall effect, together with the rose gold of the dial and case, is remarkable.

(Left): The Rolex Cal 4130 was developed in-house for the Daytona series, which previously utilised a Zenith el Primera movement.

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND REVIEW

Prestigious Patek Philippe at Baselworld Patek Philippe is the last remaining family-owned, independent Geneva watch manufacturer. Today it still staunchly observes the principles established by its founders, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe, in 1851. Martin Foster had a closer look at the brand’s superb new Ref 5531R World Time Minute Repeater at this year’s Baselworld.

THE BRAND’S STATED VALUES, WHICH HAVE underpinned the outstanding reputation of the company, are independence, tradition, innovation, craftsmanship, rarity, value, aesthetics, service, emotion and legacy. Patek Philippe has always striven for perfection by creating timepieces of unrivalled quality and reliability.

Patek is considered by collectors and aficionados to be one of the most prestigious watch manufacturers.

In the hands of the Stern family since 1932, this private company is managed today by a board of directors. During his years as President, Philippe Stern marked the history of the company with significant building, including the creation of the Patek Philippe Museum, and with the launch of exceptional super-complication timepieces such as the Calibre 89.

Like other Swiss manufacturers, the company produces mostly mechanical movements, but has also produced quartz watches. It even produced a prototype for a mechanical digital wristwatch, Ref 3414, in 1954.

Patek was notable, too, for being one of 20 Swiss watch companies to develop the first Swiss production Beta 21 Electroquartz movement used by other manufacturers such as Omega in 1969.

Patek Philippe manufactures all its own watch components.

Watches in the collector’s realm fetch eye-watering prices. The Henry Graves Super complication was made in 1933 for prominent banker Henry Graves, Jr. This ultra-complicated pocketwatch (24 functions) was the result of Graves’s friendly horological competition with James Ward Packard. After Graves’s death, the watch was auctioned at Sotheby’s in 1999 and went for US$11 million to Sheikh Saud Bin Mohammed Bin Ali Al-Thani of the Qatari royal family. At that time, it was the most expensive

22

timepiece ever sold. The watch subsequently sold at a Sotheby’s Geneva auction in 2014 for a record-breaking US$24 million.

At Baselworld 2018, Patek exhibited its superb new Ref 5531R World Time Minute Repeater. These functions are not new to the manufacturer, which has been making them for decades. They have developed exceptional acoustic quality and encompass a broad range of models and variations with interesting combinations and complications. Patek Philippe’s World Time watches with cloisonné-enamelled dials rank among the most coveted timepieces at auctions.

In the Ref 5531R World Time Minute Repeater, the time is always struck as indicated by the hour and minute hands for the time zone, meaning the striking is co-ordinated with the world time complication.

Details of this spectacular piece are as follows: minute repeater with classic gongs; local time strike; world time; 24-hour and day/ night indication for the 24 time zones. 32 mm diameter; 8,5 mm height; 462 parts; 45 jewels; 43- to 48-hour power reserve; 22ct gold mini-rotor; unidirectional winding. Balance: four-arm Gyromax® with maselots. 21 600 (3 Hz). Balance spring: Spiromax®. Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal.

This is a very limited production and hopeful buyers can expect to pay £370 000.

(Left, from top): On the side of the Patek World Time Minute repeater is the winding slide, which winds the repeat mechanism and pre-loads the repeater operation according to the chosen time zone. It will not operate unless the slide is wound to the full extent possible; the full majesty of this very beautiful Patek Philippe World Time Minute repeater. The city disc is of German silver, the 24-hour disc of rose gold and the centre section in cloisonné enamel decoration showing vineyards above Lake Geneva; movement Cal C 27 HU through the caseback. The gold Patek Calatrava cross acts as an upper bridge for the fly governor which controls the speed of the strike. The strike hammers can be seen on the right.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: JEWELLEX AFRICA

Jewellex Africa 2018 Committee Chairman Rowan Jacobson believes that this year’s show is likely to be even more successful than the previous one. The current committee is confident that exhibitors will continue to act as the window of the industry through an input of new ideas.

A preview of Jewellex Africa 2018 ONE OF THE CHANGES THAT THE 2018 Jewellex Committee has introduced as an improvement for this year’s event is the implementation in the area of social media to ensure more regular communication with both retailers and visitors.

“We’re pleased to announce that there’s been more space sold and more interest shown by businesses not only within our industry, but also from the greater business community,” comments Jacobson. “Jewellex provides an opportunity to present something unique that can’t be shown at store level. For example, a physical presentation at point of sale and promotional material can be observed by the retailer at the actual show and can give an item of humble format more prestige.”

Over the past several years and as a result of technological advancements, for example, the Internet, e-mails and the social media business globally have relegated trade exhibitions to the point where they are viewed as less important in the business relationship. Exhibitions offer participation, which requires the human interaction that is still crucial in business.

Jewellex provides a meeting point outside

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

the store environment. Distributors and suppliers –especially from a senior executive perspective – have the opportunity to meet retailers, without an agenda, who come from far afield. The show provides face-to-face engagement and an opportunity to catch up.

One of the significant developments in 2018 is re-introducing Saturday as the first day of the show, followed by Sunday and Monday. The committee believes that the choice of these days is more suitable and gives out-of-town retailers more time to attend the event.

For the second year, Jewellex is offering a R100 000 prize to a retailer, with the proviso that the money is spent at any Jewellex exhibitor of their choice. In order to qualify, retailers who are business-owners or directors need simply produce and hand in their business card.

The committee has also been hard at work

arranging seminars that visitors will find informative and valuable for their businesses.

Records show that attendances at the seminars have increased year-on-year.

The diamond pavilion will be relocated closer to the entrance of Jewellex; the size of the area of Jewellex will also be enlarged and have more participants.

For the first time, the show will include a wine and champagne bar which has been sponsored by Cape Precious Metals.

Other sponsors for this year’s show are Brinks, which will sponsor the lanyards, Metal Concentrators (which is sponsoring the Metcon Coffee Shop), BYL Diamonds (sponsoring the registration) and Cape Precious Metals for the wine and champagne bar.

Jewellex Africa 2018 will take place from 6-8 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.

The Jewellex Committee will make every effort to encourage attendance of retailers across the country. In addition, the buyers of chain stores will be approached to support their local industry.

Jewellex will once again host a cocktail function in the ballroom of the Michelangelo Hotel, at no cost to visitors or exhibitors. Details of this function (sponsored by Cape Precious Metals) have yet to be confirmed.

23

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BOUTIQUE OPENING IN PRETORIA

THIS FOLLOWS ON THE HEELS OF THE LONDON experience, which has exceeded all expectations, says Robert Wilson, Executive Marketing Consultant for Seiko UK, under which banner SA falls. According to Wilson, this number will increase to 100 before long.

The demand for timepieces at the higher end has increased, reports Wilson – both around the world and in Africa. With the development of technology (at which Seiko excels) and the availability of broader functions, the high-end market is buoyant. This has led to Seiko moving “upmarket”. No longer is it seen by the general public as the chainstore brand it once was. The concept has changed. It is a new world for Seiko.

The location of the boutique in Pretoria was selected for a number of reasons. Not only is it the capital city of our country, but the centre where it has been placed – Woodlands – was viewed as compatible with the brand’s new image, in which Grand Seiko has played a leading role. Woodlands has an existing select clientele, an attractive environment and the centre is proactive in ensuring security.

The launch of the boutique was hosted by the local distributors, Treger Brands, and it remained open for the public to view for the rest of the day.

The Grand Seiko collection was displayed at the recent Baselworld show in Switzerland and included the Hi-Beat 36000 VPA at a new level of precision. It has one of three special movements and is in a new case to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical calibre. (The very first Grand Seiko was launched in 1960, the former in 1998, which

Seiko raises the bar The opening of a Seiko boutique is a “first” for the South African watch industry. It was “a happening”, a new venture for the Japanese brand in this market, but not for the rest of the world, where some 80 boutiques have been established.

24

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BOUTIQUE OPENING IN PRETORIA

was considered the most important historical event.) The 9S calibre was entirely new and designed from scratch to deliver the high precision and durability for which Seiko was renowned. Since then, it has been continuously enhanced and is considered a landmark which has earned a reputation as one of the world’s finest calibres. This is part of a limited edition in a platinum case, as well as in gold and steel.

Yet another new release is the Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT. It refers to both the past and the future – the case and the bracelet are crafted from very light blue ceramic, which is seven times harder than stainless steel and impervious to scratches. Titanium and tungsten are combined in the oscillating weight to resist distortion, even when the watch is exposed to shock. The titanium section has been treated with an anodic oxidation process, which creates a new vivid blue that complements the Grand Seiko blue of the ceramic and the dial. It is limited to 350 pieces.

Six new variations of diver’s watches from the Prospex collection mark the brand’s practice of constantly pushing back the boundaries for this technology. Seiko’s first diver’s watches raised the bar in 1965 and two of them were honoured in 1968 in the Prospex collection with a 300 m resistance. They proved to be the foundation of the future diver’s watch by the brand and had a one-piece case structure with screw-down crown, a unidirectional rotating bezel and a flat back.

A particular type of enamel named Shippo has been used in a limited edition with a feature that was developed in Japan in the 17th century. Unlike porcelain enamel, Shippo is polished after firing. This is particularly challenging in a watch dial no more than 1 mm high.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

The location of the boutique in Pretoria was selected for a number of reasons. Not only is it the capital city of our country, but the centre where it has been placed – Woodlands – was viewed as compatible with the brand’s new image, in which Grand Seiko has played a leading role.

The Shippo Presage dial is painted on the dial surface of the watch by hand using a lead-free glaze made especially for these timepieces, which have a power reserve of 50 hours.

Some of these exceptional watches will be

available at the boutique, along with classic Seiko designs. Of wider appeal, perhaps, is the launch of a new women’s design in an automatic calibre presented in a Grand Seiko limited edition of 50. This is in response to a worldwide request for an expanded women’s range. The beautiful and very feminine watch is a combination of a slim profile and a high level of performance. Its height of 4,49 mm permits the 18ct rose gold case, set with 0,88ct (numbering 37) white diamonds on the bezel, to fit every wrist. Its diameter is 19,4 mm and the dial has a delicate pattern representing the landscape of northern Japan; the crown is set with one large diamond. The curved sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating and a see-through screw case-back.

The watch has an accuracy of +8 to -3 seconds per day (when static) and there are 33 jewels in the movement, which has 28 600 vibrations per hour. This timepiece is anti-magnetic and is water-resistant to 10 bars. Like all Grand Seiko models, it is made and assembled by hand.

25

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND MANAGEMENT

NEW WENGER ATTITUDE HERITAGE TIMEPIECES Wenger Swiss Made watches are the perfect companion for those with sophisticated demands: practical, highly functional and reliable. Whether with an urban look or popular vintage style, sporty or classically elegant, every design reflects visible and tangible attention to the smallest detail.

Proudly integrating the new watch head, to celebrate its debut, are the latest additions to the Attitude family. In all of these, the slender, ergonomic case, with vertical brushing, sits comfortably on the wrist. Long lugs that stand resolutely to attention frame a perfect circle. The new Attitude Day & Date Heritage pieces give urban cool a touch of nostalgia. They are reliable companions on trips both downtown and out of town, kept on track by their precise timekeeping ability, luminescent dial detail and easy-toread day and date.

The new Attitude Heritage collection is designed in 42 mm diameter round, vertically brushed stainless steel cases and is water-resistant to 100 m. The watches feature a Ronda 517 3H Day Date movement.

All Wenger watches are covered by a threeyear international warranty. Timepieces are available with a grey nylon strap, a black leather strap or metal bracelet.

Founded in 1893 in Courtételle, a village near Delémont in the Jura canton of western Switzerland, Wenger has a history dotted with significant milestones. Building on its distinctive DNA composed of versatility and competence, the brand is now ready to write a new chapter with its intrinsic values of quality and reliability on both watches and travel gear. The extreme attention to every detail and regard for customers are the keynotes of the brand.

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT’S HYBRID MANUFACTURE The Hybrid Manufacture combines Swissmade fine mechanical watchmaking with smartwatch functionality in a single timepiece. The movement is manufactured and the electronic parts are also in-house-developed, produced and assembled. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date, as well as activity tracking, sleep monitoring, battery life indicator, world timer and dynamic coach.

In order to overcome the negative magnetic effects between the two technologies integrated into one case, Frédérique Constant developed and patented a unique antimagnetic shield case within the case. The movement also features calibre analytics, which measures the rate, amplitude and beat error of the mechanical calibre.

The watch comes in a box that also serves as a rotator and charger, powering two technologies at once. It can also be charged outside the box with a USB cable.

Its 42 mm polished stainless steel or rose gold-plated case features convex sapphire crystal and a see-through case-back and is water-resistant to 50 m.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

Based in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva, Switzerland, the company is involved in all stages of watch production, from initial design to final assembly and quality control.

Frédérique Constant develops, manufactures and assembles in-house calibres, with 21 different versions since 2004.

In 2015 Frédérique Constant introduced the first Swiss-made Horological Smartwatch, powered by MMT SwissConnect and entirely displayed with an analogue dial, thereby creating an entirely new watch category in the Swiss watch industry. Frédérique Constant watches are defined by their high quality, differentiation and precision in design and manufacturing. Their perceived value is a key component of their success.

Each watch is assembled by hand, with the latest equipment and extensive controls, to ensure maximum quality and durability. The company embraces innovation to offer creativity and exceptional value. Its 2 973 m² facility in Geneva is ultra-modern and offers the best environment for its passionate watchmakers.

27

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WATCH & CLOCK SUPPLEMENT: BRAND MANAGEMENT

BREITLING LAUNCHES NEW PILOT’S WATCH COLLECTION MICHEL HERBELIN’S NEWPORT CHRONOGRAPH IN ALL-BLACK VERSION After updating the design last year, Michel Herbelin has released its Newport Chronograph in an all-black version. The decidedly sporty watch packs a robust punch with standout features that make it a choice timepiece for the distinguished gentleman Its 316L stainless steel case with black PVD coating is 42,5 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 100 m. Functions include hours, minutes, second, date, chronograph and tachymeter and its strap is of black leather treated with rubber effect. It features a Swiss quartz chronograph Ronda (12 1Ž2 Ronda 5040 B) movement.

Created in 1988, the iconic Newport watch is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

Michel Herbelin has become the leader in France in its market segment. One in four watches sold in the same price bracket is a Michel Herbelin. It is an international brand, with two-thirds of production sold in approximately 50 countries worldwide.

TAG HEUER INTRODUCES THE CARRERA HEUER 02 A cornerstone of the brand since 1963, the legendary Heuer Carrera takes a sharp turn to mark its 55th spring.

This avant-garde chronograph, forever associated with motor racing, wears its DNA with sporting pride. The new Heuer 02 Calibre manufacture movement features a 43 mm modular case, a tachymeter bezel and a skeleton dial with 3-6-9 counters.

This flagship model is powered by a stateof-the-art engine.

An authentic living legend, this collection now welcomes its latest addition – the new TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02, available in 13

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

Breitling, famous for its chronographs and strong link to aviation, has just launched a new pilot’s watch collection: the Navitimer 8.

The 8 in its name is a nod to the Huit Aviation Department, which was set up in 1938 to produce cockpit instruments, as well as classic pilot’s watches for civilian and military use. At the time, Willy Breitling chose the name “Huit” (the French word for “eight”) as a reference to the eight-day power reserve offered by its storied cockpit instruments. As a highlight of its new watch line, the Navitimer 8 B01 is presented in stainless steel as well as in 18ct red gold, each with the exclusive Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01. With those two versions, the manufactory meets all the demands of discerning watch-bearers.

The Navitimer 8 features a Breitling Man-ufacture Calibre 01 movement with a dual-acting ball-bearing rotor, 346 components, 28 800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a COSC-certified chronometer and a 70-hour power reserve.

It’s case is 43 mm in diameter and 13,97 mm in height with double anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a screwed case-back with sapphire glass, a screw-locked crown and a bidirectional bezel with pointer. It is water-resistant to 100 m.

contemporary variants in steel, carbon, ceramic or gold with a metal, rubber, leather or ceramic bracelet, plus a 45 mm version with GMT function. It is modern, reliable and accurate.

With Jean-Claude Biver, TAG Heuer CEO and President of the LVMH Watch Division at the helm, the new models – including the TAG Heuer Connected watch – reveal a new dynamic in terms of both the performance touch and a completely transformed environment: TAG Heuer is currently the only watch brand able to communicate in the four different spheres of art, lifestyle, sport and heritage.

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SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa. Published monthly, this publication brings you scintillating news on current international and local affairs.

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LITTLE GEMS

Versatile turquoise – then and now The pastel stones of turquoise are extremely decorative, which is why these gemstones have been prized for thousands of years. They were used in jewellery in ancient Egypt from 3000 BC and, more recently, adorned the tops of domed buildings around the Middle East. The Aztecs combined turquoise with gold, quartz, malachite, jade, coral and shells in ceremonial mosaic objects such as masks, knives and shields, writes Alice Weil.

THE WORD “TURquoise” literally means “Turkish stone”, since the trade route which brought it to Europe used to come via Turkey, but the major deposits in Sinai, Egypt, were already depleted by 4000 BC. Predominating colour tones are sky-blue (the most popular one in the Victorian era), which comes from the copper content, blue-green and apple green from the iron content, as well as white. But a pure blue colour is rare; most turquoise is interspersed with brown, dark grey and black veins of other minerals or from the host rock. It is an opaque mineral which can also be translucent, or have a waxy lustre or be matte. It comes in grape-like clusters or nodules.

Interestingly, it can be used as pavé in jewels. Legendary 19th-century actress Sarah Bernhardt, in her portrayal of Cleopatra, wore jewellery in shimmering silver with turquoisestudded segments because of its association with ancient Egypt, where it was the first gemstone to be imitated in a structure created by an artificial glazed ceramic – the product known as faience, which is a form of turquoise.

In ancient Persia, the strong-blue gems were worn around the neck or wrist as a protection against death. In that civilisation, it was

32

the de facto national stone for millennia, used extensively to decorate personal objects from turbans to bridal regalia, mosques and other important buildings, both inside and out. The Persian style and use of turquoise were later brought to India, following the establishment of the Mughal Empire, its influence seen in high-quality gold jewels together with ruby and diamond, as well as in buildings such as the Taj Mahal. Persian turquoises were often engraved with devotional words in Arabic script.

But even the finest turquoise can be very fracturable, more so than window glass.

It is a crystal system of great porosity. It was one of the first gems to be mined and a few historic sites are still worked in small-scale seasonal operations.

a shrine was a decorative feature of a vanity case – an accessory very popular among ladies of that era – while turquoise itself was used in combination with gold and mother-of-pearl in another such case that same year.

Two tiers of graduated turquoise motifs in the form of carved palm leaves were the focal point of a head ornament resting on a base of diamonds – another distinctive jewel from Cartier.

Its use in ornamental objects is seen in the Van Cleef & Arpels design of a hardstone clock circa 1929 in the form of a carved turquoise Chinese scent bottle, of which the time aspect formed part of the stopper. It also had three turquoise feet.

Turquoise is a favourite stone in native American jewellery such as Mexican Aztec, generally in cabochon form.

It is particularly popular for bracelets and necklaces, which appeal to the tourist trade.

It is sometimes confused with amazonite.

Because it is porous, it is often sealed with artificial resin which hardens the surface, while the colour can be improved with oil or paraffin, as well as other chemicals.

Current-day designs tend to present turquoise in combination with silver. Fashion jewellery has seen the emergence of simulated turquoise, of which good qualities have been available on the market since about 1920. This version, known as neo-turquoise, includes well-done imitations complete with a dark matrix, while imitation turquoise of a good colour is called Vienna turquoise.

Modern times In around 1910, Cartier developed jewellery designs based on Egyptian motifs, a decade before the discovery of Tutenkhamen’s tomb, which became known by the brand as “the Egyptian style”. It was quite a challenge to create a contemporary jewel based on an ancient piece. Glazed faience fragments were used for this in a form of scarab brooch of 1924, as well as on a winged scarab, a horsehead brooch and a beaded collar. A figure in

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JUNE 2018

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